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Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Gable Roof Shed Building Plans – 21 Sizes By CheapSheds.com Table Of Contents Videos Getting Started Step 1: Foundation Step 2: Floor Step 3: Trusses Step 4: Frame Walls Step 5: Frame Door Step 6: Raise Walls Step 7: Finish Door Step 8: Frame Roof Step 9: Trim Step 10: Shingle Roof Maintenance How To Contact Me Table 1: Materials list and cost estimate worksheet Table 2: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed Table 3: Number of pieces to cut Figure 1: Detailed view of framing Figure 2: Floor dimensions and layout Figure 3: Simple jig, truss components Figure 4a: Gable end wall layout showing stud spacing and bottom siding overhang Figure 4b: Front cross section showing 14 degree angle on sidewall studs Figure 4c: sidewall stud spacer detail Figure 4d: Sidewall layout showing stud spacing and siding overhang Figure 5a: Outer door frame including sandwiched header Figure 5b: Inner door frame Figure 5c: Nailing sequence Figure 5d: Chalk lines Figure 5e: Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer door trim Figure 6: Wall dimensions and layout Figure 7: First router cut Figure 8: Sidewall cross section with truss layout Figure 8a: Sidewall cross section with optional overhang Figure 9: Trim Option A: Concrete slab Option B: Building your trusses for a ridge board Option C: 8ft sidewalls Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Option Option Option Option

D: 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang E: Double doors F: 4/12 and 5/12 roof pitch G: Ramp

Videos I have made a video for each step as well as an introductory video that reviews all 10 steps. The information in the videos is similar to the plans but there are more specific details in the plans. So you might want to watch the video as an introduction then study the written section in the plans for details.

Introductory Video I suggest you watch the introductory 10 step video to get an overall view of the shed building process. •

Build A Shed In 10 steps

Individual Videos For Each Step •

Step 1: Foundation

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Step 2: Floor

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Step 3: Trusses

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Step 4: Gable End Walls

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Step 4a: Side Walls

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Step 5: Door

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Step 6: Raising And Attaching The Walls

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Step 7: Finishing The Door

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Step 8: Framing The Roof

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Step 9: Trim

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Step 10: Shingle The Roof

All Videos To see all my shed building videos go to my website video page here...

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Please Join My Mailing List Please click here to join my mailing list if you haven't already done so. This way I can keep you informed about revisions and updates to these plans and to my website.

Getting Started These plans are for building a gable roof storage shed in 21 different sizes from 8x4 to 12x20 as shown in Table 1. They use an 8x12 shed as an example and are designed with: •

16 inch centers for the floor joists and the wall studs

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24 inch centers for the roof trusses.

For an even stronger shed you could build the wall studs 16 inch on center rather than 24, and the floor 12 inch on center instead of 16.

Hyperlinks I have included lots of hyperlinks to help you navigate these plans quickly and easily. When ever I mention a figure or a table you can follow a hyperlink right to it. I have also included numerous links to my website for videos, a larger materials list, assorted information articles and to my newsletter sign up page. You will need internet access to reach these links.

Information Tables Once you have decided what size shed you want to build, purchase the number of items shown below your chosen size in Table 1. Ask your building supply store for their estimate for fasteners as you are purchasing the lumber. When a Figure show a letter ("A", "B", "C" etc.), you can find this dimension in table Table 2. Table 3 shows the number of floor joists, wall studs and trusses you will need based on the length of the floor/wall your are building. For example if you are building a 12 foot long floor, you will need 10 floor joists. But if you are building a 12 foot wall you will need 7 studs for that wall.

Caution: There are four places where building an 8 wide and a 10-12 wide shed differ. These details are explained in full in the appropriate step. I just want to point them out here so that you will be aware that most of the procedure is the same. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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•

8 wide sheds use 2x4 floor joists, 10-12 wide sheds use 2x6 floor joists.

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You should should add some 2x4 blocking where the large and small pieces of plywood join on 10-12 wide sheds for extra floor strength.

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You will need to splice a 3 to 6 inch piece of scrap siding at the top of the gable end truss on 10-12 wide sheds.

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On a 10 wide shed door you will need to change the spacing and add one additional upright to the inner door frame.

Otherwise the differences are the length and number of components you will need, as detailed in Tables 2 and 3.

General Notes: I have several general recommendations that will save you some money, time and effort. Pre Cuts: I call for 2”x4”x92 5/8” pre cut because they are often 25 to 50 cents cheaper each. If your building supply store doesn't carry them then just use full 2”x4”x8' lumber. Screws vs. Nails: I recommend using screws instead of nails to assemble the framing because they have better holding power than nails. They also have better pulling power. A screw can pull a twisted board into place better than a nail can. Pilot Holes: I also I recommend drilling 1/8 inch pilot holes regardless of whether you use screws or nails. This will prevent the ends of your boards from splitting as well as make them easier to assemble. In addition your screw or nail will not go astray because of the grain of the wood, nor will you have difficulties with knots. This will add a little time to the project but it will make construction much easier. If you have a nail gun then by all means use it. Just be careful to not split the ends of the wood. Siding: Using 4x8 sheets of composite siding that comes with a factory primer will allow you to build your new shed with the least cost and in the shortest amount of time. Composite siding holds paint better than real wood siding and speeds construction over using a plywood or OSB base and covering with strips of siding. It comes in various grades and thicknesses depending on your budget. The top of the line if you can afford it is called "Duratemp". It is 1/2 to 5/8 inch plywood covered with a veneer of composite hard board. This offers the best of both worlds, strength and durability.

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Also "Smart Panel" offers a 1/2 - 5/8 inch thick OSB siding with a veneer of composite hard board which might be more readily available. Trim: These plans are based on ripping 7/16 inch x 4' x 8' sheets of no groove (groove less) composite siding into 2 1/2 inch x 8 foot strips. Two sheets will give you more than enough to trim the door and corners for any size shed you build. You don’t absolutely need a table saw but it's the best way. You can do it with a circular saw but your cuts will not be so nice. No groove siding is siding without the normal grooves in it. You could use regular grooved siding but then you will have no control over where the grooves fall on your 2 1/2 inch strip. Or else you will have a lot of waste if you try to plan your cuts around the existing grooves in the normal siding. The no groove siding doesn't need to closely match the other siding. It just needs to match the texture so that it matches when painted. So if necessary you can buy one brand of grooved siding and another brand of no groove siding in the event you can't buy them both in the same brand. Or you can buy ready made trim boards but they are very expensive. As a last alternative you can 1×3 pine boards for the trim. But I strongly recommend against this because real wood will take lots of extra prep time and effort and still will not give you as nice a finish product as composite hard board trim. Tools: This is a list of tools that you’ll need to build a shed. If you don’t have all of them it’s likely that you can borrow what you don’t have from a friend or a relative. Hand Tools • • • • • • • • •

Claw hammer Tape measure and pencil Speed square Level Chalk line Tin snips Step ladder Utility knife Hand saw

Power Tools • • • • •

Extension chords Circular saw Electric drill, 1/8″ drill bit, Philips screwdriver bit Router, 1/4 inch router bit, router collar Table saw Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Paint Equipment • Caulk gun • Brush • Roller and cage (or a spray gun)

Notice: •

Building permits might be necessary to build a shed in your area so check with your local building department before you get started. For more information read this article about shed building legal issues on my website.

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These construction techniques might not meet the building codes in your area as they vary around the country.

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There are no gurantees about the structural integrity of this shed.

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I/we are not responsible for the safety of anyone building a shed based on these plans.

Now lets get started building...

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Step 1: Foundation The main function of your sheds foundation is to transfer the weight of your shed and its contents to the ground. But it also serves several other important functions. • • • •

It provides a way to level your shed if necessary It protects your sheds floor against moisture And it protects your shed against termites When necessary can protect your shed from movement resulting from frost heave, water or wind.

3 General types of shed foundations • • •

Simple skid foundation on earth, gravel or concrete blocks Wood and concrete pier foundation Concrete slab which serves as both a foundation and floor

Please note: If you want to build your shed on a concrete slab then jump to ahead and review Option A in the appendix now.

Basic skid foundation A basic skid foundation consists of two pressure treated 4x4 skids laid parallel on the ground. This is a lot cheaper than a concrete slab and has the added benefit of keeping your shed portable should you ever want to move it in the future. Pressure treated means that the skids are rated for long term ground contact and are resistant to water rot and termite damage. Pressure treated wood is usually some shade of green as a result of it’s chemical treatment and is labeled with a tag to identify it as being pressure treated.

See Table 2: Cut your skids to length using measurement “B” From Table 2. Don’t trust the factory cuts because large pieces of dimensional lumber are usually ¼ to ½ inches longer than stated. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Select a location with adequate drainage then clear and level the building area. You can lay the skids directly on the ground, on concrete blocks, or on a bed of gravel.

See Table 2 and Figure 2: The skid spacing will differ depending on the width of the shed you’re building. The measurement for the skid spacing is measurement “D” in Table 2, and is shown on Figure 2: Floor Dimensions and Layout. If your site is fairly level you the skids directly on the

can lay ground.

If your site is not level then concrete blocks under each every 4 feet or less and build points up with more blocks and until the skids are approximately level.

place skid the low wedges

Dig the ground out to provide base for the blocks or skids necessary.

a stable where

Don’t worry about getting the skids perfectly level at this point because you’ll make the final level when the floor frame is complete. If drainage is a problem you can dig a trench under each skid about 12 inches wide and 12 inches longer than the length of your shed, fill it with gravel and place your skids on top. If you expect to have a problem with your shed moving from frost heave, water or wind, or if it’s required by building codes in your area you can tie your shed down. I’ve already covered shed tie downs in these other posts… • Why you might need to tie your shed down • Cheap home made shed tiedowns • Frost heave and your shed foundation If you need to then just skip over to my shed tie down posts to see what you need to do before building the floor.

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Wood post and concrete pier foundation The location, number, size and depth of the piers might be dictated by building codes. It will also be a function of the weather in your area. You might need to dig down below the frost line to get the best results. In the absence of building codes and with moderate weather you should have a pier at each corner, about 12 inches in diameter and going down 24 to 36 inches into the ground. In addition you will need a concrete block support every 4 feet or less in between the piers.

Dig holes Lay your skids out, level and square them as above. But don't put a support block at the end of the skids where you will place the piers. Mark the ground where you will dig your holes about 6 to 8 inches from the end of the skids. Move the skids out of the way, dig your holes and put the skids back in place. Measure from the bottom of the skid to the bottom of each hole and cut a pressure treated 4x4 pier 4 inches less than this measurement. This will allow enough room for concrete to flow under the bottom end of the pier to prevent wood to earth contact. Just an extra precaution.

Install piers Place the 4x4 piers into their holes and secure them to the skids. You can use a metal mending plate on each side, or a metal strap going over the top of the skid attached to either side of the 4x4 pier. Or you can use a specializes metal Simpson tie if they are avaliable in your local store. With the 4x4 piers hanging down in the empty holes, re square and re level the skids. When they are correctly positioned then fill the holes with concrete up to ground level and let them dry for a day or two.

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Finished foundation Now you have a solid foundation to build your floor on. Before you sheet your floor you can add some metal straps or H25's to tie the skids to the floor joists for extra security.

Foundation for floor-less shed You don't necessarly need a floor in your shed as long as you have a suitable foundation. Here are 2 foundation options if you want to build without a floor. •

Pressure treated wood frame with post and concrete piers

•

Concrete stem wall

It's important that you build the foundation tall enough to keep the siding away from the ground where moisture and termites will damage your shed. I recommend at least 4 inches of distance between the ground and any untreated wood. Like the bottom edge of the siding. One way to accomplish this is by increasing the stud length. This will reduce the lower siding overhang and make your walls taller. I recommend a minimum of 1 inch lower siding overhang to prevent water from seeping under the bottom plate. This means your foundation needs to be at least 5 inches above ground level. How deep you go will depend on building codes, frost level and if you will have animals trying to dig under your foundation to get in or to escape.

Pressure treated wood frame with post and concrete piers Layout perimeter Lay out pressure treated 4x6's to make a wooden perimeter frame the same size as the shed. Turn them so they are 6" tall. Pull a tape measure diagonally across to make sure the frame is square.

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This is an example of a foundation frame for a 12x16 shed.

Install post and piers Mark where you want your post and piers to be. Remove the pressure treated wood perimeter frame and install the piers every 4 to 6 ft, as described previously. And make sure it's level and square then secure the wood perimeter frame to the uprights with galvanized metal straps. Don't worry about tying the individual perimeter pieces together because once you tie the shed in, that will tie all the foundation pieces together.

Attach shed Attach the shed walls to this perimeter frame with 3 inch nails or screws through the bottom plate and galvanized 8d nails every 8 inches through the siding overhang. This graphic shows a 5 1/2 inch tall frame with 1 inch siding overhang and 4 inch gap from ground level.

Got animals? As an option you can install more pressure treated wood below ground level to keep animals from digging under the walls.

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Concrete stem wall Another option is to build a concrete stem wall. This can be a footer with a concrete block stem wall or a mono pour with the footer and stem wall made at the same time. Build the outside of the stem wall the same size as your shed.

Attach with j-bolts Attach the shed walls to the stem wall with j-bolts embedded in the concrete 12 inches off each corner then 48 inches on center. The top of the stem wall should be 5 inches above ground level minimum, which makes a 4 inch gap from the ground to the bottom of the siding when using a 1 inch siding overhang..

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Step 2: Floor If you live in an exceptionally wet area or have a major termite problem you might want to use pressure treated wood for the entire floor including the skids, the floor joists and the plywood sheeting. This will add to the initial cost of your shed but it might also save you money in the long run because a floor built with pressure treated lumber will last longer in these situations.

See Table 2 and Table 3: Get the number of floor joists you'll need from Table 3, and the cut length for the band boards and floor joists and skid spacing from Table 2.

See Figure 2: Cut your band boards and floor joists and lay the band boards out for 16 inches on center and drill two pilot holes for each 2x4 joist, or three holes for each 2x6 joist. If you are building an 8 wide and using 2"x4"x92 5/8" precuts then you can use them here without any cutting. They will be 3/8" short but this will be split in half to 3/16" on either side when you cover the floor with plywood. You'll save a few dollars over 2"x4"x8'ers and no one will be the wiser. All 10 and 12 wide sheds use 2"x6" joists so you'll have to cut them to length. Assemble the frame: Lay the joists out on top of the pressure treated skids and space them about 16 inches apart. Attach the band boards to the joists with two to three 3 inch screws or 16d nails at each joist.

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Attach the skids: Position each skid as per measurement "D" from Table 2. Then drill pilot holes and toe nail both sides of each floor joist to the skids with 3” screws or 16d nails. Except the front and rear joist. Leave these two free so you can manipulate them to match the outside edge of the plywood sheeting as you nail it on.

Square: Check the square by pulling a tape measure and comparing diagonal measurements across the floor. Slid a skid back or forth until the measurements are equal. Now the floor is square.

Level: Now that the floor frame is finished and you will not be knocking it around any more it's time to level it. Level across the front, middle and back and along both sides with a builders level. Add or remove a little dirt or gravel under the skids until the floor is level. If necessary place concrete blocks every 36-48 inches under each skid. Add blocks or wedges between the blocks and skids until the floor is level in all directions. Recheck the square by comparing the diagonal measurements again. Any extra effort you spend carefully level Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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the floor now will pay off when you later when start sheeting the roof. If the floor is not level the roof sheeting will not fit properly and you will have to re-level at that time. Tie downs: If you want to attach tie downs to the floor of your shed, do it now. Attach them to the floor joists rather than the skids for an extra measure of security.

Nail the sheeting: Lay your best sheet of plywood along the front of the floor frame. Square it up to the front edge and corners and nail along the front edge. Check the edges for square along the side and nail every 8 inches with 8d nails. Repeat with the second and third sheet, putting the worst sheet at the back of the floor. -

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Extra blocking on 10 & 12 wide floors: If you're using regular CDX plywood as opposed to tongue and groove you should provide some extra support where the full pieces of plywood meet the cut pieces. To make these blocks cut 12 inches off the ends of some of the 2x4's that you will be using for studs. You will need one less than the number of floor joists you have. These blocks will fit loosely, but that's ok. Attach them to the underside of the plywood joint with three or four 2 inch screws. Leave about half of the block exposed. After you nail the smaller pieces of plywood in place then put screws on the other side of the joint to match. Snap a chalk line across the floor every 16 inches using the screw heads on the band boards as a guide. Nail the center of your sheeting along the chalk lines every 8 inches.

Toe nail: Toe nail the front and rear joists to the skids.

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Step 3: Make The Trusses Make the trusses now because you'll need two of them to build the gable end walls in the next step. Please note: If you want to build your shed with a ridge board then jump to ahead and review Option B in the appendix now. To increase the roof pitch to 4/12 or 5/12 you can review Option F here. It’s important that all your trusses be the same height and width so that the ridge line of your new shed will be symmetrical. You can do this by making a simple truss jig.

See Figure 3: Make a simple truss jig out of an unused 2x4 top plate by placing two pencil marks the width of the shed (Dimension "A") on the narrow edge of the 2x4. Cut two small pieces of wood and screw them to the outside of these marks. Then screw this jig assembly to the floor. See Table 3: Get your truss count from Table 3 and measure and cut the individual pieces. Use a speed square to mark the angles if you don't have access to a miter saw. Cut the angled truss pieces first then cut the collar beams out of the remaining end pieces. Drill a pilot hole in the pointy end of every other truss piece so you can toe nail them together at the top joint. Put the ends of two truss pieces into the jig and press everything together so that the ends fit tight in the jig and the top joint is symetrical. Toe nail the top joint with a single screw through the pilot hole. Position a collar beam parallel to the jig and mark the location of the truss below with a pencil. Remove the collar beam and use it as a master to drill 4 holes in each end of all the collar beams making sure to locate them so the screws will go into the truss below. Put a collar beam back on the truss pieces in the jig and screw it to the truss with four Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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screws on each side. Also make sure the collar beam doesn't hang above the top of the truss or it will interfere with the roof sheeting. Pull a tape along the width of the truss to make sure your width measurement is correct. Make a pencil mark on the floor along the top edge of the truss so you can compare the rest of your trusses to this mark as you build them. If a truss is off significantly you will know it immediately. After you have built all the trusses you can double check them for size by standing them up on end and measuring the distance from the floor to the peak of the truss. If they are all equal (or close enough), then you are finished and can disassemble the jig. If some of your trusses are slightly off, don't despair. If you use them properly this will not be a problem. Simply use the shortest pair of trusses to build the gabled end walls with. Use the single tallest truss in the center of the shed. Use the next tallest pair on either side of the center truss. Use the last pair next to the gable ends. This way the roof will still be symmetrical and you won't have to waste or rebuild any of your less than perfect trusses.

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Step 4a: Frame The Gable End Walls Please note: If you want to build your shed with 8ft sidewalls then jump ahead and review Option C in the appendix now. You will build all the walls directly on the empty floor. You'll want to build the shorter walls first so you can move them aside and use the floor space to build the longer and heavier walls in place. Here I'm assuming the gable end walls are the shorter and therefore lighter walls. If not go to Step 4b and build the sidewalls first, move them aside, and then come back here to build the gable end walls in place.

See Figure 4a and Table 2: Figure 4a shows a stud length of 73 1/2 inches which is for a 2x4 floor. If you are building a 2x6 floor you need to reduce the stud length to 71 1/2 inches otherwise 2 inches of floor joist will be exposed to the weather. This will present a maintenance problem in the future because real wood does not hold paint as well as the composite siding. Real wood will weather faster and need repainting sooner than the siding. If you want to keep the wall studs longer for more inside height that's ok. Just be aware of the future maintinance issue. Measure and cut the wall studs and top and bottom plates. Layout the top and bottom plates at 24” O.C. and drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes for each stud.

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Frame The Gable End Wall: Lay the wall studs on the floor spaced 24 inches apart and attach each stud to the top and bottom plates with two 3 inch screws or 16d nails.

Place Spacer Under Truss: Lay a truss on the floor touching the top plate with the collar beam facing down and slide a 1/2 inch spacer underneath the collar beam. This will bring the top edge of the truss level with the top edge of the top plate.

Attach Truss: Drill 1/8 inch pilot holes through the outer ends of the top plate and secure the tips of a truss to the top plate with 3 inch screws. The truss and top plate should be flush at the top edge of the top plate. This screw is not for strength, it's just to keep the truss in position until it's nailed to the siding. Check for square by comparing the diagonal measurements. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Sheet The Walls: Make sure the siding is square to the frame with 4 inches overhanging below the bottom plate. Nail with 8d galvanized nails every 8 inches. Snap a chalk line along the center of the top and bottom plates to identify those nail lines, and snap another line across the top of the truss and trim the excess siding. Also trim the ¾ inch lip overhanging one edge. Attach Handles: Attach scrap pieces of 2x4's to the wall about knee high with 3 inch screws to make the wall easier to move. This way you can stand the wall up vertically and have more control when you are ready to attach it to the floor and to the other walls. Set this wall aside to make room to build the next ones. For 10 & 12 Wides Only: If you're building 10 or 12 wide gable end walls you'll need to splice a three to six inch scrap of siding to the top of the truss. This is because the 10 and 12 wide sheds are also a little bit taller. Line the grooves on the scrap up with the grooves on the end wall and nail it in place. Set this wall aside to make room for the next one. Build The Second Gable End Wall. If you're going to put a door in the next gable end wall then proceed to Step 5 for instructions on how to make the door. Set this wall aside to make room to build the sidewalls. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Step 4b: Frame The Sidewalls SeeTable 2 and Figures 4b, 4c and 4d: The side walls have different measurements than the gable end walls. Measure and cut the wall studs and plates per Table 2 and Figures 4b, 4c, and 4d. The studs on these sidewalls are cut with a 14 degree angle on the top end and the length measurement is at the short side of the angle. Important: Make sure you build the sidewalls with the short side of the stud on the outside of the wall where the siding will be nailed. You do this by laying the studs down on the floor with the short side up in all cases. Step 5: Door in a sidewall: If you are going to put a door in one of the side walls then proceed to Step 5 for instructions on how to frame a door into this wall. Build the blank wall first then build the door wall on top of it. See Figure 6: Layout and drill pilot holes: Layout the top and bottom plates at 24” O.C. and drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes for each stud. These plates are 7 inches shorter than the overall wall length because they will sit inside the gable end walls. So when you lay these side walls out, the end studs will be 3 1/2 inches closer to the next stud than with the gable end walls as per Figure 6. Attach the bottom plate: Lay the wall studs on the floor (with the short side up) spaced about 24 inches apart. Attach each stud to the bottom plate with two 3” screws or 16d nails.

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See Figure 4c, Spacer detail: Before you attach each stud to the top plate put a 1/4 inch spacer below the end of the stud to raise it up so that the the stud will be in proper alignment with the corner of the top plate so that the siding will lay flat. Lay a scrap of wood along the stud extending past the top plate to double check that this spacing is correct.

Sheet walls: Make sure the siding is square to the frame with a 4 inch overhang on the bottom. There will be 3 1/2 inches overhang at each outside end. Nail with 8d galvanized nails every 8 inches.

Snap a chalk line, then trim: Snap a chalk line along the center of the top and bottom plates and along the outermost two studs and nail. Then trim the ¾ inch lip on 8, 12, 16 and 20 ft walls.

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Top Cut Mark: Measure and mark 84 from the bottom of the siding and snap a chalk line to mark the top cut line. Cut this excess siding off which will leave a 3 1/2 inch overhang at the top plate.

Build the second sidewall: Leave this finished wall in place and build the next wall directly on top of it.

Paint Now? Now that all the walls are complete you might want to paint the walls and trim while you can work on them laying horizontally. They will be much easier to paint this way.

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Step 5: Make The Door Please note: If you want to build double doors then jump ahead and review Option E in the appendix now. This door construction method saves time and money because it uses the materials that are cut out of the rough opening that would otherwise be thrown away. It consists of an outer frame which is built in the wall, and an inner frame which is the actual door. These two are framed and sheeted simultaneously. Later in (Step 7) you'll cut the door out.

You can put the door in either the gable end wall or in a sidewall. The only difference is which king stud you will use. For a door in the gable end wall use a regular stud.

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Door In Side Wall For a door in a sidewall use a king stud with an angle on it. (Remember to build with the short side of the angle up toward the siding). Otherwise there is no difference in the construction.

Inner Door Frame Layout You can place the door anywhere on the wall you like. However I recommend that you place it on some increment of 12 inches. Then you are covered by either instance in Figure 5b. The difference in the inner door frame layout reflects where the studs fall on their 24 inch centers. You always need a stud in the inner door frame where the siding comes together to give you something to nail into. Where the inner door frame studs fall depends on where the door is located in reference to the end of the wall. On an 8ft wide shed the door begins at 2 ft off the edge of the wall. On a 10 ft wide shed it's 3 ft and on a 12 wide shed it's 4 ft. This is what changes the inner door upright spacing as indicated in Figure 5b. But that might also change if you move the door to one side or another. The way to determine the inner door frame layout is when you do the rough assembly with the inner door frame pieces to check for fit. Pull a tape measure and calculate where the siding will come together and that's where you need an upright.

Caution: Make sure the siding doesn't come together where you have a cut line. I.E. on a jack stud. Because there will be many nails in that joint and it will ruin your router bit. So make sure the siding joint falls on a king stud, a regular stud or an inner door upright. If necessary you can start the wall with a 2ft piece of siding instead of a full 4ft piece of siding to change the location of the joint. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Door Width You can also make the door wider or narrower. Just adjust the the door header to your desired rough opening size and cut the horizontal cross pieces and trim to fit, and calculate the inner door frame layout as per the section above.

Outer Door Frame See Figure 5a, Outer door frame: Cut jack and king studs, spacers strips and header. You will need one fewer king studs than on a wall without a door. Build a sandwiched door header by nailing a piece of scrap siding between two 2x4s. This extra half inch makes the total width to 3 ½ inches, the same as the height of a 2x4. Attach the jack studs to the king studs and nail the header in place. Nail the door frame and the two outside studs to the top and bottom plates. Cut eight) 3x3 spacers from the scraps of siding you trimmed from the gable ends. Put the spacers loosely inside the outer frame, two into both top corners and two in both bottom corners. These are to keep the inside door frame from shifting until you get it nailed to the siding See Figure 5b, Inner door frame: Measure and cut four cross pieces and three uprights. 10 wide only: You will need one more upright and change the spacing so that there will be a stud where the siding breaks when you build a 10 wide. Lay all the pieces in the frame to check the fit. Remove the pieces, lay them on the floor and assemble with screws. Verify that this assembly lays flat and is not warped in any direction Lay this inner door frame inside the outer door frame with the spacers at the top and sides. It should fit nicely and not move around. For a gable end wall install the truss with a 3 inch screw at each end and remember the ½ inch spacer below the collar beam. Check for square by comparing diagonal measurements. Important: Measure and record the distance from the center of the stud where the siding breaks to the inside edge of the rough opening in both directions. This measurement should be 21 ¾" for an 8-12 wide, 9 3/4" and 33 3/4" for a 10 wide. These measurements will be used to locate the vertical cut lines after the siding is nailed Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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on. Lay the first piece of siding in place. Square it up to the center stud and check for proper overhang on the bottom. See Figure 5c, Nailing sequence: Put a nail through the siding into the inner door frame bottom cross piece about 2 inches from the edge of the siding. But don't nail into the bottom plate because doing so will nail the door shut. Put another nail in the center door cross piece and top door cross piece, and in the top plate. Double check the overhang at the end of the bottom plate and put a nail at the outside ends of the top and bottom plates. Place a mark on the siding ½ inch above the bottom of the header. Important: This mark must be visible when the second piece of siding is installed. Lay the next piece of siding in place and put 4 nails in to match the nails in the first piece of siding. Then put a nail into the end of the top and bottom plates. See Figure 5d, Chalk lines: Snap a chalk line along the center of the top and bottom plates, and along the top of the truss where you will trim it. These are nail lines. Nail across the top plate only, do not nail the bottom plate at this time. And nail the outside studs and along the truss inside the chalk line. Measure from the top of the siding to the mark you made ½ inch above the bottom of the door header and transfer this measurement to both ends of the wall and snap a chalk line. This is the horizontal cut line for the top of the door. Measure from the top of the siding to the middle of the door center cross piece as evidenced by the nail heads. Transfer these measurements to both sides of the wall and snap a chalk line. This is a nail line. Place a pencil mark at the top and bottom of the siding 22 ¼ inches from the middle of the center stud in both directions. This should be half the rough opening width plus ½ inch in either direction (from the measure you took above just before you nailed the first piece of siding). Snap a chalk line on both of these marks. These are the two vertical cut lines. Now you should have: •

Two vertical chalk lines

•

Four horizontal chalk lines (center of top and bottom plates and center door cross Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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pieces, and the top cut line) •

Plus the chalk lines across the top of the truss for gable end walls

See Figure 5e, Inner door trim: Measure and cut a piece of trim to fit between the two vertical cut lines at the top cut line. Place the top edge of this piece at the top cut line and nail it ¾ inch from its bottom edge and within two inches of each end. Measure and cut two vertical pieces to run from the bottom of this piece to the bottom edge of the siding. Nail these ¾ inch from their inside edges from top to bottom to within two inches of the bottom plate chalk line. Measure and cut the last two horizontal trim pieces. Position the middle piece of trim so that it's centered on the chalk line and nail it down the middle. Position the bottom piece of trim so the lower edge lies on the bottom plate chalk line and nail ¾ inches from its top edge. See Figure 5f, Outer door trim: Cut five spacers from scrap trim about 1 inch wide. Lay two of these spacers along the top trim piece and the other three on the outside of the first vertical piece of trim. Lay a piece of trim horizontal along the top two spacers and another piece vertical along the other three spacers and pull them tight into the spacers. Measure and cut the vertical piece of trim so that it extends between the bottom of the siding to 7/16 inch above the top edge of the top horizontal door trim, as allowed by the spacer. Nail this in place along the center of the trim. Move the three spacers to the other vertical trim piece and measure, cut and install the same way. Then measure, cut and install a horizontal piece across the top of the two vertical pieces you just installed. Double check your spacing: In Step 7 you will run a router inside the groove between these trim pieces and cut the door out. So double check that this spacing is correct by removing the collar from the router and running it all the way through the gap between the inner and outer siding. This will confirm the width is correct and the router will move properly.

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Step 6: Stand The Walls Now its time to attach the four walls to the floor. If you skipped ahead to Step 11 (Maintenance) to paint the walls then you have already moved them off the floor and onto the ground. If your side walls are still laying on the floor, then slide them about a foot from the back edge so you’ll have sufficient room to work. See Floor Plan Figure 6: Set the back gable end wall vertical on the edge of the floor and center it from side to side. When it's in the correct position attach it to the floor by nailing through the siding and into the floor frame about two inches above the bottom edge of the siding with 8d galvanized nails every 8 inches.

Cheating when necessary... If a wall doesn't line up with the floor then put a car jack under the floor and raise it up to fit the wall. Nail that part of the wall in place then move the jack. Do this at any place where the floor doesn't meet the wall. Remember this cheat when you apply the roof sheeting. Put a jack under a corner and raise it up till the roof sheeting comes in line with the truss. Then nail that piece down. Do the same with the rest of the pieces. Experiment with jacking different corners or walls until you get the results you want. After the roof is sheeted then go around and re level the floor. If your shed is slightly out of square at the end of all of this, don't worry as it will not be enough to notice. This is the real world way to make all the pieces fit together. In my shed building business I have special pulling straps and jacks for this purpose Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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because sheds never come together perfectly without a little "assistance". Add a brace if necessary: Put a 16d nail in the center of the back of the wall and add a temporary 2x4 brace to the ground if necessary.

First sidewall: Stand the first sidewall and slid it firmly into the bottom plate of the end wall. Make sure the corner studs are tight together from top to bottom and nail through the sidewall siding into the end wall corner stud from top to the bottom. Then nail across the floor about 2 inches from the bottom edge of the siding.

-

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Second sidewall: Raise the other sidewall and nail the corner joint and across the bottom of the siding into the floor frame.

Last gable end wall: Move the last gable end wall into place and nail the corners then across the bottom. Caution: Which ever wall contains the door, don't nail across the bottom of the door because that will be nailing it shut.

Remove the carrying handles. Now it’s starting to look like a shed...

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Step 7: Finish Door Now it's time to finish the door. I recommend using 1/4 inch carriage bolts to mount the hinges and latch because they can not be backed out like screws can. Plus they hold much firmer and will help reduce future door sagging problems. Router bit: You'll need a straight 1/4 inch router bit

Router collar: You'll also need a router collar with an inside diameter slightly larger than the 1/4 inch router bit. It will consist of the collar and a threaded ring to hold it to the router base. You can purchase them individually or in a set.

-

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Adjust the cut depth: Adjust the cut depth of the bit to the thickness of the siding plus the thickness of the trim, plus about 1/8 inch extra. If you are using typical 7/16 inch siding that will add up to 1 inch.

See Figure 7, First router cut: The gap between the inner and outer door trim will guide the router collar as the bit cuts through the siding. Start at the bottom of the side where you are putting the hinges and pull the router through the gap between the trim up to the top and about half way across the top of the door. Make sure you cut well past where the hinge will be mounted so that it will not interfere with the base of the router when you start the second cut. If you aren't cutting through the siding then set the cut depth a little deeper until you just graze the 2x4 frame below the siding. If your cut depth is set a little too deep it will not hurt anything. You'll just have to work harder because you're cutting through more wood. -

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Mount the hinges: Locate where you want the hinges and drill ¼ inch holes for carriage bolts. Use a long drill bit because you will have to go through 1 inch of trim and 3 ½ inches of wood. Mount the hinges by driving 5 inch carriage bolts into the holes. Place a second ladder inside the shed and climb inside. Install the washers and nuts, then remove the door spacers. Second cut: Finish cutting across the top of the door where you left off and cut down the latch side to the bottom edge.

Open the door: Open the door and inspect your work. If you located your cut lines correctly you will have an even half inch reveal all around the door.

-

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Mount the latch: Locate where you want the latch to go and drill ¼ inch holes and mount with carriage bolts.

Remove bottom plate: And finally, use a hand saw to cut the bottom plate out of the door opening between the door frames.

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Step 8: Framing The Roof Framing the roof consists of attaching the trusses to the top plates then nailing the roof sheeting to the trusses. You should also nail through the sidewall siding into the ends of each truss to secure the roof structure to the rest of the shed. Hang trusses: Hang the trusses upside down between the walls with each end resting on the top plate directly over a wall stud. For aesthetic purposes only: Make sure to hang the trusses so that the collar beam on all trusses faces the same direction... Either facing to the front of the shed or to the rear.

Install trusses: Stand the first truss upright and center it over a stud. The wall studs and trusses are both 24 inch on center so just align the end of a truss up with the stud under the top plate and it will be in the correct position. Make sure the truss is pushed tight against the siding and run a 3 inch screw through the bottom plate into the truss on both sides of the stud. Do the same for this the rest of the trusses on this side. -

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The other end: If the other end of the truss doesn't fit tight against the siding you can hook the ends of a cargo strap over the siding on either wall and gently pull the walls together until they fit tight to the ends of the truss. Then run a 3 inch screw through the bottom plate into the truss on both sides of the stud like before. Repeat for all trusses. If you want to add the optional 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang to all 4 sides then jump ahead and review Option D in the appendix now. Install the roof sheeting: Begin installing the roof sheeting with a full 8 ft sheet aligned at the top edge of the truss and put a single nail in the outside corner at the top of the truss. Start the edge of the sheeting at the outside edge of the end truss. Split the truss with the opposite edge of the sheeting and nail into the truss at the top corner. Repeat for the rest of the large pieces of sheeting on the first side. -

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See Figure 8: Measure and mark the truss spacing for the rest of the trusses and nail with a single nail at the top of the truss at 24 inches on center. Measure the end truss spacing from the outside edge of the end trusses to the center of the closest truss, not including the siding (from the joint of the siding and the truss). The inside trusses are measured center to center. Stagger the seams: Nail the large sheets for the other side along the top of the trusses only, but stagger the seams if possible for a stronger shed.

Nail bottom edge: Check that the edges of the sheeting are properly aligned with the trusses at the bottom. The edge should align with the edge of the outside trusses or in the center of the inside trusses. If they don't align properly that means either that the floor isn't level or the walls are not square. But don't be alarmed if they aren't properly aligned because that rarely happens.

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The cure is to put a jack under one corner of the shed and lift it until the sheeting comes into proper alignment. If jacking makes it worse then you are lifting the wrong corner of the shed. Move your jack to the adjacent corner and try again. When a piece of sheeting lines up properly then nail it into the truss below. Continue jacking different corners of the shed until you get all the pieces of roof sheeting in proper alignment and nailed in place. You might have to re-level or re-block your shed at this point. Snap a chalk line to identify the underlying trusses and nail the sheeting in place with 8d nails every 8 inches. Put plenty of nails at both edges of the sheeting, particularly where the sheets meets at a truss. Secure siding to trusses: Nail two 8d nails from the outside through the sidewall siding into both ends of each truss to further secure the roof structure to the rest of the shed.

Finish sheeting: Stagger and install the bottom row of roof sheeting. You should have a 2 inch overhang on the eave sides and nothing at the gable ends.

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Step 9: Trim See Figure 9 for cut dimensions Cut 6 pieces of trim item A and 6 pieces of trim item B. The only difference between the two is the direction of the angle. Then cut 4 pieces of trim item C. All the dimensions for the trim are longer than the final size because they will need to be individually cut to fit. Gable end trim: Nail 1 piece of trim A and B to each of the gable ends starting at the top center. They will overhang quite a bit but you will trim them to fit later. Nail with galvanized nails every 6 inches.

Make sure the top edge of the trim lines up with the top surface of the OSB and not with the top edge of the siding. This 1/2 inch gap will be covered by the drip edge and shingles.

Corner and eave trim: Take a piece of trim C and hold it firm to the bottom of the OSB and to the front gable trim piece. Mark the bottom and cut to length. Then nail the top 6 inches in place. Take a piece of the front angle trim A or B and hold it in place flush to the edge of trim C and tight up to the gable end trim. Mark the bottom and cut to length. Hold in

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place and nail the top 6 inches. Now line the corner edges of the two trim pieces up and nail from the top to the bottom being careful with the edge alignment. Repeat for all corners.

Nail a full length piece of trim up under the eave tight to the bottom of the OSB. Cut the final eave piece to fit and nail in place. Repeat for the other side.

Cut excess: Mark and cut the excess off the gable end trim pieces. This trim piece will be shorter than the OSB roof sheeting but that gap will also be covered by the metal flashing and shingles.

This is what the final trim will actually look like.

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Step 10: How To Install Roof Shingles Installing shingles on the roof of your shed might seem complicated but it's easy if you take it one step at a time. Use 3/4 inch long galvanized roofing nails for all the roof work.

Eave drip edge: Install metal drip edge along both eave edges. I prefer using 3 inch “D” style. In this case I have already painted it to match my trim.

Felt paper: Roll out a layer or 15# of 30# felt paper to cover the entire roof. Use just enough roofing nails to keep it in place.

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Gable end drip edge: Install the drip edge on gable ends on top of the felt paper.

Starter row: Install a starter row of shingles. These are shingles with the tabs cut off that you install and nail close to the edge. The glue strip on this starter row will hold the tabs of the next row of shingles in place.

Alternate rows with half a tab removed: You want to stagger the joists between the shingles to prevent leaking and water damage. Begin the starter row with a full shingle, then cut half a tab off every other row of shingles. This way every joints where the shingles come together will be covered by a full tab above it.

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Shingle spacing: Most shingle manufacturers specify 5 inches of exposure. Put four roofing nails in each shingle about 5/8 inch above the tab cutout but below of the glue line.

Stack some supplies: Stack some shingles along the ridge line for convenience and install the shingles from the bottom eave up to the top. Start the shingles from the front of the shed and work to the back because the starting edge will be neater and less ragged than the edge you cut to fit. Work from the same end on both sides. This way you can use the cut offs from one side to finish the row on the other side.

Cutting surface: Use a utility knife, a straight edge and a cutting board to trim the shingles in each row to fit. Use the cutoffs from the other side of the shed if they are long enough.

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Keeping your rows straight: Measure each end of the row every few rows to make sure they aren't getting narrower or wider. If so, make it up on the next few rows. Don't wait till you get all the way to the top to find that your rows are uneven. If you can't do it by eye then snap a chalk line. You can also use the lines on the felt paper if you installed it square. But most likely you will need to snap a chalk line.

Cut ridge caps: Use your utility knife and straight edge to cut a stack of shingle tabs to nail along the ridge cap. The back edge of each tab tapers in so that it will fit neatly under the tab on top of it.

Nail ridge caps: Nail the row of ridge cap tabs on and you are finished with the roof.

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Maintenance Congratulations! You've just built a storage shed and saved a ton of money at the same time. Now you need to protect your investment for the long term.

Paint: The first thing you need to do is to paint your new shed. Paint serves 2 functions. •

The first is to make your shed look good.

•

The second and most important is to protect your shed.

Paint is a barrier against the elements that keeps water and the sun from damaging the wood. It is a protective coating. Caulking covers the large gaps that paint can’t cover. Then you paint the caulk to protect it too. So give your new shed 2 coats of the best paint you can find. The better the paint the longer it will last which means time and money saved on repainting in the years ahead. A good quality paint will last 5 to 10 years. Keep a close eye on it as it gets older and re caulk and re paint when necessary.

Termites: Whether done intentionally or accidentally, when termites find a path into the un treated wood of your shed they will make themselves at home and do damage to the wood long before you ever notice their presence. Protect your shed from termites by keeping any dead plants away from your shed. Termites will eat the dead plants and find their way into the shed. Also avoid leaning untreated wood against the outside of your shed for the same reason. If you decide you need a ramp then make it from pressure treated wood. It will not rot and is resistant to termites.

Loose fasteners: Your shed is put together with nails, screws and carriage bolts. But over time the wood these fasteners are installed into will relax and the fasteners will loosen up. After your shed is 3 to 6 months old, walk around it with a hammer and inspect for nails heads that are popping up. This mostly happens in the floor. Just pound them back in. If it happens on the outside, re touch the paint around the area that the nail head broke through. If the fasteners holding your door come lose, your door will start sagging. So be pro active here and keep the screws or bolts tight so your door stays in proper align. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Roof: Replace any loose or missing shingles immediately. Check the inside of your shed regularly for stains that indicate water damage. If you find some stains inside your shed, that is a sign that your roof has a leak. Once you have found the leak, how you repair it will depend on where it's located. Usually replacing any missing shingles and the proper application of a good quality caulk or roof coating will do the job.

How To Contact Me: •

You can email me at [email protected]

So if you have any questions or feedback I will be more than happy to hear from you.

Thanks, Phil the Shed Man

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A 4x4x8 pt A 4x4x10 pt A 4x4x12 pt B 2x4xpc C 2x4x8 C 2x4x10 C 2x4x12 C 2x4x14 C 2x4x16 C 2x4x18 C 2x4x20 C 2x6x8 C 2x6x10 C 2x6x12 C 2x6x14 C 2x6x16 C 2x6x18 C 2x6x20 D siding E No groove F ¾ CDX G ½ OSB H 10 ft drip edge I Felt 15# J shingles K hinges L latch M fasteners

1 0 2 0 0 2 4 2 0 0 2 4 2 0 2 0 0 2 4 2 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 2 4 0 2 0 0 0 2 0 1 0 0 2 1 0 0 0 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 2 1 0 0 33 39 46 48 53 59 64 42 43 49 53 58 62 67 44 49 54 59 64 69 6 5 7 5 5 5 5 5 1 1 1 1 1 1 5 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 4 8 4 4 4 4 4 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 6 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 4 4 8 4 4 4 0 0 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 7 11 10 12 13 15 16 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 7 9 12 12 13 15 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 10 11 12 13 14 15 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 3 4 4 5 5 6 7 3 4 5 6 6 7 2 2 3 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 7 7 9 9 6 8 8 10 10 12 2 3 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 6 6 7 7 5 5 5 6 7 7 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 4 5 6 7 7 8 9 5 5 6 7 8 9 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Total cost to build

tota l Sub

12x1 0 12x1 2 12x1 4 12x1 6 12x1 8 12x2 0

10x1 0 10x1 2 10x1 4 10x1 6 10x1 8 10x2 0 12x8

8x16 10x8

8x12 8x14

8x8 8x10

8x4 8x6

Cos t

Size

Table 1: Materials List and Cost Estimate for shed sizes 8x4 - 12x20

0 4 0 74 1 0 4 0 0 0 4 0 0 16 0 0 0 2 16 2 8 12 7 1 10 3 1 1

Dowload a wider version of this table I can't get this table in landscape (wide) format with the rest of the pages in portrait (tall) format. So here is a link where you can download this same table in the wider landscape format that is easier to read and will give you more writing room.

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Table 1 Notes: A) PT means pressure treated lumber, which is designed for long term ground contact without rotting or being eaten by termites. B) PC means pre cut 2x4x92 5/8 inch lumber. If your building supply store doesn't carry them then buy regular 2x4x96" lumber. I recommend using pre cuts because they are cheaper and often times better quality lumber. C) If you can't buy the length you need then buy the next longer size and cut it. This is often the case as many stores don't carry 14 or 18 ft lengths. D) Using 4x8 sheets of composite siding that comes with a factory primer will allow you to build this shed with the least cost and in the shortest amount of time. Composite siding holds paint better than real wood siding and speeds construction over using a plywood or OSB base and covering with strips of siding. It comes in various grades and thicknesses depending on your budget. The top of the line if you can afford it is called "Duratemp". It is 1/2 to 5/8 inch plywood covered with a veneer of composite hard board. This offers the best of both worlds, strength and durability. Also "Smart Panel" offers a 1/2 - 5/8 inch thick OSB siding with a veneer of composite hard board which might be more readily available. Regular composite siding will still give you a long service life as long as you keep it painted properly. Most of them are rated for 20 or 25 years. And it's a good choice for budget reasons. The only downside is that it's not available in high humidity areas like Florida and Hawaii. E) These plans are based on ripping 7/16 inch x 4' x 8' sheets of no groove (groove less) composite siding into 2 1/2 inch x 8 foot strips. One sheet will give you more than enough to trim the door and corners for this 8x8 shed. You don’t absolutely need a table saw but it's the best way. You can do it with a circular saw but your cuts will not be so nice. No groove siding is siding without the normal grooves in it. You could use regular grooved siding but then you will have no control over where the grooves fall on your 2 1/2 inch strip. Or else you will have a lot of waste if you try to plan your cuts around the existing grooves in the normal siding. The no groove siding doesn't need to closely match the other siding. It just needs to match the texture so that it matches when painted. So if necessary you can buy one brand of grooved siding and another brand of no groove siding in the event you can't buy them both in the same brand. Or you can buy ready made trim boards but they are very expensive. As a last alternative you can 1×3 pine boards for the trim. But I strongly recommend against this because real wood will take lots of extra prep time and effort and still will not give you as nice a finish product as composite hard board trim. F) CDX is the cheapest and roughest grade of plywood with cracks and knots in the surface. You can use a better grade for a nicer floor finish. You can use either normal square edge plywood or the more expensive tongue and groove especially designed for Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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floors. If you want to save few dollars you can even use 1/2 inch OSB. G) Organized Strand Board (OSB) for roof sheeting is less expensive than plywood. But you can use either. H)

Metal drip edge, "D" style, usually 10 ft lengths, galvanized or painted.

I)

Felt paper, 15 or 30#.

J) Number of shingle "bundles." 3 bundles usually cover 100 sq.ft of roof, or 1 "square." Use 3 tab shingles for economy, or spend a little more and buy high quality architectural shingles for longer lifespan and lower long term maintenance. K)

Hinges, use large heavy duty strap hinges.

L)

A typical gate latch will do in most cases.

M) Ask your building supply store for their estimate on the amount fasteners you'll need. Just buy more then you think you need because they're cheap and you can always use them on other projects. -3in deck screws for trusses and framing, -16d common nails for framing (if you don't use screws), -8d galvanized box nails for siding and trim, -8d sinkers nails for floor and roof sheeting (but you can use 8d galvanized nails), -5 1/2in x 1/4in carriage bolts, nuts, washers for the hinges and latch.

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Table 2: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed Shed size

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

8x4

96”

48”

93”

60”

41”

49.5”

32”

3.25”

62”

46.25”

15.75”

74”

96”

27.75”

8x6

72”

65”

8x8

96”

89”

8x10

120”

113”

8x12

144”

137”

8x14

168”

161”

8x16

192”

185”

10x8

120”

96”

117”

72”

89”

10x10

120”

113”

10x12

144”

137”

10x14

168”

161”

10x16

192”

185”

10x18

216”

209”

10x20

240”

233”

12x8

144”

96”

141”

84”

89”

12x10

120”

113”

12x12

144”

137”

12x14

168”

161”

12x16

192”

185”

12x18

216”

209”

12x20

240”

233”

“A” Overall width, Gable end wall top and bottom plates “B” Overall length, Floor band boards and pressure treated skids “C” Floor joists “D” Floor skid spacing “E” Sidewall top and bottom plates “F” Truss main rafter “G” Truss collar beams (8'- truss cut off, 10'- half of a pre-cut, 12'- full pre-cut) "H" Width of narrow piece of roof sheeting. See Step 8a if you are adding the optional overhang.

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Table 3: Cut list: Number of pieces for the floor or for each wall Dimension

Floor joists

Wall studs Trusses

4

4

3

6

6

4

8

7

5

10

9

6

12

10

7

14

12

8

16

13

9

18

15

10

20

16

11

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Figure 0: Sample of 14, 18 and 22 degree angle for 3/12, 4/12 and 5/12 roof pitch

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Figure 1: Detailed view of the framing

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Figure 2: Floor dimensions and layout

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Figure 3: Simple jig, truss components

Figure 4a: Gable end wall layout showing stud spacing and bottom siding overhang

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Figure 4b: Front cross section showing 14 degree angle on sidewall studs

Figure 4c: Sidewall stud spacer detail

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Figure 4d: Sidewall layout showing stud spacing and siding overhangs

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Figure 5a: Outer door frame including sandwiched header

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Figure 5b: Inner door frame

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Figure 5c: Nailing sequence

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Figure 5d: Chalk lines

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Figure 5e: Inner door trim

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Figure 5f: Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer door trim

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Figure 6: Wall dimensions and layout Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Figure 8: Sidewall cross section with truss layout

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Figure 8a: Cross section with optional overhang

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Figure 9: Trim

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Option A: Building Your Shed On A Concrete Slab At first glance you might think a concrete slab would be the ultimate floor and foundation system for your new shed. But a slab has two main drawbacks you should consider before you make a final decision. •

The cost: A concrete slab could easily cost 3 to 10 times the amount of a wood floor. Depending on if you do it yourself or hire someone.

•

Your shed is no longer portable.

No Longer Portable Not being portable is important for 2 reasons. •

You can’t move your shed if you need to.

•

And permanent structures are often treated differently by the law.

Permanent structures often need building permits regardless of the size. This means you will need to build it to code and have it inspected, both which will cost you additional time and money. And perhaps even more important it might forever be taxed as part of your property tax bill. But on the plus side is you will have a floor that can carry any kind of weight, will never rot, and your shed will be resistant to almost any source of movement be it water, wind or frost heave.

Physical Dimensions Build your slab the size of the shed floor as per Table 2. In other words if you are building an 8×12 shed then build an 8×12 slab. This way the siding will be able to hang over the side of the slab an inch to prevent water from seeping under the bottom plate and into your shed. If you want to put an apron in front make sure it slopes away from the shed or is a little lower than the floor. The top surface of your slab should be about 5 inches off the ground. This will allow your siding to overhang about 1 inch, then provide a 4 inch gap between the ground and the untreated wood siding. This 4 inch gap is your best defense against termites and moisture getting to the shed. And often times this is in the building code. Make your slab 4 inch thick and it will hold all the weight you can put on it. Any thicker is a waste of concrete and money.

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Ramp If you want a ramp it’s best to pour it the same time as the rest of the slab. You can frame it in and make it part of the slab. This way you will never have to worry about a wood ramp rotting and having to be replaced.

Anchors You can install “J” bolts in the concrete when it’s wet or you can install expandable head anchor bolts after the walls are in place. If you are building to code check which option they recommend or allow. Put an bolt 12 inches in from each side of both corners, then a bolt every 48 inches. And put a bolt near the edge of each side of the door.

Expandable Bolts To install expandable bolts put your 4 walls in place first. Then use a hammer drill and masonry bit the diameter of your bolts. Drill a hole through the bottom plate and into the slab sufficient for your bolts. Put the nut and washer on the bolt and drive it into the hole, then tighten it up with a wrench. This will expand the bottom of the bolt and turn it into a solid anchor.

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Weather Proof Use pressure treated 2×4′s for the bottom plates and put a foam seal between it and the slab. If you’re using “J” bolts in the slab then put the foam on the bolts before you raise the walls. If you’re using expandable bolts then staple the foam to the bottom plate before you raise the wall. This will keep it from moving around.

3 Inches Of Extra Wall Height My plans allow for a 4 inch overhang so that you can nail the siding directly to the floor for extra strength. But the siding only needs to overhang a slab about 1 inch. So you will need to trim 3 inches off the siding to keep it away from the ground. But a better way to use those extra 3 inches would be to build your shed 3 inches taller and gain some storage height. Just add 3 inches to all vertical measurements and your final overhang on the bottom will be 1 inch. Just what you want. Plus your shed will be 3 inches taller.

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Option B: Building Your Shed With A Ridge Board If you want to build your shed with a ridge board then cut all the truss rafters 3/4 inch shorter than dimension "F" in Table 2.

Build The Trusses Build the truss with a short (2 to 3 inch) 2x4 spacer in the gap where the ridge board will go. This spacer is temporary so don't secure it in any way. On 8 ft wide trusses make sure the collar beam is positioned so that does not interfere with the ridge board.

Build Gable Walls Keep the spacer in when you sheet the gable walls to make sure the gap doesn't close up because you will not be able to adjust it once the truss is nailed to the siding.

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Install The Ridge Board Cut to the ridge board to the length of the shed (dimension "B") and mark it 24 inch on center. Remove the spacers in both end walls and put the ridge board in between the 2 gable ends. Line it up with the top of the truss and nail in place.

Raise The Trusses Raise the trusses one at a time and work the ridge board into the gap. It might be a tight fit and take a little hammer work to get each one into place. Line the top of the truss with the top of the ridge board and nail the truss rafter to the ridgeboard on each side. Then nail the trusses into the top plate as normal.

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Option C: 8 Ft Sidewall Height You can easily and cheaply make your shed a foot taller. Some stores don't even sell 7ft siding so you might have to buy 8ft siding anyway. Rather than cutting it off go ahead and use all 8 feet and gain the extra height. Just add 12 inches to all vertical cut measurements.

Additional materials and cost The only additional material you will need is one more piece of siding to cut up and use to cover the gable ends and 2 or 3 pieces of "z" flashing (depending on the width of your shed).

Splice The Siding Splice the siding at the top plate and trim the bottom edges to the proper overhang.

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Install "Z" Flashing Install the “z” flashing to make the joint water tight then cover the gable end with siding and cut the excess off as normal.

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Option D: 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 Inch Overhang It's very easy to add 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inches of overhang on all 4 sides without needing any fancy rafter cuts or complicated soffit trim.

Additional materials and cost There will be a small additional cost but not as much as you might think. The biggest expense will be extra labor. You will need an additional 6 to 8 clean 2x4's or 2x6's for the overhang but you will save the same number of trim strips. And this will allow you to buy just 1 sheet of no groove siding instead of 2. And you will need 0 to 2 more sheets of roof sheeting, depending on the size shed you are building and how carefully you plan your cuts and use your cutoffs. You should be able to get all of your narrow roof strips out of the end cut offs on small sheds like 8x8 through 8x12.

Good value If you're willing to spend the extra time and labor this roof overhang is a very good value. On a small sheds it will be break even cost wise because you can use the cut offs from the roof sheeting and the savings in trim material will offset the additional cost of the 2x4's or 2x6's for the overhang. It will improve the looks of your shed as well as being functional.

On 8 ft wide sheds only install the small roof strips first This step is only necessary on 8 wide sheds because the strip is too small to give the overhang good support. On larger sheds the strip is wide enough to offer plenty of support when installed on the bottom. See Table 2: For 3 1/3 inch overhang cut the small roof strips 2 inches wider than called for in dimension “H”. For 5 1/2 inch overhang cut the small roof strips 4 inches wider than called for in dimension “H”. Cut them long enough to allow 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inches overhang on both the front and back gable ends. Remember to add 1/2 inch or so more for the thickness of the siding. For example rather than being Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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24/48/72 inches long it would be (24/48/72 + 4) or (24/48/72 + 6). Install these small pieces first at the top of the trusses and be sure to space the trusses per Step 8. This will put a full width piece of sheeting on the bottom edge to give the overhang plenty of strength thereby eliminating the need for fancy rafter cuts or complicated soffit trim.

Install the large sheets Install the large sheets as per Step 8 making sure everything is square as you nail them down. When you are finished you will have 3 1/3 or 5 1/2 inches of unsupported overhang on all 4 sides of your shed.

Horizontal trim See Figure 8a: Cut a 14 degree angle across the wide side of four straight and clean 2×4's (or 2x6's). Don't worry about the length yet. Just use full length and cut them to fit as necessary. Use screws: Attach them to the underside of the gable overhang with 1 inch to 1 ½ inch screws. You will not be able to hammer a nail in because it will bounce around too much (unless you have a nail gun). You can use “C” clamps to hold the ends in place if you don't have a helper. Attach the 2x4/2x6 trim to the front and back gable ends first, then under the eaves on both sides

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Use plenty of fasteners on the ends to prevent the 2×4′s from warping and pulling away. Mark and cut the excess off the gable end pieces.

Now you will have a nice 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang on all 4 sides. The 2x4/2x6 trim will give the overhang plenty of strength, give you backing to nail the shingles and drip edge into, and make the finished shed look good.

Vertical trim The 2x4 or 2x6 boards for the overhang will act as your horizontal trim so nothing else is needed there. Now you can go straight to installing the vertical trim. Cut to fit and install the corner trim so that it fits flush with the bottom of the siding and runs up to the roof trim. Nail with galvanized nails every 4 to 6 inches as per Step 9.

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Option E: Double Doors This is an example of building a double door on an 8ft high 16 ft long sidewall. Carefully study Step 5 because this section only deals with the difference between building a single door and a double door. It builds on the information in Step 5.

Door rough opening size Determine how wide and how tall you want your door opening to be and add 3 inches to get your header length.

Header Size For an end door you can use a sandwiched 2x4 header for maximum door height because the header will not be load bearing. But on a sidewall the header will be load bearing so I recommend using 2x6's.

Jack stud length and maximum rough opening height 2x4 header

2x6 header

70 inch

68 inch

71 ½ inch

69 ½ inch

82 inch

80 inch

83 ½ inch

81 ½ inch

7ft wall height (73 ½ inch king stud) Jack stud Rough opening height (maximum) 8ft wall height (85 ½ inch king stud) Jack stud Rough opening height (maximum)

Cripple studs See Figure A: With an 8ft wall height you might not want the maximum door hight. If you make the door shorter than maximum you will need to add some cripple studs between the header and top plate to transfer the load to the header and to give you something to nail into.

Door location See Figure A: In this example I have started the door at a 24 inch center. Im making a rough door opening of 67.5 inches using a 70.5 inch header. This way both king studs will fall on a 24 inch center. But if you want the door wider or narrower just adjust your door header to the desired rough opening then add a stud or vertical door upright where a 24 inch center falls. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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The 24 in center marks represent where you need a stud or a door upright. The 48 in center marks represent where the siding joins. You don't want a cut line (jack stud) to fall where the siding joins because there will be many nails at this location which will ruin your router bit and the joint will have no strength. The cure is to either move the door a few inches one way or another, or to begin the wall with a half piece of siding which will change the joint locations by 24 inches.

Inner door frame See Figure B: The vertical uprights will be the length of the jack stud less 3 ½ inches (½ inch spacer above the upper cross piece). The horizontal cross pieces will be the rough opening width minus 1 ½ inches (3 spacers), then cut in half.

Temporary spacers See Figure B: You will only need horizontal spacers at the top of the door under the header because you will be cutting the bottom plate out which will give the bottom of the door clearance. So you can leave the bottom spacers out. Put spacers between the vertical uprights and the jack studs, and between the 2 center center vertical uprights.

Active/passive door See Figure B: One door will be the primary active door and the other door will be passive and fixed in place until you open it. Put the middle cutline on the passive door upright and add a second upright beside it to give you something to nail the passive door trim into. If you make your inner door frames the same size the trim will make the active door appear wider by about ½ inch because the cut line will be off center. If you want to make the doors appear exactly the same you will need to make the active door frame ¼ inch more narrow and the passive door frame ¼ inch wider. But I never worry about this as no one ever notices the difference. If you want to make the active door wide and the passive door narrow so that you will not have to open the passive door very often you can adjust the inner door frames to give any width combination you want.

Locate your cut lines See Figure E: Before you put the siding on locate and record the 3 vertical cut line which will be ½ inch outside the door frame, and the horizontal cut line ½ inch above the bottom of the door header.

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Door trim Attach the door trim on the active door first, then the passive door. Then do the outer door trim. Figure C shows the finished trim and Figure D shows a the spacing of the trim in reference to the underlying inner door frame.

Step 7: Cut the doors out Cut the door out where the hinges go first, attach the hinges then cut across the top, then up the center and open the doors.

Install 3 latches Put two latch on the inside the passive door. One at the top and one at the bottom to keep the passive door locked in place till you need it. Then put an outside latch on the active door.

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Double Door Figure A: Showing inner door upright and cripple stud spacing

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Double Door Figure B: Showing temporary spacers and extra passive door upright

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Double Door Figure C: Final door trim

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Double Door Figure D: Showing trim spacing relative to the underlying inner

door frame Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Double Door Figure E: Showing cut lines

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Option F: 4/12 and 5/12 roof pitch The pitch used through out the examples in these plans is a 3/12 pitch. You can change the pitch to either 4/12 or 5/12 pitch. Use this table for •

The angle on the trusses, sidewall studs and trim pieces

•

The overall length of the truss pieces.

But... •

The length of the collar beams remains the same

•

The length of the sidewall studs remains the same Truss and sidewall angle

Truss component length

Pitch

Cut Angle

8 wide

10 wide

12 wide

3/12 pitch

14

49 1/2

62

74

4/12 pitch

18

50 3/4

63 1/2

76

5/12 pitch

22

52

65

78

See Figure 0: Cut angle template Sidewall studs To increase the pitch change the cut angle on the sidewall studs but keep the length measurement the same. The steeper the angle the more attention you will have to pay to the proper placement of the top plate so that it's in line with the siding. See Figure 4c: Sidewall stud spacer details

Truss pieces Use the matching angle on the truss pieces and cut to length. Use the original dimensions for the collar beam.

Gable end siding If you are building with 7ft sidewalls you will have to splice the gable end siding at the top because your shed will be taller with a steeper pitch. Just nail the siding to the truss and don't worry about nailing the joint its self. There is plenty of strength in the truss to carry the load. You might want to use a piece of "z" flashing in the joint to make it waterproof. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Trim Use the matching cut angle for your trim pieces

Materials usage It will not require any additional dimensional lumber to increase the roof pitch. But it will require a little more siding to cover the top of the gable ends but you can probably get that out of the existing cut off scraps. Since it will increase the perimeter and surface area of the roof you might need more metal drip edge. Increasing the pitch will increase the amount of felt paper, shingles and nails you need.

Extra Caution The higher the roof pitch the greater the possibility of losing your balance and stepping off or falling off the roof and hurting yourself. Roofing is one of the most dangerous occupations and this part of building your shed is also the most dangerous. So use extra caution here. Especially if you decide to build with a 5/12 pitch.

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Option G: Build A Shed Ramp A ramp makes it easy to get big things into and out of your shed, as well as wheeled items like a lawnmower or a hand cart. Or even a motorcycle? Plus it's safer because you are less likely to trip over the edge of the floor.

Ramps can be temporary or permanent. But permanent is more useful because it's always there when you need it.

This information is about building a permanent ramp 4ft long and the width of your door opening. If you need something longer you can change the dimensions accordingly.

Pressure treated wood All wood should be pressure treated because it will be in contact with the ground. Pressure treated wood is chemically treated to be resistant to rotting and termites. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Materials list A 4ft square ramp is very materials efficient. You will need •

1) 4x4 sheet pressure treated 3/4 inch plywood

•

3) 2x4x8 pressure treated

If you want a larger ramp you will need... •

A ledger and an end board the width of the door

•

Enough ramp joists @ 16 inch O.C.

•

A sheet of plywood large enough to cover the ramp

You will also need a handful of 3 or 3 1/2 inch deck screws and some 2 inch deck screws. You want to use deck screws because they are coated to resist the elements.

Trim door, 2 options You will need to trim the bottom of the door so it will close when the ramp is in place. You have 2 choices here. You can cut it... •

Flush with the floor

•

1/2 inch long which will give you a small reveal

A small reveal will let your door seal against the elements but will also make a small bump at the top of the ramp.

Ledger Measure and cut a 2x4 ledger the width of the door. You don't need to make the ramp the full width of the door but that's usually best. Cut the end board the same length. Temporarily attach this ledger with 2 screws about 1 1/4 inches below floor level, or the final level of the ramp in case you want a reveal.

First joist Cut a single ramp joist about 45 inches long. This is longer than necessary as the final length will depend on the height of the ramp and will be determined by trial and error. Hold the joist approximately in place and mark where it touches the ground. Dig out till the top edge is about flush with ground level. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Joist angle Hold the top end of the joist up to the outside edge of the ledger and mark the angle on the side of the joist. Cut this angle.

Joist length Lay the plywood in place, top edge on the ledger and bottom edge on the ground. Hold the joist in place up to the bottom of the plywood and measure back 1 1/2 inches from the bottom edge of the plywood to allow for the end 2x4 and mark the joist length. This is the final length. Cut the other (3) joists to match this angle and length.

Assemble frame Remove the ledger and mark it so the 4 joists are spaced about evenly. Transfer these layout marks to the end board and also to the top and bottom edges of the plywood. Assemble this frame with 2 long deck screws at the end of each joist.

Install frame Excavate the lower end of the ramp so it rests about ground level. Temporarily attach this frame with 2 screws and lay the plywood in place to check for proper height. Remove the plywood and permanently attach the ledger with a long screw on each side of the joists into the shed floor joist. Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Back fill the lower end of the frame.

Install sheeting Lay the sheeting in place and attach with deck screws every 6 to 8 inches.

Paint? This ramp will be exposed to the weather for a long time so you might want to paint it to extend it's life and keep it looking fresh.

Alternatives There are many ways to build a shed ramp. One alternative is to skip the ledger and end board and attach the ramp joists directly to the floor joist with metal hangers. This will save you a little time and excavation effort. The down side is that the top and bottom edge of the sheeting will not be fully supported. But it will still work just fine.

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Other Here are a few pictures you can use if you need something to submit to your homeowners association.

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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More plans from CheapSheds.com • Single slope lean to style shed plans with porch in 45 sizes • Deluxe gable roof shed plans with loft in 31 sizes • Tall barn style shed plans with loft in 31 sizes • Gable roof shed plans in 21 sizes • Compact vertical bike shed plan • How To Build a 1-2-3 Car Garage, Garage Plans • How To Start A Business e-Book All plans and e-books are in PDF format Available by instant download from CheapSheds.com Single Slope Lean To Style Shed Plans With Porch • • • • • • • •

Cost: $11.95 45 Sizes from 4x4 to 12x20 150 + Pages of detailed instructions, figures and tables Roof line: Single slope lean to Wall height: 5ft – 10 ft Includes instructions for a porch Construction: Single top and bottom plates double corner studs Spacing: floor 16” O.C., walls 16” O.C.

Available on my website here...

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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Deluxe Style Shed Plans With Loft • • • • • • • • •

Cost: $9.95 31 Sizes from 8x4 to 16x32 100 + Pages of detailed instructions, figures and tables Roof line: Barn style Gable 2 roof pitch options, 6/12 & 12/12 Wall height: 8ft tall Includes instructions for a loft Construction: Double top plates and corner studs Spacing: floor 12” O.C., walls 16” O.C.

Available on my website here...

Tall Barn Style Shed Plans With Overhang and Loft • • • • • • • •

Cost: $9.97 31 Sizes from 8x4 to 16x32 100 + Pages of detailed instructions, figures and tables Roof line: Barn style Gambrel Wall height: 8ft tall Includes instructions for a loft Construction: Double top plates and corner studs Spacing: floor 12” O.C., walls 16” O.C.

Available on my website here...

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

Copyright (c) 2014 By CheapSheds.com (v2014.11.04)

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Gable Roof Shed Plans, 21 sizes • • • • • •

Cost: $7.95 21 Sizes from 8x4 to 12x20 80 + Pages of detailed instructions, figures and tables Roof line: Gable Roof pitch: 3/12 with options of 4/12 and 5/12 Overhang: 3 1/2 inch or 5 1/2 inch option

Available on my website here...

Bike Shed Or Small Garden Shed Plans

• • •

•

• •

Cost: $5.94 Compact with a foot print under 4 ft square and under 7ft tall Portable enough to transport in the back of a pickup truck and move across the yard with a hand truck Can be made modular so you can take it apart and move it in 6 big pieces if necessary Holds 2 bicycles upright Great for keeping garden tools out of sight

Available on my website here..

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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How To Build A 1-2-3 Car Garage, Garage Plans

• • • • •

Cost: From $3.97 Sizes from 14x20 to 30x40 or larger PDF scans of plans .dwf plans Framing instructions, figures and dimensions

Available on my website here..

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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How To Start A Business e-Book • •

• • •

Cost: $2.99 Based on my experiences starting and running my shed business for 20 years 60 pages 5 chapters Available in PDF format or in kindle format from amazon.com

Available on my website here..

Gable Roof Shed Plans – 21 Sizes

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