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F L OURWAT E RS AL TYE AS T

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FLOUR WATER SALT YEAST The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza

KEN FORKISH PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALAN WEINER

TEN SPEED PRESS Berkeley

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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION — 1

PART 1: THE PRINCIPLES OF ARTISAN BREAD

PART 3: LEVAIN BREAD RECIPES

1: THE BACKSTORY — 11

7: UNDERSTANDING LEVAIN — 121

2: EIGHT DETAILS FOR GREAT BREAD AND PIZZA — 25

8: LEVAIN METHOD — 129

3: EQUIPMENT AND INGREDIENTS — 45 Essay: Where Does Our Flour Come From? — 54

9: HYBRID LEAVENING DOUGHS — 139 Essay: The 3-Kilo Boule — 162

10: PURE LEVAIN DOUGHS — 167 11: ADVANCED LEVAIN DOUGHS — 181 Essay: Making a Bread (or Pizza) Dough You Can Call Your Own — 190

PART 2: BASIC BREAD RECIPES 4: BASIC BREAD METHOD — 61 5: STRAIGHT DOUGHS — 79 6: DOUGHS MADE WITH PRE-FERMENTS — 97 Essay: The Early Morning Bread Baker’s Routine — 112

PART 4: PIZZA RECIPES 12: PIZZA AND FOCACCIA METHOD — 201 13: PIZZA DOUGHS — 217 14: PIZZA AND FOCACCIA — 229

LAGNIAPPE — 258 METRIC CONVERSION CHARTS — 259 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS — 260 INDEX — 261

iv — FLOUR WATER SALT YEAST

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THE SATURDAY WHITE BREAD This recipe is designed for someone who wants to make good, crusty loaves of white bread from start to finish in one day. Mix the dough first thing in the morning, shape it into two loaves about five hours later, and then bake in the late afternoon in time for dinner. It’s also a good first recipe to try from this book to help you get familiar with my dough handling techniques, which are the same for all the recipes in this book. Here you get the taste-good benefits of a medium-length fermentation, resulting in a versatile, delicious bread that’s great as a dinner bread and also works well for sandwiches and toast. Sometimes I like to make this bread with 10 percent whole wheat flour for the round, earthy flavors it adds. If you want to do that, simply make this recipe with 900 grams of white flour and 100 grams of whole wheat flour. You can bake one or two loaves from this recipe. If you bake just one loaf, you can divide the remaining dough into two or three dough balls to make iron-skillet focaccia or pizza; refrigerate the dough balls and use them any time during the next two or three days. I love focaccia with olive oil, salt, pepper, and maybe a sprinkling of herbs, cut into small pieces to share with friends before dinner, or just for snacks. (See chapter 14 for specific focaccia and pizza recipes, and page 215 for pointers on using bread doughs for focaccia.) THIS RECIPE MAKES 2 LOAVES, EACH ABOUT 1½ POUNDS, AND IS SUITABLE FOR PIZZA OR FOCACCIA. BULK FERMENTATION: PROOF TIME:

About 5 hours

About 1¼ hours

SAMPLE SCHEDULE:

Begin at 9:30 a.m., finish mixing at 10 a.m., shape into loaves at 3 p.m., and bake at 4:15 p.m.

The bread will come out of the oven just after 5 p.m. INGREDIENT

QUANTIT Y

BAKER’S PERCENTAGE

White flour

1,000 g

7¾ cups

100%

Water

720 g, 90ºF to 95ºF (32ºC to 35ºC)

3¹⁄ 8 cups

72%

Fine sea salt

21 g

1 tbsp + 1 scant tsp

2.1%

Instant dried yeast

4g

1 tsp

0.4%

CONTINUED>>

STRAIGHT DOUGHS — 81

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STRAIGHT DOUGHS — 83

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