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DOLL IDA I CAROcreated Ida want to enjoy a window ow shopping in the city. For the city-tou our she has made up herself, casual and com mfortable. Moreover, she will meet her er friend for a cup of coffee.

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A DOLL IDA CAROCREATED INTRODUCTION Thank you for purchasing my Doll IDA crochet pattern! The pattern is appropriate for those ose with intermediate level crochet skills and a general underst rstanding of basic stitches and standard crochet terms. Aside ide from a couple of complicated crochet techniques, the indivi ividual parts of the doll are quite simple and straightforward. Note that you may create a smaller or larger doll with this pattern by using finer or bulkier ier weight yarn. When choosing the yarn, you should prefer using c cotton for the doll itself (i.e., head, body, legs and arms) becaus use the fabric would be quite stiff and thick. Crochet fabric mad ade of cotton yarn has almost no stretch and will not expand to the shape of the stuffing inside. For the cuff and the scarf, I wanted wa a more stretchy fabric with excellent drape. So for this pa arts of the doll, I used soft, springy yarn, such as wool or acrylic.

PATTERN CONTENTS Introduction Page 1 What You Will Need Page 2 Finished Size Page 2 Gauge Page 3

Abbreviations Page 3 Special Crochet Techniques Page 4 Embroidery Page 7 Some Notes on Stuffing Page 7 Instructions Page 7

DOLL IDA | Copyri yright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst,, CAROcreated C

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED YARN (Yarn consumption: You will need less than 1 skein or leftovers of each yarn color. • Cotton yarn of different producers (sport weight yarn - 5 ply): CATANIA - Schachenmayr, BASIC COTTON - Pro Lana and CAMILLA - Woll Butt (100% Cotton, 1.78 ounces = 137 yards/50 grams = 125 meters), 12 different colors. CATANIA: Color A: 263 soft apricot Color D: 209 mandarin Color E: 246 light pink Color M: 251 magenta Color G: 254 taupe Color K: 162 chocolate

BASIC COTTON: Color B: 46 pink Color C: 02 creme Color N: 72 dark green

CAMILLA: Color F: 35438 light green Color H: 35947 caramel Color P: 35817 yellow

• ALPACA from Drops (sport weight yarn - 5 ply): (100% Alpaca, 1.76 ounces = 183 yards/50 grams = 167 meters), 1 color. Color L: 3770 dark pink OTHER MATERIALS • • • • • • •

Fiberfill 2 black safety eyes, Ø 6 mm Cardboard for the soles Strong thread resistant (dental floss) for the thread jointing 5 decorative buttons (for the coat and the hat) Sewing thread to sew on the wig, or glue to glue on the wig optional: 8 tiny eyelets for the boots

TOOLS • • • • • • • •

Hook size US 1½ (2.5 mm), US 2½ (3.0 mm) and US 4 (3.5 mm) Tapestry needles (usual and extra long) Sewing needle Stitch marker Scissor Pins optional: eyelet plies optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify the filling

FINISHED SIZE My doll measures appr. 12 1/4” or 31 cm.

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

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GAUGE Gauge for the doll: 7 sc x 8 rds to 1 inch (hook size US 1½ or 2.5 mm) Gauge for the dress: 6 sc x 7 rds to 1 inch (hook size US 2½ or 3.0 mm) Gauge for the coat: 6 sc x 7 rds to 1 inch (hook size US 2½ or 3.5 mm)

ABBREVIATIONS This pattern uses American Standard Abbreviations. rd(s)

rounds(s)

CL6

row(s)

row(s)

*…*

*repeat directions following* as many times as indicated

st(s)

stiches(es)

[…]

work directions inside of square brackets into stitch as indicated

slst

slip stitch

sk

skip

ch

chain

sp

space

sc

single crochet

BL(O)

back loop (only)

inc

work 2 single crochet in one stitch

FL(O)

front loop (only)

s-sc

knotless standing sc

BB(O)

back bump or bottom loop (only)

r-sc

reverse single crochet

sc2tog

decrease crochet

inv-sc2tog

invisible decrease over 2 single crochet

dc

double crochet

over

2

six double crochet cluster stitch

single

NJ

needle join

yo

yarn over

RS

right side

WS

wrong side

Stitch count is given in each row/round so you can check your work. slst

Insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull through both lps on hook

sc

Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook

s-sc

Knotless standing single Techniques" on page 6.

r-sc

It is a single crochet worked backwards. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=179exZEyXqo).

crochet.

See

"Special

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

Crochet

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sc2tog

Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp, insert hook in next st, yo, pull through lp, yo, pull through all three lps on hook.

inv-sc2tog

insert hook into FLO of the indicated st and into FLO of next st, yo, pull through both front lps, yo, pull through both lps on hook.

dc

Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* crochet twice

CL6

*(Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp, yo, pull through 2 lps)* crochet 6 times, yo, pull through all 7 lps on hook

fasten off

Cut the yarn, leaving about a 4″ (10 cm) tail, and pull this tail all the way through the top of the last stitch made.

SPECIAL CROCHET TECHNIQUES Crochet in Spiral Rounds

When you crochet spiral rounds, you do not have to turn your work and you do not join the round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, and move the marker up each time you start a new round.

Crochet in (Joined) Rounds

When you crochet rounds, you have to join each round with a slst. Work the slst into the first st of the round. The beginning chain does not count as a stitch unless specified in the text.

Crochet in Turned (Joined) Rounds

When you crochet turning rounds, you have to join with a slst, and then turn the work. Work the slst into the first st of the round. Make your turning chain and start back across the round. The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless specified in the text.

Crochet in Rows

When you crochet in rows, you need to turn you work, make your turning chain, and start back across the row. The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless specified in the text.

Slip Stitch Crochet

Slip Stitch Crochet is a way of making fabric using only crochet slip stitches. Slip stitching can produce fabric that is thin and stretchy, provided the right yarn was used (see "Introduction", page 1). If you are new to slip stitch crochet you will find more information on this website: http://new.slipstitchcrochet.com/ When counting slip-stitched rows, it is easier to count them by “ridges” they form, with each “ridge” consisting of two slipstitched rows.

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

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Needle Join (NJ)

1) Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needl 1 dle 2 Pull the yarn through under the ‘V” of the first st of the previous 2) round 3 Insert the needle into the center of th 3) the last stitch at the end of the last round 4 Weave in the end and clip it close 4) ose to the surface of the crocheted piece. TThe finishing off method is described in detail d in the crochet help v videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch tch?v=Pj2QAsvEkeM

Finishing an Open Piece that is Crocheted in a Spiral

When you finish working an open W p piece that was crocheted in a spiral y you have a steep ramp on the r round ends, so you must join the r round ends. This will help to minimize t the jog in height. Work the join as f follows: 1 slst into next st, fasten off, s skip 1 st, 1 NJ into next st (photo 1)

Closing Up a Piece of Circular Crochet

When you finish working a piece of circu W rcular crochet that forms a 3 3-D object, you must close the smallll hole h that remains. This is n normally completed after stuffing the pie iece. 1 Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn end 1) nd. Draw the end through the final loop on the hook and thread th it onto a tapestry needle. 2 Insert the needle under the front loo 2) oop of each stitch around the opening, so the needle goes from m the centre of the hole to the outside. 3 Pull the tail tight to close the hole. To weave in the loose end 3) insert the needle through the mid iddle of the ring you’ve created and push it through the crochet cro piece. Cut off the end. TThis closing up method is described in d detail in the crochet help v video: http://www.planetjune.com om/blog/ultimate-finish-fora amigurumi-video/

DOLL IDA | Copyri yright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst,, C CAROcreated

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Changing Colors in (Joined) Rounds

This technique I was using to crochet the purse. When you are ready to add a new color to your crochet piece, complete your round as usual with a slst in first stitch (photo 2). Then enlarge the loop and bring the skein through the loop (photo 3). Firmly tighten the loop (photo 4). Fasten on the new color anywhwhere in the round (photo 5). If you continue with the old color, you have to start the next round not directly above the tighten loop (marked by an arrow in photo 6 and 7) but 1 stitch forward (photo 7). Grap the old yarn color and pull the yarn through the stitch.

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

(6)

(7)

Knotless Standing Single Crochet

How to make a knotless standing single crochet stitch is described in detail in the crochet website: http://mrsmicawber.blogspot.de/2012/09/knotless-standingsingle-crochet.html

Uncounted Round of Slip Stitches

Sometimes, before or after a color change, I work an uncounted round of slip stitches as indicated in the instructions. Do not work back into the slip stitches. Instead, work the next round into the loops of the top of the round below. This smoothes out the color change. Be careful to keep your stitch count correct.

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

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EMBROIDERY Back stitches

How to embroider a back stitch is described in detail in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZ_wVC84UmM

SOME NOTES ON STUFFING Stuffing soft toys and decorations can be tricky. No matter how good your shaping is on a crochet piece, the way in which you stuff will be more crucial in determining the finished shape. For all my dolls, I use a polyester stuffing. It`s a stuffing that easily fluffed back up to its original form after being squished and condensed. I find that putting in small amounts of stuffing and building up a shape works best for me rather than pushing in a large wad all at once. Even right before closing up a piece of circular crochet, I am sticking in more stuffing with a stuffing tool (i.e. chopstick or clamping scissor) so that it is filled up right to the end, in all corners. I prefer a more firmly stuffing for my dolls. Please realize that, so that clothes will match in size.

INSTRUCTIONS HEAD (MAKE 1) Work the head in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS)

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring

Rd 2

6 inc

(12 sts)

Rd 3

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times

(18 sts)

Rd 4

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times

(24 sts)

Rd 5

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times

(30 sts)

Rd 6

*2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times

(36 sts)

Rd 7

* 1 inc, 5 sc * crochet 6 times

(42 sts)

Rd 8

*5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times

(48 sts)

Rd 9

*3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc* crochet 6 times

(54 sts)

Rd 10 - 19

54 sc

(54 sts)

Rd 20

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc* crochet 6 times

(48 sts)

Rd 21

*5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times

(42 sts)

Rd 22

* 1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc* crochet 6 times

(36 sts)

Rd 23

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 6 times

(30 sts)

Rd 24

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times

(24 sts)

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

(6 sts)

8|Page Safety eyes Set the eyes in place first. Make sure the working yarn of the head is at the back. Put the eyes between round 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Poke the eye shafts through to the inside of the head and fasten with the washers that came with them. Stuff the head.

Rd 25

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times

(18 sts)

Rd 26

*7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice

(16 sts)

1 slst in next st, fasten off, leaving a 20”/50 cm tail, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (see photo 1, page 5). Stuff the remaining head with fiberfill. Do not weave in end, use it for later to sew the head onto the body.

BODY AND DRESS (MAKE 1) Work the body and the dress in spiral rounds. Starting at neck of the body, with hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS)

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 8 sc in magic ring

(8 sts)

Rd 2

8 inc

(16 sts)

Rd 3-10

16 sc

(16 sts)

1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. The slst mark the center back of the body. Stop working on the body. Next work the dress. Use the hook US 2½ or 3.0 mm and the yarn colors B, C, D, E and F. The dress is worked in stripes. After each stripe I have cut the yarn and attached the new yarn color for the next round in any st at center back. The beginning ch of a round and the ending slst together count as a stitch. I was using back stitches to embroider the dress. You can work these lines of back stitches around the dress as you go or after finnishing the dress. The information where to embroider the lines of back stitches you can find beneath the following table. Attach yarn color B in any st FLO at center back to start with the dress.

Rd 1 (RS)

With color B: (work FLO in the sts of rd 10) *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc), 1 inc* crochet 8 times

(24 sts)

Rd 2

24 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(24 sts)

Rd 3

With color C: *2 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch), 1 inc* crochet 8 times, fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st sc

(32 sts)

Rd 4

With color D: 32 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(32 sts)

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

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Rd 5

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(40 sts)

Rd 6

With color C: 40 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch), fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st sc

(40 sts)

Rd 7

With color B: *4 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc), 1 inc* crochet 8 times

(48 sts)

Rd 8

48 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(48 sts)

Rd 9

With color C: 48 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(48 sts)

Rd 10

*5 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times

(56 sts)

Rd 11

56 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(56 sts)

Rd 12

With color D: 56 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(56 sts)

Rd 13

56 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(56 sts)

Rd 14

With color B: *6 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch), 1 inc* crochet 8 times, 1 NJ in 1st sc

(64 sts)

Rd 15

With color E: 64 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(64 sts)

Rd 16

64 sc

(64 sts)

Rd 17

64 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(64 sts)

Rd 18

With color D: 64 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(64 sts)

Rd 19

*7 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(72 sts)

Rd 20

With color C: 72 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(72 sts)

Rd 21

72 sc

(72 sts)

Rd 22

72 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(72 sts)

Rd 23

With color F: 72 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(72 sts)

Rd 24

*8 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(80 sts)

Rd 25

With color B: 80 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(80 sts)

Rd 26

80 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(80 sts)

Rd 27

With color C: 80 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch), fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st sc

(80 sts)

Rd 28

With color D: 80 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(80 sts)

Rd 29

*9 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(88 sts)

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

10 | P a g e

Rd 30

With color C: 88 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch), fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st sc

(88 sts)

Rd 31

With color B: 88 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc)

(88 sts)

Rd 32

88 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(88 sts)

Rd 33

With color C: 88 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch), fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st sc

(88 sts)

Embroider the dress with back stitches (see "Embroidery", on page 7). Work around the rounds of the dress. Make 1 back stitch per crochet stitch. See photo 8 and 9.

With color B

between rd 10 (neck)/1 (dress), rd 16/17 and rd 22/23

With color C

between rd 17/18

With color E

between rd 7/8 and rd 31/32

With color F

between rd 6/7, rd 10/11, rd 20/21 and rd 30/31

(8)

(9)

Next continue with the body. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color E. Attach yarn in any st at center back. Work BLO in the sts of rd 10 of the body (neck). Start rd 11 with a knotless standing sc (see page 6).

Rd 11

(work in the sts of rd 10 BLO), (see photo 10) *3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (20 sts)

(20 sts)

Rd 12

20 sc

(20 sts)

Rd 13

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc

(24 sts)

Rd 14

24 sc

(24 sts)

Rd 15

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times

(30 sts)

Rd 16

30 sc

(30 sts)

Rd 17

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times, 3 sc

(36 sts)

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

11 | P a g e

Rd 18

36 sc

(36 sts)

Rd 19

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (see photo 11)

(42 sts)

Rd 20

42 sc

(42 sts)

Rd 21

5 sc, *1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc

(48 sts)

Rd 22-31

48 sc

(48 sts)

(10)neck

WS dress

(11)

BLO in sts of rd 10 (neck)

(12) sc of rd 31

slst

Work an uncounted rd of slst. Fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st slst. Now you are starting with the leggings of the doll. Use the yarn color M. Attach yarn in any st at center back. Start rd 32 with a knotless standing sc. Work in the sts of rd 31 (see photo 12). Work in spiral rounds.

Rd 32-40

48 sc

(48 sts)

Rd 41

*6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times

(42 sts)

Rd 42

2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, *5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 5 times, 3 sc

(36 sts)

Rd 43

*4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times

(30 sts)

Rd 44

1 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 3 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc

(24 sts)

Stuff the body. Stuff the neck and the upper body very firmly, so that the neck has enough stability to carry the head.

Rd 45

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times

(18 sts)

Rd 46

*1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times

(12 sts)

Rd 47

6 inv-sc2tog

(6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a 12”/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining body with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 5. Photo 13.

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

12 | P a g e

(13)

ARM (MAKE 2): Work the arms in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color A. Stuff the arm as you go.

Rd 1 (RS)

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring

Rd 2

6 inc

(12 sts)

Rd 3

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times

(18 sts)

Rd 4 - 6

18 sc

(18 sts)

Rd 7

16 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog

(17 sts)

Rd 8

7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 7 sc, 1 CL6

(16 sts)

Rd 9

14 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog

(15 sts)

Rd 10

1 inv-sc2tog, 13 sc

(14 sts)

Rd 11

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc

(13 sts)

Rd 12

11 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog

(12 sts)

Rd 13

4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc

(11 sts)

Rd 14

9 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog

(10 sts)

Rd 15 - 30

10 sc

(10 sts)

Rd 31

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice

(8 sts)

Rd 32

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet twice

(6 sts)

Stuff the remaining arm with fiberfill. Cut yarn, leaving a 12”/30 cm tail. Close the hole as described on page 5. Photo 14.

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

(6 sts)

(14)

13 | P a g e BOOT CUFFS (MAKE 2) (See " Slip Stitch Crochet" on page 4). The boot cuffs are worked flat from side to side (in rows) and then seamed. The cuffs are worked in slip stitches in back loops. Use the hook US 4 or 3.5 mm and the yarn color L. The turning chain does not count as st. Turn your work clockwise at the end of each row.

Row 1 (RS)

Leaving about 12" (30 cm)-long tail. 13 ch, (work all sts BLO) 1 slst in 2nd ch from hook, 1 slst each in all remaining sts, 1 ch, turn work

(12 sts)

Row 2-28

(Work all sts BLO) 12 slst, 1 ch, turn work

(12 sts)

Row 29

(Work all sts BLO) 12 slst

(12 sts)

Fasten off (photo 15). (Check your row count: you should have 14 complete “ridges” on the right side.) Seaming Fold piece in half lengthwise with WS out (RS facing each other) and match up sides. Using starting tail, insert hook through 1st base chain (photo 16 and 17) and last st BLO of row 29 (photo 18), yo and pull through both lps on hook. Continue working slst in each loop of base chain simultaneously joining it to opposite side of cuff by picking up BL of remaining sts of row 29 (photo 19). When picking up loops of base chain, make sure to insert hook through holes marked with red dots in photo16. Fasten off. Turn cuff RS out, your seam should not be visible.

(15)

(17)

(16)

RS 1st base chain (18)

(19)

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

14 | P a g e BOOT AND LEG (MAKE 2) Work the boots both in spiral rounds and rows and the legs in spiral rounds. Work the boots first. Starting at soles, with hook US 2½ or 3.0 mm. Make 2 soles for each boot both in yarn color G. Double Sole

1st sole: Do rd 1-7. Fasten off.

Rd 1 (RS)

(work all sc in BB of the chains) 6 ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, [3 sc], bottom side of chain: 3 sc, 1 inc

(12 sts)

Rd 2

1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc

(18 sts)

Rd 3

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc

(24 sts)

Rd 4

1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc

(32 sts)

Rd 5

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet twice, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, 1 sc, 1 inc

(42 sts)

Rd 6

42 sc

(42 sts)

Rd 7

42 slst, fasten off, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

(42 sts)

Weave in all loose ends. When you start filling the legs (later!) the soles bulge out and so the doll is not able to stand alone. Try using cardboard in the bottom of the sole, so that the doll will stand upright more easily. Cut two pieces of cardboard in size of the sole (rd 1-6), (photo 20 and 21). Put aside for later.

(20)

(21)

2nd sole: Do rd 1-6. Do not fasten off. Repeat rd 1-6 of the 1st sole. Sandwich both soles together, right sides out. Match their sts up the best you can. The 2nd sole is on top. Using the yarn tail of 2nd sole, pull a loop through next st, going through the rounds of both soles together by inserting the hook through both loops of the sts of rd 6 of the 2nd sole and through the FL of the sts of rd 6 of the 1st sole (see photo 22). Slst around the edge, stitching the soles together. Fasten off. 1 NJ in 2nd slst. You should have 42 slst total when finished. Weave in ends.

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

15 | P a g e Upper Boot Switch to hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm. Use color H. Now you have to work in the opposite direction of the previous round. With 2nd sole on top attach yarn at center heel of sole. 1 sc each in all slip stitches BLO (start rd 1 with a knotless standing sc), (see photo 23 and 24).

(22)

sole 2

(23)

(24) BLO

sole 1

Rd 1 (VS)

(work BLO in the slst that you have worked to join both soles) 42 sc

(42 sts)

Rd 2-4

42 sc

(42 sts)

Rd 5

16 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc, 1 invsc2tog, 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 12 sc

(38 sts)

Rd 6

12 sc BLO, *1 sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, *1 sc, 1 sc2tog* crochet 3 times, 8 sc BLO

(32 sts)

Rd 7

11 sc, 7 inv-sc2tog, 7 sc

(25 sts)

Rd 8

14 sc, (mark the BL of the 11th sc of these 14 sc), 1 invsc2tog, 4 sc (the remaining sts of rd 7 will be untreated)

(19 sts)

Do not cut yarn. Continue with the 1st row of the boot tongue. Boot Tongue Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as st.

Row 1(WS)

1 ch (does not count as st), turn work, 9 sc BLO in the sts of rd 8 of the upper boot (do not remove marker), 1 ch, turn work (see photo 25)

(9 sts)

Row 2-6

9 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(9 sts)

Row 7

sk 1 st, 6 sc, sk 1 st, 1 sc

(7 sts)

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. The boot should look like shown in photo 26.

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16 | P a g e

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work tongue in these 9 sts

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(27)

1st FL

work in FLO of the sts of rd 5 Bootleg Next work the bootleg. Using hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and attach yarn color H in the 1st FL of the st of rd 5 of the upper boot (see photo 27). Start with a knotless standing sc. Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as stitch.

Row 1(RS) - 2

20 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(20 sts)

Row 3

1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn work

(22 sts)

Row 4-6

22 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(22 sts)

Row 7

sk 1 st, 3 sc, 14 sc BLO, 2 sc, sk 1 st, 1 sc

(20 sts)

Fasten off and work a final row around the bootleg. Attach yarn color H in the FL of the st of rd 5 where you worked the knotless standing sc of row 1 of the bootleg, 1 ch and work the final row:

Final Row (RS)

1 sc each sidewise in the edge stitches of row 1- 6 of the bootleg, [3 sc] in the 1st st of row 7, 1 sc each in next 18 sts of row 7, [3 sc] in last st of row 7, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge stitches of row 6-1 of the bootleg, fasten off, 1 NJ in the last FL of rd 5.

(36 sts)

Work a final row around the boot tongue. Using hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color H. Attach yarn in the FL of the st of rd 8 of the upper boot where you worked the last sc of row 1 of the boot tongue. 1 ch and work the final row:

Final Row (RS)

1 sc each sidewise in the edge stitches of row 1- 6 of the boot tongue, [2 sc] in the last st of row 7, 1 sc each in next 5 sts of row 7, [2 sc] in 1st st of row 7, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge stitches of row 6-1 of the boot tongue, fasten off, 1 NJ in the FL of the st of rd 8 of the upper boot where you have started with the boot tongue

Weave in all loose ends.

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(21 sts)

17 | P a g e Next work the padding at the back of the bootleg. Using hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and attach yarn color K in the 1st FL of the st of row 6 of the bootleg (see photo 28). Start with a knotless standing sc. Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as stitch. The sts of row 3 will be joining the padding with the bootleg. Match their sts up.

Row 1 (RS)

14 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(14 sts)

Row 2

14 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(14 sts)

Row 3

(work both in the sts of row 2 and in the sts of row 7 of the bootleg) sk 1 st, 11 sc, sk 1 st (but do not sk 1 st on row 7 of the bootleg), 1 sc

(12 sts)

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. The boot should look like shown in photo 29. Put the cardboard inside the sole of the boot.

(28)

padding

bootleg

(29)

(30)

tongue

upper boot double sole fasten on Leg Start with the leg. Use yarn color M and hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm. Work the 1st round of the leg in the st of rd 7/8 of the upper boot. Attach yarn in the BL of the marked st of rd 8 of the upper boot (see photo 30). Start rd 1 of the leg with a knotless standing sc.

Rd 1 (RS)

4 sc BLO, 1 sc2tog BLO, 3 sc BLO, (work in both loops for the remaining sts of rd 7/8 of the upper boot): 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, *4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice

(20 sts)

Rd 2-3

20 sc

(20 sts)

Rd 4

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times

(16 sts)

Rd 5-10

16 sc

(16 sts)

Stuff the boot with fiberfill. Stuff the leg as you go.

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18 | P a g e

Rd 11-28

16 sc

(16 sts)

Rd 29

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times

(12 sts)

Rd 30

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times

(8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a 12”/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining leg with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 5.

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(32)

Pull the boot cuffs over the legs. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the without yarn color G. Work approx. 90 chains (11 3/4" or 30 cm) and thread the shoelace. Tie the ends and make a loop. Optional: Place tiny eyelets onto the boot. Use an eyelet plies to place them. See photo 31 and 32.

with eyelets

COAT (MAKE 1) The coat consist of the body part and the two sleeves. For all parts of the coat use the hook US 4 or 3.5 mm and the yarn color N. Work the sleeves in turned (joined) rounds. Join each round with a slst that is worked in first sc of the round. Then turn the work. The turning chain does not count as a stitch. The body part of the coat is worked in rows. The turning chain does not count as a stitch. Sleeves (make 2) Depending on the tightness in your crocheting and the way you are stuffing, maybe you have to use a bigger hook size or add 1 st extra in row 5. Later you have to pull the sleeve over the arm. The arm count 10 sts in the round. The sleeve counts 11 sts in the round. Crochet the first rounds of the sleeve and then pull it over the arm. If it is too tight, add 1 aditional st in rd 5 or use a bigger hook size.

Rd 1 (RS)

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(6 sts)

Rd 2

*2 sc, 1 inc* crochet twice, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(8 sts)

Rd 3

1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(10 sts)

Rd 4

5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(11 sts)

Rd 5-18

11 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(11 sts)

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19 | P a g e

Rd 19

1 inc, 10 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(12 sts)

Rd 20

3 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(13 sts)

Rd 21

3 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(14 sts)

Rd 22

6 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(15 sts)

Rd 23

1 inc, 14 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(16 sts)

Rd 24

10 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(17 sts)

Rd 25

17 slst, fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st slst

(17 sts)

Weave in all loose ends. How to pull the sleeve over the arm? See photo 33 to 35.

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(34)

(35)

Body of the coat (make 1) Work the body of the coat in rows. Starting at neckline. Work all sts of row 1 in BB of the chains. The turning chain does not count as st.

Row 1 (RS)

23 ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 21 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(22 sts)

Row 2

22 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(22 sts)

Row 3

1 sc, 1 inc, * 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(30 sts)

Row 4

30 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(30 sts)

Row 5

3 sc, * 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times, 3 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(36 sts)

Row 6

36 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(36 sts)

Row 7

1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, * 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(44 sts)

Row 8-9

44 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(44 sts)

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20 | P a g e

Row 10

4 sc, * 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc* crochet 6 times, 4 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(50 sts)

Row 11-12

50 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(50 sts)

Row 13

1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, * 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc* crochet 6 times, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(58 sts)

Row 14-15

58 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(58 sts)

Row 16

1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, * 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc* crochet 6 times, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(66 sts)

Row 17-28

66 sc, fasten off

(66 sts)

Next work the collar of the coat. The RS of the body`s coat is facing you. Work the 1st row of the collar in the beginning 22 ch of the body`s coat. Start row 1 of the collar with a knotless standing sc.

Row 1 (RS)

22 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(22 sts)

Row 2

22 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(22 sts)

Row 3

1 sc, 1 inc, * 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(30 sts)

Row 4

30 sc, 1 ch, turn work

(30 sts)

Row 5

sk 1 st, 2 sc, * 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 sc, sk 1 st, 1 sc, fasten off

(34 sts)

Because later you will turn the collar inside out, its WS change to its RS. So you have to work seperately a final row for the colar and the body`s coat. Start with the final row around the body`s coat. The RS of the body`s coat is facing you. Attach the yarn in the gap between row 1 of the collar and row 1 of the body`s coat (see photo 36 and 37).

Final Row (body`s coat)

1 ch (count as st), 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 1-27, [1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc] in last st of row 28, 1 sc each in next 64 sts of row 28, [1 sc, 1 ch, 1sc] in first st of row 28, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 27-1, fasten off, 1 NJ in the gap between row 1 of the body`s coat and row 1 of the collar

gap between row 1 of body`s coat and row 1 of collar

Start with the final row around the collar. The WS of the body`s coat is facing you. Attach the yarn in the same gap where you have started for the final row of the body`s coat.

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(36)

21 | P a g e

Final Row (collar)

1 ch (count as st), 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 1-4, 1 sc each in all sts of row 5, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 1-4, fasten off, 1 NJ in the same gap where you have worked the NJ of the body`s coat

Waeve in all loose ends. Be aware that you weave in all loose ends of the body`s coat on the WS and all loose ends of the collar on the RS.

(37)

WIG (MAKE 1) Start with the basis of the wig. Work rd 1-4 of the basis in spiral rounds. Use hook US 2½ or 3.0 mm and yarn color P. Work all sts of rd 1-4 BLO.

Rd 1 (RS)

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring

Rd 2

6 inc

(12 sts)

Rd 3

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times

(18 sts)

Rd 4

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times

(24 sts)

(6 sts)

Next work the strands of hair. Follow the spiral of rd 1-4 of the basis backwards and crochet the hair strands in the FLO of these sts. So you have to work in opposite direction (it`s like you would turn the work, see photo 38 and 39). Work in the next 24 sts of rd 4 of the basis as follows (= 24 hair strands): *41 ch, 1 inc in 2nd ch from hook, *1 sc, 1 inc* in next 12-14 ch, 1 sc each in all remaining ch, 1 slst in next st of rd 4 of the basis* crochet 24 times, sk next 18 sts (=sk the whole rd 3 of the basis), and work the next 12 hair strands in the 12 sts (FL) of rd 2 of the basis (the RS of the basis is facing you, see photo 40): *44 ch, 1 inc in 2nd ch from hook, *1 sc, 1 inc* in next 12-14 ch, 1 sc each in all remaining ch, 1 slst in next st of rd 2 of the basis* crochet 12 times, work further 6 hair strands in rd 1 of the basis: *45 ch, 1 inc in 2nd ch from hook, *1 sc, 1 inc* in next 12-14 ch, 1 sc each in all remaining ch, 1 slst in next st of rd 1 of the basis* crochet 5 times, 45 ch, 1 inc in 2nd ch from hook, *1 sc, 1 inc* in next 12-14 ch, 1 sc each in all remaining ch, fasten off. Weave in all loose ends.

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22 | P a g e

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(38)

(40) crochet direction for the first 24 hair strands

WS ASSEMBLY OF THE DOLL Thread jointing: Use the photos 41 to 44 as a guide. Mark the points of the body where the legs will be jointed: between rd 37 and 38 of the body, 24 sts apart, lining up with the back of the dress. Mark the points of the legs where the joints will be: between rd 27 and 28, lining up with the front of the shoes.

(41)

crochet direction for the further hair strands

RS

(42)

Thread a 16”/40 cm thread of dental floss (or any other tear-resistant thread) onto a long tapestry needle. Push the needle right through the body from side to side, at the points where the legs will be jointed, leaving a long thread end on the first side. Make a small stitch at the inside of one leg, at the point where the joint will be. Run the needle back through the body so it reappears close to the starting end of the yarn. Make a small stitch at the inside of the second leg. For a stronger joint, I repeat the entire process once again. The two yarn ends should be close together. Pull them both tightly to cinch the legs into the side of the body (photo 42), and tie the two ends together securely. The knot should be hidden between the body and leg. Thread both ends onto the yarn needle, and lose them inside the body. Before starting the joint of the arms/sleeves put on the coat. By using pins fix the neckline of the coat on the body (see photo 43). Mark the points of the coat where the arms/sleeves will be jointed: between row 6 and 7 of the coat (the arm/sleeve and leg joints are directly beneath on the side of the body). Mark the points of the arms/sleeves where the joints will be: between rd 3 and 4 of the sleeve, lining up with the thumb.

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23 | P a g e Arm joints are made in exactly the same way, at shoulder height. But do not over-tighten the thread ends, because the arms should not be cinched into the side of the body.

(44)

Set the wig in place by inserting a pin both through the magic ring of the basis of the wig (43) and the magic ring of the head. Use the photos 45 to 50 as a guide. Use invisible thread to sew the individual hair strands onto the head. Or use glue to glue the hair strands onto the head. Start with the 24 hair stands you have worked in row 4 of the basis (bundle the other hair strands upwards). Sew the hair strands onto the head one by one along the line marked by pins (see photo 45-47). Then sew the remaining hair strands onto the head one by one along the line marked by pins (approx. same height as 1st line), (see photo 48-50).

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(46)

(47)

(48)

(49)

(50)

DOLL IDA | Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst, CAROcreated

24 | P a g e Optional: Cut a length of 1 m (just over 1 yard) of yarn color H and stitch the fringe (see photo 51).

(51)

Attach the head onto the body. Use your finger and poke a hole inside the filling of the head so you can pull the neck through the opening of the head. 3 to 4 rds of the neck are still visible. Sew the head onto the neck of the body. Use mattress stitches. A great video how to do mattress stitches on amigurumis you can find here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwnVv0BJOlE Blush your dolls cheeks by using Beeswax Rouge Crayon. Sew the buttons onto the coat.

HAT (MAKE 1) Work the hat in turned (joined) rounds. Join each round with a slst that is worked in first sc of the round. The turning chain does not count as a stitch. Use the hook US 4 or 3.5 mm and the yarn color N.

Rd 1 (RS)

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

Rd 2

6 inc, 1 ch, turn work

(12 sts)

Rd 3

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(18 sts)

Rd 4

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(24 sts)

Rd 5

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(30 sts)

Rd 6

*2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(36 sts)

Rd 7

36 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(36 sts)

Rd 8

* 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc * crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(42 sts)

Rd 9

*1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(48 sts)

Rd 10

*4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(54 sts)

Rd 11

54 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(54 sts)

Rd 12

*2 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(60 sts)

Rd 13

*1 inc, 9 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(66 sts)

Rd 14

*5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(72 sts)

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(6 sts)

25 | P a g e

Rd 15

72 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(72 sts)

Rd 16

*8 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(78 sts)

Rd 17-18

78 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(78 sts)

Rd 19

*11 sc, 1 sc2tog* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(72 sts)

Rd 20

72 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(72 sts)

Rd 21

*4 sc, 1 sc2tog, 6 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(66 sts)

Rd 22

66 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work

(66 sts)

Rd 23

*2 sc, 1 sc2tog, 7 sc* crochet 6 times, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, do not turn work

(60 sts)

Work the next 4 rounds in spiral rounds. Switch to a smaller hook size, so the hat will fit the head.

Rd 24

(Work all sts BLO) *3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (in BL)* crochet 12 times

(48 sts)

Rd 25-26

48 sc

(48 sts)

Rd 27

48 sc, 1 slst in next st, fasten off, 1 NJ in next st

(48 sts)

Weave in all loose ends. Sew the buttons onto the hat.

SCARF (MAKE 1) (See " Slip Stitch Crochet" on page 4). The scarf is worked flat from side to side (in rows). It is worked in slip stitches in back loops. Use the hook US 4 or 3.5 mm and the yarn color L. The turning chain does not count as st. Turn your work clockwise at the end of each row.

Row 1 (WS)

111 ch, (work all sts BLO) 1 slst in 2nd ch from hook, 109 slst, 1 ch, turn work

(110 sts)

Row 2-28

(Work all sts BLO) 110 slst, 1 ch, turn work

(110 sts)

Row 29

(Work all sts BLO) 110 slst

(110 sts)

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. Photo 52 and 53.

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26 | P a g e

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(53)

PURSE (MAKE 1) Work the purse in (joined) rounds. Make the color change as usual or use the technique I described on page 6 ("Changing Colors in (Joined) Rounds") for round 1-4. The beginning ch of each round and the ending slst together count as a stitch. Use the hook US 2 ½ or 3.0 mm and the yarn colors B, C, D and F. 1st circle

Rd 1 (RS)

With color D: magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc, 1 ch (count as 1st dc), 15 dc in magic ring, 1 slst in 1st dc

(16 sts)

Rd 2

Switch to color B: *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch) in gap between 2 dc of previous rd, 1 ch* crochet 16 times, 1 slst in 2nd ch

(32 sts - incl. ch)

Rd 3

Switch to color D: *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch) in ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 16 times, 1 slst in 2nd ch

(32 sts - incl. ch)

Rd 4

Switch to color B: *2 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a ch) in ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 16 times, 1 slst in 1st sc

(48 sts - incl. ch)

Rd 5

Switch to color D: [1 s-sc, 1 ch (count as 1st dc), 2 dc] in ch1-sp, * [3 dc] in next ch1-sp* crochet 15 times, fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st dc

(48 sts)

Rd 6

Switch to color C, fasten on in any dc of rd 5: 1 sc each in all dc, 1 sc in all gaps between two [3 dc] of previous rd, fasten off, 1 NJ in 1st dc

(64 sts)

2nd circle Repeat rd 1-6 of the 1st circle. Joining round, shoulder strap and final round Sandwich both circles together, right sides out. Match their sts up. Using yarn color F, pull a loop through any sc of rd 6, that you have worked in a gaps between two [3 dc] of rd 5 going through

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27 | P a g e the inner loops of the outer rounds of both circles (see photo 54). Work 1 ch and 1 sc in next 44 sts, stitching the circles together. 1 sc BLO each only in the next 19 sts of the circle in front, 1 slst in 1st (joining)-sc, (start with the shoulder strap) 90 ch, 1 slst in last (joining)-sc (see photo 55), 1 sc FLO each only in the next 19 sts of the circle in back (see photo 56), 1 slst BB each in all ch of the shoulder strap (see photo 57), 1 slst in next slst, 1 r-sc in all (joining)-sc, fasten off, 1 Nj in next st (see photo 58). Weave in all loose ends.

(54)

(55)

(57)

(56)

(58)

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28 | P a g e

Copyr yright 2017 - CAROcreated by Carola Herb erbst All rights reserved. All images and designs, including ng the name and description of this pattern, ar are the intellectual property of CAROcreated/Carola Herbst. t. The T pattern is for personal use only. The patte tern or parts of it may be not reproduced, redistributed, resold old, translated, published (online or printed), altered, alt shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline! You are welcome to sell finished dc creation using my pattern - in limited serie and an handmade by you. Please include a link or reference to my y shop www.etsy.com/de/shop/CAROcreated ted, if you will list it on internet.

DOLL IDA | Copyri yright 2017. All rights reserved. Carola Herbst,, C CAROcreated