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TEAYELS

THE

INTEEIOE

BY

OF

MUNGO

AFRICA

PAEK.

EDINBURGH: ADAM

AND

CHARLES

BLACK, MDCCCLVIII.

NOKTH

BRIDGE.

EDINBURGH. CLARK, AND BY PRINTED

R. R.

PKEFACE,

X

HE

followingJournal,

notices

made

at

is now difficulty, noble

and

offered

I

recommend

it is

received.

As

it but

degree,

the

and, I

trust, I

work, however,

thought

any

myself those

which

called

*

Earl

This of

of

both

upon,

has

enlarge,in

to

this

necessary,

by justice and

pose^ pur-

the Association in

vain.

I should

itself; and

nothing

out tale, with-

For

altogether

laboured

the

to

it

it claims

accepted by

for

African

the

plain unvarnished

offered, and

my

not

if I did

not

gratitude,to

;

The have sider con-

offer

follow. after my

return

from

Lord

consists

Bishop

of

of the

following

Landaff, Eight

Acting

Africa, the

Association,* taking notice

Committee

Moira,

Members

geography.

not

of

direction

African

speak

must

a

great

little commensurate

preliminary observations

Immediately of the

of

the

by

composition,

a

with

preserved

kind, except that

were

have

so

and

original minutes

and

the

It is

truth.

circle

services

my

from

Public

employers,

pretensions oLany some

the

to

regret that

I have

patronage

up

moment,

proper

honourable

Association.

to

the

drawn

of

noblemen

Hon.

Sir

the

time

and

Joseph

mittee Com-

it would

gentlemen Banks,

:"

Presi-

PREFACE.

VI

to require

prepare

an

in

account

it

as detail,

now

appears, and

the curiosity as possible, as speedily being desirous of gratifying, which

of the Members

many

pleasedto

were

determined that discoveries,

my

concerning

express

epitome,or abridgmentof my

an

from such materials and oral should be forthwith prepared travels,

communications

as

and also that Association,

the

should accompany

and a

A

it.

drawn accordingly

was

of

and furnish,

I could

the

engravedmap

an

up in two

distributed among

parts,by members

the

Society ;

own

the

map

of my

observations and

of my

of

route

of the Association,

the first, consisting

Illustrationsof second,of Geographical

a

use

travels, by Bryan Edwards,

my

by Major James Kennell,F. E. S. also to add

the

and improved, memoir, thus supplied

in abstract, of narrative,

Esq.;

printedfor

Major Rennell

route,constructed in

my

progress,

was

pleased

to conformity

freed from those sketches,

errors

which

Major'ssuperiorknowledge,and distinguished accuracy

enabled researches, geographical

my

in

him to discover and correct.

Availing on myself, therefore,

the present occasion, of assistance

like this, it is impossible that I

can

presentmyselfbefore the

without expressing how deeplyand gratefully public, sensible I am

of the honour

of those to

and

which advantage

gentlemen; for

Mr. Edwards

I derive from the labours

has

occasion offered, the as incorporate,

dent of the

Andrew Koyal Society,

kindlypermittedme

whole

of his narrative

Stewart, Esq.,F.K.S.,and Bryan Edwards,

Esq.,F.R.S. progress of

institutionof the Society Concerningthe original and itself, to the fullest information discovery, previous my expedition,

been already to be made.

givenin the various

which pubHcations

the

have Society

the has

caused

Vii

PKEFACE.

into differentpartsof my allows good will, the map

work

and

;

to embellish and

me

elucidate my

aided and

I should encouraged,

the world with that confidence of merits of my

could authorise

own

deliver this volume to

favourable

a

to

me

that expectations have apprehensive my

Travels with

before mentioned.

Thus

no

with equal Major Rennell,

which reception

formed

been

I not

claim,were

by

of discoveries to be unfolded which I have subscribers,

made, and of wonders

ignorant. There

be

to

related of which

is dangerthat those who feela

of this nature, finding less to astonish and than

theyhad promisedto

allow

me

themselves

prove

to my

entered

on

my

what I have endeavoured of my

the outset of my

console

myself

to

whose

I have

that

I auspices

executed the

they consider the

presentto them, to be,

port it,an honest and faithfulre-

from observations in their service, its termination. P.

M.

The

with applause

and the permanent

known.

Two

this

I shall feelings,

to make

journeyto

even

as

the honour

and proceedings

book

Painful

and duties of it to their satisfaction; now

in my

will not beforehand,

mission,shall allow that

which I have Journal,

utterly

am

disappointment

amuse

it,if the distinguished persons, under

under

not

really possess.

the littlemerit which I

circumstance may

I

of

some

whi(ih Mr.

which reputation

were impressions

Park's work it has

was

received,

are obtained,

sold off ; rapidly

numerous

well edi-

Viii

PKEFACE.

at the

even tions have since been called for ; and it continues,

presenttime,to be

popularand standard

a

has been

success

but in of its subject,

nature

of the work

as

a

certain

composition ; to

a

only to

owing, not

guished This distin-

book.

the

degreealso to

interesting the merits

the clearness of the

the natural and easy flow of the

tions, descrip-

and the general narration,

of the style. elegance But

the essential merit of this

conferred

the

distinctionon lasting

a

in this

regardedas

among

pointof view, it

has

of its author, consists

name

information important

in the authentic and

Considered

book,and that which

which

it contains.

be unquestionably

must

the greatestaccessions to the stock of geographical

knowledge

which

was

made

ever

by

any

single

traveller.

Among

the great variety of facts concerning the interior of

Africa not before labours of Park

known, or

Niger,as

west

a

which the ascertained,

placedbeyond all doubt,the

was unquestionably

the

at least not

most

interesting

that which relates to the great inland river,

distinctand separatestream, with

a

course

from

to east.

In

addition to this and other discoveries relative to the

state ^physical

of

others Africa,

in what important,

may

the kind and amiable

were

made

be termed itsmoral

by

Park

less scarcely

geography; namely,

of the Negro inhabitants of dispositions

the

as contrasted with the intolerance and brutal ferocity interior,

of the Moors ; the existence of great and heart

of

Africa;and

the

higher state

populouscitiesin of

the

improvementand

PREFACE.

civilization

superior

with

comparison coast

the

and

;

character

are

in

I

The

anecdotes

and

from

the

the

unknown

trying

situations,

give

have

been of

manner

the truth

to

powerful works

and

temper,

of

peculiarly

successful.

fictions the

difficult

exertions

mind

emotions

of

every

than

imagination.

reader, have

value of

His

natural

his

sufferings a

and

often

feeling excites been

tance dis-

trade,

tive. narra-

appears

unaffected

which

almost

and

conviction

deeper

produced,

the

in

he

and

age, cour-

greatest

Park's

work

in

of

conduct to

part

carries

romance,

of

and

of

Author

the

his

distinguished

but

a

slave

union

rare

with

additional

at

the

by

perseverance,

an

the

to

affecting.

the

and

a

illustrative

of the

endured

;

important

describing

influence and

on

adjoining

inhabitants

Negro

the

continent

which

this

the

dangers

enterprise,

In

to

and

interior,

interspersed,

interesting

and

ardour

of

the

countries

are

beyond

degree

difficulties

prudence,

most

and

coast,

this

which

of

the

of

disposition

highest

traversing

inhabitants

inhabitants

the

the

the

of

IX

and

even

pass sur-

of

more

by

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

I.

Page The

Author's

motives

Arrives

"

Some

for

Arrives

set

to

for the

out

place

The

and

recovery

"

sickness

His

"

that

River

Proceeds

"

river

"

"

British

tory fac-

his stay

during

described

country

ture depar-

Vintain

to

the

employment

The

and

Jonkakonda

for

Pisania, and

Author's "

instructions

the

up

of

account

His

"

Gambia Proceeds

"

Some

"

at

the voyage

the

Feloops

Laidlej's

established at Pisania

the

of

Dr.

at

Jillifree,on

at

account

undertaking

Prepares

"

interior

1

.......

CHAPTER

Description

The

of the

Feloops, the Jaloffs,the Foulahs,

account

of the

Africa

the

way

of the

and

the

nations

by

the

coast

and

buying,

Author

sets

related

by

Interview

between

nations

of the interior

from

the

III.

His

attendants

Negro king

"

Proceeds

"

Saphies

"

Jumbo

karany along

"

inhabitants on

Reaches

its bank

Fatteconda

"

Their

"

the

native

natives

of

inhabitants mode

of

the to

Has

river

Naye an

or

"

of

selling

Nayemow

interview

with

the

capitalof

Proceeds

"

Koojar

to

Woolli

Kolor

Wrestling

"

Story

"

"

match

of Bondou

24

IV.

"

Crosses

Faleme

at

Jindey

Tallika, in the kingdom

at

of Tallika road

the

charms

or

Reaches

"

Medina,

to

Arrives

"

wilderness, and arrives

Incidents

"

the

countries

CHAPTER Pisania

Mumbo

of

of the

account

conda

and

Europe

Some

"

13

CHAPTER Some

of

between

; and

Mandingoes

........

with

the

the

Gambia

and

etc.

Mandingo

Description Crosses

trade

out

a

II.

"

"

The the

Fishery Crosses

Almami,

proceeds for

Author Neriko on

"

Arrives

that

the Faleme the

river and

sovereign

at "

FatteKoor-

Proceeds arrives

of Bondou

at "

Xii

CONTENTS.

Page second interview with Has a of the king'sdwelling" Description visits the king'swives" king,who begsthe Author's coat" Author to departon friendlyterms" Journeyby night"Arrives permitted

joag" Some

account

of Bondou

at

38

.

V.

Their Kajaaga"Serawoollies"

of

Is

the Foulahs and its inhabitants,

CHAPTER Account

the

and

manners

language"Account

is ill-treatedand robbed of half his effectsby order of Batcheri,the king" Charityof a female slave The Author is visited Demba Sego,nephew of the kingof Kasson, who offers to conduct him of Joag" The Author

"

by

in

to safety

with

a

kingdom" Offer accepted The

that

"

retinue,set

numerous

out

and

reach Samee,

the Senegal Proceed to Kayee,and,crossing "

of Kasson

Author on

and his

protector, of the

tbe banks

arrive in the Senegal,

dom king52

........

VI.

CHAPTER

TiggitySego,the king'sbrother The bitants of that placeand its inhaaccount conduct of Tiggity Incidents which occurred there Rapacious the Sego toward the Author on his departure Sets out for Kooniakary, arrival at Incidents the and of the on Kooniakary road, kingdom capital

Arrival at Teesee

with

Interview

"

Author's detention at Teesee

"

"

Some

"

"

"

"

CHAPTER The

VII.

king of Kasson,whom he finds kary duringthe Author's stayat Kooniaof Kaarta Is received Departsthence for Kemmoo, the capital with great kindness by the king of Kaarta, who dissuades him from of approaching his journey, hostilitieswith the account on prosecuting The Bambarra Author of to proceed determines, notwithstanding, king ; takes the path to Ludamar, a and the usual route being obstructed, Moorish kingdom^Is accommodated by the king with a guideto Jarra, the frontiertown of the Moorish territories; and sets out for that place, by three of the king'ssons, and two hundred horsemen accompanied Author

admitted

to

61

audience of the

an

well disposed towards him

"

Incidents

"

"

"

.

CHAPTER

70

VIII.

to Funingkedy"Some account of the Lotus A youth Journeyfrom Kemmoo murdered by the Moors at his death Author passes scene Interesting "

"

reaches Jarra

"

arrivalthere, and

"

Some

particulars concerning MajorHoughton Author Situation of the surrounding states at the periodof his

throughSimbing "

a

briefaccount of the

"

war

between

Kaarta

and Bambarra

81

Xiii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

IX

Page Some

of Jarra and the Moorish

account

inhabitants

The

Author

applies for, and obtains permission from Ali,the Moorish chief, or Ludaof sovereign mar, to pass through his territories Departsfrom Jarra,and arrives at Deena 111treated by the Moors Proceeds to Sampaka Finds a Negro who makes gunpowder Continues his journeyto Samee, where he is seized by some Moors who are sent for that purpose by Ali Is conveyed a prisoner to the Moorish camp at Benowm, on the borders of the Great "

"

"

"

"

"

"

Desert .

.

.

.

.

CHAPTER Various

occurrences

by

Moorish

some

duringthe

Author's

ladies

funeral and

"

A

of the Moorish

character and

confinement

at the camp

Houssa

"

Timbuctoo

described from

at Benowm

wedding "

Other

manners

continued

and

.

Is visited

"

The Author

"

receives

circumstances

.

CHAPTER Occurrences

.

X.

extraordinarypresent from the bride

route

,92

' .

.

an

illustrative

.

.105

.

XI.

Information ; and

the

Benowm

collected by the Author

cerning con-

situation of the latter" The The

Morocco

to

his camp

to the northward

"

Author's distress from .

hunger Ali removes to the new prisoner "

encampment, and is presentedto

Great distress from the want

of water

CHAPTER further miscellaneous

Containingsome

Observations

and

manners

and

domestic,etc. etc.

"

departsfor Jarra, and

.

.

the Author

.

Author

is carried Fatima

queen

"

.115

.

.

XII. the Moorish

reflections on

character

Desert,its animals,wild

Great

.

...

.

.

124

XIII. allowed seized

to

follow him

Ali's

thither "

order,and

The back

faithful servant, Demba, by slavery Ali returns to his camp, and permitsthe Author to remain meditates his escape Jarra,who, thenceforward, Daisy,kingof Kaarta,

Author's into at

.

the concerning

CHAPTER Ali

The

"

sent

"

"

with his army towards Jarra,the inhabitants quitthe town, approaching and the Author accompanies them in their flightA party of Moors overtake him at Queira He gets away from them at daybreak Is again effectshis escape another pursuedby party,and robbed ; but finally "

"

"

.

134

CONTENTS.

XIV

XIV.

CHAPTER

Page The

derness, throughthe wilproceeds Suffers deplorable greatly

and feels greatjoy at his deliverance,

Author

E.S.E. ; but finds his situation very from thirst, and faints on the sand Recovers,and makes "

push forward

Is

"

relieved by providentially

Eoulah

where village,

from

poor

a

woman

a

another

fall of rain

he is refused reliefby the

effort to

Arrives

"

Dooty ; but

at

a

obtains food

and journeythroughthe wilderness,

Continues his

"

"

where he is hospitably another Foulah village, on day lights Arrives the of the third day at a Negro received by one on shepherds

the next

"

town

called Wawra,

to the kingof Bambarra tributary

CHAPTER The Author

to proceeds

of

account

refuses to a

.146

.

XV.

Kaartans,who joinedby some fugitive the Niger Bambarra" Discovers through of Bambarra Sego, the capital Mansong, the king, but sends him of a present Great hospitality Author, Is

"

him in his route

accompany

Some

Wassiboo

.

the

see

Negro woman

"

"

"

154

.......

CHAPTER from Sego,and Departure

XVI.

arrival at Kabba

of the Shea or vegeDescription table The Author and his guide arrive at Sansanding Behaviour of the Moors at that place The Author pursues his journeyto the eastward Incidents on the road Arrives at Modiboo,and proceeds for Kea ; but obliged to leave his horse by the way Embarks at Kea in fisherman's for Moorzan a canoe the Niger ; is conveyedfrom thence across "

butter tree"

"

"

"

"

"

to Silla "

Determines to

further course

of the

proceedno further eastward

and Niger,

the towns

CHAPTER The Author

returns

westward

Some

"

account

of the

in itsvicinage, towards the east

167

XVII.

Arrives at Modiboo and recovers his horse Finds great difficulty in travelling in consequence of the rains and the of the river" Is informed that the overflowing king of Bambarra had "

"

to apprehend him Avoids Sego,and prosecuteshis journey the of banks the Niger Incidents on the road along Cruelties attendant sent persons

"

"

"

on

African

wars"

The

Author

crosses

the river

Frina,and arrives

at

Taffara

181

"".......

CHAPTER

XVIII.

at Taffara" A Negro funeral at Sooha" Inhospitable reception The Author continues his route throughseveral villages the banks of the Niger, along until he comes to Koolikorro" Supportshimself by writingsaphies"

CONTENTS.

Eeaches

Maraboo

XV

Loses the road,and after many difficulties arrivesat Bammakoo Takes the road for Sibidooloo meets with greatkindness at called Kooma a village Is afterwards robbed,stripped, and plundered by banditti The Author's resource and consolation under exquisite distress "

"

"

"

"

He

arrives in

at safety

Sibidooloo

CHAPTER Government man

of

of

Handing" The

consequences

The

"

horse to the

Author

Mansa,

of that town

account

who proposes Slatee, of slaves

caravan

Author's

kind

.

.

Of the climate and

seasons

General observations and

a

"

on

account

summary etc.

Winds the

of their

determination .

to remain

.

.

"

manners

and habits of

"

their marriages, life,

XXI. "

"

Their notions in respectto the earth Their religious opinions "

Their diseases and methods

of treatment

"

tures, diet, arts,manufacceremonies, amusements, occupations, 225

.........

CHAPTER the concerning

state and

XXn. sources

the

"

in slavery

in which itis collected

manner

Its value in Africa

of

"

Of

ivory "

Africa

238

Process of washingit "

of the Negroesat the eagerness Surprise

Europeansfor this commodity Scattered teeth "

frequently picked

Mode of huntingthe elephant Some up in the woods etc. the unimprovedstate of the country, "

.

.

XXIII.

CHAPTER

golddust,and

203

.

214

future state

a

Their funeral

of the

Some

........

and beliefin

Of

"

VegetableproductionsPopulation character and disposition of the Mandingoes;

Mandingoescontinued bodies and the figure of the planetary

Observations

Presents his

Kamalia

"

of the

etc.

itsafllicting

XX.

CHAPTER The account

chief

reception by Karfa Taura,a in the next dryseason, with a

.

CHAPTER

or

of his horse and

"

journeyto

Author's sickness and

Karfa

Mansa,

his horse and clothes

to go to the Gambia

The

"

and accompany

.193

.

and scarcity,

Great

"

prosecuteshis

The

the

for the recovery

measures

recovers

and

"

by reception

to Wonda

removes

.

XIX.

Author's

who takes Sibidooloo,

effects" The Author

.

.

"

....

reflections on 248

Xvi

CONTENTS.

XXIV.

CHAPTER

Page in

MSS.

Arabic

resumed"

at Kamalia

Transactions

use

tlieMaliome-

among

Negroes Reflections concerning the conversion and education of Further benefactor, Karfa" of the Author's Return the Negro children of slaves Fast of Rhamadan, of the purchase and treatment account Author's anxietyfor the day of departure how observed by the Negroes its departure,and proceedings of it on Account sets out The caravan the road until its arrival at Kinytakooro on dan

"

"

"

"

"

....

XXV.

CHAPTER The

coffle

slaves ; arrives at

female

of the Jallonkas

.

.

.

proceeds

caravan

A

to

villages,and

account

Bridge

Senegal "

of

a

of the

conduct

case

"

The

and

.

.

.

XXVI. and

Konkodoo,

Baniserile, Kirwani,

matrimonial

Some

"

Remarkable

"

of the

one

.273

the Jaloffs

arrival at

of the

stream

CHAPTER The

Manna

to

at Malacotta

Arrives

"

Proceeds

"

the main

Crosses

"

singularconstruction king of

Sooseta

fate of

Miserable

wilderness"

Jallonka

the

crosses

260

Incidents

"

proceeds through

caravan

River

Faleme

the

crosses

Tambacunda

on

Gambia

arrives

"

and

towns

many

Its

"

the road

at length on the banks of the capitalof Woolli, and finally stops at Jindey The Various occurrences Author, accompanied by Karfa, proceedsto Pisania his in an can AmeriTakes previousto his departurefrom Africa passage of his voyage Britain of to Great ship Short account by way

through Medina,

Passes

"

the

"

"

"

"

the

West

Walter

Indies

Scott

journey to

"

Park

"

Anecdotes

at

home

of his Hfe at

a

of Mr. second

to Mrs.

"

"

Sir

second

a

286

journey to and death travelling, for

with

marriage Intimacy Fowlshiels Prepares for

........

second

Death

His

Africa

CHAPTER Park's

"

Africa

Park"

Starts from

Kayee

of several of his attendants

Scott,and time

"

XXVII.

his brother-in-law

Mr.

lonelyand friendless in the

His

Death,

as

related in Amadi

difficulties in

Extreme

"

"

Threatened

Anderson"

wilds

Feels

of Africa"

Fatoumi's

lions

by

"

himself

Last

letter

Journal

307 .

The

African following of the

in the course recurring very frequently thought necessary to prefixan explanation

for the Keader's

The

"

is

it narrative,

of them

Alkaid

words

head

magistrateof

convenience.

a

town

or

whose province,

office is

commonly

hereditary. Baloon Bar

A

"

in which

room

Nominal

"

singlehar

a

;

money

commonly lodged.

strangersare is

equal in

value

to two

shillings sterlingor

thereahouts.

Bentang

stage,erected in

sort of

A

"

town,

every

answeringthe

purpose

of

town-

a

hall. Bushreen

"

Calabash

"

A

Mussulman.

A

speciesof gourd,of

or Coffle Cafila A

Cowries

Booty

Another

"

the

slaves,or

a

Negroes make howls and dishes. with of people travelling company

any

of merchandise.

Small

"

of

caravan

"

kind

which

which shells, for the

name

in the interior. pass for money chief magistrateof a town or province ; this word

is

onlyin the interior countries. Kafir A Pagan native ; an unheliever. where Korree A watering-place shepherdskeep their cattle. boiled A dish preparedfrom KousTcous corn. A king or chief governor. Mansa MinJcalU"A sterling. quantityof gold,nearlyequal in value to ten shillings A sort of hoe used in husbandry. Paddle A court of justice Palaver ; a publicmeeting of any kind. used

"

"

"

"

"

"

Saphie "

Shea

tou-lou

Slatees

amulet

An "

Free

"

Soofroo "

A

or

charm.

Vegetable butter. merchants, who

black

skin for

/SbnaZjee" Another

trade

in chiefly

slaves.

containingwater.

term

for

an

unconverted

and is used by strong liquors,

way

a2

of

native ; it

reproach.

one signifies

who

drinks

TRAVELS

IN

THE

INTERIOR

CHAPTER

Author

The

and

"

Proceeds

Some

river

to

after my that

learnt

the

out

set

purpose

of

prosecuting

desirous

of

engaging

Gambia

of the

of

known, that army,

the there

a

River,

the of

climate, or

to

reason

under to

perished

the

in

stay

at

associated

of at

he

contest B

Houghton, Goree, the

of had

with

the

a

had

by

were

the

way

honour

to

captain

already

the

a

in

;

the

sailed

sacrifice

natives

be

informed,

been

Association, and

fallen

the

of the President

means

I had

for

of Africa,

continent

had

service.

1793, having

in

interior

I

whom

direction

some

the

explore that

name

apprehend in

his

country described

Indies

gentlemen,

for that

the

Proceeds "

during

occasion, through

formerly fort-major

Gambia, w^as

I took

"

Laidleys factory established

The

"

East

discoveries

offeringmyself of

recovery

and

person

River

Dr,

at

employment

the

Society, to

Royal

gentleman and

a

Gambia

the interior,

from

noblemen

instructions

"

the British

s

and

for

return

the

Arrives

"

His

"

of the Feloops

account

and

author

sickness

His

"

Prepares

^OON

The

"

voyage

Jillifree, on

Some

"

of Pisania^

place

Pisania

oi

Jonkakonda

for

account

that

at

Vintain

to

the

up

"

Arrives

departure

AFRICA.

I.

for undertaking the

motives

s

OF

to

that to

but

the

this

park's

2

travels

in

mated from my instead of deterring me purpose, aniintelligence, in the offer of my services with the greater to persist me desire to examine into the I had a passionate sohcitude. of a country so httle known, and to become productions with the modes of lifeand character acquainted experimentally able to bear fatigue of the natives. I knew that I was ; and I constitution to rehed on my youth and the strengthof my which from the effectsof the climate. The salary preserve me and I made no the committee allowed was large, sufficiently in my journey, for future reward. If I should perish stipulation should perish I was that my hopes and expectations willing the geography with me ; and if I should succeed in rendering of Africa more famihar to my countrymen, and in openingto of wealth,and new their ambition and industry sources new in the hands of men I knew that I was channels of commerce, of honour,who would not failto bestow that remuneration which

The successful services should appear to them to merit. Committee of the Association, as having made such inquiries

my

theythoughtnecessary, declared themselves satisfiedwith for the that I possessed, and acceptedme qualifications with that liberality w^hich on all occasions ; and it

the vice ser-

tinguis dis-

their conduct,gave me every encouragement wdiich in their power to grant,or which I could with propriety

was

ask. It

was

who Willis, and whose have

at firstproposed that I was

should accompany then recently Consul at appointed

countenance

served and

in that

it was capacity

Mr. James

Senegambia, thoughtmight

Government afterwards m^e ; but protected rescinded his appointment, and I lost that advantage. The kindness of the Committee, however, supplied all that was necessary. Being favoured by the secretaryof the association, the late Henry Beaufoy, to Dr. Esq.,with a recommendation John Laidley(agentlemanwho had resided many years at an the banks of the Gambia),and furnished Englishfactory on

INTERIOR

THE

with

a

letterof credit on

him

OF

for

3

AFRICA.

"200, I

took

my

passage

in

the

brig Endeavour,a small vessel tradingto the Gambia for bees-wax and ivory, commanded by CaptainRichard Wyatt, and I became impatient for my departure. My instructions were plain and concise. I was very directed,on my arrival in Africa, to pass on to the river Niger,either by the way of Bambouk, or by such other route "

as

should be

the

course,

river.

found most

the and, if possible, I

That

towns principal

Timbuctoo

and

should or

That

convenient.

use

my

cities in

rise and utmost

its

Houssa; and that

I should ascertain

termination of that

exertions

to

visit the

particularly neighbourhood, afterwards at

I should be

to return to Europe,either by the way of the Gambia, liberty stances or by such other route, as, under allthe then existingcircum-

should appear of my situation and prospects, be most advisable."

We

sailed from

Portsmouth

to

on

me

to

the 22d

"^^^V^-^'s. day of May,

1795.

On

the 4th of June

we

saw

the mountains

park's

4

Mogadore,on

over

the

travels

in

of Africa ; and of pleasant voyage

coast

the

on

21st of

thirtydays,we month, after a the northern bank of the town anchored at JiUifree, on a to James's Island,where the English river Gambia, opposite had formerly a small port. of Jillifreeis The kingdom of Barra,in which the town situated, producesgreat plentyof the necessaries of life; but the

same

the (;hieftrade of the inhabitants is in salt; which commodity as high as Barraconda,and they carry up the river in canoes

Indian corn, cotton The small quantities of gold dust,etc. in return

bringdown

teeth, cloths, elephants' of

number

and

canoes

employedin this trade,make the King of peopleconstantly formidable to Europeansthan any other chieftain Barra more the river ; and this circumstance probably on encouragedhim to

establishthose exorbitant duties which traders of all nations

"20 pay at entry,amountingto nearly vessel, greatand small. These duties or customs are

are

to obliged

collected in person he is attended on

by the Alkaid,or these occasions

governor

by

a

of

numerous

on

every

generally and Jillifree, train of

found many who, by their frequent intercourse with the EngHsh,have acquired of our a smattering

dependents, among

language;

whom

are

but

some theyare commonly very noisyand very troublebeggingfor every thingtheyfancywith such earnestness and importunity, that traders, in order to get quitof them, are frequently obhgedto grant their requests. On the 23d we and proceeded to departedfrom Jillifree, "

Vintain,a southern

town

situated about two

side of the river.

miles up This is much

a

creek

on

resorted to

the

by

of the great quantities of bees-wax which on Europeans, are broughthither for sale. The wax is collected in the woods wild and unsociable race a of people; their by the Feloops, account

country,which is of considerable extent, abounds in rice ; and the natives supplythe traders, both on the Gambia and Cassamansa with that article, and also with goats and poultry, rivers,

INTERIOR

THE

Oil

very

reasonable terms.

used by themselves chiefly much

the

same

5

AFRICA.

The

honey which they collect is making a strongintoxicating Uquor, which is producedfrom honey in

in

the mead

as

OF

Great Britain. In their trafficwith

the Feloops Europeans, generally employ a factor or agent,of the Mandingo nation,who speaksa little and is acquainted with the trade of the river. This English, broker makes the bargain ; and, with the connivance of the European,receives a certain part onlyof the payment, which he givesto his employeras the w^hole ; the remainder (whichis money) he receives when the very trulycalled the cheating to himself, as a reward for his Feloopis gone, and appropriates trouble.

The

and peculiar Feloopsis appropriate ; and as their trade is chiefly conducted,as has been observed, the Europeanshave no inducement to learn it. by Mandingoes, The numerals are as follow : One Sickaha or Enory ; Two Coolcaba ; Three Footuck ; Sibakeer ; Five Sisajee ; Four Six Seven Footuck Gookdba ; Eight Footuck Fmory ; Footuck- Sisajee Footuck- Sibakeer ; Ten Sibankonyen, ; Nine

languageof

the

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

-

"

-

"

"

"

On

the 26th

we

left Vintain,and

continued

our

course

up

the tide failedus, and

frequently towingthe vessel with the boat. The river is deep and muddy, thickets of mangrove, the banks are covered with impenetrable and the whole of the adjacent country appears to be flat and the river, whenever anchoring

swampy.

The

Gambia

abounds

with

some fish,

of species

excellent food ; but none of them that 1 recollectare Europe. At the entrance from the sea, sharks are and the great abundance ; and higherup, alligators,

which known found

are

in in

hippopotamus The lattermightwith (orriver horse)are very numerous. be calledthe river-elephant, beingof an enormous more propriety and unwieldybulk, and its teeth furnish good ivory. This with short and thick legs,and cloven animal is amphibious,

park's

6

hoofs

:

it feeds

on

in

travels

the banks of the grass, and such shrubs as river afford, boughsof trees, etc., seldom venturing far from the water, in which it

refugeon hearingthe I have approachof man. seen many, and alwaysfound seeks

them

of

a

timid and inoifen-

sive

disposition. In six daysafter leaving reached Jonkaw^e Vintain, where our vessel was to take konda,a placeof considerable trade, in part of her lading. The next morning,the several European traders c"ame

from their differentfactoriesto receive their letters,

of the cargo ; and the captain to Dr. Laidleyto inform him of my a messenger dispatched when the morningfollowing, arrival. He came to Jonkakonda

and learn the nature

I dehvered

him

and amount

Mr.

and letter, Beaufoy's

he

gave

me

a

kind

spend my time at his house until an opportunity should offer of prosecuting my journey. This invitation was to be refused ; and beingfurnished by the doctor too acceptable with a horse and guide, I set out from Jonkakonda at daybreak the 5th of July,and at eleven o'clock arrived at Pisania, on invitationto

where

I

was

accommodated

with

a room

and other conveniences

in the doctor's house. Pisania is

in the king of Yany's dominions, village established by British subjects and inhabited for trade, as a factory It is situated on solely by them and their black servants. the banks of the Gambia,sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white residents, at the time of my consisted arrival there, and two gentlemenwho were of onlyof Dr. Laidley, brothers, the name of Ainslie ; but their domestics were numerous. They enjoyedperfect under the king's security protection ; and being highlyesteemed and respectedby the natives at large,wanted a

small

THE

accommodation

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

7

comfort which the countrycould supply ; and the greatestpart of the trade in slaves, and gold, ivory, was in their hands. no

Being now was

or

settledfor

time at my ease, my firstobject to learn the Mandingo tongue,beingthe language in almost some

this part of Africa ; generaluse throughout I

and

without which

convinced that I never could acquire extensive fully an knowledgeof the countryor its inhabitants. In this pursuitI assisted by Dr. Laidley, was who, by a long residence greatly in the country,and constant intercourse with the natives, had made himself completely of it. Next to the language, master the counto collectinformation concerning was tries my great object was

I intended

to

visit. On

certain traders calledSlatees.

this occasion I These

are

was

free black

of great consideration in this part of Africa, who from the interior countries chiefly with enslaved

referred to

merchants, come

down

Negroes for sale; but I soon discovered that very littledependencecould be placedon the accounts theygave ; for theycontradicted each other in the most and all of them importantparticulars, seemed extremely that I should prosecutemy journey. unwilling These circumstances increased my anxietyto ascertain the truth from my own observations. personal the manners In researches of this kind,and in obser^ang to the in a country so httle known of the natives, and nations of Europe,and furnished with sD many striking

and customs

of nature, my time passednot unpleasantly ; objects and I began to flattermyselfthat I had escapedthe fever,or their first arrival in hot to which Europeans,on seasoning, cHmates,are generally subject.But, on the 31st of July,I an imprudently exposedmyselfto the nightdew, in observing of of the moon, with a view to determine the longitude eclipse the place; the next day I found myselfattacked with a smart confined as fever and delirium ; and such an illness followed, to the house duringthe greatest me part of August. My recouncommon

8

IN

S TRAVELS

PAEK

slow ; but I embraced every short interval of with the convalescence to walk out, and make myselfacquainted was

very

very

of the country. productions rambled farther than usual in

fever,and

of my

on

bed.

to my

before ; and in the

one

a

hot

the 10th of

The

of those excursions, having

In

day,I broughton

SeptemberI

fever,however, was

course

of three weeks

I

was

return

fined againcon-

was

not

a

so

violent

as

able,when the

weather would

permit,to renew my botanical excursions ; and I amused when it rained, etc. in myselfwith drawingplants, The care and attention of Dr. Laidleycontributed my chamber. and conto alleviatemy versation greatly sufferings ; his company beguiledthe tedious hours during that gloomyseason, when

the rain fallsin torrents ;

when

heats oppress suffocating by day,and when the night is spent by the terrifiedtravellerin w^'^*^^=^^^ of frogs to the croaking listening yond (ofwhich the numbers are bethe shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep imagination), howHng of the hyaena; a dismal concert, interrupted onlyby the

roar

of such tremendous

of but conception The

those who

thunder have

beingan countryitself,

covered

with the

as

no

person

can

form

a

heard it.

immense

and level,

very generally

formity woods, presentsa tiresome and gloomy uni-

eye ; but

althoughnature has denied to the inhabitants the beauties of romantic landscapes, she has bestowed of on them, with a liberal hand, the more importantblessings and abundance. A littleattention to (cultivationprofertility cures of a sufficiency corn ; the fields afford a rich pasturage and the natives are plentifully for cattle, lent with excelsupplied both from the Gambia River and the Walli creek. fish, The grainswhich are cultivated are Indian corn chiefly called by the natives {zeamays); two kinds of holcus spicatuSj to

THE

and

soono

which

INTERIOR

OF

9

AFRICA.

holcus niger, and holcus licohr ; the former of theyhave named bassi wooUma, and the latterhasstqui. sanio

;

with rice,are raised in considerable quantities These,together ; besides which the inhabitants, in the vicinity of the towns and have gardenswhich produceonions, villages, calavances, yams, and some cassavi, ground-nuts, pompions,gourds,water-melons, other esculent plants. I observed, the towns, small patchesof cotton near likewise, and indigo. The former of these articles supplies them with and with the latter theydye their cloth of an excellent clothing, in blue colour, In

a

that will hereafter be described.

manner

preparingtheir

food,the natives use a large wooden mortar called 2^ pahouy in which they bruise the seed until it parts with the outer covering, or husk, which is then separatedfrom the clean corn by exposingit to the wind; wheat is cleared from the chaff manner as nearlyin the same in England. The corn thus freed from the husk is returned to the mortar, and beaten into meal, which is dressed variously of it in differentcountries ; but the most common preparation which the nations of the Gambia, is a sort of pudding, among they call houskous. It is made by first moisteningthe flour and shakingit about in a large with water, and then stirring in small granules, calabash or gourd,tillit adheres together It is then put into an earthen pot, whose resembling sago. of small holes ; and this with a number bottom is perforated the two vessels are luted together, pot beingplaced upon another, either with a paste of meal and water, or with cow's dung,and placedupon the fire. In the lower vessel is commonly some corn

for

animal food and water, the steam or vapour of which ascends and in the bottom of the upper vessel, throughthe perforations softens and prepares the kouskous,which is very much esteemed

throughoutall that the on

the

same

the countries

manner

of

that I visited. I

flour preparing

Barbary coast,and that

the

so

informed

used generally preparedis there

is very

dish

am

10

PARK

IN

S TRAVELS

that the It is therefore probable name. by the same from the Moors. Negroesborrowed the practice another sort of pudding taste for variety, For gratifying a is sometimes preparedfrom the meal of corn ; called nealing of and they have also adoptedtwo or three different modes the natives their rice. Of vegetable food,therefore, dressing class of peopleare have no want ; and althoughthe common but sparingly suppHedwith animal food,yet this articleis not whollywithheld from them. as in Europe. Their domestic animals are nearlythe same called

Swine

are

found in the.woods,

but their flesh is not esteemed ; the marked abhorrence probably in which

this animal

is held

by the votariesof Mahomet has spreaditselfamong the Pagans. Poultryof allkinds (theturkey is everywhereto be excepted) had.

The Guinea fowl and red

abound partridge and

Of the other wild most

common

the Considering

Indies,it

the

are

use

be

in the fields;

the w^oods furnish

a

small

of which speciesof antelope, is highly and the venison deservedly prized. animals in the Mandingo countries, the the panther, and the elephant. hyaena,

that is made

of the latter in the East

that the natives of thoughtextraordinary Africa have not, in any part of this immense continent, acquired the skill of taming this powerful and docile creature, and applyinghis strengthand faculties to the service of man. When I told some of the natives that this was actually done in the countries of the East,my auditors laughedme to scorn, and Tohauho fonnio(a white man's lie) ! The Negroes exclaimed, may

INTERIOR

THE

OF

11

AFRICA.

find means to destroythe elephant by fire-arms; frequently for the sake of the teeth, which they theyhunt it principally transfer in barter to those sell them

againto the Europeans. The flesh they who

eat, and

consider it

as

a

great delicacy. The usual beast of burthen

Negro territoriesis of j The application

in all the the

ass.

animal labour to the purposes is nowhere of agriculture

therefore, adopted; the plough, is wholly unknown. The used in husbandry chief implement is the hoe,which varies in form in different districts ; and the labour is universally slaves. performedby the 6th of October the waters

On

of the Gambia

at

were

the greatestheight, being fifteen feet above the high-water mark of the tide ; after which theybegan to subside at first "

afterwards very rapidly, sometimes sinkingmore of November foot in twenty-four hours ; by the beginning

slowly,but than

a

the river had sunk flowed

usual.

as

and the tide ebbed and its former level, and the atmosphere When the river had subsided, to

recovered apace, and began to think of my for departurefor this is reckoned the most proper season grew

dry,I

"

; the natives had travelling completedtheir harvest,and provisions were everywherecheapand plentiful. Dr. Laidley at this time employedin a trading was voyage

at

Jonkakonda.

I wrote

to him

to

desire that he would

use

to procure me or slave-merchants, Slatees, and protection of the firstcoffle (orcaravan)that

his interest with the the company might leave Gambia I

him requested

for the interior country; and in the to

purchasefor me

a

horse and two

time meanasses.

park's

12

A

days afterwards

few

informed the

that

me

of the

course

belonging

to

it had

that

as

of the merchants

many

yet completed their

not

Pisania, and

to

for the interior in

certainly go

; but

dry season

returned

Doctor

the

coffle would

a

in

travels

of

assortment

they would set out. of the slatees,and people As the characters and dispositions and to me, that composed the caravan, were entirelyimknown and unwiUing to to as they seemed rather averse my purpose, the into any positiveengagements account enter on ; and my time of their departurebeing withal very uncertain,I resolved, and further deliberation, to avail myself of the dry season, on proceedwithout them. Dr. Laidley approved my determination,and promised me goods,he

every

could not

assistance

journey wdth

in

comfort

what

at

say

his power

time

enable

to

to

me

prosecute my

and

safety. This resolution having been formed, I made preparations accordingly. And being about to take leave of my now, hospitablefriend (w^hosekindness and solicitude continued to the moment of my and to quit,for many months, departure),* the countries bordering on the Gambia, it seems proper, before 1 proceed with my narrative,that I should,in this place,give of the several Negro nations which account some inhabit the banks

of this celebrated

that subsists between as

find their

observations will be found

*

Dr.

left Africa way

them

advantage which in the

Laidley,to

my

in

have

and

such

trading to

occurred

to

intercourse

of the nations

of

Europe

this part of Africa. me

on

both

these

The

subjects

followingchapter. infinite regret,has

in the latter end

of the West

river,and the commercial

Indies ; and

of

since

paid the

1797, intendingto

died

soon

return

debt to

of nature.

Great

Britain

after his arrival at Barbadoes.

He

by

THE

INTERIOR

OF

CHAPTER

13

AFRICA.

11.

the Jaloffs^ the Foulahs,and ManDescription of the Feloops, dingoes Some account of the trade between the nations of Europeand the natives ofAfrica,hy the way of the Gambia, and between the native inhabitantsof the coast,and the nations and buying, of the interiorcountries Their mode of selling "

"

etc,

X

HE

natives of the countries

distributed into

think,be

on bordering

the

Gambia,though

distinct governments, may, I divided into four great classes;the Feloops,the

great many

a

the Foulahs,and the Mandingoes. Among all these JalofTs, of Mahomet has made, and continues to nations,the religion make, considerable progress ; but in most of them, the body of the

people,both

free and

enslaved, persevere in maintaining the blind but harmless superstitions of their ancestors,and are called by the Mahomedans or infidels. hafirs, I have littleto add to what has been Of the Feloops, observed concerning them in the former chapter.They are of and are to forgivean a gloomy disposition, supposednever as deadly injury.They are even said to transmit their quarrels that a son considers it as feuds to their posterity ; insomuch of filialobligation, to incumbent on him, from a just sense become

the avenger loses his lifein one

of his deceased father'swrongs. of those sudden

If ^,

man

which perpetually quarrels,

when the whole party is intoxicated with feasts, mead, his son, or the eldest of his sons (ifhe has more than which he wears one),endeavours to procure his father'ssandals,

occur

at their

14

PARK

once

a

year,

S TRAVELS

IN

of his father'sdeath,until a fit anniversary when the objectof his of avenginghis fate,

tlie

on

offers opportunity

lenting pursuit.This fierce and unreis,however,counterbalanced by many good disposition and affectiontowards the utmost gratitude quahties ; theydisplay with which they preserve their benefactors;and the fidelity whatever is entrusted to them is remarkable. During the taken up arms to defend than once presentwar theyhave more merchant vessels from French English our privateers ; and been left at property,of considerable value,has frequently under the care of the Feloops, Vintain,for a longtime,entirely manifested on such occasions the strictest who have uniformly is it to be wished that honestyand punctuality.How greatly could be determined and faithful, the minds of a people, so of softened and civiHzed by the mild and benevolent spirit ! Christianity and warlike The Jaloff's are an active, powerful, (orYaloff's) race, inhabiting great part of that tract which lies between the river Senegaland the Mandingo states on the Gambia ; yet but likewise not onlyin language, theydifferfrom the Mandingoes, in complexionand features. The noses of the Jaloffs are not so much the lips as among nor so protuberant, depressed, the generality of Africans ; and althoughtheir skin is of the deepestblack,theyare considered by the-white traders as the most sightly Negroesin this part of the continent. They are divided into several independentstates or kingdoms, which are frequently at war either with their neighbours, In their manners, superstitions, or with each other. and government, have resemblance to the Mandingoes a greater however,they

resentment

seldom

escapes

his

than to any other nation ; but excel them in the manufacture of cotton cloth the wool to a finer thread, spinning weaving it "

in

broader loom, and dyingit of a better colour. Their language is said to be copious and significant, and is often learnt by Europeanstrading to Senegal. a

THE

The

INTERIOR

OF

15

AFRICA.

Foulahs

such of them at least as reside (orPholeys), the Gambia, are chiefly of a tawny complexion, near with soft features. They are much attached to a silkyhair and pleasing and have introduced themselves into all the kinglife, pastoral doms the windward on and husbandmen, coast as herdsmen of the coimtryfor the lands payinga tribute to the sovereign which theyhold. The Mandingoesconstitute in truth the bulk of the inhabitants in all those districtsof Africa which I visited; and their

with a few exceptions, is universally and language, understood, spoken,in that part of the continent. very generally I conceive, as having They are called Mandingoes, originally from the interior state of Handing, of which some migrated will hereafter be given; but, contraryto the present account constitution of their parent country,which is repubhcan,it appearedto me that the government in allthe Mandingostates, the Gambia, is monarchical. The power of the sovereign near unlimited. In all affairsof importance, is,however, by no means the king callsan assemblyof the principal or elders,by men, whose councils he is directed, and without whose advice he can neither declare war, nor conclude peace. there is In every considerable town

a

chief

magistrate,

and whose business Alkaid,whose officeis hereditary, and to preside to levyduties on travellers, preserve order,

called the it is to at

and the all conferences in the exercise of local jurisdiction

justice.These courts are composed of the and are iQvmed palavers elders of the town (offree condition), ; and their proceedings are conducted in the open airwith sufficient nesses are canvassed,witfreely solemnity. Both sides of a question are examined, and the decisions which follow publicly audience. of the surrounding meet with the approbation generally As the Negroeshave no written languageof their own, the generalrule of decision is an appealto ancient custom; but administration of

since the system of Mahomet

has made

so

greatprogress among

park's

16

travels

in

with introduced, gradually ; the religious tenets,many of the civilinstitutionsof the prophet recourse explicit, and where the Koran is not found sufficiently I was as is had to a commentary called Al Sharra,containing, laws, or digestof the Mahomedan told,a completeexposition arrangedand illustrated. both civiland criminal, properly of appealto written laws,with which the This frequency has given rise in natives are necessarily unacquainted, pagan to (whatI littleexpectedto find in Africa) their palavers professiona of the law, who are allowed or expounders advocates, or defendant,much in the to appear and to pleadfor plaintiff

them, the

same

converts

manner

as

to that faith have

counsel in the law

courts

of Great

Britain.

Negroeswho have made, or affectto have They are Mahomedan made, the laws of the Prophettheir pecuharstudy; and if I I which I frequently attended, may judgefrom their harangues, and of procrastination believe that in the forensic qualifications not

and perplexing a confounding cause, in Europe, by the ablest pleaders alwayssurpassed

was

at

cavil,and the

theyare While

I

arts

of

Pisania

a

cause

was

heard which furnished the

of displaying lawyerswith an admirable opportunity their professional dexterity.The case was this : An ass belongingto a SerawooUi Negro (a native of an interior had broke into a fieldof corn country near the river Senegal) and destroyed belongingto one of the Mandingo inhabitants, great part of it. The Mandingo havingcaughtthe animal in his field, drew his knife and cut its throat. The immediately SerawooUi thereuponcalled a palaver (orin European terms, to recover an Irought damagesfor the loss of his beast, action) which he set a highvalue. The defendant confessed he had on killed the ass, but pleaded that the loss he had a set off, insisting sustained, by the ravage in his corn, was equalto the sum demanded for the animal. To ascertain this fact w^as the point at issue, and the learned advocates contrived to puzzle the cause in such a manner, that after a hearingof three days,the court Mahomedan

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

broke up without comingto any determination upon second palaver was, I suppose, thought necessary.

17 it ; and

a

The

of a mild, are Mandingoes, generally speaking, sociable, and obliging The men are disposition. commonly above the middle size, well shaped, of enduring strong,and capable great labour ; the women and agreeable. are good-natured, sprightly The dress of both sexes is composedof cotton cloth, of their own manufacture ; that of the men is a loose frock, unlike a not with drawers which reach half way down the leg; and surplice, and white cotton caps on their theywear sandals on their feet, heads. The women's dress consistsof two pieces of cloth, each of which theywrap round the waist, which,hangingdown to the the purpose of a petticoat answers ankles, ; the other is thrown the bosom and shoulders. over negligently This account of their clothing is indeed nearly to apphcable the natives of all the differentcountries in this part of Africa ; national mode is observable onlyin the head-dresses a peculiar of the

women.

Thus,in the countries of the Gambia, the females wear a of which theycallJalla, It is a narrow sort of bandage, stripe the over cotton cloth, WTapped many times round,immediately of white forehead. In Bondou the head is encircledwith strings beads,and a small plateof goldis worn in the middle of the in a very forehead. In Kasson,the ladiesdecorate their heads, with white sea-shells. In Kaarta tastefuland elegant manner, and Ludamar, the women raise their hair to a greatheight by in Great the addition of a pad (as the ladies did formerly of coral, which theydecorate with a species brought Britain), and sold at from Mecca, from the Red Sea by pilgrims returning a gi'eat price. the Mandingoes In the constructionof their dwelling-houses, of the African nations on also conform to the general practice themselves with small and this partof the continent, contenting incommodious hovels. A circularmud wall about four feet high, 0

pake's

18

in

travels

conical roof,composed of the bamboo forms alike the palaceof the cane, and thatched with grass, king,and the hovel of the slave. Their household furniture is stakes, upon upright simple. A hurdle of canes placed equally about two feet from the ground, upon which is spreada mat or is

which

upon

placeda

the purpose of a bed ; a water jar,some bowls and their food,a few wooden earthen pots for dressing and one or two low stools, compose the rest. calabashes,

bullock's hide,answers

As every man is found necessary

of free condition has

(topresent,I

a

suppose,

of wives,it plurality matrimonial dispute)

that each of the ladies should be accommodated to the same and allthe huts belonging herself; by a fence,constructed of bamboo

into

formed called

a

a

The

of wicker-work.

sort

sirh^or surh,

A

a

hut to

rounded familyare surcanes splitand

whole

of these

number

with

inclosure is

with inclosures,

passages between them, form what is called a town ; ing accordwithout any regularity, but the huts are generally placed narrow

of the owner. caprice the attended to, is placing to the

be

onlyrule that seems to in towards the south-west,

The door

order to admit the sea-breeze.

largestage called the Bentang,which hall or town-house ; it is comthe purpose of a public posed answers of interwoven canes, and is generally sheltered from the It is sun by beingerected in the shade of some largetree. here that all pubKc affairsare transacted, and trials conducted ; and here the lazy and indolent meet their pipes to smoke and hear the news of the day. In most of the towns the Mahomedans have also a missura,or mosque, in which they assemble and offer up their daily to the rules prayers, according In

each town

is

a

of the Koran. In the account

reader must to persons

than

which I have thus

givenof

the the natives,

bear in

mind, that my observations applychiefly who constitute, I suppose, not more oifreecondition^

one-fourth part of the inhabitants at

large;

the other

THE

three-fourths are

in

INTERIOR

OF

19

AFRICA.

state of

and hereditary hopeless slavery, and are employedin cultivating .the land,in the care of cattle, and in servile oflScesof all kinds,much in the same manner as the slaves in the West Indies. I was told,however,that the sell nor Mandingomaster can neither deprivehis slave of life, him to a stranger, without firstcalling his conduct, on a palaver to a or, in other words, bringinghim publictrial; but this is extended onlyto the native or domestic degreeof protection slave. Captives taken in war, and those unfortunate victims who are condemned to slavery for crimes or insolvency, and,in short,all those unhappypeoplewho are broughtdown from the interior countries for sale, have no security whatever,but may be treated and disposed of in all respectsas the owner thinks It sometimes indeed,when no shipsare on happens, proper. the coast,that a humane and considerate master incorporates his purchased slaves among his domestics ; and their ofispring if not the parents, become entitled to allthe privileges at least, a

of the native class. The

the remarks concerning preceding

inhabit the banks

of the

necessary to be made

Gambia,

are

several nations that

all that I recollectas

in this place, at the outset of my

journey. are With regardto the Mandingoes, however,many particulars interwoven into of which are necessarily some yet to be related, mary the narrative of my progress, and others will be givenin a sumwith allsuch observations at the end of my work, together the country and climate,which I could detail of occurrences. not with propriety insert in the regular as

I have collected on

will therefore relate solely remains of the presentchapter to the trade which the nations of Christendom have found means to establishwith the natives of Africa by the channel of the What

has arisen in consequence the inhabitants of the coast and the nations of the

Gambia, and the inland of it between

traflScwhich

interiorcountries. The

earliestEuropeanestablishment

on

this celebrated river

park's

20

was

a

of factory

and Portuguese,

the

the introduction of the stillin

are

use

in

travels

be ascribed

languagewhich Dutch,French,and

words of that

numerous

The

the negroes.

among

this must

to

ments themselves of settlepossessed Englishafterwards successively the coast ; but the trade of the Gambia became,and on continued for many years, a sort of monopolyin the hands of the English. In the travels of Francis Moore is preservedan establishments in this account of the RoyalAfrican Company's alone river in the year 1730, at which time James's factory and two other princonsisted of a governor, deputy-governor, cipal thirteen writers, twenty inferior oflScers; eightfactors, and thirtyof soldiers, attendants and tradesmen ; a company with their and boats, besides sloops, two Negroservants, shallops, less than eightsubordinate factories no crews ; and there were in other

partsof the river.

Europe,by beingafterwards laid open, was of Englandat annihilated; the share which the subjects

The trade with almost

than two or three annual this time hold in it,supportsnot more and I am informed that the gross value of British exports ships, is under "20,000. The French and Danes stillmaintain a small sent share,and the Americans have lately

Gambia

by way

a

few vessels to the

of

experiment. The commodities exportedto the Gambia from Europe consist chiefly of fire-arms and ammunition,iron ware, spirituous cotton caps, a small quantity of broad cloth, tobacco, liquors, and

a

few articles of the manufacture

assortment

of India

goods,with

other trifles, for which

bees-wax,and ivory, the whole

number

from the Gambia

are

which

a

small

glassbeads,amber,and slaves, golddust, exchange,

some

taken in

hides.

of Manchester ;

Slaves

are

this time

but the chief article,

exported annually by all nations,is supposedto be under one at

are

thousand. Most of these unfortunate victims in

periodical caravans,

many

of them

are

broughtto

from very

remote

the coast

inland

THE

INTERIOR

OF

21

AFRICA.

for the language which theyspeak is countries,

by

the inhabitants of the maritime

not

districts. In

a

understood

subsequent

part of my work I shall givethe best information I have been able to collectconcerning in which theyare obtained. the manner On their arrival at the coast,if no immediate opportunity offers of

them to advantage, selling they are distributed among the until a slave shiparrives, until they neighbouring or villages be sold to black traders, who sometimes purchase can on lation. specuIn the meanwhile,the poor wretches are keptconstantly two and two of them beingchained together, and emfettered, ployed in the labours of the field ;

fed,as well as scantily slave varies according to the

very

and the anival of reckon that

a

and

young

five years of age, may "20 sterling.

sorry to add, are harshlytreated. The priceof a

number

from

caravans

and, I

the

am

of

from Europe purchasers interior; but in general I

healthymale,from

be estimated

on

sixteen to twentythe spot from "18 to

The

Negro slave merchants,as I have observed in the former chapter, called Slatees; who, besides slaves and the are merchandize which theybringfor sale to the whites, supplythe inhabitants of the maritime

districtswith

native

iron,sweet-

and a commoditycalled sheasmelling gums and frankincense, tree-butter. This translated, toulou,which, literally signifies of boiling water, from the commodityis extracted, by means described hereafter; kernel of a nut, as will be more particularly it has the consistence and appearance of butter ; and is in truth admirable substitutefor it. It forms an importantarticlein an

also for every domestic purand serves the food of the natives, pose The demand for in which oil would otherwise be used. it is therefore very

great.

the maritime states supplythe In payment of these articles, and valuable commodity, interior countries with salt,a scarce of my in the course and painfully experienced frequently of this article, however, are journey. Considerable quantities as

I

park's

22

travels

in

to the inland natives by the Moors, who obtain it also supplied from the salt pitsin the Great Desert, and receive in return corn,

cotton

and slaves. cloth,

veniences one commodity for another,many inconbartering have arisen at firstfrom the want must necessarily

In thus

of coined money, or some or to settle the balance,

other visibleand determinate medium difierence of value between

difierent

to remedy which the natives of the interior make articles,

use

of small shellscalled cowries, as will be shown hereafter. On which I the coast, the inhabitants have adopteda practice to themselves. believe is peculiar intercourse with In their early

the articlethat Europeans, in formingthe iron. Its utility, notice was attracted most it preferable made to all and husbandry, instruments of war became the measure others ; and iron soon by which the value ascertained. Thus, a certain of all other commodities was to be of goods, of whatever denomination,appearing quantity in the trader's equalin value to a bar of iron,constituted, merchandize. Twenty leaves a bar of that particular phraseology, of tobacco, forinstance, considered as a bar of tobacco ; and were and half water), as a a gallonof spirits (or rather half spirits bar of rum commoditybeingreckoned equalin ; a bar of one value to a bar of another commodity. As, however,it must unavoidably happen,that according of goodsat market in proportion to the plenty to the or scarcity tion, demand, the relativevalue would be subject to continual fluctuahas been found necessary ; and at this greaterprecision time the current value of a single bar of any kind is fixed by the whites at two shillings Thus a slave, whose priceis sterling.

"15, is said to be worth 150 bars. In

transactions of this nature, it is obvious that the white

trader has

the advantageover the African,whom, infinitely it is difiicultto satisfy; therefore, for,conscious of his own he naturally becomes and ignorance, exceedingly suspicious

INTERIOR

THE

wavering

;

Negroes

in

and,

Having

residence reader

and

chapter, the

painful return

its

the

to

to

perilous the

Gambia.

the

the

of

such

the

which

arose

journey,

of in

from

that

taken

matter,

my

its

the

is chase pur-

observations to

I

me

shall

but

which in

the

commencement,

on

during

my

detain

the

proceed,

incidents

mind,

bargain

until

general

Gambia,

the

a

the

are

leave.

occurred

as

introductory detail

jealous

concluded,

has

party

and

whites, as

together

regular

reflections and

with

inhabitants,

with

a

unsettled

very

vicinage

longer

no

and

23

AFRICA.

European

brought

and in

the

paid,

now

country

so

dealings by

is

money

next

their

considered

never

the

indeed,

OF

in

the

happened, course

of until

my my

pabk's

24

in

travels

III.

CHAPTER The

Author

sets out

from

Pisania

"

His

attendants "

Reaches

Storyrelated hy a MandingoNegro Proceeds to Medina^ the capital of Woolli Interview with the king Proceeds to Kolor of Description Saphiesor charms match Arrives at Koojar Wrestling Jumbo Mumho in the kingdom and arrives at Tallikaj Crosses the wilderness^ ofBondou, Jmdey

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

Un

mansion of Dr. hospitable with a Negro servant, who

tongues. His

departurefrom the provided Laidley. I was fortunately spokeboth the Englishand Mandingo 1795, I took my

the 2d of December

native of this part havingin his youthbeen conveyedto Jamaica

name

was

Johnson,

of Africa ; and he had been made as a slave,

He

was

a

and taken free,

to

master, where he had resided many years ; and his way back to his native country. As he w^as

Englandby his at lengthfound known

to Dr.

the Doctor recommended him to me, and I hired him Laidley, as my at the rate of ten bars monthly, to be paid interpreter, and five bars a month to be paidto his wife during to himself, his absence. Dr. Laidley furthermore provided with a Negro me boy of his own, named Demla ; a sprightly youth,who besides inland Mandingo,spokethe languageof the Serawoollies, an mention will hereafter be made),residing on people(ofwhom the banks of the Senegal ; and to induce him to behave well, the Doctor promised him his freedom on his return, in case I should report favourably of his fidelity and services. I was furnishedwith a horse for myself, but very hardyand (asmall,

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

25

beast,which cost me to the value of "7, 10s.) spirited and two for my interpreter and servant. asses My baggage was light, of provisions for two days; a small assortment consisting chiefly of beads,amber and tobacco,for the purchase of a fresh supply, and other necessary as I proceeded ; a few changesof linen, an a pocket umbrella, apparel, sextant,a magneticcompass, and with two fowling-pieces, a thermometer of two pairs ; together other small articles. and some pistols, A freeman (a Bushreen or Mahomedan),named Madiboo, who was traveUing to the kingdomof Bambarra,and two Slatees, and of the same or slave merchants of the Serawoolli nation, sect, who were goingto Bondou, offered their services as far as they intended respectively to proceed ; as did likewise a Negro named native of Kasson,who had been a Mahomedan,) a Tami, (also and was employedsome years by Dr. Laidleyas a blacksmith, of his labours. to his native countrywith the savings returning their asses before them. All these men travelled on foot, driving all of whom had Thus I had no less than six attendants, with greatrespect,and to consider been taughtto regardme that their safe return hereafter, to the countries on the Gambia, would dependon my preservation. with a number and Messrs. Ainsley, Dr. Laidleyhimself, of their domestics, kindlydetermined to accompany me the two first days; and, 1 believe,they secretly thoughtthey should never

see

me

afterwards.

Jindeythe same day,havingcrossed the Walli creek,a branch of the Gambia, and rested at the house of a of a white been the chere amie black woman, who had formerly was trader named Hewett; and who, in consequence thereof, In the eveningwe Seniora. called, by way of distinction. to a Slatee walked out to see an adjoining belonging village, named Jemaffoo Mamadoo, the richestof allthe Gambia traders. We found him at home ; and he thoughtso highlyof the honour with a fine bullock. that he presented us done him by this visit, We

reached

park's

26

which

was

not go

ourselves while

desired to relate and

some

resemblance ;

to supper

it dressed for

and tilllate,

our

in order to

a Mandingo was preparing, stories; in listening to which, diverting

our

we smokingtobacco,

some

in

and part of killed, immediately

evening's repast. The Negroesdo amuse

travels

beef

was

spent three hours.

to those in the Arabian

are but,in general,

of

a

more

These

stories bear

ments Nights'Entertain-

ludicrous

cast.

I shall

of them for the reader's amusement. one abridge the relater), the peopleof Dooma"Many years ago (said much annoyed by a lion, sansa (atown on the Gambia),were and took away of their cattle. that came some every night, the peoplewere his depredations, at length so By continuing much that a party of them resolved to go and hunt enraged, the monster. They accordingly proceededin search of the common enemy, which theyfound concealed in a thicket ; and at him, were immediately firing luckyenough to wound him in such a manner, that,in springing from the thicket towards the he felldown among the grass, and was unable to rise. people, The animal,however,manifested such appearance of vigour, that nobodycared to approachhim singly ; and a consultation held concerning the properestmeans was of takinghim alive ; it was a circumstance, said, which,while it furnished undeniable it proofof their prowess, would turn out to great advantage, beingresolved to convey him to the coast,and sell him to the Europeans. While some persons proposedone plan,and some ofiered a scheme. another,an old man This was, to strip the roof of a house of its thatch, and to carry the bamboo frame (the of which are well secured together and throw pieces by thongs), it over the Hon. If,in approaching him, he should attempt to spring to do but to letdown the upon them, theyhad nothing roof upon themselves, and fire at the lion throughthe rafters. This proposition was approvedand adopted. The thatch taken from the roof of a hut,and the Uon-hunters, was supporthere

"

THE

INTERIOR

OF

27

AFRICA.

marched courageously to the fieldof battle; each ingthe fabric, in one hand,and bearing a gun his share of the person carrying roof on the opposite shoulder. In this manner theyapproached the enemy; but the beast had by this time recovered his the fiercenessof his countenance, that strength ; and such was the hunters, instead of proceeding thoughtit prudent any further, for their own to provide themselves with the safety, by covering roof. Unfortunately, the lion was too nimble for them ; for, making a springwhile the roof was setting down, both the beast and his pursuers were caughtin the same cage, and the lion devoured them

his leisure, to the great astonishment and mortification of the peopleof Doomasansa ; at which placeit is at

at this day to tellthe story, for it is become dangerouseven the subject of laughter and derision in the neighbouring countries, and nothingwill enrage an inhabitant of that town so much as him to catch a lion alive." desiring About one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d of December, I took my leave of Dr. Laidley and Messrs. Ainsley, and rode into the woods. I had now before me a boundless forest, slowly

and

a

country,the inhabitants of which and life,

to most

of whom

a

white

were man

lized strangersto civiwas

the

of object

from the last or plunder.I reflectedthat I had parted curiosity for ever and perhapsquitted behold, EuropeanI mightprobably the comforts of Christian society.Thoughtslike these would the mind, and I rode musingalong cast a gloomover necessarily for about three miles, when I was awakened from my reverie by who came a body of people, running up and stoppedthe asses, givingme to understand that I must go with them to Peckaba, to them. to the king of Walli,or pay customs to presentmyself of my I endeavoured to make them comprehendthat the object to a tax I ought not to be subjected journeynot being traffic, like the Slatees and other merchants who travel for gain; but I reasoned to no purpose. They said it was usual for travellers of all descriptions to make a presentto the kingof Walli,and

takk's

28

travels

in

to proceed. As they permitted and withal very noisy, than my attendants, numerous were more I thought it prudentto complywith their demand, and having for the king's them with four bars of tobacco, use, I presented and at sunset reached a to continue my journey, was permitted Kootacunda,where we rested for the night. near village In the morning of December 4th,I passedKootacunda,the about an hour at a small adjoinof WalU, and stopped last town ing to pay customs to an officerof the king of WooUi. village and at called Tabajang, We rested the ensuing nightat a village reached Medina,the the next day (December5th) we noon of the king of WooUi's dominions. capital The kingdom of WooUi is bounded by Walli on the west, by the Gambia on the south,by the small river Walli on the and on the east by north-west, by Bondou on the north-east,

without

doingso

I could not be

the Simbani wilderness. The are

which risesinto gentleacclivities, countryeverywhere covered with extensive woods,and the towns are generally

situated in the intermediate

valleys.Each town is surrounded by a tract of cultivated land,the produceof which,I presume, is found sufficientto supplythe wants of the inhabitants ; for the soil appearedto me to be everywhere fertile, except near the tops of the ridges, where the red iron-stone and stunted shrubs sufficiently marked the boundaries between fertility and barrenness. The chief productions are cotton, tobacco,and esculent vegetables raised in the valleys, the ; all which are to differentsorts of corn. rising groundsbeingappropriated The inhabitants are Mandingoes;and, like most of the Mandingo nations,are divided into two great sects, the Mahomedans, who are called Bushreens, and the Pagans,who called indiscriminately, are and Sonakies Kafirs(unbelievers) [Ie., men who drink strong liquors).The Pagan natives are by far the most numerous, and the government of the countryis in their hands,for though the most the respectable among

THE

Bushreens

INTERIOR

OF

29

AFRICA.

consulted in affairsof importance, frequently yet theyare never permittedto take any share in the executive in the hands of the Mama, or government, which rests solely and great officersof the state. Of these, the firstin sovereign, heir of the crown, who is called pointof rank is the presumptive the

are

Farlanna;

governors,

next

to

are

more

who

him

the

Alkaids,or provincial called Keamos. Then frequently are

follow the two

granddivisionsof freemen and slaves;* of the mentioned in the preceding so former,the Slatees, frequently pages, are considered as the principal ; but in all classesgreat of aged men. respectis paidto the authority On the death of the reigning monarch,his eldest son (ifhe has attained the age of manhood) succeeds to the regalauthority. If there is

no

son,

or

if the

son

a discretion, meeting of the great men

monarch's

is under

the age of is held,and the late

is called to brother), the government, not as regent,or guardianto the infant son, The charges but in fullright, and to the exclusion of the minor. of the government are defrayed by occasional tributesfrom the the country. and by duties on goodstransported across people, on Travellers, goingfrom the Gambia towards the interior, pay On in European merchandise. customs theypay in returning iron and shea-toulou; these taxes are paidat every town. of the kingdom,at which I was now Medina,tthe capital contain is a placeof considerable extent; and may arrived, It is fortifiedin thousand houses. from eighthundred to one the common African manner, highwall built by a surrounding of clay, and an outward fence of pointedstakes and prickly and the outward fence has bushes ; but the walls are neglected, suflered considerably from the active hands of busy housewives, *

nearest

The term, which

relation (commonlyhis

a man signifies

of free

slave, Jong, The a city. t Medina,in the Arabic,signifies

is Horia condition,

name

is not

; that of

uncommon

been borrowed from the Mahomedans. the Negroes, and has probably

among

a

pahk's

30

in

travels

pluckup the stakes for firewood. I obtained a lodgingat who apprized relations, of the king'snear me, that at my one to shake hands not presume introduction to the king,I must to not usual,he said,to allow this liberty It was with him.

who

in the afternoon to pay I went strangers. Thus instructed, respectsto the sovereign;and ask permissionto pass my

throughhis territoriesto He

was

account

the

same

was

seated upon and

men

venerable old

transmitted a

mat were

women

The

Bondou. man

name king's

of whom

so

by Major Houghton.

was

Jatta,

favourable I found

an

him

before the door of his hut ; a number of arrangedon each side,who were singing

and respectfully, informed him of the purport of my visit. The king graciously repUed,that he not onlygave me leave to pass throughhis country,but would offerup his prayers for my safety.On this, of my attendants, in return for the king'scondescension, one seemingly began to sing,or rather to roar, an Arabic song ; at every pause of which,the king himself, and all the people struck theirhands against their foreheads, and exclaimed, present, with devout and affecting The Amen, Amen!'^ solemnity. that I should have a guidethe day king told me, furthermore, who would conduct me to the frontierof his following, safely kingdom. I then took my leave,and in the eveningsent the of rum, and king an order upon Dr. Laidleyfor three gallons received in return greatstore of provisions. Dec. 6th. Early in the morning,I went to the king a second time, to learn if the guidewas ready. I found his majestysitting upon a bullock's hide,warming himself before a fire; for the Africans are sensibleof the smallest variation large

clappingtheir

and

hands.

I

saluted him

"

*

It may seem from hence that the assured to the contrary. He joined in

kingwas

mere

the

offered up Almighty,

dictatesof his benevolent mind with

whether from Bushreen

Mahomedan

this occasion

; but I was

probablyfrom ; considering perhapsthat prayers to true devotion and sincerity, were equally able, acceptor Pagan. prayer

the

a

on

THE

in the

when

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

31

temperatureof the air,and frequently complainof cold

with heat. He received me with Europeanis oppressed benevolent countenance, and tenderly entreated me to desist a from my purpose of travelling into the interior, that me telling if I followed MajorHoughton had been killed in his route,and that, I should probably his footsteps, meet with his fate. He said that I must of the eastern country not judgeof the people wdth white by those of Woolli ; that the latter were acquainted them ; whereas the peopleof the east had and respected men, and would certainly I never seen a white man, destroyme. thanked the kingfor his affectionatesolicitude, but told him that I had considered the matter, and was standing determined,notwithall dangers, to proceed. The king shook his head, but desisted from further persuasion, and told me the guide should be readyin the afternoon. I went the guideappearing, About two o'clock, and took and in three hours reached my last farewell of the good old king, determined to rest for the where we Konjour,a small village, a fine sheepfor some beads,and my night. Here I purchased SerawooUi attendants killedit with allthe ceremonies prescribed dressed for supper, after which by their religion ; partof it was a disputearose between one of the SerawooUi Negroes and horns. The former about the sheep's Johnson,my interpreter, for havingacted the part of claimed the horns as his perquisite, and Johnson contested the claim. I settledthe matter our butcher, incident ismentioned by givinga horn to each of them. This trifling on to what follows ; for it appeared as introductory inquiry convertible that these horns were highlyvalued,as beingeasily and keeping secure into portable or cases, for containing sheaths, which the Negroesconstantly certain charms or amulets calledsapMes, These saphies are about them. wear prayers, or rather write on priests sentences,from the Koran, which the Mahomedan who consider them natives, scraps of paper, and sellto the simple virtues. Some of the Negroeswear to possess very extraordinary a

32

S TRAVELS

PARK

them

to

and

IN

the bite of snakes or alligators, guard themselves against is commonly enclosed in a this occasion the saphie on snake's or alhgator's skin,and tied round the ankle.

Others

to them

in time

have

recourse

of war, to protecttheir persons h ostile against weapons ; but the

use

common

apphed is to preserve from hunger cure bodilydiseases, to conciliatethe favour of superior generally these amulets

prevent or and and thirst,

to

powers In

to which

under all the circumstances and

occurrences

are

of life.*

not to admire the wonderful impossible of superstition that the majority notwithstanding contagion ; for, the doctrines of the Negroesare Pagans,and absolutely reject of Mahomet, I did not meet with a man, whether a Bushreen who was not fully or Kafir, persuadedof the powerfulefiicacy of these amulets. The truth is,that all the natives of this part of Africa consider the art of writing on as bordering magic; and it is not in the doctrines of the Prophet, but in the arts of the that their confidence is placed. It will hereafter be magician, that I was myselfluckyenough, in circumstances of distress, seen to turn the popular in this respectto good account. credulity On the 7th I departed from Konjour, and slept at a village calledMalla (orMallaing) ; and on the 8th,about noon, I arrived

this

case

it is

Kolor,a considerable town, near the entrance into which I observed, hangingupon a tree,a sort of masqueradehabit,made at

of the bark of trees,which I was told on enquiry belongedto This is a strangebugbear, MUMBO JUMBO. to all the common

Mandingotowns, and keepingtheir women restricted in the *

much

employedby the Pagan natives in in subjection ; for as the Kafirs are not number of their wives,every one marries as

I believe that similar charms

etc. etc., grijfetichj are

common

or amulets, under the in all partsof Africa.

names

of

domini, gri-

THE

he

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

33

maintain ; and as it frequently conveniently happensthat the ladies disagree family among themselves, quarrels sometimes rise to such a heightthat the authority of the husband can no longerpreserve peace in his household. In such cases, the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called in,and is alwaysdecisive. This strange minister of justice (who is supposedto be either the husband himself, or some person instructed by him), in the dress that has been mentioned, and armed with disguised the rod of public his coming(whenever his announces authority, in the woods services are required) by loud and dismal screams He beginsthe pantomime at the approach the town. of near night; and as soon as it is dark he enters the town, and proceeds to the Bentang,at which allthe inhabitants immediately many

as

can

assemble. be It may easily relished by the women

that the visit them, every married female suspects but theydare not refuse be intended for herself; possibly

unknown may

supposedthat thisexhibition is not much isentirely ; for as the person in disguise

to

to appear

when

with

and the ceremony mences comand dances,which continue till midnight,

theyare

songs

about which time Mumbo

summoned fixes

on

;

tunate the offender. This unfor-

seized,is stripped immediately beingthereupon with Mumbo's rod, naked,tied to a post,and severely scourged amidst the shouts and derision of the whole assembly ; and itis the loudest in their that the rest of the women are remarkable, this occasion againsttheir unhappy sister. exclamations on Daylight puts an end to this indecent and unmanlyrevel. As there was to be procuredon water Dec. 9th. no until we reached the road,we travelledwith great expedition the next morning, from thence early Tambacunda ; and departing in the evening, a tow^n of the 10th,we reached, Kooniakary, nearlythe same magnitudeas Kolor. About noon on the 11th of Woolli,towards arrived at Koojar,the frontier town we victim

"

?

park's

34

travels

in

wilderness by an intervening Bondou, from which it is separated of two days' journey. The guideappointed by the king of WooUi beingnow to amber for his trouble ; and him with some return, I presented at all times to having been informed that it was not possible I made enquiryfor men who procure water in the wilderness, would serve both as guidesand water-bearers duringmy journey offered their serit. Three Negroes,elephant-hunters, vices across and paidthem three for these purposes, which I accepted, bars each in advance,and the day beingfar spent,I determined to pass the nightin my presentquarters. The inhabitantsof Koojar, thoughnot whollyunaccustomed to the sightof Europeans (mostof them havingoccasionally visited the countries on the Gambia) beheld me with a mixture and reverence, and in the eveninginvited me to see of curiosity a neobering^ or match, at the Bentang. This is an wrestling in all the Mandingo countries. The exhibition very common diate arrangedthemselves in a circle, spectators leavingthe intermewho were strong active young men, space for the wrestlers, full of emulation, and accustomed, I suppose, from their infancy to this sort of exertion. Being stripped of their clothing, except short

pairof drawers,and havingtheir skin anointed with oil, shea butter, the combatants approachedeach other on all or with and occasionally fours, parrying a hand for some extending time,tillat lengthone of them sprang forward, and caughthis rival by the knee. Great dexterity and judgment were now but the contest was decided by superior displayed ; strength ; and I think that few Europeanswould have been able to cope a

with the conqueror. It must not be unobserved animated by the music of a drum, were actions were

in

that the

by

batants com-

which their

regulated. The wresthngwas succeeded by a dance, in which many allof whom performers assisted, were providedwith littlebells, which were fastened to their legsand arms ; and here,too, the some

measure

THE

INTERIOR

OF

35

AFRICA.

drum

their motions. It was beaten with a crooked regulated which the drummer held in his righthand, occasionally stick, usinghis left to deaden the sound,and thus vary the music. The drum is likewise applied these occasions to keep order on the spectators, the sound of certain Manby imitating among match is dingo sentences : for example,when the wrestling about to begin,the drummer strikes what is understood to all bee see, sit all down ; upon which the spectators signify the combatants are to seat themselves ; and when immediately begin,he strikes amuta amuta, take hold,take hold. of the eveningI was In the course presented, by way of with a liquorwhich tasted so much like the refreshment, strongbeer of my native country (andvery good beer,too),as into itscomposition with to induce me to inquire ; and I learnt, that it was made from com some degreeof surprise, actually which had been previously manner malted,much in the same is malted in Great Britain. A root yielding a grateas barley ful I of which have bitter was used in lieu of hops,the name which yields the wort is the holcm spicatus forgot ; but the com "

"

of botanists. I found Early in the morning (the12th), had absconded with the money elephant-hunters from

in

me

part of wages

;

and

from

had not travelled more

of the

he had received

prevent the other

them

filltheir instantly

made and

the wilderness that separatesthe Bondou. We

one

in order to

I his example, following calabashes (orgourds) with water, two

that

than

as

the

sun

kingdoms a

rose

I entered

of Woolli

mile before my

and

attendants

or charm, that theymightprepare a saphie stopping, a done by muttering to insure us a safe journey. This was thrown few sentences,and spitting upon a stone, which was three The same was before us on the road. repeated ceremony with the greatest confidence times,after which the Negroesproceeded that the stone (like persuaded being firmly ; every one

insisted on

park's

36

travels

in

that could induce had carried with it everything scape-goat) superior powers to visit us with misfortune. till We continued our journeywithout stopping any more to a largetree, called by the natives came we noon, when It had a very singular Taha, Neema being appearance, which perdecorated with innumerable rags or scraps of cloth, sons different had times the wilderness at tied across travelling to inform the traveller that at first, to the branches ; probably,

the

water

was

to be found

near

it ; but

the

has been

custom

so

sanctioned by time,that nobody now to pass greatly presumes without hangingup something. I followed the example, and a handsome suspended pieceof cloth on one of the boughs; and beingtold that either a well,or pool of water, was at no I ordered the Negroesto unload the asses that greatdistance, we might give them corn, and regaleourselves with the provisions had we brought. In the meantime I sent one of the hunters to look for the well,intending, if water was elephant to be obtained, to rest here for the night. A poolwas found, but the water was thick and muddy, and the Negro discovered it the remains of a fire recently near and the extinguished, of provisions fragments ; which afforded a proofthat it had been visited either by travellers or banditti. The lately fears of that robbers my attendants supposedthe latter; and believing lurked near persuadedto change my resolution of us, I was here all night, and proceedto another watering-place, resting which I was assured we mightreach early in the evening. We departed but it was accordingly, eighto'clock at night before we to the watering-place came sujQS; and being now with so longa day's ciently fatigued kindled a large we journey, and lay down, surrounded by our fire, the bare on cattle, than a gun-shotfrom ground,more the Negroes any bush agreeingto keep watch by turns to prevent surprise. I know not indeed that to be dreaded, any dangerwas justly but the Negroeswere of banditti unaccountably apprehensive "

INTERIOR

THE

the

during appeared,

we

set

reached

that

and

that

was

custom

palatable

at

I

however,

first

of

night

the

;

unpleasant

day and to

in

the

take

of

received

generally the

yet

I

13th

the

natives

alleviated African

mode

at

length

made

of

without

Woolli,

found and

which

(the

by

the

at

Bondou,

forenoon

although me,

in

leave

were

daylight

as

calabashes

town

trifling inconveniences, easy.

and

first

well

everywhere

was

at

the

therefore

soon

(skins)

o'clock

eleven

fatigues

surmounted and

Tallika,

cannot,

welcome

hearty living

the

soofroos

37

AFRICA.

As

journey.

our

about I

the

for

out

December). observing

of

filled

we

and

pool,

whole

OF

;

by

a

of that

everything

park's

38

travels

CHAPTEE Some account

in

IV. The Author

ofthe mhahitants of Tallika "

forFatteconda Incidentson the road Arrives at Koorkarany Reaches the that river Proceeds alongits hank on

Crosses the Neriko

"

"

"

"

proceeds

river Faleme to

Naye or

Grosses the Faleme,and arrives at Fatteconda with Almami, the sovereign ofBondou

"

"

Fishery Nayemow "

"

Has

an

view inter-

of Description the the king's king, dwellingHas a second interview with wives Is Author visitsthe king's who begsthe Author s coat terms to departon Journeyhy night friendly permitted tants, Arrives at Joag Some account of Bondou and its inhabi"

"

"

"

"

"

"

the Foulahs.

J_ALLIKA, the frontier town of Bondou towards Woolli,is who inhabited chiefly by Foulahs of the Mahomedan religion, live in considerable affluence, provisions partlyby furnishing to the coffles, or caravans, that pass throughthe town, and partlyby the sale of ivory,obtained by huntingelephants ; in which employmentthe young cessful. men are generally very sucHere, an officer belongingto the king of Bondou whose business it is to givetimelyinformation resides, constantly of the arrival of the caravans, which are taxed according to the number

of loaded

I took up my

asses

residence at this officer's house,and

with him to accompany king,for which he was

I departure

wrote

letter to the master

that arrive at Tallika.

a

of

me

to

agreed

the residence of the Fatteconda,

receive five bars ; and before my few lines to Dr. Laidley, and gave my to

a

caravan

bound

for the Gambia.

This

THE

INTERIOR

caravan

consisted of nine

with

ivory. The largeteeth

side of the

ass

;

secured with ropes. Dec. 14th. AVe for about two

are

ones

left Tallika, and

"

miles,when

a

39

AFRICA.

peoplewith five asses loaded conveyedin nets,two on each and are wrapped up in skins,

ten

or

the small

OF

rode

on

violent quarrel arose

of my fellow-travellers, of whom one the course of which theybestowed some

peaceably

very

between

two

in blacksmith, terms upon opprobrious

was

the

each other ; and it is worthy of remark, that an African will blow than a term of reproach sooner a forgive appliedto his ancestors.

Strike me,

" "

but

even expression so therefore, enragedone common

do

not

is a my mother,'' This sort of abuse,

curse

the slaves.

among

of the

cutlass upon the blacksmith, and in a very serious manner, dispute

that he disputants, would certainly have

drew

his

ended the

if the others had not laidhold

of him, and wrested the cutlass from

to obliged and put an end to this disagreeable interfere, business, by desiring the blacksmith to be silent, and telling the other,who I thought in the wTong, that if he attemptedin future to draw his was

I

him.

was

I should look upon him or molest any of my cutlass, attendants, This shoot him without further ceremony. as a robber,and and we marched sullenly threat had the desired effect, alongtill the afternoon, arrived at a number of small villages when we called scattered over an open and fertileplain. At one of these,

Ganado, we took up our exchangeof presentsand among

my

residence for the a

good supper

attendants ; and the thoughtof going to

before any of us man,'^who by an itinerant singing and playedsome stories, a

sweet

These

songs in

are

a

sort of

praiseof those

givenhereafter.

ties terminated allanimosi-

nightwas sleep. We

told

an

a

number

far advanced were

of

amused

diverting

airs, by blowinghis breath upon

and striking it at the bowstring, *

night. Here

same

time with

a

stick.

who singextempore bards and musicians, travelling

who

employ them.

A fulleraccount

of them will be

park's

40 Dec. 15th.

At

"

daybreakmy

a

in

-

the Serafellow-travellers, many prayers for my safety.

leave of me, with mile from Ganado,we crossed

took woollies,

About

travels

a

considerable branch of

The banks were the Gambia, called Neriko. with mimosas ; and I observed in the mud

mussels,but the natives do not eat them.

and covered steep, a

number

About

noon,

of

large

the

sun

hot,we rested two hours in the shade of a beingexceedingly milk and pounded corn from some tree,and purchasedsome called KoorFoulah herdsmen,and at sunset reached a town karany,where the blacksmith had some relations; and here we rested two days. town, surrounded by a high Koorkaranyis a Mahomedan with a mosque. Here I was shown a wall,and is provided number of Arabic manuscripts, of the book a copy particularly before mentioned called Al Shara. The Maraboo or priest, in whose possession itwas, read and explained to me, in Mandingo, of the most

remarkable passages ; and in return him Richardson'sArabic grammar, which he very much On the eveningof the second day (Dec.17th)we

many

from

Koorkarany. We

were

six small stones diminish

here

admired.

departed

joinedby a young man who was for salt;and as night set in we about three miles from Koorkarany. village

were

to Fatteconda travelling reached Dooggii, a small

Provisions

I showed

so

cheapthat I purchased a

of amber ; for I found my

company

bullock for increase

or

to the good fare theymet with. according Dec. 18th. Earlyin the morningwe departed from Dooggi, and beingjoinedby a number of Foulahs and other people, made a formidable appearance, and were under no apprehension of beingplundered in the woods. About eleven o'clock of the asses one the Negroes took a provingvery refractory, curious method to make him tractable. They cut a forked and putting the forked part into the ass's mouth, like the stick, bit of a bridle, tied the two smaller parts together above his "

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

41

the lower part of the stick of sufficientlength head,leaving to strike against the ground if the ass should attempt to put his head down. After this, the ass walked alongquietly and gravely to hold hishead sufficientl enough, taking practice, care, aftersome highto preventthe stones or roots of trees from striking against the end of the stick, which experience had taughthim would givea severe shock to his teeth. This contrivance produceda ludicrous appearance,

but my fellow-travellerstold me it was and alwaysprovedeffectual. adoptedby the Slatees, constantly In the

eveningwe

arrived

few scattered

rounded survillages, with extensive cultivation; at one of which, called we Buggil, passedthe nightin a miserable hut,havingno other bed than a bundle of corn stalks, and no provisions but what w^e The wells here are dug with greatingenuity, broughtwith us. and are very deep. I measured one and of the bucket-ropes, found the depthof the well to be twenty-eight fathoms. Dec. 19th. We departedfrom Buggil, and travelled along w^hen till mid-day, covered with mimosas, a dry,stony height, the land sloped towards the east, and we descended into a deep in which I observed abundance of w^hin-stone and white valley, to the eastward, alongthis valley, quartz. Pursuingour course to a large in the bed of an exhausted river course, we came where we intended to lodge. We found many of the village, natives dressed in a thin French gauze, w^hich theycalled hyqui; the this being a light airydress,and w^ellcalculated to display shapeof their persons, is much esteemed by the ladies. The with of these females,however, did not correspond manners their dress, rude and troublesome in the highest for theywere degree; theysurrounded me in numbers, beggingfor amber, that I in their solicitations, so vehement beads,etc.,and were found it impossible to resist them. They tore my cloak,cut the buttons from my proceedingto boy'sclothes,and were

at

a

"

other outrages, when for half a mile by a

I mounted

my

horse and rode

body of these harpies.

off,followed

pake's

42-

In the

in

travels

reached Soobrudooka,and

evening we

as

my

pany com-

and I purchased a sheep, (beingfourteen), abundance of corn for supper ; after which we laydown by the bundles,and passedan uncomfortable nightin a heavy dew. Dec. 20th. We departedfrom Soobrudooka,and at two situated on the banks of the o'clock reached a largevillage natives Faleme river,which is here rapidand rocky. The The largefish were in various ways. were employedin fishing in a strong taken in longbaskets made of split cane, and placed the created by walls of stone built across current,which was throughwhich the water beingleft, stream, certain open places was

numerous

"

of these baskets

great force. Some than twenty feet long,and when of them, the force of the stream

rushed

The

with

small fish

in

the fish had entered

once

one

it from returning. prevented in

great numbers

hand-nets,

of cotton,and use with greatdexterity. and are fish last mentioned are about the size of sprats,

which the natives The

taken

were

more

were

weave

preparedfor sale

poundingthem wooden

in diflerent ways, entire as they come

mortar, and

exposingthem

lumps like sugar loaves. not very agreeable ; but

the most from

the

It may be in the Moorish

by

in

stream

dry in the sun, supposedthat the

to

is

common

in

a

large

smell is

countries to the north

of the

where fish is scarcely Senegal, known, this preparation is esteemed and sold to considerable advantage. as a luxury, The manner of usingit by the natives is, of a piece by dissolving this black loaf in boiling water, and mixingitwith theirJcouskous. I thoughtit very singular, of the year, to at this season find the banks of the Faleme everywhere covered with large and beautiful fieldsof corn, but

the

on

examination

I found it was

of grainas is commonly cultivated on the species Gambia ; it is called by the natives Mamo, and grows in the and is reaped in the month of dry season ; is very prolific, January. It is the same which, from the dependingposition of the ear, is called by botanical writers holcus cernuus.

not

same

THE

INTERIOR

OF

43

AFRICA.

On

after an excursion to the river to the village, returning side to inspectthe fishery, old Moorish shereef came an to bestow his blessing upon me, and beg some paper to write This man had seen saphiesupon. Major Houghton in the kingdom of Kaarta,and told me that he died in the countryof the Moors.

I gave him a few sheets of paper, and he levied a similartribute from the blacksmith ; for itis customaryfor young

Mussulmans

to make

presents to the old

their blessing, which is pronouncedin

ones

in order to obtain

and received with Arabic,

great humility. About

three in the afternoon

the bank of the we

reached

received

us

"

over

knees

continued

our

course

along

when northward,tilleighto'clock,

of the town master Nayemow ; here the hospitable and presented with a bullock. In return, us kindly,

I gave him some Dec. 21st. carry

to the river,

we

my

amber In

and beads.

morning,havingagreedfor a canoe bundles,I crossed the river,which came up

I sat

the

to

to

horse ; but the water is so clear, that from the highbank the bottom is visibleall the w^ay over. my

About and

in

a

as

noon

on

we

my

entered

littletime

the capital of Bondou Fatteconda,

received

invitation to the house of

an

; a

in Africa, public-houses it is customary for strangersto stand at the Bentang,or some other placeof public tilltheyare invited to a lodging by resort, and in of the inhabitants. We an some acceptedthe offer, that he was sent hour afterwards, and told me came a person to the king,who was on very desirous purpose to conduct me of seeing if I was not too much fatigued. me immediately, I took my interpreter with me, and followed the messenger fields: tillwe got quiteout of the town, and crossed some corn and asked the guide when some trick,I stopped, suspecting to a man whither he was going. Upon which he pointed sitting under a tree at some littledistance ; and told me that the king in order to frequently gave audience in that retired manner,

Slatee ; respectable

for

as

there

are

no

park's

44

in

travels

but myselfand my people ; and that nobody I advanced,the king must approachhim. When interpreter and sit by him upon the mat ; and after to come desned me he asked hearingmy story,on which he made no observation, in or gold: beinganswered if I wished to purchase any slaves, but desired me to he seemed rather surprised, the negative, some in the evening,and he would giveme to him visions. procome

avoid

a

of

crowd

though told that he was not a Mahomedan, but a Kafir,or Pagan. I was I had heard that he had acted towards Major Houghton with great unkindness, and caused him to be plundered. His towards myselfat this interview, though therefore, behaviour, from far from freeing civil than I expected, much more me was double dealing uneasiness. I still apprehendedsome ; and as in his power, I thoughtit best to smooth I was now entirely in the I took with me the way by a present; accordingly amber,tobacco,and evening,one canister of gunpowder,some umbrella; and as I considered that my bundles Avould my be searched, I concealed some few articlesin the roof inevitably of the hut where I lodged, blue coat, in and I put on my new This monarch

"

was

called Almami,

order to preserve it. All the houses belonging to the surrounded a

kind

courts.

with

a

presence

by

a

mud lofty

of citadel. The

wall,which

and and

Moorish

very

on

his

king and

his shoulder ; and

into different

in which the

standing

a man

I found the way

intricate, leadingthroughmany

of the court

familyare

the whole into

converts

At the firstplaceof entrance I observed musket

name,

interior is subdivided

sentinels placedat the difierentdoors. entrance

a

When

to

the

passages, with we

to

came

both kingresides,

my

the

guide

accordingto custom, took off"their sandals ; interpreter, the former pronouncedthe king's it name aloud,repeating

till he

was

sitting upon

answered a

from

mat, and

two

within.

We

found

attendants with him.

the monarch I

repeated

THE

INTERIOR

OF

45

AFRICA.

I had before told him

what

the object of my journey, concerning and my reasons for passingthroughhis country. He seemed, however,but half satisfied. The notion of travelling for curiosity was he said, quitenew to him. He thoughtit impossible, that in his senses would undertake so dangerous any man a journey, merelyto look at the country and its inhabitants; however, when and

I offered to show

him

the contents

to me, everything belonging

evident that his white

of

must

man

had suspicion be necessity

a

of my

portmanteau,

he

convinced ; and it was was arisen from a belief that every trader.

When

I had delivered

and was presents,he seemed well pleased, particularly w ith the which he furled and umbrella, delighted repeatedly to the greatadmiration of himself and his two attendants unfurled, ; my

who could not for some machine.

time

After this I

comprehendthe

of thiswonderful

use

about to take my

leave,when the to stop awhile,began a long preamble in me king,desiring favour of the whites, their immense wealth and good extolling He dispositions.

coat, of which the his

was

proceededto an eulogiumon my blue to catch yellowbuttons seemed particularly concluded by entreating to present him me next

fancy; and he with it ; assuring me, that he would who

one

saw

request of when is

made

an

to

for my consolation under the loss of it, it on all public and inform every occasions,

wear

it,of

towards him. The great liberality in his own African prince, dominions, particularly a

my

comes stranger,

Httle short of

a

command.

It

what he can, if he by gentlemeans obtaining take by force ; and as it was pleases, againstmy interest to I very quietly offend him by a refusal, took off my coat,the and laid it at his feet. onlygood one in my possession, with great In return for my compliance, he presented me and desired to see me again in the plentyof provisions, attended,and found him sitting morning. I accordingly upon

only a

his bed.

way

He

of

told

me

blood taken from him

he ;

was

sick,and wished

but I had

no

sooner

to have

tied up

a

littk^

his arm,

park's

46

and me

travels

in

and he begged than his courage failed, the lancet, displayed self, he felthimtillthe afternoon, as to postponethe operation

said,much

he

kindlyfor

my

better than

readiness to

serve

he had

him.

been, and thanked He

then

me

observed that

that I very desirous to see me, and requested ordered to would favour them with a visit. An attendant was

his

were

women

entered the court appropriated conduct me, and I had no sooner surrounded me, some than the whole seragKo to the ladies, ging begfor amber, and allof them desirous of tryfor physic, some ing

They were hlood-letting. greatAfrican specific, twelve in number, most of them young and handsome,and that

ten

or

ing wear-

gold,and beads of amber. jects, differentsubon They ralHed me with a good deal of gaiety nency particularly upon the whiteness of my skin,and the promiartificial. of my nose. They insisted that both were The first, an infant, theysaid,was producedwhen I was by in milk ; and they insistedthat my nose had been me dipping and its presentunsightly pinchedevery day,tillit had acquired unnatural conformation. On my part,without disputing my I paid them own deformity, complimentson African many the glossy beauty. I praised jetof their skins,and the lovely of their noses or depression (as ; but they said that flattery, termed it)honey-mouth, not esteemed in was theyemphatically In return, however, for my company Bondou. or my ments compli(towhich,by the way, they seemed not so insensible as with a jarof honey and me they affectedto be),theypresented which were sent to my lodging, desired to some and I was fish, come againto the king a littlebefore sunset. I carried with me beads and writingpaper, it being some usual to present some small off'ering on takingleave,in return for which the kinggave me five drachms of gold, that observing it was and givenout of pure friendship, but a trifle, but would be of use to me in travelling for the purchase He of provision. seconded this act of kindness by one still telling politely greater, on

their heads ornaments

of

THE

INTERIOR

OF

47

AFRICA.

that

thoughit was customary to examine the baggageof every travellerpassingthroughhis country,yet,in the present he would dispense with that ceremony ; adding, I was instance, at liberty when I pleased. to depart the morningof the 23d,we left Fatteconda, on Accordingly, and about eleven o'clock came to a small village, where we determined to stop for the rest of the day.

me,

In the afternoon my

this was

the

fellow-travellersinformed

boundarybetween

it would for travellers,

Bondou

and

me,

that

Kajaaga,and

be necessary to continue

as

gerous dan-

journey we a more by hospitable part of the country. I agreedto the proposal, and hired two people for guidesthroughthe woods ; and as soon of the as the people were set we village shiningbright), gone to sleep(themoon The stillnessof the air,the howlingof the wild beasts, out. made the scene and the deep solitude of the forest, solemn and impressive.Not a word was uttered by any of us but in a and every one anxious to show his whisper; all were attentive, the wolves and hyaenas out to me as they by pointing sagacity, glidedlike shadows from one thicket to another. Towards called Kimmoo, where our guides morningwe arrived at a village and we awakened of their acquaintances, one stoppedto give for ourselves. the asses some corn, and roast a few ground-nuts resumed and in the afternoon At daylight our we journey, arrived at Joag in the kingdom of Kajaaga. in many differing Beingnow in a countryand among a people from those that have as yet fallenunder our observation, respects of Bondou account before I proceedfurther, I shall, givesome the Foulahs, the have left), and its inhabitants, we (theterritory reserved for thispartof my work. of whom I purposely description east Bondou is bounded on the east by Bambouk ; on the southand south by Tenda, and the Simbani Wilderness ; on the south-west by WooUi ; on the west by Foota Torra ; and on the north,by Kajaaga. night,until

should reach

our

park's

48

travels

in

covered country,like that of Woolli,is very generally and towards the elevated, with woods, but the land is more The

river,rises into considerable hills. In native fertility I believe, the soilis not surpassed, by any part of Africa. Faleme

Bondou, between the Gambia it is become a placeof great resort ; both and Senegalrivers, who generally for the Slatees, pass throughit,in going from the coast to the interior countries ; and for occasional traders, hither from the inland countries, to purwho frequently come chase the central situation of

From

salt.

differentbranches of

These

commerce

who by Mandingoesand Serawoollies, These

country. trade with

merchants

Gedumah,

and

conducted

are

pally princi-

have settled in the

likewise carry on a considerable other Moorish countries, bartering

which theyagainbarter in and blue cotton cloths for salt, Dentilla and other districtsfor iron,shea-butter, and small

com

of gold-dust.They likewise sella variety of sweetquantities each about packedup in small bags,containing smelling gums These gums, a pound. being thrown on hot embers,produce a very pleasant odour,and are used by the Mandingoesfor perfuming their huts and clothes. The

customs, or duties

are travellers,

heavy: in almost every town an ass-load pays a bar of Europeanmerchandize the residence of the king,one Indian ; and at Fatteconda, baft,or a musket, and six bottlesof gunpowder,are exacted as tribute. By means of these duties, common a the king of Bondou is well supplied with arms and ammunition ; a circumstance which makes him formidable to the neighbouring states. The inhabitants differ in their complexionsand national from the Mandingoesand SerawoolHes, manners with whom at war. Some they are frequently years ago the king of Bondou

crossed the Faleme

after a short and

on

river with

a

very

numerous

army,

and

defeated the forces of bloodycampaign totally Samboo, king of Bambouk, who was obligedto sue for peace,

THE

and

INTERIOR

OF

49

AFRICA.

surrender to liim all the towns

alongthe

eastern

bank of

the Faleme. The

Foulahs

of are chapter) soft silky hair ;

general(ashas been observed in a former with small features, a and tawny complexion, next to the Mandingoesthey are undoubtedly in

the most

considerable of all the nations in this part of Africa. Their original country is said to be Fooladoo,which signifies

the country of the Foulahs ; but they possess at present many other kingdoms at a great distance from each other; their

however, is complexion, districts;

in

Bondou

not

and

the exactly the

same

in the different

other

situated in the

kingdoms which territories, theyare

are

of the Moorish of a vicinity than in the southern states. more yellowcomplexion The Foulahs of Bondou are naturally of a mild and gentle but the uncharitable maxims of the Koran have disposition, made them less hospitable reserved in to strangers,and more their behaviour than the Mandingoes. They evidently consider all the Negro natives as their inferiors; and when talking of different nations,always rank themselves among the white people. Their government differs from that of the Mandingoes in this,that they are more immediatelyunder the chiefly laws : for all the chief men influence of the Mahomedan (the of the inhabitants of Bondou, and a large majority kingexcepted) and laws of the Prophetare are Mussulmans,and the authority cise everywherelooked upon as sacred and decisive. In the exerof their faith, however, theyare not very intoleranttowards retain their ancient superstitions such of their countrymen as still is not known them, nor is it Religious persecution among necessary ; for the

by

means

system of Mahomet

efficacious.

abundantlymore

schools in the differenttowTis,where as

Mahomedan

children

many

to

extend

itself

small By establishing of the Pagan as well

taughtto read the Koran, and the Mahomedan the Prophet, priests

are

instructed in the tenets of

is made

park's

50

travels

in

the minds, and form the character of their young which no accidents of hfe can ever afterwards remove disciples, or alter. Many of these littleschools I visited in my progress

fix

a

bias

on

through the country, and observed with pleasurethe great and heartily and submissive deportmentof the children, docility wished they had had better instructors and a purer religion. With

faith is also introduced the Arabic

the Mahomedan

language,with which

most

of

the

Foulahs

have

slight much in Uquids, of pronouncing a

The native tongue abounds very acquaintance. in the manner but there is somethingunpleasant conversation of two it. A stranger on hearingthe common each other. Foulahs,would imaginethat theywere scolding of pasturage of the Foulahs,in the occupations The industry Even on the banks remarkable. is everywhere and agriculture, is raised by them ; of the Gambia, the greaterpart of the corn

and

their herds and

flocks

are

more

numerous

and

in better

Mandingoes; but in Bondou they and enjoyallthe necessaries of life are opulentin a highdegree, in the greatest profusion. They displaygreat skill in the management of their cattle, gentleby making them extremely kindness and familiarity. On the approachof night, theyare collected from the woods, and secured in folds, called korrees, which are constructed in the neighbourhood of the different villages.In the middle of each korree is erected a small hut, wherein one of the herdsmen or two keep watch during the to prevent the cattlefrom being stolen, and to keep up night, the fires which are kindled round the korree to frighten away condition than

those of the

the wild beasts. The

cattle are

milked

in the

: the morningsand evenings milk is excellent ; but the quantity obtained from any one cow 5s by no means so great as in Europe. The Foulahs use the milk chiefly articleof diet, and that, as an not until it is quite The cream sour. which it affordsis very thick, and is converted into butter by stirring it violently in a largecalabash. This

INTERIOR

THE

when

butter, is

in

preserved

their

dishes

bestowed

that

with

an

solid

seems

the

they to

of of

of

climate

and

long

in

of

most

heads,

and

is

arms.

somewhat

is

it

remarkable

inhabitants the

of of

art

their

this

the

and

troublesome,

the

to

them

like

tion. innovaof

scarcity

great ;

cheese.

makes

looks

be

of

part

making

ancestors, that

objections and

their

and

impurities,

part

a

anoint

everything

unanswerable too

with

customs

prejudice the

the

from

whole

salt,

process

attended

with

advantage.

Besides

Foulahs,

as

them

to

appears

the

to

heat

all

unacquainted

eye

forth

held

indeed

freed

forms

faces

plentiful,

is

and

attachment

firm

The

any

milk

to

their

on

and

pots,

likewise

liberally

totally

are

earthen

51

AFRICA.

fire, and

gentle

a

serves

Foulahs,

Africa,

are

it

;

although

the

view

over

small

very

But

A

melted

OF

be

cattle, possess

a

mixture

which

excellent

some

of

constitute

the

Arabian

the

horses, with

chief the the

wealth breed

original

of of

the

which

African.

park's

52

travels

in

V.

CHAPTEE

and language ofKajaaga Seraiooollies Their manners and robbed of Account ofJoag The Author is ill-treated, of halfof his effects, by order of Batcheri^the king Charity The is Demba visitedby slave Author a female Sego,nephew to conduct him in safety to of the kingof Kasson, who offers that kingdom Offer acceptedThe Author and his protector^

Account

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

with

a

banks

numerous

"

set retinue^

out

and

reach

Samee^ on the the Kayee,and^ crossing

of the SenegalProceed to arrive in the kingdomofKasson, Senegal^ "

is arrived, kingdom of Kajaaga,in which I was now called by the French Gallam ; but the name that I have adopted used by the natives. This country is bounded is universally the west the south-east and south by Bambouk on by ; on and Foota Bondou Torra ; and on the north by the river Senegal. The air and climate are, I believe, more pure and salubrious X

HE

any of the settlements towards the coast ; the face of with a pleasing the country is everywhereinterspersed variety than

at

of hills and

valleys ; and

the

windingsof the Senegalriver, which descends from the rockyhillsof the interior, make the and beautiful. scenery on its banks very picturesque The inhabitants are called SerawooUies, or (as the French write it)Seracolets, Their complexion is a jetblack ; they are in this respectfrom the JalofFs. not to be distinguished The government is monarchical ; and the regalauthority, from what I experienced of it, to be sufficiently formidable. seems

THE

INTERIOR

53

AFRICA.

OF

however, complainof no oppression, peoplethemselves, and seemed all very anxious to supportthe king,in a contest he was goingto enter into with the sovereign of Kasson. The Sera woollies are habitually a tradingpeople;they formerly with the French in gold and carried on a great commerce and stillmaintain some trafficin slaves with the British slaves, fair and factorieson the Gambia. They are reckoned tolerably in their exertions to justin their deahngs,but are indefatigable wealth,and theyderive considerable profits by the sale acquire The

of salt and

cotton

woolli merchant

cloth in distant countries.

returns

home

arrival.

these occasions the

On

a

Sera-

the tradingexpedition, him upon his to congratulate his wealth traveller displays

from

assemble neighboursimmediately

When

a

by making a few^ presentsto his friends; but if liberality, his levee is soon he has been unsuccessful, over, and every one who could perof no understanding, looks upon him as a man form hack and (astheyexpress it)bring nothing a longjourney, and

hut the hair upon his head. abounds Their language

much

in

and gutturals,

is not

so

spokenby the Foulahs ; it is,however,well worth acquiring by those who travel throughthis part of the understood in the African continent;it being very generally kingdomsof Kasson, Kaarta,Ludamar, and the northern parts harmonious

as

of Bambarra.

that

In all these countries the Serawoollies

are

the

chief traders. We

arrived at

Joag,the

frontiertown

of this

kingdom,on

of December, and took up our residence at the house of the chief man, who is here no longerknown by the titleof

the 24th

Alhaid, but is called the Booty, He

was

a

rigidMahomedan,

be for his hospitahty.This town may distinguished to contain tw^o thousand supposed,on a gross computation, It is surrounded by a highwall,in which are a inhabitants. in case of of port holes, for musketry to fire through, number is likewise surrounded by a attack. Every man s possession an

but

park's

54

in

travels

#

wall

the whole

"

formingso

with peopleunacquainted

many

the

use

and amongst distinctcitadels; these walls answer of artillery,

a

all the purposes of strongerfortifications. To the westward of the banks of which the natives is a small river, the town on of tobacco and onions. raise greatplenty The

the

eveningMadiboo from Pisania, went

same me

Bushreen,who had

to pay

a

panied accom-

visit to his father and

called Dramanet. town mother, who dwelt at a neighbouring the blacksmith ; and as He was joined by my other attendant, bitants, soon as it was dark,I was invited to see the sportsof the inhait being their custom, on the arrival of strangers,

by diversions of different kinds. 1 found a great crowd a dancingby the surrounding party who were of some to the music of four drums,which were light largefires, beat with great exactness ever, and uniformity.The dances,howto

welcome

them

consisted more or

in wanton

gesturesthan

attitudes. The graceful

the displaying

most

Dec. 25th. "

of horsemen

in muscular

ladies vied with each other in

movements voluptuous

About

two

imaginable. morning a number lord, havingawakened my land-

o'clock in the

into the town, and talked to him for some time in the SerawooUi

after which

tion exer-

came

theydismounted

and

tongue,

the

Bentang,on which I had made my bed. One of them,thinkingthat I was asleep, attemptedto steal the musket that layby me on the mat ; but finding that he could not effecthis purpose undiscovered, he desisted, and the strangerssat down by me tilldaylight. I

could

came

to

of my perceive, easily by the countenance interpreter Johnson, that somethingvery unpleasantwas in agitation.I was likewise surprisedto see Madiboo and the blacksmith so soon returned. On inquiring the reason, Madiboo informed me, that as theywere dancingat Dramanet,ten horsemen belonging to Batcheri, king of the country,with his second son at their head,had arrived there,inquiring if the now

-

THE

INTERIOR

OF

65

AFRICA.

"

white

had

passed,and on beingtold that I was at Joag, ing theyrode off without stopping.Madiboo added,that on hearhe and the blacksmith hastened back to giveme notice this, of their coming. Whilst I was listening the to this narrative, ten horsemen mentioned by Madiboo arrived ; and coming to the Bentang,dismounted and seated themselves with those who had come before,the whole being about twenty in number, forminga circleround me, and each man holdinghis musket in his hand. I took this opportunity to observe to my landlord, that as I did not understand the SerawooUi tongue,I hoped, whatever the men had to say, theywould speakin Mandingo. able To this theyagreed; and a short man, loaded with a remarknumber of saphies, opened the business in a very long harangue,informingme that I had entered the king'stown without having firstpaid the duties, or givenany presentto the king,and that,according to the laws of the country,my forfeited. He added, that and baggage,were cattle, people, theyhad received orders from the kingto conduct me to Maana,* with them, and if I refused to come the placeof his residence, their orders were to bringme by force ; upon his sayingwhich, if I was all of them rose up and asked me ready. It would to have resisted have been equally vain and imprudentin me I thereforeaffected to comply or irritatedsuch a body of men. until with their commands, and beggedthem onlyto stopa little I had givenmy horse a feed of corn, and settled matters with man

The

landlord.

my

son, mistook

poor

who blacksmith,

for this feignedcompliance

was a

a

native of Kas-

and real intention, that he had always

from the company, told me and he as ifI had been his father and master, me ing, ruin him by going to Maana ; addhoped I would not entirely would soon that as there was to believe a war reason

takingme

away behaved towards

every

take *

the

placebetween Maana

is within

Kasson a

and

Kajaaga,he

should not

short distance of the ruins of Fort

a French factory. formerly Senegalriver,

St.

only

on Joseph,

park's

66

the lose his littleproperty,

in

travels

savingsof

four

but years' industry,

unless his friends be detained and sold as a slave, certainly of payingtwo slaves for his redemption.I had an opportunity and determined to do my this reasoningin its full force, saw

should

to preserve

utmost

therefore told the

the blacksmith from

king'sson

that I

was

so

dreadful

readyto

a

fate.

go with

I

him,

who was inhabitant of a an upon condition that the blacksmith, unconnected with me, should be distant kingdom,and entirely

To this theyallobjected, allowed to stayat Joag tillmy return. and insistedthat,as we had all acted contrary to the laws,we answerable for our conduct. all equally were I

now

took my

landlord aside,and

small sent precriticala situation.

givinghim

a

gunpowder,asked his advice in so of opinionthat I oughtnot to go to the king. He was decidedly He was that if the kingshould discover convinced,he said, fully he would not be over scrupulous anythingvaluable in my possession, about the means of obtaining it. This made the me solicitousto conciliate matters with the king'speople; more and I began by observing, that what I had done did not proceed from any want of respecttowards the king,nor from any wish to violate his laws,but whollyfrom my own and inexperience with the laws ignorance, beinga stranger, totally unacquainted and customs of their country. I had indeed entered the king's frontier without knowing that I was hand, to pay the duties beforebut I was readyto pay them now, which I thoughtwas all they could reasonably demand. I then tendered them, as a present to the king,the five drachms of goldwhich the king of Bondou had givenme ; this theyaccepted, but insisted on examining which I opposed in vain. The bundles my baggage, were in not finding opened,but the men were much disappointed in them so much gold and amber as they expected. They made however,by takingwhatever things up the deficiency, theyfancied ; and after wranglingand debatingwith me till sunset,theydeparted, havingfirstrobbed me of half my goods. of

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

57

These

and our fortitudewas proceedings dispirited my people, not strengthened by a very indifferent supper, after a longfast. Madiboo begged me to turn back ; Johnson laughedat the without money, and the blacksmith was thoughtsof proceeding afraid to be seen, or even lest any one should discover to speak, In this disposition him to be a native of Kasson. we passed the side situation the nightby of a dim fire, and our the next to procure providay was very perplexing.It was impossible sions if I without money, and I knew that producedany beads or amber, the king would immediatelyhear of it,and I should probablylose the few effects I had concealed. We therefore able favourresolved to combat hungerfor the day,and wait some of purchasing or beggingprovisions. opportunity ing chewTowards evening, as I was sitting upon the Bentang, straws, an old female slave passing by with a basket upon As I thoughtshe her head,asked me tf I had got my dinner. onlylaughedat me, I gave her no answer ; but my boy, who close by, answered for me, and told her that the was sitting On hearing king'speoplehad robbed me of all my money. with a look of unaffected benevolence, the good old woman, this, took the basket from her head, and showing me immediately if I could eat them ; that it contained groundnuts, asked me with a few she presented me beinganswered in the affirmative, and walked away before I had time to thank her for handfuls, circumstance this seasonable supply. This trifling gave me the conduct on satisfaction. I reflectedwith pleasure peculiar of this poor untutored slave,who, without examininginto my to the dictates of listened imphcntly character or circumstances, had taughther that hungerwas heart. Experience her own and her own distressesmade her commiserate those of painful, others. The

that of

mation leftme, when I received inforscarcely the Mandingo king nephew of Demba Sego Jalla, coming to pay me a visit. He had been sent

old woman a

Kasson, was

had

park's

58

in

travels

embassyto Batcheri,king of Kajaaga,to endeavour to his uncle and the which had arisen between settle the disputes latter; but after debatingthe matter four dayswithout success, his return ; and hearingthat a white man was he was now on his way to Kasson, curiosity at Joag, on broughthim to see when I represented to him my situation and distresses, me. and said he would be my offered me his protection, he frankly I would set out the next morning), guideto Kasson (provided and gratefully and be answerable for my safety. I readily with my attendants, and was ready, his offer, by daylight accepted the morningof the 27th of December. on Demba whose name was My protector, Sego,probablyafter his uncle,had a numerous retinue. Our company at leaving Joag,consisted of thirty persons and six loaded asses ; and we rode on cheerfully enoughfor some hours,without any remarkable until we of tree,for which my to a species came occurrence, had made frequent Johnson interpreter inquiry.On finding which it,he desired us to stop; and producing a white chicken, he had purchasedat Joag for the purpose, he tied it by the leg of the branches, and then told us we might now to one safely This proceed,for that our journeywould be prosperous. circumstance is mentioned merelyto illustratethe disposition of and to show the power the Negroes, of superstition their over minds ; for although had resided seven this man years in England, it was evident that he stillretained the prejudices and notions he had imbibed in his youth. He meant this ceremony, he told of the woods, who or sacrificeto the spirits me, as an offering of beingsof a white colour, with were, he said,a powerfulrace but could not condemn longflowinghair. I laughedat his folly, the pietyof his motives. At noon had reached Gungadi,a largetown, where we we of the asses that had fallen stoppedabout an hour,until some on

an

behind a

came

mosque

up.

Here

built of

I observed

clay,with

a

number

six turrets,on

of date trees,and of the pinnacles

THE

which

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

59

placedsix ostrich eggs. A Httle before sunset we arrived at the town of Samee, on the banks of the Senegal, which is here a beautiful, but shallow river, moving slowlyover bed sand of and gravel. The banks are highand covered with a verdure ; the country is open and cultivated, and the rocky hillsof Felow and Bambouk add much to the beautyof the landscape. Dec. 28th. We departedfrom Samee, and arrived in the afternoon at Kayee, a largevillage, part of which is situated were

"

the north,and part on the south side of the river. A little above this placeis a considerable cataract,where the river flows on

ledgeof whin-stone rock,with great force ; below this, the river is remarkably black and deep; and here it was posed proand firing After hallooing to make our cattle swim over. some muskets,the peopleon the Kasson side observed us, and broughtover a canoe to carry our baggage. 1 did not, however, think it possible to get the cattledown the bank, which is here than forty feet above the water ; but the Negroes seized more and launched them, one at a time,down a sort of trench the horses, and seemed to have or gullythat was almost perpendicular, After the terrifiedcattle been worn smooth by this sort of use. had been plungedin this manner to the water's edge, every man got down as well as he could. The ferrymanthan takinghold of the most steadyof the horses by a rope, led him into the httle from the brink ; upon a water, and paddledthe canoe which a general the other horses,who attack commenced upon themselves pelted and kicked on all sides,unanimously finding plungedinto the river,and followed their companion. A few in after them ; and by lavingwater upon them when boys swam theyattemptedto return, urgedthem onwards,and we had the over

a

in about fifteenminutes,to see them allsafe on the satisfaction, the to manage of greaterdifiiculty other side. It was a matter asses

their natural

;

endure

a

stubbornness

greatdeal of peltingand

made them disposition shovingbefore theywould of

park's

60

into

venture

of

the

to

get

them

baggage

;

a

in

of

box

stretching

and

advanced, from a

and

it

whence, fresh

Kasson.

an

the

this

that

stood

mine out

his

hand

for the

overset

got after

departure,

back

to

wringing and

motion

were

a

proper in

the

it,

he

the soon

time

to

of

forepart

shore water

from afterwards

returned,

this

dangerous

have

a

the

into

peep

canoe

;

destroyed we

not

were

much our

The

overset.

unfortunately

without

transporting

canoe

to

Luckily

canoe.

the

like

was

the

getting

in

in

middle exertion

every in

the

embarked

myself

thought

before

the

of

spite

employed

was

sunset

least

reached

spent

were

more

near

was

in

back, hours

hour

had

they

when

turned

and

which

and

equilibrium,

and

Two

;

nephew

tin

them

Sego

passage-boat, king's

of

over

Demba

when

;

forwards.

them of

water

four

stream,

whole the

the

in

travels

the far

difficulty

clothes,

safely

and

we

landed

took in

;

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

CHAPTEE Arrival

Teesee

at

The Author

"

VL

Interviewwith

"

s

detention

61

at

brother Sego,the king's Tiggity Teesee Some account of that "

and its inhabitants Incidents which occurred there plxice Rapaciousconduct of Tiggity Segotoward the Author on his the capital Departure Sets out for Kooniakary, of the kingdom Incidents on the road,and arrival at Kooniakary. "

"

"

"

VV

E

found ourselves safe in

Kasson,than Demba and Sego told me that we were now in his uncle's dominions, he hopedI would consider, the obligabeingnow out of danger, tion I owed to him, and make him a suitable return for the trouble he had taken on my account, by a handsome present. from me at Joag, This,as he knew how much had been pilfered rather an unexpected was proposition ; and I began to fear that I had not much improvedmy condition by crossing the water ; I made but as it would have been folly to complain, vation obserno bars of amber, and gave him seven upon his conduct, and

no

some

sooner

tobacco,with which he seemed

to be content.

of which I observed in the course longday'sjourney, arrived at of largeloose nodules of white granite, we a number Teesee on the eveningof December 29, and were accommodated in Demba Sego'shnt. The next morning he introduced me to his father, TiggitySego,brother to the king of Kasson,chief After

of Teesee.

a

The

old

man

viewed

me

with

great earnestness, white man before,whom

havingnever, he said,beheld but one I immediately knew to be MajorHoughton. by his description the motives that I related to him, in answer to his inquiries,

park's

62"

travels

in

the country. But he seemed to doubt explore I beUeve,that I secretly the truth of what I asserted, thinking, He told afraid to avow. which I was meditated some project the it w^ould be necessary I should go to Kooniakary, me, but residence of the king,to pay my respectsto that prince, desired me to (jome to him againbefore I leftTeesee. of his slaves eloped In the afternoon one ; and a general alarm being given, every person that had a horse rode into the woods, in the hopes of apprehendinghim ; and Demba Sego I readily begged the use of my horse for the same purpose. consented ; and in about an hour theyall returned with the and afterwards put in irons. severely flogged, slave,who was On the day following (Dec.31) Demba Sego was ordered to go, with twenty horsemen,to a town in Gedumah, to adjustsome with the Moors,a party of whom were supposedto have dispute Demba stolen three horses from Teesee. begged,a second of my bridle that the sight time,the use of my horse ; adding, the Moors. and saddle would give him consequence among This request also I readily granted,and he promisedto return at the end of three days. Duringhis absence I amused myself with the natives, with walkingabout the town, and conversing with greatkindness and curiosity, who attended me everywhere wath milk,eggs, and what other provisions I and supplied me

induced

to

me

wanted, on very easy terms. Teesee is a largeunwalled town, havingno security against in which the attack of an enemy, except a sort of citadel, reside. This town, according constantly Tiggityand his family inhabited onlyby a to the report of the natives, was formerly few Foulah means

who shepherds,

lived in considerable affluence

of the excellent meadows

theyreared greatherds the

of

in the

of cattle. But

in which neighbourhood, their prosperity ing attract-

Mandingoes,the latter and took possession of their lands. shepherds, The presentinhabitants, thoughtheypossess envy

some

by

drove

out

the

both cattleand

THE

INTERIOR

OF

63

AFRICA.

in

abundance,are not over nice in articles of diet ; rats, moles,squirrels, snakes,locusts, etc.,are eaten without scruple and lowest. My people were one by the highest eveninginvited to a feast givenby some of the townsmen, where,after making a heartymeal of what theythoughtfish and kouskous,one of them found a pieceof hard skin in the dish,and broughtit alongwith him, to shew me what sort of fish they had been eating.On examiningthe skin,I found theyhad been feasting Another custom stillmore on a largesnake. is, extraordinary corn

that

no

is allowed to

woman

whether

from ancient arising

of

old Bushreen

who

nothingwill

more

some

to, and ofierher

an

Qgg.

eggs without

eat never

observed

The

eat

an

egg.

This

prohibition,

or from the craftiness superstition, loved eggs himself, is rigidly adhered

aSront

custom

a

of Teesee

woman

is the

more

than to

as the men singular, of their wives,and

in the presence scruple in any the same prohibition

I

other of the Man-

dingocountries. The third day after his son's departure TiggitySego held which I attended ; a occasion, palaveron a very extraordinary much and the debates on both sides of the question displayed siderable ingenuity.The case was this : A young man, a Kafir,of conmarried a young and who had recently affluence, handsome wife, to a very devout Bushreen,or Mussulman applied for his protecof his acquaintance, to procure him saphies tion priest with The Bushreen complied war. duringthe approaching to render the saphies the request; and in order, as he pretended, more efficacious, enjoinedthe young man to avoid any nuptial intercourse with

his bride for the space of six weeks.

Severe

obeyed; and without injunction was, the Kafir strictly pany. his wife the real cause, absented himself from her comtelling at Teesee, In the meantime it began to be whispered devotions his evening that the Bushreen,who alwaysperformed as

the

at the door of the Kafir's hut,was

wife than

he

ought to

be.

At

intimate with the young the good husband was first,

more

park's

64

travels

in

and one to suspectthe honour of his sanctifiedfriend, unwilling in his mind ; but rose before any jealousy whole month elapsed his wife on he at last interrogated hearingthe chargerepeated, confessed that the Bushreen had seduced who frankly the subject, and called her. Hereupon the Kafir put her into confinement, The fact was clearly a palaver upon the Bushreen' s conduct. provedagainsthim ; and he was sentenced to be sold into slaves for his redemption, accordingto or to find two slavery, The injured of the complainant. husband,however, the pleasure his friend to such extremity, to proceedagainst was unwilling before Tiggity and desired rather to have him publicly flogged diately Sego'sgate. This was agreedto, and the sentence was immetied by the hands to a strong executed. The culprit was the executioner, stake ; and a longblack rod beingbrought forth, it with it round his head for some after flourishing time,applied such force and dexterity to the Bushreen' s back,as to make him roar

until the woods

resounded

with

his

screams.

The

rounding sur-

manifested multitude, by their hootingand laughing, of this old gallant theyenjoyedthe punishment ; and it is worthyof remark, that the number of stripes was precisely the same as are save one. enjoined by the mosaic \?iw, forty, As there appearedgreat probability that Teesee, from its beinga frontiertown, would be much exposed, duringthe war, excursions of the Moors of Gadumah, Tiggity to the predatory sent round to the neighbouring Sego had, before my arrival, would to beg or to purchaseas much as villages, provisions

how

much

afibrd subsistence to the inhabitants for

of the crop on was destroy.This project

the

one

whole

pendently year, inde-

ground,which the Moors might well received by the country people, and theyfixed a day on which to bringall the provisions they could spare to Teesee ; and as my horse was I not yet returned, went in the afternoon of January4th,1796,to meet the escort with the provisions. It was composedof about four hundred men, marchingin

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

65

in largecalabashes upon good order,with corn and ground-nuts their heads. They were preceded by a strongguardof bowmen, and followed by eightmusicians or singing As soon men. as t he theyapproached town, the latter began a song, every verse of which was answered by the company, and succeeded by a few strokes on the largedrums. In this manner theyproceeded, amidst the acclamations of the populace, tilltheyreached the house of TiggitySego,where the loads were deposited ; and in the eveningtheyall assembled under the Bentang tree, and spent the nightin dancingand merriment. Many of these duringwhich time strangers remained at Teesee for three days, attended by as many I was of them as could conveniently constantly see me as party givingway to another,as soon ; one was curiosity gratified. On the 5th of Januaryan embassyof ten peoplebelonging to Almami Abdulkader,king of Foota Torra,a country to the west of Bondou, arrived at Teesee ; and desiring TiggitySego their of the inhabitants, announced publicly to call an assembly determination to this effect: That unless allthe people king's and evince of Kasson would embrace the Mahomedan rehgion, their conversion by sayingeleven public prayers, he (thekingof stand neuter in the present Foota Torra)could not possibly contest,but would certainly joinhis arms to those of Kajaaga.'* could not A message of this nature,from so powerfula prince, "

"

failto create greatalarm ; and

the inhabitants of Teesee, after

long consultation, agreedto conform to his good pleasure, and all publicly one humiUatingas it was to them. Accordingly, a

cient considered a suffioffered up eleven prayers, which were testimonyof their having renounced paganism,and embraced It with my

the doctrines of the

was

the 8th

horse ; and

Prophet. of January before Demba Sego returned I beingquitewearied out with the delay,

to inform immediately Kooniakaryearlythe next

went

his father that I should set out for made many day. The old man

park's

66

travels

in

that lengthgave me to understand, departingwithout first payinghim the

frivolousobjections ; and at I must same

not

think of

duties he

was

entitled to receive from

all travellers;

he said,some acknowledgmentfor expected, the morning of the on his kindness towards me. Accordingly, to me, came 9"h,my friend Demba, with a number of people, sent by TiggitySego for my present, and said that they were for that purand wished to see what goodsI had appropriated pose. and complaint I knew that resistance was hopeless, mation measure preparedby the intiunavailing ; and being in some offered him I quietly I had received the nightbefore, these bars of amber and five of tobacco. After surveying seven laid them down, and time very coolly, Demba articlesfor some of Tiggity sequence, told me this was not a presentfor a man Sego'sconwho had itin his own power to take whatever he pleased He added,that if I did not consent to make him a from me. and he would carry all my baggageto his father, larger offering, let him choose for himself. I had not time for reply,for Demba and his attendants immediately began to open my where bundles,and spreadthe different articles upon the floor, strictexamination than theyhad dond theyunderwent a more at Joag. Every thingthat pleased them, theytook without seized the tin box Demba scruple ; and amongst other things, which had so much attracted his attention in crossing the river. the scattered remains of my littlefortune after Upon collecting these peoplehad left me, I found that,as at Joag,I had been of half;so here,without even the shadow of accusation, plundered I was deprivedof half the remainder. The blacksmith to himself, thougha native of Kasson,had also been compelled and take an oath that the different articles open his bundles, exclusive property. There was, theycontained were his own however,no remedy; and having been under some obHgation to Demba Sego for his attention towards me in the journeyfrom him for his rapacity, but determined to Joag,I did not reproach besides which

he

THE

quitTeesee

at all events

in order to raise the a

INTEEIOR

OF

the next

morning. In the meanwhile, of my attendants, I purdroopingspirits chased

fat sheep, and had it dressed for our

Early in

67

AFRICA.

dinner.

the

I left morning of January 10th,therefore, from whence we Teesee,and about midday ascended a ridge, had a distant view of the hills round Kooniakary. In the where w^e slept, and departing eveningwe reached a small village, from thence the next morning, crossed in a few hours a but deep stream called Krieko,a branch of the Senegal. narrow About two miles farther to the eastward, we passeda large calledMadina ; and at two o'clock came in sight of Jumbo, town the blacksmith's native town, from whence he had been absent than four years. Soon after this his brother, who had more

been apprised of his coming,came out to meet by some means him, accompaniedby a singingman ; he broughta horse for that he might enter his native town the blacksmith, in a to put a good manner dignified ; and he desired each of us chargeof powder into our guns. The singingman now led the way, followed by the two brothers ; and we were presently monstra joinedby a number of peoplefrom the town, allof whom desmith, the blackgreatjoyat seeingtheir old acquaintance, by the most extravagant jumping and singing.On enteringthe town, the singingman began an extempore song in praiseof the blacksmith, his courage in having extolling with a strict and concluding overcome so difficulties; many to his friends to dress him plentyof victuals. injunction we When arrived at the blacksmith's placeof residence, we The meetingbetween him dismounted and fired our muskets. children of very tender ; for these rude their emotions in the strojigest nature, free from restraint, display and

his relations

was

the these transports, led forth, blacksmith'saged mother was leaningupon a staff. Every one made way for her ; and she stretched out her hand she stroked bis welcome. to bid her son blind, Beingtotally

and

most

expressivemanner.

Amidst

PAEK'S

1"

TEAVELS

m

great care, and seemed highly blessed by his return, and that her latter days were delighted

hands, arms,

that her

ears

face with

and

more

once

this interview I

was

there is between

the

heard- the music of his voice.

that whatever difference convinced, fully Negro and European in the conformation

the colour of the skin,there is none of our and characteristicfeelings genuinesympathies of the

nose

From

and

in the common

nature.

I had seated During the tumult of these congratulations, myselfapart,by the side of one of the huts,beingunwilling and parental tenderness ; and the the flow of filial to interrupt attention of the company that I believe blacksmith,

was none

so

taken entirely

up

with the

of his friends had observed

me.

smith the blackpeoplepresent had seated themselves, desired by his father to givethem some account of was his adventures ; and silence beingcommanded, he began; and after repeatedly thankingGod for the success that had attended that had happened to him, related every material occurrence him from his leavingKasson to his arrival at the Gambia, his employmentand success in those parts,and the dangershe had to his native country. In the latter part escapedin returning of his narration, he had frequently occasion to mention me ; and after many strongexpressions concerning my kindness to him, he pointedto the placewhere I sat,and exclaimed, ibi Affiille there." In a moment all eyes were siring^see him sitting turned upon me ; I appearedlike a being droppedfrom the clouds ; every one was that theyhad not observed me surprised before ; and a few women and children expressed ness greatuneasiof such an uncommon at beingso near a man appearance. subsided ; and when however, their apprehensions By degrees, the blacksmith assured them that I was inoffensive, perfectly and would hurt nobody,some of them ventured so far as to examine the texture of my clothes, but many of them were still and when by accident I happenedto move very suspicious; When

allthe

"

INTERIOR

THE

myself,or

look

the

at

off with

them

young

OF

69

AFRICA.

children,their mothers

would

with

the greatest precipitation. In few hours,however, they all became reconciled to me. scamper

With

a

these

worthy people I spent the remainder of that, and the whole of the ensuing day, in feasting and merriment ; and the blacksmith declared he would not quitme duringmy set out earlyon the stay at Kooniakary,for which place we morning of the 14th of January,and arrived about the middle of the day at Soolo,a small village three miles to the south of it. As this place was somewhat of the direct road, it is out thither to visit a Slatee,or that I went to observe necessary Gambia named Salim trader, of great note and reputation, Daucari. He was well known who had trusted to Dr. Laidley, him with effects to the value of five slaves, and had given me order for the whole of the debt. We found him at an lu(^kily home, and he received

me

with

great kindness and attention.

remarkable,however, that the king of Kasson was, immediatelyapprisedof my motions ; for I by some means, had been at Soolo but a few hours, before Sambo Sego, his thither with a party of horse,to inquirew^hat second son, came from proceedingto Kooniakary,and w^aiting had preventedme immediatelyupon the king,who, he said,was impatientto see Salim Daucari made my apology,and promisedto accompany me. to Kooniakary the same accordingly me evening; we It is

departedfrom Kooniakary. the interview

Sego. My

Soolo But

sunset, and

at

as

tillnext

in

about

hour entered

king had gone to sleep,we morning, and sleptat the hut

the

king, and occurred to me in the kingdoms of Kasson the subjectof the ensuing chapter. interview

an

with

the

the and

deferred of Sambo

incidents w^hich

Kaarta,will be

park's

70

in

travels

VIL

CHAPTER

ofthe kingofKasson, whom Incidents during the towards him he findswell disposed Authors stay at Kooniahary Departsthence for Kemmoo, Is received with great kindness hy the the capital ofKaarta his king of Kaarta^ who dissuades him froraprosecuting hostilities with the king account on of approaching journey, to The Author determines, notwithstanding, of Bambarra takes the path obstructed, proceed ; and the usual route being by the to Ludamar, a Moorish kingdom Is accommodated town of the Moorish kingwith a guideto Jarra,thefrontier territories by three accompanied ; and sets out forthat place, of the kinfssons, and two hundred horsemen,

The Author admitted to

an

audience

"

"

"

"

"

i\-BOUT eighto'clock

in the

morningof January15, 1796, went to an audience of the king (Demba Sego Jalla) we ; but the crowd of peopleto see me was so great,that I could scarcely get admittance. A passage beingat lengthobtained,I made found sitting we upon a mat, my bow to the monarch, whom in a largehut ; he appearedto be a man of about sixtyyears of age ; his success in war, and the mildness of his behaviour in time of peace, had much endeared him to all his subjects.

surveyedme with great attention ; and when SaHiiiDaucari of my journey, to him the object and my reasons explained for passing not throughhis country,the good old kingappeared but promisedme every assistance in his satisfied, onlyperfectly He informed me that he had seen power. Major Houghton, and presented him with a white horse ; but that after crossing He

THE

the

OF

71

AFRICA.

kingdom of Kaarta,he

in what was

INTERIOR

had lost his lifeamong the Moors ; he could not inform me. When this audience

manner

ended,we

returned to

present for the

king out

our

and lodging,

I made

of the few effectsthat

up

a

small

left me

were

;

for I had not yet received anything from Salim Daucari. This well received by was present,though inconsiderable in itself, the

king,who sightof this

in return

largewhite bullock. The animal quitedelighted not so attendants; my much on acc"ount of its bulk,as from itsbeingof a white colour, which is considered as a particular mark of favour. But although the king himself was well disposed towards me, and readily I soon to pass throughhis territories, grantedme permission discovered that very greatand unexpectedobstacles were likely which was Besides the war the to impede my on progress. pointof breakingout between Kasson and Kajaaga,I was told that the next kingdom of Kaarta,throughwhich my route lay, sent

me

involved in the issue ; and

was

a

was

furthermore

the part of Bambarra. The and advised of these circumstances,

with hostilities on informed

me

threatened

king

himself

to

stayin

me

of Kooniakary, tillsuch time as he could neighbourhood pected Bambarra, which he exprocure proper information respecting of four or five days, to do in the course as he had already, I into Kaarta for that purpose. he said, sent four messengers and went submitted to this proposal, to Soolo,to stay readily

the

of those messengers. what of receiving favourable opportunity

there tillthe return me

a

of

one

This afforded

Salim money I succeeded

account. Daucari could spare me on Dr. Laidley's in golddust ; and the value of three slaves, in receiving chiefly I begged being anxious to proceed as quicklyas possible,

Daucari

to

use

his interestwith the

king to

allow

me

a

guide

by the way of Fooladoo, as I was informed that the war had commenced between the kingsof Bambarra and Kaarta. already Daucari accordingly set out for Kooniakaryon the morning of the 20th,and the same eveningreturned with the king'sanswer,

park's

72 which

was

made

an

in

travels

this purpose ; that the kinghad many years ago agreement with Daisy,king of Kaarta, to send all to

travellersthroughhis dominions ; but that if I I had his permission wished to take the route throughFooladoo, with his agreement, so to do ; thoughhe could not, consistently in lend me a guide. Having felt the want of regal protection

merchants and

a

to hazard a repetition unwilling as especially experienced, the last supplythat I probably

I was former part of my journey, I had then of the hardships

the money I had received was should obtain ; I therefore determined to wait for the return the messengers from Kaarta. In the interim it began to be

abroad whispered

of

that I had

ing plentyof goldfrom Salim Daucari ; and on the mornof the 23d Sambo Sego paid me a visitwith a party of of He insisted upon knowing the exact amount horsemen. the money I had obtained, that whatever the sum declaring, half of it must go to the king; besides which, he was, one intimated that he expecteda handsome as presentfor himself, as beingthe king's beingthe king'sson, and for his attendants, relations. The reader will easily that if all these perceive, demands had been satisfied, I should not have been overburdened with money ; but though it was to very mortifying to complywith the demands of injustice, and so arbitrary me an to make exaction,yet,thinkingit was highlydangerous a

received

foolish resistance, and of his paw,

I

irritatethe lion when

preparedto submit all my endeavours interposed,

;

within the reach

and if Sahm

Daucari had

mitigatethis oppressive claim would have been of no avail. Salim at last prevailed Sambo to accept sixteen bars of Europeanmerchandise, upon and some powder and ball,as a completepayment of every demand that could be made upon me in the kingdom of Kasson. Jan. 26th. In the forenoon, I went to the top of a high hillto the southward of Soolo,where I had a most enchanting prospectof the country. The number of towns and villages, not

"

to

THE

and

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

the extensive cultivation around I had

yet

seen

formed of the number

in Africa.

Tff

them, surpassed thing every-

A

gross calculation may be of inhabitants in this delightful plainby

that the king of Kasson can raise four thousand considering the In traversing men fighting by the sound of his war drum. which are almost destituteof vegerockyeminences of this hill, tation, I observed a number of largeholes in the crevices and fissuresof the rocks,where the wolves and hyoenas take refuge duringthe day. Some of these animals paidus a visiton the evening of the 27th ; their approachwas discovered by the it is remarkable this occasion, on dogs of the village ; and dismal that the dogs did not bark, but howl in the most heard them, The inhabitants of the village no sooner manner. than, knowing the cause, they armed themselves ; and providing bunches of dry grass, went in a body to the inclosure in where the cattle were the middle of the village kept. Here they hghted the bunches of grass, and, waving them to and towards the hills. This manoeuvre fro,ran hooping and hallooing the wolves away of frightening had the desired efl'ect from the village, but,on examination,we found that theyhad and torn and wounded many others. killed five of the cattle, Feb. 1st. The messengers arrived from Kaarta,and brought between had not yet commenced that the war inteUigence Bambarra and Kaarta,and that I might probably pass through "

Kaarta before the Bambarra

army

invaded that country.

Earlyin the morning two guideson horseback to the frontiersof Kaarta. from Kooniakary to conduct me came for the I accordingly took leave of Salim Daucari,and parted, whose kind the blacksmith, last time,from my fellow-traveller, soKcitude for my welfare had been so conspicuous ; and about travelled this day We o'clock departedfrom Soolo. ten through a rocky and hillycountry, along the banks of the of Soomo, to the village river Krieko, and at sunset came where we slept. Feb. 3d.

"

park's

74

travels

in

-

"

route

from Soomo, departed

We

Feb. 4th.

and

along the banks of the Krieko, which

and well cultivated, increased

they were

thither from Kaarta

by

an

the

are

of

number

everywhere this time

peoplethat

had flown

of the Bambarra

account

our

At

inhabitants.

with

swarm

continued

In the

war.

the residence of largevillage, Madi Konko, governor of the hilly country of Kasson, which is From hence the guidesappointedby the .called Sorroma. against King of Kasson returned to join in the expedition on Kajaaga; and I waited until the 6th before I could prevail Madi Konko to appoint me a guideto Kaarta. Feb. 7th. Departingfrom Kimo, with Madi Konko's son as a guide,we C/Ontinued our course alongthe banks of the Krieko until the afternoon, when we arrived at Kangee, a afternoon

reached

we

Kimo,

a

"

considerable

The

town.

This beautiful stream

Krieko

is here but

takes its rise

this town, and descends with

a

a

small rivulet.

littleto the eastward of

rapidand noisycurrent until it reaches the bottom of the high hill called Tappa, where it becomes more and winds gentlythrough the lovely placid, tional plainsof Kooniakary;after which, having received an addibranch from the north,it is lost in the Senegal, somewhere the fallsof Felow.

near

Feb.

a

8th.

This

day we travelled over a rough stony of other country,and having passed Seimpo and a number arrived in the afternoon at Lackerago, villages, a small village which stands upon the ridgeof hillsthat separates the kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta. In the course of the day we passed from Kaarta,with their families many hundreds of peopleflying "

and eflects. Feb. 9th. "

rago, and

a

from whence

Earlyin

the

morning we

littleto the eastward we

had

the south-east

were

guide told us

were

an

came

from departed to the brow

extensive view of the

some perceived

the mountains

Lacka-

of

a

hill,

country. Towards

which very distant hills, of Fooladoo.

We

our

travelled

INTERIOR

THE

with great difficulty down continued

our

way

a

OF

and stony and abruptprecipice,

in the bed of

trees, meeting overhead,made

75

AFRICA.

dry river-course; the placedark and a

where the cool.

In

glen,and and about ten o'clock emerged from between two rockyhills, of Kaarta. At found ourselves on the level and sandyplains arrived at a Korree,or watering-place, we where,for a few noon milk and corn-meal as we I purchased of beads, as much strings and the shepherds could eat ; indeed provisions are here so cheap, that theyseldom ask any return for what live in such affluence, a

littletime

refreshments we

reached

for the

reached

we

travellerreceives from them.

a

Feesurah

at sunset, where

we

From took up

this Korree our

lodging

night.

continued at Feesurah allthis day,to have few clothes washed,and learn more exactlythe situation of Feb. 10th. "

a

the bottom of this romantic

afiairsbefore

we

Feb. 11th.

"

state of the

We

ventured towards the Our

capital. landlord, takingadvantageof the

country,demanded

he that suspecting lodging,

so

extravaganta

wished for

an

sum

unsettled for

our

to quarrel opportunity

with us, I refused to submit to his exorbitant demand ; but my of approaching at the reports attendants were so much frightened unless I could war, that theyrefused to proceedany further,

to us him, and induce him to accompany the road. This I accomplished on Kemmoo, for our protection and by a presentof a blanket which I had with some difficulty, broughtwith me to sleepin,and for which our landlord had at length amicably conceived a very greatliking.Matters were He was his horse and led the way. and he mounted adjusted, with the ceremonial partof of those Negroeswho, together one retain all their ancient superstitions the Mahomedan religion, drink strong liquors.They are called Johars, or and even and powerful Jowers, and in this kingdomform a very numerous part of the tribe. We had no sooner got into a dark and lonely firstwood, than he made a signfor us to stop,and takinghold

settle matters

with

park's

76

travels

in

hollow pieceof bamboo, that hung as an amulet round his what neck,whistled very loud,three times. I confess I was someof

a

it was thinking startled, to

come

and

merelywith meet

with

his spear

attack

us

; but

a

for some signal

he assured

view to ascertain what

a

the

across

success

presentjourney. He then

our

on

me

of his companions that it

was

done

to likely laid dismounted,

we

were

road,and having said a number

of short

with three loud whistles ; after which he of an answer, and time,as if in expectation

prayers, concluded

listened for some

for there mightproceedwithout fear, receiving none, told us we we was no danger. About noon passeda number of large the inhabitants having fled into Kasson villages quitedeserted, to avoid the horrors of

this formerly was the Bambarrans

We

reached Karankalla at sunset ; a large town, but having been plunderedby about four years ago, nearlyone half of it is war.

stillin ruins. Feb. 12th.

At

from Karankalla, and we daylight departed but a short day'sjourneyto Kemmoo, we travelled as it was slower than usual,and amused such ourselves by collecting eatable fruitsas grew near the road side. In this pursuit I had wandered a littlefrom my people, and beinguncertain whether theywere before or behind me, I hastened to a risingground to look about me. As I was proceeding towards this eminence, two Negro horsemen, armed with muskets,came from galloping the bushes; on seeingthem I made a full stop; the among horsemen did the same; and all three of us seemed equally and confounded at this interview. As I approached surprised and one of them, after casting them, their fears increased, upon rode off at fullspeed; the other, me a look of horror, in a panic of fear, put his hands over his eyes, and continued muttering without the rider'sknowledge, prayers until his horse,seemingly after his companion. About a mile to the conveyedhim slowly westward, they fell in with my attendants, to whom they relateda frightful their fears had dressed me story. It seems "

THE

in the

robes flowing

that when afiirmed,

INTERIOB

of

my

77

AFRICA.

tremendous

a

I made

pouringdown

OF

spirit ; and

appearance,

a

one

of them

cold blast of wind

him from the

sky,like so much cold About noon water. at a distance the capital of Kaarta, we saw situated in the middle of an open plain, the countryfor two miles round being cleared of wood, by the great consumption of that articlefor building and fuel, and we entered the town came

about two

upon

o'clock in the afternoon.

We

without stopping, to the court before the proceeded, surrounded by the king'sresidence ; but I was so completely that I did not attempt to dismount, but sent gazingmultitude, in the landlord and Madi Konko's son, to acquaint the kingof In a Kttle time theyreturned, accompanied by n my arrival from the that he would see me in king,signifying messenger the evening had orders ; and in the meantime,the messenger and see that the crowd did not molest to procure me a lodging, He

me.

stationed

a

me

man,

with

shewed

me

a

into

a

court,at the door of which

stick in his

he

hand,to keep off the mob,

largehut,in which I was to lodge. I had scarcely seated myselfin this spacious apartment,when the mob entered ; it was found impossible to keep them out, surrounded by as many as the hut could contain. and I was When the firstparty,however,had seen me, and asked a few questions, theyretired to make room for another company ; and filledand emptiedthirteen different the hut was in this manner and

then

conducted

a

times.

was

that he A littlebefore sunset,the kingsent to infonn me I followed the messenger and wished to see me. at leisure,

where highwalls, I observed plentyof dry grass bundled up like hay,to fodder should be invested. On entering the horses in case the town astonished at the I was the court in which the kingwas sitting, and at the good order that seemed to number of his attendants, them. men They were all seated the fighting prevail among

througha

number

of courts

surrounded

with

"

park's

yg

in

travels

and children on the hand,and the women king's rigbt The king, them for my passage. a space between left, leaving not to be distinguished was whose name was Daisy Koorabarri, in pointof dress ; a bank from his subjects by any superiority of earth about two feet high,upon which was spreada leopard's skin,constitutedthe onlymark of royaldignity.When I had seated myselfupon the ground before him, and related the various circumstances that had induced me to pass throughhis he appeared his protection, for soliciting country,and my reasons satisfied not in his power at present ; but said it was perfectly the

on

to

afford me

for that all sort of communication assistance,

much

had been

and Bambarra

for some interrupted time past; and as Mansong,the king of Bambarra,with his army, had entered Fooladoo in his way to Kaarta,there was Bambarra by any of the usual but littlehope of my reaching routes,inasmuch as, comingfrom an enemy'scountry,I should If his countryhad be plundered, or taken for a spy. certainly I might have remained with him until a been at peace, he said, oflered; but,as matters stood at favourable opportunity more he did not wish me to continue in Kaarta,for fear present, Kaarta

between

accident should befal me, in which case my had that he murdered a white man. might say

some

therefore advise until the in the

war

course

sons

This

would

He

would

into Kasson, and remain there should terminate, which would probably happen me

to

of three

return

or

four months

he would be gladto he said, alive, his

countrymen

take

advice

was

king,and perhapsI

care

of

see

after which,if he

me,

and if he

was

was

dead,

me.

well certainly was

;

to

reflected that the hot months

meant

blame in not

the part of the it ; but I following on

and I dreaded approaching, in the interior of rainyseason

were

thoughtsof spendingthe and the aversion I felt at the Africa. These considerations, without havingmade a greaterprogress in disidea of returning covery, made me determine to go forwards ; and thoughthe

the

THE

king could would allow

kingdom as

not a

giveme man

INTERIOR

a

OF

AFRICA.

79

guideto Bambarra,I beggedthat he

to accompany

me

as

near

the frontiersof his

consistent with

safety.Findingthat I was determined to proceed, the king told me that one route still free from danger; remained,but that,he said,was by no means which was into the Moorish kingdom of to go from Kaarta Ludamar, from whence I might pass, by a circuitousroute,into Bambarra. If I wished to follow this route,he would appoint peopleto conduct me to Jarra,the frontier town of Ludamar. He then inquired how I had been treated since very particularly 1 had leftthe Gambia, and asked in a jocular way how many slaves I expectedto carry home with me He on my return. about to proceed, when a man mounted on a fine Moorish was horse,which was covered with sweat and foam, entered the that he had somethingof importance to court, and signifying took up his sandals, which communicate,the king immediately is the signal took leave, to strangersto retire. I accordingly in order to learn but desired my boy to stay about the place, that this messenger had brought. somethingof the intelligence In about an hour the boy returned, and informed me that the itsmarch towards and was Bambarra army had leftFooladoo, on gence, I had seen, who had broughtthis intelliKaarta ; that the man of the scouts or watchmen employedby the king, was one station (commonlyon some each of whom has his particular rising ground)from whence he has the best view of the country, was

and watches the motions of the enemy. In the eveningthe king sent me

a

fine sheep; which

was

the day. of us had tasted victualsduring as none acceptable, Whilst we were employed in dressing supper, eveningprayers but by announced ; not by the call of the priest, as usual, were teeth, beatingon drums,and blowingthroughlargeelephants' hollowed out in such a manner as to resemble buglehorns ; the to the comes nearer sound is melodious, and, in my opinion, sound. As the main body human voice than any other artificial very

park's

80

of

Daisy's

were

crowded

much

very

"

as

from

the

begged

me

a

thank

with

Jarra

anything

all decisive

We

Kaarta.

accompanied horsemen,

journey.

possible

by who

expedition,

should

accordingly three

kindly

of

undertook

it

that

to

me

to

depart

to

messenger

conduct

armies

of from

about little

to

me

proceed

to

the

a

I

war,

appoint

to

return

me

away

of

seat

might

and see

get

they

forthwith

sons,

holsters

to

his

sent

of

Kaarta.

convenient

wished

king

to

disciples

I wished

horsemen

departed

Daisy's

that

mosques

and

the

become

king

between

happen

of

desirous

find

eight

the

army

king

the

the

the

very to

the

that

horse-pistols

my

soon

and that

me

of

being

hour

an

present,

told

They

Jarra.

and

the

for

me

about

In

guide.

half

should

he

as

observed

the

Kemmoo,

at

I

sent

inform

to

soon

as

I

likely

was

messenger

Kemmoo

from

one

and

king,

which

place

a

the

to

present

a

;

daylight

At

13th.

Feb.

juncture, and

nearly

composed

Mahomet

this

at

was,

army

in

travels

to

before Bambarra

Kemmoo,

two

way

hundred on

my

THE

INTERIOR

OF

CHAPTER

Journeyfrom

Kemmoo

81

AFRICA.

VIII.

Funinghedy Some account of the A youthmurdered hy the Moors Lotus scene Interesting Author passes through at his death Stmbing Some particulars concerning MajorHoughton Author reaches Jarra Situation ofthe surrounding States at theperiod ofhis arrival between Kaarta and account of the war there,and a brief to

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

Bambarra,

VJn

from Kemmoo eveningof the day of our departure (the eldest son and greatpartof the horsemen havingreturned) king's called Marina,where we reached a village we slept.During thieves broke into the hut where I had depothe nightsome sited baggage,and havingcut open one of my bundles, my and some amber of beads,part of my clothes, stole a quantity plained and gold, which happenedto be in one of the pockets.I combut without effect. The next day to my protectors, (Feb.14) was far advanced before we departedfrom Marina, until account of the excessive heat, and we travelled slowly, on observed when two Negroeswere four o'clock in the afternoon, some thornybushes at a littledistance from the sitting among road. The king's takingit for grantedthat theywere people, cocked their muskets,and rode at fullspeedin slaves, runaway in order to surround them, the bushes, differentdirectionsthrough and preventtheir escaping.The Negroes, however,waited with the

within bowshot of them,when each of them took from his quivera handful of arrows, and putting two between his teeth and one in his bow, waved to us with his

greatcomposure until we

came

G

paek's

82

hand

keep

to

peoplecalled

at

travels

in

distance;upon

a

which

the strangers to said that " theywere

to

out

themselves.

They and had village, neighbouring tomberongs.These are small

berries

These

them

into

a

are

esteemed

much

poundingthem

until the farinaceous

part of the

of the

course

and flavour the sweetest

convert

sweet

the addition of

a

called fondi, which

the

gentlyin a wooden mortar, from the berryis separated a

littlewater, and formed

gingerbread.The

stones

in colour are

put into a vessel of water, and shaken about so This separatethe meal which may stilladhere to them. a

large day.

daysto

dried in the sun, resemble

cakes,which, when

into

two

us

who by the natives,

This meal is then mixed with

stone.

fruit of the

them for some bread,by exposing

sort of

and afterwards

sun,

to be the

they had collected in the

which baskets-full,

of

account

natives of

Negroes shewed

The

lotusof Linnaeus.

give some

king's

Toorda, a to that place to gather come farinaceous berries, of a yellow

colour and dehcious taste,which I knew rhamnus

of the

one

wards afteras

to

municates com-

and

taste to the water, and with agreeable little pounded millet, forms a pleasant gruel

is the

common

Ludamar

breakfast in many parts of of Februaryand March. The

during the months fruit is collected by spreading a beatingthe branches with a stick.

cloth upon

the

ground,and

lotus is very common in all the kingdoms which I but is found in the greatestplentyon the sandysoil of visited, The

Kaarta,Ludamar, and the northern parts of Bambarra, where it is

one

of the most

observed the

same

shrubs of the country. 1 had at Gambia. The leaves of the desert species common

shrub are, however, much smaller, and more resembhng,in that in the engravinggivenby Desfonthose represented particular, taines in the

Memoires

de F Academic

Koyale des Sciences,

1788, p. 443. As

this shrub

kingdoms,and

as

is found

in

Tunis, and

also in the

Negro

it furnishes the natives of the latterwith

a

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

83

food

bread,and also with a sweet liquorwhich is resembling much relished by them, there can be littledoubt of its being the lotus mentioned by Plinyas the food of the LybianLotophagi. An army may very well have been fed with the bread 1 have tasted, made of the meal of the fruit, as is said by Phny to have been done in Lybia; and as the taste of the bread is and agreeable, sweet it is not Hkely that the soldiers would complainof it. We arrived in the eveningat the village of Toorda,when allthe rest of the king'speopleturned back except two, who remained with me to Jarra. as guides Feb. 15th. I departed from Toorda,and about two o'clock to a considerable town called Funingkedy. As we came proache apthe town the inhabitants were much alarmed ; for,as of my one a turban,they mistook us for some guideswore Moorish banditti. This misapprehension cleared up, soon was and we were well received by a Gambia who resides at Slatee, this town, and at whose house we lodged. Feb. 16th. We informed that a number of people were would go from this town to Jarra on the day following ; and as the road was much infested by the Moors, we resolved to stay and accompany the travellers. In the meantime,we were told, that a few daysbefore our of the Bushreens and most arrival, peopleof propertyin Funingkedyhad gone to Jarra,to consult about removingtheir families and effects to that town, for fear of the approaching war ; and that the Moors, in their absence, "

"

had stolen

some

of their cattle.

lyingasleep upon a bullock's hide behind the door of the hut,I was awakened by the screams the and a generalclamour and confusion among of women, had inhabitants. At that the Bambarrans first I suspected entered the town ; but observing actually my boy upon the top About

of He

one

two

o'clock, as I

was

of the huts,I called to him

informed

me

that the Moors

to know were

come

what a

was

the matter.

second

time to

pake's

84 steal the

in

travels

and that they were cattle,

now

close to the town.

I

locks the roof of the hut, and observed a largeherd of bulback, coming towards the town, followed by fiveMoors on horse-

mounted

who

drove the cattleforward with their muskets.

When

close to the town, the and selected from the herd sixteen of the finest beasts,

which they had reached the wells, Moors

drove them

are

off at fullgallop.

the townspeople, to the number During this transaction, five

hundred,stood collected close to the walls of the

drove the cattle away, shot of them, the inhabitants within pistol the Moors

when

town

;

of and

though theypassed made a show scarcely fired,which, being

only saw four muskets loaded wdth gunpowder of the Negroes'own manufacture,did after this I observed a number of people execution. no Shortly him and conducting man a young supporting upon horseback, of the herdsmen, who This was one slowlytowards the town. to throw his spear, had been wounded by a shot from attempting of the Moors. His mother walked on before, one quitefrantic wdth grief, her hands,and enumeratingthe goodqualities clapping of her son. Ee maffofonio(he never said the told a lie) carried in at the disconsolate mother,as her wounded son was told a He ; no, never.) gate ; Ee maffofordoahada (he never When theyhad conveyedhim to his hut,and laid him upon a his fate, mat, allthe spectators joinedin lamenting by screaming and howlingin the most piteous manner. After their griefhad subsided a little, I was desired to I found that the ball had passedquite examine the wound. throughhis leg,havingfractured both bones a littlebelow the knee ; the poor boy was faint from the loss of blood,and his situation withal so very precarious, that I could not console his relations with any greathopesof his recovery. However, to give him a possible sary chance,I observed to them that it was necesto cut off his legabove the knee. This proposal made every heard of such a method start with horror ; theyhad never one of resistance.

"

I

THE

INTERIOR

of cure, and would by no means considered me theyevidently so

cruel and

unheard

of

would be attended with

an

more

OF

85

AFRICA.

givetheir consent as

a

to it; indeed

sort of cannibal for proposing

which in their opinion operation, painand dangerthan the wound

itself. The

therefore committed to the care of some was patient old Bushreens, who endeavoured to secure him a passage into paradise, by whisperingin his ear some Arabic sentences,and him to repeatthem. After many unsuccessful attempts, desiring the poor heathen at last pronounced. La illah el allah, Mahomet rasowl allaJii^^ and the disciples of the Prophetassured his mother that her son had givensufficientevidence of his faith, and would be happy in a future state. He died the same evening. Feb. 17th. My guidesinformed me, that in order to avoid the Moorish banditti, it was ; necessary to travel in the night in from the we afternoon, accordingly departed Funingkedy their effectswith accompaniedby about thirty people, carrying them into Ludamar, for fear of the war. travelled with We in when we stopped until midnight, great silence and expedition a sort of inclosure, near a small village ; but the thermometer beingso low as 68",none of the Negroescould sleepon account "

of the cold. and at journey, of Ludamar, frontiervillage and surrounded situated in a narrow rockyhills, pass between two with a highwall. From this village Major Houghton (beingdeserted by his Negro servants,who refused to follow his last letter with a him into the Moorish country), wrote to Dr. Laidley. This brave but unfortunate man, having pencil surmounted had taken a northerly direction, difficulties, many and endeavoured to pass through the kingdom of Ludamar, where I afterwards learned the following concerning particulars At

daybreakon the 18th,we the eighto'clock passedSimhing,

*

There isbut

one

God, and

resumed

Mahomet

our

is his Prophet.

pake's

86

travels

in

his arrival at Jarra,he got acquainted to Tisheet with certain Moorish merchants who were travelling his

fate. melancholy

On

(aplacenear the salt pitsin the Great Desert,ten days'journey the major,at the to the northward)to purchasesalt;and tobacco,engagedthem to convey expense of a musket and some this him thither. It is impossible to form any other opinion on deceived him than that the Moors intentionally determination, either with regardto the route that he wished to pursue, or the state of the intermediate

countrybetween Jarra and Timbuctoo.

Their intention

to rob and leave him in the desert. was probably At the end of two days he suspected sisted their treachery, and inin this deterto Jarra. Findinghim persist mination, on returning the Moors robbed him of every thinghe possessed, and went off with their camels ; the poor major being thus returned on foot to a wateringplacein possession of deserted, the Moors,called Tarra. He had been some dayswithout food, and the unfeehngMoors refusing to give him any, he sunk at last under his distresses. Whether he actually perishedof hunger,or was murdered outright by the savage Mahomedans, is not certainly known ; his body was draggedinto the woods,and I was the spot where his remains were left shewn,at a distance, to perish. About four miles to the north of Simbingwe to a came

small stream

horses ;

of water, where

they were

all of

we

observed

a

number

of wild

and galloped colour, away from us at an easy rate,frequently stoppingand lookingback. The Negroeshunt them for food,and their flesh is much esteemed. About noon arrived at Jarra,a largetown we situated at the bottom of some rockyhills. But before I proceedto describe the placeitself, and relate the various occurrences which befel me there,it will not be improperto give my readers a brief recitalof the origin of the war which induced me to take this route unfortunate determination, the immediate an of cause one

"

all the misfortunes and

calamities which

afterward befel

me.

THE

The

recitalwhich

INTERIOR

I propose

OF

to

87

AFRICA.

give in this placewill prevent

hereafter. interruptions This war, which desolated Kaarta soon after I had leftthat kingdom, and spread terror into many of the neighbouring in the

A few bullocks belongmanner. following ing to a frontier village of Bambarra been stolen having by a of Moors,were sold to the Dooty,or chief man of a town party in Kaarta. The villagers claimed their cattle, and beingrefused of the Dooty to their sovereign, Mansatisfaction, complained probablybeheld with an eye of song, king of Bambarra, who the growingprosperity of Kaarta,and availed himself jealousy of this incident to declare hostilitiesagainst that kingdom.

states,arose

With

this view

he sent

a

messenger

Daisy,king of Kaarta,to

to

Bambarra, with nine thousand

inform him

men,

would

a

men party of horse-

that the

visit Kemmoo

king of in the

(Daisy)would direct his slaves to sweep the houses,and have everything ready this for their accommodation. concluded The messenger in; the king with a pairof iron notification by presenting suiting that until such time as sandals ; at the same time adding, he should never out these sandals in his flight, Daisyhad worn course

of the

and

dry season

;

and to desire that he

"

be

secure

from the

arrows

of Bambarra."

about the best Daisy,havingconsulted with his chief men of repelling means so formidable an enemy, returned an answer of defiance, and made a Bushreen write in Arabic,upon a piece to a which was of thin board,a sort of proclamation, suspended sent were of aged men tree in the publicsquare ; and a number it to the common to explain to differentplaces people. This called upon all the friends of Daisy to joinhim proclamation afraid to arms, or were immediately ; but to such as had no enter into the war, permission was given to retire into any of the neighbouring kingdoms; and it was added,that provided theyshould alwaysbe welcome they observed a strictneutrality, to their former habitations. If,however, theytook to return '

pake's

88

travels

in

Kaarta,theyhad then broken the key part against afterwards enter the door." Such of their huts,and could never "

any active

was

"

the

expression. This proclamation was

applauded generally ; but many of the Kaartans, and amongst others the powerfultribes of themselves of the indulgent clause, Jower and Kakaroo,availing retired from Daisy'sdominions,and took refugein Ludamar of these desertions, and Kasson. Daisy's By means army was I not so numerous as might have been expected ; and when of effectivemen, according at Kemmoo, the whole number was of did not exceed four thousand ; but theywere men to report, and enterprise, and could be dependedon. spirit arrival at On the 22d of February (fourdays after my Jarra), Mansong,with his army, advanced towards Kemmoo ; retired to Joko, a town and Daisy,without hazarding a battle, three days, to the north-west of Kemmoo, where he remained and then took refugein a strong town called Gedingooma, in the hilly situated country,and surrounded with highwalls of When stone. Daisydepartedfrom Joko, his sons refused to follow him, alleging their that "the singing would publish men that Daisyand his family as soon as it should be known disgrace, had fled from Joko without firing fore therea gun." They were leftbehind,with a number of horsemen,to defend Joko ; defeated ; and but, after many skirmishes, they were totally of Daisy'ssons taken prisoner; fled to the remainder one and Gedingooma, which Daisy had stored with provisions, very

where he determined to make

his finalstand.

Mansong,findingthat Daisy was determined to avoid a pitchedbattle, placeda strong force at Joko to watch his motions ; and, separating the remainder of his army into small ordered them to overrun the country,and seize detachments, These upon the inhabitants before theyhad time to escape. orders were executed with such promptitude, that in a few days the whole kingdom of Kaarta became of desolation. a scene

THE

INTERIOR

OF

89

AFRICA.

Most of the poor inhabitants of the differenttowns and villages in the night, fellan easy prey ; and their com, beingsurprised and everything which could be useful to Daisy,was burnt and

destroyed.During these transactions, Daisywas employedin fortifying Gedingooma. This town is built in a narrow pass between two high hills, having onlytwo gates,one towards Kaarta Kaarta

and

the other towards

Jaffnoo.

The

gate towards

defended

by Daisy in person, and that towards Jaffnoo was committed When to the chargeof his sons. the army of Bambarra approachedthe town, theymade some alwaysdriven back with great attemptsto storm it,but were formidable than he loss;and Mansong, findingDaisy more and starve him into resolved to cut off his supplies, expected, he had taken submission. He accordingly sent all the prisoners of into Bambarra, and havingcollected a considerable quantity remained with his army two whole months in the provisions, decisive. During of Gedingoomawithout doinganything vicinity this time he was much harassed by salKes from the besieged ; and his stock of provisions beingnearlyexhausted,he sent to Ali,the Moorish king of Ludamar, for two hundred horsemen, was

attack upon the north gate of the the of storming town, and givethe Bambarrans an opportunity place. Ali,thoughhe had made an agreement with Mansong to make

to

enable him

at

the commencement

an

of the

war

to

afford him

now assistance,

refused to fulfilhis engagement, which so enraged Mansong, with a view that he marched part of his army to Funingkedy, received of Benowm the to surprise ; but the Moors having camp

and Mansong, fled to the northward, design, returned to Sego. This without attempting anythingfarther, in Ali's camp, as will happenedwhile 1 was myselfin captivity of his intelligence

hereafter be

able king of Kaarta had now got quitof his most formidit might have been hoped that peace would antagonist, incibeen restored to his dominions ; but an extraordinary

As the have

seen.

park's

90

travels

in

in hostilities with afterwards, him, immediately Kasson, the king of which countrydying about that time,the The younger (Sambo succession was by his tw^o sons. disputed prevailed ; and drove his brother Sego,my old acquaintance) from the country. He fled to Gedingooma; and beingpursued thither,Daisy, who had lived in constant friendship

dent involved

refused to deliver him up at the same with both the brothers, that he would not supporthis claim, time declaring nor any way "

quarrel.Sambo Sego, elated with success, and proud of the homage that was paid him as sovereign with Daisy'sconduct, and much of Kasson, was displeased Kaartans in a plundering disaffected fugitive joinedwith some him. expedition Daisy,who little expectedsuch a against had sent a number of peopleto Joko to plantcorn, and visit, in the such cattle as theymight find straying collecttogether All these peoplefell into woods, in order to supplyhis army. the hands of Sambo Sego,who carried them to Kooniakary, and interfere in the

afterwards sent Fort

them

in

caravans

to be

sold to the

French

at

Louis,on the river Senegal. This attack

Daisy,who was now in distress for want in of provisions, thoughthe was justified himself from the plunder He accordingly of Kasson. supplying took with him eight and marching hundred of his best men, in the nightthree large secretly throughthe woods,surprised jects in which many traitorous subof his. near villages Kooniakary, in Sambo's expedition who were dence. had taken up their resisoon

was

retaliated; for

All these,and indeed all the able

men

that fell into

hands,were immediately Daisy's put to death. After this expedition, Daisybegan to indulgethe hopesof had returned to their Many of his discontented subjects peace. and were lated the towns which had been desoallegiance, repairing The rainyseason and was by the war. approaching, denly sudfavourable appearance, when he was wore a everything attacked from

a

difierentquarter.

'

INTERIOR

THE

The

Jowers,

deserted

from

shewn the

whole

him

at

Moors

assist

to

and

make

them

afraid

being

very

his

him.

solicited

the

hereafter),

they

canned

and

giveness for-

themselves,

appear

army,

ask

to

They

(as will

had

during

army

in

had

and

war,

powerful

rebellion

who

ashamed

or

upon

Daisy,

to

the

and

considerable

a

belonging

village

now

their

Kaartans, of

Mansong

war

in

collected

having

large

and

to

other

some

to

91

AFRICA.

commencement

were

Daisy,

together

joined

the

preference

campaign, of

and

Kakaroos,

decided

a

OF

plundered

off

a

of

number

a

prisoners.

Jowers,

few

indeed

and

their

deserted

put

season

an

individuals, Such

was

neighbourhood there. that

prepared

immediately

Daisy

I

place,

shall with

almost and

towns, end

to

but

the

state

of

Jarra,

the

fled

war

destroyed

the

now

all

of soon

proceed, detail

of

to

the

of

the

eastward

affairs

the

period

giving

some

after after events

the

among

as

they

the

but

Ludamar, the

and

rainy

enriched

had of

happiness

;

of

;

which

Kaarta,

the

insult

inhabitants

Negro

to

this

revenge

a

thousands. nations

of

my

in

arrival

description

occurred.

the

of

park's

92

CHAPTER

travels

in

IX.

ofJarra,and the Moorish inhahitants The Author for,and obtains permission from All, the Moorish applies tories chiefor sovereign of Ludamar, to pass throughhis terriIII treated from Jarra,and arrives at Deena Departs Proceeds to Sampaha Finds a Negro who hy the Moors makes gunpowder Continues his journeyto Samee,where Moors who are sent forthat purpose by he is seized hy some Ali Is conveyed to the Moorish camp at JBenowm, a prisoner the borders of the Great Desert. on

Some account

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

X

of Jarra is of considerable extent ; the houses are the clay answering the built of clayand stone intermixed, HE

town

kingdom of Ludamar ; but the majorpart of the inhabitants are Negroes, from the borders of the southern states,who prefer a precarious under the Moors,which they purchaseby a tribute, protection rather than continue exposed to their predatory hostilities. The tribute they pay is considerable ; and they manifest towards their Moorish superiors the most unlimited obedience and submission, and are treated by them with the utmost indignity and contempt. The Moors of this and the other states adjoining the country of the Negroes resemble in their persons the Mulattoes of the West Indies to so greata degree, as not easily them be from in and to truth,the presentgenedistinguished ; ration between the Moors (properly to be a mixed race seem so of the north,and the Negroesof the south,possessing called) of the worst qualities of both nations. many purpose

of mortar.

It is situated in the Moorish

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

93

\

Of the

of these Moorish tribes, from as distinguished origin the inhabitants of Barbary, from whom theyare divided by the Great Desert,nothingfarther seems than what is to be known related by John be Leo, the African,whose account may as follows : abridged Before the Arabian Conquest,about the middle of the seventh century,all the inhabitants of Africa, whether they descended from Numidians, Phoenicians, were Carthaginians, Komans, Vandals,or Goths, were comprehendedunder the All these nations were of Mauri, or Moors. verted conname general of Mahomet, duringthe Arabian empire to the religion under the Caliphs. About this time many of the Numidian and supported who led a wanderinglife in the Desert, tribes, retired southward themselves upon the produceof their cattle, the Great Desert, to avoid the furyof the Arabians ; and across covered diswere by one of those tribes, says Leo (thatof Zanhaga), the Negro nations on the Niger. By and conquered which the river of Senegal, meant the Nigeris here undoubtedly is called Bafing, or the Black River. in the Mandingolanguage these peopleare now To what extent spreadover the "

'

to ascertain. African continent it is difficult

believe that their dominion

stretches from

There west

is reason

to

east, in

to a

Senegal (on the to the confinesof Abyssinia.They northern side of that river) and take every of people, subtle and treacherous race are a the credulous and unsuspecting and plundering of cheating opportunity habits of and general Negroes. But their manners of in the course incidents occur lifewill be best explained as line

narrow

my

or

belt,from the mouth

of the

narrative.

arrival at Jarra,I obtained a lodgingat the house had formerly of Daman Jumma, a Gambia Slatee. This man order an who had givenme borrowed goods from Dr. Laidley, of six slaves ; and thoughthe for the money, to the amount On

debt

was

my

of five

it. he readily acknowledged years'standing,

pake's

94

in

tkavels

promisedme what money he could raise. He was afraid, he could not pay more than in his present situation, he said, his assistance, He however, in two slaves' value. gave me exchangingmy beads and amber for gold,which was a more concealed from the Moors. and more easily article, portable the unsettled had already The difficulties we encountered, the savage and overbearing state of the country,and,above all, frightened my deportmentof the Moors, had so completely declared would rather that they relinquish attendants, they step farther to the every claim to reward,than proceedone eastward. Indeed,the dangerthey incurred of being seized became every day more by the Moors, and sold into slavery, In apparent; and I could not condemn their apprehensions. deserted by my that this situation, attendants,and reflecting behind me, and that a cut off by the war retreat was my Moorish countryof ten days'journeylaybefore me, I applied from Ali,the chief or sovereign to obtain permission to Daman of Ludamar, that I might pass throughhis countryunmolested, and

into Bambarra

was

messenger

encamped near order which

and I hired

as thither,

me

A

;

soon

as

of Daman's

one

such

should permission

to Ali, who dispatched

Benowm

;

and

as

slaves to

a

present

at

pany accom-

be obtained.

this time

was

was

necessary

in

insure success, I sent him five garments of cotton cloth, for one I purchasedof Daman of my fowling-pieces

to

Fourteen

in settling thisaffair; but,on the evening dayselapsed of the 26th of February, of Ali's slaves arrived with directions, one in safety to conduct me as he pretended, as far as Goomba ;

and told

me

I

was

for his attendance.

to pay

My

him

one

garment of blue

cotton

faithfulboy,observing that I

was

cloth about

proceedwithout him, resolved to accompany me ; and told that though he wished me had to turn back, he never me of deserting entertained any serious thoughts me, but had been advised to it by Johnson,with a view to induce me to return for Gambia. immediately

to

THE

Feb. 27th.

"

convey

them

to

INTERIOR

I delivered most Gambia

as

soon

OF

AFRICA.

of my as

95

Johnson,to a duplipossible, reserving cate papers to

for

myselfin case of accidents. I likewise leftin Daman's other thingsthat were a bundle of clothes and possession not absolutely necessary ; for I wished to diminish my baggage as much as possible, that the Moors mighthave fewer inducements to plunder us. from Jarra in the we Thingsbeingthus adjusted, departed forenoon,and sleptat Troomgoomba, a small walled village inhabited by a mixture of Negroes and Moors. On the day following (Feb.28th)we reached Quira ; and on the 29th,after to Compe, a over a sandycountry, a toilsome journey we came to the Moors ; from whence, on the wateringplacebelonging to Deena, a large we town, and, proceeded morningfollowing, like Jarra,built of stone and clay. The Moors are here in to the Negroesthan at Jarra. bled They assemgreaterproportion round the hut of the Negro where I lodged,and treated with the greatestinsolence. They hissed,shouted,and me abused me ; they even spat in my face with a view to irritate a pretextfor seizing my baggage. But, me, and afford them such insultshad not the desired effect, theyhad recourse finding and a Christian, to the final and decisive argument, that I was lawful plunderto the followers that my propertywas of course and robbed of Mahomet. openedmy bundles, They accordingly that of everything me they fancied. My attendants,finding insisted on returning to everybodycould rob me with impunity, Jarra.

(March2d) I endeavoured by all means day following in my to prevail upon my peopleto go on ; but they power farther to fear some continued obstinate ; and havingreason still insult from the fanatic Moors, I resolved to proceedalone. I departed the next morning,about two o'clock, Accordingly of the wild It was from Deena. moonlight ; but the roai'ing with caution. beasts made it necessary to proceed The

park's

96

ground about half a pieceof rising and looking back, mile from the town, I heard somebodyhalloo, after me. He informed me that saw my faithfulboy running had gone back to Benowm, and that Daman's Negro Ali's man for Jarra ; but he said he had no doubt if about to depart was that he could persuadethe latter to I would stop a little, and in about an hour I waited accordingly, us. accompany the boy returned with the Negro ; and we continued travelling with the Asdejpias a over sandy country, covered chiefly when we came of deserted until mid-day, to a number giganteo, huts ; and seeingsome distance, appearances of water at a little I sent the boy to filla soofroo ; but as he was examiningthe that was probably the on placefor water, the roaringof a lion, induced the frightened same boy to return in haste,and pursuit, In the afternoon submitted patiently to the disappointment. we inhabited chiefly reached a town we by Foulahs,called Samamingkoos. Next morning(March4tli) set out for Sampaka,which we placewe reached about two o'clock. On the road we observed of locusts; the trees were immense quantities quiteblack with in These insects devour every vegetable them. that comes their way, and in a short time completely of its a tree strip The leaves. noise of their excrement falling upon the leaves I had reached

When

.

in

travels

and

withered

grass, very

tree is shaken

When

a

course

was

a

much

resembles

a

shower

of rain.

it is astonishing to see what struck, will flyoff. In their flight a cloud of them theyyieldto the current of the wind,which at this season of the year is always it is difiicult from the north-east. Should the wind shift, to conceive where theycould collect food,as the whole of their

marked

or

with desolation.

Sampaka is a largetown, barrans

and

when

thrice attacked

the Moors

and

Bam-

by the former ; but they driven off with greatloss, were thoughthe kingof Bambarra was afterwards obliged and allthe other towns to giveup this, as far were

at war,

was

THE

INTERIOR

OF

97

AFRICA.

Goomba, in order to obtain a peace. Here I lodgedat the house of a Negro who practised the art of making gunpowder. He showed me a bag of nitre, were very white,but the crystals much smaller than common. They procure it in considerable from the pondswhich are filledin the rainy quantities season, and to which the cattleresort for coolness duringthe heat of the white efilorescence day. When the water is evaporated, a is observed on the mud, which the natives collectand purify in such a manner their purpose. The Moors supply as to answer them with sulphur from the Mediterranean ; and the process is the differentarticlestogether in a wooden by pounding completed The grainsare very unequal,and the sound of its mortar. is by no means so sharp as that produced explosion by European gunpowder. March 5th. We departedfrom Sampaka at daylight. About noon called Dangali we stoppeda littleat a village ; and in the eveningarrived at Dalli. We saw upon the road two largeherds of camels feeding.When the Moors turn their camels to feed,they tie up one of their fore legs, to prevent their straying.This happenedto be a feast day at Dalli, and the peoplewere dancingbefore the Dooty'shouse. But when theywere informed that a white man was come into the town, and came to the placewhere I lodged, they left off dancing, walkingin regularorder,two and two, with the music before them. They playupon a sort of flute; but instead of blowing into a hole in the side, theyblow obHquelyover the end,which is half shut by a thin pieceof wood ; theygovern the holes on the side with their fingers, and playsome simpleand very night airs. They continued to dance and singuntil midplaintive which time I was surrounded by so greata crowd ; during it necessary for me to satisfy their curiosity as made by sitting as

"

still. March 6th. "

who townspeople,

We

stopthere this morningbecause

were

goingfor Goomba H

on

the

some

of the

day following,

98

park's

wished to accompany

us

;

in

travels

but in order to avoid the crowd

of

peoplewhich usuallyassembled in the evening,we went to a called Samee, where we were to the east of Dalli, Negro village Dooty,who on this occasion kindlyreceived by the hospitable and feast killed two fine sheep,and invited his friends to come with him. March

7th. "

Our

a white entertaining

landlord

so

was

that he

proud of

insisted on

the honour of

with staying when he said him and his friends until the cool of the evening, within As I was now he would conduct me to the next village. from the two da^^s' journeyof Goomba, I had no apprehensions noon Moors, and readily acceptedthe invitation. I spent the forewith these poor Negroes; their company very pleasantly of their manners the more the gentleness was as acceptable, and barbarity of contrast to the rudeness a striking presented the Moors. a They enlivened their conversation by drinking made from corn fermented liquor the same sort of beer that I have described in a former chapter and better I never tasted man,

my

"

"

in Great Britain. In the midst of this harmless

I flatteredmyselfthat festivity all dangerfrom the Moors was over. placed Fancy had already of the banks and the me on to my imagination Niger, presented in my future progress, when a party a thousand delightful scenes of Moors unexpectedly entered the hut,and dispelled the golden dream. They came, they said,by All's orders,to convey me If I went peaceably, to his camp at Benowm. theytold me I had nothingto fear ; but if I refused, they had orders to bring and terror,which me by force. I was struck dumb by surprise the Moors observing, endeavoured to calm my apprehensions by I had the that Their fear. visit, repeating assurance nothingto of All'swife,Fatima, theyadded,was occasioned by the curiosity who had heard so much about Christians, that she was very anxious to see one. As soon should be satisfied, as her curiosity theyhad no doubt,theysaid,that Ali would give me a hand-

THE

INTERIOR

present,and send

some

Findingentreatyand

a

OF

9^

AFRICA.

person to conduct

me

to Bambarra.

resistance equally I preparedto fruitless,

follow the messengers, and took leave of landlord and his my faithful company with great reluctance. Accompaniedby my

boy (forDaman's we

by

slave made

his escape reached Dalli in the evening, where we

the Moors March

March

duringthe night.

8th.

We

"

throughthe

seeingthe Moors), watched were strictly

on

woods

to

9th." We

arrived at

conducted

were

where Dangali, continued

Sampaka.

Moors,well armed, who

our

On

told

by a circuitous path we slept. and in the afternoon journey,

the road

we

saw

a

party of

that

theywere huntingfor a slave ; but the townspeopleinformed us that a party runaway of Moors had attempted cattle from the town in to steal some the morning,but were the their describing repulsed ; and on satisfiedthat they were the same banditti were persons, we that

had

we

Next On

us

in the woods.

seen

morning(March10th)we

the road

she informed

overtook

a

that she

was

we us

set out for

Samamingkoos. woman boys,with an ass ; goingfor Bambarra,but had been and two

stoppedon the road by a party of Moors, who had taken most of her clothes, and some goldfrom her ; and that she would be till the fast moon under the necessity of returning to Deena The same was over. was seen, which eveningthe new moon made in ushered in the month Rhamadan. Large fireswere of victuals difierent parts of the town, and a greaterquantity than usual dressed upon the occasion. March the Moors 11th. By daylight "

but

I had suffered much

as

boy fill a assured

me

soofroo of water that

theyshould

from thirst on for my not

own

were

in

readiness;

the road,I made my use ; for the Moors

taste either meat

or

drink until

that the excessive heat of the sim, their scruples, and the dust we raised in travelling, overcame and made my soofroo a very useful partof our baggage. On. sunset.

However,

I found

100

"

park's

travels

in

arrival at Deena, I went to pay my respectsto one of All's in a low hut,with five or six more I found him sitting sons. of his companions, washingtheir hands and feet,and frequently our

barrelled gun, and repairone him

it out and spitting mouths, gargling, sooner no seated,than he handed me a doubleto dye the stock of a blue colour, and told me

into their

takingwater again. I was

in pergreatdifficulty suading However, nothingabout the matter.

of the locks.

that I knew

I found

repairthe gun, you you cannot knives and scissors immediately ; and when says

as

he, if

assured interpreter,

some

acted

no

snatched up a musket that stood by the muzzle close to the boy'sear, would him dead upon from him, and

my

giveme boy, who

he hastily such articles, him, cocked it,and putting

that I had

him

shall

have certainly

shot

the spot,had not the Moors wrested the musket made signsfor us to retreat. The boy,being

terrifiedat this treatment, attemptedto make his escape in the but was of the Moors, who night, preventedby the vigilance

guardedus with strict attention ; and at nightalwayswent to sleepby the door of the hut,in such a situationthat it was almost impossible to pass without stepping upon them. March 12th. We departedfrom Deena towards Benowm, "

and

about

nine o'clock

to

came

a

Korree,whence

the Moors

account of the on preparingto departto the southward, of water ; here w^e filledour soofroo, and continued our scarcity journeyover a hot sandycountry,covered with small stunted when the heat of the sun shrubs,until about one o'clock, us to stop. But water our obliged being expended,we could remain longerthan a few minutes to collecta not prudently were

littlegum,

which

is

keeps the

mouth

moist,and allaysfor

an

for water, as it time the painin the

excellent succedaneum a

throat. About

five o'clock

of Ali.

It

we

came

in

sightof Benowm,

dence the resi-

to the eye a great number of dirtypresented lookingtents,scattered without order,over a largespace of

THE

gi'ound ; and

among

INTERIOR

the tents

OF

101

AFRICA.

appearedlargeherds

of

camels,

and goats. We reached the skirts of the camp a little cattle, before sunset,and, with much entreaty, water. a little procured than the peoplewho drew My arrival was no sooner observed, water their buckets,those in the tents at the wells threw down mounted their horses,and men, women, and children, came towards me. running or galloping by such a crowd that I another took off pulledmy clothes,

I

found

rounded myselfsurcould scarcely move ; one me my hat,a third stopped soon

my waistcoat buttons,and a fourth called out. La and signified, in a threatening illah el allah Mahomet rasowl allaJd^'^ to

examine

We reached at repeat those words. the king's tent,where we found a great number of people, length manner,

and

men

that I must

women,

assembled.

Ali

was

sitting upon

leather cushion, a few hairs from his upper clipping before him. attendant holding up a looking-glass to

He

black

a

female

appeared

old man, of the Arab cast,with a longwhite beard ; he had a sullen and indignant me aspect. He surveyed

be

and

lip;

a

an

speakArabic ; he appearedmuch surprised, beinganswered in the negative, and and continued silent. The surrounding attendants, cially espethe ladies, more were inquisitive ; they asked abundantly thousand questions, a inspectedevery part of my apparel, and obliged to unbutton my waistcoat, searched my pockets, me counted my and display the whiteness of my skin ; they even in truth a if theydoubted whether I was toes and fingers, as announced evening human being. In a littletime the priest the Moor, who had prayers ; but before the peopledeparted, about to present informed me that Ali was acted as interpreter, with something round,I observed some to eat ; and looking me boys bringinga wild hog, which they tied to one of the tent to me to killand dress itfor supper. and Ali made signs strings,

with

of the and inquired attention,

*

Moors

See page 85.

if I could

park's

102

Though eat

to

I

any

very

was

part of

an

hungry, I did animal

therefore told him that I

and

in

travels

so

think

not

detested

much

ate such

never

it

by

food.

prudent

the Moors, They then

at me hog,in hopesthat it would run 'immediately for they believe "that a great enmitysubsists between hogs and for the animal Christians but in this theywere disappointed, than he began to attack indiscriminate his liberty, no sooner regained

untied the

"

"

every person that

in his-way, and at last took The which the king was sitting. came

shelter under the couch upon I assemblybeing thus dissolved,

conducted to the tent of

was

allowed to to enter,nor pei*mitted touch anything to it. I requested somethingto eat, belonging at lengthsent and a littleboiled corn, with salt and water, was in a wooden bowl ; and a mat was me spreadupon the sand surrounded by the before the tent, on which I passedthe night, but Ali's chief slave,

was

not

"

curious multitude.

Ali,with sunrise,

few

visitme,

came attendants, that he had provided and signified a

I would

be sheltered from

At

a

the

I

on

horseback to

hut for me, where

ducted conaccordingly cool and thither,and found the hilt comparatively pleasant.It was constructed of corn stalks set up on end, in the form of a square, with a flat roof of the same materials, of which was tied the wild to one supportedby forked sticks, This animal had certainly been plated hog before mentioned. there by Ali's order, out of derision to a Christian ; and I found it a very disagreeable of a number inmate,as it drew together until boys,who amused themselves by beatingit with sticks, theyhad so irritatedthe hog that it ran and bit at every person sun.

was

within its reach. I Moors a

seated in this my assembled in crowds to behold

was

no

troublesome

sooner

levee,for

and show stockings, jacketand waistcoat

I

them to show

was

my

than the habitation,

new me

;

to obliged

foot,and

them

how

but I found it rather

even

my

take

of my off my

were

put

take off to

clothes

one

on

THE

and

off;theywere

INTERIOR

OF

103

AFRICA.

much

with the curious contrivance delighted of buttons. All this was to every succeeding to be repeated visitor; for such as had already these wonders,insistedon seen their friends seeingthe same I was ployed, em; and in this manner and undressing, dressing buttoningand unbuttoning, from noon Ali sent me for to night. About eighto'clock, supper

kouskous

some

and

salt and

water, which

was

very

acceptable, beingthe onlyvictuals I had tasted since morning. I observed that, in the night, the Moors keptregular watch, and

looked into the hut to see if I was, asleepand frequently if it was About a wisp of grass. quitedark,they would light o'clock in the morning,a Moor entered the hut,probably two with a view to steal something, or perhapsto murder me ; and gropingabout,he laid his hand upon my shoulder. As I sprang at best but suspicious characters, nightvisitorswere he laid his hand

up the moment

upon

and the Moor, in boy,and fellwith his

me

;

his haste to get off, stumbled over my face upon the wild hog,which returned the attack Moor's

The

arm.

man

alarmed

that I had made immediatelyconjectured their horses,and number of them mounted

the

tent, who king's

my

escape, and

a

of this

screams

the by biting the peoplein

preparedto pursue me. in his own did not sleep

I observed upon

tent,but

came

this occasion that Ali

galloping upon

a

white

considerable distance ; indeed,the made him so jealous and cruel behaviour of this man tyrannical slaves and his own around him, that even of

horse from

every

a

small tent at

person knew not

a

the Moors had slept.When of this outcry,theyall went to him the cause away, explained until morning. and I was to sleepquietly permitted March 13th. With the returning daycommenced the same round of insult and irritation: the boys assembled to beat the It is and women to plaguethe Christian. hog,and the men who for me to describe the behaviour of a people impossible and exult in the miseries and misstudymischief as a science, domestics

"

where

he

park's

104

of

fortunes that

the

the

whereon

a

in

sufficient Moor the

come

that,

same

a

as

every any sunset

the

into

spy

such

in

a

and

of I

of

obliged the

them,

rudest

to

I

of

in

the

country, I

had

ill

every

heavily

so

away

with on

insult

an

earth.

unruffled

I

bu

from

had

imagine Anxious,

complied ;

:

that

afford

to

readily

of

heart

easily fear.

to

was

combined

withal,

possible, I

me,

bore

suffer, sava^-es

if

and,

the

were

will

thing

every

treating

pass

reader

I

circumstances

from

prevailed

subject

stranger^

these

case,

my

distinguish proper

a

humanity

as

a

was

of

each

;

suspicion

a

patiently life

my

of

favour, for

pretence

period

insults

the

situation,

command,

was

spark

conciliate

to

no

every

and

here

propensities. Christian

all

person,

however, Moors

when

found

mankind,

a

was

drive

to

but

;

their

I

and

of

rest

exercise

to

unprotected, is

the

from

observe

to

which

fanaticism,

and

ferocity,

rudeness,

sufficient

is

It

fellow-creatures.

their

Moors

in

travels

tnever

sunrise

countenance,

the with did to

THE

INTERIOR

OF

CHAPTER Various

Is visitedhy some

"

The Author

"

hride

and

X HE

Moorish receives

an

OtJier circumstances

"

X.

duringthe Author

occurrences

105

AFRICA.

at Benowm confinement ladies A funeraland wedding extraordinary presentfrom the illustrativeof the Moorish character s

"

manners,

are Moors,thoughvery indolent themselves,

and

masters, rigidtaskfull employment.

person under them in sent to the woods to collectwithered grass

keep every

My boy Demba

was

for Ali's horses ; and, after myself, theyat last found out

concerning varietyof projects an employmentfor me ; this was I was other than the respectable officeof barber. to make no in the royalpresence, and my firstexhibition in this capacity the head of the young with the task of shaving to be honoured I accordingly seated myselfupon the sand, princeof Ludamar. A beside me. and the boy,with some sat down hesitation, small razor, about three inches long, was put into my hand,and of want I was from my own ordered to proceed ; but whether or the improper skill, shape of the instrument,I unfortunately made a shghtincision in the boy'shead,at the very commencement awkward of the operation ; and the king observingthe manner was

in which in very

I held the razor, concluded that his son's head

improperhands,and

and walk out of the tent. circumstance as

;

ordered

me

This I considered

for I had laid it down

as

a

to as

resignthe a

razor,

very fortunate

rule,to make

as the onlymeans as possible, insignificant liberty.

useless and my

a

myself of

covering re-

park's

106 ISth.

March

"

Four Moors

havingseized interpreter,

my

in

travels

arrived from Jarra with Johnson him

before he

had

received

bringingwith

confinement : and intimation of my bundle of clothes that I had leftat Daman use, in

my was

case

I should return

by

the way

led into Ah's tent and examined

and I

was

sent for to

explainthe

use

;

Jumma's

them

a

house, for

of Jarra.

the bundle

any

Johnson

was

opened,

of the different articles.

happy,however,to find that Johnson had committed my I had When of Daman's wives. papers to the chargeof one the different articles of satisfied Ah's curiosity respecting the bundle was againtied up, and put into a large apparel, of the tent. The same cowskin bag,that stood in a corner eveningAH sent three of his peopleto inform me, that there and that to prevent thieves in the neighbourhood, were many it was the rest of my thingsfrom beingstolen, necessary to and them all into his tent. instruments, My clothes, convey carried away ; to me, were that belonged accordingly every thing clean linen very necessary and thoughthe heat and dust made shirt out of the I could not procure a single and refreshing, Ali was, however, small stock I had broughtalongwith me. of the quantity by not findingamong my eff'ects disappointed, of every sure goldand amber that he expected ; but to make to he sent the same people,on the morning following, thing, examine whether I had any thingconcealed about my person. They, with their usual rudeness,searched every part of my and stripped of all my gold, me amber, my watch,and apparel, in the night, I had fortunately, of my pocketcompasses. one buried the other compass in the sand ; and this, with the clothes I

was

I had on, The

leftme. allthat the tyranny of Ali had now to Moorish highlygratifying gold and amber were was

became an avarice,but the pocket compass soon objectof Ali was superstitious curiosity. very desirous to be informed why that small pieceof iron,the needle,alwayspointedto the

Great Desert ; and I found

myselfsomewhat

puzzledto

answer

THE

INTERIOR

OF

107

AFRICA.

the

would have question.To have pleadedmy ignorance, created a suspicion that I wished to conceal the real truth from him ; I therefore told him, that my mother resided far beyond the sands of Sahara,and that whilst she was alive the pieceof iron would alwayspointthat way, and serve as a guide to conduct me to her,and that if she was dead,it would pointto her grave. amazement

AH ;

now

turned

observingthat

it

looked at the compass it round and round

alwayspointedthe

same

with

redoubled

repeatedly ;

but

he took it up that he manifesting way,

with great caution, and returned it to me, thoughtthere was somethingof magic in it,and that he was afraid of keepingso dangerous instrument in his possession. an March

20th.

This

morninga council of chief men was held in All's tent respecting me thoughtheywere ; their decisions, all imfavourable to me, were related by different differently Some said that theyintended to put me to death ; persons. others,that I was onlyto lose my righthand ; but the most that which I received from All's own account was probable son, about in who nine of the to a boy came me evening, years age, "

and, with much

concern,

informed

me

that his uncle had persuaded

his father to put out my eyes, which theysaid resembled those of a cat, and that allthe Bushreens had approvedof this

father,however, he said,would not put the at into execution until Fatima,the queen, who was sentence present in the north,had seen me. I went to the March 21st. Anxious to know my destiny, kingearlyin the morning; and as a number of Bushreens were of discovering I thoughtthis a favourable opportunity assembled, their intentions. I therefore began by begginghis permission refused ; his wife,he said, to return to Jarra ; which was flatly to Benowm, had not yet seen me, and I must stay until she came afterwhich I should be at liberty horse, to depart ; and that my which had been taken away from me the day after I arrived, this answer should be again restored to me, as Ui;isatisfactory measure.

His

"

park's

108

was,

I

forced to appear

was

hopes of making account

pleased ; and

escape, at

my

of the excessive

in

travels

heat,and

this the

as

there

was

little

of the year, total want of water

season

on

in

until the rains had set the woods, I resolved to wait patiently should present favourable opportunity more in,or until some This tedious mahetJi the heart sick. itself; but ho^edeferred "

of travelling from day to day,and the thoughts procrastination throughthe Negro kingdomsin the rainyseason, which was now made me fast approaching, ; and havingpassed very melancholy in the morning, I found myselfattacked, a restlessnight, by a smart fever. I had wrappedmyselfclose up in my cloak,with and was a view to induce asleepwhen a party of perspiration, the Moors entered the hut,and with their usual rudeness,pulled cloak from

I made

me.

signsto

them

that I

was

sick,and

but I solicitedin vain ; my distress was it of sport to them, and they endeavoured to heighten matter in their power. This studied and degrading by every means wished much

to

sleep ;

exposed,was one of the constantly in the cup of captivity, and often made bitterest ingredients I have lifeitselfa burden to me. In these distressing moments envied the situationof the slave, who, amidst all his frequently could stillpossess the enjoyment of his own calamities, thoughts ; which I to a happiness had, for some time,been a stranger. Wearied out with such continual insults, and perhapsa little peevishfrom the fever,I trembled lest my passionmight and spur me to some unawares overleapthe bounds of prudence, to insolence,

which

I

was

of resentment, when death must be the inevitable In this perplexity I leftmy hut,and walked to consequence. some shady trees at a littledistance from the camp, where I lay

sudden act

here

followed me, and solitude persecution for a distressed Christian. was thoughttoo great an indulgence Ali"s son, with a number of horsemen,came to the galloping I beggedthey and ordered me to rise and follow them. place, would allow me to remain where I was, if it was onlyfor a few down.

But

even

THE

INTERIOR

OF

109

AFRICA.

hours ; but theypaid littleattention to what I said and after ; few of a them pulled out a pistol from a words,one threatening leather

bag,that was fastened to the pummel of his saddle, and it presenting towards me, snappedit twice. He did thiswith so much that I really doubted whether the pistol indifference, was loaded ; he cocked it a third time,and was striking the flintwith I begged them to desist, when a and returned pieceof steel, with them

to the camp.

him much

out of humour.

amused

himself for some

When He

entered All's tent,we found called for the Moor's pistol, and we

time with

the pan ; openingand shutting he fresh primed it ; and at length, taking up his powder-horn, turninground to me with a menacinglook,said somethingin I desired my boy,who Arabic,which I did not understand. before the tent, to enquire what offence I had comwas mitted sitting I was informed that havinggone out of the (;amp ; when without All's permission, that I had some theysuspected design of making my escape ; and that, in future, I if was without seen the skirts of the camp, orders had been giventhat I should be shot by the firstperson that observed me. In the afternoon the horizon, thick and to the eastward, was ingly a sand wind ; which accordhazy,and the Moors prognosticated and lasted,with commenced the morning following, on for two days. The force of the wind was intermissions, slight what a seaman would have in itself very great; it was of sand and dust denominated a stiff breeze ; but the quantity

not

carried before it,was such as to darken the whole atmosphere. It swept alongfrom east to west, in a thick and constant stream, and the air was at times so dark and full of sand,that it was difficultto

discern the

alwaysdress plentyamong

As

the Moors

this sand fellin great their victualsin the open air, adhered to the skin, the kouskous; it readily

versal and formed a cheapand uniby perspiration, hair-powder.The Moors wrap a cloth round their face the sand,and alwaysturn their prevent them from inhaling

when

to

tents. neighbouring

moistened

park's

110

backs to the wind when

travels

theylook

in

up, to

preventthe sand falling

into their eyes. of the camp had their feet, time,all the women stained of a dark saffron colour. and the ends of their fingers, About

I could

this

ascertain whether

never

this was

or by religion,

The

ladies had

to

way of ornament. been very troublesome

from

motives

of the curiosity me

ever

since my

of

Moorish arrival

from the eveningof the 25th (whether of others, or ungovernable impelledby their own instigation I or a party of curiosity, merely out of froHc, cannot affirm), into my hut,and gave me them came to understand plainly of their visitwas that the object to ascertain, by actual inspection, at Benowm

;

and

done

on

the

whether the rite of circumcision extended to the Nazarenes well as to the followers of Mahomet. The as (Christians), reader will easily decla^ at this unexpected judgeof my surprise ration ; and in order to avoid the proposed I thought scrutiny, it best to treat the business jocularly. I observed to them, that it was not customary in my countryto giveocular demonstration in such

cases, before

so

many

beautiful women

;

but

that if all of them

would retire, except the young ladyto whom I pointed (selecting the youngest and handsomest), I would her curiosity.The ladies enjoyedthe jest, and went satisfy damsel herself to whom heartily away laughing ; and the young I had giventhe preference (thoughshe did not avail herself of of inspection), the privilege seemed no way displeased at the for she soon afterwards sent me meal and some compliment, milk for my

March

supper. 28th. This

morninga largeherd of cattle arrived from the eastward ; and one of the drivers, Ali had to whom lent my horse,came into my hut with the legof an antelope as that my horse was before Ali's a present,and told me standing tent.

In

"

a

littletime Ali sent

one

of his slaves to inform

I must be in readiness to ride that,in the afternoon, of his women. him, as he intended to shew me to some

me,

out with

THE

About

four

INTERIOR

o'clock, AH, with

OF

Ill

AFRICA.

six of his courtiers, came

riding readily complied.

hut,and told me to follow them. I But here a new occurred. The Moors, accustomed to difficulty could not reconcile themselves to the a loose and easy dress, of my nankeen Ireeches, which theysaid were not appearance but,on account of their tightness, onlyinelegant, very indecent : and as this was a visit to ladies, Ali ordered my boy to bring out the loose cloak which I had alwaysworn since my arrival at Benowm, and told me to wrap it closeround me. We visited the tents of four differentladies, at every one of which I was with a bowl of milk and water. All these ladieswere presented which is considered here as the highest remarkablycorpulent, mark of beauty. They were and examined my very inquisitive, to

my

hair and skin with great attention ; but aiSfected to consider me and would knit their as a sort of inferiorbeingto themselves,

brows,and seemed

to

shudder,when

ness theylooked at the whitethis evening's excursion, my

of of my skin. In the course dress and appearance afforded infinite mirth to the company, who galloped round me, as if theywere a wild animal ; baiting various their muskets round their heads,and exhibiting twirling

their and horsemanship, to display activity seemingly a miserable captive. superior prowess over The Moors are They ride certainly very good horsemen. afford without fear ; their saddles beinghighbefore and behind, the whole them a very secure seat ; and if they chance to fall, country is so soft and sandy,that theyare very seldom hurt. Their greatestpride, and one of their principal amusements, is and then stop him with a to put the horse to his full speed, his down sudden jerk,so as frequently to bringhim upon Ali always rode upon a milk-white horse,with its haunches. tail dyed red. He never walked, unless when he went to say in the night, two or three horses were his prayers ; and even tent. distance from his own at a little alwayskeptreadysaddled, The Moors set a very highvalue upon their horses ; for it is by feats of

park's

112

in

travels

fleetnessthat theyare enabled to make so many superior predatoryexcursions into the Negro countries. They feed them three or four times a day,and generally givethem a large of sweet milk in the evening,which the horses appear quantity their

to reHsh very much.

which had been some time April3d. This forenoon a child, died in the next tent, and the mother and relations sickly, joinedby a immediatelybegan the death howl. They were "

of female visitors, who I had this melancholy concert. number

came

on

purpose

to

assist at

of seeingthe opportunity in the dusk of the which is generally burial, performedsecretly and frequently at onlya few yards distance from the evening, shrub ; and no Over the grave, theyplantone particular tent. to touch it, so great or even strangeris allowed to plucka leaf, a veneration have theyfor the dead. wind a whirlApril7th. About four o'clock in the afternoon, turned passedthroughthe camp with such violence that it overno

"

side of my hut. These from the Great Desert,and at this season of

three tents,and blew dow^n

whirlwinds the year, at

come

are

time.

one

which height,

so

common,

They carry at resemble,

one

that I have up a

seen

five or

six of them

of sand to an amazing quantities of so many distance, movingpillars

smoke. heat of the sun upon a dryand sandycountry scorching makes the air insufferably hot. Ali havingrobbed me of my of forminga comparative thermometer,I had no means judgment the beams of the ; but in the middle of the day,when verticalsun are seconded by the scorching wind from the Desert, the groundis frequently heated to such a degree, not to be as the Negro slaves will not run borne by the naked foot ; even The

from

one

tent to another without

their sandals.

At

this time

day,the Moors liestretched at lengthin their tents,either to move or unwilling asleep, ; and I have often feltthe wind so hot,that I could not hold my hand in the current of air,which of the

THE

INTERIOK

OF

AFRICA.

113

through the crevices of my hut,without feeling sensible pain. April8th. This day the wind blew from the south-west, and in the nightthere was a heavyshower of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning. April10th. In the eveningthe tabala, or largedrum, was beat to announce a wedding,which was held at one of the neighbouringtents. A great niunber of peopleof both sexes which take place assembled,but without that mirth and hilarity at a Negro wedding: here was neither singing nor dancing, other that I could perceive.A woman nor amusement any was beatingthe drum, and the other women joiningat times like a chorus,by setting up a shrill scream, and at the same time moving their tongues from one side of the mouth to the other with great celerity. I was and had returned soon tired, into my hut,where I was almost asleep, when old an sitting woman entered,with a wooden bowl in her hand, and signified that she had brought me a present from the bride. Before I could recover from the surprise which this message the created, woman dischargedthe contents of the bowl full in my face. with which, sort of holywater Finding that it was the same the Hottentots, is said to sprinkle married a new a priest among I began to suspect that the old ladywas actuated by couple, malice ; but she gave me to understand or mischief, seriously that it was benediction from the bride's own a nuptial person, and which,on such occasions, is alwaysreceived by the young favour. This being unmarried Moors as a mark of distinguished the case, I wiped my face,and sent my acknowledgmentsto the lady. The weddingdrum continued to beat,and the women all night. About nine in the morning, to sing, or rather whistle, the bride was broughtin state from her mother's tent, attended carried her tent (a present from who by a number of women others holdingby the the husband), some bearingup the poles, came

"

"

park's

114

strings

;

and

in

until

they

they

pitched

of

and

to

came

the

leading

men

having

people,

the

this

place

killed

ceremony

appointed

The

tent.

four

bullocks, another, was

marched,

they

manner

the

in

travels

and

they

distributed

concluded.

for

her

tied

formerly,

as

residence,

followed,

husband which

whisthng

to

the

with

the beef

a

tent

among

where number

strings; the

THE

INTERIOR

OF

\

AFRICA.

^17 ^

CHAPTER Occurrem^es Author

of the

at

the camp

continued

Houssa concerning latter The

The Author

route

"

s

the northward

XL collectedhy the Information

and

Timhuctoo ; and the situation describedfrom Morocco to Benowm

distressfrom "

"

"

hunger All

The Author

his camp to is carried prisoner to the new "

removes

to Queen Fatima encampment^ and is presented

from the want vJnE

whole month

"

Or

eat

tress dis-

ofwater.

had

elapsedsince I was led into captivity, which time each fresh during day broughtme returning distresses. I watched the lingering of the sun with course and blessed his eveningbeams as theyshed a yellow anxiety, lustre alongthe sandyfloor of my hut ; for it was then that my to pass the sultry nightin oppressors left me, and allowed me now

solitude and reflection. salt and midnighta bowl of kouskous,with some water,was broughtfor me and my two attendants ; thiswas our allowed us to allay the and it was all that was common fare, lowing of hunger,and supportnature for the whole of the folcravings day ; for it is to be observed that this was the Mahomedan Lent; and as the Moors keep the fast with a religious tian, strictness, theythoughtit proper to compelme, thougha Christo a similarobservance. ciled Time, however,somewhat reconsituation. I found that I could bear hungerand to my me I endeavoured to thirst better than I expected ; and at length the tedious hours by learning to write Arabic. The people beguile who came with the characmade me acquainted to see me, soon About

114

park's,travels

ters ; and I

in

that by engagingtheir attention in this discovered,

otherwise they would not so troublesome as they were nance have been. Indeed,when I observed any person whose counteit a rule to I thoughtbore malice towards me, I made what ask him, either to write in the sand himself, or to decipher and the prideof showing his superior I had already written, induced him to complywith my request. attainments generally All April14th. As Queen Fatima had not yet arrived. and bringher back with him ; but to go to the north, proposed two days' sary was as the place journeyfrom Benowm, it was necesrefreshment on the road ; and AK, suspicious to have some that he never of those about him,was so afraidof beingpoisoned, dressed under his own immediate ate any thingbut what was and the flesh inspection.A fine bullock was therefore killed, dried in the sun ; and this, was beingcut up into thin slices, with two bagsof drykouskous,formed his travelling provisions. Previous to his departure the black peopleof the town of Benowm to their annual custom, to show their came, according tributeof corn and cloth. They arms, and bringtheir stipulated but badly armed : twenty-two with muskets, fortyor were with bows and arrow^s, and nearly number of men the same fifty and boys,with spears only. They arrangedthemselves before the tent, where theywaited untiltheir arms examined and were littledisputes settled. some About midnighton the 16th,Ali departedquietly from Benowm, accompanied by a few attendants. He was expected to return in the course of nine or ten days. of Ali,a Shereef April18th. Two daysafter the departure arrived with salt and some other articlesfrom Walet,the capital of the kingdom of Biroo. As there was no tent appropriated for He seemed him, he took up his abode in the same hut with me. to be a well-informed man, and his acquaintance both with the way,

"

"

Arabic and Bambarra and

safety througha

tongues enabled him number

of

to travel with

ease

kingdoms;for thoughhis place

THE

of residence

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

117

Walet,he had visited Houssa,and had lived some so particularl Upon my inquiring years at Timbuctoo. about the distance from Walet to Timbuctoo,he asked me if I intended to travel that way ; and beinganswered in the affirmative, he shook his head,and said, it would not do ; for that Chi-istianswere looked upon there as the devil's chijdren, and enemies to the Prophet. From him I learned the following That Houssa was the largest he had ever town : particulars was seen largerthan Timbuctoo ; but being ; that Walet and its trade consisting of salt, remote from the Niger, it chiefly not so much resorted to by strangers was ; that between Benowm and Walet was ten days'journey ; but the road did not lead themselves throughany remarkable towns, and travellers supported milk from the Arabs who keep their herds by purchasing were over a by the wateringplaces journeys ; two of the daj^'s From Walet to Timbuctoo was sandycountry,without water. and the journey eleven daysmore more plentiful, ; but water was was usually performed many upon bullocks. He said there were Jews at Timbuctoo, but they all spoke Arabic,and used the He frequently same pointedhis hand to prayers as the Moors. that the south-east quarter, or rather the east by south, observing Timbuctoo was situated in that direction; and though I made foimd him I never him repeatthis information againand again, which was to the southward. than half a point, to vary more Moora April24th. This morning Shereef Sidi Mahomed Abdalla,a native of Morocco, arrived with five bullocks loaded months at Gibraltar, resided some with salt. He had formerly where he had pickedup as much Englishas enabled him to was

"

"

informed me, that he had been five months in coming from Santa Cruz ; but that greatpart of him to I requested the time had been spent in trading.When

make

himself understood.

He

from Morocco to days employed in travelling Benowm, he gave them as follows : To Swera,three days; to toWadenoon,four;toLakeneigh, three;toJiniken,ten; Agadier, enumerate

the

"

park's

118

travels

in

five ; to Tisheet, ten ; to Benowm, five; to Zeeriwin-zeriman, rest a long while ten ; in all, days; but travellersusually fifty

Jiniken and Tisheet,at the latterof which placestheydig with the which is so greatan articleof commerce the rock salt, at

Negroes. with In conversing

these Shereefs and the differentstrangers

time with rather less that resorted to the camp, I passedmy uneasiness than formerly.On the other hand,as the dressing victuals was

of my

whom

over

now

leftentirely to the

I had not the smallest

illsupplied, worse

even

of All's slaves,

care

I found myselfbut control,

than in the fast month

;

for two

sive succes-

to send us our accustomed meal ; and nightstheyneglected thoughmy boy went to a small Negro town near the camp, and from hut to hut,he could onlyprobeggedwith greatdiligence cure few he handfuls which shared of a readily ground nuts, with me. is certainly a very painful sensation, Hunger,at first, but when it has continued for some time,this pain is succeeded by languorand debility ; in which case, a draughtof water, by exhilarate the spirits, will greatly keepingthe stomach distended,

and

for a short time every sort of uneasiness. Johnson were very much dejected.They laystretched upon

remove

and Demba

the sand,in a sort of I found kous arrived, no

inclination to

like respiration, more,

dimness

a

attemptedto

torpidslumber ; and even when the kousin awakeningthem. I felt some difficulty but was affectedwith a deep convulsive sleep, constant sighing, and, what alarmed me still of sight, and a tendencyto faint when I

sit up.

These symptoms did not go off untilsome time after I had received nourishment. We return

In

had

been for

from Saheel

the meanwhile

related in

of All's days in dailyexpectation with his wife Fatima. (orthe north country) Mansong, king of Bambarra, as I have some

ChapterVIII.,had sent to Ali for a party of horse to assistin storming Gedingooma. With this demand Ali had not onlyrefused to comply,but had treated the messengers with

THE

INTERIOR

OF

119

AFRICA.

and contempt ; upon which Mansong gave greathaughtiness up all thoughts of

takingthe town,

and

to prepared

chastise All for

his contumacy.

Thingswere messenger

in this situation when, on

arrived at Benowm

that the Bambarra

army

was

the 29th of

a April, with the disagreeable intelligence the frontiersof Ludaapproaching

This threw

the whole countryinto confusion ; and in the afternoon All's son, with about twenty horsemen,arrived at

mar.

Benowm.

ordered all the cattle to be driven away diately, immeallthe tents to be struck,and the peopleto hold themselves He

in readiness to

the next morning. departat daylight April30th. At daybreakthe whole camp was in motion. The baggagewas carried upon bullocks, the two tent poles being and the differentwooden articlesof the placedone on each side, "

tent distributed in like manner

and all, Moorish

upon this was women

are

rode upon and

a

northward company,

or

was

thrown

two women,

over

for the

very bad walkers. The

with camels,

until noon,

when

was

favouriteconcubines king's a saddle of a particular construction, from the sun. We proceeded to the ordered the whole the king's son

thick low wood, which was sent alongwith the two tents,and arrived

excepttwo tents,to

upon our right. I in the eveningat a

the tent cloth

one commonlyplaced

to shelterthem

canopy

;

enter

a

Negro town called Farani ; here we pitched the tents in an open place, at no great distance from the town. The hurryand confusion which attended this decampment of victuals; the usual quantity the slaves from dressing prevented should be exhausted before they and lest their dry provisions but Ah and reached their placeof destination (foras yet none whither we knew the chief men were going),they thought proper to make me observe this day as a day of fasting. May 1st. As I had some reason to suspectthat this day in the morning to I went also to be considered as a fast, was fi'omthe of Farani,and beggedsome the Negro town provisions to come supplied Dooy, who readily my wants, and desired me "

park's

120

travels

in

his house every day duringmy stay in the neighbourhood. These hospitable peopleare looked upon by the Moors as an Two of All's and are treated accordingly. of slaves, race abject

to

household

a slaves,

with the two

and

man

tents,went

a

woman,

who

had

the cattlefrom

this morning to water

wells,at which there began to be

the town

along

come

great scarcity.

a

observed the cattle approaching, they

the

Negro women and ran with all possible haste towards took up their pitchers the town ; but before they could enter the gate, they were them to bringback the who compelled stoppedby the slaves, and empty it into water theyhad drawn for their own famihes, this was the troughsfor the cattle. When exhausted, they When

were

ordered to draw water

until such time

as

the cattle had

slave actually broke two wooden all drank ; and the woman because they were the heads of the black girls, bowls over in obeyingher commands. dilatory of Farani,and May 3d. We departedfrom the vicinity after a circuitous route through the woods, arrived at All's than that larger camp in the afternoon. This encampment was

somewhat

"

of Benowm, and about two

was

situated in the middle

miles distant from

of

a

thick wood

I Negro town, called Bubaker. All,in order to pay my respectsto a

waited upon immediately with him from Saheel. Queen Fatima, who had come seemed much with my coming; shook hands with pleased and

informed

his wife that I

of the Arab

was

the Christian.

She

He me,

was

a

longblack hair,and remarkably corpulent.She appearedat firstrather shocked at the thought ^of havinga Christian so near her ; but when I had (bymeans of a Negro boy,who spokethe Mandingo and Arabic tongues) which her curiosity answered a greatmany questions, suggested, of the the country she seemed more at Christians, respecting with a bowl of milk,which I considered me ease, and presented woman

as

a

very favourable

The

heat

was

now

cast,with

omen.

almost insufferable; all nature

seemed

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

121

sinkingunder it. The distant countrypresentedto the eye a dreary expanse of sand,with a few stunted trees and prickly bushes,in the shade of w^hich the hungrycattle licked up the withered grass, while the camels and goats pickedofifthe scanty of water was greaterhere than at Benowm. foKage.The scarcity Day and nightthe wells were crowded with cattle, lowingand with each other to come at the troughs fighting ; excessive thirst made many of them furious; others, being too weak to contend for the water, endeavoured to quench their thirst by devouringthe black mud from the gutters near the wells ; which theydid with great avidity, though it was commonly fatal to them. This

of great scarcity

felt

severely by all the peopleof the camp, and by none more than myself;for though Ali allowed me skin for containing a water, and Fatima,once small supply, in distress, when I was or twice, a gave me yet such was the barbarous disposition of the Moors at the wells, that when my boy attemptedto fillthe skin,he commonly received a sound drubbingfor his presumption.Every one was

draw the

water

astonished that the slave of water

was

Christian should attempt to from wells which had been dug by the followers of

Prophet.

This

treatment

that I believe he would

a

the boy, lengthso frightened have perished with thirstthan

at

sooner

fillthe skin.

attemptedagainto with beggingwater

He thereforecontented himself

Negro slaves that attended the camp, and I followed his example,but with very indifierent and was for though I let no opportunity slip, very success; both to the Moors and the Negroes, urgent in my solicitations, and frequently but illsupplied, I was passedthe nightin the from

situation of Tantalus.

the

No

sooner

I shut my eyes, than and rivers of my native

had

fancywould convey me to the streams land ; there, as I wandered alongthe verdant brink,I surveyed and hastened to swallow the with transport, awakened me, draught; but alas! disappointment delightful

the clear stream

"

park's

122

and I found

travels

in

amidst of thirst, perishing captive, myselfa lonely

the wilds of Africa.

havingsolicitedin vain for water night, I resolved to try my being quitefeverish,

One and

wells,which

were

about

half

a

mile

at the camp,

fortune at the

distant from

the

camp.

beingguidedby the arrived at the place soon ; where 1 found lowingof the cattle, I requested the Moors very busy drawing water. permission driven away with outrageousabuse. but was to drink, Passing, where I came at last to one however,from one well to another, and two boys. I made the same there was onlyan old man drew me requestto this man, and he immediately up a bucket about to take hold of it,he recollected of water ; but,as I was that his bucket might be and fearing that I was a Christian, and he dashed the water into the trough, polluted by my lips, told me to drink from thence. Though this troughwas none of the largest, and three cows were drinkingin it,I already in for my share ; and kneelingdown, thrust resolved to come I set out about Accordingly,

my

head

between

two

and midnight,

of the

cows,

and

drank

with

great

until the water was pleasure, nearlyexhausted,and the cows began to contend with each other for the last mouthful. month of In adventures of this nature I passedthe sultry tion. May, duringwhich no material changetook placein my situaAli stillconsidered me as a lawful prisoner ; and Fatima, of victuals than I had thoughshe allowed me a larger quantity been accustomed to receive at Benowm, had as yet said nothing of my release. In the meantime the frequent the subject on and distant lightning, clouds, changesof the wind, the gathering with other appearances of approaching rain,indicated that the the Moors annuallyevacuate wet season at hand ; when was the countryof the Negroes, and return to the skirtsof the Great Desert. consider that my This made fate was me drawing towards a crisis, and I resolved to wait for the event without any seeming uneasiness ; but circumstances occurred which

THE

INTERIOR

produceda changein my or

had

reason

to

OF

favour

more

expect. The

123

AFRICA.

suddenlythan case

was

I had foreseen,

this ; the

fugitive

Kaartans,who had taken refugein Ludamar, as I have related in ChapterVIII., findingthat the Moors were about to leave the resentment of their own them, and dreading whom sovereign, offered to treat with Ali for two they had so baselydeserted, hundred

Moorish

horsemen

to

co-operatewith them

expelDaisy from Gedingooma; for vanquishedor humbled, they considered to

return

to their native

towns,

nor

in

an

efibrt

until

Daisy should be that they could neither live in security in any of the

neighboiu-ing kingdoms. With a view to extort money from these people, of this treaty,Ali dispatched his son to by means of a few days. Jarra,and preparedto follow him in the course This was of too great consequence an to me to be opportunity neglected.I immediately appKed to Fatima (who,I found,had the chief direction in all affairsof state), and begged her interest with Ali,to give me him to Jarra. permissionto accompany This request,after some received. was hesitation, favourably Fatima looked kindly on and, I believe,was at length me, with compassion towards me. moved My bundles were brought of All's tent, from the largecowskin bag that stood in the comer and the use of the differentarticles, ordered to explain and I was of puttingon the boots,stockings, shew the method etc.,with told that,in the course and was all which I cheerfully complied, of a few days,I should be at liberty to depart. find the means that I should certainly therefore, Believing, I now of escaping from Jarra,if I should once get thither, freely would soon minate terhope that my captivity indulgedthe pleasing in this idea, not havingbeen disappointed ; and happily I shall pause in this placeto collect and bringinto one pointof view

I had

the Moorish character and country,as into the preceding fair opportunity of introducing

such observations no

narrative.

on

124

PARK

S TEAVELS

CHAPTEE

IN

XII.

the Moorish on furthermiscellaneous reflections the Great Observations concerning character and manners wild and dornestic, etc, etc. Desert,its animals,

some Containing

"

XHE

of this part of Africa are divided into many accordingto separatetribes; of which the most formidable, what

Moors

was

reportedto

me,

are

those of Trasart and

Braken,

Senegalriver. The tribes of Gedumah, Jafnoo,and Ludamar, thoughnot so numerous nevertheless very powerful and warHke, are as the former, who exercises absoand are each governedby a chief, lute or king, his ovm over horde,without acknowledging jurisdiction to a common allegiance sovereign.In time of peace, the employment of the peopleis pasturage. The Moors,indeed, subsist chiefly the flesh of their cattle,and are alwaysin on In consequence the extreme of either gluttony or abstinence. of the frequent and severe fastswhich their religion and enjoins, the toilsome journeyswhich they sometimes undertake across the Desert,they are enabled to bear both hungerand thirst fortitude; but whenever with surprising occur opportunities their appetite, of satisfying devour more at one theygenerally meal than would serve a European for three. They pay but littleattention to agriculture, their corn, cotton cloth, purchasing from the Negroes,in exchangefor salt, and other necessaries, which theydigfrom the pitsin the Great Desert. The natural barrenness of the countryis such,that it furnishes but few materials for manufacture. The Moors, howwhich inhabit the northern bank

of the

II

THE

ever, contrive to

weave

INTERIOR

a

OF

125

AFRICA.

with which theycover strong cloth,

their tents ; the thread is spun by their women from of goats,and theyprepare the hides of their cattle so

the hair as

nish to fur-

saddles,bridles,pouches,and other articles of leather. skilfulto convert the native iron, They are likewise sufficiently which theyprocure from the Negroes, into spears and knives, and also into pots for boiling their food ; but their sabres and other weapons, as well as their fire-arms and ammunition,they

purchasefrom the Europeansin exchangefor the Negro slaves which theyobtain in their predatory excursions. Their chief of this kind is with the French

commerce

traders

on

the Senegal

river.

rigidMahomedans, and possess, with the allthe intolerance of their sect. They and superstition, bigotry have no mosques at Benowm, but performtheir devotions in a The priest is at sort of open shed,or inclosure made of mats. assemble the same time schoolmaster to the juniors.His pupils every eveningbefore his tent, where,by the lightof a large firemade of brushwood and cow's dung,they are taughta few initiatedinto the principles sentences from the Koran, and are differsbut littlefrom that in of their creed. Their alphabet Richardson's Arabic Grammar. They alwayswrite with the of affect to know something vowel points. Their priests even assured me that he of Benowm literature. The priest foreign a of the Christians. He showed me could read the writings The

number

Moors

are

of barbarous

which characters,

he asserted were

the

another specimen, equally alphabet ; and he produced which he declared to be the Kallam il h\d% or unintelligible, consisted of nine volumes in quarto; most Persian. His library of for the name books of religion, of them, I believe, were Mahomet appearedin red lettersin almost every page of each. His scholars wrote their lessons upon thin boards, paper being The boyswere enough, for general diligent too expensive use. carand appeared to possess a considerableshare of emulation, Roman

park's

126

ryingtheir boards slungover common employments. When few of their prayers, and the Koran, he is reckoned

can

who

a

a

travels

in

their shoulders when

about their

committed to memory read and write certain parts of a

boy has

and with this instructed, sufficiently of life. Proud his career commences slender stock of learning, he surveys with contempt the unlettered of his acquirements, of displaying his superiority Negro,and embraces every opportunity his such of over by countrymen as are not distinguished the same accomplishments. is neglected The education of the girls altogether ; mental but littleattended to by the women, are nor accomplishments defect in the is the want of them considered by the men as a I believe, inferior female character. They are regarded, as an of animals,and seem to be broughtup for no other purspecies pose than that of administering of their to the sensual pleasures considered as masters. is,therefore, Voluptuousness imperious and slavishsubmission as their indistheir chief accomplishment, pensable duty. ideas of feminine perfection. The Moors have singular The of figure and motion,and a countenance enlivened by gracefulness in their standard ; essential points are expression, by no means and beautyappear to be terms nearly with them,corpulence synonymous. A woman, of even moderate pretensions, must be one cannot

her,and

walk

without

slave under

each

arm

to

support

quence perfect beautyis a load for a camel. In conseof this prevalent taste for unwieldiness of bulk,the it early Moorish ladiestake great painsto acquire in life; and for this purpose, many of the young girls are compelled by their of kouskous, mothers to devour a greatquantity and drink a large bowl of camel's milk every morning. It is of no importance has an appetite whether the girl or not, the kouskous and milk and obedience isfrequently enforced by blows. must be swallowed, I have seen a poor girl sit crying, with a bowl at her lips, for than an hour,and her mother,with a stick in her hand, more a

THE

watchingher

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

127

allthe

while,and usingthe stick without mercy, whenever she observed that her daughter not swallowing. was This singular instead of producing and disease, practice, indigestion the young ladywith that degreeof plumpness soon covers itself. which,in the eye of a Moor, is perfection As the Moors purchase all their clothing from the Negroes, the

women

dress. of cotton

be very economical in the articleof In general, they content themselves with a broad piece are

forced

to

which is wrapped round the middle,and hangs cloth, round like a petticoat almost to the ground; to the upper part of this are sewed two square pieces, before and the other one behind,which are fastened togetherover the shoulders. The with some head-dress is commonly a bandage of cotton cloth, which serve to conceal the face partsof it broader than others, when they walk in the sun ; frequently, however,when they go abroad,they veil themselves from head to foot. The employment of the women to their varies, according degreesof opulence. Queen Fatima,and a few others of high rank,like the great ladies in some partsof Europe,pass their their with their visitors, in conversing time chiefly performing in a looking-glass. The or admiringtheir charms devotions, of inferiorclass employthemselves in difierent domestic women and when anything duties. They are very vain and talkative, puts them out of humour, theycommonly vent their anger upon and despotic whom their female slaves, over theyrule with severe that the condition to observe, which leads me authority, At daybreak wretched. is deplorably of these poor captives to fetch water from the wells in largeskins they are compelled called girbas as theyhave broughtwater enough ; and as soon the for the day,as well as the horses (for the family to serve seldom give their horses the trouble of goingto the Moors ing wells), theyare then employedin poundingthe corn and dressthe the victuals. This being alwaysdone in the open air, slaves are exposedto the combined heat of the sun, the sand.

pakk's

128

travels

in

it is their business to sweep the and tliefire. In the intervals, tent, churn the milk,and performother domestic; offices. With

allthis theyare

badlyfed,and

oftentimes

cruelly punished.

of Ludamar the Moors differsbut men's dress among from that of the Negroes(whichhas been already little described), The

exceptthat theyhave all adoptedthat characteristicof the Mamade of homedan sect,the turban ; which is here universally Such

white cotton cloth. them display

with

a

mixture

of the Moors of

prideand

have

longbeards, as denotixig satisfaction, as

Arab ancestry. Of this number was Ali himself ; but among the hair is short and bushy,and of the people, the generality an

here 1 may be permitted to observe, circumstance excited among them favourable

black. universally that if any one towards thoughts

And

person, it was

beard,which was and was now length, alwaysbeheld with grown to an enormous I believe in my conscience theythought or envy. approbation it too good a beard for a Christian. The onlydiseases which I observed to prevail the among for the cure Moors,were the intermittent fever and dysentery, of which nostrums sometimes administered by their old are is left to her own women nature ; but,in general, operations. Mention was made to me of the small-pox as beingsometimes made its very destructive ; but it had not, to my knowledge, while I was in captivity. That it preappearance in Ludamar vails, tribes of the Moors,and that it is however,among some frequently conveyedby them to the Negroes in the southern I was assured on the authority of Dr. Laidley, who also states, informed me that the Negroes on the Gambia practise lation. inocuThe

my

own

my

administration of criminal justice, as far of

as

1 had opportunities

was observing, prompt and decisive. For, although civilrights in Ludamar, itwas necessary, but little were regarded when crimes were committed,that examplesshould sometimes be made. On such occasions, the ofiender was brought before Ali,

THE

who

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

129

of his sole authority, what judgmenthe thought pronounced, But I understood that

seldom was capital punishment or never inflicted, except on the Negroes. in their Althoughthe wealth of the Moors consists chiefly herds of cattle, numerous lifedoes not afibrd yet, as the pastoral fullemployment, the majority of the peopleare perfectly idle, and spend the day in trifling conversation about theirhorses, or in laying schemes of depredation the Negrovillages. on of rendezvous for the indolent is the king's The usual place of speechseems to be exercised by the tent,where greatliberty towards each other, while in speaking of their chief company of theirsovereign theyexpress but one opinion.In praise they unanimous. are Songsare composedin his honour,which the frequently sing in concert; but they are so loaded company with gross adulation that no man but a Moorish despotcould hear them without blushing.The kingis distinguished by the fineness of his dress, which is composedof blue cotton cloth, broughtfrom Timbuctoo,or white linen or muslin from Morocco. He has likewise a larger tent than any other person, with a proper.

white cloth over

it ; but in his usual intercoursewith his subjects,

all distinctionsof rank

are

forgotten.He frequently

and bowl with his camel driver, bed. reposes himself duringthe heat of the day upon the same The expenses of his government and household are defrayed by sometimes eats out of the

same

holder, which is paidby every houseNegro subjects, either in corn, cloth, or golddust; a tax upon the which is comdifierent Moorish korrees, monly or watering-places,

a

tax

upon

his

levied in cattle; and

a

tax upon

all merchandise which

collectedin kind. throughthe kingdom,and is generally arises from the But a considerable part of the king's revenue of individuals. The Negroinhabitantsof Ludamar, and plunder rich ; for Ah, the travelling afraid of appearing are merchants, mation who has spies stationed in the differenttowns to givehim inforinvents the wealth of his subjects, frequently concerning passes

K

park's

130

some

frivolous pleafor

to opulent

and reducing the their property, seizing

level with their fellow-citizens.

a

I had no means of subjects of Ludamar military strength

of All's Moorish

Of the number

forminga

in

travels

correct estimate.

The

cavalry. They are well mounted, and appear to be and attacking by surprise.Every very expertin skirmishing soldier furnishes his own horse,and finds his accoutrements, of a largesabre,a double-barrelled gun, a small red consisting and a powder horn slungover leather bag for holding his balls, consists in

the shoulder. arises from Ali made

has

He

no

pay,

any remuneration

nor

plunder.This bodyis not war

force did not

Bambarra, 1

upon

exceed

was

very

numerous

informed

but what ;

forwhen

that his whole

thousand

cavahy. They constitute, of however, by what I could learn,but a very small proportion his Moorish subjects.The horses are very beautiful, and so highlyesteemed that the Negro princeswill sometimes give two

from twelve to fourteen slaves for Ludamar

one

horse.

has for its northern

boundarythe Great Desert of Sahara. From I could make, this vast the best inquiries of sand,which occupies ocean so largea space in Northern Africa,may be pronounced almost destitute of inhabitants, which appears in certain except where the scanty vegetation spotsaffordspasturagefor who the

wander

from

one

well to another.

supplyof water

and

of the Moors

have

in live,

the flocks of

pasturageis more

a

few miserable Arabs,

In other

where places, abundant,small parties

taken up their residence.

Here

they

independent poverty,secure tyrannical ment governof Barbary. But the greater part of the Desert,being destitute of water, is seldom visited by any human being, totally unless where the tradingcaravans trace out their toilsome and route across it. In some dangerous parts of this extensive waste, the ground is covered with low stunted shrubs,which serve as from the

landmarks for the caravans, and furnish the camels with a scanty forage. In other partsthe disconsolate wanderer,wherever he

THE

INTERIOR

OF

131

AFRICA.

around him but a vast interminable turns, sees nothing expanse of sand and sky a gloomy and barren void, where the eye finds "

to rest upon, and the mind is filledwith particular object of perishing with thirst. painfulapprehensions Surrounded the traveller sees the dead bodies of by this drearysolitude, birds that the violence of the wind has broughtfrom happier he ruminates on the fearful lengthof his regions ; and as remainingpassage, listenswith horror to the voice of the driving the onlysound that interrupts the awful repose of the blast, no

"

Desert."* The

few

wild

animals

which

inhabit these

melancholy

the antelope and are regions enablingthem to reach the

the ostrich, their swiftness of foot distant watering-places. On the

skirts of the Desert,where

water

is more

are plentiful,

found

and wild boars. lions, panthers, elephants, Of domestic animals,the only one that can endure the the desert is the camel. fatigueof crossing By the particular conformation of the stomach,he is enabled to carry a supplyof sufiicientfor ten or twelve days; his broad and yielding water foot is well adaptedfor a sandy country; and by a singular motion of his upper lip,he picksthe smallest leaves from the thornyshrubs of the Desert as he passes along. The camel is, the only beast of burthen employedby the trading therefore, caravans

which traverse the Desert in differentdirections from

Barbary to Nigritia.As this useful and docile creature has been sufficiently described by systematical necessary writers,it is unI shall only for me to enlargeupon his properties. add, that his flesh, though to my own taste dry and unsavoury, is preferred by the Moors to any other ; and that the milk of the female is in universal esteem, and is indeed sweet, pleasant, and nutritive.

Moors, in their complexion, resemble the Mulattoes of the West Indies;but they have I

have

observed

*

that the

of the Proceedings

African

Part I. Association,

park's

132

in somethingunpleasant not.

travels

in

which the Mulattoes have their aspect,

I fancied that I discovered in the features of most

of them

towards crueltyand low cunning;and I could disposition sensible their physiognomywithout feeling never contemplate wildness of their eyes, a stranger uneasiness. From the staring set them down as a nation of lunatics. The would immediately manifested in and malevolence of their character, are treachery times, Oftenthe Negro villages. excursions against their plundering and sometimes,under without the smallest provocation, seize upon of friendship, the fairestprofessions theywill suddenly the inhabitants themselves. and even the Negroes'cattle, on boldness The Negroesvery seldom retahate. The enterprising the of the Moors,their knowledgeof the country,and,above all, fleetness of their horses,make them such formidable superior enemies,that the petty Negro states which border upon the a

Desert

are

in continual terror while the Moorish tribes are

in

and are too much awed to think of resistance. vicinity, from Like the rovingArabs, the Moors frequently remove of the year, or the one to the season placeto another, according convenience of pasturage. In the month of February,when the heat of the sun scorches up every sort of vegetation in the Desert,theystriketheir tents,and approachthe Negro country in to the south ; where they reside until the rains commence the month of July. At this time,havingpurchasedcorn and other necessaries from the Negroes, in exchange for salt, they the in and the until continue Desert northward, againdepartto the

the rains

are

over, and

that part of the countrybecomes

burnt

up and barren.

while it inures wanderingand restless way of life, them to hardships, at the same time,the bonds of strengthens, their littlesociety, and creates in them an aversion towards which is almost insurmountable. Cut off from all strangers,' intercourse with civilizednations,and boasting an advantage the Negroes, over thoughin a very limited degree, by possessing, This

THE

the

knowledge

proudest, of

all

and

the

nations

blind

and

treachery is

regard

to

consider

be

to

the

of

it

kill

a

nearly

I

trust,

reader

The detailed

and and

copious

be

place

the

but

intolerant

their

character,

cruelty

savage

beheld

never

they

murder

to

my

of

white

a

been

taught

abhorrence,

Major

and would

it

as

and

Houghton,

confinement

future

to

all

had

European

a

fate

during

warning

a

had

inconceivable

melancholy

Some ;

but

they

being will

have

probably of

account

them,

among

travellers

to

me

the

avoid

particulars, equally appear

in

and

this

of

a

more

tions, superstipeople

my

;

but

situation

opportunities

of

collecting

might

be

added

however,

applicable a

singular

wretchedness

few

but

me

customs,

manners,

the

that

from

expected

secluded

this

of

forgotten, afforded

them

southward,

as

may

information. this

lawful

as

prejudices

not

among

with

and

and

district.

inhospitable

it must

serve

in

;

with

name

experienced

I

combining

them

Benowm

at

The

dog.

vainest

ferocious,

Negro,

of

many

Christian

treatment

will,

that

arrival

my

the

the

once

Arab.

the

probable

the

to

"

of

at

bigoted,

earth

133

AFRICA.

are

most

the

on

superstition

before

man

the

OF

they

letters,

perhaps

the

It

of

INTERIOR

to

subsequent

the page.

Negroes

of

in

the

park's

134

travels

XIIL

CHAPTER All

in

him thither. forJarra^and the Author allowed to follow departs The Author s faithful servant,Demha, seized hy Alts order, to his camp, and and sent hack into slavery,Ali returns to remain at Jarra,who, thenceforward the Author ^yermits meditates his escape. Daisy, king of Kaarta, approaching with his army towards Jarra,the inhabitants quitthe town, them in theirflightA party of and the Author accompanies Moors overtake him at Queira He getsaway from them at dayhreak Is againpursuedhy another party,and rohhed ; his escape. hut finally effects "

"

"

"

"

"

JlLaVING,as

related,obtained permissionto Ali to Jarra,I took leave of Queen Fatima,who, accompany returned me part of my apparel with much grace and civility, ; with the saddle and the eveningbefore my departure, my horse, and bridle, sent me were by All's order.

Earlyon

hath

been

from morningof the 26th of May, I departed Bubaker, accompanied by my two attendants,

the

of the camp Johnson and Demba,

and

a

number

horseback ; from the privately

of Moors

on

horsemen,havinggone fifty at Farani, stopped about noon camp duringthe night. We and there joinedby twelve Moors riding and were upon camels, in the woods, with them we proceededto a watering-place horsemen. overtook Ali and his fifty where we They were low shepherds' the wells. As the tents near lodgedin some the tents could scarcely accommodate was numerous, company ordered to sleepin the open space, in the all; and 1 was us

Ali,with

about

THE

INTERIOR

OF

135

AFRICA.

of the tents,where every one might observe my motions. from the north-east ; Duringthe nightthere was much lightning centre

and about

a day-break

heavysand-wind commenced, which

very

continued with great violence until four in the afternoon. The of sand which passed to the westward,in the course of quantity this day,must

have been

to look up ; and the impossible the particles in their ears lodging

creatures,and

like mad

At times it was

prodigiously great.

I

was

cattle were

so

tormented

by

and eyes, that theyran about in continual dangerof being

trampledto death by them. May 28th. Earlyin the morningthe "

Moors saddled their

horses,and Ali's chief slave ordered me to get in readiness. In returned,and takingmy boy a Uttle time the same messenger by the shoulders,told him, in the Mandingo language,that to me, Ali was to be his master in future ;" and then turning "

"

The

business is settled at last (said he); the

boy,and

thing every-

but yoiu- horse,goes back to Bubaker ; but you may take with you to the old fool (meaningJohnson,the interpreter)

being shocked beyond the poor boy,I hastened to at the idea of losing description Ali,who was at breakfast before his tent, surrounded by many

Jarra."

I made

him

no

answer

;

but

in rather too passionate (perhaps of in that whatever imprudenceI had been guilty a strain), cominginto his country,I thoughtI had alreadybeen suflScientlypunishedfor it by beingso long detained,and then plunderedof all my Uttle property,which, however, gave me done when comparedwith what he had justnow no uneasiness, seized upon I observed that the boy which he had now to me.

of his courtiers. I told him

slave,and had been accused of no ofiFence; he was and his faithfulservices in that indeed one of my attendants, ment and attachhim his freedom ; bis fidelity station had procured was

not

a

had made

him follow

me

into my

presentsituation; and

him I could not see for protection, he looked up to me without remonstratmg agamst such an of his liberty deprived as

park's

136

in

travels

Ali made and injustice. act,as the heightof cruelty

reply, told his interpreter, air and malignant smile, a haughty he would send did not mount my horse immediately, in the frown of a tyrant likewise. There is something

but with that ifI back

me

which

rouses

the most

wish to rid the world of such Demba

Poor

formed

not

was

for once a

monster.

less affected than

strongattachment towards

a

of the heart ; I could entertained an indignant

emotions

secret

and feelings,

not suppress my

no

myself;he

and had

me,

a

had

cheerfulness

the tedious hours of captivity which often beguiled of disposition ; he

likewise a

was

in the proficient

tongue,and promised

Bambarra

in future. to me utility But it was in vain to expect anythingfavourable to humanity from peoplewho are strangersto its dictates. So having shaken hands with this unfortunate boy,and blended my tears with his,assuring him,however,that I would do my utmost to redeem him, I saw him led off by three of All's slaves tow^ards that account

on

be

to

the camp at Bubaker. the Moors had When to follow them

in

;

for the arrivalof Jarra.

arrived in the afternoon at

company

;

where

we

horsemen

some

the 1st of June Our

ordered

was

and aftera toilsome journey throughthe woods,

very

On

their horses, I

mounted

sultry day,we called Doombani village, a

of great

amounted

horseback ; for the Moors

two

ing days,wait-

from the northward.

departedfrom

we now

remained

walled

a

Doombani

to two

hundred

towards men,

in their infantry They appearedcapableof enduringgreat fatigue ; but their total want of discipline, our journeyto Jarra was on

like a fox-chace than the march

never

of

use

an

all

w^ars.

from more

army.

At Jarra I took up my lodgingat the house of my old Daman Jumma, and informed him of everything acquaintance. that had befallen me.

I

him to use particularly requested interestwith Ali to redeem my boy, and promisedhim a for the value of two slaves, the moment upon Dr. Laidley,

his bill he

THE

INTERIOR

OF

137

AFRICA.

undertook to broughthim to Jarra. Daman very readily the business ; but found that Ali considered the boy negociate and was unwilling as my to part with him, principal interpreter, lest he should falla second time into my hands,and be instrumental in conducting to Bambarra. Ali therefore put ofiF me the matter from day to day ; but withal told Daman that ifhe wished to purchasethe boy for himself, he should have him thereafter at the common of a slave ; which Daman price agreed for him whenever

to pay

The

Ali should send him to Jarra.

chief objectof Ali in this

journeyto Jarra,as

I have

from such of the Kaartans to procure money was related, already in his country. Some of these had solicited as had taken refuge his protection, to avoid the horrors of war ; but by far the

greatestnumber

make

were

who

wished the

a

own

sudden

attack themselves

which recruit his forces,

were

and bloodycampaign, this view theysolicitedthe

by

dissatisfied men,

heard sovereign.These peopleno sooner duing the Bambarran army had returned to Sego without subthan they resolved to expected, Daisy,as was generally

ruin of their

that

of them

a

now

upon

known

in great want

him, before he could to be much

of

diminished

With provisions.

jointhem, and ofiered to with the warmest hire of Ali two hundred horsemen,which Ali, of friendship, agreedto furnish, upon condition that professions supplyhim with four hundred head of theyshould previously and a considerable hundred garments of blue cloth, two cattle, this impost The raising quantityof beads and ornaments. them ; and in order to procure the cattle, somewhat perplexed they persuadedthe king to demand one-half the stipulated them to replace from the peopleof Jarra,promising number Ali agreedto this proposal in a short time. ; and the same evening (June2d) the drum was sent throughthe town, and Moors

to

that if any person sufieredhis cattle to go into the woods,the next morning,before the king had chosen and his slaves his quota of them, his house should be plundered, the crier announced

park's

138

was

the proclamation peopledared not disobey about two hundred of their best cattle ; and next morning and delivered to the Moors ; the full complement selected, and arbitrary. made up afterwards by means equally unjust

June inform

to was

me

8th. "

the

In

that he

was

afternoon,Ah about to return

sent

his chief slave to

to Bubaker

;

but

as

he

festival days,to keep the approaching then return to Jarra,I had permission This was until his return. remain with Daman news joyful that I so many me disappointments, ; but I had experienced son to indulgethe hope of its beingtrue, until Johnunwilling

would

to

in

The

taken from him.

were

travels

onlystaythere a and {Banna Salee),

few

that AH, with part of the horsemen,were to follow actually gone from the town, and that the rest were him in the morning. came

and told

me

Earlyin the morningthe remainder of the Moors mitted They had, duringtheir stay,comdepartedfrom the town. with the most acts of robbery ; and this morning, many who were they seized upon three girls audacity, unparalleled bringingwater from the wells,and carried them away into slavery. of Banna Salee, The anniversary at Jarra, very well deserved clad on this slaves were all finely to be called a festival. The and the householders vied with each other in providing occasion, of victuals, which theydistributed to all their largequantities neighbourswith the greatestprofusion Hterally ; hunger was banished from the town ; man, woman, and child, bond and free,all had as much as theycould eat. June 12. Two people, dreadfully wounded,were discovered in the woods; one of them had justbreathed at a watering-place but the other was his last, vering broughtalive to Jarra. On recohe informed the people, that he had fled through a little, the woods from Kasson ; that Daisyhad made war upon Sambo, the king of that country; had surprised three of his towns, and put all the inhabitants to the sword. He enumerated by name June 9th. "

"

THE

INTERIOR

OF

139

AFRICA.

of the friendsof the Jarra people, who had been murdered many in Kasson. This intelligence made the death howl universal in Jarra for the space of two This pieceof bad news

days. was

followed

not by another,

less

A number of runaway slaves arrived from Kaarta distressing. the 14th,and reported that Daisy,havingreceived information on the intended attack upon him, was about to concerning This made

visitJarra. hundred

the negroes call upon AH for the two which he was to furnish them, according to

horsemen

Ali

But

strances, paidvery littleattention to their remonand at last plainly told them that his cavalry were thus deserted by the Moors, otherwise employed. The Negroes, that the kingof Kaarta would shew them as and fully apprised the inhabitants of Kasson, littleclemency as he had shown

engagement.

and hazard resolved to collect all their forces, the

king,who

should become

was

too

in great distressfor want

now

for them. powerful

eighthundred

about

before battle, of

provisions,

They thereforeassembled

the whole; and with these the eveningof the 18th of June.

effectivemen

theyentered Kaarta,on June 19. This morningthe "

and about two

a

on

wind shiftedto the south-west had

o'clock in the afternoon we

a

;

heavy tornado,

revived which greatly with rain, accompanied thunder-squall, coolness to the air. the face of nature, and gave a pleasant or

This

was

As

the firstrain that had fallenfor many months. boy had hitherto been every attempt to redeem my

and unsuccessful, whilst I remained

continue to prove so, in the country,I found that it was necessary

would in all probability

concerningmy own set in ; for my landlord, safetybefore the rains should be fully began to wish seeingno likelihood of beingpaidfor his trouble, refusingto proceed, interpreter, me away ; and Johnson, my for

my was,

me

to

come

to

situation became

some

very

determination

perplexing.If

I foresaw that I must

soon

yet,if I

went

the Moors ; and

I continued where

fall a victim to the

forward

I

of barbarity

it was singly,

evident

park's

140

travels

in

both from the want of sustain great difficulties, and of an interpreter the necessaries of life, to purchase means to make myselfunderstood. On the other hand,to return to

that I must

the objectof Englandwithout accomplishing worse

of the first opportunity

Bambarra, as

soon

as

and escaping,

the rains had set

mission,was

myselfof for to proceeddirectly in for a few days,so as

I therefore determined

than either.

my

to

avail

of finding water in the woods. certainty Such was my situation when, on the evening of the 24th muskets close to of June, I was startled by the reportof some the reason, was informed that the Jarra the town, and inquiring was Daisy,and that this firing army had returned from fighting of the town However,when the chief men by way of rejoicing. and heard a full detail of the expedition, had assembled, they relieved from their uneasiness on Daisy's were by no means The deceitful Moors having drawn back from the account. after beinghired by the Negroes, dispirited confederacy, greatly the insurgents Daisywith a few friends ; who instead of finding concealed in the strong fortressof Gedingooma,had found him at a town near Joka,in the open country,surrounded by so the

to afibrd me

that every attempt to attack him was at once givenup ; and the confederates onlythoughtof enriching themselves, by the plunderof the small towns in the neighbourhood. numerous

an

army,

fell upon They accordingly

one

carried ofi"the whole of the inhabitants ; this mightreach

Daisy'stowns, and of but,lest intelligence of

Daisy,and induce him to cut off their retreat, theyreturned throughthe woods by night, bringingwith them the slaves and cattlewhich theyhad captured. June 26th. This afternoon, a spy from Kaarta broughtthe that Daisy had taken Simbing in the alarminginteUigence morning,and would be in Jarra some time in the course of the stationed ensuingday. A number of peoplewere immediately and in the difierentpassages leading the tops of the rocks, on into the town, to giveearly of Daisy's intelligence motions,and "

THE

the

INTERIOR

OF

141

AFRICA.

for making the necessary preparations the town as soon as possible. quitting They continued beating corn, and packingup different articles duringthe night ; and took earlyin the morningnearlyone-half of the townspeople the road for Bambarra, by the way of Deena. and children Their departure was ; the women very affecting crying; the men sullen and dejected ; and allof them looking set

women

about

back with regret on their native town, and rocks,beyond w^hich their ambition had never and where theyhad stray, all of which shelter among June alarmed

they were

on

the wells and

temptedthem to of future happiness laid alltheir plans ; forced to abandon,and to seek now

strangers.

27th.

"

About

eleven o'clock in the

who by the sentinels,

we forenoon,

broughtinformation

that

were

Daisy

towards Jarra,and that the confederate army The terror of the had fled before him without firing a gun. townspeopleon this occasion is not easilyto be described. was

on

his march

and the great children, made me suspect prevailed, hurryand confusion that everywhere

Indeed,the

screams

of the

women

and

entered the town ; and although already behaviour to me with Daisy's to be pleased I had every reason to the when I was at Kemmoo, I had no wish to expose myself mistake in the general confusion, mercy of his army, who might, I therefore mounted for a Moor. me my horse,and takinga people, largebag of corn before me, rode slowlyalongwith the townswhere I reached the foot of a rocky hill, until we I had When and drove my horse up before me. dismounted, reached the summit I sat down, and havinga fullview of the country,could not helplamenting town, and the neighbouring after who were thronging the situation of the poor inhabitants, a scanty their sheep,cows, goats, etc.,and carrying me, driving and a few clothes. There was a great portionof provisions, aged noise and cryingeverywhereupon the road ; for many peopleand children were unable to walk,and these,with the

that the Kaartans

had

park's

142

were sick,

to obliged

in

travels

be carried ; otherwise

theymust

have been

leftto certain destruction. About

five o'clock we

arrived at

a

small

farm,belongingto

and called Kadeeja;and here I found Daman people, Johnson employedin filling largebags of corn to be carried for Daman's family the to serve as provisions on upon bullocks,

the Jarra

road. from Kadeeja,and daybreakwe departed arrived in the having passedTroongoomba without stopping, afternoon at Queira. I remained here two daysin order to which the Moors had reduced to a perfect recruit my horse, of some Rosin ante,and to wait for the arri^^al MandingoNegroes, in for Bambarra the of a few days. who were course going On the afternoon of the 1st of July,as I was tendingmy June 28th.

"

At

All's chief slave and four Moors arrived at horse in the fields. Queira,and took up their lodgingat the Dooty'shouse. My the nature of this visit, Johnson, who suspected interpreter, from which he sent two boys to overhear their conversation, learnt that they were back to Bubaker. sent to convey me The same to look at evening two of the Moors came privately takingit to the Dooty's my horse,and one of them proposed was cessary, unnehut,but the other observed that such a precaution as I could never They escape upon such an animal. then inquired where I slept, and returned to their companions. All this

was

like

stroke of thunder to me, for I dreaded confinement againamong the Moors,from a

nothingso much as I had nothingbut death to expect. I therewhose barbarity fore determined to set off immediately for Bamban^a,a measure which I thoughtoffered almost the only chance of savingmy and gainingthe objectof my mission. I communicated life, the design to Johnson,who, althoughhe applauded tion, my resoluso far from showingany inclinationto accompany was me, that he solemnlyprotested he would rather forfeithis wages than go any farther. He told me that Daman had agreedto

THE

INTERIOR

OF

143

AFRICA.

to assist in givehim half the priceof a slave for his service, a coffleof slaves to Gambia, and that he was mined deterconducting to embrace the opportunity of returning to his wife and family. him to 'accompany Having no hopestherefore of persuading me, I resolved to proceed by myself. About midnightI got which consisted of two shirts, two pair my clothes in readiness, of trousers,two and under an pocket-handkerchiefs, upper with a cloak, a hat,and a pair of half boots ; these, waistcoat, constituted my whole wardrobe. I had not one And single to purbead,nor any other articleof value in my possession, chase victuals for myself, for my horse. or corn About daybreak, Johnson,who had been hsteningto the Moors all night, and whisperedto me that they were came arrived when I was asleep.The awful crisiswas now again of freedom,or languish either to taste the blessing out my days in captivity. A cold sweat moistened my forehead as I thought on

the dreadful

other,my fate

and reflected that,one alternative, must

be decided in the

course

way

of the

or

the

ensuing

onlychance of escaping. So taking up my bundle,I steppedgentlyover the and havingmounted in the open air, who were sleeping Negroes, him to take partiI bade Johnson farewell, cular desiring my horse,

day.

But

to

deliberate

was

to

lose the

of the papers I had entrusted him with,and inform friends in Gambia that he had left me in good health on care

my my

way to Bambarra. I proceeded with

surveyingeach bush,and great caution, for the Moorish and lookingbehind me listening frequently horsemen,until I was about a mile from the town, when I was of a korree to find myselfin the neighbourhood surprised followed me for about The shepherds to the Moors. belonging and throwingstones after me ; and when I was a mile,hooting the pleasing out of their reach,and had began to indulge hopes I was of escaping, again greatlyalarmed to hear somebody

park's

144

lookingback,I saw three whoopingand coming afterme at full speed,

halloo behind horseback

in

travels

me,

and

their double-barrelledguns.

I knew

it

was

Moors

on

ing brandish-

in vain

to

and therefore turned back and met them, escaping, each side, one when two of them caughthold of my bridle, on his musket,told me I must and the third, presenting go back think of

to Ah.

When

the human

mind

has for

time been

fluctuating tortured with anxiety, and hurried between hope and despair, it afibrds a sort of gloomy relief from one extreme to another, the worst that can possibly to know happen; such was my situation. An indifference about hfe,and all its enjoyments, had completely benumbed and I rode back with my faculties, the Moors w^ith apparentunconcern. But a change took place than I had any reason much to expect. In passing sooner thick bushes,one of the Moors ordered me to throughsome untie my bundle,and show them the contents. mined Having exathe different articles, they found nothingworth taking which theyconsidered as a very valuable acquiexceptmy cloak, sition of and them i t from it about one pulling ; me, wrapped himself. cover

me

This cloak had been of great use to me ; it served to from the rains in the day,and to protectme from the

in mosquitoes

the

night;

I therefore

it,and followed him

return

some

some

begged him to earnestly littleway to obtain it,but

without

payingany attention to my request,he and one of his rode offwith their prize. I attempted When to follow companions who had remained with me, struck my horse them, the third, the head,and presenting his musket,told me I should proover ceed no

further.

that these men had not been sent by any perceived to apprehendme, but had pursued me in the authority solely view to rob and plunder fore, me. Turningmy horse's head,theretowards the east,and observing the Moor follow once more the track of his confederates, 1 congratulated myselfon having I

now

THE

with

escaped of

145

AFRICA.

distress,

great

from

such

a

horde

barbarians. I

into with

rocks, from

in

life, though

my

OF

INTERIOR

was

woods,

the all

which

I

Queira

northward,

to

possible

to

I

of

out

sooner

no

being

prevent

speed,

Deena

fortunately

I

until

remembered

to

;

and fell

of

sight

the

pursued, found

have

directing in

with

and

myself seen

my

the

than

Moor,

in

course

path.

kept near

I

struck

pushing

high

some

former

my a

little

on

route to

the

pabk's

146

travels

in

XIV.

CHAPTEE

and proceeds through feels greatjoy at Ms deliverance, his hut situation the wilderness, finds Suffers very deplorable and faintson the sand Recovers,and from thirst, greatly Is providentiall makes another effort to push forward Arrives at a Foulah village, relieved hy a fallof rain hut obtains foodfrom where he is refused relief hy the Booty, Continues his journeythroughthe wilderness, a poor woman where and the next day lights another Foulah village, on received hy one of the shepherds Arrives on he is hospitably the third day at a Negro town called Wawra, tributary to the kingofBamharra.

The Author

"

"

"

"

"

"

"T

is

to impossible

describe the

joy that

arose

I looked around and concluded that I

when

I felt like

one

recovered from

unusual

sickness :

was

in my out of

I breathed

mind

danger. freer; I

in my limbs ; even the desert looked lightness and I dreaded nothingso much as falling in with some pleasant, of Moors,who might convey me back to the wanderingparties land of thieves and murderers from which I had justescaped. became I soon sensible, however,that my situation was for I had no means of procuring nor food, very deplorable, pect prosAbout ten o'clock, of finding water. a herd of perceiving close to the road,I took a circuitousroute to avoid goatsfeeding being seen, and continued travelling throughthe wilderness, in order directing east-south-east, my course, by compass, nearly town to reach as soon of the kingas possible some or dom village

found

of Bambarra.

THE

A

littleafter noon,

INTERIOR

when

OF

the

147

AFRICA.

burningheat

of the

sun

was

reflectedwith double violence from the hot sand,and the distant seen ridgesof the hills, throughthe ascendingvapour, seemed

and fluctuate like the unsettled sea, I became faint with thirst, and climbed a tree in hopesof seeing distant to

smoke, or

wave

other appearance of a human habitation, but in vain ; nothingappeared all around but thick underwood,and hillocks of white sand. About

some

I four o'clock,

suddenlyupon a largeherd of goats,and pulling my horse into a bush,I watched to observe ifthe keepers Moors or Negroes. In a littletime I perwere ceived two Moorish boys,and with some difficulty persuaded them to approachme. longed They informed me that the herd beto Ali,and that theywere goingto Deena, where the and where theyintended to stayuntil water was more plentiful, the rain had filledthe poolsin the desert. They shewed me their empty water-skins, and told me that theyhad seen no water

in the woods.

came

This account

afl'ordedme

but littleconsolation

and I pushedon as repine, in the fast as possible, in hopesof reaching some watering-place ferable of the night. My thirstwas by this time become insufcourse ness mouth was parchedand inflamed ; a sudden dim; my would frequently come over my eyes, with other symptoms I began of fainting horse beingvery much fatigued, ; and my of thirst. To relieve that I should perish to apprehend seriously I chewed the leaves the burningpain in my mouth and throat, and of no service. of differentshrubs, but found them all bitter, A littlebefore sunset,having reached the top of a gentle I climbed a high tree,from the topmost branches of rising, but which I cast a melancholy look over the barren wilderness, without discovering the most distant trace of a human dwelling. dismal uniformity The same of shrubs and sand everywhere and the horizon was as level and uninterrupted itself, presented ;

as

however,it was

that of the

sea.

in vain to

park's

148

travels

in

the tree,I found my horse stubble and brushwood with greatavidity ; and

Descendingfrom

and my attemptwalking,

horse too

the devouring as

I

was

now

much

fatigued it but an to carry me, I thought humanity,and perhaps to take the last I should ever have it in my power to perform, offhis bridle and lethim shiftforhimself ; in doingwhich I was affectedwith sickness and giddiness, and falling suddenly upon fast approaching. the sand,feltas if the hour of death was Here then (thought I),after a short but ineffectual struggle, terminate all my hopesof beinguseful in my day and generation too faint to

act of

"

the short span of my lifecome I to an end." the surrounding cast (asI believed), a last look on scene, and ;

here must

change that was about to take this world, with itsenjoyments, seemed to vanish from my place, recollection. Nature,however,at length resumed its functions ; and on recovering my senses, I found myselfstretched upon the sand,with the bridle stillin my hand,and the sun justsinking behind the trees. I now summoned all my and resolution, determined to make another effort to prolongmy existence. And as the eveningwas somewhat cool, I resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, in hopesof reaching (my only With this view,I put the bridle a watering-place. resource) and driving him before me, went slowly on alongfor my horse, about an hour,when I perceived east, some hghtningfrom the northfor it promisedrain. The darkness a most delightful sight, and Hghtningincreased very rapidly, and in less than an hour I heard the wind roaring among the bushes. I had already opened my mouth to receive the refreshing drops which I covered with a cloud of sand, expected instantly ; but 1 was driven with such force by the wind,as to givea very disagreeable sensation to my face and arms, and I was obhgedto mount and stop under a bush to prevent being suffocated. my horse, The sand continued to flyin amazing quantities for near an and travelled with difiShour,after which I againset forward, whilst I reflected

on

the awful

THE

INTERIOR

OF

149

AFRICA.

cultyuntil ten o'clock. About this time I was agreeably prised surfollowed by a few by some very vivid flashesof lightning, heavydropsof rain. In a Httle time the sand ceased to fly, and I alighted and spreadout all my clean clothes to collectthe which at lengthI saw would certainly fall. For more than rain, hour it rained plentifully, and I quenchedmy an thirst by wringingand suckingmy clothes. There being no moon, it was dark,so that 1 remarkably to lead my horse, and directmy way by the compass, was obliged which the lightning enabled me to observe. In this manner I with tolerable expedition, until pastmidnight travelled, ; when I was the hghtningbecomingmore under the necessity distant, of gropingalong, to the no small dangerof my hands and eyes. About two o'clock my horse started at something, and looking at a short distance to see a light round,I was not a littlesurprised it to be a town, I gropedalong the trees,and supposing among the sand in hopesof finding cotton,or other appearcorn-stalks, ances I perAs I approached, of cultivation, but found none. ceived and in of difierent number other a places, began lights to suspectthat I had fallenupon a party of Moors. However, I was resolved to see who theywere, ifI in my presentsituation, led my horse cautiously could do it with safety.I accordingly and the and heard by the lowingof the cattle, towards the light, clamorous tongues of the herdsmen,that it was a watering-place, as the sound and most likely belongedto the Moors. Delightful of the human

voice

was

to me,

I resolved once

more

to

strike

of hunger perishing than trust myselfagainin their hands ; but beingstillthirsty, it pruof the burningday,I thought and dreading the approach dent find at no great to which I expected to search for the wells, I inadvertently In this pursuit, distance. approachedso near diately of the tents as to be perceived to one by a woman, who immeance screamed out. Two peoplecame runningto her assistof the neighbouring from some tents,and passedso very into the

woods,and rather

run

the risk of

park's

150

near

to

that I

me

travels

thoughtI was

in

and hastened again discovered,

into the woods. About

a

I heard mile from this place,

a

loud and

confused

rightof my course, and in a short time which was was hapi^yto find it was the croakingof frogs, I followed the sound,and at daybreak heavenlymusic to my ears. shallow muddy pools, that it arrived at some so fullof frogs, The noise theymade frightened to discern the water. difficult was to keep them quiet obliged by beatingthe my horse,and I was with a branch until he had drank. Having here quenched water I ascended a tree,and the morningbeingcalm,I soon my thirst, which I had passed the smoke of the watering-place perceived in the night; and observed another pillar of smoke east-southeast, noise somewhere

to the

distant twelve my

or

fourteen miles.

Towards

this I directed

before eleven route, and reached the cultivatedgrounda little

o'clock, where, seeinga number

of

Negroesat

work

planting

of the town, and was informed that it the name inquired was a Foulah village, belongingto Ali,called Shrilla. I had doubts about entering it; but my horse being very some now much fatigued, and the day growinghot,not to mention the pangs of hungerwhich began to assailme, I resolved to venture, and accordingly rode up to the Dooty'shouse,where I was denied admittance, and could not obtain even a unfortunately handful of corn either for myselfor horse. Turningfrom this door,I rode slowlyout of the town, and perceiving inhospitable low scattered huts without the walls, I directed my route some towards them ; knowing that in Africa, in Europe, as well as does not alwaysprefer the highest At the hospitality dwellings. door of one of these huts,an old motherly-looking woman sat, made cotton ; I signsto her that I was hungry,and spinning if she had any victuals with her in the hut. She immediately inquired and desired me, in Arabic,to come laid down her distaff, in. When I had seated myselfupon the floor, she set before that had been leftthe preceding me a dish of kouskous, night, corn, I

THE

of which I made

a

OF

151

AFRICA.

tolerable meal ; and in return of my pocket handkerchiefs;

I gave her one time,a littlecorn

same

INTERIOR

for my

horse,which she

for this kindness,

beggingat the readily brought

me.

Overcome

with

I lifted joy at so unexpecteda deliverance, up my eyes to heaven,and whilst my heart swelled with gratitude, I returned thanks to that gracious and bountiful Being, whose power had supported under so many dangers, and had me now spreadfor me a table in the wilderness. Whilst my horse was feeding, the peoplebeganto assemble, and one of them whispered somethingto my hostess which very much excited her surprise. Though I was not well acquainted I soon with the Foulah language, discovered that some of the and carry me wished to apprehend back to Ali,in hopes, men I I therefore tied up the corn ; a reward. suppose, of receiving and lest any one should suspectI had ran away from the Moors, I took a northerly and went cheerfully direction, along,driving of the my horse before me, followed by all the boys and girls When I had travelled about two miles,and got quitof town. I struck againinto the woods, all my troublesome attendants, and took shelter under a large tree,where I found it necessary for a bed,and my to rest myself me ; a bundle of twigsserving saddle for a pillow. I was awakened about two o'clock by three Foulahs, who, takingme for a Moor, pointedto the sun, and told me it was time to pray. Without enteringinto conversation with them, I saddled my horse and continued my journey. I travelled over

a

but level,

more

fertilecountrythan I had

seen

for

some

time,until sunset,when, coming to a paththat took a southerly I followed it until midnight, at which time I arrived direction, mined at a small poolof rain water, and the wood beingopen, I deterto rest by it for the night. Having givenmy horse the of the corn, 1 made and fliesfrom the musquitoes

remainder

formerly ; but the sleepfor some pool prevented my

bed

as

paek's

152

time,and I which

came

was

tkavels

in

nightby wild beasts, bowlingskept the horse in

twice disturbed in the

very near, and whose

continual terror.

throughthe July4th. At daybreakI pursuedmy course wild hogs, and osnumbers of antelopes, triches woods as formerly ; saw and not so fertileas I had more hilly, ; but the soilwas found it the preceding day. About eleven o'clock I ascended an at about eight eminence,where I climbed a tree,and discovered, miles distance, an open part of the country,with several red cultivated land ; and directing spots,which I concluded were that way, came of a watering-place to the precincts my course I judged about one o'clock. From the appearance of the place, it to belongto the Foulahs, that I should meet and was hopeful than I had experienced at Shrilla. In this a better reception I was of the shepherdsinvited me not deceived ; for one to into his tent,and partakeof some dates. This was come one of those low Foulah tents in which there is room justsuflBcient the furniture, to sit upright, and in which the family, etc.,seem huddled together like so many articlesin a chest. When I had I creptupon my hands and knees into this humble habitation, found that itcontained a woman and three children, who, together with the shepherdand myself, occupiedthe floor. completely A dish of boiled com and dates was and the master produced, of the family, is customary in this part of the country,first as tasted himself, and then desired me to follow his example. Whilst I was the children kept their eyes fixed upon eating, did the shepherd me ; and no sooner pronounce the word Nazathan theybegan to cry, and their mother crept slowly ran% towards the door,out of which she sprang like a greyhound, and was instantly followed by her children, were so frightened of a Christian, that no entreatiescould theyat the very name induce them to approachthe tent. Here I purchasedsome for my horse in exchangefor some corn brass buttons ; and struck again havingthanked the shepherdfor his hospitality, "

INTBKIOR

THE

the

into

woods.

direction but

for

about

I

full

of

sitting hands,

to

natives

the

and

the

induced to

of

tree

in

night.

I

was

induced

passed o'clock

a

small

(July 5th), belongs

song,

disturbed to

king

of

to

set

a

Kaarta,

Bambarra.

called

but

a

made

little

at

this

time

day came

Wawra,

my

frogs in

from

a

with for

bed

towards

I

tened has-

route,

place, my

before

called

of

this

open

Wassalita, town

was

my

wolves

forward

Negro

from

I

I

pursued

Uttle

which some

I

cry

an

round

and

;

joyful

for

the

ever, fears, how-

accompHshed

sought

by

village to

a

of

looking

where

;

both

afraid

the

when

under

after away

wood,

Having I

water,

midst,

me

the

deviate

thirst.

rain

the

of

with

My

went

some

unpleasant

equally

people,

;

the

generally

nose

within.

nothing,

to

my

the

for

;

midnight,

more

quench

single

which

until

and

beasts

parts

open

once

pool

wild

perceiving

more

me

the

horse

the

night

from

are

rather

the

among

thickets

by

the

coming

situation

my

took

for

myself

these

neighing,

dissipated

soon

E.S.E.

journey

large

and

without,

to

from

hide

that

it

people

to

my

holding

follow

to

As

road

a

some

prudent

found

him

to

resolved

road.

I

dark,

prevent

thicket,

order

the

beasts,

were

the

it

153

AFRICA.

came

o'clock, hearing

near

wild in

and

thought

bushes

I

sunset,

Bambarra,

eight

southward, thick

At

OF

a

the

morning, and

ing hav-

about

ten

;

which

tributary

to

perly pro-

Man-

park's

154

tbavels

in

.

CHAPTER The

XV. Is

fugitive Kaartans,who accompany him in his route throughBamDiscovers the Niger Some account barra of Sego,the to see the Mansong,the king,refuses of Bambarra capital Author,but sends him a present Great hospitality ofa Negro Author

Wassiboo

to proceeds

"

joinedby

some

"

"

"

"

woman.

W

AWRA

is a small town

surrounded

with

and highwalls,

by a mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The in cultivating inhabitants employthemselves chiefly corn, which theyexchangewith the Moors for salt. Here, beingin security I resolved to rest from the Moors, and very much fatigued, myself;and meetingwith a heartywelcome from the Dooty, whose name I laid myselfdown upon a bullock's was Flancharee, of hide,and slept soundlyfor about two hours. The curiosity the peoplewould not allow me to sleep any longer. They had and were assembled in greatnumber seen my saddle and bridle, of opinion to learn who I was, and whence I came. Some were

inhabited

that I

was

an

Arab

;

others insisted that I

Sultan ; and theycontinued to warmth, that the noise awoke

formerlybeen

at

and

assured them

was

convinced

Gambia) at that I

from

my

was

debate me.

last

was

the matter

Moorish such

with

Dooty (who had in my behalf, interposed The

a white certainly

appearance

some

that I

was

man a

; but

very

he

poor

one.

In was

the

course

of the

going to Sego,came

day,several women, hearingthat I of Manand beggedme to inquire

THE

song, the in woman

INTERIOR

king,wbat was told particular,

dee ; that he was and had evening,

no

OF

become me

155

AFRICA.

of their children.

that her son's

name

was

One

Mama-

heathen,but prayedto God morningand

been

from her about three years ago, by Mansong'sarmy : since which she had never heard of him. She said she often dreamed about him ; and begged me, if I should

him, either in Bambarra,or

see

tell him

taken

that his mother

afternoon the

and

Dooty examined

sisterwere the contents

in which I had was

worth

in my

packedup my clothes ; he returned it,and taking,

own

country,to

stillalive.

In the

of the leather bag,

but

finding nothingthat told me to depart in the

morning. and at dayJuly 6th. It rained very much in the night, light I departed, in company with a Negro,who was going to called Dingyee for corn ; but we had not proceeded a town above a mile,before the ass upon which he rode kicked him and he returned leavingme to prosecute the journey off, by myself. I reached Dingyeeabout noon ; but the Dooty and most of "

the inhabitants had gone into the fieldsto cultivate com. An old Foulah,observing me wanderingabout the town, desired me

to

come

to

Dooty,when corn

he

his hut,where I sent returned,

for my horse. July 7th, In the

me

well entertained ; and the and victualsfor myself, some

was

morning,when I was about to depart, with a great deal of diflBdence, beggedme to give my landlord, that white he said, him a lock of my hair. He had been told, men's hair made a saphie, that would give to the possessor all I had never before heard of so the knowledgeof white men. but instantly compliedwith the simplea mode of education, was such,that, request; and my landlord's thirst for learning and pulling, with cutting he croppedone side of my head pretty had I not with the other, closely ; and would have done the same on signified by putting my hat,and assuring my disapprobation "

pake's

156

him, that I wished for

a

to reserve

in

travels

some

of this precious merchandise

future occasion.

Wassiboo, about twelve should where I was obhgedto stopuntil an opportunity o'clock, which is distant a very long offerof procuring a guideto Satile, day'sjourney,throughwoods without any beaten path. I took up my residence at the Dooty'shouse,where accordingly I staid four days; duringwhich time I amused myselfby going Cultivation is to the fieldswith the familyto plantcorn. carried on here on a very extensive scale; and,as the natives known." themselves express it, hunger is never In cultivating the soil, the men and women work together.They use a to that used in Gambia; but largesharphoe,much superior with for fear of the Moors,to carry their arms theyare obliged, I

reached

a

small town

called

"

them to the field. The marks the field into

master, with the handle of his spear,

one regularplats,

of which is assigned to

every three slaves. On the eveningof the

of the fugitive Kaartans 11th,eight arrived at Wassiboo. to live They had found it impossible under the tyrannical government of the Moors, and were now to the King of Bambarra. going to transfer their allegiance and They ofleredto take me alongwith them as far as Satile, I accepted the offer. July 12th. At daybreakwe set out, and travelled with until sunset : we stoppedonlytwice in uncommon expedition the course of the day, once in the woods, at a watering-place and another time at the ruins of a town, formerly to belonging Daisy,called Illa-Gomjpe (thecom town). When we arrived of Satile, in the neighbourhood the peoplewho were employed in the corn fields, seeingso many horsemen,took us for a party of Moors,and ran screaming The whole town away from us. tion was alarmed,and the slaves were seen in every direcinstantly It was drivingthe cattle and horses towards the town. "

in vain that one

of

our

company

galloped up

to

undeceive them

:

THE

it

them onlyfrightened found

INTERIOR

OF

the

;

more

157

AFRICA.

and when

we

arrived at the

the gatesshut,and the

peopleallunder arms. After a longparley we were permittedto enter ; and,as there the Dooty allowed us was every appearance of a heavy tornado, in his baloon, and gave us each a bullock's hide for a to sleep town,

we

bed.

July 13th. "

The

roads

were

Earlyin wet

and

morning we againset forward. but the country was slippery; very which were increased by the rivulets, the

beautiful, aboundingwith About ten o'clock we came rain into rapid to the ruins streams. which had been destroyed of a village, by war about six months before ; and in order to preventany town from beingbuiltthere the largeBentangtree,under which the natives spent in future, the day,had been burnt down, the wells filledup, and everything that could make the spot desirable completely destroyed. that I could horse was About noon so much fatigued my and not keep up with my companions ; I therefore dismounted, them that I would follow as soon desired them to ride on, telling horse had rested a little. But I found them unwilling as my in those The lions, to leave me. theysaid,were very numerous attack a body of parts,and though they might not so readily fore theywould soon find out an individual. It was therepeople, agreedthat one of the company should stay with me to while the others passedon to Galloo assistin driving my horse, and collectgrass for the horses before night. to procure lodgings, Accompaniedby this worthyNegro,I drove my horse before of Galloo, in sight when we came until about four o'clock, me in a fertileand beautifulvalley considerable town, standing a surrounded with highrocks. in this neighof settling bourhood As my companionshad thoughts theyhad a fine sheepgiventhem by the Dooty ; and of corn for my horse. fortunate enoughto procure plenty I was teeth when they announce Here they blow upon elephants' as at Kemmoo. eveningprayers, in the same manner

park's

158

travels

in

havingfirstreturned many Earlynext morning(July14tli), while my fellowlandlord for his hospitality, thanks to our travellersoffered up their prayers that he mightnever want, we and about three o'clock arrived at Moorja, a large set forward, which the Moors bringhere in town, famous for its trade in salt, to exchangefor corn and cotton cloth. As most greatquantities of the peoplehere are Mahomedans, it is not allowed to the Kafirs to drink beer, which they call Neo-dollo (cornspirit), exceptin certain houses.

In

of these I

about twenty vessels of this beer with the greatest round large peoplesitting of them in conviviality, many the inhabitants is plentiful, believe

we

had

as

much

one

a are

corn

saw

state of intoxication.

remained

com

liberal to strangers. I milk sent us by different

very

and

have been sufficientforthree times

peopleas would and though we

As

here two

days,we

number

our

;

no experienced

diminution of their hospitality.

morning of the 16th

panied againset forward,accombound for by a coffleof fourteen asses, loaded with salt, romantic,between two Sansanding.The road was particularly rocky hills; but the Moors sometimes lie in wait here to plunder strangers.As soon as we had reached the open country, the master of the salt cofflethanked us for havingstaid with him so long,and now desired us to ride on. The sun was almost set before we reached Datliboo. In the evening had a we The house in which we lodgedbeing most tremendous tornado. admitted the rain in streams. The floor was soon flat-roofed, ankle deep,the fireextinguished, and we were leftto pass the bundles of firewood that happenedto lie in a nightupon some

On the

we

corner.

July 17th. -We departedfrom Datliboo,and cofflereturning o'clock passeda large from Sego,with "

about ten corn

mats, and other household utensils. At five o'clock we where we largevillage, Dooty would not receive a

intended us.

When

to

came

night,but departedfrom

pass the we

hoes, to

the this

THE

INTERIOR

OF

159

AFRICA.

that I was place,my horse was so much fatigued under the of driving him, and it was dark before we reached necessity Fanimboo,a small village heard ; the Dooty of which no sooner I that than he broughtout three old muskets, was a white man and was much disappointed when he was told that I could not them. repair July 18th. We continued our journey; but,owing to a feltourselves rather hungry we lightsupper the preceding night, this morning, and endeavoured to procure some com at a village, "

but without

success.

the land that is not

The towns

were

employedin

now

more

numerous,

and

cultivationaffords excellent

course pasturagefor largeherds of cattle; but owing to the greatcon-

of

from Sego,the peopledailygoingto and returning inhabitants are less hospitable to strangers. My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was of very littleservice to me ; I was now obhged to drive him for the greater part of the day,and did not reach before me Geosorro until eighto'clock in the evening. I found my companions refused wranglingwith the Dooty,who had absolutely sell them any provisions of us had to give or ; and as none tasted victuals for the last twenty-four hours,we were by no ing to fastanother day,if we could helpit. But findmeans disposed and beingvery much fatigued, entreaties without effect, our I fellasleep, with from which T was awakened,about midnight, the joyfulinformation, Mnnenata'" (thevictuals is come). This made the remainder of the nightpass away pleasantly ; and at daybreak, proposing July19th,we resumed our journey, called DooUnkeaboo,for the nightfollowing. to stop at a village leftsoon havingbetter horses than myself, My fellow-travellers, drivingmy horse,when I was walkingbarefoot, me, and I was about seventyin number, comingfrom met by a coflSeof slaves, Sego. They were tied togetherby their necks with thongsof slaves upon a thong, twisted like a rope ; seven a bullock'shide, with a musket between every seven. and a man Many of the ^^

park's

160

travels

in

slaves were

and a great number of them ill-conditioned,

In the

came

to

have

rear seen

Sidi Mahomed's

at the camp

servant,whom

of Benowm

that these slaves were

I remembered

he

knew me, presently goingto Morocco,by the ;

and

told

way

of Ludamar, and the Great Desert.

me

women.

afternoon,as I approachedDoolinkeaboo,I met the owners of the slaves I about twenty Moors on horseback, well armed with muskets, had seen in the morning; they were In

the

concerning inquisitive me, but not so rude as From them I learned that their countrymen generally are. Sidi Mahomed not at Sego,but had gone to Kancaba for was golddust. I was informed that my I arrived at Doolinkeaboo, When had gone on, but my horse was so much fatigued fellow-travellers that I could not possibly proceedafter them. The Dooty of of water, which is the town, at my request, a draught gave me looked upon as an earnest of greaterhospitality generally ; and I had no doubt of making up for the toilsof the day by a good I had neither one nor ; unfortunately supper and a sound sleep the other. The night was rainyand tempestuous,and the of water. to the draught Dooty limited his hospitahty treaties July20th. In the morning I endeavoured,both by enand threats, victuals from the Dooty, to procure some but in vain. I even beggedsome corn from one of his female she was as slaves, tification washing it at the well,and had the morthe Dooty was to be refused. However, when gone his wife the handful of meal, which I sent me to a fields, mixed with water and drank for breakfast. About eighto'clock from Doolinkeaboo, and at noon I departed a few minutes stopped where I had some milk given me at a largekorree, by the And Foulahs. hearingthat two Negroes were going from thence to Sego,I was happy to have their company, and we set four o'clock we out immediately.About stoppedat a small of the Negroesmet with an acquaintance, where one village, and

were

very

"

THE

who

invited us

to

INTERIOR

OF

161

AFRICA.

sort of

which was publicentertainment, conducted with more than common propriety.A dish made of milk and meal,called Smkatoo,and beer made from their sour distributedwith great liberality corn, was ; and the women admitted into the society, were a circumstance I had never before observed in Africa. There was no compulsion, every at liberty one was to drink as he pleased ; theynodded to each other when about to drink, and on setting down the calabash, and women commonly said berka (thankyou). Both men but theywere far from appearedto be somewhat intoxicated, beingquarrelsome. Departingfrom thence,we passedseveral largevillages, where I was constantly taken for a Moor, and became the subject of much merriment to the Bambarrans ; who seeingme drive my horse before me at my appearance. laughedheartily He has been at Mecca, says one, you may see that by his a

"

"

clothes; another asked to

me

if my

to be

took up

seen

was

sick ;

a

third wished

that I believe the very slaves in my company. Just before it was

purchaseit,etc.; so

ashamed

horse

were

dark, small village, where

for the nightat a lodging I procured and some for my horse, victualsfor myself, com some told that I should at the moderate priceof a button,and was the Niger(whichthe NegroescallJoUiba, see or the greatwater) earlythe next day. The lions are here very numerous ; the gates are shut a Httle after sunset,and nobodyallowed to go and The thoughts of seeingthe Niger in the morning, out. the troublesome buzzingof musquitoes, preventedme from shutting my eyes during the night;and I had saddled my of account horse and was in readiness before daylight ; but,on the wild beasts, were to wait until the people we were obliged to be a marketand the gatesopened. This happened stirring, filledwith people day at Sego,and the roads were everywhere four large differentarticlesto sell. We passed villages, carrying o'clock saw the smoke over Sego. and at eight we

our

M

park's

162 As

we

the approached

overtake the

travels

town, I

in

fortunate

was

Kaartans,to whose kindness fugitive

enough to

I had

indebted in my journeythroughBambarra. readilyagreedto introduce me to the king; and we so

much

been

They rode

throughsome marshyground,where,as I was anxiously together of them called out, geo affili one lookingaround for the river, with infinite (see the water),and lookingforwards,I saw of my mission, the long soughtfor the great object pleasure to the morning sun, as broad as the Niger,glittering majestic Thames at Westminster,and flowing slowlyto the eastward. I hastened to the brink,and,havingdrank of the water, liftedup my fervent thanks in prayer to the Great Ruler of all things, for havingthus far crowned my endeavours with success. The circumstance of the Niger's flowingtowards the east, did not, however,excite my surprise and its collateralpoints, ; I had leftEuropein greathesitation on this subject, for although I had and rather believed that it ran in the contrarydirection, made such frequent enquiries duringmy progress, concerning of difi'erent this river, such and received from Negroes, nations, clear and decisive assurances that its general towards course was leftany doubt on my mind ; and more the rising sun, as scarce that MajorHoughton had collectedsimilar as I knew especially "

information in the

same

manner.

of Bambarra,at which I had now arrived, Sego,the capital of four distincttowns ; two on the consists, properlyspeaking, northern bank of the Niger,called Sego Korro,and Sego Boo ; and two on the southern bank,called Sego Soo Korro and Sego See Korro. They are all surrounded with highmud walls ; the of a square form,with flatroofs ; some houses are built of clay, of them

have two

Besides these

quarter; and

and storeys,

of them

Moorish mosques buildings, the streets, though narrow,

useful purpose, in unknown. From entirely every

many

a

country where the best

are

in every broad enoughfor

are are

whitewashed. seen

are wheel-carriages I could make, I enquiries

THE

have

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

163

believe that

about Sego contains altogether thousand inhabitants. The kingof Bambarra constantly thirty resides at Sego See Korro ; he employsa great many slaves in and the money theyreceive conveyingpeopleover the river, (thoughthe fare is onlyten cowrie shells for each individual) furnishes a considerable revenue of to the king in the course The canoes of a singular each of them a year. are construction, beingformed of the trunks of two largetrees,rendered concave, and joined but end ways ; the junction not side by side, together, the middle of the canoe across beingexactly ; theyare therefore narrow, and have neither decks very longand disproportionably masts ; they are, however,very roomy ; for I observed in nor and several peoplecrossing the of them four horses, over one river. When with a view to pass over arrived at this ferry, we found a in which the king resides, to that part of the town we greatnumber waitingfor a passage ; theylooked at me with with concern, many Moors silent wonder,and I distinguished, of embarkation, three differentplaces There were them. among and expeditious and the ferrymen were ; but,from very diligent obtain a passage ; I could not immediately the crowd of people, to

reason

and sat down favourable

upon

of the river, to wait for a more The view of this extensive city; the

the bank

opportunity

and the river ; the crowded population the cultivated state of the surrounding country,formed altogether which I little a prospect of civilization and magnificence, numerous

canoes

expectedto

upon

find in the bosom

of Africa.

havingan opportunity the river ; duringwhich time,the peoplewho had of crossing crossed carried information to Mansong, the king,that a white was man waitingfor a passage, and was coming to see him. of his chief men, who informed sent over He immediately one see that the king could not possibly me me, until he knew what had broughtme into his country ; and that I must not presume He therefore the river without the king's to cross permission. I waited

more

than two hours without

park's

164

travels

in

to which he pointed, village, for the night; and said that in the morning he would giveme further instrucjtionshow to conduct myself. This was veryI off for there set was no remedy, discouraging.However, as that no the village great mortification, ; where I found,to my I was into his house. regardedwith person would admit me to sit all day without astonishment and fear,and was obliged in the shade of a tree ; and the nightthreatened to be victuals,

advised

very

me

to

lodgeat

a

distant

for the wind uncomfortable,

rose,

and

there

was

great

heavy rain ; and the wild beasts are so very in the neighbourhood, that I should have been under numerous the the necessity of climbingup the tree,and resting among branches. About sunset,however,as I was to pass preparing and had turned my horse loose, the nightin this manner, that he might graze at liberty, from the labours a woman, returning of the field, that I was stoppedto observe me, and perceiving which I briefly enquiredinto my situation, weary and dejected, with looks of greatcompassion, to her ; whereupon, explained she took up my saddle and bridle, and told me to follow her. Having conducted me into her hut, she lighted up a lamp, and told me 1 might remain there spreada mat on the floor, for the night. Findingthat I was very hungry,she said she would procure me something She accordingly to eat. went out, and returned in a short time with a very fine fish; which having appearance

of

a

caused to be half broiled upon some embers,she gave me for The ritesof hospitality being thus performedtowards supper. to the strangerin distress, my worthybenefactress (pointing I might sleepthere without apprehension) me mat, and telling a

called to the female part of her family, who had stood gazingon allthe while in fixed astonishment, their task of to resume me in which

theycontinued to employthemselves greatpart of the night. They hghtenedtheir labour by songs, of which was one composed extempore ; for I was myselfthe of the young of it. It was the subject women, sung by one cotton spinning

;

THE

INTERIOR

OF

l6o

AFRICA.

in a sort of chorus. The air was sweet and plaintive, joining and the words,literally these. The winds were translated, roared,and the rains fell. The poor white man, faint and rest

"

"

weary,

came

and

bringhim

milk ; pitythe white

sat under

our

tree.

He

has

mother

no

wife to

to

Chorus, Let grindhis com." has he,etc. etc." Trifling us man ; no mother this recital may as to a person in my appear to the reader, the circumstance was in the highest situation, affecting degree. I was by such unexpectedkindness ; and sleepfled oppressed from my eyes. In the morning I presented my compassionate with two of the four brass buttons which remained on landlady my waistcoat ; the onlyrecompense I could make her. all this day in conversation July21st. I continued in the village no

"

"

"

with the

who natives,

came

in crowds to

see

me

;

but

to findthat no message had evening, king; the more so, as the peoplebegan to whisper,that Mansong had received some very unfavourable from the Moors and Slatees residing at Sego ; accounts of me the concerning exceedingly suspicious who, it seems, were consultationshad motives of my journey. I learnt that many and disposal been held with the king, concerning ; my reception of the villagers and some franklytold me, that I had many

rather uneasy arrived from the

towards

enemies,and

expectno favour.

'was

must

arrived from a messenger July 22d. About eleven o'clock, the king, but he gave me very littlesatisfaction. He inquired and seemed much disif I had broughtany present, particularly told that I had been robbed of every when he was apponited to go alongwith him thingby the Moors. When I proposed when the kingwould send he told me to stopuntilthe afternoon, "

for

me.

July23d. In the afternoon another messenger arrivedfrom Mansong, with a bag in his hands. He told me it was the forthwith from the vicinage that I should depart king's pleasure in of Sego ; but that Mansong,wishingto relieve a white man "

park's

166

had distress,

sent

travels

in

five thousand

me

enable

to

me

journey ; the messenger added, that if my intentions were reallyto proceed to Jenne, he San sanding. I was had orders to accompany as me a guide to for this behaviour of the king ; but at first puzzled to account I had with the guide, I had afterwards from the conversation have admitted to believe that Mansong w^ould willingly reason into his presence at Sego, but was me apprehensive he might in purchase provisions

be

not

malice at

able

protect

of the Moorish

of my

course

against the

me

inhabitants.

and

prudent

once

made

to

the

cowries,* to

liberal.

His

The

blind

and

inveterate

conduct, therefore,was under

circumstances

I

which

Sego, were imdoubtedly such as might of the king a well-warranted create in the mind suspicionthat I wished to conceal the true objectof my journey. He argued he was told that I probably,as my guide argued : who, when had come from a great distance,and through many dangers,to behold the Joliba river,naturally if there were rivers no inquired, my

in my

at

appearance

country, and

own

whether

Notwithstandingthis,and the

Moors,

white

man

this

found

wretchedness

and

;

the sufierer to his

*

Mention

current

as

has

Bambarra, and

the

cheap, one hundred myself, and corn cowries

equal to

no

many

like another.

spiteof the jealousmachinations that prince thought it sufl5cient, dominions, in a condition of extreme other

plea was

necessary

made

of these

parts of the

East

little shells

to

of a

entitle

(p. 22) which

Indies, as well

adjacent countries,where

the necessaries

of

purchase

them

for my

one

not

was

bounty.

already been in

money,

in his

that

river

in

benevolent

was

one

would horse.

shilling.

commonly I

reckoned

about

a

two

as

Africa.

of life are

pass In

very

day'sprovisionsfor hundred

and

fifty

THE

INTERIOR

OF

CHAPTER

AFRICA.

167

XVI.

Dejparture from Segoand arrival at Kabha Description of the butter tree The Author and his guide Shea,or vegetable arrive at SansandingBehaviour of the Moors at that place The Author pursues his Journey the eastward to Incidents road the Arrives at Modiboo,and proceeds on forKea ; but to leave his horse by the Kmbarks at Kea in a obliged way s canoe fisherman for Moorzan ; is conveyedfrom thence the Nigerto Silla Determines to proceedno further across eastward Some accx)unt of the furthercourse of the Niger, and the towns in its vicinage, towards the east. "

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

J3EING, in leave Sego,I

the

manner

was

conducted the

miles to the

seven

which

that has been same

with eastward,

some

related, compelledto

eveningto

a

about village

of the inhabitants of

and by whom well we were acquainted, received.* He was very friendly and communicative, and spoke of his countrymen ; but withal told me, highlyof the hospitality that if Jenne was the placeof my destination, which he seemed of to have hitherto doubted,I had undertaken an enterprise I was of; for,although apprised greaterdangerthan probably the town of Jenne was a nominally part of the king of Bambarra's dominions, it was, in fact, he said, a cityof the Moors ; and even the leading part of the inhabitants beingBushreens, my

guidewas

that I found the languageof Bambarra a observed, I understood and spokeit sort of corrupted Mandingo. After a littlepractice, without difficulty. *

I should have before

park's

168 the governor

travels

in

himself,though appointedby Mansong, of the

dangerof falKnga second time into who would consider it not onlyjustifiable, but the hands of men to destroy me aggravated meritorious, ; and this reflectionwas I increased in t hat the advanced the as circumstance, danger by my journey; for I learned that the placesbeyond Jenne were in a stillgreater degree than under the Moorish influence, and Timbuctoo,the great objectof my Jenne itself; search, in possession of that savage and merciless people, altogether who

Thus

sect.

same

allow

no

was

I in

Christian to livethere.

But I had

advanced

now

far to think of returning to the

westward,on such vague and uncertain information, and determined to proceed ; and, being I departedfrom the village the on accompaniedby the guide, morning of the 24th. About eighto'clock we passeda large too

town

called Kabba, situated in the midst

of

a

beautiful and

highly-cultivated country; bearinga greaterresemblance to the of England than to what I should have supposedhad centre been the middle of Africa. The everywhere people were the fruitof the shea trees,from which employedin coflecting butter mentioned in former parts of theyprepare the vegetable this work.

These

trees grow

in

greatabundance

part of Bambarra.

They are not plantedby found growingnaturally in the woods ; and are land for cultivation, every tree is cut down but itselfvery

much

all

this^

over

the

but natives, in clearing wood the shea.

The

oak ; and the from the kernel of which,beingfirstdried in the sun, the fruit, tree

resembles the American

batter is

prepared by boihngthe kernel in water, has somewhat the appearance of a Spanisholive. The kernel is enveloped in under a thin green rind ; and the butter produced a sweet pulp, from it,besides the advantageof its keepingthe whole year without salt, is whiter, of a richer and, to my palate, firmer, flavour than the best butter I milk.

The

be among

ever

tasted made

from

cow's

of this commodityseem growthand preparation the first objects of African industry in this and

to

the

THE

states neighbouring

inland

;

INTERIOR

and

OF

AFRICA.

it constitutes a main

169 articleof their

commerce.

We

passed,in the course of the day,a greatmany villages, inhabited chiefly by fishermen ; and in the eveningabout five amved at Sansanding, o'clock, a very large as town, containing, I was told, from eightto ten thousand inhabitants. This place is much resorted to by the Moors, who bringsaltfrom Beeroo, and beads and coral from the Mediterranean, to exchangehere for gold-dust and cotton cloth. This cloth they sell to great advantagein Beeroo, and other Moorish countries, where,on account

of the want

I desired my

of rain,no cotton is cultivated. guideto conduct me to the house in which

lodge,by the most privateway possible.We rode alongbetween the town and the river, accordingly passing by a creek or harbour,in which I observed twenty large canoes, most of them loaded,and covered with mats to prevent fully the rain from injuring the goods. As we proceeded three other with passengers and one with goods. I two canoes arrived, was happy to find that allthe Negro inhabitants took me for a Moor; under which character I should probablyhave passed had not a Moor, who was unmolested, sitting by the river side, discovered the mistake,and setting up a loud exclamation, of his countrymen. a number broughttogether I arrived at the house of Counti Mamadi, the Dooty When of the town, I was surrounded with hundreds of people, speaking to of different dialects, all equally a variety unintelligible At length, me. by the assistance of my guide,who acted as I understood that one of the spectators pretended interpreter, other plac^, and another at some to have seen at one me place, that she had kept my and a Moorish woman swore absolutely house three years at Gallam,on the river Senegal. It was plainthat theymistook me for some other person, and I desired where they of the most confident to pointtowards the place two had seen me. They pointeddue south ; hence I think it prowe

were

to

park's

170 bable that seen

I had

many

yet heard.

in

Cape coast,where theymight have differentfrom any Their language was

from

theycame white

travels

men.

Moors

assembled in greatnumbers ; the Negroesto stand at compelling

The

now

with their usual arrogance a distance. They immediately beganto

me question concerning that I was not master of the Arabic, finding in hopes theycallIlhuidi (Jews), men, whom

religion ; but theysent for two that theymight be able my

to

converse

with

These

me.

Jews, in

dress and

resemble the Arabs ; but appearance, very much of Mahomet as to thoughtheyso far conform to the religion but little

in public, recite, prayers firom the Koran, theyare

the respected by the Negroes;and even that thoughI was a Christian, I was allowed, a Jew. They, however, insisted that,like conform

so

far

as

to

Moors a

themselves

better

man

Jews, I

the

than must

prayers ; and when them that I could telling

repeatthe Mahomedan

I

attemptedto waive the subject, by of them, a Shereef from Tuat, in not speakArabic,one Great Desert,started up and swore that by the prophet,

the if I

refused to go to the mosque he would be one that would assist in carrying thither. And there is no doubt but this threat me would

have been

in interposed

my

executed,had immediately behalf.

and he could stranger,

not

He see

told them me

not

that I

landlord

my

was

illtreated whilst I

the was

king's under

He therefore advised them to let me alone for protection. the night; assuring them that in the morningI should be sent about my business. This somewhat appeasedtheir clamour; but they(compelled to ascend a highseat by the door of the me might see me, for the people mosque, in order that everybody had assembled in such numbers as to be quite ungovernable climbingupon the houses,and squeezingeach other like the execution. at an Upon this seat I remained until spectators conducted into a neat littlehut, with a sunset,when I was small court before it, the door of which Counti Mamadi shut,to But this precaution me. prevent any person from disturbing

his

"

INTERIOR

THE

could not exclude the Moors.

OF

171

AFRICA.

They

climbed

the top of

over

in crowds into the court,in order, mud-wall,and came they and eat eggs. said,to see me performmy evening devotions^ the

The

former of these ceremonies

I did not think proper to

ply com-

with ; but I told them I had no objections to eat eggs, mediatel provided theywould bringme eggs to eat. My landlord im-

broughtme to

hen's eggs, and was much eat them raw ; for it seems

seven

find that I could not

surprised to be

a

that opinionamong the inhabitants of the interior, prevalent I had this diet. When on Europeanssubsist almost entirely landlord that this opinionwas succeeded in persuading my and that I would gladlypartakeof any without foundation, victuals which he might think proper to send me, he ordered a and part of it to be dressed for my supper. sheepto be killed, when the Moors had left me, he paid me a About midnight, and with much visit,

earnestness

desired

me

to

write him

a

old this hospitable saphie. If a Moor's saphieis good (said furnished man), a white man's must needs be better." I readily of all the virtues I could concentrate, him with one possessed "

The pen with which it was for it contained the Lord's prayer. made of a reed ; a littlecharcoal and gum-water written was made

very tolerable ink,and

a

thin board answered the purpose

of paper.

July25th. Earlyin the morning,before the Moors were and sleptthe ensuing from Sansanding, I departed assembled, nightat a small town called SibiU ; from whence, on the day distance from town at some I reached Nyara,a large following, where I halted the 27th,to have my clothes washed the river, and recruit my horse. The Dooty there has a very commodious and two storeyshigh. He showed me some house,flat roofed, out as a ; and pointed gunpowderof his own manufacturing a little brown monkey that was tied to a stake greatcuriosity from a far distant country, that it came me by the door,telling called Kong. "

park's

172

tkavels

in

departedfrom Nyara and reached Nyamee is inhabited chiefly This town about noon. by Foulahs from The Dooty (Iknow not why) would the kingdom of Masina. sent his son on horseback to conduct not receive me, but civilly July 28tli. "

me

to

I

Modiboo, which he assured

me

was

at

no

greatdistance.

throughthe woods,but in I observed forwards with great circumspection. went general that my guidefrequently stoppedand looked under the bushes. that lions he told me the reason of this caution, On inquiring in that part of the country,and frequently were very numerous attacked peopletravelling throughthe woods. While he was and lookinground I observed a speakingmy horse started, tance. kind standing at a httle dislargeanimal of the cameleopard The neck and fore-legs were very long; the head was furnished with two short black horns,turningbackwards ; the had a tuft of hair at which reached down to the ham-joint, tail, and it trotted the end. The animal was of a mouse colour, moving its head from manner, away from us in a very sluggish side to side, after this, to see if we were pursuingit. Shortly where there were as we were a few a large crossing open plain, scattered bushes,my who was littleway before me, a guide, wheeled his horse round in a moment, calhngout something in the Foulah language, which I did not understand. I inquired in Mandingo what he meant. Wara hillihilli (a very large said he,and made signsfor me But my to ride away. lion), horse was rode slowly too much fatigued past the bush ; so we from which the animal had givenus the alarm. Not seeing taken, however,I thoughtmy guidehad been misanythingmyself, when the Foulah suddenly put his hand to his mouth, Soubah an alluhi (God preserve us!) and to my exclaiming, I then perceived a great surprise largered lion at a short distance from the bush,with his head couched between his foreI expectedhe would instantly springupon me, and paws. to throw myself instinctively pulledmy feet from my stirrups We

rode

nearlyin

a

direct line

THE

INTERIOR

OF

173

AFRICA.

the

ground,that my horse might become the victim rather than myself. But it is probable the lion was not hungry, for he quietly suffered us to pass, thoughwe were within his fairly reach. My eyes were rivetted upon this sovereign of the so that I found it impossible them until we were to remove beasts, on

at

considerable distance.

a

We

took

now

a

circuitous route,

of these throughsome ground,to avoid any more swampy At sunset we arrived at Modiboo,a rencontres. disagreeable the banks of the Niger,commanding a on delightful village view of the river for many miles, both to the east and west. The small green islands (the industrious retreat of some peaceful from the depredations of Foulahs,whose cattle are here secure wild beasts) and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here much larger than at Sego,render the situation one of the most in the world. Here are caughtgreat plentyof fish enchanting of longcotton nets which the natives make themselves, by means in the same and use nearly used in Europe. manner as nets are I observed the head of a crocodilelyingupon one of the houses, which theytold me had been killed by the shepherds in a swamp in the Niger, the town. These animals are not uncommon near but I believe theyare not oftentimes found dangerous.They of littleaccount to the travellerw^hen comparedwith the are and of musquitoes, which rise from the swamps amazingswarms of the creeks in such numbers as to harass even the most torpid natives ; and

as

my

clothes were

almost

now

but ill prepared to resist their attacks.

was

to

worn

I

rags, I

usually passed

nightwithout shutting my eyes, walkingbackwards and forwards, fanningmyselfwith my hat. Their stingsraised with blisters on my legsand arms, which,together numerous the

of rest,made me very feverish and uneasy. observing July 29th. Early in the morning my landlord, with me that I was hurried me sickly, away, sendinga servant the want

"

as

a

horse

guideto was

Kea.

But

thoughI

stillless able to carry me,

was

littleable

to

walk,my

and about six miles to the

park's

174

travels

in

some rough clayeyground,he fell, Modiboo,in crossing of the guide and myselfcould not and the united strength time placehim againupon his legs. I sat down for some associate of my adventures ; but finding beside this worn-out I took off the saddle and bridle, and him stillunable to rise, of grass before him. I surveyedthe poor placeda quantity animal,as he lay pantingon the ground,with sympathetic that I emotion ; for I could not suppress the sad apprehension in the same should myselfin a short time lie down and perish of fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding I leftmy manner guide on poor horse,and with great reluctance followed my foot alongthe bank of the river until about noon, when we than a small reached Kea, which I found to be nothingmore village.The Dooty,a surlyold man, who was sitting fishing and when I informed him by the gate,received me very coolly, and begged his protection, told me, with great of my situation, that he paidvery littleattention to fine speeches, indifference, and that I should not enter his house. My guideremonstrated in my favour,but to no purpose, for the Dooty remained

east of

inflexiblein his determination. wearied

hmbs, but

was

I knew

not where

happilyreheved by a fishing-canoe at that moment was coming down the

which to Silla, belonging river. The Dooty waved to the fisherman to far as desired him to take chargeof me as consented to hesitation, fisherman,after some

embarked

wife,and Modiboo

in the canoe, a boy. The now

leftme.

his return,and take to do. promised

care

to rest my

in company

if he

was

near, and

Moorzan.

The

carry me,

and I

with the

Negro who had I requested him to of him

come

his fisherman,

conducted

me

from

look to my horse on stillalive, which he

Departingfrom Kea, we proceededabout a mile down the when the fisherman paddledthe canoe to the bank,and river, desired me to jump out. Having tied the canoe to a stake,he and dived for such a lengthof time, ofi"his clothes, stripped

that I

thoughthe to

had

drowned actually

his wife behave

see

175

AFRICA.

OF

INTERIOR

THE

with

so

and himself, much

was

prised sur-

indifferenceupon

when he raised up his the occasion ; but my fears were over head astern of the canoe, and calledfor a rope. With this rope

time,and then got into the canoe, and ordered the boy to assist him in pulling.At lengththey containing broughtup a largebasket,about ten feet in diameter, fine fish,which the fisherman (after the two returning carried ashore, basket into the water)immediately and hid in the grass. We then went a littlefurther down, and took up in which was fish. The fisherman now another basket, one left us to carry his prizesto some neighbouring market,and and boy proceeded with me in the canoe down the the woman he

dived

a

second

river. About

four o'clock we

arrived at

town Moorzan,a fishing the northern bank,from whence I was on conveyedacross the river to Silla, a large town, where I remained until it was quite dark,under a tree, surrounded by hundreds of people. But their language was very differentfrom the other partsof Bam-

informed that in my progress eastward the barra ; and I was and that when I Bambarra tongue was but littleunderstood, I should find that the

of the inhabitants majority calledJenne Kummo by the Negroes, spokea differentlanguage, Soudan by the Moors. and Kalam the Dooty allowed me to come With a great deal of intreaty but the placewas very damp, into his baloon to avoid the rain, of fever duringthe night. Worn and I had a smart paroxysm exhausted with hungerand fatigue, half naked, down by sickness, and without any article of value by which I might procure reflect to I or clothes, provisions, lodging, began seriously on convinced, by painful experience, my situation. I w^as now

reached Jenne

that the obstacles to my rains were The tropical

further progress were insurmountable. set in with alltheir violence ; already

and swamps the rice grounds

were

overflowed everywhere

; and

park's

176

in

travels

of every kind,unless by water, daysmore travelling obstructed. The cowries which remained would be completely not sufficientto enable of the king of Bambarra's presentwere in

few

a

and I had but little great distance, in a countrywhere the Moors by charity hopes of subsisting that I waa I perceived have such influence. But, above all, to hire

me

a

canoe

advancingmore

for any

and

within the power of those merciless both at Sego and Sansanding, reception

more

fanatics; and from my

Jenne to reach even that,in attempting apprehensive of consequence of some man under the protection (unless I should of obtaining), amongst them, which I had no means sacrificemy lifeto no purpose, for my discoveries w^ould perish The prospecteither way was with me. gloomy. In returning hundred miles preto the Gambia, a journeyon foot of many sented a nd countries itselfto my contemplation, throughregions tive, this seemed to be the only alternaNevertheless, unknown. to proceed inevitable destruction in attempting for I saw With this conviction on my mind, I hope my to the eastward. in goingno farther. that I did right readers will acknowledge I

was

made

I had

extent, which

every effort to execute

my

mission,in its fullest

prudencecould justify.Had

there been

the

neither the distant prospectof a successful termination, of a second of the journey, the dangers unavoidable hardships nor

most

should have captivity, me compelled necessity readers of my general satisfactionthat my since my return, to

forced

to

desist.

to do ; and whatever may

This,however, be the

opinion this point, it affords me inexpressible on honourable employers have been pleased, of my conduct. express their full approbation

Having thus broughtmy on

me

mind, aftermuch

doubt and

plexity, perdetermination I to return i t to a bent westward, thought incumto collectfrom the Moorish and me, before I leftSilla,

the further Negro traders allthe information I could concerning of the Nigereastward, and the situationand extent of the course

INTERIOR

THE

and kingdomsin itsvicinage, from

various

such

OF

177

AFRICA.

few following

the

induce

quartersas

me

notices I received

to

think

theyare

authentic. Two town

of

short

days'journeyto

or itself,

is situated on

Jenne,which

and is said to contain

a

a

of Silla is the

small island in the

greaternumber

of inhabitants than

in Bambarra.

other town

any

the eastward

river,

Sego

At the distance of two

days more, the river spreadsinto a considerable lake,called the extent of which all Dibbie (orthe dark lake), concerning the information I could obtain was, that in crossing it from of land one whole day. From lose sight west to east,the canoes this lake the

w^ater

terminate in two

issues in many

one largebranches,

different streams, which whereof flows towards the

north-east and the other to the east ; but these branches join at Kabra, which is one day's journeyto the southward of Timof that city. The buctoo,and is the port or shipping-place encircle is called Jinbala, tract of land which the two streams and the whole distance by land, and is inhabited by Negroes, from Jenne to Timbuctoo, is twelve days' journey. distance of eleven days'journeydown From Kabra, at the the stream, the ri^^erpasses to the southward of Houssa, which is two days'journeydistant from the river. Of the further and its final exit,all the natives progress of this great river, with whom commercial

I conversed seemed

seldom pursuits

to be

entirely ignorant.Their

induce them

to travel further than

of and Houssa ; and as the sole object is the acquirement those journeys of wealth, theypay but little

the cities of Timbuctoo

attention to the

course

of rivers, or the

geographyof countries. Nigeraffords a safe and

that the It is,however,highly probable between very remote easy communication informants

agreed,that

of the

All my merchants who

nations.

Negro and Houssa from the eastward, arrive at Timbuctoo speak a differentlanguage from that of Bambarra, or any other kingdom .

many

N

park's

178

in

travels

these merchants, it But even theyare acquainted. for would seem, are ignorantof the termination of the river, such of them as can speakArabic,describe the amazinglength in very general terms, sayingonlythat theybeheve of its course with which

it runs

to

The

the world's end.

of many

names

familiar to

are

quiversand informed

kingdomsto

inhabitants

the

the eastward

of Bambarra.

I

of Houssa was

shewn

which I of very curious workmanship, from the kingdom of Kassina.

arrows

came

On the northern bank of the

at Niger,

a

was

short distance from

is the kingdom of Masina,which is inhabited by Foulahs. Silla, in chiefly They employ themselves there,as in other places, annual tribute to the

and pay pasturage,

an

for the lands which

theyoccupy.

To

the north-east of Masina

king of

is situated the

of European research Timbuctoo,the great object

"

of this kingdom beingone commerce

The

which

of the

the Moors

marts principal

carry

on

Bambarra

kingdom of the capital

for that extensive

with the

Negroes,

and zeal for pagating wealth in this pursuit, hopesof acquiring prowith Moors their religion, have filledthis extensive city

and Mahomedan

and all the chief king himself, oflScersof state are Moors, and theyare said to be more severe and intolerant in their principles than any other of the Moorish tribes in this part of Africa. I was informed by a venerable old Negro,that when he first visited Timbuctoo, he took up his lodging at a sort of pubUc inn,the landlord of which,when he conducted him into his hut,spreada mat on the floor, and laid a rope upon it,saying, If you are a Mussulman you are sit down ; but if you are a Kafir, my friend, you are my slave, converts ; the

"

and with this rope I will lead you to market." The king of Timbuctoo is named Abu Abrahima ; he is to possess immense to

be clothed in

riches.

His wives and concubines

present

reported are

said

and the chief officersof state live in considerable silk, splendour.The whole expense of his government is

INTERIOR

THE

as defrayed,

I

told,by

was

a

OF

tax

for Moorish

great mart merchants

who

and it is larger and police, Houssa have

a

situated to the eastward of

name,

the

largekingdom of the is another Timbuctoo),

and city,

with many theyall agreedthat

The trade, populousthan Timbuctoo. in both ; but in government,are nearlythe same to the Moors,and Negroesare in greaterproportion more

share in the government. the small kingdom of Concerning some

collectmuch

information.

The

I was Jinbala,

the Moors The

not able to

soilis said to be

and the whole countryso fullof creeks and fertile, it.

is

I conversed

commer(*.e.

had visited that

which merchandise,

upon

collected at the gatesof the city. of The cityof Houssa (thecapital same

1^^

AFRICA.

remarkably

swamps,

that

have hitherto been baffled in every attemptto subdue inhabitants are Negroes, and some of them are said to

live in considerable which is a

those near the capital, affluence, particularly for such merchants as transportgoods resting-place

from Timbuctoo

to the western

To the southward

partsof Africa.

of Jinbala is situated the

Negro kingdom It was formerly were governedby but their their own invited invasion chiefs; privatequarrels of from the neighbouring chief, kingdoms. At lengtha politic of Moosee, had address enough to make them imite the name this occasion he was in hostilitiesagainstBambarra,and on for a chosen general the differentchiefsconsenting unanimously Moosee immediately time to act under his command. dispatched from the banks of the a fleet of canoes, loaded with provisions, lake Dibbie up the Niger,towards Jenne,and with the whole He arrived on of his army pushed forwards into Bambarra. the banks of the Nigeropposite to Jenne,before the townspeople had the smallest intimation of his approach ; his fleetof canoes he joinedhim the same day,and havinglanded the provisions, embarked part of his army, and in the nighttook Jenne by of Gotto,which is said to be of great extent. which divided into a number of petty states,

"

17"

park's

in

travels

^

s This

event

yengersto to deliver

"ygarprod

return

the

On

and

ago,

years

of

West

according

the

the

to

the

is

far

as

unnatural

with I

such

enemies

the

I

inhabitants war,

in

so

variety of people, whose that

of

have

must as

am

to

foundation,

the

Bambarra,

be

the to

of

the

and

to

even

many

it

in

the

if the

conceive

indulge

themselves

flesh.

the

Negroes

kingdoms,

of

the

been

term

applied exclusively

of

to

and

from

to

pect, sus-

The

bloody

selves satisfying them-

entirely without

Madummulo the

I

but

and

of credit.

long

a

give

;

occasion

no

degree

course

cruel

enemies

their

different

some

which,

of

great caution

report had

why

since.

with

had

seven

collect,are

to

of human

veracity I allow

to

about

ever

which

accounts

which

Baedoo,

towards

frequent opportunities

fact ; and

I cannot

eaters) should Maniana.

disposed had

able

was

received

be

to

account

same

capital

of

him

resentment

the

that

ought

from

inhabitants

disgusting banquets

aware

the

every

returned

Bambarra

the I

give quarter,

and

well

am

of their heard

to

never

of

Maniana,

ferocious, carrying their

and

and

tributary to

information

best

taken

kingdom

king

present

Baedoo

slaves

triumphant,

king,

is

continued

has

been

it,con-

name.

Gotto

of

west

conquered by

was

declared his

by

thus

Moosee,

was

is called

country

so

he

where

Gotto,

Gotto.

of

he

that

obtain

to

number

had

that

Bambarra,

order

in

certain

a

thing

every

of

inhabitants

Moosee

to

and

for peace,

sue

king of

terrified the

so

inhabitants

(manof

THE

INTERIOR

OF

CHAPTEE The

Author

XVII.

westward

returns

his horse

18t

AFRICA.

Arrives

"

at

Modihoo, and

covers re-

Finds

in travelling^ in great difficulty of the river consequence of the rains,and the overflowing "

"

informedthat the king of Bambarra had sent persons to Avoids Sego,and prosecuteshis journey apprehendhim Cruelties alongthe hanks ofthe Niger Incidents on the road attendant on Africanwars The Author crosses the River Frina, and arrives at Tafiara, Is

"

"

"

"

for the

XlAVING,

assignedin

the

last

chapter,, determined to proceed I acquainted no farthereastward than Silla, the Dooty with my intention of returning to to Sego,proposing travel along the southern side of the river ; but he informed reasons

me, that from the number

it was

travel

to impossible

northern bank ; and on impassable as

he

he

to

commended

eight o'clock hour for for

was

I

in the

landed

at

any

other route

than

that side,

alongthe

be that route, he said,would soon of the overflowing ever, of the river. How-

account

Moorzan.

by

on

swamps

even

my

agreedto speakto

over

of creeks and

some

determination one

of the fishermen

accordingly steppedinto a morning of July 30th,and Moorzan. At this placeI

and sixtycowries, fortycowries more,

westward^,

to return to

carry me.

about

canoe

in about

hired

a

an.

canoe

wher^, sleepin the

in the afternoon arrived at Kea, the

to me Dooty permitted of his slaves. This poor Negro,perceiving hut with one same that I was and that my clothes were sickly, very ragged, humanelylent me a largecloth to cover me for the night.

park's

182

July 31st. "

I embraced

beaten

beingno

in

Dooty'sbrother beinggoingto Modiboo, him thither, there of accompanying opportunity which road. He promisedto carry my saddle, The

my horse felldown in the to presentit to the kingof Bambarra. proposed

now

when

left at Kea

I had

We to

the

travels

departedfrom

the westward

Kea

and eighto'clock,

at

observed,on

the bank

woods, as I

about

a

mile

of the river, a great

piledup together.They were very jars, of that sort neatlyformed,but not glazed; and were evidently of potterywhich is manufactured at Downie (a town to the and sold to great advantagein different of Timbuctoo), west As we approachedtowards the jars, my parts of Bambarra. and threw it companionpluckedup a largehandful of herbage, to do the same, which I did. upon them ; making signsfor me told me that these jarsbelonged He then,with great seriousness, found in their preto some supernatural sent power ; that theywere number

of earthen

situation about

two

years

ago ; and

as

no

person

had

claimed

them, every traveller as he passedthem, from respect to the invisibleproprietor, threw some grass, or the branch of the heap,to defend the jarsfrom the rain. a tree,upon Thus conversing, travelled in the most friendly we manner, of the until,unfortunately, we perceived footsteps a lion,quite fresh in the mud, near the river side. My companion now and at last, proceededwith great circumspection; coming to thick underwood,he insisted that I should walk before some I endeavoured to excuse him. that I did myself, by alleging not know the road; but he obstinately and after a few persisted, high words and menacing looks,threw down the saddle and This very much disconcerted me ; but as I had away. a given up all hopes of obtaining horse,I could not think oi went

encumberingmyselfwith ^nd girths, I threw the

the saddle ; and taking off the stirrups saddle into the river. The Negro no

throw the saddle into the water, than he came runningfrom among the bushes where he had concealed himsooner

saw

me

THE

OF

INTERIOR

AFRICA.

183

and by help of his spear, brought self, jumped into the river, and ran out the saddle, away with it. I continued my course and I thick, alongthe bank ; but as the wood was remarkably had reason I to believe that a lion was at no greatdistance, became much alarmed,and took a long circuit throughthe bushes to avoid him. About

four in the afternoon I reached

Modiboo,where I found my saddle. The guide, who had got there before me, beingafraid that I should inform the king of his conduct,had

broughtthe While

I

saddle with him in

a

canoe.

with the Dooty,and remonstrating (conversing the guidefor havingleftme in such a situation, I heard against of the huts,and the Dooty inquired with a horse neighin one smile if I knew who was He explained to me ? a speaking himself by telling that my horse was and somestillalive, what me recovered from his fatigue ; but he insistedthat I should take him alongwith me, addingthat he had once kepta Moor's horse for four months,and when the horse had recovered and the Moor returned and claimed it,and got into good condition, refused to givehim any reward for his trouble. Aug. 1st. I departedfrom Modiboo, drivingmy horse before me, and in the afternoon reached Nyamee, where I remained three days; duringwhich time it rained without that no person could and with such violence, intermission, was

"

venture

out of doors.

from Nyamee ; but the country was Aug. 5th. I departed the road, in dangerof losing that I was so deluged, frequently knee and had to wade across the savannahs for miles together, which is the driest land in deep in water. Even the corn ground, that my horse twice stuck the country,was so completely flooded, fastin the mud, and was not got out without the greatest difficulty In the eveningof the same day I arrived at Nyara,where I did I was well received by the Dooty ; and as the 6th was rainy, untilthe morningof the 7th;but the water had swelled not depart "

pake's

184

travels

in

that in many placesthe road was scarcely height, waded breast deep across the swamps, passable ; and though I called Nemaboo, where, however, I could onlyreach a small village Foulahs for a hundred cowries,I procuredfrom some plentyof corn for my horse,and milk for myself. the day before, I had experienced Aug. 8th. The difficulties made me anxious to engage a fellow-traveller, as I particularly in the course of a few days, the countrywould be assured that, was overflowed as to render the road utterly so completely impassable ; I offered hundred for cowries but though two a guide, nobody would accompany me. However, on the morning following (August9th),a Moor and his wife,riding upon two bullocks, and bound for Sego with salt, and agreedto passedthe village, take me alongwith them ; but I found them of littleservice, for theywere with the road,and being whollyunacquainted accustomed to a sandysoil, were very bad travellers. Instead of wading before the bullocks, to feel if the groundwas solid, the woman entered the firstswamp, riding boldly upon the top of the load ; but when she had proceeded about two hundred yards, the bullock sunk into a hole, and threw both the load and herself the reeds. The frightened husband stood for some time among with horror,and suffered his wife to be seeminglypetrified to

such

a

"

almost drowned About

before he went

to

her assistance.

reached

Sibity ; but the Dooty received me ; and when I solicitedfor a guideto Sansanding, very coolly he told me his peoplewere otherwise employed. I was shown into a damp old hut,where I passeda very uncomfortable night; for when the walls of the hut are softened by the rain,they become too weak to support the weightof the roof. frequently I heard three huts fallduringthe night, and was apprehensive that the hut 1 lodgedin would be the fourth. In the morning, to pullsome as I went I counted fourteen grass for my horse, sunset

we

huts which had fallen in this manner of the

rainyseason.

since the commencement

THE

as

INTERIOR

OF

185"

AFRICA.

It continued to rain with great violence allthe 10th ; and the Dooty refused to give me I purchased any provisions, corn, which I divided with my

some

Aug. 11th.

horse.

The

Dooty compelledme to departfrom the without any great hopes of town, and 1 set out for Sansanding, faringbetter there than I had done at Sibity ; for I learned from peoplewho came to visit me, that a reportprevailed, and that I had come to Bambarra as a spy ; was believed, universally and as Mansong had not admitted me into his presence, the Dooties of the differenttowns to treat me in at liberty were what manner theypleased.From repeatedly hearingthe same "

story,I had

doubt of the truth of it ; but

no

as

there

was

no

I determined to proceed, and a littlebefore sunset alternative, I arrived at Sansanding. My reception what I expected. was Counti Mamadi, who had been so kind to me formerly, scarcely welcome. Every one wished to shun me, and my gave me landlord sent

reportwas

very unfavourable received from Segoconcerning me, and that he wished a

person

me

that

a

morning. About ten o'clock at night Counti Mamadi himself came to me, and informed me privately that Mansong had dispatched to Janne to bringme a canoe in going back ; and he was afraid I should find greatdifficulty from to depart to the west country. He advised me, therefore, Sansandingbefore daybreak against stopping ; and cautioned me at Diggani, town near or any Sego. Aug. 12th. I departedfrom Sansanding,and reached in the afternoon. As I approached the town, I was Kabba several peopleassembled at the gate; one of to see surprised whom, as I advanced,came runningtowards me, and takingmy led me horse by the bridle, round the walls of the town ; and fare to the west, told me then pointing or it would to go along, the danger with me. It was in vain that I represented worse of in the woods, exposedto the inclemency of being benighted Go along,'' the weather,and to the fury of wild beasts. me

to

departearlyin

to inform

the

"

"

park's

186

allthe

was

answer

;

urging me in the that some suspected search of me,

and

peoplecoming up,

with

manner

of the

king's messengers, me

;

and

great earnestness, I

same

conducted kindness,

mere

of

number

a

in the town

were

in

travels

who

and that these

past it with

a

were

sent in

Negroes,from to facilitate

view

took the road for Sego^with the accordingly the nighton the branches of uncomfortable prospectof passing about three miles I came to a small After travelHng a tree. sticks by the the road. The Dooty was splitting near village escape.

my

I

admittance ; and when I attemptedto enter,he jumped up, and with the stick he held if I presumed offthe horse, in his hand threatened to strike me

gate ; but I found I could have

no

advance another step. and At a littledistance from this village,

to

farther from

the

that being rather conjectured out of the common route, the inhabitants might have fewer house-room for the night; and having to give me objections I sat down under a tree by the well. crossed some corn fields,

road,is another small

Two

or

three

women

I was perceiving

told her I

a

one.

came

I

to draw

water, and

whither I stranger,inquired

one was

of them, going. I

on the roadj goingfor Sego,but beingbenighted I wished to stayat the village until morning,and beggedshe would acquaint the Dooty with my situation. In a littletime the Dooty sent for me, and permittedme to sleep in a large baloon,in one corner of which was constructed a kiln for drying was

the fruitof the Shea trees ; it contained about half a cart-load of fruit, under which was kept up a clear wood fire. I was informed that in three and

daysthe

fruitwould be

ing readyfor pound-

and that the butter thus manufactured is boiling, to that which is preparedfrom fruitdried in the sun, preferable in the rainyseason, when the especially process by insolation is and oftentimes ineffectual. tedious, i^lways Augi 13th. About ten o'clock I reached a small village within half a mile of Sego,where I endeavoured, but in vain, '

"

THE

INTERIOR

OF

l8t

AFRICA.

provisions. Every one seemed anxious to avoid me ; and I could plainly perceive, by the looks and behaviour of the inhabitants, that some very unfavourable had been circulated concerning accounts I was me. again informed that Mansong had sent people to apprehend me ; and the Booty'sson told me I had no time to lose if I wished 1 now to get safe out of Bambarra. fullysaw the dangerof and determined to avoid Sego altogether. I my situation, mounted my horse, and taking the road for Diggani, accordingly travelled as fast as I could until I was out of sight of the when I struck to the westward,throughhighgrass villagers, and swampy ground. About noon, I stoppedunder a tree to to

procure

some

consider what

course

the Moors

Slatees had misinformed the

and

to

take,for I had

now

no

doubt but that

the kingrespecting in objectof my mission,and that the peoplewere absolutely search of me to convey me a prisoner I to Sego. Sometimes had thoughts of swimmingmy horse across the Nigerand going that I had ten to the southward for Cape Coast ; but reflecting days to travel before I should reach Kong, and afterwards an extensive countryto traverse,inhabited by various nations, with I was I whose languageand manners unacquainted, totally this scheme,and judgedthat I should better answer relinquished the purpose of my mission by proceeding to the westward alongfar the river was the Niger,endeavouring to ascertain how in that direction. Havingresolved upon this course, navigable and a Httle before sunset arrived at a I proceeded accordingly, Foulah village called Sooboo,where,for two hundred cowries, for the night. I procured lodging Aug. 14th. I continued my course along the bank of the and well-cultivatedcountry. I passed river, througha populous called Kamalia,*without stopping a walled town ; and at noon town called Samee, where there happened rode through a large assembled in an open to be a market,and a number of people "

I. *

There isanother town of this name

hereafterto be mentioned.

park's

188

in

travels

cattle, cloth, corn, "c. placein the middle of the town, selling I rode throughthe midst of them without beingmuch observed ; In the afternoon I arrived at for a Moor. every one takingme called Binni,where I agreedwith the Dooty's a small village to stay forthe night to allow me hundred cowries, ; son, for one he insistedthat I should instantly but when the Dooty returned, had not interceded for leave the place ; and if his wife and son me, I must have complied. town called Aug. 15th. About nine o'clo(ikI passeda large Sai,which very much excited my curiosity.It is completely surrounded by two very deep trenches at about two hundred yardsdistant from the walls. On the top of the trenches,are "

a a

of square towers, and the whole has the appearance of into the origin of this extraordinary fortification. Inquiring regular

number

entrenchment,I learned from two of the townspeople the following ture which,if true, furnish a mournful picparticulars, of the enormities of African

wars.

About

fifteen years

ago, when the presentking of Bambarra's father desolated Maniin slain in battle, sons fighting ana, the Dooty of Sai had two

the

cause. king's

He

had

a

third

son

and living,

the

when

king

furtherreinforcement of men, and this youthamong This conduct so the rest, the Dooty refused to send him. demanded

a

enragedthe king,that when he returned from Maniana, about the beginningof the rainyseason, and found the Dooty protected he sat down before Sai with his army, by the inhabitants, and surrounded

the town

After

two

a

siegeof

with the trenches I had

now

seen.

became involved months, the townspeople

in all the horrors of famine ; and whilst the king'sarmy were in their trenches, the miserable feasting they saw, with pleasure,

inhabitants of Sai devour the leaves and bark

of the

Bentang however, Finding, that the besieged would sooner the king perishthan surrender, had recourse to treachery. He promised, that if they would sufferany nor open the gates,no person should be put to death,

tree

that stood in the middle of the town.

THE

but injury

the

OF

INTERIOR

Dooty alone.

The

Igfe

AFRICA.

poor old

sacrificehimself for the sake of his

determined to

man

and immediately fellow-citizens,

king'sarmy, where he was put to death. His son, in attempting to escape, was sacred caughtand masin the trenches, and the rest of the townspeople were carried away captives, and sold as slaves to the differentNegro walked

the

to

over

traders. About the bank

Sibiliwas but

of Kaimoo, situated upon village I had purchasedat of the river ; and as the corn I endeavoured to purchase a fresh supply exhausted, ; noon

I

to the

came

informed that

was

corn

become

was

very

all over

scarce

the

cowries for a small quantity, country ; and thoughI offered fifty no

person one

would sellme

As I

any.

was

about to

of the villagers mistook (whoprobably

shereef) broughtme

some

as

a

me

ever, howdepart, for a Moorish

me present, onlydesiring

in

him, which I did in plain and he received it with a thousand acknowledgments. English, Of this presentI made my dinner, and it was the third successive corn. day that I had subsisted entirely upon raw In the eveningI arrived at a small village called Song,the surlyinhabitants of which would not receive me, nor so much to enter the gate ; but as lionswere as permit me very numerous in this neighbourhood, in the course of the and I had frequently, of their feet on the road,I resolved to day,seen the impression of the village. Havingcollectedsome grass stay in the vicinity for my horse, I accordingly laydown under a tree by the gate. return,to bestow my

About

blessing upon

ten o'clock I heard the hollow

roar

of

a

lion at

no

great

from to open the gate ; but the people attempted within told me, that no person must attempt to enter the gate

and distance, without the

Dooty that would answer

Booty'spermission.I beggedthem to inform the and I hoped he the village, a lion was approaching

allow

me

to

come

to this message

prowhnground

the

within the gate. I waited for an with great anxiety : for the lion kept

and village,

once

advanced

so

vejy

near

me,

park's

190 that I heard him

in

travels

the grass, and climbed the tree midnightthe Dooty with some of his people

rustling among

safety. About vinced, opened the gate,and desired me to come in. They were conthey said,that I was not a Moor, for no Moor ever the without cursing waited any time at the gate of a village,

for

inhabitants.

Aug. 16th. "

About

ten

o'clock I

passeda

considerable

Here the country begins town, with a mosque. Called Jabbe. and I could see the summits of highmountains to rise into hills, all this I had very disagreeable to the westward. travelling

day

on

was

now

flat land was

of the

account

risen to such on

swampinessof the roads ; for the river as to overflow greatpart of the a height, of the water, it of these In crossing one

and from the muddiness both sides,

difficultto discern its

depth.

called Gangu,my swamps, a littleto the westward of a town in water, slipt into a deep horse beingup to the belly suddenly and pit,

was

almost drowned

before he could

from the stifi" clayat the bottom.

Indeed

his feet disengage

both the horse and

covered with mud, that in passing completely of Callimana, the village the peoplecomparedus to two dirty I stopped About noon at a small village near Yamina, elephants. where I purchased some corn, and dried my papers and clothes. The town of Yamina, at a distance, has a very fine appearance. It covers t he of nearly same extent groundas Sansanding ; but havingbeen plundered by Daisy, kingof Kaarta,about four nearly years ago, it has not yet resumed its former prosperity half of the town beingnothing but a heapof ruins ; however, one and is so much frequented it is stilla considerable place, by the Moors, that I did not think it safe to lodgein it; but,in order its population to satisfy and extent, I resolved myselfrespecting to ride throughit ; in doingwhich,I observed a great many Moors sitting and other placesof public upon the Bentangs, with astonishment ; but as I .resort. Everybodylooked at me rode briskly theyhad no time to ask questions. along, itsrider were

so

"

THE

OF

INTERIOR

191

AFRICA.

eveningat Farra,a walled village, where, without much diflSculty, for the night. I procured a lodging Aug. 17th. Earlyin the morningI pursuedmy journey, and at eighto'clock passeda considerable town called Balaba ; after which the road quitsthe plain, and stretches alongthe side of the hill. I passedin the course of this day the ruins I arrived in the

"

of three towns

the inhabitants of which

;

by Daisy,kingof Kaarta,on Near one Yamina. plundered tree,but found

the

same

were

day

all carried away that he took and

of these ruins I climbed

a

rind tama-

the fruit

quitegreen and sour, and the inviting prospectof the countrywas by no means ; for the high to obstruct the road,and gi'ass and bushes seemed completely all so flooded by the river, that the Niger the low lands were had the appearance of an extensive lake. In the eveningI arrived at Kanika, where the Dooty,who was sitting upon an hide at the gate,received me kindly elephant's ; and gave me milk and meal, which I considered (asto a for supper some was) a very greatluxury. person in my situation it really Aug. 18th. By mistake I took the wrong road, and did

I not

"

discover

when

error

my

coming

to

an

until I had

travelled

eminence,I observed

four miles ; the Nigerconsiderably near

towards it,I travelled Directing my course until two throughlonggrass and bushes,with great difficulty, o'clock in the afternoon ; when I came to a comparatively small, which I took at firstfor a creek,or one but very rapidriver, of the Niger. However, after I had examined of the streams I was convinced that it was a distinct it with more attention, I could see the crossed it (for river ; and as the road evidently I sat down side), pathwayon the opposite upon the bank,in who would giveme the hopesthat some traveller mightarrive, the fordingplace ; for the necessary information concerning to

banks

the left.

were

so

covered with reeds and

have been almost at the

bushes,that it would the other side,except

to land on impossible of the stream, pathway; which,on account of the rapidity

park's

192

it seemed

there

and and

being

and

standing

was

bridle

the

place, and

the

to

him

make

to

great vehemence both

devour

his

to

himself,

he

of which the

promised told

bank, and

other

to

effected

without

natives

l^arra,to

the

assist

me

He

to

me

reeds

and

my

;

soon

was

improved,

from

pure

Mandingo.

and

same

;

the

from

boys

agreed,

I arrived

that

corrupted

boys for

river, which in

God

"

little way

answered

the

his

the

the the

dialect

as

way

two

over

a

put

with

discovered the

a

seen

speak

me

river

went

who

these

horse

difficulty ; and

town,

then

canoe

a

heard

crossing the

person,

time,

the

much

walled

some

short

a

going the

He

over.

voice,

I

was

swim

twice of

tone

with

me

before

never

by

said, would

to

he

in

Frina.

was

transport

a

that

low

a

saddle,

ally accident-

(tailed to

when

but

found

among

cowries,

of the

me

In

from

Taffara,

to

called

side.

paddling

at

is this?"

who

he

had

far

horse

came

man

attempted

we

in

the

upon

to

too

me

he alligators,

stranger, who

exclaiming

tongue, and

Bambarra

a

water,

The

upon

pulling my

wonderfully surprised.

mouth,

me!

preserve

the

in

me

horse, if

my

seemed

European, hand

and

when

me,

swept

clothes

in water,

out.

come

got out, the

I had

When

seeing

to

me

follow

had

my

grass

in order

pathway,

stream

neck

the

to

up

the

I fastened

this view

With

down.

before

side

the

above

the

determined

and

bank,

the

up

arriving,

of rain, I examined

considerably

other

the

way

some

river

the

entering

traveller,however,

No

great appearance

a

for

bushes,

reach

difficult to reach.

very

in

travels

name

along the came

fifty was

evening language of Bam-

THE

INTERIOR

OP

CHAPTER

193

AFRICA.

XVIII.

at Taffara A Negrofuneral at SooJia reception InJiospitahle The Author continues his route through several villages along the hanks of the Niger, until he comes to Koolikorro ports SupLoses himself hy writingsaphies Reaches Marahoo the road,and after arrives at Bammakoo many difficulties Takes the road for Sihidooloo Meets with great kindness at called Kooma Is afterwards a village and rohhed, stripped, and consolation hy handitti The Author s resource plundered under exquisite distress He arrives in safety dooloo, at Sihi"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

vJN

my

arrival at

I enquired for the Dooty,but Taflara,

informed that he had

died

a

few

that there was, at that moment, a another ; there beingsome electing It was

was

and days before my arrival, meetingof the chief men for about the succession. dispute

probably owingto the unsettled state of the town, that I such a want of hospitality in it ; for thoughI informed experienced the inhabitants that I should onlyremain with them for one night,and assured them that Mansong had given me some cowries to pay for my lodging, yet no person invited me to in ; and I was forced to sitalone under the Bentang tree, come exposedto the rain and wind of a tornado,which lasted with greatviolence until midnight. At this time the strangerwho and had assisted me in crossing the river paidme a visit, that I had not found a lodging, invited me to take observing part of his supper, which he had broughtto the door of his hut ; for being a guest himself, he could not, without his landlord's 0

park's

194

consent, invite me

to

After this,I

in.

come

in

travels

sleptupon

some

My horse fared stillworse I had purchased beingall expended,and than myself;the corn I could not procure a supply. Aug. 20th. I passedthe town of .Taba,and stoppeda few I begged and called Somino, where minutes at a village obtained some coarse food,which the natives prepare from the grass in the

wet

of

corner

a

court.

"

to the About two o'clock I came husks of corn, and callBoo, from some corn of Sooha, and endeavoured to purchase village I the Dooty,who was sitting by the gate,but without success. '

then had

a Kttle requested

to

none

of this

spare.

food

by

Whilst I

old inhospitable

man,

way was

and

told he but was charity, examiningthe countenance to find out the endeavouring

visible in his eye, he working in the corn-field at a httle

of the sullen discontent which

cause

called to

a

slave who

was

of

was

and ordered him to bring his hoe along with him. distance, The Dooty then told him to diga hole in the ground; pointing The slave, with his hoe, began to a spot at no greatdistance.

Dooty,who appearedto be of a very fretfuldisposition, a man keptmutteringand talking almost finished, when he repeatedly to himself until the pitwas the words dankatoo (goodfor nothing), lemen pronounced ya/?^ra I thoughtcould be apphed (a real plague) ; which expressions to nobody but myself;and as the pit had very much the appearance of a grave, I thoughtit prudentto mount my horse, about to decamp,when the slave, and was who had before gone into the village, to my returned with the corpse of a surprise, boy about nine or ten years of age, quitenaked. The Negro carried the body by a legand an arm, and threw it into the pit to

diga pitin

with he

a

savage

the earth ; and the

indifferencewhich I had

never

before

seen.

As

body with earth,the Dooty often expressed whence I concluded that himself, naphulaattimata (money lost), the boy had been one of his slaves. from this shocking I travelled by the side scene Departing covered the

INTERIOR

THE

of the river until sunset,when

town, and

lodgingat

a

I

195

AFRICA.

to

came

derable a consiKoolikorro,

greatmarket for salt. Here I took up my

the house of

the slave of

OF

a

been Bambarran,who had formerly

Moor, and in that character had travelled to in the Great Desert ; Aoran,Towdinni,and many other places but turningMussulman, and his master dying at Jenne, he obtained his freedom,and settled at this place, where he carries on

in

a

a

considerable trade in salt, cotton cloth, His knowledge etc. of the world has not lessened that superstitious confidence

and saphies

for when

he

charms which he had imbibed in his earlieryears ; heard that I was he immediately a Christian,

and for this thought of procuringa saphie, out his walha, or writing-board, assuringme dress

me

a

of rice if I would

supper

protecthim from wicked

The

purpose

brought

that he

write him

a

would

saphieto

of too great to me to be refused ; I therefore wrote the board consequence full from top to bottom on both sides ; and my landlord, to be certain of

having the

men.

whole

was proposal

force of the

charm,w^ashed the

writingfrom the board into a calabash with a littlewater, and havingsaid a few prayers over it,drank this powerfuldraught: after which,lest a single word should escape, he licked the board until it was quitedry. A saphiewriter was a man of too great information to be long concealed ; the important consequence carried to the Dooty,who sent his son with half a sheet of was to write him a napJiula me writing sapMe (acharm paper, desiring meal to procure wealth). He broughtme, as a present, some and milk ; and when I had finished the saphie, and read it to him with an audible voice,he seemed highlysatisfiedwith his milk for and promised in the morning some to bringme bargain, my

breakfast.

When

I laid myselfdown

I had finishedmy

upon

a

supper of rice and

salt,

slept very quietly and refreshing sleep

bullock's hide,and

morning; this beingthe firstgoodmeal that I had enjoyedfor a longtime. and Aug. 21st. At daybreakI departedfrom Koolikorro, until

"

park's

196 about

in

travels

and

of Kayoo the villages passed

noon

In

Toolumbo.

afternoon I arrived at Maraboo, a largetown, and like conducted to Koolikorro,famous for its trade in salt. I was I was the house of a Kaartan, of the tribe of Jower, by whom

the

a considerable property acquired to strangers,was in the slave trade,and from his hospitality and his Jattee (thelandlord), called by way of pre-eminence, inn for all travellers. Those who house was a sort of public for they alwaysmade him some well lodged, had money were to givewere return for his kindness ; but those who had nothing content to acceptwhatever he thoughtproper ; and as I could the monied men, I was happy to take not rank myselfamong hut with seven in the same poor fellows who had up my lodging

This

well received.

Kancaba

from

come

had

man

in

But

canoe.

a

landlord sent

our

us

victuals.

some

Aug. 22d. littleway

"

One

of the landlord's servants

from the town

whether from

to

shew

I know or design, ignorance

and I did not discover my far advanced ; when, coming to wrong

what

me

back thoughtsof turning

;

but

as

a

by

until the

deep creek,I that

with

me

a

road to take ; but not, he directed me

mistake

;

went

means

day was

had

some

I foresaw that

I could not

I resolved reach Bammakoo before night, possibly it ; and leading to cross my horse close to the brink,I went behind him, and pushedhim headlong into the water ; and then to the other side. over takingthe bridle in my teeth,swam

This

the third creek 1 had

since I crossed in this manner, had left Sego; but havingsecured my notes and memorandums in the crown of my hat,I received littleor no inconvenience from

was

such

adventures.

The

rain and

heavy dew kept my clothes constantly wet ; and the roads beingvery deep and full of mud, such a washingwas sometimes pleasant, and oftentimes necessary. I continued travelling throughhigh grass without came to the river,the banks any beaten road,and about noon of which are here very rocky, and the force and roar of the

INTERIOR

THE

water

were

OF

197

AFRICA.

great. The king of Bambarra's

very

ever, canoes, how-

frequently by keepingclose to the pass these rapids, bank ; persons beingstationed on the shore with ropes fastened to the canoe, while others push it forward with long poles. At this time, however,it would,I think,have been a matter of for any Europeanboat to have crossed the stream. great difficulty About four o'clock in the afternoon, having altered my course from the river towards the mountains, 1 came to a small pathway, which led to a village called Frookaboo,where I slept. Aug. 23d. Earlyin the morningI set out for Bammakoo, I at which placeI arrived about five o'clock in the afternoon. "

had heard Bammakoo

much

talked of

as

a

greatmarket

for salt,

and I feltrather

to find it onlya middlingtown, disappointed not quiteso largeas Marraboo ; however,the smallness of its than compensated size is more by the riches of its inhabitants ; for when the Moors bringtheir salt throughKaarta or Bamrest a few days at this place barra,theyconstantly ; and the with the value Negro merchants here,who are well acquainted of salt in diff'erent kingdoms,frequently purchaseby wholesale, and retailit to great advantage. Here I lodgedat the house of a Sera-WooUi Negro,and was visited by a number of Moors. civil to me more They spokevery good Mandingo,and were

One of them had travelled than their countrymen had been. of the Christians. He to Rio Grande,and spokevery highly sent

me

in the

endeavoured

evening some

to procure

westward,from the Gambia.

a

information

slave merchant He

boiled rice and

milk.

concerning my

who

had

resided

I

now

route to the some

years of the

account imperfect that and enumerated the names of a greatmany places distance, that the road was sable impaslay in the way ; but withal told me he said, of the year ; he was at this season afraid, even in proceeding that I should find greatdifficulty any farther ; as the road crossed the Joliba at a town about half a day's journey at of Bammakoo to the westward ; and there beingno canoes on

gave

me

some

198 that

receive my horse,I could not possibly This months to come. was an for some

placelargeenoughto get hiin

I had no money to very serious nature ; but as myselfeven for a few days,I resolved to push on,

obstruction of maintain

over a

and if I could not convey

my

horse

the river, to abandon

across

myself. In thoughtsof this nature I lord and in the morning consulted with my landpassedthe night, He informed the presentdifficulty. how I should surmount indeed very rocky, that one road stillremained,which was me and scarcely for horses;but that if I had a proper passable he had no guideover the hills to a town called Sibidooloo, I might travel forwards and caution, doubt,but with patience throughManding. I immediatelyappliedto the Dooty,and informed that a Jilli Kea was man) was about to (singing the and would shew me the road over departfor Sibidooloo, him, and

swim

hills. With travelled up

over

this man,

who

undertook

be my miles,when to

conductor,I

to a we came rockyglen about two small village musical fellow-travellerfound out ; and here my that he had broughtme the wrong road. that the He told me horse-road layon the other side of the hill, and throwinghis drum upon his back,mounted where indeed no up the rocks, horse could follow him, leavingme and to admire his agility, trace out a road for myself. As I found it impossible to proceed, I rode back to the level ground,and directing course my to the eastward,came about noon to another glen,and discovered which I observed the marks of horses' feet a path on this path,I came in a short time to some following shepherds' huts,where I was informed that I was in the rightroad,but that I could not possibly reach Sibidooloo before night. Soon after this 1 gainedthe summit of a hill, from whence 1 had an extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east appeared some from seen very distant mountains,which I had formerly eminence near an Marraboo,where the peopleinformed me that these mountains were situated in a largeand powerfulkingdom a

"

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

199

called Kong ; the sovereign of which could raise a much greater Upon this heightthe soil is army than the king of Bambarra. shallow ; the rocks are ironstone and piecesof white quartz.

with detached schistus,

A

littlebefore sunset, I descended on the north-west side of this ridgeof hills; and as I was looking about for a convenient which to pass the night(for I had no hopesof reaching and soon valley, any town),I descended into a delightful afterwards arrived at a romantic village called Kooma. This

tree

under

is surrounded by a highwall,and is the sole property village of a Mandingo merchant,who fled hither with his family during The adjacent of corn, his fieldsyield him plenty a former war. cattle roam at largein the valley, and the rockyhills secure him from the depredations In this obscure retreat he of war. is seldom visited by strangers this happens, he ; but whenever I soon makes the weary travellerwelcome. found myselfsurrounded by a circleof the harmless villagers. They asked me about my country; and, in return for my a thousand questions and grass for information, broughtcorn and milk for myself, and to sleep, my horse ; kindled a fire in the hut where I was appearedvery anxious to serve me. from Kooma, accompaniedby two Aug. 25th. 1 departed who were shepherds, goingtowards Sibidooloo. The road was and as my horse had hurt his feet much very steep and rocky, and with great in coming from Bammakoo, he travelled slowly and the the ascent was so sharp, difficulty places ; for in many "

declivitiesso great,that if he had made one false step,he must have been dashed to pieces. The shepherds being inevitably or proceed, gave themselves littletrouble about me at a considerable distance. It was on my horse,and keptw^alking at a about eleven o'clock, to drink a littlewater as I stopped rivulet (my companions beingnearlya quarterof a mile before to each other,and preme), that I heard some peoplecalling sently I distress. in a loud screaming, as from a person great

anxious

to

pake's

200

that conjectured immediately

and

mounted

my

travels

a

horse

in

lion had taken to

have

a

one

of the

herds, shep-

better view of what

happened. The noise,however,ceased ; and I rode slowly I thoughtit had proceeded, towards the placefrom whence had

In a little out, but without receivingany answer. calling of the shepherds one lyingamong time,however, I perceived the road ; and thoughI could see no blood the longgrass near I came But when close dead. upon him, I concluded he was that a party of to stop; telling to him, he whispered me me

armed arrows

seized upon his companion,and at himself as he was making his escape. I had

men

consider what distance

a

man

also the heads

shot

two

stoppedto

take,and lookinground,saw at a little the stump of a tree ; I distinguished on sitting to

course

of six

or

seven

more,

with muskets in their hands.

I had

and therefore determined

approachedthem, I

the grass, sitting among now no hopesof escaping,

to ride forward towards

in

them.

As

I

elephanthunters ; and by way of openingthe conversation, if theyhad inquired shot anything of them an ; but without returning answer, one ordered me to dismount ; and then,as if recollecting himself, waved with his hand for me rode to proceed. I accordingly when crossed a deep rivulet, past,and had with some difficulty I heard somebodyholloa ; and looking behind,saw those I had taken for elephant hunters runningafter me, and calling out I stoppeduntil theywere to me to turn back. all come up ; when theyinformed me that the king of the Foulahs had sent them on purpose to bringme, my horse, and every thing that belongedto me, to Fooladoo,and that therefore I must turn back,and go alongwith them. Without hesitating a moment, I turned round and followed them, and we travelled together near a quarter of a mile without exchanginga word; when comingto a dark placeof the wood, one of them said,in the "This Mandingo language, placewill do;" and immediately snatched my hat from my head. Though I was by no means was

hopestheywere

THE

OF

INTERIOR

201

AFRICA.

apprehension, yet I resolved to shew as few signsof fear and therefore told them, that unless my hat was as possible, returned to me, I should proceedno further. But before I had and seizing time to receive an answer, another drew his knife, cut it upon a metal button which remained upon my waistcoat, now off,and put it into his pocket. Their intentions were to obvious ; and I thoughtthat the easier theywere permitted of every thing,the less I had to fear. I therefore rob me and allowed them to search my pocketswithout resistance, which they did with the examine every part of my apparel, But exactness. most observingthat I had one scrupulous waistcoat under another, theyinsisted that I should cast them me both off; and at last, to make sure work, stripped quite of them Even my half boots (thoughthe sole of one naked. foot with a broken bridle rein),were tied on to my was minutelyinspected.Whilst theywere examiningthe plunder, I begged them, with great earnestness,to return my pocket lying compass ; but when I pointedit out to them, as it was of the banditti, the ground,one on thinkingI was about to that he would layme take it up, cocked his musket,and swore dead on the spot if I presumedto put my hand upon it. After and the remainder of them went away with my horse, this,some whether they should leave me quite stood considering naked, or from the sun. allow me something to shelter me Humanity at the worst of the two shirts, last prevailed ; theyreturned me of them and a pairof trousers ; and,as they went away, one randums threw back my hat,in the crown of which I kept my memothey did not wish probablythe reason ; and this was time looking to keep it. After theywere gone, I sat for some free of

around

me

with amazement

and

terror.

turned, nothingappearedbut danger and

myselfin the midst of rainyseason, naked and and

men

stillmore

a

I way I saw difficulty.

Whichever

vast wilderness in the

depth of

the

alone ; surrounded by savage animals, five hundred miles from the I was savage.

park's

202

nearest at

European

once

began

my

on

to

fail

me.

in

travels

All these circumstances

settlement.

recollection;and I considered

confess

I

fate

my

as

that

crowded my

spirits

certain,and that I

perish. The influence I reflected of religion,however, aided and supported me. have averted could possibly that no human prudence or foresight indeed I was a stranger in a strange present sufi'erings. my stillunder the protectingeye of that Providence land,yet I was friend. At who has condescended to call himself the stranger's this moment, painfulas my reflections w^ere, the extraordinary beauty of a small moss, in fructification, irresistibly caught my I mention this to shew from what trifling circumstances eye. the mind will sometimes derive consolation ; for though the whole plantwas I of my not largerthan the top of one fingers, could not contemplate the delicate conformation of its roots, that admiration. Can leaves, and capsula, without Being (thought I) who planted,watered, and brought to perfection, in this obscure part of the world, a thing which of so appears small importance,look with unconcern the situation and upon of creatures formed after his own sufferings image? surelynot ! had

no

but alternative,

to

lie down

and

"

Keflections

like these would

allow

despair. I started both hunger and fatigue, travelled forwards, up, and disregarding assured that relief was at hand ; and I was not disappointed. In a short time I came to a small village, of at the entrance I overtook which the two with shepherds who had come me from Kooma. much They were surprisedto see me ; for they said they never doubted that the Foulahs, when they had robbed, had murdered me. Departing from this village,we travelled over several rocky ridges,and arrived at at sunset the frontier town of the kingdom of Handing. Sibidooloo, not

me

to

THE

INTERIOR

OF

CHAPTEE Government

203

AFRICA.

XIX.

of Handing The Author s receptionhy the Mansa, of Sibidooloo, who takes measures or chief man forthe recovery Great to Wonda ofhis horse and effectsThe Author removes and its afflicting The Author recovers scarcity, consequences "

"

"

"

his horse and

clothes Presents his horse "

prosecuteshis journeyto Kamalia town

The Author

"

who proposes a

to

_L

HE

s

kind

caravan

"

remain

and

accompany

s

round

me,

When and

and

of that

Karfa.

high rocky hills. It and duringthe frequent wars horses, Foulahs,and Mandingoes,has never enemy.

account

;

and determination sickness,

of Sibidooloo is situated in

town

with

an

Some

"

the Mansa

reception hyKarfa Taura,a Slatee, with Gambia in the next dryseason

go to the ofslaves The Author to

to

is

fertilevalley, rounded sur-

a

accessible for scarcely

between once

the Bambarrans, been plundered by

I entered the town, the

follow^ed me

into the

peoplegathered baloon,Avhere I was

who is here called Mansa, to the Dooty or chief man, presented which usually it appearedto me signifies king. Nevertheless, that the government of Manding was sort of republic, or a rather an oligarchyevery town havinga particular Mansa, and the chief power of the state,in the last resort,beinglodgedin the assemblyof the whole body. I related to the Mansa the circumstances of my having been robbed of my horse and confirmed by the two apparel shepherds. storywas ; and my He continued smokinghis pipe all the time I was speaking ; but I had no sooner finished, than,takinghis pipe from his "

park's

204

travels

in

mouth, and tossing up the sleeve of his coat, with an indignant restored air, Sit down," said he, you shall have everything "

"

and then

turningto an attendant, Give the white man," said he, a draughtof water ; and and inform of the morninggo over the hills, with the firstlight that a poor white man, the king of the Dooty of Bammakoo has been robbed by the kingof Fooladoo's Bambarra's stranger, people." I littleexpected, in my forlorn condition, with a to meet who could thus feel for my sufferings. I heartily thanked man for his kindness,and acceptedhis invitation to the Mansa

to you

"

I have

sworn

it ;" "

"

"

remain

with

him

conducted into

until the return

of the messenger. I was victuals sent me ; but the

hut,and had some crowd of peoplewhich assembled to see me, all of whom miserated comand vented imprecations againstthe my misfortunes, from sleeping until past midnight. Two me Foulahs,prevented of my horse daysI remained without hearingany intelligence clothes; and as there was or of at this time a great scarcity all over this part of the to famine, even provisions, approaching country,I was unwiUingto trespassany further on the Mansa's and beggedpermission to depart to the next village. generosity, he told me that I might Findingme very anxious to proceed, called Wonda, where he hoped I would go as far as a town remain a few days, until I heard some account of my horse, etc. I departedaccordingly the next morning, the 28th, on and stopped at some small villages for refreshment. I was presentedat one of them with a dish which I had never before It was seen. composedof the blossoms or antherce of the maize, stewed in milk and water. It is eaten onlyin time of great scarcity.On the 30th, about noon, I arrived at Wonda, a small town The

a

with

a

mosque,

and

surrounded

by

a

high wall. capacities

Mansa, who was a Mahomedan, acted in two as chief magistrate of the town, and schoolmaster to the children. He kept his school in an desired to open shed,where I was "

INTERIOR

THE

OF

205

AFRICA.

take up my lodging, until some should arrive from account Sibidooloo concerning my horse and clothes;for though the horse was of littleuse to me, yet the few clothes were essential. The sun

littleraiment upon me could neither protectme from the by day,nor the dews and musquitoes by night; indeed,my

shirt was

onlyworn thin,like a pieceof muslin,but withal that I was was so very dirty, happy to embrace an opportunity of washingit ; which having done,and spreadit upon a bush, I sat down naked,in the shade,until it was dry. Ever since the commencement of the rainy season, my health had been greatly the decline. I had often been affected with on of fever ; and from the time of leaving Bamslight paroxysms increased. As I was makoo, the symptoms had considerably in the manner the fever returned with such described, sitting not

violence that it very much alarmed medicine to stop its progress, nor no

me

;

the

more

so,

as

I had

that hope of obtaining and attention which my situation required. care 1 remained at Wonda nine days,duringwhich time I the regular return of the fever every day. And experienced distress to conceal my thoughI endeavoured as much as possible and frequently from my landlord, laydown the w^hole day,out in a corn of his sight, conscious how burdensome I was to field, in a time of such greatscarcity him and his family ; yet I found that he was apprizedof my situation; and one morning,as I feignedto be asleepby the fire,he observed to his wife that and chargeable to find me a very troublesome theywere likely guest, for that,in my present sicklystate, they should be for the sake of their good name, to maintain me until obliged, I recovered

or

any

died.

felt at this time of provisions was certainly scarcity circumstance as the following severely by the poor people, convinced me. painfully Every eveningduringmy stay

The most most

I observed five

or

six

receive each of them

women a

come

certain

to

the Mansa's

of quantity

corn.

house,and As I knew

206

how

PARK

IN

S TRAVELS

at this

valuable this article was

I inquired of juncture,

these poor women when the harvest

whether he maintained

the Mansa

from pure

should be bounty,or expecteda return to a fine in. Observe that boy,"said he, (pointing gathered child about five years of age); "his mother has sold him to for herself and the rest of her family. for forty me days' provision manner." Good I have boughtanother boy in the same God, thoughtI, what must a mother suffer before she sells her own child ! I could not get this melancholy out of my mind, subject returned for their allowance, when the women and the next night, I desired the boy to pointout to me his mother,which he did. She was much emaciated,but had nothingcruel or savage in "

her countenance

;

and

and talked to her

came

when son

she had

with

as

received her corn, she much cheerfulness as if she

,

had stillbeen under her

Sept.6th.

care.

peoplearrived from Sibidooloo, bringing with them my horse and clothes ; but I found that my pocket broken to pieces. This was which I a greatloss, compass was could not repair. Sept.7th. As my horse was grazingnear the brink of a the ground gave way, and he fellin. The well was about well, ten feet diameter, and so very deep,that when I saw my horse in the water, I thoughtit was him. to save snorting impossible The inhabitants of the village, however,immediately assembled, and havingtied together of withes,*theylowered a a number "

Two

"

down

into the well,who body of the horse ; and the man

fastened those withes round

the

people, havingfirstdrawn up the took hold of the withes,and to man, surprise pulledthe my horse out with the greatest The poor animal was now facility. reduced to a mere and the roads were skeleton, passable, scarcely or else fullof mud and water ; I therefore beingeither very rocky, found it impracticable to travel with him and any farther, was happy to leave him in the hands of one who I thought *

From

a

plantcalled kahha^that

climbs like a vine upon the trees.

THE

would

take

INTEKIOR

of him.

care

and desired landlord,

him

present to the Mansa

of

could make my

I to

OF

207

AFRICA.

accordingly presentedhim send my

saddle and

to my

bridle as

a

Sibidooloo, being the only return I him for havingtaken so much trouble in procuring

horse and clothes. I

thoughtit necessary, sick as I was, to take leave of landlord. On the morningof Sept.8th,when I my hospitable about to depart, he presented with his spear as a token was me of remembrance, and a leather bag to contain my clothes. Having converted my half-boots into sandals,I travelled with that nightat a village called Ballanti. On more ease, and slept the 9th 1 reached Nemacoo of the village ; but the Mansa thoughtfitto make me sup upon the cameleon's dish. By way of apology, however,he assured me the next morningthat the of corn such that he could not possibly allow me was scarcity I could not accuse him of unkindness, as all the people any. actually appearedto be starving. Sept.10th. It rained hard all day,and the peoplekept themselves in their huts. In the afternoon I was visited by a pecting Negro,named Modi Lemina Taura,a great trader,who susand promised distress, broughtme some victuals, my to conduct me to his house at Kinyetothe day following. Sept.11th. I departedfrom Nemacoo, and arrived at Kinyeto in the evening; but having hurt my ankle in the way, it swelled and inflamed so much that I could neither walk, set my foot to the ground the next day,without greatpain. nor this, My landlord observing kindlyinvited me to stop with him remained at his house until the a few days; and I accordingly and could walk with 14th ; by which time I feltmuch relieved, the helpof a stafi*. I now set out thankingmy landlord for his great care and attention;and being accompaniedby a for the same travelling way, I proceeded young man, who was the Mansa of well-cultivated district, a beautiful and Jerijang, chief of any in Manding. which is reckoned the most powerful now

"

"

park's

208

travels

in

the 15th,I reached Dosita,a largetown, where I staid and day on account of the rain ; but continued very sickly, dehrious in the night. On the 17th,I set out for slightly

On one was

of goldare Mansia,a considerabletown, where small quantities and my strength collected. The road led over a highrockyhill, that before I could reach much exhausted, so were and spirits forced to lie down three times,being the top of the hillI was very faintand

sickly.I reached

of this town

Mansa

had

Mansia in the afternoon.

the character of

The

being very inhospitable

for my supper, but demanded somethingin return ; and when I assured him that he told me I had nothing of value in my possession, (asifin ;

he,however, sent

white

me

a

littlecorn

skin should not

that jest)

my

lies. He

then showed

me

defend

the hut wherein I

me was

if I told him to

but sleep,

sayingthat it would be returned to me in when joinedto the circumstance, trifling rather suspicious of character I had heard of the man, made me desired one of the inhabitants of the him; and I privately to sleep in the same hut with who had a bow and quiver, place, I heard somebody approachthe door, About midnight, me. into the hut,I the moonlightstrike suddenly and observing the thresstarted up, and saw a man hold. over stepping cautiously snatched up the Negro'sbow and quiver, I immediately of which made the man withdraw ; and my comthe rattling panion lookingout, assured me that it was the Mansa himself, and advised me to keepawake until the morning. I closed the door, and placeda largepieceof wood behind it,and was when visit, wonderingat this unexpected somebodypressedso hard againstthe door,that the Negro could scarcely keep it shut. But when I called to him to open the door,the intruder

took away my spear, the morning. This

ran

off as before.

Sept.16th."

As

it

the Negro,at my light, and broughtaway my spear. request,went to the Mansa's house, He told me that the Mansa was asleep ; and lestthis inhospitable soon

as

was

THE

chief should devise out two

means

INTERIOR

OF

209

AFRICA.

to detain me,

he advised

to set

me

did ; and about awake, which I immediately o'clock reached KamaUa, a small town, situated at the bottom where the inhabitants collect gold in of some rockyhills,

before he

was

The considerable quantities.

Bushreens

here live apart from scattered manner at a

the Kafirs, and have built their huts in a short distance from the town. They have

placeset apart for performing their devotions in,to which theygive the name of missura than a or mosque ; but it is in fact nothingmore of ground made level, and surrounded with the square piece trunks of trees,havinga small projection towards the east,where the Marraboo,or priest, stands,when he calls the peopleto Mosquesof this construction are very common prayers. among neither walls nor roof,they the converted Negroes; but,having the Bushreens can onlybe used in fine weather. When it rains, performtheir devotions in their huts. On a

my

Bushreen

arrival at Kamalia,I was conducted to the house of named Karfa Taura, the brother of him to whose

I was hospitality

indebted at

with cofSe of slaves, the

Gambia, as

in sitting to

Arabic

a

his

soon

a as

He

Kinyeto.

view to sell them

was

to the

the rains should be

over.

a collecting

Europeanson I found him

who baloon,surrounded by several Slatees,

jointhe cofifle.He

was

with book,and inquired,

Beinganswered

in the

a

readingto them

from

if I understood smile,

posed proan

it ?

he desired one of the Slatees to negative, fetch the littlecurious book,which had been broughtfrom the this small volume,I was west country. On opening surprised and dehghtedto find it our Book of Common Prayer; and Karfa expressed greatjoyto hear that I could read it ; for some who had seen of the Slatees, the Europeansupon the coast, the colour of my skin (whichwas become very now observing and yellow from sickness) long beard, raggedclothes, my to admit that I was extreme a white unwilling poverty,were I was that theysuspected Arab in some man, and told Karfa, p

pakk's

210

travels

in

that I could read this disguise.Karfa,however, perceiving book, had no doubt concerningme, and kindlypromised me At the

his power. every assistancein to impossible me, that it was

months

yet to

come,

said,layin the way.

He

many

himself for Gambia

as

cross no

as

same

he informed

time

the Jallonka wilderness for

less than

he eightrapidrivers,

added,that he intended as

soon

the rivers

were

to

set

out

and the fordable,

him. He burnt,and advised me to stay and accompany of the natives could not travel remarked,that when a caravan to throughthe country,it was idle for a singlewhite man admitted that such an attempt was an attempt it. I readily grass

act

of rashness ; but I assured him that I had now I must to support myself, for havingno money

no

tive, alterna-

either beg

from placeto place, for or perish subsistence, by traveUing with great earnestness,and looked at me Karfa now want. victuals of the country if I could eat the common inquired

my

"

he had

me assuring

that if I would

never

remain

before

seen

a

white

He

man.

with him until the rains

were

-

added, over, he

the meantime, and a hut to to the sleepin ; and that after he had conducted me in safety Gambia,I mightthen make him what return I thoughtproper. I

would

asked him He

plentyof victuals in

giveme

if the value

answered

in the

the huts to be delivered

of

him. primeslave would satisfy and immediately ordered one of affirmative, one

swept for my

accommodation.

Thus

was

I

of this benevolent Negro from a care by the friendly situation trulydeplorable.Distress and famine pressedhard the gloomy wilds of Jallonkadoo, upon me ; I had before me where the travellersees no habitation for five successive days. I had observed at a distance the rapid course of the river I had almost marked Kokoro. out the placewhere I was when this friendly doomed, I thought,to perish, Negro stretched out his hospitable hand for my relief. In the hut which was appropriated for me, I was provided with a mat to sleep on, an earthen jarfor holding water, and a

THE

OF

INTERIOR

211

AFRICA.

small calabash to drink out of ; and Karfa sent me from his own two meals a day,and ordered his slaves to supplyme dwelling with firewood and water. of

Karfa,nor

But I found that neither the kindness

sort of

could put a stop accommodation, to the fever which weakened me, and which became every day more to conceal alarming. I endeavoured as much as possible as I was my distress; but on the third day after my arrival, I found myselfso goingwith Karfa to visitsome of his friends, faint that 1 could scarcely walk, and before we reached the I staggered and fell into a pitfrom which the clayhad place, any

been taken to build console

with the

me

of the huts.

one

hopes of

that if I would not walk out

a

Karfa

endeavoured

to

speedyrecovery, assuring me,

in the wet, I should

soon

be well.

I determined to follow his advice, and confine myselfto my hut ; but was stilltormented with the fever, and my health continued to be in

a

very

state precarious

for five ensuing weeks.

times Some-

I could crawl out of the

hut,and sit a few hours in the unable to rise, and passedthe open air ; at other times I was I was hours in a very gloomy and solitary manner. lingering seldom visited by any person except my benevolent landlord, who came dailyto inquireafter my health. When the rains and the countrybegan to grow dry,the became less frequent, but in

debihtated

fever left me, stand scarcely

and upright,

could carry my

mat

so

a

condition that I could

that I with great diflSculty to the shade of a tamarind tree at a short it

was

and smell of the corn-fields, to enjoythe refreshing distance, delight my eyes with a prospectof the country. I had the at lengthto find myselfin a state of convalescence, pleasure of the towards which the benevolent and simple manners contributed. Negroes,and the perusalof Karfa's littlevolume, greatly

meantime, many of the Slatees who resided at Kamalia having spent all their money, and become in a great beheld me with an measure dependent upon Karfa's hospitality, In

the

pake's

212

TRAVELS

IN

ridiculous and

stories trifling And in the beginningof Karfa's esteem. arrived from with five slaves, December, a Sera-WooUi Slatee, Sego. This man, too, spreada number of malicious reports attention to them, and continued me concerning ; but Karfa paidno kindness as formerly.As I was the same to show me with the slaves which this Slatee had one day conversing victuals. I of them beggedme to givehim some one brought, to give. He replied, told him I was a stranger,and had none I gave you victuals when you was hungry. Have you forgot But (added who broughtyou milk at Karankalla ? the man T^ then upon w.y legs I not he, with a sigh)the irons were recollectedhim, and beggedsome groundnuts from immediately He told Karfa to givehim as a return for his former kindness. the day afterthe that he had been taken by the Bambarrans me battle at Joka, and sent to Sego,where he had been purchased him down to Kajaaga. by his presentmaster, who was carrying eye of envy, and in to lessen me

invented many

"

Three

more

of these slaves

w^ere

from Kaarta, and

one

from

of war. Wassela,allof them prisoners They stoppedfour days then taken to Bala,where theyremained at Kamalia,and were and the grass burnt. until the river Kokoro was fordable, of December Karfa proposedto complete beginning his purchaseof slaves, and for this purpose collected all the debts which were owing to him in his own country. And on the 19th,beingaccompaniedby three Slatees, he departedfor Kancaba,a largetown on the banks of the Niger,and a great In the

slave-market.

of the slaves who

Most

from Bambarra

for

are

sold at Kancaba

Mansong,to avoid the expense and at Sego,commonly sends dangerof keepingall his prisoners them in small parties to be sold at the differenttrading towns ; and is much resorted to by merchants, as Kancaba well it is alw^ays which are sent thither up the Nigerin canoes. with slaves, supplied When Karfa departedfrom KamaUa, he proposedto return in the course of a month, and duringhis absence I was leftto the come

;

INTERIOR

THE

of

care

good

a

of

people

young

Being

left

it

was

and

perfect

more

information African was

;

of

my

repetition

related,

as

and

the

I

the

to

shall

those

occasion

country,

and

arose,

to

inquiries,

in

and

ivory,

lay

of

the

all

of Such

as

readers far

at

stay

my

my

my

for

journey

slaves. of

observations

a

branches

and

avoiding,

narrative

acquiring

collect

to

before

on

possible

was

important

and the

of

menting aug-

made

perilous

remainder

the

circumstances

it

likewise

gold,

proceed

now

than

those

of

already

and

own

my

neglected

had

transient

for

during

be I

endeavoured

indulge

to

to

natives, a

trade

researches of

the

concerning

employment

my

result

of I

not

the

course

could

commerce,

Kamalia

a

the

leisure

at

of

of

country. I

sclioolmaster

as

observations

productions

in

the

through

the

knowledge

obtain

to

me

acted

opportunity

an

and

and

alone,

extending

climate

who

Bushreen

Kamalia.

now

reflections,

the

old

213

AFRICA.

OF

as

which

journey.

the I

can, were

214

"

park's

ik

travels

XX.

CHAPTER

Of

Winds

Vegetable productions sition PopulationGeneral observationson the character and dispoaccount of their of the Mandingoes ; and a summary their marriages, etc, and habits of life, manners the climate and

seasons

"

"

"

"

X

whole of my route, both in going and returning, having been confined to a tract of countrybounded nearlyby the 12th HE

the reader must imaginethat I of latitude, parallels hot ; but nowhere found the climate in most places extremely at did I feel the heat so intense and oppressive as in the camp Benowm, of which mention has been made in a former place. the air is at In some parts,where the countryascends into hills, cool ; yet none of the districtswhich I alltimes comparatively traversed could properly About the be called mountainous. middle of June, the hot and sultry by atmosphereis agitated with thunder violent gustsof wind (called accompanied tornadoes), and rain. These usher in what is denominated the rainy of November. During season, w^hich continues until the month time diurnal the this rains are very heavy,and the prevailing winds are from the south-west. The termination of the rainy is likewise attended with violent tornadoes ; after which, season the wind shifts to the north-east, and continues to blow from that quarterduringthe rest of the year. When the wind sets in from the north-east it produces a wonderful changein the face of the country. The grass soon becomes dry and withered ; the rivers subside very rapidly, and of the trees shed their leaves. About this period is commany

and 15th

THE

INTERIOR

215

AFRICA.

OF

felt the

a liarmattan, dry and parchingwind, blowing from the north-east, and accompaniedby a thick smoky haze, throughwhich the sun appears of a dull red colour. This wind, in passing the greatdesert of Sahara, over a very strong acquires attraction for humidity, and parchesup everything exposedto its current. It is,however,reckoned very salutary, particularly who generally theirhealth duringitsconto Europeans, recover tinuance. I experienced immediate relieffrom sickness, both at Dr. Laidley's and at Kamalia, duringthe harmattan. Indeed, the air, that duringthe rainyseason, is so loaded with moisture, that is not close to the clothes, shoes,trunks,and everything become damp and mouldy,and the inhabitants may be said fire, to live in a sort of vapour bath ; but this dry wind braces up which were the solids, before relaxed, givesa cheerful flow of and is even Its ill efiects are, to respiration. spirits, pleasant that it produces and afflicts chapsin the lips, many of the natives

monly

with

sore

eyes.

the grass is sufficiently dry,the Negroesset it on this practice fire; but in Ludamar, and other Moorish countries, is not allowed ; for it is upon the withered stubble that the Moors Whenever

feed their cattle until the return of the rains. the grass in Manding exhibits a the middle of the nightI could

scene

The

burning

of terrificgrandeur. In

and mountains,as plains and the far as my eye could reach,variegated with lines of fire, lightreflected on the sky made the heavens appear in a blaze. in every direction; In the day time pillars of smoke were seen while the birds of prey were observed hoveringround the conflagration, and other and pouncingdown upon the snakes, lizards, This which attemptedto escape from the flames. reptiles, annual burningis soon followed by a fresh and sweet verdure, healthful and and the country is thereby rendered more pleasant. of the vegetable Of the most remarkable and important ductions proand mention has already been made, theyare nearly see

the

park's

216 the

travels

in

in all the districtsthroughwhich

same

however, that althoughmany observable, roots

which

Africa,yet I

grow never

India

in the West saw,

in any

or the sugar-cane, the coffee, known that theywere inquiry

part of

passed. It is of the edible species found in are Islands, either the my journey,

tree ;

cocoa

I

nor

could I learn

the natives.

on

The

pine-apple, of and the thousand other delicious fruits which the industry the bounties of nature) has broughtto civilized man (improving climates of America, are in the tropical such great, perfection I observed, unknown. here equally indeed,a few orange and banana trees near the mouth of the Gambia ; but whether they were or were plantedthere by some of the formerly indigenous, learn. I suspectthat they I could not positively white traders, introduced by the Portuguese. were originally it appearedto me that the Concerning propertyin the soil, lands in native woods were considered as belonging to the king, or (wherethe government was not monarchical)to the state. When

to

any individual of free condition had the

means

of cultivating

he appliedto possessed, actually the chief man of the district, who allowed him an extension of not brought on condition of forfeitureifthe lands were territory, into cultivationby a givenperiod.The condition beingfulfilled, the soil became vested in the possessor ; and for aughtthat appearedto me, descended to his heirs. The population, the extent and fertility however,considering more

land than he

and of the soil,

the

ease

with which lands

very great in the countries which

are

I visited.

obtained,is not I found

many

extensive and beautifuldistricts, destituteof inhabitants ; entirely

and, in general,the borders of the different kingdoms were either very thinly or deserted. Many places peopled, entirely likewise unfavourable to population, are from beingunhealthful. The swampy banks of the Gambia, the Senegal, and other rivers towards the coast,are of this description. Perhapsit is this account chiefly on that the interiorcountries abound more

THE

INTERIOR

OP

AFRICA.

with inhabitants than the maritime districts; for allthe nations that fell under

217

Negro

observation, though divided into a number of petty independent states,subsist chiefly by the same live nearlyin the same means, temperature,and possess a wonderful similarity of disposition. The Mandingoes, in particular, cheerful in their are race a dispositions ; very gentle and fond of flattery. credulous, inquisitive, Perhapsthe simple, defect in their character was that insurmountable most prominent which the reader must have observed to prevail propensity in all classes of them, to steal from me the few efiectsI was of. For this part of their conduct no complete possessed justificatio be offered, because theft is a crime in their own can estimation ; and it must be observed that theyare not habitually and generally of it towards each other. This,however, guilty is an important circumstance in mitigation ; and before we nounce prothem a more than it depravedpeople any other, were well to consider whether the lower order of peoplein any part of Europe would have acted, with under similar circumstances, greater honestytowards a stranger,than the Negroes acted towards me. that the laws of the It must not be forgotten that every one at was no protection; country afforded me with impunity that some to rob me liberty part of ; and finally, my

effects were

of

my

great value,in the estimation of the

as

Negroes,as pearlsand of a European. Let us

diamonds suppose

have been in the eyes black merchant of Hindostan

would a

found his way into the centre of England,with a box of jewelsat his back,and that the laws of the kingdom afforded

to

have

would be, not that but that any the strangerwas robbed of any part of his riches, tion, left for a second depredator.Such, on sober reflecpart was him

no

security ; in

such

a

case, the wonder

judgment I have formed concerningthe pilfering withstand of the Mandingo Negroes towards myself. Notdisposition I do not consider I was so great a suffererby it, that their natural sense or extinguished; of justice was perverted is the

park's

218

in

travels

onlyfor the moment overpowered no common which it required temptation

it was

the other hand,as

On

in their nature

"

some

it allowing

by

the

of a strength

virtue to resist.

counterbalance to this depravity

to be such

"

it is

for impossible

me

forgetthe disinterested charityand tender solicitudewith of Sego which many of these poor heathens (fromthe sovereign

to

the poor women their cottages when to

who

received

me

at differenttimes into

of hunger)sympathised perishing buted and contrirelieved my distresses, in my with me sufferings, however,is perhaps to my safety.This acknowledgment, due to the female part of the nation. Among more particularly the men, as the reader must have seen, my reception, though kind,was sometimes otherwise. It varied according generally I made application. to the various tempers of those to whom The hardness of avarice in some, and the blindness of bigotry had closed up the avenues to compassion in others, ; but I do instance of hardheartedness towards me ^ot recollect a single I In all my in the women. wanderingsand wretchedness, found them uniformly kind and compassionate truly ; and I can said before Mr. Ledyard has eloquently say, as my predecessor To a woman, I never addressed myselfin the language : me of decencyand friendship, without receiving a decent and friendly If I was hungry or thirsty, wet answer. or sick, they did not like the men, to performa generous action. In so hesitate, free and so kind a manner did they contribute to my relief, that if I was and if hungry dry I drank the sweetest draught, I

was

"

"

I eat the

coarsest

morsel,with

a

double relish."

reasonable to suppose that the soft and amiable surely manifested sympathyof nature, which was thus spontaneously is displayed in my distress, towards me by these poor people, much occasion requires, more as towards persons of strongly nation and neighbourhood, their own when the and especially of their compassion endeared to them by the ties of are objects the maternal affection (neither consanguinity.Accordingly, It is

THE

INTERIOR

OF

219

AFRICA.

diverted by the solicitudes nor of suppressed by the restraints, civilizedlife) is everywhere them,and creates conspicuous among a correspondent return of tenderness in the child. An illustration of this has been givenin page 39. Strike me," said my The same ment sentiattendant, but do not curse my mother." I found universally and observed in all parts to prevail, "

"

of Africa that the greatestafirontwhich could be oJBFeredto Negro was to reflecton her who gave him birth. It is not

strangethat this sense

a

of filial duty and affection

the Negroes should be less ardent towards the father ^mong than the mother. The system of polygamy,while it weakens the father's attachment, it among the children of by dividing differentwives,concentrates

all the mother's

tenderness jealous I perceived offspring.

of her own point the protection with greatsatisfaction, too,that the maternal soHcitude extended not onlyto the growth and security in of the person, but also, to the improvement of the mind of the infant ; a certain degree, for one of the first lessons in which the Mandingo women instruct their children, is the practiceof truth. The reader will probablyrecollectthe case of the unhappy mother,whose son murdered by the Moorish banditti at Funingkedy, was p. 84. Her onlyconsolation in her uttermost the reflection was distress, that the poor boy,in the course of his blameless life, had told a lie. Such testimony from a fond mother, on such never must have operated the youthful an on occasion, powerfully part of the surrounding tribute of at once a spectators. It was and a lesson to the living. to the deceased, praise The Negro women suckle their children until theyare able Three years' to w^alk of themselves. nursingis not uncommon ; and duringthis periodthe husband devotes his whole attention it is owing,I presume, To this practice to his other wives. Few of each wife is seldom very numerous. that the family to

one

"

"

women

have

more

infant is able to

than five

or

six children.

to walk,it is permitted

run

As

soon

as

an

about with great

park's

220

in

travels

solicitousto preserve it from accidents. A littlepractice soon fallsand other trifling slight and experience acts the enables the child to take care of itself, The mother is not

freedom.

part of a to

As

nurse.

spincotton, and

over

in

theyadvance to

the girls are life, taught

beat corn, and are instructed in other the boys are employedin the labours of

domestic duties ; and the field. Both sexes, whether Bushreens circumcised. the age of puberty, are not considered by the Kafirs so much as

ceremony,

a

matter

or

on Kafirs, attaining

This

of convenience

is painful operation in the light of a religious and utility. They have,

notion that it contributes to render the indeed,a superstitious

marriagestate prolific.The operationis performedupon several young time ; all of whom are empted expeopleat the same every sort of labour for two

from

months

afterwards.

called Solimana. Duringthis periodtheyform a society They visit the towns in the neighbourhood, and villages where they dance and sing, and are well treated by the inhabitants. I had frequently, in the course of my journey, of observed parties this description, but theywere all males. I had,however,an of seeing a female SoUmana^ at Kamaha. opportunity of the celebration, In the course it frequently happensthat of the young

some

fancyto

one

any

women

of

get married.

them, it is

a

considered

man

takes

a

absolutely herself. overture to the girl the parentsconcerning the

not

necessary that he should make an The first objectis to agree with

If

as

to be

given them for the loss of the company and services of theirdaughter. The value of two slavesis a common unless the girlis thoughtvery handsome, in which case price, the parents will raise their demand If the very considerably. lover is rich enough,and willing to givethe sum demanded,he recompense

then communicates is by no

it,and as

an

means

eat

a

earnest

his wishes to the damsel ; but her consent necessary to the match ; for if the parentsagree to few kolla-nuts, which are presented by the suitor of the

the bargain,

young

ladymust

either have

the

OF

INTERIOR

THE

221

AFRICA.

of their

for she cannot continue unmarried, or choice, afterwards be givento another. If the parentsshould attempt it,the lover is then authorised, by the laws of the country,to man

seize upon the girl When the day for celebrating as his slave. the nuptials is fixed on, a select number of peopleare invited be presentat the wedding; a bullock or goat is killed, and greatplentyof victuals dressed for the occasion. As soon as it to

is

dark,the bride is conducted

of company assistin arranging the wedding-dress, which is always

matrons

white cotton, and is put on bride from head to foot. mat

into

in such Thus

a

hut,where

a

manner

as

a

to

conceal the

she arrayed,

is seated upon a in the middle of the floor, and the old women selves placethemin

a

circle round

her.

They

then

give her

a

seriesof

and pointout, with greatpropriety, what oughtto instructions, be her future conduct in life. This scene of instruction, ever, howwho is frequently interrupted by girls, with songs and dances, which gaietythan delicacy.While

are

rather more

the company remarkable fortheir

amuse

the bride remains within the hut

the women, the bridegroomdevotes his attention to the tributin guestsof both sexes, who assemble without doors,and by diswith

among

and seeing small presentsof kolla-nuts, partakesof the good cheer which is provided, them

that every one he contributes much

of the evening. generalhilarity When spend the remainder of supper is ended,the company the night in singingand dancing, and seldom separateuntil conducted daybreak. About midnight,the bride is privately into the hut which is to be her future residence ; by the women pany. and the bridegroom, a signal given,retiresfrom his comupon The new-married couple, however, are alwaysdisturbed the towards morning by the women, who assemble to inspect of the ancient Hebrews, sheet (according to the manners nuptial and dance round it. This ceremony as recorded in Scripture), is the marriageconis thoughtindispensably sidered necessary, nor as

to

the

valid without it.

park's

222

travels

in

observed,whether Negroes,as hath been frequently of wives. The MahoMahomedan or Pagan, allow a plurality confined to four ; and as the medans alone are by their religion for each,he requires from husband commonly pays a greatprice The

all of them

the utmost

deference and

submission,and

treats

companions. They have, and each in rotation however,the management of domestic afiairs, and has the care of dressing is mistress of the household, But though the female slaves, etc. the victuals, overlooking their of greatauthority over the African husbands are possessed wives,I did not observe that in generaltheytreat them with position that mean in their disneither did I perceive jealousy cruelty, the Moors. which is so prevalent They permit among and of all their wives to partake publicdiversions, this is seldom abused ; for thoughthe Negro women are indulgence theyare by no means very cheerful and frank in their behaviour, infidelity givento intrigue.I believethat instances of conjugal When the wives quarrel not common. are themselves, among of their situation, must a circumstance which,from the nature frequently happen,the husband decides between them, and tisement chassometimes finds it necessary to administer a littlecorporal before tranquillity be restored. But if any one of can the ladies complains that her husband to the chief of the town has unjustly to punishedher, and shewn an undue partiality other of his wives,the afiairis broughtto a public trial. some In these palavers^ however^ which are conducted chiefly by married men, I was informed that the complaint of the wife is not and the complainant alwaysconsidered in a very serious light, herself is sometimes convicted of strifeand contention, and left without remedy. If she murmurs at the decision of the court, the magic rod of Murribo Jumbo soon puts an end to the business. The children of the Mandingoes named after are not always their relations, in consequence of some but frequently remarkable occurrence. Thus, my landlord at Kamalia was called Karfa^a them

more

Kke

hired servants than

THE

word

OF

one

of his brothers.

he

born

was

Other

bad

223

AFRICA.

to replace signifying ; because

the death of of

INTERIOR

after shortly are descriptive

names

as Modi, a good man ; Fadihha^ qualities, father of the town," etc : indeed,the very names of their in them, as Sibidooloo, the towns have something descriptive of ciboa trees ;" Kenneyeto^victualshere ;"i"c"si^a, "lift town to be givenby way of reproach, as your spoon." Others seem wash a crocodile;" Karankalla, no cup to drink BammakoOj from,"etc. A child is named when it is seven or eightdays old. The ceremony commences by shavingthe infant'shead ; and a dish called Dega,made of poundedcorn and sour milk,is for the guests. If the parentsare rich, a sheep or goat prepared The feast is called Ding Tcoon he, the is commonly added. child's head shaving." During my stay at Kamalia I was presentat four different feasts of this kind,and the ceremony in each,whether the child belonged the same to a Bushreen was The schoolmaster, who officiatedas priest on these or a Kafir. first said a long and who is necessarily a Bushreen, occasions, the dega, duringwhich every person present took prayer over After hold of the brim of the calabash with his righthand.

good

or

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

this the schoolmaster took the child in his arms, and said a of solicitedthe blessing second prayer, in which he repeatedly When this child,and upon all the company. ended, he whispereda few sentences in the child's prayer was after which he pronounced ear, and spat three times in its face, its name aloud,and returned the infant to the mother. This partof the ceremony beingended,the father of the child divided of which he distributedto the degainto a number of balls, one then made if any perwas son every person present. And inquiry in the town sick it beingusual in such was dangerously which is of the dega^ to send the party a largeportion cases thoughtto possess greatmedical virtues.* God

upon

the

"

*

the children Soon after baptism,

in skin,

a

manner

what resembling

are

marked

in differentpartsof the

in the Soutli Sea Islands. is called tattooing

park's

224

clan

or

hkewise

has

name,

and

powerful.

hontongs

which

numerous

service the

importance he

when

addressed

is

Salutations

meet, the

are

Kafirs

which

have

or

to

that

effect.

at

different

times

The the first

general person

the

of

pronouncing

E

the

day,

salutes, word

or

are

ver

th of

is

of

is

much

th grea

himself

else

marJiaha^

"

and

general

upoi

flatterec

signify,

repeat my

to

repeat the

friend.

the;

use

amon^

etc., are

you

which

good

somo,

is

when

Anawari,

salutations

Ening

to

other,

most

sent

likewise as

each

in

ning

salutations

all

them

he

fami"

parts

plumes

clan,

meaning, are

of

to

those

"

same

to

the

but

;

There

answer

who

Negroes

paeretto

nearly

his

the

enumerate

diflferent

Negro

every

of

to

many

prop(

hontong.

the

observed

Ahhe

are

as

his

by

in

own

families

these

impossible

of

antiquity

among

always

is

his

denote

to

of

found

for

;

the

or

It

knowledge

traveller

the

to

besides

surname,

Some

are

the

though

country,

or

belongs.

he

in

individual,

every

hontong,

a

which

to

various

Negroes

the

Among

travels

are

all well. usee

morning, the

etc

kontong

salutation

o

o

itself

THE

INTERIOR

OF

\

AFRICA.

227

Si

CHAPTER

XXI.

continued Their notionsin respect ofthe Mandingoes and the figure bodies, of the earth Their of the planetary in a future Their diseases and belief state religious opinions, and methods of treatment Their funeral ments, amuseceremonies, etc. diet, arts,manufactures, occupations,

"^he account

"

"

"

"

L HE Mandingoes, the Negroesin general, have and,I believe, method of dividing time. They calculatethe years 0 artificial of rainyseasons. the year into They portion y the number The day they suns. wons, and reckon the daysby so many and evening ivide into morning, mid-day, ; and further subivide it,when necessary, by pointing in the to the sun's place of some I frequently of them what became eavens. enquired f the sun and whether we should see the duringthe night, in the morning; but I found that sun or a difierentone ame as bey considered the question subject very childish. The ppearedto them as placedbeyondthe reach of human investiformed any nor a conjecture, :ation indulged ; theyhad never about the matter. her form, The moon, by varying ypothesis as

more

he

new

attracted their attention. which

On

the firstappearance

of

the theylook upon to be newlycreated, as well as Mahomedans,say a short jprayer; and ^agannatives, bis seems to be the only visible adoration which the Kafirs fferup to the SupremeBeing. This prayer is pronouncedin whisper the partyholdingup his hands before his face ; its is to (asI have been assured by many difierentpeople) "urport the existence of eturn thanks to God for his kindness through moon,

"

,

Q

park's

224

^

and to solicita continuation of his favour

pastmoon,

that of the

new

hands,and rub the

At the

one.

them

This

prevailed among

which

during

conclusion, theyspitupon their

their faces.

over

ceremony

same

in

travels

seems

to be

nearly

the heathens in the

daysof Job.* however, is paid to the changesof this attention,

Great

in its monthlycourse ; and it is thoughtvery unlucky luminary, in the last or any other work of consequence, to begina journey whether of the sun or moon, is supposed quarter. An eclipse, to be effectedby witchcraft. The stars are very little regarded; and the whole studyof astronomy appears to them as a useless and attended to by such persons onlyas deal in magic. pursuit, Their notions of geographyare equally puerile. They the termination of imaginethat the world is an extended plain, which no it being,they say, overhung eye has discovered with clouds and darkness. They describe the sea as a large "

river of salt water,

the farther shore of which is situated a

on

countrycalled Tohaubo doo

" "

the land of the white

people."

doo,theydescribe another country, is inhabited by cannibals of gigantic which they allege size, This country they call Jong sang doo, the called Koomi,

At

distance from Tobaubo

a

"

the slaves

land where world

their

are

But of all countries in the

sold."

best,and their own peopleas the happiest ; and theypitythe fate of other nations, who have been placedby Providence in less fertileand less own

appears

to

them

as

the

fortunate districts. Some

of the with the

blended

unworthyof

religious opinionsof the Negroes,though weakest credulity and superstition, not are

attention.

I have

conversed with all ranks and

of their faith, conditions upon the subject and can pronounce, without the smallest shadow of doubt,that the behef of one God, and

of

a

future state of reward

universal among

them. *

and

is entire and punishment, It is remarkable, however,that,except

Chapterxxxi. verses

26,27,28.

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

227

the appearance of a new before related, the Pagan as moon, natives do not think it necessary to offerup prayers and supplication to the Almighty. They represent the Deity,indeed, on

as

the creator

and

consider him

as

a

that it is idle to mortals

can

reverse

preserver of all things ; but in generalthey being so remote, and of so exalted a nature,

of wretched imaginethe feeble supplications the decrees, and change the purposes of If theyare asked, for what reason then do

Wisdom. unerring theyofferup a prayer answer is,that custom

the appearance of the new moon ; the has made it necessary ; theydo it, because on

their fathers did it before them. unassisted nature ! committed

the

concerns

is the blindness of

of this

world,theybeUeve, the superintendence and whom theysuppose that

Almighty to direction of subordinate spirits, over certain magicalceremonies have greatinfluence. A white fowl suspendedto the branch of a particular tree,a snake's head, few handfuls of fruit, and which ignorance or a are offerings the wrath, or to superstition frequently present,to deprecate conciliate the favour,of these tutelary agents. But it is not often that the Negroesmake their religious the subject opinions of conversation. When in particular, concerning interrogated, their ideas of a future state,theyexpress themselves with great reverence, but endeavour to shorten the discussion by observing, knows any thingabout it." They inta alio, no man mo 0 mo of their are content,theysa}^ to follow the preceptsand examples forefathers, throughthe various vicissitudesof hfe ; and when this world presents no objects of enjoymentor comfort,they which theybelieve towards another, to look with anxiety seem which will be better suited to their natures, but concerning vain and delusive conjectures. theyare far from indulging At forty, The Mandingoesseldom attain extreme old age. of them become gray haired, and covered with wrinkles ; most and but few of them survive the age of fifty-five or sixty. They calculatethe years of their lives, observed, as I have abready by are

by

The

Such

"

"

park's

228

travels

in

(therebeing but one such in the founded each year by a particular name, year); and distinguish which happened in that year. remarkable occurrence some on Thus theysay the year of the Farhanna war ; the year of the Kaarta war etc.,etc, ; plundered^ ; the year on which Gadou was be and I have no doubt that the year 1796, will in many places of Tohauho tamhi sang, the year the by the name distinguished would naturally form white man passed; as such an occurrence an epochin their traditionalhistory. that longevity But notwithstanding is uncommon among that their diseases are but few in them, it appearedto me Their simplediet, and active way of life, number. preserve them from many of those disorders which embitter the daysof luxuryand idleness. Fevers and fluxes are the most common and the most fatal. For these, to theygenerally applysaphies different parts of the body,and performa great many other of which ceremonies;some superstitious are, indeed, well calculated to inspire the patient with the hope of recovery, and divert his mind from brooding his own over danger. But I have sometimes observed among them a more mode systematic of treatment. On the firstattack of a fever, when the patient of cold,he is frequently complains placedin a sort of vapour ; this is done by spreading branches of the nauclea orierdalisupon hot wood embers,and layingthe patient upon them, wrapped cotton cloth. Water is then sprinkled up in a large upon the branches, to the hot embers,soon the which,descending covers with a cloud of vapour, in which he is allowed to remain patient until the embers are almost extinguished. This practice commonly and wonderfully relieves producesa profuseperspiration, the number

of

rainyseasons

"

"

the sufferer. For

the

dysentery, they use the bark of different trees reduced to powder,and mixed with the patient's food ; but this is in generalvery unsuccessful. practice The other diseaseswhich prevail the. Negroesare among

THE

INTERIOR

OF

229

AFRICA.

the yaws^ the elephantiasis^ and a leprosy of the very worst kind. This last-mentioned complaint in appears, at the beginning,

scurfy spots upon

differentpartsof the

settle body,which finally where the skin becomes withered, andupon the hands or feet, cracks in many places.At length, the ends of the fingers swell and ulcerate ; the discharge is acrid and foetid; the nails drop and the bones of the fingers become carious, and separate off, at the joints.In this manner the disease continues to spread, until the patient loses allhis fingers and toes. Even frequently the hands and feet are sometimes destroyed by this inveterate of halla jou, malady,to which the Negroes give the name "

incurable." The

Guinea

worm

is likewise very

common

in certain places,

at the commencement of the rainy The Negroes season. especially attribute this disease, which has been described by many writers, to bad water ; and allege that the people who drink from wells are To the to it than those who drink from streams. more subject of the glandsof the neck same cause theyattribute the swelling in some I which are very common (goitres), partsof Bambarra. in the interior countries, observed also, a few instances of simple the confirmed lues. On the whole,it apgonorrhoea peared ; but never that the Negroesare better surgeons than physicians. to me

I found them

very successful in their management

of fractures

and and bandagesare simple, and their splints dislocations, The patient removed. is laid upon a soft mat, and the easily scesses All abbathed with cold water. fractured limb is frequently theyopen with the actual cautery; and the dressings are composedof either soft leaves.Shea butter,or cow's dung, the as the case seems, in their judgment,to require.Towards they coast,where a supplyof Europeanlancets can be procured, tion, of local inflammasometimes performphlebotomy ; and in cases is This operation a curious sort of cuppingis practised. to it a performedby making incisionsin the part,and applying The operator bullock's horn,with a small hole in the end. and

park's

230

travels

in

in his mouth, and puttinghis terous lipsto the hole,extracts the air from the horn ; and by a dexThis of his tongue, stopsup the hole with the wax. use

then takes

pieceof

is found to

method a

a

bees-wax

answer

the purpose, and in

generalproduces

discharge. plentiful When

a

person of consequence

the relationsand neighdies, bours

and manifest their sorrow by loud and together, dismal bowlings. A bullock or goat is killed for such persons which generally takes placein to assistat the funeral, as come the eveningof the same day on which the party died. The and frequently burial places, dig Negroeshave no appropriate the grave in the floor of the deceased's hut,or in the shade of The body is dressed in white cotton, and favourite tree. a It is carried to the grave, in the dusk wrappedup in a mat. of the evening, by the relations. If the grave is without the of prickly bushes are laid upon it, walls of the town, a number to prevent the wolves from digging up the body ; but I never observed that any stone was ment placedover the grave, as a monumeet

or

memorial.

Hitherto I have considered the

in a moral Negroeschiefly and confined myselfto the most prominentfeatures in light, theirmental character. Their domestic amusements, occupations, and diet,their arts and manufactures, dinate with some other suborto be noticed. are now objects, Of their music and dances,some has incidently account been givenin different parts of my journal.On the first of these heads,I have now to add a list of their musical instruments, the principal of which are the hoontmg^ of guitar a sort the horro^a largeharp with eighteen with three strings; small harp with seven the simhing^ a strings; strings;the instrument composed of twenty pieces an of hard wood halafou, of differentlengths, with the shellsof gourdshung underneath, to increase the sound ; the tangtang, at the lower a drum, open end ; and lastly, the tdbala, a largedrum, commonly used to

THE

spread an

INTERIOR

OF

231

AFRICA.

alarm

throughthe country. Besides these,they make use of small flutes, and bells; teeth, bowstrings, elephants' and at alltheir dances and concerts,clapping of hands appears

to

constitute a necessary part of the chorus. With the love of music is naturally connected

taste

a

for

for the poets of Africa, poetry; and fortunately theyare in a and indigence exemptedfrom that neglect greatmeasure which, in

countries commonly attend the votaries of the polished Muses. They consist of two classes; the most numerous are the singing mentioned in a former part of men^ called JilliIcea, more

my

narrative.

They

town.

men,

or

One

of these may be found in every sing extempore songs, in honour of their chief or

more

any other persons who

are

to give willing

"

solid

ding pud-

for empty praise."But a nobler part of their oflSce is to recite the historicalevents of their country; hence,in war, they the soldiers to the field, in order,by reciting the accompany

greatactions of thek ancestors,to awaken

in them

a

of spirit

emulation. The other class are devotees of the Mahoglorious medan who travel about the country, singingdevout faith, ceremonies,'to conciliate the hymns, and performingreligious favour of the Almighty, either in averting or insuring calamity, Both descriptions of these itinerant to any enterprise. success and very bards are much employedand respected by the people, liberalcontributions are

made

for them.

Negroes is somewhat differentin different districts. In general,the peopleof free condition breakfast about daybreak, upon gruelmade of meal and water, with a littleof the fruitof the tamarind to giveit an acid taste. About two o'clock in the afternoon, a sort of hastypudding, stitutes is the common with a littleShea butter, meal; but the supper conthe principal repast,and is seldom readybefore midnight. This consists almost universally of kouskous,with a small portion mixed with it. In eating, of animal food,or Shea butter, hand only. the right the Kafirs, as well as Mahomedans, use The

usual diet of the

park's

232

in

travels

beverageof the Pagan Negroes are beer and mead ; of The Mahomedan drink to excess. each of which theyfrequently The natives of all descriptions converts drink nothingbut water. Their pipesare made of take snuff and smoke tobacco. wood, with an earthen bowl of curious workmanship.But in the The

of allluxuries is salt. It would the greatest interiorcountries, strange to a European to see a child suck a pieceof appear

This,however,I have frequently tants in the inland parts,the poorer class of inhabialthough,

rock-saltas if it were seen

;

to say

are

so

a

man

sugar.

with indulged rarely

very eats

that this precious article,

salt with his victualsis the

same

as

sayinghe

myselfsuffered greatinconvenience from food of this article. The long use of vegetable the scarcity that no words can sufficientl for salt, creates so painful a longing

is

a

rich man.

I have

describe it.

and the Mandingoesin particular, Negroes in general, considered by the whites on the coast as an indolent and are The nature of the I think without reason. inactive people, unfavourable to greatexertion ; but surely climate is,indeed, a whose be denominated habitually indolent, peoplecannot justly of wants not are supplied, by the spontaneous productions exertions. Few peoplework harder, nature, but by their own than the Mandingoes; but not having when occasion requires, of turning the superfluous to advantage opportunities many duce proof their labour,theyare content with cultivating as much groundonlyas is necessary fortheir own support. The labours of the fieldgivethem prettyfull employmentduringthe rains ; and in the dry season, the peoplewho live in the vicinity of in fishing.The fish are largerivers employthemselves chiefly The

with small cotton nets, and are beingfirstdried in the sun, and afterwards rubbed

taken in wicker

preserved by

baskets,or

butter to preventthem from contracting ture. fresh moisOthers of the natives employ themselves in hunting.

with Shea

Their weapons

are

bows and

arrows

;

but the

arrows

in

common

THE

OF

INTERIOR

poisoned.*They

233

AFRICA.

dexterous

marksmen, and will hit a lizard on a tree,or any other small object, at an amazingdistance. They likewise killGuinea-fowls, partridges, and pigeons, but never the wing. While the men on are the women in are occupiedin these pursuits, very diligent manufacturingcotton cloth. They prepare the cotton for at a time,upon spinningby layingit,in small quantities a smooth stone or piece of wood, and rolling the seeds out with a thick iron spindle, and they spinit with the distaff. The thread is not fine, but well twisted, and makes a very durable cloth. A woman with common will spin diligence from six to nine garments of this cloth in one year, which, will sell for a minkalli and a half or to its fineness, according The weavingis performedby the men. two minkallies each.t The loom is made exactly that of as principle upon the same that the web is seldom more Europe; but so small and narrow use

are

than

not

broad.

four inches

construction ; but than larger

as

the

are

The

very

shuttle is of the

the thread is coarse, the chamber

common

is somewhat

European.

blue colour, dye this cloth of a rich and lasting The leaves of the indigo, by the following simpleprocess. when fresh gathered, are pounded in a wooden mortar, and mixed in a largeearthen jarwith a stronglyeof wood ashes. The cloth is steepedin this is sometimes added. Chamber-lye the proper mixture,and allowed to remain until it has acquired The

*

women

Poisoned

arrows

are

used

in chiefly

war.

which is said to poison, of echites), hoona (a species The

from a shrub called is prepared be very deadly, in the woods. which is very common The leaves of this shrub,when with

a

small

quantityof water, yielda

thick black

boiled

into which juice,

the

thread ; this thread they fasten round the iron of the in such a manner that itis almost impossible to extract the arrow, when arrow the iron pointand the poisoned it has sunk beyond the barbs, without leaving

Negroesdipa

cotton

thread in the wound. of gold nearlyequalin value t A minkalli is a quantity

sterling.

to ten

shillings

park's

234

in

travels

Ludamar, where the indigois not they collectthe leaves,and dry them in the sun ; and plentiful, to when they wish to use them theyreduce a sufficientquantity shade.

Kaarta

In

and

lye,as before mentioned. Either with a fine purplegloss, and way, the colour is very beautiful, to the best Indian or European blue. equal,in my opinion, and sewed into garments This cloth is cut into various pieces, with needles of the natives' own making. As the arts of weaving, dyeing,sewing,etc.,may easily exercise them are not considered in those who be acquired, for almost every Africa as following profession, any particular and every boy can sew. The only artists slave can weave, and which are distinctly as such by the Negroes, acknowledged and peculiar who value themselves on exercising appropriate The firstof are the manufacturers of leatherand of iron. trades, these are called Karranhea (oras the word is sometimes pronounced Gaungay), They are to be found in almost every travel throughthe country in the town, and they frequently exercise of their calKng. They tan and dress leather with very the hide firstin a mixture of wood by steeping greatexpedition, ashes and water, until it parts with the hair, and afterwards by usingthe pounded leaves of a tree called goo as an astringent. as They are at greatpainsto render the hide as soft and pliant between their hands, and possible, by rubbingit frequently The hides of bullocks are converted beatingit upon a stone. into sandals,and therefore require less care in chiefly than the skins of sheepand goats,which are used for dressing and saphies, and in making sheaths for swords coveringquivers and knives,belts, and a variety of ornaments. These pockets, skins are commonly dyed of a red or yellowcolour ; the red by of millet stalksreduced to powder,and the yellowby the means of which I have forgotten. root of a plant, the name powder,and

mix it with the

The manufacturers in iron ranheas ; but

they appear

to

are

not

have

so

numerous

as

the Kar-

studied their business with

THE

INTERIOR

OF

235

AFRICA.

The Negroeson the coast beingcheaply equaldiligence. supplied with iron from the European traders, never attempt the of this articlethemselves ; but in the inland parts, manufacturing the natives smelt this useful metal in such quantities, as not onlyto supplythemselves from it with all necessary weapons and instruments, it an articleof commerce but even to make with some of the neighbouring states. During my stay at Kamalia,there was a melting furnace at a short distance from the hut where I lodged, made and the owner and his workmen the operation, and of conducting secret about the manner no allowed me to examine and assistthem in the furnace, readily breakingthe iron stone. The furnace was a circular tower of clay,about ten feet high and three in diameter,surrounded in and two places with writhes, to prevent the clayfrom cracking to pieces falling by the violence of the heat. Round the low^er part,on a level with the ground(butnot so low as the bottom of the furnace, made seven which was somewhat concave), were into every one of which were openings, placedthree tubes of and the openingsagainplastered clay, up in such a manner that no air could enter the furnace but throughthe tubes,by the opening and shutting the fire. of which they regulated These tubes were mixture of clayand formed by plastering a as the clay as soon grass round a smooth rollerof wood, w^hich, began to harden,was withdrawn,and the tube left to dry in the sun. The iron-stone which I saw was very heavy,and of broken into pieces with greyish a dull red colour, specks ; it was first about the size of a hen's egg. A bundle of dry wood was put into the furnace,and covered with a considerablequantity of charcoal, which was broughtreadyburnt from the woods. and then another of of ironstone, and so on, until the furnace was charcoal, quitefull. The fire was appHedthroughone of the tubes,and blown for some time Over this was

laid a stratum

with bellows made and slowlyat first,

skins. of goats' it was

some

The

went operation

hours before the flame

on

very

appeared

park's

236

in

travels

above the furnace ; but after this it burnt with greatviolence and the peoplewho attended put in at times allthe firstnight, the firewas not so fierce, charcoal. On the day following more and

on

the second

nightsome

of the tubes

were

withdrawn,

to the furnace ; but the and the air allowed to have freer access feet above heat was stillvery great,and a bluish flame rose some ment the top of the furnace. On the third day from the commencetaken out, the ends all the tubes were of the operation,

with the heat ; but the metal of many of them beingvitrified when the whole until some not removed days afterwards,

was was

cool. Part of the furnace was then taken down, and perfectly in the form of a largeirregular the iron appeared mass, with of charcoal adhering to it. It was sonorous ; and when pieces broken off, the fracture exhibited a granulated was any portion appearance,

like broken

steel. The

owner

informed

me

that

but stillthere was useless, good enoughto repay him for his trouble. This iron,or rather is formed into various instruments, steel, by beingrepeatedly heated in a forge, the heat of which is urgedby a pairof double of a very simple bellows, construction, beingmade of two goats' the tubes from which unite before they enter the forge, skins, and supplya constant and very regular blast. The hammer, and anvil, all very simple, and the workmanship are forceps, in the formation of knives and spears), is not destitute (particularly of merit. The iron, and requires ishard and brittle, indeed,

many iron

parts of this cake

much

labour before it can

were

be made

to

Most of the African blacksmiths the method

of

answer are

the purpose. also with acquainted

line smelting gold,in which process theyuse an alkaobtained from a lyeof burnt corn-stalks evaporated to salt, dryness.They likewise draw the gold into wire,and form it into a variety of ornaments, some of which are executed with a great deal of taste and ingenuity. Such is the chief information I obtainedconcerning the of Africa presentstate of arts and manufactures in those regions

THE

Avhich

I

scarce

worthy

for

with

and

colours,

his

this the

so

observation

slaves, miserable

found,

I

a

a

the

various

state

of

in

believe,

all

considerable

Mediterranean,

leads

as

well

by

this

of

commerce

as

with

the

their

of

calabashes

they

of

dition, con-

;

reduced

are

class

country, the

free

and

condition

unfortunate

with

riority. supe-

Africa

the

extensive

nations

master

of of

in

consider which

the

persons

unknown

This

of

stain

distinction

mean

to

me

articles,

they

described,

any

are

pay,

servitude.

branch

which

is

the

Kaarta,

other

cover

above

I

means

parts

and

it

manner.

same

which for

working naturally

and

the

to

without

by

servants,

voluntarily

also

though

and

rushes,

occupations together,

work

Hired

hats,

in

dyed

laborious

slaves

baskets,

contrive

they

cane,

the

all

Bambarra

from

add,

might

in

ornament,

interwoven In

that

beautiful

and

I

journey.

my

237

AFRICA.

OF

observation,

very

use

different

and

of

make

both

in

explored

natives

INTERIOR

states

Europe.

and

of to

are

stitute con-

on

the

park's

238

travels

in

XXII.

CHAPTER

the State and Sources Ohservationsconcerning

il.STATE

and certain of subordination,

children

born to

in Africa, ofSlavery

of rank inequalities inevitable in every stageof civilsociety and condition, are ; but that the when this subordination is carried to so greata length, persons and services of one part of the communityare entirely of another part,it may then be denominated a at the disposal a state of slavery great body of ; and in this condition of life, the Negro inhabitants of Africa have continued from the most that their with this aggravation, earlyperiodof their history, are

no

other inheritance.

nearlyin the proportion of three to one to the freemen. They claim no reward for and are treated with their services except food and clothing, kindness or severity, to the good or bad disposition according of their masters. Custom, however, has established certain of slaves, rules with regardto the treatment which it is thought dishonourable to violate. Thus, the domestic slaves, such as or born in a man's own are house,are treated with more lenity with money. The authority than those which are purchased of the master over the domestic slave, as I have elsewhere observed, extends only to reasonable correction ; for the master cannot sellhis domestic without having firstbroughthim to a public of the place.*But these restrictionson trialbefore the chief men The

*

slaves in

I Africa,

suppose,

are

is permitted the master of his to sellone or more famine, for his family to purchase of the master's domestics, provisions ; and in case the domestic slaves are sometimes seized upon by the creditors, insolvency,

In time

of

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

239

the power of the master extend not to the case of prisoners taken in war, nor to that of slaves purchased with money. All these unfortunate beingsare considered as strangers and foreigners, of the law,and may be rightto the protection sold to a stranger, treated with severity, to the or according of their owners. There are, indeed, pleasure regularmarkets, where slaves of this description are boughtand sold ; and the value of a slave in the eye of an African purchaser, increases in to his distance from his native kingdom; for when proportion vity, slaves are onlya few days' journeyfrom the placeof their natieffecttheir escape ; but when one or more theyfrequently difficult, theyare more kingdomsintervene, escape beingmore reconciled to their situation. On this account, the readily transferred from one dealer to unhappy slave is frequently until he has lost all hopes of returning to his native another, kingdom. The slaves which are purchasedby the Europeans of this description the coast are chiefly on ; a few of them are which collected in the petty wars, hereafter to be described, the coast ; but by far the greaternumber are take placenear of from the inland countries, broughtdown in largecaravans which many are unknown even by name to the Europeans. The slaves which are thus broughtfrom the interiormay be divided slaves from their such as were into two distinct classes; firsts such as birth, havingbeen born of enslaved mothers ; secondly, but who afterwards, born free, were by whatever means, became rous slaves. Those of the firstdescription are by far the most numetaken in war (at least such as are taken in ; for prisoners hostihties one kingdom avows open and declared war, when The comof this description. paratively are another), generally against of free people to the enslaved small proportion been noticed ; and it must be throughoutAfrica has already who

have

no

them, theyare liable to be sold for payment in which the domestic of his debts. These are the onlycases that I recollect, without any misconduct or demerit of their own. slaves are liableto be sold, and ifthe master

cannot

redeem

park's

240

that men observed, the slaves, even armed and well

travels

in

of free condition have many advantages over time. in war They are in generalbetter

mounted,and

either

fightor escape with some hopesof success ; but the slaveswho have onlytheir spears and bows, and of whom greatnumbers are loaded with baggage, become an easy prey. Thus, when Mansong,king of BamKaarta (asI have related in a former barra,made war upon of which he took in one day nine hundred prisoners, chapter),

number

not

more

than

I received from Daman

all of whom

can

free men. This account seventywere slaves at KemJumma, who had thirty made

prisoners by Mansong. Again, his friends will sometimes when a freeman is taken prisoner, him by givingtwo slaves in exchange; but when a ransom slave is taken,he has no hopes of such redemption. To these it is to be added that the Slatees, who purchase disadvantages, and carry them down slaves in the interior countries, to the such as have been in that condition coast for sale, prefer constantly of lifefrom their infancy, well knowingthat these have been accustomed to hungerand fatigue, and are better able to sustain the hardships of a longand painful journeythan free men ; and their reachingthe coast,if no opportunity offersof selling on them to advantage, be made to maintain themselves they can easily neither are theyso aptto attemptmaking by their labour, their escape as those who have once tasted the blessings of moo,

were

freedom. Slaves of the second

become such by description generally 1. Captivity one or other of the following causes : ; 2. Famine ; A freeman may, by the established 3. Insolvency ; 4. Grimes, of Africa, become a slave by beingtaken in war. customs War the most productive is,of all others, source, and was probably the originof slavery nation had taken from one ; for when another a greaternumber of captives than could be exchanged on equal terms, it is natural to suppose that the conquerors, it inconvenient to maintain their prisoners, would compel finding "

INTERIOR

THE

OF

AFRICA.

241

them to labour ; at first, perhaps, onlyfor their own support, but afterwards to support their masters. Be this as it may, it in Africa are the slaves of war is a known fact, that prisoners of the conquerors ; and when begsfor mercy beneath the

givesup

at

the sametime

the weak

or

unsuccessful warrior

uplifted spear of his opponent,he his claim to liberty, and purchases his

lifeat the expense of his freedom. In a country divided into a thousand and jealous of independent

pettystates,mostly

each

where every freeman is other, and fond of military accustomed to arms achievements ; where the bow and spear from his infancy, who has practised the youth, his to display longsfor nothingso much as an opportunity valour,it is natural to imaginethat wars frequently originate When from very frivolous provocation. nation is more one mencing powerfulthan another,a pretextis seldom wanting for comhostilities. Thus the war between Kajaagaand Kasoccasioned by the detention of a fugitive slave ; that son was and Kaarta by the loss of a few cattle. between Bambarra nature Other cases of the same perpetually occur, in which the and the zeal of their follyor mad ambition of their princes, enthusiasts, give full employmentto the scytheof religious desolation.

of two kinds, which are distinguished which bears the greatest differentappellations ; that species The

by

wars

of Africa

are

a European contests,is denominated killi, word signifying to call out,"because such wars are openly in avowed and previously declared. Wars of this description Africa commonly terminate, however,in the course of a single seldom think the vanquished campaign. A battle is fought, of rallying again; the whole inhabitants become panicstruck, and carry off and the conquerors have onlyto bind the slaves, their plunderand their victims. Such of the prisoners as, unable to endure fatigue, or are are throughage or infirmity, and I have no doubt found unfitfor sale, are considered as useless,

resemblance to

our "

R

park's

242

are a

frequently put to death. or any other person chief,

in

travels

The who

fate commonly awaits

same

has taken

a

very

distinguished

be observed that,notwithstanding And part in the war. to behold this exterminating system,it is surprising here it may

is rebuilt and

cumstanc repeopled.The cirthat their pitchedbattles from this, arises probably and seek safety situation, are few,the weakest know their own and their their country has been desolated, in flight.When deserted by the enemy, such of the ruined towns and villages inhabitants as have escapedthe sword and the chain,generally of their nativity to the place return, thoughwith cautious steps, ; for it seems to spendthe to be the universal wish of mankind eveningof their dayswhere theypassedtheir infancy. The poor Negro feelsthis desire in itsfullforce. To him no water is sweet but what is drawn from his own well,and no tree has of his native shade as the tabba tree'*' a so cool and pleasant village.When war compelshim to abandon the delightful spot in some in which he firstdrew his breath,and seek for safety other kingdom, his time is spentin talking about the countryof his how

African

an

soon

than he turns his is peace restored, the land of strangers,rebuilds with haste his fallen

ancestors ; and

back upon walls,and

town

no

sooner

exults to

see

the

smoke

ascend

from

his native

village. The

other

of African warfare is distinguished species by the of tegria, plundering It arises from or stealing." appellation feud which the inhabitants of one nation or a sort of hereditary districtbear towards another. No immediate cause of hostility is assigned, or notice of attack given; but the inhabitants of each watch every opportunity to plunderand distressthe objects of their animosity excursions. These are very by predatory about the beginningof the dry season, particularly common, when the labour of the harvest is over, and provisions are plen"

*

This

Bentangis

is

tree (a species of sterculia) under largespreading commonly placed. a

which

the

THE

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

243

tiful. Schemes of vengeance are then meditated. The chiefman of his vassals, as theybrandish surveys the number and activity their spears at his whole

festivals, and,elated with his own

towards revenging some thoughts

which either he

or

his ancestors

may

have

turns importance, or insult, depredation received from a neighbouring

state.

Wars

of this description are

conducted with great generally A few resolute individuals, headed by some secrecy. person of and courage, march quietly enterprise throughthe woods,surprise in the nightsome and carry ofifthe inhabitants unprotected village, and their effectsbefore their neighbours to their can come assistance. One morning, duringmy stay at Kamaha, we were all much alarmed by a party of this kind. The king of Fooladoo's son, with five hundred horsemen,passedsecretly through the woods, a littleto the southward of Kamalia,and on the three towns belonging to Madigai, morningfollowing plundered chief in Jallonkadoo. a powerful of this expedition The success encouragedthe governor of in Fooladoo,to make a second inroad upon town a Bangassi, another part of the same country. Havingassembled about two hundred of his people, he passedthe river Kokoro in the night, and carried ofi"a great number of prisoners.Several of the inhabitants who had escapedthese attacks, afterwards were seized by the Mandingoesas theywandered about in the woods, or concealed themselves in the glensand strongplacesof the mountains. tion excursions alw^ays plundering producespeedyretaliabe collected for this purcannot parties ; and when large pose, into few friends will the and advance combine a together, enemy's country,with a view to plunder,or carry oflFthe inhabitants. A single individual has been known to take his Such an attempt and proceedin like manner. bow and quiver, These

dered of rashness ; but when it is consiof these predatory been wars, he has probably

is doubtless in him that in

one

an

act

park's

244

in

travels

his situation will relation, his child, or his nearest The poor sufferer, urgedon rather call for pitythan censure. of domestic or paternal attachment,and the by the feelings

deprivedof

the bushes,until

ardour of revenge, conceals himself among or unarmed person passes by. He

young

his prey, dragshis victim into carries him off as a slave.

upon

When

a

Negro has,by

means

some

then,tiger-like, springs the thicket, and in the night

like

once these,

fallen into

of his enemies,he is either retained as the slave of his conqueror, or bartered into a distant kingdom; for an African, the hands

give him an him at a future period. of lifting opportunity up his hand against of his captives to the A conqueror commonlydisposes according rank which theyheld in their native kingdom. Such of the and pardomestic slaves as appear to be of a mild disposition, ticularly when

he has

once

subdued his enemy,

will seldom

retained as the young are women, Others that display marks of discontent are distant country, and such of the freemen an

active part in the war,

are

or

his

own

slaves.

disposedof

in

a

slaves as have taken

either sold to the Slatees, or

put

the most generaland is certainly War, therefore, and the desolations of war of slavery, most productive source of slavery, often (butnot always)producethe second cause famine^in which case a freeman becomes a slave to avoid a greatercalamity. and reflecting mind, death itself Perhaps, by a philosophic be considered as a greatercalamity would scarcely than slavery ; but the poor Negro, when fainting with hunger,thinks like Esau of old ; hehold I am what profit at the pointto die^and to

death.

*'

do to me?" shall this birthright

free men

There

are

many

instances of

their to save surrendering voluntarily up their liberty lives. During a greatscarcity, which lasted for three years, in the countries of the Gambia, great numbers of peoplebecame slaves in this manner. Dr. Laidley assured me, that at that time many free men and beggedwith great earnestness to came

INTERIOR

THE

le put upon

his

OF

to slave-chain,

245

AFRICA.

them

from

of perishing hunger. Large families are very often exposedto absolute want ; and as the parentshave almost unlimited authority over it frequently their children, that happens,in all partsof Africa, of the latter are sold to purchase for the rest some provisions of the family. When I was at Jarra,Daman Jumma pointed three young slaves which he had purchasedin this out to me I have already related another instance which I saw manner. at Wonda, and I was informed that in Fooladoo, at that time, it was a very common practice. of slavery is insolvency. The third cause Of allthe offences to which the laws of Africa (ifinsolvency may be so called) have afiBxedthe punishmentof slavery, this isthe most common. A Negro trader commonly contracts debts on mercantile some either from his neighbours, such articles to purchase speculation, will sell to advantagein a distant market, or from the as Europeantraders on the coast payment to be made in a given In both cases the situation of the adventurer is exactly time. If he succeeds he may secure the same. an independency.If of his person and services are at the disposal he is unsuccessful, but for in Africa not onlythe effectsof the insolvent, another, is sold to satisfy the insolvent himself, the lawful demands even save

"

of his creditors.* *

When

Negro takes

goods od credit from any of the Europeans on the European is the coast,and does not make payment at the time appointed, if he authorised, hy the laws of the country,to seize upon the debtor himself, find him ; or, if he cannot be found,on any person of his family can ; or, in the last resort, on kingdom. The person thus seized on any native of the same When he is while his friends are sent in quest of the debtor. is detained, debtor is and the found,a meetingis called of the chief peopleof the place, his friend by fulfilling his engagements. If he is unable compelledto ransom his person is immediately secured and sent down to the coast,and to do this, the other released. If the debtor cannot be found,the person seized on is of the debt,or is himself sold into slavery. to pay double the amount obliged I was given to understand, however,that this part of the law is seldom enforced.

a

up

park's

246

fourth

The

cause

above

in

travels

enumerated

is the commission

of ment. punish-

as a slavery crimes^on which the laws of the countryaffix the only offences of this class are murder, In Africa, and witchcraft ; and I am happy to say, that theydid adultery, In cases of murder,I was informed to be common. not appear to me

that the nearest relationof the deceased had it in his power, either to kill the offender with his own after conviction, hand,

slavery.When adultery occurs, it is generally either to sellthe culprit, of the person injured, leftto the option for him as he may think equivalent to or acceptsuch a ransom he has sustained. By witchcraft is meant the injury pretended magic,by which the lives or healths of persons are affected; in of poison. No trialfor this other words,it is the administering or

sellhim into

in under my observation while I was however, came offence, Africa,and I therefore suppose that the crime and its ment punishoccur

When causes

but very seldom. freeman has become a

before

his children

a

slave

by

any

continues mentioned,he generally born of

so

one

of the

for life, and

enslaved

mother)are brought There are, however, a state of servitude. up in the same their freedom,and sometimes few instances of slaves obtaining with the consent of their masters ; as by performing even some and bringing or pieceof service, singular by going to battle, home two slaves as a ransom ; but the common ing way of regainfreedom is by escape ; and when slaves have once set their minds on runningaway, theyoften succeed. Some of them will wait for years before an opportunity and presentsitself, it duringthat periodshew no signsof discontent. In general, from a hilly may be remarked that slaves who come country, accustomed to huntingand travel, and have been much are (if theyare

an

apt to attempt their escape than such as are born in a flatcountry,and have been employedin cultivating the land. Such are the generalouthnes of that system of slavery more

which

in Africa, and prevails

it is evident, from its nature

and

THE

that

extent^ its

in

origin

explored and

If

effect

which

the

a

that,

minds,

opinion

beneficial

as

antiquity,

before

desert.

How

carried

for with

on

should of

be that

It the

far

province

my

discontinance

observing,

or

within

date.

traffic, which

have

sentiments

my

manners

my

slave

Europe

neither

is

explain.

the

by of

it

the

247

AFRICA.

modern

no

of

ages

across

OF

of

system

a

remote

path

a

nations

coast,

is

the

supported

the

on

it

INTERIOR

the

required

maintained

hundred

two

my

would

the

natives,

in

the

present

is, the

effect

would

neither

be

and

worthy

persons

fondly

many

wise

have

the to

the

concerning

commerce

should

of power

of

I

years

natives

in

had

Mahomedans is

it

nor

probably

no

unenlightened

produce

hesitation state

so

of

in their

extensive

expect.

paek's

248

travels

CHAPTEE

in

XXIIL

in which it is collected Process of and the manner Of gold'dust, of the washingit Its value in Africa Of ivory Surprise for this commodity Negroesat the eagerness of the Europeans Scattered teeth frequently pickedup in the woods Mode the unimproved on ofhuntingthe elephantSome refections state of the country,etc, "

"

"

"

'"

"

"

xHOSE

valuable

commodities, gold and

ivory (thenext

been found in Africa from of our inquiry) have probably objects the first ages of the world. They are reckoned among its in the earliestrecords of its history. most importantproductions covered, disIt has been observed, that gold is seldom or never

except in mountainous and harren countries ; nature, thus making amends in one way for her penuriousness it is said,

wholly true. Gold is found in considerable quantities throughoutevery part of but cannot properly Handing a countrywhich is indeed hilly, be called mountainous, much less barren. It is also found in another about Boori), great plentyin Jallonkadoo (particularly but by no infertilecountry. It is remarkable means an hilly, that in the placelast mentioned (Boori), which is situated about four days' journeyto the south-west of Kamalia,the saltmarket is often supplied, at the same time,with rock-salt from the Great Desert,and sea-salt from the Rio-Grande ; the priceof each,at this distance from its source, beingnearlythe same ; and the dealers in each,whether Moors from the north,or

in the other.

"

This,however, is

not

THE

INTERIOR

OF

249

AFRICA.

Negroes from the west, are invited thither by the

motives

same

"

that of

their salt for gold. bartering The goldof Handing,so far as 1 could learn, found is never in any matrix or vein,but alwaysin small grains, nearlyin a head to that of a pea, scattered pure state,from the sizeof a pin's througha largebody of sand or clay; and in this state it is called by the Mandingoessanoo munko^ goldpowder." It is, however, extremelyprobable, by what I could learn of the situation of the ground,that most of it has originally been washed down by repeatedtorrents from the neighbouring hills. in which it is collected is nearly The manner as follows : the harvest is About the beginningof December, when the and torrents have greatly subsided, over, and the streams of the town, appoints a day to beginsanoo Mansa, or chief man selves to have themare sure hoo, goldwashing;" and the women in readiness by the time appointed.A hoe, or spade, for digging or three calabashes for washing it up the sand,two for containing the gold dust,are all the in,and a few quills On the morning of implementsnecessary for the purpose. their departure, ment, bullock is killed for the firstday'sentertaina "

"

"

"

and success

;

Mansa

of

so

much

for

of prayers and charms are used to failureon that day is thoughta bad omen.

number

a a

Kamalia,with fourteen of his people, were,

I

ensure

The

remember,

in their firstday'swashing, that disappointed

very few

resolution to persevere, and the few that did had but very indifierent success, which,indeed,is not much to be wondered untried place, they at, for instead of openingsome of them

had

continue to

dig and

dug and washed

wash

in the

same

spot where

for years, and where, of course, but grainscould be left.

theyhad few large

washingthe sands of the streams is by far the easiest the sands the gold-dust way of obtaining ; but in most places have been so narrowlysearched before, that unless the stream takes some new course, the goldis found but in small quantities. The

park's

250

in

travels

others of the partyare busied in washingthe sands, of employthemselves farther up the torrent,where the rapidity While

some

carried away all the clay,sand, etc.,and left nothingbut small pebbles.The search among these is a very who have had the skin troublesome task. I have seen women has

the stream

"

in this employment. Sometimes, tops of their fingers however,they are rewarded by finding piecesof gold, that amply repay which they call sanoo birrOy gold stones," worn

off the

"

inhabitants daughter, of Kamalia, found in one day two piecesof this kind ; of five drachms,and the other of three drachms weight. one mode of washingis practised But the most certain and profitable in the heightof the dry season by digginga deep pit,like a hill which has previously been discovered draw-well,near some to contain gold. The pit is dug with small spadesor corn hoes,and the earth is drawn up in largecalabashes. As the bash strata of clayor sand,a calaNegroesdigthroughthe difi'erent two of each is washed,by way of experiment or ; and in this manner until theycome the labourers proceed, to a stratum dated gold,or until theyare obstructed by rocks,or inuncontaining of In general, when theycome to a stratum by water. fine reddish sand,with small black speckstherein, they find or other,and send up largecalabashes goldin some proportion fullof the sand,for the women for thoughthe pitis to wash dugby the men, the goldis alwayswashed by the women, who are in separating accustomed from their infancy to a similar operation, them

for their trouble.

A

woman

and her

"

the husks of As in what

I

corn

never manner

from the meal. descended

theyare

situation in which

I

was

be cautious not to incur

into any of these pits, I cannot say worked under ground. Indeed,the

made it necessary for me to placed, the suspicion ing of the natives, by examin-

too far into the riches of their

the gold from separating performedby the

country; but the

manner

of

the sand is very simple, quently and is frein the middle of the town ; women

THE

for when

INTERIOR

OF

251

AFRICA.

the searchers return from the

in valleys

the

evening, of sand,

theycommonlybringwith them each a calabash or two to be washed by such of the females as remain at home. The is simplyas follows : operation of sand or clay(forgoldis sometimes found in a A portion brown coloured clay), is put into a large and mixed calabash, with a sufficientquantity of w^ater. The woman whose office "

it is,then shakes the calabash in such

a

manner

as

mix the

to

sand and water at

and givethe whole a rotatorymotion, together, firstgently, but afterwards more until a small portion of quick,

sand and water, at every revolution, flies over the brim of the calabash. The sand thus separated is onlythe coarsest particles, mixed

with

little muddy

operationhas been continued for some time,the sand is allowed to subside, and the water poured oflf; of coarse a portion sand,which is is removed now by the hand, and uppermost in the calabash, until the fresh water being added, the operationis repeated a

ofi"almost pure. The and shakes the sand and calabash, water

After the

water.

comes

now

woman

water

takes

gentlyfrom

a

second the

one

that portion of sand which is next the other,reserving and which is most likely bottom of the calabash, to contain the to

the

is mixed with some gold. This small quantity pure water, and If a examined. is carefully beingmoved about in the calabash, of gold are pickedout, the contents of the other few particles in the same calabash are examined but,in general, manner; obtain three or four the party is well contented if she can grainsfrom the contents of both calabashes. Some women, with the become so well acquainted however, by long practice, of the sand,and the mode collect gold where others cannot nature

of

washingit,that theywill

find

a

The particle. single

kept in quills, stoppedup with cotton ; and the in their of these quills washers are fond of displaying a number hair. Generally if a person uses common diligence speaking, it is supposed that as much goldmay be colin a proper soil, gold dust

is

pakk's

252

travels

in

to as is equal dry season is the process by which the value of two slaves. Thus simple from the Negroes obtain goldin Manding; and it is evident, of this account, that the country contains a considerable portion of the smaller particles must this preciousmetal, for many necessarily escape the observation of the naked eye ; and as the search the sands of streams at a considerable natives generally far removed from the and consequently distance from the hills, mines where the goldwas the labourers are originally produced, sometimes but illpaidfor their trouble. Minute particles only able of thisheavymetal can be carried by the current to any considerremain deposited the larger the original must near distance, from whence theycame. streams Were the gold-bearing source and the hillsfrom whence they to be traced to their fountains, examined,the sand in which the goldis there springproperly of a would no doubt be found to contain particles deposited much larger size,*and even the small grains might be collected and other to considerable advantage by the use of quicksilver with which the natives are at presentunacquainted. improvements, Part of this gold is converted into ornaments for the women these ornaments to be are more ; but, in general, admired for their weight than their workmanship. They are which are the ear rings, massy and inconvenient, particularly commonly so heavyas to pulldown and lacerate the lobe of the ear; to avoid which they are supportedby a thong of red which passes over the crown of the head from one ear leather, to the other. The necklace displays greater fancy; and the of gold is proper arrangement of the differentbeads and plates

lected

*

I

which

am was

slopeof a

one

course

informed that the

momitain.

Here

What

of the

goldmine,as

discovered in the year

found. here

in the

by him

it is called, in Wicklow, in

1795,is

of gold of pieces

would

have

been

golden gravel that is,each grainwas "

piecewas

found which

near

several

gold

top,and upon

the

like

a

weightwere

ounces

dust

miles

two

small

weighednearlytwenty -two

Ireland,

the

quently fre-

below, was and size,

pebblein

ounces

steep

troy.

THE

INTERIOR

OF

253

AFRICA.

the great criterion of taste and elegance. When her gold ornaments consequence is in fulldress, may

lady of

a

be worth

from fifty to eighty altogether poundssterling. A small quantity of goldis likewise employedby the Slatees, in defraying the expenses of their journeys to and from the coast ; but by far the greater proportion is annuallycarried away by the Moors in exchangefor salt and other merchandise. During my stay at Kamalia,the goldcollected by the differenttraders for salt alone, at that place, was nearlyequalto one hundred and ninety-eight poundssterling ; and as Kamalia is but a small town, and not much resorted to by the tradingMoors, this have borne a very small proportion must to the gold quantity collected at Kancaba, Kancaree,and some other largetowns. value of salt in this part of Africa is very great. One fourteen inches in slab,about two feet and a half in length,

The

will sometimes sell for breadth,and two inches in thickness, and from one about two pounds ten shillings sterling, pound fifteen shillings, to two pounds,may be considered as the common price. Four of these slabs are considered as a load for an ass, and six for a bullock. The value of Europeanmerchandise in Manding varies very much, according to the supply in the country; but the from the coast,or the dread of war return for such articlesis commonly made in slaves. The price

prime slave when I was at Kamalia,was from nine to twelve lowing the foland Europeancommodities had then nearly minkaUies,

of

a

value

"

18 gun flints, 48 leaves of tobacco, one

20

A

minkalli.

chargesof gunpowder, cutlass,

from three to four minkallies. produceof the country,and the differentnecessaries of

A musket The

exchangedfor gold,sold as follows for one Common day,the weight of provisions

when life,

"

one

teelee-

park's

254

travels

in

.

.

(ablack bean, six of whicli make the weightof one minthree teelee-kissi teelee-kissi a sheep, a chicken,one ]jalli) minfrom ten to seventeen minkalli a horse, one a bullock, kissi

"

"

"

"

kallies.

which they Negroesweigh the goldin small balances, They make no difference in point alwayscarry about them. of value,between gold dust and wroughtgold. In bartering the person who receives the gold, articlefor another, one always teelee-kissi. These beans are sometimes weighsit with his own soaked in Shea-butter, to make them heavy; fraudulently into the form of one of and I once saw a pebble groundexactly not very common. them ; but such practices are to my Having now related the substance of what occurs the African mode of obtaining recollectionconcerning goldfrom I proceedto the next article, the earth,and its value in barter, of which I proposed to treat,namelyivory. the Negroes on Nothingcreates a greatersurprise among the sea coast,than the eagerness displayed by the European teeth ; it beingexceedingly cult diffitraders to procure elephants' them comprehend to what use it is appHed. to make combs, and Althoughthey are shewn knives with ivoryhafts, material,and are convinced that the ivory toys of the same thus manufactured,was originally theyare not parts of a tooth, satisfied. They suspectthat this commodityis more frequently in of converted far greaterimportance Europeto purposes ; the of which is studiously concealed from them, lest the true nature priceof ivoryshould be enhanced. They cannot, they say, that shipswould be built,and easilypersuadethemselves, which had no other voyages undertaken,to procure an articile, handles to knives,etc.,when value than that of furnishing the purpose equally of wood would answer well. pieces in the interior of Africa, but Elephantsare very numerous from those found in Asia. they appear to be a distinct species of objects of natural history, has Blumenbach,in his figures The

INTERIOR

THE

givengood drawingsof evident.

Cuvier

M.

also

a clear account pediquBj never

255

AFRICA.

of each ; and the variation is grinder has given in the MagazinEncyclo-

of the differencebetween

the Asiatic

examined

refer to those

a

OF

I have elephant,

than advance this writers,

them.

As

1

chosen rather to

opinionof my It has been said that the African elephantis of a less own. and incapable docile nature than the Asiatic, of being tamed. The Negroescertainly do not at present tame them ; but when consider that the Carthaginians had alwaystame we elephants in their armies,and actually of them to Italy some transported in the course of the Punic wars, it seems that they more likely the art of taming their own should have possessed elephants, than have submitted to the expense of bringingsuch vast animals from Asia. of hunting Perhapsthe barbarous practice the African elephants for the sake of their teeth, has rendered them more untractable and savage, than they were found to be as

an

in former times.

greaterpart of the ivorywhich is sold on the Gambia and Senegalrivers, is broughtfrom the interior country. The The

lands towards with

the coast

creeks and

are

too swampy,

for rivers,

and

too

much

sected inter-

bulkyan animal as the without beingdiscovered ; and when to travel through, elephant the natives discern the marks of his feet in the earth, the once is up in arms. whole village The thoughtsof feasting his on the teeth to the flesh, making sandals of his hide,and selling with courage ; and the animal Europeans,inspire every one seldom escapes from his pursuers ; but in the plainsof Bambarra and Kaarta,and the extensive wilds of Jallonkadoo, the of are elephants ; and, from the great scarcity very numerous gunpowder in those districts, they are less annoyed by the so

natives.

Scattered teeth travellersare

very

with practice

pickedup in the woods,and frequently It is a comin lookingfor them. mon diligent his the elephantto thrust teeth under the are

256

PARK

S TRAVELS

roots of such shrubs and bushes

as

IN

grow

in the

more

dry and

elevated partsof the country where the soilis shallow. These bushes he easily overturns,and feeds on the roots,which are in tender and juicythan the hard woody branches more general

partlydecayedby age, foliage ; but when the teeth are and the roots more firmlyfixed,the great exertions of the them to break short. causes animal in this practice frequently two At Kamalia I saw teeth,one a very largeone, which found in the woods, and which were broken ofi" were evidently in this manner. Indeed,it is difficultotherwise to account for of broken ivoryas is dailyofl'eredfor such a largeproportion the elephant is killed sale at the diff'erentfactories; for when the teeth unless he dashes himself over a precipice, in hunting, are alwaysextracted entire. of the year when the elephants There are certain seasons collectinto largeherds,and traverse the country in quest of or

the

all that part of the countryto the north whenever the poolsin the of the Nigeris destitute of rivers,

food

or

water

;

and

as

dried up, the elephants approachtowards the banks of that river. Here they continue until the commencement of

woods

are

rainyseason, in the months of June or July; and during this time theyare much hunted by such of the Bambarrans as The elephant-hunters have gunpowder to spare. seldom go out singly ; a party of four or five jointogether ; and having and a quantity each furnished himself with powder and ball, of corn-meal in a leather bag,sufficientfor five or six days'provision, the of most enter the unfrequented wood, they parts with and examine that can lead to the great care everything discoveryof the elephants.In this pursuit, notwithstanding the bulk of the animal,very great nicetyof observation is required. The broken branches,the scattered dung of the are animal,and the marks of his feet, carefully inspected ; and of the hunters have, by long experience and attentive many become so expert in their search,that as soon as observation, the

THE

INTERIOR

theyobserve the footmarks to a certainty at what time

of

OF

AFRICA.

257

elephant, theywill tellalmost it passed, and at what distance it an

will be found. When

theydiscover a herd of elephants, theyfollow them mitil they perceive at a distance, some one strayfrom the rest, into such a situation as to be fired at with advantage. and come The hunters then approach with great caution, creeping amongst the longgrass until theyhave got near enoughto be sure of all their piecesat once, and their aim. They then discharge throw themselves

theirfaces among

the grass. The wounded his trunk to the differentwounds, immediately elephant applies on

but

and seeing beingunable to extract the balls, nobody near and runs about amongst the bushes, him, becomes quitefurious, and loss of blood he has exhausted himself, until by fatigue and of firing affordsthe hunters an opportunity second time at a him, by which he is generally broughtto the ground. taken off, The skin is now and extended on the ground with pegs to dry ; and such parts of the flesh as are most

esteemed,are for

cut

up into thin slices and

dried in the sun, to future occasion. The teeth are

some on provisions which the hunters alwayscarry struck out with a light hatchet, alongwith them ; not onlyfor that purpose, but also to enable them to cut down such trees as contain honey; for thoughthey they will carry with them only five or six day'sprovisions, remain in the woods for months if theyare successful, and support themselves upon the flesh of such elephants as theykill, and wild honey. The ivorythus collected is seldom broughtdown to the coast by the hunters themselves. They disposeof it to the itinerant merchants,who come annuallyfrom the coast with and ammunition to purchasethis valuable commodity. arms Some of these merchants will collectivoryin the course of one A greatquantity season, sufficientto load four or five asses. of ivoryis likewise broughtfrom the interior by the slave serve

258

PAKE

S TRAVELS

coffles; there are, however, some who, from motives of persuasion, nor

with

eat a

of the flesh of the

IN

Slatees of the Mahomedan

will not deal in ivory, rehgion, unless it has been killed elephant,

spear.

of ivorycoUeeted in this part of Africa is not quantity so large are the teeth in general as in the countries nor so great, than eightyor one the line ; few of them weigh more nearer hundred pounds; and upon an average, a bar of European merchandise may be reckoned as the priceof a pound of ivory. I have now, I trust, in this and the preceding chapters, with suflScientminuteness the nature and extent of explained and has the commercial connection which at present prevails, between the Negro natives of those parts of long subsisted, and the nations of Europe; and it Africa which I visited, gold,and ivory,togetherwith the few appears that slaves, articlesenumerated in the beginning of my work,viz., bees-wax and honey,hides, gums, and dye woods, constitute the whole of exportable commodities. Other productions, ever, howcatalogue have been incidentally noticed as the growth of Africa ; such as grainof different kinds,tobacco,indigo, cotton-wool, and perhapsa few others ; but all of these (which can onlybe obtained by cultivationand labour), the natives raise sufficient onlyfor their own immediate expenditure ; nor, under the present system of their laws,manners, trade,and government, can anythingfarther be expectedfrom them. It cannot, however, admit of a doubt,that all the rich and valuable productions, both of the East and West Indies, be naturalised mighteasily and broughtto the utmost in the tropical perfection partsof this immense continent. Nothing is wantingto this end but the minds of the natives, and instruction, example,to enlighten to enable them to direct their industry to proper objects.It for me to behold the wonderful fertihty not possible was of the the vast herds of cattle, and soil, proper both for labour and food, a variety of other circumstances favourable to colonisation and The

INTERIOR

THE

and

agriculture themselves

a

country

remain did and in

or

of

in I

its

permitted

the

heart.

but

the

largely,

Kamalia.

this will

and

either

I

now,

neglected

state.

and left

to

think

therefore,

of

mind,

I

return

bigotry often

my

and

debases be

already to

gentle

so

immersed

might

have

more

superstition,

pagan

observations that

Much

are,

system

a

the

enhghtening many

of

now

that should

nature,

disposition

they

as

presented

lamenting by

converts

subject probably

without

favoured

manners

be

which

means

blindness

without

which,

reader

of

people

become

to

On

and

uncomfortable

and

gross

the

on

and

savage

a

259

AFRICA.

navigation,

gifted

should

benevolent,

fanaticism,

too

present that

lament

the

inland

vast

a

abundantly

so

withal,

reflect,

"

OF

made

;

digressed

situation

at

park's

260

in

travels

XXIV.

CHAPTER Kamalia

at

resumed

Arabic

in use manuscripts the the Mahomedan Negroes Reflections concerning among conversion and education ofthe Negrochildren Return ofthe Author s benefactor^ Karfa Further account of the purchase and treatment ofslaves Fast ofRhamadan^ how observed by the Negroes Author s anxiety forthe day ofdepartureThe and proAccount of it on its departure, sets out caravan ceedings its arrival at until the road on Kinytahooro.

Transactions

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

J_HE

I

entrusted

duringthe of a mild disposition and gentle absence of Karfa,was a man Fankooma was manners ; and althoughhe himself ; his name of Mahomet, he was to the religion adhered strictly by no means towards others who differedfrom him. intolerant in his principles He spent much of his time in reading appeared ; and teaching as well as employment. His school consisted to be his pleasure, of Kafirs, and two of whom of seventeen boys,most were sons received of whom was Karfa's own daughter.The girls one girls, but the boysalwayshad their their instructionsin the day-time, and again lessons by the Kght of a largefire before daybreak, latein the evening; for beingconsidered, duringtheir scholarship, the domestic slaves of the master, theywere as employedin and in other servile offices plantingcorn, bringingfire-wood, throughthe day. to whose schoolmaster,

care

Exclusive of the Koran, and

a

was

book

or

two

of commentaries

of manuscripts, a thereon,the schoolmaster possessed variety from the trading which had partly been purchased Moors,and

THE

INTERIOR

OF

261

AFRICA.

and partlyborrowed from Bushreens in the neighbourhood, with Other manuscripts had been produced copied greatcare. to me at differentplacesin the course of my journey, and on those I had before seen, and those which were now recounting shown to me, and interrogating the schoolmaster on the subject, I discovered that the Negroesare in possession (among others) of an Arabic version of the Pentateuch of Moses,which theycall Taureta la Moosa, This is so highlyesteemed, that it is often sold for the value of one prime slave. They have likewise a version of the Psalms of David [ZaboraDawidi), And, lastly, the book of Isaiah, which theycall Lingeeli la Isa,and it is in I suspect,indeed, that in all these copies, very highesteem. of the peculiar there are interpolations of some met tenets of Mahoin many of the ; for I could distinguish passages the name however, that this circumstance might Prophet. It is possible, otherwise have been accounted for,if my knowledge of the Arabic had been more extensive. By means of those books, of the converted Negroes have acquired an acquaintance many with

of the remarkable

some

The

recorded in the Old Testament.

first parents; the death of Abel ; the deluge; the lives of Abraham, Isaac,and Jacob ; the story of Josephand his brethren ; the history of Moses,David,Solomon, account

of

events

our

All these have

etc.

been related to

me

in the

Mandingo

and my with tolerable exactness,by different people, language, these accounts from the lips not greateron hearing was surprise on Negroes,than theirs, findingthat I was already acquaintedwith them ; for althoughthe Negroes in general have a very greatidea of the wealth and power of the Europeans,

of the

I

am

but very

of lightly The

painsto their converse

them think among ledge. knowattainments in religious superior

afraid that the Mahomedan

own

white

counteract

our

converts

traders in the maritime

districtstake

no

this unhappyprejudice ; alwaysperforming

to devotions in secret,and seldom condescending and instructivemanner. with the Negroesin a friendly

park's

262

travels

in

the subject of wonder as it was not so much therefore, of Mahomet that while the superstition to observe, matter of regret, has,in this manner, scattered a few faint beams of learning To me,

is the precious lightof Christianity people, I could not but lament that,althoughthe excluded. altogether and frequented been known coast of Africa has now by the than two hundred years, yet the Negroes Europeansfor more stillremain entire strangers to the doctrines of our holyreligion. and records the opinions We are anxious to draw from obscurity the beauties of Arabian and Asiatic literature, etc. ; of antiquity, libraries are thus stored with the learningof but while our with a parsimonious various countries, we distribute, hand, the nations of the earth. of religious truth to the benighted blessings The natives of Asia derive but littleadvantagein this respec^t whom from an intercourse with us ; and even the poor Africans, look upon us, I fear, affectto consider as barbarians, as little we When better than a race of formidable but ignorant heathens. I produced Eichardson's Arabic Grammar Slatees on to some the Gambia, theywere astonished to think that any European should understand and write the sacred languageof their religion. At firsttheysuspected that it might have been written of the slaves carried from the coast ; but on a closer by some examination, theywere satisfiedthat no Bushreen could write such beautiful Arabic ; and one of them offered to give me an if I would part with the book. ass, and sixteen bars of goods, such as Perhaps,a short and easy introduction to Christianity, is found in some of the catechisms for children, printed elegantly in Arabic,and distributed on different partsof the coast,might have a wonderful effect. The expense would be but trifling ; would induce many to read it ; and the evident supecuriosity riority which it would possess over their presentmanuscripts, both in point of elegance and cheapness, might at last obtain it a placeamong the school-books of Africa. among

The

these poor

reflectionswhich

I have

thus ventured

to

submit

to

THE

my

readers

on

OF

INTERIOR

263

AFRICA.

this important selves themsubject, naturally suggested mind

the encouragement which was perceiving thus givento learning (suchas it is)in many partsof Africa. I have observed that the pupils at Kamalia were, most of them, the children of Pagans; their parents,therefore, could have had forthe doctrines of Mahomet. Their aim was their no predilection children'simprovement; and if a more enhghtenedsystem had have been preferred.The it would probably presenteditself, of emulation, which it is the children, too, wanted not a spirit to my

aim

of the tutor

on

to

encourage.

When

any

one

of them

has

read

throughthe Koran, and performeda certain number of and the publicprayers, a feast is preparedby the schoolmaster, scholar undergoes an examination,or (inEuropeanterms)takes of this out Ms degree,I attended at three differentinaugurations the distinctand inteUigent answers sort,and heard with pleasure which the scholarsfrequently who assembled gave to the Bushreens, on

those occasions, and acted had satisfiedthemselves

as

examiners.

When

the Bushreens

and the learning respecting

ties abili-

the last page of the Koran was of the scholar, put into his hand, and he was desired to read it aloud ; after the boy had he finished this lesson,

the pressed

paper

againsthis forehead,

pronouncedthe word Amen ; upon which allthe him cordially by the hand,bestowed rose, and shaking and

Bushreens upon

him

the titleof Bushreen. his parents undergonethis examination, and that it is informed that he has completed his education, are master to the schoolincumbent on them to redeem their son, by giving or the priceof a a slave, slave,in exchange,which is alwaysdone,if the parents can afford to do it ; if not, the boy remains the domestic slave of the schoolmaster until he can, by himself. his own collectgoodssufficientto ransom industry, of Karfa,three Moors About a week after the departure of saltand other arrived at Kamalia with a considerable quantity credit from a merwhich theyhad obtained on merchandise, When

a

scholar has

park's

264

had

chant of Fezzan,who

engagement

was

to pay him

in

travels

arrived lately when his price

at Kancaba.

the

goodswere

Their

sold,

of a month. would be in the course Being theyexpected accommodated with two of Karfa's rigidBushreens,theywere huts,and sold their goodsto very greatadvantage. Karfa returned to Kamalia with a On the 24th of January, and thirteen prime slaves which he had purnumber of people, chased. he whom He likewise broughtwith him a young girl had married at Kancaba,as his fourth wife,and had givenher parentsthree primeslaves for her. She was kindlyreceived at the door of the baloon by Karfa's other wives,who conducted their new and copartnerinto one of the best huts, acquaintance which theyhad caused to be swept and whitewashed on purpose which

to receive her.*

My clothes were I

by

almost ashamed

this time

become

so

very

ragged,that

of doors ; but Karfa,on the day after his arrival, generously presentedme with such a was

garment and

to

out

appear

commonly worn in the country. The slaves which Karfa had broughtwith him were all of them prisoners of war ; theyhad been taken by the Bambarran army in the kingdoms of Wassela and Kaarta,and carried to of them had remained three years in irons. Sego,where some From Sego theywere sent, in company with a number of other captives, up the Nigerin two largecanoes, and offered for sale at Yamina,Bammakoo, and Kancaba,at which places the greater number of the captives bartered for gold dust,and the were trousers

as

are

remainder sent forward to Kankaree. Eleven of them from

their

account

confessed to

infancy ; but

that

me

the other two

of their former condition.

They

theyhad

been

slaves

refused to were

give any all very inquisitive

but

they viewed me at firstwith looks of horror,and asked if my countrymen were cannibals. They were repeatedly ;

The to which

Negroeswhitewash is commonly added

their huts with a

little gum.

a

mixture of bone ashes and water,

INTERIOR

THE

OF

265

AFRICA.

very desirous to know what became of the slaves after theyhad I told them that theywere crossed the salt water. employed

but theywould not believe me ; and one the land, cultivating plicity, with great simhis hand upon the ground, of them,putting said, Have you really got such ground as this to set your idea that the whites purchase A deeply-rooted feet upon?" them them, or of selling Negroesfor the purpose of devouring makes that theymay be devoured hereafter, to others, naturally towards the coast with great the slaves contemplate a journey insomuch that the Slatees are forced to keepthem constantly terror, in irons, and watch them very closely to prevent their escape. They are commonly secured by puttingthe rightleg of one, and the left of another into the same pair of fetters. By the fetterswith a string, theyc"an walk,thoughvery supporting by the slowly. Everyfour slaves are likewise fastened together necks with a strong rope of twisted thongs; and in the night times additional pairof fetters is put on their hands,and somean iron chain passedround their necks. a light in

"

Such of them a

differentmanner.

as

evince marks A

of discontent, are

thick billetof wood

secured in

is cut about three

side of it, of the ankle of the slave is bolted to the smooth part by means one a strong iron staple, prong of which passes on each side of

feet long,and

as

being made

bolts

are

upon

one

made

from native

put on by the blacksmith not taken the slaves arrived from Kancaba, and were

iron ; in the soon

smooth notch

All these fetters and

the ankle.

as

a

offuntil the

presentcase

morningon

theywere

for Gambia. which the coflBedeparted

the treatment of the slaves In other respects, stay at Kamalia was far from beingharsh or cruel. led out in their fettersevery

duringtheir

They were

morning to the shade of the

rind tama-

encouragedto play at games of theywere hazard,and singdiverting ; for songs, to keep up their spirits of their situation thoughsome of them sustained the hardships the greaterpartwere with amazingfortitude, very much dejectree,where

pake's

266

in

travels

with ted,and would sit all day in a sort of sullen melancholy, theirirons were their eyes fixed upon the ground. In the evening examined,and their hand fettersput on, after which theywere conducted into two largehuts,where theywere guardedduring all the nightby Karfa's domestic slaves. But notwithstanding of the slaves had the one this,about a week after their arrival, with which he openedthe rings address to procure a small knife, of them cut the rope, and made his escape ; more of his fetters, have got off had theyassistedeach other ; but would probably found himself at liberty than he refused to the slave no sooner fastened round the chain which was stopand assistin breaking the necks of his companions. As all the Slatees and slaves belonging to the cofflewere either at KamaHa of the neighbouring or some now assembled, it might have been expectedthat we should have set villages, for Gambia ; but thoughthe day of our deparout immediately ture was fixed,it was frequently alwaysfound expedientto changeit. Some of the peoplehad not preparedtheir dryprovisions or collectsome ; others had gone to visittheir relations, debts ; and, last of all,it was trifling necessary to consult of whether the day would be a luckyone. On account of one was these,or other such causes, our departure put off"day after day,until the month of Februarywas far advanced,after which allthe Slatees agreedto remain in their presentquarters until the fastmoon And here I may remark, that loss of was over. of no greatimportance in the eyes of a Negro. time is an object of consequence to perform, If he has anything it is a matter of indifferenceto him whether he does it to-dayor to-morrow, or hence ; so long as he can month a or two spendthe present with any degreeof comfort, he giveshimself very little moment about the future.

concern

The

by

fast of Rhamadan

was

observed with great strictness

all the Bushreens ; but instead of

their

example,as

the Moors

did

on

to follow me compelling Karfa similar occasion, a

told

that I

me

was

THE

INTERIOR

at

to liberty

order,however,to manifest I

fasted voluntarily

a

OF

267

AFRICA.

pursue my

own

inclination. In

opinions, respect fortheir religious

days,which was thoughtsufficientto from the reproachful screen me epithetof Kafir. Duringthe fast,all the Slatees belongingto the coffle assembled every morningin Karfa's house,where the schoolmaster read to them lesson from a largefoliovolume, the author of some religious which was of Sheiffa.In the evening, an Arab, of the name such of the

women

three

as

had embraced

Mahomedanism

assembled

and said their prayers publicly at the Misura. They were all dressed in white,and went throughthe different prostrations with becomingsolemnity.Indeed, by their religion prescribed selves duringthe whole fast of Rhamadan, the Negroesbehaved themw^ith the greatest meekness and humility, ing forminga strikwhich contrast to the savage intolerance and brutal bigotry characterise the Moors. at this period the fast month was When almost at an end,the Bushreens assembled at the Misura, to watch moon

new

sometime

for the appearance of the beingrather cloudy, theywere for ; but the evening and a number of them had gone home disappointed,

day,when on a sudden this objectshowed her sharphorns from behind a cloud, delightful of hands,beating of drums, and was welcomed with the clapping is As this moon muskets,and other marks of rejoicing. firing Karfa gave orders that allthe people reckoned extremely lucky, to the coffleshould immediately packup their dryprobelonging visions, with

a

resolution to fast another

and hold themselves the April, the

same

Slatees held month

from Kamalia.

as

a

the

in readiness ; and and fixed consultation,

day

on

on

the 16th of

on

the 19th of

which the coffle should

depart

uneasiness ; that I was long deferred,

This resolutionfreed me

from much

had already been so departure it might stillbe put offuntil the commencement apprehensive towards me of the rainyseason ; and althoughKarfa behaved situation very unpleaI found my with the greatest kindness, for

our

park's

268 The

sant.

Moors, who

in

travels

to me, and the trading unfriendly continued to plotmischief at this time at Kamalia, from the first day of their arrival. Under

Slatees were

againstme

were

I reflectedthat my life in a great measure these circumstances, dependedon the good opinionof an individual who was daily

the Europeans; and I could hearingmalicious storiesconcerning hardlyexpect that he would alwaysjudge with impartiality between

and

me

me,

in

some

hut,or

a

became

at last

Time had, indeed,reconhis countrymen. ciled and a smoky of life, to their mode degree,

scantysupper wearied

gave

no

me

out with

a

great uneasiness

constant

state

; but I

of alarm and

of and felta painful longingfor the manifold blessings anxiety, civiHzed society. On the morningof the 17th,a circumstance occurred which wroughta considerable changein my favour. The three trading since their Moors who had lodgedunder Karfa's protection ever arrival at Kamalia,and had gainedthe esteem of all the Bushreens by an appearance of great sanctity, suddenlypacked up their effects, and, without once thankingKarfa for his kindness towards them, marched over the hillsto Bala. Every one was astonished at this unexpected but the affairwas cleared removal, up in the eveningby the arrivalof the Fezzan merchant from Kancaba (mentioned in p. 263),who assured Karfa that these Moors had borrowed all their salt and goodsfrom him, and had sent for him

he

to

come

told that

to KamaHa

theyhad

and receive payment.

When

fled to the

westward,he wipeda tear from each eye with the sleeve of his cloak, and exclaimed, These shirruhas (robbers) are Mahomedans, but theyare not of two hundred minkallies." From men ; theyhave robbed me was

"

this merchant Mediterranean

I received information of the

capture of

our

by the French,in October 1795. for day of our departure was April19th. The long-wished at lengtharrived, and the Slatees havingtaken the irons from their slaves, assembled with them at the door of Karfa's house. convoy "

THE

where

the bundles

OF

269

AFRICA.

alltied up, and every one its departure from on coffle,

were

The

him. assigned

INTERIOR

had his load

sisted Kamalia,conof twenty-sevenslaves for sale, the propertyof Karfa and

four other Slatees ; but we afterwards joinedby five at were slaves. Maraboo,and three at Bala,making in all thirty-five The

free

fourteen in

number, but most of them had domestic slaves, and the schoolmaster, one or two wives and some who was now upon his return for Woradoo, the place of his nativity, took with him eightof his scholars, so that the number

men

of free

and eight,

Among

were

peopleand

the whole

the freemen

musical talents

were

domestic slaves amounted

amount were

thirtyseventy-three. (singing men),whose to

of the coffle was

six Jillikeas

exerted frequently

either to divert

our

from strangers. When obtain us a welcome or we fatigue, followed for about half a mile from Kamalia we were departed by most of the inhabitants of the town, some of them crying, and others shakinghands with their relationswho were now about to leave them ; and when we had gaineda pieceof rising ground,from which we had a view of Kamalia,allthe people ordered to sit down in one place, to the cofflewere belonging with their faces towards the west, and the townspeople were in another place, with their faces towards* desired to sit down In this situation the schoolmaster, Kamalia. with two of the Slatees, principal having taken their placesbetween the two parties, pronounceda long and solemn prayer; after which making an impression theywalked three times round the coffle, the ground with the ends of their spears, and muttering on somethingby way of (*.harm. When this ceremony was ended, all the peoplebelonging to the coffle sprang up, and without As many set forwards. takinga formal farewell of their friends, the sudden for years in irons, their of walkingquick with heavy loads upon

of the slaves had remained

tion exer-

heads,

and we had not contractions of their legs, spasmodic proceededabove a mile,before it was found necessary to take occasioned

park's

270

two

in

from the rope, and allow them to walk where reached Maraboo, a walled village,

of them

until we

waitingto join the coffle.

were

hours and

travels

to

allow the

then continued

Here

more some

slowly people

stoppedabout two strangerstime to pack up their provisions, reached route to Bala,which town we our

about four in the afternoon.

we

inhabitants of Bala,at this of the year, subsist chiefly which theytake in on fish, season mained great plentyfrom the streams in the neighbourhood.We reThe

here until the afternoon of the next

day,the 20th, when of we proceededto Worumbang, the frontier village to enter Manding towards Jallonkadoo. As we proposed shortly the Jallonka wilderness, the peopleof this village furnished us with great plentyof provisions the morning of the ; and on 21st we entered the woods to the westward of Worumbang. After havingtravelled some littleway, a consultation was held whether we should continue our route throughthe wilderness, or save one a town day'sprovisions by goingto Kinytakooro, in Jallonkadoo. After debatingthe matter for some time,it was agreedthat we should take the road for Kinytakooro ; but it was as that town was a longday's journeydistant, necessary refreshment. to take some Accordingly, every person opened his provision-bag, and broughta handful or two of meal to the placewhere Karfa and the Slatees were sitting.When every had broughthis quota,and the whole was properly one arranged in small gourdshells, the schoolmaster ofiered up a short prayer, the substance of which was, that God and the holyProphet that our might preserve us from robbers and all bad people, fail us, nor our limbs become fatigued. provisions might never This ceremony beingended,every one partook of the meal,and drank a littlewater ; after which we set forward (rather running than walking)until we to the river Kokoro,a branch came of the Senegal, where we halted about ten minutes. The banks of this river are very high; and from the grass and brushwood which had been left by the stream,it was evident

THE

OF

INTERIOR

had

that at this placethe water

271

AFRICA.

risen

than

more

twenty feet

At this time it was perpendicular, duringthe rainyseason. onlya small stream, such as would turn a mill,swarmingwith and the danger fish;and on account of the number of crocodiles, of beingcarried past the ford by the force of the stream in the From this place rainyseason, it is called Kokaro (dangerous). and in the continued to travel with the greatest we expedition, afternoon crossed two

small branches of the Kokoro.

About

a considerable town, sightof Kinytakooro, vated nearlysquare, situated in the middle of a largeand well-cultiuntil the plain. Before we entered the town we halted, During this day's peoplewho had fallen behind came up. and a girl to a Slatee of two slaves, a woman belonging travel, that theycould not keep up with Bala,were so much fatigued the cofifle; whipped,and draggedalong severely they were both when theywere until about three o'clock in the afternoon, affected with vomiting, by which it was discovered that they is by no had eaten clay. This practice uncommon means amongst the Negroes; but whether it arises from a vitiated I from a settled intention to destroy themselves, or appetite, to lie down in the woods, cannot affirm. They were permitted and three peopleremained with them until theyhad rested until past themselves ; but they did not arrive at the town exhausted that the Slatee then so much and were midnight, the woods in their of takingthem across gave up all thoughts

sunset

we

in

came

and determined presentcondition, and wait for another As

this was

the

to return

opportunity. firsttown beyond the

than usual greateretiquette

observed.

was

with them to Bala, limits of

Manding,

Every person

was

marched towards and we his proper station, five the town in a sort of procession, nearlyas follows. In front, to the coffle; these or six singing men, all of them belonging ordered to

were

keep in

followed

by

the other free

fastened in the usual way

by

a

rope

the

slaves, round their necks,four of

people ;

then

came

park's

272

them

to

after of

a

them

came

imtil

proceeded

the

flatter

to

When where

tegi (history) men

;

they

and

day, reached the

gave

coffle, both

night.

cofHe,

and

free

little with

beginning

in

and

accommodated

this

a

small

present,

enslaved,

were

a

with

by

their

ended, all

invited and

to

the

by

the

pened hap-

present

until

provisions

they

master

people some

the

singing had

the

the

den-

our

which of

to

for

the

series,

and

gate,

known

hear of

two

events

was

the

calculated

to

us

backward

lodging

of

we

proceeded

we

circumstance

history

manner

;

women

friendship

round

the

this

extolling

town

publicly

everything

them

the

gathered

every

When

by

rear

the

well

song,

four

each

yards

particular

entered

related

enumerated

loud

their

In

hundred

a

a

the

in

etc.

inhabitants,

people was

Kamalia.

town

other,

this

relating

within

and we

the

;

the

to

the

strangers,

Mandingoes. Bentang,

of

and

Slatees,

the

began

men

vanity

hospitality

of

between

spear

a

slaves,

came

we

singing

the

domestic

wives

in

with

man

a

the

condition,

free

when

and

rope,

travels

of

person

for

of the or

the

THE

INTERIOR

OF

CHAPTER The

273

AFRICA.

XXV.

the Jallonka wilderness Miserable fateofone crosses coffle slaves; arrives at Sooseta ; proceeds to Manna ofthe female Some account ofthe Jallonkas Crosses the main stream of the SenegalBridge construction Arrives at of a singular Malacotta Bemarhable conduct ofthe kingofthe Jaloffs. "

"

"

"

"

"

VV

E

continued at

of the 22d of April, until noon Kinytakooro when we removed to a village about seven miles to the westward, the inhabitants of which,beingapprehensive of hostiUties from the Foulahs of Fooladoo, at this time were employedin the side small temporaryhuts among the rocks, on constructing almost of a highhillclose to the village. The situation was surrounded with highprecipices, impregnable, beingeverywhere where the natives had lefta pathway excepton the eastern side, sufficientto allow one person at a time to ascend. Upon the brow of the hill, this path,I observed over immediately told me several heaps of large loose stones,which the people intended to be thrown down the Foulahs if they were upon should attemptthe hill. At daybreak, the on

departedfrom this village, in the course and entered the Jallonka wilderness. We passed, of the morning, the ruins of two small towns, which had lately been burnt by the Foulahs. The fire must have been- very 23d,we

for I observed that the walls of many of the huts were intense, and appearedat a distance as if covered with vitrified, slightly to the river Wonda, About ten o'clockwe came a red varnish. which is somewhat largerthan the river Kokoro; but the T

park's

274

stream

was

travels

at this time rather

in

muddy, which

by amazing shoals of fish. They

was

occasioned

seen

and in such abundance in all directions,

water

itselftasted and smelt

the river,Karfa

Karfa assured

fishy. As

soon

orders that all the

gave

were

me

indeed

that I fancied the as

we

had crossed

peopleof

the cofile

and travel in their proper keep close together, placedin guidesand young men were accordingly

should in future station; the the van, the in the rear.

and slaves in the centre, and the free men In this order we travelled with uncommon dition expe-

women

with througha woody but beautiful country, interspersed with partridges, and abounding of hilland dale, a pleasing variety arrived at a most and deer,until sunset, when we guinea-fowl, and neck having romantic stream called Co-meissang.My arms been exposedto the sun duringthe whole day,and irritatedby dress in walking,were the rubbing of my now very much inflamed and covered with blisters; and I was happyto embrace while the cofilerested on the bank of this river, the opportunity, with This practice, to bathe myselfin the stream. together the cool of the evening,much diminished the inflammation. halted About three miles to the westward of the Co-meissang we in a thick wood, and kindled our firesfor the night. We were travelled all by this time very much fatigued, as I judged, having, miles ; but no this day thirty heard to complain. person was Whilst supper was Karfa made of the slaves one preparing, break

branches

from

When the trees for my bed. we had finished our supper of kouskous, moistened with some boiling all laydown to sleep we water, and put the slaves in irons, ; but we disturbed in the nightby the howhng were frequently some

of wild beasts, and

April24th.

we

found ,thesmall brown

Before

some, ants very trouble-

ing daybreakthe Bushreens said their mornprayers, and most of the free peopledrank a littlemoemng (a sort of gruel), part of which was likewise given to such of the slaves as appearedleast able to sustain the fatigues of the "

One

day. some as

OF

INTERIOR

THE

of Karfa's female slaves was

gruelwas day dawned

offered to set

we

very

her,she refused

out, and

275

AFRICA.

and sulky,

to drink it.

travelled the whole which

wild and

when

As

soon

morning

feet

were rockycountry, by very my and I was that I should not be much bruised, sadlyapprehensive in a able to keep up with the coEfleduringthe day ; but I was when I observed that relieved from this anxiety, greatmeasure exhausted than myself. In particular, the others were more slave who had refused victuals in the morning began woman and complain of painsin her legs. to lagbehind, now dreadfully and taken from her,and givento another slave, Her load was ordered to keep in the front of the coflfle.About eleven she was of the people were some as we by a small rivulet, o'clock, resting discovered a hive of bees in a hollow tree,and theywere ceeding proI ever the largest to obtain the honey,when swarm the peopleof the cofifle, made us beheld,flew out, and attacking and I believe was flyin alldirections. I took the alarm first, the onlyperson who escapedwith impunity. When mies eneour thoughtfit to desist from pursuing us, and every person it was he had received, was employedin pickingout the stings whose name discovered that the poor woman above-mentioned, over

was

a

Nealee,was

not

come

up ; and

as

many

of the slaves in

their retreat had lefttheir bundles behind for

sary them,it became necesand bringthem. In order to

persons to return fire was do this with safety, set to the grass, a considerable way ously and the wind driving the fire furito the eastward of the hive, some

the party pushedthroughthe smoke, and recovered along, the bundles. They likewise broughtwith them poor Nealee, whom theyfound lyingby the rivulet. She was very much and had creptto the stream, in hopesto defend herself exhausted, her body,but this proved from the bees by throwing water over for she ineffectual, When

the

they could,she

was

stung in the

Slatees had was

washed

most

pickedout

dreadful the

manner.

stingsas far

with water, and then rubbed

as

witii

park's

276

bruised leaves ; but the wretched another step. As at vain, the whip was

refused obstinately

woman

that declaring proceedany farther,

walk

in

travels

she would

entreaties and

rather die than

threats

lengthapplied;and

to

used

were

after

in

bearing

she started up, and walked with tolefew strokes, rable a patiently for four or five hours longer, when she made expedition but was so very weak an attemptto run away from the cofHe, in the grass. that she felldown Though she was unable to second time applied, the whip was but without effect; a rise, upon which Karfa desired two of the Slatees to placeher upon the ass which carried our dryprovisions ; but she could not sit it was found impossible erect,and the ass beingvery refractory, The Slatees, to carry her forward in that manner. however, to abandon her,the day'sjourneybeingnearly were unwilling ended ; theytherefore made a sort of litterof bamboo canes, and tied on it with slips of bark. placed, upon which she was This litterwas carried upon the heads of two slaves, one walking before the other,and they were followed by two who others, relieved them occasionally. In this manner the woman was carried forward until it was

water, at the foot of

dark,when

we

reached

a

stream

of

highhillcalled Gankaran-Kooro,and here and set about preparing we our stoptfor the night, supper. As had eaten onlyone handful of meal since the preceding we night, and travelled all day in a hot sun, many who had of the slaves, loads upon their heads,were of and some fatigued, very much them snaj"ttheirfingers, which among the Negroes is a sure sign of desperation. The Slatees immediately put them allin irons ; and such of them as had evinced signs of great despondency were kept apartfrom the rest,and had their hands tied. In the morningtheywere found greatly recovered. April25th. At daybreakpoor Nealee was awakened ; but her Hmbs were become so stiffand painful that she could now a

"

neither walk upon

stand ; she was therefore lifted like a corpse the back of the ass, and the Slatees endeavoured to secure nor

INTERIOR

THE

OF

277

AFRICA.

her in that situation, by

her hands together under the fastening ass's neck,and her feet under the belly, with longshpsof bark ; but the ass was so very unruly, that no sort of treatment could induce him to proceedwith his load ; and as Nealee made no she was quickly exertion to preventherselffrom falling, thrown off, and had one of her legsmuch bruised. Every attemptto carry her forward beingthus found ineffectual, the generalcry of the cofHe was, hang-tegi^ cut her throat,'' kang-tegi,cut her throat, and therefore an operationI did not wish to see performed, "

onwards

marched walked

above

a

with the foremost of the coffle. I had not

mile,when

of Karfa's domestic slaves came

one

with poor Nealee's garment upon and exclaimed Nealee affeeleeta (Nealeeis

up to me,

the end of his bow,

lost).I asked him

whether the Slatees had

givenhim the garment as a reward for her throat ? He replied, that Karfa and the schoolmaster cutting would

that measure, but had lefther on the she soon and was perished, undoubtedly probably

not consent

to

road,where devoured by wild beasts.

sad fate of this wretched woman, the notwithstanding the minds on outcrybefore mentioned,made a strongimpression The

and the schoolmaster fasted the whole of the coffle,

of the whole

ensuingday and silence,

in consequence

soon

of

it.

afterwards crossed the

We

proceededin deep river Furkoomah,which

We now travelledwith largeas the river Wonda. he might otherwise greatexpedition, every one beingapprehensive

was

about

as

It was, however,with with the fate of poor Nealee. I threw away my that I could keep up, although greatdifficulty meet

spear, and

About us

to

noon

pass

everythingthat could in the least obstruct me. but theysuffered herd of elephants, a large saw we halted near and in the eveningwe a unmolested,

thicket of bamboo, but found no four miles farther to to proceed

night. We miles. twenty-six

for the

had

water, so

that

we

were

forced

small stream, where we stopt marched this day,as I judged, about a

park's

278

in

travels

morningtwo of the schoolmaster's pupils and one of the slaves of painsin their legs, soles of his feet beingxery much blisteredand and about eleven We inflamed. notwithstanding, proceeded, o'clock beganto ascend a rockyhill called Boki-Kooro,and it was pasttwo in the afternoon before we reached the level ground the most rockyroad we had yet This was on the other side. feet much. and it hart our In a short time we enconntered, arrived at a prettylargeriver called Boki,which we forded ; it April26th. compkinedmuch walked lame,the "

This

smooth and clear over

ran

a

bed of whinstone.

About

a

mile

of the river, to a road which leads to we came the north-east towards Gadou, and seeingthe marks of many that a horses'feet upon the soft sand,the Slatees conjectiu*ed to the westward

had lately rode that party of plunderers that our

to fallupon

some

and lest theyshould discover upon their return had passed, and attempt to pursue us by the marks of

of Gadou

town

way,

we

;

the cofflewas feet,

ordered to

and disperse,

travel in

a

loose

throughthe high grass and bushes. A littlebefore it was dark,havingcrossed the ridgeof hills to the westward of lie river Boki,we came sand to a well called cuUongqui(white and here we rested for the night. well), in the mornfrom the well early ing, April27tL VfQ departed and walked on with the greatest in hopesof reaching alacrity, before night. The road duringthe forenoon led a town About two o'clock Uuongh extensive thickets of dry bamboos. called Nunkolo,where we were each of to a stream came we with a handful of meal,which,according us to a superregaled stitious manner

"

not to be custom, was with water from this stream.

eaten

until it was

About

firstmoistened

four o'clock we

reached

situated in the districtof Sooseeta,a small Jallonka village allthat tract of countrylyingalong Kullo,which comprehends the banks of the Black River,or main branch of the Senegal.

These

were

leftthe

the firsthuman

to village

habitations we

the westward

of

had

seen

since

we

Kinytakooro, havingtravelled

THE

in the

OF

279

AFRICA.

of the last fivedaysupwardsof

course

Here, after

INTERIOK

one

hundred miles.

great deal of entreaty,we were providedwith huts to sleep told us in,but the master of the village plainly that he could not give us any provisions, as there had lately in this part of the country. He assured been a great scarcity that before theyhad gathered in their presentcrops the whole us inhabitants of Kullo had been for twenty-ninedayswithout a

tastingcorn, during which time they supportedthemselves entirely upon the yellowpowder which is found in the pods of called by the natives, the nitta, of mimosa, and so a species the seeds of the bamboo cane, which, w^hen properly upon like rice. As our taste very much pounded and dressed, dry considerable quantity of not were a provisions yet exhausted, dressed for supper, and many of the villagers kouskous was were invited to take part of the repast; but theymade a very bad for in the nighttheyseized upon one return for this kindness, of the schoolmaster's boys,who had fallen asleepunder the The boy fortunately Bentang tree,and carried him away. and setting awoke before he was far from the village, up a loud who carried him put his hand upon his mouth, the man scream, and ran with him into the woods ; but afterwards, understanding whose placeof residence that he belonged to the schoolmaster, he thought, I suppose, that is onlythree days' journeydistant, he could not

retain him

a

slave without

the schoolmaster's

off the boy'sclothes and stripped

therefore

and knowledge, him

as

mitted per-

to return.

Earlyin

April28th. "

the

morningwe

seeta,and about ten o'clock came

to

Manna, the inhabitants of which

were

an

departedfrom unwalled

town

Soocalled

employedin collecting

in this the fruit of the nitta trees,which are very numerous neighbourhood.The pods are long and nan'ow, and contain a few black seeds ;

in enveloped

the meal

the flour of

itselfis of

and sulphur,

has

a

tioned mealypowder before menresembling brightyellowcolour,

a

sw^eet

the fine

taste mucilaginous

; when

park's

280 itselfit is

travels

in

mixed

clammy, but when

eaten

by

water

it constitutes a very

with

milk

or

article of and nourishing pleasant

diet.

languageof the peopleof Manna

The

spokenallover

that extensive and

Some

of the words have

kadoo.

is the

that is

same

countrycalled Jallonhilly to the Mana greataffinity

dingo,but the natives themselves consider it as a distinct Their numerals are these: One,kidding; two,jidding ; language. soolo; Hix, sent ; seYen, soolo ma 5arra three, ; {om^nani; fiYe, soolo ma sarra nam ; ten, nuff. ; nine,soolo ma Jiddtng ; eight, like the Mandingoes, are The Jallonkas, governedby a who are, in a great measure, indepennumber of pettychiefs, dent of each other.

They have

no

sovereign ; and the of friendship as to assisteach common

seldom upon such terms in war The chief of Manna, with other even time. of his people, accompaniedus to the banks of the chiefsare

a

number

or Bating, which we Black River (a principal branch of the Senegal), crossed upon a bridge of bamboos,of a very singular construction. The river at this placeis smooth and deep,and has very littlecurrent. Two tall trees,when tied together by the tops, are sufficiently longto reach from one side to the other ; the roots resting in the water. and the tops floating upon the rocks, When a few trees have been placedin this direction, theyare covered with dry bamboos,so as to form a floating with bridge, a sloping at each end,where the trees rest upon the gangway rocks. This bridge is carried away every year by the swelling of the river in the rainyseason, and is constantly rebuilt by the inhabitantsof Manna, who, on that account,expecta small

tribute from every passenger. In the afternoon we passedseveral which

could

we

procure

and lodging;

a

received information that two near

a

town

called

This induced

us

hundred Jallonkas had assembled

Melo, with

to alterour

of at none villages, in the twilight we

a

view

course, and

to we

plunderthe

coffle.

travelled with great

THE

INTERIOR

OF

281

AFRICA.

when we approacheda town called secrecy until midnight, Koba. Before we entered the town, the names of all the called over, and a freeman to the cofflewere peoplebelonging and

three slaves

found

were

be

to

missing.Every

concluded that the slaves had immediately and made

their escape. peopleshould go back as far to

find his

slaves. in

body, or

as

collect

In the meantime fieldnear

It

murdered

the freeman,

thereforeagreedthat six

was

the last village, and information

some

person

the cofiBewas

endeavour

the concerning

ordered to lieconcealed

largenitta tree, and nobody to speak except in a whisper. It was towards morning before the six the slaves. men or returned, havingheard nothingof the man As none of us had tasted victuals for the lasttwenty-four hours, it was agreedthat we should go into Koba, and endeavour to We entered the town provisions. accordingly procure some before it was quiteday, and Karfa purchasedfrom the chief of beads, of grounda considerable quantity man, forthree strings a

cotton

"nuts, which

we

a

roasted and

ate

for breakfast ;

we

wards after-

were

providedwith huts,and rested here for the day. About eleven o'clock, the to our great joy and surprise, freeman and slaves, who had partedfrom the cofHe the preceding entered the town. One of the slaves, it seems, had hurt night, his foot, and the nightbeingvery dark,theysoon of lost sight the coffle. The freeman,as soon he found himself alone as with the slaves, of his own was aware danger,and insisted on ing them in irons. The slaves were at firstrather unwillputting he threatened to stab them one to submit ; but when by and he with his spear, they made no further resistance, one when he remained with them among the bushes until morning, let them out of irons, in hopesof hearing and came to the town which route

the cofflehad

taken.

The

information that

we

the Jallonkas, who intended to rob the concerning forced to remain this day confirmed, and we were was coffle,

received

here until the afternoon of the 30th,when

Karfa hired

a

num-

park's

282

travels

in

called to a village peopleto protectus, and we proceeded the day following, on Tinkingtang.Departingfrom this village crossed a highridgeof mountains to the west of the we a roughstony countryuntil Black River,and travelled over small village in the a sunset, when we arrived at Lingicotta,

ber of

Here

of Woradoo. district

we

"

shook out the lasthandful of meal

bags; this being the second day (since dry-provision crossed the Black River)that we had travelledfrom morning we morsel of food. without tasting until night, one May 2d. We departedfrom Lingicotta ; but the slaves halted for the nightat a village we beingvery much fatigued, about nine miles to the westward,and procured some provisions who now sent forward throughthe interestof the schoolmaster, to Malacotta, his native town, to inform his friends a messenger of his arrival in the country,and to desire them to provide the of victuals to entertain the cofflefor two or necessary quantity three days. and about noon arrived* May 3d. We set out for Malacotta, at a village, near of water which flows to a considerable stream from

our

"

"

the westward.

Here

determined to stopfor the return of the messenger which had been sent to Malacotta the day before ; and as the natives assured me there were crocodiles in this no stream, I went and bathed myself. Very few peoplehere can swim

into

; a

head.

see

for theycame

pool,where About

we

in numbers

they

to dissuade

said the water

me

would

from come

venturing over

my

o'clock the messenger returned from Malacotta, and the schoolmaster'selder brother beingimpatient to him, came alongwith the messenger to meet him at this village. The

two

interview between

the two

who brothers,

had

not

each other for nine years, was very natural and affecting. fell They sometime upon each other's neck,and it was before either of them could speak. At when the schoolmaster seen

length,

had

a

and

turninground""

httle recovered

he himself,

took his brother

This is the

by the hand, man," said he, pointingto

THE

Karfa, who pointedhim

has been

"

received.

out

This

part are made and

my

283

AFRICA.

father in

Manding ;

I would

have

but my heart was too full. reached Malacotta in the evening, where we w^ere well

We

and

OF

INTERIOR

of

sooner

is

an

to you,

unwalled

split cane,

town

;

twisted into

with mud. Here over plastered each day presented with a were

the huts for the most a

we

sort of

wicker-work, remained three days,

bullock from

likewise well entertained

the

townspeople, who appear to be very active and industrious. They make very in water, and then addinga good soap by boiling ground-nuts lyeof wood ashes. They likewise manufacture excellent iron, which they carry to Bondou to barter for salt. A partyof the of returned from a tradingexpedition townspeoplehad lately this kind,and broughtinformation concerning between a war Almami Abdulkader,king of Foota Torra,and Damel, king of ;

we

w^ere

the Jaloffs. The

events

of this war

soon

by

the schoolmaster

became

a

favourite

sation singing topicof convermen, and the common in all the kingdoms bordering upon the Senegaland I shallhere Gambia ; and as the account is somewhat singular, abridgeit for the reader's information. The king of Foota had sent his religion, Torra,inflamed with a zeal for propagating an embassyto Damel, similar to that which he had sent to Kas-

with subject

son,

as

the

related in page

60.

The

ambassador,on

the present

Bushreens, accompaniedby two of the principal who carried each a largeknife, fixed on the top of a long pole. As soon he had procuredadmission into the presence of as he ordered of his sovereign, Damel, and announced the pleasure was occasion,

presentthe emblems of his mission. The two knives were laid before Damel, and the ambassador accordingly explainedhimself as follows: "With this knife,"said he, Abdulkader will condescend to shave the head of Damel, if the Bushreens

to

"

"

Damel

will embrace

the Mohamedan

faith; and w4th this other

Abdulkader will cut the throat of Damel, ifDamel refuses knife, to embrace

it; take your choice."

Damel

told the coolly

ambas-

park's

284 sador that he had his head

no

shaved,nor

in

travels

choice to make

;

he neither chose to have

his throat cut ; and with this answer

the

dismissed. Abdulkader took his measures civilly and with a powerful army invaded DameFs country. accordingly, filledup their wells, and villages The inhabitants of the towns and abandoned carriedoff their effects, their provisions, destroyed he was led he approached.By this means their dwellings as until he had advanced three days' from placeto place, jour^ on met with ney into the countryof the Jaloffs. He had,indeed, had suffered so much from the no opposition ; but his army had died by the way. of water, that several of his men scarcity This induced him to direct his march towards a watering-place in the woods,where his men, havingquenchedtheir thirst, and with fatigue, to sleep beingovercome laydown carelessly among the bushes. In this situation they were attacked by Damel before daybreak, and completely routed. Many of them Avere to death as theylayasleep trampled by the Jaloffhorses ; others killed in attempting were their escape; and a still to make taken prisoners. greaternumber were Among the latter was Abdulkader himself. This ambitious or rather frantic prince, who, but a month before had sent the threatening to message Damel, was now himself led into his presence, a miserable captive. ambassador

was

The behaviour of Damel

by

the

men singing

on

this occasion is never

but in terms

tioned men-

of the

highest approbation indeed so extraordinary in an African prince, ; that the reader may find it difficult to givecredit to the recital. When his royalprisoner was broughtbefore him in irons,and thrown upon the ground,the magnanimous Damel, instead of his foot upon his neck, and stabbing setting him with his spear, to custom in such cases, addressed him as follows :" according Abdulkader, answer this question me If the chance of war :" had placedme in your situation, and you in mine, how would and it was

"

you have treated

?"

"I

would

have thrust my spear into returned Abdulkader with your heart," great firmness ; " and I me

INTERIOR

THE

know

that

spear

battle,

life

to

kill

be

kader months

the

at

;

their of

Negroes

nine

by

the

with

;

Gambia

by

the

slaves,

of

by

to

the

it

which

it

who

West

taken

were

in

the

Indies.

woods,

me

at

prisoners and

and

to

I

by

the

carried

three

restored

and

Malacotta

along

for

listened

at

Goree

then Abdul-

slave

a

my

dom king-

own

appear,

may

me

French

as

not,

as

you

you."

of

Torra,

story

to

will

your

Damel

Foota

told

was

retain

have

by

Europeans ;

with in

in

bring

nor

I

in

worked

related the

will

disposing

and

this

towns,

;

in

it

dipping

neighbours,

period,

as

;

I

your

of

of

of

some

watering-place me

of

to

way

afterwards

was

;

proper

Strange

truth

it

dangerous

subjects

killed

woods.

presence

your

inhabitants

king. the

that

Darnel

by

my

the

but

your

said

stain

up

in

blood,

retained,

end

of

solicitations

doubt

the

accordingly

was

them

of

build

fell

cold

of

deeper

a

so,"

Not

"

blood

not

who

longer

consider

will

would

perceive

no

it

give

in

you

the

with

now

this

I

until will

the

could

me."

awaits

thousands

therefore,

I

red

but

;

the

slave,

indeed

I

and

own

your

fate

is

"

my

similar

a

285

AFRICA.

OF

the to

no

the on

confirmed

and

Abdulkader, the

same

ship

park's

286

travels

XXVL

CHAPTEE The

caravan

to Konkadoo^ and proceeds

Its arrival at

"

in

Incidents

on

the Faleme River

crosses

Tamhacunda

Kirwani, and Baniserile,

the road

"

A

matrimonial

case

"

The

"

caravan

and arrives at throughmany towns and villages, proceeds Passes through Medina^ the hanks of the Gambia" on length the capital stopsat Jindey The Auof Woolli,and finally Various to Fisania thor,accompanied byKarfa,proceeds to his departure from Africa Takes his occurrences previous of his voyage passage in an American ship Short account to Great Britain by way ofthe West Indies. "

^

"

"

"

UN

May we departedfrom Malacotta,and having we crossed the "a lee, "Honey River,"a branch of the Senegal, where arrived in the eveningat a walled town called Bintingala, in one rested two days. From thence, we day more, we proceeded situated at the bottom of a to Dindikoo, a small town from which this districtis named Konkadoo, highridgeof hills, These hills are very productive the country of mountains." shewn a small quantity of this metal which had of gold. I was collected; the grainswere but been lately about the usual size, much flatterthan those of Handing,and were found in white At this quartz,which had been broken to pieces by hammers. I met with a Negro,whose hair and skin were town of a dull the 7tliof

"

white

colour.

SpanishWest

He

was

Indies

of that sort which

are

called in the

skin is or white Negroes. The Albinos, cadaverous and unsightly, and the natives considered this complexion (Ibelieve truly)as the effectof disease.

THE

OF

INTERIOR

287

AFRICA.

11th." At

after a toilsome

daybreakwe departedfrom Dindikoo,and day'stravel arrived in the eveningat Satadoo,

the

districtof the

May

of a capital

same

name.

This town

w^as

merly for-

of considerable extent ; but many families had leftit in of the predatory incursions of the Foulahs of Foota consequence

Jalla,who

made

it

to come practice secretly throughthe and even woods and carry off peoplefrom the corn-fields, from In the afternoon of the 12th,we the town. the wells near which I had formerly crossed the Faleme River,the same crossed in my journey eastward. This river, at this season at Bondou forded at this place, the stream beingonly of the year, is easily about two feet deep. The water is very pure, and flows rapidly over a bed of sand and gravel. We lodgedfor the nightat a called Medina, the sole propertyof a Mandingo small village has been merchant,who, by a longintercourse with Europeans, of their customs. His victuals were induced to adopt some builtafter and even his houses were served up in pewter dishes, the fashion of the Englishhouses on the Gambia. to depart, May 13th. In the morning,as we were preparing crossed Serawoolli traders, to some a cofileof slaves belonging the capiand agreedto proceedwith us to Baniserile, the river, tal of Dentila,a very longday'sjourneyfrom this place. We and travelled with great expediset out together, tion accordingly throughthe woods until noon, when one of the Serawoolli slaves droptthe load from his head,for which he was smartly but he had not proceeded whipped. The load was replaced, a

"

above

a

second time,for which he punishment. After this he travelledin great

mile before he let it fall a

received the

same

when we stopt to breathe a little painuntil about two o'clock, hot. The poor by a poolof water, the day being remarkably slave was exhausted,that his master was so now completely from the rope, for he laymotionless on to release him obliged undertook to remain with the ground. A Serawoolli, therefore, him, and endeavour to bringhim to the town duringthe cool of

park's

288 the

in

travels

continued our route,and the meanwhile we arrived at Baniserile late in the hard day's travel,

night. In

after a very

evening. of

One

.

Slatees

our

was

a

from which native of this place,

This man invited me to go absent three years. with him to his house,at the gate of which his friends met him of joy shakinghands with him, embracing with many expressions As soon and dancingbefore him. as him, and singing he had been

"

he had seated himself upon a

woman

young

and calabash,

a

(hisintended kneelingdown

by the threshold of his door, bride) broughta littlewater in a

mat

before him, desired him to wash

with a tear of joy the girl, his hands ; when he had done this, this being considered in her eyes, drank the water sparkling ment. and attachthe greatest proofshe could givehim of her fidelity "

About who

had

been

eighto'clock

the

left in the woods and

told

the evening,

same

to take

that he

Serawoolli

of the

fatigued dead ; the general killed him, or left

care

us was slave,returned however, was that he himself had opinion, him to perishon the road,for the Serawoollies

said to be

are

cruel in their treatment of slaves than the Manmore infinitely dingoes.We remained at Baniserile two days,in order to and some other articlesfor purchasenative iron.Shea butter, sale to

on

his

the Gambia

house,and who

havingobtained very

;

and here the Slatee who

me

possessedthree slaves, part of the coffie,

information that the

low, determined

had invited

to

separatefrom

priceon

the coast

us, and remain

was

with his

slaveswhere he was, untilan opportunity should oflerof disposing of them to advantage, givingus to understand that he should with the young completehis nuptials

woman

before

mentioned,

in the meantime. and May 16th." We departedfrom Baniserile, travelled throughthick woods until noon, when we saw at a distance the of Julifunda, town but did not approachit,as we proposed to rest for the nightat a largetown called Kirwani,which we

THE

INTERIOR

OF

289

AFRICA.

reached about four o'clock in the afternoon. This town stands in a valley, and the country,for more than a mile round it, is cleared of wood and well cultivated. The inhabitants appear be very active and industrious, and seemed to have canied the system of agriculture to some for they degreeof perfection, collectthe dung of their cattle into large heapsduringthe dry to

season, for the purpose

of

manuringtheir land with it at the I saw nothinglike this in any other part of proper time. Africa. Near the town several smelting are from furnaces, which the natives obtain very good iron. They afterwards hammer the metal into small bars,about a foot in length and two inches in breadth, of which bars is sufficient one to make two Mandingo corn hoes. On the morningafter our arrival, visited by a Slatee of this place, who informed Karfa we were that among slaves he had lately some was a native purchased, of Foota Jalla, and as that countrywas at no great distance, he could not safely lest employhim in the labours of the field, he should effecthis escape. The of exchanging this slave for one

Slatee

was

therefore desirous

of

and offered some Karfa's, cloth and Shea butter to induce Karfa to complywith the proposal, which was The Slatee s ent a accepted. thereupon boy order in to the slave to bringhim a few ground-nuts. question

The

poor

creature

soon

afterwards entered the court in w^hich

of what was negociating, sitting, havingno suspicion until the master caused the gate to be shut,and told him to sit down. the gate The slave now his danger, and perceiving saw to be shut upon him, threw down the nuts, and jumped over the fence. He was immediately pursuedand overtaken by the after who broughthim back,and secured him in irons, Slatees, we

were

which

one

of Karfa's slaves The

but dejected,

was

course

and he became subsided,

change. ex-

at first very much captivewas of a few dayshis melancholy gradually at lengthas cheerful as any of his

unfortunate

in the

released and delivered in

companions. u

park's

290

of the 20th,we the morning wilderness of two days'journey. The

Departingfrom Kirwani entered

the Tenda

w^oods

very

were

peopleand Most

of the

of scarlet cloth

demand

over

for slaves

a

coffle of

the

twenty-six

the Gambia.

muskets,and had broad belts and Europeanhats upon their shoulders,

They

their heads.

met

returningfrom

asses

armed

were

men

country shelved towards

o'clock we

ten

loaded

seven

on

the

thick,and

About

south-west.

in

travels

with

informed

us

that there

the coast,as

on

was

very

vessel had

no

little

arrived for

the Serawoollies, who had past. On hearingthis, themselves travelledwith us from the Faleme river, separated the and their slaves from the coffle. They had not, they said, some

months

until a vessel their slaves in Gambia maintaining and were to sellthem to disadvantage should arrive, unwilling ; theytherefore departedto the northward for Kajaaga. We continued our route throughthe Avilderness, and travelled all day througha ruggedcountry,covered with extensive thickets At sunset, to our greatjoy,we arrived at a poolof of bamboo. water near tabba tree,whence the placeis called Tabbaa large

means

of

gee, and here

rested

we

of the year is by

a

few hours.

The

water

at

this season

in these woods, and as the plentiful hot, Karfa proposedto travel in the insufferably no

means

days were about eleven o'clock the slaves were taken night. Accordingly, and the peopleof the cofflereceived orders to out of their irons, as well to prevent the slaves from attempting keep close together, to escape,

as

on

account

of the wild beasts.

until daybreak, when great alacrity

had

it was

We

travelledwith

discovered that

a

free

partedfrom the cofflein the night; her name was called until the woods resounded, but no answer being given, she that we had either mistaken conjectured the road,or that a lion had seized her unperceived.At lengthit w^as agreedthat four peopleshould go back a few miles to a small rivulet, w^here of the cofflehad stoppedto drink as we some passedit in the night,and that the coffle should wait for their return. The

woman

THE

OF

291

AFRICA.

back with highbefore the peoplecame the woman, whom theyfound lyingfast asleep by the stream. We now resumed our journey, and about eleven o'clock reached called Tambacunda, where we were well received. a walled town Here we remained four days, which was account of a palaver on held on the following occasion : Modi Lemina,one of the Slatees had formerly married a woman of this belongingto the cofHe, sun

was

about

INTERIOR

an

hour

"

towm, who

had borne him two

Manding,and account

remained

of himself

there

children ; he afterw^ardswent

eightyears,

duringall

that time

without to his

to

sendingany deserted wdfe,

who, seeingno prospectof his return, at the end of three

years

had married another man, to whom she had likewise borne two children. Lemina now claimed his wife, but the second husband refused to deliver her up, insisting that,by the laws of Africa, when a man has been three years absent from his wife,without is at liberty the woman to givingher notice of his beingalive, tigated invesmarry again. After allthe circumstances had been fully determined that in an assembly of the chief men, it was either to her choice, and be at liberty the wife should make return to the firsthusband,or continue with the second,as she

Favourable as this determination alone should think proper. she found it a difficult to the lady, matter to make was up her time for consideration, but I think I could mind, and requested

that first lovew^ould carry the day. Lemina was indeed perceive richer. but he was also much somew^hat older than his rival, What weightthis circumstance had in the scale of his wife's I pretend not to say. affections, cunda, from TambaOn the morning of the 26th,as we departed Karfa

observed

farther to the westward

to

me

that there

than this town.

were

I had

no

Shea trees

collected and

broughtwith me from Manding the leaves and flowers of this bruised on the road that I thought so greatly tree,but theywere it best to gatheranother specimenat this place. The appearance the Shea tree in the natural of the fruit evidently places

park's

292 order of

and Sapotoe,

it has

travels

some

in

resemblance

to

the mudhuca

Charles Hamilton, in the Asiatic tree,described by Lieutenant About one o'clock we reached SibiKesearches,vol. i., p. 300. the character ; but the inhabitants having a walled village killin, and of beingmuch addicted towards strangers, of inhospitality did not think proper to enter the gate. We rested we to theft, a

short time under

was

dark,when

we

a

tree,and then continued

route

until it

nightby a small stream Next day the road led over a and where risinginto hills,

halted for the

runningtowards the Gambia. and

our

rocky country,every aboundingwith monkeys and wild beasts. In the rivulets of fish. This was a very hard among the hills we found plenty reached the and it was not until sunset that we day's journey, of Koomboo, near to which are the ruins of a large town, village The inhabitants of Koomboo, like destroyed by war. formerly that strangers have so bad a reputation those of Sibikillin, rested for the night seldom lodgein the village accordingly ; we in the fields, where we erected temporaryhuts for our protection, there beinggreatappearance of rain. at a May 28th. We departedfrom Koomboo, and slept Foulah town about seven miles to the westward ; from which, the day following, on havingcrossed a considerable branch of the Gambia, called Neola Koba, we reached a well-inhabited part of the country. Here are several towns within sightof each other, called Tenda, but each is distinguished collectively also by its particular We lodgedat one of them called name. Koba Tenda,where we remained the day following, in order to procure provisions for our support in crossing the Simbani woods. On the 30th we reached Jallacotta, considerable a town, but much infested by Foulah banditti, who come through the woods from Bondou, and steal everything theycan laytheir hands on. A few days before our arrival they had stolen and on the day following twenty head of cattle, made a second but were beaten off, and one of them taken prisoner. attempt, mid

"

THE

Here

one

INTERIOR

OF

293

AFRICA.

of the slaves belonging to the

who had travelled cofHe,

found unable with greatdifficulty for the last three days,was to proceedany farther ; his master (a singingman) proposed

exchangehim townspeople.The

therefore to of the

until the bundles

readyto depart;

were

when

for

a

poor

alltied up

girlbelongingto one girlwas ignorantof her fate in the morning, and the coffle young

comingwith

other young women took her by the hand and some

the coffleset out, her master delivered her to the singing Never man.

to

see

was

a

face of

serenity

suddenlychanged into one of the deepestdistress; the her head, terror she manifested on having the load put upon with and the rope fastened round her neck, and the sorrow which she bade adieu to her companions, were trulyaffecting. About nine o'clock we crossed a large plaincovered with ciboa of palm), and came to the river Nerico, a branch trees (aspecies more

of the Gambia.

This

was

but

a

small river at this time,but

to travellers. As soon dangerous the singing had crossed this river, men beganto vociferate as w^e of their joy at havinggot safe into a particular song, expressive the west country,or, as theyexpressed it,the land ofthe setting and the soila found to be very level, The country was sun. In the afternoon it rained hard, mixture of clayand sand. to the common and we had recourse Negro umbrella,a large defends ciboa leaf, which,beingplacedupon the head,completely the whole body from the rain. We lodgedfor the nightunder tabba tree,near the ruins of a village.On the shade of a large crossed a stream called NouHco, and the morning following we myselfonce more to my infinitejoy,I saw about two o'clock, beingdeep the banks of the Gambia, which at this place, on that a little told me and smooth,is navigable ; but the people lower down, the stream is so shallow that the cofflesfrequently to this opposite it on foot. On the south side of the river, cross called Toombi Toorila. is a largeplainof clayey ground, place, lost,it It is a sort of morass, in which peopleare frequently

in the

rainyseason

it is often

294

PARK

than

beingmore we

met

a

a

IN

day'sjourneyacross

and two

man

S TRAVELS

women,

it.

with bundles

In the afternoon of cotton

cloth

to They were going,theysaid,for Dentila, of that articleon the iron,there beinga greatscarcity purchase A littlebefore it was dark,we arrived at a village Gambia. in the kingdomof Woolli,called Seesukunda. Near this village of nitta trees,and the slaves in passing there are great plenty along had collectedlargebunches of the fruit; but such was of the inhabitants that theywould not permit the superstition into the village.They had been any of the fruitto be brought would happento the place told,theysaid,that some catastrophe lived upon nittas and neglected to cultivate com. when people June 2d. We departedfrom Seesukunda,and passeda of which was the cofflepermitted number of villages, to at none all very much four fatigued stop,althoughwe were ; it was o'clock in the afternoon before we reached Baraconda,where rested one day. Departing from Baraconda on the morning we of the 4th,we reached in a few hours Medina, the capital of the from whom the reader may recollect kingof WooUi's dominions, I received a hospitable in the beginning of December reception 1795 in my journeyeastward.* I immediately inquired the health of my good old benefactor, and learned concerning with great concern that he was ill. As Karfa dangerously

upon

their heads.

"

would not allow the coffleto stop, I could not presentmy respects to the kingin person ; but I sent him word, by the officer to whom we paid customs, that his prayers for my safety had not been unavailing. We continued our route until sunset, when a littleto the westward lodgedat a small village of Kootakunda,and on the dayfollowing arrived at Jindey, where,eighteen months before, I had partedfrom my friend Dr. Laidley, an intervalduringwhich I had not beheld the face of a Christian, nor heard the delightful once sound of my native language. Beingnow arrived within a short distance of Pisania, from

we

*

Vide page 30.

THE

whence

INTERIOR

OF

295

AFRICA.

that my journeyoriginally commenced,and learning friend Karfa was not likely with an immediate opporto meet tunity of selling his slaves on the Gambia, it occurred to me to my

suggest to him that he would them

find it for his interest to leave

Jindey until a market should offer. Karfa agreedwith in this opinion, and hired, from the chief man of the town, me huts for their accommodation, and a pieceof land on which to and other provisions tenance. fortheir maincorn employ them in raising With regardto himself, he declared that he would not from Africa. We ingly, set out accordquitme until my departure and one of the Foulahs belonging to the Karfa,myself, I was now cofHe,earlyon the morningof the 9th ; but although the end of my tedious and toilsome journey, and approaching expectedin another day to meet with countrymen and friends, I could not part,for the last time,with my unfortunate fellowat

doomed, travellers,

as

I knew

most

of them

to

be, to

a

lifeof

in a foreign and slavery, land,without greatemotion. captivity than five hundred of more During a wearisome peregrination British miles, exposedto the burningrays of a tropical sun, amidst their own these poor slaves, infinitely greatersufierings, of their own would commiserate mine ; and frequently, accord, and at nightcollect branches bringwater to quenchmy thirst, We and leaves to prepare me a bed in the wilderness. parted of regretand benediction. My good with reciprocal expressions

all I could bestow upon them, and it wishes and prayers were sensible that theywere consolation to be told, afforded me some I had

no

more

to

give.

My anxietyto get forward admittingof no delayon the ably road,we reached Tendacunda in the evening,and were hospitreceived at the house of an agedblack female called Seniora had resided many years at the English a person who Camilla, and spokeour language. I was known to her before I factory, had leftthe Gambia, at the outset of my journey ; but my dress difierent from the usual appearance of and figure so now were

paek's

296

a

that European,

Moor.

When

she

was

travels

in

for a me mistaking country,she surveyed to givecredit unwilling

very excusable in

I told her my

name

and

and seemed with greatastonishment, She assured of her senses. to the testimony to see the traders on the Gambia ever expected

me

me me

that

none

again;

of ing hav-

had long ago, that the Moors of Ludamar murdered me, as they had murdered Major Houghton. I Johnson and Demba, and learned for my two attendants, inquired returned. that neither of them was with great sorrow Karfa, listened in English, before heard people who had never converse to us with great attention. derful. Everythinghe saw seemed wonThe furniture of the house,the chairs, etc.,and particularl beds with curtains, his of admiration were objects great ; and he asked me a thousand questions the utility and concerning of differentarticles, of which I found it difficult to some necessity to givesatisfactory answers. On the morning of the 10th,Mr. Robert Ainsley, having learnt that I was and at Tendacunda, came to meet me, offered me the use of his horse. He informed me politely that Dr. Laidley had removed allhis propertyto a placecalled and that he was then gone Kaye,a littlefarther down the river, to Doomasansa with his vessel to purchase but would return rice, in a day or two. He therefore invited me to stay with him at Pisania until the Doctor's return. I acceptedthe invitation, and being accompanied by my friend Karfa,reached Pisania about ten o'clock. Mr. Ainsley's schooner was lyingat anchor before the place. This was the most surprising objectwhich Karfa had yet seen. He could not easily comprehendthe use of the masts, sails, and rigging, did he conceive that it was nor possible, by any sort of contrivance, to make so largea body forwards by the (common move force of the wind. The manner of fastening togetherthe different plankswhich composedthe and filling vessel, to exclude the water, was so as up the seams new to him ; and I found that the schooner, perfectly with her been

informed

THE

INTERIOR

cable and

part of

anchor, kept Karfa the day.

About masansa,

OF

in

297

AFRICA.

deep

meditation

the greater

the 12th,Dr. Laidley returned from Dooand received me with greatjoyand satisfaction, as one on

noon,

risen from the dead.

Findingthat

the

wearingapparelwhich I had leftunder his care was not sold nor sent to England,I lost no time in resumingthe Englishdress, and disrobing my chin of its venerable incumbrance. Karfa surveyed in my me British apparel with great delight, but regretted exceedingly that I had taken off my beard,the loss of which,he said, had converted me from a man into a boy. Dr. Laidley readily undertook to discharge all the pecuniary engagements I had entered into since my departure from the Gambia,and took my draft upon the Association for the amount. My agreement with Karfa (asI have already to pay him the value of was related), for which I had given him my bill upon Dr. one prime slave, Laidleybefore we departedfrom Kamalia; for,in case of my death on the road,I was that my benefactor should unwilling be a loser. But this good creature had continued to manifest towards me so much that I thoughtI made him but kindness, I told him that he was now an inadequate recompense, when I had originally and Dr. to receive double the sum promised, Laidleyassured him that he was readyto deliver the goodsto that amount he thoughtproper to send for them. whenever Karfa was overpoweredby this unexpectedtoken of my gratitude, and stillmore handsome

so

when

he heard that I intended to send

Fankooma, presentto the good old schoolmaster,

a

at

promisedto carry up the goodsalongwith his assured him that he would exert himself own, and Dr. Laidley in assisting of his slaves to the best advantage, him to dispose Malacotta.

the moment

He

a

slave vessel should arrive.

instances of attention and were

not lost upon

journeyhas

indeed

Karfa. been

These

and

other

Laidley, would often say to me, He My prosperous!"But, observingthe

kindness shewn

him

by

Dr.

"

park's

298

in

and our manifest superiority manufactures, he would sometimes appear pensive, of civilized life,

improvedstate in the arts

travels

of

with and exclaim,

our

an

iuy

olxmteiY j

sigh, fatofng

mta

"black fenff,

other times he would ask me, with great have induced me, who was no what could possibly seriousness, so miserable a countryas x^frica? to think of exploring trader, men

are

nothing."At

that,after what I must have by this,to signify witnessed in my own country,nothingin Africa could,in his He

meant

these preserved littletraits of character in this worthyNegro, not onlyfrom regardto the man, but also because theyappear to me to above Ms condition ; and demonstrate that he possessed a mind in human nature to such of my readers as love to contemplate deserve opinion,

a

moment's

attention.

I have

all its varieties, and to trace its progress from rudeness to I have givenof this poor African I hope the account refinement, will not be

unacceptable. No Europeanvessel had arrived at Gambia for many months to my return from the interior; and as the rainy season previous was Karfa to return to his people now in,I persuaded setting at Jindey. He parted with me the 14th with greattenderness on of beingable to quitAfrica for ; but as I had littlehopes the remainder of the year, I told him, as the fact was, that I however, expectedto see him again before my departure.In this, I was and my narrative now hastens luckily disappointed, -to its conclusion, for,on the 15th,the ship Charlestown,an American vessel, commanded by Mr. Charles Harris,entered the river. She came for slaves, to touch at Goree intending to fillup, and to proceedfrom thence to South CaroUna. As the Europeanmerchants on the Gambia had at this time a great slaves on hand,tjj^ej many agreedwith the captain to purchase the whole of his cargo, consisting of rum and tobacco, chiefly and deliver him slaves to the of two days. amount, in the course This afforded me such an opportunity of returning (thoughby a circuitous route)to my native country,as I thoughtwas not

THE

to be

neglected.I

INTERIOR

OF

299

AFRICA.

therefore

immediately engagedmy passage America; and having taken leave of Dr. kindness I was and my so largely indebted, the river, I embarked at Kaye on the 17tli

in this vessel for to Laidley,

whose

other friends

on

day of June. Om- passage down the river was the weather was so hot,moist,and arrival at

Goree,four of the

tedious and

and fatiguing, that before our unhealthy,

the surgeon, and three of At Goree we were detained for

seamen,

the slaves had died of fevers. of

until the beginning of October. provisions The number of slaves received on board this vessel, both on the Gambia and at Goree,was hundred and thirty, of whom one about twenty-five had been, I suppose, of free condition in of them being Bushreens, could write a little most as Africa, Arabic. Nine of them had become in the religious captives want

war

between

Abdulkader

and

Damel, mentioned

chapter part of the preceding ; two I passedthroughBondou, and as me

in the interior countries.

their native

languagegave

My

them

dead, I consented

in the latter

of the others had of them

many

seen

had heard of

conversation with

them

great comfort; and

as

act in

me

in

the

medical

in capacity his room for the remainder of the voyage. They had,in truth, need of every consolation in my power to bestow,not that I either by the observed any wanton acts of cruelty practised towards them, but the mode of confining master or the seamen and securing Negroes in the American slave ships(owingchiefly of their crews), more to the weakness rigid beingabundantly and severe than in British vessels employedin the same traffic, sickness and a general made these poor creatures to suffer greatly, Besides the three who died on the prevailed amongst them. Gambia, and six or eightwhile we remained at Goree,eleven perishedat sea, and many of the survivors were reduced to a surgeon

was

to

very weak and emaciated condition. the In the midst of these distresses,

a

afterhavingbeen vessel,

park's

300 three weeks constant to

at sea, became

in

travels

so

extremelyleakyas

It was exertion at the pumps. of the ablest of the take some

to

require

found necessary, therefore, Negro men out of irons,

often employthem in this labour,in which they were worked beyond their strength.This produceda complication to be described. We however, of miseries not easily were, for the leak continuing than I expected, relieved much sooner utmost exertions to clear our to gain upon us, notwithstanding insisted on bearingaway for the West the seamen the vessel, ingly, the onlychance of savingour lives. Accordas affording Indies, the part of the master, we after some on objections made that for Antigua,and fortunately directed our course from Goree. island in about thirty-five daysafter our departure for Yet even at this juncture we narrowlyescapeddestruction, the north-west side of the island we struck on on approaching the Diamond Rock, and got into St. John's harbour with great The vessel was afterwards condemned as unfit for difficulty. I have heard,were ordered to be sold as sea, and the slaves, and

for the benefit of the At

this island I remained

Packet,homeward at

bound

St. John's for the

vessel.

owners.

We

sailed on

from

ten

days,when

the Leeward

the Chesterfield

Islands, touching

Antiguamail,I took my passage in that the 24th of November, and after a short

but tempestuousvoyage, arrived at Falmouth on the 22d of December, from whence I immediately set out for London, having been absent from Englandtwo years and seven months.

After his return from

Park remained for a considerAfrica, able time stationary in London, and was employedin diligently the materials for the publication arranging of his travels. It was nearly about this time (thespring of the year 1798) that Government, havingit in contemplation to procure a com-

THE

pletesurvey with

OF

301

AFRICA.

of New

to Park, Holland,made some application of employinghim upon that service ; but the

view

a

INTERIOR

declined.

was proposal

In June, 1798, he visited his mother,who resided at Fowland his other relationsin Scotland, and remained w^ith shiels,* them

the whole of the

time he

was

the account

and

summer

assiduously employed in of his travels.

His

stated to have consisted of short of separatepieces

on

proceedings.Where

paper,

these

During all this compilingand arranging

autumn.

materials for this work notes

are

memoranda, written

or

of his formingan imperfect journal the deficiency were wanting,he supplied

from his memory. His family representhim

the duringthis periodas leading life of a severe student,employed on his papers duringthe whole of the mornings, and allowing himself littleor no recreation, eveningwalk on the banks of the Yarrow. except a solitary however, he would indulgehimself in longer Occasionally, the wdld and romantic scenery of that neighexcursions among bourhood which he to was fondlyand almost enthusiastical attached.

quittedFow^lshielswith greatregrettowards the

He

latter

it was of 1798, when necessary for him to return to carried London to prepare for his intended pubHcation.He end

back with him

a

greatmass

of papers, the

produceof

his

mer's sum-

able and after his return to London, bestowed considerlabour, painsin the correction and retrenchment of his manuscript in the It was before it was sent to the press. published finally springof the year 1799. Park beganto think of of his travels. After the publication *

The and

summer

the banks of the Yarrow, is both picturesque on Fowlshiels, of a beautiful in immediate is the It Bowhill, vicinity striking.

situation of

residence of the Duke

the ruins of Newark

Minstrel.

of Buccleuch

and other Castle,

scenes

;

and at

no

greatdistance from

celebratedin the

Lay ofthe Last

302'

park's

himself in settling

life.

travels

During the

in

summer

and

autumn

of

matrimonial engagement with the eldest he had served with whom of Mr. Anderson of Selkirk, daughter to Scotland in the He returned, therefore, his apprenticeship.

1798, he had formed

a

August in that with This union,which connected him stillmore closely year. contributed with which he had longUved in friendship, a family in a highdegreeto his future comfort and happiness. he resided with than two years after his marriage For more and who lived together of his brothers, his mother and one carried on the farm at Fowlshiels. He remained for a long doubtful and unsettled as to his future planof time altogether of 1799, and

summer

was

married

on

the 2d of

life.

for medical practice, which was thought opportunity havingoffered itselfat Peebles,he went promising, sufficiently in the month of October,1801, and to reside at that town betook himself in good earnest to the exercise of his profession. His former habits of lifehad,however,in a greatmeasure qualifie dishim for his presenthumble occupations. The situation in Scotland, of a country practitioner attended with no distinction littlecalculated to gratify or much was personal advantage, An

a

man

whose and

distant

mind

was

romantic

full of ambitious views,and of adventurous undertakings.His journeysto visit

rides over cold and patientshis long and solitary^ lonelyheaths" and "gloomy hills,assailed by the wintry to have producedin him feelings seem of disgust and tempest," which he had perhapsrarelyexperienced in the impatience, "

"

deserts of Africa.

His strong sense of the irksomeness of this way of fifebroke out from him upon many occasions ; especially, when previously to his undertaking his second African mission, of his nearest one relations expostulated with him on the of againexposinghimself to dangerswhich he had imprudence so and perhapseven and still to new very narrowlyescaped, that a few inglorious greater ones ; he calmlyreplied, winters

THE

INTERIOK

OF

303

AFPJCA.

of countrypractice at Peebles was and would a risk as great, tend as effectually to shorten life, as the journeywhich he was about It

to

undertake.

might have

been

expectedthat a person who had been accustomed to literary and scientificsociety, so much and who had lately been in some degreeadmitted into the fashionable circlesof the metropolis, in which he had become an object of much interest and attention, would have feltgreatrepugnance of a small market town. to the solitude and obscurity But this does not appear to have been the case. General society, for which indeed he was not particularly not much to his was suited, of his lifehe alwayslooked forward taste ; and duringevery period to a state of completeretirement and seclusion in the country and end of all his labours. He had great enjoyas the object ment, in in his domestic circle, and the society of own however, select friends ; and his residence at Peebles was, in this respect, ing highlyfortunate for him, since it was the occasion of his becomwith acquainted

residents in that neighdistinguished bourhood Colonel John Murray of Cringletie, old a distinguished and Dr. Adam Ferguson, with then retiredfrom the service, oflScer, and passedmuch of his time. he became intimate, both of whom In the midst of all his occupations however.Park's thoughts of the stillturned upon Africa. Soon after the signature were Articles of Peace with France,in October 1801,he Preliminary him received a letterfrom Sir JosephBanks, acquainting that, of the peace, the Association would certainly in consequence in order to of sendinga mission to Africa, revive their project penetrateto and navigatethe Niger;" and he added,"that in Park would certainly should enter into the plan. Government case be recommended as the person proper to be employedfor carrying two

"

it hito execution."

But

the business remained for a considerable

follow this communication time in suspense, nor did any specific proposal of the year 1803, when he received tillthe autumn from the officeof the Colonial Secrea letter addressed to him

park's

304

travels

in

^

his attendance without delay. On desiring tary of State,

his

ingham, arrival in London he had an interview with the Earl of Buckthen Lord Hobart, and Secretaryof State for the him with the nature of an who acquainted Colonial department, and in about to take place, to Africa,which was expedition that Park should bear a principal part. which it was proposed itselffor some had been indulging Park's imagination years destined to the visions of discoveries which he was of his ambition make in the interior of Africa ; and the object announced to Lord Hobart beingnow within his grasp, he hastily

past upon

his acceptanceof the proposal. his house at At this time he quitted

familyto the farm

and took his Peebles,

where he quietly waited the Fowlshiels, of State, of the Secretary employinghimself at

summons expected himself in the use of astronoin perfecting mical with greatdiligence in and in the studyof the Arabic language, instruments, which he became a tolerable proficient. Sir Walter Scott was at this time at (1804)residing in the neighbourhood and naturally of Fowlshiels, Ashestiel, with Mr. Park, which was soughtan acquaintance speedily matured into a sincere and cordial friendship. As might be their conversation often turned upon Africa, and upon expected, one

or

two

occasions Mr. Park

several remarkable

and

communicated

to

his friend

adventures which had interesting but which were not in his happenedto him duringhis journey, printedtravels. On being asked the reason of this omission, which appeared to his friend somewhat his reply unaccountable, and characteristic.He said was That in all cases striking where he had information to communicate, which he thoughtof to the pubhc,he had stated the facts boldly, importance leaving it to his readers to givesuch credit to his statements as they to deserve ; but that he would not shock might appear justly their credulity, or render his travels more ducing marvellous, by introcircumstances which,however true,were of littleor no very

"

THE

INTERIOR

moment, as theyrelated and escapes."

OF

his

to solely

305

AFRICA.

own

adventures personal

Callingone day at Fowlshiels upon Park,and not finding him at home, Scott walked in search of him alongthe banks of the Yarrow, which is there a romantic stream, running rocks,and formingdeep eddies and pools. In a short among time he found the traveller employed in plunginglarge and watchingwith anxious attention the stones into the river, bubbles as they rose to the surface. On beingasked by his friend the reason so why he persevered long in this singular amusement? "This was the manner," answered Park, "in which I used to ascertain the depthof a river in Africa before I ventured to cross it,judgingwhether the attemptw^ould be safe by the time w^hich the bubbles of air took to ascend." It that Park had any thoughts of undertaking not then known was second mission ; but this circumstance leftno mind that he had formed such an intention. a

doubt in Scott's

his determination againto visitAfrica, he Notwithstanding in the Moorish acknowledgedthat the horrors of his captivity had never ceased to impress his imagination. camp of Benowm to which, he was affectedwith indigestion When a complaint and by he w^as a good deal subject, after his return from Africa, "

which his

his rest

much

was

affected he used often to start from "

in himself stilla prisoner in greathorror, supposing sleep

the *

tent of Ali.

of in strong and feeling Scott describes, terms, the manner with his friend. About the time of his quitting his last parting and Fowlshiels for the last time.Park paidScott a farewellvisit, at slept

Ashesteil.

part of the way,

togetherover Tweed

on

The next

his return

the wild chain of

from the Yarrow.

and mentioned expedition, from

him morning,Scott accompanied to Fowlshiels ; and

theyrode

hillswhich pastoral

divide the

Park talked much

of his

his determination of

to without returning Edinburgh, X

take

new

African

goingstraight leave of his family.

park's

306

travels

in

"

They which

hill the top of William-hope a lofty ridge, of the Yarrow ; and the autumnal overlooks the course then

were

on

the

valleybeneath emblem of the to Scott's imagination a striking them,presented Park's undertaking troubled and uncertain prospect which to afforded. Scott pressedupon his friend the dangerlikely which with a military result from his being accompanied force, the most unsafe mode of travelling in Africa ; the he then thought number of troopsproposed to be employedappearing to be inadequate for conquest, for serious defence, or even yet largeenough Park answered these objections to excite suspicion. by describing and slowlydown mist,which floated heavily

the

in

manner

who sovereigns,

which were

Africa

not

was

subdivided

petty

among

form any regular combination boundaries were traversed. soon

to likely

for

cuttinghim off,and whose He spoke also of the longjourneys in those countries, common and of the habit of seeing cofflesor caravans of all nations pass throughtheir territorieson paying a small duty; from which he inferred that the march

of

a

small

party,such

as

that which

to be

placedunder his command, would excite no serious apprehension.This interesting conversation occupiedthe two friends tilltheyhad passedthe hills, and came to a road where it had been agreedtheyshould separate. A small ditch divided the moor from the road,and, in going over it.Park's horse stumbled and nearlyfell. "I am afraid, Mungo," said Mr. Scott, that is a bad omen ;" to which he answered,smiling,Freits {i e. omens) follow those who look to them." With this proverbial and afraid of a formal adieu, expression, he rode away and was of out speedily sight. On leavingFowlshiels the last time, he was extremely and would affected, not venture to trust his own or feelings, those of his family, with a formal parting.He leftthem, as if with the intention of that he had particular returning, alleging was

"

"

business

at

farewell.

Edinburgh,from

whence

he

sent

them

his final

THE

INTEBIOE

OF

CHAPTER Paries

307

AFRICA.

XXVIL

second

journeyto Africa Starts from Kayee Extreme in travelling^ and death ofseveral ofhis attendants difficulties and his hrother-inThreatened hy lions Death ofMr, Scott, Feels himself law Mr. Anderson fora second time lonely in the wilds ofAfrica Last letterto Mrs. Park and friendless "

"

"

"

"

"

His Death, as related in Amadi

Fatoumis

Journal.

for the expedition Park, beingcompleted, preparations mouth, to Portsaccompanied by Mr. Anderson,and Mr. Scott proceeded from the where theywere joinedby four or five artificers time for the service ; and afterwaiting some appointed dockyards, the 30th of for a wind,theyset sailin the Crescent transport, on January1805,and arrived at Port Praya Bay,in the Cape Verd The transactionsof Park,from about the 8th of March. Islands, from the time of his embarkation in Englandto his departure of about Kayee on the Gambia for the interiorof Africa (aperiod letters: seven weeks),will be best described by the following JL HE

"

To Edward

Cooke,Esq.,Under Secretary of Stateforthe Colonial

Department. Kiver Gambia, April9, 1805. Jillifree, " We had a very tedious passage to the Cape Verd Islands, being detained by storms and contrary winds in the Bay of did not reach St. Jago tillthe 8th of March. so that we Biscay, "

I

set immediately

and succeeded

so

about

the purchasing

well that

on

hay,etc., embarked forty-

asses, corn,

the 18th I had

and hay. The master of the four asses, with plentyof corn declared that he could not receive any more consistently transport of the vessel. We sailedfor Goree on the 21stv with the safety

park's

308

in

travels

"

Englishshipsof the line, into the bay. They did not came of them a three-decker, one hail us ; one of them had an Admiral's blue flagat the mizen. We made the coast of Africa on the 25th,and anchored I immediately went in Goree roads on the morning of 28th. to MajorLloyd, shore,and havingdelivered the despatches on the proper encouragement to be consulted with him respecting offered to the troops. We agreedthat nothingwould be so and a great an inducement as double pay duringthe journey, A garrison order to this efiect was their return. on discharge made out, and in the course of a few days almost accordingly had volunteered his services. every soldier in the garrison Lieutenant Martyn,of the RoyalArtillery Corps,havinglikewise I thoughtit would be of consequence to have an volunteered, officerwho was with the men, and who could assist acquainted in choosing such as were best able to stand fatigue.I me therefore accepted his services on the conditions mentioned in Lord Camden's letter. Captain Shortland,of the Squirrel has allowed two of his best seamen to go with me frigate, as in order to assist in riggingand navigating volunteers, our I have giventhem the same men Nigritian ofwar. ment encourageand have had the four carpenters as the soldiers, I whom in order to put the whole under broughtfrom Englandattested, the same and regulations. discipline On the morningof the 6th of Aprilwe embarked the in number soldiers, men. thirty-five They jumped into the boats hi the highestspirits, and bade adieu to Goree with repeatedhuzzas. I believe that every man in the garrison While

we

were

tinder way, getting

six

"

"

would

have embarked could

prevailon

with great cheerfulness but ;

no

ment induce-

I singleNegro to accompany me. must therefore trust to the Gambia for and I expect interpreters, to be able to hire or purchasethree four in goingup the or river. I will send a particular account of all money matters by a

the return of the transport.

"

Mungo

Park."

THE

INTERIOR

OF

309

AFRICA.

To Mrs. Parh

"Kayee, River Gambia, April26, 1805. I have been

"

for

three

daysin making preparations

journey,and

our

can

busythese

receive

I feel rather uneasy when I think that I letters from you till I return to England; but

no

depend on this,that I will avail myselfof every of writing to you, though, from the very nature of opportunity the undertaking, these opportunities will be but few. We set off for the interior to-morrow morning,and I assure you, that whatever the issue of the presentjourneymay be, every thing looks favourable. We have been successfulthus far, beyondmy highest expectations. The natives, instead of beingfrightened at us, look on us their best friends, and the kingshave not onlygranted as us but sent peopleto go before us. The soldiersare protection, in the highest of them (like spirits me) have left ; and as many a wife and familyin England,theyare happy to embrace this of returning.They never think about difficulties opportunity ; occasion for it,that theywould and I am confident, if there was defeat any number of Negroesthat might come us ; but against of this we have not the most distant expectation. The king of Kataba (themost powerfulking in Gambia) visited us on you

may

*^

board the Crescent

21st ; he has furnished

the 20th and

on

us

to the king of Woolli. safely of writingto you from I expect to have an opportunity Bammakoo Konkodoo or by some of the slave traders ; but as have returned to the I may probably theytravel very slowly,

with

a

messenger

to conduct

us

"

lettershave reached Goree ; at any rate, ifyou should not hear from me for some you need not be surprised between Africa months ; nay, so uncertain is the communication coast before any of my

and my

hear may be which I stillthink will be in the month arrivalin the latter,

England,that perhapsthe

of December.

If

we

next

news

have to go round

you

may

by the

West

itwill Indies,

park's

310 take an

two

us

months

more

if a unlimited credit,

take

a

travels

in

has given me I shallof course vessel is coming direct, ;

but

as

Government

and enjoyedexcellent health, to a happy conclusion. bringthis expedition

passage in her.

I have

have greathopesto In five weeks from the date of this letterthe worst part of the Kiss all my dear children for me, and journeywill be over. let them know

that their father loves them."

Dickson,dated Kayee, April26th,1805, Park writes as follows : the day before his embarkation. Every In

a

letter to Mr.

*'

"

thingat presentlooks as favourable as I could wish,and if all thingsgo well,this day six weeks I expect to drink all your of the Niger. The soldiers are in good healths in the water I ever health and spirits. saw men ; They are the most dashing and iftheypreserve their health, we may keep ourselves perfecjtly from any hostile attempt on the part of the natives. I have littledoubt but that I shall be able,with presentsand secure

throughthe countryto the Niger; and if once Give my kind regards to the day is toon. are we afloat, fairly Sir Josephand Mr. Greviile ; and if they should think that I have paid too littleattention to natural objects, tion you may menthat I had forty and forty-two to look after, asses men besides the constant trouble of packingand weighingbundles, with the Negroes, and layingplansfor our future palavering I never life." success. was so busy in my fairwords,to pass

On struck

it is impossible not readingthis correspondence with the satisfactionexpressed by Park, and the with

which

to

be

dence confi-

he

appears to have looked forward to a favourable termination of his journey. Yet in reality nothing could be much less promising than his actual situation and prospects at the time of writing these letters.

Besides the indifferentquality of the troops,there was another and more serious ground of alarm,from the unfavour-

THE

able

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

311

periodat which,owing to a series of unforeseen delays, Park found himself obligedto enter on this expedition. This he was about to do,not actually duringthe rainyseason, but w4th a great probability of being overtaken by it in the course of his journey in of encountering, ; and with a positive certainty the mean time,not onlythe great tropical heats,but also the which alwaysprecede and follow the rainy or hurricanes, tornadoes^ These hurricanes, of which no idea can be formed from season. the experience of our temperateclimates, occur more frequently, and with greaterviolence, the rainyperiodapproaches, and as attended with considerable inconvenience, and occasionally are with danger, at that season. to caravans travelling His situation was and he had only a choice of critical, difficulties.He might either attempt to reach the Nigerbefore should be completely the rainyseason set in,or he mightpostpone tillthe return of the proper season his journey for travelling, December which would be in November or following.The that he would have acted more has shewn event wiselyin the expedition.But in this difficultsituation he deferring ter to his characadoptedthat alternativewhich was most congenial he formed this resolution, and feelings ; and having once from his and firmness ; dismissing adhered to itwith tranquilHty at least efiectually mind all doubts and apprehensions, or own and from them from the companionsof his journey, concealing in England. his friends and correspondents The persons composingthe expedition beingassembled at Kayee, a small town on the Gambia, a littlebelow Pisania, also a named Isaaco,who was Park engageda Mandingopriest neys, merchant,and much accustomed to longinland jourtravelling On the 27th of the guide to his caravan. to serve as from Kayee, and arrived in April1805, he took his departure from whence he had set out for the interior two daysat Pisania, culties diffiof Africa nearlyten years before. Some of the practical of the march were apparentduringthis short journey,

312

PARK

S

TRAVELS

IN

and he found it necessary to stop at Pisania six days (adelay tional addito purchase inconvenient), which must have been highly beasts of burden,and make other arrangements for the

expedition. He quitted Kayee on the 4th of May, and arrived on the The of the kingdom of Woolli. 11th at Madina, the capital become apparent,two of the had already effectsof the season On the the 8th. on soldiers having fallen ill of dysentery 15th he arrived on the banks of the Gambia, and about this time lost one of his soldiersby an epilepsy. accident On the 26th the caravan a singular experienc^ed from the attack of a large to an European) unintelligible (almost of of which,besides that many of bees,in consequence swarm of their beasts of the people most were severely stung, seven burden perished lost; and owing to an accidental fire or were which was the whole baggage was kindled in the confusion, near beingburnt. For half an hour it seemed as if the bees had put an end to the expedition. On the 28th of May, Park arrived at Badoo, where he mentions havinghad an opportunity of sendingtwo lettersto addressed These letterswere Englandby way of the Gambia. to Sir JosephBanks and Mrs. Park ; the latteris as follows. To Mrs, Park, '' "

I

Badoo,29th May

1805.

happy to

inform you that we half throughour are circumstance. journeywithout the smallest accident or unpleasant We all of us keepour health, and are on the most friendly terms am

with the natives. and

am

I have

everywherewell

seen

many

received.

of my old acquaintances, By the 27th of June we

expectto have finishedallour travels by land,and when we have once shall conclude that we we got afloat on the river, are

embarkingfor England. I have and Alexander is quitefree from

had the smallest sickness, allhis stomach complaints.

never

THE

"

The

INTERIOR

OF

AFRICA.

bearer of this to the Gambia

313

is waiting with his asses

for a few minutes

well,and that our stayin we

are

"

We

in fact we

carry

only.You will therefore inform allfriendsthat I see no reason to think goingon prosperously. the interiorwill be longer than 1 firstmentioned. our

have

own

victuals with us, and

live very well ; and yet this is pleasant journey,

onlyhad a what we thoughtwould be the worst part of it. I will indulgethe hope that my wife,children, and all friends are well. I am in greathopesof finishing this journey with credit in a few months ; and then with what joy shall I turn for the my face towards home ! The Slatee is impatient and I have onlytime to subscribe myself," etc. letter, Park's situation was now this letter. Notwithstanding very critical. The tornadoes had begun to be frequent and a few ; daysafterwards it became quiteapparent that the rainyseason was in,before the journeyto the Nigerwas more seriously setting than half completed. The effect producedon the health of the almost instantaneous soldiersby a violent rain on the 10th of June,was and from were ill, dangerously ; twelve of them at once this time the greatmortality commenced, which was ultimately fatalto the expedition. At Shrondo,in the kingdom of Dentila,where the caravan there are considerable gold mines ; afterwards arrived, shortly and the journalcontains a minute and interesting description the metal,and of the country of collecting both of the manner "

in which it is found.

Shrondo,Park mentions that in consequence quitting forced to carry their of a very sudden tornado, they were bundles into the huts of the natives, beingthe firsttime that since leavingthe Gambia, the caravan had entered a town circumstance is this slight the climate and season, Considering which must have been alone a sufficientproofof the hardships sustained by Europeansin such a journey. At Dindikoo,beyond Shrondo, Park was much struck with After

park's

314

of magnificence

beauty and

the

country,as well

as

in

travels

with the extent

ttiat mountamons to which it was

tract

of

cultivated,

happy condition of the inhabitants. comparatively the track he had hitherto he quitted Proceedinga littlefurther, returned from Kamalia to followed, by which he had formerly and

the

towards the north-east, with the Gambia, and dh^ected his course of avoiding the Jallonka wilderness. But the a view probably difficulties of

were travelling

become

now

from partly the increasing

extreme,

but principally of the country, from of the disease producedby the continued rains. prevalence the nature

On

the 4th of

Julyhe

his guide; losingIsaaco, who in crossing twice attacked by a crocodile, and a river was saved himself by extraordinary presence of mind, thoughnot

without

some

very

severe

was

near

wounds.

This accident detained the

several

days,and added to the numerous delayswhich had so unfortunately impededthe expedition. Several of the soldiers had died duringthe course of the journey; and on the 6th of Julythe whole number of persons or composingthe caravan (except one) were either actually sick, in a state of great debility. Yet he stillhad great difficulties to encounter,in traversing a obliged country where he was be to the watch againstthe depredations on of constantly the inhabitants, and occasionally the attacks of wild beasts. caravan

Under

such

circumstances it is not wonderful that the few soldiersnot disabled by sickness fellback,and it was with great that difficulty

of them

could be

prevailedon to continue their march. The dangersand sufferings he had now to encounter such as have been experiencedby few trawere vellers, and their narration forms the most interesting part of his second journal, as follows : Aug. 6th, 180e5. drivers Having hired two more ass at one bar and their victuals per day,we leftKoolihori earlyin the morning,and travelled with considerable tillthree dispatch at which time we o'clock, reached Ganifarra, a small beggarly any

"

THE

INTERIOR

OF

315

AFRICA.

village.In the course of this march L. Cahill and J. Bird,two and William Cox, one of the seamen, fellbehind, of the soldiers, As soon and laydown. as the front of the cofflehad reached it came on a very Ganifarra, heavy rain. Being in the rear T drenched ; and two of the asses carrying four was completely the gun-stocks, trunks,in which were pistols, looking-glasses in

etc.,felldown contents not

so

stream

a

of water

wet. completely

were

much

as

a

Served

fowl.

near

I could out

a

beingvery short of that article. Aug. 7th. During the nightsome "

of

our

best

asses

;

and

as

the load must

the town, and all the

purchase nothinghere,

short allowance of rice,

person

had

be leftif we

stolen

one

could not

it,Isaaco's people, havingtraced the foot-marks to a considerable distance, agreedto go in search of it. Isaaco gave if theycame them the strictest orders, up to the thief in the recover

and,if not, to follow him to a town and demand the ass from the Dooty ; if he refused to giveit up, to return as soon as possible. Spent the day in dryingsuch thingsas were wet ; cleaned ten pairs. with shea butter allthe ornamented pistols, and greased which were Dried the looking-glasses, quitespoiled.In the afternoon sent two of the natives away with goodsto a neighbouring At sun-set Bird came rice and corn. to purchase town nothingof Cox nor Cahill. up, but had seen Aug. 8th. Peoplenot yet returned. Opened the trunk woods,to shoot him

;

"

which contained the double-barrelled gun stocks ; cleaned and peoplereturned with the rice and greasedthem. About noon

quitesufficientfor one day. Nearlyat the same had traced his Isaaco's peoplecame up with the.ass ; they

corn, but not

time

and found him at Balandoo. Did not footmarks past Koolihori, which Isaaco promisedto but learned his name, the thief, see of him. to inform Serinummo write to his friend at Bangassi, bars to In the afternoon agreedwith the Dooty for thirty-five carry

over. everything

Rained

allthe evening. heavily

pake's

316

in

travels

Michael May, a soldier, having died during Aug. 9th. buried him at daybreak. Had all the loads taken to the night, the crossing placeby eighto'clock. The Ba Woolli is nearlyof "

crossed of that name. It formerly to be exceedingly deep,and flowed at the rate of four appeared There isa very goodcanoe here,which can or five miles per hour. As it threatened rain, sent carry over four ass-loads at once. it on the east with one of the tents,and pitched three men over side,about half a mile from the river,the groundnear the bank and being marshy. Hired peopleto carry down the bundles, the

size

same

as

the

we

one

put them into the canoe, and others to receive them on the and carry them up the ba.nk ; so that the soldiers other side,

nothingto move, beingall weak and sickly. By one o'clock all the baggage was over; but we found in transporting of the the asses ; the rapidity some difficulty and the firstsix past the landing-place stream swept the canoe ; and theywent so far down the river, the that I really thought be drowned ; which would have been an irreparable must asses loss in our situation. However, by the exertions of the Negroes,

had

who

in with ropes to the canoe, the

swam

asses

landed

were

on

the other side,where they stood by the water's edge until the with their corn-hoes, made a pathfor them up the steep Negroes, bank.

To

several of

prevent such our

and fastened them loads,

the river ; with this we

across

the

Negroespaddledit back

the

asses

and horses

When that

we

were

the bundles had

not

present day ; and

no

alternative but to march distance by all accounts

the loaded canoe, and all empty. In this manner

when

over

without any loss. all carried up to the tent,we over

rice than

more as

hauled

swam were

took the ropes from so as to reach together,

we accident,

an

found

barelysufficient for the could be purchased, had no more we earlyin the morningfor Bambarra ; the would

was

not exceed

fourteen

or

fifteen

miles.

Aug.

10th.

"

William

Ashton

declared that he

was

unable

THE

to travel ; but

INTERIOR

there was

OF

317

AFRICA.

placeto leave him at,I advised him to make an exertion and come tillhe should on, thoughslowly, reach a placewhere he could have food. At eighto'clock set and travelled very expeditiously without halting till forwards, four in the afternoon, at which time the front of the coffle reached Dabadoo,a village of Bambarra. Being in the rear, I found many of the men with the lengthof fatigued very much the journeyand the heat of the day. At half-past four I arrived with the ass I drove at a stream flowing to the westwards. Here I found many of the soldierssitting, and Mr. Anderson lyingunder a bush, apparently dying. Took him on my back, as

and carried him

no

the stream, which came up to my middle. Carried over the load of the ass which T drove,got over the ass, much fatigued, Found myself etc. Mr. Anderson's horse, having across

crossed the stream

sixteen times.

Left here four soldierswith

their asses, being unable to carry loaded my ass and put Mr. Anderson

over on

their loads. his

horse,we

Having went

on

village ; but was sorry to find that no rice could be had, fowl. and I was onlyable to buy one solitary Aug. 11th. Bought a small bullock of the Moorish breed barraloolo ; and havingpurchasedsome for one corn, had it instead of rice. This morning cleaned and dressed forthe people hired Isaaco's peopleto go back,and bringup the loads of the In the course soldierswho had halted by the side of the stream. of the day all the loads arrived ; but was sorry to find that in

to

the

"

had lost four men, viz., Bird,and Ash ton. Mr. Anderson stillin a very Cox, Cahill, dangerousway, beingunable to walk or situpright.Mr. Scott

the

course

much

of the last two

recovered.

of the horses

marches

we

I found that I must

here leave

one

beingquitefinished. Left the seine nets

load,one in charge

Dooty tillI should send for them. Aug. 12th." Rained all the morning. About eleven of the None loaded the asses. the sky being clear, o'clock, beingable to lifta load,Isaaco made the Negroesload Europeans of the

park's

318 the whole.

in

Anderson's horse,and mine, took Mr. Anderson's horse

Saddled Mr.

sick soldier on that he

travels

mighthave

no

trouble but

havingput a by the bridle, uprighton the saddle. sitting

had not gone far before I found one of the asses with a load the driver (Dickinson) being unable to proceed of gunpowder, after the sick ; and shortly (Inever heard of him afterwards) dismounted from my horse,and lay down by a small pool man We

the ass and horse on before to rise. Drove of water, refusing Passed a number of sick. At half pasttwelve o'clock Mr. me. Anderson declared he could ride no farther. Took him down and laid him At

in the shade of

a

bush,and

sat down

two o'clock he made another attempt half-past

beside him.

proceed;

to

yardsbefore I had to take I and layhim againin the shade. him down from the saddle, now gave up all thoughtsof being able to carry him forwards tillthe cool of the evening ; and having turned the horses and of my dying I sat down to watch the pulsations to feed, ass hundred

but had

not rode above

friend.

At four o'clock four of the sick came

a

agreedto take chargeof who had a put the fourth,

the

ass

up ; three of them Avith the gunpowder; and I

him if leg,on my horse,telling he saw Mr. Scott on the road,to givehim the horse. At half-past five o'clock, there beinga fine breeze from the Mr. Anderson agreedto make another attempt; and south-west, havingagainplacedhim on the saddle,I led the horse on pretty before dark. We smartlyin hopes of reachingKoomikoomi had not proceededabove a mile before we heard on our left a noise very much like the barkingof a large but ending mastifi", in a hiss like the fuf^ of a cat. I thoughtit must be some largemonkey ; and was observingto Mr. Anderson, What a bouncingfellow that must be,"when we heard another bark to us, and presently third stillnearer, accompanied nearer a with a growl. I now that some wild animal meant suspected to attack us, but could not conjecture of what species it was sore

"

*

Thus in Mr. Park's MSS.

THE

INTERIOR

OF

319

AFRICA.

We had not proceeded to be. likely a hundred yardsfarther when, coming to an openingin the bushes,I was not a little to see three hons comingtowards us. surprised They were not in Bambarra,but of a dusky so red as the lion I formerly saw like the colour of an ass. colour, and They w^ere very large, came but boundingover the longgrass, not one after another, all abreast of each other. too

come

be

near

us, and

all devoured

my

I

was

if I allowed them afraid,

pieceshould

miss

that fire,

we

to

should

them ; I therefore let go the bridle, and forwards to meet them. As soon within as theywere

walked

by

of me, I fired at the centre one. I do not think I hit him ; but they all stopt,looked at each other,and then bounded away a few paces, when one of them stopt, and looked a

long shot

I

busy in loadingmy pieceto observe their motions as theywent away, and was very happyto see the off amongst the bushes. last of them march slowly We had not when we heard another proceededabove half a mile farther, This was bark and growl close to us amongst the bushes. doubtless one of the lionsbefore seen, and I was afraidtheywould follow us tilldark,when theywould have too many opportunities I therefore got Mr. Anderson's of springing on us unawares. We and noise as possible. and made as loud a whistling call, back

at

heard

no

me.

more

was

too

of them.

where was a small valley side was of water ; but the ascent the opposite stream on seen of broken ground,w^hich I have never througha species nature : A anywhere but in Africa. It is of the following of stiffyellowclayfourteen or twenty feet thick (which, stratum is as hard as rock), iswashed by the annual unless when it rains, rains into fissures of a depth equalto the thickness of the these places, There is no vegetation stratum. on excepton the I unfortunately summit level. Amongst these horrid gulleys or original lost sight of the footmarks of the asses which had gone before ; and finding no way to get out, led the horse up a very Just

at

dark

we

descended

into

a

park's

320

in

travels

level, hoping there to gainthe original all broken as the groundwas But unluckily find the foot-path. littleway, we came some far as I could see ; and aftertravelling no could not cross ; and finding possibility to a guUey which we into of moving without the danger of being killed by falling I thoughtit some of these ravines,or over precipice, some advisable to halt tillthe morning. On this ruggedsummit we steep placein order

with

fell in

assistance I

to

Watkins,

Jonas

hghted a

one

of the sick ; and

Wrapped

fire.

Mr.

with

Anderson

his

in his

all night to cloak,and laid him down beside it. Watched by keep the fire burning,and prevent our being surprised distance. About knew were at no which we the lions, great of the sick joinedus. morning two more and as soon well duringthe night, as day slept

o'clock in the

two

Mr. Anderson

dawned

"

Aug. 13th. Having found the footmarks of the asses, and in daylight, traced our way through even havingwith difficulty of the sick. found Mr. Scott and three more this labyrinth, we They too had lost their way, and had sleptabout half a mile to "

the east of is

We

us.

unw^alled

an

but village,

August 13th. August 14th. "

"

him. fever

Halted was

loaded

reached Koomikoomi

here

to likely

surrounded

at ten

with

o'clock.

This

extensive

fields. corn-

Halted ; rested at Koomikoomi. died this morning; buried Jonas Watkins

to-dayto terminate

forward to

;

see

and

which

way

Mr.

in the meantime

Anderson's sent

two

Doombila,the asses to return in the eveningand carry loads to-morrow morning. It is a common observation of the Negroesthat when the Indian corn is in blossom the rain stopsfor eleven days. The stoppingof the rain evidently dependson the sun approaching the zenith of the place; the sun by this day's observation being onlyseventy-onemiles north of us ; and it is a wonderful institution of Providence, that at this time the maize here is allin asses

THE

INTEKIOR

OF

321

AFRICA.

full blossom ; and on passing throughthe fields, one be blinded with the pollen of the male flowers.

is like to

under Aug. 15th. Having slung a cloak like a hammock had Mr. Anderson put into it,and carried on a straight stick, Mr. two men's heads, two to relieve them. more following Scott complained thismorning of sicknessand headache. Made "

one

of the soldiers saddle Mr. Anderson's horse for him

havingseen

him

givenhim

mount, and

on

their heads

;

with water, I had hired to

being strangers,I

but

with

and

his canteen

I rode forwards to look after four negroes whom carry loads

;

them.

was

hensive appre-

Found

everything that we going on well ; and we travelled with such expedition reached Doombila in four hours and a half, thoughthe distance south. It miles,nearly be less than sixteen or eighteen cannot theymight run

away

and it was not tilldark that all rained hard all the afternoon, the sick soldierscame Onlythree of the soldierswere able up. to

drive their asses When

to-day. I

I entered the town

was

happy to

meet

Karfa

Taura, the worthy Negro mentioned in my former travels. that a coffle He heard a reportat Boon (wherehe now resides)

throughFooladoo for Bambarra ; peoplewere passing of Park, conducted by a person of the name and that theywere who spoke Mandingo. He heard this reportin the evening; to and in the morning he lefthis house,determined if possible travel. He came at Bambakoo, a distance of six days' meet me in going with three of his slaves to assist me to Bambakoo forward to Sego; but when he found I had not come up, he came He instantly me, and you recognised forwards to meet me. old benefactor. I felt on seeing my judge of the pleasure may of white

Scott had not come as Mr. four o'clock, up, and the of I sent one people in the rear had not seen him lately, Isaaco's peopleback on my horse as far as the next village, that he might have halted there when the rain At

suspecting

Y

paek's

322

came

at

The

on.

man

Scott.

We

in

returned after dark,having been

without

Koomikoomi

travels

seeing or

all concluded that he

nearly

hearing anythingof had

returned

to

Mr.

koomi. Koomi-

in order to dry the Aug. 17th. Halted at Doombila baggage,and in hopes of Mr. Scott coming up. Told the four koomi Negroeswho carried Mr. Anderson,and who returned to Koomithis morning,to make every possible enquiryconcerning I would pay them handsomely able to ride, Mr. Scott ; and if he was koomi, If he had returned to Koomifor coming with him. "

Dooty that I would pay for for a guideto conduct every expense he might incur,and pay Received from the Dooty of Doombila a him to Marraboo. five bars of small bullock and a sheep. Paid him a barraloolo, amber, and fifty gun flints. Aug. 18th. Hearing no account of Mr. Scott,concluded still at Koomikoomi, but unable to travel. At seven he was o'clock leftDoombila ; and as the asses were now very weak, it not long before I had to dismount and put a load on my was Road horse. Only one of the soldiersable to drive an ass. very bad ; did not reach Toniba tillsunset,being a distance of eighteenor twenty miles S. E. by S. Mr. Anderson's bearers halted with him at a village the road,where there was some on good beer. As soon as we had pitchedthe tent it began to rain, and rained all night into the village.I ; the soldiers all ran night,havingto keep our asses from passeda very disagreeable to keepwalkingabout eatingthe people's corn, which caused me almost the whole night. In case itshould escape my memory, I take this opportunity of observing that the standard law of Africa runs thus : If an should break a single stem of corn, the proprietor of the corn ass has a rightto seize the ass ; and if the owner of the ass will not him for the damage he thinks he has sustained, he can satisfy retain the ass. He cannot sellor work him,but he can killhim ; I desired them

"

to

assure

the

THE

and

as

the Bambarrans

INTERIOR

esteem

OF

323

AFRICA.

ass-fleshas

a

this great luxurj%

part of the law is often put in force.

Aug. 19th. Mr. Anderson's bearers havingbroughthim in the morning, forward early loaded the asses, we immediately and departedfrom Toniba, (Serjeant M*Keal appears to be We slightly delirious.) kept ascendingthe mountains to the south of Toniba tillthree o'clock, at which time,havinggained the summit of the ridgewhich separates the Niger from the branches of the Senegal, I went on a littlebefore ; and remote I once more the Nigerrolling saw coming to the brow of the hill, its immense stream ! alongthe plain After the fatiguing march which we had experienced, the end as it promised an sightof this river was no doubt pleasant, to, or to be at least an alleviationof,our toils. But when I "

reflected that three-fourths of the soldiers had died

on

their

march, and that in addition to our weakly state we had no to prosecute carpentersto build the boats in which we proposed the prospect appearedsomewhat our discoveries, gloomy. It, when I reflectedthat in pleasure, however,aflbrded me peculiar with immense baggage, a partyof Europeans, through conducting than five hundred miles,I had alwaysbeen extent of more an with the natives. In terms able to preserve the most friendly demonstrates, 1st,That with common fact,this journeyplainly from of merchandise may be transported quantity prudence "

any

Nigerwithout dangerof beingrobbed by the in the dry natives ; 2dly,That if this journeybe performed than three or at losingnot more season, one may calculate on out of fifty. most four men But to return to the Niger. The river was much swelled by the rains, but did not appear to overflow its banks. It certainly We is larger here than eitherthe Senegalor the Gambia. even down the steep side of the hilltowards descended with difficulty and six o'clock, Bambakoo, which placewe reached at half-past Of thirty-four pitchedour tents under a tree near the town.

the Gambia

to

the

park's

324

in

travels

left the Gambia, only six four carpenterswho soldiersand one carpenterreached the Niger. During the nightthe wolves carried away two largecloth

soldiers and

considerable distance, where they ate off the skins with which theywere covered,and left the tent-door to

bundles from

a

them.

Aug. 20th. present. It was

a

all the

asses

Dooty

as

a

fastened it to the

we

w^ere

tied.

As

soon

dark the wolves tore itsbowels out, thoughwithin ten

it was

yardsof

the tent-door where

here

the

are

the

bullock from

and afternoon,

in the

close to the tent, where

tree as

Received

"

and largest Dried

21st.

Aug.

"

were

all sitting.The

wolves

ferocious we

have yet seen. of which bundle of beads,the strings

most a

we

Opened a leather bag which contained about thirty pounds of gunpowder for present use. Found it all wet and damaged. Spread it out in the sun ; resolved to make somethingof it. Spoke for a canoe to carry down the baggageto Marraboo,the river beingnavigable over the rapids In the course of our at this season. march from Toniba to Bambakoo, we lost Serjeant M'Keal,Purvey,and were

Samuel

Hill.

Aug.

22d.

"

Earlyin

the asses, and

on a

with the rain.

all rotten

the

carried to

morninghad all the bundles put the placeof embarkation, which is

called Bossradoo, about village

a

mile and

It rained hard all the forenoon.

a

The

bakoo. half east of Bamcanoes

could not

or any person excepttwo to look after carry any of the soldiers, the goods. I resolved to go down with Mr. Anderson,leaving

Mr. on

Martyn to the We

come

down

with the

men

by

land.

They

rode

asses.

embarked

current, which

without the

at

ten

minutes

past three o'clock.

The

is

nearly five knots per hour, set us along trouble of rowing any more than was necessary to

in the proper course. keep the canoe The river Englishmile over, and at the rapids it is spreadout

is full an to

nearly

THE

INTERIOK

that breadth.

OF

325

AFRICA.

The

to be formed by the rapidsseem river passing tion directhrougha ridgeof hillsin a south-easterly and correspond with the jetting ; theyare very numerous, anglesof the hills. There are three principal ones, where the

twice

breaks with considerable noise in the middle of the river ;

water

but the

canoe

the branches such

was

We

as

avoid easily

men

the shore.

near

make

to

course

Even

down by paddling

in this manner

the

one

of

velocity

sigh. and three smaller principal rapids,

me

of the

passedtwo

ones, in the

them

of the afternoon.

islands in the middle

of the river

We

saw

on

one

of the

of largeelephant ; it was red. clay colour,with black legs. I was a very unwell of otherwise I would have had a shot at him, for he dysentery, We saw three hippopotami close to another was quitenear us. afraid theymightfollow of these islands. The canoe were men us

and overset

the

canoes.

The

a

reportof

a

musket

will in all

They blow up the water exactly As we were like a whale. gliding alongshore one of the canoe the one I of the same as men species speareda fine turtle, At sunset we formerly saw, and made a drawingof in Gambia. flat rocks, and set about rowed to the shore,landed on some cookingthe turtle and rice for our supper ; but before this half dressed, the rain came aldermanic repast was on us, and continued with greatviolence all night. Aug. 23d. At daybreak embarked again,very wet and and arrived at Marraboo at nine sleepy. Passed the third rapid, found a largepassage hut,in which to o'clock. Our guidesoon for one stone of small amber per load. We our deposit baggage, In the evening carried the whole of it up in a few minutes. and all the people, Mr. Martyn arrived, excepttwo, who came up next day. x\ug.24th. Eeceived from the Dooty a small black bullock it in a present, which our guidewould not allow us to kill, is Sokee ; and name colour. The Booty's beingof a jet-black cases

them frighten

"

"

away.

park's

32.6

travels

in

.

he, that all the time we remained at Marwas superstitious that if he saw a raboo he kept himself in his hut, conceiving so

white

man

he would

never

prosper after.

Aug. 25th. Paid Isaaco goods to prime slaves,accordingto agreement. "

the full value of two I likewise gave

and told him that when the several articles, at Sego,he should then have all the asses

was palaver

and

him

adjusted

horses for his

trouble.

to giveto thingsas I meant silver-plated tureen; *two doublebarrelled guns, silver-mounted ; two pairof pistols mounted in scabbard ; thirty-two the same manner ; a sabre with morocco yardsscarletbroad cloth ; twelve dittoblue ; twelve ditto yellow; twelve ditto lightgreen ; * half a load of gunpowder,or two kegsand a half. * A To Mansong'seldest son Da : double barrelled-gun, silvermounted ; a pairof pistols, ditto ; a sabre, ditto.

Aug. 26th. Took out Mansong, viz. A handsome "

such

"

I wished to put

and

Mahomedans

a

at

stop to the malicious reportsof the Moors

Sego

as

soon

resolved to send Isaaco forward before

to

possible.I therefore Sego with all the articles as

mentioned,except those marked thus *, which I desired him to say to Modibinne would be given as soon I heard as accounts that Mansong would befriend us. is This Modibinne ant Mansong'sprime minister. He isa Mahomedan, but not intolerin his principles. Isaaco accordingly the 28th on departed with his wife and allhis goods. Ever since my arrival at Marraboo I had been subject to attacks of dysentery ; and as I found that my strength was failing very fast,I resolved to charge I accordingly took calomel tillit affected myselfwith mercury. that I could not speakor sleep for my mouth to such a degree, six days. The salivation put an immediate tery, stop to the dysenwhich had proved fatal to so many of the soldiers. As I recovered, soon I set about exchangingsome as amber and coral for cowries, which are the current money of Bambarra.

THE

INTERIOK

OF

327

AFRICA.

Cowries.

Coral No. 4, each stone Amber No. 5 Blue agates,per With

these

string

60

...

60 .

.

.100

three articles I

bought about twenty thousand cowries. It is curious that in countingthe cowries theycall eightya hundred ; whilst in all other thingstheycalculate by the common hundred. Sixtyis called a Manding hundred. On the 6th Thomas died of fever. I had Dyer (aprivate) thousand shells to Dooty Sokee, before he w^ould to pay one allow me to bury him ; alleging that if the ground was not it would never boughtwhere he was buried, grow goodcorn after. There is no wood proper for boat building in this neighbourhood is near Kankaree,on a largenavigable ; the best wood branch of the Niger,and almost all the Bambarra canoes come from thence ; many of them are mahogany. The travellers from Sego broughtus every day some and unfavourable news At one time it was or other. reported, believed allover Marraboo, that Mansong had killed Isaaco with with all the whites who his own hand,and would do the same into Bambarra. Our fears were should come at length dispelled by the arrival of Bookari,Mansong'ssingingman, on the 8th, He told us he (;ame by Mansong'sorders to with six canoes. baggage to Sego ; that Mansong thought convey us and our and wished us highlyof the presentswhich Isaaco had brought, to be broughtto Sego before he received them from Isaaco. We accordingly put our baggagein order ; but it was not till and his Somonies (canoepeople) the 12th that the singing man could be prevailed to leave Dooty Sokee's good beef and on We beer. embarked,and left Marraboo at ten minutes past three o'clock.

Sept.13th. Bookari sent four of the Somonies over to a a to put in requisition side of the river, the opposite on for carrying part of our baggage. The peoplerefused "

town canoe

park's

32S

give the canoe, and went Bookari immediately and havingcut the owner to

travels

sent

in

back

the Somonies

with allthe Somonies of the

canoe

across

his sword,and broke his brother'shead with a of his sons, and broughthim away seized one with the canoe. He, however,set the boy at

without

it.

(thirty-eight) ;

the forehead with he paddle, as a slave, along his father liberty, canoe

thousand shellsfor his release.

payingtwo

and minutes past eleven, thirty-five all day. In fact nothingcan be more pleasantly

left Koolikorro at

We

travelled very

beautiful than the views of this immense smooth

as

a

mirror,at other

river ; sometimes

times ruffled with

a

as

gentlebreeze,

sweeping us alongat the rate of six or seven halted for the nightat Deena, a Somoni We miles per hour. which the south side. Had a tornado in the night, on village in the canoes wetted our Most of us slept to baggagemuch.

but

all times

at

prevent theft.

Departedfrom Deena earlyin the morning, and arrived at Yamina at forty-five minutes past four o'clock. Halted here the 15th,in order to purchase cowries. On the 16th leftYamina, and in the eveningreached Samee, where we landed our baggage; and Bookari went forward to Sego to inform Mansong of our arrival. Sept.18th. No accounts from Sego. Sept. 19th. About two o'clock in the morning Isaaco arrived in a canoe from Sego,with allthe articlesI had sent to Mansong. Mansong had never yet seen any of them ; and when he heard that I was arrived at Samee, he desired ModiSept.14th. "

"

"

binne to inform Samee own

lis

;

and

hand.

Isaaco that he had best take the articlesup to

he would

send

Isaaco informed

a me

from my that Mansong,at all the interviews

person

to receive them

he had with him, uniformly declared that he would allow to pass ; but whenever Isaaco mentioned or us particularly,

related any incident that had

happenedon

immediately began to

squares

make

and

the

Mansong journey, in the sand triangles

THE

before him with his Isaaco was a

spoke about

rather afraid of wish to

see

INTERIOR

and finger, us.

us

;

In

continued to do

as he particularly

never

longas thoughtMansong so

once

so

expressed

contrary.

evening,Modibinne and four more of Mansong'sfriends arrived in a canoe. They sent for me, and Modibinne told me that theywere come by Mansong'sorders to hear,from my own mouth,what had broughtme into Bambarra. He said I might think on it duringthe night, and theywould visit me in the morning; he said Mansong had sent me a which he showed me ; it was very fat, and milk white. bullock, Modibinne Sept. 23d. As soon as we had breakfasted, When and the four grandeescame to visitus. they had seated and the usual compliments Modibinne desired themselves, passed, them with the motives which had induced me to to acquaint me into their country. 1 spoke to them in the Bambarra come I am who nine years ago the white man languageas follows :" I then came into Bambarra. to Sego, and requested came to pass to the eastwards ; he not only Mansong'spermission permittedme to pass, but presentedme with five thousand the road ; for you allknow cowries to purchase on provisions had robbed me of my goods. This generous that the Moors much has made his name conduct of Mansong towards me in the land of the white people. The king of that respected againinto Bambarra, and if Mansong is country has sent me wish to inclined to protectme, and you, who are here sitting, of my coming befriend me, 1 will inform you of the real object into your country." (Here Modibinne desired me to speakon, as theywere all friends). You all know that the white peopleare a my tradingpeople; and that all the articles of value,which the Moors and the peopleof Jinnie bring to Sego,are made by us. If you speakof a good gun, who made it? the white peopU, If of scarletor baft, or sword,or piece you speakof a good pistol "

the

329

AFRICA.

Isaaco said that he

us, but rather the

Sept.22d.

OF

"

*'

"

330

or

IN

S TRAVELS

PARK -

beads

made

who gunpowder,

or

them?

the white people.We

bring them to Timbuctoo, The peopleof Timbuctoo rate. where theysellthem at a higher of Jinnie at a stillhigherpriee sellthem to the people ; and the peopleof Jinnie sell them to you. Now, the king of the white peoplewishes to find out a way by which we may bring our merchandise to you, and sellevery thingat a much cheaper own For this purpose, if Mansong have them. rate than you now the Johba to the will permit to pass, I propose saiHngdown me placewhere it mixes with the salt water ; and if I find no rocks the white men's small vessels will come or danger in the way, I have now up and trade at Sego,if Mansong wishes it. What spoken,I hope and trust you will not mention to any person except Mansong and his son ; for if the Moors should hear of it, be murdered before I reach the salt water." I shall certainly sell them

to the

Moors ; the Moors

answered

Modibinne

:

"

We

have

heard

w^hat you have God prosper may

journeyis a good one, and AVe will you in it; Mansong will protectyou. words to Mansong this afternoon ; and to-morrow we spoken.

Your

I made

his answer."

you

which

I had

allotted for

carry

your

wall

bring Isaaco show them the differentthings They were Mansong and his son.

deKghtedwith the tureen,the double-barrelled guns, and in fact far superior to any thingof the kind theyhad every thingwas before

ever

seen.

I had laid out every

When I then made

each of the Modibinne

scarletcloth.

thingfor Mansong and his son, and Modibinne,a presentof grandees, said that they had seen what 1 now

laid out for Mansong and his son, and that the presentwas great, and worthyof Mansong ; but,added he, Mansong has heard so many

reports concerningyour

examine

it.

"

baggage,that

Such of the bundles

as

are

he wishes

us

to

covered with skin,

will not

open ; you will tell us what is in them, and that will be sufficient." I told them that I had nothingbut what

we

was

necessary

for

purchasingprovisions ; and

that it would

THE

INTERIOR

OF

331

AFRICA.

with openingthe bundles. pleaseme much if theycould dispense and I ordered the bundles to be They, however,persisted; broughtout, takingcare, with the assistance of the soldiers, to secrete all the good amber and coral. When all the loads were I asked Modibinne what inspected, he thoughtof my baggage? If he had seen any more silver tureens,or double-barrelled guns ? He said he had seen nothing that was had,and nothingbut what was necessary for purchasing to Mansong. They provisions ; that he would report the same went accordingly away to Sego ; but without takingMansong's present, tilltheyhad heard his answer. died during the Sept.24th. Seed and Barber (soldiers) of fever,the other of dysentery. Paid the night; one Somonies twenty stones of amber for buryingthem. Sept.25th. Modibinne and the same peoplereturned with Mansong'sanswer, a literaltranslationof which I giveas follows. Mansong says he will protectyou ; that a road is open for you If you wish every where,as far as his hand (power)extends. to go to the east,no man shallharm you from Sego tillyou pass Timbuctoo ; if j^ou wish to go to the west, you may travel through of Fooladoo and Manding,throughKasson and Bondou; the name for you. If you Mansong'sstrangerwill be a sufScient protection wish to build your boats at Samee or Sego,at Sansandingor the town, and Mansong will convey you thither.'' Jinnie,name that Mansong wished me to sellhim He concluded by observing, which three swords, a fiddle (violin) four of the blunderbusses, Birmingham bead necklaces, belongedto Mr. Scott,and some which pleased above every thing; that he had sent us a bullock, and his son another,with a fine sheep. I told Modibinne that than the articles value to me of more was Mansong'sfriendship and that I would be happyif Mansong would he had mentioned, acccept them from me as a farther proofof my esteem. out our I made choice of Sansanding for fitting canoe, "

"

"

*'

because

Manson^r

had

never

said he wished

to

see

me,

and

332 I could live

because

IN

S TRAVELS

PARK

and quieter

freer from

beggingthan

at

Sego. I thereforesent down the bullocks by land to Sansanding. The canoes were Sept.26th. We departedfrom Samee. covered with mats ; and there being no wind, the sun not I felt myselfaffected with a violent hot. became insufferably headache,which increased to such a degreeas to make me felt so hot a day ; there was sensible almost delirious I never "

heat sufficientto

have roasted

a

sirloin; but the thermometer

bundle in the other canoe, the actual heat. We passeddown in

was

a

so a

that I could not ascertain small stream

to

the north

the to SegoseeKorro,near Sego Korro, and halted opposite sand hills, where I formerly waited for a passage. We waited here about an hour for Isaaco,who had gone to SegoseeKorro to inform Mansong of our he passing.When Isaaco returned, of

made

a

of shade

sort

coupleof cloaks ; and

over

in the

and less feverish.

bank,where water

of

often

there

are

sleep. We

our

canoe

eveningI

At sunset

some

we

with four sticks and found

lected col-

myselfmore

rowed towards

a

the north

flatrocks, on

found

which passengers by the placeoccupiedby a number

and forty fires; we people. I counted between thirty and slept passedon a littleto the eastwards, on

fore therea

sand

bank covered with verdure. and in Sept.27th. At day-break we againproceeded, to gain the middle of the river, over stretching we passeda Somoni fishing island ; the huts occupied on an the whole village of the dry ground,and it appeared, when close to it,like even a floating village.We reached Sansandingat ten o'clock. Such crowds of peoplecame to the shore to see us, that we could not land our baggage tillthe peoplewere beaten away with sticks, whose premises by Koontie Mamadie's orders, on we accommodated were with a largehut for sitting in, having another hut openinginto it, in which we deposited our baggage. Oct. 2d. Marshall and W. Garland (privates) died; one of fever,the other of dysentery.During the night the "

"

THE

wolves carried away died

beingleftopen.

in

corn-fieldnear

a

Oct. 4th.

INTERIOR

OF

333

AFRICA.

Garland, the door of the hut where he Buried Marshall

on

the

morningfollowing,

the church.

Mansong sent down two broken gun-locks, and a largepewter plate with a hole in the bottom of it,for me with much difficulty that I could persuade to repair ; and it was the messenger that none of us knew anythingabout such occupations. Oct. 6th. Z"a, Mansong'seldest son, sent one canoe as and requested to sellhim a blunderbuss and three a present, me swords,with some blue and yellowbroad cloth. Sent him three swords,and ten spans of yellowcloth ; received in return six "

"

thousand San

cowries.

sanding contains, accordingto

eleven thousand inhabitants. It has acciount,

Koontie

Mamadie's

public buildings, except the mosques, two of which,thoughbuilt of mud, are by is a largesquare, and means no inelegant.The market-place the different articles of merchandise are exposedfor sale on no

with mats, to shade them from the sun. from morningto night; is crowded with people

The

stalls covered market

some

of

beads ; others indigoin balls; others wood-ashes in balls; others Houssa and Jinnie cloth. I stallwith nothingbut antimony in small bits ; observed one

the stalls contain

another with

nothingbut

third with copper and silver rings the square is sold scarlet, In the houses fronting

and sulphur,

and bracelets.

a

amber, silksfrom Morocco, and tobacco,which looks like Levant Adjoiningthis is tobacco,and comes by way of Timbuctoo. of the square. corner one the salt market,partof which occupies A slab of salt is sold commonly for eightthousand cowries ; a is in the centre of the square, and or shade, largebutcher's stall, fat meat sold every day as any in England. The as good and under two largetrees ; and beer market is at a littledistance, there

are

exposedfor sale from eightyto one hundred about two gallons.Near beer,each containing

often

calabashes of

park's

334 the beer market

is the

travels

placewhere

in

red and

yellowleather

is

sold. there is a very largespace market-places, for the greatmarket every Tuesday. On which is appropriated from the country to crowds of peoplecome this day astonishing and retail them in the diflferent purchasearticlesin wholesale, There are etc. commonly from sixteen to twenty villages, largefat Moorish bullocks killed on the market morning. As Oct. 8th. Mansong had delayedmuch longer in he promisedthan I expected, I thoughtit sendingthe canoes of shellsto purwith a sufficientquantity best to be provided chase I when reflected that the river would two, particularly of a few days,havingsunk this morning subside in the course about four inches by the shore. I therefore opened shop in of European great style,and exhibited a choice assortment Besides these

"

articles to be sold in wholesale

great run, which I suppose drew

or

retail. I had

of

course

a

the envy of my brother merchants ; for the Jinnie people, the Moors,and the merchants here joinedwith those of the same at Sego,and (in description on

me

from whose mouth presence of Modibinne,

I had

it)offeredto give

of merchandise of greatervalue than all the Mansong a quantity and either presentsI had made him,ifhe would seizeour baggage, killus, or send us back againout of Bambarra. They alleged that my objectwas to kill Mansong and his sons of by means and seize on the charms,that the white peoplemight come the proposal, country. Mansong,much to his honour,rejected thoughit was seconded by two-thirds of the peopleof Sego,and almost all Sansanding. From the 8th to the 16th nothingof consequence occurred. I found my shop and more crowded with customers every day more ;

forced to

and such

my run of business that I three tellersat once to count

was

employ turned one market-day thousand twenty-five of money (cowries). fifty-six pieces

seven

was

my

sometimes cash.

hundred

I

and

THE

OF

INTERIOK

335

AFRICA.

The second

day aftermy arrival at Marraboo,as no accounts whatever had arrived concerning Mr. Scott, I sent a messenger him to bring Mr. Scott,or some to Koomikooml, desiring He returned in four days,and told us that of him. account Mr, Scott was dead,and that the natives had stolen the pistols of the holsters ; but he had broughtthe horse to Bamout bakoo.

enquiredof Isaaco what sort of a return of presentswould be most agreeableto me, Isaaco (being said he believed two instructed before) largecanoes ; and When

Modibinne

Modibinne

assured

me

that the

on Sansandingimmediately

Oct. 16th.

"

Modibinne

would

canoes

be

sent

down

to

arrivalthere.

our

and

Jower

and arrived,

told

me

from Mansong. I went to see theyhad broughta canoe half of it,which was quite rotten. to one it,and objected They sent up to Sego for another half,but when it arrived it would therefore forced to send I was sent. not fit the one already Isaaco againto Sego ; and as Mansong had requested me by I mighthave,I sent two Modibinne to sellhim any spare arms and five two two fowling-pieces, pairof pistols, blunderbusses, in return that Mansong would unserviceable muskets,requesting to purchase either send a proper canoe, or permitme one, that I might proceedon my journey. Isaaco returned on the 20th with a largecanoe very much decayedand ; but half of it was the best half to the half patched. I therefore set about joining Bolton formerlysent, and with the assistance of Abraham all the and repaired took out all the rotten pieces, (private), days'hard labour, holes and sewed places ; and with eighteen schooner Joliba ; changedthe Bambarra canoe into His Majesty's the lengthfortyfeet,breadth six feet ; being flat bottomed, draws only one foot water when loaded. At a quarter past five o'clock in the morning, Oct. 28th. that

"

my

dear friend Mr. Alexander

four months.

I feel much

Anderson

inclinedto

died,aftera sickness of

speakof his merits

;

but

park's

336

in

travels

.

I will rather friends, and imitate his cool and steady in silence, cherish his memory in which they conduct,than weary my friends with a panegyric to join. I shall only observe that no event cannot be supposed threw the smallest which took placeduring the journeyever gloom over my mind, tillI laid Mr. Anderson in the grave. I and friendless, then felt myselfas if lefta second time,lonely as

his worth

only to

known

was

few

a

amidst the wilds of Africa. Nov.

14th.

The

"

schooner

is

now

departure.I only wait for Isaaco's may givehim this paper in charge. Nov. was

15th.

Isaaco returned,and

"

anxious that I should

departas

bullock hides to form

of the Surka

arrows

or

Soorka

soon

that

Mansong before as possible, coming. Bought us

from the spears and Mahinga,who inhabit

awning to

an

told

of my

the Moors to the east had intimation and

nearlyready for our return from Sego that I

secure

us

the north bank of the river betwixt Jinnie and Timbuctoo. All

Nov. 16th. "

evening.

I will

ready,and

sail to-morrow

morning or therefore conclude this longepistle with some we

miscellaneous information. Nimma

risesin the

Kong mountains south of Marraboo ; it passes one day's journeysouth of Sego,and havingreceived a branch from Miniana, emptiesitselfinto the lake Dibbie. It is not quitehalf so largeas the Niger. 1 have not the least doubt of the truth of this, havingheard it from so many people. We shallnot see Jinnie in goingto Timbuctoo. Ba

Route From

Sego

canoes, and halt

in

one

from Segoto

Miniam.

day, Deena, cross

the Ba

Nimma

in

the south side ; thence in one day,DahmaNeaguana,Mullo Soo, Billi Soo ; in allseven days. roo, Sijirri, The inhabitants of Miniana eat their enemies,and strangers, if theydie in the country. They eat the flesh of horses ; but on

THE

INTERIOR

such .istheir veneration when

OF

for the

cow

that she

she dies theyeat the flesh. Miniana cultivated the

are grains

Route

same

337

AFRICA.

is

is

never

killed;

hilly.All

the

in Bambarra.

as

from Segoto

Bcedoo.

From

Sego in one day. Koogoo,N. goi,*Jeena,Dooa Wassoo,Choyna,Guandoo on the banks of the Badingfing, small river from Miniana. Cheraboo, Baboo,Blendoo,Koolokoo, Nemansana,Kooli,Chemosoo,N. jeera, Kay-a,Wangeera,Jibbi, Chekora,Koonteela,Doomba, Choongi,Teng : gera, a great Juli town magee,

Juli is called in Baedoo,Kirko Bimba ; TeeleeSoomasoo, Koorinsoo,Jondoo ; Juli town, Sala,N. ;

a

Kannoo, Juli town. in Bambarra. are foregoing places in Baedoo. a town Totti, Baedoo,the capital. The Julis are peoplewho understand the languageof and Baedoo and Miniana,and are employedas interpreters One month's travel south of brokers by the salt merchants. Baedoo throughthe kingdom of Gotto will bringthe travellerto who have their houses on the the country of the Christians, banks of the Ba Seafeena, This water theyrepresent as being incomparably largerthan the lake Dibbie,and that the water The

whole of the

sometimes

flows

Shea trees in On and

one

way,

Kong

or

sometimes another.

Gotto,and

the 16th of November

There

are

no

very few in Baedoo.

being completed, for the voyage. Park put the the schooner

made preparation ing of the succeedhand to his journal finishing ; and in the course days previousto the embarkation,which appears to have taken placeon the 19th,WTOte lettersto his father-in-lawMr. Anderson,Sir Joseph Banks, Lord Camden, and Mrs. Tark. is here That addressed to the latter, beingthe most interesting, and cannot be read without emotion. insertedat length, every

*

Thus written in Park's MS. Z

park's

338

in

travels

To Mrs. Park. 19th Sansanding,

It grieves me

"

to the heart to write

November

1805.

anythingthat

may doeth all

uneasiness ; but such is the will of him who is brother Alexander,my dear friend, Your well!

you

no

give things more!

Sansandingon the morning of the 28th of I must refer you to your father. October ; for particulars with a woman's fears and the afraid that,impressed I am anxieties of a wife,you may be led to consider my situation as is. It is true, my dear friends than it really a greatdeal worse Mr. Anderson and GeorgeScott have both bid adieu to the things of this world,and the greaterpart of the soldiershave died on believe me, I. the march duringthe rainyseason ; but you may in good health. The rains are completely am over, and the has commenced, so that there is no dangerof healthyseason and I have stilla sufficientforce to protectme from sickness, down the river to the sea. any insult in sailing We and shall sail have already embarked all our things, died of fever at

He

"

"

the moment land

nor

will be

embark

by the so

that

I have finishedthis letter. I do not intend to

anywhere,till we time

some

we

reason

of

which

came

the coast, which of January. We

expect to our

I suppose

shall then

have to go round three months longer,

England. If we

the Indies,

voyage will occupy be in England on the

1st of

May. The rainyseason,

delaysince we leftthe coast was the on us duringthe journey; and almost

soldiersbecame "

in the end

in the firstvessel for

West

reach

I think

stop

all the

afiected with the fever. it not

but unlikely

England before you receive this. You may be sure that I feelhappy at turning We, this morning,have done with all my face towards home. intercoursewith the natives ; and the sailsare now for hoisting our for the coast." departure *

"

I shall be in

*

*

THE

Here

information

His

and

and

Gambia, time

some

the

of the

the

native

settlements

killed.

These

being

received,

Senegal,

enough

with

left

As

the

the

governor

in

the

from

State

down

the

was

and

Colonial

made

transmitted

Department.

to

and

and of

he upon was

subject, he

guide

Niger. this

Senegal

by

him

w^ere

send was

a

journal who The

had

by to

the the

of

fortunate

this

mission. about

absent

1811,

Park's

death.

delivered

which

to

himself he

had

accompanied

following

singular

Park

proper

September

concerning

another

of

but

Governor

proceedings kept by

the

at

British

companions

then

go

1st

this

whole

the

brought

intelligence of

to

the

into

principal portion

the

his

no

1810,

including

Sansanding

and

reports

inquiries

Fatouma,

and

reports,

on

in

currently reported,

guide,

the

Amadi

Maxwell, for

the

but

the

to

to

For

;

were

Africa

Government

from of

of his

of

Isaaco

expedition

accounts

was

January

of

journal

Fatoumi's

Colonel

his

the

by

England.

to

Maxwell,

returned

language,

from

of Amadi

of a

Arabic

received Park

in

Senegal

of

Park

Isaaco, Park's

He

result

that

truth

full confirmation

a

it

increasing,

the

thence

interior

and

;

permission

months.

twenty

coast

the

Lieutenant-colonel

engage

Isaaco

from

unfortunately

brought

were

unfavourable

1806

rumours

ascertain

to

was

authority,

obtained

to

person

heard

the

distinct

no

upon

farther

traders on

journal from

year

Park

concerning

transmitted

nothing

course

by

letters

339

AFRICA.

OF

all authentic

terminates. the

INTERIOR

lation trans-

document

of

directions

of

Secretary

of

park's

340

FATOUMI'S

AMADI

W

travels

in

JOURNAL.

in a canoe the 27th day of the from Sansanding departed where Mr. Park ended in two days to Silla, moon, and went his firstvoyage. Mr. Park bought a slave to helphim in the Mr. Park,Martyn,three of the canoe. There was navigation preter, other white men, three slaves, and myselfas guide and interWithout landing nine in number to navigate the canoe. we bought the slave. We went in two daysto Ginne. We In passing pieceof baft and w^ent on. gave the chief one Dibbie three canoes after us, armed with pikes, came lances, bows and arrows, etc.,but no fire-arms. Being sure of their hostileintentions, ordered them to go back,but to no effect, we and were We them by force. Passed on. obhged to repulse passedKabra ; three came passage, which we up to stop our repelledby force. On passingTimbuctoo we were again attacked by three canoes, which we beat off,always killing Gouroumo came seven canoes many of the natives. On passing E

after us, which

by

sickness.

we

We

likewise beat off. We reduced to

lost

one

white

man

eighthands,havingeach of fifteen muskets, always in order and ready for action. us Passed by a village the name),the (ofwhich I have forgotten residence of King Gotoijege which we counted ; after passing sixtycanoes and killed a coming after us, which we repulsed, great number of men. and our Seeingso many men killed, over superiority them, I took hold of Martyn'shand,saying, for we "Martyn, let us cease firing, have killed too many which Martyn wanted to kill me, had not Mr. on already ; Park interfered. After passing met a longway, we Gotoijege "

were

THE

INTERIOR

very strongarmy on Poul nation ; theyhad the other

On rose

and side,

went

us, and had

beasts of any kind. We without hostiHties. on

struck on the rocks.

goingalongwe

near

no

341

AFRICA.

side of the river, composedof the

one

a

OF

nearlyoverset

the

An

canoe

;

passedon

hippopotamus fired on the

we

animal and

drove it away. After a great deal of trouble we got offthe canoe without any material danger. We came to an anchor before

KafFo,and passedthe day there. We

had in the

from Sansanding, stock a very large departed of provisions, salted and fresh of all kinds, which enabled us to at any placefor fear of accident. go alongwithout stopping The canoe was largeenoughto contain with ease one hundred and twenty people. In the eveningwe started and came to before an island. We saw on shore a greatquantity of hippopotami our approachthey went into the water in such ; on confusion that they almost upset our canoe. We passedthe before

canoe,

island and

sailed. In the

after us, which

came

and island,

One

on

saw

milk.

buy some go

we

morning three

beat off. We

we

of the natives.

some

When

I

board to sellfresh of the natives wanted

got

among

was

them

such provisions, to killme

to

came

I

from

canoes

I as

near

sent

on

saw

two

a

Kaffo small

shore to canoes

fowls,rice,etc.

; at lasthe took hold of

prisoner.Mr. Park seeingwhat was the truth. He stoppedthe two passingon shore,suspected to them, that if and people, the people canoes belonging telling on shore,he would kill theyshould kill me, or keep me prisoner them all, and carry theircanoes away with him. Those on shore off in another canoe sent me Mr. Park's intentions, suspecting board. on They were then released ; afterwhich we bought from them, and made them some some presents. provisions after came A short time after our departure, twenty canoes us from the same place. On coming near, theyhailed and said, Amadi Fatouma, how can you pass throughour country what theyhad said without giving us anything.I mentioned me, and

said I

was

his

"

z2

park's

342

in

travels

of amber and some Park,and he gave them a few grains back peaceably.On coming to a and they went trinkets, the shore a greatmany saw on shallow part of the river,we down. men Coming nearer to them theystood up ; we sitting muskets to them, which made them run off to the our presented

to

Mr.

interior. A littlefurther on The

rocks had

open

between

the

we

came

to

a

very difficult passage.

barred the river ; but three passages were On coming near of them, we them. one

still covered dis-

peopleagainstandmg on the top of a large to me, and rock,which caused great uneasiness to us, especially I seriously promisednever to pass there againwithout making same

considerable charitable donations to the poor. We returned, and went to a pass of less danger, where we passedunmolested. We

came

of baft.

We

Park sent

me

to before went

on

Carmasse,and and

anchored

gave

the chief one

piece

before Gourmon.

Mr.

shore with

fortythousand cowries to buy provisions. I went and boughtrice, onions,fowls,milk,etc.,and departedlate in the evening. The chief of the village sent a after us, to let us know of a largearmy encamped on canoe the top of a very high mountain,waitingfor us ; and that we had better return,or be on our guard. We immediately came to an anchor,and spent there the rest of the day,and allthe night. We started in the morning. On passingthe abovementioned mountain,we saw the army, composedof Moors, with horses and camels,but without As they said any firearms. nothingto us, we passedon quietly, and entered the country of Haoussa,and came to an anchor. Mr. Park said to me, Now, Amadi, you are at the end of your journey; I engagedyou to conduct me here ; you are goingto leave me, but before you go, of the necessaries of life, give me the names you must etc.,in the language of the countries through which I am goingto pass ; to which I agreed, and we spent two daystogetherabout it, without landing. During our the onlyone who voyage I was had landed. We departed and arrived at Yaour. on

"

"

INTERIOR

THE

OF

343

AFRICA.

%

I

sent

was

sabre,to

shore the next

on

carry to the chief of the

of white baft for distribution.

present*;I also gave and

the other

ordered

I went

and gave the chief his

to Alhagi-biron, one pieceto Alhagi, I forget, allMarabous. to a person whose name three jars of honey,and four us a bullock, a sheep,

The chief gave men's loads of rice. and

morningwith a musket and a also with three pieces village,

one

Mr. Park gave

me

thousand cowries, I did ; he told me to

seven

which buy provisions, some powder and go to the chief and givehim five silverrings, and tellhim that these presentswere flints, givenfor the king* by the white men, who were takingleave of him before they he After the chief had received these things, went away. back. Mr. Park intended to come enquiredif the white men that he could not return replied beinginformed of this enquiry, for my voyage before we any more.f Mr. Park had paid me the leftSansanding ; I said to him, I agreedto carry you into I have fulfilled kingdom of Haoassa ; we are now in Haoussa. therefore going to leave you my engagements with you ; I am me

to

"

here and return." in the and* I slept Mr. Park departed, day (Saturday) village (Yaour). Next morning I went to the kingto pay my who the house I found two men respectsto him ; on entering sent by the chief of Yaour. came on horseback;they were They said to the king, We are sent by the chief of Yaour to let you know that the white men went away, without giving chief) you or him (the any thing; theyhave a greatmany things with them, and we have received nothing from them ; and this wise Amadi Fatouma, now before you, is a bad man, and has likeordered The king immediately made a fool of you both." done, and every to be put in irons ; which was accordingly me me, and some thingI had taken from me ; some were for killing

Next

"

*

The

kingstayeda

few hundred

yardsfrom

the river.

of Mr. Park's t These words occasioned his death ; for the certainty from the king. induced the chief to withhold the presents returning

not

pake's

344 for

preserving my

life. The

travels

next

in

morning earlythe king sent

the river side. There called Boussa,near village the whole breadth of the river. a rock across is before this village One partof the rocks is very high; there is a largeopeningin that rock in the form of a door,which is the onlypassage for the water to pass through ; the tide-current is here very strong. of the top of this opening. This army went and took possession had posteditself; he there after the army Mr. Park came an

to

army

a

attemptedto pass. The peoplebegan to attack him, throwinglances,pikes,arrows, and stones. Mr. Park defended himself for a longtime ; two of his slaves at the stern of the canoe killed; theythrew everything were theyhad in the and keptfiring into the river, canoe by ; but beingoverpowered the numbers and fatigue, and unable to keep up canoe against Mr. Park took hold the current,and no probabihty of escaping, of one of the white men, and jumped into the water ; Martyn did the same, and theywere drowned in the stream in attempting The onlyslave remainingin the boat,seeingthe to escape. natives persist in throwing without ceasing, weapons at the canoe stood up and said to them Stopthrowingnow, you see nothing in the canoe, and nobodybut myself, therefore cease. Take me and the canoe, but don't kill me." of the They took possession and the man, and carried them to the king. canoe I was keptin irons three months ; the kingreleased me and slave (woman). I immediately a went to the slave gave me nevertheless

"

taken in the canoe, who told me in what manner Mr. Park and allof them had died,and what I have related above. I asked him ifhe was sure nothinghad been found in the canoe afterits but himself capture; he said that nothingremained in the canoe and

a

sword-belt. I asked him where the sword-belt

he said the

king took

it,and

had made

a

girthfor

was

;

his horse

with it.

Thus

indeperished Mungo Park,whose enterprising spirit,

THE

INTERIOR

OF

345

AFRICA.

activity,calm fortitude and unshaken travellers have none certainlyever equalled,

fatigablevigilanceand few

perseverance,

surpassed. In

his person

perfectlywell appearance

were

he

proportioned. His countenance his frame highlyinteresting ; and and

robust, fitted for great exertions

hardships. His

six feet

tall, being about

was

constitution

the

suffered

had

JCDIMBU"GH:

FBINTKl)

END.

BI

E.

AND

B.

whole

active and of great

considerablyfrom

his first

THE

and

endurance

journeyinto Africa,but seems have been restored to its originalvigour,of expeditionafibrded the most ample proofs. effects of

high,yet

CI.ABK.

afterwards which

his

the to

last

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