• Author / Uploaded
• Paul Adams

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Tools and materials for the Bulletproof Glide (Jerk) Bait Fishing Lure

Wood 75mm x 15mm

(3” x ½”)

Double sided tape or none

I used whitewood skirting board, this is low grade spruce and about the lowest density wood I would use for this project. Harder woods like beech, oak, ash, mahogany would work well and need less added weight to sink them.

To stick template to wood

permanent glue

Bandsaw, jigsaw

To cut lure blank out

Or coping saw

Alufibre 200gsm

I used about 1/3 of an A4 sheet to cover this lure. It is often available in small quantities on ebay but it is can also be found at glass fibre reinforcement suppliers but normally in larger quantities and it is often advertised as Silver Carbon Fibre.

A5 Polypropylene or

This is to provide a mould surface. Both of these plastics are used in things like file dividers and can often be found in art shops in sheet form. A good Alternative is a smooth silicone baking sheet from the supermarket. If you unsure about the material test it with a small amount of epoxy, but remember to leave to fully cure for a day before trying to remove it.

Polyethylene

Scissors and scotch tape

Envirotex Lite Epoxy resin

Gloves, glue spreaders

This is a low viscosity slow curing epoxy resin that maintains good flexibility when cured and is also water clear. It is normally available from craft suppliers, jewellery making suppliers and some lure making parts suppliers.

These are the bits and pieces that I often pick up in the kids craft section of the local supermarket.

And mixing cups

Small blowlamp

The blow lamp is for popping air bubbles trapped in the surface film. As an alternative a hair dryer or heat gun will also work.

100 grit sandpaper

Removing saw marks and cleaning up lure blank

400 grit wet dry paper

scratching the cured composite to provide a key for other layers

5 minute epoxy

As the name suggests this is a fast setting epoxy that is generally thicker than Envirotex and better able to fill gaps and also a good sealer for the bare wood.

Electric Router and

This is easiest method I found to successfully shape the edge of the lure but there are some health and safety considerations.

6.5mm (1/4”) Bearing Guide tungsten carbide Round over bit

Routing or cutting composite materials can create dust or particles that can irritate and damage the skin, eyes and lungs. I used a suitable respirator, glasses and a barrier cream. All supplies should keep safety sheets for their products and I would advise reading them and following their advice and product instructions.

Clamps and battens to same thickness as the lure body and also a thin piece of cardboard the same thickness as the composite to make up the difference under tail and clamp.

Drill press and vice Or a steady hand 2mm

hss drill

8-10mm 5/16”-3/8”

Drilling out the hook hanger holes and for pilot holes Drilling out weight holes

Wood bit or hss drill

For the displacement vessel Milk bottle, scissors, adhesive tape, measuring jug, scales, cling film

Casting the weights

Pewter or lead

Modern Pewter is a nontoxic tin alloy of tin and copper with small amounts of bismuth, antimony and sometimes zinc . It has a very low melting point 180-220 C depending on the mix, its drawback is price but it can be readily sourced from junk sales where it use in ornaments like tankards which are often marked as pewter. Lead on the other hand is toxic, my concern with using too often is not poisoning fish from lost lures but poisoning myself but it easy to find as scrap or to buy from roofing suppliers. It is also a lot denser than pewter so volume wise less is required. Other alternatives are brass bar or stainless ball bearings

Electric of gas hob

melting pewter

Metals cup with spout Pliers

15mm (1/2”) MDF

8-10mm (5/16 to 3/8”)

I found making the weights .5mm smaller than the cavity in lure

Wood or hss drill bit

made it easier to fit them later.

Hooks and hardware

2x Size 1 treble hook

I used VMC 9626ps treble hooks

2x 6mm ( ¼”) Stainless Split rings 3 x 25mm x 1.5mm wire

Stainless screw eyes

These screw eyes are available from lure making suppliers such as lureparts.com in the USA and Lureparts NL in Europe. I generally make a slightly larger hole than the screw eye and fill it with 5 min epoxy before pushing the screw eye home. I find this gives a much better bond than wiping epoxy on the thread a screwing it into a tighter hole

4mm (1/6”) Balsa sheet

Good alternatives to making balsa caps for the weight hole covers

(1” x .072” wire)

are 5min epoxy or wood filler.

8-10mm (5/16 to 3/8”) Leather or washer punch

Spraying

Masking tape Airbrush and Compressor Createx White, black and red acrylic airbrush paint Createx reducer (thinner) Daley Rowney FW Shimmering blue ink Helping hands stand

For holding the lure while spraying

Heat gun or hair dryer

For setting the paint

Eyes 8mm half dome beads Aluminium foil tape

Clear coating Drying/Coating rack

This was made from a disco ball motor which runs off the mains and has an rpm of 1.5 to 3. Paper clip wire is used to hold the lure in position and a swivel at the other end lets it rotate. Disco ball motors can be found online or at electronics retailers

Gloves, paintbrush, Envirotex, mixing pots, blowlamp Mica powder

Go Fish

In small amounts this adds a sparkle without effecting the transparency or the clear coat. It is available online from craft and carding suppliers.