• Author / Uploaded
• Tomo Franc

Citation preview

essional chef N IN TH EDITION

The Culinary Institute of America ure X L'U N A R Y \ CIN STITUTE

^AMERICAJ

T H E W O R L D 'S P R E M IE R C U LIN A R Y C O LLEG E

This book is printed on acid-free paper. @ Copyright © 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved

THE C ULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA President Vice-President, Dean of Culinary Education

Dr. Tim Ryan 1 1 Mark Erickson '77

Senior Director, Educational Enterprises

Susan Cussen

Director of Publishing

Nathalie Fischer

Editorial Project Managers

Lisa Lahey '00, Margaret Wheeler '00

Editorial Assistants

Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08

Published by John W iley /■ -

'

931

'■* r .

*

^ '

945

t ' ^

i”'* ’ f

985

- Txr,

•

JL

v

% ■

,

PART S EVEN

baking and pastry chapter 31 BAKING MISE EN PLACE chapter 32 YEAST BREADS

1015 %

1025

Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS

,

1047 r

Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND MOUSSES

1091

nr.:. d chapter 35

FILLIN G S, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES

1107 ;Q

chapter 36

PLATED DESSERTS

1161

Glossary

1167

J fl

Readings and R esources Recipe Index S u b je c tln d e x

1185

1191 1202

4

>>

1131 ,

A pp en d ix

%"

*

.

H

T_

s

v

-

S

fS

p -

• ,.

master recipe list chapter 12 stocks Chicken Stock

Hollandaise Sauce

263

MALTAISE SAUCE

WHITE VEAL STOCK

263

WHITE BEEF STOCK

Beurre Blanc

263

Brown Veal Stock

263

BROWN GAME STOCK (JU S DE G IB IE R ) 2 6 4 ESTOUFFADE

298

MOUSSELINE SAUCE

298

299

Puree of Lentil Soup

Pesto

Puree of Split Pea Soup 3 4 5

299

264

PIMIENTO BUTTER

BROWN PORK STOCK

264

GREEN ONION BUTTER

BROWN DUCK STOCK

DILL BUTTER

264

SHELLFISH STOCK

264

Vegetable Stock 2 6 5 Court Bouillon

Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean Soup 3 4 5

30 0 300

Senate Bean Soup

300

Vichyssoise

BASIL BUTTER

Shrimp Bisque

30 0

Beef Consomme

CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE.

Royale Custard

Ichi Ban Dashi

Chicken Broth 3 3 4

333

333

chapter 13 sauces 293 293

JUS DE CANARD LIE

LAM B BROTH

293

JUS D'AGNEAU LIE:

FISH BROTH

293

Onion Soup

Espagnole Sauce 2 9 4 Chicken Veloute FISH VELOUTE

294

SHRIMP VELOUTE

Bechamel Sauce

CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE MORNAYSAUCE CREAM SAUCE

CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE CELER I) 3 3 9

296 297

M IN T SAUCE (P A L O I5 E S A U C E ) CHORONSAUCE

v iii

339

CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME A R G E N T E U IL ) 3 3 9

295

Bolognese M ea t Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) 2 9 6

Bearnaise Sauce

33 6

297

M A S T E R REC IPE LIST

Vegetable Soup, Emilia Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana) 3 5 7 Minestrone

357

Cream of Broccoli Soup 33 9

295

295

Tomato Sauce 2 9 5

Tomato Coulis

33 5

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP W ITH RICE 3 3 9

295

354

Tuscan W hite Bean and Escarole Soup 3 5 5

335

Cream of Tomato Soup 294

Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut M ilk and Galangal 3 5 3

W ontonSoup 335

Chicken Rice Soup (Canja)

294

VEG ETABLEVELOUTE

353

Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung) 3 5 4

33 5

ONION SOUP GRATINEE

Tortilla Soup

294

334

334

WHITE ONION SOUP

294

SUPREME SAUCE

Spicy Beef Soup ( Yukkaejang) 351 Miso Soup

334

SHELLFISH BROTH

Demi-Glace 2 9 3

334

334

TURKEY OR GAME BROTH

293

JUS DE GIBIER LIE

334

HAM OR SMOKED PORK BROTH

JUS DE VO LAILLE LIE

348

Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho) 34 9

Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang) 3 5 0

334

VEAL BROTH

Ju sd e V eau L ie

347

Ham Bone and Collard Greens Soup 3 5 0

AM ISH CORN AND CHICKEN SOUP 3 3 4 BEEF BROTH:

34 7

Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo

333

Poultry and M ea t Stock (Brodo) 2 6 6 266

34 6 346

Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard) 3 4 8

265

265

Potage Garbure

SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND OREGANO BUTTER 300

chapter 14 soups

ROASTED VEGETABLE STOCK

344

PUREE OF YELLOW SPLIT PEA SOUP 345

300

BROWN LAM B STOCK

Fish Fum et 2 6 4

34 2

M an h attan -S tyle Clam Chowder 3 4 4

Red Pepper Coulis 2 9 9

TARRAGON BUTTER

264

341

Pacific Seafood Chowder

MaTtre d’Hotel B u tter 3 0 0

264

BROWN CHICKEN STOCK

Corn Chowder

298

297

chapter 15 mise en place for meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish Garam Masala

368

Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer Soup 3 4 0

Chinese Five-Spice Powder 3 6 8

New England-Style Clam Chowder 3 4 0

Chili Powder

Conch Chowder

341

Barbecue Spice M ix 368

Curry Powder

369

Q uatre Epices

36 9

368

Fines Herbes

370

Green Curry Paste

37 0

Yellow Curry Paste

371

Barbecue M arinade Fish M arinade

372

Brazilian Mixed Grill

372

SALT HERBS

457

Chicken Legs with Duxelles S tu ffin g 4 8 2

Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce 4 5 8

373

Latin Citrus M arinade (Mojo) 3 7 3

BLACK BEAN SAUCE

Jerked Game Hens

Red W ine M arinade fo r Grilled M eats 3 7 4

MU SH R OOM FORCEMEAT

440

Veal Shoulder Poele

442

465

467

469

MARS ALA SAUCE

MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE (NORTH CAROLINA EASTERN LOW COU NTRY SAUCE) 469

447

Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops 4 4 8

Pork Butt with Coleslaw 448

CARAMELIZED APPLES

Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry V inegar Sauce 4 5 0 SHERRY VINEGAR SAUCE

450

BARBECUE SAUCE

FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY

475

Roast Rack of Lamb Persille 454

PERSILLADE

WARM CABBAGE SALAD

SAUCE ROBERT

50 5

506

508

SAUCE CHARCUTIERE

508

Red Snapper with G rapefruit Salsa 5 0 9

Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere 47 6

453

Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties

W INTER FR U IT SA UCE

Pork C utlet with Sauce Robert 5 0 8

475

Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu) 4 7 6

Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney 4 5 3

Sauteed Medallions of Pork with W in ter Fruit Sauce 50 5

NOISETTES OF PORK WITH RED ONION CONFIT 50 6

CHEF CLARK'S SOUTHWEST -STYLE SAUCE 472-3

St. Louis-Style Ribs

Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions 451

504

Pork Medallions with Warm Cabbage Salad 50 6

470

Smoked Brisket with Sw eet Pickles 4 7 2

448

PORK SCALOPPINE WITH TOMATO SAUCE 5 0 3

N oisettes of Pork w ith Green Peppercorns and Pineapple 5 0 4

NORTH CAROLINA WESTERN BARBECUE SAUCE 4 6 9

BROILED LA M B KEBABS WITH PIMIENTO BUTTER 4 4 7

501

Veal Scaloppine Marsala 5 0 3

467

NORTH CAROLINA PIEDMONT SAUCE 4 6 9

Pork and Veal Skewers (R a znjic i) 4 4 7

501

Emince of Sw iss-Style Veal 5 0 3

GUAVA BARBECUE SAUCE

Carolina Barbecue

446

Chicken Provengal

500

BEEFTOURNEDOSPROVENCAL

Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs 446

Sauteed Chicken with Fines HerbesSauce 5 0 0 FINES HERBES SAUCE

Cantonese Roast Pork ( C h a r S iu ) 4 6 6

Barbecued Steak w ith Herb Crust 4 4 5

APPLE CIDER SAUCE

464

464

Pork Roast with Jus Lie

Beef Teriyaki 4 4 5

DILL SAUCE

486

chapter 18 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying

463

Baked S tu ffed Pork Chops 4 6 5

Grilled Rib Eye Steak

C H ES TNU TSTU FF IN G

Salmon F illet with Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust 4 8 6

462

MADEIRA SAUCE 4 6 3

Standing Rib Roast au Jus

44 1

Skewered Beef and Scallions

Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut S tu ffin g 4 8 5

B eef W ellington 4 6 3

Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce 441 Seitan Satay

462

M AR SALA SAUCE

MARCHAND D E V IN SAUCE

461

M IN T AND YOGURT CHU TNEY

GRILLED OR BROILED SIRLOIN STEAK WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER 4 4 0 MUSH R OOM SAUCE

459

Broiled Bluefish a I'Anglaise with MaTtre d'Hotel B u tter 461 Fish Kebabs

484

Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade 4 8 4 -5

459

Broiled S tu ffed Lobster

Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce 4 4 0

483

Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcem eat 4 8 3

459

P INEAPPLE-JICAMA SALSA

chapter 17 grilling, broiling, and roasting

Pan-Smoked Chicken

458

F illet of Mahi Mahi with Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa

374

481

Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy 48 2

HOT PEPPER S A U C E (M O LH O API MENTADO) 457

372

Teriyaki M arinade

Roast Leg of Lamb with M int Sauce 481

Grilled Paillards of Chicken with Tarragon B u tter 4 5 5

Red W ine Game M arinade 3 7 2 Lamb M arinade

Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (G ig o t a la Breto nne ) 480

Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel 4 5 5

Seasoning M ix fo r Spit-R oasted M eats and Poultry 371 Asian-Style M arinade

Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous (M e ch o u i) 478

Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano B u tter 4 5 4

369

Red Curry Paste

477

Trout Amandine

50 9

A ll

M A S T E R RECIPE LIST

Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce 511 YEL LOW PEPPER SAUCE

Vatapa

512

Shrimp Ticin-Xic Bibimbap

513

513

514

B utterm ilk Fried Chicken

516

516

Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets

518

518

PAN-FRIED BREADED PORK CUTLET 5 1 8

Veal Cordon Bleu

518

55 5

520

REM OU LA D ESA U C E

520

561

GREMOLATA

5 6 2 -3

Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken 5 2 4 SWEET GARLIC SAUCE

524

563

Fried Fish Cakes

528

Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Biscuits 5 6 4

Chiles Reltenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno 5 2 8 -9 Tinga Poblano

530

566

Bass and Scallops en Papillote 5 5 3

606

Lamb Khorma

607

Irish Stew 569

chapter 20 braising and stewing

608

Couscous with Lamb and Chicken Stew 6 0 9 Chicken Tagine

611

PRESERVED LEMONS

Chicken Fricassee

Korean Braised Short Ribs (KalbiJjim) 5 8 2

61 2

Chicken and Prawn Ragout (M a r i Muntanya) 6 1 2 -3

584

ROULADEN STUFFING

chapter 22 cooking vegetables Boiled Carrots

Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce 5 8 4 -5 585

Yankee Pot Roast 5 8 6

Mole Negro

611

61 2

581

DEEP-FRIED ONIONS 581

587 5 8 8 -9

Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers 5 5 3

Beef Stew

Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse 5 5 5

Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in M ea t Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni) 5 9 0

M A S T E R RECIPE LIST

Lamb Navarin

VEAL FRICASSEE

Sauerbraten

602 60 4

Curried Goat w ith Green Papaya Salad 6 0 8

Seafood Poached in a Saffron Broth with Fennel 5 7 0

Braised Short Ribs

chapter 19 steam ing and subm ersion cooking

Braised Lamb Shanks

HERBED FORCEMEAT STUFFING 6 0 5

Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch) 5 7 0

Braised Oxtails

601

601

Portuguese S tu ffed Leg of Lamb 6 0 5

Grandmother's Bean Curd (M o Po Dofu) 5 2 7 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long) 527

599

Polish S tu ffed Cabbage

GARLIC-FLAVORED CROUTONS

Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo)

TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE 5 2 3

598

599

BEEF GOULASH

Corned Beef w ith W inter Vegetables 5 6 6

Shrimp Tempura 5 2 3

597

Osso Buco Milanese

562

Udon Noodle Pot

522

59 6

Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Sausage 5 9 8 Pork Goulash

Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes 561

Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon 5 2 2 522

Veal Blanquette

MUSHROO M SAUSAGE

New England Shore Dinner

Poule a u Pot (Chicken with Vegetables) 5 6 5

Beer B a tter

Pork in a Green Curry Sauce

F illet of Snapper en Papillote 5 5 8 -9

Cioppino

596

Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas) 597

557

Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes 521

Flounder a I’Orly

Pork Vindaloo

Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce 5 6 4

519

Fisherman’s P la tte r

ROYALGLACAGE

59 5

New Mexican Green Chile Stew 59 5

Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 8

Pescado Veracruzana

Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese) 519 Milanese Sauce

SALMON MOUSSELINE

593

594

D u ckC o nfit

555

Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique 5 5 7

Breast of Chicken with Duxelles Stu ffin g and Supreme Sauce 5 1 5

WIENER SCHNITZEL

Cassoulet

Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 6

S tir-F ried Squid with Thai Basil 5 1 5

COUNTRY GRAVY

SOLE MOUSSELINE

593

HOM EMA DE SAUERKRAUT

TROUT AND SAFFRON MOUSSEL INE 5 5 5

51 1

Sauteed Trout a la M euniere

Choucroute

POACHED SOLE WITH SAFFRON MOUSSE 555

58 9

681

Boiled Edamame 681 Steam ed Broccoli

681

BROCCOLI AND TOASTED GARLIC 681

Glazed Beets Creamed Corn

683 683

Pan-Steam ed Carrots 6 8 4 PAN-STEAMED HARICOTS VERTS 6 8 4 PECAN CARROTS

684

Gingered Snow Peas and Yellow Squash 6 8 4

Braised Sauerkraut French-Style Peas

Green Beans with Walnuts Glazed Carrots

712

Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa 7 7 3

712

Middle Eastern Chickpeas

685

Rom an-Style Lima Beans

685

chapter 23 cooking potatoes

Grilled Vegetables Proven

Id t r

Cephalopods COMMON COOKING METHODS AND

NAME(S)

DESCRIPTION

SQ U ID /C ALAM AR I

In v e rte b ra te ; fo u n d along th e East and W est Coasts. Changes c o lo r o f skin fo r

CULINARY USES

p ro te c tio n ; ink used to con fuse p re d a to r. A verages 7 inches in length. A vaila ble fre s h , cleaned, in rings o r tub es, and fro ze n . S lig h tly firm te x tu re when cooked p ro p e rly;

Baking, bo iling , b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , pan fry in g , s tir-fry in g , sauteing. Ink used to co lo r pasta and rice

o id o

CL GO

m ild, sw e e t fla v o r OCTOPUS

Found in shallow and deep w a te rs o f C a lifo rn ia and A laska; also A tla n tic and A rc tic regions fro m th e English Channel to Berm uda. Ranges in size fro m a fe w ounces (baby) to over 1 0 0 pounds. S o ft bodied; bloo d is blue; eyes on b o th sides o f head; 8 arm s, w ith 2 row s o f su ctio n cups on each. M ild fla vo r, te n d e r te x tu re when cooked

B oiling. W hen sm all, deep fry in g , g rillin g , sau tein g

p ro p e rly CUTTLEFISH

Found in shallow co a sta l w a te rs fro m Thailand, China, India, Spain, and P ortu gal. E ig ht arm s, 2 long, n a rrow te n ta c le s . L ig h t

B oiling, steam ing, s tir-fry in g . In sushi, sashim i

brow n w ith ze b ra -like s trip e s . S w eet, v e ry te n d e r when cooked p ro p e rly ; b rig h t w h ite fle s h

c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

1 23

crustacean shellfish

124

TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

DESCRIPTION

COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES

M A IN E /N O R T H E R N / NORTH AM ERICAN LOBSTER

Found o f f A tla n tic co a st o f n o rth e rn U n ite d S ta te s, Canada, Europe (though sm aller).

Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching, steam ing, s tir -fry in g

SPIN Y/R O C K LOBSTER

Found o f f F lorida, so u th e rn C a lifo rn ia , New M exico, A u stra lia , New Zealand, South A fric a . A ll 10 legs are same size; has no claws; fle s h is fo u n d in ta il. F irm fle sh , less

Can ta ke 8 years to reach m a rk e t size o f 1 -2 pounds. Flesh is b rig h t w h ite w ith red dish s tre a ks; firm , sw e et, d e lic a te Baking, g rillin g , poaching, steam ing, s tir -fry in g

shellfish

NAME(S)

crustacean

Crustacean Shellfish

sw e e t than A m erican lo b s te r CRAYFISH/CRAW FISH

Found in fre s h w a te r swam ps, creeks, bayous; fa rm raised in Louisiana and F lorida; im p o rte d fro m S o u th e a st Asia. A vaila ble

B oiling, stea m ing

shucked, cooked and picked m eats. Deep red shells, b rig h t red when cooked. S w eet, w h ite , firm fle sh LA N G O U S TIN E/D U BLIN

Found in European, A tla n tic , and

BAY PRAW N/SCAM PI

M e d ite rra n e a n w a te rs ; re la te d to spiny lo b ste r. S lig h tly sw e e t and fla v o rfu l fle s h

W ARM WATER SHRIMP

Found in tro p ic a l w a te rs; m a jo rity o f U.S. catch ha rve ste d in South A tla n tic and G ulf o f M exico. Sold by size co u n t pe r pound. C la ssifie d by shell co lo r: p ink (sw eet, te n d e r); brow n (briny, firm ); w h ite (sw eet,

Poaching, bo iling , steam ing, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g

Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing , stew ing , poaching

m ild). C o lor va rie s w id e ly based on h a b ita t COLD WATER SHRIMP

Found in th e N o rth A tla n tic and N o rth

Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,

P acific. Sold by size co u n t per pound. C o nsid era bly sm a lle r and s o fte r tha n w arm

en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing , ste w in g

w a te r v a rie tie s FRESHWATER SHRIM P

Farm raised in H aw aii and C a lifo rn ia . Sold by size cou nt per pound. Up to 12 inches long. Very s o ft, m ild fle s h

TIGER SHRIM P

Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing

Found in th e South P acific, S o u th e a st

Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,

A fric a , India; fa rm raised in Asia. Sold by size co u n t pe r pound. G rayish -bla ck s trip e s on g ra yish -b lu e shells; shell s trip e s tu rn b rig h t red when cooked. W h ite fle s h w ith orange if cooked peeled; red if cooked in the shell. M ild, briny, s lig h tly bland fla v o r

g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, ste a m in g

c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

125

Crustacean Shellfish, continued COMMON COOKING METHODS

NAME(S)

DESCRIPTION

ROCK S H R IM P /H A R D SHELLED SHRIMP

Found fro m so u th e a s te rn U n ite d S ta te s to th e G u lf o f M exico. Sold peeled and by cou nt per pound. F lavo r and te x tu re m ore like c ra w fish than o th e r shrim p

Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , en p a p illo te , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, ste w in g

BLUE CRAB

Found fro m Chesapeake Bay to th e G u lf Coast. M ales have blue claws, fe m a le s have re d d ish -b lu e ; b o th have long spine on each

Baking, broiling, deep frying , grillin g , poaching, sauteing,

AND CULINARY USES

steam ing, stew ing

side o f da rk green shell. Should be alive ju s t b e fo re cooking. S w eet, ten der, m o ist, b u tte ry fle s h SO FT-SH ELLC R AB

Blue crab th a t sheds its shell and is h a rve ste d when s till s o ft; in season fro m A p ril to m id -S e p te m b e r, peak in June and ea rly July. A fte r cleaning, th e e n tire crab may be eaten

Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , pan fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing. In sushi

JONAH CRAB

Found fro m Prince Edw ard Island to Maine. Oval in shape. Has 2 stro n g , b la c k -tip p e d

Baking, bro iling , deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,

claws. S w eet, briny, s lig h tly s trin g y , firm fle s h

steam ing, stew ing

Found in n o rth e rn P acific, m o st abundant

Baking, broiling, deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, stew ing

K IN G /A LA S K A KING CRAB

DUNGENESSCRAB

in A laska and Russia. Can reach 10 fe e t and w eigh 1 0 -1 5 pounds. V a rie tie s include red, b ro w n /g o ld e n , blue Found along th e P a cific co a st fro m Alaska to M exico. Averages l V i - 3 pounds. R e dd ish-b row n shell, w h itish -o ra n g e underside. Flesh is m ild and sw e e t

SNO W CRAB

Found in A laska and e a ste rn Canada. A verages 5 pounds. Oval shaped; 4 pairs o f sle n d e r legs, 2 s h o rte r claw s in fro n t. W h ite fle s h tin g e d w ith pink; sw eet, s lig h tly strin g y , less fla v o rfu l than king crab

126

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

Baking, bro iling , deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, stew ing

Baking, bro iling , deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, stew ing

:

fruit, vegetable, and fresh herb identification Fruits, vegetables, and herbs have always been an important part of the human diet, but today consumers are more aware than ever of the important role these foods play in maintaining overall health and fitness This chapter provides professional chefs with the information they need to take full advantage of the abundance of fresh produce now a v a ila b ly including tips on availability, determination of q u a l i t y . ^ ^ ^ H proper storage, and culinary uses.

general guidelines SELECTION F ruits, vegetables, and herbs should be in good con di­ tio n , tho ugh w h a t c o n s titu te s a fa vo ra b le appearance varies fro m one ite m to another. In general, fr u its and veg etab le s should be fre e o f bruises, m old, brow n or s o ft spots, and p e st damage; th e y should have colors and te x tu re s a p p ro p ria te to th e ir typ e ; and any a tta ch e d leaves should not be w ilte d . F ru its should be plum p, not shrivele d. S p e cific in fo rm a tio n on p a rtic u la r typ e s o f produce is given in th e s e ctio n s below.

O rganic fo o d is produced w ith o u t th e use o f m ost con ven tion al p e sticid e s, s y n th e tic fe rtiliz e rs , sewage sludge, fe rtiliz e r, bioengineering, o r ionizing rad ia tion. In o rd e r f o r a p ro d u c t to be labeled "organic," a g o vern­ m en t-a p p ro ve d c e r tifie r m ust in sp e ct w here th e fo o d is grow n and processed to ensure th a t USDA organic s ta n ­ dards are adhered to. H yd rop onic crops are grow n in n u trie n t-e n ric h e d w a te r ra th e r tha n soil. H ydroponic gro w in g ta ke s place in do ors under re g u la te d te m p e ra tu re and light, so any g ro w in g season may be d u plicated . Today, hyd rop oni-

PRODUCTION METHODS F oodservice o p e ra tio n s w ie ld purchasing pow er th a t can

cally grow n le ttu ce s, spinach, herbs, and to m a to e s are all re a d ily available. A ltho ug h th e y have th e advantage o f being easy to clean, the se p ro d u cts may have a less

be used to s u p p o rt or discourage s p e c ific a g ric u ltu ra l

pronounced fla v o r than fr u its and veg etab le s grow n in

p ra ctices. You may w ish to con sid er several a g ricu ltu ra l

th e soil.

p ro d u c tio n and tre a tm e n t m etho ds when purchasing in gre die nts.

AVAILABILITY AND SEASONALITY

A g ric u ltu ra l b io te ch n o lo g y includes a m u ltitu d e o f s c ie n tific tech niq ue s th a t are used to crea te , im prove, o r m o d ify plants. For hundreds o f years, s c ie n tis ts have im proved pla n ts f o r human b e n e fit using con ven tion al tech niq ue s such as se le ctive breeding. However, con­ v e n tio n a l bre e d in g m ethods can be tim e consum ing and inaccurate. Through g e n e tic engineering, s c ie n tis ts are now able to is o la te genes fo r a d e sira ble t r a it and tra n s ­ fe r the m to o th e r organism s, re s u ltin g in g e n e tic a lly m o d ifie d organism s (GMOs) th a t, fo r exam ple, have higher re sista n ce to disease. Irra d ia tio n is a fo o d s a fe ty te ch n o lo g y used to k ill pa thog en ic organism s and exte nd s h e lf life . S im ila r to the p a s te u riz a tio n o f m ilk and pressure p ro cessing o f canned goods, tre a tin g fo o d s w ith io nizing ra d ia tio n (also known as co ld p a s te u riz a tio n ) can k ill b a cte ria th a t m ig h t o th e rw ise cause fo o d -b o rn e illness. S ustainable a g ric u ltu re p e rta in s to a g ric u ltu ra l p ro ­ d u ction and d is trib u tio n system s th a t fo cu s on p ro v id ­

128

P rio r to th e increase in a g ric u ltu ra l p ro d u c tio n and d is­ trib u tio n tech nolog y, chefs were lim ite d to lo cally grown seasonal f r u its and vegetables. Though fo o d e s ta b lis h ­ m ents are no longer bound to buy local produce, it is s till a fa vo ra b le p ra ctice if and when possible. It is im p o rta n t to s u p p o rt th e local g row ers. M oreover, so-called bou­ tiq u e fa rm e rs m ay have sp e c ia lty produce (such as w ild le ttu ce s, golden beets, and ye llo w to m a to e s) th a t is not available th ro u g h large com m e rcial purveyors. A n o th e r advantage to buying lo ca lly is th a t the fla v o r and co n d i­ tio n o f th e fo o d s are o fte n sup erior; lo cally grow n sw eet corn, a p rico ts, peaches, and s tra w b e rrie s th a t have not been shipped are ju s t a fe w exam ples. Conversely, th e re are ite m s th a t ship p a rtic u la rly w ell. Exam ples include asparagus, head le ttu ce s, bro ccoli, apples, and citru s fru its .

STORAGE

ing a p ro fita b le fa rm incom e w h ile p ro m o tin g e n viro n ­

Once th e produce has been received, fo llo w in g certain

m en ta l stew a rdsh ip. Key p ra ctice s include renew ing and

storag e gu id eline s can ensure th a t its q u a lity rem ains

p ro te c tin g soil f e r t ilit y and th e n a tural resource base;

high. M o s t fo o d s e rv ic e e sta b lish m e n ts s to re produce

im p ro vin g the use o f o n -fa rm resources; and m in im izing

fo r no m ore than th re e o r fo u r days, although length o f

th e use o f nonrenew able resources. S ustainable fa rm in g

storag e depends on the business’s volum e, th e available

s triv e s to p ro m o te o p p o rtu n itie s in fa m ily fa rm in g and

storag e fa c ilitie s , and d e liv e ry frequ en cy. It is ideal to

fa rm com m u nitie s. S ustainable pra ctice s include im p le ­

le t th e pu rveyo r handle th e produce as long as possible,

m e n tin g s ystem s to stem soil erosion and m etho ds such

to help ensure th a t you use the fre s h e s t p ro d u c t pos­

as in te g ra te d p e st m anagem ent and fie ld te rra cin g .

sib le and n o t overload you r valuable storag e space.

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

W ith a fe w exce ptio ns (bananas, to m a to e s, p o ­

C e rta in fru its , in clu d in g apples, bananas, and m el­

ta to e s , d ry onions), rip e fr u its and veg etab le s should

ons, e m it high am ounts o f e th ylen e gas as th e y s it in

be re frig e ra te d . Unless o th e rw is e s p e cifie d , produce

storage. E thylene gas can acce le rate rip en ing in unripe

should be k e p t a t a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 0 ° to 4 5 °F /4 ° to

fru its , b u t can also p ro m o te spoilage in fr u its and vege­

7°C, w ith a re la tiv e h u m id ity o f 8 0 to 90 pe rcen t. The

ta b le s th a t are alrea dy ripe. For th is reason, unless they

ideal s itu a tio n is to have a sep ara te w a lk-in o r reach-in

are being used d e lib e ra te ly as a rip en ing agent, high

re frig e ra to r fo r fr u its and vegetables.

e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its should be sto re d separately.

M o s t fr u its and ve g e ta b le s should be k e p t dry, be ­ cause excess m o is tu re can p ro m o te spoilage. T h ere fore, m o st produce should n o t be peeled, washed, or trim m e d

When sep ara te sto ra g e space is unavailable, place e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its in sealed containers. Some fr u its and veg etab le s, including onions, garlic,

u n til ju s t b e fo re use. The o u te r leaves o f le ttu ce , fo r

lemons, and m elons, give o f f odors th a t can perm eate

exam ple, should be le ft in ta c t; c a rro ts should rem ain

o th e r fo o d s. D airy p ro d u c ts are p a rtic u la rly suscep­

unpeeled. The exce ptio ns to th is rule are th e le a fy to p s

tib le to o d o r a b s o rp tio n and should alw ays be sto re d

on ro o t v eg etab le s such as beets, tu rn ip s , ca rro ts , and

away fro m fr u its and veg etab le s. C ertain fru its , such as

radishes. They should be rem oved and e ith e r discarded

apples and che rries, also absorb odors. They to o should

or used im m e d ia te ly, because even a fte r harvesting,

be w ell w ra pp ed or sto re d separately.

th e leaves absorb n u trie n ts fro m th e ro o t and increase m o istu re loss.

M any f r u its and veg etab le s begin to d e te rio ra te a f­ te r th re e o r fo u r days. A lth o u g h c itru s fru its , m ost ro o t

F ru its and ve g e ta b le s th a t need fu rth e r ripening,

veg etab le s, and hard squashes have a longer storage

n o ta b ly peaches and avocados, should be s to re d at

life , m o st re s ta u ra n ts do n o t hold even the se ite m s fo r

room te m p e ra tu re , 65 ° to 7 0 °F /1 8 ° to 21°C. Once the

m ore than tw o to th re e weeks.

produce is ripe, it should be re frig e ra te d so th a t it does not becom e overripe.

fruits F ruits are the ovaries th a t surround or contain the seeds

and g rille d pork chops. F ru it is w o nd erful served alone as

o f plants. C ustom arily used in sw eet dishes, fru its are

a refresh in g b re a kfa st or the fina le to a meal. Dried fru its

also excellent w ith savory item s, such as p o ta to latkes

fin d th e ir way in to com potes, s tu ffin g s, and sauces.

vegetables Vegetables are th e ro o ts, tu b e rs, stem s, leaves, le a f

such as to m a to e s . T heir cu lin a ry a p p lica tio n is th e g u id ­

stalks, seeds, seedpods, and flo w e r heads o f pla n ts th a t

ing p rin c ip le f o r placin g the m in th is se ctio n ra th e r than

may be s a fe ly eaten. V egetables com m only include a

th e previous one.

num ber o f fo o d s th a t are b o ta n ic a lly c la s s ifie d as fru its ,

herbs Herbs are th e leaves o f a ro m a tic plants, used p rim a rily

uncooked p re p a ra tio n s, fre s h herbs should be added

to add fla v o r to fo o d s. A rom a is a good in d ic a to r o f q u a l­

w e ll in advance o f serving.

ity in b o th fre s h and d rie d herbs. They should have even

In general, herbs should be sto re d lo ose ly w rapped

color, h e a lth y -lo o k in g leaves and stem s, and no w iltin g ,

in dam p p a p e rto w e ls and re frig e ra te d . If desired, place

brow n spo ts, sunburn, or p e s t damage.

th e w ra pp ed herbs in p la s tic bags to help re ta in m ois­

Fresh herbs should be m inced or cu t in c h iffo n a d e as close to service tim e as possible. They are usually

tu re and reduce w iltin g and d is c o lo ra tio n o f leaves. It is a good idea to label th e herbs, so th e y are easy to locate.

added to a dish to w a rd th e end o f the coo kin g tim e . For

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

apples

Apples are perhaps America’s favorite fruit.

According to surveys from the International Apple Insti­

Apples can be held in climate-controlled cold storage for many months without significant loss of quality.

tute, apples account for nearly 14 percent of all tree fruits

Dried apples, prepared applesauce, apple juice (bottled

sold in this country. Apples range in color from yellow to

or frozen concentrate), cider, spiced or plain pie fill­

green to red, and colors in between. Different varieties

ings, and a host of other prepared items made from

of apples have particular characteristics. Some are best

apples can also be purchased. The flesh of many apples will begin to turn brown

eaten out of hand, others are considered best for pies and baking, and still others are selected for their ability

once they are cut open and come in contact with air.

to cook down into a rich, smooth puree for applesauce.

Dousing them in acidulated water (water with a little

For cider, a blend of apples is usually chosen, to give the

lemon juice) will help prevent browning but may not be

finished drink a full, well-balanced flavor.

desirable if a pure apple taste is important. The follow­

Select firm apples that have a smooth skin with no

ing table covers a selection of apple varieties.

bruising, though rough brown spots are acceptable.

STAYM AN W INESAP

CAM EO

130

G ALA

MCINTOSH

NORTHERN S P Y

GOLDEN DELICIOUS

CO RTLAN D

G R A N N Y SMITH

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

H O N EYCRISP

M AC0UN

CO X ORANGE PIPPIN

P

Apples VARIETY*

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

CRABAPPLE

Sm all. Red. Y ellow or w h ite ve ry hard fle sh . T art

Cooked in sauces, je llie s , jam s, relishe s

GOLDEN DELICIOUS

Y e llo w ish -gree n skin w ith fre c k lin g . Crisp, ju icy. S w eet. S tays w h ite a fte r

Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se

S " in

c u ttin g lo n g e r tha n o th e r v a rie tie s GRANNY SMITH

MCINTOSH

Green skin. E x tre m e ly crisp, fin e ly te x tu re d w h ite fle sh . Tart. S tays w h ite a fte r c u ttin g lo ng er tha n o th e r v a rie tie s

savory p re p a ra tio n s. In pies

P rim a rily red, s tre a k e d w ith ye llo w or

Eaten o u t o f hand. In sauces, cider.

Eaten o u t o f hand. In sw e et and

green. Flesh is v e ry w h ite . S e m i-ta rt NORTHERN SPY

Red skin stre a ke d w ith yellow . Crisp,

E xce lle n t in pies

firm , ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt RED DELICIOUS

B rig h t red spe ckle d w ith yellow . Flesh is y e llo w -w h ite . Firm . S w e et ta s te

Eaten o u t o f hand

ROME BEAUTY

B rig h t red skin spe ckle d w ith yellow . Flesh is firm . M ild, ta rt-s w e e t

G re a t f o r ba kin g w hole

D u sty red w ith w h ite spo ts. Flesh is firm

A ll-p u rp o s e . In pies, sauces. Baking.

STAYMAN W INESAP

and crisp. Tart, a ro m a tic CORTLAND

S m ooth, shiny red skin. C risp te x tu re . S w e e t-ta rt. S tays w h ite a fte r c u ttin g lo ng er than o th e r v a rie tie s

A ll-p u rp o s e

HONEYCRISP

Yellow w ith good am o un t o f red blush. Very crisp. Very sw e e t

Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se

Peachy-red, spe ckle d w ith yellow . Crisp

Eaten o u t o f hand

GALA

and ju icy. S w e et and z e sty CAMEO

D ull red, sp lo tch y, w ith som e ye llo w brow n colorin g. S w e e t-ta rt fla v o r and

A ll-p u rp o s e

firm te x tu re MACOUN

Ranges fro m m aroon to green w ith dull red blush, som e w h ite spo ts. C risp and ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt

Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o s e

COX ORANGE PIPPIN

G olden b ro w n ish-o rang e w ith green tin g e . C risp and ju icy. S lig h tly ta r t

A ll-p u rp o s e

There are many varieties of apples available only within small regions. These apples share eating and cooking characteristics with those described here. If you have any questions, ask your purveyor or other reputable source for the best use for a particular variety.

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

131

berries

Berries tend to be highly perishable (with

the exception of cranberries) and are susceptible to

When fresh berries are out of season, IQF (individu­ ally quick frozen) berries are often a perfectly fine sub­

bruising, molding, and overripening in fairly short

stitute. Dried berries are a delicious addition to winter

order. Inspect all berries and their packaging carefully

fruit compotes, stuffings, or baked goods. The following

before you accept them. Juice-stained cartons or juice

table covers a selection of berry varieties.

leaking through the carton is a clear indication that the fruit has been mishandled or is old. Once berries begin to turn moldy, the entire batch goes bad quickly.

B LU EB ER RIES

STRAW BERR IES

RA S PB ER R IE S

CR AN BE R R IE S

B LA C K B ER R IES

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

GO O SEBERRIES (WITH AND WITHOUT H USK)

CU RR ANTS

VARIETY BLACKBERRY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

Large. P u rp lish -b la ck. Juicy. C u ltiv a te d

Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, ja m s

and w ild BLUEBERRY

Sm all to m edium . B lu ish -p u rp le w ith d u s ty s ilv e r-b lu e "bloom ." S m ooth, round. Juicy fle sh . S w e et

Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, jam s. D ried. To fla v o r vinegars

CRANBERRY

Sm all. Shiny red, som e w ith w h ite blush. Hard, dry. Sour

G enerally cooked. In relishes, sauces, je llie s , ju ices; in breads. Dried

GOOSEBERRY

Sm all to m edium . Yellow to green a lm o s t tra n s p a re n t skin. Round, sm ooth. Juicy. V ery t a r t

G enerally cooked; in je llie s , pies, o th e r baked goods

RASPBERRY

C lu ste rs o f tin y f r u its (drupes), each

Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods,

c o n ta in in g a seed; may have "h a irs ” on surface. Red, black, or golden. Juicy. S w eet. D e w b e rry is a ty p e o f ra sp b e rry

syrups, purees, sauces, cordials, syrups. Jams. To fla v o r vinegars

Range o f sizes. Red. Shiny, h e a rtshaped; seeds on th e e x te rio r. S w e et

Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith sh o rtca ke s. In baked goods, purees,

STRAWBERRY

berries

Berries

jam s, je llie s , ice cream CURRANT

Tiny, round fr u it. Range in co lo r fro m w h ite to red to black; s m o o th skin. S w e et

W h ite and red eaten o u t o f hand; black c u rra n ts used to make jam s, je llie s , syrups, and liq u o rs such as cassis

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

133

citrus fruits

Citrus fruits are characterized by

with brightly colored skins, as they are often dyed.

extremely juicy, segmented flesh, and skins that contain

When selecting grapefruits, lemons, and limes, on the

aromatic oils. Grapefruits, lemons, limes, and oranges

other hand, look for brightly colored fruits with a finely

are the most common citrus fruits. They range dramati­

textured skin. Citrus can be stored at room temperature

cally in size, color, and flavor.

for a short time, but should be refrigerated if being held for an extended period. Citrus juice is available canned,

Select citrus that is firm and heavy in relation to its size, with no soft spots. Green hues or rough brown

bottled, frozen, and as frozen concentrate. The table

spots generally do not affect the flavor or texture of the

that follows covers a selection of citrus varieties.

fruit. For oranges, it is not necessary to select fruits

PINK G R APEFRU IT

M E Y E R LEM O N

LEMON

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

PERSIAN LIME

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

NAVEL ORANGE

Orange skin, re la tiv e ly sm ooth. Seedless. Sw eet

Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested. Peel may be candied

BLOOD ORANGE

Thin orange skin w ith blush o f red. P ockets o f da rk red fle sh . A ro m a tic and sw e e t and ta r t

Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced. In sauces; as fla v o rin g agent

M AND ARIN ORANGE

Several v a rie tie s , ranging in size fro m ve ry sm all to m edium . S eedless o r w ith seeds. T angerines and cle m e n tin e s are

Eaten o u t o f hand

citrus fruits

Citrus Fruits

M an da rin v a rie tie s TANGERINE

Orange; lig h tly pe bb led skin. M any seeds. Juicy. S w e et

E aten o u t o f hand. Juiced

TANGELO

Orange; s lig h tly pe bb led skin. S lig h tly ta p e re d at to p . Juicy. Sw eet

Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced

SEVILLE ORANGE

T hick, rough skin. M any seeds. Tart, b itte r, a s trin g e n t

In m arm alade, sauce Bigarade, lique urs. Peel may be candied

Y ello w -gre en to deep ye llo w skin. Seeds. E x tre m e ly t a r t

Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. Peel may be candied

MEYER LEMON

Round. S m oo th skin. S w eeter, less acidic ju ic e than re g u la r lem ons

Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. In baked goods. Peel may be candied

PERSIAN LIME

D ark green, sm o o th skin. Seedless. T art

Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. Peel may be candied

KEY LIME

Sm all; round. Y ello w ish -gree n. T art

Juiced. As fla v o rin g agent. M o s t fa m o u s use is Key lim e pie

W H ITE /R E D /P IN K GRAPEFRUIT

Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith green blush. Flesh ranges fro m pale ye llo w

Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested. As fla v o rin g agent. Peel m ay be candied

LEMON

to deep red. S w e e t-ta rt. Seedless v a rie tie s ava ila ble U N IQ /U G LI FRUIT

H yb rid citru s . Y ellow -green, th ic k , loose,

Eaten o u t o f hand

w rin k le d skin. Seedless. P in k-ye llo w fle s h w ith ta n g y and sw e e t fla v o r

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

135

grapes

Technically, grapes are berries, but because

Store grapes, unwashed, in the refrigerator. Grapes

they include so many varieties and have so many differ­

should be thoroughly washed and blotted dry just prior

ent uses, they are usually grouped separately. There are

to being eaten. Grapes are best served at room tempera­

varieties of grapes, both with seeds and seedless, avail­

ture. The following table covers a selection of grape

able for both eating and wine making.

varieties. Grapes from California will come into season in late

Grapes vary greatly in color from pale green to deep purple. Choose grapes that are plump and juicy, with

May for some red grapes, and June or July for Thomp­

smooth skins that have a pale gray film (known as bloom).

son, and last into early December. Grapes in the eastern

Grapes should be firmly attached to their green stems.

United States have a shorter season, becoming available

There are varieties of grapes with skin that easily slips off

in August and then gone by November. Imported grapes

the fruit (Concord), and other varieties in which the skin

are generally available year-round; almost all imported

remains firmly intact (Thompson seedless). Grapes are

grapes come from Mexico and Chile.

also dried to make raisins and currants.

C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K CORINTH

136

THOM PSON S EE D LES S

RED EM PER O R

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

B LA C K

CONCORD

GTQ P

Grapes

^

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

THOMPSON SEEDLESS

M edium size. Green, th in skin. Seedless. Sw eet, m ild fla v o r

Table grape. A lso d rie d as raisins

CONCORD

B lue-black, th ic k skin slips ea sily fro m fle sh . S w e et fla v o r

In ju ice s, jam s, je llie s , syrups, and pre serve s

BLACK

Large. Deep p u rple skin. U sually w ith seeds. V ery sw e et fla v o r

Table grape

RED EMPEROR

L ig h t to deep red, w ith green stre a kin g ; th in , tig h tly a d he ring skin. S w e e t fla v o r. U sually w ith seeds

Table grape

C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K

V i-in c h dia m e te r. Red to lig h t purple. Seedless. Juicy and sw e e t

Table grape

RED FLAM E

H yb rid o f th e Thom pson grape. Seedless. Round in shape. B rig h t, m e d iu m -re d color. Firm crunch and sw e e t fla v o r

Table grape, fre s h f r u it ta r ts

RUBY RED

Seedless. E lo ng ated shape. Juicy and sw e et

Table grape

RED GLOBE

Seeded. Large and round. Low in acid. F a irly sw e e t

Table grape

TOKAY

Seeded. Elongated. Bland fla v o r

Table grape

EMPEROR

Seeded. Sm all and round. Low sugar, bland, c h e rry -lik e fla v o r

Table grape

Sm all. Pale red to go ld en in color. Very

Table grape

CORINTH

RELIANCE

;

fla v o rfu l BLACK BEAUTY

Seedless. Sm all and oblong. Rich, da rk color. B rig ht, sw eet, spicy fla v o r

Table grape

VENUS

Seedless. Large and round. Rich, da rk color. S w e et fla v o r; a s trin g e n t skin

Table grape

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

137

melons

These succulent, fragrant fruits are

that the melon ripened on the vine. When ripe, all

members of the gourd family, as are squashes and cu­

muskmelons should become slightly soft at the stem

cumbers. They come in many varieties and range from

end and give off a sweet scent. Muskmelons must be

the size of an orange to that of a watermelon. The two

seeded before they are eaten.

major categories of melons are the muskmelon and the

The mildly flavored watermelon varieties should be symmetrical. Avoid those with flat sides, soft spots, or

watermelon. There are two kinds of muskmelons commonly available, the cantaloupe type and the honeydew type. Selecting melons and determining ripeness depends

damaged rinds. A ripe watermelon should have good ground color, without any white on the underside. Un­ ripe melons should be stored in a cool, dark place; ripe

greatly on the type. When selecting the cantaloupe-

or cut melon should be kept under refrigeration. The

type muskmelons, look for heavy fruits with a “full

following table covers a selection of melon varieties.

slip”—that is, a clean break from the stem—signifying

S E E D LE S S W ATERM ELON

HONEYDEW

CAN TALO U PE

138

CAVAILLO N

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

SANTA C LA U S

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

Beige n e ttin g o r veinin g over su rfa ce o f skin. Flesh is pale orange, sm oo th , ju icy.

Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith cured m ea ts and cheeses. In ch ille d f r u it soups

m elons

Melons

muskmelons CANTALOUPE

Very sw e et and fra g ra n t PERSIAN

Large; ca n ta lo u p e -ty p e m uskm elon. D ark green skin w ith ye llo w n e ttin g .

Eaten o u t o f hand

B rig h t sa lm o n -co lo re d fle sh . S lig h tly sw e et HONEYDEW

S om ew hat oval; ho ne yde w -typ e m uskm elon. Cream y green rind, sm oo th

Eaten o u t o f hand. In chille d f r u it soups; as garnish; de sserts

skin. P aste l green, ju ic y fle sh . V ery sw e et CASABA

H o ne ydew -typ e m uskm elon. L ig h t green to ye llo w -g re e n skin w ith th ic k grooves. C re am -colore d, ju ic y fle sh . M ild, clean, re fre s h in g fla v o r

Eaten o u t o f hand

CRENSHAW

Large oval-shaped ho ne yde w -typ e m uskm elon. Y ello w ish -gree n, sm ooth, y e t rid g e d skin. S a lm o n -co lo re d fle sh ;

Eaten o u t o f hand

fra g ra n t, s p ic y . E x tre m e ly sw e e t

watermelons WATERMELON

Ranges fro m a large o b lo ng shape to a sm all round shape. Skin is green w ith lig h te r s trip e s . Rind is w h ite ; w a te ry fle s h ranges fro m re d -p in k to ye llo w

Eaten o u t o f hand. Rind is p ickled

to w h ite . Shiny black, brow n, o r w h ite seeds; som e v a rie tie s are seedless. S w e et and re fre s h in g

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

139

pears

with no scuffing, bruises, pits, or shriveling in the skin or neck. Keep unripe pears at room temperature, but

red. Unlike many other fruits, pears ripen after they are

refrigerate them once they are ripe because the colder

picked. When pears are not fully ripened, they can have

temperatures will inhibit the ripening process. Like

granules in the flesh known as stone cells, which give

apples, cut pears turn brown once they are exposed

them an unpleasant sandy or gritty texture. This is a

to the air. Storing them in acidulated water will help

positive characteristic because ripe pears are extremely

prevent browning, but may alter the true flavor of the

fragile and otherwise would not ship well. When choos­

pear. The best uses for several varieties are given in the

ing pears, look for fruit that is mature and aromatic,

following table.

BO SC

140

This fruit comes in many varieties, ranging

from round to bell shaped, spicy to sweet, and yellow to

RED B A R T LET T / W ILLIAM

D’ANJO U

SECKEL

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

F O R ELLE

ASIAN

B A R T LET T / W ILLIAM

13 0 ) p

l-i VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

B A R T LE TT /W ILLIA M

Large; bell shaped. Ranges fro m green to red; sm o o th skin. Juicy. Sw eet

Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached. In preserves. To fla v o r co rd ia ls

BOSC

Large; long neck, sq u a t b o tto m . Dark, ru sse te d skin. S w e e t-ta rt

Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked, canned

Large; sq u a t all over. G re e n -ye llo w skin

Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked

DANJOU

w ith green speckles, can have a red blush. S w e et SECKEL

Sm all. G olden skin w ith red blush. E x tre m e ly firm and crisp fle sh . S w e et

Poached, baked, canned

and spicy FORELLE

M edium . G olden w ith red blush and red speckles. Juicy, crisp fle s h w ith sw e et fla v o r

Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked

ASIAN

Round. G olden orange skin w ith w h ite

Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt in salads

speckles. Firm , crunchy, ju ic y fle sh . M ild fla v o r

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

141

stone fruits

Peaches, nectarines, apricots,

Stone fruits are generally only available in the

plums, and cherries are often referred to as stone fruits

summer months, except for some imports from South

because they have one large central pit (stone). These

America. They will soften once picked but not gain any

fruits are usually divided into either “freestone” or

sweetness. Therefore, the fruit generally found in the

“clingstone” varieties. In a freestone fruit, as their name

marketplace will have been picked while still very firm

suggests, the seed, or stone, more easily separates itself

or hard to facilitate shipping without incurring damage

from the flesh, whereas the clingstone pit more tightly

to the soft, fully ripened fruit. Color is the best indica­

adheres to the flesh of the fruit. Because of their ease of

tor of a fruit that is fully matured before picking; look

use, freestone varieties are more frequently utilized for

for full and vibrantly colored fruit with no hint of green.

cooking purposes that require the removal of the stone.

There should also be a full, sweet aroma indicative of

In addition to their fresh form, these fruits are also

the flavor when the fruit is softened. The following

commonly available canned, frozen, and dried. Many

table covers a selection of stone fruit varieties.

countries produce fruit brandies, wines, and cordials flavored with peaches, cherries, and plums.

fS w W H ITE P E A C H

142

PEACH

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

N E C T A R IN E

PLUM

IT A LIA N P L U M

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

PEACHES

M edium to large. Fuzzy skin, w h ite to ye llo w -o ra n g e to red. Very ju ic y fle sh . Two

Eaten o u t o f hand. In jam s and je llie s , ice cream , and de sserts. Canned and d ried

c la s s ific a tio n s : fre e s to n e and c lin g sto n e APRICOTS

M edium . Skin is s lig h tly fuzzy,

Eaten o u t o f hand. In ja m s and

and ye llo w to g o ld -o ra n g e w ith ro sy patches. D rie r tha n a peach.

je llie s , d e sse rts, ju ice. Dried

stone fruits

Stone Fruits

S w eet, s lig h tly t a r t NECTARINES

Large. S m ooth ye llo w and red skin. Firm b u t ju icy. S w e et

Eaten o u t o f hand. In salads and cooked d e sse rts

CHERRIES

Sm all. Ranges in shades fro m red to black; shiny skin. Firm

S w e e t v a rie tie s : eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods and

fle sh . A vaila ble b o th sw e e t and sour

syrups. D ried Sour v a rie tie s : in pies, preserves, and syrups. Dried

Sm all to m edium ; oval to round. Skin ranges fro m green to red to purple. Juicy. Very sw e et

Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, preserves. Some v a rie tie s are d rie d as prunes

Sm all; oval. Purple skin. Y ellow -

Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, pre serve s

PLUMS

ITALIAN PLUMS

green fle s h w ith ve ry sw e et fla v o r and s lig h tly fir m fle s h

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB I D E N T IF IC A T IO N

143

other fruits

A wide variety of fruits fall in the

fruits, such as the passion fruit, can be considered rare,

“others” group, as they do not fit cleanly into another

while others are as common as the banana. The follow­

category. Some of these fruits are tropical, while others

ing table provides information on these uncategorized

are grown in more temperate climates. Many of these

fruits.

P IN EAPPLE

COCONUT

BANANAS

PAPAYA

AVOCADO

RH UBARB

KIWI

144

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

VARIETY AVOCADO

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

Pear shaped. Green to black le a th e ry skin,

In salads, dips (guacamole), salsa. On sandw iches

sm oo th o r bum py. Y ello w ish -gree n, cream y, b u tte r fle sh . M ild fla v o r BANAN A

Y ellow or red in e d ib le peel. S w eet, cream y fle s h

Eaten o u t o f hand. In puddings, baked goods, and o th e r de sse rts

PLANTAIN

Larger, s ta rc h ie r re la tiv e o f th e com m on banana. Hard green peel when unripe; ye llo w to m o ttle d to a lm o st black when ripe. Flesh is p o ta to -lik e fle s h when unripe; becom es in cre a sin g ly sw e et

Eaten cooked a t all stages o f ripeness. E xcelle nt frie d , baked, mashed

other fruits

Other Fruits

and s o ft as it ripens RHUBARB

Long red sta lks, tin g e d w ith green; leaves are

A lw ays eaten cooked. In pies,

poisonous. Crisp te x tu re ; s o fte n s when cooked.

ta rts , and preserves

Sour, t a r t fla v o r COCONUT

Round. Hard, brown, ha iry husk. Firm , cream y, w h ite m eat; th in , w a te ry liq u id in th e center. P rocessed in to coco nu t oil, co co n u t m ilk. D rypackaged sw e eten ed or unsw eetened, shre dd ed

Eaten raw o r cooked. In sw eet and savory p re p a ra tio n s such as chutney, cake, curry

o r fla k e d FIG

GUAVA

Sm all, round o r be ll shaped. S o ft, th in skin; ranges fro m p u rp le -b la c k to lig h t green. Tiny e d ib le seeds. E x tre m e ly sw eet. M o s t com m on v a rie tie s are M ission and C alim yrna O val shape. Thin skin; ranges fro m ye llo w to red to a lm o s t black when ripe. Flesh ranges fro m pale ye llo w to b rig h t red. E x tre m e ly sw e e t and

Eaten o u t o f hand. Dried. In preserves. A ll fo rm s eaten w ith cheese

E xce lle n t fo r jam s, preserves, and sauces; guava paste served w ith cheese

fra g ra n t. C om m only a va ila ble fre s h in green, unripe s ta te ; also a va ila ble canned, fro ze n , as paste KIWI

Sm all, o b lo n g be rry. Fuzzy brow n skin. B rig h t green fle sh , d o tte d w ith tin y ed ib le black seeds.

Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt in sauces and so rb e ts

S o ft, sw eet, t a r t MANGO

PINEAPPLE

Round to obtong-shape. Skin ranges fro m ye llo w

E xce lle n t f o r sw e e t sauces

to green and red. C ontains a single large f la t seed. S w eet, s o ft, b rig h t y e llo w fle sh . A vaila ble fre sh , canned, fro ze n , as puree, nectar, dried . M o s t com m on v a rie ty is Tom m y A tk in s

and s o rb e ts as w e ll as in chutneys. A lso used in its unripe, green fo rm in salads

Large cylinder. Rough, d ia m o n d -p a tte rn e d yellow

Eaten o u t o f hand. G rilled.

skin; long, sw o rd -like leaves s p ro u t fro m to p . Available fresh, frozen, canned, candied, dried. Com m only available v a rie tie s have e xtre m e ly

Juiced. In baked goods

fra g ra n t, juicy, and sw e et b rig h t y e llo w fle sh

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

145

Other Fruits, continued DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

Oval shaped; 3 - 5 inches long w ith 5 d is tin c tiv e

Eaten o u t o f hand. In f r u it

rib s th a t e xte nd o u tw a rd fro m end to end. Yellow to green. C ro sscut slices resem ble

salads, de sserts. As a garnish

VARIETY STAR F R U IT / CARAM BOLA

stars. S w eet, so m e tim e s m ild ly sour fla vo r, re m in is c e n t o f a co m b in a tio n o f pineapple, kiw i, and apple. Firm te x tu re d fle sh PAPAYA

POMEGRANATE

Pear-shaped; ab ou t 6 inches long. G old en -yellow skin. C e nter c a v ity packed w ith black, round, ed ib le seeds. B rig h t pin kish -o ra n g e fle s h when ripe. F ragra nt, sw e et s ilk fle sh . A lso a va ila ble as nectar, puree, dried A pple -shap ed ; fra g ra n t. B rig h t red, le a th e ry skin. C ontains hundreds o f tin y red fle s h covered ed ib le seeds, s e p a ra te d in to p a cke ts by th in cre a m -co lo re d m em branes. Juicy. Very t a r t and sw e et. A lso ava ila ble as ju ic e c o n c e n tra te and m olasses

PASSION FRUIT

Egg-shaped; ab ou t 3 inches long. D im pled skin, da rk p u rple when ripe. E x tre m e ly fra g ra n t

Eaten o u t o f hand, both rip en ed and in its green s ta te ; unripe, in Asian salads. Enzyme (papain) used to te n d e riz e m eat Eaten o u t o f hand, seeds only. O fte n a garnish or pressed f o r ju ice

E xce lle n t in d e sse rts and beverages

yellow , s w e e t-ta rt fle sh , fle c k e d w ith edible black seeds. A vaila ble fre sh , pureed and frozen ; also as canned n e cta r and co n ce n tra te PERSIMMON

Tom ato-shaped. M o s t com m o nly ava ila ble

Eaten o u t o f hand. Hachiya

v a rie tie s : Hachiya and Fuyu. R ed-orange skin and fle sh . S m ooth, cream y te x tu re when ripe

m u st be c a re fu lly ripened b e fo re eaten; e x c e lle n t in pies and puddings. Fuyu eaten crisp or s o ft and fu lly ripened; good in salads

(Hachiya); s o ftly y ie ld in g like a to m a to (Fuyu). T angy-sw eet fla v o r. A vaila ble fre s h or pureed and fro z e n QUINCE

Looks and ta s te s s im ila r to an apple; has te x tu re s im ila r to a pear. Y ello w -skin . F lora l arom a when ripe. C risp w h ite d ry fle sh ; tu rn s pink when cooked. A s trin g e n t raw; sw e e t cooked.

QUINCE

146

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

M u s t be cooked b e fo re e ating. E xce lle n t in jam s, je llie s , preserves, and baked ite m s

cabbage family The cabbage (brassica) fam­

form a head, but are prized for their roots. Turnips

ily includes a wide range of vegetables. Some members

and rutabagas are also members of the brassica family, but

of this family, such as cauliflower and green cabbage,

they are more commonly thought of as root vegetables.

are referred to as heading cabbages. Others, such as

The following table covers a selection of brassica varieties.

bok choy, form loose heads, while other varieties do not

m '■ ■

SA VO Y CABBAG E

RED CAB BAG E

B R U S S E LS SPROUTS

CAU LIFLO W ER

N A PA CA B BA G E

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

147

cabbage family, continued

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

O O "

Cabbage Family

o "

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

BROCCOLI

Deep green flo re ts , som e have purple cast. Pale green, crunchy stem s

Raw. S team ed, boiled, sauteed;

GTQ rD

baked in casseroles p

BROCCOLI RABE/R A PIN I

Deep green. Long, th in ste m s w ith sm all flo re ts ; le afy. S tron g, b itte r fla v o r

S team ed, braised; sauteed w ith olive oil, g a rlic, and crushed red pepper fla k e s

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Round, cabbage shaped, sm all; a b o u t 1 inch in dia m e te r. L ig h t green. S tro n g fla v o r

S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed

BOK CHOY/CHINESE W HITE CABBAGE

Loose head. Green to w h ite crisp stem s; ten der, deep green leaves. M ild fla v o r

Raw in salads. S tir-frie d , steam ed, b o ile d

GREEN CABBAGE

T ig h t, round heading cabbage. L ig h t to

Steamed, braised, sauteed. Ferm ented in sa u e rk ra u t and kim chi. Raw in

m edium green. C risp te x tu re . S om ew hat s tro n g fla v o r RED CABBAGE

T igh t, round heading cabbage. Deep p u rple to m aroon; ste m s on in d ivid u a l

"< !

salads and colesla w S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in salads and colesla w

leaves are w h ite , g ivin g m arbled appearance when cut. C risp te x tu re . S om ew hat s tro n g fla v o r NAPA/CHINESE CABBAGE

E lo ng ated heading cabbage. Broad w h ite ste m s w ith lig h t to m edium green tip s . S o ft, w rin k ly leaves. M ild fla v o r

S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in salads and colesla w

SAVOY CABBAGE

M o d e ra te ly tig h t, round heading cabbage. T extured, w rin k ly , da rk green leaves. M ild fla v o r

Raw. S team ed, braised, sauteed

CAULIFLOW ER

W hite, green, o r purple flo w e rin g head w ith green leaves. S om e w h at s tro n g fla v o r

Raw. S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed, ro a ste d ; baked in casseroles

KO HLRABI/CABBAGE TURNIP

Round, tu rn ip -s h a p e d bulb w ith stem s and leaves a tta ch e d . W h ite w ith purple tin t. Tender. M ild ly sw e et

Raw. S team ed, boiled, s tir - fr ie d

KALE

Deep green, som e tim es w ith purple hues. R u ffle d leaves. M ild cabbage fla v o r

S auteed, boiled, steam ed. In soups

COLLARD GREENS

Large, fla t, rounded green leaves. S im ila r to cabbage and kale in fla v o r

S team ed, sauteed, braised; boiled w ith a ham hock

TURNIP GREENS

Broad, f la t green leaves. Tough, coarse te x tu re . S tro n g ly fla v o re d

Steam ed, sauteed, braised

BROCCOLINI

B rig h t green, long s le n d e r s ta lk s w ith sm all flo re ts . Crunchy. M ild, sw eet; ta s te s like a cross be tw ee n asparagus

Steam ed, bo ile d, sauteed, g rille d

and b ro c c o li BABY BOK C H O Y/ PAKCH O Y

Sm all v a rie ty o f bok choy. L ig h t green, te n d e r leaves. C risp sta lks

B raised, s tir- fr ie d , steam ed. In soups

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

149

soft-shell squash, cucumber, and eggplant Soft-shell squash, cucumber,

varieties cook rather quickly, while cucumbers are most often eaten raw. Select soft-shell squashes, eggplants,

and eggplant are all vegetables that are picked when

and cucumbers that are on the smaller side, firm,

they are immature to ensure a delicate flesh, tender

brightly colored, and without bruising. These varieties

seeds, and thin skins. Soft-shell squash and eggplant

should all be refrigerated.

CHAYOTE B A B Y PATTYPAN SQUASH

ENGLISH CU CU M B ER

ZUCCHINI

JAPAN ES E EG G PLAN T

S T A N D A R D /PU R P LE EG G PLA N T

YELLO W SQUASH

SQ UASH BLO SSO M

K IR B Y CU CU M B ER

WHITE EG G PLA N T

STAN D AR D /SLICIN G CU CU M B ER

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

USES

S m all to m edium d isk shape w ith scallop ed edge. L ig h t green to yellow , so m e tim e s spe ckle d or s tre a ke d w ith da rk green. Tender. M ild fla v o r

S team ed, sauteed, frie d

M edium to large pear shape. Ligh t green w ith deep

S team ed, sauteed, s tir-frie d , s tu ffe d and baked, frie d

soft-shell squash PATTYPAN

CHAYOTE/M IRLITO N

"puckers" between halves. W hite flesh surrounding one seed. M ild fla v o r CROOKNECK

Long, b e n t n a rrow neck a tta c h e d to a la rg e r base.

S team ed, sauteed, frie d

Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith bum ps. L ig h t ye llo w fle sh . D e lica te fla v o r YELLO W

E lo ng ated pear shape. Yellow skin. C re am -colore d fle sh . M ild fla v o r

S team ed, sauteed, frie d , g rille d

ZUCCHINI

N arrow , c y lin d ric a l shape. Green w ith fle c k s o f ye llo w o r w h ite . Cream y fle s h w ith green hue. M ild fla v o r

g rille d . In quick breads and

SQUASH BLOSSOM S

S o ft, ye llo w -o ra n g e flo w e rs w ith a green stem . S qu ash -like fla v o r; m ild fla v o r

S team ed, sauteed, frie d , f r it t e r s Raw in salads. S tu ffe d , baked, sauteed, frie d . In fritta ta s , as garnish

cucumbers STANDARD/SLICING CUCUMBER

Long, narrow , ta p e rin g a t ends. Thin green skin, so m e tim e s w ith pale green s p o ttin g . C ream y w h ite fle sh ; seedy. C risp and re fre sh in g ; m ild fla v o r

KIRBY

S h o rte r tha n sta n d a rd cucu m be r b u t w ith same dia m e te r. Green skin, so m e tim e s w ith w a rts . W h ite fle sh . Very crunchy te x tu re . M ild fla v o r

E N G LIS H /B U R P LE S S / HO THO USE/ SEEDLESS

P ickled or raw. In salads, relish, and uncooked sauces such as ra ita Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt p ickle d

Long, even c y lin d e r w ith som e rid gin g. V ib ra n t green skin. C risp te x tu re ; no seeds. M ild fla v o r

P ickled. In salads and cru d ite s

Rounded o r e lon gate d pear shape. Deep p u rp le black skin w ith a sheen; green calyx a tta c h e d at

S tew ed, braised, roa ste d, g rille d , frie d ; p o pu lar dishes include ra ta to u ille , baba

eggplant STANDARD/PURPLE

th e to p . O ff-w h ite fle sh . Can be s lig h tly b itte r, e sp e cia lly la rg e r veg etab le s; o th e rw is e sw e e t

JAPANESE

W HITE

Long, narrow, cylinder; so m e tim es arched. Deep pu rp le -b la ck s tria te d skin w ith a sheen; purple to black calyx a tta ch e d a t th e to p . Tender flesh . M ild ly sw eet May be long, round, or egg shaped. M ilky w hite, som etim es w ith purple streaks; tou ghe r skin. Firm, sm ooth flesh. S ligh tly b itte r

ganoush, and eg gp lan t Parm esan S tew ed, braised, roa ste d, g rille d , frie d

S tew ed, braised, roasted, g rille d , frie d

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

soft-shell squash, cucumber, and eggplant

Soft-Shell Squash, Cucumber, and Eggplant

hard-shell squash

Hard-shell squashes,

also members of the gourd family, are characterized by

Select squashes that are heavy for their size, with a hard, unblemished rind. Hard-shell squashes may be

their hard, thick skins and seeds. These thick skins and

stored in a cool, dark place for many weeks without de­

yellow to orange flesh require longer cooking than their

teriorating in quality.

soft-shelled counterparts.

BLU E H UBBARD RED KURI

SPAGHETTI

CARN IVAL

K ABO CH A

STRIPED EDDY

SW EET DUM PLING

DELICATA

WHITE AND ORANGE JA C K BE LITTLE PU M PKINS

152

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

B UTTERNU T SQ UASH

VARIETY*

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

ACORN

A corn shape w ith deep ridges. Dark green, usually w ith som e orange. Deep orange fle sh . S lig h tly s trin g y te x tu re . S w e et fla v o r

Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed w ith honey or m aple syrup. In soups

BUTTERNUT

E lo ng ated pear shape. Tan skin. B rig h t

Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed

orange, cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r

w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups

Large. D u sty green to b rig h t orange, can also be blue. Very w a rty skin. Y ellow -

Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups

HUBBARD

hard-shell squash

Hard-Shell Squash

orange fle sh ; gra in y te x tu re . S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r PUM PKIN

W ide v a rie ty o f pu m pkins w ith d iffe re n t uses: pie (round, b rig h t orange, green stem ); Jack Be L ittle o r m ini (m in ia tu re versions, w h ite o r orange); cheese (large, fla t, beige) are com m on v a rie tie s .

Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups, pies, and qu ick breads. Seeds, known as p e p ita s, are ro a ste d

Cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r SPAGHETTI

W a te rm e lo n shape. B rig h t ye llo w skin and fle sh ; a fte r it is cooked, th e fle s h se p a ra te s in to strand s. M ild fla v o r

S team ed, ro a ste d

DELICATA/SW EET

O blong shape. Yellow skin w ith green s trip e s . B rig h t ye llo w fle sh . E x tre m e ly

S team ed, ro a ste d

POTATO SQUASH

sw e e t fla v o r

* There are many varieties of hard-shell squashes available only within small regions. See the photo on facing page for some harder-to-find varieties.

c h a p t e r s » FRUIT. V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

153

lettuce

Each of the thousands of lettuce varieties

As with most greens, it is very important to thor­

can be classified into one of the following categories:

oughly wash lettuce, as dirt and grit tend to hide between

butterhead, crisphead, romaine, or leaf. Select lettuce

the leaves. Never submerge lettuce in water for an

that is crisp, never wilted or bruised. Lettuce should not

extended amount of time, and be sure that it is dried

be washed, cut, or torn until just before service. Store

well after washing (a salad spinner is great for this).

lettuce in the refrigerator, covered loosely with damp

The following table covers several varieties of lettuce.

paper towels. BOSTON

ICEBERG

%

,

RED LEAF

ROM AINE

' ^

W

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

L o ose ly fo rm e d heads. S o ft, ve ry te n d e r

In salads. Braised

lettuce

Lettuce

butterhead BOSTON

leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild , sw eet, d e lica te BIBB

L o ose ly fo rm e d heads; sm a lle r tha n B oston.

In salads. Braised

S o ft, ve ry te n d e r leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild, sw eet, d e lic a te

crisphead and romaine ICEBERG

T ig h t heading le ttu c e . Pale green leaves. Very m ild

In salads, shredded or served as a wedge. G arnish f o r M exican fo o d

ROMAINE

Long c y lin d ric a l head. O u te r leaves are ribbed; da rk green leaves, becom ing lig h te r on th e in te rio r. O u te r leaves are s lig h tly b itte r, inner

In salads, esp e cia lly Caesar salad. Braised

leaves m ild and sw e et

leaf RED LEAF/GREEN LEAF

Loose heading le ttu c e . M ay be green or red tip p e d ; ten der, crisp leaves. M ild, becom ing

In salads, w ra ps in Asian cuisine

b itte r w ith age OAK LEAF

Loose heading le ttu c e . S ca llo p in g on ten der,

In salads

crisp leaves. N u tty fla v o r

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

155

bitter salad greens

Bitter salad greens are

arugula to crimson heads of radicchio. Selection cri­

tender enough to be eaten raw in salads, but may also

teria and handling practices for bitter salad greens are

be sauteed, steamed, grilled, or braised. There are many

similar to those for lettuce. The following table covers

varieties that fit into this category, from green, leafy

several varieties of bitter salad greens.

ESCA R O LE

FRISEE

RADICCHIO

BELGIAN ENDIVE

A R U G U LA

M A C H E /L A M B 'S LETTUCE W ATERCRESS

TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

ARU G U LA/RO CKET

Rounded " te e th ” on th e ends o f te n d e r leaves; v ib ra n t green. P eppery fla v o r

In salads, pe sto, soups. Sauteed

BELGIAN ENDIVE

T ight, ob lo ng head. W hite, crisp leaves w ith yellow ish -gree n or red a t tip s. M ild ly b itt e r fla v o r

In salads. G rilled, roa ste d, braised

FRISEE

Thin, cu rly leaves; w h ite w ith ye llo w ish green tip s . M ild ly b itte r

In salads, le ttu c e m ixes such as m esclun

ESCAROLE

H eading le ttu c e . Scalloped, c rin k ly edges on green leaves. S lig h tly b itte r fla v o r

In salads and soups. Braised, stew ed

M A C H E /L A M B ’S LETTUCE

Loose bunches. Thin, rounded dark green leaves. Very tender, D elicate, sw e et fla v o r

In salads. S team ed

RADICCHIO

Round or o b lo ng heads. Firm , deep red to p u rple leaves, w h ite veining. B itte r fla v o r

In salads. G rilled, sauteed, baked, braised

WATERCRESS

Sm all, scallop ed d a rk-gre en, crisp

In salads, sandw iches, and soups. As a garnish

leaves. M u s ta rd -lik e , p e p p e ry fla v o r

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

bitter salad greens

Bitter Salad Greens

157

cooking greens

Cooking greens are the ed­

are similar to those for lettuce and bitter salad greens.

ible leaves of certain plants that are often too fibrous to

The following table covers several varieties of cooking

eat without first being sauteed, steamed, or braised. Se­

greens. See the cabbage family table on page 149 for in­

lection criteria and handling practices for cooking greens

formation on kale, collard greens, and turnip greens.

SW ISS CHARD M USTARD GREEN S

BEET GREENS

BABY SPINACH

DANDELION GREEN S

RAINBOW SW ISS CHARD

158

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

B A B Y SWISS CHARD (WHITE AND RED)

O O

Cooking Greens

O

FT

i—*• VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

BEETGREENS

F la t leaves; deep green, red rib bin g. M ild, e a rth y fla v o r

Steam ed, sauteed, braised

DANDELION GREENS

Narrow , to o th -e d g e d leaves; tender, crisp; b rig h t green. M ild ly b itt e r fla v o r

Salads, steam ed, sauteed, braised

Scalloped, n a rrow leaves; d a rk green;

S team ed, sauteed, sim m ered, braised

2

QTQ GTQ i-5 O) CD

P MUSTARD GREENS

co

crisp. P eppery, m u sta rd fla vo r. Also ava ila ble fro z e n and canned SPINACH

Leaves may be d e ep ly lobed o r fla t, d e pe nd ing upon v a rie ty ; deep green. M ild fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble fro z e n

In salads and sandw iches. Steam ed, sauteed, braised

SWISS CHARD

Lobed, w rin k le d te n d e r da rk green

In soups. S team ed, sauteed, braised. B oth s ta lk s and leaves are eaten

leaves. C risp sta lks; s ta lk s and rib s may be w h ite , yellow , or red. M ild fla v o r

CHEF'S NOTES ON COOKING GREENS Cooking greens are also known as pot­

greens can also be eaten at any stage of

herbs. These vegetables are high in fiber,

development. If they are tender and young,

iron, calcium, and photochemicals, such

they may be cooked briefly or eaten raw.

as vitamins C and A, and folic acid. They

Always look for cool and moist greens

are considered a “superfood,” indicating

with a rich green color and no signs of

that they are one of the most naturally

dryness, yellowing, or wilted edges. Store

nutrient-rich foods. Most cooking greens

any green vegetables in a perforated plastic

are considered cool season vegetables,

bag, or wrapped in a cotton towel in the

making them a good choice for gardens in

refrigerator.

areas with shorter growing seasons. These

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

159

mushrooms

Mushrooms are a fungus that ex­

a sign of age. Conversely, when selecting portobellos—

ists in thousands of varieties. Cultivated mushrooms,

mature cremini—it is desirable for the gills to be open

commonly available today, include the familiar white

signifying a concentration of flavor. Mushrooms that

mushroom and varieties such as portobello, cremini,

are to be cooked whole should be of equal size so that

shiitake, and oyster mushrooms. Wild mushrooms,

they cook evenly. Mushrooms should be stored in the refrigerator, in

prized for their concentrated, earthy flavor, include the cepe (porcini), chanterelle, morel, and the truffle.

a single layer, covered with damp paper towels. When

Knowing your purveyor is important when you have

you want to use them, wipe mushrooms with a damp

wild mushrooms on the menu, as many varieties Eire

paper towel, or very quickly rinse them in cold water

poisonous. Some varieties of mushrooms are available

and drain immediately. Mushrooms should never be

canned, frozen, and dried.

submerged in water, since they absorb it like a sponge

Select mushrooms that are firm, without blemishes or breaks. If using varieties such as the white or crem­

and will become mushy. See the following table for in­ formation on varieties of mushrooms.

ini, the caps should be tightly closed, as opened gills are

O YSTER

M AITAKE

PO RTO BELLO

SHIITAKE

CREMINI WHITE LO BSTER

C H A N TE R ELLE M ATSU TAKE

M O REL

160

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

J VARIETY WHITE

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

W h ite to b u ff colore d. Round cap, V i- 3 inches in dia m e te r; "b u tto n " re fe rs to the

Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In sauces, soups, stew s; s tu ffe d and baked

s m a lle s t o f th is v a rie ty . F irm te x tu re w ith m ild, w oodsy fla v o r CEPE/PORCINI

CHANTERELLE

Pale brow n, 1 -1 0 inches in d iam e te r. S m ooth, m e a ty te x tu re . P ungent fla vo r. A vaila ble d ried

Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In sauces, soups, stew s

G olden to a p ric o t; tru m p e t shaped. Chewy

Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In

te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r

sauces, soups, stew s

CREMINI

D ark brown, round cap, V 2 - 2 inches in diam e te r. Firm te x tu re

Raw or cooked. In sauces

ENOKI

W h ite to b u ff; long, slender, s ta lk -lik e

Raw o r cooked. In salads and soups. As garnish

m ushroom s. Crunchy te x tu re . M ild, f r u ity fla v o r LOBSTER

Deep red, m o ttle d color. Large fungus w ith

m ushroom s

Mushrooms

S auteed. In sauces

very dense te x tu re and m eaty fla v o r MOREL

Tan to ve ry da rk brow n; cone-shaped, ho llo w cap; 2 - 4 inches in height. F irm b u t spongy te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d

S auteed. In sauces and salads

PORTOBELLO

Dark brown; opened, f la t caps; 3 - 6 inches in diam eter. Dense, m eaty te x tu re . S tro n g ly fla vo re d

Sauteed, g rille d . In sandw iches and salads

OYSTER

Cream y to s ilv e ry gray; c lu s te r o f fa n ­ shaped m ushroom s. D e lica te te x tu re . P eppery fla v o r when raw; m ellow s when cooked

Sauteed, b ro ile d

SHIITAKE

Tan to brow n; 3 - 6 inches in diam e te r. M e a ty te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d

Sauteed, b ro ile d , g rille d . S tem s used in s to c k

Black o r o ff-w h ite ; irre g u la rly shaped,

S erved raw over pasta. In sauces and ris o tto s

TRUFFLE

w rin k le d . P e rfu m e y fragra nce ; ea rth y, g a rlic k y fla vo r. A vaila ble canned, fro ze n , and as fla v o re d oil MATSUTAKE

Dark brow n. Dense, m e a ty te x tu re . N u tty , fra g ra n t fla v o r

Braised, g rille d , steam ed, frie d

M AITA K E /H E N -O F -T H E WOODS

G rayish-brow n. T ig h tly clu ste re d , ove rla pping , fa n -sh ap ed caps; w h ite stem s. Chewy te x tu re . Deep fla v o r

S auteed

Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

161

onion family Onions, invaluable to any kitch­

Select dry onions, garlic, and shallots that are heavy

en, belong to the lily family. They fall into two main

for their size and have tight-fitting, dry, papery skins.

categories, reflecting the state in which they are used:

Green onions should be green with white bottoms. They

dry (cured) and green (fresh). Green onions include seal

should be crisp, not wilted. Dry onions, shallots, and

lions, leeks, and ramps. Dry onions are categorized by

garlic should be stored in a relatively cool, dry area of the

size and color. They can range in size from pearl to Span­

kitchen in the bags or boxes in which they are received.

ish, and from white to yellow to red in color.

Green onions should be refrigerated and must be thor­

Garlic, shallots, and onions (green and dry) all share a pungent flavor and aroma. Dry onions make up half

oughly washed before they are used (leeks tend to have dirt between each layer). Chives are also a member of the onion family, though

of the most fundamental aromatic combination, mirepoix. Green onions, whether cooked (leeks) or raw (scallions),

their main culinary application is similar to that of fresh

impart a sweetly subtle onion flavor. Shallots and garlic are

herbs. See the following table for more information on

the flavoring agents in innumerable preparations.

onions.

P EA R L ONIONS RED, WHITE, AND GOLD

i

SPANISH ONION

- m

CIPOLLINI ONIONS

GARLIC

w GREEN ONIONS

162

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

O

0

i—*•

Onion Family

j

VARIETY

O

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

P

dry PEARL/CREAM ER

Sm all, W in c h -d ia m e te r, oval onion. M ay be w h ite or red. M ild fla v o r

B oiled, pickled , brined; as garnish in drinks. In ste w s and braises

BOILING

Sm all, 1 -in ch -d ia m e te r, round onion. W h ite or ye llo w skin. M ild fla v o r

In ste w s and soups. P ickled

CIPOLLINI

Sm all, round, fla tte n e d onion. Yellow, p a pe ry skin.

R oasted, g rille d . In casseroles

S lig h tly sw e e t fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble pre se rve d in o il GLOBE

SPANISH /JU M BO

SWEET

M edium , round, 1 - 4 inches in diam e te r. M ay be w h ite , yellow , or red. P ungent fla v o r

In stew s, soups, sauces; c o m p o n e n t in m ire p o ix

Large, 3 -in ch or m ore dia m e te r, round; known as C olossal when d ia m e te r exceeds 3V2 inches. Yellow, red, or w h ite . M ild fla v o r

A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces, braises, stew s; com p on ent o f m ire p o ix

Large, so m e tim e s fla tte n e d . W h ite to yellow .

Raw in salads. G rilled, sauteed, frie d

S w e e t fla v o r. V a rie tie s include W alla W alla, V id a lia , M aui GARLIC

Sm all bulb, 2 - 3 inches in diam eter. Papery w h ite o r re d -s tre a k e d skin, encasing V 2- to 1-inchlong in d ivid u a l cloves, also covered w ith papery

A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces, braises, stew s. R oasted and pureed

skin. Pungent flavo r. E lephant ga rlic: m ore m ild ly fla v o re d , bulb can be as large as a sm all g ra p e fru it. G arlic greens are also available; m ild ly fla v o re d ; used much like scallions SHALLOTS

Small, 1 -2 inches in length; usually cloves bunched to g e th e r. L ig h t brown papery skin. W h ite -p u rp le

A ro m a tic in soups, sauces, braises, stew s. F ried as garnish

fle sh . M ild fla v o r

green LEEKS

Long, th ic k c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem end, g ra d u a lly becom ing dark green a t to p . Tender. S u b tle onion fla v o r

A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces, braises, stew s; com p on ent o f w h ite m ire p o ix. S auteed, g rille d , stea m e d, braised, frie d as garnish

R A M P S /W ILD

Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem end, so m e tim e s w ith a pu rp le hue, gra d u a lly be com ing green a t to p . G a rlicky fla v o r. H ighly seasonal

A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces,

Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith c y lin d ric a l leaves; w h ite s te m end gra d u a lly becom ing green a t to p . M ild, grassy onion fla v o r

A ro m a tic in s tir-fr ie s . Raw in salads; as garnish

LEEKS

GREEN O N IO N S / SCALLIONS

braises, stew s. Sauteed, g rille d , steam ed, braised, frie d as garnish. P ickled

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

163

peppers

There are two basic types of peppers:

imperative to take precautions when handling chiles;

sweet peppers and chiles. Sweet peppers are sometimes

wear gloves, wash cutting surfaces and knives, and

called bell peppers because of their shape. Sweet pep­

avoid contact with sensitive tissue such as the eyes. Chiles are available fresh, canned, dried (whole,

pers of various colors have similar flavors, though red

flaked, and ground), and smoked. Frequently, dried and/or

and yellow varieties tend to be sweeter. Chiles, an important ingredient in many cuisines, are available in various sizes, colors, and levels of heat.

smoked chiles are given a name different than their fresh counterpart (e.g., smoked jalapenos are called chipotles). When selecting both categories, look for firm, heavy

Capsaicin is the compound that gives a chile its heat, and it is most potent in the white ribs inside the pepper.

peppers, with tight, glossy skin, without puckering or

Generally, the hotter chiles are smaller in size. It is

wrinkling. The flesh should be relatively thick and crisp.

RED, YELLO W , AND GREEN SWEET

M AN ZANA

RED AND GREEN HABANER0

FRESH AND DRIED THAI BIRD CHILES

S ER RAN O ANCHO GUAJILLO

ANAHEIM

JA LA PEN O

FRESNO

POBLAN O

CHIPOTLE

TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

VARIETY SWEET PEPPERS

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

Bell-shaped; 3 -5 inches long, 2 - 4 inches

In salads. Raw; sauteed, g rille d , ro a ste d , s tu ffe d and baked

w ide. Green, red, yellow , o r purple. Crisp, ju ic y fle sh . M ild, sw e et fla v o r. R oasted pe pp ers are a va ila ble canned and b o ttle d

peppers

Peppers

chiles/hot peppers (listed in order from mild to hot) A N A H E IM /C A LIFO R N IA

Long, narrow , ta p e re d . Green; red v a rie ty is known as C olorado. S w eet, m ild fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble dried , called m a riso l

In salsa. S tu ffe d

POBLANO

Large, ta p e re d , fla tte n e d cone; 4 -5 inches long, 3 inches w ide. Very dark green, so m e tim e s w ith a black hue. M ild fla v o r. A lso ava ila ble d ried , called ancho o r m ulato

C om m only s tu ffe d , as chiles rellenos. In soups and stew s

FRESNO

Sm all to m edium , ta p e re d ; 2 - 3 inches long. Deep green o r red. Range fro m m ild to m edium hot

In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups

JALAPENO

Sm all to m edium ; ta p e re d chile; 2 inches long, 3/ t inch w ide. Deep green or red. Range fro m h o t to v e ry hot. A vaila ble

In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups, stew s, relish. S tu ffe d

canned and b o ttle d . Sm oked and d rie d called c h ip o tle s SERRANO

Sm all, skinny; I V 2 inches long. Dark

In sauces, salsa

green to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble canned in o il o r p ickle d . D ried, in w hole or po w d ered fo rm , called chile seco THAI

Tiny, thin ; 1 inch long, V * inch w ide. Green to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble dried,

In sauces, s tir-frie s , as garnish

called b ird chiles HABANERO

Sm all; la n te rn shaped. Pale green to orange. E x tre m e ly hot; a s im ila r v a rie ty is th e S cotch bonnet. A lso a va ila ble

In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d co n d im e n ts

d rie d M ANZANA

Sm all, apple-shaped; I V 2 - 2 inches long. Red, yellow , o r green; black seeds in a pod th a t pull aw ay fro m th e fle sh . S im ila r in he at to habanero pe pp ers

In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d co n d im e n ts

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

165

pod and seed vegetables

This group

snap peas, snow peas, green beans, and wax beans. In

includes fresh legumes (peas, beans, and bean sprouts),

other cases, the peas or beans (such as limas, scarlet

as well as corn and okra. All varieties are best eaten

runners, and black-eyed peas) are removed from their

young, when they are at their sweetest and most tender.

inedible pods. Select vegetables that are crisp, brightly

If possible, purchase pod and seed vegetables from lo­

colored, and free of discoloration. Peas, beans, and corn

cal growers to minimize the time between picking and

are also available dried, as discussed in Chapter 10.

serving. This is especially important with peas and corn. Some fresh peas and beans are eaten whole, when the pods are still fleshy and tender—for example, sugar GREEN BEAN

HARICOTS VERTS

SNOW PEA

CHINESE LO N G / YARD LONG BEAN

CORN

G R EEN / EN G LISH / G ARDEN PEA FAVA BEAN

SU G A R S N A P P EA

Y ELLO W ROM ANO BEAN GREEN RO M AN O BEAN

TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN

ED A M A M E

VARIETY

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

CORN

Papery husk su rro u n d in g s ilk -lik e hair and long, th ic k cobs. Y ellow a n d /o r w h ite kernels. Juicy, sw eet. C om m only a va ila ble canned and fro ze n

B oiled, steam ed, g rille d . O fte n cut o f f th e cob f o r soups, cream ed corn, succotash, and o th e r side dishes

Long, th in , ed ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all

B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d

beans GREEN BEAN

seeds. D ull green; s im ila r v a rie tie s include a pale ye llo w (wax bean) o r p u rp le (B urgundy bean, w hich tu rn s green when cooked). C om m only a va ila ble canned and fro z e n HARICOTS V ER TS/ FRENCH GREEN BEAN

Long, v e ry th in , e d ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all seeds. D ull green. V e lve ty skin

B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d

ROMANO BEAN

W ide, fla t- lo o k in g ed ib le pods. D ull green. M ore pronounced fla v o r tha n green beans

B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d

CHINESE LONG B E A N /

D ull green, v e lv e ty skin; V * inch th ic k , 1 8 -3 6 inches long. Edible pods c o n ta in in g sm all seeds. F le xib le te x tu re

Sauteed, s tir - fr ie d

LIM A BEAN

Long, large, in e d ib le pods; large, plum p, kid ne y-shap ed beans. Green pods; lig h t green beans. Known as b u tte r beans in th e so u th e rn U n ite d S ta te s. A lso a va ila ble fro ze n , canned, d ried

B oile d and sauteed; pureed. Served h o t o r cold. In succotash

FAVA BEAN

Long, large, in e d ib le green pods; large, fla t, kid ne y-shap ed beans. Tough lig h t green

YARD-LONG BEAN

pod and seed vegetables

Pod and Seed Vegetables

B oile d and sauteed; pureed. S erved h o t o r cold

skin m ust be peeled aw ay to reveal th e lig h t green bean. A lso a va ila ble dried CRANBERRY BEAN

Large, in ed ible, lig h t ta n pod, fle c k e d w ith red. O ff-w h ite and re d -s p lo tc h e d beans. N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble d ried

B oile d and sauteed; pureed. Served h o t o r cold. In soup

EDAM AM E/G REEN SOYBEAN

Fuzzy, green in e d ib le pods, 1 - 2 inches long; co n ta in green beans. S w e et fla v o r

B oile d and steam ed, as a snack or a p p e tiz e r

GREEN PEA/ENG LISH PEA/GARDEN PEA

Tapered, rounded, in e d ib le green pods. Sm all, round, shiny, lig h t green peas. S w e et fla v o r

S team ed, stew ed. Pureed in soups; so m e tim e s chille d

SNOW PEA

Thin, fla t, edible, green pod, c o n ta in in g tin y

S team ed, s tir-frie d . Eaten raw

peas

seeds. Crisp. S w e et fla v o r SUGAR SNAP PEA

Plump, e d ib le deep green pod co n ta in in g sm all peas. Crunchy. S w e et fla v o r

S team ed, s tir -frie d . Eaten raw

Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

167

root vegetables

Roots serve as a food storage

area for plants; therefore, they are rich in sugars,

Root vegetables should be stored dry and unpeeled. If they come with greens attached, these should be

starches, vitamins, and minerals. Roots primarily move

healthy in appearance at the time of purchase and cut

nutrients and moisture to the tops of the plant. Veg­

off as soon as possible thereafter. When properly stored,

etables such as beets, carrots, and turnips are directly

most root vegetables will retain good quality for several

attached to the plant via leaves or leaf stems.

weeks,

FRENCH RADISH

RED RADISH

B A B Y WHITE TURNIPS

B A B Y CARRO TS

LAR G E RED BEET

TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN

B A B Y BEETS

o o < • KASH A

*

*

A M A R A N TH

M ILLET

QUINOA

PEA R LED B A R L E Y

B A R L E Y FLOUR

FARRO

210

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

NAME

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

BUCKWHEAT

W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. L ig h t brown. M ild ly n u tty fla v o r

As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used f o r pancakes, blinis, baked goods

KASHA

Hulled, crushed kernels (b u ckw h e a t g ro a ts), ro a ste d . R edd ish-b row n . Chewy te x tu re . T oasty, n u tty fla v o r

In p ila fs, salads, savory pancakes

M ILLET

W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. Bland fla v o r

other grains

Other Grains

As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used f o r puddings, fla tb re a d s , cakes

SORGHUM

C om m only bo ile d to a th ic k syrup

In p o rrid g e , fla tb re a d s , beer, syrup, m olasses

RYE

W hole, cracked, o r m ille d in to flo u r. Ranges fro m lig h t to d a rk brow n. Dense.

In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r baked goods

P um p ern ickel flo u r is v e ry dark, coa rsely ground rye TEFF

W hole; e x tre m e ly tin y . L ig h t to re d d ish brow n. S w eet, c h e s tn u t-lik e fla v o r

In soups, casseroles. As th icke n in g ag en t

AM AR AN TH

W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. C o lor ranges fro m w h ite to tan, gold, o r pink. S w e et fla v o r

As h o t and cold cereal. In p ila f, salads, soups

SPELT

W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. M o d e ra te ly n u tty fla v o r

In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r baked goods

JOB'S TEARS

W hole; sm all, w h ite . S lig h tly chewy te x tu re . G rass-like fla v o r

In p ila fs , salads

QUINOA

W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. V ery tin y

In p ila fs , salads, puddings, soups, as an a d d itio n to po le nta

circles. O ff-w h ite , red, o r black. M ild fla v o r BARLEY

H ulled and p e arl (hull and bran rem oved). V a rie tie s: g rits , flo u r. Tan to w h ite . N u tty fla v o r

In p ila fs , salads, soups. Used to make w h iske y and beer

c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

211

dried pasta and noodles

different flours and grains. Good-quality dried pastas

Dried pasta

is a valuable convenience food. It stores well, cooks

from wheat flour are customarily made from durum

quickly, and comes in an extensive array of shapes,

semolina. Pasta may be flavored or colored with spin­

sizes, and flavors, as described in the table on pages 214

ach, tomatoes, beets, herbs, or squid ink.

to 215. Pasta and noodles are made from a number of

FUSILLI

ISRAELI CO USCOUS

TUBETTI

ORECCHIETTE

CO U SCO U S

ORZO

212

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

dried pasta and noodles c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

213

Dried Pasta and Noodles NAME

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

BUCATINI

H ollow , long strand s; s p a g h e tti-sh a p e d

S erved w ith th ic k e r sauces

BEAN THREAD

Slender, g e la tin o u s noodles. M ade fro m

NOODLES

m ung beans

In soups, s tir frie s , salads, de sserts, drinks. Com m on in A s ia n -in flu e n ce d dishes

CAPELLINI

FETTUCCINE

Thin, long strand s. T hin ne r version: ca p e lli d'angelo (angel hair)

Served w ith b ro th , oil, o r ve ry lig h t

T hick, long stra n d s; fla t, rib bo n-sha pe d

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces,

sauces

s p e c ific a lly cream sauces LASAGNE

T hick, long, fla t, w ide noodles; r u ffle d

In casseroles

edges LINGUINE

RICE NOODLES

Thin, long, fla tte n e d strand s. Name

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t

com es fro m th e Ita lia n lingua, o r tongue

to heavy

V arious w id th s ; long strand s. M ade fro m

Com m on in A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes

rice flo u r SO BANO O D LES

R ibbon-shaped, fin e , long stra n d s. M ade fro m b u ckw h e a t flo u r

SPAGHETTI

V arious w id th s ; round, long strand s

In soups, s tir frie s . Common in A sianin flu e n ce d dishes Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t to heavy

UDO N NO O D LES

Thick, long stra n d s

In soups, stew s, s tir frie s . Common in A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes

VERM ICELLI

Thin, long stra n d s; s im ila r to s p a g h e tti

In b ro th s, soups. Served w ith lig h t sauces

ACINI DEPEPE

Sm all, rice -shap ed

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles

CASARECCIA

S ho rt, ro lle d , tw is te d in to an S-shape

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles

ELBOWS

S h o rt, narrow , curved tu b e s

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles

FARFALLE

M edium , b o w tie -sh a p e d

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles

FUSILLI

214

S h o rt, co rkscre w -sh a p e d

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

ORECCHIETTE

Cupped, curved rounds

S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles

ORZO

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

Sm all, grain -sh ap ed

soups, salads, casseroles

PENNE

RADIATORE

S h o rt tub es, sm o o th o r ridged, d ia g o n a lly cut

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

S ho rt, chunky w ith rip p le d edges

S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

soups, salads, casseroles

RIGATONI

T hick, rid ge d tu b e s

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles

SHELLS

S m all to large. Resem ble conch shells

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles; la rge r

dried pasta and noodles

NAME

she lls s tu ffe d

TUBETTI

Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

Sm all to m edium , tu b e -sh a p e d

soups, salads, casseroles

COUSCOUS

Sm all, irre g u la r shape; g ra in -lik e . S im ila r to coarse sand

As h o t cereal. In p ila fs , salads

ISRAELI COUSCOUS

L a rge r than tra d itio n a l couscous. P earllike, sm oo th , round balls. Chewy te x tu re .

In p ila fs , salads, soups

S o m e tim e s to a s te d ITALIAN CO USCOUS/ FREG O LASARD A

L a rge r tha n tra d itio n a l couscous;

In salads, fis h - o r to m a to -b a s e d

irre g u la r shape. S un-baked. G olden brow n. Chewy te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r

soups

c h a p te r i o

» DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

2 15

dried legumes

Commonly referred to as

used within six months of purchase. When purchasing

beans or peas, legumes are the dried seeds of pod-bear-

legumes, look for beans/peas that are bright and shiny

ing plants. Legumes are considered to be a staple food

and free of dust or mold.

to many cuisines throughout the world. Legumes become drier and harder and require a longer cooking time as they age, so they are best if

1

Always rinse them before preparing, to remove any foreign, inedible debris. Discard any beans or peas that appear moldy, damp, or wrinkled.

•

LENTILS

RED LENTILS GREEN LENTILS

CH ICKPEAS PIGEON PEAS GREEN SPLIT PEAS

F LA G EO LETS B LA C K BEAN S

LIM A B EAN S

C R A N B E R R Y B EAN S

216

K ID N EY B EA N S

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

GREAT NORTHERN BEAN S

NAME(S)

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

Sm all. R e ddish-brow n. A vaila ble w hole

P opular in Japanese cuisine. Used in c o n fe c tio n s as a sw e e t pa ste or s u g a r-co a te d . In savory dishes

beans ADZUKI

or pow dered. S w e e t fla v o r

BLACK/TURTLE

CANARY

In soups, stew s, salsas, salads, side

Large. Black e x te rio r, lig h t cream y in te rio r. S w e et fla v o r

dishes

S lig h tly sm a lle r tha n p in to beans. C anary-yellow . S w e et and n u tty fla v o r

s p e c ific a lly stew s

P opular in Peruvian dishes,

C A N N E LLIN I/IT A LIA N

M edium ; kidney-shaped. W h ite . N u tty

M in e s tro n e soup, salads, stew s, side

KIDNEY

fla v o r

dishes

CRANBERRY

Sm all, round. L ig h t ta n w ith m aroon m arkings. N u tty fla v o r

In soups, stew s, salads, side dishes

FAVA/BROAD

Large, f la t oval. Tan. H erbaceous fla v o r w ith a firm te x tu re

P opular in M e d ite rra n e a n and M id d le

FLAGEOLETS

G ARBANZO /C HICKPEAS

dried legumes

Dried Legumes

E astern cuisines. In fa la fe l, soups, stew s, salads, side dishes

Sm all; kidney-shaped. Pale green to cream y w h ite . D e lica te fla v o r

S erved w ith lamb. Braised and pureed as a side dish

M edium , acorn-shaped. Beige. N u tty

P opular in m any e th n ic dishes. In couscous, hummus, soups, stew s,

fla v o r

salads, side dishes

GREAT NORTHERN

KIDNEY

LENTILS

Large; s lig h tly rounded. W hite. M ild ly d e lic a te fla v o r M edium ; kidne y-shap ed . Pink to m aroon. F u ll-b o d ie d fla v o r

Sm all; round. Brown; v a rie tie s include French (gra y-gree n e x te rio r w ith pale ye llo w in te rio r), red, yellow , s p lit w h ite .

In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes In c h ili con carne, re frie d beans, beans and rice, soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes Served w h ole or pureed as an a cco m pa nim e nt. In soups, stew s, salads, side dishes

P eppery fla v o r LIM A /B U T TE R

M edium ; s lig h tly f la t kidney-shape. W h ite to pale green. B u tte ry fla v o r

In succotash, soups, stew s, salads, side dishes

MUNG

Sm all; round. Green. Tender te x tu re and s lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r

S p ro u te d f o r bean spro uts. Ground in to flo u r to make cellophane noodles and bean th re a d s

N AVY/YAN KEE

Sm all; round. W hite. M ild fla v o r

In baked beans, chili, soups, salads

ch a p te r

10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N

217

Dried Legumes, continued NAME(S) PINTO/RED MEXICAN

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

M edium ; tu b u la r. Beige w ith brown

In chili, re frie d beans, stew s, soups

stre a k s RICE

H e irlo o m bean. Very sm all, plum p, capsule-shaped; resem bles rice grains. M ild, s lig h tly b itt e r fla v o r

SOYBEANS

Sm all; pea- to che rry-sha ped ; d ried ve rsio n is m ature bean. Red, yellow , green, brow n, black. Bland fla v o r

HEIRLOOM (CALYPSO, TONGUES OF FIRE, JACOB'S CATTLE, MADEIRA, AND OTHERS)

Range tre m e n d o u s ly in size and color; m any have s trip e s o r speckles

As s u b s titu te f o r rice. In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes

In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes

In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes, salads

peas BLACK-EYED

PIGEO N/G ANDULES

Sm all; kidney-shaped. Beige w ith black "eye." E a rth y fla v o r

In h o pp in’ John, soups, side dishes

Sm all, n e arly round. Beige w ith orange

P opular in A frica n , C aribbean, and Indian dishes

s p o ttin g . S w e et fla v o r s im ila r to lima beans SPLIT

Sm all, round. Green o r yellow . E arth y fla v o r

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

In s p lit pea soup, salads, side dishes

:

Nuts are the fruits of various

Considering that nuts are somewhat expensive, storing them properly is a must. They are susceptible to

underground in the root system of a leguminous plant.

turning rancid rather quickly. Nuts that have not been

Nuts are available in the shell, shelled and roasted,

roasted or shelled will keep longer. Shelled nuts may

blanched, sliced, slivered, halved, and chopped. Nuts

be stored in the freezer or refrigerator to allow for an

are also used to produce butters, such as the ever-popu-

extended shelf life.

lar peanut butter.

nuts and seeds

nuts and seeds

trees, with the exception of the peanut, which grows

ALM O N D S PEC AN S

PEAN U TS

H A ZELN U T S

M A C A D A M IA S

CASH EW S

PINE NUTS PU M PKIN SEEDS

PISTACHIOS

B LA C K S E S A M E S EED S

SU N FLO W ER SEEDS

WHITE S E S A M E SEEDS

PO PPYSEED S

c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N

2ig

Nuts and Seeds |

NAME(S)

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

T eardrop-shaped. Pale tan, w o od y shell.

Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce

S w e et fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in shell; shelled, blanched, slivered , sliced, s p lit, chopped, ground (m eal and flo u r)

alm ond paste, alm ond b u tte r, and alm ond oil. Used raw or to a s te d in baked goods, co n fe ctio n s, granola, cu rry dishes

nuts ALM O ND

BRAZIL

Large, tria n g u la r nut. D ark brow n, hard shell. W hite, rich nut

Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or to a s te d in baked goods

CASHEW

K idney-shaped. Tan nut. B u tte ry , s lig h tly sw e et fla v o r. O nly sold hulled (its skin con tain s oils s im ila r to th o se in poison ivy)

Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce cashew b u tte r. Used raw or to a s te d in baked goods, co n fe c tio n s

CHESTNUT

F a irly large, round to te a rd ro p -sh a p e d . Hard, glossy, da rk brow n shell; brown

Used cooked in sw e et and savory dishes. R oasted, boiled, pureed

in te rn a l skin. O ff-w h ite nut. S w e et fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole in shell; shelled canned in w a te r o r syrup, fro ze n , dried, or pureed H AZELN U T/FILBER T

Sm all, ne arly round. S m ooth, hard shell. Rich, sw e et, d e lic a te fla vo r. A vailable w h ole in shell; she lle d w hole, blanched, chopped

M AC AD AM IA

PEANUT

N e arly round; e x tre m e ly hard shell.

Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d

G o ld e n -ye llo w nut. Rich, s lig h tly sw eet, b u tte ry . A vaila ble shelled only

in baked goods, c o n fe c tio n s

Tan, p o d -lik e shell; pa pe ry brow n skin.

Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce p eanut b u tte r and peanut oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t o r savory

O ff-w h ite nut. D is tin c tiv e , sw e e t flavo r. A vaila ble w hole in shell or shelled, skinned

PECAN

Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d in sw e e t o r savory dishes, baked goods, salads, cereals

S m ooth, hard, thin , oval shell. Two-lobed, b ro w n -skin n e d nut; cre a m -co lo re d in te rio r. Rich, b u tte ry fla v o r. A vaila ble

dishes, baked goods, c o n fe ctio n s, salads Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d in sw e et o r savo ry dishes, baked goods, pie, co n fe c tio n s , salads

w h ole in shell; she lle d halved, chopped

220

PINE/PIG NO LI

Sm all, elo n g a te d kernel, ab o u t V 2 inch long. L ig h t tan. B u tte ry , m ild fla v o r

Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t and savo ry dishes, baked goods, salads, p e sto

PISTACHIO

Tan shell opens s lig h tly when nut is m ature ; shells so m e tim e s dyed red. Green nut. S ub tle, sw e et fla vo r. A vailable w h ole in shell, ro a ste d , usually salted. A lso a va ila ble shelled, chopped

Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d in sw e et and savory dishes

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

W ALNUT

Thick o r th in lig h t brow n shell. Brow nskinned nuts grow in gnarled segm ents;

E aten o u t o f hand. Used to produce w a ln u t oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t o r savory dishes. In baked

tender, oily. M ild flavo r. A vailable w hole in shell or shelled, halved, chopped; pickled

goods, co n fe c tio n s , salads

seeds POPPY

PUMPKIN

Very tin y , round b lu e -b la ck seeds. Crunchy te x tu re . Rich, s lig h tly m u sty fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground

As f illin g and to p p in g fo r baked

Sm all, f la t s o ft oval. C re am -colore d hulls. G reen ish -brow n, o ily in te rio r.

Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e et or savo ry dishes, baked goods. Popular in M exican cuisine

D e lica te fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r hulled, usually sa lte d FLAX

Tiny, oval seeds. Golden or dark brown. M ild ly n u tty. M ust be cooked b e fore eating

nuts and seeds

NAME(S)

goods. In salad dressings. Popular in cuisines o f ce n tra l Europe and the M id d le East

Used to produce linseed oil. In baked goods, h o t and cold cereal

SESAME

Tiny, fla t, oval seeds. Black, red, o r tan. Crunchy. S w eet, n u tty fla v o r

Used to produce o il and ta h in i (paste). Used raw o r to a s te d in sw eet and savo ry dishes, baked goods, c o n fe c tio n s , as garnish

SUNFLOW ER

Sm all, som e w h at fla t, te a rd ro p -s h a p e d seeds. W oody black and w h ite shell. L ig h t tan seed. M ild fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in shell or shelled, usually sa lte d

Used to make su n flo w e r oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in baked goods, salads

ch a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

221

dried spices

Whole spices will generally keep longer than ground

Spices are aromatics produced

primarily from the bark and seeds of plants. They have

spices. Dried spices are best stored in sealed containers

long been used as flavor additives for savory and sweet

in a cool, dry environment, away from extreme heat and

dishes. Dried spices are available whole, ground, or as

direct light. For best results, purchase whole spices and

spice blends.

grind them just prior to using.

EPAZOTE

GUMBO FILE TURM ERIC

M USTARD SEED

C E L E R Y SEED

JUNIPER BERRIES

CARAW AY SEED

CUMIN SEED

C LO VE S

CA RD A M O M PODS

STAR ANISE

222

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

FEN U G R E EK

CORIANDER

A LLS P IC E BERRIES

NUTMEG

|

NAME(S)

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

ALLSPICE

D ried, unripened, pe a-sized b e rry o f th e sm all evergreen p im ie n to tre e . Dark

In braises, fo rc e m e a ts , fish , de sserts

re d d ish -b ro w n . Tastes like cinnam on, nutm eg, and cloves. A vaila ble w hole or ground ANNATTO

Dried, sm all a ch io te seeds. Deep red. N e arly fla v o rle s s ; im p a rts y e llo w ish -o ra n g e c o lo r to fo o d s. A vaila ble w hole

P opular in L a tin A m erican and C aribbean cooking. In stew s, soups, sauces

A N AR DANA

D ried po m eg rana te seeds. M u te d , deep red. Sour fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole or ground

P opular in Indian cuisine as souring ag en t

ANISE

D ried rip e f r u it o f th e herb Pim pin ella anisum. L ig h t brow n. S im ila r fla v o r to fe n n e l

P opular in S o u th e a st Asian and M e d ite rra n e a n cooking. In savory

seeds; sw e et, spicy, lic o ric e ta s te and arom a

dishes, d e sse rts, baked goods, lique ur

D ried f r u it o f th e a ro m a tic caraw ay plan t, m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily . Sm all s trip e d

P opular in A u stria n , German, and

CARAWAY

cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds. D is tin c t fla v o r s im ila r to , b u t s w e e te r than, anise seeds

CARDAMOM

D ried, unripened fr u it; m em b er o f th e gin g e r fa m ily . Sm all round seeds in green, black, or

dried spices

Dried Spices

H ungarian cuisines. In rye bread, pork, cabbage, soups, stew s, some cheeses, baked goods, lique ur (kiim m e l) In curries, baked goods, pickles

bleached w h ite pod. S tro n g arom a; sw eet, spicy fla v o r. A vaila ble as w hole pod, seeds, o r ground CAYENNE

D ried, rip en ed f r u it pod o f Capsicum

In sauces, soups, m eat, fis h , p o u ltry

frutesce ns. B rig h t red. H ot; spicy. A vaila ble fre s h o r dried , w h ole o r ground CELERY

CINNAM ON

CLOVES

D ried seed o f a w ild ce le ry (lovage). S tro n g

In salads, coleslaw , salad dressings,

ve g e ta l fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground

soups, stew s, to m a to e s , baked goods

D ried in ne r bark o f a tro p ic a l tre e . R eddishbrow n. A vaila ble in s tic k s or g round

In baked goods, curries, dessert sauces, beverages, stews

D ried, unopened flo w e r o f th e tro p ic a l

In s to cks, sauces, braises, m arinades, cu rrie s, pickles, d e sse rts, baked goods

evergreen clove tre e . R e dd ish-b row n , spike shaped. S w eet, pung en t arom a and fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole or ground CORIANDER

Dried, rip e f r u it o f th e c ila n tro plan t. Small, round, ta n n is h -b ro w n seeds. Unique c itru s ­ like fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole

P opular in Asian, Indian, and M id dle E aste rn cuisines. In curries, ground fo rc e m e a ts , pickles, baked goods

CUMIN

D ried f r u it o f a p la n t in th e p a rsle y fa m ily . Sm all, cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds; th re e colors: amber, black, w h ite . N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole o rg ro u n d

P opular in Indian, M exican, and M id d le E astern cuisines. In curries, c h ili

c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

223

Dried Spices, continued NAME(S)

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

DILL

D ried f r u it o f th e herb A ne th u m graveolens,

P opular in n o rth e rn and Eastern

m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily. Sm all tan seeds. A vaila ble w hole

European cuisines. In pickles, sa u e rkra u t, cheeses, breads, salad dre ssin gs

EPAZOTE

An herb, Chenopodium a m b ro s io id e s. M edium green leaves. D is tin c tiv e fla v o r and

P opular in M exican and Caribbean cuisines; in chili, beans, soups, stew s

arom a. A vaila ble d rie d or fre s h FENNEL

D ried, rip e f r u it o f th e p e ren nia l Foeniculum vulgare. Sm all oval seeds, lig h t g re en ishbrow n. S w e et lic o ric e fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole or ground

FENUGREEK

Seed pods fro m an annual herb. Small, fla t, re ctan gu lar seeds; yellow ish -brow n. B itte r ta s te and pungent, hay-like, m aple-like aroma. Available w hole or ground

P opular seasoning blends o f M e d ite rra n e a n , Italian, Chinese, and S candinavian cuisines. In sausages, fish , sh e llfish , to m a to e s , baked goods, m arinades, liqueurs P opular in Indian cuisine. In curries, m eat, m arinades, p o u ltry , chutneys, spice blends, tea s

FILE POWDER

D ried leaves o f th e sassa fra s tre e . W oodsy fla vo r, s im ila r to ro o t beer. A vaila ble ground

P opular in C reole cuisine. In gum bo

GINGER

P la nt fro m tro p ic a l and s u b tro p ic a l regions. Tan, knobby, fib ro u s rhizom e. Sweet, p e p p e ry fla v o r; spicy arom a. A vailable fre sh , candied, pickled , o r ground

P opular in Asian and Indian cuisines. In curries, braises, baked goods

HORSERADISH

Large, w h ite ro o t. M em b er o f th e m u sta rd fa m ily . Sharp, in te nse fla v o r; pungent

In sauces, con dim ents, egg salad, p o ta to e s , be ets

arom a. A vaila ble d rie d o r fre s h JUNIPER BERRIES

Sm all, round d rie d b e rry o f ju n ip e r bush. D ark blue. S lig h tly b itte r; m u st crush to

In m arinades, braises, m ea ts/g am e, sa u e rkra u t, gin, liqueurs, teas

release fla v o r M em brane cove rin g o f th e nu tm e g seed. B rig h t red when fre sh ; ye llo w ish -o ra n g e when dry. S tro n g n u tm e g ta s te and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole or ground

In fo rc e m e a ts , pork, fish , spinach and o th e r veg etab le s, pickles, de sserts,

MUSTARD

Seeds fro m p la n ts w ith in th e cabbage fa m ily . Three type s: tra d itio n a l w h ite /y e llo w (sm aller; less pu ng en t fla v o r), brow n, and black (la rger; pungent, h o t fla v o r). A vaila ble w h ole or pow dered

In pickles, m eats, sauces, cheese, eggs, p re p a re d m ustard

NUTMEG

Large seed o f a f r u it th a t gro w s on the tro p ic a l evergreen M y r is t ic a fragans. Sm all egg shape; da rk brow n. S w eet, spicy fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w hole or ground

MACE

224

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

baked goods

In sauces, soups, veal, chicken, aspics, veg etab le s, d e sse rts, baked goods, eggnog

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

PAPRIKA

Dried, ground pods o f sw e et red peppers.

P opular in H ungarian cuisine. In braises, stew s, goulashes, sauces, garnishes

M any v a rie tie s. S up erior fro m Hungary; colors range fro m orange-red to deep red. M ild to intense fla v o r and aroma. Available ground; also Spanish sm oked (sw e et and hot) SAFFRON

D ried stig m a s o f flo w e rs o f Crocus so tivu s. T h re a d -like ; ye llow -ora nge . One ounce re q u ire s 1 4 ,0 0 0 stigm a s; expensive due to la b o r-in te n s iv e process. A vaila ble as th re a d s or pow dered

E ssen tial in paella, bo uilla ba isse, r is o tto M ilanese. In p o u ltry , seafood, rice p ila fs , sauces, soups, baked goods

STAR ANISE

Dried 8 - to 1 2 -p o in te d pod fro m Chinese evergreen, m em ber o f th e m agnolia fa m ily. S ta r shape; da rk brow n. Intense lico rice fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole o r g round

P opular in Asian dishes. Used s p a rin g ly in pork, duck, baked goods, tea s, liqueurs

TURMERIC

D ried ro o t o f th e tro p ic a l p la n t Curcuma longa, re la te d to ginger. Shape s im ila r to

P opular in Indian and M id d le Eastern cuisines. In curries, sauces, m ustard, pickles, rice

ginger; b rig h t yellow . Intense spicy fla vo r. A vaila ble pow dered

dried spices

NAME(S)

spice mixes CHILI POWDER

Blend o f ground spices w ith d rie d chiles

P opular in S o u th w e ste rn and M exican

as th e base. Can include cum in, cloves, coriander, g a rlic, and oregano. Degree o f

cuisines. In chili, c h ili con carne, soups, stew s, sauces

spicine ss changes w ith v a rie ty o f chile CHINESE FIVE-SPICE

CURRY POWDER

Blend o f g round spices; equal p a rts Szechwan pe pp ercorn s, s ta r anise, cinnam on, cloves, and fen nel. P ungent fla v o r and arom a Blend o f ground spices. Can include

P opular in Indian cuisine. In m eats,

cardam om , chiles, cinnam on, cloves,

sea food , veg e ta b le s, sauces, rice, soups

coriander, cum in, fe n n e l seed, fe n u g re e k, mace, nutm eg, red and black pepper, poppy and sesame seeds, s a ffro n , ta m a rin d , tu rm e ric . Degree o f spicine ss and co lo r change w ith v a rie ty GARAM M ASALA

P opular in Chinese cuisine. In m eats, fish , veg etab le s, m arinades, sauces

Blend o f d ry -ro a s te d spices; many v a ria tio n s . Can include black pepper,

P opular in Indian cuisine. In fis h , lamb, po rk, p o u ltry , c a u liflo w e r, p o ta to e s

cardam om , cinnam on, cloves, coriander, cum in, d rie d chiles, fen nel, mace, nutm eg. W arm fla v o r and arom a. W hole or ground QUATRE EPICES

French te rm m eaning "fo u r spices''; re fe rs to a v a rie ty o f ground spice m ix tu re s . Can in clud e pepper, allspice, ginger, cinnam on, cloves, nu tm eg

In stew s, soups, veg etab le s, pates, te rrin e s

c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N

225

salt and pepper

Long valued for their pres­

ervation qualities, both salt (sodium chloride) and

dry place. In humid weather, salt may cake together; to prevent this, mix a few grains of rice in with the salt.

pepper have been prized for centuries. However, with

Peppercorns are berries grown on trees in tropi­

refrigeration widely used today, they have become less

cal regions around the world. The type and flavor of

important as preservatives.

peppercorn depends on when it is harvested. Whole

Available in many forms, salt is a precious mineral

peppercorns will retain their flavor almost indefinitely,

that can be obtained from two different sources and

but they must be crushed or ground for the flavor to be

processes; it is either mined or evaporated from seawa­

released.

ter. Free of shelf life concerns, salt is best stored in a

Salt and Pepper DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

CURING

9 3 .7 5 % ta b le salt, 6.2 5% sodium n itra te . S om etim es it is dyed pink to d iffe re n tia te fro m o th e r salts

C uring m eats and fis h

KOSHER

Flaky, coarse grains. Iodine fre e . D eveloped f o r p re p a ra tio n o f kosher m eats. P re fe rre d over ta b le s a lt by m any

M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer.

Table s a lt f o r t if ie d w ith iodine, a n u trie n t s u p p le m e n t to re g u la te th y ro id . Can im p a rt b itt e r ta s te . M ay re a ct w ith c e rta in fo o d s

M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer. In

Food a d d itiv e , de rive d fro m g lu ta m ic

Used in m any processed fo o d s

TYPE

salt

IODIZED

MSG (M O NO SODIUM GLUTAMATE)

C ooking, canning, p ic k lin g

baked goods

acid. In te n s ifie s th e fla v o r o f savory fo o d s

PICKLING/CANNING

S im ila r to ta b le salt. C ontains no a d d itiv e s ; w ill clum p when exposed to m o istu re . P rovides pure ta s te and cle ar p ic k lin g /c a n n in g liq u id

P ickling, canning. S u b s titu te s fo r ta b le s a lt as fla v o r enhancer

ROCK

Very coarse grains. Inexpensive

Used in crank ice cream machines. P rovide s bed f o r sh e llfis h

_

226

SALT SU BSTITU TES/ LIGHT SALT

Some or all sodium ch lo rid e is replaced w ith p o ta ssiu m ch lo rid e

S o d iu m -re s tric te d cooking. S u b s titu te s f o r ta b le s a lt as fla v o r enhancer

SEA/BAY

Thin, fla k y layers. Produced fro m e va p o ra te d seaw ater. C ontains tra c e m inerals. Intense fla vo r. F ine -gra in and la rg e r c ry s ta ls available

F la vo r and te x tu re enhancer. Do n o t use f o r p icklin g , canning, or baking

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

;

in

P TYPE

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

SEASONED

Table s a lt com b in ed w ith o th e r fla v o r a d d itiv e s

F lavo r enhancer f o r s p e c ific p re p a ra tio n s

P 2 0 -

1 3 TABLE

Sodium ch lo rid e . Two v a rie tie s : iodin e fo r t if ie d and n o n fo rtifie d . C ontains

M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer

C D

13 13

added calcium s ilic a te f o r a n tic a k in g and d e x tro s e to s ta b iliz e

0> 1 -i

pep p er BLACK PEPPERCORNS

D ried, dark, sh rive le d be rry. Picked un rip e and allow ed to dry. S trong,

M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer. Curing, p icklin g , sach et d'epices

p e p p e ry fla v o r. M o s t com m on o f all peppers. Two v a rie tie s : T e llic h e rry and Lam pong. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries, cracked, o r ground GREEN PEPPERCORNS

S o ft, un ripened b e rry. M ild , s lig h tly b itin g fla v o r. S im ila r to capers in appearance. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d , or packed in vin e g a r o r brine

Seasoning, fla v o r enhancer

PINK PEPPERCORNS

D ried b e rry o f th e Baies rose plan t. Rose colore d. Pungent; s lig h tly sw eet. Expensive. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d or packed in brine o r w a te r

Seasoning m ea t and fis h dishes, sauces

SZECHW AN

D ried b e rry o f th e p ric k ly ash tre e . R esem bles black p e pp ercorn s; deep red; c on tain s a sm all seed. H ot, spicy fla vo r.

P opular in th e cuisines o f China's Szechwan and Hunan provinces

PEPPERCORNS

A vaila ble w h ole o r pow dered W HITE PEPPERCORNS

Ripened p e p p e rco rn w ith e x te rio r skin rem oved. Beige. M ild fla v o r, flo w e ry arom a. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries,

S easoning lig h t-c o lo re d sauces and fo o d s

cracked, o r ground

c h a p te r i o

» DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

227

sweeteners

Sugar is responsible for the caramelization process,

Once a symbol of wealth and pros­

perity, sugar is now widely used in all facets of the pro­

balancing the acidity in foods, and contributing to the

fessional kitchen. Sugar is extracted from plant sources

appearance, flavor, and viscosity of glazes, sauces, and

(sugar beets and sugarcane) and refined into the desired

marinades. In the bakeshop, sugar adds sweetness,

form. Most varieties of syrup, such as maple, corn,

retains moisture, prolongs freshness/shelf life, aids in

molasses, and honey, are derived from plants as well.

the creaming process, and imparts color and flavor to

The flavor intensity of sweeteners typically corresponds

crusts. Selecting the proper sweetener will help deter­

with the color— the darker the sugar or syrup, the more

mine the desired end product.

concentrated the flavor.

H O N EY

M A P LE SU G A R

TURBINADO

228

LIGHT BROWN SU G A R

CO A RSE S U G A R

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

LIGHT CORN S Y R U P

DARK BROWN SU G AR

SU G A R CU BES

TYPE

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

Sugar s u b s titu te s . N o n n u tritiv e values. V a rie tie s include (b u t n o t lim ite d to):

Table use. N o t recom m ended f o r all b a kin g and coo kin g uses

sugar ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS

sw eeteners

Sweeteners

asp artam e , ace sulfa m e-k, saccharin, stevia , and sucralose BROWN

R efined, g ra n u la te d sugar w ith some im p u ritie s rem a ining o r m olasses added. S om ew hat m o ist. Two v a ria tio n s : lig h t and dark; dark brow n has m ore in te nse (m olasses) fla v o r

CONFECTIONERS'/ P O W D E R E D /lO X

Pure re fin e d sugar. W hite. Fine powder. M in im a l am o un t o f c o rn s ta rc h added to p re ve n t clu m pin g

G RANU LATED/W H ITE

Pure re fin e d cane or b e e t sugar. W hite. G enerally sm all granules; ava ila ble in va rio u s sizes: coarse (c ry s ta l/ d e co ra tin g ), s u p e rfin e , cubes, ta b le ts

M APLE

M aple sap boile d u n til near e va p o ra tio n . Pale tan. Fine powder. M uch s w e e te r

PILONCILLO

In baked goods, p a stry, sauces, savo ry dishes

In baked goods, p a stry, icings, c o n fe c tio n s . As d e c o ra tiv e garnish

In baked goods, p a stry, sauces, savo ry dishes

In baked goods and savory dishes.

than g ra n u la te d sugar

As sw e e t a d d itiv e to cereals, yog urt, c o ffe e , tea

U n re fin e d , hard com p resse d sugar fro m M exico. M edium to dark brow n. Cone

S u b s titu te f o r da rk brow n sugar. In savo ry dishes

shaped; 3/t-o u n c e to 9-ounce cones. Two v a rie tie s : bianco (lig h te r) and oscuro (darker) JAG GERY/PALM

RAW

U n re fin e d ; fro m palm tre e sap or sugarcane. Dark. Coarse grains.

P opular in Indian cuisine. As spread f o r breads. In baked goods,

A vaila ble in several fo rm s ; tw o m o st popular: s o ft/s p re a d a b le and solid

c o n fe c tio n s

P u rifie d sugarcane residue. Several v a rie tie s : D em erara (w h ite sugar c ry s ta ls w ith th e added m olasses; coarse grains), B arb a d o s/m u sco va d o

Coarse gra in s are b e st su ite d fo r d e c o ra tin g and as a sw e et a d d itive . F in e -te x tu re d grains used as s u b s titu te f o r lig h t brow n sugar

(m oist, dark, fin e -te x tu re grains), tu rb in a d o (steam -clea ned , lig h t brown, coarse grains) SUGARCANE

Source o f sugar; m em ber o f th e grass fa m ily. M ade ed ib le by bo iling . A vaila ble in sta lks. Less sw e e t tha n g ra n u la te d sugar

As snack, garnish

c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

229

Sweeteners, continued TYPE

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

syrup CORN

L iq u e fie d sugar c re a te d by pro cessing

In baked goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s,

co rn sta rch . Three v a rie tie s : lig h t (c la rifie d to rem ove color), dark (co lo r added, caram el fla v o r), and high

spreads

fru c to s e . Less sw e e t than g ra n u la te d sugar; th e d a rke r th e syrup, the m ore in te nse th e fla v o r. In h ib its c ry s ta lliz a tio n FLAVORED

HONEY

In baked goods, p a stry, savory dishes,

Sugar o r o th e r syrup w ith added fla v o rin g . F lavo r v a rie tie s include fr u it, nut, spice, cho colate, caram el

beverages

Thick, sw e e t liq u id pro du ced by bees fro m flo w e r nectar. Pale ye llo w to da rk brow n. F lavor in te n s ifie s as co lo r

beverages, spreads

In baked goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes,

deepens. C ountless v a rie tie s . Named acco rd in g to s p e c ific flo w e r. A vaila ble in com b, ch u n k-style , liquid, w h ipp ed MAPLE

B oile d m aple tre e sap. G olden brown. Unique fla v o r. A vaila ble in grades “ A" or "B.” A is m ore re fin e d than B

As a cco m pa nim e nt to pancakes, w a ffle s , French to a s t. In baked goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s, savory dishes

MOLASSES

L iq u id b y -p ro d u c t o f sugar re fin in g . Three v a rie tie s : lig h t ( f ir s t boil), dark

A cco m p a n im e n t to pancakes, w a ffle s , and French to a s t. In baked goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes

(second boil), and b la c k s tra p (th ird boil, d a rk e s t and th ic k e s t). F lavo r and arom a in te n s ifie s as co lo r deepens

230

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

sweeteners

sweeteners, continued

PILONCILLO S U G A R C A N E STICKS

PAL M S U G A R

c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

231

fats and oils

The uses for fats and oils in the

While they are similar in many ways, fat is solid at

professional kitchen or bakeshop are innumerable. Fat

room temperature, while oil is liquid. Oils are produced

provides a rich flavor, silky mouthfeel and texture, and

by pressing a high-oil food, such as olives, nuts, corn, or

pleasing aroma. It also performs a multitude of chemi­

soybeans. The liquid is then filtered, clarified, or hydro­

cal functions such as tenderizing, leavening, aiding in

genated to produce an oil or fat (shortening).

moisture retention, and creating flaky/crumbly textures. Fats and oils act as insulators for food, transfer heat to

The smoke point of a fat or oil greatly determines its appropriate use. For example, the higher the smoke

food, prevent sticking, emulsify or thicken sauces, and

point, the better suited it is for frying because it can

create crisp textures when used for frying.

withstand higher heat ranges.

Fats and Oils TYPE

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

S olid f a t churned fro m m ilk; a m inim um o f 8 0 % m ilk fa t, 2 0 % w a te r and m ilk solids. Q u a lity based on fla vo r, body, te x tu re , color,

C ooking, baking. In p a stry, sauces, com pound b u tte rs (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C )

fats BUTTER,W HOLE

and s a lt co n te n t. Grades: AA (fin e s t), A, B, C BUTTER, C LA R IFIED / DRAW N/GHEE FRYING FATS

P u rifie d b u tte rfa t. U n salte d b u tte r w ith m ilk so lid s rem oved. Longer s h e lf life than b u tte r.

In roux, w arm b u tte r sauces, Indian cooking, savory dishes

High sm oke p o in t

(Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 °F /2 5 2 °C )

L iq u id or m allea ble a t room te m p e ra tu re . Blended o ils or sho rte n in g s; based on

Deep fry in g (Sm oke p o in t varies)

pro cesse d corn or pe anut oils. High sm oke p o in t; long f r y life LARD

SHORTENING

S olid. R endered p o rk fa t. M ild fla v o r if processed. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. M o d e ra te sm oke p o in t S olid. M ade fro m v e g e ta b le oils, may con tain anim al fa ts ; liq u id o il ch e m ica lly tra n s fo rm e d th ro u g h h yd rog ena tion . F lavorless. Low sm oke p o in t

F rying, baking, p a s try (Sm oke p o in t 3 7 0 °F /1 8 8 °C )

Deep fry in g , baking (Sm oke p o in t 3 6 0 °F /1 8 2 °C )

oils CANOLA/RAPESEED

COCONUT

Ligh t. E x tra c te d fro m rapeseeds; s im ila r to s a fflo w e r oil. G old en -colo red . Low in s a tu ra te d fa t. N e u tra l fla v o r. F a irly high to very high sm oke p o in t

C ooking. In salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 4 0 0 °F /2 0 4 °C )

Heavy. E x tra c te d fro m d rie d coco nu t m eat.

In co m m e rcia l packaged goods, blended oils, sh o rte n in g s (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C )

N e arly co lo rle ss. N e u tra l fla v o r when d e od orize d. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. High sm oke p o in t CORN

232

R e fine d oil. M edium ye llo w color. O dorless; m ild fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

Deep fry in g . In com m e rcial salad d ressings, m argarine (Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )

|

TYPE

DESCRIPTION

COMMON CULINARY USES

COTTONSEED

Fleavy. E x tra c te d fro m c o tto n p la n t seeds. Very lig h t to pale yellow . N e u tra l fla vo r. M o d e ra te ly high sm oke p o in t

C om bined w ith o th e r oils to produce ve g e ta b le and coo kin g oils, salad dressings, m argarine, com m e rcial p ro d u c ts (Sm oke p o in t 4 2 0 °F /2 1 6 °C )

GRAPESEED

OLIVE

Lig h t. Pale color. N e u tra l fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t

S auteing, fry in g . In salad dressings

Varies in viscosity. Pale yellow to deep green (depending on typ e o f olive and processing). Q uality based on a cid ity level, the fin e s t being e xtra-virgin. Two d is tin c t classes: virgin and

Comm on to M e d ite rra n e a n cuisines. Low - to h ig h -h e a t cooking, depending on ty p e o f processing. In m arinades, salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 3 7 5 ° -4 6 5 ° F /1 9 1 024 1°C )

blended. The fla v o r o f olive oil varies g re a tly depending on region: can range fro m m ild to herbaceous to grassy to peppery. Low to high smoke point OIL SPRAYS

L ig h t v e g e ta b le oils. Blended. Packaged in pum p o r ae roso l sprays. V a rie tie s include

(Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 °F /2 5 2 °C )

L ig h t co a tin g f o r pans and g rid d le s

ve g e ta b le , o live oil, and b u tte r-fla v o re d PEANUT

Ligh t. R efined. Clear to pale yellow . S u b tle s c e n t/fla v o r; le s s -re fin e d v a rie tie s have s tro n g e r s c e n t/fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t

Deep fry in g , s tir-fry in g . In com m e rcia l salad dressings, m argarine, s h o rte n in g (Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )

SAFFLOW ER

SALAD

L ig h t. R efined. E x tra c te d fro m s a fflo w e r seeds. C olorless. F lavorless. Very high sm oke p o in t Blended v e g e ta b le oils. S u b tle fla v o r

Deep fry in g . In salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 5 1 0 °F /2 6 6 °C )

In salad dressings, m ayonnaise (Sm oke p o in t varies)

SESAME

Two typ e s: one is lig h t and m ild w ith n u tty fla v o r, th e o th e r is da rk w ith s tro n g e r fla v o r and arom a. E x tra c te d fro m sesam e seeds. Low to m o d e ra te sm oke p o in t, de pe nd ing on ty p e

Frying, sauteing. In salad dressings, fla v o r a d d itiv e (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 ° -4 1 0 ° F / 1 7 7 °-2 1 0 °C )

SOYBEAN

Heavy. L ig h t yellow . Pronounced fla v o r and arom a. High sm oke p o in t

Com m on to Chinese cuisine. S tirfry in g . In com m e rcial m argarine, s h o rte n in g (Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )

SUNFLOW ER

L ig h t. E x tra c te d fro m s u n flo w e r seeds. Pale yellow . S u b tle fla v o r. Low in s a tu ra te d fa t. M e d iu m -lo w sm oke p o in t

A ll-p u rp o s e cooking. In salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 4 4 0 °F /2 2 7 °C )

VEGETABLE

L ig h t re fin e d blended ve g e ta b le oils. M ild fla v o r and arom a. High sm oke p o in t

A ll-p u rp o s e cooking, deep fry in g , baking (Sm oke p o in t varies)

W ALNUT

Lig h t. U n re fin e d . Pale to m edium yellow . D e lica te n u tty fla v o r and arom a. H ighly pe rish able; re frig e ra te to p re v e n t ra n c id ity

F lavo r a d d itiv e in salad dressings, m ea t dishes, pasta, de sserts. B est used uncooked (Sm oke p o in t 3 2 0 °F /1 6 0 °C )

c h a p te r i o

» DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

miscellaneous dry goods CHOCOLATE

EXTRACTS

C hocolate is produced fro m cocoa beans, which gro w in

The ch e f uses a v a rie ty o f fla v o rin g e x tra c ts f o r coo k­

a pod on th e cacao tre e . For th e an cie nt A ztecs, cocoa

ing and baking. Herbs, spices, nuts, and fr u its are used

beans served n o t only to produce d rin ks and as a com ­

to pre pa re e xtra c ts , w hich are alcohol based. Common

po nent o f various sauces, b u t also as currency. Today,

fla v o rs include vanilla, lemon, m int, and alm ond. E xtra cts

cho colate is usually fo u n d in a v a rie ty o f sw eets, in clu d ­

can lose th e ir p o te n cy if th e y are allow ed to come in

ing cakes, candies, and o th e r de sserts, although it is also

c o n ta c t w ith air, heat, o r light. To preserve flavo r, s to re

used in savory e n tre e s such as m ole poblano, a tu rk e y

e x tra c ts in tig h tly capped dark ja rs or b o ttle s away fro m

dish o f M exican origin.

heat or d ire c t light.

The cho colate e x tra c tio n process is le ng th y and has undergone a g re a t deal o f re fin e m e n t since th e days o f the A ztecs. The f ir s t stage involves crushing the kernels in to a paste; a t th is p o in t it is c o m p le te ly unsw eetened and is called ch o co la te liquor. The liq u o r is then fu rth e r ground to give it a sm oother, fin e r te x tu re , and s w e e te n ­ ers and o th e r in g re d ie n ts m ay be added. The liq u o r may be pressed, causing cocoa b u tte r to be fo rc e d out. The cocoa solids th a t are le ft are ground in to cocoa powder. Cocoa b u tte r may be com bined w ith cho colate liq u o r to make e a tin g chocolate, o r it may be fla v o re d and s w e e t­ ened to make w h ite chocolate. Cocoa b u tte r also has num erous p h arm a ceutica l and co sm e tic uses. C hocolate should be sto re d , w e ll w rapped, in a cool, dry, v e n tila te d area. U nder m o st co n d itio n s, it should n o t be re frig e ra te d , since th is could cause m o istu re to condense on th e surface. S om e tim es s to re d cho colate develops a w h ite "b loo m '’; th e bloom m ere ly in dica tes th a t som e o f th e cocoa b u tte r has m e lte d and then re ­ c ry s ta lliz e d on th e surface. C hocolate w ith a bloom can s till be used safely. Cocoa pow der should be s to re d in tig h tly sealed con tain ers in a d ry place. It w ill keep a l­ m o st in d e fin ite ly .

LEAVENERS Leaveners are used to give fo o d s a light, airy te x tu re . Chem ical leaveners, such as baking soda (sodium b ic a r­ bonate) and baking pow der (a com b in a tio n o f baking soda, cream o f ta rta r, and corn sta rch), w o rk rapidly. Baking p ow der is usually double acting, w hich means th a t one re a ctio n happens in th e presence o f m oistu re, when liquids are added to dry in g re d ie n ts, and a second occurs in th e presence o f heat, as th e ite m bakes in the oven. Yeast leavens fo o d s by th e process o f fe rm e n ta tio n , which produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. The gas is tra p p e d by th e dough, c re a tin g a num ber o f sm all p o ck­ ets, and th e alcohol burns o f f durin g baking. Chem ical leaveners should be ke p t p e rfe c tly dry. D ried yea st can be held fo r exte nde d periods, b u t fresh ye a st has a s h o rt s h e lf life ; it w ill la st only a fe w weeks under re frig e ra tio n .

THICKENERS T hickeners are used to give liquid a ce rta in am ount o f v isco sity. The process o f fo rm in g an em ulsion is one way

VINEGARS AND CONDIMENTS V inegars and m o st con dim ents are used to in tro d u ce sharp, piquant, sw eet, or h o t fla v o rs in to fo o d s. They may be used as an in g re d ie n t o r served on th e side, to

to th icke n a liquid, as is th e process o f red uctio n. In ad­ d itio n , various th ic k e n in g in g re d ie n ts can be used. These include a rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, file powder, and gelatin, to name a few.

be added acco rding to a guest's ta s te . A w e ll-s to c k e d kitche n should include a fu ll range o f vinegars, m ustards, relishes, pickles, olives, jam s, and o th e r condim ents. In general, vinegars and con dim ents should be s to re d in the same m anner as oils and shortenings.

234

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

W INES, CORDIALS, AND LIQUEURS

A good cup o f c o ffe e o r te a is o fte n th e key to a re s­

A general rule o f th u m b f o r s e le c tin g wines, cordials, and

tau ra nt's re p u ta tio n . The ch e f should id e n tify brands

lique urs f o r use in co o kin g and baking is: If it is n o t s u it­

and blends th a t b e s t serve th e e sta b lish m e n t's sp e c ific

able f o r drinkin g, it is n o t su ita b le fo r cooking.

needs. W hereas som e o p e ra tio n s p re fe r to se le ct whole

Brandies and cognacs, Champagne, d ry red and

c o ffe e beans, o th e rs m ay be b e tte r served by buying

w h ite wines, p o rt, Sauternes, sherry, s to u ts , ales, beers,

preground, p o rtio n e d , vacuum -packed co ffe e . M any

and sw e e t and d ry v e rm o u th are com m only used in the

re s ta u ra n ts serve brew ed d e c a ffe in a te d co ffe e , and

kitch e n . For baking purposes, th e ch e f should keep

som e o ffe r espresso and cappuccino, b o th reg ular and

on hand bourbon, crem e de cassis, f r u it brandies, gin,

d e ca ffe in a te d . Teas com e in m any v a rie tie s , includ in g black tea,

Kahlua, rum , and scotch. Purchase w ines and cordials th a t are a ffo rd a b ly p riced and o f good q u a lity. Table

green tea, and herbal teas. M o s t are blends and are

w ines (Burgundies, Chablis, and Chardonnays, fo r ex­

available in sin g le -se rvin g bags or in loose fo rm .

am ple) lose th e ir fla v o r and becom e acidic once opened,

A lth o u g h c o ffe e and te a g e n e ra lly keep welt, the y

e sp e cia lly when s u b je cte d to heat, lig h t, and air. To

w ill lose a lo t o f fla v o r i f s to re d to o long o r under im ­

pre serve fla vo r, keep th e m in closed b o ttle s or b o ttle s

p ro p e r c o n d itio n s. W hole beans o r opened co n ta in e rs o f

f it t e d w ith po u rin g spouts, and re frig e ra te when not

ground c o ffe e should be placed in an a irtig h t co n ta in e r

needed. F o rtifie d w ines (M adeiras, sherries, and po rts,

and used as soon as po ssib le to keep fla v o r and nuances

f o r exam ple) are m ore sta b le than ta b le wines and can

a t th e ir peak; te a s should be sto re d in cool, dry areas,

be held in d ry storag e. The same also applies to cordials,

away fro m lig h t and m oistu re.

cognacs, and liqueurs.

miscellaneous dry good

COFFEE, TEA, AND OTHER BEVERAGES

Prepared m ixes (pow dered f r u it d rin ks o r cocoa mixes, f o r exam ple) also should be k e p t m o is tu re -fre e . Frozen ju ice s and o th e r beverages should rem ain s o lid ly fro ze n u n til needed. Canned ju ice s should be ke p t in dry storage. R em em ber to ro ta te stock, and check all cans, boxes, and o th e r co n ta in e rs f o r leaks, bulges, rust, or mold.

Chapter 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

235

;auces, and soups PART 3

1

r . ................. .............

gif :

?

. ■

,

*.

.

••

-

.

• ,

• •

i

I I Ii

tft' . 1 -

:

: '. • ••

:

,

i

-• >

.'S

&

illlf

mm

, ..

____________________

mise e

Good cooking is the result ofjggrefully developing the best possible flavor and most perfect texture in each dish. Basic flavoring and aromatic combinations constitute the flavor base; thickeners contribute a rich, smooth mouthfeel; end liaisons lend body to stocks, sauces, and soups.

B oU Q. UE T GARNI, S A C H E T D'EPICES, A N D OIGNON B R U L E A R E T H R E E BASIC AR OM A TI C P R EP AR AT IO NS C A L L E D F O R A G A I N A N D A G A I N IN R E C I P E S . T H E S E C O M B I N A T I O N S O F A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S , H E R B S , A N D S P I C E S A R E M E A N T TO E N H A N C E A N D S U P P O R T T H E F L A V O R S O F A D I S H . T H E Y A D D F L A V O R TO S T O C K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S B Y G E N T L Y I N F U S I N G T H E LI Q. UI D W I T H T H E I R A R O M A .

bouquets, sachets and oignon brule A ll th re e o f the se a ro m a tic p re p a ra tio n s are added durin g the cooking process. Bouquets and sachets are ty p ic a lly tie d to g e th e r fo r easy rem oval durin g cooking, a fte r th e desired am ount o f fla v o r has been e xtra cte d , even b e fo re all o f th e o th e r in g re d ie n ts in a dish are fin ish e d cooking. A bo uq ue t garni is made up o f fre s h herbs and veg etab le s tie d in to a bundle. If leek is used to w rap the o th e r bouq ue t garni ingre die nts, it m ust be th o ro u g h ly rinsed o f d ir t firs t. Cut a piece o f s trin g long enough to leave a ta il to tie th e bouq ue t to th e p o t handle. This makes it easy to pull o u t th e bouquet when it is tim e to rem ove it. A sachet contains in g re d ie n ts such as peppercorns, o th e r spices, and herbs. The sea­ sonings are o fte n tie d up in a cheesecloth bag f o r recipes th a t are n o t stra in e d a fte r c oo k­ ing. A "loose" sachet, f o r w hich th e sachet in g re d ie n ts are added d ire c tly to a recipe w ith ­ o u t f ir s t being tie d , may be used when th e liquid w ill be stra in e d a fte r the dish has fin ish e d cooking. A stan dard bouq ue t o r sachet can be m o d ifie d a little (add some c a rro t or a g a rlic clove) o r a lo t (use cardam om , ginger, o r cinnam on) to produce d iffe re n t e ffe c ts . A sachet in fu ses a liquid w ith flavo r, in the same w ay th a t a tea bag is used to make a cup o f tea. For a sm all batch o f less than a gallon, add the sachet o r bouq ue t in the la st fifte e n to th ir ty m inutes. For batches o f several gallons or m ore, add it ab ou t one hour b e fo re the end o f th e cooking tim e . C onsult s p e c ific recipes and fo rm u la s fo r guidance. When you add a bouquet or sachet to a s to ck or soup, ta s te the dish b e fo re and a fte r adding it to learn its e ffe c t on th e dish's fla v o r p ro file . If the a ro m a tics have been com bined fo llo w in g a basic fo rm u la and sim m ered long enough to infuse the dish w ith th e ir aroma, th e dish should be fla v o re d — b u t n o t ove rw h elm e d— by them . Oignon brule ("b urnt onion") and oignon pique ("pricked" or "stud de d onion") are fla v o r­ ing in g re d ie n ts based on whole, halved, o r q u a rte re d onions. An oignon brule is made by peeling and halving an onion and cha rring th e cu t faces in a dry s k ille t. It is used in some stocks and consom m es to provide golden brow n color. An oignon pique is prepared by s tu d ­ ding an onion w ith a fe w w hole cloves and a bay leaf. It is used to fla v o r becham el sauce and some soups.

240

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S

/

Standard Bouquet Garni

Standard Sachet d'Epices

(1 bouquet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid)

(1 sachet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid)

1 sprig thyme

3 or 4 parsley stems

3 or 4 parsley stems

1 sprig thyme or 1 ts p /2 g dried

1 bay leaf

1 bay leaf

2 or 3 leek leaves and/or 1 celery stalk, cut in half lengthwise

1 ts p /2 g cracked peppercorns 1 garlic clove (optional)

1 carrot, cut in half lengthwise (optional) 1 parsnip, cut in half lengthwise (optional)

1B»

Ingredients fo r a standard bouquet garni

The finished bouquet garni

Ingredients fo r a standard sachet d’epices

The finished sachet d'epices

ch a p te r 11 » M IS E EN PL A C E FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS

bouquets, sachets, and oignon brule

BOUQUET GARNI AND SACHET D’ EPICES

241

M ir e p o ix

is

th e

F rench

n a m e

fo r

a

c o m b in a t io n

of

o n io n s

, c a r r o t s , a n d c e l e r y , b u t it is

NO T T H E O N L Y S U C H C O M B IN A T IO N , E V E N W IT H I N T H E F R E N C H C U L I N A R Y R E P E R T O IR E . M l R E P O I X A N D S I M I L A R A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E C O M B I N A T I O N S A R E I N T E N D E D TO P R O V I D E A S U B T L E B U T P L E A S I N G BA CK G R O U N D FLA VO R , S U P P O R T IN G A N D IM P R O V IN G T H E FL A V O R OF TH E F IN IS H E D D ISH .

mirepoix Onions, ca rro ts, celery (both pascal and celeriac), leeks, parsnips, garlic, to m a to e s, shal­ lots, m ushroom s, peppers, and ging er are am ong th e in g re d ie n ts com m only re fe rre d to as arom atics. They may be used in various com binations, as d ic ta te d by th e cuisine and the dish its e lf. Even when used in re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts, a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts make a sig­ n ific a n t c o n trib u tio n to a dish. For example, 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f m ire p o ix is enough to fla v o r 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L o f s tock, soup, sauce, stew, braise, o r m arinade. To g e t the b e st fla v o r fro m m ire p o ix and s im ila r pre pa ration s, th o ro u g h ly rinse and trim all th e veg etab le s f ir s t. Onion skin w ill give a sim m e ring liquid an orange o r ye llo w tin t, which may not be desirable, so de te rm in e w h e th e r to peel onions. Scrubbing, b u t n o t pe e l­ ing, c a rro ts and parsnips can cu t down on the prep tim e. N evertheless, some chefs peel all vegetables on the prem ise th a t fla v o r is e xtra cte d in to th e dish m ore easily; oth ers peel the m only when th e y are not strain ed o u t o f the fin is h e d dish. W heth er or n o t th e vegetables are peeled, cut them in to pieces o f a re la tiv e ly un ifo rm size, w ith th e dim ensions m atched to th e cooking tim e o f th e dish. The s h o rte r the sim m ering tim e , th e sm aller and th in n e r the cut; th e longer the tim e , th e larger and th ic k e r th e cut. Make larger cuts fo r lo ng -sim m erin g dishes such as p o t ro a sts or brown veal stock. Cut m ire p o ix sm all or slice it f o r use in uncooked marinades, pan gravies, and dishes th a t sim m er up to th re e hours. Slice m ire p o ix ve ry fin e f o r fu m e ts and stocks th a t sim m er less than one hour. M ire p o ix w ill add a d is tin c t arom a to a dish, even if the cut-up vegetables are sim p ly added to the p o t as it sim m ers. Sweating, sm othe rin g, roa sting , or brow ning the m in fa t s ig n ific a n tly changes th e ir flavo r. S ta rt by coo k­ ing onions in ju s t enough fa t to coa t th e b o tto m o f the pan and vegetables, then add th e ca rro ts, and fin a lly the celery. W hite stocks o r cream soups ge ne rally call fo r cooking the m ire p o ix over low heat in f a t u n til it s ta rts to give o f f some o f its own natural m oistu re, known as sweating. If th e p o t is covered as th e a ro m a tics sweat, th e tech niq ue is sm o th e r­ ing. Pingage is a tech niq ue derived fro m th e French pincer, "to s tiffe n or pinch”; th is te rm describes w h at happens to the to m a to e s as th e y cook in h o t fa t. For pingage, to m a to STANDARD MIR EPOIX

WHITE MIR EPOIX

paste or o th e r to m a to p ro d u c t is added to the already brow ned m ire p o ix and cooked u n til it tu rn s reddish brown.

242

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

basic formula

Standard Mirepoix

Asian Aromatics

Matignon

(1 lb /4 5 4 g)

(1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g)

(1 3 o z /3 6 9 g )

8 oz/227 g onion

8 oz/227 g garlic

3 oz/85 g ham

4 oz/113 g carrot

8 oz/227 g ginger

4 oz/113 g onion

4 oz/113 g celery

4 oz/113 g green onion

4 oz/113 g carrot

Note: The ratio is two parts onion to one p a rt celery to one p a rt carrot.

Note: The ra tio is two parts ginger to two parts garlic to one p a rt green onion.

2 oz/57 g celery 1 sprig thyme

White Mirepoix (1 lb /4 5 4 g)

4 oz/113 g onion

m irepoix

B

1 bay leaf

Cajun Trinity (1 lb /4 5 4 g)

8 oz/227 g onion 4 oz/113 g celery or celeriac 4 oz/113 g celery 4 oz/113 g parsnip 4 oz/113 g bell pepper 4 oz/113 g leek Note: The ratio is equal parts onion, celery, parsnip, and leek.

Note: The ratio is two parts onion to one p a rt celery to one p a rt bell pepper.

method at-a-glance 1. Brown the onions and carrots. 2 . Add the celery and cook

until soft. 3. For pin n

2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice ^

V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter 4o z/11 3g sm a ll-d ic eg re en p e p p ers 2 lb /9 0 7 g medium-dice Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243)

4 o z /1 13 g small-dice red peppers

1 Scotch bonnet, seeded, minced

3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, medium dice

9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246)

1

2 q t/1 .9 2 L w a te r 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Fish Stock (page 255) lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes 1

2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste 2

bay leaves

1

^

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonstarchy potatoes, peeled, small dice 1

bay leaf

16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot 2

tbsp / 2

0

g salt, or as needed

2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper, as needed

1 tb sp /3 g chopped fresh thyme

2 ts p /1 0 mL hot sauce

Salt, as needed

2 ts p /1 0 mL Worcestershire sauce

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medi1 . Combine the conch with the lemon juice in a large nonreactive bowl and marinate for 30 minutes.

2 . Melt the butter in a large sauce pot over medium heat. Add the mirepoix and sweat until the vegetables are tender, about 7 minutes. Add the Scotch bonnet and potatoes and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer.

3 . Add the water, stock, marinated conch, tomato products, bay leaves, and thyme and simmer at

um-low heat until the lean portions of salt pork are slightly crisp, about 6 minutes.

2 . Add the onions, celery, and peppers and sweat until softened, 5 to 7 minutes.

3 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Whisk in the blond roux, working out any lumps. Simmer until lightly thickened.

4 . Puree half of the corn and whisk it into the soup.

i85°F/85°C until the potatoes are very tender and

Add the potatoes, the remaining whole corn, and the

the soup is well flavored, about 25 minutes.

bay leaf, and simmer at i 85°F/85°C until the corn

4 . Season with salt. Pepper may not be needed because Scotch bonnet peppers are extremely hot. Remove

and potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

5 . Add the cream and stir to combine. Heat just until

and discard the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or

it begins to simmer, about 10 minutes. Remove and

cups.

discard the bay leaf. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service. 6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a sim­ mer. Season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce and serve in heated bowls or cups.

ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S

341

Pacific Seafood Chowder Makes l gal/3.84 L

4 . Mix the cornstarch with some water to the consis­ tency of heavy cream and add this to the soup. Add enough slurry to produce a light body. Cook until the soup thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove the sachet. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly

16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL dry white wine 8

f I o z/2 4 0 mL water

1 Sachet d’Epices (see page 2 4 1) containing B cloves crushed garlic; 1 o z/2 8 g peeled ginger; 4 stalks lemongrass, cut into 1-in / 3-cm pieces; and 5 kaffir lime leaves

cooled and refrigerated for later service.

5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Add the diced fish and the shrimp and cook until the seafood is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add the roasted chayote and heat through. 6 . Add the lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt.

2 q t/1 .9 2 L clam juice I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L coconut milk 8

fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot

2 o z/5 7 g Red Curry Paste (page 370) 1

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, medium-diced taro root

1

chayote, pitted and cut into medium dice

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1

o z/2 8 g cornstarch

1 lb /4 5 4 g firm-fleshed fish, such as sea bass, skinned, cut into medium dice 1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (2 1 /2 6 count), peeled, deveined, cut into medium dice Juice of 1 lemon GARNISH 4 fI o z/1 4 g basil leaves, chiffonade

1 . In a large nonreactive pot, combine the wine, water, and sachet and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the clam juice, coconut milk, and cream; return to a simmer at i85°F/85°C and mix in the curry paste.

2 . Add the taro and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes.

3 . Meanwhile, toss the chayote with the oil and season with salt and black pepper. Roast the diced chayote in a 35o°F/i77°C oven until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Reserve.

342

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­ ing with basil.

Manhattan^Style Clam Chowder Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

Puree o f Lentil Soup Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 8

o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon

1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 10 lb /4.54 kg chowder clams, washed 3 o z/8 5 g salt pork, minced to a paste 1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

2 lb /9 0 7 g brown lentils, rinsed and sorted 5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)

4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice leeks, white parts only 2

tbsp / 2

1

tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, as needed

4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice green peppers 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 12 o z/3 4 0 g russet potatoes, peeled, cut into medium dice

0

g salt, or as needed

2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice GARNISH

1

bay leaf

8

o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)

1

thyme sprig

1

o z/2 8 g chopped chervil

1

oregano sprig

1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, cut into medium dice Salt, as needed

1 . Render the bacon in a large stockpot over low heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Reserve the bits of bacon for gar­ nish or leave in the soup for additional flavor.

Ground white pepper, as needed ’/2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce V 2 ts p /2.50 mL Worcestershire sauce 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g Old Bay seasoning

2 .. Add the mirepoix and cook over medium heat until tender and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

3 . Add the lentils and allow them to lightly toast before adding the stock. Add the stock and sachet to the pot. Bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C and skim as

1 . In a covered pot, steam the clams in 1 gal/3.84 L water until they open, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the

4 . Simmer the soup until the lentils are tender, 30 to

clam meat from the shells; chop and reserve. Strain

40 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the

and reserve the clam broth.

sachet. Season with salt and pepper.

2 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medium

5 . Strain the mixture, reserving the soup broth. Puree

heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly

the solids in a food mill or with an immersion blend­

crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the mirepoix, leeks, and

er. Add enough of the reserved soup broth to achieve

peppers and sweat until softened, about 5 minutes.

the proper consistency.

3 . Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute, until aromatic. Add the reserved clam broth, potatoes, bay leaf, thyme, and oregano and simmer over medium to medium-low heat until all of the vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes.

4 . Remove and discard the herbs. Add the tomatoes. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.

5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Degrease the soup. Add the reserved clams and season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, Worces­ tershire sauce, and Old Bay. Serve in heated bowls or cups.

344

needed.

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

6 . Season with lemon juice. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.

7 . Return the soup to a simmer at i85°F/85°C for ser­ vice and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with the reserved bacon, croutons, and chervil.

m

o

Puree o f Split Pea Soup Makes l gal/ 3 . 8 4 L 8

1—1* M akes 1 g a l/ 1 .8 4 L

rD 3 o z /8 5 g small-dice salt pork

tsp / 6 g minced garlic 8

5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g green split peas

8

o z/2 2 7 g nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, large dice

1

ham hock

1

bay leaf

2

tbsp / 2

1

tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, or as needed

^

n

o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon

1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243) 2

Caribbean-Style Puree o f Black Bean

^

o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans, soaked overnight V / 2 g al/5 .7 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) smoked ham hocks I 5 ' / 2 f I o z /1 6 5 mL dry sherry 2

0

g salt, or as needed

GARNISH 1 lb /4 5 4 g Croutons (page 965)

1 . Render the bacon in a large sauce pot over medium heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bits of bacon and reserve for garnish.

V 2 tsp / 1 g ground allspice Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed GARNISH 13 o z/3 6 9 g sour cream o z/1 5 6 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes 5 '/ 2

1

o z /2 8 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias

2 . Add the mirepoix to the rendered fat and saute until the onions become transparent, 8 to 10 minutes. * Add the garlic and saute for another minute until fragrant; do not brown the garlic.

3 . Add the stock, split peas, potatoes, ham hock, and bay leaf and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Sim­ mer the soup until the peas are tender, about 45 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Remove the ham hock and dice the lean meat, if desired, and reserve for finishing.

4 . Puree the soup until smooth using a food mill or immersion blender. Add back the ham hock meat,

1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over low heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, about 10 minutes.

2 . Add the mirepoix and sweat until the onions are translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.

3 . Add the beans, stock, sachet, and ham hocks. Sim­ mer until the beans are very tender, 3 to 4 hours.

4 . Remove the ham hocks and dice the lean meat to add as garnish, if desired.

5 . Puree half of the beans using a food mill or food processor. Return the bean puree to the soup. Stir in

if desired. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

the sherry and allspice. Season with salt and pepper.

The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly

The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly

cooled and refrigerated for later service.

cooled and refrigerated for later service.

5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer

6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.

at i85°F/85°C. Serve it in heated bowls or cups and

Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­

garnish each serving with croutons and bacon, if

ing with the diced ham hock meat, if using, the sour

desired.

cream, tomatoes, and green onions.

Puree o f Yellow S p lit Pea Soup: Replace the green sp lit peas w ith an equal amount o f yellow sp lit peas.

ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S

345

Senate Bean Soup

Potage Garbure

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

1

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight

I V 2 g al/5.76 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 2

smoked ham hocks

2 ft o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 6

o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onions

6

o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice carrots

6

o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice celery

2

garlic cloves, minced

2 o z/5 7 g ground salt pork 2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil 8

o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped onions

8

o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped carrots

12 o z/3 4 0 g finely chopped leeks, white and pale green parts 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced nonwaxy potatoes 12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced green cabbage

1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 2 4 1) 12 o z/3 4 0 g peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes 6

to

8

drops hot sauce Salt, as needed

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed GARNISH

1 . Combine the beans, stock, and ham hocks in a stock-

8

o z /2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)

pot. Simmer over medium heat until the beans are almost tender, about 2 hours.

2 . Strain the broth and reserve. Reserve the beans separately. Dice the lean meat of the ham hocks and reserve for garnish.

1 . Render the salt pork with the olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat until the fat melts from the pork, 12 to 15 minutes.

2 . Add the onions, carrots, and leeks and stir until the

3 . Heat the oil in the same stockpot. Add the onions,

vegetables are coated with fat. Cover the pan and

carrots, and celery and sweat over medium heat

smother over low heat, stirring from time to time,

until the onions are translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add

until the vegetables are tender and translucent, 10 to

the garlic and saute until it is aromatic, about 1

12 minutes.

minute.

4 . Return the beans and broth to the pot. Add the

3 . Add the stock, potatoes, cabbage, and tomatoes and simmer over low to medium heat until the potatoes

sachet. Simmer at i85°F/85°C until the beans are

are just starting to fall apart, 20 to 25 minutes. Skim

tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove and discard the

the surface of the soup as needed during cooking

sachet.

time. Taste the soup periodically to monitor the

5 . Puree half of the soup in a blender or with a food mill. Combine the puree and reserved ham with the remaining soup. Adjust the consistency with addi­

cooking time and adjust seasoning as the soup sim­ mers.

4 . Puree the soup to a coarse texture. The soup is ready

tional broth or water if necessary. The soup is ready

to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig­

to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig­

erated for later service.

erated for later service. 6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer

5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper.

over low heat until heated through, 6 to 8 minutes.

Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­

Season with hot sauce, salt, and pepper.

ing with a crouton.

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

in

O £

Vichyssoise

Ground black pepper, as needed

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

1 q t/9 6 0 mL heavy cream, hot

^

1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g shrimp, peeled and deveined

CD

3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil 1

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g finely chopped leeks, white parts only

6

o z/1 7 0 g finely chopped onions

3 lb /1.36 kg nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, medium dice 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) 1

tbsp / 1

0

g salt, plus more as needed

V 2 t s p / l g Old Bay seasoning V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce, or as needed V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed 4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry sherry

1 . Rinse the shrimp shells thoroughly and drain. Saute the shrimp shells in 2 oz/57 g ° f the butter in

Ground white pepper, as needed

a medium stockpot over medium-high heat until

24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL half-and-half

the shells turn bright pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove

2 o z/5 7 g snipped chives

^

the shells from the pot and reserve.

2 . Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions. 1 . Heat the oil in a medium stockpot. Add the leeks and onions and sweat over medium-low heat until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.

2 . Increase the heat to high. Add the potatoes, stock, sachet, 1 tablespoon salt, and white pepper. Bring to a full boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and sim­

Saute until the onions are translucent, about 2 minutes.

3 . Add the garlic, paprika, and tomato paste and cook until there is a sweet, cooked-tomato aroma, about 2 minutes.

4 . Deglaze with the brandy and reduce until nearly

mer until the potatoes are soft, about 30 minutes.

dry, 2 to 3 minutes. Add back the cooked shrimp

Remove and discard the sachet.

shells.

3 . Puree the soup in batches using a blender or food mill. Rapidly cool the soup and refrigerate until service.

4 . To finish the soup for service, stir in the half-andhalf and chives. Adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper. Serve in chilled bowls or cups.

5 . Add the veloute and simmer over medium-low heat, until the bisque is intensely rust colored and has thickened slightly, about 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper as the bisque simmers. 6 . Strain the bisque through a fine-mesh strainer, or use the wringing method (see page 329).

7 . Return the bisque to a simmer and add the cream. 8 . Cut the shrimp into small dice and saute in the

Shrimp Bisque Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

remaining 1 oz/28 g butter over medium-high heat, until cooked through and pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the shrimp to the bisque and simmer for 5 minutes.

9 . Add the Old Bay, hot sauce, and Worcestershire 1

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g shrimp shells

3 o z/8 5 g butter 1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, minced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1

sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap­ idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.

10. To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add the sherry and serve in heated bowls or cups.

tbsp / 6 g paprika, or as needed

2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste 3 f I o z/9 0 mL brandy 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish or Shrimp Veloute (page 2 9 4) Salt, as needed

c h a p te r 14 » SO UP S

347

Lobster Bisque

8 . Whisk in the roux and cook until the soup thick­ ens, 10 minutes more, stirring out any lumps.

( B is q u e

d e

H o m a r d )

9 . Add the cream. Reduce at a simmer to the desired consistency. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon

M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L

juice. Pass it through a strainer again, if necessary. 3 flo z /9 0 m L o liv e o il

The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap­

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice onions

idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice carrots

10 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add the tarragon and serve in heated bowls or

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice celery 8

cups.

o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced leeks

2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg small-dice fennel 6

garlic cloves, crushed

4 o z /1 13 g tomato paste

Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo

2 V i fl o z/7 5 mL brandy

M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L

lb 5 o z/2.86 kg lobster shells, cleaned, roasted, and crushed

6

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL dry white wine 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish Stock (page 255) r / 2 q t / 1 .4

4

L water

1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g andouille sausage, small dice

4 o z /1 13 g Italian rice (Arborio or Carnaroli)

o z/2 2 7 g boneless, skinless chicken breast, medium dice

5 o z/1 4 2 g Blond Roux (see page 246)

8

24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL heavy cream, hot

5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice green peppers

Salt, as needed

5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice celery

Cayenne, as needed

V 2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapenos

2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice

3 'A o z/9 9 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias

8

1

o z/2 8 g tarragon leaves, chopped

o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice onions

V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped garlic

5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced okra

1 . Heat the oil in a large soup pot or rondeau over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat for 5

o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes

minutes. Add the carrots, celery, leeks, fennel, and

5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, baked until dark brown

garlic and sweat for 5 minutes longer.

8

3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

2 . Add the lobster shells and sweat until the shells are very fragrant, about 10 minutes.

3 . Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it turns a rusty brown color.

2

bay leaves

1

tsp / 2 g dried oregano

1

tsp / 2 g onion powder

4 . Add the brandy and flambe.

V 2 tsp / 1 g dried thyme

5 . Add the wine and reduce it by half, about 5 minutes.

V i t s p /l g dried basil

6 . Add the stock and water and bring to a boil. Re­

Salt, as needed

duce to a simmer, add the rice, and cook, covered, until the rice is very soft, about 45 minutes.

7 . Strain the soup through a fine-mesh strainer,

Ground black pepper, as needed 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g shrimp, peeled, deveined, and chopped 13 o z/3 6 9 g cooked long-grain white rice

return it to a clean pot, and bring it to a boil. 1 tb sp /9 g file powder

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

m

O

1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot over

Gazpacho Andaluz

£

medium-high heat and add the andouille. Saute, stir­ ring occasionally, until the sausage starts to become

( A r id a lu c ia n a>

firm, about 1 minute.

2 . Add the chicken and sear until it begins to lose its raw appearance, 2 to 3 minutes.

3 . Add the onions, peppers, celery, jalapenos, green onions, garlic, okra, and tomatoes. Saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and the onions are translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.

4 . Add the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring con­

n 1—*•

G a z p a c h o , Makes 1 gal/3.84 L lb /3.63 kg peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes

8

1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced green peppers 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced, peeled cucumbers

stantly. Add the stock and stir constantly to work out

8

garlic cloves, crushed

any lumps.

8

f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar

5 . Add the bay leaves, oregano, onion powder, thyme, basil, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes. 6 . Add the shrimp and rice and simmer for 2 minutes

rt> m

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

more. Whisk in the file powder. Be sure to blend well, and do not allow the soup to return to a boil.

GARNISH

The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly

4 o z /1 13 g small-dice tomatoes

cooled and refrigerated for later service.

7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.

4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice green peppers 4 o z /1 1 3 g small-dice cucumbers

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Remove the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or cups.

1 . Combine the tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, garlic, vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive con­ tainer. Cover, refrigerate, and marinate overnight.

2 . Puree the marinated ingredients in a blender or food mill, working in batches if necessary. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

3 . Chill the soup thoroughly. 4 . Serve the soup in chilled bowls or cups and garnish each serving with diced tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.

c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S

349

Ham Bone and Co Hard Greens Soup

Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang)

Makes l gal/3.84

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

L

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced salt pork

2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

3 fl o z/9 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil

1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger

8

o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions

3A o z/21 g thinly sliced green onions

4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice celery

8

o z/2 2 7 g medium-ground pork butt

5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour

1

o z/2 8 g black fungus, soaked, short julienne

3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

I V 2 o z/4 3 g lily buds, soaked, short julienne

3 ham hocks

8

o z/2 2 7 g savoy cabbage chiffonade

1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)

8

o z/2 2 7 g small-dice firm tofu

1 lb /4 5 4 g trimmed collard greens, chopped, blanched

3Yz q t/3 .3 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

Salt, as needed

2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark soy sauce

Ground black pepper, as needed

8

fl o z/2 4 0 mL rice vinegar

1

tb s p /lO g s a lt

1 . Render the salt pork in a stockpot over medium heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, 5 to 7 minutes.

2 . Add the butter, onions, and celery, and sweat until the onions are translucent, about 6 minutes.

3 . Add the flour and cook for several minutes to make a pale roux, stirring frequently.

4 . Gradually add the chicken stock, whisking out any

3/4 o z/21 g ground black pepper 2 'A o z/6 4 g cornstarch 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water 3 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil GARNISH 1

o z/2 8 g thinly sliced green onions

lumps.

5 . Add the ham hocks and sachet, bring to a simmer,

1 . Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or soup pot over

and cook for 1 hour. Add the greens to the soup. Sim­

medium-high heat. Add the ginger and green onions

mer until tender, about 30 minutes.

and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds.

6 . Remove the hocks and sachet. Remove the lean meat from the hocks and cut it into small dice. Return the diced meat to the soup and season with salt and pepper. The soup is ready to serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.

7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Serve in heated bowls or cups.

2 . Add the pork and stir-fry until it is cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.

3 . Add the black fungus, lily buds, and cabbage and stirfry until the cabbage is tender, 3 to 4 minutes.

4 . Add the tofu, stock, soy sauce, vinegar, salt, and pep­ per and bring the soup to a boil.

5 . Mix the cornstarch and water together. Slowly add the slurry to the boiling soup, stirring constantly. Slowly stir the eggs into the soup. 6 . Hold hot, but do not boil.

7 . Add the sesame oil. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with green onions.

350

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

C/3

O

Spicy Beef Soup

U . Add the green onions, red pepper paste, soybean

£

paste, soy sauce, cabbage, and reserved beef. Return

a n g Makes

1

gal/ 3 . 8 4 L

the soup to a boil, stirring occasionally.

7

.

In a separate heavy skillet, heat the sesame oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until aro­

7 lb 8 o z/3.40 kg beef bones 1

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g beef flank, trimmed, fa t reserved

1 gal 16 fl o z/4 .3 2 L water 1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, peeled and quartered 1 o z/2 8 g ginger, peeled, cut into '/8 -in /3 -m m slices

i-i

CD n 1—*•

matic, about 30 seconds. Add the bean sprouts and stir-fry until cooked, but still firm, about 3 minutes.

n> C/3

Add the cooked sprouts to the soup. 8 . Add the eggs to the soup and stir very gently to cre­ ate long ribbons. Taste and season with salt and pep­ per. Serve in heated bowls or cups.

2 o z/5 7 g beef fat 1

o z/2 8 g all-purpose flour

1

tbsp / 6 g thinly sliced green onions

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Korean red pepper paste 8

fI o z/2 4 0 mL Korean soybean paste

1 ts p /5 mL light soy sauce 10 o z/2 8 4 g green cabbage chiffonade V / 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL sesame oil 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 3 o z/8 5 g bean sprouts, cut into l-in /3 -c m lengths 2

eggs, lightly beaten

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Blanch the beef bones in a large stockpot. Drain and rinse.

2 .. Return the bones to the stockpot and add the beef and water. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Simmer over medium-low heat until the beef is ten­ der, about 1 hour 15 minutes. When the beef is ten­ der, remove it from the pot and plunge it into cold water for 15 minutes. Pull the beef into i-in/3-cm strips. Refrigerate, covered.

3 . Add the onions and ginger to the broth and sim­ mer over medium-low heat for about 1 hour. At this point, the broth can be strained, rapidly cooled, and refrigerated for service.

4 . To finish the soup for service, skim the broth and return it to a boil.

5 . Render the beef fat in the reserved fat, browning slightly. Strain the melted fat and transfer 2 tbsp/30 mL to a stockpot. Add the flour to create a roux, stir­ ring over low heat for 5 minutes. Gradually add the hot broth, stirring frequently, and bring to boil.

chapter 14 » S O U P S

351

o

Miso Soup Makes l gal/3.84 L V 2 o z/1 4 g dried wakame seaweed 1 g al/3 .8 4 L Ichi Ban Dashi (page 266) fl o z/2 4 0 mL miso (use aka [red] miso for summer and shiro [white] for winter) 8

Thai Chicken Soup w ith Coconut Milk and Galangal

^ Q. T3

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil

1

c "d

rD cn

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice tofu 3 'A o z/9 2 g minced shallots

GARNISH V A o z/3 5 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias

1 . Soak the wakame in warm water for 30 minutes.

I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic 2 o z/5 7 g minced lemongrass 2 tb sp /3 0 mL Thai chili paste

Drain it, pour boiling water over it, and plunge it

V A o z/4 3 g galangal, sliced 'A in/ 6 mm thick

into very cold water (no ice). Drain well. Trim off

18 kaffir lime leaves, bruised

any tough parts. Chop the remaining seaweed roughly

V A q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

(V2 in/i cm maximum). Wrap in doubled rinsed cheesecloth and twist to extract excess moisture.

2 . Place the dashi in a large stockpot or wok. Temper

1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar, or as needed 6

f I o z/1 8 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed

.

the miso into the dashi gradually, whisking

2 q t/1 .9 2 L coconut milk

constantly to combine completely.

2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into thin strips

3 . Bring the dashi to a simmer, add the tofu and

V 2 o z/1 8 4 g drained canned straw mushrooms, halved

chopped wakame and simmer for 1 minute. The

6

soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly

4 o z/1 1 3 g peeled, seeded, and medium-dice tomatoes

cooled and refrigerated for later service.

4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­ ing with green onions.

2 tb s p /3 0 mL lime juice, or as needed 1

tbsp / 1

0

g salt, or as needed

GARNISH 40 cilantro sprigs

1 . Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat and add the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and chili paste. Cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds.

2 . Add the galangal, lime leaves, stock, sugar, fish sauce, and coconut milk. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.

3 . Strain the broth into a pot and discard the solids. Add the chicken, mushrooms, and tomatoes. Sim­ mer until the chicken is cooked, 3 to 5 minutes.

4 . Add the lime juice and salt and adjust seasoning with sugar and fish sauce. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated.

5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­ ing with cilantro sprigs.

c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS

353

Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung)

Wonton Soup Makes 1 gal/3.84 L WONTONS

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

8

o z/2 2 7 g medium-grind pork

8

o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped Chinese cabbage

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil 2 fl o z/6 0 mL Red Curry Paste (page 370) 1

o z/2 8 g thinly sliced green onions

1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (3 1 /3 6 count), peeled, deveined, halved lengthwise; reserve the shells

2

tsp / 6 g minced ginger

1 tbsp / 8 g minced Thai bird chiles

1 tb s p /1 5 mL light soy sauce

1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

1 tb sp /1 5 mL sesame oil

4 stalks lemongrass, bruised, cut into 3-in/8-cm lengths

V2 ts p /1 .5 g salt, or as needed 1

1 o z/2 8 g galangal, sliced V b in /3 mm thick 12

kaffir lime leaves, bruised

14 o z/3 9 7 g plum tomatoes, cut into

tb sp /1 5g su g a r

V* tsp /0.5 g ground white pepper, or as needed 48 wonton wrappers, 3-in/8-cm squares

8

wedges each 1

egg, slightly beaten

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g drained canned straw mushrooms, halved

SOUP

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable or peanut oil

1

o z/2 8 g sugar

2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice

1 ts p /3 g minced ginger

V/2 o z/4 3 g cilantro leaves

1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 2

I . Heat the oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute; do not let the paste brown.

2 . Add the reserved shrimp shells, chiles, stock, lem­

V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL dark soy sauce

'A tsp / 1 g salt, or as needed Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed 6

o z/1 7 0 g stemmed spinach

ongrass, galangal, and lime leaves. Simmer for 10

4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, f ine julienne

minutes.

OMELET

3 . Strain the broth into a clean pot and discard the sol­ ids. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, fish sauce, and sugar and bring to a boil.

4 . Mix in the lime juice and adjust seasoning with fish sauce. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.

5 . Poach the shrimp in some of the broth until they are opaque and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the liquid and cool on a sheet pan. (The poaching liquid can be added back to the soup.) Toss the cooled shrimp with the cilantro and reserve for service. 6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add the shrimp and cilantro mixture to a heated bowl or cup and ladle the broth on top. Serve immediately.

STOCKS, S A U CES, AND S O U P S

1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable or peanut oil 4 eggs, beaten

1 . To make the wonton filling, combine the pork, cab­ bage, green onions, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, salt, sugar, and pepper and mix well with a spoon or work by hand until thoroughly combined. Keep chilled until ready to fill the wontons.

2 . To make the wontons, spoon 1 tsp/5 mL of the filling mixture into the center of each wrapper and brush the edges of the wrapper lightly with the beaten egg. Fold the wonton in half to make a triangle and then overlap the points, pressing them in place. Keep wontons covered as they are being prepared.

ga

O

3 . Cook the wontons in batches in boiling salted water until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and re­

Ground black pepper, as needed

serve, covered.

o z/2 2 7 g escaroie, finely chopped

O)

8

o z/2 2 7 g tubettini pasta

n i—*•

and saute, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 1

Olive oil, as needed

minute.

l 3/ f o z/5 0 g sliced garlic

5 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Season with soy

i- i

8

4 . To make the soup, heat the oil in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the green onions and ginger

£

Salt, as needed

•"d o>

GARNISH

sauce, salt, and pepper. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.

20 Croutons (page 965) V / i o z/4 3 g grated Parmesan

6 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the spinach and blanch for 30 seconds. Drain

1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy sauce pot over medium-

and rinse in cold water until chilled. Drain again,

high heat and add the pancetta. Cook until lightly

squeeze out the excess water, and chop coarsely.

browned, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Re­

Reserve.

move the pancetta with a slotted spoon and drain on

7 . To make the omelet, heat the oil in a medium sauteuse or omelet pan. Cook the eggs, stirring con­ stantly, until they are set. Flatten the eggs into an

paper towels; reserve. Pour off and reserve all but 1 tbsp/15 mL of the fat.

2 . Reduce the heat to low, add the onion and shallot,

even layer and roll the omelet out of the pan. Allow

and cook until softened and slightly golden in color,

it to cool slightly and then cut into a fine julienne.

5 to 6 minutes.

8 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.

3 . Add the drained beans, tomatoes, stock, sachet, and

Add the spinach, ham, and omelet. Simmer just long

cooked pancetta. Simmer until the beans are almost

enough to heat, about 2 minutes.

tender, about 1 hour.

9 . Reheat the wontons if necessary and place three in

4 . Add the carrot and cook until both the beans and

a heated bowl or cup. Ladle the hot soup over the

carrots are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt

wontons and serve at once.

and pepper and reserve warm. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger­ ated for later service.

5 . Blanch the escaroie in boiling salted water about 1

Tuscan White Bean and Escaroie Soup Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

minute, shock in ice water, and reserve. 6 . Cook the tubettini to al dente in boiling salted water. Shock in ice water, drain well, and toss lightly with olive oil.

7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer. 2 tb s p /3 0 m L o liv e o il

Brown the garlic in the reserved pancetta fat in a

12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice pancetta

sauteuse over medium-high heat, 2 to 3 minutes.

6

o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onion

1

o z/2 8 g minced shallot

Add to the soup. Add the escaroie and pasta and cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Adjust

12 o z/3 4 0 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight and drained 1

seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with crou­ tons and grated Parmesan.

lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g canned tomatoes, seeded and chopped

2 V i q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) 4 o z /1 13 g small-dice carrot

chapter 14 » S O U P S

355

Vegetable Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana) Makes l gal/3.84 L 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced onions 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice carrots 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice celery 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g russet potatoes, peeled, cut into small dice 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice zucchini 12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice green beans 2 lb /9 0 7 g shredded savoy cabbage 1 g al/3 .8 4 L Brodo (page 266) 2 pieces Parmesan rind, 3-in/8-cm squares, cleaned 1 lb /4 5 4 g canned plum tomatoes, with juices Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 10 o z/2 8 4 g Great Northern or navy beans, cooked (see page 1161) GARNISH

4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil and remove the Parmesan rinds, if desired. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Add the beans and serve

H i

with grated Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.

^ I—»«

T 3

Minestrone

$

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 2 o z/5 7 g salt pork, minced 2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g paysanne-cut onion 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut celery 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut carrot 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green pepper 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green cabbage V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic 1 lb /4 5 4 g tomato concasse 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g cooked chickpeas (see page 1161) 6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked black-eyed peas (see page 1161) 6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked ditalini (see page 815) GARNISH 5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan

2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan, or as needed 4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed

1 . Render the salt pork with the oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat until the fat has melted but the

1 . Melt the butter with the oil in a large soup pot over low heat. Add the onions and sweat until wilted and

meat has not browned, about 10 minutes.

2 . Add the onions, celery, carrots, peppers, cabbage,

soft, about 15 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for

and garlic and sweat until the onions are translucent

3 minutes.

about 15 minutes.

2 . Add the vegetables in the following sequence, al­

3 . Add the tomato concasse, stock, salt, and pepper.

lowing each to soften before adding the next: celery,

Simmer until the vegetables are tender, 25 to 30

potatoes, zucchini, green beans, and cabbage. Do not

minutes. Do not overcook.

let the vegetables brown.

3 . Add the brodo, cheese rind, and tomatoes with their juices. Partially cover and cook at a low simmer until the vegetables are just cooked, 20 to 25 minutes. Add

4 . Add the chickpeas, black-eyed peas, and ditalini. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and stored for later service.

5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.

more broth as necessary. The soup is ready to finish

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish indi­

now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for

vidual portions with grated Parmesan.

later service.

chapter 14 » S O U P S

357

meats, poultry

PART 4

mise en place for bieats, poultry, sh, and shellfish Bringing out the best flavor in meats, poultry, and fish is a skill that seems to come naturally to a professional chef. Another hallmark of the professional is an ability to cook meats, poultry, and fish to the perfect degree of doneness. These skills develop through concentration, practice, and a basic understanding of seasoning and cooking techniques.

CHAPTER

15

A

dding

dish

sea so n in g s

the

fu l l e s t

at th e

proper

po ssible

b len d s of h erbs and spices as

o n io n s

,

g a r lic

m e a n t to e n h a n c e

,

fr esh fla v o r

fla v o r

,an

or

,

point

. Th e

in t h e

a r r a y

cooking of

pr o c ess

s e a so n in g s

d m a rin a d es that m a y include o ils

dried

h e r b s

not detract

,

or

fro m

spices

. In

e v e r y

or o v e r w h e lm

is k e y

r u n s

,a

c a s e the

to

fro m

,

cid s

,an

t h o u g h

dish

giving

sim ple

a

finished

to

c o m ple x

d a ro m atics such

,

s e a so n in g s

are

. LI Q. UI D M A R I N A D E S

m a y

C H A N G E T H E T E X T U R E O F F O O D S IN A D D I T I O N T O F L A V O R I N G T H E M .

seasonings S a lt and pepper are take n so much fo r gra n te d th a t some beginning cooks fa il to apply these tw o seasonings ea rly enough durin g cooking o r in enough q u a n tity to bring o u t the b e st fla v o r in cooked fo o d s. S a lt and pepper added b e fo re cooking b ring o u t th e in he rent fla v o rs in foo ds. If these seasonings are added only a fte r th e cooking is com plete, th e sa lt and pepper may ta ke on to o much sig nifica nce in th e fin is h e d dish’s flavo r. It is generally b e tte r to apply s a lt and pepper separately. Using your fin g e rtip s to apply s a lt and pepper is a good w ay to c o n tro l th e am ount added and to apply a m ore even coat. S a lt and p e pp er are fun dam e ntal, b u t blends th a t com bine various spices, herbs, and o th e r a ro m a tics can cre a te a p a rtic u la r fla v o r p ro file . Like s a lt and pepper, th e y may be ap plied d ire c tly to raw m eat, p o u ltry, o r fis h . To in te n s ify th e fla v o r o f seeds and spices, to a s t the m e ith e r on th e s to v e to p o r in a m od era te oven ju s t b e fo re grinding. Be sure to pay close a tte n tio n . They can go fro m p e rfe c tly to a s te d to scorched very quickly. To to a s t seeds o r spices in the oven, spread them o u t on a dry sheet pan in a m oderate oven ju s t u n til a plea sant arom a is apparent. S tir o fte n to ensure even browning. Remove im m e d ia te ly and tra n s fe r to a fre s h pan o r p la te to cool. To to a s t spices and seeds on th e stove to p, spread them in a shallow layer in a preheated dry saute pan and toss, shake, o r s w irl th e pan u n til a rich, p e n e tra tin g aroma arises. Trans­ fe r them to a cool pan to avoid scorching. Fresh herbs and o th e r in g re d ie n ts such as garlic, fre s h o r dry bread crum bs, o r g ra te d cheeses can be blended in to a paste or coating. They are som e tim es m oiste ne d w ith oil, prepared m ustard, or sim ila r in g re d ie n ts to crea te a te x tu re th a t can easily adhere to a fo o d o r make it easier to blend it in to a dish as a fin a l seasoning. Fresh herbs may have d irt in th e ir leaves, so rinse th e m w e ll to rem ove sand o r g rit. Thorough d ryin g im proves th e f la ­ vo r and te x tu re o f the blend by pre ve n tin g w a te r clinging to th e herb's leaves fro m d ilu tin g flavo r. When a spice blend is used as a d ry rub (also called a d ry m arinad e) to coa t foo d, the fo o d is re frig e ra te d a fte r a p p lica tio n to allow it to absorb th e fla vo rs. Very o fte n , these rubs con tain some s a lt to help in te n s ify all the fla v o rs in th e dish. Dry rubs may be le ft on th e fo o d durin g cooking o r th e y may be scraped away fir s t. Spice blends may also be added to a ro m a tic veg etab le s as th e y cook during th e in itia l stages o f p re pa ring a braise o r stew. The f a t used to cook th e veg etab le s releases th e fla v o r o f th e spices and in fu ses th e dish m ore e ffe c tiv e ly than i f th e spice blend w ere s im p ly added to a sim m e ring dish. Barbecued b e e f and Jamaican je rk e d po rk are classic exam ples o f dishes th a t may be prepared using a dry rub. The Jerked Game Hens on page 4 5 9 are m arinate d using a paste to add flavor.

362

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

in O)

P M arinades g e ne rally contain one or m ore o f th e fo llo w in g : oil, acid, and aro m atics

m

(spices, herbs, and vegetables). Oils p ro te c t fo o d fro m in te nse heat du rin g cooking and

O

help hold o th e r fla v o rfu l in g re d ie n ts in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d . Acids, such as vinegar, wine,

P

yo g u rt, and c itru s ju ices, fla v o r th e fo o d and change its te x tu re . In some cases, acids firm o r s tiffe n fo o d s (e.g., the lim e ju ice m arinade th a t "cooks" th e raw fis h in seviche). M a rin a tin g tim e s vary according to the foo d's te x tu re . Tender or d e lica te fo o d s such as

2

QTQ

fis h o r p o u ltry b re a sts req uire less tim e . A to u g h e r c u t o f m ea t m ay be m arinate d f o r days. The ra tio o f acid to o th e r in g re d ie n ts may also a ffe c t tim in g . H igh-acid m arinades, such as th o se used to prepare seviche, produce th e desired e ffe c t w ith in 15 o r 20 m inutes o f applying the m to a foo d. O thers are b e st le ft in co n ta c t w ith fo o d s f o r several hours, w hile som e req uire several days. Some m arinades are cooked b e fo re use; o th e rs are not. S om e tim es th e m arinade is used to fla v o r an accom panying sauce o r may its e lf becom e a d ip p in g sauce. M arinades th a t have been in co n ta c t w ith raw fo o d s can be used in these ways p ro vid ed th a t the y are boile d f o r several m inutes f ir s t to k ill any linge rin g pathogens. To use a liquid m arinade, add it to the in g re d ie n t and tu rn th e in g re d ie n t to coa t evenly. Cover and m arinate, re frig e ra te d , fo r the length o f tim e in d ica te d by th e recipe, the ty p e o f m eat, p o u ltry , o r fish, and th e desired resu lt. Brush o r scrape o f f excess m arinade b e fore cooking and p a t dry, p a rtic u la rly if th e m arinade contains herbs o r o th e r aro m atics th a t burn easily.

A cut o f m eat w ith the proper amount o f dry

Brush marinade on the ingredient or dip

rub.

the ingredient in the marinade to coat it thoroughly.

Chapter 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

363

S

t u ffin g s

add

f la v o r

,

m o istu r e

,

an d

t e x t u r e

to

a

dish

. The

sim ple st

st u ffin g s

are

m ade

F R O M O N L Y H ER B S , V E G E T A B L E S , A N D F RUI TS; O P T I O N S I N C L U D E Q U A R T E R E D OR H A L V E D O NI O NS , G AR LI C CL OVES, L E M O N S OR O RA N G ES , AN D SPRIG S OR B U N C H E S OF F R E S H HER BS. A L T H O U G H T H E S E A R E U N CO M PL I CA TE D , T H E Y CA N HA V E A DRAM ATI C IMPACT ON FLAV OR.

stuffings Bread and p a rtic u la rly fo rc e m e a t s tu ffin g s are m ore com plex op tion s. Prepare bread s tu ffin g s by cubing or bre aking breads (pe asa nt-style, corn, French, o r Ita lia n -s ty le ) in to sm all pieces. S tu ffin g s are generally fla v o re d w ith a ro m a tic veg etab le s (ty p ic a lly cooked in some fa t to develop th e ir fla vo r), herbs, and spices. Some bread s tu ffin g s are m oistened w ith sto cks o r bro th s. O ptio nally, eggs may be included to bind the s tu ffin g . A d d itio n a l in gre die nts, such as cooked sausage, seafood, o r m ushroom s, may also be included. Grain-based s tu ffin g s are based upon rice, barley, kasha, or o th e r grains th a t have been cooked un til ju s t te n d e r (use the p ila f or sim m ering m ethods; see pages 761 and 754). Once cooked, cool the grains com p le te ly b e fore the s tu ffin g is added to meat, poultry, or fish. These s tu ffin g s can be seasoned, m oistened, and bound sim ilarly to bread-based s tu ffin g s. F orcem eat s tu ffin g s can be prepared using any o f th e fo rc e m e a t m ethods o r recipes included in C hapter 3 0 (pages 98 5 to 1011). These m ixtu re s m ust be handled c a re fu lly to keep them w e ll chille d and w holesom e. Keep fo rc e m e a ts over an ice bath fo r q u a lity as w ell as fo o d s a fe ty. They are o fte n used to f ill d e lica te cuts o f m eat and fis h (e.g., to spread on to fis h fille ts b e fo re the y are ro lle d in to p a u p ie tte s and shallow-poached). A n o th e r im p o rta n t co n sid eratio n w ith s tu ffin g s , along w ith fla v o r and q u a lity, is p ro p e r handling f o r fo o d s a fe ty. Any s tu ffin g in g re d ie n ts th a t req uire p re coo king should be cooled to below 40 °F /4 °C b e fo re th e y are com bined w ith o th e r s tu ffin g elem ents. The fin ish e d m ix tu re should also be chilled w e ll b e fo re s tu ffin g . D uring fin a l cooking, s tu ffin g s m ust reach th e m inim um safe te m p e ra tu re fo r the fo o d the y were s tu ffe d into. S tu ffin g in a chicken b re a st or leg, fo r instance, m ust reach 165°F /74°C . For th is reason, whole chickens and tu rke ys are ra re ly s tu ffe d in p ro fe ssio n a l kitchens. By the tim e the s tu ffin g reaches the necessary te m p e ra tu re , th e m eat w ould be overcooked. Instead, s tu ffin g s f o r w hole roa ste d birds are m ore o fte n baked sep ara te ly, in which case th e y are known as dressings.

364

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

It

is p r e p a r e d b y c o a t i n g f o o d s w i t h

T H E M O S T E F F IC IE N T W A Y TO COAT A N U M B E R OF IT E M S , U S IN G A C O N S IS T E N T S E d U E N C E .

standard breading Be sure to season th e fo o d b e fo re ap plying any coating. Use flo u r and sim ila r meals o r powders, such as corn sta rch, to lig h tly dredge o r du st

standard breading

B r e a d i n g is d o n e t o c r e a t e a c r i s p c r u s t o n f r i e d f o o d s .

F L O U R , EG G W A S H , A N D B R E A D C R U M B S O R O T H E R C O A T I N G S . T h e S T A N D A R D B R E A D I N G P R O C E D U R E IS

fo o d s b e fo re th e y are dipped in an egg wash. M ake an egg wash by blending eggs (whole, yolks, o r w h ite s) and w a te r or m ilk. A gen­ eral guid eline calls fo r ab ou t 2 f l o z /6 0 mL m ilk f o r every 2 w hole eggs. Some item s are dipp ed in to m ilk o r b u tte rm ilk b e fo re th e y are breaded, ra th e r than in egg wash. Bread crum bs may be dry or fresh. Fresh w h ite bread crum bs (called m ie de pain in French) are prepared by g ra tin g or p rocessing fin e ly te x tu re d bread, such as w h ite Pullman bread w ith the cru s t rem oved. Dry bread crum bs (called chapelure in French) are prepared fro m s lig h tly stale bread th a t may be fu rth e r d ried o r to a s te d in a w arm oven. Panko (Japa­ nese bread crum bs) has becom e very popular. These breadcrum bs are coarser than sta n ­ dard bread crum bs and cre a te a crunchy c ru s t when frie d . O th er in g re d ie n ts may be used in place o f o r in a d d itio n to bread crumbs. O ptions in­ clude nuts, seeds, shredded coconut, c orn flake s, p o ta to flake s, shredded p o ta to e s, gra te d cheese, ground spices, g a rlic paste, and chopped herbs. B lo t th e fo o d dry w ith paper to w e ls and season as desired. Hold it in one hand and dip it in flo u r. Shake o f f any excess flo u r and tra n s fe r th e fo o d to th e co n ta in e r o f egg wash. S w itch hands, pick up th e foo d, and tu rn it if necessary to coa t it on all sides. T ransfer it to the co n ta in e r o f bread crum bs. Use your dry hand to pack bread crum bs evenly around the fo o d . Shake o f f any excess, then tra n s fe r the fo o d to a rack s e t over a holding tray. S tore breaded fo o d in single layers, b u t if you m ust sta ck th e pieces, use pa rchm e nt or waxed paper to separate th e layers. D iscard any unused flo u r, egg wash, and bread crum bs. The presence o f juices, d rip ­ pings, or p a rtic le s o f the fo o d you ju s t coa ted w ill con ta m in a te the se pro du cts, m aking the m unsafe f o r use w ith o th e r foo ds. Even s iftin g th e flo u r o r crum bs o r s tra in in g th e egg wash w ill n o t be s u ffic ie n t to pre ven t cross co n ta m in a tio n and e lim in a te th e p o te n tia l fo r fo o d -b o rn e illness.

Standard breading procedure setup

365

general guidelines for determining doneness in meats, poultry, and fish Chefs m ust re ly n o t only on a th e rm o m e te r, b u t also on th e ir senses when cooking. Those senses are p u t to a g re a te r te s t in d e te rm in in g doneness in a la m in ute cooking because chefs can't a ctu a lly ta s te w h a t th e y are serving, th e w ay th e y can ta s te a soup o r a sauce. Follow the se guidelines: »

THE WAY IT SMELLS. As fo o d s near doneness, th e ir sm ells change. Arom as in te n s ify and becom e easier to id e n tify . Each cooking m ethod produces a p a rtic u la r aroma. G rilled and b ro ile d fo o d s should have a pleasing sm oky, charred arom a, in d ic a tin g rich, deep flavo r.

»

THE WAY IT FEELS. Foods should be easy to cu t and chew. Touch fo o d s (w ith a gloved fin g e r) to gauge resistance. The less w ell-done a piece o f m eat is, th e s o fte r and m ore yie ld in g it w ill fe e l. Keep in m ind th a t te x tu re varies in d iffe re n t cuts o f meat.

»

THE WAY IT LOOKS. As m eat cooks, th e e x te rio r w ill change color. The in te rio r colors also change, an im p o rta n t fa c to r when d e te rm in in g doneness in m eats cooked to cus­ to m e r p re fe re n ce (rare, m edium , o r w ell done). If th e m ea t appears pale or even gray, it has n o t been p ro p e rly cooked. The ju ice s th a t run fro m th e m eat, although m inim al, should be th e c o rre c t color; th e ra re r th e m eat, th e re d d e r th e ju ice s w ill appear. Appearance is also an im p o rta n t fa c to r in know ing when to tu rn a piece o f m eat. When

th e m eat's up pe r surface begins to appear ve ry m o is t (there may even be m o istu re beads), the m eat should be turne d. Thin pieces may s ta rt to change co lo r a t th e edges when the y are ready fo r turning. The te m p e ra tu re s in th e fo llo w in g ta b le are fin a l re s tin g tem p e ra tu re s, based on the USDA's safe cooking guidelines. M o st m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h need to be rem oved fro m the pan, g rill, o r oven b e fore the y reach th e ir fin a l te m p e ra tu re to avoid overcooking and drying out. Heat is retained by fo o d s even a fte r they are rem oved fro m th e heat source. That re ­ sidual heat causes th e fo o d to keep cooking, a phenomenon re fe rre d to as ca rryo ve r c oo k­ ing. Internal te m p e ra tu re s taken ju s t as th e fo o d is rem oved fro m the oven and again a fte r re s tin g w ill show a te m p e ra tu re d iffe re n c e o f anywhere fro m a fe w degrees to ten, fifte e n , or more. F actors th a t play a role in changes in in te rna l te m p e ra tu re during re stin g include the mass o f the fo o d being prepared and the presence o r absence o f s tu ffin g and bones.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

FINAL RESTING TEMPERATURE

DESCRIPTION

RARE

1 3 5 °F /5 7 °C

In te rio r appearance shiny

M EDIUM -R ARE

1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C

Deep red to pink

M EDIUM

1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C

Pink to lig h t pink

W ELL-DONE

1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C

L ig h t p in k w ith g ra yin g on th e edges f o r m edium -w ell; no pink f o r w e ll done

M ED IU M

1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C

M e a t opaque th ro u g h o u t; s lig h t give; ju ice s w ith fa in t blush

W ELL-DONE

1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C

S lig h t give; ju ic e s cle ar

FRESH HAM

1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C

S lig h t give; ju ic e s w ith fa in t blush

PRECOOKED (TO REHEAT)

1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C

M e a t a lre a d y fu lly cooked

WHOLE BIRDS (CHICKEN, TURKEY, DUCK, GOOSE)

1 8 0 °F /8 2 °C

Leg easy to move in so cke t; ju ic e s w ith only blush

POULTRY BREASTS

1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C

M e a t opaque; fir m th ro u g h o u t

PO ULTRYTHIGHS, LEGS, WINGS

1 8 0 °F /8 2 °C

M e a t releases fro m bone

STUFFING (COOKED ALONE OR IN BIRD)

1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C

The appearance o f th e fu lly cooked s tu ffin g w ill depend on th e recipe

TURKEY, CHICKEN

1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C

O paque th ro u g h o u t; ju ic e s cle ar

BEEF, VEAL, LAM B, PORK

1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C

DEGREE OF DONENESS fre sh beef, ve al, a nd la m b

general guidelines

Temperatures and Descriptions of Degrees o f Doneness

fresh p o rk

h am

p o u ltr y

g ro u n d m e a t a n d m e a t m ix tu re s

Opaque, m ay have blush o f red; ju ice s opaque, no red

seafood FISH

1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C

S till m o ist; se p a ra te s e a sily in to segm ents. Or u n til opaque

SHRIMP, LOBSTER, CRAB

S hells tu rn red, fle s h becom es p e arly opaque

SCALLOPS

Turn m ilk y w h ite o r opaque; firm

CLAM S, MUSSELS, OYSTERS

S hells open

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

367

Garam Masala

Barbecue Spice Mix

M akes 2 oz /5 7 g

M akes 2 oz /57 g

12 to 13 green or black cardamom pods

V2 o z/1 4 g Spanish paprika

4 ts p /7 g coriander seeds

V2 o z/1 4 g Chili Powder (recipe follows, or purchased)

4 ts p /8 g c u m in seeds

V2 o z/1 4 g salt

1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces

2 ts p /4 g ground cumin

V A

ts p /2.50 g cloves

ZV 2 ts p /5 g black peppercorns 'A

ts p /0.50 g ground nutmeg

2 or 3 bay leaves (optional)

2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r l t s p / 2 g dry mustard 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 1 ts p /2 g dried thyme 1 ts p /2 g dried oregano

1 . Break open the cardamom pods and remove the seeds. Combine the cardamom, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, and peppercorns. Roast in a

1 ts p /3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) V 2 ts p / 1 g cayenne

350°F/i77°C oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove and cool slightly.

2.. Combine the roasted spices with the nutmeg and

Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con­ tainer and use within 1 month.

bay leaves (if using) in a clean spice grinder and grind to a medium-fine powder.

3 . Store in a tightly sealed container and use within 1 month.

Chili Powder M akes 2 oz /57 g

r

/2

o z/4 3 g dried chiles, ground

Chinese Five-Spice Powder

V2 o z/1 4 g ground cumin

M akes 2 oz/57 g

'A ts p /0.50 g ground coriander

5 star anise pods 2 or 3 cloves

1 ts p /2 g dried oregano

V2 tsp /1 g garlic powder

V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves (optional)

Combine all the spices including the cloves, if de­

4'/2 ts p /9 g Szechwan peppercorns

sired. Store in a tightly sealed container and use

1 tb sp /7 g fennel seeds

within 1 month.

'A

cinnamon stick (about 1 in /3 cm cinnamon stick)

NOTES: Remove the seeds from the chiles if a less spicy blend is desired.

1 . Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly

Some commercially prepared chili powder is actually a blend sim ilar to this one.

sealed container and use within 1 month.

2 . When needed, measure the appropriate amount and lightly toast the powder in a dry saute pan until you can smell the aromas of the spices. Quickly transfer the toasted powder to a cool pan or container so that it does not continue to cook and burn.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

This chili powder should not be confused w ith the ground chiles called fo r in some recipes.

Fines Herbes

Makes

Makes

2

oz/s7 g

2

oz/ 5 7 g

V A o z/4 3 g cumin seeds

V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped chervil leaves

V 2 o z/1 4 g coriander seeds

V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives

'A o z/1 4 g ground turmeric

V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley leaves

2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cinnamon

'/ 2

o z/1 4 g chopped tarragon leaves

2 tb s p /1 2 g ground ginger

Combine all the herbs and mix well. Store in a

2 ts p /8 g mustard seeds

tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 1 to 2

8 dried red chiles

days or use as needed.

1 . Combine all the spices. Roast in a 350°F/i77°C oven

NOTES: Add marjoram, savory, lavender, or watercress to the

until fragrant, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and

herb m ixture to adjust the flavor, if desired.

cool slightly. Split the chiles and remove and discard

Fines herbes should be added near the end o f cooking tim e because they do not hold th e ir flavo r long.

the stems and seeds.

2.. Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and grind them to a medium-fine powder. Store in a

mise en place recipes

Curry Powder

Typical uses include flavoring fo r omelets or crepes, or as the fina l addition to soups and consommes.

tightly sealed container and use within 1 month. NOTE: Add paprika, cloves, or fresh curry leaves to the blend, if desired.

Quatre Epices Makes

2

oz/5 y g

V A o z/3 5 g black peppercorns 'A o z/1 4 g ground nutmeg 1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon 2 ts p /4 g cloves

Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly sealed container and use within 1 month.

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M EAT S, POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

369

Red Curry Paste

Green Curry Paste

Makes 2 oz/57 g

Makes

2

OZI5 7 S

V 2 o z/1 4 g red bird chiles

1A ts p /0 .5 0 g cumin seeds

4 dried New Mexico or guajillo chiles, stemmed, cut into several pieces

V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds

V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds 'A ts p /0.50 g white peppercorns 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced 1 tb sp /9 g thinly sliced lemongrass V / 2 ts p /4.50 g thinly sliced galangal V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest 1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems

5 white peppercorns 1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 5 green Thai chiles, stems and seeds removed V 2 o z/1 4 g thinly sliced lemongrass V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems V 2 tsp /1 g sliced galangal V 2 ts p /1.50 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available 1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped V 2 tsp /1 g shrimp paste V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt

1 ts p /2 g Thai shrimp paste V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt 2 f I o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed

1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra­ grant, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

1 . Soak the dried chiles in hot water for 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2 . Combine the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in a small saute pan. Toast over medium heat until fra­ grant, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool.

3 . Using a clean spice grinder, grind the toasted spices to a medium-fine powder and set aside.

4 . Place the chiles, garlic, shallots, lemongrass, ga­ langal, lime zest, lime leaves, cilantro root, shrimp paste, salt, and water in a blender and grind into a fine paste.

5 . Add the ground spices and blend together until smooth, adding more water if necessary. 6 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.

370

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same manner. Combine with the cumin and coriander.

3 . Grind the toasted spices a clean spice grinder to a medium-fine powder and reserve until needed.

4 . Place the shallots, garlic, chiles, lemongrass, cilantro root, galangal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and salt in a blender and grind into a fine paste.

5 . Add the ground spices and blend until smooth. 6 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.

V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds

Seasoning Mix fo r Spit-Roasted Meats and Poultry

2 white peppercorns

Makes 2/4 oz/64 g

Makes 2 oz/57 g V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds

V 2 o z/1 4 g Thai chiles, stemmed, split, and seeded

1 o z/3 5 g salt

2 garlic cloves, sliced

2 tb s p /1 2 g dry mustard

2 medium shallots, sliced

2'/z ts p /5 g ground black pepper

V A ts p /3 g ground turmeric

V/2 ts p /3 g dried thyme

V/2 ts p /4 .5 0 g thinly sliced galangal

V/2 ts p /3 g dried oregano

V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available

V/2 tsp / 3 g ground coriander

1 or 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped

V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g celery seed

mise en place recipes

Yellow Curry Paste

1 ts p /2 g shrimp paste 1 ts p /3 g salt

Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con­

V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL vegetable oil

tainer and use within 1 month.

1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra­ grant. Transfer to a small bowl.

2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same manner. Add to the cumin and coriander.

3 . Toast the chiles very lightly in the same pan, just until dark spots begin to appear. (Do not let them blacken.) Remove from the pan and set aside.

4 . Toast the garlic and shallots in the same manner. Set aside.

5 . Grind the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in a clean spice grinder to a medium-fine powder and reserve until needed. 6 . Combine the chiles, garlic, shallots, turmeric, ga­ langal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and salt in a blender and grind into a fine paste.

7 . Add the ground spices and oil and blend until smooth. 8 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

371

Asian-Styie Marinade

Fish Marinade

Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

6 f l o z/1 8 0 mL hoisin sauce

12 f I o z /3 6 0 mL olive oil

6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL dry sherry

4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL lemon juice, dry w hite wine, or w h ite verm outh

2 f I o z/6 0 mL rice wine vinegar V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic 2 f I o z /6 0 mL soy sauce 2 t s p / 1 0 g s a lt V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic 2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed

needed.

container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.

Barbecue Marinade 10 f l o z /3 0 0 mL vegetable oil

Red Wine Game Marinade

5 f I o z /1 5 0 mL cider vinegar

Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

2 tb s p /3 0 mL W orcestershire sauce

6 f l o z /1 8 0 mL dry red wine

1 tb s p /1 5 g brown sugar

5 o z /1 4 2 g diced onions

2 ts p / 6 g minced garlic

V / 2 o z /4 3 g diced celery

2 t s p / 4 g dry m ustard

I V 2 o z /4 3 g diced carro ts

1 ts p /5 mLTabasco sauce

2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil

1 ts p / 2 g ga rlic powder

2 tb s p /3 0 mL red wine vinegar

1 ts p / 2 g onion powder

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 1 ts p / 2 g dried thym e

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.

V2 ts p /1 g ju nip er berries V 2 ts p /1 g dried savory V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper 1 to 2 parsley sprigs 1 bay le a f

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or 2 to 3 days or use as needed.

372

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Makes 16 fl

0Z/480

Latin Citrus Marinade

mL

( M o jo ) 4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry red wine

Makes

1 6 f l 0Z/480

mL

4 f l o z /1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar 9 f l o z /2 7 0 mL orange juice

2 f l o z /6 0 mL olive oil

41/> f l o z /1 3 5 mL lemon juice

lt b s p / 1 5 g sugar

3 tb s p /4 5 mL lim e juice l t b s p / 6 g dried m int A 'A ts p / 8 g ground annato seeds lt s p / 3 g s a l t r / 2t s p / 5 g s a lt 1 ts p / 2 g ju n ip e r berries 1 ts p /3 g chopped garlic 2 bay leaves 2 onion slices, V 2 in /1 .5 cm th ick

3A ts p /1 .5 0 g dried oregano 3A ts p /1 .5 0 g ground cumin

mise en place recipes

Lamb Marinade

1 parsley sprig 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves 1 thym e sprig 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon 1 ga rlic clove, minced 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper Pinch ground nutm eg

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLACE FOR M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

373

Red Wine Marinade fo r Grilled Meats Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

Teriyaki Marinade Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL soy sauce 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL peanut oil

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL olive oil 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 1 ts p /3 g salt

3 f I o z/9 0 mL dry sherry 1 o z/2 8 g honey 2 tb s p /1 8 g grated orange zest (optional) 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 2 ts p /6 g grated ginger

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients, including the orange Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed

zest, if desired. Store in a tightly sealed container

container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as

and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.

needed.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

abricating meats,

oultry, and fish Meat, poultry, and fish are the most costly part of the food budget of a foodservice operation, no matter the establishment's scale. Generally, the size and scope of the operation determine the form in which it purchases meats, poultry, and fish. For operations with limited labor and storage resources, quality prefabricated boxed meats, poultry, and fish are an acceptable purchasing form.

CH A P T E R 1 6

C h efs w it h t h e m e a n s to do so o f t e n TO C O N T R O L

P O R T IO N

e s t a b l i s h m e n t 's

S IZE A N D

prefer

to

p er fo r m

m a n y

f a b r ic a t io n

Q .U A L IT Y — IM P O R T A N T C O N S ID E R A T IO N S W H E N

tasks

in

-house

I T C O M E S TO T H E

REPU TATIO N.

meat fabrication Depending on th e p re va ilin g local m a rke t rates fo r fo o d and labor, in-house fa b ric a tio n may be less expensive than buying p re fa b ric a te d menu cuts. As a fu rth e r econom ic ben­ e fit, trim and bones can be used to prepare o th e r dishes (e.g., stocks, soups, sauces, and forcem e ats). General s im ila ritie s e x is t betw een cuts o f beef, veal, lamb, venison, and po rk if they come fro m the same p a rts o f th e butchered animal. M uscle sections th a t are used more fre q u e n tly or p e rfo rm arduous ta sks w ill be to u g h e r than m ore se d e n ta ry m uscle groups. M uscles th a t are located along th e back are used less fre q u e n tly than m uscles th a t are at the e x tre m itie s . T here fore, the rib and th e loin contain the m o st te n d e r cuts. They ten d to co st m ore than cuts fro m th e shoulder, which are o fte n m ore exercised and tougher. The leg may contain te n d e r cuts as w e ll as cuts th a t are q u ite tough. The age and m ethod o f raising the anim al also de te rm in e a level o f tenderness. W hat may be considered a q u a lity cut in one species can be q u ite tou gh in an othe r animal. P roper handling during fa b ric a tio n prepares m eats fo r subsequent cooking. The basic techniques include trim m in g , boning, p o rtio n cu ttin g , ten derizing , grinding, and tyin g . M ost o f the techniques described here do n o t req uire any special know ledge o f th e bones in a cut o f m eat or o f th e anim al’s overall anatom y, although reference to sections o f C hapter 6 , M eat, P oultry, and Game Id e n tific a tio n , w ill be helpful.

376

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

fabricating m eat

Trimming a tenderloin A whole pork loin often costs less per pound than a trimmed boneless loin. Removing the fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim can then be roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take some time at first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or cutlets. 1.

L ift and pull aw ay th e chain o f an u n trim m e d te n d e rlo in . This chain pulls

away easily; use th e blade o f a boning k n ife to ste a d y th e te n d e rlo in as the chain is pulled away. If necessary, use the boning k n ife to help rem ove it fro m th e te n d e rlo in .

2.

C o m p le te ly rem ove th e m em brane, collagen, and silverskin . W ork so

th a t your cu ts move to w a rd th e head (the la rg e r end o f th e te n d e rlo in ). This tough m em brane, w hich g e ts its name fro m its som ew hat silv e ry color, ten ds to shrink when exposed to heat and causes uneven cooking. W ork th e to p o f a boning k n ife under th e silve rskin and hold it t ig h t against the m eat. Glide the k n ife blade ju s t underneath, angling the blade upward s lig h tly ag ainst the silverskin . A te n d e rlo in o f b e e f is shown here, b u t the same tech niq ue s can be ap plied to pork, veal, and lam b te n d e rlo in , as w ell as to o th e r cuts o f m ea t w ith silverskin , includ in g to p round o f b e e f and veal and loin cuts o f venison and o th e r large game.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

377

Shaping a medallion Boneless cuts from the tenderloin of beef and the loin or tenderloin of veal, lamb, or pork may be called medallions, noisettes (so named because they are like little nuts of meat), or grenadins (large cuts from the loin). The terms noisette and medallion are often used interchangeably to refer to a small, bone­

less tender cut of meat weighing from 2 to 6 oz/57 to 170 g. Tournedos and Chateaubriand are special terms generally used only for beef tenderloin cuts.

Tournedos are typically cut from the thinner end of the tenderloin to weigh 5 oz/142 g. Chateaubriand serves two and is cut from the center of the tender­ loin; it typically weighs 10 oz/284 g. After the medallions or similar boneless cuts are portioned, they may then be wrapped in cheesecloth and molded to give them a compact, uniform shape. Not only does this give the meat a more pleasing appearance, it also helps the medallion cook evenly. Gather the cheesecloth together and twist to tighten it around the meat. As you twist the cloth with one hand, press down on the meat firmly, with even, moderate pressure, using the broad side of a knife blade or a similar flat object. The medallions on the left have been shaped and are of a more uniform size.

378

MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH

Fabricating boneless meats Meats to be sauteed or pan fried, grilled, or stewed are often fabricated from larger boneless cuts such as rounds, loins, and/or tenderloins. These cuts are typically composed of more than one muscle. Each muscle has its own grain (direction) in which the meat fibers are arranged. Breaking a larger cut into individual sections allows the chef to cut each piece of meat properly for the recipe or menu item. 1.

To d ivid e la rg e r cuts (veal to p round shown here), fo llo w th e na tural

m uscle seam s— th e y a ct as a roadm ap to d e fin e s p e c ific cuts. This makes it possible to c u t each m uscle across the grain and ea sily trim o u t any connec­ tiv e tissu e o r fa t.

2.

Using th e same tech niq ue as de scrib ed fo r a b e e f te n d e rlo in , trim away

th e f a t and silve rskin . Pay a tte n tio n to th e angle o f the k n ife blade. It should be angled upw ard to p re ve n t rem o ving edible m eat.

3.

C u ttin g th e m ea t across th e grain produces a cu t o f m ea t th a t is less

tou gh than a piece cu t w ith the grain.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

379

Shredding and mincing

Cutting and pounding cutlets

The French word for this cut is

A meat cutlet or scallop is a thin boneless cut of meat prepared from the loin,

emince, or “cut into slivers.” Meat is

the tenderloin, or any other sufficiently tender cut of meat such as the top

cut across the grain into thin strips

round. Cutlet, scaloppine in Italian, and escalope in French are different words

of a length and width appropriate for

for the same cut and are used depending on a menu’s particular style. Cutlets

the dish. Since the meat is generally

are typically cut across the grain and on the bias. Cutlets are often pounded to ensure an even thickness over their entire

sauteed, the cut should be one of the most tender. This technique can be

area so that they can be rapidly sauteed or pan fried. A paillard is a pounded

used for beef, lamb, and even pork.

cutlet that is grilled rather than sauteed or pan fried. Adjust the weight of the

Be sure to trim the meat completely

mallet and strength of the blow to match the delicacy of the meat. Turkey cut­

before cutting it into emince. Once

lets (slices of turkey breast), for example, require a more delicate touch than

cut, the emince may be pounded, if

pork cutlets. Be careful not to tear or overstretch the meat while pounding it.

appropriate, using the same tech­ nique as for pounding cutlets. Blot

1 .

the pounded emince dry before

cum ference. Using a s c im ita r k n ife is n o t a b s o lu te ly necessary, b u t w ill help

cooking.

to p re ve n t te a rs in th e m eat when c u ttin g .

2.

Cut pieces o f the same w e ig h t (ge ne rally 1 to 4 o z /2 8 to 113 g) and c ir­

Place th e m ea t in betw een layers o f p la s tic wrap. Use a pounding and

pu llin g m o tio n to evenly th in th e c u tle t. Increased surface area and decreased th ickn e ss p ro m o te rapid cooking.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

fabricating m eat

Cutting bone-in chops Chops and steaks are made from bone-in cuts from the rib or loin. Large bones can be difficult to saw through, but the bones of cuts from the rib and loin of pork, lamb, venison, and beef are more manageable. 1.

Cut away th e backbone, o fte n re fe rre d to as th e chine bone, using a

handsaw. C o m p le te ly sever th e bone fro m th e rib bones w ith o u t c u ttin g in to the m eat muscle.

2.

Using you r g u id in g hand to hold th e chine bone away fro m th e m eat, w o rk

w ith th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make sm oo th stro k e s along th e fe a th e r bones, c u ttin g the m ea t cleanly away fro m the bones.

3.

Cut betw een each rib bone w ith a s c im ita r or c h e fs k n ife to make in d i­

vid ua l chops. W hen c u ttin g th ro u g h th e m eat, use even pressure to cre a te a sm oo th surface on th e chops.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

381

#

Trimming a strip loin and cutting boneless steaks Steaks cut in-house can keep the kitchen’s food cost down. Cuts must be made evenly to guarantee even cooking time. 1.

The s trip loin has a ta il, so m e tim e s re fe rre d to as a lip, running along

one edge o f th e m uscle. C ut away th is heavy layer o f fa t fir s t, ta k in g care not to cut th e in te rio r loin muscle. Hold th is fa t cover ta u t as you run th e kn ife blade down the le ng th o f th e loin, angling th e blade up s lig h tly . Remove I V 2 to 2 in /4 to 5 cm o f th e fa t cover.

2.

A s trip loin m ay have a se ctio n known as th e chain. Once th e fa t cover is

trim m e d to the desired thickn ess, rem ove th e chain. Reserve it fo r a n othe r use.

3.

The ch e f is c u ttin g steaks fro m th e rib end o f th e s trip loin. The ste a k on

the le ft has been cu t fro m th is end. The V -shaped s tre a k o f collagen was re ­ moved and the ste a k on th e rig h t was cu t fro m th e s irlo in end. W hile stea ks cut fro m th is end are as te n d e r as th o se cu t fro m th e rib end, th e collagen its e lf is tough, and can give th e im p ressio n th a t th e ste a k is tough. These stea ks are som e tim es re fe rre d to as vein steaks. A d ju s t th e th ickn e ss o f th e cu t to produce equal-size stea ks o f th e desired w e igh t. R e frig e ra te c u t stea ks u n til ready to cook.

382

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

fabricating m eat

Trimming and boning a pork loin A whole pork loin often costs less than a trimmed boneless loin. Removing the fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim can then be roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take some time at first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or cutlets. 1 .

The novice should c u t s lo w ly and sto p to exam ine the loin betw een cuts.

The f ir s t s te p when w o rk in g w ith a p o rk loin is to rem ove th e te n d e rlo in , if it is s till in ta c t. N ext, c u t aw ay th e fa t cover to th e de sire d th ickn e ss. Make sm oo th s tro k e s along th e rib bones to fre e the m eat, as shown here. Pull the bones away fro m th e m ea t w ith your g u id in g hand to make it easy to see and pre ve n t cuts in to th e edib le m eat. Pass th e k n ife close to th e bones, scraping the m clean so th a t as litt le m ea t as po ssib le is le ft on th e bones.

2.

Use th e tip o f th e k n ife to cu t around jo in ts and be tw ee n bones, and use

th e f la t p a rt o f th e blade f o r longer, sw eeping s tro ke s. Near th e b o tto m o f the rib bones is a knob-shaped ridge o r ste p th a t m u st be cu t around to c o m p le te ­ ly rem ove th e m ea t fro m th e bone. It has a lm o st a rig h t angle th a t m u st be cut around. Take care n o t to cu t in to th e ed ib le m e a t when c u ttin g around th e step. Once th e loin has been trim m e d and boned, it can be used to pre pa re a w ide v a rie ty o f menu cuts in clud in g m edallions, c u tle ts , and em ince.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

383

1

Boning a leg of lamb Although this procedure may look difficult, it is possible to do it successfully by following the steps shown in the accompanying illustrations. The leg is covered with a layer of fat and a membrane known as the fell. The fat and membrane should be removed carefully, leaving as much edible meat intact as possible. A leg of lamb can be boned out to use in a number of different ways. It can be butterflied and grilled, or rolled, tied, and roasted. The meat can be divided along the natural seams to make small roasts, or sliced into cutlets or cubes. 1.

The leg con tain s th e hind shank bone, the pe lvic bones (co n sistin g o f

the hip bone and th e aitch bone), a p o rtio n o f th e backbone and ta il, and the leg bone (also known as th e fem ur).

2.

W ork the tip o f th e k n ife around th e pe lvic bone. As you cu t in to th e m eat

to rem ove the bones, use an overhand g rip to hold your boning k n ife and cut w ith the tip o f the blade as you w o rk around bones and jo in ts . W ork the kn ife tip along th e bone to rem ove as much m ea t as possible fro m th e bone.

384

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

& 1-4

I—*• n p

c+ i—*•

P

QTQ rD

p

3 .

When th e m ea t has been fre e d fro m th e p e lvic bone, l i f t th e bone up

and away fro m th e leg.

4.

Make a cut down th e shank bone and cu t th e m ea t cleanly away fro m

th e bone.

5 .

A fte r fre e in g th e m ea t fro m th e shank bone, cu t around th e fe m u r to

rem ove th e bones fro m th e m eat.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

385

Frenching a rack of lamb This technique is one of the more complicated fabrication techniques, but it is not especially difficult to master. Trimmed and frenched racks or chops can be ordered from a meat purveyor, of course, but the chef can exercise greater control over trim loss if the work is done in the kitchen. The same technique can be used to french individual rib chops of lamb, veal, or pork. Any lean trim can be used to prepare jus or a stock. 1 .

Make an even cu t th ro u g h th e fa t cove rin g all the way down to th e bone.

The cut should be ab ou t 1 in /3 cm fro m th e m eat's eye.

2.

S et th e rack on one end and make a sta b b in g cut betw een each p a ir o f

bones, using th e in itia l cut as a guide.

386

MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH

fabricating m eat

4

3.

Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to score th e th in m em brane cove rin g the

bones. This w ill allow th e bones to break th ro u g h th e m em brane easily.

4.

Push th e bones th ro u g h th e m em brane. Use your fin g e rs to s ta b iliz e the

b o tto m o f th e rack w h ile p e eling away th e cu t m em branes and pushing th e bones o u t w ith you r thum bs.

5 .

Lay th e rack so th a t th e bones are fa cin g down. M ake an even cu t to sever

th e fa t cap and m e a t su rro u n d in g th e bone ends. It should pu ll away easily.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

387

2

Tying a roast Tying a roast with secure knots that have the right tension is one of the simplest and most frequently required types of meat fabrication. It ensures that the roast will cook evenly and that it will retain its shape after roasting. As long as the string is taut enough to give the roast a compact shape, without being too tight, the result will be fine. Leave the string very long so that it will wrap easily around the entire diameter and length of the meat. Or leave the string attached to the spool and cut it only when the entire roast has been tied. te c h n iq u e o n e For this technique, the string is left attached to the spool rather than cut into lengths. To start tying the roast, tie the end of the string around the thicker end of the meat (any knot that holds securely may be used). 1.

Pass th e s trin g around your o u tsp re a d fin g e rs and th u m b so th a t the

s trin g crosses its e lf and m akes an X.

2.

Spread your hand open to enlarge th e loop.

3.

C ontinue to enlarge the loop u n til it is w ide enough to pass ea sily around

th e th ic k e r end o f th e m eat, co m p le te ly e n circlin g it.

4.

Encircle th e m eat w ith th e loop, m aking sure th a t the kn o ts are spaced

evenly a p a rt fro m one another.

388

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

n

p c+ i—*•

3

Orq

D .

Pull th e loose end o f th e s trin g u n til th e loop is secu rely tig h te n e d around

the m eat. N o te th a t th e s trin g has fo rm e d a h a lf h itch kn o t a t th is p o in t. Con­ tin u e u n til th e e n tire piece o f m ea t has been secured w ith loops.

6 .

Turn th e piece o f m ea t over. Pass th e loose end o f th e s trin g th ro u g h the

loop, then pass it back around and underneath the loop. Pull th e s trin g tig h t and con tinu e down th e le ng th o f th e m eat.

7.

Once th e s trin g has been w ra pp ed around each loop fro m one end to th e

other, tu rn th e m ea t back over. Cut th e loose end and tie th e s trin g secu rely to the f ir s t loop.

te c h n iq u e t w o For this tying technique, cut several lengths of string. Each piece should be long enough to wrap completely around the meat with sufficient additional length to tie a series of double knots. There are other methods used for tying roasts than the two shown here. If you have the chance to learn other methods, you will be better able to adapt to tying different cuts of meat with ease. Both techniques illustrated here work for both boneless and bone-in roasts. The choice of technique is a matter of personal preference. Technique tw o

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H

389

variety meats In re ce n t years, as A m ericans have becom e less squea­

the tongue in a fla v o rfu l b ro th or bouillon, and it w ill be­

m ish ab o u t organ m eats, th e dem and f o r p ro p e rly

come very tender. L e t th e tongue cool in the cooking liquid

pre pa red liver, kidneys, tongue, sw e etbre ads, and o th e r

to b o ls te r its flavor. Once the tongue is cooled, care fu lly

kinds o f v a rie ty m eats has grow n. Because the se cuts

peel it to remove the skin. You can peel it away easily

are d iffic u lt to fin d in a g ro ce ry s to re o r even a butcher's

fro m the tip o f the tongue using ju s t your fingers. The skin

shop, many people are u n c o m fo rta b le w ith o r unsure o f

clings m ore tig h tly near the base o f the tongue, so it may

p ro p e r p re p a ra tio n techniques.

be necessary to use a paring kn ife to remove the rem ain­ ing skin fro m the base and underside o f the tongue.

liv e r

Once peeled, tongue can be used in a v a rie ty o f ways:

Prepare live r b e fo re coo kin g by rem o ving any silverskin ,

It can be cu t in to ju lie nn e o r dice and used as a garnish

to u g h m em branes, veins, and g ris tle . W hen su b je cte d to

f o r sauces, soups, o r pates. It m ay be sliced th in ly and

in te nse heat, silve rskin shrinks m ore ra p id ly tha n m eat,

served h o t o r cold, o r used as a liner fo r te rrin e molds.

m aking th e liv e r pu cker and cook unevenly.

m a rro w k id n e y s

M a rro w — the s o ft inner substance o f bones— is o fte n

The unique fla v o r o f kidneys w ill com e th ro u g h as long

used as a garnish f o r soups, sauces, and o th e r dishes.

as th e y are p e rfe c tly fre s h and p ro p e rly handled. Soak

C ertain bones, known as m a rro w bones, have a s ig n ifi­

kidneys in sa lte d w a te r f o r 12 hours, the n rinse w e ll and

can t am ount o f m arro w th a t is re la tiv e ly easy to rem ove

soak in m ilk f o r a n o th e r 12 to 2 4 hours. Rinse th e k id ­

using th e fo llo w in g technique: Subm erge th e m arro w

neys, the n cu t the m in h a lf and rem ove all o f th e fa t and

bones in cold, sa lte d w a te r f o r a fe w hours to remove

veins. In some cases, recipes may in d ica te th a t th e k id ­

th e excess bloo d and im p u ritie s . A fte r th e y have soaked,

neys be blanched fir s t. Peel th e kidneys by pu llin g away

push th e m arro w o u t w ith your thum b.

th e m em brane covering them .

s w e e tb re a d s to n g u e

S w e etbre ad s are th e thym us gland o f veal. It is a s o ft-

Tongue is quite a tough muscle. This cut o f m eat may be

s tru c tu re d gland th a t can be cu t w ith a fo rk , when

sold w ith the skin or may be smoked. It is easier to remove

p ro p e rly prepared. This p a rtic u la r o ffa l is considered a

the skin fro m the cooked sm oked tongue. G ently sim m er

de lica cy and w a rra n ts a high cost.

Tongue

390

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Marrow

c r i—*• n

p r+ i—*•

P

Orq n>

p

Sweetbreads need to be thoroughly rinsed in cold water to remove all traces of blood. They are then blanched in a court bouillon, peeled, and pressed to give them a firmer, more appealing texture. The sweetbreads can then be pre­ pared a la meuniere (floured and sauteed). Sweetbreads are used to prepare terrines. 1 .

S w e etbre ad s need to be th o ro u g h ly rinsed in cold w a te r to rem ove all

tra ce s o f blood. Blanch th e m in enough c o u rt bo u illo n to cover.

2.

A fte r blanching th e sw e etbre ads, le t the m cool enough to handle easily.

Pull away the m em brane cove rin g th e m eat.

3.

R oll th e peeled lobes tig h tly in che ese cloth to give th e sw e e tb re a d s a

firm e r, m ore ap pe aling te x tu re . Place th e sw e etbre ads in a p e rfo ra te d h o te l pan (as shown), place w e ig h t on to p o f them , and press th e sw e e tb re a d s under re frig e ra tio n f o r several hours.

4.

The pressed sw e e tb re a d s should be firm , com pact, and able to be sliced

easily. The s w e e tb re a d s can be p re pa red a la m euniere (flo u re d and sauteed) or used in te rrin e s and o th e r pre p a ra tio n s.

Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H

391

FROM LEFTTO RIGHT: Grinder housing or grinder body, worm, blade, d iffe re n t size dies, collar.

Meats ground w ith d iffe re n t-size dies FROM LEFTTO RIGHT: Meats ground w ith a coarse die, medium die, and fine die.

Grinding meat Grinding meat calls for scrupulous attention to safe food handling practices (see page 31). This fabrication technique applies to poultry and fish as well as meats. Observe the following procedures for best results: » Unplug th e g rin d e r b e fo re asse m bling o r disassem bling. » Clean th e g rin d e r w e ll and p u t it to g e th e r c o rre c tly . M ake sure th a t the blade is s ittin g flu s h ag ainst th e die. In th is p o s itio n , th e blade cuts the fo o d neatly, ra th e r than te a rin g or sh re d d in g it. » Cut th e m e a t in to dice o r s trip s th a t w ill f i t ea sily th ro u g h th e g rind er's fe e d tube. » C hill m ea ts th o ro u g h ly b e fo re g rind ing . C hill all g rin d e r p a rts th a t w ill come in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d by e ith e r re frig e ra tin g th e m or sub m erg ing the m in ice w ater. » Do n o t fo rc e th e m ea t th ro u g h th e fe e d tu b e w ith a tam per. If th e y are th e c o rre c t size, th e pieces w ill be drawn e a sily by th e worm . » Be sure th a t th e blade is sharp. M e a t should be cu t cleanly, never m angled or mashed, as it passes th ro u g h th e grinder. » For all b u t v e ry d e lic a te m ea ts (salm on o r o th e r fish , f o r exam ple), begin w ith a die w ith large openings. The m ea t w ill ap pe ar q u ite coarse. » G rind th ro u g h p ro g re s s iv e ly sm a lle r dies u n til th e de sire d co n siste n cy is achieved. » A fin a l pass th ro u g h a fin e die gives th e ground m ea t a m ore re fin e d te x ­ tu re , and fu rth e r blends th e lean m ea t and fa t.

392

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

o u ltr y

,

a lw a y s

p o p u la r

a n d

readily a v a ila b le

,

is a m o n g

the

le a s t c o stly meats

used

for

E N T R E E S A N D O T H E R M E N U I T E M S . F A B R I C A T I O N T E C H N I Q U E S A R E D E M O N S T R A T E D H E R E ON A C H I C K E N , T H E B I R D M O S T C O M M O N L Y U S E D IN R E S T A U R A N T S . T H E S E T E C H N I Q U E S C A N B E A P P L I E D TO V I R T U A L L Y A L L PO U LT R Y T Y P E S , NOT O N L Y CHI CK E N BUT SQ UA B , DUCK, P H E AS A N T, T U R K E Y , AN D QUAIL, WITH S O M E M O D I F I C A T I O N F O R S I Z E ( S M A L L E R BI RDS R E Q U I R E M O R E D E LI C A T E , P R E C I S E CUTS; L A R G E R OR O L D E R B I R D S , A H E A V I E R B L A D E A N D G R E A T E R P R E S S U R E TO B R E A K T H R O U G H T O U G H J O I N T S A N D S I N E w ) .

poultry fabrication

fabricating poultry

P

The goose is ty p ic a lly la rge r than the duck o r chicken, b u t th e bone s tru c tu re is simitar. The d iffic u lty in fa b ric a tio n lies in th e fa c t th a t th e goose is v e ry fa tty , m aking th e d e fin itio n o f w here to cut a little challenging. The younger the bird, the easier it is to cut up. Young birds are usually much sm aller and th e ir bones have n o t com p le te ly hardened. The size and breed o f the b ird w ill also have som e bearing on how easy or d iffic u lt it is to fa b ric a te . Chickens are ge ne rally fa r sim p le r to cu t up, fo r exam ple, than are pheasant. The ten don s and ligam e nts in chicken are less w ell developed, exce pt in the case o f fre e -ra n g e birds, which move fre e ly ab ou t an enclosed pen or yard. When fa b ric a tin g , pay close a tte n tio n to fo o d s a fe ty reg ulation s. Some kitche ns use co lo r-co d e d c u ttin g boards to avoid cross c o n ta m in a tio n betw een m eat, p o u ltry , fish, and vegetables. Regardless o f th e m a te ria l th a t c u ttin g boards are made o f (wood or p lastic resin), th e y w ill rem ain sa n ita ry if p ro p e rly cleaned.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

393

Preparing a supreme A supreme is a semiboneless poultry breast half, usually from a chicken, pheasant, partridge, or duck, so named because it is the best (supreme) por­ tion. One wing joint, often frenched, is left attached to the breast meat.

If

the skin is removed from the supreme, it may be referred to as a cotelette. Supremes may be sauteed, poached, or grilled. To prepare a chicken supreme from a whole chicken by this technique, you must cut away the wing tip and remove the legs. The breast meat and the first joint of the wing are then cut away from the bird’s carcass. Reserve the carcass for stock or broth. 1 .

Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make a cu t th a t circles around th e sec­

ond jo in t o f th e w ing bone. M ake sure to c u t th ro u g h th e web skin as well. Bend th e w ing bone at th e second jo in t to snap it. C ontinue to c u t th ro u g h th e jo in t u n til th e w ing tip and w ing fla p are rem oved, leaving th e d ru m e tte a tta ch e d to th e breast.

2.

Cut th ro u g h the skin betw een th e th ig h and the breast.

3.

Bend th e leg backw ard, away fro m the body, to expose th e ba ll socket.

M ake a cu t th a t runs along th e backbone to th e ball and socket, as shown. Hold th e chicken sta b le w ith th e heel o f you r kn ife , and pu ll th e leg away fro m the body firm ly and evenly. This w ill rem ove th e leg and th e o y s te r cleanly fro m the backbone s tru c tu re . Repeat on th e o th e r side.

4.

W ith th e b re a s t fa c in g up, cu t along e ith e r side o f the keel bone w ith a

kn ife . Use your g u id in g hand to s te a d y th e bird.

394

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

4

fabricating poultry

5.

Remove th e b re a s t m ea t fro m

th e rib cage w ith d e lic a te cuts. Use the tip o f th e k n ife to fre e th e m eat fro m th e bones, running th e t ip along th e bones f o r th e b e s t yield.

6 .

Trim excess skin away fro m the

breast, m aking sure to keep enough skin in ta c t to cover the chicken breast.

7.

Use the blade to scrape the

m eat o f f th e rem a ining w ing bone to expose th e bone co m p le te ly. This is known as fre n ch in g th e bone. It is not a b s o lu te ly necessary to fre n c h the bone o f a suprem e.

8 .

The suprem e on th e le ft does

n o t have a fre n ch e d bone w h ile the

8

suprem e on th e rig h t does have the excess m ea t rem oved.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H

395

2

Trussing poultry The object of trussing or tying any bird is to give it a smooth, compact shape so that it will cook evenly and retain moisture. Several different methods for trussing poultry exist, some involving trussing needles, some requiring only string. One simple way of tying with string is shown here. 1.

Cut away th e w ing tip and w ing fla p . Pass the m id dle o f a piece o f s trin g

u n derneath th e jo in ts a t th e end o f th e d ru m sticks, and cross th e ends o f the s trin g to make an X. Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g down to w a rd th e ta il to loop th e s trin g around the jo in ts .

2 .

Pull bo th ends o f th e s trin g tig h tly across the jo in t th a t connects the

d ru m s tic k and th e th ig h and con tinu e to pull th e s trin g along th e body to w a rd th e bird's back, ca tch in g th e w ing u n derneath the string .

3.

Flip the bird over and pu ll th e s trin g tig h t. M ake an X across th e w ings to

hold the m tig h tly against the bird.

396

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

3

fabricating poultry 5

4.

Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g un derneath th e backbone a t th e neck opening.

Tie the tw o ends o f th e s trin g w ith a secure knot.

5 .

The fr o n t and re a rv ie w s o f a p ro p e rly tru s s e d bird.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH

397

Halving and quartering poultry Chicken and other birds may be halved or quartered before or after cook­ ing. Smaller birds, such as Cornish game hens and broiler chickens that are to be grilled are often halved. These birds are small enough to cook through completely before the skin becomes scorched or charred. If the bones are left intact during grilling, they provide some protection against shrinkage. In many restaurants, the ducks needed for an evening’s service will be roasted in advance, then halved and partially deboned; then at service it is necessary only to reheat the duck and crisp the skin in a hot oven. 1 .

Cut fro m th e ta il to th e neck opening down e ith e r side o f th e backbone.

Pull upw ard s lig h tly w hile c u ttin g down, e x e rtin g enough pressure to cut th ro u g h th e rib bones.

2.

Lay o u t th e w hole bre ast, w ith th e bones fa cin g up. Use th e tip o f a bon­

ing k n ife to cu t th ro u g h the w h ite c a rtila g e a t th e ve ry to p o f th e keel bone.

398

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

fabricating poultry

3.

Open th e b re a s t like a book. This bending a ctio n w ill expose th e keel

bone. Grab th e keel bone fir m ly and pull it and th e a tta ch e d c a rtila g e away fro m th e b re a s t m eat. The c a rtila g e may break away fro m th e keel bone. Be sure to rem ove th e e n tire s tru c tu re .

4.

Cut th e chicken in to halves by m aking a cu t down th e c e n te r o f th e bird.

5 .

S ep ara te th e leg and th ig h fro m th e b re a s t and w ing by c u ttin g th ro u g h

th e skin ju s t above w here th e b re a s t and th ig h m eet.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

399

3

Disjointing a rabbit The technique for disjointing a rabbit is similar to that for a chicken. Rabbit is a relatively lean, mildly flavored meat. The loin and rib sections are leaner than the legs, in much the same way that chicken breast is leaner than the legs. By removing the legs and shoulder, you can apply two different cook­ ing methods to one rabbit—moist heat for the legs, dry heat for the loin—to achieve the most satisfactory results. 1 .

Spread open th e be lly c a v ity o f th e ra b b it and pull o u t th e kidneys and

liver. Sever any m em brane a tta c h in g th e liv e r to th e cavity. Reserve th e live r fo r an o th e r use, if desired.

2.

Remove th e hind legs by c u ttin g th ro u g h th e jo in t and the n th ro u g h the

m eat to sep ara te th e hind leg fro m th e loin.

3.

To sep ara te th e fr o n t legs and sho ulder fro m th e re s t o f th e body, pull

th e leg away fro m the body and cut th ro u g h th e jo in t.

400

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

fabricating rabbit 5

4.

Cut away the hind and f r o n t p o rtio n s o f th e loin to produce th e saddle.

5 .

A fu lly d is jo in te d ra b b it is shown here, includ in g th e hind legs (top), sad­

dle, liver, kidneys, and fo re le g /s h o u ld e r sections.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

401

M

uch

of

the

fish

pu r c h a sed

by

c h e fs

is

filleted

either

by

han d

or

w ith

specialized

FIL LE TI N G M A CH IN E S . T H E S E FISH F IL L ET S HA V E B E C O M E SO C O M M O N P L A C E THAT W H O L E FISH A RE O F T E N M O R E D I F FI C U L T A N D E X P E N S I V E F OR T H E A V E R A G E C O M M E R C I A L F O O D S E L L E R TO OBTAIN A N D T R A N S P O R T TO T H E L O C A L R E S T A U R A N T O R R E T A I L O P E R A T I O N . W H E N P U R C H A S I N G S E A F O O D F O R A R E S T A U R A N T , W H O L E S A L E S E A F O O D S E L L E R S A R E M U C H B E T T E R E Q . U I P P E D TO H A N D L E W H O L E F I S H A N D U N D E R S T A N D I TS Q . U A L I T Y .

fish fabrication M o s t fis h fa ll in to one o f tw o categories: round o r fla t. Time, pra ctice, and experience w ill help de te rm in e w hich o f a num ber o f techniques to use to fa b ric a te a p a rtic u la r fish . D if­ fe re n t m ethods can achieve v irtu a lly the same resu lts, and th e m ethods shown here are n o t always the only way to proceed. The re a lity is th a t f ille tin g fis h is a messy process th a t take s tim e , space, and skill, b u t freshn ess in d ica to rs such as clear eyes, aroma, b rig h t gills, and firm n e ss o f th e fle sh cannot be evaluated if th e fis h is n o t whole. A long w ith evalua­ tio n o f th e q u a lity and freshness, it is much easier to d e te rm in e the species by lo okin g a t a w hole fis h as opposed to fille ts , w ith th e added advantage th a t th e le fto v e r bones can be used to make valuable fis h stock. The basic procedure f o r scaling— th e f ir s t ste p in p re pa ring the fis h b e fo re any fu rth e r fa b ric a tio n is done— applies to all typ e s o f fish. M etho ds d iffe r slig h tly, however, fo r g u t­ tin g round fis h and f la t fish. S im ilarly, the tech niq ue fo r fille tin g a round fis h is d iffe re n t fro m th a t used fo r a f la t fish. In d e te rm in in g how to fa b ric a te a fis h , know ledge o f th a t p a r­ tic u la r fish's sp e c ific p ro p e rtie s is im p o rta n t (see C hapter 7, Fish and S he llfish Id e n tific a ­ tion ). O th er seafood, including crustaceans (lo bster, shrim p, crayfish , and crab), m ollusks (clams, oysters, and mussels), and cephalopods (squid and octo pus) also m ust be ca re fu lly handled to m aintain q u a lity and wholesom eness.

402

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

c r n

p

>—*• P

QTQ C/3

13-

Scaling and trim m ing fish

Gutting round fish

Most fish—though not all—have

Fish viscera (guts) are typically re­

scales that must be removed as a first

moved soon after the fish is taken

step in fabrication. The best way to

from the water, right on the fishing

remove scales is with a fish scaler;

boat. The enzymes in the viscera

but other tools (such as the dull side

can begin to break down the flesh

of a knife, a table crumber, a spoon

rapidly, leading to spoilage. If a fish

handle) can be used if a scaler is not

has not been gutted, this step should

available. The fins and tails can be

be performed right after it has been

cut away at this point, or later when

scaled.

the fish is gutted. To scale a fish, work from the

To gut a round fish, make a slit in the fish’s belly and pull out the

tail toward the head, gripping the

guts. Rinse the belly cavity thorough­

fish by the tail, and allow water to

ly under cold running water to re­

flow over the fish to help keep the

move all traces of viscera and blood.

scales from flying around. Do not pinch the fish too tightly as this could bruise the flesh.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

403

Filleting round fish: straight-cut method Fillets are one of the most common fabrications for fish. These boneless and (usually) skinless fish pieces can be sauteed, grilled, baked, formed into paupiettes, or cut into tranches or goujonettes. Round fish are fabricated into two fillets, one from each side of the fish. There are two techniques for filleting a round fish. The first technique is used on soft-boned, round fish like the salmon and trout family and Spanish mack­ erel. The name of the technique for soft-boned round fish is the straight-cut method. The second, for use on hard-boned round fish, is called the up and over technique.

1.

Lay th e fis h on a c u ttin g board w ith the backbone p a rallel to th e w o rk

surface and th e head on th e same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Using a fille tin g knife , cut behind th e head and g ill plates. Angle th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g m o tio n is down and away fro m th e body. This does n o t cu t th e head o f the fis h away fro m th e body.

2.

W ith o u t rem o ving th e kn ife , tu rn it so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is p o in tin g

to w a rd th e ta il o f th e fis h . P o sitio n th e k n ife so th a t th e handle is lo w er than th e tip o f th e blade. This w ill im prove the yie ld by keeping th e knife 's edge aim ed a t the bones, ra th e r than th e fle sh . Run the blade down th e length o f the fish , c u ttin g a g ainst the backbone. Avoid saw ing th e blade back and fo rth .

3.

By c u ttin g evenly and sm oo th ly, you w ill s p lit the ta il, as shown. Lay the

f ille t skin side down on th e w o rk surface o r in a h o te l pan.

404

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

3

P c r i— *• n

p 2 QTQ CA

4.

Turn th e fis h over and re p e a t th e previous step s to rem ove th e second

fille t.

5 .

Remove th e be lly bones by m aking sm oo th stro k e s ag ainst th e bones to

cut the m away cleanly. If necessary, cu t away th e rem n an ts o f th e backbone by running th e blade ju s t un derneath th e line o f th e backbone.

6 .

To rem ove th e skin, lay th e f ille t p a rallel to the edge o f the c u ttin g su r­

face. Hold th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is ag ainst th e skin; pu ll th e skin ta u t w ith you r g u id ing hand as you cu t th e f ille t free.

7.

Lo cate th e pin bones by running a fin g e rtip over th e fille t. Use needle-

nose p lie rs o r tw e e ze rs to pull o u t th e bones. Pull the m o u t in th e d ire c tio n o f the head o f th e f ille t (w ith th e grain) to avoid rip p in g th e flesh .

7

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH

405

Up and over technique fo r round fish The up and over technique may be used only on hard-boned round fish. A filet knife with a flexible blade should be used for this technique. 1.

Lay th e fis h on th e c u ttin g board w ith th e b e lly away fro m you and the

head to w a rd your dom inant, c u ttin g hand. C ut th ro u g h th e belly, under the p e c to ra l fin , and around th e g ill plate, m aking sure to g e t in to th e head.

2.

Score th ro u g h the skin fro m th e head to ta il using one long s troke.

Continue m aking long, s tra ig h t stro k e s along th e back u n til you reach the ce n te r bone.

3.

Flex y ou r k n ife up and over th e c e n te r bone, c u ttin g th ro u g h the pin

bones.

4.

Continue c u ttin g close to th e b e lly bones u n til the f ille t is fre e fro m the

carcass. S kinning is th e same as f o r th e s tra ig h t-c u t m etho d (see page 405).

406

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

c r

*-s

I—** n p

2

GTQ

Eft

C/3

Gutting fla t fish Fish are typically gutted before they are shipped to market. If a fish has not been gutted, this step should be performed immediately after scaling. 1 .

To g u t a f la t fish , cu t around th e head, m aking a V -shaped notch.

2.

Pull th e head away fro m th e body w h ile tw is tin g it s lig h tly . The g u ts w ill

come away w ith th e head. Rinse th e be lly c a v ity th o ro u g h ly under cold running w a te r to rem ove all tra c e s o f visce ra and blood.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

407

1

Filleting fla t fish: making full fille ts Flat fish can be fabricated into two fillets, one from the top and one from the bottom of the fish. 1.

To make tw o fille ts fro m a f la t fish , use a fille tin g k n ife to cut the fle s h

away fro m th e bones, s ta rtin g on an o u te r edge and w o rk in g fro m th e ta il to w a rd th e head.

2.

A d ju s t th e d ire c tio n and le ng th o f you r stro k e s to go over th e rid ge o f

bones in th e c e n te r o f th e fille t. Hold th e f ille t up and away fro m th e bones as you w o rk to see th e bone s tru c tu re . Continue c u ttin g to th e o th e r edge and rem ove th e to p f ille t in a single piece. Repeat on th e o th e r side.

408

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Making four (or quarter) fille ts of fla t fish Flat fish can be fabricated into four fillets by removing the fillet from each side of the backbone on the top and again on the bottom. 1.

P o sitio n th e fis h w ith th e head fa cin g to w a rd you. Cut to one side o f the

ce n te r ridge.

2.

M ake cuts along th e bones, w o rk in g fro m the ce n te r to th e edge.

3.

A fte r th e f ille t is rem oved, you can see th e roe sack and th e b e lly p o rtio n .

These should be trim m e d away fro m the f ille t as p a rt o f its p re p a ra tio n fo r cooking.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

409

Cutting fish into steaks Fish steaks are simply crosscuts of the fish, and are relatively easy to cut. The fish is scaled, gutted, and trimmed of its fins and gills. Steaks can be of virtu­ ally any thickness. Dames, a French term, are thick steaks. There are few flat fish large enough to cut into steaks; however, round fish like salmon are gen­ erally fabricated in this fashion. Starting with a scaled, gutted, and trimmed fish (in this case salmon), use a chef’s knife to make crosswise cuts through the fish to yield steaks of the desired size. Pan-dressed fish are smaller, dressed fish that are usually not cut into steaks and are served whole.

410

MEATS. POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH

fabricating fish

Tranche

Paupiette

Goujonette

A tranche is simply a slice of the

A paupiette is a rolled thin fillet,

The name for this cut is derived from

fillet. It is cut by holding the knife

often—but not necessarily—filled

the French name for a small fish,

at an angle while cutting to expose

with a forcemeat or other stuffing.

the goujon. Goujonettes are small

more surface area and give the piece

Properly prepared, it resembles a

strips cut from a fillet; they are of­

of fish a larger appearance. A tranche

large cork. Paupiettes are generally

ten breaded or dipped in batter and

can be cut from any relatively large

made from lean fish such as flounder

deep-fried. This cut has about the

fillet of fish—for example, salmon or

or sole, although they may also be

same dimensions as an adult’s index

halibut. Though this cut is normally

made from some moderately fatty

finger. Goujonettes are normally cut

associated with sauteed or pan-fried

fish such as trout or salmon. The

from lean white fish such as sole or

dishes, a tranche is often grilled or

most common preparation technique

flounder.

broiled.

for paupiettes is shallow poaching.

Using a very sharp slicer, slice across the fish at approximately a

Make even, finger-size cuts from the prepared fillet by cutting at an angle across the grain of the flesh.

45-degree angle. The greater the angle of the knife, the more surface area will be exposed.

Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S. POULTRY. A N D FISH

4 11

2 Dover sole Dover sole is handled in a special way. Many chefs like to skin the fish before filleting it. The skin is freed from the tail with a filleting knife, then simply pulled away. 1 .

Cut away th e fin s w ith kitche n scissors.

2 .

M ake an in itia l cu t to fre e th e skin fro m the fle s h o f th e ta il. Hold th e ta il

firm ly and pull the skin away b e fo re fille tin g .

412

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

crustaceans

, w i t h j o i n t e d s k e l e t o n s ON T H E

E X T E R I O R OF T H E I R BODI ES; M O LLUSK S, WI TH A S I N G L E ( U N I V A L V E ) OR A H I N G E D ( B I V A L V E ) S H E L L ; A N D CEPHALOPODS, WI TH T E N T A C L E S . L O B S T E R , S H R I M P , C R A Y F I S H , A N D C R A B A R E A L L C R U S T A C E A N S ; M O L L U S K S INCLUDE CLAMS, OYSTERS, AND MUSSELS; SQUID AND OCTOPUS ARE CEP H A LO P O D S .T H E Y ARE A L L PREPARED BEFORE COOKING USING A VARIETY OF FABRICATION TECHNIQUES.

shellfish fabrication

fabricating shellfish

The m ain s h e l l f i s h c a t e g o r i e s a r e a s f o l l o w s :

Working with live lobster Lobster is best when purchased alive. The first step in preparing a lobster to boil or steam is to kill it. Lobsters can also be split before they are broiled or baked. 1.

Leave th e bands on th e lo b ­

ster's claws and lay it, stom ach side down, on a w o rk surface. In se rt the tip o f a chef's k n ife in to the base o f the head. Pull th e k n ife all th e way down th ro u g h th e shell, s p littin g the head in half.

2.

S p lit th e ta il by re ve rsin g th e d i­

re c tio n o f th e lo b s te r and p o s itio n in g th e tip o f th e k n ife a t th e p o in t w here you made you r in itia l cut. Then cut th ro u g h th e shell o f th e ta il section.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

413

■

1

2

Cooked lobster The flesh of a lobster or other crustacean adheres tightly to the shell until it has been cooked. Lobster that will be served out of the shell or used in salads, stuffings, or as a garnish can be cooked whole by steaming, grilling, or deep poaching. Once the lobster is cool enough to handle, the meat can be re­ moved from the shell easily. The edible meat can be removed from a lobster, as shown, to produce a large tail portion and intact claw sections as well as smaller pieces from the knuckles and legs. The lobster’s tomalley (liver) and coral (eggs; only in fe­ males) are removed and used as ingredients in stuffing, sauce, or butter. 1.

Hold th e ta il sectio n secu rely in one hand and hold th e body o f th e lo b ­

s te r w ith th e other. T w ist your hands in o p p o s ite d ire ctio n s, p u llin g th e ta il away fro m th e body.

2.

Use scisso rs to cut down bo th sides o f the underside o f the lo b s te r ta il.

Pull the ta il m ea t o u t o f th e shell. It should come away in one piece.

414

M EATS, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

fabricating shellfish

D.

Use th e heel o r back o f a c h e fs k n ife to crack th e claws.

4.

Use you r fin g e rs to p ry th e shell aw ay fro m th e m eat. The claw m eat

should also com e o u t in a single piece, re ta in in g th e shape o f th e claw.

5.

Use th e k n ife to cu t th ro u g h th e knuckles. Pull o u t th e knuckle m eat.

Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH

415

Shrimp To clean shrimp, remove the shell and the vein that runs along the back of the shrimp either before or after cooking. Shrimp that have been boiled or steamed in the shell are moister and plumper than shrimp that were peeled and deveined before cooking. Shrimp that will be served cold—in appetizers or salads, for example—can be cooked in the shell. Shrimp dishes that are sauteed or grilled usually call for the shrimp to be peeled and deveined before cooking. The shells can be reserved for other uses, such as making shrimp stock, bisque, or shellfish butters. 1.

To devein a shrim p, lay th e shelled shrim p on a w o rk surface, w ith the

curved o u te r edge on the same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Slice in to the shrim p w ith a parin g or u tility kn ife ; make a shallow cu t f o r deveining o r a deeper cu t f o r b u tte r f lying th e shrim p.

2.

Use th e t ip o f th e k n ife to scrape o u t th e "vein" (in te s tin a l tra c t).

3.

As an a lte rn a tiv e , to rem ove th e vein w ith o u t c u ttin g th e shrim p, hook it

w ith a to o th p ic k o r skew er and pu ll it o u t com p le te ly.

416

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

fabricating shellfish

Cleaning soft-shell crab A seasonal favorite, soft-shell crabs are considered a great delicacy. They are not especially difficult to clean once their various parts are identified. Soft-shell crabs are commonly prepared by sauteing or pan-frying, and the shell may be eaten along with the meat. 1 .

Peel back th e p o in te d shell and scrape away the g ill fila m e n ts on each

side.

2 .

Cut the eyes and m outh away fro m the head ju s t behind the eyes, and

squeeze g e n tly to fo rc e o u t the green bubble, which has an unpleasant flavor.

3.

Bend back th e ta il fla p (or apron) and pu ll w ith a s lig h t tw is tin g m otion.

The in te s tin a l vein is drawn o u t o f th e body a t th e same tim e .

4.

The cleaned crab w ith th e ta il fla p , head, and g ill fila m e n ts removed.

4

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

417

Crayfish

Oysters Open oysters by prying open the hinge holding the two shells together. When

Crayfish share many similarities with

opening oysters (and clams), be sure to reserve any juices, which are some­

lobster, but they are much smaller. If

times referred to as liquor. The liquor adds great flavor to soups, stews, and

live, pick through them and discard

stocks.

any dead ones. (They can also be pur­ chased frozen whole, or as just tails.)

1.

W ear a w ire mesh glove to hold the oyster, po sitio n e d so th a t the hinged

side is fa cin g outw ard. W ork the tip o f an o y s te r kn ife in to the hinge holding the upper and low er shells to g e th e r and tw is t the kn ife to break open th e hinge.

2.

It is relatively simple to remove the vein from the crayfish before cook­ ing, though this may be done after­ ward, if preferred.

Once open, slide the k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to release the

o y s te r fro m the shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e o y s te r fro m the b o tto m shell.

Crayfish may be boiled or steamed in the shell. They can be served as is, whole, or they can be peeled after cooking to pick out the tail meat.

418

M EAT S. POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

fabricating shellfish

Clams

Mussels

Wear a wire mesh glove to protect the hand holding the clam. Work the side

Mussels are rarely served raw, but

of a clam knife into the seam between the upper and lower shells.

the method for cleaning them before

1.

steaming and poaching is similar to Place th e clam in your hand so th a t the hinged side is to w a rd th e heel o f

that used for clams. Unlike clams

your hand. The fin g e rs o f you r gloved hand can be used to bo th help guide the

and oysters, mussels often have a

k n ife and give it e xtra fo rc e . T w ist th e blade s lig h tly , like a key in a lock, to

dark, shaggy beard. It is normally

p ry open th e shell.

removed before cooking.

2 .

shell. Removing the beard kills the

Pull the beard away from the Once th e shell is open, slide th e k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to

release the clam fro m th e shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e clam fro m

mussel, so perform this step as close

th e b o tto m shell.

to service as possible.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

419

Cleaning squid Octopus and squid belong to a category of shellfish known as cephalopods. They must be properly cleaned and cut to make the most of their flavor and texture in any cooked dish. Small squid and octopi are tender and moist when properly handled, even when cooked quickly and at high temperatures. Larger ones are better prepared by braising or stewing. The squid mantle can be cut into rings to saute, pan fry, or deep fry; or the squid may be left whole to grill or braise, with or without a stuffing. If desired, the ink sac can be saved and used to prepare various dishes, which will turn a dramatic black color. 1.

Pull the mantle and the tentacles apart. The eye, ink sac, and intestines w ill

come away w ith the tentacles.

2.

Pull th e tra n s p a re n t q u ill fro m th e m an tle and discard.

3.

Pull away as much o f th e skin as po ssib le fro m th e m antle. D iscard the

skin.

420

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

cleaning octopus and squid

3

4.

4

5

Cut th e te n ta c le s away fro m th e head by m aking a cut ju s t be lo w the eye.

If desired, reserve th e ink sac. D iscard th e re s t o f the head.

D.

Open the te n ta c le s to expose th e beak. Pull it away and discard. The te n ­

ta cle s may be le ft w hole if th e y are sm all or cu t in to pieces if th e y are large. Once th e squid is cleaned, rinse it in cold w ater.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH

421

Cleaning octopus Octopus is typically sold already cleaned. However, you may occasionally need to remove the viscera and beak (sometimes known as the eye). If the octopus you purchase has already been cleaned, simply cut the head away from the legs, and cut each piece into the appropriate size. Baby octopi are typically cooked whole. 1.

Use a pa rin g k n ife to cu t around the “eye" (beak) and l i f t it fro m the

octopus.

2.

Peel th e skin away fro m th e body by p u llin g firm ly .

3.

Pull the su ctio n cups away fro m the te n ta c le s if desired. The octo p u s is

ready to use.

422

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

roasting Some cooking methods rely on dry heat without fats or oils. The food is cooked either by a direct application of radiant heat (grilling and broiling) or by indirect heat in an oven (roasting and baking). The result of these cooking methods is a highly flavored exterior and a moist interior.

G

rilling

a n d

broiling

size or s m a l l e r

a re

quick

pieces of m eat

,

cooking

p o u ltr y

,

tec h n iq u es or fish

.

By

u sed

for

c o n tra st

,

n a t u r a lly

ten d er

roasting and

a lo n g e r c o o king tim e an d a r e f r e q u e n t l y u sed w ith la r g e r cuts of m eat

,w

baking

portion

-

require

h o le birds

,

and

D R E S S E D FISH.

grilling, broiling, and roasting G rillin g cooks fo o d w ith rad ia nt heat fro m a source lo cated below it. Some o f th e ju ices are reduced d ire c tly on the fo o d w hile th e re s t drip away. G rilled fo o d s have a s lig h tly sm oky flavo r, re s u ltin g fro m th e ju ices and fa ts th a t are rendered and lig h tly charred as th e foo d cooks, as w ell as fro m d ire c t co n ta ct w ith th e rods o f the g rill rack. B ro ilin g is sim ila r to g rillin g b u t uses a heat source lo cated above th e fo o d ra th e r than below it. The sauce th a t accom panies a g rille d o r b ro ile d ite m is prepared separately. Tender p o rtio n -s iz e cuts o f p o u ltry, cuts o f m eat fro m the loin, rib, o r to p round, and fille ts o f such f a t ty fis h as tuna, sw o rdfish , and salm on are su ite d to g rillin g and broiling. Lean fis h or w hole sm all fis h such as Dover sole or sm all flo u n d e rs may also be g rille d or b ro ile d i f th e y are coated w ith oil or an oil-based m arinade and cooked in a hinged hand g rill to pre ven t them fro m bre aking a p a rt durin g th e cooking process. D elicate fo o d s like lean w h ite fis h are brushed w ith b u tte r o r oil, put on a heated, oiled sizzler p la tte r, and placed on the rack below th e b ro ile r's heat source. Some le ss-te n d e r cuts o f m eat, such as hanger or fla n k steak, may also be used if the y are cut very thin. When p re pa ring fo o d s fo r g rillin g o r broiling, all m ea t and fis h should be o f an even thickness. Cut to an even thickn ess and pound lig h tly if necessary to fu rth e r even th ic k ­ ness. Very th ic k cuts o f m eat or fis h may also be b u tte r f lied so th a t the ite m may be cooked fro m s ta rt to fin is h on the g rill or in the broiler. M ea t should be trim m e d o f excess fa t and all silverskin and g ris tle . Some fo o d s are cu t in to strip s , chunks, o r cubes and the n th re a d ­ ed on to skewers. The fo o d its e lf should be seasoned and in some cases, lig h tly oiled. D iffe re n t p a rts o f th e g rill or b ro ile r are h o tte r than others. D ivide th e g rill in to zones o f varying heat in te n s ity , including a ve ry h o t sectio n fo r q u ickly searing fo o d s and cooking them to a rare doneness, an area o f m od era te heat fo r cooking fo o d s to a m edium -rare or m edium doneness, and an area o f low heat fo r slow cooking to a m edium -w ell or well. Low heat can also be used to keep fo o d s warm . (If the g rill is w ood- or ch a rco a l-fire d , set aside an area f o r ig n itin g the fue l; th is p a rt is to o h o t and sm oky to use to cook fo o d s d irectly.) Zones may also be a lloca ted fo r d iffe re n t typ e s o f foo ds, to pre ven t an undesirable tra n s ­ fe r o f fla v o rs . D eveloping a system fo r placing fo o d s on the g rill or in th e broiler, w h e th e r by fo o d ty p e or by range o f doneness, helps speed up w o rk on th e line. W oods such as m esquite, hickory, o r apple are fre q u e n tly used to im p a rt special f la ­ vors. H ardw ood chips, herb stem s, grapevine trim m in g s, and o th e r aro m atics can be put in a sm oker box (a s te e l box w ith holes) or w rapped in alum inum fo il w hich should be punc­ tu re d w ith a fe w holes. E ith e r o f these m ethods w ill allow th e sm oke to perm ea te th e g rill w ith o u t allow in g th e aro m atics to ignite. G rills and b ro ile rs m ust be w ell m aintained and kep t clean to produce a g o o d -q u a lity g rille d or broiled entree. Take the tim e to prepare the g rill before, during, and a fte r service. 424

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

Grilling or Broiling

Seasonings, including salt and

(1 en tree portion)

pepper or marinades, rubs, glazes, or barbecue sauce, if desired

1 portion

(6

to

8

oz/170 to 227

Other accompaniments, including compound butters, brown sauces, vegetable coulis, or salsas

g) meat, poultry, or seafood

'I

method at-a-glance

grilling and broiling

Q basic formula

expert tips

Thoroughly clean and preheat the g rill or broiler. Season the g rill with a light coating o f oil.

To season the main ingredient, there aremanyoptions. Apply each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking.

Season the main item and marinate or brush it w ith oil if necessary to prevent sticking.

M A R IN A D E S (E x c e s s m a r in a d e s h o u ld be w ip e d o f f t h e it e m b e f o r e g r illin g t o p r e v e n t f la r e u p s ) SPIC E R UBS / PRESALTING (M a s s a g e t h e s a lt o r ru b in to t h e it e m . A llo w i t t o s e t o v e r n ig h t a n d t h e n r in s e a n d t h o r o u g h ly d r y b e f o r e g r il lin g )

4. Place the main item on the

To add additional flavor,

g rill or broiler rods; use a hand g rill fo r delicate foods such as fish.

add items to the grill fire to create an

aromatic smoke, such as: H AR D W O O D C H IP S / HERB S TE M S / G R A P E V IN E T R IM M IN G S

Turn the item 90 degrees to produce crosshatch marks, if desired. 6. Turn the item to complete cooking to the desired doneness. A

Chapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G

425

1. turn on the grill

or b ro ile r in advance

and allow th e heat to burn away old p a rtic u la te s fro m the rods. Once any p a rtic u la te s have tu rn e d to w h ite ash, the y may be brushed away w ith a w ire brush or w iped away w ith a w e t cloth. W hen cleaning th e g rill w ith a clo th dipped in oil be ca re fu l n o t to use an excessive am ount as it w ill cre­ ate excess sm oke and fla re -u p . Clean and o il m etal skew­ ers b e fo re use; soak wooden skew ers in w a te r to prevent the m fro m cha rring to o much o r catch ing on fire . Hand racks f o r d e lica te fo o d s or th o se th a t m ig h t be aw kw ard to tu rn easily should also be cleaned and oiled between uses to pre ve n t m ea t skin fro m s tic k in g and tearing. S izzler p la tte rs , ton gs, o ffs e t spatulas, fle x ib le sp a tu ­ las, and brushes to ap ply glazes, m arinade, or barbecue sauces should be p a rt o f th e g rill sta tio n 's eq uipm en t m ise en place, as w e ll as all ite m s necessary fo r service (heated plates, spoons, o r ladles). It is necessary to keep th e rods clean during cooking. A g rill brush should be on hand along w ith a damp to w e l fo r w ipin g th e rods. If a fo o d is m arinate d in an oil-based m a ri­ nade, excess o il should be drained o f f p rio r to g rillin g to pre ve n t fla re -u p s. A ny fla re -u p w ill im p a rt an undesirable fla v o r and p o or appearance to th e fo o d being cooked.

2. let the food cook undisturbed on th e f ir s t side b e fo re tu rn in g it over. This develops b e t­ te r fla v o r and also le ts th e fo o d ’s n a tural fa ts ( if any) help release th e fo o d fro m th e g rill w ith o u t tea ring . Place the seasoned fo o d on the pre he ated g rill or b ro ile r rods to s ta rt coo kin g and to m ark it. The b e tte rlo o kin g (p re s e n ta tio n ) side always goes down on th e g rill rods fir s t. W hen th e fo o d comes in to c o n ta c t w ith the heated g rill rods, m arks are charred on to th e surface o f th e fo o d . To m ark fo o d s w ith a crossh atch on a g rill, g e n tly w o rk th e spa tula o r to n g s under th e fo o d , lift , and give it a q u a rte r-tu rn (90 degrees). This is o fte n re fe rre d to as th e ‘1 0 :0 0 / 2 :0 0 ’' m arking m ethod, alluding to how tho se tim e s are placed on a clo ck's face. Because m any barbecue sauces con tain sugar and burn easily, it is usually a good idea to p a rtia lly cook the fo o d b e fo re a p plying th e sauce. T hat way, as th e fo o d fin ish e s cooking, th e sauce glazes and caram elizes lig h tly w ith o u t burning. A single co a t o f sauce m ay be applied to each side o f th e fo o d , o r to build up a th icke r, s lig h tly cru s ty co a t o f sauce, th e fo o d m ay be brushed re p e a te d ly w ith lig h t coa ts o f sauce.

426

ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

grilling and broiling

3. turn the food over and con tinu e co o k­ ing to th e de sire d doneness. Since m o st fo o d s cooked by g rillin g o r b ro ilin g are re la tiv e ly th in and tender, th e y do n o t req uire much m ore coo kin g tim e once th e y have been tu rn e d over. T h icke r cuts or th o se th a t m ust be cooked to a higher in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re m ay need to be moved to a coo le r p o rtio n o f th e g rill o r b ro ile r so th a t th e y don't develop a charred e xte rio r. (The b u tte r fly m ethod fo r fa b ric a tin g s m a lle r cuts o f m ea t o r fis h may be ap plicab le in th is case.) A n o th e r s o lu tio n is to rem ove th e th ic k e r cuts fro m th e g rill o r b ro ile r a fte r th e y are m arked on b o th sides and fin is h th e coo kin g in th e oven. For ban­ quets, fo o d s can be q u ickly m arked on th e rods o f a g rill or broiler, ju s t b a re ly c o o kin g th e o u te r layers o f th e fo o d . They can the n be laid o u t on racks over she et pans and fin is h e d in th e oven. This approach allow s you to expand th e p o te n tia l o u tp u t o f th e g rill or bro ile r. For fo o d s a fe ty reasons, exercise e xtre m e care in c h illin g p a rtia lly cooked fo o d q u ickly if it is to be held fo r any length o f tim e. Remove th e m ea t o r fis h when it is s till s lig h tly un d e r­ done, so it does n o t end up overcooked by th e tim e it is served. Even th in pieces o f m eat or fis h w ill re ta in some heat, a llow in g th e m to cook a fte r th e y have been rem oved fro m th e heat. P ro p e rly pre pa red g rille d and b ro ile d fo o d s have a d is tin c tly sm oky fla vo r, w hich is cre a te d by a lim ite d am ount o f c h a rrin g and enhanced by th e a d d itio n o f h a rd­ w ood o r herb sprigs to th e g rill. This sm oky fla v o r and arom a should n o t ove rpo w er th e fo o d 's na tural flavo r, and th e ch a rrin g should n o t be so exte nsive th a t it gives the fo o d a b itte r o r c arbonized ta s te . Any m arinades or glazes should s u p p o rt and n o t m ask th e fo o d ’s n a tural flavo r.

PAN GRILLING Pan grilling involves cooking foods on the

consider, however, that pan grilling will

stove over intense heat in a heavy cast-iron

not impart the same flavor as will tradi­

or other warp-resistant metal pan with a

tional grilling. Grills and broilers must be

ridged interior bottom. The thick ridges create marks similar to a grill and hold

well maintained and kept clean to produce a good-quality grilled or broiled entree.

the food up and away from any juices or

Take the time to prepare the grill before,

fat that might collect. It is important to

during, and after service.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

427

The

fla v o r

a nd

a r o m a

of

a

fo o d

th a t

has

BEEN w e l l

r o a sted

c o n t r ib u t e

to

an

o v e r a ll

S E N S A T IO N O F F U L L F L A V O R , R IC H N E S S , A N D D E P T H . T h e CO LO R H A S A D IR E C T B E A R IN G ON T H E FL A V O R AS W E L L AS A P P E A R A N C E . F O O D S TH A T A R E TOO PALE LACK E Y E A P P E A L A N D D E P T H OF FLA V O R . W E L L R O A S T E D F O O D S A R E T E N D E R A N D M O I S T . T h E S K I N , I F L E F T O N T H E F O O D , S H O U L D BE C R I S P , C R E A T I N G A C O N T R A S T W IT H T H E T E X T U R E OF T H E MEAT.

roasting Roasting, w h ethe r by pan roasting, baking, sm oke-roasting, or poeleing, is a way o f cooking by in d ire c t heat in an oven. The te rm baking is o fte n used interchangeably w ith roasting; how­ ever, it is m ost ty p ic a lly used in relation to breads, cakes, pastries, and the like. S p it-ro a s tin g and ro tis s e rie cooking are m ore like g rillin g or bro iling . Cooking involves placing the fo o d on a rod, which is tu rn e d e ith e r m anually or w ith a m otor. The ra d ia n t heat given o f f by a fire or gas je t cooks the fo o d w hile co n sta n t tu rn in g creates a b a stin g e ffe c t and ensures th a t th e fo o d cooks evenly. R oasting is more sim ilar to baking than it is to s p it-ro a s tin g or ro tisse rie cooking. In an oven, roasted fo o d s are cooked through con tact w ith dry heated air held in a closed environ­ ment. As the o u te r layers become heated, the food's natural juices tu rn to steam and pen­ e tra te the fo o d more deeply. The rendered juices, also called pan drippings or fond, are the fou nda tion fo r sauces prepared w hile the roa st rests. S m o ke -ro a stin g is an a d a p ta tio n o f ro a stin g th a t allow s fo o d s to ta ke on a rich, sm oky flavo r. The fo o d cooks in a tig h tly closed en viro nm en t or in a sm oking setup. This can be done over an open fla m e or in the oven. R oasting com m only re fe rs to cooking large, n a tu ra lly tender, m u ltip o rtio n m eat cuts, whole p o u ltry, and dressed fish . Tender m eats fro m the rib, loin, and leg give th e be st re ­ sults. Trim away any excess f a t and silverskin . A layer o f fa t o r p o u ltry skin helps to baste fo o d s n a tu ra lly as th e y roast. Season m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h b e fo re ro a stin g to fu lly de­ velop th e ir flavo r. For a d d itio n a l fla v o r during roasting, fre s h herbs or a ro m a tic vegetables may be used to s t u f f th e c a vity o f b irds or fis h or in se rte d under p o u ltry skin. A good ro a stin g pan has re la tiv e ly low sides to allow hot air to c ircu la te fre e ly . S elect a pan th a t holds the fo o d c o m fo rta b ly b u t is not so large th a t th e pan ju ice s scorch. Food to be roa ste d may be se t on a ro a stin g rack or elevated by aro m atics, which p e rm its the hot air to co n ta c t all o f the fo o d ’s surfaces. The pan should rem ain uncovered. The oven should be preheated. There are d iffe re n t techniques regard ing oven te m p e r­ atu re s fo r roa sting . Some ite m s are ro a ste d very qu ickly a t high te m p e ra tu re s. O thers are begun a t low te m p e ra tu re s, then fin ish e d a t a higher te m p e ra tu re . S till o th e rs are s ta rte d at a high te m p e ra tu re , then fin ish e d at a low er te m p e ra tu re . Roast large cuts such as prim e rib a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t roa sting . S ta rt sm aller or m ore de lica te fo o d s a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re (30 0° to 3 2 5 °F /1 4 9 ° to 163°C) and then brown the m a t th e very end o f ro a stin g by increasing th e oven to 3 5 0 ° to 3 7 5 ° F /1 7 7 ° to 191°C. You may need butcher's tw in e or skewers, as w ell as an in sta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r and a kitche n fo rk . Have an a d d itio n a l pan to hold the roa ste d fo o d w hile a sauce is made fro m the pan drippings. S tra in e rs and skim m ers or ladles are needed to prepare the sauce. Have a carving board and an e xtre m e ly sharp carving k n ife nearby fo r fin a l service.

428

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

roasting

Q

b a sic fo rm u la Roasting Meat, Poultry, or Seafood

l o z / 2 8 g Mirepoix (page

PAN GRAVY

2 4 3 ),p e r l l b / 4 5 4 g m e a t

Stock (fo rtifie d or regular)

(1 roast) Seasonings

Mirepoix or other

1 roast meat, poultry, or seafood trimm ed as desired, trussed or tied

aromatic vegetables

2 fl o z /6 0 mL prepared pan sauce, pan gravy, or other sauce

A thickener such as roux or pure

as appropriate per portion

starch slurry; in some cases, the pureed mirepoix may be used to thicken, and reduction is also

m eth o d at-a-glan ce

used to thicken pan sauces

ex p ert tips

j . Season, s tu ff, m arinate, bard, or lard th e main item , and sear it over d ire c t heat or in a h ot oven, i f desired. 2. Elevate th e ite m in a ro a stin g pan so th a t h o t air can reach all sides.

To develop additional flavo r and color,

sear the item

before roasting. Once the foods have been seasoned and tied or trussed, they may be seared in hot fa t on the stovetop, under a broiler, or in a very hot oven. Searing is an effective way to develop flavor and color in longer, slower cook­ ing methods.

3. R oast th e ite m uncovered u n til the desired in te rn a l

Basting is a technic|ue

te m p e ra tu re is reached. Be

food is lean and does not release enough fa t of its own for basting, any one of

sure to allow fo r carryover

the following may be used:

th a t both adds flavor and moisture. If the

cooking. M ELTED B U TTE R / OIL / M A R IN A D E S

4 . Add the m ire p o ix to the ro a stin g pan fo r pan gravy during th e fin a l h a lf hour o f ro a stin g tim e , i f desired. 5. L e t th e roa sted ite m re st b e fo re carving.

Pan sear items th a t are sma Her or have a smooth fia t sur­ face— such as a striploin. Oven sear items th a t have an irregular shape. Oven tem perature fo r searing should be set at 4 2 5 ° to 4 5 0 °/2 1 8 ° to 232°C

If roasts are drastically trim m ed , an alternative "skin" should be added in the form of a coating or crust. D iffe ren t ingredients may be

6 . Prepare the pan gravy in

combined with a small amount o f fa t and used to form this crust, such as:

th e ro a stin g pan. BARDING: T y in g t h in s h e e ts o f f a t b a c k , b a c o n , o r c a u l f a t a ro u n d a fo o d

7. Carve th e main ite m and serve it w ith th e

SEA S O N ED D RIED POTATO FLAK ES / RICE FLA K ES / C O R N FLA K E S /

a p p ro p ria te gravy or sauce.

C O R N M E A L / FIN E L Y G R O U N D D RIED M U S H R O O M S

Items may also beglazed

to add flavor. To do this, use a stock-

based or fruit-based liquid.

Foods such as whole birds , chicken breasts, and chops may be stuffed before roasting. Season the stuffing and chill it to below 4 0°F/4°C before combining it with raw meat, fish, or poultry. Allow enough tim e for the seasonings to interact with the food before roasting.

chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OA S TI NG

429

COOKING SLOW AND LOW: SMOKING AND BARBECUING These techniques continue to grow in pop­

other ingredients that can bum easily.

ularity with diners and can be a profitable

Such sauces should be added at the end of

addition to a menu for any chef, presum­

the cooking process or applied to the fin­

ing they have the correct equipment and

ished product or served on the side.

use the proper techniques. SMOKING The technique of smoking cooks meat at a low temperature for a lengthy period of time, infusing it with flavor from the smoke and making it very tender by the end of the cooking process. Chefs can use tough cuts of meat for smoking, as the length of the cooking will break down the connec­

» The type o f wood used during the smoking process will affect the final flavor o f the meat. It is important to remember that different types of wood will impart different flavors into the meat, and some woods may overpower certain cuts o f meat. Commonly used woods include mesquite, cherry, hickory, alder, pecan, and apple. » The correct spacing of the meat in the

tive tissues in the meat. Some cuts that are

smoker is crucial to even cooking. Be cer­

ideal for smoking include beef brisket, pork

tain that there is enough space between

shoulder, and beef or pork ribs.

pieces o f meat so that air and smoke can circulate evenly around the meat as it

TIPS FOR SM OKING AND BARBECUING

cooks. » A smoke ring is a sign o f well-smoked

» Most recipes call for excess fat and gristle

meat. It is created by a buildup o f nitric

to be trimmed from meat prior to cooking.

acid on the surface o f the meat, which is

However, it is important not to remove too

then absorbed into the meat. After cooking,

much fat from cuts o f meat that are to be

a ring, slightly pink in color, can be found

used for smoking and barbecuing. The fat

just under the outer crust. It can range in

present (especially the fat cap on the sur­

thickness, but it is generally desired to be

face o f the meat) will keep the meat moist

Va to 14 in/6 to 12 mm.

during cooking. If too much fat is trimmed from the meat, the meat will easily dry out

REGIONAL STYLE DIFFERENCES

over the length of cooking time required for

Smoking, barbecuing, and other slow-and-

these methods.

low cooking styles are popular throughout

» Dry rubs are ideal for this type of cooking, because they season the meat and provide excellent flavor without burning during cooking. Barbecue sauces and marinades, while flavorful, tend to contain sugar and

430

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

the world. Countries across Asia, Europe, and the Caribbean have a wide range of barbequing techniques as unique as the regions themselves. In North America, there are seven primary regional styles.

Texas: B eef and sausages. Known for a

the primary choice o f meat for barbecue,

thick, smokier sauce flavored with chiles

and sauces are thin and flavored

and spices such as cumin.

primarily with vinegar and ketchup or

St. Louis: Pork ribs. A mild tomato-based

another tomato product.

sauce. Not as thick as Kansas City-style,

South Carolina: Also pork, and sauces are

and not as spicy as Texas-style.

also thin and vinegar-based, but flavored

Memphis: Pork shoulder. Thin, tomato-

heavily with mustard and other spices.

based sauce that is often poured over ribs

Kansas City: Both beef and pork are

after cooking.

popular, and the sauces are thick, sweet,

Kentucky: Mutton. Known for its

and tomato-based.

distinctive “black” sauce, which is

roasting

North Carolina: Pork—the whole hog—is

flavored with bourbon, Worcestershire sauce, and molasses.

The interior o f a commercial smoker

This smoked brisket exhibits a distinct smoke ring, the pink ring ju s t under its outer crust.

Chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D ROA S TI NG

431

1. use the fat and juices

released by

th e fo o d its e lf f o r a tra d itio n a l b a stin g liquid. However, a sep ara te b a s tin g liquid, such as a m arinade, glaze, o r f la ­ vore d o r plain b u tte r, may also be used. Once th e fo o d has been seasoned and tie d or tru sse d , if necessary, it may be seared in h o t fa t on the s to ve to p , under a b ro ile r, o r in a ve ry h o t oven. Some fo o d s are not seared, e sp ecially large cuts, since an extended ro a stin g tim e w ill produce a de ep ly colore d e x te rio r even w ith o u t an in itia l searing. A rrange th e fo o d on a w ire rack in a s tra ig h t-s id e d ro a s tin g pan. (The rack w ill help im prove air circu latio n.) There should be enough room in th e pan so th a t fo o d f it s c o m fo rta b ly and has enough space around it to allow fo r th e a d d itio n o f aro m atics. Place it in a pre he ated oven. Roast, a d ju sting oven te m p e ra tu re as necessary. Baste as necessary th ro u g h o u t cooking tim e (as shown in photograph). B astin g re tu rn s som e m o is tu re to th e fo o d , p re v e n t­ ing it fro m d ryin g out. The b a stin g liquid also im p a rts ad­ d itio n a l flavo r. A lte rn a tiv e b a stin g liquids such as m elte d b u tte r, oil, o r m arinades are p a rtic u la rly use ful if the fo o d is lean and does n o t release enough f a t o f its own fo r basting. For a pan sauce o r gravy, add m ire p o ix o r o th e r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts to th e ro a s tin g pan, if desired.

2. use an instant-read

th e rm o m e te r to

de te rm in e doneness in ro a ste d fo o d s. To g e t th e m ost accu rate read, th e th e rm o m e te r m ust be in se rte d a t least as fa r as th e sm all d im ple on th e stem . N o tice th a t the ste m is in se rte d in to th e ite m ’s th ic k e s t pa rt, away fro m any bones. R oast fo o d s to th e c o rre c t doneness and le t them re s t b e fo re serving. M eats, fish, p o u ltry , and game are g e n e ra lly cooked to a s p e c ifie d in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re (see page 36 7). When th e fo o d is nearly done, rem ove it fro m th e pan and allow it to rest. Cover the fo o d loosely w ith fo il to keep it m o is t and place it in a w arm s p o t to re st. R esting plays a key role in ca rryo ve r cooking, which should be th o u g h t o f as th e la s t stage o f cooking. A llo w a re s tin g pe rio d o f a b o u t 5 m inutes f o r sm all item s, 15 to 20 m in utes f o r m edium item s, and up to 45 m in utes fo r ve ry large roa sts. This is done because as fo o d s roast, th e ir ju ice s becom e co n ce n tra te d in th e center. A re stin g p e rio d b e fo re c u ttin g in to th e fo o d gives th e ju ice s tim e to re d is trib u te evenly th ro u g h o u t. R esting also le ts the te m p e ra tu re o f th e fo o d equalize, which b e n e fits te x tu re , arom a, and fla vo r.

432

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

roasting

3. serve roasted foods w ith a pan sauce based on th e accu m ulated drip p in g s fro m th e fo o d . Jus and pan gra vy are th e m o st fre q u e n tly p re pa red pan sauces. Onions, ca rro ts , celery, g a rlic, o r o th e r a ro m a tic veg etab le s o r herbs added to th e pan du rin g ro a stin g w ill have brow ned and ro a ste d in the dripp ing s. They w ill have a deep c o lo r and w ill have absorbed som e o f the fla v o r fro m th e drip p in g s, so th a t th e y can p ro p e rly fla v o r and co lo r th e fin is h e d pan sauce. B e fo re p re p a rin g any pan sauce, be sure th a t th e drip p in g s are n o t scorched. Scorched d rip p in g s re s u lt in a b itte r, unpa lata ble sauce. To make a pan gravy, place th e ro a s tin g pan on th e s to v e to p and cook th e drip p in g s over m edium heat u n til th e m ire p o ix is brow ned and th e f a t is tra n s p a re n t and clear. The ju ice s w ill have sep ara te d fro m th e f a t and cooked down to a fo n d on th e b o tto m o f th e pan. For a pan gravy, pour o f f th e fa t, b u t leave enough to pre pa re a roux by coo kin g th e f a t and som e flo u r to g e th e r. If p re p a rin g a jus, flo u r is n o t used.

4. after the roux browns, gradually add the sto ck to the pan and s tir c on stantly to w ork out any lumps. Be sure the liquid is n o t to o hot or it may spatter. Add th e s to c k and sim m e r th e pan g ra vy o r jus. Cook a pan gra vy u n til th icke n e d and th e fla v o r has developed, b u t f o r a m inim um o f 2 0 m in u te s to ensure th e sta rch in the flo u r is s u ffic ie n tly cooked. To prepare a jus, pour o f f all o f th e rem a ining f a t and deglaze th e pan, if desired, w ith w ine o r a n o th e r liquid. A dd a s to c k th a t s u its the ro a ste d fo o d . S im m e r u n til th e fla v o r is w e ll developed, 15 to 20 m inutes. S kim th e ju s as it sim m ers to rem ove f a t and p a rtic le s fro m th e surface. A jus m ay be cooked down u n til th icke n e d , o r to pre pa re a ju s lie, th icke n the ju s w ith an a rro w ro o t o r co rn sta rch s lu rry ju s t b e fo re strain in g.

C hapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

433

5. use a fine-mesh sieve

to stra in

th e pan gra vy or ju s in to a clean h o ld ing co n ta in e r fo r storag e o r in to a pan to keep w arm f o r service. Hold the fin is h e d pan gra vy o r jus in a steam ta b le or w a te r bath like any o th e r sauce. Hold a ju s by covering it w ith a tig h tly f it t in g lid.

BARDING AND LARDING Two traditional preparation techniques

will not have the same moisture-retention

for roasted foods that are naturally lean

effect as the fatback, but it will add plenty

are barding (tying thin sheets of fatback,

of flavor.

bacon, or caul fat around a food) and lard­

434

Today, due to increased concerns over

ing (inserting small strips of fatback into

the amount of fat in diets, often every trace

a food). The extra fat provides additional

of visible fat or skin is removed in an effort

flavor and also helps keep the meat tender

to reduce fat in the fined dish, even though

and juicy. Venison, wild boar, game birds,

the amount of fat released from skin or fat

and certain cuts of beef or lamb are candi­

layers as foods roast does not penetrate

dates for barding or larding.

far into the meat. Fat and skin provide

Variations using different products are also employed to give different flavors to

of an oven without dramatically changing

roasted foods. For example, rather than

the amount of fat in the meat, and foods

being larded with fatback, a roast may be

stripped of their natural protection of fat

studded with slivers of garlic. The garlic

or skin can become dry and lose flavor.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

some protection from the drying effects

it e m

. T h e t h r e e it e m s c a r v e d o n t h e f o l l o w i n g p a g e s — a w h o l e d u c k , a r ib r o a s t o f b e e f ,

A N D A H A M — S H O U L D BE C O N S I D E R E D P R O T O T Y P E S F O R O T H E R M E A T S . F O R E X A M P L E , B E C A U S E T H E Y A R E S I M I L A R I N S T R U C T U R E , A L E G O F L A M B W O U L D BE C A R V E D IN T H E S A M E M A N N E R A S T H E H A M .

carving techniques

carving techniques

L a r g e r o a s t e d f o o d s m u s t be c a r v e d o r c u t in t o p o r t io n s c o r r e c t l y to m a k e t h e m o s t o f th e

Carving a roast duck When a guest orders duck, this pre­ sentation is the most user friendly. Most of the bones are removed so that the leg portion has only the drumstick bone and the breast por­ tion has a single wing bone. The two are nestled together so that the bone­ less breast and thigh meat overlap. The guest can simply cut into the meat without having to work around bones. 1 .

Cut th e legs away fro m the

body a t th e p o in t w here th e leg m ee ts th e bre ast. Pull th e leg away fro m th e body to reveal th e jo in t; cut th ro u g h th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t jo in t to sever it c o m p le te ly.

2.

Use th e boning k n ife to cut

along e ith e r side o f th e keel bone.

chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OAS TI NG

435

Carving a roast duck, continued

3.

Carve th e b re a s t away fro m th e rib cage w ith as litt le trim loss as pos­

sible by m aking th e edge o f th e blade run as close to th e bones as you can.

4.

Pull th e th ig h bone up and aw ay fro m th e th ig h m eat. Use th e k n ife as

shown to sep ara te th e bone a t th e leg jo in t.

5 .

To nest th e leg and b re a s t p o rtio n s fo r p re se n ta tio n , p o s itio n th e leg p o r­

tio n on th e b o tto m and th e b re a s t p o rtio n ove rla p p in g th e leg, w ith th e d ru m ­ s tic k bone and th e w ing bone on o p p o s ite sides.

436

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

carving techniques

Carving a beef rib roast

Carving ham in the dining room

A beef rib roast is a large cut and is

This carving method may also be

2.

easiest to handle when turned on its

used for legs of lamb and steamship

large, begin to cu t th e m ea t a t a s lig h t

side. This carving method can also

rounds.

angle, f ir s t fro m th e le ft side, then

be used for a rack of veal or venison. These smaller roasts need not be

W hen th e slices becom e very

fro m th e rig h t side, a lte rn a tin g u n til 1 .

A fte r th e end piece has been

turned on their sides, and cuts are

cu t away, make p a ra lle l cuts fro m

made from top to bottom between

th e shank end down th e bone. Con­

the bones. The meat can be cut away

tin u e c u ttin g slices o f m ea t fro m

from the bones to make slices or the

th e leg, c u ttin g aw ay fro m th e bone

bones may be left in place to produce

to make even slices. The in itia l cuts

chops.

are made v e rtic a lly , u n til th e bone

th e leg is e n tire ly sliced.

is reached. 1 .

Lay th e rib ro a s t on its side.

Using a slicin g kn ife , make p a rallel cuts fro m th e o u te r edge to w a rd the bones. Use th e k n ife tip to cut th e slices o f m ea t away fro m the bone. S to re cu t side up if necessary to pre ve n t ju ic e loss.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

437

Carving a ham in the kitchen 1.

Stand th e ham on end, w ith th e s irlo in end re s tin g on th e board. Hold

th e shank end w ith your g u id ing hand to keep th e ham stab le. M ake a cut in to th e lean m eat ju s t below th e s tifle jo in t on th e shank end and fo llo w the n a tural curve o f th e fem ur. Cut close to th e bone f o r th e b e st yield.

2.

A t th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t jo in t, cu t around the jo in t. This f ir s t cut w ill not

co m p le te ly cu t th e m eat away fro m th e bone. Remove th e to p piece o f m eat fro m th e aitch bone.

3.

Repeat th e same sequence o f cuts on th e second side o f th e bone to

c o m p le te ly fre e th e m eat. The m ea t w ill appear to have a V-shaped notch where it was cu t aw ay fro m th e bone.

438

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

n

P

t-i • h

Q

£

ro CZ!

4.

C ut aw ay th e m ea t fro m th e back side o f th e fem ur. Try to keep the

pieces o f m ea t as in ta c t as possible.

5 .

Cut th e la rg e r pieces o f ham in to m anageable pieces th a t can be sliced

in to p o rtio n s.

6 .

Carve th e ham in to slices w ith a s lice r as shown. The ham could also be

sliced on an e le c tric m ea t slicer.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

439

Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce Makes 10 servings Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks 1

tb s p /lO g s a lt

Makes 32 fl

0Z/960

mL

V/2 o z/4 3 g minced shallot 2 o z/5 7 g clarified butter 2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg sliced white mushrooms 8

f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine

1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)

V/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

4 o z/1 1 3 g whole butter, diced

3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil

Salt, as needed

20 ft o z/6 0 0 mL Mushroom Sauce (recipe follows)

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper. 3 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­ turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the

1 . Sweat the shallots in the clarified butter in a small rondeau over medium heat.

2 . Add the mushrooms and saute over high heat, stir­ ring often, until the juices have cooked away.

3 . Add the wine to deglaze the pan. Cook until the wine is reduced by two-thirds.

4 . Add the demi-glace and simmer until the sauce has a

desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare

good consistency and flavor, about 5 minutes. Finish

(internal temperature of i35°F/57°C), 6V2 min­

the sauce with the whole butter (monte au beurre).

utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for

5 . Season with salt and pepper. The sauce is ready to

medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-

serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger­

well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done

ated for later use.

(i7 0 0F/77°C).

5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce. G rilled o r B roiled S irlo in S teak w ith M a itre d’H o te l B u tte r: Replace the mushroom sauce w ith 10 oz/2 84 g Maitre d’Hotel B utter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings. Top each cooked steak w ith the butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the bu tte r begins to melt. Serve at once.

440

Mushroom Sauce

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Makes 10 servings

Marchand de Vin Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot 2

thyme sprigs

1

bay leaf

Ten 1 0 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks

V2 tsp / 1 g cracked black peppercorns

lt b s p /lO g s a lt

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine

V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper

1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)

3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil

Salt, as needed

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Marchand de Vin Sauce (recipe follows)

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Brush lightly with oil.

3 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­ turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal temperature of 135°F/57°C), 6V2 min­

4 o z /1 13 g butter, diced

1 . Combine the shallots, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and wine in a small rondeau. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce to a syrupy consistency, about 5 min­ utes.

2.. Add the demi-glace and reduce to a nappe consis­ tency, 8 to 10 minutes.

3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce. Finish with butter.

4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.

utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce

well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done (i70°F/77°C).

5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G

441

Seitan Satay Makes 10 servings SEITAN 2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil 2 o z/5 7 g diced shallot V 2 o z/1 4 g seeded and minced jalapeno '/ 2

o z/1 4 g minced garlic

V2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL soy sauce

5 . For the peanut sauce, heat the peanut oil in a me­ dium saute pan over medium heat. Stir in the curry paste and turmeric until the mixture bubbles slight­ ly, about 1 minute. 6 . Stir in the peanut butter, coconut milk, stock, lime juice, and chili sauce and reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. When the liquid begins to bubble, remove from the heat and continue to stir for 1 minute. Add the peanuts, and reserve for service.

7 . Thread the marinated seitan onto the skewers. Grill the seitan until nicely browned and heated through,

2 V2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice 2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil 2 o z/5 7 g honey 2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro 1 lb 14 o z/851 g seitan, cubed or cut into V 4-in /6-m m strips SPICY PEANUT SAUCE 2 tb sp /3 0 mL peanut oil V2 o z/1 4 g Red Curry Paste (page 370) 1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric 9 o z/2 5 5 g peanut butter 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL coconut milk 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265) 3 tb sp /4 5 mL lime juice 2 'A f I o z/7 5 mL sweet Thai chili sauce 6 o z /1 7 0 g peanuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

1 . For the seitan, heat the olive oil in a small saute pan over low heat. Add the shallots and jalapenos and saute until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and saute until aromatic, about 1 minute more. Transfer to a blender or food processor.

2 . Add the soy sauce, lime juice, sesame oil, honey, and cilantro. Pulse until smooth. If the mixture is too thick and pasty, add water 1 tbsp/15 mL at a time to create a thick marinade.

3 . Transfer the mixture to a shallow hotel pan, and add the seitan. Turn to coat each piece. Marinate, cov­ ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

4 . Soak wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes.

442

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve with spicy peanut sauce.

Makes 10 servings

8 . Remove the steaks from the grill and allow them to rest for 5 minutes in a warm place. Slice each steak on the bias into 5 pieces.

MARINADE

9 . Serve immediately with the vegetables.

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sake 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL mirin 3 3/4 o z /1 0 6 g sugar 21/4 o z/6 4 g grated apple

Barbecued Steak with Herb Crust Makes 10 servings

10 beef skirt steaks (about 6 o z/1 7 0 g each) 1 lb /4 5 4 g snow peas

HERB CRUST

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil

6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs

20 medium white mushrooms caps

6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, melted

1 lb /4 5 4 g bean sprouts

V 2 o z/1 4 g parsley, chopped

l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt

2 ts p /6 g minced garlic lt s p /3 g s a lt

1 . To make the marinade, combine the soy sauce, sake,

V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper

mirin, and sugar in a medium sauce pot and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the apple, and mix

STEAKS

well. Cool completely.

Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks

2 . Pour the marinade over the steaks in a hotel pan. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or

1 tb s p /lO g s a lt V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

up to overnight.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Beef Teriya

1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic

3 . Cut the snow peas diagonally in 2 or 3 pieces. 3 fl o z/4 5 mL vegetable oil

4 . Heat the oil in a saute pan or wok over medium-high heat. Add the mushroom caps, bean sprouts, and snow peas and saute until just tender. Season with salt. Reserve warm.

5 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade from the steaks; blot dry if necessary. 6 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­ turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

7 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal temperature of i35°F/57°C), 6V2 min­ utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for mediumwell (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done (i70°F/77°C).

12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475; o p tio n a l)

1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.

2.. Combine all of the ingredients for the herb crust and blend well. Reserve.

3 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper, rub with gar­ lic, and lightly brush with oil.

4 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil the steaks undisturbed for about 2 minutes.

5 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de­ sired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal temperature of 135°F/57°C), 6V2 minutes for mediumrare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 min­ utes for well-done (i70°F/77°C). 6 . Top the steaks with the herb crust and brown the top­ ping under a salamander or broiler. Serve the steaks at once, with barbecue sauce if desired.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

445

Skewered Beef and Scallions Makes

10

servings

Grilled Rib Eye Steak Makes

10

servings

MARINADE 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil

MARINADE 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce 2 f I o z/6 0 mL sesame oil

V 2 o z/1 4 g ground black pepper 13 garlic cloves, crushed 1 bunch rosemary, roughly chopped

l'/2 o z/4 3 g sugar BEEF '/2

o z/1 4 g minced garlic

'/ 2

o z/1 4 g minced ginger

Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g boneless rib eye steaks 1 o z/2 8 g salt 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper V 2 o z /1 4 g ground black pepper

BEEF 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg beef flank steak, cut 1 by 4 b y’/s in /3 by 10 cm by 3 mm 6 bunches green onions, cut into pieces 3'/2 in /9 cm long

1 . Preheat the grill. 2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Add the steaks and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Add the beef and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight.

2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the beef on the skewers, alternating with the green onions.

3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­ disturbed for about 1 minute. ( Optional: Give each skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera­ ture of i45°F/63°C. 6 . Serve immediately.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

3 . Wipe excess marinade from the steaks. Season with salt and pepper. Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de­ sired doneness, or a minimum internal temperature o f i45°F/63°C.

5 . Serve immediately.

Dill Sauce

(Raznjici)

Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL

Makes 10 servings

2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 294) 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream

MARINADE 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lemon juice 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil

3 tb s p /9 g chopped dill Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

4 o z /1 1 3 g s lic e d onion

P /4 o z/5 0 g thinly sliced garlic 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley

In a medium sauce pot, warm the veloute to a gentle simmer, about i 85°F/85°C. Temper the sour cream and add it to the veloute.

2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless veal top round, cut into l ’/2-in /4-c m cubes

Stir in the dill. Return to just below a simmer, about

2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin, cut into l'/2 -in /4 -c m cubes

warm for service.

i8o°F/82°C. Season with salt and pepper. Hold

1 tb sp /1 0 g salt l

'/2

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

GARNISH 12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced onion 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Dill Sauce (recipe follows)

1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Add the meats. Marinate, covered, in the

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Pork and Veal Skewers

refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight.

2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the meats onto the skewers. Allow any excess marinade to drain from the meat before grilling or broiling; blot if necessary. Season with salt and pepper.

3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­ disturbed for 3 to 4 minutes.

5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking, 3 to 4 minutes more, or to a minimum internal tempera­ ture of 145°F/63°C. Brush the meat with additional marinade as it broils or grills. 6 . Serve immediately with the sliced onions and dill sauce. B roiled Lamb Kebabs w ith P im iento B u tte r: Replace the veal and pork w ith an equal to ta l amount o f boneless lamb leg. Replace the dill sauce w ith Pimiento Butter (page 300).

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G . A N D RO AS TING

447

Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL apple cider

Makes 10 servings

2 tb sp /3 0 mL applejack brandy 10 loin pork chops (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g each) 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt l

’/ 2

tsp/B g ground black pepper

2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 20 fI o z/6 0 0 mL Apple Cider Sauce (recipe follows) 10 servings Caramelized Apples (recipe follows) 2 lb 13 o z/1 .2 8 kg Braised Red Cabbage (page 7 1 1)

3 thyme sprigs 5 black peppercorns, crushed 1 bay leaf Slurry (see page 247), as needed

1 . Season the pork with the salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large sauce pot over medium-high heat. Add

1 . Heat 6 charcoal briquettes on a rack over the direct flame of a burner until red hot.

2 . Place the pork on a wire rack on a sheet pan in a cold oven.

the pork and cook until evenly browned on all sides. Remove the meat from the pan and reserve.

2 . Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook until caramel­ ized.

3 . Carefully transfer the coals to a half hotel pan. Sprin­ kle them with wood chips to create smoke.

4 . Place the pan of smoking wood chips indirectly

3 . Deglaze with the cider and applejack. Reduce by half. 4 . Return the pork to the pot. Add the stock, thyme, pep­ percorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer (between

under the pork. Close the oven door and smoke the

i8o°F and i85°F/82°C and 85°C) and cook until

pork for at least 10 but no more than 15 minutes. Do

reduced by half, skimming as necessary, 25 to 30 min­

not oversmoke.

utes.

5 . Remove the pork and refrigerate, covered, until needed. Pour water over the coals to extinguish

5 . Thicken with a slurry, if necessary. Strain and hold hot for service.

them. Dispose of them when cold. 6 . Preheat the grill. Season the pork with salt and pep­ per and lightly brush with oil. Place the pork chops presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill un­ disturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give each chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

7 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C. 8 . Heat the apple cider sauce, caramelized apples, and

Caramelized Apples Makes 10 servings 8 seasonal apples Juice of 2 lemons 7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar Salt, as needed

braised red cabbage. Serve each chop with 4V2 oz/128 g cabbage, 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce, and about 6 apple

1 . Peel and core the apples. Cut each apple into 8 wedges. Sprinkle half of the lemon juice over the

wedges.

apples to prevent oxidation.

Apple Cider Sauce Makes 32 fl

0Z/960

mL

8 o z/2 2 7 g lean pork trim, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes l t s p /3 g s a lt V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper

448

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

2 . Combine the sugar with the remaining lemon juice in a large saute pan and mix well. Caramelize the sugar over high heat.

3 . Carefully add the apple slices and coat with the cara­ melized sugar. Season lightly with a pinch of salt. Reserve warm.

Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry Vinegar Sauce Makes 10 servings

Sherry Vinegar Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL sherry vinegar 3 o z/8 5 g dark brown sugar 26 fl o z/7 8 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)

10 bone-in pork chops (about 12 o z/3 4 0 g each, 2 in /5 cm thick)

Salt, as needed

lt b s p /lO g s a lt

Ground black pepper, as needed

V / 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper

4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, diced

2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil 20 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Sherry Vinegar Sauce (recipe follows)

1 . Prepare a gastrique as follows: Cook the vinegar and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until the mixture comes to a boil and the sugar is

1 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 2 . Season the pork with salt and pepper and lightly brush with oil. Place the pork chops presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for 8 to 10 minutes. (Op­ tional: Give each chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill

marks.)

3 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to a minimum internal temperature of i45°F/63°C.

4 . Remove the pork chops from the grill or broiler and allow them to rest for about 5 minutes.

5 . Heat the sherry vinegar sauce. Top each pork chop with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce and serve at once.

450

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

completely dissolved, 4 to 6 minutes.

2 . Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the jus lie to the gastrique. Stir to combine and return to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the sauce to a nappe consistency, about 15 minutes.

3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce and finish with whole butter (monte au beurre). The sauce is ready to serve now or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.

Makes

10

servings

the fibrous choke from the center of the artichoke. Halve each of the halves and store in the lemon water to prevent browning.

4 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the extra-virgin olive oil, or more as needed, in large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. (Use more oil than a saute, but less than a pan fry.) Thoroughly drain the artichokes. Brown lightly, without overcrowding the pan. (Work in batches if necessary.) When lightly golden, season

MARINADE

with salt and pepper, remove from the pan, and

6 black peppercorns

drain on paper towels. Reserve.

1 bay leaf 2 o z/5 7 g parsley leaves V 2 o z/1 4 g thyme leaves ’/ 2

o z/1 4 g rosemary leaves

1 o z/2 8 g garlic cloves 24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil

5 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the onions until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Shock in cold water, peel, and cut in half lengthwise. Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the extra-virgin olive oil in a large sau­ te pan over medium heat. Saute the onions until lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan, cool, and reserve. 6 . Cook the garlic slices in the remaining 2 tbsp/30

20 lamb rib chops (about 4 oz/1 IB g each), frenched

mL olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat until the edges begin to brown. Add the onions, ar­

ARTICHOKES AND ONIONS

tichokes, parsley, and oregano, and adjust season­

Juice of 3 lemons

ing with salt and pepper. Add the stock and reduce

30 baby artichokes

the liquid by three-quarters. Stir in the butter and cook until the vegetables are glazed. Reserve warm

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

while grilling the lamb.

7 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade

V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

from the lamb chops; blot dry if necessary. Season

30 cipollini onions

with salt and pepper. Wrap the bones with alumi­

2 o z/5 7 g sliced garlic 3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley

num foil, if desired. 8 . Place the chops presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­

2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano

turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each

24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)

chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, diced

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions

9 . Turn the chops over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera­

1 . Combine the peppercorns, bay leaf, parsley, thyme, rosemary, and garlic in a blender. Add 2 fl oz/6o mL of the olive oil and blend until smooth. Gradu­

ture of 145°F/63°C.

1 0 . Serve the ragout of vegetables in the middle of the plate with 2 chops on top.

ally blend in the remaining oil.

2 . Pour the marinade over the lamb chops in a hotel pan and refrigerate, covered, for a minimum of 45 minutes to overnight.

3 . Combine 1 gal/3.84 L water with the lemon juice. Peel the stems and remove the tough outer leaves of the artichokes, and split them in half length­ wise. With a spoon or parisienne scoop, remove

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G

451

Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera­ ture of i45°F/65°C. Serve 3 or 4 skewers per person with 2 fl oz/6o mL of the chutney.

M akes 1 0 servings

6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg, broken down into subprimal cuts (see page 384)

Fresh Mango Chutney M akes 32 fl o z/g6o mL

M A R IN A D E

2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mangos 1 ts p /2 g ground green cardamom 1 ts p /2 g ground cumin V 2 tsp /1 g ground nutmeg 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion 3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic 3A oz/21 g minced ginger

2 fl o z/6 0 mL lime juice 4 ts p /4 g roughly chopped cilantro 2 ts p /6 g minced ginger 1 ts p /3 g minced jalapeno (optional) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 4 f 1o z/1 2 0 mL plain yogurt

Combine all the ingredients, including the minced jalapeno, if using. Let the chutney rest in the refrig­

20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Fresh Mango Chutney (recipe follows)

erator for up to 2 hours to allow the flavors to marry. Adjust seasoning before serving, if necessary, with additional lime juice, salt, or pepper.

1 . Trim the lamb and separate it into individual mus­ cles. Remove all interior fat and gristle. Cut the meat into long, thin strips, 1 by 4 by Vs in/3 by 10 cm by 3

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango

mm.

2.. To make the marinade, toast the cardamom and cumin lightly in a dry saute pan. Add the nutmeg, onions, garlic, ginger, and pepper and toast until fragrant. Let cool. Add to the yogurt.

3 . Pour the marinade over the lamb in a hotel pan and turn to coat evenly. Marinate the lamb, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.

4 . Preheat the grill. Thread the lamb onto metal skew­ ers and allow the excess marinade to drain away.

5 . Place the lamb presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill undisturbed for about 1 minute. (Optional: Give each skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TIN G

453

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil

Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter

1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic

Makes 10 servings

Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties Makes 10 servings 2 o z/5 7 g minced onion

2 o z/5 7 g fresh white bread crumbs

Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skin-on chicken breasts

2 fl o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed

lt b s p /lO g s a lt

3 lb /1.36 kg ground lamb

V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

3 o z/8 5 g toasted pine nuts

3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil

2 eggs, beaten

Butter, as needed

1 o z/2 8 g ta h in i

10 o z /2 8 4 g Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings

3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.

1 ts p /2 g ground coriander

2 . Pound the chicken breasts to even the thickness.

2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cumin 1 ts p /2 g ground fennel seed 2 tb s p /1 8 g grated ginger

Season with salt and pepper and lightly brush with oil.

3 . Place the chicken presentation (skin) side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil

1 . Cook the onions in the oil in a small saute pan over medium heat until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute 1 minute. Remove from the heat and let cool.

2.. Soak the bread crumbs in water. Squeeze out any ex­ cess moisture. Combine with the onions and garlic.

3 . Combine the bread crumb mixture with the lamb, pine nuts, eggs, tahini, parsley, salt, pepper, spices, and ginger. Mix gently but thoroughly. Shape the mixture into ten patties and chill.

4 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Place the patties on the grill or broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each patty a quar­ ter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

5 . Turn the patties over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or to a minimum internal tem­ perature of 145°F/63°C. 6 . Serve immediately.

454

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

undisturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give each breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)

4 . Turn the chicken over and complete cooking until the chicken is cooked through (minimum internal temperature of i65°F/74°C), 6 to 8 minutes.

5 . Top each chicken breast with a serving of the sundried tomato and oregano butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the butter begins to melt. Serve at once.

Makes

10

servings

6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL olive oil 3 garlic cloves, crushed

Grilled Pai I lards of Chicken with Tarragon Butter Makes

10

servings

10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (5 to 6 o z/1 4 2 to 170 g each)

3A ts p /2 g cracked fennel seeds

MARINADE

3/t ts p /2 .5 g s a lt

2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper

2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice

10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (5 to 6 o z/1 42 to 170 g each), pounded to an even thickness

2 ts p /2 g chopped tarragon

FENNEL

V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper

1 ts p /3 g s a lt

2 o z/5 7 g butter 1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot

10 o z /2 8 4 g Tarragon Butter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g fennel, cut into julienne 2 tb sp /3 0 mL Pernod 10 fennel pluches (optional)

1 . Trim and pound the chicken into paillards (see page 380).

2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a 1 . Combine the oil, garlic, fennel seeds, V2 tsp/1.5 g of the salt, and V4 tsp/0.50 g of the pepper in a hotel pan. Add the chicken and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

2 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.

B. Place the chicken presentation side down on the

hotel pan, add the chicken, and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.

4 . Place the chicken presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­ disturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each

grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­

breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.) Turn

disturbed for about 2 minutes.

the chicken over. Continue to cook the chicken until

4 . Brush with the marinade and turn the chicken over. Continue to cook the chicken, brushing with the marinade periodically, until the chicken is cooked through (minimum internal temperature of

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel

cooked through (minimum internal temperature of i65°F/74°C), 3 to 5 minutes.

5 . Top each paillard with a serving of the tarragon but­ ter and serve immediately.

i65°F/74°C), 6 to 8 minutes. Reserve warm.

5 . For the fennel, heat the butter in a medium sauce­ pan over medium-high heat. Saute the shallots until translucent, about 1 minute. 6 . Add the fennel and cover the pan. Cook until the fennel is tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the Pernod. Ignite the Pernod and cook until the flame burns itself out. Adjust sea­ soning with salt and pepper.

7 . Serve on a bed of fennel and garnish with fennel pluches.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

455

Makes 10 servings

MARINADE

Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho Apimentado) Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL

2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice onion

V2 o z/1 4 g minced malaguetas or habaneros

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice peeled plum tomatoes

1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme

3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic

V 4 ts p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic

2 '/2 ts p /8 .5 g s a lt

3 f I o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar

I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

3 fl o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil

MIXED GRILL

Malagueta oil or hot pepper sauce, as needed

5 whole chicken legs (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g each), separated

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin 2 lb /9 0 7 g flank steak

Combine the onions, tomatoes, parsley, and garlic in

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Hot Pepper Sauce (recipe follows)

a small bowl. Mix in the vinegar and oil and season with the pepper oil or sauce, salt, and pepper.

1 . To make the marinade, combine the oil, peppers,

Cover and chill at least 1 hour prior to service. Adjust

thyme, garlic, V2 tsp/1.5 g of the salt, and V2 tsp/i g

seasoning with salt, pepper, and pepper oil or sauce,

of the pepper in a hotel pan. Marinate the chicken,

if necessary.

covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.

2.. Preheat the grill. 3 . Season the pork with 1 tsp/3 g ° f the salt and V2 tsp/i g of the pepper. Season the steak with the remain­

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Brazilian Mixed Grill

ing salt and pepper. Drain excess marinade from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.

4 . Grill the pork until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the pork to a 35o°F/i77°C oven and cook to an internal temperature of i55°F/68°C, about 10 minutes, depending on thickness. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes.

5 . Place the steak and chicken presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill the chicken until cooked through (internal temperature of i65°F/74°C), 8 to 10 minutes per side. Rotate as necessary to ensure even browning. 6 . Meanwhile, grill the steaks undisturbed for about 2 minutes. Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or to a minimum internal temperature of 145°F/63°C.

7 . Slice the pork into Vi-in/i-cm portions. Thinly slice the beef across the grain. Serve 1 chicken drumstick or thigh, 2 slices of pork loin, and 2 slices of flank steak. Serve with hot pepper sauce.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

457

Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce Makes 10 servings MARINADE 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider 2 tb s p /3 0 mL cider vinegar V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns

Black Bean Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 9 Y2

o z /269

g dried black beans, soaked overnight

50 fl o z/1.50 L Chicken Stock (page 263 ) V 2 o z/1 4 g diced bacon 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g diced onion 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 'A ts p /0.25 g chopped oregano V 2 tsp /1 g ground cumin V 2 ts p /1 .5 g chopped jalapeno 1 dried chile

CHICKEN Salt, as needed 10 boneless, skin-on chicken breasts (6 o z/1 7 0 g each) Ground black pepper, as needed 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

IV2ts p /3 g ground black pepper

V i o z/1 4 g chopped sun-dried tomato 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed

16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475) 1 ts p /5 mL sherry vinegar 20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Black Bean Sauce (recipe follows), warm

1. Com binealltheingredientsforthemarinadeina

hotelpan.Addthechickenandturntocoatitevenly. Marinatethechicken,covered,intherefrigerator for1to2hours. 2 . Preheatthegrillorbroiler. Drainexcessm arinade fromthechicken;blotdryifnecessary.Seasonwith saltandpepper. 3. Placethechickenpresentationsidedow nonthe grillrodsoruponthebroilerrods.Grillorbroilun­ disturbedforabout2minutes. (Optional:Giveeach breastaquarter-turntoachievegrillmarks.) 4 . Brushw iththebarbecuesauceandturnthechicken over.Continuetocookthechicken,brushingperi­ odicallywithalightcoatofbarbecuesauce,untilthe chickeniscookedthrough(internaltemperatureof i65°F/74°C), 6to8minutes. 5. Servethechickenonheatedplateswiththeblack beansauce.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

1. Sim merthebeansinthestockinamediumsauce­

panovermediumheatuntiltender,about1hour. Drainthebeansandreserveabout8floz/240mLof thecookingliquid. 2 . Inasecondm ediumsaucepan,renderthebacon overmediumheatuntilitreleasesitsfatandbe­ comescrisp,about5minutes.Addtheoil,onions, garlic,oregano,cumin,jalapenos,anddriedchile. Sauteovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,until theonionsarelimpandtranslucent, 6to8minutes. 3.A ddthecookedbeanstothesauteedvegetablesand heatallingredientsthoroughly.Seasonwithsaltand pepperandcookfor10to15minutesmore. 4 . Pureeone-thirdofthebeans.A ddthetomatoesand pureeuntilsmooth.Adjustthepureeconsistency withreservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Addthe pureebacktothebeans.Adjusttheconsistencywith thereservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Seasonwith lemonjuiceandvinegar. 5.Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper.Thesauce isreadytoservenow,ormayberapidlycooledand refrigeratedforlateruse.

Makes 10 servings JERK SEASONING 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g roughly chopped onion 2 'A o z/71 g roughly chopped green onion

2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark rum 2 f I o z/6 0 mL soy sauce 1 tb sp /6 g ground allspice

Fillet of Mahi Mahi with PineappleJi'cama Salsa Makes 10 servings 3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg mahi mahi fillet, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings lt b s p /lO g s a lt l

'/ 2

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

2

V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice

2

V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil

1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon 4 ts p /4 g th y m e I V 2 ts p /5 g salt

20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa (recipe follows)

V h ts p /3 g ground nutmeg 1 ts p /2 g ground cloves

1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.

1 or 2 Scotch bonnets, stems and seeds removed, roughly chopped

2.. Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lime juice.

10 game hens, butterflied 1 o z /2 8 g coarse salt

Brush the fillets lightly with the oil.

3 . Place the fish presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­ turbed for about 2 minutes.

4 . Turn the fish over and complete cooking until the 1 . Combine all the jerk seasoning ingredients in a blender. Puree to a smooth, thick paste.

flesh is opaque and firm, 3 to 5 minutes.

5 . Serve immediately with pineapple-jicama salsa.

2 . Wearing gloves, rub the jerk seasoning onto both sides of the game hens. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.

3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Season each hen with Vz tsp/2.50 g coarse salt. Place the hens presenta­

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Jerked Game Hens

Pineapple-Jfcama Salsa Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil

tion (skin) side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil for 12 minutes. Turn the

3 tb s p /4 5 mL lime juice

hens over, and cook to an internal temperature of

Salt, as needed

i65°F/74°C, about 12 minutes more.

Ground black pepper, as needed

4 . Serve immediately.

1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro 6 o z/1 7 0 g ji'cama, cut into fine julienne 8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice pineapple 4 V a o z/1 2 0 g minced red onion

4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g small-dice red pepper V 2 o z /1 4 g minced jalapeno

Mix together the oil, lime juice, salt, pepper, and ci­ lantro. Add the remaining ingredients and toss to coat. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

459

Makes

10

servings

Ten 1 lb 8 -o z /6 8 0 -g lobsters B'/z o z / 9

9

Broiled Bluefish a i'Angiaise with MaTtre d'Hotel Butter Makes

10

servings

g butter

10 o z/2 8 4 g minced onion

3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg skinless bluefish fillet, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings

5 o z/1 4 2 g minced celery

1 tb s p /1 0 g salt

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced red pepper

r

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced green pepper

2 'A f 1o z/7 5 mL lemon juice

lt b s p /lO g s a lt

4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted

r

1 o z/2 8 g fresh bread crumbs

/2

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

l ' A o z/3 5 g bread crumbs 3 tb s p /4 5 mL dry sherry

/2

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

10 o z /2 8 4 g MaTtre d'Hotel Butter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings

2 o z/5 7 g butter, melted

1 . Preheat the broiler. 1 . Preheat the broiler. 2 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the lobsters and parboil for 7 minutes. Allow the lobsters to cool slightly.

3 . Detach the claws from the bodies. Remove the meat from the claws and dice. Reserve. Split the lobster bodies. Remove the coral and tomalley and reserve to add to the stuffing, if desired.

4 . Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium-high

2 . Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Brush the fillets lightly with the butter. Dip in the bread crumbs, and gently press down on the surface.

3 . Place the fillets on a broiler rack. Broil until barely cooked through (flesh should be opaque and firm), 3 to 4 minutes.

4 . Top each fillet with a serving of the maitre d’hotel

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Broiled S tu ffe d Lobster

butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the butter begins to melt. Serve at once.

heat. Add the onions, celery, and peppers and cook until the onions are translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Sea­ son with salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Add the reserved coral and tomalley, if using, the diced claw meat, bread crumbs, and sherry. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if needed.

5 . Spoon the stuffing into the body cavity of each lob­ ster. Do not place stuffing over the tail meat. Season the tail meat with salt and pepper and brush lightly with melted butter. 6 . Place the lobsters on a broiler rack, shell side down, and broil until the stuffing begins to crisp and turn golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Serve at once.

C hapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTING

461

Fish Kebabs

Mint and Yogurt Chutney

Makes 10 servings

Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

MARINADE 10 fl oz/BOO mL sour cream 4 o z/1 1 3 g cashew nut paste B o z/8 5 g chickpea flour V 2 o z/1 4 g finely chopped Thai chiles 3 tb sp /4 5 mL lemon juice 4'/2 ts p /9 g freshly ground white pepper lt b s p /9 g garlic paste

5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g cilantro stems and leaves 5V2 o z / 1 5 6 g mint leaves

2 ts p /4 g cumin seeds 16 Thai bird chiles 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice 1 o z /2 8 g sugar Salt, as needed 20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL plain yogurt, drained overnight

1 tb sp /6 g ground fennel seed 2 ts p /4 g ajwain, crushed

1 . Combine the cilantro, mint, cumin, and chiles in a blender and puree until smooth. If necessary, add 2

1 ts p /3 g ground ginger

tbsp/30 mL of the lemon juice when blending. The

Salt, as needed

mixture should not be watery; drain if necessary.

2 . Combine the herb puree with the remaining lemon 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg black cod fillet, cut into 3-in/8-cm cubes

juice, the sugar, salt, and yogurt. Adjust seasoning,

Salt, as needed

sweet, and salty.)

Lemon juice, as needed 2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, melted 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Mint and Yogurt Chutney (recipe follows)

1 . Preheat the broiler.

2 . . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and additional chiles, if necessary.

3 . Season the fish with salt and lemon juice. Let it stand for 15 minutes.

4 . Blot with paper towels to remove the excess mois­ ture. Add the fish to the marinade. Marinate, cov­ ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.

5 . Place the fish on a rack over a sheet pan and baste with the butter. Make sure there is sufficient mari­ nade on each piece. 6 . Cook the fish under a broiler on high until the top of the fish is dark brown with spots of black, 12 to 15 minutes.

7 . Serve immediately with the mint and yogurt chutney.

462

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

if necessary. (The chutney should be minty, spicy,

3 . The chutney is ready to serve now, or may be refrig­ erated for later use.

Madeira Sauce

Makes

Makes

10

servings

4 to 5 lb/1.81 to 2.27 kg beef tenderloin lt b s p /lO g s a lt V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil 8 o z/2 2 7 g foie gras pate 2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped tru ffle peelings 1 sheet Puff Pastry Dough (page 1076) 3 f I o z/9 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023) 20 fI o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (recipe follows)

32

f l oz/g6o mL

40 fl o z/1.20 L Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293) 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Madeira Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, medium dice

1 . Bring the jus lie to a simmer over medium heat and reduce by half.

2 . Add the Madeira and simmer until the sauce has a good flavor and consistency, 2 to 3 minutes more.

1 . Season the tenderloin with salt and pepper. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over high heat. Sear the

Season with salt and pepper.

3 . Whisk in the butter over low heat just before serving.

tenderloin on all sides. Remove from the pan and let cool.

M arsala Sauce: Replace the Madeira w ith Marsala.

2 . Spread the surface of the tenderloin with the pate and sprinkle with the truffles.

3 . Roll the dough out to 3/16 in/5 mm thick. Place the tenderloin in the center of the dough. Wrap the dough around the tenderloin. Fold the ends under and roll over so the seam is on the bottom. Brush with egg wash.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Beef Wellington

4 . Place the beef, seam side down, on an oiled sheet pan in a 400°F/204°C oven. Bake until the puff pastry is lightly browned, and the meat reaches a minimum internal temperature of 145°F/63°C, about 20 minutes. (Use a convection oven if possible.) Remove from the oven and let rest 15 minutes.

5 . Cut into %-in/2-cm slices. Serve immediately with the Madeira sauce on the side.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

463

Standing Rib Roast au Jus Makes 25 servings

Veal Shoulder Poele Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg boneless veal shoulder r

14 lb /6.35 kg bone-in beef rib roast (see Note) V A o z/3 5 g salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g rough-cut Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)

/2

ts p /5 g salt

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper ]A ts p /0 .2 5 g finely chopped rosemary V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g basil chiffonade '/2

ts p /0.50 g finely chopped thyme

V 2 ts p /0.50 g finely chopped marjoram 2 garlic cloves, minced

1 . Season the beef with salt and pepper.

2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, plus more as needed

2 . Place the beef on a rack in a roasting pan and roast

2 o z/5 7 g diced slab bacon or smoked ham

in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it reaches an internal temperature of 125°F/52°C.

3 . Add the mirepoix about 30 minutes before the roast is done and let it brown.

4 . Remove the roast from the pan and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.

5 . While the roast is resting, place the roasting pan on the stovetop. Cook until the mirepoix is well

8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste (o p tio n a l) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine 2 bay leaves 1 ts p /3 g cornstarch, diluted in water or stock to make a slurry

browned, the fat is clear, about 5 minutes, and the pan drippings have reduced. Degrease as needed.

1 . Butterfly the veal. Season it with salt and pepper.

Deglaze the roasting pan with the stock. Adjust sea­

2 . Mix together the rosemary, basil, thyme, marjoram,

soning with salt and pepper. Strain and reserve in a

and garlic. Spread this mixture evenly over the in­

bain-marie. Hold hot for service.

side of the veal. Roll and tie the veal roast.

6 . Slice the beef and serve immediately with the jus. NOTE: A standard rib roast can range from 14 lb/6.35 kg to as much as 22 lb/9.97 kg.

3 . To make the matignon, melt the butter in a lidded sauteuse over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mirepoix. Cook until a light golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the to­ mato paste, if desired, and cook briefly.

4 . Place the veal on top of the matignon and baste with some additional butter.

5 . Cover the pan and place in a 300°F/i49°C oven, bast­ ing every 20 minutes, for about 1 hour. Remove the lid for the last 30 minutes to allow the veal to brown. 6 . Check for doneness: the meat should be tender when pierced with a fork. Remove the veal from the pan and keep warm.

7 . Add the stock, wine, and bay leaves to the pan and simmer for 20 minutes. Degrease if necessary. 8 . Thicken with the slurry and reduce, if necessary. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

9 . Slice the veal into portions and serve with the sauce.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

Makes 1 0 servings 4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 kg bone-in pork loin roast

Baked S tu ffe d Pork Chops Makes 1 0 servings

V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic 1 ts p /1 g minced rosem ary lt b s p /lO g s a lt

V/ 2

10 ce n te r-c u t pork chops (8 to 1 0 o z /2 2 7 to 2 8 4 g, I V 2 in /4 cm thick)

STUFFING

ts p /3 g ground black pepper 2 fl o z /6 0 mL vegetable oil

JUS LIE 8 o z /2 2 7 g m edium -dice S tandard M irepo ix (page 2 4 3 )

4 o z /1 1 3 g minced onion 3 o z /8 5 g minced celery 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

2 tb s p /3 0 mL to m ato paste 4 fl o z /1 2 0 mL dry w hite wine

1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g dried bread crumbs 1 tb s p /3 g chopped parsley

1 q t /9 6 0 mL Brown Veal S to ck (page 2 6 3 ) 2 thym e sprigs 1 bay leaf

1 ts p /1 g rubbed sage 2 t s p /6 . 5 g s a l t 1 t s p /2 g ground black pepper

2 t b s p /3 0 mL a rro w ro o t slurry, or as needed 6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL Chicken S to ck (page 2 6 3 ), or as needed

1 . Trim the pork loin and tie. Rub the roast with the

2 4 fl o z /7 2 0 mL D em i-G lace (page 2 9 3 )

garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Place the pork loin on a rack in a roasting pan of appropriate size.

2 . Roast at 375°F/igi°C for 1 hour, basting from time to time. Scatter the mirepoix around the pork and con­ tinue to roast until an instant-read thermometer in­

1 . Cut a pocket in each chop and refrigerate until the stuffing is prepared and properly cooled.

2 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until golden brown, 8 to

serted in the center of the meat registers 145°F/63°C,

10 minutes. Add the celery and garlic and cook until the

30 to 45 minutes more.

celery is limp, 8 to 10 minutes more. Spread out on a

3 . Remove the pork from the roasting pan and allow it to rest for 20 minutes before carving.

4 . To prepare the jus lie, place the roasting pan on the

sheet pan and allow to cool completely.

3 . Combine the onion mixture with the bread crumbs, parsley, and sage. Season with the salt and pepper. Add

stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and

enough of the stock to make a stuffing that is moist but

the fat is clear, about 5 minutes. Pour off all the fat.

not wet. Chill the stuffing until it reaches 40°F/4°C.

Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently,

4 . Divide the stuffing into 10 equal portions and place 1

until it has a sweet aroma and brick-red color, 30 to

portion into the cavity of each pork chop. Secure the

45 seconds. Add the wine and deglaze the pan. Re­

chops closed with skewers.

duce the wine slightly to cook off the alcohol flavor.

5 . Add the stock, stirring to release the fond completely.

5 . Season the chops with salt and pepper. Heat the re­ maining 2 tbsp/30 mL oil in a large saute pan over

Add the thyme and bay leaf, and simmer the jus for

high heat. Sear the pork chops until golden brown on

20 to 30 minutes, or until it reaches the proper con­

both sides. Transfer to a sheet pan and finish cooking

sistency and flavor. Add slurry to thicken the sauce

in a 350°F/i77°C oven to an internal temperature of

enough to coat the back of a spoon. Degrease and

145°F/63°C.

adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. 6 . Strain the jus lie through a fine-mesh sieve and keep it hot for service. Carve the pork loin into portions and serve immediately with the jus lie.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Pork Roast with Jus Lie

(5 . Meanwhile, pour off any excess oil from the saute pan. Add the demi-glace and bring to a simmer. Degrease the sauce if necessary. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

7 . Serve the stuffed pork chops with the sauce.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

465

Cantonese Roast Pork ( Cha r Si u) Makes 10 servings

5 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients. Pour the marinade over the pork in a hotel pan and massage it into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight, turning the meat occasionally. 6 . Remove the pork from the marinade and wipe off

4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork butt

the excess (reserve excess marinade for glazing).

BRINE

Place the pork on a wire rack in a roasting pan.

1 g al/3.84 L water 4 o z /1 1 3 g s a lt 4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar

7 . Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of the oven, and set the oven to 325°F/i63°C. 8 . Place the pork in the oven and roast, glazing ev­ ery 30 minutes with the reserved marinade, until

Peel of 1 orange

it reaches an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C,

1 cinnamon stick

about 1V2 hours.

1 tb sp /6 g black peppercorns 1 tb sp /6 g Szechwan peppercorns

9 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve garnished with green onions or chop and use to fill pork buns.

3 star anise pods V i o z/1 4 g ginger, crushed 10 dried Chinese chiles 1 bunch green onions, bruised MARINADE 3 f I o z/9 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) or Brown Pork Stock (page 264) 2 fl o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing) I V 2 o z/4 3 g brown sugar 2 tb s p /3 0 mL mushroom soy sauce 4 ts p /2 0 mL hoisin sauce 1 tbsp brown bean paste 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil 1 ts p /3 g Chinese Five-Spice Powder (page 368)

5 o z /1 4 2 g sliced green onions

1 . Cut the pork into rectangles 3 by 8 by 3 in/8 by 20 by 8 cm. Refrigerate until the brine is ready.

2 . Bring the water for the brine to a boil and add the re­ maining brine ingredients. Stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Cool the brine to room temperature.

3 . Place the pork in the cooled brine, cover, and refrig­ erate for 8 hours or overnight.

4 . Remove the pork from the brine, pat dry, and discard the brine.

M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Guava Barbecue Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 ml

Makes 10 servings 12 o z/3 4 0 g guava marmalade MARINADE 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL water 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine vinegar 8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped onion 2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped cilantro 2 o z/5 7 g chopped oregano '/ 2

o z/1 4 g ground cumin

2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper 10 garlic cloves

13 lb /5.90 kg pork baby back ribs 24 fl o z /7 2 0 mL Guava Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)

2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste 1 o z/2 8 g molasses 1 o z/2 8 g dry mustard 1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 3/ t o z/2 1 g minced garlic 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry sherry 1 Scotch bonnet, minced 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 4 f l o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice

1 . In a medium saucepan, combine the marmalade, to­ 1 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a blender and puree.

2 .. Place the ribs in a large, nonreactive container and coat with the marinade. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.

3 . Transfer the ribs and marinade to a rondeau or kettle

mato paste, molasses mustard, cumin, garlic, sherry, Scotch bonnet, and water. Season with salt and pepper.

2 . Simmer the sauce for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

3 . Add the lime juice when the sauce has cooled. The

and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain off the liquid and

sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for

allow the ribs to cool.

later use.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs

4 . Place the ribs on roasting racks on sheet pans. Roast the ribs for 20 to 25 minutes in a 350°F/i77°C oven. Brush the barbecue sauce on both sides of the ribs and roast for 8 to 10 minutes more. Brush the ribs with sauce again, turn so the meaty side is up, and roast the ribs for 8 to 10 minutes more, until they are well glazed.

5 . Serve immediately.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G

467

Makes 10 servings

North Carolina Western Barbecue Sauce

12 lb /5.44 kg pork butt

Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

1 o z /2 8 g s a lt

r

V i o z/1 4 g ground black pepper

4’/ 2 t s p /9 g paprika

10 sandwich buns, split and toasted

472 ts p /9 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina Piedmont Sauce (recipe follows)

4'/z ts p /9 g dry mustard

/2

o z/4 3 g brown sugar

1 ts p /3 g s a lt 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina Western Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Mustard Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)

3/ t ts p /1 .50 g cayenne 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Worcestershire sauce 6 fl o z/2 4 0 mL white vinegar 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL ketchup

1 . Season the pork butt with the salt and pepper. Roast in a 300°F/i49°C oven until tender, about 5 hours.

2 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to cool slightly. When cool enough to handle, shred or chop the pork.

3 . For each portion, serve about 6 oz/170 g of the pork on a toasted bun with the sauces on the side.

2 flo z /6 0 m L w a te r

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust sea­ soning with salt and cayenne, if necessary. The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.

North Carolina Piedmont Sauce

Mustard Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina Eastern Low Country Sauce)

Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL

Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL white vinegar

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil

15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL cider vinegar

1 lb /4 5 4 g chopped onion

3'/> ts p /7 g red pepper flakes

I V 2 o z/4 3 g minced garlic

3 tb sp /4 5 mLTabasco sauce

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL white vinegar

l 3/ t o z /50

11 f I o z/3 3 0 mL spicy brown mustard

g sugar

4 ts p /8 g cracked black peppercorns

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Carolina Barbecue

2 ts p /4 g celery seed 3’/2 o z/9 9 g sugar

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute.

2 . Add the remaining ingredients and bring the mixture to a simmer to melt the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the flavors to blend, about 30 min­ utes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

3 . The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use. c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

469

Pork Butt with Coleslaw

l ’/ 2 o z/4 3 g sugar l

'/ 2

ts p /3 g celery seed

1 tb s p /1 5 mL hot sauce

Makes 10 servings

1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

2 3/t o z /7 8 g s a lt

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

2'A

o z/6 4 g coarsely ground black pepper

1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g shredded green cabbage

13A

o z/5 0 g adobo spice

7 '/* o z/2 0 6 g shredded carrots

13 lb 10 o z/6.18 kg bone-in pork butt l

’/ 2

q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (page 475)

1 . Combine the salt, pepper, and adobo spice in a

small bowl to create a dry rub. MAYONNAISE

2

.

3 tb s p /4 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks 1 tb s p /1 5 mL water

Locate and remove the gland on the pork butt lo­ cated opposite the blade bone.

3 . Rub the spice mixture over the pork butt. Mari­

1 tb sp /1 5 mL white wine vinegar

nate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight or up to

'A o z/7 g Dijon mustard

24 hours.

4 . Allow the meat to rest at room temperature for at

’/4 ts p /1 .2 5 g sugar

least 1 hour before smoking.

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL vegetable oil 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice 1 ts p /3 g salt

.

Place the pork butts in the smoker fat side up, leav­

7 . Smoke the pork until very tender, with an internal temperature of 170°F/77°C, 10 to 12 hours. Final

COLESLAW 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL sour cream 2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar '/2

6

ing no more than 1 in/3 cm between the butts.

2 pinches ground white pepper

3

5 . Preheat the smoker to i95°F/9i°C.

ts p /7 g dry mustard

smoking time will depend on the size of the butts. Remove the pork from the smoker and remove the bone. Allow the pork to rest for 45 minutes.

9 . Use your fingers or two forks to pull apart the meat. Warm the barbecue sauce. Combine the meat with just enough sauce to coat. Hold the meat and sauce warm, separately, for service. To make the mayonnaise, combine the yolks, wa­ ter, vinegar, mustard, and sugar in a medium bowl. Whisk until slightly foamy. Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly beating with the whisk until the oil is incorporated and the mayonnaise is smooth and thick. Season with the salt, pepper, and lemon juice. To make the coleslaw, combine the prepared mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, mustard, sugar, celery seed, and hot sauce in a large bowl and mix until smooth. Season with the salt and pepper. Add the cabbage and carrots and toss until evenly When the b u tt is smoked properly, the bone w ill slide out easily.

470

The smoked meat should be tender enough to easily pull apart w ith your fingers.

M EAT S, P O U L T R Y FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

coated. Serve 10V2 oz/297 g of the finished sauced pork with 4 oz/113 g ° f the prepared coleslaw and some of the barbecue sauce.

Smoked Brisket with Sweet Rickies

1 . Remove excess fat from the cap, leaving only V2 to % in/i to 2 cm on the surface of the meat. Do not re­ move the deckle.

2.

Makes 10 servings

Combine the salt, chili powder, paprika, pepper, gar­ lic powder, and onion powder in a small bowl. Rub

20 lb /9.07 kg beef brisket, cap on

the spice mixture evenly over the brisket. Rest the

2 3/ t o z/7 8 g salt

brisket overnight in the refrigerator, covered.

2 o z/5 7 g dark chili powder

3 . Let the brisket sit out at room temperature for 1 hour prior to smoking.

l 3/ i o z/5 0 g paprika V A o z/3 5 g coarsely ground black pepper

4 . Preheat smoker to i95°F/9i°C (see Note).

3A o z/21 g garlic powder

5 . Place the brisket into the smoker fat side up, leaving about 1 in/3 cm between pieces of meat. Smoke the

3/ * o z/21 g onion powder

meat until very tender, 10 to 12 hours (about 1 hour per pound).

SWEET PICKLES 2 lb /9 0 7 g cucumbers (Kirby)

6 . To make the sweet pickles, wash the cucumbers and

8 o z/2 2 7 g onions

slice them about lA in/6 mm thick. Slice the onions %

12 f 1o z/3 60 mL cider vinegar

in/6 mm thick.

7 . Combine the cucumbers, onions, cider vinegar, salt,

V A ts p /5 g salt

mustard seeds, 1 tbsp/15 g of the sugar, and the water '/> ts p /2 g mustard seeds

in a large nonreactive sauce pot. Simmer for 10 min­

14 o z /3 9 7 g sugar

utes. Drain and transfer to a storage container.

1 q t/9 6 0 m L water

8 . Bring the white vinegar, celery seed, allspice, turmeric, and the remaining sugar to a boil in a medium pot.

10 fl o z/3 0 0 g white vinegar 1 tb s p /1 4 g celery seed

9 . Pour the vinegar mixture over the cucumbers and onions. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 days before

V/2 ts p /5 g allspice, crushed

serving. The pickles can now be stored, refrigerated,

1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Chef Clark's SouthwestStyle Sauce (recipe follows)

for up to 1 week.

1 0 . Serve the brisket with the sweet pickles and some of the Southwest-style sauce. NOTE: Keep the smoker tem perature around 195°F/91°C. At this tem perature the fa t on the surface w ill melt, rather than boil, as it can do at higher temperatures.

Chef Clark's Southwest-Style Sauce Makes 20 fl oz/6oo mL 2 o z/5 7 g butter 4 3/ * o z/1 3 5 g diced onion '/ 2

0 z /1 4 g garlic

1 o z/2 8 g minced Thai chiles 1 o z/2 8 g Chili Powder (page 36 8 or purchased) It is vita l to apply the spice rub evenly.

472

Ideally the finished brisket should have a smoke ring o f V a to V 2 in/6 to 13 mm.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

4 o z /1 13 g strong brewed coffee 4Y4 o z/1 2 8 g Worcestershire sauce

2 fl o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar l 3/4 o z/5 0 g brown sugar V 2 o z /1 4 g cornstarch 2 fl o z/6 0 mL water

J . Stir in the chili powder and continue to cook until the flavor of the chili powder is developed, 2 to 3 minutes more.

4 . Stir in the coffee, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, vinegar, and sugar. Simmer until good flavor devel­ ops, about 45 minutes.

5 . Whisk the cornstarch with the water in a small bowl 1 . Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat until translucent, 4 to 5 minutes.

2 . Add the garlic and chiles and cook until the mixture is aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes more.

until it is smooth. 6 . Stir the slurry into the sauce to adjust the thickness. Bring the sauce back to a boil before cooling.

7 . The sauce is now ready to use or can be stored, re­ frigerated, for up to 1 week.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL ketchup

473

Barbecue Sauce

Makes 10 servings

Makes lVi qt/1.44 L

2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt

1 q t/9 6 0 mL ketchup

4 ts p /8 g dried thyme

9 o z/2 5 5 g white wine vinegar

1 tb sp /6 g coarsely ground black pepper

4 o z /1 1 3 g water

3 tb s p /1 8 g celery seed

3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g dark brown sugar

4 tb s p /2 4 g paprika

2 '/2

3 tb sp /31 g onion powder

3/ t o z/21 g paprika

27 lb /1 2 .2 5 kg St. Louis-style spare ribs

V * o z/21 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)

r

3/ t o z/21 g dry mustard

/2

q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)

2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg Coleslaw (page 470)

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

St. Louis-Style Ribs

f I o z/7 5 mL Worcestershire sauce

2 tsp /6.5 g salt l ’/ 2 t s p /3 g cayenne

1 . Combine the salt, thyme, pepper, celery seed, pa­ prika, and onion powder in a medium bowl. Rub

Combine all of the ingredients in a blender and pro­

the mixture evenly over the spare ribs. Rest the ribs,

cess until smooth. Use immediately or refrigerate.

covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.

The sauce can be stored for up to 3 weeks.

2 . Preheat the smoker to i95°F/9i°C (see Note). 3 . Smoke the ribs until the meat pulls away from the rib tips by 3/s to Vi in/9 t0 13 mm>about 4V2 hours. The meat should easily remove from the bone and the bone should appear dry within 10 to 15 seconds.

4 . Remove the ribs from the smoker. Brush both sides with some of the barbecue sauce. Place the ribs pre­ sentation side down on the rods of a hot grill. Grill undisturbed until the sauce begins to caramelize. Turn the ribs over and grill until the sauce on the second side begins to caramelize.

5 . Portion the ribs and serve with the barbecue sauce and coleslaw. NOTE: Many types o f wood can be used; the traditional choices are hickory, cherry, or mesquite.

Cut the finished ribs into individual portions.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G

475

Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu/

Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere

Makes 10 servings

Makes 10 servings

3 tb sp /4 5 mL dark soy sauce

9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note)

3 tb s p /4 5 m L sherry

I V 4 o z/3 5 g salt

5 pork spare rib racks, trimmed

1 tb sp /6 gground black pepper

MARINADE

1 o z/2 8 g slivered garlic

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL hoisin sauce

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg russet potatoes, sliced Ve in /3 mm thick

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Chinese black bean sauce 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL ketchup 1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic 2 ts p /6 g minced ginger 1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper ’/ 2

o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onions

2 f I o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing) 2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil

8 o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced onion 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Brown Lamb Stock (page 264) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)

1 . Season the lamb with some of the salt and pepper and stud it with the slivered garlic.

2 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast at

lt b s p /lO g s a lt

400°F/204°C for 1 hour, basting from time to time.

3Vz o z/9 9 g sugar

Remove the lamb from the pan and pour off the fat.

LACQUER COATING 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL honey 1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil

3 . Layer the potatoes and onions in the roasting pan, seasoning the layers with the remaining salt and pepper. Add enough stock to moisten well.

4 . Place the lamb on the potatoes. Continue to roast until the desired doneness, or to a minimum inter­

1 . Combine the soy sauce and sherry and brush on the ribs.

2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Pour over the ribs in a deep hotel pan and massage it into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or over­ night, turning occasionally.

3 . Remove the ribs from the marinade and wipe off the excess. Place the ribs on a wire rack in a roasting pan.

4

.

nal temperature of 145°F/63°C. The potatoes should be tender.

5 . Remove the roasting pan from the oven and allow the lamb to rest before carving. 6 . Heat the jus de veau lie over medium heat while the lamb rests.

7 . Carve the lamb into slices. For each portion, place 3

Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of

oz/85 g potatoes and onions on a heated plate. Top with 6 oz/170 g roasted lamb and ladle 2 fl oz/6o mL

the oven, and set the oven to 325°F/i63°C.

sauce over the lamb. Serve at once.

5 . Place the ribs in the oven and roast until they reach an internal temperature of 150°F/66°C, about 1V2 hours. 6 . To make the lacquer coating, combine the honey and sesame oil. During the last 20 minutes of roasting, brush the ribs with the mixture.

7 . Remove the ribs from the oven and allow them to rest for 10 minutes. Cut the racks in half, or into in­ dividual ribs, before serving.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44 kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.

Makes 8 servings

Persillade Makes 12 oz/340 g 5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs 2 ts p /6 g garlic paste

Two 2 -lb /9 0 7 -g frenched racks of lamb V A o z/3 5 g chopped parsley 2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil 3V2 o z/9 9 g butter, melted lt b s p /lO g s a lt 2 ts p /6 .5 g s a lt V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper 1 tsp /1 g chopped rosemary

Mix all the ingredients together to make an evenly

1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme

moistened mixture. Place in a tightly sealed con­

10 o z/2 8 4 g diced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

tainer and refrigerate or use as needed.

V A q t/1 .2 0 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 264) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 12 o z/3 4 0 g Persillade (recipe follows)

1 . Lightly brush the lamb with oil, season with salt and pepper, and rub with the chopped rosemary and thyme. Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan.

2 . Roast at 400°F/204°C for 15 minutes, basting pe­ riodically with rendered juices and fat. Scatter the mirepoix around the lamb, reduce the heat to 325°F/i63°C, and continue to roast to the desired internal doneness. Transfer the lamb to a sheet pan and keep warm.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Roast Rack o f kamb Persille

3 . To make the jus, place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Deglaze with the stock, stirring to release the fond completely. Simmer until it reaches the desired consistency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and adjust season­ ing with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and keep warm.

4 . Spread half of the persillade on top of each rack of lamb. Return the lamb to the oven until the persil­ lade is lightly browned.

5 . Cut the lamb into chops and serve with the sauce.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , BR O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G

477

Roasted Shoulder o f Lamb and Couscous

5 . Cover the lamb and continue to cook until the meat is extremely tender, 2 to 3 hours. Check the waterand-oil level every 30 minutes and add water if it appears too low.

( M e c h o u i ) Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, soft 2 o z/5 7 g garlic, mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt

6 . Remove the meat and keep it warm. Place the roast­ ing pan on the stovetop.

7 . Degrease the liquid in the pan. Gradually add the slurry, whisking constantly. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley

8 . Combine all the ingredients for the condiment mix.

3/ t o z/21 g roughly chopped cilantro

9 . Thinly slice the lamb and serve immediately with

1 tb sp /6 g dried thyme 1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 1 tb sp /6 g paprika 10 lb /4.54 kg lamb shoulder, square cut, excess fa t and silverskin removed 1 o z /2 8 g salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water, or as needed 1 tb sp /9 g cornstarch, mixed with 1 tb s p /1 5 mL water to make a slurry CONDIMENT 1 tb s p /1 0 g coarse salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

3 lb /1 .3 6 kg Couscous (page 826), hot

1 . Mix the butter with the garlic, parsley, cilantro, thyme, cumin, and paprika.

2 . Season the lamb with about l tsp/3 g of the salt and Vi tsp/0.50 g of the pepper. Coat the lamb with the seasoned butter.

3 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Add enough of the oil and water to cover the bottom of the pan but not touch the lamb. (The amount need­ ed will depend on the size of pan used.)

4 . Roast uncovered in a 350°F/i77°C oven, basting ev­ ery 15 minutes, until a deep caramel color develops, about 45 minutes.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

the couscous and condiment mix.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs

beans are tender but not mushy, about 30 minutes more. Remove the bay leaves and parsley sprigs and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Set aside to keep warm.

( G i g o t

a

lo

B r e t o n n e )

Makes 10 servings

4 . While the beans are cooking, heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed saute pan and add the remaining onions and chopped garlic. Saute over low heat, stir­

HARICOTS BLANCS

ring, until golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the toma­

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried haricots blancs

toes and thyme. Cook over medium heat, stirring

2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g chopped onion

from time to time, for 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, and add to the beans.

5 . Make some incisions into the leg and slip in the sliv­

3/ t o z/21 g chopped garlic

ers of garlic. Rub with the oil and season with salt

2 bay leaves

and pepper.

2 parsley sprigs 1 tb sp /10 g salt r

/2

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

6 . Sear the lamb on all sides in a roasting pan on the stovetop.

7 . Place in a 400°F/204°C oven. After 15 minutes, add the boiling water to the roasting pan. Roast, basting

1 o z/2 8 g butter

the lamb with the pan juices from time to time, until

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomatoes

an instant-read thermometer registers a minimum of

V 2 ts p /0.50 g thyme leaves

roasting pan and let it rest in a warm spot.

LAMB 9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note) V t. o z/1 4 g slivered garlic ltb s p /1 5 m L olive oil

145°F/63°C, about 1 hour. Remove the lamb from the 8 . Degrease the roasting pan. Deglaze with the white wine and reduce by half. Stir the pan juices into the beans. If necessary, bring the beans back up to serv­ ing temperature.

9 . Slice the lamb and serve it on a bed of the beans.

1 tb s p /1 0 g salt r

/2

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL boiling water 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine

1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans using the long or short soak method (see page 753). Drain the soaked beans.

2 . Cover the beans with water in a large soup pot and bring to a boil. Skim off all the scum that rises to the top, remove from the heat and drain. In the same pot, heat the oil and add 4 oz/113 g of the onions and 2 tsp/6 g of the chopped garlic. Cook over low heat until the onions begin to soften. Return the beans to the pot and add enough cold water to cover by 2 in/5 cm. Bring to a boil, add the bay leaves and parsley sprigs, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes.

3 . Add the salt and an additional 2 tsp/6 g of the chopped garlic. Cover and continue to cook until the

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44 kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.

Makes 10 servings

Salt Herbs Makes 2 oz/57 g V A o z/3 5 g salt 4 ts p /4 g rosemary leaves

6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg 4 ts p /4 g thyme leaves 3/ t oz/21 g Salt Herbs (recipe follows) 1 ts p /2 g black peppercorns '/ 2

o z/1 4 g minced garlic 6 bay leaves

2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 4 o z /l l B g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

Combine all the ingredients in a clean spice grinder

M IN T SAUCE

tight container and let rest for 12 hours before using.

and grind to a medium-fine powder. Put in an air­

24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293) 2 o z/5 7 g mint stems or sprigs 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 1 o z/2 8 g mint chiffonade

1 . Rub the lamb on all sides with the salt herbs and gar­ lic. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight.

2 . Roll and tie the roast. Rub it with oil and place it on a rack in a roasting pan.

3 . Roast at 350°F/i77°C for 45 minutes, basting from time to time.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Roast Leg o f Lamb with Mint Sauce

4 . Scatter the mirepoix around the lamb and continue to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers a minimum of 145°F/63°C, 30 to 40 minutes longer. Remove the lamb from the roasting pan and allow it to rest.

5 . To make the mint sauce, place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Add the demiglace, stirring to release the fond completely. Add the mint stems and simmer until the sauce reaches the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and season with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Finish with mint chiffonade. 6 . Carve the lamb into portions and serve it with the mint sauce.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

481

Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy

Chicken Legs with Duxelles S tu ffin g

Makes 10 servings

Makes 10 servings

5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each), wing tips removed and reserved

Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g chicken leg quarters DUXELLES STUFFING

2 o z/5 7 g salt 6 o z/1 7 0 g minced shallot 4 ts p /8 g ground white pepper 2 o z/5 7 g butter 5 thyme sprigs 2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mushrooms 5 rosemary sprigs lt b s p /lO g s a lt 5 bay leaves 2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper 5 f 1o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g large-dice Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243)

8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream that has been reduced by half 8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs

2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley V/ 4 q t/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3), hot 2 o z/5 7 g butter, melted

1 . Season the cavity of each chicken with salt and pep­ per. Place l sprig each of thyme and rosemary and l

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Supreme Sauce (page 294)

bay leaf inside each cavity.

2 . Rub the skin of the chickens with butter and truss each chicken with twine.

3 . Place chickens, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting pan in a 450°F/232°C oven. Scatter the wing tips in the pan. Once the chickens have developed a golden brown appearance, turn down the temperature to 3 5 0 °F /i7 7 °C .

4 . Roast for 45 minutes, basting from time to time. Scatter the mirepoix around the chickens and con­ tinue to roast until the thigh meat registers an inter­ nal temperature of i65°F/74°C.

5 . Remove the chickens from the roasting pan and al­ low them to rest. Hold warm. 6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un­ til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all but 3 tbsp/45 mL of the fat.

1 . Bone out the chicken legs. Lay the meat between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap. Pound the legs flat with a mallet. Refrigerate until needed.

2 . To make the duxelles stuffing, sweat the shallots in the butter in a sautoir over medium-high heat until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and saute them until dry to create a duxelles. Season the duxelles with some of the salt and pepper.

3 . Add the cream, bread crumbs, and parsley and mix well. If desired, the duxelles can be chilled now and reserved for later use.

4 . Season the chicken legs with the remaining salt and pepper. Portion 3 oz/85 g of the duxelles onto each chicken leg. Fold the meat over the stuffing and place the stuffed legs on a rack in a roasting pan with the seam side down.

5 . Brush the chicken legs with the melted butter.

7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 2 minutes,

Roast in a 375°F/i9i°C oven, basting occasionally,

Whisk in the stock until completely smooth.

until a thermometer inserted in the center of the

8 . Simmer the gravy at about i 8 o°F/82°C until it

legs reaches a temperature of i65°F/74°C, 25 to 30

reaches the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30

minutes. The chicken legs should be a light golden

minutes. Degrease and adjust seasoning with salt

brown.

and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.

9 . Cut the chickens in half and serve them immediately with the pan gravy.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

6 . Serve each chicken leg on a heated plate with 2 fl oz/6o mL of the sauce.

Makes 10 servings Ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skinless chicken breasts ’/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper MARINADE

Breast o f Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcemeat Makes 10 servings

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider Ten 1 lb 4 -o z /5 6 7 -g Rock Cornish game hens 2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar V i o z/1 4 g minced shallot

2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg Mushroom Forcemeat (recipe follows)

2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

1 tb s p /1 0 g salt l

1 . Rinse the chicken, pat dry, season with salt and pep­ per, and place in a shallow hotel pan.

2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade and

'/ 2

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter, melted 2 0 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (page 463)

pour over the chicken, turning to coat evenly. Mari­ nate, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or up to overnight.

3 . Place the chicken on a rack over lightly dampened hardwood chips in a roasting pan. Cover tightly and heat in a 450°F/232°C oven until the smell of smoke

1 . Remove the breasts from the hens and make them into supremes. Refrigerate until needed. Remove the leg and thigh meat and prepare the mushroom force­ meat.

2 . Loosen the skin from the breast meat. Season the

is apparent, 6 to 8 minutes. Smoke for 3 minutes

breasts on all sides with salt and pepper. Pipe about

from that point. Transfer the chicken to a baking pan

2 oz/57 g ° f the forcemeat between the skin and

and finish roasting (without smoke) in a 350°F/i77°C

meat of each breast. Smooth the surface to spread

oven until cooked through (i65°F/74°C), 10 to 12

the forcemeat evenly.

minutes more.

4 . Serve immediately or cool and refrigerate until needed.

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

Pan-Smoked Chicken

3 . Place the stuffed breasts in a baking dish. Brush lightly with butter. Roast in a preheated 35o°F/i77°C oven to an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 20 to 25 minutes. Baste with additional butter or any pan juices during baking time.

4 . Heat the Madeira sauce and serve 2 fl oz/6o mL with each breast (2 supremes). NOTE: Optional plating: slice each breast on a slight diagonal into 4 slices and fan the slices out on a warm plate.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

483

Mushroom Forcemeat Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg 12 o z/3 4 0 g Rock Cornish game hens leg and thigh meat, small dice (see Note)

Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade Makes 10 servings

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt

Five 5 lb 8 -o z/2 .5 0 -k g ducklings

V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper

'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt

T/2

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

oz/ 7

1 g minced bacon

1 o z /2 8 g butter

25 parsley stems

1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot

5 thyme sprigs

1 garlic clove, minced

5 bay leaves

10 o z/2 8 4 g minced white mushrooms

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)

10 o z/2 8 4 g minced morels

SAUCE BIGARADE

1 thyme sprig

3A o z/2 1g su g a r

1 bay leaf

ltb s p /1 5 m L water

4 sage leaves

2 tb sp /3 0 mL white wine

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Madeira

2 tb sp /3 0 mL cider vinegar

le g g

3 fl o z/9 0 mL blood orange juice

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream

1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293) 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)

1 . Season the meat with salt and pepper and refrigerate until needed.

2 . Place the bacon and butter in a saute pan over me­ dium heat. Render the bacon until crisp. Add the

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 5 blood oranges

shallots and garlic and saute until aromatic. Add all the mushrooms and sweat until barely tender. Add the thyme, bay leaf, sage, and Madeira. Reduce until

1 . Rinse and trim the ducklings, removing the fat from the body cavity (reserve for another use, if desired).

almost dry. Remove and discard the bay leaf, thyme,

Place the ducklings, breast side up, on a rack in a

and sage. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

roasting pan. Season them with salt and pepper.

Chill the mixture to below 40°F/4°C.

Place 5 parsley stems, 1 thyme sprig, and 1 bay leaf

3 . Process the diced meat and egg to a paste in a food processor, scraping down the bowl periodically. Add the cream and pulse the machine on and off until

into the cavity of each bird.

2 . Roast the ducklings at 425°F/2i8°C until the juices run barely pink and the thigh meat registers

the cream is just incorporated. Transfer to a bowl.

i65°F/74°C, about 1 hour. Remove the ducklings

Fold in the cooled mushroom mixture. Hold chilled

from the pan and rest for at least 10 minutes before

until ready to use.

carving.

NOTE: This forcem eat can be prepared using any lean diced poultry meat to replace the leg and thigh meat from the game hens.

3 . Degrease and deglaze the pan with the stock. Strain and reserve the drippings.

4 . While the duck is roasting, make the sauce. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan. Cook over me­ dium heat until the sugar melts and caramelizes to a deep golden brown, about 1 minute.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

well and simmer over medium-high heat until re­ duced by half, about 1 minute. Stir to dissolve any lumps. 6 . Add the demi-glace and stock and bring the sauce to a boil. Add the reserved pan drippings. Reduce the

with Pan Gravy and Chestnut S tu ffin g Makes 10 servings

heat and simmer over medium heat until a good fla­ vor and consistency develops, about 15 minutes. Sea­

13 lb /5.90 kg whole turkey

son with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through

lt b s p /lO g s a lt

cheesecloth and reserve warm.

7 . Remove the zest from the blood oranges, cut it into julienne, and blanch. Cut the flesh of the oranges into supremes. 8 . Carve the duck for service by cutting away the breast from the rib and cutting the leg away from the body. Place the duck pieces on a sizzler platter, overlap­

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 2 onions, peeled and quartered 12 to 15 parsley stems 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

ping the leg and breast portions, skin side facing up.

2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour

Brush the duckling with a small amount of the sauce

40 fl o z/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot

and reheat in a 45O°F/2320C oven until it is crisp, about 5 minutes.

9 . Pool 2 fl oz/6o mL of the sauce on each plate and place the duckling on the sauce. Garnish with the blanched orange zest and orange segments.

2 lb 12 o z/1 .2 5 kg Chestnut Stuffing (page 486)

1 . Season the cavity of the turkey with salt and pepper. Place the quartered onions and parsley stems inside the cavity.

2 . Rub the skin of the turkey with the butter and truss with twine.

3 . Place the turkey, breast side up, on a rack in a roast­

grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes

5 . Add the wine, vinegar, and blood orange juice. Mix

ing pan.

4 . Roast at 350°F/i77°C for 3 hours, basting from time to time.

5 . Scatter the mirepoix around the turkey and continue to roast until the thigh meat registers an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 30 to 40 minutes longer. Remove the turkey from the roasting pan and allow it to rest. 6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un­ til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all but 2 tbsp/30 mL of the fat.

7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 4 to 5 minutes, until golden. Whisk in the stock until completely smooth. 8 . Simmer the gravy until it reaches the proper consis­ tency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and ad­ just seasoning with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Carve the turkey in portions and serve it with the pan gravy and chestnut stuffing.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING

485

4 o z/1 1 3 g bacon fat or butter

Salmon Fillet with Smoked Salmon and Florseradish Crust

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cubed day-old bread

Makes 10 servings

Chestnut Stuffing Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot !e g g 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 1 tsp /1 g chopped sage 8 o z/2 2 7 g shelled, peeled, roasted chestnuts, chopped 1 ts p /3 g salt V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper

Saute the onions in the bacon fat until tender. Combine the bread, stock, and egg and add to the

3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg salmon fillet, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lime juice 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 2 ts p /6 g minced shallot 2 ts p /4 g crushed black peppercorns CRUMB MIXTURE I V 2 ts p /4.50 g minced shallot

V ats p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic 3 o z /8 5 g butter

onion. Add the parsley, sage, chestnuts, salt, and

5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs

pepper. Mix well.

5 o z/1 4 2 g minced smoked salmon

Place the stuffing in a buttered hotel pan and cover

1 o z/2 8 g prepared horseradish

with parchment paper. Bake at 350°F/i77°C for 45

20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Beurre Blanc (page 298)

minutes. Serve immediately.

1 . Rub the salmon fillets with the lime juice, garlic, shallots, and peppercorns. Refrigerate while making the crumb mixture.

2 . To make the crumb mixture, saute the shallots and garlic in the butter until aromatic, about 1 minute.

3 . Combine the sauteed shallots and garlic, bread crumbs, smoked salmon, and horseradish in a food processor and process to a fine consistency.

4 . Portion about 1 oz/28 g of the crumb mixture onto each fillet.

5 . Bake the salmon in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it is opaque pink on the outside and just beginning to flake, 6 to 7 minutes. 6 . Serve the salmon on heated plates with the beurre blanc.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

sauteing,

The cooking techniques presented in this chapter rely on a fat or oil as the cooking medium. As the amount of fat varies from a thin film to enough to completely submerge foods, different effects are achieved.

S

auteing

C

ertain m e n u

is a t e c h n i q u e t h a t c o o k s items listed a s s e a r e d

ess e n t ia lly s a u t e e d

. (Th

a

traditio nal

.) S

(f

o n d

)

s a u t e

l e f t in t h e p a n

,a

food

/

pan

rapidly

-s

e a r e d

in a l i t t l e

,c

h a r r e d

/

fat o ver

pan

-c

r elatively

h a r r e d

,or

pan

high

-bro

heat

.

iled are

o s e t e r m s h a v e c o m e to s u g g e s t t h a t e v e n l e s s o i l is u s e d t h a n f o r

a u t eed

dishes

n d a r e co o ked

t y p ic a lly

include

in a n a l a m i n u t e o r

a

sa u c e

"j u

m a d e

s t in t i m e

"

w ith

the

fa sh io n

drippings

.

sauteing Searing may be a f ir s t ste p f o r some roasted, braised, or stew ed foo ds; the y are cooked q u ickly in a sm all a m ount o f o il over d ire c t heat. The d iffe re n c e betw een searing and s a u te ­ ing is n o t how the tech niq ue is pe rfo rm e d , b u t th a t tho se fo o d s are n o t cooked co m p le te ly as a resu lt. Searing is used w ith tho se cooking m ethods as an e ffe c tiv e way to develop fla v o r and co lo r in con ju nction w ith longer, slo w er cooking. S tir-fry in g , associated w ith Asian cooking and succe ssfully adapted by innovative W estern chefs, shares many s im ila ritie s w ith sauteing. Foods are c u sto m a rily cut in to sm all pieces— usually s trip s, dice, or shre ds— and cooked rap id ly in a little oil. They are added to th e pan in sequence; th o se re q u irin g th e lo ng est cooking tim e s are added fir s t, tho se th a t cook q u ickly only a t the la st m om ent. The sauce fo r a s tir-fry , like th a t o f a saute, is made or fin is h e d in the pan to cap ture th e dish's e n tire flavo r. Typically, a th in -w a lle d w ok is used fo r a s tir - fr y w h ile a saute pan is used in th e sauteing m ethod. Choose cuts fo r sautes o f beef, veal, lamb, pork, and large game animals fro m the rib or loin, and some p o rtio n s o f the leg. These cuts are the m ost tender. P ou ltry and game bird breasts are o fte n p re fe rre d fo r sauteing. Firm or m oderately te x tu re d fis h are easier to sau­ te than very delicate fish . S hellfish, in and out o f the shell, also saute well. S elect the cooking fa t according to the fla v o r you w ant to create, fo o d cost, a va ila bility, and smoke point. The base f o r a pan sauce fo r a saute may va ry to s u it the fla v o r o f the main item . Brown sauces such as dem i-glace or ju s lie, veloutes, glace (reduced stocks), veg etab le coulis, or to m a to sauce may be used. C onsult sp e c ific recipes. A saute pan (also called a sauteuse) has sho rt, sloped sides and is w id e r than it is ta ll to encourage rapid evaporation. It is made o f a m e ta l th a t responds qu ickly to rapid heat changes. W oks are used to prepare s tir frie s . Pan-seared and p a n -b roiled ite m s are o fte n p repared in heavy-gauge pans th a t re ta in heat, such as ca st-iro n sk ille ts . Have ton gs o r spatulas available to tu rn fo o d s and rem ove the m fro m the pan, holding pans to reserve fo o d s w h ile a sauce is prepared or finishe d, and all a p p ro p ria te service ite m s (heated plates, garnishes, and accom panim ents).

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

basic formula Sauteing

Small amount of cooking fat or oil

(1 entree portion)

2 tbsp/30 mL liquid, for deglazing the pan

Salt and pepper, plus other 1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170 to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood (adjust portion size to account for bones, skin, or shells)

seasoning as required

2 fl oz/60 mL prepared sauce base, as appropriate

Aromatics and/or garnishes, for the pan sauce

Finishing ingredients, as appropriate

method at-a-glance Sauteing Saute the item on both sides in a hot pan and hot oil until properly browned. 2. Remove the main item

and finish it in an oven, if necessary. 3. Deglaze the pan. 4 . Add the liquid fo r the

sauce. Reduce the sauce. Add the finishing ingredients (except butter), if appropriate. Adjust seasoning to taste. Return the main item to the pan to reheat it, if necessary.

S tir-fry in g Heat the oil in a wok or large saute pan. Add the main item.

To develop additional flavor, season the item with

S tir-fry , keeping the food in constant motion.

additional ingredients prior to

Add additional ingredients, including aromatics, in the proper sequence (longestcooking firs t, shortestcooking last). Add the liquid fo r the sauce; add the thickener. 6. Serve the food immediately.

sauteing: M A R IN A D E S / SPIC E RUBS / D RIED SPIC ES

Add additional i n g r e d i e n t s depending on the desired result, after sauteing can further develop the flavor of the item: W HOLE B U TTE R / SAUCES / GLAZES

For a healthier option:

use

healthier fats such as olive oil to cook the main item.

Monte au beurre, if desired.

Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING

1. season the food w ith sa lt and pepper, as w ell as spice blends or rubs i f a p pro pria te , ju s t b e fore cooking. Seasoning b e fo re cooking is more e ffe c tiv e than adding s a lt and pepper a t the end. D usting is op tion al and should be done ju s t b e fo re adding th e ite m to the pan. Flour w ill help to absorb excess m oistu re and prevent the item fro m stic k in g to the pan, and it w ill produce a good surface color fo r lig h t or w h ite m eats, p o u ltry, and fish. If done, be sure to coat th e ite m evenly and shake o f f any excess. S e le ct a pan o f th e a p p ro p ria te size; it should be large enough so th a t all pieces o f th e main ite m w ill ju s t cover th e b o tto m o f th e pan w ith o u t overlapping. H eat th e pan b e fo re adding the fa t; th is is re fe rre d to as co n d itio n in g th e pan. Add enough f a t to lig h tly film the pan. The m ore n a tural m a rb lin g o r f a t pre sen t in the foo d, the less fa t you w ill need in th e pan. W ell-seasoned or no n stick pans may n o t req uire any fa t beyond th a t which is already p re se n t in the fo o d . Bring the pan and th e cook­ ing fa t to th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re b e fo re adding th e food. To saute red m eats a n d /o r ve ry th in m eat pieces, heat the cooking f a t u n til th e surface rip p le s and looks hazy. Less intense heat is req uire d fo r w h ite m eats, fish , and she llfish

m eth o d in d etail

as w ell as th ic k e r cuts. Im m e d ia te ly add th e fo o d to th e pan. Place the food's p re s e n ta tio n side down o n to th e heated pan f ir s t fo r th e b e s t-lo o k in g s auteed foo ds. Cook on th e p re se n ta ­ tio n side u n til brow ned or golden. L e t th e fo o d cook u n d istu rb e d f o r several seconds up to a m in ute or tw o to develop th e p ro p e r fla v o r and co lo r in th e fin is h e d saute. The fo o d may s tic k to th e pan a t f ir s t, b u t it w ill release its e lf by the tim e it is ready to be turned. Turn sauteed fo o d s only once to develop good fla v o r and color. Each tim e th e m eat is turne d, the te m p e ra tu re o f th e m ea t and pan drops. Sauteed fo o d s are also usually tu rn e d only once so th a t th e fo n d can develop in th e pan, although th e re are exceptions. Sauteed shrim p, m ea t cut in to emince, o r v eg etab le s, f o r exam ple, may be re p e a t­ edly to sse d o rtu rn e d . A d ju s t th e heat under th e saute pan if necessary to co m p le te coo kin g on th e s to ve to p . In som e cases, sau­ te e d fo o d may be fin is h e d in th e oven, e ith e r in th e saute pan or in a baking dish, sizzle r p la tte r, o r sheet pan. P rop er doneness depends upon th e fo o d its e lf, safe fo o d handling, and cu sto m e r p re fe ren ce. Be sure to allow fo r som e ca rryo ve r coo kin g so th a t fo o d s are not ove r­ done by th e tim e you are ready to p u t the m on a plate. For m ore in fo rm a tio n , review G eneral G uidelines fo r D e te r­ m ining Doneness (see page 366). Remove the fo o d fro m th e pan and to a holding pan in a w arm area w hile p re p a r­ ing a sauce d ire c tly in th e saute pan.

490

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

such as s to c k or w ine to

release th e brow ned drip p in g s, o r fon d, and to give the sauce a deep and cu sto m ize d fla vo r. To make a sauce in c o rp o ra tin g th e fo n d in th e saute pan, f ir s t rem ove any

sauteing

2. add a liquid

excess fa t. Add a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts or garnish item s th a t need to be cooked. Then deglaze th e pan, releasing th e reduced dripp ing s. W ine, sto ck, o r b ro th are com ­ m only used f o r th is step.

3. reduce wine or stock u n til nearly dry (au sec). The sauce base (such as a se p a ra te ly pre pa red sauce, ju s lie, reduced s to ck, o r ve g e ta b le puree o r coulis) should be added to th e pan and b ro u g h t to a simm er. Cream, if called fo r, should be added along w ith th e sauce base so th a t it can reduce p ro p e rly along w ith th e base. Some sauces may need to be th icke n e d b e fo re th e y are served; i f so, add a sm all am o un t o f a pure starch s lu rry u n til th e c o rre c t co n siste n cy is reached.

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G

491

4. finish and garnish a pan sauce in one o f several ways. It may be stra in e d th ro u g h a fine -m esh s tra in e r f o r a ve ry sm oo th te x tu re b e fo re adding any fin is h in g or ga rnishin g in g re d ie n ts. S im m er fin is h in g and g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts in th e sauce long enough fo r them to be p ro p e rly heated. A d ju s t seasoning w ith sa lt, pepper, fre s h herbs, ju ices, essences, purees, o r s im ila r item s. A fte r a fin a l check to be sure th e seasoning is co rre ct, chefs o fte n o p t to re tu rn th e main ite m (a chicken bre ast o r veal scallop, f o r exam ple) to th e fin is h e d sauce b rie fly to co a t and g e n tly re h e a t it. If desired, a sm all am ount o f w h ole b u tte r may be added ju s t b e fo re serving (m o n te r au beurre) to add b o th fla v o r and body. The sauce may be spooned in a pool on th e p la te and th e fo o d se t on top, o r th e sauce m ay be spooned over th e fo o d (nappe) or spooned around th e fo o d (cordon). Be sure to w ipe away any d rip s on th e p la te w ith a clean clo th w ru ng o u t in hot w a te r b e fo re th e p la te is sen t to th e dinin g room . The ob je ct o f sauteing is to produce a fla v o rfu l e x te rio r th ro u g h p ro p e r brow ning, w hich serves to in te n s ify the fo o d 's fla vo r. W eak fla v o r and co lo r in d ica te th a t th e fo o d was sauteed a t to o low a te m p e ra tu re or th a t th e pan was to o crow ded. "Good co lo r" depends on th e ty p e o f fo o d . When sauteed w ell, red m eats and game should have a deep brow n e xte rio r. W h ite m eats (veal, pork, and p o u ltry ) should have a golden or am ber e xte rio r. Lean w h ite fis h should be pale go ld when sauteed as skinless fille ts , w hile firm fis h steaks, like tuna, should ta ke on a d a rker color. O nly n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s should be sauteed, and a f­ te r sau tein g th e y should rem ain te n d e r and m oist. Exces­ sive dryness is a sign th a t th e fo o d was overcooked, th a t it w as cooked to o fa r in advance and held to o long, or th a t it w as sauteed a t a te m p e ra tu re higher than necessary.

492

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Pa a

n

-fried

dish

of

fo o ds

h ave

intriguing

is p a i r e d w i t h

the

a

richly t e x t u r e d

c o n tr a sts

dish

,

cru st

in t e x t u r e

the e ffec t

can

and

ran g e

and

a

moist

fla v o r

fro m

. W

h o m e

-s

fl a v o r f u l

hen t y l e

a

interio r

c a r e f u ll y to h a u t e

,

producing

selec t ed

cuisine

. Pa

n

sau ce

-fried

F O O D IS A L M O S T A L W A Y S C O A T E D — ' D R E D G E D IN F L O U R , C O A T E D W I T H B A T T E R , O R B R E A D E D . F O O D IS F R I E D IN E N O U G H O I L TO C O M E H A L F W A Y TO T W O ' T H I R D S U P I TS S I D E , A N D IS O F T E N C O O K E D O V E R

i-i *< !

i—>
e 1081), Blueberry M u ffin s (page 1078), and Banana-Nut Bread (page 1079)

Makes4loaves

Pound Cake Makes4cakes

2 lb /9 0 7 g all-purpose flour

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter

2 ts p /6 g baking powder

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sugar

3Aoz/21 g baking soda

1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest

1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

l'/2 t s p /5 g s a lt

2 ts p /4 g ground cinnamon

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour

13 o z/3 6 9 g vegetable oil

5 o z/1 4 2 g cornstarch

2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg sugar

3Ao z/21 g baking powder

2 lb /9 0 7 g pumpkin puree

2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs

8 eggs 13 o z/3 69 g water 7 o z /1 9 8 g chopped toasted pecans

1. Coatfour2-lb/go7-gloafpansw ithalightfilmoffat

oruseappropriatepanliners. 2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,bakingsoda, salt,andcinnamon. 3. Com binetheoil, sugar,pumpkinpuree,eggs,and waterinanelectricmixer. Usingthepaddle,mixon lowspeeduntilfullyblended. 4 .A ddthesifteddryingredientsandblendjustuntil incorporated,scrapingthesidesofthebowlasnec­ essary.Blendinthenuts. 5. Scalel lb14oz/851gofbatterintoeachpan.Gently tapthefilledpanstoreleaseanyairbubbles. 6. Bakeina350°F/i77°Covenuntilaskewerinserted nearthecenterofeachloafcomesoutcleanandthe centersspringbackwhengentlypressed,1to1V2 hours. 7. Cooltheloavesinthepansforafewm inutes. Removefromthepansandcoolcompletelyonwire racksbeforeslicingandservingorwrappingfor storage.

1. Greasefour2-lb/907-gloafpansandlinew ithparch­

mentpaper. 2 . Creamthebutter, sugar,lem onzest,andsaltinan electricmixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle, scrapingdownthebowlasneeded,untilthemixture issmoothandlightincolor. 3. Sifttogethertheflour,cornstarch,andbakingpow der. 4.M ixingonlowspeed,addtheeggsalternatelywith thesifteddryingredientsinthreestages. 5. Scale1lb10oz/737gofbatterintoeachprepared pan. 6. Bakeina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilaskewerinserted nearthecenterofthecakecomesoutclean,about 45minutes. 7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm inutes,then unmoldandtransferthemtowireracksandcool completely.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS

pastry dough and batter recipes

Pumpkin Bread

1081

Devil's Food Cake

Makes6cakes(8in/20cmeach)

Makes5tubecakes(8in/20cmeach)

B lb 13 oz/1.73 kg sugar

2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 k g s u g a r

2 lb 5 o z/1.05 kg cake flour

V2o z/1 4 g cream of tartar

VA o z/3 5 g baking soda

15'/2 o z/4 3 9 g cake flour

2'A ts p /7.50 g baking powder

lV 2 ts p /5 g s a lt

12 eggs

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg egg whites

1 lb 9 o z/7 09 g butter, melted and kept warm

1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract

3 lb 2 oz/1.42 kg warm water 2 tb sp /3 0 mL vanilla extract 15 o z/4 2 5 g cocoa powder, sifted

1. Coatsix8-in/20-cmpansw ithalightfilmoffatand

linethemwithparchmentcircles. 2 . Siftthesugar,flour,bakingsoda,andbakingpow der intothebowlofanelectricmixer. 3. Blendtheeggsinaseparatebow l.Mixthemintothe dryingredientsonmediumspeedwiththepaddle inthreeadditions.Mixuntilfullyincorporatedafter eachadditionandscrapedownthebowlasneeded. 4 .A ddthebutterandmixuntilevenlyblended.Add thewaterandvanillaandmix,scrapingdownthe bowlperiodically,untilasmoothbatterforms.Add thecocoapowderandmixuntilevenlyblended. 5. Scale2lb3oz/992gofbatterintoeachprepared pan. 6. Bakeat35O0F/i77°Cuntilaskewerinsertednearthe centerofacakecomesoutclean,about45minutes. 7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm inutes,then unmoldandtransfertowirerackstocoolcompletely.

1082

Angel Food Cake

B A K IN G A N D PAST RY

1. Sprinkletheinsidesoffive8-in/20-cmtubepans

lightlywithwater. 2.. Com bine1lb4oz/567gofthesugarwiththecream oftartar. Sifttheremaining1lb4oz/567gsugar withtheflourandsalt. 3. Inthebow lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites andvanillatosoftpeaksonmediumspeedwiththe wirewhip. 4 . Graduallyaddthesugar-creamoftartarm ixtureto theeggwhites,whippingonmediumspeeduntil mediumpeaksform. 5. Gentlyfoldthesiftedsugar-flourm ixtureintothe eggwhitesjustuntilincorporated. 6. Scale15oz/425gofbatterintoeachpreparedtube pan. 7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilacakespringsbackw hen lightlytouched,about35minutes. 8. Inverteachtubepanontoafunnelorlong-necked bottleonawireracktocool.Alternatively,foreach cake, invertasmallramekinontopofawirerack andpropthecakepanupsidedownandatanangle ontheramekin.Allowthecakestocoolcompletely upsidedown. 9 . Carefullyrunapaletteknifearoundthesidesofeach panandaroundthecentertubetoreleasethecake. Shakethepangentlytoinvertthecakeontothewire rack.

Makes4cakes(8in/20cmeach)

Chocolate XS Cake Makes6cakes(8in/20cmeach)

6 o z/1 70 g vegetable oil

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g water

1 tb sp /15 mL vanilla extract

2 lb 1 1'/2 o z/1 .2 3 kg sugar

18 eggs

1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g semisweet chocolate, chopped

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g sugar

2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g cake flour, sifted

2 lb 11 o z/1.22 kg butter, melted

1. Coatfour8-in/20-cmpansw ithalightfilmoffat

andlinethemwithparchmentcircles. 2 . Blendtheoilw iththevanilla. 3. Com binetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelec­ tricmixer. Setthebowloverapanofbarelysimmer­ ingwaterandwhiskconstantlyuntilthemixture reachesno°F/43°C. 4 . Putthebow lonthemixerandwhiponhighspeed withthewirewhipuntilthefoamreachesmaxi­ mumvolumeandisnolongerincreasinginvolume. Stabilizethefoambywhippingfor15minuteson mediumspeed. 5. Gentlyfoldintheflour.Tem perintheoilmixture. 6. Scale1lb/454gofbatterintoeachpreparedcake pan.Thepanshouldbetwo-thirdsfull. 7. Bakeat35O 0F/i77°Cuntilthetopsofthecakes springbackwhenlightlytouched,about30minutes. 8. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewminutes, thenunmoldandtransfertowirerackstocool completely. C hocolate Sponge Cake: Replace 4 o z /1 13 g o f the flou r w ith Dutch-process cocoa powder. S ift the cocoa

3 lb 10 o z/1 .64 kg eggs 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla extract

1. Brushtheinsidesofsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw ith

softenedbutterandlinewithparchmentcircles. 2 . Com binethewaterand1lb13oz/822gofthesugar inaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboil. Removefromtheheat, addbothchocolates,andstir untilthechocolatesaremelted.Stirinthebutter. Letthemixturecooltoroomtemperature. 3.W hiptheeggs,theremaining14V2oz/411gsugar, andthevanillainanelectricmixeronhighspeed withthewirewhip,untillightandfluffy,about4V2 minutes. 4 . Gentlyfoldthechocolatem ixtureintotheegg mixture. 5. Scale2lb5oz/1.05kgofbatterintoeachprepared pan. 6. Bakeinawaterbathat350°F/i77°Cuntilthetopsof thecakesfeelfirm,about1hour. 7. Coolcom pletelyonwireracks,thenwrapinplastic wrapandrefrigerateovernightinthepansbefore unmolding.

pastry dough and batter recipes

Vanilla Sponge Cake

together w ith the flour.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS

1083

Cheesecake Makes6cheesecakes(8in/20cmeach) 1 lb 14 o z/851 g Graham Cracker Crust (recipe follows) 7 lb 8 oz/3.40 kg cream cheese

Graham Cracker Crust

Makes1lb4oz/567g 14 o z/3 9 7 g graham cracker crumbs

2 A oz/71 g light brown sugar 3 V2 o z/9 9

g butter, melted

2 lb 4 o z /1 .0 2 k g s u g a r

'/2 o z/1 4 g salt 16 eggs 5 egg yolks

Processthecrumbs, sugar,andbutterinafoodpro­ cessorjustuntilcrumbly,about5minutes. Thecrust isreadytobepressedintopreparedpansandbaked.

15 o z/4 2 5 g heavy cream 3 tb s p /4 5 mL vanilla extract

1 . Coatsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw ithalightfilmoffat

andlinethemwithparchmentcircles. 2 . Press5oz/142gofthecrustm ixtureevenlyintothe bottomofeachpan. 3. Com binethecreamcheese, sugar,andsaltandmix inanelectricmixeronmediumspeedwiththe paddle,occasionallyscrapingdownthebowl,until themixtureiscompletelysmooth,about3minutes. 4 .W hisktogethertheeggsandeggyolks.Addtothe creamcheesemixtureinfouradditions,mixinguntil fullyincorporatedaftereachadditionandscraping downthebowlasneeded. 5.A ddthecreamandvanillaandmixuntiltheyare fullyincorporated. 6. Scale2lb8oz/1.13kgofbatterintoeachprepared pan.Gentlytapthepanstoreleaseanyairbubbles. 7. Bakeinahotw aterbathat325°F/i63°Cuntilthe centersofthecakesareset, about1hour15minutes. 8. Coolthecakescompletelyinthepansonwireracks. W rapthecakes,inthepans,inplasticwrapandre­ frigerateovernighttofullyset. 9 .Tounm old,applythegentleheatofalowopen flametothebottomandsidesofeachcakepan.Run aknifearoundthesideofthepan.Placeaplastic wrap-coveredcakecircleontopofthecake,invert, andtapthebottomofthepantoreleasethecake,if necessary.Removethepan,peeloffthepaperfrom thebottomofthecake,andturnitontoacakecircle orservingplate.

Pate a Choux Makes6lb/2.72kg 1 lb /4 5 4 g milk 1 lb /4 5 4 g water 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter l'/2 t s p /7 .5 0 g sugar V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt 1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour 2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs

1. Bringthem ilk,water,butter,sugar,andsalttoaboil

overmediumheat, stirringconstantly. 2 .Rem ovefromtheheat,addtheflourallatonce,and stirvigorouslytocombine.Returnthepantomedium heatandcook,stirringconstantly,untilthemixture pullsawayfromthesidesofthepan,about3minutes. 3. Transferthem ixturetothebowlofanelectricmixer andbeatbrieflyonmediumspeedwiththepaddle. Addtheeggstwoatatime,beatinguntilsmoothaf­ tereachaddition. 4 . Thepateachouxisreadytobepipedandbaked(see page1064.) NOTE: Por a drier and deeper blond pate a choux, substitute an equal amount o f water fo r the milk.

G ougeres (G ruyere Cheese P uffs): A fte r adding all the eggs to the pate a choux, add lA tsp/0.50 g cayenne and 1 lb /4 54 g grated Gruyere to the dough. Continue mixing fo r 1 minute. Transfer the dough to a pastry bag with a plain tip and pipe into domes 3/t in / 2 cm in diameter. Bake fo r about 35 minutes in a 350°F/177°C oven. Serve warm or store in a irtig h t containers.

1084

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

Makes1dozeneclairs

P ro fite ro le s Makes1dozenprofiteroles

1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (recipe precedes)

1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (page 1084)

Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed

Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed

1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)

2 o z/5 7 g sliced almonds

1 lb /4 5 4 g fondant (see page 1120)

1 o z/2 8 g sugar

4 o z /1 13 g dark chocolate, melted

12 o z/3 4 0 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)

Light corn syrup, as needed

9 o z/2 5 5 g Chantilly Cream (page 1023)

1. Pipethepateachouxintocylinders,4in/10cmlong,

onparchment-linedsheetpans,usingano.8plain pipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash. 2 . Bakeat36o°F/i82°Cuntilthecracksform edinthe pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes. 3. Coolthepastriestoroomtem peratureonthepans. 4 . Pierceeachendoftheeclairsw ithaskewerorsimi­ larinstrument. 5. Filltheeclairsw iththepastrycreamfromeachend, usingano.1plainpipingtip. 6. W armthefondantoverahotwaterbath,addthe chocolate, andthintotheproperviscositywiththe cornsyrup. 7.Topthefilledeclairsw iththechocolatefondantei­ therbydippingthetopsorbyenrobingthemusing thebackofaspoon. C hocolate Eclairs: S ub stitute Chocolate Pastry Cream (page 1099) fo r the pastry cream.

Confectioners’ sugar, as needed

1. Pipethepateachouxintobulbs, 1V2in/4cmindi­

ameter,ontoparchment-linedsheetpansusingano. 5plainpipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash. 2 . Stickseveralalm ondslicesintothetopofeachbulb sothattheyprotrudefromthetop.Sprinkleeach bulblightlywithsugar. 3. Bakeat36o°F/i82°Cuntilthecracksform edinthe pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes. 4 . Coolthepastriestoroomtem peratureonthepan. 5. Slicethetopoffeachofthebakedpastries. Pipethe pastrycreamintothebasesusingano.5plainpastry tip,beingcarefulnottooverfillthem. 6. PipeadoublerosetteofChantillycreamontopof thepastrycreamusingano.5startip. 7 PlacethetopsofthepastriesontheC hantillycream, andlightlydustwithconfectioners’sugar.

pastry dough and batter recipes

Eclairs

.

Ice C re a m -F ille d P ro fite ro le s : S ubstitute Vanilla IceCream (page 1157) fo r the pastry cream. Omit the almonds, sugar, Chantilly cream, and confectioners'sugar. Slice the top o ff each pro fite role. Scoop the ice cream using a no. 50 scoop, and place it in the bases. Replace the tops on the pastries and serve w ith Chocolate Sauce (page 1129), if desired.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS

1085

1-2-3 Cookie Dough Makes6lb/2.72kg

Makes32biscotti

2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, soft

10 o z/2 8 4 g bread flour

1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar

l t s p / 6 g baking soda

1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract

3 eggs

8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs

6 '/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar

3 lb /1 .36 kg cake flour, sifted

l ' / t ts p /4 g salt

1 . Creamthebutter, sugar,andvanillainanelectric

mixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scraping downthebowlperiodically,untilsmoothandlight incolor.Addtheeggsgradually,afewatatime, scrapingdownthebowlandblendinguntilsmooth aftereachaddition.Addtheflourallatonceandmix onlowspeedjustuntilblended. 2 . Scalethedoughasdesired.W raptightlyandrefriger­ ateforatleast1hourbeforerolling.(Thedoughcan berefrigeratedorfrozen.)

1086

AlmonchAnise Biscotti

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

1 ts p /5 mL anise extract 7 o z /1 9 8 g whole almonds 2 tb s p /1 2 g anise seeds

1 . Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper. 2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingsoda. 3.W hiptheeggs,sugar,salt,andextractinanelectric

mixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilthick andlightincolor,about5minutes. Mixinthedry ingredientsonlowspeedjustuntilincorporated. 4 .A ddthealmondsandaniseseedsbyhandandblend untilevenlycombined. 5. Formthedoughintoalog4by16in/10by41cmand placeitonthepreparedsheetpan. 6. Bakeat300°F/i49°Cuntillightgoldenbrownand firm,about1hour. Lowertheoventemperatureto 275°F/i35°C.Removethepanfromtheovenand coolfor10minutes. 7. Usingaserratedknife, cutthelogcrossw iseinto slicesV2in/icmthick.Laythemflatonthesheet panandbake,turningthebiscottioncehalfway through,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp,20to25 minutestotal. 8. Transferthebiscottitowireracksandcool completely.

Pecan Diamonds Makes100pieces(1in/3cmeach) 2 lb /9 0 7 g 1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086) PECAN FILLING 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, cubed 1 lb /4 5 4 g light brown sugar 4 o z/1 1 3 g sugar 12 o z/3 4 0 g honey 4 o z/1 1 3 g heavy cream 2 lb /9 0 7 g pecans, coarsely chopped

1 . Rolloutthedoughtoarectangle14by18in/36by46 cmandVsin/3mmthick.Layitgentlyinahalfsheet

pansothatitcompletelylinesthebottomandsides. Dockthedoughwithapastrydockerorthetinesofa fork. 2 . Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntillightgoldenbrow n,about 10minutes. 3.Tom akethefilling,cookthebutter,sugars,honey, andcreaminaheavy-bottomedsaucepanover medium-highheat,stirringconstantly,untilthe mixturereaches240°F/n6°C.Addthenutsandstir untilfullyincorporated.Immediatelypourintothe prebakedcrustandspreadintoanevenlayer. 4 . Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthefillingbubblesor foamsevenlyacrossthesurfaceandthecrustis goldenbrown,25to30minutes. Coolcompletelyin thepan. 5. Usingam etalspatula,releasethesheetfromthe sidesofthepanandinverttheslabontothebackof ahalfsheetpan.Transferittoacuttingboard,care­ fullyflippingitoversoitisrightsideup.Trimoffthe edges.Cutintoi-in/3-cmdiamonds.

Chocolate Chunk Cookies Makes12dozencookies 4 lb 5 oz/1.96 kg all-purpose flour r /2 o z/4 3 g salt 1 o z/2 8 g baking soda 2 lb 14 o z/1.30 kg butter, soft 1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g sugar 1 lb 6 o z/6 2 4 g light brown sugar 9 eggs 2 tbsp plus l '/2 ts p /3 8 mL vanilla extract 4 lb 5 o z/1 .9 6 kg semisweet chocolate chunks

1 . Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper. 2.. Sifttogethertheflour,salt,andbakingsoda. 3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm ixeron

mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand lightincolor, about5minutes. 4 . Com binetheeggsandvanilla.Addtothebuttersugarmixtureinthreeadditions, mixinguntilfully incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown thebowlasneeded.Mixinthesifteddryingredients andthechocolatechunksonlowspeedjustuntil incorporated. 5. ScalethedoughintoiVi-oz/43-gportionsandplace themonthepreparedpans.Alternatively,scalethe doughinto2-lb/907-gportions, shapeintologs16 in/41cmlong,wraptightlyinparchmentpaper,and refrigerateuntilfirmenoughtoslice. Sliceeachlog into16piecesandarrangeonthepreparedsheet pansinevenrows. 6. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilgoldenbrownaroundthe edges, 12to14minutes. 7. Coolcom pletelyonthepans.

C h e rry-C h o co la te Chunk Cookies: Add 2 lb/907 g chopped dried cherries along w ith the chocolate.

1088

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

Makes

1 2 ‘A

IO V 2

dozen cookies

o z/2 9 8 g cake flour

Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies M akes

12

dozen cookies

1 o z/2 8 g baking powder

Vi o z/1 4 g salt 4 o z /1 13 g brewed espresso 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped 4 lb/1.81 kg bittersweet chocolate, chopped IO V 2

o z/2 9 8 g butter, soft

2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg all-purpose flour 1 o z/2 8 g baking soda

V2 o z/1 4 g ground cinnamon V2 o z/1 4 g salt 3 lb /1.36 kg butter, soft 1 lb 3 o z /5 3 9 g s u g a r 3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg light brown sugar

22 eggs 4 lb/1.81 kg sugar

10 eggs 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla extract

1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g walnuts, chopped 3 lb 3 o z/1 .45 kg rolled oats 4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg semisweet chocolate chips 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g raisins

1. Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper. 2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,andsalt. 3. Blendtheespressoandvanilla. 4 .M eltthechocolatestogetherwiththebutterovera

doubleboiler. Stirtoblend. 5. Beattheeggs,sugar,andcoffeem ixtureinanelec­ tricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntil lightandthick,6to8minutes. Blendinthechoco­ latemixtureonmediumspeed.Mixinthedryingre­ dientsonlowspeedjustuntilblended.Blendinthe walnutsandchocolatechipsjustuntilincorporated. 6. Scalethedoughinto2-oz/57-gportionsandarrange themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor­ tions, shapeintologs16in/41cmlong,wraptightly inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar­ rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. 7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthecookiesarecrackedon topbutstillappearslightlymoist, about12minutes. 8. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto wireracksandcoolcompletely.

1 . Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper. 2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingsoda,cinnam on,and

salt. 3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm ixeron mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand lightincolor, about10minutes. Blendtheeggsand vanillaandaddtothebutter-sugarmixtureinthree additions,mixingaftereachadditionuntilfullyin­ corporatedandscrapingdownthebowlasneeded. Mixinthesifteddryingredients,oats,andraisinson lowspeedjustuntilincorporated. 4 . Scalethedoughinto2-ozl^j-gportionsandarrange themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor­ tions, shapeintologsi6-in/4i-cmlong,wraptightly inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar­ rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. 5. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilthecookiesarelightgold­ enbrown,about12minutes. 6. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto wireracksandcoolcompletely.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS

pastry dough and batter recipes

Mudslide Cookies

1089

NutTuile Cookies

Makes25cookies

Makes1sheetpanor60brownies(2by3in/5by8cmeach)

2 o z/5 7 g blanched almonds

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped

B o z/8 5 g blanched hazelnuts

2 lb 4 oz/1.02 kg butter

6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar

1 lb 1 4 o z /8 5 1 g eggs

2'/2 o z/71 g all-purpose flour

4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 k g s u g a r

Pinch salt

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla

4 egg whites

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour, sifted

1. Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaperorsilicone

bakingmats. Havestencilsandanoffsetspatula nearby,aswellasshapingimplementssuchascups, dowels,orrollingpins,dependingonthedesired shapes. 2 . Com binethealmonds,hazelnuts, andsugarina foodprocessorandpulsetogrindtoafinepowder. Addtheflourandsaltandpulseseveraltimesto combine.Transfertoalargebowl. 3. W hiptheeggwhitesinanelectricmixeronhigh speedwiththewirewhipuntilmediumpeaksform. Usingarubberspatula,gentlyfoldtheeggwhites intothenutmixtureinthreeadditions. 4 . Usingtheoffsetspatulaanddesiredtem plate, spread thebatteronthepreparedsheetpans. 5. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilanevenlightbrow n,about 10minutes. 6. Removethetuilesfromtheovenandimmediately shapethem.Iftheybegintogettoofirm,putthem backintheovenforafewsecondstosoften,then formimmediately.

1090

Fudge Brownies

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g chopped pecans or walnuts

1. Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper. 2 .M eltthechocolateandbuttertogetheroverapan

ofsimmeringwater. Donotletthemixtureexceed ho°F/43°C.Removefromtheheatandcooltoroom temperature. 3. Com binetheeggs,sugar,andvanillaandwhipinan electricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipun­ tilthickandlightincolor. 4 .A ddthechocolateandbuttertotheeggmixtureus­ ingaliaison(seepage249). 5.Blendone-thirdoftheeggm ixtureintothechoco­ latemixturetolightenit,thenfoldintheremaining eggmixture. Gentlyfoldintheflour. 6. Foldin1lb/454gofthenuts. Pourontotheprepared sheetpanandsprinkletheremainingnutsontop. 7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cfor30m inutesoruntilfirmto thetouch. 8. Coolthebrowniesinthepanforafewminutes,then unmoldontoawirerack.Peeloffthepaperandcool completelybeforecutting.

custards, creams and mousses When baked, eggs, milk, and sugar result in a smooth and creamy baked custard. When stirred together over gentle heat, these same ingredient become custard sauce. Starches or gelatin can be included to pro d u cd i textures th a t range from thick but spoonable to a sliceable cream. ^ Folding meringue or whipped cream into the custard or cream produces a cold mousse, Bavarian, or diplomat cream. For a souffle, meringue is folded into a base and baked.

A

S IM P LE

BAKED

CUSTARD CALLS

FOR

B L E N D IN G

EGGS, A LIQ.UID

SUCH

AS

M IL K

OR CR EA M , AND

S U G A R A N D B A K IN G U N T I L SET. M A S C A R P O N E , C R E A M C H E E S E , OR A N O T H E R S O F T F R E S H C H E E S E M A Y BE S U B S T I T U T E D F O R P A R T O F T H E C R E A M T O Y I E L D A R I C H E R A N D F I R M E R R E S U L T , S U C H A S F O R A C H E E S E C A K E . T h e P R O P O R T I O N O F E G G S A L S O M A Y BE V A R I E D , A S M A Y T H E C H O I C E O F W H O L E E G G S , Y O L K S O N L Y , OR A C O M B I N A T I O N O F T H E T W O . U S I N G A L L W H O L E E G G S G I V E S M O R E S T R U C T U R E TO A C U S T A R D T H A T I S TO BE S E R V E D U N M O L D E D .

baked custards There are tw o basic m ethods fo r com bining th e in g re d ie n ts to make a baked custard: warm and cold. For the cold m ethod o f m ixing a custa rd base, th e in g re d ie n ts are sim p ly s tirre d to g e th e r, then poured in to m olds and baked. This m ethod is e ffe c tiv e f o r sm all batches. To m ix a custa rd base using th e w arm m ethod, heat th e m ilk o r cream and some o f the sugar, s tirrin g w ith a wooden spoon, u n til th e sugar is c o m p le te ly dissolved. Add the f la ­ vorings a t th is p o in t and allow the m to steep o f f th e heat and covered, if necessary, long enough fo r the m to im p a rt a rich, fu ll flavo r. Blend th e eggs and th e rem aining sugar to make a liaison and b ring th e m ilk o r cream to a boil. W hisking c o n sta n tly, slo w ly add about o n e -th ird o f th e h o t m ilk a fe w la d le fu ls a t a tim e to th e liaison, to te m p e r it. Once th e lia i­ son is tem pe red , you can add the re s t o f th e h o t m ilk m ore ra p id ly w ith o u t scram bling the egg m ixture . Ladle th e custa rd in to m olds (coa t the m w ith a lig h t film o f so fte n e d b u tte r if you in­ ten d to unm old th e custa rd ) and bake the m in a hot w a te r bath. The w a te r bath keeps the heat co n sta n t and gentle, re s u ltin g in a sm ooth te x tu re in the baked custard. To check the custa rd fo r doneness, shake th e m old gently: when th e rip ple s on th e surface move back and fo rth , ra th e r than in con cen tric rings, th e custa rd is p ro p e rly baked. C a refully rem ove th e m olds fro m th e w a te r bath and w ipe th e m olds dry. Place them on a cool sheet pan, allow them to cool, and then re frig e ra te them . For crem e caram el, an ove rnight re s tin g pe rio d (o p tim a lly 2 4 hours) is essential, n o t only to c o m p le te ly se t the custa rd so it can be unm olded, b u t also to allow th e caram el to liq u e fy in to a sauce.

HOT WATER BATH

Ahotwaterbath,orbain-marie,ensures gentleheatataconstanttemperature, al­ lowingforevenbakingorcooking.Using ahotwaterbathforbakingcustardsalso preventsboththeformationofacrustand crackingofthecustard’ssurface. Selectapanwithsidesatleastashigh asthesidesofthemolds.Setthemoldsin thepanastheyarefilled,leavingabout1 in/3cmaroundeachmoldsoitwillbesur­ roundedbyhotwater. Setthepansecurely ontheovendeckorrack.Addenoughvery 1092

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

hotorboilingwatertothepantocome toabouttwo-thirdsoftheheightofthe molds.Becarefulnottosplashorpourany waterintothecustards. Aftercustardsareproperlybakedand removedfromtheoven,theyshouldbe removedfromthehotwaterbath.This willstopthecookingprocessandallowthe custardstocool. Custardswillcontinueto cookifleftinthehotwaterbathafterthey areremovedfromtheoven,whichmay causethemtobecomeoverdone.

prepared

on

th e

s to v eto p

, such

as

v a n il l a

s a u c e

, must

be

s t ir r e d

c o n sta n tly

D U R I N G C O O K I N G U N T I L T H E S T A G E O F N A P P E ( c o a t i n g T H E B A C K O F A s p o o n ). C r e a m s A N D P U D D I N G S T H A T A R E T H I C K E N E D W I T H S T A R C H A N D C O O K E D O N T H E S T O V E T O P M U S T BE S T I R R E D C O N S T A N T L Y U N T I L T H E Y C O M E T O A F U L L B O I L , B O T H S O T H E S T A R C H IS H E A T E D S U F F I C I E N T L Y TO T H I C K E N T H E M IX T U R E

AND

TO

REMOVE

ANY

U N D E S IR A B LE

FLAVOR

AND

M O UTHFEEL THAT

UNCOOKED

custards

C ustards

STARCH

C O N T R IB U TE S .

stirred custards, creams, and puddings Some recipes fo r s tirre d custards, creams, and puddings may include w hole m ilk, w hile oth e rs call f o r heavy cream, lig h t cream, or a com b in ation o f cream and m ilk. Some recipes use only egg yolks; oth ers use w hole eggs or a blend o f w hole eggs and egg yolks. It is esp ecially im p o rta n t to have all th e necessary eq uipm en t assem bled b e fo re beginning, including a heavy-

m eth o d at-a-glan ce

b o tto m e d p o t o r a bain-m arie, a fin e -m e sh sieve or conical sieve, and con tain ers to hold the fin is h e d ite m during coo l­ ing and sto rin g . To cool th e custards, creams, o r puddings ra p id ly and safe ly, have an ice w a te r bath ready.

1. C a re fu lly scale or m easure all ing re d ie nts. 2.

H eat th e m ilk or m ilk /c re a m co m bination w ith h a lf o f the sugar to ju s t below a boil.

3.

W hisk to g e th e r the eggs w ith the rem ainder o f the sugar.

4.

Temper the eggs w ith the hot m ilk, s tirrin g co n s ta n tly and re tu rn th e te m p e re d eggs to th e pan.

5.

S tirrin g co n sta n tly, cook the sauce over low heat ju s t u n til it has reached th e p o in t o f nappe (185°F).

c h a p te r 34 » CU S TAR D S, C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S

1093

1. combine the milk

w ith h a lf o f the

sugar (and a van illa bean, i f using) and b ring it to a simmer. C om bine th e egg y olks or eggs w ith the rem aining sugar in a s ta in le s s -s te e l bowl. H e atin g th e m ilk o r cream w ith th e sugar dissolves the sugar fo r a sm oother, s ilk ie r fin is h e d te x tu re . If a vanilla bean is used to fla v o r the sauce, add th e seeds and the e m p ty pod to th e m ilk (or cream ) and sugar as it heats. (Vanilla e x tra c t may be used in ste ad o f van illa beans. Add th e e x tra c t ju s t b e fo re the sauce is strained.) H eat the m ilk ju s t to the b o ilin g po in t. Keep an eye on it as it heats since it can ea sily b o il over as it nears the b o ilin g point. B ea ting th e eggs and sugar to g e th e r pre ven ts the eggs fro m coo kin g when th e y are com bined w ith the hot m ilk. Blend th e in g re d ie n ts w ell w ith a w h isk f o r long enough to d issolve th e sugar in th e eggs.

method in detail 2. temper the hot milk

in to the egg

m ix tu re to produce a sm oo th sauce. Ladle the h o t m ilk in to th e egg m ix tu re a litt le a t a tim e, s tirrin g c o n sta n tly, u n til ab o u t o n e -th ird o f th e m ilk or cream m ix tu re has been blended in to th e eggs. Add th e te m p e re d egg m ix­ tu re to th e re s t o f th e h o t m ilk. Continue to cook the sauce over low he at u n til it begins to thicken, s tirrin g c o n s ta n tly to p re ve n t it fro m overcooking. Do not le t the sauce come to a boil, because th e egg yolks w ill coagulate w ell below th e b o ilin g po in t. The te m p e ra tu re o f th e sauce should n o t go above 180°F /82°C , o r it w ill begin to curdle. The sauce is cooked when it has thicke ne d enough to coa t the back o f a wooden spoon.

1094

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

vanilla sauce

3. the finished vanilla sauce should coa t th e back o f a w ooden spoon and hold a line drawn th ro u g h it. W hen it reaches th is stage, s tra in it im m e d i­ a te ly th ro u g h a fin e -m e sh sieve in to a container. Cool the sauce in an ice w a te r ba th i f it is to be held f o r la te r storag e or served cold, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly as it cools, and re frig e ra te it im m e d ia te ly. Place a piece o f p la s tic wrap on th e surface to p re ve n t a skin fro m fo rm in g . A good van illa sauce is th ic k and g lossy and coa ts th e back o f a wooden spoon. It shows no signs o f curdling. This sauce should have a sm ooth, luxurio us m o u th fe e l, w ith a w e ll-b alance d flavo r.

MAKING ICE CREAM FROM V A N ILLA SAUCE

Thistypeofbaseshouldbeallowedtomature intherefrigeratoratapproximately40°/4°Cfor severalhoursbeforefreezing.Thiswillresultina smoothericecream. Tochurntheicecream,runthechilledbasedin anicecreamfreezeronlytosoft-serveconsistency. Extractitfromthemachine,packintocontainers, andplaceinafreezerforseveralhourstoallowitto firmtoaservabletemperatureandconsistency. Alloftheingredientsaddflavortotheice cream,buteachonealsoplaysapartindetermin­ ingconsistencyandmouthfeel.Theeggsmakeit richandsmooth.Forbestresults,useamixtureof milkandcreamtoavoidhavingtoomuchbutterfat inthemix.Themilkandcreamallowforincor­ porationofairduringfreezing,givingthefinal productasmoothermouthfeelandlighterbody. However,toomuchincorporatedairwilldiminish theflavor,maketheicecreamtoosoft,andmake itmeltquickly.Sugarbothaddssweetnessand lowersthefreezingpointofthebase,keepingthe icecreamfromfreezingtoohard.

Thereareanumberofdifferentmethodsfor addingflavoringstoicecreams.Youmaysimply infusethesaucewithflavorwhileyouaremaking it. Pureescanbeblendedintothecustardafterit hascooled,orfoldedintostillsoft,just-churned icecreamforaswirledeffect.Meltedchocolate canbeaddedtothestillwarm,just-cookedice creambase,whilenutpastessuchaspeanutbut­ terandpralinepastecanbeaddedtothemilkand creamandcookedintothebasemixture. Somefruitjuicesorfrozenconcentratessuch aslemon,orange,orpassionfruithaveveryin­ tenseflavor.Addupto8floz/240mLofthese juicesorfrozenconcentratestothesameamount ofthebaseasyouwouldpuree,usingjustenough togivetheproperflavor.Itisnotnecessarytore­ ducethevolumeofliquidinthebase;addingthis amountofadditionalliquidtoai1A-qt/i.44-Lbatch willnotnoticeablyaffecttheicecream’stextureor volume.

ch a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S

1095

T h e n a m e f o r t h is d e l ic a t e d e s s e r t c o m e s f r o m t h e F r e n c h ; t h e w o r d t r a n s l a t e s l it e r a l l y as

"f r o t h y , f o a m y , or

l ig h t

." T o m a k e

a

m o u s s e

, an

a e r a t in g

in g r e d ie n t

suc h

as

w h ip p e d

C R E A M a n d / o r M E R I N G U E IS F O L D E D IN T O A BASE, S U C H A S A F R U I T P U R E E , V A N I L L A S A U C E , C R E A M , P U D D I N G , C U R D , S A B A Y O N , O R PA TE A B O M B E ( C O O K E D W H I P P E D EG G Y O L K S ) . T H E B A S E S H O U L D BE L I G H T A N D S M O O T H S O T H E A E R A T I N G I N G R E D I E N T C A N BE I N C O R P O R A T E D E A S I L Y .

mousse To make an egg-safe mousse, use pasteurized egg w h ites or a Swiss o r Italian meringue. S ta ­ bilizers such as g e la tin may be used in varying am ounts, depending on the desired result. If a mousse is stab ilize d w ith gelatin, it w ill begin to se t im m ediately, so prepare all m olds and serving containers be fore beginning preparation. W hatever th e fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t used, it should be at room te m p e ra tu re and liquid enough to fo ld to g e th e r w ith whipped cream a n d /o r egg w h ite s w ith o u t d e fla tin g those foam s. To prepare chocolate, chop it in to sm all pieces and m e lt it over sim m ering w a te r or in the m icrowave. Let it cool to room te m pe rature , at which p o in t it should s till be pourable. Eggs, bo th yolks and w hites, are called fo r in some mousse recipes. C onsult the recipe and prepare the eggs as d ire cte d . S eparate yolks and w h ite s care fu lly, keeping w h ite s fre e o f all traces o f yolk. W hites generally w hip to a g re a te r volum e i f th e y are a t room te m p e ra ­ ture. Use a very clean bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk to b e a t egg w hites. Cream should be ke p t very cold and w hipped ju s t to s o ft peaks. Keep w hipped cream v e ry cold i f it is prepared in ad­

m eth o d at-a-glan ce 1. C a re fu lly scale or measure all ing re d ie nts. 2. H eat th e egg yolks w ith some o f the sugar, w hisking u n til th e m ixtu re is th ic k and reaches the proper te m p e ra tu re .

vance. For th e b e st volum e in the w hipped cream, ch ill the bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk b e fo re w h ipp in g th e cream. Flave a sim m e ring w a te r bath ready to cook egg yolks and sugar to g e th e r. Use a rub be r spatula to fo ld the mousse to g e th e r. Have m olds arranged to f ill w ith mousse. It is im p o rta n t to fla v o r the base well. The base o f the mousse provides all o f the flavo r. Once the ae ra to rs are added, th e fla v o r o f th e base w ill becom e d ilu te d , so make sure th e base is ve ry fla v o rfu l to ensure the am ount o f f la ­ vo r you desire is carried to th e fin is h e d mousse. To m aintain its s tru c tu re du rin g and a fte r whipping, keep th e cream cold. W hip the cream only to s o ft peaks.

3- W hip or w hisk the egg w hite s

A fte r w hipping, th e cream w ill be fo ld e d in to the rem ain­

w ith the rem ainder o f the

ing in g re d ie n ts f o r the mousse. If it is w hipped beyond s o ft

sugar.

peaks, th is fo ld in g w ill overw hip the cream.

4 - G ently ligh ten th e yolk

Use a rubber spatula, or sim ilar to o l w ith a broad surface

m ixtu re w ith some o f the egg

fo r folding. This w ill help retain the volume in the aerators.

w hites.

Lightening the base w ith a p o rtion o f the ae rator before fo ld ­ ing quickly as w ell as ge ntly w ill also help to retain volume.

5 - C a re fu lly fo ld the rem aining egg w h ite s in to th e yolk m ixture.

To ensure the lig h te st mousse, it is also im perative th a t the containers or pastries th a t w ill hold the mousse are ready be fore you begin the preparation o f the mousse. As soon as all the ingredients are fu lly combined, pipe, spread, or pour the mousse in to the prepared containers.

1096

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

mousse

1. prepare the flavor ingredients f o r th e mousse and cool them , if necessary. Some mousse flavo rin gs are made fro m pureed fru it, sweetened as neces­ sary and strained to remove any fib e rs or seeds. Chocolate, one o f the m ost popular mousse fla vo rs, is prepared by chopping the chocolate. B u tte r is added to the chocolate and they are m elted to g e th e r over sim m ering water. Adding b u tte r to the chocolate makes it easier to m elt. Take care to avoid dropping any w a te r in to th e chocolate as it m elts. The fla v o r base should be s o ft enough to s tir easily w ith a wooden spoon, and ve ry sm ooth. Blend th e in g re ­ die n ts to g e th e r using a wooden spoon. L e t the m cool to room te m p e ra tu re b e fo re use. H eat the egg y olks and sugar to 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C f o r 15 seconds, w h iskin g co n sta n tly. C om bine the egg yolks and sugar in a saucepan over a h o t w a te r bath. W hip the m t o ­ g e th e r u n til th ic k and lig h t. The m ix tu re w ill fa ll in ribbons fro m th e w hip when th e base has reached th e c o rre c t consistency. A t th is tim e , fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts should be fo ld e d in. It is im p o rta n t th a t th e fla v o rin g s be liquid enough to blend easily. Fold in th e fla v o rin g s u n til th e re are no stre a k s in th e m ixture . W hip the egg w h ites w ith the rem aining sugar to s t if f peaks in a com p le te ly clean and dry bowl. Beat the w hites a t medium speed a t f ir s t to begin to separate the pro te in strands. Add the sugar in sm all increm ents w ith the m ixer on high speed u n til the peaks o f the beaten w h ites remain s t if f and do n o t droop when the b e ater is pulled fro m the bowl. The w h ites should s till appear shiny, not dry. Fold them into the yolk m ixtu re g e n tly to keep the maximum volume. Some chefs like to add the w h ites to the yolks in tw o or m ore addi­ tio n s so th a t the f ir s t a d dition lightens the base. That way, less volum e is lo s t fro m subsequent additions. Use a liftin g and fo ld in g m o tio n to avoid d e fla tin g th e mousse. The fin is h e d m ousse should be w e ll blended b u t s till re ta in as much volum e as possible. A t th is point, th e m ousse is ready f o r service o r may be re frig e ra te d , covered, f o r a s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e b e fo re service. The m ousse may be scooped o r piped in to m olds o r con tain ers f o r p re se n ta tio n .

2. evaluate the finished mousse. A w ell-m a de m ousse should have an intense, id e n tifia b le fla vo r, w ith added sm oo th ne ss and richness fro m the cream. The co lo r should be even th ro u g h o u t each p o rtio n . M ousses have a lig h t, fo a m y te x tu re due to th e a d d itio n o f b o th beaten egg w h ite s and w h ipp ed cream. W hen th e w h ite s and cream are beaten p ro p e rly, th e te x tu re is very sm oo th and fine .

c h a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S

1097

Vanilla Sauce

Pastry Cream

M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL

M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL

1 lb /4 5 4 g milk

2 lb /9 0 7 g milk

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

B o z/8 5 g cornstarch

8 o z /2 2 7 g s u g a r

6 eggs

14 egg yolks

1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract

1. H eatthemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodandseeds,

andhalfofthesugaruntilthemixturejustreaches theboilingpoint. 2 . Com binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand temperthemixtureintothehotmilk. 3. Stirringconstantly,heatslow lytoi8o°F/82°C. 4 . Rem ovethecustardsauceimmediatelyfromthe stoveandstrainitthroughafine-meshsievedirectly intoacontainersetinanicewaterbath. 5. Coolto40°F/4°Candstoreintherefrigerator. NOTES: This sauce can be cooked over a water bath fo r more control of the heat source. S ubstitute 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract fo r the vanilla bean. Add it ju s t before straining the sauce. All milk or light cream can be used in place o f heavy cream.

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

3 o z/8 5 g butter

1. Com binethemilkwithhalfof thesugarinasauce­

panandbringittoaboil. 2 .Com binetheremainingsugarwiththecornstarch, addtheeggs,andmixuntilsmooth. 3. Tem pertheeggmixtureintothehotmilkandbring ittoafullboil, stirringconstantly. 4 . Rem oveitfromtheheatandstirinthevanillaand butter.Transferittoacleancontainer,placeapiece ofplasticwrapdirectlyonthepastrycream,andlet itcooloveranicewaterbath. 5. Thepastrycreamisreadytousenow ,oritmaybe thoroughlycooledandstoredintherefrigeratorfor lateruse. Chocolate P astry Cream: Add 8 o z/2 2 7 g Hard Ganache (page 1128) to the finished but s till s lightly warm pastry cream.

M akes 2 lb 2 oz/g64 g

Creme Brulee Makes10servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream 6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar

1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g m ilk Pinch salt

6V20z/184g sugar 1 vanilla bean 4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour

SV2 o z/1 5 6 g egg yolks, beaten 2 eggs 3 egg yolks

1 . Com bine6floz/i8omLofthemilkwithhalfofthe

sugarinasaucepanandbringtoaboil, stirringgen­ tlywithawoodenspoon. 2.. M eanwhile,combinetheflourwiththeremaining sugar. Stirringwithawirewhisk,addtheremaining 15floz/450mLofmilk.Addtheeggsandeggyolks, stirringwiththewhiskuntilthemixtureiscom­ pletelysmooth. 3.Tem pertheeggmixturebyaddingaboutone-third ofthehotmilk,stirringconstantlywiththewhisk. Addtheeggmixturetotheremaininghotmilkin thesaucepan.Continuecooking,vigorouslystirring withthewhisk,untilthepastrycreamcomestoa boilandthewhiskleavesatrailinit. 4 . Pourthepastrycreamontoalargeshallowcontainer orbowl.Coveritwithplasticwrapplaceddirectly againstthesurfaceofthecream,andcoolitoveran icewaterbath. 5. Refrigeratethepastrycream ,covered.

FINISHING 5 o z /1 4 2 g sugar 4V2 o z /1 2 8 g confectioners' sugar

1. Com binethecream,4oz/113gofthesugar,and

thesaltandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom theheat. Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseeds fromthepod,andaddboththepodandseedstothe cream.Coverandsteepfor15minutes. 2 . Returnthepottotheheatandbringthecreamtoa boil. 3. Com binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand temperthemixtureintothehotcream.Strainthe custardthroughafine-meshsieveandladleitinto ten6-floz/i8o-mLcremebruleeramekins,filling themthree-quartersfull. 4 . Bakeinaw aterbathat325°F/i63°Cuntiljustset, 20 to25minutes. 5. Rem ovethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled. 6. Tofinishthecremebrulee,evenlycoateachcus­ tard’ssurfacewithathinlayer(1/16in/1.50mm)of sugar.Useapropanetorchtomeltandcaramelize thesugar.Lightlydustthesurfacewithconfection­ ers’sugarandserve.

c h a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S

custard, cream, and mousse recipes

Pastry Cream fo r Souffles

1099

Creme Caramel M akes 10 servings CARAMEL 2 o z/5 7 g water 5 3/ t o z/1 6 3 g sugar CUSTARD 1 lb 7 o z/6 52 g milk 6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar 2 ts p /1 0 mL vanilla extract 4 eggs, lightly beaten 3 egg yolks

1. Topreparethecaram el, combinethewaterand

asmallamountofthesugarinapansetoverme­ diumheat.Allowthesugartomelt. 2 .A ddtheremainingsugarinsmallincrements, allowingittomeltbeforeeachnewaddition. Continuethisprocessuntilallthesugarhasbeen added.Cookthecarameltothedesiredcolor. 3. Dividethecaram elequallyamongten4-floz/120mLramekins, swirlingthecarameltocoatthebot­ toms. Placetheramekinsinadeepbakingdishand reserve.

UOO

BAKING AND PASTRY

4 . Tom akethecustard,combinethemilkandhalfof

thesugarandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom theheatandaddthevanilla.Returntotheheatand bringtoaboil. 5. Blendtheeggsandeggyolks,com binewiththerestof thesugar,andtemperthemixtureintothehotmilk. 6. Strainthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveand ladleitintothecaramel-coatedramekins,filling themthree-quartersfull. 7. Baketheram ekinsinawaterbathat325°F/i63°C untilfullyset, about1hour. 8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe theramekinsdry.Allowthecustardstocool completely. 9. W rapeachcustardindividuallyandrefrigeratethem foratleast24hoursbeforeunmoldingandserving. 10 .Tounm oldthecustards,runasmallsharpknife betweenthecustardandtheramekin,invertontoa servingplate,andtapitlightlytorelease.

Diplomat Cream

M akes 48 fl oz/1.44 L

M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL

1 lb /4 5 4 g milk

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream, well chilled

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream

Vi o z/7 g powdered gelatin

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

2 o z/5 7 g water

7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar

1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099), warm

1 o z/2 8 g glucose syrup V 4 tsp /1 g salt 15 egg yolks

1.Com binethemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodand

seeds,halfofthesugar,thesyrup,andsaltina saucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,7to10minutes. 2 .Rem ovethesaucepanfromtheheat, cover,and steepfor5minutes. 3.M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­ ingsugar. 4 .Rem ovethevanillabeanpodandreturnthemilk mixturetoasimmer. 5.Tem perone-thirdofthehotmixtureintotheegg yolks,whiskingconstantly. 6. Addthetemperedeggmixturetotheremaining hotliquidinthesaucepan,stirringconstantlyover mediumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughto coatthebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 7.Straintheicecreambaseintoam etalcontainerin anicewaterbath.Stiroccasionally,untilitreaches below40°F/4°C,about1hour. 8. Coverandrefrigerateforaminimumof12hours. 9 .Processthebaseinanicecreamm achineaccord­ ingtothemanufacturer’sdirections. 10.Packtheicecreaminstoragecontainersorm olds asdesired,andfreezeforseveralhoursorover­ nightbeforeserving.

1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem bleandprepare

thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused forthecream. 2 .W hipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Coverandrefrigerate. 3. Bloomthegelatininthew ater.Meltthegelatin. 4 . Tem perthemeltedgelatinintothepastrycream. Strainthroughafine-meshsieve.Coolthepastry creamoveranicewaterbathto75°F/24°C. 5. Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdofthe whippedcreamintothepastrycreammixture.Fold intheremainingwhippedcream,thoroughlyincor­ poratingit. 6. Immediatelypipethediplomatcreamintothepre­ paredpastriesorcontainers. Coverandrefrigerate untilcompletelyset.

custard, cream, and mousse recipes

Vanilla Ice Cream

C hocolate Ice Cream: Before straining the ice cream base, s tir 6 oz/170 g m elted b itte rsw ee t chocolate into the mixture. C o ffe e Ice Cream: S ub stitute 2 oz/5 7g coarsely ground coffee fo r the vanilla bean. Raspberry Ice Cream: Omit the milk. A fte r re frig era ting the ice cream base, s tir in 16 f l o z/4 8 0 mL raspberry puree.

chapter 34 » C U S T A R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S

1103

Chocolate Mousse

Raspberry Mousse

M akes 10 servings

M akes 88 fl oz/2.64 L

10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1 o z/2 8 g powdered gelatin

V /i o z/4 3 g butter

10 o z/2 8 4 g water

5 eggs, separated

14 o z/3 9 7 g heavy cream

2 tb s p /3 0 mL water

1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g raspberry puree

2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r

5 egg whites

8 o z/2 2 7 g heavy cream, whipped

9 o z/2 5 5 g sugar

Rum, as needed (optional)

1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem bleandprepare

thedesiredpastries,containers, ormoldstobeused forthemousse. 2 . Com binethechocolateandbutterandmeltovera hotwaterbath. 3.Com binetheeggyolkswithhalfofthewaterand halfofthesugarandwhiskoverahotwaterbath untilitholdsat145°F/63°Cfor15seconds. Remove fromtheheatandwhiskuntilcool. 4 . Com binetheeggwhiteswiththeremainingsugar inamixerbowlandwhiskoverahotwaterbathto 145°F/63°C.Removefromtheheatandwhiptofull volume.Continuewhippinguntilcool. 5. Usingalargerubberspatula,foldthechocolatem ix­ tureintotheeggyolks. 6. Foldtheeggwhitemixtureintotheeggyolk-choco­ latemixture. 7. Foldinthew hippedcreamandaddtherum,ifusing. 8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintomolds.

1104

BAKING AND PASTRY

1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem bleandprepare

thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused forthemousse. 2 . Bloomthegelatininthew ater. 3. W hipthecreamtomediumpeaks.Coverand refrigerate. 4 .W armhalfofthefruitpureeinasaucepan.Remove itfromtheheat. 5. M eltthegelatin.Addthemeltedgelatintothewarm pureeandstirtoincorporate. Blendintheremain­ ingpuree. Cooltheraspberrymixtureto70°F/2i°C. 6. Meanwhile,combinetheeggwhitesandsugarina mixerbowloverapotofsimmeringwaterandheat, stirringconstantlywithawhisk,untilthemixture reaches145°F/63°C.Transferthebowltothemixer andwhipathighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilstiff peaksform.Continuebeatinguntilthemeringue hascompletelycooled. 7. Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdofthe meringueintotheraspberrymixturetolightenit. Foldintheremainingmeringue,thoroughlyincor­ poratingit. Foldinthewhippedcream. 8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintothepas­ tries, containers,ormolds.

Chocolate Souffle M akes 10 servings 5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar, plus as needed for ramekin preparation

Bread and B utter Pudding M akes 10 servings

3 o z/8 5 g butter

3 o z/8 5 g raisins

10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped

4 f I o z/1 2 0 m L ru m

2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g Pastry Cream for Souffles (page 1099), cooled

9 o z/2 5 5 g Brioche Loaf (page 1040) or Challah (page 1040)

3 egg yolks

3 o z/8 5 g butter, melted

12 egg whites

2 lb /9 0 7 g milk

1. Coattheinsideoften4-floz/120-m Lovenproof

ramekinswithafilmofsoftbutter,makingsureto coattherimsaswellastheinsides,anddustwith sugar. 2 .Topreparethesoufflebase,m eltthebutterand chocolatetogetherinabowloverapanofbarely simmeringwater,stirringgentlytoblend.Blendthe chocolatemixtureintothepastrycream.Blendin theeggyolks. 3. Inthebow lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites tosoftpeaksonmediumspeedusingthewirewhip. Graduallysprinkleinthesugarwhilecontinuingto whip,thenwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks. 4 . Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdoftheme­ ringueintothechocolatebase.Foldintheremaining meringue,thoroughlyincorporatingit. 5. Portionthesoufflem ixtureintotheprepared ramekins. 6. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilfullyrisen,about20min­ utes.Serveimmediately.

6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar 6 eggs, beaten 4 egg yolks, beaten

V2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL vanilla extract V2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon '/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt

1. Placetheraisinsinabow landaddtherum.Set

asidetoplumpfor20minutes,thendrain. 2 . CutthebreadintoVi-in/i-cmcubes. Placeona sheetpananddrizzlewiththebutter.Toastina 350°F/i77°Coven,stirringonceortwice,untilgold­ enbrown. 3. Com binethemilkand3oz/85g°fthesugarina saucepanandbringtoaboil. 4.M eanwhile,blendtheeggs,eggyolks,vanilla,and theremaining3oz/85gsugartomaketheliaison. Temperbygraduallyaddingaboutone-thirdofthe hotmilk,whiskingconstantly.Addtheremaining hotmilkandstrainthecustardintoalargebowl. 5. A ddthebread,cinnamon,salt,anddrainedraisinsto thecustard.Soakoveranicewaterbathforatleast hourtoallowthebreadtoabsorbthecustard. 6. Lightlybrushten6-floz/i8o-mLramekinswithsoft­ enedbutter. 7. Ladlethem ixtureintothepreparedramekins, fill­ ingthemthree-quartersfull. Bakeinawaterbathat 350°F/i77°Cuntiljustset,45to50minutes. 8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled. 1

1106

BAKING AND PASTRY

fillings, frosting and dessert sauces There are many options fo r assembling and finishing a cake or fo r creating the finishing touches to a plated dessert. In adding thes elements, the chef should always be m indful of marrying all the flavors and textures, so that they blend with, complement, a enhance each other. In addition to th e ir role as a dessert a^ they are also used as a basic component o f other i t e m s ^ ^ ^ H H fro s tin g s ^ jjd s ^ u c e s can be prepared in a variety

insistencies to

p **-

cojag^m p ig m eent n t a range o f dessert items. They ccan a nbb4^ jo t e d on the plate, fzzled, s p o o n e ^ j^ p re a d over the main it ^ |^ p j< e Tor pastry.

B u tt e r c r e a m s are m a d e by b le n d in g s o ft b utter into an e gg-a n d - s u g ar base. B u t t e r c r e a m s H E L P TO

MAKE

ELEGANT

CAKES AND

TORTES.

The

MANNER

IN W H I C H

THE

EGGS A N D

S U G A R ARE

C O M B I N E D , AS W E L L AS W H E T H E R W H O L E EGGS , EGG Y O L K S , OR EGG W H I T E S A R E U S E D , P R O D U C E S A VA RI ET Y OF BUTTERCREAMS.

buttercream For all typ e s o f b u tte rc re a m it is im p o rta n t th a t the b u tte r be s o ft and a t room te m p e ra ­ tu re ; hard b u tte r w ill n o t in co rp o ra te to fo rm a cream y sm oo th fro s tin g . To make Swiss b u tte rcre a m , com bine th e sugar and egg w h ite s and g e n tly w h isk over a sim m e ring hot w a te r bath u n til th e sugar is dissolved, the m ixtu re is warm , and th e egg w h ite s are fro th y . N ext w hip th e m ixtu re to fo rm a s t if f peak m eringue, add the b u tte r, and w hip to fo rm the b u tte rcre a m . Swiss b u tte rc re a m is stab le and good fo r icing cakes and pipin g borders and decor, b u t i f you w a n t the m o st stab le bu tte rcre a m , use Italian bu tte rcre a m . To make Ita lia n b u tte rcre a m , have th e s o ft, ro o m -te m p e ra tu re b u tte r, egg w hites, and sugar ready. Begin by cooking the sugar and w a te r to make a syrup. N ext w hip the egg w h ite s to s o ft peaks and then add the h o t sugar syrup. A fte r the m ixtu re reaches fu ll v o l­ ume, continue to w hip to cool down the m eringue b e fo re adding th e bu tte r. Flavorings fo r b u tte rcre a m m ust also be a t room te m p e r­ a tu re and ready to add as soon as the b u tte rc re a m is made.

m ethod at-a-glance 1. Cook the sugar to s o ft ball stage.

2. Whip the egg whites, slowly adding the sugar syrup while the eggs whip.

3. Gradually add softened b utter to the base and beat until smooth.

1108

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

The fo llo w in g fla vo rin g s are f o r 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f prepared b u t­ tercrea m : » 3 o z /8 5 g b itte rsw e et chocolate, m elted and cooled » 2 o z /5 7 g w hite or milk chocolate, m elted and cooled » 2 o z /5 7 g praline paste, 1 tb s p /1 5 mL brandy, and 1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract

buttercream

1. to prepare the meringue,

com ­

bine sugar and w a te r in a saucepan and b rin g to a boil. C ontinue to b o il th e sugar syrup w ith o u t s tirrin g u n til th e te m p e ra tu re reaches 2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . Use a w e t p a s try brush to w ipe down th e sides o f th e pan to dissolve any sugar c ry s ta ls th a t splash on to th e sides. ( If th e cry s ta ls rem ain, th e y w ill a c t as "seeds" and cause th e syrup to crysta llize .) Use a candy th e rm o m e te r to check th e te m ­ p e ra tu re o f th e syrup. This te m p e ra tu re is also known as the s o ft ba ll stage. W hen th e syrup reaches th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re , add it im m e d ia te ly to th e egg w h ites.

method in detail 2. as the sugar syrup cooks, whip th e egg w h ite s on m edium speed. The ideal is to have the egg w h ite s reach s o ft peaks a t th e same tim e th a t the syrup reaches 2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . W ith th e m ixe r s till running, g ra d u a lly pour th e h o t sugar syrup in a th in stre a m in to th e w h ite s. To p re ve n t s p la tte rin g , add th e syrup so th a t it pours down th e side o f th e bow l ra th e r tha n on to th e w ire w hip. Continue to be at th e m ix tu re u n til a firm m eringue fo rm s and th e m ix tu re cools to room te m p e ra tu re . If the m eringue is to o hot, it w ill m e lt th e b u tte r as it is added. Check th e te m p e ra tu re by fe e lin g th e side o f th e bowl. It should be cool to th e touch.

chapt er 35 »

FILLINGS, FROSTI NGS, AND DE S S E RT S AUCE S

1109

3. gradually add soft butter

to the

m eringue base and be at th e m ix tu re u n til a sm ooth, lig h t b u tte rc re a m fo rm s . As th e b u tte r is f ir s t added, the m e­ ringue w ill fa ll and th e m ix tu re may appear broken. Con­ tin u e to add th e b u tte r in sm all am ounts w ith th e m ixer running and th e b u tte rc re a m w ill becom e sm oo th and light. A t th is p o in t, it is ready to apply to a prepared cake, o r it may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use. B u tte rc re a m takes on o th e r fla v o rs and odors re a d ily and m ust, th e re fo re , be tig h tly covered b e fo re sto rin g . It may be re frig e ra te d fo r up to 7 days o r fro z e n f o r up to 3 m onths. A llo w chilled b u tte rc re a m to re tu rn to room te m p e ra tu re and beat it using th e paddle u n til ve ry sm oo th and lig h t b e fo re using it to f ill o r f r o s t a cake. B u tte rc re a m s should be p e rfe c tly sm oo th and s o ft. They should be sw e et b u t n o t o ve rly sw eet. There should be no d e te c ta b le grains or pieces o f sugar o r any lumps o f b u tte r.

Fillings and Icings fo r Layered Cakes AMOUNT FOR 8-IN/20-CM CAKE

AMOUNTFOR 10-IN/25-CM CAKE

BUTTERCREAM

12 o z /3 4 0 g

1 lb /4 5 4 g

LEMON CURD

12 o z /3 4 0 g

1 lb /4 5 4 g

GANACHE (FOR GLAZING)

12 o z /3 4 0 g

1 lb /4 5 4 g

BUTTERCREAM

12 o z /3 4 0 g

1 lb /4 5 4 j

fillin g

ic in g

BAKING AND PASTRY

a k e l a y e r s s h o u l d be a l l o w e d to c o o l c o m p l e t e l y b e f o r e c u t t in g t h e m

into l a y e r s

.C

a k es

B E C A U S E T H E Y HA V E A M OR E U N I F O R M F L A V O R A ND T E X T U R E . F l L L I N G S S P R E A D ONTO L A Y E R S S H O U L D G E N E R A L L Y BE L E S S T H A N V 2 I n / 1 C M THI CK.

cake layering and icing basics B efo re slicin g a cake in to layers, trim any uneven areas fro m th e sides and to p . For the be st resu lts, use a cake -d e co ra tin g tu rn ta b le and a k n ife w ith a long, thin , se rra te d blade. S et th e cake on a cake round and then on th e tu rn ta b le . F irst, d ivid e the cake by eye in to th e desired num ber o f layers. In se rt th e k n ife in to th e side o f th e cake a t th e a p p ro p ria te level and, holding th e kn ife stea dy and level and slo w in g ro ta tin g th e tu rn ta b le , move the blade o f th e k n ife in to th e cake to cu t th e layer. Remove th e layer and s e t it aside; re p e a t as

cake layering and icing basics

C

TH AT A R E M A D E O F M O R E T H I N N E R L A Y E R S A R E P R E F E R A B L E TO T H O S E WI TH F E W E R , T H I C K E R L A Y E R S ,

necessary. B e fo re assem bling th e cake, brush any loose crum bs fro m th e layers. Cake layers may be m oistened w ith a v a rie ty o f syrups, fro m plain sim ple syrup to one in fu sed w ith spices or a liqueur. The syrup adds m o istu re to d rie r layers such as sponge cakes, and adds fla v o r as well. Brush th e syrup evenly over th e cu t surface o f each layer b e fo re it is assem bled. The layers should be m oiste ne d b u t n o t sodden.

m ethod at-a-glance Set the cake in the center o f a turntable.

2. Apply generous icing to the sides, smoothing to create an even finish.

3. Continue to ice, working from the edges of the cake toward the center. To finish, smooth the lip o f icing over and across the top o f the cake to create a smooth, even surface. A

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

llll

1. use a turntable fo r icing a cake. A tu rn ­ ta b le allow s th e cake to be ro ta te d easily, which aids in th e a p p lica tio n o f a sm ooth, even layer o f icing. Use e ith e r a s tra ig h t o r o ffs e t m e ta l spa tula to ice th e cake. The ap­ p ro p ria te le ng th o f th e spatula depends on th e size o f the cake and personal p re fe ren ce. A fte r fillin g th e cake, place a generous am o un t o f b u tte rc re a m on to p . Hold a spatula stea dy and a t a s lig h t angle w h ile spinning th e tu rn ta b le to apply a sm o o th even layer o f b u tte rc re a m on to p o f the cake. A llo w th e excess b u tte rc re a m to fa ll down th e sides o f th e cake.

method in detail 2. to ice the sides

o f th e cake, apply a gen­

erous am ount o f icing to th e sides to ease s m o o th in g and ensure a clean fin is h . To sm oo th th e sides o f th e cake a f­ te r ap p lyin g th e icing, hold a spa tula v e rtic a lly against the cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle, w ith th e edge o f the spatula to u ch in g th e icing, and ro ta te the cake ag ainst th e spa­ tula ; th e tip o f th e spa tula should ju s t to u ch th e surface o f the tu rn ta b le . This w ill n o t only sm oo th th e icing, b u t w ill also cause som e o f th e excess icing fro m th e sides to rise above the to p o f th e cake, m aking a lip or ridge.

1112

BAKING AND PASTRY

o f th e cake

cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle and sm oo th th e lip o f icing over and across th e to p to cre a te a p e rfe c tly sm oo th to p and a sharp angled edge.

cake layering and icing basics

3. work from the edges

to w a rd the center. Hold th e spatula ag ainst th e to p o f the

4. mark the cake into portions, if desired, using a s tra ig h t-e d g e d k n ife o r long s tra ig h t m etal spatula. A lte rn a tiv e ly , garnish may be ap plied by tre a tin g th e cake to p as a w hole (th is is ty p ic a lly done to sm a lle r cakes o r to spe cia l occasion cakes). A v a rie ty o f sim p le garnishes can also be ap plied (such as a shell b o rd e r o r ro s e tte s ), w ith o r w ith o u t a d d itio n a l garnishes, such as cho colate c u to u ts, fre s h berries, jam , and th e like.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

1113

Ganache, a b le n d o f cream and ch o c o la te , has m any uses.

It

m a y be u s e d a s a s a u c e o r t o

G L A Z E A C A K E , O R IT M A Y B E W H I P P E D A N D U S E D A S A F I L L I N G A N d /

o

R I C I NG. G A N A C H E C A N A L S O

B E M A D E W I T H A S T I F F E R C O N S I S T E N C Y , C H I L L E D , A N D R O L L E D I NT O T R U F F L E S . L l G H T G A N A C H E IS SOMETIM ES USED AS A CHOCOLATE SAUCE.

ganache There are a num ber o f recipes fo r th is a ll-tim e fa v o rite d e sse rt sauce, and by varying the p ro p o rtio n s in th e recipe so th a t th e re is m ore chocolate in re la tio n to the am ount o f cream, a harder ganache can be made. This hard ganache can be paddled and used fo r icing or fillin g . A dding an even g re a te r am ount o f chocolate w ill produce th e heavy ganache used to prepare cho colate tru ffle s . C hocolate fo r ganache should be cut in to ve ry sm all pieces, which fa c ilita te s even m elting. One o f th e m o st e ffic ie n t ways to chop cho colate is to use a se rra te d knife ; the se rra tio n causes th e cho colate to break in to sm all shards as it is cut. Use the b e s t-q u a lity cho colate available to be sure o f a sm ooth, rich ly fla v o re d sauce. Place the chopped choco­ la te in to a h e a tp ro o f bowl. Place th e cream and b u tte r ( if using) in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Infusion is an e ffe c tiv e m ethod o f fla v o rin g ganache. Bring the cream to a boil, add th e fla vo rin g , and rem ove the pan fro m the heat. Cover and allow to stand u n til the fla v o r has been infused in to th e cream (5 to 10 m inutes). S train, if necessary. A fte r strain in g, w a te r or m ilk should be added as necessary to bring the liquid to its o rigin al w e ig h t so the

m ethod at-a-glance Combine the hot cream and chocolate.

2. Let the m ixture stand undisturbed fo r several minutes.

3. S tir the ganache until the cream is incorporated and the m ixture is smooth, thick, and shiny.

1114

BAKING AND PASTRY

fin is h e d ganache w ill be th e p ro pe r consistency. Ideal in­ g re d ie n ts fo r in fu sio ns include teas, herbs, and spices. D epending on the desired resu lt, liqueurs or s p irits can be added fo r fla vo rin g . Pastes and com pounds can also be added. Because these are s tro n g ly fla vo re d , the y are usu­ ally added to ta s te to th e fin is h e d ganache.

1. combine the cream

w ith th e choco­

late. H eat th e cream and pour it over th e chopped choco­ late. A llo w th e m ix tu re to stand, un distu rbed , f o r a fe w m inutes.

method in detail 2. stir the ganache u n til th e cream is fu lly in c o rp o ra te d and th e m ix tu re is co m p le te ly sm ooth. A t th is p o in t, add any de sire d fla v o rin g (fla v o re d liqueurs, e x tra c ts , o r purees). The ganache is ready to be used now o r may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use. Ganache should be in te n s e ly fla v o re d , w ith th e choco­ la te fla v o r enriched and sm oo th ed by th e cream. The te x ­ tu re should be c o m p le te ly sm oo th and dense. The m ore cho colate in th e ganache, th e th ic k e r th e te x tu re w ill be. Ganache is very g lossy when w arm ed and used as a glaze. When cooled and w hipped, it becom es m ore opaque w ith a m a tte -lik e fin is h , lig h te n in g s om ew hat in color. Ingre­ d ie n ts added to fla v o r o r garnish th e ganache should be a p p ro p ria te , w ith o u t m asking o r ove rw h elm ing th e choco­ late's flavo r.

chapter 35 » FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

lll5

MAKINGTRUFFLES

Scoophardganacheandrollintosmall ballsinthepalmofyourhand. Once thetruffleshaveset,theyarereadytobe finishedbyrollinginnuts,cocoapowder, confectioners’sugar,oramyriadofother ingredients.Togivethetrufflesaglossy sheenandalongershelflife,coatthemin temperedchocolate. Picturedhereisastationforcoating trufflesintemperedchocolate. Theun­ finishedtrufflesareonthechef'sleft,the bowloftemperedchocolateisinthecen­ ter,andthecoatedtrufflesareontheright. Tocoattrufflesintemperedchocolate, smearasmallamountofthechocolate inthepalmofyourhand,rollthetruffle

1116

BAKING AND PASTRY

tocoatinathinevenlayer,andplacethe coatedtrufflesonthefarthestsideofa parchment-linedsheetpantopreventhav­ ingtopassoverthemandpossiblydrip chocolateontothem.Allowthechocolate tocompletelyhardenandthenrepeatthe processtogiveeachtruffletwocoatingsof chocolate. Afterthechocolatesets,thetruffles shouldbeshinyandwithoutanycracks. Storeinacool,dryenvironment,butnot intherefrigerator.Handlingthemoral­ lowingthemtotoucheachotherwillmar theirglossyfinishwithfingerprintsor scratches. Ifyoumusthandlethem,wear glovesandworkcarefully

W henusingamicrowavetomelt Chocolateispurchasedintemper,butin chocolate,usemediumpowerratherthan ordertoworkwithit,itmustbemelted highandheatthechocolatefor30-second andthentemperedagain,sothatasitcools intervals,removingandstirringitaftereach andsetsitwillreturntothesamestateas intervaltoensureevenheatingandmelting. whenpurchased. Toproperlytemperchocolate, itmust T E M P E R IN G C H O C O L A T E alsobemeltedproperlytoensurethatit Twoofthemostcommonandeasilymas­ isnotoverheated,whichwouldruinthe teredwaystotemperchocolatearethe qualityofthechocolate. Beforemelting, seedmethodandtheblockmethod. chocolateshouldbefinelychopped.The Fortheseedmethod,usechoppedtem­ smallerthepieces,themoresurfacearea peredchocolate—approximately25per­ isexposedandthequickerthechocolate centoftheweightofthemeltedchocolate melts,helpingtopreventoverheating. A tobetemperedshouldbeaddedtothe hotwaterbathoramicrowaveisbestfor warm(no°F/43°C)meltedchocolateand gentlystirredtomeltandincorporateit. meltingchocolate. W henusingahotwaterbath,itisim­ Thewholemassisthenbroughttotheap­ portanttorememberthatmoisture(steam, propriateworkingtemperature. Fortheblockmethod,addasingle water,orcondensation)mustnevercome b lo c koftemperedchocolatetowarm incontactwiththechocolate. Moisture m e lte dchocolateandstirgentlyuntil causeschocolateto“seize,”ortobecome thedesiredtemperatureisreached.After thickandgrainy,renderingitunfitfor temperingandmostotheruses.Forthis thechocolateisbroughtintotemper,the reason,whenusingadoubleboilerbesure seed,orblockofchocolate, isremoved. thatthebowlortopofthedoubleboileris Theblockcanbeusedagain.Thismethod completelydryandfitssnuglyoverthepan issimpleandeffective,butslightlymore ofwater,formingatightseal. Thewater timeconsumingthanothermethodsof shouldbesteaminghotbutnotsimmering. tempering. W henthechocolateisintemper,it Gentlystirthechocolateoccasionallyasit s h o u ld evenlycoatthebackofasmallmet­ meltsforevenmelting.Removethechoco­ a l s p o o n andthensetquicklywithaclear latefromtheheatpromptlyonceitisfully s h in e a n d nostreaks. melted. M E L T IN G C H O C O L A T E

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

working with chocolate

MELTING AND TEMPERING CHOCOLATE

1117

GLAZING CAKES, COOKIES, ORPASTRIES

Setacakethatistobeglazedonacard­ boardcakeroundandapplyasealcoatof buttercreamorjam,ifnecessary,andchill untilsetpriortoglazing.Asealcoatisvital ifthecakehasbeentrimmedorcutand layered,asitpreventscrumbsfrombeing incorporatedintotheglaze. Placethecakeonawirerackovera cleansheetpan.Havetheglazetepidso thatitdoesnotmeltthesealcoat(ifone wasapplied).Theglazeshouldnotbeso thinthatitrunsoffthecakecompletely. Pourorladletheglazeoverthecake.Use anoffsetspatulatoquicklyspreadthe glazeandcompletelyenrobethesidesof thecake.Thisstepmustbedonequickly, beforetheglazebeginstosetup,toavoid leavingspatulamarksonthesurface. Gentlytapthewirerackonthesheetpan tofacilitatetheflowofanyexcessglazeoff thecake.

1118

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

on d an t

pas tr ies

is t h e

. M

ost

characteristic

tr ad itio n al kitchens g lo s s y

g la z e

and

finish

for

petits

b a k es h o ps

,

it m u s t

use

f o u r s

,

ec la ir s

pu r c h a s e d

be w a r m e d

until

,

an d

fo n d a n t

d o u g h n u t s

. F

it is l i q u i d

or

,

a m o n g

fo n d an t

en o u g h

to

to

flow

other

have

its

readily

(1 0 5 °F /4 1 °C ).

working with fondant

working with tondant

F

Sm all ite m s are ty p ic a lly dipped in to th e fo n d a n t using a d ip p in g fo rk or s im ila r to o l. Larger ite m s are se t on racks on sheet pans and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, or drizzled over them . Fondant can be fla v o re d and colored as necessary using purees, con cen tra te , choco­ late, o r fo o d co lo rin g gels, liquids, o r pastes.

m ethod at-a-glance 1. Warm and thin the fondant until it reaches proper working tem perature.

2. Flavor and/or color the fondant as desired, adjusting the te xtu re as needed.

3. Keep fondant warm during use and work quickly fo r best results.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

1119

1. fondant is used

as th e tra d itio n a l glaze

fo r m any p a s try ite m s such as p e tits fo u rs, eclairs, and doughnuts. For fo n d a n t to gain its glossy fin ish , it m ust be p ro p e rly w arm ed u n til it is liquid enough to flo w rea d­ ily. P ro p e rly th in n e d fo n d a n t should be shiny and s lig h tly tra n sp a re n t. This pro ced ure is known as tem pe rin g. M o s t kitch e n s and bakeshops use purchased fon dan t. To pre pa re fo n d a n t so th a t it may be used f o r glazing, place it in a s ta in le s s -s te e l bow l and m e lt it over a h o t w a­ te r bath. Do n o t le t th e fo n d a n t exceed 10 5°F /41°C . Thin th e fo n d a n t to th e desired co n siste n cy w ith w arm w ater, corn syrup, o r a liqueur.

method in detail 2. once melted,

plain fo n d a n t can be f la ­

vored a n d /o r colore d as de sire d w ith co lo rin g pastes, purees, con ce n tra te s, o r chocolate. If using chocolate, fo r exam ple, s tir th e m e lte d cho colate in to th e fo n d a n t to fla v o r it. The fo n d a n t may need to be thin ne d again a fte r th e cho colate has been added.

1120

BAKING AND PASTRY

as you

w o rk and be sure to have a co m p le te glazing setu p ready. Sm all ite m s such as eclairs are ty p ic a lly dipp ed in to fo n ­ dant. Larger ite m s are se t on w ire racks over she et pans and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, o r drizzled over the item . Dip the to p o f an e cla ir in to the bow l o f fo n d a n t and hold it v e rtic a l to a llo w th e excess fo n d a n t to drip o ff. Use your fin g e r to g e n tly rem ove any excess fo n d a n t th a t s till rem ains a t th e end o f th e e cla ir b e fo re placing it on a she et pan.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

orking with tondant

3. keep the fondant warm

1121

F

ruit

fillings

are

used

for

m a n y

pies

and

tarts

. Th

e y

are

u s u a l ly

prepared

w ith

pitted

O R S L I C E D A N D P E E L E D F R E S H F R U I T . T H E F R U I T IS T Y P I C A L L Y C O M B I N E D W I T H S U G A R A N D A S T A R C H (f

lo u r

, A R R O W R O O T , C O R N S T A R C H , O R T A P I O C A ) TO P R O D U C E A F L A V O R F U L F I L L I N G W I T H E N O U G H

B O D Y T O S L I C E I NTO N E A T P O R T I O N S .

making a pie or tart Cooked cream or pudding fillin g s should be prepared only a fte r th e pie or ta r t shell has been com p le te ly prepared, baked, and cooled, so th a t when th e fillin g is ready, it may be im m e d ia te ly poured in to the shell. Hold all fillin g s a t the c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re fo r th e best fla v o r and con sisten cy in the fin ish e d pie or ta rt. A w ide v a rie ty o f to p p in g s are com m only used fo r pies and ta rts , including crum bs or streuse l, p a s try crust, m eringue, or glazes such as m elte d chocolate, ganache, o r a p rico t jam . Egg wash is o fte n ap plied to d o u b le -cru st or la ttic e -c ru s t pies o r ta r ts and should be blended in advance and applied in a thin, even layer w ith a p a s try brush. Pies and ta rts should be baked on sheet pans to catch any drips. Cool pies on w ire racks.

L I N I N G A PIE OR TA RT PAN Alw ays w o rk w ith th o ro u g h ly chilled dough. C hilling allow s th e dough to relax, th e fa t to firm up, and the starches pre se n t in the flo u r to com p le te ly absorb th e liquid. To ro ll o u t dough, tu rn it onto a flo u re d w o rk surface. L ig h tly d u st th e surface o f the dough w ith a d d itio n a l flo u r. Using even strokes, ro ll th e dough in to the desired thickn ess and shape. Turn it occasionally to produce an even shape and to keep it fro m s tic k in g to the w o rk surface. W ork fro m th e ce n te r to w a rd th e edges, ro llin g in d iffe re n t d irectio ns.

m ethod at-a-glance i. Carefully line the pie or ta rt pan w ith prepared dough, keeping the dough chilled before and a fte r lining.

2.

1122

If necessary, parbake the crust.

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

3. Fill the pie with desired fillin g and finish as necessary.

4. Bake the finished item as necessary.

making a pie or tart

1. line the pie or tart pan w ith p a s try dough. C a re fu lly tra n s fe r th e ro lle d dough in to th e pan. P o sitio n th e dough so th a t it c o m p le te ly covers th e e n tire pan. S e ttle th e dough in to th e pan, pre ssin g th e dough g e n tly ag ainst th e pan. Use a ball o f scrap dough to g e n tly press th e pie dough in to th e pie pan and dock th e b o tto m o f th e crust, if necessary. Trim th e excess dough fro m the rim , leaving enough to seal a to p c ru s t in place, if m aking a d o u b le -c ru s t pie, o r to pre pa re a flu te d or raised edge fo r a sin g le -c ru s t pie or ta rt.

method in detail 2. fill and finish the pie

as desired.

Some pies and ta r ts are fille d , then baked. O th ers call f o r th e c ru s t to be baked blind sep ara te ly, e ith e r p a rtia lly o r fu lly baked (see Blind Baking Pie and T art Shells, page 1124). To add a f r u it fillin g to an unbaked pie shell, com ­ bine th e fillin g in g re d ie n ts and m ound th e m in th e shell. C u s ta rd -ty p e fillin g s should be c a re fu lly poured in to the shell to ju s t below th e rim o f th e pan. Some pies, e sp ecially f r u it pies, have a to p as w ell as a b o tto m crust. Roll o u t th e to p cru s t in th e same m anner as the b o tto m cru st. C a re fu lly lay th e to p c ru s t over the pie and cu t ve n ts in it to allow steam to escape. Press the dough in place around th e rim to seal the to p and b o tto m crusts. Trim away excess overhang and pinch o r crim p the edges. Pies and, less fre q u e n tly , ta rts may be fin is h e d w ith a la ttic e crust, made by c u ttin g s trip s o f dough and laying th e m on to p o f th e f illin g t o make a grid. Seal and crim p th e edges as fo r a d o u b le -c ru s t pie. Crumb to p p in g s should be a p plied in an even layer over th e surface o f th e fillin g . A n o th e r fre q u e n t pie t o p ­ ping is m eringue, w hich is piped o n to th e pie in a d e cora­ tiv e p a tte rn or s im p ly m ounded and peaked. The m eringue is then q u ickly brow ned in a ve ry h o t oven or w ith a to rch .

chapter 35 » F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

1123

3. bake the pie. For a d o u b le -c ru s t pie, brush th e to p c ru s t ve ry lig h tly w ith egg wash and bake the pie on a she et pan in a h o t oven (4 2 5 °F /2 1 8 °C ) u n til done. In general, pies and ta rts are baked u n til the cru st is a rich golden brown. The dough should appear dry. If th e dough has been ro lle d o u t unevenly, th e th ic k e r p o rtio n s may appear m o ist, in d ic a tin g th a t the dough is n o t fu lly baked. F ru it fillin g s should be bubbling. C ustard fillin g s should be ju s t se t b u t n o t cooked to th e p o in t a t which th e surface cracks or shrinks away fro m th e crust.

BLIND BAKING PIE AND TART SHELLS

Toblindbakemeanstopartiallyorfully bakeanunfilledpieortartshell.Pastry shellsarepartiallyprebakedwhenthetime requiredtobakethefillingwillnotbelong enoughtofullybakethecrust. Shellsare completelyprebakedwhentheyaretobe filledwithaprecookedfillingoronethat doesnotrequirecookingorbaking. Toblindbakeapieortartshell,line thedoughwithparchmentpaperandfill itwithpieweights,driedbeans,orrice. Theweightswillpreventthebottomofthe crustfrombubblingupandthesidesfrom collapsingorslidingdownthepansides duringbaking. Placethepaninthepreheatedoven. Theparchmentandweightsneedonlystay inthepanuntilthecrusthasbakedlong enoughtoset.Oncethecrusthassetand

1124

B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y

willmaintainitsform(generally10to12 minutesfora9-in/23-cmcrust),remove theparchmentandweightstoallowthe crusttobrownevenly.Returnthepanto theovenandbakethecrustuntilitreaches thedesiredcolor. Ifthecrustistobebaked againwithafilling,bakeitjustuntillight golden.Forafullybakedcrust,bakeitun­ tilitreachesadeepgoldenbrown,about 20totalminutes. Brushfullyprebakedpastryshellswith alightcoatingofsoftbutterormelted chocolatebeforefilling.Thiswillprevent moistureinthefillingfromseepinginto thecrustandmakingitsoggyorcausing ittoloseitscrisptexture.Applyathin coatingtotheshellusingapastrybrush. Refrigeratetheshellsothebutterorchoc­ olatehardensfully,thenfilltheshell.

Apple Pie

Makesonedouble-crustpie(9in/23cm)

Makes3lb4ozh.47kg 1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)

4 o z /1 1 3 g w a te r

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and sliced

8 egg whites

5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar

2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cut into medium chunks, soft

V2

1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract

o z/1 4 g tapioca starch

3A o z/21 g cornstarch

1. Com bine12oz/340gofthesugarwiththewaterin

'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt

aheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilover tsp /1 g ground nutmeg medium-highheat,stirringtodissolvethesugar. tsp /1 g ground cinnamon Onceitreachesaboil,continuecookingwithout 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice stirringtothesoftballstage(238°F/ii4°C). 1 o z/2 8 g butter, melted 2 .M eanwhile,placetheeggwhitesinanelectricmixer fittedwiththewirewhip. 1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­ 3.W henthesugarsyruphasreachedapproximately tions. Dividethedoughintwoequalpieces. Roll 230°F/ii0°C,whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeed halfofthedoughVsin/3mmthickandlinethepie untilfrothy.Graduallyaddtheremaining4oz/113g pan.Reservetheotherhalf,wrappedtightlyand sugarandwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks. refrigerated. 4 .W henthesugarsyrupreaches238°F/ii4°C,additto 2 .Tosstheappleswiththesugar,tapioca,cornstarch, themeringueinaslowsteadystreamdowntheside salt,nutmeg,cinnamon,lemonjuice,andbutter. Fill ofthebowlwhilewhippingonmediumspeed.W hip th epieshellwiththeapplemixture. onhighspeeduntilthemeringuehascooledtoroom 3. Rollouttherem ainingdoughVsin/3mmthickand temperature. p la c e it o v e r th e filling. 5. A ddthebutterinsmallbatches, mixinguntilfully incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown 4 . Crimptheedgestosealandcutseveralventsinthe topofthepie. thesidesofthebowlasnecessary.Blendintheva­ nilla.Thebuttercreamisnowreadyforuseoritmay 5. Bakeonasheetpanina375^/19i°Covenuntilthe betightlycoveredandrefrigerated. fillingisbubbling,about45minutesto1hour. 6. Servewarmoratroomtemperature. NOTE: See alternative flavoring options on page 1108. V2 V2

chapter 35 » FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes

Italian Buttercream

1125

Cherry Pie

Makes5pies(gin/23cm)

Makes5pies(gin/23cm)

11 lb 4 o z/5.10 kg frozen pitted cherries

3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)

8 lb 12 o z/3.97 kg cherryjuice

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pecans

6 lb 4 oz/2.83 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)

3/2 o z/9 9 g sugar

10 o z/2 8 4 g cornstarch

3'/2 o z/9 9 g bread flour

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g s u g a r

5 lb /2.27 kg corn syrup

1 o z /2 8 g s a lt

14 eggs

10 o z/2 8 4 g lemon juice

1 o z/2 8 g salt

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vanilla extract

1 .Allowthecherriestothawovernightinasieveso

thejuicedrainsaway.Catchandreservethejuicein acontainer.Addtothereservedcherryjuiceifthe cherriesdidnotyieldenough. 2.. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­ tions. Scale1lb4oz/567gforeachpieanddivide eachintotwopieces. RollonepieceofdoughVsin/3 mmthickandlinethepiepan.Refrigeratethelined pans. Rollout,wrap,andrefrigeratetheremaining piecesofdough. 3. Com bine20floz/6oomLofthecherryjuicewith thecornstarchandstirtodissolve,makingaslurry. 4 . Com binetheremaining3%qt/3.60Lcherryjuice withthesugarandsaltinasaucepanandbringtoa boiltodissolve. 5. Slow lyaddtheslurrytothehotcherryjuice, stirring constantlywithawhisk.Bringthemixturebacktoa boilandcook,stirringconstantly,untilclear, about1 minute. 6. Foldinthecherriesandlemonjuice.Allowthefill­ ingtocoolcompletely. 7. Scale2lb12oz/1.25kgofthefillingintoeachpie shell,topwithasecondpieceofpiedough,andseal theedges. Pricksomeholesinthetopofthepieshell andbrushwiththeeggwash. 8. Bakeonsheetpansina450°F/232°Covenuntilthe topofthepieisgoldenbrownandyoucanseethe fillingbubblinginside,about40minutes. 9 . Servew armoratroomtemperature.

1126

Pecan Pie

BA K I N G A N D P A S T R Y

6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter

1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­

tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate thelinedpans. 2 . Scale4oz/113gofthepecansforeachpieandspread theminanevenlayerinthebottomofeachunbaked piecrust. 3. Placethesugarandflourinalargestainless-steel bowlandwhisktocombine.Addthecornsyrupand blend. 4 .A ddtheeggs, salt,andvanillaandstiruntilfully combined.Blendinthebutter. 5. Scale1lb12oz/794gofthem ixtureintoeachpre­ paredpieshell. 6. Bakeonsheetpansina400°F/204°Covenuntilthe fillinghassetandthecrustisagoldenbrown,about 40minutes. 7. Letcoolcom pletelybeforeserving. C ranberry-Pecan Pie: S pread2 oz/57gcranberries in an even layer in the bottom o f each unbaked pie crust before adding the pecans and fillin g as above.

Makes5pies(gin/23cm)

Pumpkin Pie

Makes5pies(gin/23cm)

B lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)

3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)

2 lb /9 0 7 g water

5 lb /2.27 kg pumpkin puree

2 lb /9 0 7 g sugar

1 lb 2 o z /5 1 0 g s u g a r

'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt

5 o z/1 4 2 g dark brown sugar

10 o z /2 8 4 g lemon juice

'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt

1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest

2V2 ts p /5 g ground cinnamon

6 o z/1 7 0 g cornstarch

2'Ats p /5 g ground ginger

8 o z/2 2 7 g egg yolks

2 V2 ts p /5

4 o z/1 1 3 g butter

VAts p /2 .5 0 g ground cloves

Italian or Swiss Meringue (page 1024), as needed

1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g milk

1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­

tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie.Rollthedough Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate thelinedpans. 2 . Blindbakethepieshellsuntilfullycooked(seepage 1124). Letcoolcompletely. 3. Com bine1V2qt/1.44Lofthewaterand1lb/454g ofthesugarwiththesalt, lemonjuice, andzestina saucepanandbringtoaboil. 4 . Com binetheremainingsugarandthecornstarch andmixthoroughly.Combinetheeggyolkswiththe remainingwaterandmixthoroughly.Combinethe twomixturesandblendwell. 5.W henthelemonmixturecomestoaboil, temperin theeggyolkmixture. 6. Returnthemixturetoaboil. Boilfor1minute, stir­ ringconstantly.Stirinthebutter. 7. Scale1lb8oz/68ogintoeachprebakedpieshell. Refrigerateovernightbeforetoppingwithmeringue andbrowning.Themeringuemaybebrownedusing eitherthebroileroratorch.

g ground nutmeg

1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g evaporated milk 15 eggs

1 . Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­

tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate thelinedpans. 2 . Com binethepumpkin,sugars,salt,cinnamon,gin­ ger,nutmeg,andclovesandmixuntilsmooth.Mix togetherthemilk,evaporatedmilk,andeggs.Com­ binewiththepumpkinmixture. 3. Blindbakethepieshellsuntilpartiallycooked(see page1124). 4 . Scale1lb14oz/851g°fthepum pkinmixtureinto eachprebaked9-in/23-cmpieshell. 5. Bakeonsheetpansina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthe fillingissetandthefillingandcrustaregolden brownontop,about50minutes.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes

Lemon Meringue Pie

1127

Frangipane Filling

Makes3dozentartlets(3in/8cm)

Poached Pears

Makes12poachedpears

8 o z/2 2 7 g almond paste

12 small pears

l'/4 o z /B 5 g sugar

POACHINGLIQUID

2 eggs

1 lb /4 5 4 g red or white wine

4 o z/1 1 3 g butter

8 o z/2 2 7 g water

l '/2 o z/4 3 g cake flour

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar

1. Beatthealm ondpasteandsugarwiththepaddlein

anelectricmixeronlowspeedtobreakupthepaste. Add1eggandbeatonmediumspeeduntilthereare nolumps.Addthebutterandcreamwell. 2 . Beatintherem ainingegg. 3 .A ddtheflourandmixjustuntilcombined. 4 . Useasafillingfortartshells.

Pear Frangipane Tartlets Makes1dozentartlets 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086) 9 o z/2 5 5 g Frangipane Filling (recipe precedes)

6 cloves (optional) 1 cinnamon stick (optional)

1. Peelthepears.Theym aybeleftwholewiththestem

intact,orhalvedandcored. 2 . Com bineallthepoachingingredientsinasaucepan andbringtoasimmer,stirringtodissolvethesugar. 3. Placethepearsinthepoachingliquidandsim mer untiltheyaretender.Letthepearscoolinthepoach­ ingliquid,drain,anduseasdesired.

Hard Ganache Makes6V0I2.J2kg 4 lb /2.72 kg dark chocolate, finely chopped 2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream

12 Poached Pears (recipe follows), halved Apricot Glaze (page 1130), warm, as needed 3 o z/8 5 g sliced almonds, toasted and chopped

1. RolloutthedoughtoathicknessofVsin/3m m-

Usinga4%-in/n-cmcutter,cut12roundsfromthe dough.Placetheroundsin3-in/8-cmtartringson asheetpan.Dockthebottomsofthetartletshells withapastrydockerorthetinesofafork. 2 .U singapastrybagfittedwithano.5plainpastry tip,pipe%oz/21gofthefrangipanefillingintoeach shell,fillingthemhalfway. 3. Slicethepearsandfanthemontopofthefrangipane. 4 . Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntiltheshellsandfillingare goldenbrown,about45minutes. 5. Coolthetartletstoroomtem perature. 6. Brushthetartletswiththeglaze.Arrangeathinbor­ derofalmondsaroundtheedgeofeachtartlet. Serve. 1128

BAKING AND PASTRY

1. Placethechocolateinastainless-steelbow l. 2 . Bringthecreamjusttoasim mer. Pourthehot

creamoverthechocolateandallowittostandfor1 minute. 3. Stiruntilthechocolateisthoroughlym elted. 4 . Theganachecanbeusedim mediately,oritcanbe coveredandrefrigerated,thenrewarmed.

Classic Caramel Sauce

Makes32fl 02/960mL

Makes32fl 02/960mL

10 o z/2 8 4 g sugar

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream

1 lb /4 5 4 g water

13 o z/3 6 9 g sugar

4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g light corn syrup

10 o z /2 8 4 g glucose

4 o z/1 1 3 g cocoa powder, sifted

2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft

1 lb /4 5 4 g bittersw eet chocolate, melted

1. Com binethesugar,water,andsyrupinaheavy-

bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilovermediumhighheat. Removefromtheheat. 2 . Placethecocoainabow landaddenoughofthehot sugarsyruptomakeapaste,stirringuntilsmooth. Graduallyaddtheremainingsyrupandmixuntil fullyincorporated. 3.A ddthechocolateandblenduntilfullyincorporated. 4 . Strainthesaucethroughafine-m eshsieve. 5 Servew armorchilled. .

1. Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil

overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat tokeepwarm. 2 . Prepareanicew aterbath. 3. Com binethesugarandsyrupinaheavy-bottomed saucepanandslowlycookovermediumheat,stir­ ringconstantly,untilallthesugarhasdissolved.Stop stirringandcontinuecookingtoagoldencaramel. Removefromtheheatandshockthesaucepaninthe icewaterbathtostopthecooking. 4 . Rem ovethesaucepanfromthebathandstirinthe butter. Carefullystirinthehotcream,mixinguntil fullyblended. 5. Servew armorchilled.

Sabayon

Makes32fl oz/g6omL

Raspberry Coulis

18 egg yolks

Makes32fl 02/960m i

12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar 12 o z/3 4 0 g white wine

2 lb /9 0 7 g fresh or frozen raspberries

1. Com binetheeggyolks,sugar,andwineinamixer

bowlandwhisktogetheruntilthoroughlyblended. Placethebowloverapotofsimmeringwaterand heat,whiskingconstantly,untilthemixtureisthick­ enedandveryfoamyandhasreachedi8o°F/82°C. 2 . Transferthebow ltotheelectricmixerfittedwith thewirewhipandwhiponmediumspeeduntilcool. 3. Transferthesabayontoacontainerandcoveritw ith plasticwrapplaceddirectlyagainstthesurfaceto preventaskinfromforming.Servewarmoratroom temperature. NOTE: If desired, whip 2 4 f I oz/720 mL heavy cream to

tilling, frosting, and dessert sauce recipes

Chocolate Sauce

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar, or as needed 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed

1 . Com binetheraspberries, 8oz/227gsugar,and2

tbsp/30mLlemonjuiceinasaucepanovermedium heat. Simmer, stirring,untilthesugarhasdissolved, about10minutes. 2.. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m eshsieve. 3.A ddadditionalsugarand/orlemonjuice, ifnecessary. NOTE: An equal amount o f another fruit, such as strawberries or chopped mangos, can be substituted for the raspberries.

medium peaks and fo ld it into cooled sabayon.

Z abaglione: S ubstitute Marsala fo r the white wine.

chapter 35 » F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S

1129

Apricot Glaze M akes 1 lb 91/2 oz/723 g

Apple Butter M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL

9 o z /2 5 5 g apricot jam

7 lb /3.18 kg apples

9 o z /2 5 5 g corn syrup

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g apple cider

6 o z/1 7 0 g water

1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar

3 tb s p /4 5 mL liquor, such as rum or brandy

1 tb sp /6 g ground cardamom

1. Com binealltheingredientsinasaucepan,bringtoa

boil, andstiruntilsmooth. 2 . Usetheglazew hileitisstillwarm,applyingittothe itemswithapastrybrush.

Dried Cherry Sauce M akes 1 lb 10 oz/737 g 3 o z/8 5 g sugar 1 3 o z /3 6 9 g re d w in e 6 o z/1 7 0 g water

2 ts p /4 g ground cinnamon 1 ts p /3 g grated lemon zest '/■ ttsp /l g salt

1 . Peel, core,andslicetheapples. Com binethemwith

theciderinalargeheavy-bottomedsaucepan,cover, andbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntiltheapplesarea softpulp,about30minutes. 2 .Passtheapplepulpthroughafoodm illintoaclean saucepan. 3. A ddthesugar,cardamom,cinnamon,zest,andsalt andsimmer, stirringfrequently,untilverythick, about2hours. 4 . Coolcom pletely,coverandstoreintherefrigerator.

2 tb sp /3 0 mL orange juice 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice 1 vanilla bean 4 o z/1 1 3 g dried cherries

V2 o z/1 4 g cornstarch

1. Com binethesugar, 12floz/360mLofthewine,the

water,orangejuice, andlemonjuiceinasaucepan. Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseedsintothepan, addthepod,andbringthemixturetoaboil. Remove fromtheheatandaddthecherries. 2 . Refrigerateovernight, covered. 3. Strainthesauce, reservingthecherries. Pourthe liquidintoasaucepanandbringtoaboil. 4.M eanwhile,makeaslurrywiththecornstarchand theremaining2tbsp/30mLwine. Graduallywhisk theslurryintothesauceandbringbacktoaboil, whiskinguntilthesaucethickensenoughtocoatthe backofaspoon. 5.Allowthesaucetocooltoroomtem perature. 6. Addthereservedcherriesandserveatonce.

1130

B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y

Fruit Salsa Makes 2 lb 2 oz /g 6 4 g

5 o z/1 4 2 g papaya, cut into small dice 5 o z/1 4 2 g mango, cut into small dice 5 o z/1 4 2 g honeydew melon, cut into small dice 5 o z/1 4 2 g strawberries, cut into small dice 2 tb s p /3 0 mL passion fru it juice 1 tb sp /3 g finely chopped mint 3 f I o z/9 0 mL am aretto liqueur 8 o z/2 2 7 g orange juice 3 o z/8 5 g sugar

1. Com binethepapaya,mango,melonstrawberries,

passionfruitjuice,andmint. Setasidetomacerate. 2 . Com binetheamaretto,orangejuice, andsugarand bringtoaboil. Boiluntilreducedbyhalf.Gently blendthereducedliquidintothefruit. 3. Refrigerateuntilneeded.

desserts When designing a plated dessert, the chef must consider contrasting and complementing flavors and textures, the color and style, customer base, specific event or menu needs, and the environment for preparation and service. Even with all of this in mind, it is importantto realize that a dessert does not have to be complex to be flavorful and memorable. There are a number of simple and easy ways to dress up a basic dessert. Some simple examples are the addition of a warm sauce, a frozen element such as ice cream, or a simple garnish such as a tuile, candied nuts, or slices of fruit.

A

A

trends in plated desserts When designing a d e s s e rt menu, it is e sse n tia l to con­

a t a banquet or c a te rin g event, because the y are basic

sid e r c u rre n t tre n d s to keep you r menu fre s h and in te r­

and sim p le to prepare. Chefs should also consider trend s being im plem ented

esting. Am ong cu rre n t tre n d s is a re tu rn to m ore ru s tic s ty le de sse rts such as g a le tte s and " c o m fo rt fo o d " like

in th e ir menus and tra n s la te th o se concepts in to d e sse rt

pies and cobblers. The appeal o f the se d e sse rts lies in

item s. As a menu changes seasonally o r w ith tre n d s, so

th e ir s im p lic ity o f fla vo r, style , and p re se n ta tio n . These

should th e d e s s e rt menu.

d e sse rts are also ideal fo r p ro d u c tio n in a re s ta u ra n t or

contrast: flavor, taste, texture, temperature, and eye appeal The p a s try c o n tra s t ta b le th a t fo llo w s is a visual guide

fillin g th a t s t ill re ta in s a litt le ta rtn e s s fro m th e apples,

to un de rsta n d in g th e basic c h a ra c te ris tic s th a t the

w h ile the ice cream w ill lend its cream y, s o ft te x tu re .

ch e f can use in th e c re a tio n o f a p la te d de sse rt. When

The pie should be served w arm to b ring o u t its fla v o rs

co n ce p tu a lizin g de sserts, th in k a b o u t in c o rp o ra tin g a

and arom as, as w e ll as to pro vid e te m p e ra tu re c o n tra s t

num ber o f c o n tra s tin g c h a ra c te ris tic s by using d iff e r ­

w ith th e cold ice cream. C o n tra s tin g e lem e nts in a pla te d d e sse rt are divided

e n t com ponents, b u t never add com p on ents ju s t to have a n o th e r co n tra st. The num ber o f com p on ents should

am ong fla v o r and arom a, ta s te , te x tu re , te m p e ra tu re ,

make sense f o r th e d e ssert.

and eye appeal. When using th e cha rt, keep a basic

Keep th e idea o f c o n tra s t in m ind when adding new

u n d e rsta n d in g o f cu ltu re and regional a v a ila b ility o f in ­

de sse rts to a cu rre n t menu o r designing a new menu. A

g re d ie n ts to ensure th e m o st succe ssful com binations.

balanced menu should con tain w arm and cold, sw e e t and

F lavor and ta s te co m b in a tio n s are the m o st in te rre la te d

ta rt, and rich and lean de sserts.

com p on ents on th is cha rt. Depending on your selectio n

C om bining c o n tra s tin g elem e nts on one d e sse rt

o f in g re d ie n ts, one w ill n a tu ra lly fo llo w th e other. Also

p la te w ill keep th e pa la te in te re s te d and e xcite d. The

keep in m ind th a t s w eetness w ill vary only in in te n sity,

classic apple pie a la m ode is a p e rfe c t exam ple. Think

b u t w ill be a com p on ent o f all de sse rts to some degree. The o b je c t o f th e te x tu ra l com p on ent is to have

o f how it re la te s to th e c o n tra s t ta b le : An exce ptio na l apple pie w ill have a crisp, fla k y c ru s t and perhaps a

a balance o f m o u th fe e l— to o much crunch is not

Contrast Table SEASONALITY

FLAVOR AND AROMA

TASTE

TEXTURE

TEMPERATURE

PRESENTATION

FALL

C hocolate

S w e et

Crunchy

Frozen

Shape

SPRING

Vanilla

S a lty

Crisp

C hilled

Volum e

SUM M ER

F ru it

B itte r

B r ittle

Cool

C olor

W INTER

Spice

A cid ic

Chewy

Room te m p e ra tu re

V isual te x tu re

N ut

Umami

Cream y

W arm

Liqu id

H ot

Icy Tender Cakey

1132

B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y

o f th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e com p on ents on any p la te or

P re s e n ta tio n does n o t mean th e p la te needs to be in tric a te ly pre sen te d. Today, one o f th e b ig g e st tre n d s

menu. W hile each p la te does n o t ne cessa rily need con­

is to w a rd m inim alism : p re s e n tin g a u th e n tic, natural f la ­

tra s ts o f te m p e ra tu re , th e ove rall menu should p re se n t

vo rs in as fre s h and sim p le a m anner as possible.

th e fu ll spe ctru m .

restaurant desserts Use th e c o n tra s t ta b le to help cre a te a re s ta u ra n t menu.

o f th e w o rk area, as w e ll as its lo ca tio n in re la tio n to

It w ilt help keep every p la te fre sh , d iffe re n t, and original.

th e ovens, re frig e ra to rs , and fre e ze rs, d e te rm in e how

Rem em ber th a t som e d e sse rts w ill n o t be p ra c tic a l be­

ce rta in jo b s are accom plished. Keep o fte n -u s e d item s

cause o f you r p a rtic u la r kitch e n setup.

w ith in easy reach and easy to see. Keep e ffic ie n t w o rk ­

A re s ta u ra n t menu should change w ith every season; however, you w ill alw ays have a fe w ite m s th a t rem ain

flo w in m ind, t o o — as on th e line in th e kitchen, plates should move in a single d ire c tio n .

co n sta n t, w ith only th e garnish changing. M a in ta in in g

Keep sauces in p la s tic squeeze b o ttle s or a fun nel

se a so n a lity w ith you r menu w ill keep b e tte r co sts as

dropper. These give you m ore c o n tro l over the am ount

w ell as b e tte r fla v o rs . It w ill also make m a rke tin g easier,

and lo ca tio n o f th e sauce on th e p la te or d e sse rt and

as th e fre s h e s t ite m s w ill have the b e st fla v o rs and w ill

make it easy to s to re th e sauces a t th e s ta tio n .

appeal m ore to th e custo m e rs. Use specials to h ig h lig h t in g re d ie n ts a t th e ir seasonal peak. A good b a ro m e te r

plated desserts

n e cessa rily a good th in g . It is also im p o rta n t to be aw are

To keep th e s ta tio n clean and san itary, have a con­ ta in e r o f s a n itiz in g s o lu tio n available, as w e ll as clean

fo r th e success o f a d e s s e rt is how w e ll it sells, b u t also

clo th s o r pa pe r to w e ls and h o t w a te r to w ipe pla te s be­

keep in m ind th a t ite m s th a t d o n't sell w e ll may have a

fo re th e y leave th e s ta tio n .

po or place m ent o r w o rd in g on th e menu; i f th o se are co rre cte d , an ite m th a t used to be p ro b le m a tic could becom e one o f th e b e s t sellers. A key in g re d ie n t to th e success o f any d e s s e rt menu is th e p re se rvice m ee ting . You have to make th e w a ite rs aw are o f you r fo o d . They should hear ab o u t it and ta s te it to becom e excite d ab o u t it. O fte n ite m s th a t sell w ell are fa v o rite s o f th e w a it s ta ff.

PLATING FROZEN DESSERTS Frozen d e sse rts are an im p o rta n t com ponent o f any d e s s e rt menu. W hile fro z e n de sse rts are com m only used as c o m p le m e n ta ry com p on ents o f variou s pla te d des­ se rts, th e y can also serve as th e main com ponent. They can be produced in many and va ried fla v o rs , are suita ble fo r use w ith d iffe re n t ty p e s o f con tain ers, such as tu ile

DESSERT STATION MISE EN PLACE

cookies o r m olded cho colate cups, and can be m olded in any v a rie ty o f fo rm s . They w o rk w e ll in an endless num­

When s e ttin g up a d e s s e rt s ta tio n , w h e th e r f o r a large

ber o f com b in ation s. O f course, succe ssful pla te d frozen

banq ue t kitch e n o r a sm all re s ta u ra n t, th e re are several

d e sse rts re ly on co n ve n ie n tly lo ca te d fre e z e r space fo r

im p o rta n t co n sid e ra tio n s. The size and co n fig u ra tio n

sto ra g e and service.

plated desserts at banquets In m o s t cases, any d e s s e rt th a t can be pre pa red

re s tric tio n s may im m e d ia te ly becom e ap pa rent. Lack

and served f o r te n can also be served f o r a hundred.

o f e q u ip m e n t (n o t enough o f a p a rtic u la r m old, f o r ex­

Flowever, f o r la rg e r-vo lu m e p la tin g , th e ch e f m ust con­

am ple) m ig h t fo rc e you to change th e shape o r look o f a

sid e r eq uipm ent, storag e, tim in g o f service, and labor. When planning a d e s s e rt f o r a banq ue t menu, con sid er th e general con cep t o f th e de ssert. C e rta in

de sse rt. T im in g can so m e tim e s be a re s tric tiv e elem ent f o r p re p a ra tio n s, and in som e cases you may w a n t to re fo rm u la te th e d e s s e rt to increase its sh e lf life.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

1133

Makes12servings

plated dessert recipes

Warm Date Spice Cake with Butterscotch Sauce, and Cinnamon Ice Cream

Cinnamon Ice Cream

Makes12servings 8 o z/2 2 7 g milk 8 o z/2 2 7 g heavy cream '/2 o z /1 4 g glucose '/♦ tsp /1 g salt 1 cinnamon stick

COMPONENTS

V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon

Date Spice Cake (page 1137)

3V2 o z /9 9 g sugar

Caramelized Apples (page 1138)

8 egg yolks

Butterscotch Sauce (page 1137) Orange-Scented Creme Chantilly (page 1138) Phyllo Tubes (page 1137) Cinnamon Ice Cream (recipe follows) Apple Chips (page 11 36 ) Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks (page 1136)

ASSEMBLY

1. Prepare12plates. 2 .W armthecakesina350°F/i77°Covenuntilheated

through,about2minutes. 3. Rew armorpreparethecaramelizedapples. 4 . Spoon2oz/57g°fthesauceintothecenterofeach plate.Placeacakeontopofthesauce. 5.Arrangefivepiecesofcaram elizedapplearound eachplate. 6. PipethecremeChantillyintothepreparedphyllo tubesandplacetwoontopofeachcake. 7. Placeascoopoficecreamonthecenterofthetubes andtopwithanapplechip.Leanachocolatecinna­ monstickagainstthedessert.

1. Inam ediumsaucepan,combinethemilk,cream,

glucose, salt,cinnamonstick,groundcinnamon,and about1V2oz/43g°fthesugar. Bringtoaboilover mediumheat. Removefromtheheat,cover,andlet steepfor5minutes. 2 . Inam ediumbowl,mixtheremainingsugarwiththe eggyolksuntilwellcombined. 3. Graduallypourhalfofthem ilkmixtureintotheegg yolkmixture,whiskingconstantly. 4 . Returnallingredientstothesaucepanandcontinue tocook,stirringconstantly,overmediumheatuntil themixturethickenstonappeconsistency. 5. Strainthem ixturethroughafine-meshstrainerinto abain-marie. Chillinanicewaterbathuntiltheice creambaseisbelow40°F/4°C. 6. Letthebaserest,refrigerated,overnight. 7. Churninanicecreamm akeraccordingtomanufac­ turer’sinstructions. 8. Storetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursorover­ night.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

1135

The finished apple chips w ill be fu lly dehydrated, crisp, and

Tempered chocolate is form ed to mimic a cinnamon stick.

easy to remove from the Silpat.

Apple Chips M akes 12 servings 2 apples, peeled, sliced '/i6 in /1.50 mm thick

M akes 12 servings

Lemon juice, as needed

V2 ts p /2.50 mL vegetable oil

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar

8 o z/2 2 7 g melted milk chocolate

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water

Ground cinnamon, as needed to coat

1 . Spreadtheslicedapplesonasheetpanandbrush

themwithlemonjuice. 2 . Inam ediumpot,bringthesugarandwatertoasim­ merovermediumheat. Simmeruntilthesugaris dissolved. 3. H eatthesyrupuntilitregistersi8o°F/82°Conan instant-readthermometer.Addtheappleslicesand poachuntilsoft, about30seconds. 4 . Useaspidertorem ovetheapplesfromthesyrup andtransferthemtosheetpanlinedwithaSilpat. Arrangetheslicesinasinglelayer. 5. Drytheapplesinai8o°F/82°Covenovernight. Store inanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice. NOTE: For faster drying, the chips can also be dried in a 200°F/93°C oven fo r 1 t o 2 hours.

1136

Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks

B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y

1. Stirtheoilintothem eltedchocolateuntilfully

combined. 2 .H eatasheetpanina200°F/93°Covenuntilslightly warm,about30seconds. 3. Spreadthechocolateontothebackofthesheetpanin athin,evenlayer. 4 . Placethesheetpaninthefreezerfor30m inutes,then intherefrigeratorfor15minutes. 5. Rem ovethepanfromtherefrigerator,andletitsitat roomtemperatureuntilthechocolatebecomespliable. 6. Makecinnamonstickshapesusingabenchknife: Holdthebenchknifeata45-degreeangleandrollthe chocolatetothemiddleofthesheetpan.Repeatthis motionacrossthechocolate,thenturnthesheetpan aroundandrepeatintheoppositedirectionsothatthe twotubeswillmeetinthecentertofinishthecinna­ monstickshape. 7. Rollthefinishedsticksingroundcinnam ontocoat.Re­ serveinanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice.

Phyllo Tubes

M akes 12 servings

M akes 12 servings

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pitted dates, finely diced

2 sheets phyllo dough

2 tb s p /3 0 m L brandy

M elted butter, as needed

1VAo z/3 1 9 g butter 1 lb I V 2 o z /4 9 6 g dark brown sugar 3/tts p /2 .5 0 g s a lt 7 eggs

1. Brushonesheetofphyllow ithmeltedbutter,and

gentlyplacetheotherpieceofphylloontop.Brush thesurfaceofthetopsheetwithbutter. 2 . Cutthephyllointostrips2Vi by V in/6by17cm . W rapeachphyllostriparoundasmallcannolitube. 3. Bakethephyllotubesina375°F/i9i°Covenuntil goldenbrown,4to6minutes. Coolcompletely.Re­ servethetubesinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded forservice. 6

Vi o z/1 4 g vanilla extract

&Ao z/1 7 7 g sour cream 1 lb VAo z/4 9 6 g all-purpose flour VAts p /5.25 g baking powder '/2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground allspice

1. Inasm allbowl,tossthedateswiththebrandy.Set

aside. 2 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe paddle,creamthebutter,brownsugar,andsaltuntil lightandfluffy,4to5minutes. 3.A ddtheeggsgradually,scrapingdownthebowlwell aftereachadditiontomakesurethebatterishomo­ geneous.Addthevanillaandsourcreamandmix untilfullyincorporated. 4 . Gentlyaddtheflour,bakingpow der,cinnamon,and allspice,mixingjustuntilincorporated. 5. Rem ovethebowlfromthemixerandusearubber spatulatogentlyfoldthedatesintothebatter. 6. Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper. Pour thebatterintothepreparedpanandspreaditevenly across. Bakeina325°F/i62°Covenuntillightly browned,25to30minutes. Letcoolcompletely. 7. Cutthecakeusinga3-in/8-cmring.Setaside.The cakemaybestoredinanairtightcontaineratroom temperature,orwrappedandfrozenforlateruse.

2

plated dessert recipes

Date Spice Cake

Butterscotch Sauce M akes 12 servings 12 o z/3 4 0 g dark brown sugar 8 o z/2 2 7 g butter 6 o z/1 7 0 g heavy cream

2 V 2 o z/7 1 g corn syrup 1 ts p /3 g salt

'A o z/7 g vanilla extract

1. Inam ediumsaucepot,combinethebrownsugar,

butter, cream,cornsyrup,andsalt. Bringthemix­ turetoasimmerovermediumheat. 2 . Continuesim mering,stirringoccasionally,untilthe saucethickensslightly,2to4minutes. 3. Rem ovefromtheheatandstirinthevanilla.Letcool andreserverefrigerateduntilneededforservice.

Chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

1137

Orange-Scented Creme Chantilly

Caramelized Apples M akes 12 servings

M akes 12 servings

1 o z/2 8 g butter

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream

14 apples, peeled, tourneed

2 tb sp /1 4 g orange zest

3 o z /8 5 g sugar

1 o z/2 8 g confectioners' sugar

Pinch salt 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Calvados

Inthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire whip,whipthecreamandzestonmedium-high speeduntilthickened. Graduallyaddthesugarandcontinuetowhipuntil thecreamholdssoftpeaks. Transferthecreamtoanairtightcontainerorpiping bagandreserve,refrigerated,untilneededforservice.

1.M eltthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium

heat.Addtheapplesandsauteuntiltheybeginto becometender, 3to4minutes. 2 .A ddthesugarandsaltandincreasetheheattohigh. Continuetocookuntilthesugarcaramelizes,5to6 minutesmore. 3. Deglazethepanw iththeCalvados.Removethe applesfromtheheat. Letcoolcompletelybefore storingintherefrigeratorinanairtightcontainer. NOTE: The apples must be rewarmed prior to serving, or they can be made a la minute.

BAKING AND PASTRY

M akes 12 servings

plated dessert recipes

Blackberry and P o rtPoached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies

Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears M akes 12 servings

6 Forelle pears 10 o z/2 8 4 g water 10 o z/2 8 4 g Ruby port 10 o z/2 8 4 g blackberry puree

COMPONENTS Ricotta Cream (page 1140) Sable Cookies (page 1140) Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears (recipe follows)

1 o z/2 8 g lemon juice lt b s p / 9 g lemon zest

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped Vi cinnamon stick

ASSEMBLY

1. Prepare12plates. 2 . Scoopaquenelleofthecreamatadiagonalontothe

edgeofeachplate. 3. Placeacookieatanangleontheoppositeendof eachplate. 4 . Thinlyslicethepearsw ithaparingknife,leaving themattachedatthestemsothattheycanbefanned out. 5. Spoonsom eofthepoachingliquidontoeachplate, andtopwithapearhalf.

2 tb s p /1 8 g cornstarch

1. Peelthepearsandcutinhalflengthw ise. Remove

thecorewithamelonbailer. 2 .Com binethewater,port,blackberrypuree,lemon juiceandzest,sugar,vanillabeanandseeds,andcin­ namonstickinalargesaucepanovermediumheat andplacethepearsintotheliquid. 3. Coverw ithparchmentpaper,weighthepearsdown iftheyfloat,andkeeptheliquidjustbelowasimmer untilthepearsaretender,30to40minutes. 4 . Coolthepearsinthepoachingliquid,andstorein thepoachingliquid,refrigerated,forupto3days. 5. Straintheliquidintoasaucepanandbringtoasim ­ merovermediumheat. Putthecornstarchinasmall bowlandaddjustenoughwatertomakeathin, runnypaste. Stirringconstantly,addsomeofthehot liquidtothestarchmixturetotemperit. 6. Beginstirringtheliquidinthepotandaddthetem­ peredslurry.Stirgentlyandsimmeruntilitreaches alightnappeconsistency.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

1139

Sable Cookies

Ricotta Cream

M akes 12 servings

M akes 12 servings

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter

8 o z/2 2 7 g ricotta cheese

91/2 o z/2 69 g confectioners' sugar

8 o z/2 2 7 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt

4 o z/1 1 3 g cream cheese

V 2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract

1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract

2 3/ t o z/7 8 g egg yolks

2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r

1 lb l l o z / 7 6 5 g all-purpose flour

l t s p / 3 g lemon zest

Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed

Pinch salt

Sanding sugar, as needed

8 o z/2 2 7 mL heavy cream

1. Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe

paddle,creamthebutter,sugar,salt,andvanillaon mediumspeedfor5minutes. 2 .Graduallyaddtheeggyolks, scrapingw ellaftereach addition. 3.A ddtheflourandmixonlowspeeduntilitisjust combined. 4 . Onalightlyflouredsurface,rollthedoughouttoV2 in/icmthick.Transfertoaparchment-linedsheet panandchilluntilfirm. 5. Eggw ashthecookiesandsprinklelightlywithsand­ ingsugar. 6. Bakethecookiesina375°F/i9i°Covenuntiljustset, 20to25minutes. 7. Letthecookiescoolslightly,thenuseaserrated knifetocutintorectangles1by3in/3by8cm. 8. Returnthecutcookiestothebakingsheetandbake untillightlygolden,5to10minutesmore.Allowthe cookiestocoolcompletelyandstoreinanairtight containeratroomtemperatureuntilneeded.

1140

BAKING AND PASTRY

l '/2 sheets gelatin

1.M ixthericotta,pastrycream,creamcheese,vanilla,

sugar,zest,andsaltuntilsmooth. 2 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Reserve. 3. Bloomthegelatinintepidw aterfor3to5minutes. Removethegelatinsheetsfromthewaterand squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Combinethegelatin with4oz/113gofthecheesemixture. 4 .H eatthegelatin-cheesemixtureinadoubleboiler oversimmeringwateruntilitregisters130°F/54°C onaninstant-readthermometer. Removefromthe heatandaddtheremainingcheesemixturetocool slightly. 5. Gentlyfoldinthecream . Reservethemixturein anairtightcontainer, refrigerated,untilneededfor service.

M akes 12 servings

plated dessert recipes

Lemon Souffle Tart w ith Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote

Basil Ice Cream M akes 2V2 qts/2.40 L

BASIL PUREE 5 o z/1 4 2 g basil leaves Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed ICECREAM

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g milk COMPONENTS

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream Lemon Curd (page 1145) l ' / 2 o z / 4 3 g glucose Tartlet Shells (page 1144) Pinch salt Fresh blueberries 1 0 '/2 o z /2 9 8 g sugar Common Meringue (page 1024)

2 2 egg yolks Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting

6 o z /1 7 0 g Basil Puree (above) Basil Sauce (page 1145)

1.Tom akethebasilpuree,bringasmallpotofwater

Blueberry Compote (page 1145) Basil Ice Cream (recipe follows) Tuiles (page 11 44 )

ASSEMBLY

1. Prepare12plates. 2.. Spread oz/7glem oncurdinthebaseofeachtart V4

shell. Placeafewblueberriesontop. 3. Foreachtart, m akeacommonmeringuewith oz/14geggwhitesand oz/14gsugar.Gentlyfoldit intotheremaininglemoncurdandmoundthemix­ tureinthetartshells. 4 . Dustthetopofeachtartw ithconfectioners’sugar. Bakeina400°F/204°Covenuntillightlygoldenand puffed,about8minutes. 5. Letthetartscoolfor1m inutebeforeremovingthem fromthepan. 6. Spoonbasilsauceinaringaroundtheedgeofeach plate. Placeatartinthecenterofeachplate. Spoon someblueberrycompoteonthesideandaddascoop ofthebasilicecream.Finisheachplatewithatuile. V2

V2

toaboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewater bath. 2 .Blanchthebasilintheboilingw aterfor20sec­ onds. Shockinanicewaterbath,drain,and squeezetoremoveexcesswater. 3.Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasil leaveswithenoughsimplesyruptomakethemix­ turesmooth. 4 .Reserve,covered,untilyouarereadytom akethe icecream. 5.Tom aketheicecream,combinethemilk,cream, glucose,salt,and5Vioz/155gofthesugarinamedi­ umsaucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat. 6. Inamediumbowl,combinetheremainingsugar withtheeggyolks,mixinguntilfullycombined. 7.W henthemilkmixturereachesasimmer, slowly poursomeintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyto tempertheyolkmixture. 8. Returnalloftheingredientstothesaucepanand continuetocookovermediumheat,stirringcon­ stantly,untilthemixturethickenstoanappe consistency. 9 .Straintheicecreambasethroughafine-m esh strainer,andplaceimmediatelyintoanicewa­ terbath.Chilluntiltheicecreambaseisbelow 40°F/4°C.

continued

c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DES SE R TS

1 143

10 .Stirinthebasilpureejustbeforechurning.Churn

inanicecreammakeraccordingtothemanufac­ turer’sinstructions. 11 .Placetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursor overnight.

NOTE: This puree must be made the same day as the ice cream w ill be churned so that it maintains its flavor and

Tuiles M akes 2 lb 4 0 z h .0 2 kg batter 93/ t o z/2 7 6 g confectioners' sugar 9 o z/2 5 5 g all-purpose flour Pinch salt

8 o z/2 2 7 g butter, soft 4!/t o z/1 2 0 g egg whites, room temperature

color. 5 3/t o z / 1 6 3 g honey

V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract

Tartlet Shells M akes 12 tart shells 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086) Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed

1. Onaflouredsurface, rolloutthedoughtoVsin/3

mmthick.Cutthedoughinto4-in/io-cmrounds. 2.. Placetw elve3-in/8-cmtartpansonaparchmentlinedbakingsheet. Gentlypressthedoughintothe tartpans.Refrigerateuntilthedoughisfirm. 3. Lineeachshellw ithroundsofparchmentandfill withpieweights. 4 . Bakethetartshellsina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthe shellsbegintoset, 10to15minutes. 5. Rem ovetheweightsandparchmentfromtheshells andbrushlightlywitheggwash.Continuetobake untilgolden,about10minutesmore. 6. Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature untilneededforservice.

1. Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad­

dle,combinethesugar,flour,andsalt. 2 .A ddthebutterandapproximatelyone-quarterof theeggwhitesandmixonlowspeeduntilasmooth, thickpasteforms. 3.A ddthehoneyandmixuntilcombined.Gradually addtheremainingeggwhitesandthevanilla,mixing justtocombine. 4 . Coverthebatterinanairtightcontainerandreserve, refrigerated,untilreadytobake. 5. Preheattheovento375cF/i9i°C.Spreadthebatter intostripsViby4in/iby10cmindiameterona sheetpanandbakeuntilgolden,about15minutes. Allowtocoolforamomentonthepan,thenremove thecookiesandallowtocoolcompletelyonracks. 6. Storeatroomtemperatureinanairtightcontainer. NOTES: It is im portant that the b u tte r and egg whites be at room temperature. If they are too cold, the batter will separate. This b a tte r can be made up to a week in advance. It can be warmed in the microwave, if necessary, to bring it back to spreadable consistency.

1144

BAKING AND PASTRY

Blueberry Compote

Makes12servings

Makes12servings

2 bunches basil, leaves only

1 lb /4 5 4 g blueberries

Corn syrup, as needed

1 tb sp /9 g lemon zest

1. Bringasm allpotofwatertoaboilovermedium

heat. Prepareanicewaterbath. 2 . Blanchthebasilintheboilingw aterfor20seconds. Shockintheicewaterbath,drain,andsqueezeto removeexcesswater. 3. Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasilleaves withenoughcornsyruptomakeasmoothsauce. Adjusttheconsistencywithcornsyrupasnecessary. 4 . Reserve, covered,untilneededforservice. Lemon Curd

Makes12servings 8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs 9 o z /2 5 5 g s u g a r

2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice Sugar, as needed

1. Inasm allsaucepan,combine12oz/340gofthe

blueberrieswiththelemonzest,juice, andenough watertojustcover. 2 . Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat. Continuetocook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheber­ riesaresoft,4to5minutes. 3. Rem ovefromtheheatandstirinsugartotaste.Cool completely. 4 . Inafoodprocessororblender,pureethesauceuntil smooth.Strainthesaucethroughafine-meshstrain­ erandadjusttheconsistencywithwaterifnecessary. 5. Reserve,covered,untilneededforservice. Fold intheremaining4oz/113gblueberriesjustbefore

plated dessert recipes

Basil Sauce

12 o z/3 4 0 g butter, cut into small cubes

6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g lemon juice l t b s p /9 g lemon zest

'A o z/7 g cornstarch Pinch salt

1. Inam ediumheatproofbowl,whisktogetherthe

eggsandsugaruntilwellcombined. 2 .A ddtheremainingingredientsandplacethebowl overamediumsaucepanofsimmeringwater. 3. Continuetocook,w hiskingfrequently,untilthe mixtureisthickandregistersi85°F/85°Conan instant-readthermometer. 4 . Strainthecurdthroughafine-m eshstrainerintoa hotelpan.Coverthecurddirectlywithplasticwrap andrefrigerateuntilchilled.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

1145

Key Lime Tart M akes 12 servings COMPONENTS Creme Chantilly (recipe follows) Key Lime Tart (recipe follows) Strawberry Coulis (recipe follows)

2 . Stirinthelim ejuice. Mixuntilwellblended,butdo

notovermix. 3. Pourthefillingintothepreparedcrustandbakein 300°F/i49°Covenuntilthecustardisset,about10 minutes. 4 . Letthetartcooltoroomtem perature,thenwrap andfreezeovernight. Thefillingwillhaveatexture similartocheesecake.

Limes

ASSEMBLY

1. Prepare12plates. 2 . Evenlyspreadalayerofcrem eChantillyonthesur­

faceofthetart. Cutthetartinto12evenpieces. 3. Placeonetartsliceontoeachplateandspoonsom e strawberrycoulisontoeachplate. 4 Spoonaquenelleofcrem eChantillyontoeachslice ofthetartandtopwithatwistedwheeloffreshlime.

Graham Cracker Crust M akes g 3A OZI276 g 6 o z/1 7 0 g graham cracker crumbs 3 o z/8 5 g melted butter 3/ t o z /2 1 g sugar Pinch salt

.

Creme Chantilly M akes 16 fl oz/480 mL

1. Com bineallingredientsinamediumbowl.Pressthe

crustevenlyintoaio-in/25-cmtartpan. 2 . Bakeina325°F/i63°Covenuntilthecrusthasset andisslightlybrowned,about12minutes.Allowthe crusttocoolcompletelybeforefilling.

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream 2 o z/5 7 g confectioners' sugar

V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract

1. Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire

whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks. 2 .A ddthesugarandvanillaandcontinuetowhipuntil thecreamreachesmediumpeaks. Reserve,refriger­ ated,untilneededforservice. Key Lime Tart M akes 12 servings 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sweetened condensed milk 5 '/t o z/1 49 g eggs

2'A o z/6 6 g egg yolks 6 o z/1 7 0 g Key lime juice Graham Cracker Crust (recipe follows)

1 . Inalargebow l,combinethecondensedmilk,eggs,

andyolks.

Strawberry Coulis M akes 16 oz/454 g 1 lb /4 5 4 g strawberries 8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice

1. Com binethestrawberries,4oz/113g°fthesugar,

and1tbsp/15mLofthelemonjuiceinamedium nonreactivesaucepan.Allowthefruittomacerate for20to30minutes. 2 . Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,stir­ ringuntilthesugarhasdissolved,about10minutes. Puree. 3. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m eshstrainer.Ad­ justtheflavorwiththeremainingsugarandlemon juice. Storethecoulisinanairtightcontaineruntil neededforservice. NOTE: If desired, add a slurry made o f 2 tbsp/30 mL water and V 2oz/1 4 g cornstarch per 16 f I oz/4 80 mL o f coulis to the sauce to thicken it. Bring the coulis to a boil, gradually whisk in the slurry, and bring back to a boil. Cool com pletely before using.

1146

BAKING AND PASTRY

Key Lime Tart

plated dessert recipes

Mango and PassionPoached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet

3. Placethem ixtureoveralargepotofsimmeringwa­ terandcookuntiltender, 1V2to2hours. 4 . Rem ovefromtheheat, addthebananaslices,cover,

andrefrigeratethemixtureovernight. Cilantro Sorbet

M akes 12 servings

M akes 12 servings

COMPONENTS

SORBET SYRUP

Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple (recipe follows)

12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar

Coconut Flans (page 1150)

8 o z/2 2 7 g water

Cilantro Sorbet (recipe follows)

2 o z /5 7 g glucose

Coconut Chips (page 1150)

SORBET 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g cilantro, leaves only

ASSEMBLY

1. Prepare12bow ls. 2 . Rem ovethepineapplefromtheliquidandreserve.

Straintheliquidandadjusttheconsistencywithwa­ terifnecessary. 3. Gentlyunm oldtheflans,andplacetowardtheback ofeachbowl. 4 . Pourabout4oz/113g°fthepoachingliquidinto eachbowl,andplaceawedgeofpineappleinfront oftheflan. 5. Scoopaquenelleofsorbetontopofeachflanand topwithacoconutchip. Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple M akes 12 portions

1 pineapple 12 o z/3 4 0 g mango puree 4 o z/1 1 3 g passion fru it puree

6 o z/1 7 0 g water 3/ f oz/21 g lime juice

6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar 1 banana, sliced

1. Trimthepineappleandcutinto12w edges. 2 . Placethepineappleinalargeheatproofbow lwith

1 lb 6 V 2 o z /6 3 8 g water 6 'A o z / l l l g stabilizer I V 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g sugar 3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g lime juice

1. Inam ediumsaucepan,bringalltheingredientsfor

thesorbetsyruptoaboil. 2 . Coverthesyrupandreserve, refrigerated,untilready tomakethesorbet. 3. Tom akethesorbet,bringamediumpotofwaterto aboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewaterbath. 4 . Blanchthecilantroleavesintheboilingw aterfor 20seconds. Shockintheicewaterbathanddrain, squeezingtoremoveexcesswater. 5.W eighthecilantroleavesandaddenoughofthewa­ tertoequal22%oz/638g. 6. Pureethewaterandcilantrountilsmooth.Trans­ ferthemixturetoalargebowl.Addtheremaining waterandthe oz/517gsorbetsyrupandstirto combine. 7. Inasm allbowl,combinethestabilizer,sugar,and limejuice. Graduallyblendintothecilantromixture usinganimmersionblender. 8. Churnthesorbetinanicecreammachineaccording tomanufacturer’sinstructions. 9 . Placethesorbetinanairtightcontainerandfreeze untilfirmenoughtoscoop,8hoursorovernight. 18V4

thefruitpurees,water, limejuice, andsugar.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

1149

Coconut Chips

Coconut Flans

M akes 12 servings

M akes 12 servings

1 fresh coconut

1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar

Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed

4 o z/1 1 3 g water

Splitthecoconutinhalfbyhittingallaroundits equator. Placethetwohalvesonasheetpanandbakeina 350°F/i77°Covenuntiltender,30to40minutes. Letthecoconutcoolcompletely,thenprytheflesh loosefromtheshell.Useavegetablepeelertomake 12half-moonslicesofcoconut. Bringsomesimplesyruptoagentlesimmerover mediumheat.Addthecoconutslicesandcontinue tosimmerfor5minutes. Removefromtheheatand letthecoconutcoolinthesyrupovernight. LineasheetpanwithaSilpat. Placethecoconut ontothesheetpanandbakeat300°F/i49°Cuntil goldenbrown. Storethecoconutchipsinanairtightcontainerat roomtemperatureuntilneededforservice.

4 o z/1 1 3 g corn syrup 1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g sweetened condensed milk 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g unsweetened coconut milk 4 eggs 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract Pinch salt

1. Inam ediumpot,combinethesugarandwater.

Bringtoaboil, stirringconstantly. 2 .A ddthecornsyrupandcontinuetocook,without stirring.W ashdownthesidesofthepotoccasionally withwaterandapastrybrushtoavoidcrystallization. 3. Continuetocookuntilam ediumcaramelforms. Removefromtheheatandpourenoughintoeachof 12ramekinstocoverthebase. Reserve. 4 . Inalargebow l,whisktogetherthecondensed milk,coconutmilk,eggs,vanilla,andsaltuntilwell combined. 5. Dividethem ixtureevenlyamongthecaramel-coatedramekins. Placetheramekinsinahotelpanand fillthehotelpanwithenoughwarmwatertocome atleasthalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins. 6. Baketheflansina325°F/i63°Covenuntilthecus­ tardhasset,30to35minutes. 7. Refrigeratetheflansatleast4hoursbeforeunm old­ ingfromtheramekins. NOTE: The flan can be stored in the ramekins fo r up to 3 days before unmolding.

B A K IN G AN D PASTRY

Graham Cracker Ice Cream

M akes 12 servings

M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L

COMPONENTS

1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g m i lk

Graham Cracker Crust for S’mores (page 1152)

1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g h e a v y c r e a m

Graham Cracker Ice Cream (recipe follows)

l '/2 o z / 4 3 g g lu c o s e

Marshmallow (page 1152)

5 o z /1 4 2 g g ra h a m c ra c k e r c ru m b s

Classic Caramel Sauce (page 1153)

5V2 o z / 1 5 6

White Sauce (page 1154)

1 v a n i l la b e a n ,

Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)

2 2 e g g y o lk s

Chocolate Beignet Batter (page 1154)

5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r

Oil, as needed for deep frying Chocolate Graham Decor (page 1152) Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting

ASSEMBLY

1.Lineabakingsheetw ithparchmentandtopwith

12ringmolds. 2 .PresslAozlj gofthegrahamcrackercrustintothe bottomofeachringmold. 3.Portionthechurnedicecreamintotheringsand freezeovernight. 4 .Rem ovetheicecreamfromtheringsandwrap withmarshmallow.Keepfrozenuntilservice. 5.Prepare12plates. Decoratethecenteroftheplate withthecaramelandwhitesauces. 6. Useablowtorchtotoasttheoutsideofthemarsh­ mallow. 7.Coatthefrozentrufflesinbeignetbatterandfryin theoilat350°F/i77°Cuntilcookedthrough,3to4 minutes. Removewithaspideranddrainonpaper towels. 8. Placeoneportionofmarshmallow-wrappedice creamoneachplateontopofthesauceswiththe crustdown.Topwithapieceofchocolatedecor. 9 .Dustthebeignetsw ithconfectioners’sugarand placeoneontopofthedecoroneachplate. 10 .Crackthebeignetsopenw ithaparingknifebefore serving.

g d a rk b ro w n s u g a r

split

a n d s e e d s re m o v e d

ts p /1 g salt

plated dessert recipes

S'mores

1. Inam ediumpot,bringthemilk,heavycream,glu­

cose, crumbs,brownsugar,andvanillabeantoa simmerovermediumheat. 2 . Inam ediumbowl,whisktogethertheyolks,granu­ latedsugar,andsaltuntilwellcombined. 3.W henthemilkmixtureissimmering,pouritinan evenstreamintotheyolkmixture,whiskingcon­ stantly. 4 . Returnthem ixturetothepotandcontinuetocook, stirringconstantly,untilthemixturereachesnappe consistency. 5. Strainthebasethroughafine-m eshstrainerintoa bain-marieinanicewaterbath.Chilluntilthemix­ tureisbelow40°F/4°C. 6. Churninanicecreammakeraccordingtomanufac­ turer’sinstructions. 7. Placeinanairtightcontainerandfreezeuntilfirm enoughscoop,8hoursorovernight.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

1151

Chocolate Graham Decor

Marshmallow

M akes 12 servings

M akes 12 servings

8 o z/2 2 7 g melted chocolate, tempered

3/ t o z/21 g powdered gelatin

Graham cracker crumbs, as needed

4 o z/1 1 3 g cold water

Spreadthemeltedchocolateontoparchmentpaper withanoffsetspatulatoaboutVsin/3mmthick. Sprinklegenerouslywithgrahamcrackercrumbs beforethechocolatefullysets. Cuttheslabofchocolateinto21/2-in/6-cmsquares withaparingknife.Topwithanotherpieceofparch­ mentpaper,andtopwithasheetpantokeepthe decorflatasitsets. Graham Cracker Crust for S'mores M akes 12 servings 10 o z/2 8 4 g graham cracker crumbs 6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter 4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar

Inamediumbowl,combinealltheingredients.Re­ servethecrustmixtureinanairtightcontaineruntil needed.

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar 6 o z/1 7 0 g glucose 2 o z/5 7 g honey 2 o z/5 7 g invert sugar 3 o z/8 5 g water

V* o z/7 g vanilla extract Confectioners’ sugar, as needed for dusting

1.Lineasheetpanw ithoiledparchmentpaper. 2 .Inasm allbowl,stirthegelatinintothecoldwater

tobloom. 3.Inam ediumsaucepan,cookthesugar,glucose, honey,invertsugar,and3oz/85gwateruntilitreg­ isters250°F/i2i°Conaninstant-readthermometer. 4 .Pourthesugarm ixtureintothebowlofanelectric mixerfittedwiththewirewhipandallowtocool to212°F/lOO°C. 5.M eltthegelatininadoubleboiler.W henthesugar mixturehascooled,addthegelatinandwhipon highspeeduntilthick,about8minutes. 6. Addthevanillaextractandmixtofullycombine. 7.Spreadthem arshmallowontothepreparedsheet panusingalightlyoiledspatula. 8. Placeanothersheetofoiledparchmentontop ofthemarshmallowandflattenuntilthetopis smoothandeven. 9 .Freezethem arshmallowovernight. 1 0 .D ustthetopofthemarshmallowwithconfection­ ers’sugaranduseapastrywheeltocutintostrips 1V2by6in/4by15cm . 1 1.Storeatroomtem peratureinanairtightcontainer.

Classic Caramel Sauce

M akes 40 centers

M akes 12 servings

8 3/ t o z/2 4 8 g heavy cream

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream

2 3/t o z / 7 8 g glucose

13 o z/3 6 9 g sugar

9 3/ t o z/2 7 6 g bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

10 o z/2 8 4 g glucose

40 tru ffle shells

2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft

Melted bittersw eet chocolate, as needed

1. Inasm allpot,bringtheheavycreamandglucoseto

asimmerovermediumheat. 2 . Placethechoppedchocolateinam ediumstainlesssteelbowl.Pourthehotcreammixtureoverthe chocolate. 3. Letthem ixturesitfor1minute,thenstirfromthe middleofthemixturetotheoutside,untilcombined intoasmoothganche. 4 .Transfertoahotelpanandletthem ixturesitfor1 houratroomtemperature. 5. Transferthem ixturetoapipingbagfittedwitha mediumplaintip.Pipethemixtureintothetruffle shells,leavingjustenoughroomatthetoptoclose thetruffleswithmeltedchocolate. Letthefilled trufflessetintherefrigeratorfor1hour. 6. Poursomemeltedchocolateintoapipingbag,and cutasmallholeinthetip.Finisheachtrufflebyclos­ ingitwithmeltedchocolate. 7. Freezethetrufflecentersuntilcom pletelyfrozen, about2hours.

1 . Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil

overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat tokeepwarm. 2 . Prepareanicew aterbath.Combinethesugarand glucoseinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandslowly cookovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,untilthe sugarhasdissolved.Stopstirringandcontinueto cooktoagoldencaramel. Removefromtheheatand shockthesaucepanintheicewaterbathtostopthe cooking. 3. Rem ovefromtheicewaterbathandstirthebutter intothecaramel. Carefullystirinthehotcream, mixinguntilfullyblended. 4 . Reserveatroomtem peratureuntilneededforser­ vice. Forlongerstorage,placeinanairtightcontain­ erandrefrigerate.W armthesaucebeforeuse.

c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DESSERTS

plated dessert recipes

Beignet Truffle Centers

1153

White Sauce

Chocolate Beignet Batter

M akes 12 servings

M akes 40 beignets

8 o z/2 2 7 g sour cream

9'/2 o z/2 69 g bread flour

3/ t oz/21 g confectioners’ sugar

6'/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar

'A o z/7 g vanilla extract

3 o z/8 5 g cocoa powder

Heavy cream, as needed

V* o z/7 g baking powder

1. Inasm allbowl,combinethesourcream,sugar,and

vanilla.Stirinheavycreamuntilthemixturereaches athick,honey-likeconsistency. 2 . Storethefinishedsaucerefrigeratedinanairtight containeruntilneededforservice.

l t s p /3 g s a lt

8'/2 o z/2 4 0 g whole milk 7 o z/1 9 8 g e g g s

V/2 o z /4 3 g canola oil 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract 40 Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)

NOTE: The sauce will thicken slightly under refrigeration. Adjust the consistency w ith additional heavy cream if necessary.

Flour, as needed for dusting

1 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad­

dle,combinethebreadflour,sugar,cocoapowder, bakingpowder,andsalt. 2 .A ddthemilk,eggs,oil, andvanillaandcontinueto mixuntilasmoothbatterforms. 3. Transferthem ixturetoanairtightcontainerandlet itrest,refrigerated,overnight. 4 . Coatthetrufflecentersw ithflourbeforedipping intobatter(seeAssembly,page1151).

1154

BAKING AND PASTRY

S'mores (page 1151)

Vanilla Ice Cream

M akes 12 servings

M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L

COMPONENTS

1 lb /4 5 4 g milk

Chocolate Sauce (page 1159)

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream

Caramel Sauce (page 1159)

1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup

White Sauce (page 1154)

7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar

Chocolate Pate a Choux (page 1160)

' / t t s p / l g salt

Corn Flake Crunch (page 1159)

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Confectioners’ sugar, as needed for dusting

1 0 3/ t o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks

Vanilla Ice Cream (recipe follows) Coffee Ice Cream (page 1158) Dulce de Leche Ice Cream (page 1158) Chocolate Straws (page 1160)

ASSEMBLY

1. Prepare12bow ls. 2 . Pipealternatingdotsofthechocolate, caram el, and

whitesaucesaroundtheperimeterofeachbowl. 3. Sw irlthesaucestogetherwithatoothpick. 4 . Filleachpateachouxpastryw ithapproximately 1tbsp/15mLofthecornflakecrunch. 5. Dustthereservedpateachouxtopsw ithconfection­ ers’sugar. 6. Place3pastriesoneachplateandfilleachwitha 3A-il o z/22-mLscoopofthevanilla,coffee, anddulce delecheicecream. 7. Toptheicecreamw ithchocolatesaucetoforma triangle. 8. Finishbyplacingthesugar-dustedtopsbackonto eachprofiteroleandaddingtwochocolatestraws.

1.Com binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe

sugar,thesalt,andthevanillabeanpodandseeds inasaucepan. 2 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat andcook,stirringconstantly,7to10minutes. 3.Rem ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit tosteepfor5minutes. 4 .M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­ ingsugar. 5.Rem ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand returnthemixturetoasimmer. 6. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper. 7.Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwiththe remaininghotliquidandstirconstantlyoverme­ diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour. 9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam inimumof12hours. 10 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe manufacturer’sdirections. 11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S

plated desserts recipes

P rofiteroles

1157

Coffee Ice Cream

Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L

M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L

1 lb /4 5 4 g milk

1 can (14 o z/3 9 6 g) sweetened condensed milk

1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream

1 lb /4 5 4 g milk

1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup

1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream

7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar

1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup

2 o z/5 7 g coarsely ground coffee

7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar

I/4 ts p /1 g salt

' / i t s p / l gsalt

10 3/ t o z /3 0 5 g egg yolks

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1.Com binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe

sugar,thecoffee,andthesaltinasaucepan. 2 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.Donotbring themixturetoaboil. 3.Rem ovefromtheheat, coverthepan,andallowit tosteepfor5minutes. 4 .M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­ ingsugar. 5.Strainthecoffeegroundsfromthem ilkandreturn themixturetoasimmer. 6. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper. 7.Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwiththe remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme­ diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour. 9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam inimumof12hours. 10 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe manufacturer’sdirections. 11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.

BAKING AND PASTRY

1 0 3A o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks

1 .Placethecanofcondensedm ilkinapotandcover

withatleast1in/3cmwater. 2 .Sim merfor4hours,makingsuretokeepthecan coveredwithwater. Storetheunopenedcanat roomtemperatureuntilneeded. 3.Com binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe sugar,thesalt, andthevanillabeanpodandseeds inasaucepan. 4 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,7to10minutes. 5.Rem ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit tosteepfor5minutes. 6. Meanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­ ingsugar. 7.Rem ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand returnthemixturetoasimmer. 8. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper. 9 .Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwith remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme­ diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 10.Straintheicecreambaseintoam etalcontainer overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour. 11 .W hileitcools, stirthecontentsofthecondensed milkcanthoroughlyintothehotbase.Coverand refrigerateforaminimumof12hours. 12 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe manufacturer’sdirections. 13.Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.

Vanilla Caramel Sauce

Makes lib g oz/jog g

Makes 12 servings

2V* o z /6 4 g hazelnuts

13 o z/3 6 9 g heavy cream

2 1/t o z / 6 4 g sugar

1

12 o z/3 4 0 g milk chocolate, finely chopped

Pinch salt

8

V 2 o z/2 41 g corn flakes

vanilla bean, split and scraped

7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar 2 o z/5 7 g water

1 . Place the hazelnuts and sugar in a food processor

5 o z/1 4 2 g corn syrup

and grind until the mixture climbs the walls of the bowl. Scrape down the walls and continue to grind.

1

o z/2 8 g butter, cubed

Repeat this process at least three times, until a smooth-looking paste forms.

2 . Melt the chocolate in a metal bowl over simmering water. Once the chocolate is completely melted, fold in the corn flakes and the hazelnut-sugar mixture.

3 . Spread the mixture thinly on a parchment-lined sheet pan and store in a closed container at room temperature. Reheat for service as needed.

1 . Combine the cream, vanilla bean pod and seeds, and salt. Heat to a simmer over medium heat, cover and

plated dessert recipes

Corn Flake Crunch

allow to steep for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean pod and reserve.

2 . Combine the sugar and water in a pot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.

3 . Add the corn syrup and continue to cook without stirring until the mixture is a medium caramel color,

Chocolate Sauce Makes 12 servings 5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r 8 o z /2 2 7 g w a te r 2 'A

o z /6 4

g corn syrup

about 7 minutes.

4 . Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Slowly whisk in the cream mixture.

5 . Allow to cool slightly before transferring to a serving container. 6 . For longer storage, place in an airtight container and refrigerate. Warm the sauce before use.

2 o z/5 7 g cocoa powder 8

o z /2 2 7 g bittersw eet chocolate, finely chopped

1 . Combine the sugar, water, and syrup in a heavybottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Remove from the heat.

2 . Place the cocoa in a heatproof bowl and add enough of the hot syrup to make a paste, stirring until smooth. Gradually add the remaining syrup and mix until fully incorporated.

3 . Add the chocolate and blend until fully incorporated. 4 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer. Store the sauce in an airtight container until needed for service.

c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DESSERTS

1159

Chocolate Pate a Choux

Chocolate Straws

Makes

Yield:

12

servings

8 o z/2 2 7 g milk

12

straws

12 o z/3 4 0 g chocolate, melted, tempered

8 o z/2 2 7 g water 8 o z/2 2 7 g butter

1 . Spread tempered chocolate on a marble surface no wider than the width of the tool you will be using to

1 ts p /3 g s a lt

form the straws, or, when the chocolate is somewhat

61/2 o z/1 8 4 g bread flour

set, use the tip of a paring knife to score the choco­

V / 2 o z/4 3 g cocoa powder

late into narrow strips. Let the chocolate set briefly.

12V2 o z /3 5 4 g eggs (6 eggs)

2 . Using the same motion as described above, scrape the chocolate into straws. It is important to scrape

1 . Bring the milk, water, butter, and salt to a boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add all the flour and cocoa powder at once. Re­ turn to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 3 minutes.

2 . Transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer and beat briefly on medium speed with a paddle. Add 2 eggs at a time, beating until smooth after each addition.

3 . Place the dough into a piping bag with a no. 5 round tip. Pipe into bulbs 1V2 in/4 cm in diameter onto a parchment-lined baking sheet.

4 . Bake at 36o°F/i82°C until cracks form in the pastry, about 50 minutes.

5 . Allow the pastries to cool to room temperature. 6 . Slice off the top third of each of the baked pastries and reserve the tops and the bottoms to be filled. If storing for later use, the pastry should not be sliced and may be stored in an airtight container at room temperature or frozen for longer storage.

1160

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

the chocolate with a motion directly parallel to the length of the strip; otherwise, the straws will curl into each other and be difficult to separate.

ppendix Approximate Soaking and Cooking Times for Selected Dried Legumes TYPE

SOAKING TIME

COOKINGTIME

AD ZU KI BEANS

4 hours

1 hour

BLACK BEANS

4 hours

I V 2 hours

BLACK-EYED PEAS*

—

1 hour

CHICKPEAS

4 hours

2 to 2 V i hours

FAVA BEANS

12 hours

3 hours

GREAT NORTHERN BEANS

4 hours

1 hour

KIDNEY BEANS (RED OR W HITE)

4 hours

1 hour

LEN TILS*

—

3 0 to 40 m inutes

LIM A BEANS

4 hours

1 to I V 2 hours

MUNGBEANS

4 hours

1 hour

NAVY BEANS

4 hours

2 hours

PEAS, SPLIT*

—

30 m in utes

PEAS, WHOLE

4 hours

40 m inutes

PIGEON PEAS*

—

30 m inutes

PINK BEANS

4 hours

1 hour

PINTO BEANS

4 hours

1 to I V 2 hours

SOYBEANS

12 hours

3 to 3Vz hours

*Soaking is not necessary.

AP P E N D IX

ll6 l

Cooking Ratios and Times fo r Selected Pasta and Grains TYPE

RATIO OF GRAIN TO LIQUID (CUPS)

APPROXIMATE YIELD (CUPS)

COOKINGTIME

BARLEY, PEARLED

1:2

4

35 to 45 m inutes

BARLEY GROATS

1 :2 V 2

4

50 m in u te s to 1 hour

BUCKWHEAT GROATS (KASHA)

L I 1/? to 2

2

12 to 2 0 m in utes

couscous

l : l lA to I V 2

lY 2 t o 2

5 to 10 m in utes

HOMINY, W HOLE*

1:2 V i

3

2 V i t o 3 hours

H O M IN Y GRITS

1:4

3

25 m in utes

M ILLET

1:2

3

30 to 35 m in utes

OAT GROATS

1:2

2

45 m in u te s to 1 hour

POLENTA, FIRM

1:4

5

35 to 45 m in utes

POLENTA, SOFT

1:5

6

35 to 45 m in utes

RICE, ARBORIO (FOR RISOTTO)

1:3

3

18 to 2 2 m in utes

RICE, BASMATI

1-.1V2

3

2 5 m in utes

RICE, CAROLINA

l- .V A

3

2 5 to 30 m in utes

RICE, CONVERTED

1 :2

4

18 to 20 m inutes

RICE,JASM INE

1:1 V i

3

2 5 m in utes

RICE, LONG-GRAIN, BROWN

1:3

4

40 m in utes

RICE, LONG-GRAIN, W HITE

1:1 V i

3

12 to 15 m in utes

RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, BROWN

1:2 V 2

4

30 to 35 m inutes

RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, W HITE

1:1 to I V 2

3

20 to 30 m in utes

RICE,W ILD

1:4

5

40 to 45 m inutes

RICE, W ILD, PECAN

l- .V A

4

2 0 m in utes

WHEAT BERRIES

1:3

2

1 hour

WHEAT, BULGUR, SOAKED*

1:4

2

2 hours

WHEAT, BULGUR, PILAF*

1:2 V i

2

15 to 20 m in utes

WHEAT, CRACKED®

1:2

3

20 m in utes

+Grain should be soaked b riefly in tepid water, then drained before it is steamed. +Grain should be soaked overnight in cold water, then drained before it is cooked. §Grain may be cooked by covering it w ith boiling water and soaking fo r 2 hours, or by the pila f cooking method.

1162

A P P E N D IX

Weight Measure Conversions U.S.

METRIC

V i OUNCE

7 gram s

V 2 OUNCE

14 gram s

1 OUNCE

2 8 .3 5 gram s

4 OUNCES

1 1 3 gram s

8 OUNCES (V 2 POUND)

2 2 7 gram s

16 OUNCES (1 POUND)

4 5 4 gram s

32 OUNCES (2 POUNDS)

9 0 7 gram s

4 0 OUNCES (2 V 2 POUNDS)

1 .1 3 4 kilo g ra m s

Volume Measure Conversions U.S.

METRIC

1 TEASPOON

5 m illilite rs

1 TABLESPOON

15 m illilite r s

1 FLUID OUNCE (2 TABLESPOONS)

3 0 m illilite r s

2 FLUID OUNCES [lA CUP)

6 0 m illilite rs

8 FLUID OUNCES (1 CUP)

2 4 0 m illilite rs

16 FLUID OUNCES (1 PINT)

4 8 0 m illilite rs

32 FLUID OUNCES (1 QUART)

9 6 0 m illilite r s (0.95 lite r)

1 2 8 FLUID OUNCES (1 GALLON)

3 .8 4 lite rs

These measurements are exact. For ease o f use in the kitchen, the measurements in the recipes are rounded to the nearest whole number.

AP PE N D IX

1163

Temperature Conversions DEGREES CELSIUS (°C)*

32°

0°

0 O

4°

I -J^ O O

60°

O O LO i- H

—1

DEGREES FAHRENHEIT (°F)

66°

16 0°

71°

17 0°

77°

212°

100°

275°

135°

300°

14 9°

325°

16 3°

350°

17 7°

375°

19 1°

400°

204°

425°

218°

450°

232°

475°

246°

500°

260°

^Celsius temperatures have been rounded.

Common Unit Conversions

1164

U.S. MEASURE

VOLUME

VOLUME (FLUID OUNCES)

1 POUND

16 ounces (w e igh t)

Varies by p ro d u c t

1 GALLON

4 q u a rts

1 2 8 flu id ounces

1 QUART

2 p in ts

3 2 flu id ounces

1 PINT

2 cups

16 flu id ounces

1 CUP

16 ta b le sp o o n s

8 flu id ounces

1 TABLESPOON

3 te a sp o o n s

V 2 flu id ounce

A P P E N D IX

Information, Hints, and Tips fo r Calculations 1 ga llo n = 4 q u a rts = 8 p in ts = 16 cups (8 flu id ounces pe r cup) = 1 2 8 flu id ounces 1 f if t h b o ttle = a p p ro x im a te ly I V 2 p in ts o r e x a c tly 2 5 .6 flu id ounces 1 m ea surin g cup holds 8 flu id ounces (a c o ffe e cup ge n e ra lly holds 6 flu id ounces) 1 egg w h ite = 2 flu id ounces (average) 1 lem on = 1 to V-A flu id ounces ju ic e 1 orange = 3 to 3 lA flu id ounces ju ice

to convert ounces and pounds to grams: M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 ; m u ltip ly pounds by 4 5 3 .5 9

to convert Fahrenheit to Celsius: ( ° F - 3 2 ) / 1 . 8 = °C

to convert ounces and pounds to grams: M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e gram s; d ivid e pounds by 2.2 to d e te rm in e kilo g ra m s

to convert grams to ounces or pounds: D ivide gram s by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e ounces; d ivid e gram s by 4 5 3 .5 9 to d e te rm in e pounds

to convert fluid ounces to milliliters: M u ltip ly flu id ounces by 3 0 to d e te rm in e m illilite rs

to convert milliliters to fluid ounces: D ivide m illilite rs by 3 0 to d e te rm in e flu id ounces

metric prefixes kilo = 1,0 00 he cto = 100 deka = 10 deci = 1 /1 0 ce n ti = 1 /1 0 0 m illi = 1 /1 0 0 0

converting to common unit of measure: To c o n v e rt m ea sure m ents to a com m on u n it (by w e ig h t o r volum e), use th e c h a rt on th e fo llo w in g page. This in fo rm a tio n is used b o th to c o n v e rt scaled m easurem ents in to p ra c tic a l and e a sy-to -u se re cip e m easures and to d e te rm in e costs.

A P PE N D IX

11

Weights and Measures Equivalents volum e D ash/pinch

less than Vs tea spoo n

3 tea spoo ns

1 ta b le sp o o n (V2 flu id ounce)

2 ta b le sp o o n s

Vb cup (1 flu id ounce)

4 ta b le s p o o n s

V 4 cup (2 flu id ounces)

5 lA ta b le sp o o n s

V 3 cup (2 2/3 flu id ounces)

8 ta b le sp o o n s

V2 cup (4 flu id ounces)

1 0 2/3 ta b le sp o o n s

2/3 cup (5V3 flu id ounces)

12 ta b le sp o o n s

3/4 c u p (6 flu id ounces)

14 ta b le sp o o n s

Vb cup (7 flu id ounces)

16 ta b le sp o o n s

1 cup

1 giU

5 flu id ounces

1 cup

8 flu id ounces (2 4 0 m illilite rs )

2 cups

1 p in t (4 8 0 m illilite rs )

2 p in ts

1 q u a rt (9 6 0 m illilite rs ; approx. 1 lite r)

4 q u a rts

1 g a llo n (3.84 lite rs )

8 qu arts

1 peck (7.68 lite rs )

4 pecks

1 bushel (31 lite rs )

w eight

1166

1 ounce

2 8 .3 5 gram s (round to 28)

16 ounces

1 pound (4 5 3 .5 9 gram s, round to 4 5 4)

1 kilogra m

2.2 pounds

A P P E N D IX

glossary otherw ise special, served when the guests in a restaurant ABALONE: A mollusk w ith a single shell approxim ately 6 in /1 5 cm long and a large, edible adductor muscle. Abalones are generally cut and pounded into steaks before being sauteed or g rille d and have a chewy te x tu re w ith a mild flavor. ABOYEUR: Expediter or announcer; a sta tio n in the kitchen b ri­ gade system. The aboyeur accepts orders fro m the dining room, relays them to the appropriate sta tio ns o f the kitchen, and checks each plate before it leaves the kitchen. ACID: A substance th a t te s ts lower than 7 on the pH scale. Acids

are seated. The amuse is n o t listed on a menu and is included in the price o f an entree. ANAEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t do not require oxygen to function. ANGEL FOOD CAKE: A type o f sponge cake made w ith o u t egg yolks or other fa ts. Beaten egg whites give it its light and airy structu re . Typically baked in a tube pan. ANTIOXIDANTS: N aturally occurring substances th a t retard the breakdown o f tissues in the presence o f oxygen. May be

have a sour or sharp flavor. A cid ity occurs naturally in many

added to fo o d during processing or may occur naturally. Help

foods, including citru s juice, vinegar, wine, and sour m ilk

to prevent food fro m becoming rancid or discolored due to

products. Acids act as tenderizers in marinades, helping to break down connective tissues and cell walls. ADULTERATED FOOD: Food th a t has been contam inated to the p o in t th a t it is considered u n fit fo r human consumption. AEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t require the presence o f oxy­ gen to function. AIOLI: Garlic mayonnaise, o fte n used as a condim ent w ith fish and meat. In Italian, allio li; in Spanish, aliolio. A LA CARTE: A menu fro m which the patron makes individual

oxidation. ANTIPASTO: L iterally, “ before the meal.” Typically, a p la tte r o f hot or cold hors d'oeuvre th a t may include meats, olives, cheeses, and vegetables. APERITIF: A lig h t alcoholic beverage consumed before the meal to stim ulate the appetite. APPAREIL: A prepared m ixture o f ingredients used alone or in another preparation. APPETIZER: L ight food served before a meal or as the fir s t

selections in various menu categories; each item is priced

course o f a meal. May be hot or cold, plated or served as

separately.

fin g e r food.

A LANGLAISE: French te rm fo r foods th a t have been prepared "in the English way.” Refers to foods th a t have been breaded and frie d , or boiled, or poached. ALBUMEN: The egg white. Makes up about 70 percent o f the egg and contains m ost o f the pro te in in the egg. AL DENTE: L iterally, "to the to o th"; refe rs to an item, such as pasta or vegetables, cooked u n til it is te n de r but s till firm , not soft. ALKALI: A substance th a t te s ts a t higher than 7 on the pH scale. Alkalis are som etim es described as having a slig h tly soapy flavor. Can be used to balance acids. Olives and baking soda are some o f the fe w alkaline foods. ALLUMETTE: Vegetable cut, usually re fe rrin g to potatoes cut into pieces the size and shape o f m atchsticks, Ve in by Vs in by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm. Also called julienne. AMANDINE: Garnished w ith almonds. AMINO ACIDS: The building blocks o f proteins. O f the 20 amino

AQUACULTURE: The farm raising o f fish or shellfish in natural or co n tro lle d marine tanks or ponds. ARBORIO: A high-starch short-grain rice tra d itio n a lly used in the p reparation o f riso tto . AROMATICS: Ingredients such as herbs, spices, vegetables, c it­ rus fru its , wines, and vinegars used to enhance the fla vo r and fragrance o f food. AROMATIZED WINE: F o rtifie d wine infused w ith any o f a wide va rie ty o f arom atic plants or b itte r herbs, roots, bark, or other plant pa rts (e.g., verm outh). ARROWROOT: A powdered starch made fro m the ro o t o f a tro p i­ cal plant o f the same name. Used p rim arily as a thickener. Remains clear when cooked. ASPIC: A clear je lly made from stock (or occasionally fr u it or vegetable juice) thickened w ith gelatin. Used to coat foods or cubed and used as a garnish. AS-PURCHASED (AP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item as received

acids in the human diet, 9 are called "essential" because

fro m the supplier before trim m in g or oth er preparation (as

they cannot be produced by the body and m ust be supplied

opposed to e d ib le -p o rtion [EP] weight).

through a person's diet. AMUSE-GUEULE: French fo r "appetizer." Chef’s tasting: a small po rtio n (1 or 2 bites) o f som ething exotic, unusual, or

G LO S S A R Y

1167

b

BAVARIAN CREAM, BAVAROIS: A mousse-like dessert made

BACTERIA: M icroscopic organisms. Some have beneficial prop­ erties; others can cause food-borne illnesses when foods contam inated w ith them are ingested. BAGUETTE: A loaf o f bread o f French origin, made w ith 12 to

from vanilla sauce fla vo re d w ith a fr u it puree or juice, lig h t­ ened w ith whipped cream, and stabilized w ith gelatin. BEARNAISE: A classic b u tte r emulsion, sim ilar to hollandaise, made w ith egg yolks, a reduction o f w hite wine, shallots,

16 o z/3 40 to 4 54 g o f dough, shaped into a long, skinny

and tarragon. Also, b u tte r finished w ith tarragon and

loaf th a t ranges fro m 2 to 3 in /5 to 8 cm in diam eter and

chervil.

18 to 24 in /4 6 to 61 cm in length. The dough, made o f flour,

BECHAMEL: A w h ite sauce made o f m ilk thickened w ith a pale

water, salt, and yeast, yields a paper-thin crisp crust and a

roux and flavored w ith w h ite mirepoix. One o f the "grand”

light, airy crumb.

sauces.

BAIN-MARIE: The French te rm fo r a w a te r bath used to cook fo o ds g ently by surrounding the cooking vessel w ith sim ­ m ering water. Also, a set o f cylindrical nesting inserts used to hold foods in a w a te r bath or, w ith a single, long handle, used as a double boiler. Also, steam table inserts. BAKE: To cook food by surrounding it w ith dry heat in a closed environm ent, as in an oven. BAKE BLIND: To p a rtia lly or com pletely bake an unfilled pastry crust by lining it w ith parchm ent and fillin g w ith weights th a t are removed during or a fte r baking. BAKING POWDER: A chemical leavener made w ith an alkaline and an acidic ingredient, m ost commonly sodium bicar­ bonate (baking soda) and cream o f ta rta r. When exposed to liquid, it produces carbon dioxide gas, which leavens

BENCH-PROOF: In yeast dough production, to allow dough to rise a fte r it has been panned and ju s t before it is baked. BEURRE BLANC: L iterally, "w hite butter." A classic em ulsified sauce made w ith a reduction o f w h ite wine and shallots, thickened w ith whole b u tte r and possibly finished w ith fresh herbs or o th er seasonings. BEURRE FONDU: M elted butter. BEURRE MANIE: L iterally, “kneaded butter.” A m ixture o f equal parts by w eight o f whole b u tte r and flour, used to thicken gravies and sauces. BEURRE NOIR: Literally, "black butter." B u tte r th a t has been cooked to a very dark brown or nearly black. Also, a sauce made w ith browned butter, vinegar, chopped parsley, and capers, usually served w ith fish.

doughs and ba tters. Double-acting baking powder contains ingredients th a t produce tw o leavening reactions: one upon exposure to liquid, the second when heated.

BEURRE NOISETTE: Lite ra lly,"h a ze ln ut butter,” meaning brown butter. Whole b u tte r th a t has been heated u n til browned to a hazelnut color.

BAKING SODA: Sodium bicarbonate, a leavening agent th a t, when combined w ith an acidic ingredient and m oisture, releases carbon dioxide gas and leavens baked goods. BARBECUE: To cook food by g rillin g it over a wood or charcoal fire . O ften a marinade or sauce is brushed on the item dur­ ing cooking. Also, m eat cooked in th is way. BARD: To cover a naturally lean m eat w ith slabs or strip s o f fa t such as bacon or fa tb ack th a t baste it during roasting or braising. The fa t is usually tie d on w ith butcher’s twine. BARQUETTE: A boat-shaped ta r t or ta rtle t, which may have a sweet or savory fillin g .

BINDER: An ingredient or appareil used to thicken a sauce or hold to g e th e r another m ixture o f ingredients. BISQUE: A soup based on crustaceans or a vegetable puree. It is classically thickened w ith rice and usually finished w ith cream. BIVALVE: A mollusk w ith tw o hinged shells. Examples are clams, scallops, oysters, and mussels. BLANC: A preparation containing water, flour, onion, cloves, a bouquet garni, salt, and lemon juice. Used to cook veg­ etables such as mushrooms, celeriac, salsify, or cauliflow er to keep them white.

BASTE: To m oisten fo o d during cooking w ith pan drippings, sauce, or oth er liquid. Basting prevents fo o d from drying out.

BLANCH: To cook an item b rie fly in boiling w a te r or hot fa t before fin ish in g or sto rin g it. Blanching preserves the color, lessens strong flavors, and aids in rem oving the peels of

BATCH COOKING: A cooking technique in which a p p ro p ri­

some fru its and vegetables.

ately sized quantities o f fo o d are prepared several tim es throughout a service period so th a t a fresh supply o f cooked item s is always available.

BLANQUETTE: A w h ite stew, usually o f veal but sometim es o f chicken or lamb w ith w h ite onions and mushrooms. It is served w ith a sauce th a t has been thickened w ith a liaison.

BAT0N/BAT0NNET: Items cut into pieces somewhat larger than a llum ette or julienne; V4 in by V4 in by 1 to 2 in/ 6 mm by 6 mm by 3 to 5 cm. French fo r "s tick” or “ small stick.”

BLEND: A m ixture o f tw o or more fla vo rs combined to achieve a p a rticu la r fla vo r or quality. Also, to mix tw o or more ingre­ dients to g e th e r un til combined.

BATTER: A m ixture o f flo u r and liquid, som etim es w ith the in­ clusion o f o ther ingredients. B atters vary in thickness but are generally sem iliquid and th in n er than doughs. Used in such preparations as cakes, quick breads, pancakes, and

BLINI: A silver do lla r-size yeast-raised buckwheat pancake o riginating in Russia. BLOOM: To hydrate gelatin in liquid before dissolving. Also, the

crepes. Also, a liquid m ixture used to coat foods before

lig h t gray film on the skin o f apples, blueberries, grapes,

deep frying.

and prunes. Also, streaks o f w h ite /g ra y fa t or sugar th a t appear on solid, untem pered chocolate.

1168

G LO S S A R Y

BOIL: To cook fo o d by fu lly im m ersing it in liquid a t the boiling

BROWN STOCK: An amber liquid produced by simmering

point (212°F/100°C).

browned bones and m eat (usually veal or beef) w ith veg­ etables and arom atics (including caramelized m irepoix and

BORSCHT: A soup origina tin g in Russia and Poland, made from

to m a to puree).

fresh beets and garnished w ith sour cream. May include an assortm ent o f vegetables and /o r meat, and may be served

BRUISE: To p a rtia lly crush a fo o d item in order to release its

hot or cold. BOTULISM: A food-borne illness caused by toxins produced by

flavor. BRUNOISE: A dice cut o f V8-in/3-m m cubes. For brunoise cut,

the anaerobic bacterium C lostridium botulinum .

item s are fir s t cut in julienne, then cut crosswise. For fine brunoise, a V l6 -in /1 .50 -m m cube, cut item s fir s t in fine

BOUCHER: French fo r "butcher."

julienne. BOUILLABAISSE: A hearty fish and shellfish stew flavored w ith tom atoes, onions, garlic, w h ite wine, and saffron. A tra d i­

BUTCHER: A chef or purveyor who is responsible fo r breaking down meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. In the brigade

tio n a l specialty o f M arseilles, France.

system, the butcher may also be responsible fo r breading

BOUILLON: French fo r"b ro th .”

m eat and fish item s and o ther mise en place operations

BOULANGER: Baker, sp e cifica lly o f breads and o ther unsweet­ ened doughs.

involving meat. BUTTER: A sem isolid fa t made by churning cream; must contain

BOUQUET GARNI: A small bundle o f herbs tie d w ith string. Used to fla v o r stocks, braises, and o ther preparations.

a t least 80 percent m ilk fa t. BUTTERCREAM: An icing made o f butter, sugar, and eggs or

Usually contains bay leaf, parsley, thyme, and possibly

custard, used to garnish cakes and pastries. The fo u r types

o th er arom atics wrapped in leek leaves. BRAISE: To cook a food, usually meat, by searing in fa t, then

are Italian, Swiss, French, and German. BUTTERFLYTo cut an item (usually m eat or seafood) and open

sim m ering slowly a t a low tem perature in a small amount o f

o ut the edges like a book or the wings o f a b u tte rfly.

sto ck or another liquid (usually halfway up the m eat item ) in a covered vessel. The cooking liquid is then reduced and

BUTTERMILK: A dairy beverage w ith a slig h tly sour fla vo r sim i­ lar to th a t o f yogurt. T raditionally the liquid by-product o f

used as the base o f a sauce.

b u tte r churning, now usually made by culturing skim milk. BRAN: The ou ter layer o f a cereal grain; the p a rt highest in fiber. BRANDY: S p irit made by d is tillin g wine or the fe rm ented mash o f fru it. May be aged in oak barrels.

c CAJUN: A hearty cuisine based on French and southern in flu ­

BRASIER/BRAZIER: A pan designed sp e cifica lly fo r braising th a t usually has tw o handles and a tig h t-fittin g lid. O ften round but may be square or rectangular. Also called a

ences; signature ingredients include spices, dark roux, pork fa t, file powder, green peppers, onions, and celery. Jambalaya is a tra d itio n a l Cajun dish.

rondeau. CALORIE: A unit o f measure o f food energy. It is the amount o f BREAD: A p roduct made o f flour, sugar, shortening, salt, and liquid, leavened by the action o f yeast. Also, to coat food

energy needed to raise the tem perature o f 1 kilogram o f w a te r by 1°C.

w ith flour, eggs, and crumbs before fry in g or baking. CANADIAN BACON: Smoked eye o f the pork loin. Referred to BRIGADE SYSTEM: The kitchen organization system in stitu te d by G eorges-Auguste Escoffier. Each position has a sta tio n

as peameal or back bacon in Canada, Canadian bacon is leaner than slab bacon and purchased precooked.

and w ell-defined responsibilities. CANAPE: An hors d'oeuvre consisting o f a small piece o f bread BRINE: A solution o f salt, water, and seasonings, used to pre­ serve or m oisten foods. BRIOCHE: A rich yeast dough, tra d itio n a lly baked in a flu te d pan, w ith a d istin ctive to p k n o t o f dough. BRISKET: A cut o f be e f fro m the lower forequarter, best suited fo r long-cooking m ethods such as braising. Corned beef is cured beef brisket. BROIL: To cook fo o d by means o f a radiant heat source placed above it. BROILER: The piece o f equipm ent used to broil foods. BROTH: A fla v o rfu l, arom atic liquid made by sim m ering w ater or stock w ith meat, vegetables, and /o r spices and herbs. BROWN SAUCE: A sauce made fro m a brown stock and arom at­ ics and thickened by roux, a pure starch slurry, and /o r a reduction; includes sauce espagnole, demi-glace, jus de

or to a st, o fte n cut in a decorative shape, garnished w ith a savory spread or topping. CARAMELIZATION:The process o f browning sugar in the pres­ ence o f heat. The caram elization o f sugar occurs between 320° and 3 6 0 °F /1 6 0 ° and 182°C. CARBOHYDRATE: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body as a source o f energy. Types are simple (sugars) and com­ plex (starches and fibers). CARBON DIOXIDE: A colorless, tasteless, edible gas obtained through fe rm e n ta tio n or fro m the com bination o f soda and acid, which acts to leaven baked goods. CARRYOVER COOKING: The heat retained in cooked foods th a t allows them to continue cooking even a fte r removal fro m the cooking medium. Especially im p orta n t to roasted foods.

veau lie, and pan sauces.

G LO S S A R Y

1169

CASING: A syn th etic or natural membrane (if natural, usu­

CHEF'S KNIFE: An all-purpose knife used fo r chopping, slicing,

ally pig or sheep intestines) used to enclose sausage

and mincing; its blade is usually between 8 and 14 in/20

forcem eat.

and 36 cm long.

CASSEROLE: A lidded cooking vessel, used in the oven; usually round w ith tw o handles. Also, fo o d cooked in a casserole, o fte n bound w ith a sauce and topped w ith cheese or bread crumbs. CASSOULET: A stew o f w hite beans baked w ith pork or other meats, duck or goose co n fit, and seasonings. CAUL FAT: A fa tty membrane fro m the abdominal cavity o f a pig or sheep, resem bling fine netting; used to bard roasts and pates and to encase sausage forcem eat. CELLULOSE: A complex carbohydrate; the main structu ra l com­ ponent o f plant cells. CEPHALOPOD: Marine creatures whose te n tacle s and arms are attached d ire c tly to th e ir heads, such as squid and octopus. CHAFING DISH: A m etal dish w ith a heating unit (flam e or elec­ tric), used to keep foods warm and to cook foods tableside or during b u ffe t service. CHAMPAGNE: A sparkling w h ite wine produced in the Champagne region o f France using three grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The term is som etim es in co rre ctly applied to o ther sparkling wines. CHARCUTERIE:The preparation o f pork and o ther meat items, such as hams, terrines, sausages, pates, and other forcem eats. CHARCUTIERE:The person who prepares charcuterie items. A la charcutiere, meaning “in the style o f the butcher’s wife," refers to item s (usually grilled meat) th a t are served w ith sauce R obert and finished w ith a julienne o f gherkins. CHATEAUBRIAND: A cut o f meat from the th ick end o f the tenderloin. Traditionally cut th ick and served w ith chateau potatoes and bearnaise sauce. CHAUD-FROID: Literally, "hot-cold." A food prepared hot but served cold as p a rt o f a b u ffe t display, coated w ith brown

CHEF’S POTATO: All-purpose p o tato w ith a thin, speckled skin and waxy flesh. Used mainly fo r sauteing and boiling. CHEMICAL LEAVENER: An ingredient such as baking soda or com bination o f ingredients (baking powder) whose chemi­ cal action produces carbon dioxide gas. Used to leaven baked goods. CHERRYSTONE: A medium-size (less than 3 in/ 8 cm across the shell) hard-shell clam indigenous to the East Coast o f the United States; may be served raw or cooked. CHIFFON: A cake made by the foam ing method; contains a high percentage o f eggs and sugar and relative ly little , if any, fa t to produce a lig h t and airy cake. CHIFFONADE: Fine shreds o f leafy vegetables or herbs; often used as a garnish. CHILE: The fr u it o f certain types o f capsicum peppers (not related to black pepper), used fresh or dry as a seasoning. Chiles come in many va rietie s (e.g., jalapeno, serrano, poblano) and range in degrees o f spiciness. CHILI: A stewed dish o f beans and /o r meat, flavored w ith chili powder. CHILI POWDER: Ground or crushed dried chiles, o fte n w ith other ground spices and herbs added. CHINE: The backbone. A cut o f m eat th a t includes the back­ bone. Also, to separate the backbone and ribs to fa c ilita te carving. CHINOIS: A conical sieve w ith fine wire mesh, used to strain foods. CHOLESTEROL: A substance found exclusively in animal prod­ ucts such as meat, eggs, and cheese (dietary cholesterol) or in the blood (serum cholesterol). CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size. Also, a small cut o f m eat including p a rt o f the rib.

or w hite sauce, then glazed w ith aspic. CHOUCROUTE: Sauerkraut cooked w ith goose fa t, onions, ju n i­ CHEESECLOTH: A light, fine mesh gauze used fo r straining liquids and making sachets. CHEF DE PARTIE: S tation chef. In the brigade system, these are the line cook positions, such as saucier, grillardin, and

per berries, and w hite wine. Choucroute garni is sauerkraut garnished w ith various meats. CHOWDER: A th ick soup th a t may be made from a va rie ty o f ingredients but usually contains potatoes.

so fo rth . CIGUATERA TOXIN: A toxin found in certain fish (harmless to CHEF DE RANG: F ront w aiter. The w a ite r responsible fo r prop­

the fish) th a t causes illness in humans when eaten. The

erly set tables, proper delivery o f foods to a table, and

poisoning is caused by the fis h ’s d ie t and is not eradicated

m eeting the guests' needs. A dem i-chef de rang is a back

by cooking or freezing.

w a ite r or busboy. CIOPPINO: A fish stew usually made w ith w hite wine and to m a ­ CHEF DE SALLE: Headwaiter. Responsible fo r service through­ out the restaurant. May be covered by the m aitre d' or

toes, believed to have originated in Genoa and popularized by Italian im m igrants in San Francisco.

captain. CLARIFICATION:The process o f rem oving solid im purities from CHEF DE SERVICE: D ire ctor o f service.

a liquid such as b u tte r or stock. Also, a m ixture o f ground

CHEF DE VIN: Wine steward. Responsible fo r purchasingthe

meat, egg whites, m irepoix, to m a to puree, herbs, and

restaurant's wine, helping guests make wine selections, and se rving th e guests'w ine. Also known as the sommelier.

spices used to c la rify broth fo r consomme. CLARIFIED BUTTER: B u tte r fro m which the m ilk solids and wa­ te r have been removed, leaving pure b u tte rfa t. Has a higher smoke p o in t than whole b u tte r but less b u tte r flavor.

1170

G LO S S A R Y

COAGULATION:The curdling or clum ping o f proteins, usually due to the application o f heat or acid. COARSE CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size. Used fo r item s such as m irepoix, where appearance is not im portant. COCOA: The pods o f the cacao tree, processed to remove the cocoa b u tte r and ground into powder. Used as a flavoring. COCOTTE: Casserole. A cooking dish w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid fo r braising or stewing. Also, a small ramekin used fo r cooking eggs. En co co tte is o fte n interchangeable w ith en casserole. CODDLED EGGS: Eggs cooked b rie fly (about 30 seconds) in sim m ering w a te r in th e ir shells or in ramekins or special coddlers, ju s t u n til set. COLANDER: A p e rfo ra te d bowl, w ith or w ith o u t a base or legs, used to strain liquids or drain them fro m solids. COLLAGEN: A fib ro u s pro te in found in the connective tissue

CONFISERIE: Confectionery or candy. A confiseur is a patissier specializing in, and responsible for, the production o f can­ dies and related item s such as p e tits fours. CONFIT: M eat (usually goose, duck, or pork) cooked gently and preserved in its own fa t. CONSOMME: Broth th a t has been cla rifie d using a m ixture o f ground meat, egg whites, and o ther ingredients th a t trap im p uritie s to re su lt in a p e rfe ctly clear broth. CONVECTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat is trans­ m itte d through the circulation o f air or water. CONVECTION OVEN: An oven th a t employs convection cur­ rents by fo rcin g hot air through fans so it circulates around food, cooking it quickly and evenly. CONVERTED RICE: Rice th a t has been pressure-steam ed and dried before m illing to remove surface starch and retain nutrients. Also known as parboiled rice. COQUILLES ST. JACQUES: Scallops. Also, a dish o f broiled scal­

o f animals, used to make glue and gelatin. Breaks down

lops w ith a creamy wine sauce, gratineed and served in the

into gelatin when cooked in a m oist environm ent fo r an

shell.

extended period o f tim e. COMBINATION METHOD: A cooking m ethod th a t involves the application o f both dry and m oist heat to the main item

CORAL: L obster roe, which is red or coral-colored when cooked. CORNICHON: A small, sour pickled cucumber. O ften an accom­ panim ent to pates and smoked meats.

(e.g., m eats seared in fa t, then simmered in a sauce fo r braising or stewing).

CORNSTARCH: A fin e w h ite powder milled from dried corn; used prim a rily as a thickener fo r sauce and occasionally as

COMMIS: Apprentice. A cook who works under a chef de partie

an ingredient in batters.

to learn the sta tio n and its responsibilities. COTTAGE CHEESE: A fresh cheese made from the drained curd C0M MUNARD:The kitchen position responsible fo r preparing

o f soured cow's milk.

s ta ff meals. COULIS: A th ick puree o f vegetables or fru it, served hot or cold. COMPLETE PROTEIN: A fo o d source th a t provides all o f the es­ sential amino acids in the co rre ct ratio so they can be used

T raditionally refe rs to the thickened juices o f cooked meat, fish, or shellfish puree or certain th ick soups.

in the body fo r pro te in synthesis. May require more than one ingredient (such as beans and rice together).

COUNTRY-STYLE: A term used to describe forcem eat th a t is coarse in te xtu re , usually made from pork, pork fa t, liver,

COMPLEX CARBOHYDRATE: A large molecule made up o f long

and various garnishes.

chains o f sugar molecules. In food, these molecules are found in starches and fiber.

COURT BOUILLON: L iterally, "short broth." An arom atic veg­ etable b roth th a t usually includes an acidic ingredient such

COMPOSED SALAD: A salad in which the item s are carefully

as wine or vinegar; m ost commonly used fo r poaching fish.

arranged on a plate, rather than tossed together. COUSCOUS: Pellets o f semolina or cracked wheat usually COMPOTE: A dish o f fresh or dried fr u it cooked in syrup, fla ­ vored w ith spices or liqueur. Also, a type o f small dish. COMPOUND BUTTER: B u tte r combined w ith herbs or other seasonings. Usually used to sauce g rilled or broiled items,

cooked by steaming, tra d itio n a lly in a couscoussiere. Also, the stew w ith which this grain is tra d itio n a lly served. COUSCOUSSIERE: A set o f nesting pots, sim ilar to a steamer, used to cook couscous.

vegetables, or steamed dessert puddings. COUVERTURE: Fine sem isweet chocolate used fo r coating and CONCASSER: To pound or chop coarsely. Concasse usually refers to tom atoes th a t have been peeled, seeded, and

decorating, th a t is extrem ely glossy and smooth. Chocolate containing a m inimum o f 32 percent cocoa butter.

chopped. CREAM: The fa tty com ponent o f milk; available w ith various fa t CONDIMENT: An arom atic m ixture, such as pickles, chutney, and some sauces and relishes, th a t accompanies food. Usually kept on the table thro u g h o u t service. CONDUCTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n sfe r in which heat is tra n s m itte d through another substance. In cooking, when heat is tra n sm itte d to fo o d through a p o t or pan, oven racks, or g rill rods.

contents. Also, a m ixing method fo r b a tte rs and doughs in which the sugar and fa t are beaten to g eth e r until light and flu ffy before the o th er ingredients are added. CREAM CHEESE: S o ft unripened cheese derived from cow's m ilk, which m ust contain 33 percent m ilk fa t and 55 per­ cent or less m oisture. Used as a spread, a dip, in confec­ tions, and in dressings.

G LO S S A R Y

1171

CREAM OF TARTAR: A salt o f ta rta ric acid used extensively in

CURD: The sem isolid po rtio n o f m ilk once it coagulates and

baking, found in wine barrels a fte r fe rm e n tatio n . Used to

separates. Also, a sweet, creamy, pudding-like preparation

give s ta b ility and volume in whipping egg whites. O ften as

made o f fr u it juice (typica lly citrus), sugar, eggs, and butter.

the acid component in baking powder.

CURE: To preserve a food by salting, smoking, pickling, and/or drying.

CREAM PUFF: A pa stry made w ith pate a choux, fille d w ith creme patissiere, and usually glazed. Also called a

CURING SALT: A m ixture o f 94 percent table salt (sodium chlo­

p ro fite ro le .

ride) and 6 percent sodium n itrite , used to preserve meats. Also known as tin te d curing m ixture or TCM.

CREAM SOUP: Traditionally, a soup based on a bechamel sauce. Loosely, any soup finished w ith cream, a cream variant

CURRY: A m ixture o f spices, used p rim arily in Indian cuisine.

such as sour cream, or a liaison.

May include turm eric, coriander, cumin, cayenne or other chiles, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, fennel, fenugreek, gin­

CREME ANGLAISE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice

ger, and garlic. Also, a stew -like dish seasoned w ith curry. CUSTARD: A m ixture o f milk, beaten egg, and possibly other

cream. Also known as vanilla sauce.

ingredients such as sweet or savory flavorings, cooked w ith gentle heat, o fte n in a bain-marie, double boiler, or

CREME BROLEE: Literally, “burnt cream" a baked custard

w a te r bath.

topped w ith sugar th a t is caramelized before service. The caramelized sugar creates a dual-textured dessert w ith a so ft, creamy custard and a b rittle sugar topping. CREME FRAiCHE: Fleavy cream cultured to give it a th ick

d DAILY VALUES (DV): Standard n u tritio n a l values developed

consistency and a slig h tly tangy flavor. Used in hot prepa­

by the U.S. Food and Drug A d m in istra tio n fo r use on food

rations since it is less likely than sour cream or yogurt to

labels.

curdle when heated. CREME PATISSIERE: Literally, "pastry cream." A stirre d custard made w ith eggs, flo u r or o th e r starches, milk, sugar, and flavorings, used to fill and garnish pastries or as the base fo r souffles, creams, and mousses. CREOLE: This sophisticated typ e o f cooking is a combination o f French, Spanish, and A frican cuisines; signature ingre­ dients include butter, cream, tom atoes, file powder, green peppers, onions, and celery. Gumbo is a tra d itio n a l Creole dish.

DANGER ZONE: The tem perature range from 41° to 135°F/5° to 57°C; the m ost favorable condition fo r rapid grow th o f many pathogens. DANISH PASTRY: A pastry o f rich yeast dough w ith a b u tte r roll-in, possibly fille d w ith nuts, fru it, or o ther ingredients, and iced. DAUBE: A classic French stew o f meat, vegetables, and season­ ings braised in red wine, tra d itio n a lly cooked in a daubiere, a specialized casserole w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid and indenta­ tions to hold h o t coals.

CREPE: A thin pancake made w ith egg b a tter; used in sweet and savory preparations.

DEBEARD: To remove the shaggy, inedible fib e rs from a mussel. These fib e rs anchor the mussel to its mooring.

CROISSANT: A pastry consisting o f a yeast dough w ith a b u tte r roll-in, tra d itio n a lly form ed into a crescent shape. CROSS CONTAMINATION:The transference o f disease-causing

DECK OVEN: An oven in which the heat source is located under­ neath the deck or flo o r; food is placed d ire ctly on the deck instead o f on a rack.

elem ents from one source to another through physical contact. CROUSTADE: A small, edible baked or frie d container fo r meat,

DEEP FRY: To cook fo o d by immersion in hot fa t; deep-fried foods are o fte n coated w ith bread crumbs or b a tte r before cooking.

chicken, or other m ixtures; usually made from pastry but may be made fro m potatoes or pasta.

DEEP POACH: To cook fo o d gently in enough sim mering liquid to com pletely submerge the food.

CROUTE, EN: Encased in a bread or pastry crust and baked. DEGLAZE/DEGLACER:To use a liquid such as wine, water, or CROUTON: A bread or pastry garnish, cut into bite-size pieces and to a sted or sauteed u n til crisp. CRUMB: A te rm used to describe the te xtu re o f baked goods; fo r example, an item can be said to have a fine or coarse crumb. CRUSTACEAN: A class o f hard-shelled arthropods w ith elon­ gated bodies, p rim arily aquatic, th a t include edible species such as lobster, crab, shrimp, and crayfish. CUISSON: Shallow poaching liquid, including stock, fum et, or

1 172

stock to dissolve food p articles and/or caramelized d rip ­ pings le ft in a pan a fte r roasting or sauteing. The resulting mix then becomes the base fo r the accompanying sauce. DEGREASE/DEGRAISSER:To skim the fa t o ff the surface o f a liquid such as a stock or sauce. DEMI-GLACE: Literally, “half-glaze.” A m ixture o f equal pro­ portions o f brown stock and brown sauce th a t has been reduced by half. One o f the "grand" sauces. DEPOUILLAGE: Skim m ing the im p uritie s from the surface o f a

oth er liquid, th a t may be reduced and used as a base fo r

cooking liquid such as a stock or sauce. This action is sim ­

the poached item's sauce.

p lifie d by placing the p o t o ff center on the burner (convec­

G LO S S A R Y

tion simmer) and rem oving im purities as they co lle ct a t one side o f the pot. DEVILING: Seasoning meat, poultry, or oth er fo o d w ith mus­ tard, vinegar, and possibly oth er hot and spicy seasonings, such as red pepper and Tabasco. DICE:To cut ingredients into evenly sized small cubes (% in /6 mm fo r small, V 2 in /1 cm fo r medium, and 3/ 4 in / 2 cm fo r large are the standards).

DIE: The plate in a m eat grinder through which fo o d passes ju s t before a blade cuts it. The size o f the die's opening d e te r­ mines the fineness o f the grind. DIGESTIF: A s p irit usually consumed a fte r dining as an aid to digestion. Examples include brandy and cognac. DIRECT HEAT: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat waves

ECLAIR: A long, thin baked shell o f pate a choux, fille d w ith creme patissiere and glazed w ith chocolate fondant or ganache. EDIBLE-PORTION (EP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item a fte r trim m in g and preparation (as opposed to the as-purchased [APJ weight). EGG WASH: A m ixture o f beaten eggs (whole eggs, yolks, or w hites) and a liquid, usually m ilk or water, used to coat baked goods to give them a sheen. EMINCER:To cut an item , usually meat, into very thin slices. EMULSION: A m ixture o f tw o or more liquids, one o f which is a fa t or oil and the o ther o f which is w a te r based, so th a t tin y globules o f one are suspended in the other.

radiate fro m a source (e.g., an open burner or g rill) and

This may involve the use o f stabilizers such as egg or

tra v e l d ire c tly to the item being heated w ith no conductor

m ustard. Emulsions may be tem porary, permanent, or

between heat source and food. Examples are grilling, b ro il­

semiperm anent.

ing, and toasting. Also known as radiant heat. DOCK: To cut the to p o f dough before baking to allow steam

ENDOSPERM: The largest po rtio n o f the inside o f the seed o f a flo w e ring plant such as wheat; composed prim arily o f

to escape to co n tro l the expansion o f the dough a nd/or to

starch and protein. This is the po rtio n used p rim arily in

create a decorative e ffe c t.

m illed grain products.

DORE: Coated w ith egg yolk or cooked to a golden brown. DRAWN: Describes a whole fish th a t has been g u tted but s till has its head, fins, and ta il. Also refe rs to cla rifie d butter. DREDGE: To coat fo o d w ith a dry ingredient such as flo u r or bread crumbs p rio r to fry in g or sauteing. DRESSED: Prepared fo r cooking. A dressed fish is g u tted and scaled, and its head, ta il, and fin s are removed (also called pan-dressed). Dressed p o u ltry is plucked, gutted, singed, trim m ed, and trussed. Also, coated w ith dressing, as a salad. DRUM SIEVE: A sieve consisting o f a screen stretched across a shallow cylinder o f wood or aluminum. Also known as a tamis. DRY CURE: A com bination o f salts and spices used to preserve meats; o fte n used before sm oking to process meats and forcem eats. DRY SAUTE: To saute w ith o u t fa t, usually using a nonstick pan.

ENTRECOTE: Literally, "between the ribs.” A very tender steak cut fro m between the ninth and eleventh ribs o f beef. ENTREMETIER: Vegetable ch e f/sta tio n .T h e position responsi­ ble fo r hot appetizers and o fte n soups, vegetables, starch­ es, and pastas: may also be responsible fo r egg dishes. ESCALOPE: A scallop o f meat; th is cut o f a small, boneless piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness is m ost often sauteed. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE: Literally, “ Spanish sauce." Brown sauce made w ith brown stock, caramelized m irepoix, to m a to pu­ ree, seasonings, and roux. ESSENCE: A concentrated fla vo rin g extracted from an item, usually by infusion or d istilla tio n . Includes item s such as vanilla and o th er e xtracts, concentrated stocks, and fum ets. ESTOUFFADE: A French stew o f wine-m oistened pieces o f meat. Also, a typ e o f rich brown stock based on pork knuck­ le and veal and beef bones, o fte n used in braises.

DUMPLING: Any o f a number o f sm all s o ft dough or b a tte r item s, which are steamed, poached, or simmered (possibly on to p o f a stew), baked, pan frie d , or deep frie d . May be fille d or plain. DURUM: A very hard w heat ty p ica lly m illed into semolina, p ri­ m arily used in making pasta.

ETHYLENE GAS: A gas e m itte d by various fru its and vegeta­ bles, th a t speeds ripening, maturing, and eventually rotting. ETOUFFEE: Literally, "smothered." Refers to fo o d cooked by a m ethod sim ilar to braising, except th a t item s are cooked w ith little or no added liquid in a pan w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid (also etuver, a I'etuvee). Also, a Cajun dish made w ith a dark

DUST: To d is trib u te a film o f flour, sugar, cocoa powder, or o ther such ingredients on pans or w ork surfaces, on a fo o d be­

roux, crayfish, vegetables, and seasonings, served over a bed o f w h ite rice.

fo re cooking, or on finished products as a garnish. EVAPORATED MILK: Unsweetened canned milk from which 60 DUTCH OVEN: A ke ttle , usually o f cast iron, used fo r stewing and braising on the stovetop or in the oven. DUTCH PROCESS: A m ethod o f tre a tin g cocoa powder w ith an alkali to reduce its acidity. DUXELLES: An appareil o f fin e ly chopped mushrooms and shal­

percent o f the w a te r has been removed before canning. O ften used in custards and to create a creamy te xtu re in food. EXTRUDER: A machine used to shape dough. The dough is pushed o u t through p e rfo ra te d plates rather than rolled.

lots sauteed g ently in butter. Used as a stu ffin g , garnish, or as a fla vo rin g in soups and sauces. GLOSSARY

1173

f

FOIE GRAS: The fa tte n e d liver o f a duck or goose th a t has been

FABRICATION: The butchering, cutting, and trim m in g o f meat, poultry, fish, and game (large pieces or whole) into sm aller cuts to prepare them to be cooked. FACULTATIVE BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t can survive both w ith and w ith o u t oxygen.

fo rce -fe d over a fo u r- to five-m onth period. FOLD: To g ently combine ingredients (especially foams) so as not to release trapped a ir bubbles. Also, to gently mix to ­ ge the r tw o item s, usually a light, airy m ixture w ith a denser m ixture. Also, the m ethod o f turning, rolling, and layering dough over on its e lf to produce a fla k y texture.

FARCE: Literally, "s tu ffin g " in French. A fo rce m e a t or stu ffin g . FOND: The French te rm fo r stock. Also, the pan drippings re­ FARINA: A fin e w heat meal th a t can be eaten as a breakfast cereal when cooked in boiling water, used in puddings, or

maining a fte r sauteing or roasting food, o fte n deglazed and used as a base fo r sauces.

used as a thickener. FONDANT: A w h ite paste made fro m liquid (usually w ater or FAT: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body to provide en­ ergy. Fats carry fla vo r in fo o d and give a fe e lin g o f fullness. FATBACK: Pork fa t from the back o f the pig, used prim a rily fo r barding, and also to make lard and cracklings. FERMENTATION: The process o f yeast acting to break down

corn syrup) and sugar, th a t has been dissolved, heated, and agita te d during cooling. Used as a fillin g and glaze fo r pas­ trie s and confections. FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS: An illness in humans caused by the consumption o f an adulterated food product. For an o f­

sugars into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol, which is es­

fic ia l d eterm ination th a t an outbreak o f food-borne illness

sential in bread leavening and beer, wine, and s p irit making.

has occurred, tw o or more people m ust have become ill

Also, the period o f rising in yeast doughs. FIBER/DIETARY FIBER: The stru ctu ra l component o f plants, necessary to the human diet. Indigestible. Also refe rre d to as roughage. FILE: A thickener made fro m ground dried sassafras leaves; used p rim arily in gumbo. FILET MIGNON:The expensive boneless cut o f beef fro m the small end o f the tenderloin. FILLET/FILET: A boneless cut o f meat, fish, or poultry.

a fte r eating the same food, and the outbreak m ust be con­ firm e d by health o fficia ls. FOOD COST: Cost o f all fo o d purchased to prepare item s fo r sale in a restaurant. FOOD MILL: A strain e r w ith a crank-operated curved blade, used to puree s o ft foods while straining them. FOOD PROCESSOR: A machine w ith interchangeable blades and disks and a removable bowl and lid separate from the m oto r housing. Can be used fo r a va rie ty o f tasks including chopping, grinding, pureeing, em ulsifying, kneading, slicing,

FINES HERBES: A m ixture o f herbs, usually parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives. Generally added to the dish ju s t p rior to serving, as they lose th e ir fla vo r quickly. FIRST IN, FIRST OUT (FIFO): A fundam ental storage principle based on stock ro ta tio n . Products are stored and used so th a t the oldest product is always used firs t. FISH POACHER: A long, narrow po t w ith stra ig h t sides and pos­ sibly a p e rforated rack, used fo r poaching whole fish. FIVE-SPICE POWDER: A m ixture o f equal parts ground cin­ namon, clove, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechwan peppercorns. FLAT FISH: A type o f fish characterized by its fla t body and having both eyes on one side o f its head (e.g., sole, plaice, flounder, and halibut). FLATTOP: A th ick plate o f cast iron or steel se t over the heat source on a range; d iffu ses heat, m aking it more even than an open burner. FLEURONS: Garnishes made from lig h t p u ff pa stry cut into oval, diamond, or crescent shapes and served w ith meat, fish, or soup. FLORENTINE, A LA: Dishes prepared in the style o f Florence, Italy; denotes the use o f spinach and som etim es Mornay sauce or cheese. FOAMING MIXING METHOD: A method o f producing b a tters in which the main stru ctu ra l com ponent is a m ixture o f eggs (whole and /o r separated yolks and w hites) and sugar, whipped to incorporate large q u a ntitie s o f air.

1174

G LO S S A R Y

shredding, and c u ttin g into julienne. FORCEMEAT: An emulsion o f chopped or ground meat, fa t, and a binder, used fo r pates, sausages, and oth er preparations. The fo u r types are mousseline, straight, country-style, and gratin. FORK-TENDER: A degree o f doneness in braised foods and vegetables; fo rk -te n d e r foods are easily pierced or cut by a fo rk, or should slide readily fro m a fo rk when lifte d . FORMULA: A recipe in which m easurements fo r each ingredi­ ent are given as percentages o f the weight fo r the main ingredient. FORTIFIED WINE: Wine to which a sp irit, usually brandy, has been added (e.g., Marsala, Madeira, port, or sherry). FREE-RANGE: Refers to livestock th a t is raised unconfined. FRENCH:To cut and scrape m eat from rib bones before cooking. FRICASSEE: A stew o f po u ltry or other w hite m eat w ith a w hite sauce. FRITTER: Sweet or savory fo o d coated or mixed into b a tte r and deep frie d . Also called beignet. FRITURIER: Fry ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all frie d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position. FRUCTOSE: A sim ple sugar found in fru its . Fructose is the sw eetest simple sugar.

FUMET: A typ e o f stock in which the main fla vo rin g ingredient

GRAND SAUCE: Any o f several basic sauces used in the prepa­

is allowed to cook in a lidded p o t w ith wine and arom atics.

ration o f many o th er sm all sauces. The grand sauces are

Fish fu m e t is the m ost common type.

demi-glace, veloute, bechamel, hollan-daise, and tom ato. Also called “m other" sauce.

g

GRATIN: A cheese or bread crumb topping browned in an oven or under a salamander (au gratin, gratin de). Also refers to

GALANTINE: Boned m eat (usually poultry), s tu ffe d w ith fo rc e ­

a fo rce m e a t in which some portion o f the dom inant meat is

meat, rolled, poached, and served cold, usually coated w ith

sauteed and cooled before it is ground.

aspic. GANACHE: A preparation o f chocolate and heavy cream, and

GRAVLAX: Raw salmon cured w ith salt, sugar, and fresh dill. A dish o f Scandinavian origin, o fte n accompanied by mustard

som etim es butter, sugar, and o ther flavorings. Among o th ­

and d ill sauce.

er things, it is used as a sauce, glaze, and fillin g , or to make confections. Can range fro m s o ft to hard, depending on the

GRIDDLE: A heavy m etal cooking surface, which may be fitte d w ith handles, b u ilt into a stove, or heated by its own gas or

ratio o f chocolate to cream.

ele ctric elem ent. Cooking is done d ire ctly on the griddle.

GARBURE: A th ick vegetable soup, usually containing beans, cabbage, and /o r potatoes.

GRILL: To cook fo o ds by a radiant heat source placed below the food. Also, the piece o f equipm ent on which grillin g is done;

GARDE MANGER: Pantry ch e f/sta tio n . The position respon­

may be fueled by gas, e le ctricity, charcoal, or wood.

sible fo r cold food preparation, including salads, a ppetiz­ ers, and pates.

GRILLARDIN: G rill ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all g rille d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position.

GARNI: Literally, "garnished.” Used to describe dishes accompa­ nied by vegetables and potatoes.

GRILL PAN: A s k ille t w ith ridges, used on the stovetop to simu­ late grilling.

GARNISH: An edible decoration or accompanim ent to a dish or item. GAZPACHO: A cold soup made fro m vegetables, typ ica lly to m a ­

GRISSINI:Thin, crisp breadsticks. GRISWOLD: A pot, sim ilar to a rondeau, made o f cast iron; may have a single short handle rather than the usual loop

toes, cucumbers, peppers, and onions.

handles.

GELATIN: A protein-based substance found in animal bones and connective tissue. When dissolved in hot liquid and then

GUMBO: A Creole so up/stew thickened w ith file or okra, fla ­ vored w ith a va rie ty o f m eats and fishes and dark roux.

cooled, it can be used as a thickener and stabilizer.

starch, in which the starch molecules swell to fo rm a n e t­

h

work th a t trap s w a te r molecules.

HARICOT: L iterally, “ bean." Haricots verts are green beans.

GELATION: A phase in the process o f thickening a liquid w ith

GENOISE: A lig h t cake, made using the foam ing mixing method, containing flour, sugar, eggs, butter, vanilla, and /o r other flavorings. GERM:The p o rtio n o f the seed o f flo w e ring plants, such as

HASH: Chopped, cooked meat, usually w ith p otatoes and/or o ther vegetables, seasoned, bound w ith a sauce, and sau­ teed. Also, to chop into small irregular pieces. HAZARD ANALYSIS CRITICAL CONTROL POINT (HACCP):

wheat, th a t sprouts to fo rm a new plant; the embryo o f the

A m on ito rin g system used to track foods fro m the tim e

new plant.

th a t they are received un til they are served to consum­

GHERKIN: A small pickled cucumber. GIBLETS: Organs and o th er trim fro m poultry, including the liver, heart, gizzard, and neck, used to fla vo r stocks and soups. GLACE: Reduced stock. Also, ice cream.

ers, to ensure th a t the foods are free from contam ination. Standards and controls are established fo r tim e and te m ­ perature, as w ell as safe handling practices. HEIMLICH MANEUVER: F irst aid fo r choking, involving the ap­ plication o f sudden upward pressure on the upper abdomen to fo rce a fo re ig n object fro m the windpipe.

GLACE: L iterally, "glazed” or iced. Icing. HIGH-RATIO CAKE: A cake in which the b a tte r includes a high GLAZE: To give an item a shiny surface by brushing or o th e r­

percentage o f sugar in relation to oth er ingredients.

wise coating it w ith sauce, aspic, icing, or another appareil. For meat, to coat w ith sauce and then brown in an oven or salamander.

HOLLANDAISE: A classic emulsion sauce made w ith a vinegar reduction, egg yolks, and m elted butter, flavored w ith lemon juice. One o f the “grand" sauces.

GLUCOSE: A sim ple sugar found in honey, some fru its , and many vegetables. It has about half the sweetness o f table sugar and is the pre fe rre d source o f energy fo r the human body. GLUTEN: A pro te in present in w heat flo u r th a t develops through hydration and m ixing to fo rm elastic strands th a t build structu re and aid in leavening.

HOLLOW-GROUND: A type o f knife blade made by fusing two sheets o f m etal and beveling or flu tin g the edge. HOMINY: Corn th a t has been m illed or tre a te d w ith a lye solu­ tio n to remove the bran and germ. Ground hominy is known as grits.

GLOSSARY

1175

HOMOGENIZATION: A process used to prevent the m ilk fa t fro m separating o u t o f m ilk products. The liquid is forced through an u ltra fin e mesh at high pressure, which breaks up fa t globules and disperses them evenly throughout the liquid. HORS D’OEUVRE: L ite ra lly,"o u tsid e the work." An appetizer. HOTEL PAN: A rectangular m etal pan, in a number o f standard sizes, w ith a lip th a t allows it to re st on a storage shelf or in a steam table. HYDROGENATION: The process in which hydrogen atoms are added to an unsaturated fa t molecule, mak­ ing it p a rtia lly or com pletely saturated and solid a t room tem perature. HYDROPONICS: A technique fo r growing vegetables in n u tri­ ent-enriched w a te r rather than in soil. HYGIENE: Conditions and practices follow ed to maintain health, including sa nitation and personal cleanliness.

k KASHA: Buckwheat groats th a t have been hulled, crushed, and roasted; usually prepared by boiling. KNEAD: To work or m ix a dough by hand to soften it to working consistency, or to stretch yeasted doughs to expand th e ir gluten. KOSHER: Prepared in accordance w ith Jewish die ta ry laws. KOSHER SALT: Pure, refined salt, also known as coarse salt or pickling salt. Used fo r pickling because it does not contain magnesium carbonate and thus does not cloud brine solu­ tions. Also used to kosher m eats and poultry.

1 LACTOSE: The simple sugar found in milk. This disaccharide is the least sweet o f the natural sugars. LAMINATE: To fo ld and ro ll a dough to g eth e r w ith a roll-in fa t to create a lte rn a tin g layers o f fa t and dough; used to create p u ff pastry, Danish, and croissants.

1

LARD: Rendered pork fa t; used in pastry and fo r frying. Also,

INDUCTION BURNER: A typ e o f heating unit th a t relies on mag­

to in se rt sm all strip s o f fa tb ack in to naturally lean meats

netic a ttra c tio n between the cooktop and m etals in the pot

before roasting or braising. The process is done using a

to generate the heat th a t cooks fo o ds in the pan. Reaction

larding needle.

tim e is sig n ifica n tly fa s te r than w ith tra d itio n a l burners. INFECTION: Contam ination by a disease-causing agent such as a bacterium . INFUSION: Steeping an arom atic or o th e r item in liquid to ex­ tra c t its flavor. Also, the liquid resulting from th is process. INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER: A th e rm o m e te r used to measure the internal tem perature o f foods. The stem is inserted in the food, producing an im m ediate tem perature readout. INTOXICATION: Poisoning; a sta te o f being ta in te d w ith toxins, p a rticu la rly those produced by a m icroorganism th a t has in fe cted food. INVENTORY: An item ized lis t o f goods and equipm ent on hand, to g e th e r w ith the estim ated w orth or cost. INVERT SUGAR: A sugar th a t is a m ixture o f dextrose and fru c ­ tose, which w ill not easily crystallize. These sugars can oc­ cur naturally or be created by boiling sucrose w ith an acid.

LARDON/LARDOON: A s trip o f fa t used fo r larding; may be sea­ soned. Also, bacon th a t has been diced, blanched, and fried. LEAVENER: Any ingredient or process th a t produces gas and causes the rising o f baked goods. Can be chemical (baking powder), mechanical (folding in air in whipped egg whites), or biological (yeast). LECITHIN: An e m u lsifier found in eggs and soybeans. LEGUME:The seeds o f certain pod plants, including beans and peas, which are eaten fo r th e ir earthy fla vo rs and high nu­ tritio n a l value. Also, the French word fo r vegetable. LI AISON: A m ixture o f egg yolks and cream used to thicken and enrich sauces. Also loosely applied to any appareil used as a thickener. LIQUEUR: A s p irit fla vo re d w ith fru it, spices, nuts, herbs, and/ or seeds and usually sweetened. Also known as cordials, liqueurs o fte n have a high alcohol content, a viscous body, and a s lig h tly s ticky feel. LITTLENECK: Small hard-shell clams, o fte n eaten raw on the half shell; sm aller than a cherrystone clam (less than 2 in/5

)

cm in diameter).

JARDINIERE: A m ixture o f vegetables.

LOW-FAT MILK: M ilk containing less than 2 percent fa t.

JULIENNE: Vegetables, potatoes, or o ther item s cut into thin

LOX: Cold-smoked salt-cured salmon.

strips; Vs in by Vs in by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm is standard. Fine julienne is V i 6 in by V i 6 in by 1 to 2 in/1.5 mm by 1.5 mm by 3 to 5 cm.

LOZENGE CUT: A knife cut in which fo o ds are cut into small diamond shapes V>in by V iin by Vs in/1 cm by 1 cm by 3 mm thick.

JUS: Literally, “juice.” Refers to fr u it and vegetable juices as well as juices fro m meats. Jus de viande is m eat gravy. M eat served au jus is served w ith its own juice or a jus lie.

LYONNAISE: Food cooked in the style o f Lyons; Lyonnaise po­ ta to e s are sauteed w ith onions and butter. Also refers to a sauce made w ith onions and usually butter, w hite wine,

JUS LIE: M eat juice thickened lig h tly w ith a rro w ro ot or cornstarch.

GLOSSARY

vinegar, and demi-glace.

fish, is dusted w ith flour, sauteed, and served w ith a sauce MACAROON: Small cookie o f nut paste (typica lly almond or coconut), sugar, and egg white. MADEIRA: A Portuguese fo rtifie d wine, tre a te d w ith heat as it ages to give it a d istin ctive fla v o r and brownish color. MAILLARD REACTION: A complex browning reaction th a t re­ sults in the p a rticu la r fla vo r and color o f fo o ds th a t do not contain much sugar, including roasted meats. The reaction, which involves carbohydrates and amino acids, is named a fte r the French scie n tist who f ir s t discovered it. There are low -tem perature and high-tem perature M aillard reactions; the high-tem perature reaction s ta rts a t 310°F/154°C. MAITRE D’HOTEL: Dining room manager or food and beverage manager, in fo rm a lly called maTtre d! This position oversees

o f beurre n oisette, lemon juice, and parsley. MICROWAVE OVEN: A cooking device in which electrom agnetic waves (sim ilar to radio waves) generated by a device called a m agnetron penetrate fo o d and cause the w a te r m ol­ ecules in it to oscillate. This rapid molecular m otion gener­ ates heat th a t cooks the food. MIE: The s o ft p a rt o f bread (not the crust); mie de pain is fresh w h ite bread crumbs. MILL: To separate grain in to germ /husk, bran, and endosperm, and grind it into flo u r or meal. MILLET: A small, round, glutenless grain. May be boiled or ground into flour. MINCE: To chop into very sm all pieces.

the dining room a n d /o r the fro n t- of-house s ta ff. Also, a compound b u tte r fla vo re d w ith chopped parsley and lemon juice.

MINERAL: An inorganic elem ent th a t is an essential component o f the diet. Provides no energy and is th e re fo re referred to as a noncaloric n utrient. The body cannot produce minerals;

MANDOLINE: A slicing device o f pla stic or stainless steel w ith

they m ust be obtained fro m the diet.

carbon steel blades. M ost models have blades th a t may be adjusted to cut item s into various shapes and thicknesses.

MINESTRONE: A hearty vegetable soup; typ ica lly includes dried beans and pasta.

MARBLING: The intram uscular fa t found in m eat th a t makes it te n de r and juicy.

MINUTE,

ALA: L ite ra lly ,“ at the minute." A restaurant produc­

tio n approach in which a dish is not prepared un til an order MARINADE: An appareil used before cooking to fla v o r and

arrives in the kitchen.

m oisten foods; may be liquid or dry. Liquid marinades are usually based on an acidic ingredient such as wine or vin­ egar; dry marinades are usually salt based.

MIREPOIX: A com bination o f chopped arom atic vegetables (usually tw o parts onion, one pa rt carrot, and one p a rt cel­ ery) used to fla v o r stocks, soups, braises, and stews.

MARK ON A GRILL: To tu rn a fo o d (w ith o u t flip p in g it over) 90 degrees a fte r it has been on the g rill fo r several seconds to create th e cross-hatching associated w ith grille d foods.

MISE EN PLACE: L iterally, “p u t in place."The preparation and assembly o f ingredients, pans, utensils, and plates or serv­ ing pieces needed fo r a p a rticu la r dish or service period.

MARZIPAN: A paste o f ground almonds, sugar, and som etim es egg w hites used to fill, cover, and decorate pastries.

MODE, A LA: Lite ra lly, "in the style o f" (often follow ed by de plus a d escriptive phrase). Boeuf a la mode is braised beef;

MATELOTE: A French fish stew tra d itio n a lly made w ith eel

pie a la mode is served w ith ice cream.

or oth er fre sh w a te r fish and fla vo re d w ith wine and arom atics.

MOLASSES: The dark brown, sweet syrup th a t is a by-product o f sugarcane and sugar beet refining. Molasses is available

MATIGNON: An edible m irepoix, o fte n used in poeleed dishes and usually served w ith the finished dish. Typically, m ati-

as lig h t (the least cooked but sweetest), dark, and black­ strap (the m ost cooked and m ost b itte r).

gnon includes tw o parts carrot, one pa rt celery, one part leek, one p a rt onion, one p a rt mushroom (optional), and one p a rt ham or bacon.

MOLLUSK: Any o f a number o f invertebrate animals w ith so ft, unsegmented bodies usually enclosed in a hard shell. M ollusks include gastropods (univalves), bivalves, and

MAYONNAISE: A cold emulsion o f oil, egg yolks, vinegar, mus­ tard, and seasonings, used as a dressing, a spread, or a

cephalopods; examples include clams, oysters, snails, o cto ­ pus, and squid.

base fo r a d ditional sauces. MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE (MSG): A fla vo r enhancer derived MECHANICAL LEAVENER: A ir incorporated into a b a tte r or dough to act as a rising agent. MEDALLION: A small, round scallop o f meat. MERINGUE: Egg w hites beaten w ith sugar until they stiffe n . Types include regular or common, Italian, and Swiss. MESOPHILIC: A te rm used to describe bacteria th a t th rive in tem peratures between 60° and 1 00°F /16° and 38°C. METABOLISM: The sum o f chemical processes in living cells by which energy is provided and new m aterial is assim ilated.

fro m glutam ic acid, w ith o u t a d is tin c t fla vo r o f its own; used prim a rily in Chinese cuisine and processed foods. May cause allergic reactions in some people. MONOUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t w ith one available bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. Helpful in lowering the LDL cholesterol level (the bad cholesterol). Food sources include avocados, olives, and nuts. MONTE AU BEURRE: Literally, “lifte d w ith butter." Refers to a technique used to fin ish sauces, thicken them slightly, and give them a glossy appearance by whisking or sw irling

MEUNIERE, A LA: French fo r "in the style o f the m ille r’s wife." Refers to a cooking technique in which the item, generally

whole b u tte r into the sauce un til m elted.

G LO S S A R Y

1177

MOUSSE: A foam made w ith beaten egg w hites and /o r whipped cream folded into a fla vo re d base appareil. May be sweet or savory. MOUSSELINE: A mousse. Also, a sauce made by fo lding whipped cream in to hollandaise. Also, a very lig h t fo rc e ­

OIGNON PIQUE: L ite ra lly,"p ricked onionl’ A whole peeled onion to which a bay le a f is attached, using a clove as a tack. Used to fla vo r bechamel sauce and some soups. OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS: Polyunsaturated fa tty acids th a t may reduce the risk o f heart disease and tu m o r growth, stim u ­

meat based on w hite m eat or seafood lightened w ith cream

late the immune system, and lower blood pressure; they

and eggs.

occur in fa tty fish, dark green leafy vegetables, and certain nuts and oils.

n

OMELET: Beaten egg, cooked in b u tte r in a specialized pan or

NAPOLEON: A pastry tra d itio n a lly made o f layered p u ff pas­ tr y rectangles fille d w ith pastry cream and glazed w ith fondant. NAPPE: To coat w ith sauce. Also, thickened. Also, the consis­ tency o f a sauce th a t w ill coat the back o f a spoon. NATURE: French fo r "ungarnished" or “ plain.” Pommes natures are boiled potatoes.

skillet, then rolled or folded into an oval. Omelets may be fille d w ith a va rie ty o f ingredients before or a fte r rolling. ORGANIC LEAVENER: Yeast. A living organism acting to pro­ duce carbon dioxide gas, which w ill cause a b a tte r or dough to rise through the fe rm e n tatio n process. ORGAN MEAT: M eat fro m an organ, rather than the muscle tissue o f an animal. Includes brains, heart, kidneys, lungs, sweetbreads, trip e , and tongue.

NAVARIN: A French stew, tra d itio n a lly o f lamb, w ith potatoes, turnips, onions, and possibly o ther vegetables.

OVEN SPRING: The rapid in itia l rise o f yeast doughs when placed in a hot oven. Heat accelerates the grow th o f the

NEW POTATO: Any small young p o tato less than I V 2 in /4 cm in diameter, usually prepared by boiling or steaming, and

yeast, which produces more carbon dioxide gas, and also causes th is gas to expand.

o fte n eaten w ith its skin. The new p o ta to has not ye t con­ verted its sugar into starch, creating a waxy p o tato w ith a thin skin. NOISETTE: Hazelnut or hazelnut colored. Also, a small portion o f meat cut from the rib. Pommes no ise tte are tourneed p otatoes browned in butter. Beurre no ise tte is browned butter. NONBONY FISH: Fish whose skeletons are made o f cartilage rather than hard bone (e.g., shark, skate). Also called c a rti­ laginous fish. NOUVELLE CUISINE: Literally, “new cooking." A culinary move­ m ent emphasizing freshness and lightness o f ingredients, natural fla vo rs sim ply prepared, and innovative com bina­ tio n s and presentation. NUTRIENT: A basic com ponent o f fo o d used by the body fo r

PAELLA: A dish o f rice cooked w ith onion, tom ato, garlic, veg­ etables, and various meats, fish, or shellfish. A paella pan is a specialized pan; it is wide and shallow and usually has two loop handles. PAILLARD: A scallop o f meat pounded u n til thin; usually grilled or sauteed. PALETTE KNIFE: A small, long, narrow m etal spatula w ith a rounded tip . May be tapered or straight, o ffs e t or fla t. PAN BROILING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to dry sauteing th a t sim ulates b roiling by cooking an item in a hot pan w ith little or no fa t. PAN DRESSED: Portion-size whole fish w ith the guts, gills,

grow th, repair, restoration, and energy. Includes carbohy­

and scales removed. The fin s and ta il may or may not be

drates, fa ts, proteins, water, vitam ins, and minerals.

trim m ed or removed.

NUTRITION: The process by which an organism takes in and uses food.

PAN FRY: To cook in fa t in a skillet; generally involves more fa t than sauteing or s tir-fry in g but less than deep frying. PAN GRAVY: A sauce made by deglazing pan drippings from a

o

roa st and combining them w ith a roux or o ther starch and

OBLIQUE CUT/ROLL CUT: A knife cut used prim a rily fo r long, cylindrical vegetables such as carrots, in which the item is cut on a diagonal, rolled 180 degrees, then cut on the same diagonal to produce a piece w ith tw o angled edges. OFFAL: Edible entrails and extre m itie s; v a rie ty meats, including organs (brains, heart, kidneys, lungs, sweetbreads, tripe , tongue), head meat, ta il, and fe e t. OFFSET SPATULA: A hand to o l w ith a wide, bent blade set in a sh o rt handle, used to tu rn or lif t foods fro m grills, broilers, or griddles. OIGNON BRULE: L iterally, “b urnt onion." A peeled, halved onion seared on a fla tto p or in a skillet, used to enhance the color o f stock and consomme.

GLOSSARY

additional stock. PAN STEAM: To cook foods in a very small amount o f liquid in a covered pan over dire ct heat. PAPILLOTE, EN: A m oist-h e a t cooking method sim ilar to steaming, in which item s are enclosed in parchm ent and cooked in the oven. PARCHMENT: H e a t-re sista n t paper used to line baking pans, enclose item s to cook en papillote, and cover item s during shallow poaching. PARCOOK: To p a rtia lly cook an item before sto rin g or finishing. PARISIENNE SCOOP: A small to o l used fo r scooping balls out o f vegetables or fru its and fo r po rtio n in g tr u ffle ganache among oth er preparations. Also called a melon bailer.

PAR STOCK: The amount o f fo o d and o th er supplies necessary to cover operating needs between deliveries. PASTA: Literally, "dough” or"paste." Noodles made fro m a dough

PHYSICAL LEAVENER: The steam or air trapped in a dough th a t expands and causes the item to rise. PHYTOCHEMICALS: N aturally occurring compounds in

o f flo u r (ofte n semolina) and w a te r or eggs, kneaded,

plant fo o ds th a t have a ntioxidant and disease-fighting

rolled, and cut or extruded, then cooked by boiling.

properties.

PASTEURIZATION: A process in which m ilk products are heated to k ill m icroorganism s th a t could contam inate the milk. PASTRY BAG: A bag, usually made o f plastic, canvas, or nylon, th a t can be fitte d w ith plain or decorative tip s and used to pipe out icings and pureed foods. PATE: Noodles or pasta. Also, dough, paste, or b a tte r (as in pate brisee). PATE: A rich forcem eat o f meat, game, poultry, seafood, and/or vegetables, baked in pa stry or in a mold or dish and served hot or cold. PATE A CHOUX: Cream p u ff batter, made by boiling w a te r or milk, butter, and flour, then beating in whole eggs. When baked, pate a choux p u ffs to fo rm a hollowed pastry shell th a t can be fille d . PATE BRISEE: A sh o rt p a stry used to create crusts fo r pie crusts, ta rts , and quiches. PATE DE CAMPAGNE: C ountry-style pate w ith a coarse texture, made o f pork b u tt, chicken livers, garlic, onion, and parsley, flavored w ith brandy. PATE EN CROOt E: A pate baked in a pastry crust. PATE FEUILLETEE: P u ff pastry.

PICKLING SPICE: A m ixture o f herbs and spices used to season pickles. O ften includes dill weed and/or seed, coriander seed, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and bay leaves, among others. PILAF: A technique fo r cooking grains in which the grain is sau­ teed b rie fly in butter, then sim mered in stock or w ater w ith seasonings u n til the liquid is absorbed. Also called pilau, pilaw, pullao, pilav. PINCE: Refers to an item , usually a to m a to product, caramel­ ized by sauteing. PLUCHES: Whole herb leaves connected to a small b it o f stem; o fte n used as a garnish. Also called sprigs. POACH: To cook g ently in sim m ering liquid a t 160° to 1 8 5 °F /7 1 °to 85°C. POELE: Refers to fo o d cooked in its own juices (usually w ith the addition o f a m atignon, o th er arom atics, and m elted b u t­ te r) in a covered pot, usually in the oven. Also called b u tte r roasting. POISSONIER: Fish ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r fish item s and th e ir sauces; may be combined w ith the saucier position. POLENTA: Cornmeal mush cooked in sim m ering liquid u n til the grains so fte n and the liquid is absorbed. Can be eaten hot

PATE SUCREE: A sweet sh o rt pa stry used fo r pies, ta rts, and

or cold, firm or so ft.

fille d cookies. POLYUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith more than one PATFIOGEN: A disease-causing m icroorganism. PATISSIER: Pastry ch e f/sta tio n . This position is responsible fo r baked item s, pastries, and desserts. O ften a separate area o f the kitchen. PAUPIETTE: A fille t or scallop o f fish or meat, rolled up around a s tu ffin g and poached or braised. PAYSANNE/FERMIER CUT: A knife cut in which the item is cut into fla t, square pieces V 2 in by V 2 in by Vs in / 1 cm by 1 cm by 3 mm. PEEL: A paddle used to tra n s fe r shaped doughs to a hearth or deck oven. Also, to remove the skin fro m a fo o d item. PESTO: A th ic k pureed m ixture o f an herb, tra d itio n a lly basil and oil. Used as a sauce fo r pasta and o ther foods and as a garnish fo r soup. Pesto may also contain grated cheese, nuts or seeds, and o th e r seasonings. PETIT FOUR: A fancy bite-size layered cake covered in fondant.

available bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. Food sources include corn, cottonseed, safflow er, soy, and sunflow er oils. PORT: A fo rtifie d dessert wine. Vintage p o rt is high-quality unblended wine aged in the b o ttle fo r a t least tw elve years. Ruby p o rt may be blended, and is aged in wood fo r a short tim e. W hite p o rt is made w ith w hite grapes. POT-AU-FEU: A classic French boiled dinner; typ ica lly includes p o u ltry and beef, along w ith various ro o t vegetables. The b ro th is o fte n served as a fir s t course, follow ed by the m eats and vegetables. PRAWN: A crustacean th a t closely resembles shrimp; often used as a general te rm fo r large shrimp. PRESENTATION SIDE: The side o f a piece o f meat, poultry, or fish th a t w ill be served facing up. PRESSURE STEAMER: A machine th a t cooks food using steam

Also, more generally can re fe r to bite-size pastries and

produced by heating w a te r under pressure in a sealed

cookies.

com partm ent, which allows it to reach tem peratures higher

PH SCALE: A scale w ith values fro m 0 to 14 representing de­

than boiling (212°F/100°C). The fo o d is placed in a cham­

gree o f acidity. A m easurem ent o f 7 is neutral, 0 is m ost

ber th a t is then sealed and cannot be opened u n til the pres­

acidic and 14 is m ost alkaline. Chemically, pH measures the

sure has been released and the steam properly vented.

concentration o f hydrogen ions. PHYLLO/FILO DOUGH: Pastry made w ith very th in sheets o f a

PRIMAL CUTS: The large portions produced by the in itia l cu t­ tin g o f an animal carcass. Cuts are determ ined standards

flo u r-a n d -w a te r dough layered w ith b u tte r and/or bread or

th a t may vary by country and animal. Primal cuts are fu r­

cake crumbs; sim ilar to strudel.

th e r broken down into smaller, more manageable cuts.

G LO S S A R Y

1179

PRINTANIERE: A garnish o f spring vegetables. PRIX FIXE: Literally, “fixe d price.” A type o f menu in which a com plete meal is o ffe re d fo r a preset price. The menu may o ffe r several choices fo r each course. PROOF: To allow yeast dough to rise. A p ro o f box is a sealed cabinet th a t allows co n tro l over both tem perature and hum idity. PROTEIN: One o f the basic n u trie n ts needed by the body to maintain life, supply energy, build and repair tissues, form

REMOUILLAGE: Literally, "rewetting.'’ A stock made from bones th a t have already been used fo r stock. Weaker than a firs tq u a lity stock, it is o fte n reduced to make glaze. RENDER: To m elt fa t and c la rify the drippings fo r use in saute­ ing or pan frying. REST: To allow fo o d to s it undisturbed a fte r roasting and be­ fo re carving; th is allows the juices to seep back into the m eat fib e rs. RICH DOUGH: A yeast dough th a t contains fa ts such as b u t­

enzymes and hormones, and pe rfo rm o ther essential fu n c­

te r and /o r egg yolks. May also contain sweeteners. Rich

tions. Protein can be obtained fro m animal and vegetable

doughs tend to produce more tender breads w ith a darker

sources.

crust than lean doughs.

PROVENQAL(E)/A LA PROVENCALE: Dishes prepared in the

RILLETTE: Potted meat; m eat cooked slowly in seasoned fat,

style o f Provence, France, o fte n w ith garlic, tom atoes, and

then shredded or pounded into a paste w ith some o f the

olive oil. May also contain anchovies, eggplant, mushrooms,

fa t. The m ixture is packed in ramekins and covered w ith a

olives, and onions.

thin layer o f fa t. O ften used as a spread.

PULSE: The edible seed o f a leguminous plant, such as a bean, lentil, or pea. O ften refe rre d to sim ply as legume. PUREE: To process fo o d by mashing, straining, or chopping it very fin e ly in order to make it a sm ooth paste. Also, a prod­ uct produced using th is technique.

RING TOP: A fla tto p w ith removable plates th a t can be opened to varying degrees to expose the cooking food to more or less heat. RISOTTO: Rice sauteed b rie fly in b u tte r w ith onions and pos­ sibly o th er arom atics, then combined w ith stock, which is added in several additions and stirre d constantly to pro­

q

duce a creamy te xtu re w ith grains th a t are s till al dente.

QUAHOG/QUAHAUG: A hard-shell clam larger than 3 in / 8 cm in diameter, usually used fo r chowder or fritte rs . QUATRE EPICES: Literally, "fo u r spices." A fin e ly ground spice

ROE: Fish or shellfish eggs. ROLL-IN: B u tte r or a butter-based m ixture placed between lay­

m ixture containing black peppercorns, nutmeg, cinnamon,

ers o f pastry dough, then rolled and folded repeatedly to

cloves, and som etim es ginger. Used to fla vo r soups, stews,

fo rm numerous layers. When the dough is baked, the layers

and vegetables.

remain discrete, producing a very flaky, rich pastry.

QUENELLE: A lig h t poached dumpling based on a forcem eat (usually chicken, veal, seafood, or game) bound w ith eggs, and shaped in an oval by using tw o spoons. QUICK BREAD: Bread made w ith chemical leaveners, which w ork more quickly than yeast because they require no kneading or fe rm e n tatio n . Also called b a tte r bread.

RONDEAU: A shallow, wide, straig h t-sid e d p o t w ith tw o loop handles; o fte n used fo r braising. RONDELLE: A knife cut used on cylindrical vegetables or items trim m ed into cylinders before cutting; produces fla t round or oval pieces. ROTISSEUR: Roast ch e f/sta tio n . The position is responsible fo r all roasted foods and related sauces.

r

ROULADE: A slice o f meat or fish rolled around a stu ffin g . Also,

RAFT: A m ixture o f ingredients used to c la rify consomme. Refers to the fa c t th a t the ingredients rise to the surface and fo rm a flo a tin g mass.

a fille d and rolled sponge cake. ROUND: A cut o f be e f fro m the hind quarter th a t includes the to p and b o tto m round, eye, and to p sirloin. It is lean and

RAGOUT: A stew o f meat and/or vegetables.

usually braised or roasted. Also, in baking, to shape pieces

RAMEKIN/RAMEQUIN: A small ovenproof dish, usually ceramic.

o f yeast dough into balls; th is process stretches and relax­

REACH-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit or se t o f units w ith pass-through doors. O ften used in the pantry area fo r

es the gluten and ensures even rising and a sm ooth crust. ROUND FISH: A cla ssification o f fish based on skeletal type,

storage o f salads, cold hors d’oeuvre, and oth er freq u e n tly

characterized by a rounded body and eyes on opposite

used items.

sides o f the head. Round fish are usually cut by the up and

REDUCE: To decrease the volume o f a liquid by sim m ering or boiling. Used to provide a th icke r consistency and /o r con­ centrated flavors. REDUCTION: The product th a t results when a liquid is reduced. REFRESH: To plunge an item into, or run it under, cold w ater a fte r blanching to prevent fu rth e r cooking. Also known as shock.

1180

ROAST: To cook by dry heat in an oven or on a s p it over a fire.

G LO S S A R Y

over method. ROUX: An appareil containing equal parts o f flo u r and fa t (usually butter), used to thicken liquids. Roux is cooked to varying degrees (white, blond, brown, or dark), depending on its intended use. The darker the roux, the less thickening power it has but the fu lle r the taste. ROYALE: A consomme garnish made o f unsweetened cooked custard cut in to decorative shapes.

RUB: A com bination o f spices and herbs applied to foods as a

SAVORY: N ot sweet. Also, the name o f a course served a fte r

marinade or fla v o rfu l crust. Dry rubs are generally based

d essert and before p o rt in tra d itio n a l B ritish meals. Also, a

upon spices; w e t rubs (som etim es known as mops) may

fa m ily o f herbs (including summer and w in te r savory) th a t

include m oist ingredients such as fresh herbs, vegetables,

ta ste like a cross between thym e and mint.

and fr u it juice or broth, if necessary, to make a pasty consistency. Rubs are absorbed into the m eat to create a g re a te r depth o f flavor.

s

SCALD: To heat a liquid, usually m ilk or cream, to ju s t below the boiling point. May also r e fe r to b la n ch in gfru its and vegetables. SCALE: To measure ingredients by weighing, or to divide dough or b a tte r into p o rtio n s by weight. Also, to remove the

5ABAYON: A custard o f sweetened egg yolks flavored w ith Marsala or o th er wine or liqueur, beaten in a double boiler until fro th y . In Italian, zabaglione. SACHET D'EPICES: L iterally, "bag o f spices.” A rom atic ingre­ dients encased in cheesecloth, used to fla vo r stocks and oth er liquids. A standard sachet contains parsley stems, cracked peppercorns, dried thyme, and a bay leaf. SALT COD: Cod th a t has been salted and dried to preserve it. SALTPETER: Potassium n itra te . A com ponent o f curing salt, used to preserve meat. It gives certain cured meats th e ir characteristic pink color. SANITATION: The maintenance o f a clean fo o d preparation environm ent by healthy fo o d w orkers in order to prevent food-borne illnesses and fo o d contam ination. SANITIZE: To k ill pathogenic organisms by chemicals and/or m oist heat. SASHIMI: Sliced raw fish, served w ith such condim ents as a julienne o f daikon radish, pickled ginger, wasabi, and soy sauce. SATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule whose available bonding sites are e n tire ly fille d w ith hydrogen atoms. These tend to be solid a t room tem perature and are p rim arily o f animal o ri­

scales fro m fish. SCALER: A to o l used to scrape scales from fish. Used by scrap­ ing against the directio n in which scales lie fla t, working fro m ta il to head. SCALLOP: A bivalve whose adductor muscle (the muscle th a t keeps its shells closed) and roe are eaten. Also, a small boneless piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness. Also, a side dish in which an item is layered w ith cream or sauce and topped w ith bread crumbs p rior to baking. SCORE: To cut the surface o f an item at regular intervals to allow it to cook evenly, allow excess fa t to drain, help the fo o d absorb marinades, or fo r decorative purposes. SCRAPPLE: A boiled m ixture o f pork trim m ings, buckwheat, and cornm eal compressed into a loaf, chilled, and sliced. It is o fte n frie d a fte r chilling and served fo r breakfast. SEAR: To brown the surface o f food in fa t over high heat before fin ish in g by another m ethod (e.g., braising or roasting) in order to add flavor. SEA SALT: S alt produced by evaporating seawater. Available refined or unrefined, crystallized or ground. Also known as sel gris (French fo r “gray sa lt”). SEASONING: Adding an ingredient to give foods a particular

gin, including butter, meat, cheese, and eggs; coconut oil,

flavor, using salt, pepper, herbs, spices, and/or condiments.

palm oil, and cocoa b u tte r are vegetable sources.

Also, the process by which a p ro te ctive coating is b u ilt up

SAUCE: A liquid accompanim ent to food, used to enhance the fla v o r o f the food. SAUCE VIN BLANC: L iterally, "w hite wine sauce." A sauce made by combining a reduced poaching liquid (typica lly contain­ ing wine) w ith prepared hollandaise, veloute, or diced butter. SAUCIER: Saute ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all sauteed item s and th e ir sauces. SAUSAGE: A fo rce m e a t m ixture shaped into p a ttie s or links, ty p ic a lly highly seasoned; originally made to preserve the m eat and use edible trim . Made from ground meat, fa t, and seasonings. Sausage varies in size, shape, curing tim e, and typ e o f casing. SAUTE: To cook quickly in a small amount o f fa t in a pan on the stovetop. SAUTEUSE: A shallow s k ille t w ith sloping sides and a single long handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as a saute pan. SAUTOIR: A shallow s k ille t w ith stra ig h t sides and a single long handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as a

on the in te rio r o f a pan. SEMOLINA: The hard durum wheat endosperm used fo r gnocchi, bread, couscous, and pasta. Semolina has a high gluten content. SHALLOW POACH: To cook an item gently in a shallow pan, barely covered w ith sim m ering liquid. The liquid is often reduced and used as the base o f a sauce. SHEET PAN: A fla t baking pan, o fte n w ith a rolled lip, used to cook foods in the oven. SHELF LIFE: The amount o f tim e in storage th a t a product can m aintain its quality. SHELLFISH: Various typ e s o f marine life consumed as food, in­ cluding m ollusks such as univalves, bivalves, cephalopods, and crustaceans. SHERRY: A fo rtifie d Spanish wine; varies in color and sweetness. SHIRRED EGG: An egg cooked w ith b u tte r (and often cream) in a ramekin un til the w hites are set. SIEVE: A container made o f a p e rfo ra te d m aterial such as wire mesh, used to drain or puree foods.

saute pan.

GLOSSARY

ll8 l

SILVERSKIN: The tough connective tissue th a t surrounds cer­

SOURDOUGH: A yeasted bread dough leavened using a non-

tain muscles. This protein does not dissolve when cooked

com m ercially produced fe rm ented starter. Also refers to

and m ust be removed p rior to cooking.

a naturally leavened bread th a t contains no commercial

SIMMER:To m aintain the tem perature o f a liquid ju s t be­ low boiling. Also, to cook immersed in liquid at 185° to 2 0 0 °F /8 5 °to 9 3 °C . SIMPLE CARBOHYDRATE: Any o f a number o f small carbohy­ drate molecules (mono- and disaccharides) including glu­ cose, fructose, lactose, m altose, and sucrose. SIMPLE SYRUP: A m ixture o f w a te r and sugar (with additional flavorings or arom atics as desired), heated u n til the sugar dissolves. Used to m oisten cakes and to poach fru its. SINGLE-STAGE TECHNIQUE: Cooking involving only one cook­ ing method (e.g., boiling or sauteing), as opposed to more than one method, as in braising. SKIM: To remove im p uritie s during cooking fro m the surface o f a liquid such as stock or soup. SKIM MILK: M ilk from which all but 0.5 percent o f the m ilk fa t has been removed. SLURRY: A starch, such as arrow root, cornstarch, or p otato

yeast. SOUS CHEF: Literally, "under chef." The chef who is second in command in a kitchen; usually responsible fo r scheduling, fillin g in fo r the executive chef, and assisting the chefs de partie as necessary. SPATZLE: A s o ft noodle or small dum pling made by dropping b its o f a prepared b a tte r into sim m ering liquid. SPIDER: A long-handled skim m er used to remove item s from hot liquid or fa t and to skim the surface o f liquids. SPIT-ROAST: To roa st an item on a large skewer or sp it over, or in fro n t of, an open flam e or o ther radiant heat source. SPONGE: A th ick yeast batter, allowed to fe rm e n t and develop a lig h t consistency and then combined w ith other ingredi­ ents to fo rm a yeast dough. SPONGE CAKE: A sw e e tfoa m e d cake leavened w ith beaten egg foam . Also called genoise. SPRINGFORM PAN: A round straight-sided pan whose sides

starch, dispersed in cold liquid to prevent it fro m form ing

are form ed by a hoop th a t can be unclamped and detached

lumps when added to hot liquid as a thickener.

fro m its base. P rim arily used fo r cheesecakes and mousse

SMALL SAUCE: A sauce th a t is a derivative o f any o f the “grand" sauces. SMOKE POINT: The tem perature at which a fa t begins to break down and smoke when heated.

cakes. STABILIZER: An ingredient (usually a protein or plant product; e.g., egg yolks, cream, or m ustard) added to an emulsion to prevent it fro m separating. Also, an ingredient such as gelatin or gum, used in various desserts (e.g., Bavarian

SMOKER: An enclosed area in which fo o ds are held on racks or

creams) to prevent them from separating.

hooks and allowed to remain in a smoke bath at an appro­ priate tem perature.

STANDARD BREADING PROCEDURE: The assembly-line proce­ dure in which item s are dredged in flour, dipped in beaten

SMOKE ROASTING: A m ethod o f roasting foods in which item s are placed on a rack in a pan containing wood chips th a t

egg, then coated w ith crumbs before being pan frie d or deep fried .

smolder, e m ittin g smoke, when the pan is placed on the stovetop or in the oven.

STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS: A fa cu lta tive bacteria th a t can cause food-borne illness. It is p a rticu la rly dangerous be­

SMOKING: Any o f several m ethods fo r preserving and fla v o r­ ing foods by exposing them to smoke. M ethods include cold smoking (in which smoked item s are not fu lly cooked),

cause it produces toxins th a t cannot be destroyed by heat. Staph in to xica tio n is m ost o fte n caused by tra n sfe r o f the bacteria from in fe cted fo o d handlers.

hot smoking (in which the item s are cooked), and smoke roasting.

STEAK: A portion-size (or larger) cut o f meat, poultry, or fish made by c u ttin g across the grain o f a muscle or a muscle

SMOTHER: To cook in a lidded pan w ith little liquid over low

group. May be boneless or bone in.

heat. The main item is o fte n com pletely covered by another food item or sauce while it cooks.

STEAM: To cook item s in a vapor bath created by boiling water or other liquids.

SODIUM: An alkaline m etal elem ent necessary in small q uanti­ tie s fo r human n u tritio n ; one o f the com ponents o f most salts used in cooking.

STEAMER: A set o f stacked pots w ith p e rfo ra tion s in the b o t­ tom o f each pot. They f i t over a larger po t fille d w ith boil­ ing or sim m ering water. Also, a perfo ra te d insert made of

SOMMELIER: Wine stew ard or w aiter. Helps diners select wine

m etal or bamboo, used in a pot to steam foods.

and serves it. Responsible fo r the restaurant's wine cellar. STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE: A ke ttle w ith double-layered walls SORBET: A frozen dessert made w ith fr u it juice or another base, a sweetener (usually sugar), and beaten egg whites, which prevent the fo rm a tio n o f large ice crystals. SOUFFLE: Literally, "puffed.” A preparation made w ith a sauce base (usually bechamel fo r savory souffles, pastry cream fo r sweet ones), whipped egg w hites, and flavorings. The egg w hites cause the so u ffle to p u ff during cooking.

1182

G LO S S A R Y

w ithin which steam circulates to provide even heat fo r cooking stocks, soups, and sauces. These ke ttle s may be insulated, spigoted, a nd/or tiltin g . The la tte r are also called trunnion kettles. STEEL: A to o l used to hone knife blades. It is usually made o f steel but may be ceramic, glass, or diam ond-im pregnated metal.

STEEP: To allow an ingredient to s it in warm or hot liquid to e x tra c t fla vo r or im purities, or to so fte n the item. STEWING: A cooking m ethod nearly identical to braising but generally involving sm aller pieces o f meat and hence a sh o rte r cooking tim e. Stewed item s also may be blanched rather than seared, to give the finished product a pale

its tem perature. May also re fe r to the proper method fo r m elting chocolate. TEMPURA: Seafood and/or vegetables coated w ith a light b a t­ te r and deep fried , usually accompanied by a sauce. TENDERLOIN: A boneless cut o f meat, usually beef or pork, from the loin; usually the m ost tender and expensive cut.

color. TERRINE: A lo a f o f fo rce m e a t sim ilar to a pate, but cooked in a STIR-FRYING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to sauteing, in which item s are cooked over very high heat, using little fa t and

covered mold in a bain-marie. Also, the mold used to cook such item s, usually an oval shape, made o f ceramic.

kept moving constantly. Usually done in a wok. THERMOPHILIC: Heat-loving. Used to describe bacteria STOCK: A fla v o rfu l liquid prepared by sim m ering meat bones, p o u ltry bones, seafood bones, a nd/or vegetables in w ater

th a t th rive w ith in the tem perature range from 1 1 0 ° to 171°F/4B° to 77°C.

w ith arom atics u n til th e ir fla vo r is extracted. Used as a base fo r soups, sauces, and o ther preparations.

THICKENER: An in gredient used to give additional body to liq­ uids. A rrow ro o t, cornstarch, gelatin, roux, and beurre manie

STOCKPOT: A large, straig h t-sid e d pot, ta lle r than it is wide.

are examples.

Used fo r making stocks and soups. Some have spigots; these are also called marm ites.

TILTING KETTLE: A large, tiltin g pot used fo r stewing and oc­ casionally steaming.

STONE GROUND: A te rm used to describe meal or flo u r milled between grindstones. Because the germ o f the wheat is not separated, th is m ethod o f grinding retains more n utrients than oth er methods. STRAIGHT FORCEMEAT: A fo rce m e a t combining lean m eat and fa t by grinding the m ixture together. STRAIGHT-MIX METHOD: The dough-m ixing method in which all ingredients are combined all a t once by hand or machine. STRAIN: To pass a liquid through a sieve or screen to remove particles.

TILT SKILLET: A large, relative ly shallow, tiltin g pan w ith a large surface area. Can be used fo r braising, sauteing, or stewing. TIMBALE: A small pail-shaped mold used to shape rice, cus­ tards, mousselines, and o ther items. Also, a preparation made in such a mold. TOMALLEY: Lob ste r liver, which is olive green in color and used in sauces and o th e r items. TOMATO SAUCE: A sauce prepared by sim mering tom atoes in a liquid (w ater or broth) w ith arom atics. One o f the “grand” sauces.

SUPREME: The breast fille t and wing o f chicken or o ther poul­ try . Sauce supreme is chicken veloute enriched w ith cream.

TOTAL UTILIZATION: The principle advocating the use o f as much o f a p roduct as possible in order to reduce waste and

SWEAT: To cook an item , usually vegetable(s), in a covered pan in a sm all amount o f fa t u n til it softens and releases m ois­ tu re but does not brown.

increase p ro fits. TOURNANT: Roundsman or swing cook; a kitchen s ta ff member who works as needed throughout the kitchen.

SWEETBREADS: The thym us glands o f young animals, usu­ ally calves but also lambs or pigs. Usually sold in pairs. Sweetbreads have a m ild fla v o r and sm ooth texture. They m ust be soaked in acidulated w a te r p rio r to cooking and the ou ter membrane m ust be removed. SWISS: To pound meat, usually beef, w ith flo u r and seasonings, breaking up the muscle fib e rs and tenderizing the meat. SYRUP: Sugar dissolved in liquid, usually water, possibly w ith the addition o f flavorings such as spices or citrus zests.

TOURNER: To cut item s, usually vegetables, into a barrel, olive, or fo o tb a ll shape. Tourneed fo o ds should have five or seven sides or faces and blunt ends. TOXIN: A naturally occurring poison, p a rticu la rly those pro­ duced by the m etabolic a c tiv ity o f living organisms such as bacteria. TRANCHE: A slice or cut o f meat, fish, or p o u ltry cut on a bias to visually increase the appearance o f the cut. TRICHINELLA SPIRALIS: A spiral-shaped parasitic worm th a t

t

invades the in te stin es and muscle tissue. Transmitted p rim a rily through in fe cted pork th a t has not been cooked

TABLE D'HOTE: A fixe d -p rice menu w ith a single price fo r an

su fficie n tly.

e ntire meal based on the entree selection. TRIPE: The edible stomach lining o f a cow or o ther ruminant. TABLE SALT: Refined granulated salt. May be fo rtifie d w ith iodine and tre a te d w ith magnesium carbonate to prevent

Honeycomb trip e comes fro m the second stomach and has a honeycom b-like appearance.

clumping. TRUSS: To tie up m eat or p o u ltry w ith string before cooking it, TART: A shallow straig h t-sid e d pastry crust (may be flu te d or plain), fille d w ith a savory or sweet, fresh and/or cooked

to give it a com pact shape fo r more even cooking and b e t­ te r appearance.

fillin g . Also, describes something, very acidic or sour. TUBER: The fle sh y root, stem, or rhizome o f a plant, able to TEMPER: To heat gently and gradually. May re fe r to the process o f incorporating hot liquid into a liaison to gradually raise

grow into a new plant. Some, such as potatoes, are eaten as vegetables.

G LO S S A R Y

1183

TUILE: Literally, "tile.” A thin w a fe r-like cookie or fo o d cut to

VITAMINS: Any o f various n u tritio n a lly essential organic sub­

resemble th is cookie. Tuiles are fre q u e n tly shaped while

stances th a t do not provide energy but usually act as regu­

s till warm and pliable by pressing them into molds or drap­

lators in m etabolic processes and help maintain health.

ing them over rolling pins or dowels. TUNNELING: A fa u lt in baked goods th a t may occur due to overm ixing or by not fu lly incorporating a chemical leaven-

w WAFFLE: A crisp, pancake-like b a tte r product, cooked on a

er, among oth er reasons. The finished product w ill contain

specialized griddle th a t gives the finished product a tex-

large holes (tunnels).

tu re d pattern, usually a grid. Also, a special vegetable cut th a t produces a grid or basket-weave pattern. Also known as g a u fre tte .

UMAMI: Describes a savory, m eaty ta ste ; o fte n associated w ith

WALK-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit large enough to

m onosodium glutam ate (MSG) and mushrooms.

walk into. It is occasionally large enough to m aintain zones o f d iffe re n t tem peratures and hum idity to sto re a variety

UNIVALVE: A single-shelled, single-m uscle m ollusk such as

o f fo o ds properly. Some have reach-in doors as well. Some

abalone and sea urchin.

are large enough to accomm odate rolling carts as well as UNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith a t least one available

many shelves o f goods.

bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. May be mono­ unsaturated or polyunsaturated. Tends to be liquid a t room

WASABLThe ro o t o f an Asian plant sim ilar to horseradish. It becomes b rig h t green when mixed w ith water. Used as a

tem perature. Prim arily o f vegetable origin.

condim ent in Japanese cooking.

V

WHEY: The liquid le ft a fte r curds have form ed in milk.

VANILLA SAUCE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or

WHIP/WHISK: To beat an item , such as cream or egg whites, to incorporate air. Also, a special to o l fo r whipping made o f

milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or

looped wire attached to a handle.

used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice cream. Also known as creme anglaise.

WHITE CHOCOLATE: Cocoa b u tte r flavored w ith sugar and m ilk solids. It does not contain any cocoa solids, so it does not

VARIETY MEAT: M eat from a p a rt o f an animal o ther than the muscle (e.g., organ meats). Variety m eats include tongue,

have the characteristic brown color th a t regular chocolate

liver, brains, kidneys, sweetbreads, and tripe . Also called

has.

offal.

WHITE MIREPOIX: M irepoix th a t does not include carrots, and may include chopped mushrooms or mushroom trim m ings

VEGETABLE SOUP: A b ro th - or w ater-based soup made p ri­

and parsnips. Used fo r pale or w h ite sauces and stocks.

m arily w ith vegetables; may include meats, legumes, and noodles and may be clear or thick.

WHITE STOCK: A light-colored stock made w ith bones th a t have not been browned.

VEGETARIAN: An individual who has adopted a specific d ie t th a t elim inates m eat and fish and products derived from m eat and fish but not all animal products. Lacto-ovo-

WHOLE GRAIN: An unmilled or unprocessed grain. WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR: Flour m illed from the whole grain in­

vegetarians include dairy products and eggs in th e ir diet;

cluding the bran, germ, and endosperm.

ovo-vegetarians include eggs. Vegans eat no fo o ds derived in any way fro m animals.

WOK: A round-bottom ed pan, usually made o f rolled steel, used in Asian cuisine fo r nearly all cooking methods. Its

VELOUTE: A sauce o f w h ite stock (chicken, veal, or seafood)

shape allows fo r even heat d istrib u tio n and easy tossing o f

thickened w ith w hite roux. One o f the “grand" sauces. Also,

ingredients.

a cream soup made w ith a veloute sauce base and fla v o r­ ings (usually pureed), usually finished w ith a liaison. VENISON: M eat from large game animals in the deer fam ily, but o fte n used to re fe r specifically to deer meat.

y

YAM: A large tu b e r th a t grows in tro p ica l and subtropical cli­ mates; it has starchy pale-yellow flesh. The name "yam” is

VERTICAL CHOPPING MACHINE (VCM): A machine sim ilar to a

also used fo r the botanically unrelated sweet potato.

blender th a t has ro ta tin g blades used to grind, whip, emul­ sify, or blend foods.

YEAST: M icroscopic organism whose m etabolic processes are responsible fo r fe rm e n tatio n . It is used fo r leavening bread

VINAIGRETTE: A cold sauce o f oil and vinegar, usually w ith va ri­

and in the m aking o f beer and wine.

ous flavorings. It is a tem porary emulsion. The standard p ro portion is three parts o il to one p a rt vinegar.

YOGURT: M ilk cultured w ith bacteria to give it a slig h tly thick consistency and sour flavor.

VIRUS: A typ e o f pathogenic m icroorganism th a t can be tra n s­ m itte d in food. Viruses cause illnesses such as measles, chicken pox, in fe ctio us h epatitis, and colds.

z ZEST: The thin, b rig h tly colored o uter p a rt o f citrus rind. It con­ tains vo la tile oils, m aking it ideal fo r use as a flavoring.

1184

G LO S S A R Y

readings and resources food history Am erican Food: The G astronom ic Story. 3rd ed. Evan Jones. Overlook Press, 1990. “A Woman's Place Is in the Kitchen": The Evolution o f Women Chefs. Ann Cooper. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1998. Cod: A Biography o f the Fish That Changed the World. M ark Kurlansky. W alker and Co., 1997. Consuming Passions: The A nthropology o f Eating. Peter Farb and George Arm elagos. Houghton M ifflin , 1980. Culture and Cuisine: A Journey Through the H isto ry o f Food. Jean-Frangois Revel. Translated by Helen R. Lane. Da Capo Press, 1984. The D eipnosophists (Banquet o f the Learned). Athenaeus o f Naucratis. Translated by C. D. Yonge. London: Henry G. Bohn, 1854. Eating in Am erica: A H istory. Waverley Root and Richard de Rochemont. Ecco, 1981. Fabulous Feasts: M edieval Cookery and Ceremony. Madeleine Pelner Cosman. Braziller, 1976. Food and Drink Through the Ages, 2 5 0 0 BC to 1 9 3 7 AD. Barbara Feret. London: Maggs Brothers, 1937. Food in H istory. Reay Tannahill. Crown Publishers, 1989.

M odern Kitchen. Apicius. Translated by John Edwards. London: H artley 6 Marks, 1984. The Travels o f M arco Polo. Maria Bellonci. Translated by Teresa Waugh. Facts on File, 1984. Why We Eat W hat We Eat: How the Encounter Between the New W orld and the Old Changed the Way Everyone on the Planet Eats. Raymond Sokolov. Simon & Schuster, 1992.

sanitation and safety A p plied Foodservice S a n ita tio n Textbook. 4th ed. Educational Foundation o f the National Restaurant Association, 1992. HACCP Reference Book. Educational Foundation o f the N ational R estaurant Association, 1993.

chemistry of cooking CookWise: The Hows & Why s o f Successful Cooking; The Secrets o f Cooking Revealed. Shirley Corriher. Morrow, 1997. The Curious Cook: M ore Kitchen Science and Lore. Harold McGee. M acmillan, 1992.

G astronomy: The A nthropology o f Food and Food Habits. M argaret L. A m o tt, ed. The Hague: M outon, 1975.

The E xperim ental Study o f Food. 2nd ed. Ada M arie Campbell, M arjorie P orter Penfield, and Ruth M. Griswold. Constable and Co., 1979.

Kitchen and Table: A Bedside H isto ry o f Eating in the W estern World. Colin Clair. Abelard-Schuman, 1965.

Foods: A S c ie n tific Approach. 3rd ed. Helen Charley, Connie M. Weaver. Prentice Hall, 1997.

Much Depends on Dinner: The E xtra o rd in a ry H isto ry and M ythology, A llure and Obsessions, Perils and Taboos, o f an O rdinary M eal. M argaret Visser. Grove Press, 1987.

On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore o f the Kitchen. Harold McGee. Scribner, 2004.

Our Sustainable Table. Robert Clark, ed. North Point Press, 1990.

equipment and mise en place

The Pantropheon: or, A H isto ry o f Food and Its P reparation in A ncient Times. Alexis Soyer. London: Paddington Press, 1977.

The Chef's Book o f Formulas, Yields and Sizes. 3rd ed. Arno Schm idt. Wiley, 2003.

Platina: On R ight Pleasure and Good Health: A C ritica l Edition and Translation o f "De H onesta Voluptate e t Valetudine." M ary Ella Milham, ed. Renaissance Tapes, 1998. The R ituals o f Dinner: The Origins, Evolution, Eccentricities, and Meanings o f Table Manners. M argaret Visser. Penguin, 1992. The Roman Cookery o fA p iciu s: A Treasury o f Gourm et Recipes and Herbal Cookery, Translated and A dapted fo r the

Food Equipm ent Facts: A Handbook fo r the Foodservice Industry. Revised and updated. Carl Scriven and James Stevens. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1989. The New Cook's Catalogue. Emily Aronson, Florence Fabricant, and B u rt W olf. Knopf, 2000. The Professional Chefs Knife Kit. 2nd ed.The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Wiley, 1999. The W illiam s-Sonom a Cookbook and Guide to Kitchenware. Chuck W illiam s. Random House, 1986.

R E A D IN G S A N D RESOURCES

general product identification

MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME

DICTIONARIES AND ENCYCLOPEDIAS

The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to M ea t Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Thomas Schneller. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2009.

Asian Ingredients: A Guide to the F oo d stu ffs o f China, Japan, Korea, Thailand, and Vietnam. Bruce Cost. Harper Perennial, 2000. The Cambridge W orld H isto ry o f Food. Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriem hild Conee Ornelas, eds. Cambridge U niversity Press, 2000. The Chef’s Companion: A Concise D ictionary o f Culinary Terms. 3rd ed. Elizabeth Riely. Wiley, 2003.

The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to P oultry Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Thomas Schneller. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2009. The M ea t Buyers Guide. National Association o f M eat Purveyors, 2010. The M ea t We Eat. 14th ed. John R. Romans e t al. Prentice Hall, 2001.

A Concise Encyclopedia o f G astronomy. Andre Simon. Overlook Press, 1981.

FISH AND SHELLFISH

Cook's Ingredients. Adrian Bailey, Elisabeth Lam bert Ortiz, and Helena Radecka. Bantam Books, 1980.

The Com plete Cookbook o f Am erican Fish and Shellfish. 2nd ed. John F. Nicolas. Wiley, 1989.

The Encyclopedia o f Am erican Food and Drink. John F. M ariani. Lebhar-Friedman, 1999.

The Encyclopedia o f Fish Cookery. A. J. McClane. Holt, Rinehart & W inston, 1977.

The Encyclopedia o f Asian Food and Cooking. Jacki Passmore. Hearst, 1991.

Fish and Shellfish. James Peterson. Morrow, 1996.

The Ethnic Food Lover's Companion, Understanding the Cuisines o f the World. Eve Z iba rt. Menasha Ridge Press,

2001 .

The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to Fish and Seafood Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Mark Ainsworth. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2009. McClane's Fish Buyer's Guide. A. J. McClane. Henry Holt, 1990.

Food. Andre Simon. Horizon Press, 1953. Food. W averley Root. Simon and Schuster, 1980.

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

G astronomy. Jay Jacobs. Newsweek Books, 1975.

The Foodservice Guide to Fresh Produce. Produce M arketing Association. Produce M arketing Association, 1987.

Gastronomy o f France. Raymond Oliver. Translated by Claud Durrell. Wine & Food Society w ith World Publishing, 1967. Gastronomy o f Italy. Revised ed. Anna Del Conte. Pavilion Books, 2004. Knight's Foodservice D ictionary. John B. Knight. Edited by Charles A. Salter. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1987. Larousse Gastronomique. Jenifer Harvey Lang, ed. Potter,

2001 . The M aste r D ictionary o f Food and Wine. 2nd ed. Joyce Rubash. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1996. The Deluxe Food Lover's Companion. 4 th ed. Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst. Barron's, 2009. The O xford Companion to Food 2nd ed. Alan Davidson, Tom Jaine, Jane Davidson, Helen Saberi. O xford U niversity Press, 2006. Patisserie: An Encyclopedia o f Cakes, Pastries, Cookies, Biscuits, Chocolate, Confectionery and Desserts. Aaron Maree. HarperCollins, 1994. The Penguin A tla s o f Food: Who Eats What, Where, and Why. Erik M illstone and Tim Lang. Penguin, 2003. Tastings: The Best from Ketchup to Caviar: 31 Pantry Basics and How They Rate w ith the Experts. Jenifer Harvey Lang. Crown, 1986. The Von Welanetz Guide to Ethnic Ingredients. Diana and Paul von Welanetz. Warner, 1987. The World Encyclopedia o f Food. L. P atrick Coyle. Facts on File, 1982.

The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to Produce Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Brad M atthew s, Paul Wigsten. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2010. Charlie Trotter's Vegetables. Charlie Trotter. Ten Speed Press, 1996. Rodole’s Illu s tra te d Encyclopedia o f Herbs. Claire Kowalchik and W illiam H. Hylton, eds. Rodale Press, 1998. Roger Verge's Vegetables in the French Style. Roger Verge. Translated by Edward Schneider. Artisan, 1994. Uncommon F ru its and Vegetables: A Common sense Guide. Elizabeth Schneider. Morrow, 1998. Vegetables. James Peterson. Morrow, 1998. Veqetarian Cookinq fo r Everyone. Deborah Madison. Broadway Books, 1997.

CHEESES Cheese: A Guide to the W orld o f Cheese and Cheesemaking. Bruno B a ttis to tti. Facts on File, 1984. Cheese Buyer's Handbook. Daniel O'Keefe. McGraw-Hill, 1978. The Cheese Companion: The Connoisseur's Guide. 2nd ed. Judy Ridgway. Running Press, 2004. Cheese Primer. Steven Jenkins. Workman, 1996. The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to Cheese Id e ntifica tio n , Classification, and U tiliza tio n . John Fischer. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2010. The World o f Cheese. Evan Jones. Knopf, 1976.

1186

R E A D IN G S A N D RES O URCES

NONPERISHABLE GOODS

soups and sauces

The Book o f C offee and Tea. 2nd ed. Joel Schapira, David Schapira, and Karl Schapira. St. M artin's G riffin , 1996.

Sauces: Classical and Contem porary Sauce M aking 3rd ed. James Peterson. Wiley, 2008.

The Complete Book o f Spices: A Practical Guide to Spices and Arom atic Seeds. Jill Norman. Studio, 1995.

The Saucier's Apprentice: A Modern Guide to Classic French Sauces fo r the Home. Raymond A. Sokolov. Knopf, 1976.

La Technique. Jacques Pepin. Pocket, 1989.

Soups fo r the Professional Chef. Terence Janericco. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1993.

general and classical cookery

Splendid Soups. James Peterson. Wiley, 2001.

The A rt o f Charcuterie. Jane Grigson. Knopf, 1968. The Chef's Compendium o f P rofessional Recipes. 3rd ed. John Fuller and Edward Renold. Oxford, UK: B u tte rw o rth Heinemann, 1992.

nutrition and nutritional cookery

Classical Cooking the M odern Way. 3rd ed. Philip Pauli. Translated by Arno Schm idt. Wiley, 1999.

Choices fo r a Healthy H eart. Joseph C. Piscatella. Workman, 1987.

Cooking fo r the Professional Chef. Kenneth C. W olfe. Delmar, 1982.

Food and Culture in Am erica: A N u tritio n Handbook. Pamela Goyan K ittle r and Kathryn P. Sucher. Wadsworth, 1997.

The Cook's Book o f Essential Inform ation. Barbara Hill. Dell, 1990.

Handbook o f the N u tritio n a l Value o f Foods in Common Units. U.S. D epartm ent o f A griculture. Dover, 1986.

Cuisine Actuelle. V ic to r Gielisse. Taylor, 1992.

In Good Taste. V icto r Gielisse, M ary Kimbrough, and Kathryn G. Gielisse. Prentice-Hall, 1998.

Culinary A rtis try . Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1996. Dining in France. Christian Millau. Stew art, Tabori 6 Chang, 1986. E sco ffie n T h e Com plete Guide to the A r t o f M odern Cookery. Auguste Escoffier. Translated by H. L. Cracknell and R. J. Kaufmann. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1997. E sco ffie r Cookbook: A Guide to the Fine A rt o f Cooking. Auguste Escoffier. Crown, 1976.

The New M editerranean D iet Cookbook: A Delicious A lte rn a tive fo r Life lo n g Health. Nancy Harmon Jenkins. Bantam, 2008. The New Living H e a rt Diet. Michael E. DeBakey, Antonio M. G o tto Jr., Lynne W. Scott, and John P. Foreyt. Simon 6 Schuster, 1996. Spices, S a lt and A ro m a tics in the English Kitchen. Elizabeth David. Penguin, 1970.

Essentials o f Cooking. James Peterson. Artisan, 2003.

N u tritio n : Concepts and Controversies. 12th ed. Eleanor R. W hitney and Frances S. Sizer. CT: Brooks/Cole, 2010.

Garde Manger: The A r t and C ro ft o f the Cold Kitchen. 3rd ed. The Culinary In s titu te o f America. Wiley, 2008.

The Professional Chef's Techniques o f H ealthy Cooking. 3rd ed. The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Wiley, 2000.

The Grand M asters o f French Cuisine. Selected and adapted by Celine Vence and R obert Courtine. Putnam, 1978. G reat Chefs o f France. Anthony Blake and Quentin Crewe. Harry N. Abrams, 1978. Guide Culinaire: The Com plete Guide to the A rt o f Modern Cooking. Auguste Escoffier. Translated by H. L. Cracknell and R. J. Kaufmann. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1997. In tro d u cto ry Foods. 13th ed. M arion Bennion. Prentice-Hall, 2009. Jacques Pepin's A r t o f Cooking. Jacques Pepin. 2 vols. Knopf, 1987 and 1988. James Beard's Theory and Practice o f Good Cooking. James Beard. Running Press, 1999. Jewish Cooking in Am erica. Joan Nathan. Knopf, 1998. Le R epertoire de la Cuisine. Louis Saulnier. Barron's, 1977. Ma G astronomie. Fernand Point. Translated by Frank Kulla and Patricia S. Kulla. Lyceum Books, 1974. Pates and Terrines. Friedrich W. Ehlert e t al. Hearst, 1984. Paul Bocuse's French Cooking. Paul Bocuse. Translated by C olette Rossant. Pantheon, 1977. The Physiology o f Taste, or M e d ita tio n s on Transcendental G astronomy. Jean-Anthelme B rillat-Savarin. Translated by M.F.K. Fisher. Counterpoint, 2000.

American cookery Charlie Trotter's. Charlie T rotter. Ten Speed Press, 1994. Chef Paul Prudhom m e’s Louisiana Kitchen. Paul Prudhomme. Morrow, 1984. Chez Panisse Cooking. Paul B e rto lli w ith Alice W aters. Peter Smith, 2001. C ity Cuisine. M ary Sue M illiken and Susan Feniger. Morrow, 1994. Epicurean Delight: The Life and Times o f James Beard. Evan Jones. Knopf, 1990. I Hear Am erica Cooking. B e tty Fussell. Penguin, 1997. Jasper W hite’s Cooking from New England. Jasper White. Biscuit Books, 1998. Jeremiah Tower's New Am erican Classics. Jeremiah Tower. Harper 6 Row, 1986. License to Grill. Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby. Morrow, 1997. The Mansion on Turtle Creek Cookbook. Dean Fearing. W eidenfeld 6 Nicholson, 1987. The New York Times Cookbook. Revised ed. Craig Claiborne. Morrow, 1990.

R E A D IN G S A N D RESOURCES

Saveur Cooks Au th e n tic Am erican: C elebrating the Recipes and Diverse Traditions o f Our Rich Heritage. The Editors o f Saveur Magazine. Chronicle, 2007. The Thrill o f the Grill: Techniques, Recipes 6 Down Home Barbecue. Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby. Morrow, 2002. The Trellis Cookbook. M arcel Desaulniers. Simon 6 Schuster, 1992.

Couscous and O ther Good Food from Morocco. Paula W olfert. Harper Perennial, 1987. C roatian Cuisine. Revised ed. Ruzica Kapetanovic and Alojzije Kapetanovic. Associated, 1993. The Czechoslovak Cookbook. Joza Brizova. Translated by Adrienna Vahala. Crown, 1965. The Food o f Italy. W averly Root. Atheneum. 1971. The Food o f N orth Italy: Authentic Recipes from Piedmont, Lombardy, and Valle d'Aosta. Luigi Veronelli. Tuttle, 2002.

international cookery

The Food o f Southern Italy. Carlo Middione. Morrow, 1987. The Foods and Wines o f Spain. Penelope Casas. Knopf, 1982.

LATIN AND CAR IB B E A N

La France Gastronomique. Anne Willan. Pavilion, 1991.

The A rt o f South Am erican Cooking. Felipe Rojas-Lombardi. HarperCollins, 1991.

French Provincial Cooking. Elizabeth David. Penguin, 1999.

The Book o f Latin Am erican Cooking. Elisabeth Lam bert Ortiz. Ecco, 1994.

George Lang's Cuisine o f Hungary. George Lang. Wings, 1994.

The Essential Cuisines o f Mexico. Diana Kennedy. Clarkson Potter, 2000. Food and L ife o f Oaxaca. Zarela M artinez. Macmillan, 1997.

The Country Cooking o f France. Anne Willan. Chronicle, 2007.

The German Cookbook. M im i Sheraton. Random House, 1965. Giuliano Bugialli's Classic Techniques o f Italian Cooking. Giuliano Bugialli. Fireside, 1989. Greek Food. Rena Salaman. HarperCollins, 1994.

Food from My H eart: Cuisines o f Mexico Remembered and Reimagined. Zarela M artinez. M acmillan, 1992.

Ita lia n Food. Elizabeth David. Penguin, 1999.

Rick Boyless's M exican Kitchen. Rick Bayless. Scribner, 1996.

Ita lia n Regional Cooking. Ada Boni. Translated by Maria Langdale and Ursula Whyte. Bonanza Books, 1969.

The Taste o f Mexico. Patricia Quintana. Stew art, Tabori 6 Chang, 1986.

Lidia's Italian-A m erican Kitchen. Lidia M atticch io Bastianich. Knopf, 2001. A M editerranean Feast. C liffo rd W right. Morrow, 1999.

E U RO P EA N AN D M E D I T E R R A N E A N The A rt o f Turkish Cooking. Neset Eren. Hippocrene Books, 1993. The Belgian Cookbook. Nika Hazelton. Atheneum, 1977. The Best o f Southern Ita lia n Cooking. Jean Grasso F itzpatrick. Barron's, 1984. B istro Cooking. Patricia Wells. Workman, 1989. A Book o f M editerranean Food. 2nd revised ed. Elizabeth David. New York Review o f Books, 2002. Classical and Contem porary Italian Cooking fo r Professionals. Bruno Ellmer. Wiley, 1989. Classic French Cooking. Craig Claiborne, Pierre Franey, e t al. Tim e-Life Books, 1978. The Classic Food o f N orthern Italy. Anna Del Conte. Pavilion, 1995.

M editerranean Grains and Greens. Paula W olfert. HarperCollins, 1998. The New Book o f M iddle Eastern Food. Claudia Roden. Knopf, 2000. Pasta Classica: The A r t o f Ita lia n Pasta Cooking. Julia Della Croce. Chronicle, 1987. Paula W olfert's W orld o f Food: A Collection o f Recipes from Her Kitchen, Travels, and Friends. Paula W o lfe rt. Harper Perennial, 1995. Pierre Franey's Cooking in France. Pierre Franey and Richard Flaste. Knopf, 1994. Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook. Anya Von Bremzen. Workman, 1990. The Polish Cookbook. Z ofia Czerny. Vanous, 1982.

The Classic Italian Cookbook. M arcella Hazan. Knopf, 1976.

Regional French Cooking. Paul Bocuse. Flammarion, 1991.

Classic Scandinavian Cooking. Nika Hazelton. Galahad, 1994.

Roger Verge's Cuisine o f the South o f France. Roger Verge. Translated by Roberta W olfe Smoler. Morrow, 1980.

Classic Techniques o f Italian Cooking. Giuliano Bugialli. Simon 6 Schuster, 1982.

Simple Cuisine. Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Wiley, 1998.

The Cooking o f the Eastern M editerranean. Paula W o lfe rt. HarperCollins, 1994.

The Taste o f France: A D ictionary o f French Food and Wine. Fay Sharman. Houghton M ifflin , 1982.

The Cooking o f Italy. Waverly Root, e t al. Tim e-Life Books, 1968.

A Taste o f M orocco. Robert Carrier. C. N. Potter, 1987.

The Cooking o f Provincial France. M. F. K. Fisher, et al. TimeLife Books, 1968.

ASIAN

The Cooking o f S outhw est France: A C ollection o f Traditional and New Recipes from France's M a g n ifice n t Rustic Cuisine. Revised ed. Paula W o lfe rt. Wiley, 2005.

The Cooking o f Japan. Rafael S teinberg and the Editors o f Tim e-Life Books. T im e-Life Books, 1969.

Classic Indian Cooking. Julie Sahni. Morrow, 1980.

Cracking the Coconut: Classic Thai Home Cooking. Su-Mei Yu. M orrow, 2000.

1188

R E A D IN G S A N D RES O URCES

Cuisines o f India: The A rt and Tradition o f Regional Indian Cooking. Sm ita Chandra and Sanjeev Chandra. Ecco, 2001.

Food and Beverage Cost Control. Donald Bell. McCutchan, 1984.

Essentials o f Asian Cuisine: Fundam entals and F avorite Recipes. Corinne Trang. Simon & Schuster, 2003.

Foodservice Organizations: A M anagerial and Systems Approach. 6 th ed. Marian Spears. Prentice-Hall, 2007.

The Food o f Asia: Featuring Au th e n tic Recipes from M aste r Chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, M alaysia, The Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam . Forewords by M ingTsai and Cheong Liew; in tro d u c to ry essays by Kong Foong Ling. Periplus Editions,

Lessons in Excellence from Charlie T rotter. Paul Clarke. Ten Speed Press, 1999.

2002 . Food Culture in Japan. Michael Ashkenazi and Jeanne Jacob. Greenwood Press, 2003. The Food o f Korea: A u th e n tic Recipes from the Land o f M orning Calm. Texts by David Clive Price. Periplus Editions,

2002 . The Foods o f Vietnam . Nicole Routhier. S tew art, Tabori 6 Chang, 1989. Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen: A Cookbook. Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall. Ten Speed Press, 2001. Japanese Cooking: A Sim ple A rt. Shizuo Tsuji. Kodansha, 1980. The Joy o f Japanese Cooking. Kuwako Takahashi. C. E. Tuttle, 2002. M adhur Jaffrey's Far Eastern Cookery. Madhur Jaffrey. Perennial, 1992.

The M aking o f a Chef: M aste rin g the H eat a t the CIA. 2nd ed. Michael Ruhlman. Henry Holt, 2009. M ath Principles fo r Food Service Occupations. 3rd ed. Robert G. Haines. Delmar, 1996. M ath Workbook fo r Foodservice and Lodging. 3rd ed. Hollie W. Crawford and M ilto n McDowell. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1988. Principles o f Food, Beverage & Labor Cost Controls. 9th ed. Paul D ittm e ra n d J. Desmond Keefe III. Wiley, 2009. Principles o f M arketing. 13th ed. Philip K o tle ra nd Gary Arm strong. Prentice-Hall, 2009. P rofessional Table Service. Sylvia Meyer, Edy Schmid, and Christel Spuhler. Translated by Heinz Holtmann. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990. Recipes Into Type: A Handbook fo r Cookbook W riters and Editors. Joan W hitm an and Dolores Simon. HarperCollins, 1993.

M adhur Jaffrey's Indian Cooking. Madhur Jaffrey. Barron's, 1983.

Rem arkable Service. Revised ed. The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Ezra Eichelberger and Gary Allen, eds. Wiley, 2009.

The M odern A rt o f Chinese Cooking. Barbara Tropp. Hearst, 1996.

The Resource Guide fo r Food W riters. Gary Allen. Routledge, 1999.

The Noon Book o f A u th e n tic Indian Cooking. G. K. Noon. Tuttle,

The Successful Business Plan: Secrets and S trategies. 4th ed. Rhonda Abrams. Planning Shop, 2003.

2002 . P acific and S outheast Asian Cooking. Rafael S teinberg and the E ditors o f T im e-Life Books. T im e-Life Books, 1970.

W hat Every Supervisor Should Know. 6 th ed. Lester B itte l and John Newstrom . M cGraw-Hill, 1992.

A Taste o f Japan. Jenny Ridgwell. Steck-Vaughn, 1997. A Taste o f M adras: A South Indian Cookbook. Rani Kingman. In te rlin k Books, 1996.

baking and pastry

T errific P acific Cookbook. Anya Von Bremzen and John Welchman. Workman, 1995.

The Baker's Manual. 5th ed. Joseph Amendola. Wiley, 2003.

Traditional Korean Cooking. Noh Chin-hwa. Hollym International, 1985.

business and management A t Your Service: A Hands-on Guide to the Professional Dining Room. John Fischer fo r The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Wiley, 2005.

The Bread Bible: Beth Hensperger's 3 0 0 Favorite Recipes. Beth Hensperger. Chronicle, 2004. F latbreads and Flavors: A Culinary A tlas. Je ffre y A lfo rd and Naomi Duguid. M orrow, 1995. Nancy Silverton's Breads from the La Brea Bakery: Recipes fo r the Connoisseur. Nancy Silverton w ith Laurie Ochoa. Villard, 1996. The New In te rn a tio n al C onfectioner. 5th rev. ed. W ilfre d J. France and Michael R. Small, eds. London: Virtue, 1981.

Becoming a Chef: W ith Recipes and Reflections from America's Leading Chefs. Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. Wiley, 2003.

Nick M algieri's P e rfe ct Pastry. Nick M algieri. Macmillan, 1989.

Cases in H o s p ita lity M arke tin g and Managem ent. 2nd ed. Robert C. Lewis. Wiley, 1997.

P ractical Baking. 5 th ed. W illiam J. Sultan. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990.

Culinary M ath. Linda Blocker, Julie Hill, and The Culinary In s titu te o f America. Wiley, 2007.

The Professional P a stry Chef. 4th ed. Bo Friberg. Wiley, 2002.

The D iscipline o f M a rke t Leaders: Choose Your Customers, Narrow Your Focus, Dom inate Your M arket. Expanded ed. Michael Treacy and Fred Wiersema. Addison-Wesley, 1997.

The Pie and P a stry Bible. Rose Levy Beranbaum. Scribner, 1998.

Swiss C onfectionery. 3rd ed. Richemont Bakery and Confectioners C ra ft School, 1997. U nderstanding Baking. 2nd ed. Joseph Amendola, Nicole Reese, and Donald E. Lundberg. Wiley, 2002.

R E A D IN G S A N D RESO URCES

1189

wines and spirits

culinary associations

Exploring Wine: The Culinary In s titu te o f Am erica's Complete Guide to Wines o f the World. 3rd ed. Steven Kolpan, Brian H. Smith, and Michael A. Weiss. Wiley, 2010.

American Culinary Federation (ACF) 180 Center Place Way St. Augustine, FL 3 2 095 (8 0 0 )6 2 4 -9 4 5 8 w w w .acfchefs.org

G reat Wines Made Simple: S tra ig h t Talk from a M a ste r Sommelier. Andrea Immer. Clarkson Potter, 2005. Hugh Johnson's Modern Encyclopedia o f Wine. 4 th ed. Hugh Johnson. Simon 6 Schuster, 1998. Larousse Encyclopedia o f Wine. C hristopher Foulkes, ed. Larousse, 2001. Windows on the W orld Com plete Wine Course: 2 0 0 9 Edition. Kevin Zraly. Sterling, 2009.

periodicals and journals Am erican Brewer A p pellation A rt Culinaire The A rt o f Eating Beverage Digest Beverage World Bon A p p e tit Brewer's D igest C aterer and Hotelkeeper Chef Chocolate News C hocolatier Cooking fo r P ro fit Cooking L ight Cook's Illu s tra te d Culinary Trends Decanter Eating Well Food i j Wine Food A rts Food fo r Thought Food M anagem ent Foodservice and H o s p ita lity Foodservice D ire ctor

Food Technology Fresh Cup G astronom ica Herb Companion H o s p ita lity H o s p ita lity Design H o te l and M ote l M anagem ent Hotels Lodging M e a t and P oultry M odern Baking Nation's R estaurant News N u tritio n A ction Health L e tte r Pizza Today Prepared Foods R estaurant Business R estaurant H o sp ita lity Restaurants and In stitu tio n s Saveur Wine and S p irits Wines and Vines Wine S p e cta to r

The American Institute of Wine & Food (AIWF) 95 P rescott Avenue Monterey, CA 93940 (800) 2 7 4 -2 4 9 3 www.aiwf.org

Chefs Collaborative 89 South S tre e t Boston, MA 02111 (617) 2 3 6 -5 2 0 0 w w w .chefscollaborative.org

The International Council on Hotel, Restaurant and Institutional Education (CHRIE) 2 810 North Parham Road, Suite 230 Richmond, VA 2 3 2 94 (804) 3 4 6 -4 8 0 0 www.chrie.org

International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) 1100 Johnson Ferry Road, Suite 300 Atlanta, 6 A 3 0 342 (80 0 )9 2 8-4 2 2 7 www.iacp.com

The James Beard Foundation 167 W est 12 th S tre e t New York, NY 10011 (800) 36BEARD www.jamesbeard.org

1190

R E A D IN G S A N D R ES O U R C ES

Les Dames d'Escoffier P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40 204 (5 0 2 )4 5 6 -1 8 5 1 www.ldei.org

National Restaurant Association (NRA) 1 2 0 0 1 7 th S treet, NW Washington, DC 2 0 036 (2 0 2 )3 3 1 -5 9 0 0 www.restaurant.org

Oldways Preservation Trust 2 66 Beacon S tre e t Boston, MA 02116 (617) 4 2 1 -5 5 0 0 w w w .oldwayspt.org

ProChef Certification 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 1 2 5 38 -1 4 9 9 (8 4 5 )4 5 2 -4 6 0 0 www.prochef.com

Share Our Strength (SOS) 1730 M S treet, NW, Suite 700 Washington, DC 2 0 036 (800) 9 6 9 -4 7 6 7 www.strength.org

Women Chefs and Restaurateurs (WCR) P.O. Box 1875 Madison, AL 3 5 758 (877) 9 2 7 -7 7 8 7 www.womenchefs.org

recipe index a

Acorn Squash, Baked, with CranberryOrange Compote, 689 Aioli, 904 Almond(s) Biscotti, -Anise, 1086-1087 -Fig Vinaigrette, 897 Frangipane Filling, 1128 Pear Frangipane Tartlets, 1128 in Picada, 612-613 Trout Amandine, 509 Amaranth Pancakes, 803 Amish Corn and Chicken Soup, 334 Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Anchovy(ies) in Caesar-Style Dressing, 902 -Caper Mayonnaise, 903 Pescado Frito, 972-973 in Provencal Sauce, 501 Andalucian Gazpacho (Gazpacho Andaluz), 349 Angel Food Cake, 1082 Anise-Almond Biscotti, 1086-1087 Annatto Rice, 781 Apple(s) Butter, 1130 Caramelized, 448,1138 Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918 Chips, 1136 Pie, 1125 Sandwich with Curry Mayonnaise, 943 in Waldorf Salad, 918 and Watercress Salad, Sherried, 917 Apple Cider Sauce, 448 Vinaigrette, 897 Apricot Glaze, 1130 Arroz Blanco, 781 Arroz Brasileiro, 782 Arroz Mexicano, 782 Artichoke(s) Eggs Massena, Poached, 869 Lamb Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary, Cipollini Onions and, 451 and Pepper Salad, 750 Souffle, 875 Arugula, Sauteed, 702 Asiago Cheese and Corn Risotto Cakes, 805 Asian Dipping Sauce, 956 Asian-Style Marinade, 372 Asparagus with Lemony Hollandaise, 6 8 8 -6 8 9 Tips, Risotto with, 783 Soup, Cream of (Creme dArgenteuil), 339 and White Bean Lasagna, 829 Aspic, 995 Avocado Baby Spinach, and Grapefruit Salad, 918 in California Rolls, 981 in Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Guacamole, 958 Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Orange Oil and, 983

b

Baba Ghanoush, 958 Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad, 918 Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 Bacon with Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, 522 in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Eggs Benedict, 870, 871 Quiche Lorraine, 876 in Rouladen Stuffing, 585 Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Peppers and, 553 Vinaigrette, Warm, Wilted Spinach Salad with, 914-915 Baguettes, 1033 Baked Acorn Squash with CranberryOrange Compote, 6 8 9 Baked Potatoes with Deep-Fried Onions, 735 Baked Stuffed Pork Chops, 465 Balsamic Vinaigrette, 897 Banana -Nut Bread, 1079,1080 Pancakes, 1073 Barbecue(d) Beef Sandwich, 936 Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9 Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce, 458 Marinade, 372 Spice Mix, 368 Steak with Herb Crust, 445 Barbecue Sauce Guava, 467 Mustard (North Carolina Eastern Low Country), 469 North Carolina Piedmont, 469 North Carolina Western, 469 for Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475 Barley Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Pilaf, Pearl, 780 Salad with Cucumber and Mint, 800, 801 Basic Boiled Pasta, 819 Basic Boiled Rice, 785 Basic Lean Dough, 1033 Basic Muffin Recipe, 1078 Basic Pie Dough (3-2-1), 1070 Basic Polenta, 792 Basic Waffles, 1073 Basil Butter, 300 Ice Cream, 1143-1144 Oil, 906 Pesto, 299 in Provencal Sauce, 501 Sauce, 1145 Thai, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515 Bass Poached Sea, with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 and Scallops en Papillote, 553 Batter Beer, 522 Beignet, Chocolate, 1154

Pate a Choux, 1084 Tempura, 523 BBQ Spice Rub, 791 Bean(s). See also Black Bean(s); Chickpeas; Green Beans Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929 in Cassoulet, 594 Corona (Fagioli all’Uccelletto), 772 Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681 Falafel, 776 Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb with (Gigot a la Bretonne), 480 Lima, Roman-Style, 774 Pinto, Creamed (Frijoles Maneados), 772 in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Red, and Rice, Boiled, 777 Rice and, 776 Salad, Mixed, 929 Soup, Black Bean, Caribbean-Style Puree of, 345 Soup, Senate, 346 Soup, White Bean and Escarole, Tuscan, 355 in Taco Salad, 913 and Tuna Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli), 975 White, and Asparagus Lasagna, 829 White, Boiled, 777 White, Stew, Southwest, 775 Bean Curd Grandmother’s (Ma Po Dofu), 526, 527 in Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3 Smoked, and Celery Salad, 908 Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup, 971 Bearnaise Sauce, 297 Bechamel Sauce, 295 Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with Ragu and (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 Beef. See also Corned Beef; Steaks(s) Barbecued, Sandwich, 936 in Bibimbap, 514 Boiled, with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet Pickles, 472-473 Broth, 334 Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Carpaccio, 982 Consomme, 333 Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Goulash, 599 Noodle Soup (Pho Bo), 569 Oxtails, Braised, 581 Pot Roast, Yankee, 586 Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464 Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Sauerbraten, 587 and Scallions, Skewered, 446 Short Ribs, Braised, 584

Short Ribs, Braised, Korean (Kalbi Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3 Soup, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351 Stew, 589 Stock, White, 263 in Taco Salad, 913 Teriyaki, 4 4 4 ,4 4 5 Tournedos Provencal, 501 Wellington, 463 Beer Batter, 522 and Cheddar Soup, Wisconsin, 340 Beet(s) Glazed, 6 82, 683 Lobster Salad with Mangos, Avocado, Orange Oil and, 983 Mushrooms, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts, 916, 917 Pasta, 819 Beignet Batter, Chocolate, 1154 Beignet Truffle Centers, 1153 Belgian Endive a la Meuniere, 704 Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Bell Pepper(s). See also Red Pepper(s) and Artichoke Salad, 750 Black Beans with Chorizo and, 7 6 8 -7 6 9 in Chili, Vegetarian, 7 7 8-779 Grilled Vegetables Proven^al-Style,

686 Marinated Roasted, 694, 695 and Pork Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo), 984 Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960 Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Bacon and, 553 Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511 Berny Potatoes, 747 Beurre Blanc, 298 Beurre Noisette, Potato and Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Sage and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Bibimbap, 514 Bigarade Sauce, Roast Duckling with, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1086-1087 Biscuit Dumplings, 835 Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071 Bisque Lobster (Bisque de Homard), 348 Shrimp, 347 Black Bean(s) Cakes, 9 7 8 -9 7 9 Chili, Vegetarian, 7 78-779 Crepes, Vegetarian, 770, 771 Frijoles a la Charra, 773 Frijoles Refritos, 771 Mash, 768 -Papaya Salsa, 955 with Peppers and Chorizo, 7 6 8 -7 6 9 Sauce, 458 Soup, Caribbean-Style Puree of, 345 Stewed, 775

RECIPE IN D E X

1191

Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929 Black Ink Sauce, Baby Squid in (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 Black Peppercorn Dressing, Creamy, 904 Black Pepper Pasta, 819 Blitz Puff Pastry Dough, 1077 Blueberry Compote, 1145 Muffins, 1078,1080 Pancakes, 1073 Blue Cheese in Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Dressing, 904 Mousse, 953 Bluefish, Broiled, a l’Anglaise with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Boiled Carrots, 681 Boiled Edamame, 681 Boiled Parsley Potatoes, 736, 737 Boiled Rice, Basic, 785 Boiled White Beans, 777 Bok Choy, Stir-Fried Shanghai (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai), 7 02-703 Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes, 561 Boules, 1034 Bouquet Garni, 774 Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni (Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni), 590 -5 9 1 Braised Fennel in Butter, 710 Braised Greens, 710 Braised Lamb Shanks, 604 Braised Oxtails, 581 Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Braised Red Cabbage, 711 Braised Romaine, 711 Braised Sauerkraut, 712 Braised Short Ribs, 584 Braised Short Ribs, Korean (Kalbi Jjim), 582 Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Sausage, 598 Bran Muffins, 1078 Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with, 872 Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Bread(s), Quick. See also Muffins; Scones Banana-Nut, 1079,1080 Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071 Cornbread, 1079 Fried (Puri), 1074 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Pumpkin, 1080,1081 Soda Bread, Irish, 1072 Bread(s), Yeast Baguettes, 1033 Boules, 1034 Brioche Loaf, 1040 Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041 Buns, Sticky, 1046 Challah (3-Braid), 1044 Ciabatta, 1036 Dough, Basic Lean, 1033

1192

REC IPE IN D E X

Dough, Sweet, 1045 Focaccia, 1034-1035 Naan, 1038,1039 Pita, 1037 Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 Raisin, with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042, 1043 Rolls Cottage Dill, 1039 Hard, 1036 Soft Dinner, 1045 Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106 Bread Crumbs Gremolata, 601 Horseradish and Smoked Salmon Crust, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Persillade, 477 Bread Dumplings, 835 Bread Salad Eastern Mediterranean (Fattoush), 926 Panzanella, 927 Breast of Chicken with Duxelles Stuffing and Supreme Sauce, 515 Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcemeat, 4 8 3 -4 8 4 Brine Meat, 999 for Cantonese Pork Roast (Char Siu), 466 Brioche Loaf, 1040 Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041 Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet Pickles, 47 2 -4 7 3 Broccoli and Cheddar Quiche, 876 Soup, Cream of, 339 Steamed, 681 and Toasted Garlic, 681 Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Parmesan and, 820, 821 Brodo (Poultry and Meat Stock), 266 Broiled Bluefish a l’Anglaise with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel, 455 Broiled Chicken Breasts with SunDried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 454 Broiled Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Butter, 447 Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Broiled Shrimp with Garlic, 969 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Broiled Stuffed Lobster, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, with Bacon, 522 Broth. See also Consomme Beef, 334 Chicken, 334 Fish, 334 Game, 334 Ham, 334 Lamb, 334 Pork, Smoked, 334 Saffron, with Fennel, Seafood Poached in a, 570 Shellfish, 334

Turkey, 334 Veal, 334 Brownies, Fudge, 1090 Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and Green Onions, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Short-Grain, 781 Brown Stock Chicken, 264 Duck, 264 Game (Jus de Gibier), 264 Lamb, 264 Pork, 264 Veal, 263 Buckwheat Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans, 799 Pasta, 819 Bulgur Pilaf, -G reen Onion, 796-797 Salad, Sweet and Spicy, 800 Buns, Sticky, 1046 Burger, Chicken, 936 Burgundy Sauce, Beef Rouladen in, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Butter(s) Apple, 1130 Basil, 300 Beurre Blanc, 298 Beurre Noisette, Potato and Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Sage and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Dill, 300 Green Onion, 300 in Hollandaise Sauce, 298 Maitre d’Hotel, 300 Persillade, 477 Pimiento, 300 Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano, 300 Tarragon, 300 Buttercream, Italian, 1125 Buttermilk Biscuits, 1070-1071 Chicken, Fried, 516-517 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Muffin Recipe, Basic, 1078 Pancakes, 1073 Butternut Squash Puree, 691 in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784 Butterscotch Sauce, 1137

C Cabbage Coleslaw, 920 Coleslaw, Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1 in Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Dim Sum, 837 in Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841 in Potage Garbure, 346 Red, Braised, 711 Salad, Warm, 506 Sauerkraut, Homemade, 593 Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Caesar Salad, 908 Caesar-Style Dressing, 902 Cake(s) Angel Food, 1082 Cheesecake, 1084 Chocolate XS, 1083 Date Spice, 1137 Date Spice, Warm, with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Devil’s Food, 1082

Pound, 1081 Sponge, Chocolate, 1083 Sponge, Vanilla, 1083 California Rolls, 981 Canja (Chicken Rice Soup), 336 Cantonese Pork Roast (Char Siu), 466 Caper-Anchovy Mayonnaise, 903 Caramelized Apples, 4 48,1138 Caramelized Onion Quiche, 876 Caramel Sauce Classic, 1129,1153 Vanilla, 1159 Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean Soup, 345 Carolina Barbecue, 4 6 8 -4 6 9 Carpaccio Beef, 982 Tuna (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta), 964, 965 Carrot(s) Boiled, 681 Glazed, 685 Pan-Steamed, 684 Pasta, 819 Pecan, 684 Roasted, 695 Salad, Moroccan, 920 Cashew Noodles, Tempeh, 824, 825 Cassoulet, 594 Catalina French Dressing, 902 Cauliflower Curried Roasted, 692 and Millet Puree, 796 Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918 Celery and Smoked Bean Curd Salad, 908 Soup, Cream of (Creme de Celeri), 339 Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963 Cha Ca Thang Long (Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill), 527 Challah (3-Braid), 1044 Chantilly Cream (Creme Chantilly), 1023,1146 Orange-Scented, 1138 Chao Tom (Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane), 977 Charcutiere Sauce, 508 Char Siu (Cantonese Pork Roast), 466 Chateau Potatoes, 740 Chayote Salad with Oranges (Salada de Xuxu), 919 Cheddar and Beer Soup, Wisconsin, 340 Omelet, Souffleed, 874 and Potato-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Quiche, and Broccoli, 876 Sauce, 294 Scones, and Ham, 1072 Cheese. See also specific cheeses in Chef’s Salad, 909 Croque Monsieur, 937 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Melt, Three-, 940 Mornay Sauce, 295 Omelet, 873 Omelet, and Meat, 873 Omelet, and Vegetable, 873 in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Scrambled Eggs with, 872 Souffle, Savory, 874 in Taco Salad, 913 Cheesecake, 1084 Chef Clark’s Southwest-Style Sauce, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 Chef’s Salad, 909 Cherry(ies) -Chocolate Chunk Cookies, 1088

Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried, 1002-1003 Pie, 1126 Sauce, Dried, 1130 Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges, Pecans and, 798, 799 Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes, 968, 969 Chestnut Stuffing, 486 Chicken Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Breast, Barbecued, with Black Bean Sauce, 458 Breast of, with Duxelles Stuffing and Supreme Sauce, 515 Breast, Poached, with Tarragon Sauce, 563 Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 454 Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with Fennel, 455 Broth, 334 Burger, 936 in Congee, 795 Consomme, Royale, 333 and Crayfish Terrine, 9 9 6,1005 Farmhouse, with Angel Biscuits, 564 Fricassee, 612 Fried, Buttermilk, 516-517 Galantine, 1000-1001,1005 Gumbo, and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Jus de Volaille Lie, 293 and Lamb Stew, Couscous with, 609 Legs with Duxelles Stuffing, 482 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Mousseline, 996 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Paillards of, Grilled, with Tarragon Butter, 455 and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Muntanya), 612-613 Provencal, 501 Roast, with Pan Gravy, 482 Salad, 923 Salad, Hue-Style, 924 Sauteed, with Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Smoked, Pan-, 483 Soup, and Com, Amish, 334 Soup, Rice (Canja), 336 Soup, Thai, with Coconut Milk and Galangal, 353 Soup, Tortilla, 335 Stock, 263 Stock, Brown, 264 Tagine, 610-611 Tangerine-Flavored, Crispy, 524-525 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 with Vegetables (Poule au Pot), 565 Veloute, 294 Chicken Liver(s) Chasseur, Poached Eggs with, 871 Omelet Opera, 873 Pate, 1004,1005 Pate Grand-Mere, 994 Chickpeas Falafel, 776 Hummus bi Tahini, 958 Middle Eastern, 774 Chiles Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Chili Powder, 368 Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896 Dipping Sauce, Vietnamese, 956 Game Hens, Jerked, 459 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595

Harissa, 959 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Salsa Roja, 954 Salsa Verde Cruda, 954 Tortilla Soup, 335 in Z’hug, 960 Chili, Vegetarian, 778-7 7 9 Chili Powder, 368 Chinese Five-Spice Powder, 368 Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang), 350 Chinese Sausage, Fried Rice with, 787 Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896 Chips Apple, 1136 Coconut, 1150 Plantain, Fried, 708, 709 Sweet Potato, 746, 747 Tortilla, 962 Chocolate Beignet Batter, 1154 Brownies, Fudge, 1090 Cake, XS, 1083 Cinnamon Sticks, Milk Chocolate, 1136 Cookies, Chunk, 1088 Cookies, Chunk, Cherry-, 1088 Cookies, Mudslide, 1089 Eclairs, 1085 Ganache, Hard, 1128 Graham Decor, 1152 Ice Cream, 1102,1103 Mousse, 1104 Pastry Cream, 1098 Pate a Choux, 1160 Sauce, 1129,1159 Souffle, 1106 Sponge Cake, 1083 Straws, 1160 Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153 Chocolate Chip Pancakes, 1073 Chorizo Black Beans with Peppers and, 76 8 -7 6 9 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Choron Sauce, 297 Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 Chowder Clam, Manhattan-Style, 344 Clam, New England-Style, 340 Conch, 341 Corn, 341 Seafood, Pacific, 342 Chutney Mango, Fresh, 453 Mango, Spicy, 961 Mint and Yogurt, 462 Ciabatta, 1036 CIA Club, 934, 935 Cider. See Apple Cider Cilantro -Lime Soy Sauce, 956 Sorbet, 1149 Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino (Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper), 705 Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1135 Smear, 1046 Sticks, Milk Chocolate, 1136 Sugar, 1043 Swirl, Raisin Bread with, 1042, 1043 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Cipollini Onions, Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes and, 451

Citrus Honey-Poppy Seed Dressing, 898 Marinade, Latin (Mojo), 373 Pasta, 819 Clam(s) Casino, 9 6 6 -9 6 7 Chowder, Manhattan-Style, 344 Chowder, New England-Style, 340 in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 in Fisherman’s Platter, 520 in New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Sea Bass, Poached, with Bacon, Peppers and, 553 Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 Classic Caramel Sauce, 1129,1153 Classic Polish Cucumber Salad (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Coconut Chips, 1150 Flans, 1150 Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596 Macadamia Shrimp, 966 Milk, Thai Chicken Soup with Galangal and, 353 Rice, 7 8 2 -7 8 3 in Vatapa, 512 Cod in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Fish Kebabs, 462 New England Shore Dinner, 5 6 0 -5 6 1 Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 Coddled Eggs, 866 Coffee Ice Cream, 1102,1103 for Profiteroles, 1156,1158 Coleslaw, 920 Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1 Collard Greens Braised, 710 and Ham Bone Soup, 350 Common Meringue, 1024 Compote Blueberry, 1145 Cranberry-Orange, 689 Conch Chowder, 341 Confit Duck, 595 Red Onion, Noisettes of Pork with, 506 Congee, 795 Consomme Beef, 333 Chicken, Royale, 333 Converted White Rice Pilaf, 780 Cookie Dough 1-2-3,1086 Cookies Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1 0 8 6 -1 0 8 7 Chocolate Chunk, 1088 Chocolate Chunk, Cherry-, 1088 Mudslide, 1089 Oatmeal-Raisin, 1089 Pecan Diamonds, 1088 Sable, 1140 Tuile Nut, 1090 Tuiles, 1144 Corn Chicken Rice Soup (Canja), 336 and Chicken Soup, Amish, 334 Chowder, 341 Creamed, 683 Fritters, 707 Grits with Hominy and, 794, 795 and Jicama Salad, 921 New England Shore Dinner, 5 6 0 -5 6 1

Risotto Cakes, and Asiago Cheese, 805 Cornbread, 1079 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Corned Beef Hash, Poached Eggs with, 869 Reuben Sandwich, 942 with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Corn Flake Crunch, 1159 Cornmeal Hush Puppies, 836, 837 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Corn Muffins, 1079 Corona Beans (Fagioli alPUccelletto), 772 Cottage Dill Rolls, 1039 Coulis Raspberry, 1129 Red Pepper, 299 Strawberry, 1146 Tomato, 296 Country Gravy, 516, 517 Country-Style Terrine (Pate de Campagne), 998 Court Bouillon, 265 Couscous, 826 and Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of (Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Lamb and Chicken Stew with, 609 Crab Cakes, Chesapeake-Style, 968, 969 Stuffed Shrimp, 970 Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad, 802, 803 Cranberry -Orange Compote, 689 -Orange Muffins, 1078 -Pecan Pie, 1126 Relish, 961 Crayfish and Chicken Terrine, 996, 1005 Cream(ed). See also Cream Soup(s); Custard; Pastry Cream; Sour Cream Chantilly (Creme Chantilly), 1023, 1146 Chantilly, Orange-Scented, 1138 Corn, 683 Diplomat, 1103 Mousseline Sauce, 298 Pinto Beans (Frijoles Maneados), 772 Ricotta, 1140 Sauce, 295 Scones, 1072 Cream Cheese Cheesecake, 1084 Herbed, Cucumber Sandwich with, 943 Cream Soup(s) of Asparagus (Creme dArgenteuil), 339 of Broccoli, 339 of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339 of Tomato, 339 of Tomato, with Rice, 339 Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing, 904 Creme dArgenteuil (Cream of Asparagus Soup), 339 Creme Brulee, 1099 Creme Caramel, 1100-1101 Creme de Celeri (Cream of Celery Soup), 339 Creme Chantilly, 1023,1146 Orange-Scented, 1138 Crepes Black Bean, Vegetarian, 770, 771 Dessert, 1076 Saigon, 804 Suzette, 1075

RECIPE IN D E X

1 193

Crispy Shallots, 924 Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken, 524 -5 2 5 Croque Monsieur, 937 Croquette Potatoes, 748 Croquettes, Rice, 792 Croutons, 965 Garlic-Flavored, 563 Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta (Tuna Carpaccio), 964, 965 Crumb Crust, 1051 Crust(ed) Ancho-, Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Crumb, 1051 Graham Cracker, 1084,1146 Graham Cracker, for S’mores, 1152 Herb, Barbecued Steak with, 445 Horseradish and Smoked Salmon, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Persillade, 477 Cucumber(s) Barley Salad with Mint and, 800, 801 Dressing, 903 and Onion Salad (Kachumber), 919 Salad, 9 2 2 -9 2 3 Salad, Polish, Classic (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Salad, Yogurt, 923 Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese, 943 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo), 922 Yogurt Sauce, 957 Cumberland Sauce, 955 Curry(ied) Cauliflower, Roasted, 692 Goat with Green Papaya Salad, 608 Mayonnaise, Apple Sandwich with, 943 Onion Relish, 961 Pasta, 819 Pork in a Green Curry Sauce, 596 Rice Salad, 930 Sweet Potato Salad, 749 Vinaigrette, 898 Vinaigrette, Guava-, 899 Curry Paste Green, 370 Red, 370 Yellow, 371 Curry Powder, 369 Custard. See also Quiche(s) Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106 Coconut Flans, 1150 Creme Brulee, 1099 Creme Caramel, 1100-1101 Goat Cheese, Warm, 875 Royale, 333 Sabayon, 1129 Vanilla Sauce, 1099 Zabaglione, 1129

Caramel, Classic, 1129,1153 Caramel, Vanilla 1159 Cherry, Dried, 1130 Chocolate, 1129,1159 Vanilla, 1099 White, 1154 Deviled Eggs, 8 6 6 -8 6 7 with Cheese, 866 with Greens, 866 with Tomato, 866 Devil’s Food Cake, 1082 Dill Butter, 300 Cottage Rolls, 1039 Hanoi Fried Fish with (Cha Ca Thang Long), 527 Sauce, 447 Dim Sum, 837 Dinner Rolls, Soft, 1045 Diplomat Cream, 1103 Dipping Sauce Asian, 956 Cilantro-Lime Soy, 956 Ginger-Soy, 841 Spring Roll, 957 Tempura, 523 Vietnamese, 956 Dough. See also Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg; Pastry Dough Cookie 1-2-3,1086 Lean, Basic, 1033 Pate, 1006-1007 Pate, Saffron, 1006 Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 Samosas, 970 Sweet, 1045 Dried Cherry Sauce, 1130 Duchesse Potatoes, 737 Duck Confit, 595 Jus de Canard Lie, 293 Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Stock, Brown, 264 Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, 1002-1003 Terrine, and Smoked Ham, 1004-1005 Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 1156,1158 Dumplings. See also Gnocchi Biscuit, 835 Bread, 835 Dim Sum, 837 Hush Puppies, 836, 837 Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841 Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled, with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Potstickers, 837 Spatzle, 834 Steamed (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Duxelles Stuffing, 482

d

Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad (Fattoush), 926 Eclairs, 1085 Chocolate, 1085 Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681 Egg(s). See also Custard; Deviled Eggs; Omelet(s); Quiche(s); Souffle(s) Benedict, 870, 871 Coddled, 866 Florentine, 871 French Toast, 878 Fried, 871 Fried, in Bibimbap, 514 Hard-Cooked, 866

Daikon Salad, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922 Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267 Date Spice Cake, Warm, with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Deep-Fried Onions, 581 Delmonico Potatoes, 740 Demi-Glace, 293 Dessert Crepes, 1076 Dessert Sauce Basil, 1145 Butterscotch, 1137

1194

REC IPE IN D E X

e

Hard-Cooked, in Chef’s Salad, 909 Medium-Cooked, 866 Omelet, White, Plain Rolled, 873 Over Easy, Medium or Hard, 871 Pickled, 868 Pickled, Red, 8 6 8 Poached, 868 American-Style, 871 with Chicken Liver Chasseur, 871 with Corned Beef Hash, 869 Farmer-Style, 869 Massena, 869 Mornay, 869 with Mushrooms, 869 with Smoked Salmon, 871 Salad, 925 Scrambled, 872 with Bratwurst, 872 with Cheese, 872 Gratine, 872 Greek-Style, 872 Hunter-Style, 872 Whites, 872 Soft-Cooked, 866 Wash, 1023 White Omelet, Plain Rolled, 873 Whites, Scrambled, 872 Egg Pasta. See Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg Eggplant Baba Ghanoush, 958 Filling, Marinated, 939 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego Cheese, 940 Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 and Prosciutto Panini, 938, 939 Ratatouille, 708 in Scrambled Eggs, Greek-Style, 872 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701 Emince of Swiss-Style Veal, 502, 503 Empanada Gallega de Cerdo (Pork and Pepper Pie), 984 Endive. See Belgian Endive Escarole and White Bean Soup, Tuscan, 355 Espagnole Sauce, 294 Estouffade, 264 European-Style Potato Salad, 926

f

Fagioli all’Uccelletto (Corona Beans), 772 Falafel, 776 Farmer-Style Omelet, 873 Farmer-Style Poached Eggs, 869 Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Biscuits, 564 Fattoush (Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad), 926 Fennel Braised, in Butter, 710 with Chicken Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, 455 Saffron Broth with, Seafood Poached in a, 570 Fig-Almond Vinaigrette, 897 Fillet of Mahi Mahi with PineappleJicama Salsa, 459 Fillet of Snapper en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Fines Herbes, 369 Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Fire-Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette, 899 Fish. See also Anchovy(ies); Salmon; Sole; Trout; Tuna Bass and Scallops en Papillote, 553

Bass, Sea, Poached, with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 Bluefish, Broiled, a l’Anglaise with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Broth, 334 Cakes, Fried, 528 Cakes, Salt Cod, Old-Fashioned, 521 Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963 Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Flounder a l’Orly, 522 Flounder Mousseline, 993 Fried with Dill, Hanoi (Cha Ca Thang Long), 527 Fumet, 264 Kebabs, 462 Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with Pineapple-Jicama Salsa, 459 Marinade, 372 New England Shore Dinner, 560,561 Omelet, Seafood, 873 Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 1009 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3 Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth with Fennel, 570 Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes, 561 Snapper, Fillet of, en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Snapper, Red, with Grapefruit Salsa, 509 Vatapa, 512 Veloute, 294 Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368 Flank Steak, in Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Flans, Coconut, 1150 Flounder in Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Mousseline, 993 a l’Orly, 522 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3 Focaccia, 1034-1035 Foie Gras in Beef Wellington, 463 Roulade, 1001 Terrine, 1001 Fontina Risotto Fritters, 804 Forcemeat. See also Pate; Terrine Chicken Galantine, 1000-1001, 1005 Mushroom, 484 Pork Tenderloin Roulade, 999 Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Frangipane Filling, 1128 Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128 French Dressing, Catalina, 902 French-Fried Potatoes, 747 French-Style Peas, 712 French Toast, 878 Fresh Egg Pasta, 819 Fresh Mango Chutney, 453 Fricassee Chicken, 612 Veal, 612 Fried Bread (Puri), 1074 Fried Eggs, 871 Fried Fish Cakes, 528 Fried Plantain Chips, 708, 709 Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage, 787 Frijoles a la Charra, 773 Frijoles Maneados (Creamed Pinto Beans), 772 Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773 Frijoles Refritos, 771

Fritters Corn, 707 Fontina Risotto, 804 Frog’s Legs, in Seafood Ravigote, 930 Fruit(s). See also specific fruits Salsa, 1130 Sauce, Winter, 505 Fudge Brownies, 1090 Fumet, Fish, 264

g

Gaisburger Marsch (Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes), 570 Galangal, Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk and, 353 Galantine, Chicken, 1 0 0 0-1001,1005 Game Broth, 334 Jus de Gibier Lie, 293 Marinade, Red Wine, 372 Stock, Brown (Jus de Gibier), 264 Venison Terrine, 1002 Game Hen(s) Jerked, 459 Mushroom Forcemeat, 484 Rock Cornish, Breast of, with Mushroom Forcemeat, 483 Ganache, Hard, 1128 Gar am Masala, 368 Garbanzo Beans. See Chickpeas Garlic Aioli, 904 Broccoli Rabe with Hot Crushed Pepper and (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705 Croutons, -Flavored, 563 in Gremolata, 601 in Persillade, 477 in Picada, 612-613 Sauce, Sweet, 524 Toasted, and Broccoli, 681 Vinaigrette, -Lemon, 896 Vinaigrette, Roasted Garlic and Mustard, 896 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho), 349 German Potato Salad, 749 Gigot a la Bretonne (Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs), 480 Ginger(ed) Pickled, 962 Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, 684 -Soy Dipping Sauce, 841 with Sweet Potatoes, Mashed, 738-739 Gla^age, Royal, 557 Glaze(d) Apricot, 1130 Beets, 682, 683 Carrots, 685 Ganache, Hard, 1128 Soy-Sesame, Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Sweet Potatoes, 738 Gnocchi Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3 di Ricotta, 831 di Semolina Gratinati, 831 Goat, Curried, with Green Papaya Salad, 608 Goat Cheese Custard, Warm, 875 Mousse, 953 Mushroom Strudel with, 978 Vegetable Terrine with, 1010 Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich, 944 Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs), 1084

Goulash Beef, 599 Pork, 599 Szekely (Szekely Gulyas), 597 Graham Cracker Chocolate Decor, 1152 Crust, 1084,1146 Crust, for S’mores, 1152 Ice Cream, 1151 Grandmother’s Bean Curd (Ma Po Dofu), 526, 527 Grapefruit Baby Spinach, and Avocado Salad, 918 Salsa, 955 Gratin Dauphinoise (Potatoes au Gratin), 739 Gravlax, 1011 Gravy Country, 516, 517 Pan, Roast Chicken with, 482 Pan, Roast Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing and, 4 8 5 -4 8 6 Greek Salad, 910, 911 Greek-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872 Green Beans Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684 with Walnuts, 685 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 Green Curry Paste, 370 Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596 Green Goddess Dressing, 901 Green Lentil Salad (Salade des Lentilles du Puy), 928 Green Mayonnaise, 903 Green Onion(s) Beef and Scallions, Skewered, 446 Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and, 780 -7 8 1 -Bulgur Pilaf, 7 9 6 -7 9 7 Butter, 300 Oil, 907 Green Papaya Salad, 921 Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Bisi), 783 Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of Pork with Pineapple and, 504 Greens Braised, 710 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Gremolata, 601 Grilled Chicken Breasts with Fennel, 455 Grilled Chicken Breasts with SunDried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 454 Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions, 451 Grilled Meats, Red Wine Marinade for, 374 Grilled Paillards of Chicken with Tarragon Butter, 455 Grilled Pork Chops with Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Grilled Rib Eye Steak, 446 Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with SoySesame Glaze, 6 8 6 - 6 8 7 Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane (Chao Tom), 977 Grilled Sirloin Steak with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Grilled Sirloin Steak with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Grilled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops, 4 4 8 -4 4 9 Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya, 7 9 0 -7 9 1 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego Cheese, 940, 941 Grilled Vegetables Proven^al-Style, 686

Grits with Corn and Hominy, 794, 795 Gruyere Cheese Puffs (Gougeres), 1084 Guacamole, 958 Guava Barbecue Sauce, 467 -Curry Vinaigrette, 899 -Glazed Pork Ribs, 467 Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Guo Tie (Pan-Fried Dumplings), 840, 841

h

Ham Broth, 334 in Club, CIA, 934, 935 Croque Monsieur, 937 Salad, 925 Scones, and Cheddar, 1072 Smoked, and Duck Terrine, 1004-1005 Soup, Ham Bone and Collard Greens, 350 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long), 527 Hard-Cooked Eggs, 866 Hard Rolls, 1036 Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb with (Gigot a la Bretonne), 48 0 Haricots Verts, Pan-Steamed, 684 Harissa, 959 Hash, Corned Beef, Poached Eggs with, 869 Hash Brown Potatoes, 740-741 Herb(s), Herbed. See also specific herbs Bouquet Garni, 774 Cream Cheese, Cucumber Sandwich with, 943 Crust, Barbecued Steak with, 445 Fines Herbes, 369 Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Forcemeat Stuffing, 605 Mayonnaise, 943 Omelet, 873 Pasta, 819 Rub, 982 Sachet d’Epices, 599 Salt, 481 Vinaigrette, -Mustard, 896 Vinaigrette, and Truffle, 900 Hoagie, Philly, 934 Hollandaise Sauce, 298 Lemony, Asparagus with, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9 Homemade Sauerkraut, 593 Hominy, Grits with Corn and, 794, 795 Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus Dressing, 898 Horseradish and Smoked Salmon Crust, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho Apimentado), 457 Hot and Sour Soup Chinese (Suan La Tang), 350 Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354 Hue-Style Chicken Salad, 924 Hummus bi Tahini, 958 Hunter-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872 Hush Puppies, 836, 837

i

Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand Island Dressing, 909 Ice Cream Basil, 1143-1144 Chocolate, 1102,1103 Cinnamon, 1135

Coffee, 1102,1103 Coffee, for Profiteroles, 1156,1158 Dulce de Leche, 1156,1158 Graham Cracker, 1151 Profiteroles, -Filled, 1085 Raspberry, 1103 Vanilla, 1102,1103 Vanilla, for Profiteroles, 1156,1157 Ichi Ban Dashi, 267 Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli (Tuna and Bean Salad), 975 Irish Soda Bread, 1072 Irish Stew, 608 Italian Buttercream, 1125 Italian Meringue, 1024

j

Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790-791 Japanese Salad Dressing, 905 Jap Chae (Stir-Fried Glass Noodles), 822 Jardiniere Vegetables, 705 Jelly Omelet, 873 Jerked Game Hens, 459 Jerk Seasoning, 459 Jicama and Corn Salad, 921 -Pineapple Salsa, 459 Salad, 921 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Julienne Vegetables, 706 Jus, Standing Rib Roast au, 464 Jus Lie d’Agneau (Lamb), 293 de Canard (Duck), 293 de Gibier (Game), 293 Pork Roast with, 465 de Veau (Veal), 293 de Volaille (Chicken), 293

k

Kachumber (Onion and Cucumber Salad), 919 Kalbi Jjim (Korean Braised Short Ribs), 5 8 2 -5 8 3 Kale, Braised, 710 Kao Paigu (Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs), 476 Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans, 799 Kebabs. See also Skewers, Skewered Fish, 462 Lamb, with Pimiento Butter, Broiled, 447 Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and, 971 Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147 Kombu, in Ichi Ban Dashi, 266 Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalbi Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3

1

Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu), 476 Lamb, 227 Broth, 334 in Cassoulet, 594 and Chicken Stew, Couscous with, 609 Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions, 451 Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 Jus d’Agneau Lie, 293

RECIPE IN D E X

1195

Lamb, continued Kebabs with Pimiento Butter, Broiled, 447 Khorma, 607 Leg of, Roast, Boulangere, 476 Leg of, Roast, with Haricots Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne), 480 Leg of, Roast, with Mint Sauce, 481 Leg of, Stuffed, Portuguese, 605 Marinade, 373 Navarin, 606 Patties, Pakistani-Style, 454 Rack of, Roast, Persille, 477 Shanks, Braised, 604 Shoulder of, Roasted, and Couscous (Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Stew, Irish, 608 Stock, Brown, 264 Lasagna Asparagus and White Bean, 829 Bolognese, Classic, with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 Latin Citrus Marinade (Mojo), 373 Latkes, Potato, 743 Lean Dough, Basic, 1033 Leek and Tomato Quiche, 876 Lemon(s) Asparagus with Lemony Hollandaise, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9 Cumberland Sauce, 955 Curd, 1145 Meringue Pie, 1127 Preserved, 611 Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote, 1142-1145 Vinaigrette, -Garlic, 896 Vinaigrette, -Parsley, 896 Lentil Salad, Green (Salade des Lentilles du Puy), 928 Lentil Soup, Puree of, 344 Lima Beans, Roman-Style, 774 Lime -Cilantro Soy Sauce, 956 Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147 Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard), 348 Broiled Stuffed, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 New England Shore Dinner, 560 -5 6 1 Salad with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil, 983 Lo Han (Steamed Long-Grain Rice), 785 Lorette Potatoes, 748 Lyonnaise Potatoes, 739

m Macadamia Coconut Shrimp, 966 Macedoine of Vegetables, 706 Madeira Sauce, 463 Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with PineappleJicama Salsa, 459 Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 300 Maltaise Sauce, 298 Malt Vinegar and Peanut Oil Dressing, 900 Mamuang Kao Nieo (Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos), 787 Manchego Cheese, Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with, 940, 941 Mango(s) Chutney, Fresh, 453 Chutney, Spicy, 961 Ketchup, Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and, 971

1196

REC IPE IN D E X

Lobster Salad with Beets, Avocado, Orange Oil and, 983 and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Sticky Rice, Thai, with (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Manhattan-Style Clam Chowder, 344 Maple Pecans, Spicy, Kasha with, 799 Ma Po Dofu (Grandmothers Tofu), 527 Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Margherita Pizza, 1037 Mar i Muntanya (Chicken and Prawn Ragout), 612-613 Marinade(s) Asian-Style, 372 Barbecue, 372 for Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 for Beef and Scallions, Skewered, 446 for Bibimbap, 514 for Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 for Chicken Breast, Barbecued, with Black Bean Sauce, 458 for Chicken Paillards, Grilled, with Tarragon Butter, 455 for Chicken, Pan-Smoked, 483 for Chicken, Tangerine-Flavored, Crispy, 5 2 4 -5 2 5 Citrus, Latin (Mojo), 373 Eggplant Filling, Marinated, 939 Fish, 372 for Fish Kebabs, 462 Lamb, 373 for Lamb Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions, 451 for Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 for Lamb Khorma, 607 Peppers, Marinated Roasted, 694, 695 for Pork, Cantonese Roast (Char Siu), 466 for Pork Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467 for Pork Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476 for Pork and Veal Skewers (Raznijci), 447 for Pork Vindaloo, 596 Red Wine Game, 372 Red Wine, for Grilled Meats, 374 for Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446 for Sauerbraten, 587 for Shrimp, Coconut Macadamia, 966 Teriyaki, 374 for Teriyaki, Beef, 445 Vegetables, Marinated Grilled, 686 for Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese, 1010 Marinated Eggplant Filling, 939 Marinated Grilled Vegetables, 686 Marinated Roasted Peppers, 694, 695 Marmalade, Roasted Red Pepper, 960 Marsala Sauce, 463, 504 Marshmallow, 1152 Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Ginger, 738-739 Mayonnaise, 903 Ai'oli, 904 Anchovy-Caper, 903 for Cole Slaw, 470 Curry, Apple Sandwich with, 943 Green, 903 Herb, Watercress Sandwich with, 943 Remoulade Sauce, 520 Tartar Sauce, 903

Meat. See also specific meats Brine, 999 and Cheese Omelet, 873 in Chefs Salad, 909 in Philly Hoagie, 934 Sauce, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Sauce, Pork Rolls and Sausage in, Braised, with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for, 371 Stock, and Poultry (Brodo), 266 Mechoui (Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Medium-Cooked Eggs, 866 Melon Salad, Summer, with Prosciutto, 919 Meringue Common, 1024 Italian, 1024 Lemon Meringue Pie, 1127 Swiss, 1024 Middle Eastern Chickpeas, 774 Milanese Sauce, 519 Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks, 1136 Millet and Cauliflower Puree, 796 Minestrone alia Emiliana (Vegetable Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style), 357 Mint Barley Salad with Cucumber and, 800, 801 Sauce (Paloise), 297 Sauce, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481 and Yogurt Chutney, 462 Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696 Miso Soup, 353 Mixed Bean Salad, 929 Mixed Grain Pilaf, 796 Mixed Green Salad, 907 Mixed Grill, Brazilian, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Mizeria Klasyczna (Classic Polish Cucumber Salad), 920 Mojo (Latin Citrus Marinade), 373 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Molho Apimentado (Hot Pepper Sauce), 457 Monkfish, in Vatapa, 512 Mornay Sauce, 295 Poached Eggs, 869 Scrambled Eggs Gratine, 872 Moroccan Carrot Salad, 920 Moules a la Mariniere (Mussels with White Wine and Shallots), 974, 975 Mousse Blue Cheese, 953 Chocolate, 1104 Goat Cheese, 953 Raspberry, 1104-1105 Saffron, Poached Trout with, 5 5 4 -5 5 5 Smoked Salmon, 953 Mousseline Chicken, 996 Flounder, 993 Pork, 999 Salmon, 555, 993 Sauce, 298 Sole, 555 Trout and Saffron, 555 Mozzarella in Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad, 8 02, 803 in Eggplant Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 and Tomato Salad, 928 Mu Chae (Sliced Daikon Salad), 922

Mudslide Cookies, 1089 Muffin(s) Basic Recipe, 1078 Blueberry, 1078,1080 Bran, 1078 Corn, 1079 Cranberry-Orange, 1078 Mushroom(s) in Bean Curd, Grandmother’s (Ma Po Dofu), 526,527 Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts, 916, 917 Duxelles Stuffing, Chicken Legs with, 482 Forcemeat, 484 in Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822 Omelet Marcel, 873 Poached Eggs with, 869 Portobello, Tofu Cakes with Mango Ketchup and, 971 Quesadillas with Two Salsas, 700 Risotto, Wild Mushroom, 783 in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784 Sauce, 440 Sauce, Bercy, 830 Sausage, 598 Shiitake, Grilled, with Soy-Sesame Glaze, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Strudel with Goat Cheese, 978 Supreme Sauce, 294 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Vegetable Sandwich, Grilled, with Manchego Cheese, 940 Mussels in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 in New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Risotto with, 784 with White Wine and Shallots (Moules a la Mariniere), 975 Mustard Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina Eastern Low Country Sauce), 4 69 Spicy, 960 Vinaigrette, -Herb, 896 Vinaigrette, and Roasted Garlic, 896

n

Naan Bread, 1038,1039 New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 New England-Style Clam Chowder, 340 New Mexican Green Chile Stew, 595 Niban Dashi, 266 Noisettes of Pork with Green Peppercorns and Pineapple, 504 Noisettes of Pork with Red Onion Confit, 506 Noodle(s) Glass, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822 Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3 Soup, Beef (Pho Bo), 569 Summer Squash, 704 Tempeh Cashew, 824, 825 Udon Noodle Pot, 566 North Carolina Eastern Low Country Sauce (Mustard Barbecue Sauce), 469 North Carolina Piedmont Sauce, 469 North Carolina Western Barbecue Sauce, 469 Nut-Banana Bread, 1079,1080 Nut Tuile Cookies, 1090

o Oatmeal Cookies, -Raisin, 1089 Oatmeal Pancakes, 1073 Octopus “Fairground Style” (Pulpo a Feira), 976 Oil(s) Basil, 906 Green Onion, 907 Orange, 907 Paprika, 907 Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes, 521 Olives in Greek Salad, 910, 911 Provencal Sauce, 501 Tapenade, 959 Omelet(s) Cheddar, Soufleed, 874 Cheese, 873 Cheese and Vegetable, 873 Egg White, Plain Rolled, 873 Farmer-Style, 873 Florentine, 873 Herb, 873 Jelly, 873 Marcel, 873 Meat and Cheese, 873 Opera, 873 Plain Rolled, 8 7 2 -8 7 3 Potato (Tortilla Espanola), 979 Seafood, 873 Shellfish, 873 Spanish, 873 Tomato, 873 Western, 873 for Wonton Soup, 354 -3 5 5 1-2-3 Cookie Dough, 1086 Onion(s) Cipollini, Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes and, 451 and Cucumber Salad (Kachumber), 919 Deep-Fried, 581 Deep-Fried, Baked Potatoes with, 735 Quiche, Caramelized, 876 Red, Confit, Noisettes of Pork with, 506 Red, Pickled, 962 Relish, Curried, 961 Soup, 335 Soup Gratinee, 335 Soup, White, 335 Sweet and Sour, Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with, 937 Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sweet and Sour Onions, 937 Orange(s) Chayote Salad with (Salada de Xuxu), 919 -Cranberry Compote, 689 -Cranberry Muffins, 1078 Creme Chantilly, -Scented, 1138 Cumberland Sauce, 955 Maltaise Sauce, 298 Oil, 907 Wheat Berry Salad with Cherries, Pecans and, 798, 799 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan, 820, 821 Oregano Sour Cream, Tomato Sandwich with, 944 and Sun-Dried Tomato Butter, 300 Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1 Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 6 9 2 -6 9 3 Oxtails, Braised, 581 Oysters, in Fishermans Platter, 520

P

Pacific Seafood Chowder, 342 Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3 Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties, 454 Paloise Sauce (M int), 297 Pancakes. See also Crepes Amaranth, 803 Banana, 1073 Blueberry, 1073 Buttermilk, 1073 Chocolate Chip, 1073 Oatmeal, 1073 Potato, 742, 743 Potato Latkes, 743 Spinach, 707 Zucchini, with Tzatziki, 6 8 8 Pan-Fried Breaded Pork Cutlets, 518 Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon, 522 Pan-Fried Dumplings (Guo Tie), 840, 841 Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets, 518 Pan-Fried Zucchini, 707 Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto, 938, 939 Pan-Smoked Chicken, 483 Pan-Steamed Carrots, 684 Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684 Panzanella, 927 Papaya -Black Bean Salsa, 955 Green Papaya Salad, 921 en Papillote Bass and Scallops, 553 Snapper, Fillet of, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Paprika Oil, 907 Parmesan Eggplant, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe and, 820, 821 Polenta with, 792, 793 Risotto, 783 Parsley in Gremolata, 601 -Lemon Vinaigrette, 8 9 6 Persillade, 477 Potatoes, Boiled, 736, 737 Passion and Mango-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Pasta. See also Lasagna; Noodle(s) Basic Boiled, 819 alia Carbonara, 821 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan, 820, 821 Ravioli Bercy, 830 Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Salad with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925 Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg, 819 Beet, 819 Black Pepper, 819 Buckwheat, 819 Carrot, 819 Citrus, 819 Curried, 819 Herbed, 819 Pumpkin, 819 Red Pepper, 819 Saffron, 819 Spinach, 819 Tomato, 819 Whole Wheat, 819 Pastry(ies). See also Pastry Dough; Pie(s); Quiche(s); Tart(s) Eclairs, 1085

Eclairs, Chocolate, 1085 Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs), 1084 Phyllo Tubes, 1137 Profiteroles, 1085 Profiteroles (Plated Dessert), 1156-1160 Profiteroles, Ice Cream-Filled, 1085 Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Cheese, 978 Pastry Cream, 1098 Chocolate, 1098 for Souffles, 1099 Pastry Dough Pate a Choux, 1084 Pate a Choux, Chocolate, 1160 Pate Brisee, 701 Pie (3-2-1), Basic, 1070 Puff Pastry, 1076-1077 Puff Pastry, Blitz, 1077 Tartlet Shells, 1144 Pate de Campagne (Country-Style Terrine), 998 Chicken Liver, 1004,1005 en Croute, Seafood, 1008-1 0 0 9 Dough, 1 0 0 6-1007 Dough, Saffron, 1006 Grand-Mere, 994 Spice, 1011 Pate a Choux, 1084 Chocolate, 1160 Pate Brisee, 701 Paupiettes Sole, Veronique, Poached, 557 Trout, Poached, with Vin Blanc Sauce, 556 Pea(s) French-Style, 712 Risotto, Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783 Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, Gingered, 684 Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345 Split Pea Soup, Yellow, Puree of, 345 Peanut Dressing, 902 Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar Dressing, 900 Peanut Sauce Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Pear(s) Blackberry and Port-Poached, with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Frangipane Tartlets, 1128 and Gorgonzola Sandwich, 944 Poached, 1128 Pearl Barley Pilaf, 780 Pecan(s) Brown Rice Pilaf with Green Onions and, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Carrots, 684 Diamonds, 1088 Pie, 1126 Pie, Cranberry-, 1126 Spicy Maple, Kasha with, 799 Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges, Cherries and, 798, 799 Peperoni Arrostiti (Roasted Peppers), 928 Pepper Black Peppercorn Dressing, Creamy, 904 Black Pepper Pasta, 819 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368 Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of Pork with Pineapple and, 504 Hot Crushed, Broccoli Rabe, with Garlic and (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705

Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho Apimentado), 457 Pepper(s). See Bell Peppers; Chiles; Red Pepper(s) Persillade, 477 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3 Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Pesto, 299 Pesto Vinaigrette, 901 Philly Hoagie, 934 Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup), 569 Phyllo Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Cheese, 978 Tubes, 1137 Picada, 612-613 Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles Rellenos con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese (Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce), 519 Pickle(d) Charcutiere Sauce, 508 Eggs, 868 Eggs, Red, 868 Ginger, 962 Red Onions, 962 Sweet, 472 Pico de Gallo, 953 Pie(s). See also Quiche(s); Tart(s) Apple, 1125 Cherry, 1126 Cranberry-Pecan, 1126 Dough, Basic (3-2-1), 1070 Lemon Meringue, 1127 Pecan,1126 Pork and Pepper (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo), 984 Pumpkin, 1127 Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled, with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Pilaf. See also Rice Pilaf Bulgur-Green Onion, 7 9 6 -7 9 7 Mixed Grain, 796 Pearl Barley, 780 Wheat Berry, 780 Wild Rice, 780 Pimiento Butter, 300 Pineapple -Jicama Salsa, 459 Mango and Passion-Poached, with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Noisettes of Pork with Green Peppercorns and, 504 Pinto Beans Creamed (Frijoles Maneados), 772 Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773 Pistachios, Duck Terrine with Dried Cherries and, 1002-1003 Pita Bread, 1037 Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 Margherita, 1037 Spinach, 1037 Plain Rolled Omelet, 8 7 2 -8 7 3 Plantain Chips, Fried, 708, 709 Tostones, 708 Plated Desserts Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Date Spice Cake, Warm, with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147

RECIPE IN DEX

1197

Plated Desserts, continued Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote, 1142-1145 Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Profiteroles, 1156-1160 S’mores, 1151-1155 Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce, 563 Poached Eggs. See Egg(s), Poached Poached Pears, 1128 Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth with Fennel, 570 Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique, 557 Poached Sole with Saffron Mousse, 555 Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558 Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin Blanc Sauce, 556 Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse, 554 -5 5 5 Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Polenta Basic, 792 with Parmesan, 792, 793 Polish Cucumber Salad, Classic (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Polish Stuffed Cabbage, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Poppy Seed-Honey-Citrus Dressing, 898 Pork. See also Bacon; Ham; Sausage Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9 Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Broth, Smoked, 334 Butt with Coleslaw, 470 -4 7 1 in Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 in Cassoulet, 594 Chops, Baked Stuffed, 465 Chops, Grilled or Broiled, with Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Chops, Grilled Smoked Iowa, 4 4 8 -4 4 9 in Choucroute, 5 9 2-593, 593 Cutlet with Sauce Robert, 508 Cutlets, Pan-Fried Breaded, 518 Dim Sum, 837 Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841 Dumplings, Steamed (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Goulash, 599 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 in a Green Curry Sauce, 596 Medallions with Cabbage Salad, Warm, 506 Medallions of, Sauteed, with Winter Fruit Sauce, 505 Mousseline, 999 Noisettes of, with Green Peppercorns and Pineapple, 504 Noisettes of, with Red Onion Confit, 506 Pate Grand-Mere, 994 and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo), 984 Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles Rellenos con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467

RE CIPE IN DEX

Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476 Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475 Roast, Cantonese (Char Siu), 466 Roast with Jus Lie, 465 Rolls and Sausage, Braised, in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Scaloppine with Tomato Sauce, 503 Skewers, and Veal (Raznjici), 447 in Spring Rolls, 980 Stock, Brown, 264 Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597 Tenderloin Roulade, 999 Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de Campagne), 998 Tinga Poblano, 530 Vindaloo, 596 Port and Blackberry-Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Portobello Mushrooms, Tofu Cakes with Mango Ketchup and, 971 Portuguese Stuffed Leg of Lamb, 605 Potage Garbure, 346 Potato(es) Anna, 744 Baked, with Deep-Fried Onions, 735 Beef, Boiled, with Spatzle and (Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Berny, 747 Chateau, 740 in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 , 593 Corned Beef, Hash, Poached Eggs with, 869 Corned Beef Hash with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Croquette, 748 Delmonico, 740 Duchesse, 737 French-Fried, 747 Gnocchi Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3 au Gratin (Gratin Dauphinoise), 739 in Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 Hash Brown, 740-741 Latkes, 743 in Leg of Lamb Boulangere, Roast, 476 Lorette, 748 Lyonnaise, 739 Macaire, 744 in New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Omelet (Tortilla Espanola), 979 Pancakes, 742, 743 Parsley, Boiled, 736, 737 Pierogi, and Cheddar-Filled, with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Potage Garbure, 346 Roasted Tuscan-Style, 738 Rosti, 744-745 Salad, 926 Salad, European-Style, 926 Salad, German, 749 in Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 Souffied, 748 in Tinga Poblano, 530 Tortilla de Papas, 750 Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet), 979 Vichyssoise, 347 Whipped, 517, 735 Pot Roast, Yankee, 586

Potstickers, 837 Poule au Pot (Chicken with Vegetables), 565 Poultry and Meat Stock (Brodo), 266 Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for, 371 Pound Cake, 1081 Prawn and Chicken Ragout (Mar i Muntanya), 6 12-613 Preserved Lemons, 611 Profiteroles, 1085 Ice Cream-Filled, 1085 Plated Dessert, 1156-1160 Prosciutto and Eggplant Panini, 938, 939 Melon Salad with, Summer, 919 Proven^al(-Style) Beef Tournedos, 501 Chicken, 501 Sauce, 501 Vegetables, Grilled, 686 Pudding, Bread and Butter, 1106 Puff Pastry in Beef Wellington, 463 Dough, 1076-1077 Dough, Blitz, 1077 Pulpo a Feira (Octopus “Fairground Style”), 976 Pumpkin Bread, 1080,1081 Pasta, 819 Pie, 1127 Puree. See also Coulis Butternut Squash, 691 Millet and Cauliflower, 796 Puree Soup(s) Bean, Senate, 346 of Black Bean, Caribbean-Style, 345 of Lentil, 344 Potage Garbure, 346 of Split Pea, 345 of Split Pea, Yellow, 345 Vichyssoise, 347 Puri (Fried Bread), 1074

q

Qinchao Shanghai Baicai (Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy), 70 2 -7 0 3 Quatre Epices, 369 Quesadillas, Mushroom, with Two Salsas, 700 Quiche(s) Broccoli and Cheddar, 876 Lorraine, 876 Onion, Caramelized, 876 Smoked Salmon and Dill, 876 Spinach, 876 Tomato and Leek, 876 Quick Bread. See Bread(s), Quick

r

Ragout, Chicken and Prawn (Mar i Muntanya), 6 12-613 Ragu Bolognese (Bolognese Sauce), 296 Raisin Bread with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042, 1043 -Oatmeal Cookies, 1089 Scones, 1072 Ranch-Style Dressing, 905 Raspberry Coulis, 1129 Ice Cream, 1103 Mousse, 1104-1105 Ratatouille, 708 Ravigote, Seafood, 930

Ravioli Bercy, 830 Raznjici (Pork and Veal Skewers), 447 Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777 Red Cabbage, Braised, 711 Red Curry Paste, 370 Red Onion(s) Confit, Noisettes of Pork with, 506 Pickled, 962 Red Pepper(s) Artichoke and Pepper Salad, 750 Coulis, 299 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Marinated Roasted, 695 Pasta, 819 Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960 Red Pickled Eggs, 868 Red Snapper. See Snapper Red Wine Marinade Game, 372 for Grilled Meats, 374 Lamb, 372 for Sauerbraten, 587 Red Wine Sauce Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Marchand de Vin, 441 Milanese, 519 Red Wine Vinaigrette, 896 and Walnut Oil, 901 Relish Cranberry, 961 Onion, Curried, 961 Remoulade Sauce, 520 Reuben Sandwich, 942 Tempeh, 942 Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446 Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464 Ribs, Pork Guava-Glazed, 467 Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476 St. Louis-Style, 475 Rice. See also Rice Pilaf; Risotto; Wild Rice Annatto, 781 Arroz Blanco, 781 Arroz Brasileiro, 782 Arroz Mexicano, 782 Basic Boiled, 785 and Beans, 776 Chicken Soup (Canja), 336 Coconut, 7 8 2 -7 8 3 Congee, 795 Croquettes, 792 Fried, with Chinese Sausage, 787 in Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790-791 Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777 Saffron, 788 Salad, Curried, 930 Steamed Long-Grain (Lo Han), 444, 785 Sticky, Thai, with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Sushi, 785 Tomato Soup with, Cream of, 339 Rice Pilaf, 780 Brown, with Pecans and Green Onions, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Converted White, 780 Short-Grain Brown, 781 Short-Grain White (Valencia), 780 Wild Rice, 780 Ricotta Cream, 1140 Gnocchi di, 831

in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Risi e Bisi (Green Pea Risotto), 783 Risotto, 783 with Asparagus, 783 Cakes, Corn and Asiago Cheese, 805 Fritters, Fontina, 804 Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783 alia Milanese, 783 with Mussels, 784 Parmesan, 783 Vegetarian, 784 Wild Mushroom, 783 Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy, 482 Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Roasted Carrots, 695 Roasted Garlic and Mustard Vinaigrette, 896 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960 Roasted Peppers (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous (Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes, 738 Roasted Vegetable Stock, 265 Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere, 476 Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne), 480 Roast Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce, 481 Roast Rack of Lamb Persille, 477 Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut Stuffing, 4 8 5 - 4 8 6 Robert Sauce, 508 Robiola Cheese, Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Walnuts and, 916, 917 Rock Cornish Game Hen, Breast of, with Mushroom Forcemeat, 4 8 3 -4 8 4 Rolls Cottage Dill, 1039 Hard, 1036 Soft Dinner, 1045 Romaine, Braised, 711 Roman-Style Lima Beans, 774 Roquefort, Endive Salad with Walnuts and (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Rosemary, Grilled Lamb Chops with Artichokes, Cipollini Onions and, 451 Rosti Potatoes, 744-745 Roulade Foie Gras, 1001 Pork Tenderloin, 999 Rouladen, Beef, in Burgundy Sauce, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Rouladen Stuffing, 585 Royale Custard, 333 Royal Gla^age, 557 Russian Dressing, 942

S Sabayon, 1129 Sable Cookies, 1140 Sachet d’Epices, 599, 774 Saffron Broth with Fennel, Seafood Poached in a, 570 Pasta, 819 Pate Dough, 1006

Rice, 788 and Trout Mousseline, 555 Saigon Crepes, 804 St. Louis-Style Ribs, 475 Salad(s) Artichoke and Pepper, 750 Barley, with Cucumber and Mint, 800, 801 Bean, Mixed, 929 Bean Curd, Smoked, and Celery, 908 Black-Eyed Pea, Warm, 929 Bread, Eastern Mediterranean (Fattoush), 926 Bulgur, Sweet and Spicy, 800 Cabbage, Warm, 506 Caesar, 908 Carrot, Moroccan, 920 Celeriac and Tart Apple, 918 Chayote, with Oranges (Salada de Xuxu), 919 Chefs, 909 Chicken, 923 Chicken, Hue-Style, 924 Cobb, 912, 913 Coleslaw, 920 Corn and Jicama, 921 Cracked Wheat and Tomato, 802, 803 Cucumber, 9 2 2 -9 2 3 Cucumber, Polish, Classic (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Cucumber and Wakame (Sunonomo), 922 Cucumber, Yogurt, 923 Daikon, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922 Egg, 925 Endive, with Roquefort and Walnuts (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Greek, 910, 911 Green, Mixed, 907 Ham, 925 Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand Island Dressing, 909 Jicama, 921 Lentil, Green (Salade des Lentilles du Puy), 928 Lobster, with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil, 983 Melon, Summer, with Prosciutto, 919 Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts, 916, 917 Onion and Cucumber (Kachumber), 919 Panzanella, 927 Papaya, Green, 921 Pasta, with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925 Peppers, Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Potato, 926 Potato, European-Style, 926 Potato, German, 749 Rice, Curried, 930 Seafood Ravigote, 930 Shrimp, 925 Spinach, Baby, Avocado, and Grapefruit, 918 Spinach, Wilted, with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 9 14-915 Sweet Potato, Curried, 749 Taco, 913 Thai Table, 908 Tomato and Mozzarella, 928 Tuna, 924 Tuna and Bean (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli), 975

Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta), 964, 965 Waldorf, 918 Watercress and Apple, Sherried, 917 Wheat Berry, with Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans, 798,7 9 9 Salada de Xuxu (Chayote Salad with Oranges), 919 Salad Dressing. See also Mayonnaise; Oil(s); Vinaigrette Black Peppercorn, Creamy, 904 Blue Cheese, 904 in Caesar Salad, 908 Caesar-Style, 902 Catalina French, 902 Cucumber, 903 Green Goddess, 901 Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus, 898 Japanese, 905 Peanut, 902 Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar, 900 Ranch-Style, 905 Russian, 942 Thousand Island, 906 Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives (Endive Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts), 910-911 Salade des Lentilles du Puy (Green Lentil Salad), 928 Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981 Salmon Ancho-Crusted, with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Fillet with Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust, 4 8 6 Gravlax, 1011 Mousseline, 555 Smoked and Horseradish Crust, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Mousse, 953 Platter, 963 Poached Eggs with, 871 Quiche, and Dill, 876 Terrine, and Seafood, 993 Salsa Cruda, 965 Fruit, 1130 Grapefruit, 955 Papaya-Black Bean, 955 Pico de Gallo, 953 Pineapple-Jicama, 459 Roja, 954 Summer Squash, 699 Verde Asada, 954 Verde Cruda, 954 Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 Salt Herbs, 481 Samosas, 970 Sandwich(es) Apple, with Curry Mayonnaise, 943 Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 - 4 6 9 Barbecued Beef, 936 Cheese Melt, Three-, 940 Chicken Burger, 936 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Croque Monsieur, 937 Cucumber, with Herbed Cream Cheese, 943 Gorgonzola and Pear, 944 Hoagie, Philly, 934 Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto, 938, 939 Reuben, 942 Reuben, Tempeh, 942 Tomato, with Oregano Sour Cream, 944 Turkey, Open-Faced, with Sweet and Sour Onions, 937 Vegetable, Grilled, with Manchego Cheese, 940, 941

Watercress, with Herb Mayonnaise, 943 Satay Beef, with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Seitan, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Sauce(s). See also Butter(s); Dessert Sauce; Dipping Sauce; Gravy; Salsa Apple Cider, 448 Barbecue. See Barbecue Sauce Bearnaise, 297 Bechamel, 295 Bigarade, Roast Duckling with, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Black Bean, 458 Black Ink, Baby Squid in (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Charcutiere, 508 Cheddar Cheese, 295 Choron, 297 Cream, 295 Cumberland, 955 Demi-Glace, 293 Dill, 447 Espagnole, 294 Fines Herbes, 500 Fruit, Winter, 505 Garlic, Sweet, 524 Green Curry, Pork in, 596 Hollandaise, 298 Hollandaise, Lemony, Asparagus with, 6 8 8 -6 8 9 Hot Pepper (Molho Apimentado), 457 Jus Lie. See Jus Lie Madeira, 463 Maltaise, 298 Marchand de Vin, 441 Marsala, 463, 504 Meat, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Meat, Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in, with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Milanese, 519 Mint (Paloise), 297 Mint, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Mornay, 295 Mousseline, 298 Mushroom, 440 Mushroom Bercy, 830 Peanut, Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Peanut, Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Pesto, 299 Provencal, 501 Red Pepper Coulis, 299 Remoulade, 520 Robert, 508 Sherry Vinegar, 450 Southwest-Style, Chef Clark’s, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 Supreme, 294 Taco, 914 Tarragon, Poached Chicken Breast with, 563 Tomato, 295 Tomato Coulis, 296 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 Veloute. See Veloute Veracruzana, Pescado, 562 Vin Blanc, Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and, 558 Vin Blanc, Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556 Yellow Pepper, 511 Yogurt Cucumber, 957

RECIPE IN D E X

1199

Sauerbraten, 587 Sauerkraut Braised, 712 in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 Homemade, 593 in Reuben Sandwich, 942 in Reuben, Tempeh, 942 in Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597 Sausage Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with, 872 in Cassoulet, 594 Chinese, Fried Rice with, 787 Chorizo, Black Beans with Peppers and, 7 6 8 -7 6 9 in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3 Italian, Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe, Parmesan and, 820, 821 in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 Mushroom, 598 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 and Pork Rolls, Braised, in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Sauteed Arugula, 702 Sauteed Chicken with Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Sauteed Medallions of Pork with Winter Fruit Sauce, 505 Sauteed Trout a la Meuniere, 513 Savory Cheese Souffle, 874 Scallions. See also Green Onion(s) and Beef, Skewered, 446 Scallops and Bass en Papillote, 553 Cioppino, 562 -5 6 3 Fisherman’s Platter, 520 New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Seviche of, 962 Scaloppine Pork, with Tomato Sauce, 503 Veal, Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4 Scones Cream, 1072 Ham and Cheddar, 1072 Raisin, 1072 Scrambled Eggs. See Egg(s), Scrambled Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes, 561 Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 Seafood. See Fish; Octopus; Shellfish; Squid Seasonal Vegetable Tarts, 701 Seasoning Mixes. See Spice Mixes Seitan Satay, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Semolina Gnocchi di, Gratinati, 831 Pizza Crust, 1037 Senate Bean Soup, 346 Sesame-Soy Glaze, Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Seviche of Scallops, 962 Shallots, Crispy, 924 Shao-Mai (Steamed Dumplings), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Shellfish. See also Clam(s); Lobster; Mussels; Shrimp Broth, 334 Chowder, Conch, 341 Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Crab Cakes, Chesapeake-Style, 9 68, 969 Essence, 996

1200

REC IPE IN D E X

Fisherman’s Platter, 520 New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Omelet, 873 Omelet, Seafood, 873 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 1009 Poached in a Saffron Broth with Fennel, Seafood, 570 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Scallops and Bass en Papillote, 553 Scallops, Seviche of, 962 Stock, 264 Terrine, Crayfish and Chicken, 996 Terrine, Seafood and Salmon, 993 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Sherried Watercress and Apple Salad, 917 Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Shiitake Mushrooms in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822 Grilled, with Soy-Sesame Glaze, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Short-Grain Brown Rice Pilaf, 781 Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf (Valencia), 780 Short Ribs, Braised, 584 Korean (Kalbi Jjim ), 5 8 2 -5 8 3 Shrimp Bisque, 347 Broiled, with Garlic, 969 Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342 in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Coconut Macadamia, 966 in Dumplings, Steamed (ShaoMai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 in Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Gumbo, and Chicken, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 in Hot and Sour Soup, Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354 Mirlitons, -Stuffed, 696 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled (Chao Tom), 977 Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 1009 Ragout, Prawn and Chicken (Mar i Muntanya), 612-613 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Salad, 925 in Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981 in Samosas, 970 Stuffed, 970 Tempura, 523 Ticin-Xic, 513 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 in Vatapa, 512 Veloute, 294 Simple Syrup, 1023 Sirloin Steak Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445 Grilled or Broiled, with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Grilled or Broiled, with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Grilled or Broiled, with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Skewers, Skewered Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Beef and Scallions, 446 Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Butter, Broiled, 447 Pork and Veal (Raznjici), 447 Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled (Chao Tom), 977

Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae), 922 Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad, 908 Smoked Brisket with Sweet Pickles, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 , 537 Smoked Salmon. See Salmon, Smoked S’mores, 1151-1155 Snapper Fillet of, en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 in Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Red, with Grapefruit Salsa, 509 Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, Gingered, 684 Soda Bread, Irish, 1072 Soft-Cooked Eggs, 866 Soft Dinner Rolls, 1045 Sole Mousseline, 555 Paupiettes Veronique, Poached, 557 Poached, with Saffron Mousse, 555 Poached, with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558 Sorbet, Cilantro, 1149 Souffle(s) Artichoke, 875 Cheese, Savory, 874 Chocolate, 1106 Pastry Cream for, 1099 Spinach, 874 Souffleed Cheddar Omelet, 874 Souffleed Potatoes, 748 Soup(s). See also Broth; Chowder; Consomme; Stock(s) Bean, Senate, 346 Beef Noodle (Pho Bo), 569 Beef, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351 Bisque, Lobster, 348 Bisque, Shrimp, 347 Black Bean, Puree of, CaribbeanStyle, 345 Cheddar Cheese and Beer, Wisconsin, 340 Chicken Rice (Canja), 336 Chicken, Thai, with Coconut Milk and Galangal, 353 Corn and Chicken, Amish, 334 Cream of Asparagus (Creme d’Argenteuil), 339 of Broccoli, 339 of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339 of Tomato, 339 of Tomato with Rice, 339 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho), 349 Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Ham Bone and Collard Greens, 350 Hot and Sour, Chinese (Suan La Tang), 350 Hot and Sour, Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354 Lentil, Puree of, 344 Minestrone, 357 Miso, 353 Onion, 335 Onion, Gratinee, 335 Onion, White, 335 Potage Garbure, 346 Split Pea, Puree of, 345 Split Pea, Yellow, Puree of, 345 Tortilla, 335 Vegetable, Emilia-Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana), 357 Vichyssoise, 347 White Bean and Escarole, Tuscan, 355 Wonton, 3 5 4 -3 5 5

Sour Cream Oregano, Tomato Sandwich with, 944 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 White Sauce, 1154 Southwest-Style Sauce, Chef Clark’s, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 Southwest White Bean Stew, 775 Soy Cilantro-Lime Sauce, 956 -Ginger Dipping Sauce, 841 -Sesame Glaze, Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Soybeans, Boiled Edamame, 444, 681 Spaghetti Squash, 690, 691 Spanish Omelet, 873 Spatzle, 834 Spice Mixes. See also specific spices Barbecue, 368 Bouquet Garni, 774 Chili Powder, 368 Curry Powder, 369 Fines Herbes, 369 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368 Garam Masala, 368 Jerk Seasoning, 459 for Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of, and Couscous (Mechoui), 478 for Mushroom Sausage, 598 Pate, 1011 Quatre Epices, 369 Sachet d’Epices, 599, 774 for Spit-Roasted Meats and Poultry, 371 Spice Paste Curry, Green, 370 Curry, Red, 370 Curry, Yellow, 371 for Pork Vindaloo, 596 Spice Rub BBQ, 791 Herb, 982 Spicy Beef Soup (Yukkaejang), 351 Spicy Mango Chutney, 961 Spicy Mustard, 960 Spicy Peanut Sauce, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Spinach Eggs Florentine, 871 Omelet Florentine, 873 Pancakes, 707 Pasta, 819 Pizza, 1037 Quiche, 876 Salad, Baby, Avocado, and Grapefruit, 918 Salad, Wilted, with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 914-915 Souffle, 874 Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345 Yellow, 345 Sponge Cake Chocolate, 1083 Vanilla, 1083 Spring Roll Dipping Sauce, 957 Spring Rolls, 980 Squash Acorn, Baked, with CranberryOrange Compote, 689 Butternut, Puree, 691 Butternut, in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784 Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696 Spaghetti, 690, 691 Summer. See Yellow Squash; Zucchini Squid Baby, in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 in Pescado Frito, 9 7 2-973 Stir-Fried, with Thai Basil, 515

Standing Rib Roast au Jus, 464 Steak(s) Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445 Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Grilled Rib Eye, 446 Steamed Broccoli, 681 Steamed Dumplings (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Steamed Long-Grain Rice (Lo Han), 785 Stew(s). See also Goulash Beef, 589 Cassoulet, 594 Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Muntanya), 612-613 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Green Chile, New Mexican, 595 Irish, 608 Lamb and Chicken, Couscous with, 609 Lamb Navarin, 606 Veal Blanquette, 597 White Bean, Southwest, 775 Stewed Black Beans, 775 Sticky Buns, 1046 Sticky Rice, Thai, with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (Jap Chae), 822 Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai), 7 02-703 Stir-Fried Squid with Thai Basil, 515 Stock(s). See also Broth; Consomme; Soup(s) in Aspic, 995 Beef, White, 263 Chicken, 263 Chicken, Brown, 264 Court Bouillon, 265 Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267 Duck, Brown, 264 Estouffade, 264 Fish Fumet, 264 Game, Brown, 264 Lamb, Brown, 264 Pork, Brown, 264 Poultry and Meat (Brodo), 266 Shellfish, 264 Veal, Brown, 263 Veal, White, 263 Vegetable, 265 Vegetable, Roasted, 265 Strawberry Coulis, 1146 Straws, Chocolate, 1160 Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Cheese, 978 Stuffed Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Cabbage, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Chicken, Breast of, with Duxelles Stuffing and Sauce Supreme, 515 Chicken Legs with Duxelles Stuffing, 482 Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Leg of Lamb, Portuguese, 605 Lobster, Broiled, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 Mirlitons, Shrimp-, 696 Pork Chops, Baked, 465 Shrimp, 970 Stuffing Chestnut, 486

Duxelles, 482 Forcemeat, Herbed, 605 Forcemeat, Mushroom, 484 Rouladen, 585 Suan La Tang (Chinese Hot and Sour Soup), 350 Sugar, Cinnamon, 1043 Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto, 919 Summer Squash. See Yellow Squash; Zucchini Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 300 Sunonomo (Cucumber and Wakame Salad), 922 Supreme Sauce, 294 Sushi Rice, 785 Swedish-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872 Sweet Dough, 1045 Sweet Garlic Sauce, 524 Sweet Pickles, 472 Sweet Potato(es) Chips, 746, 747 Glazed, 738 Mashed, with Ginger, 7 3 8 -7 3 9 Salad, Curried, 749 Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad, 800 Swiss Meringue, 1024 Swiss-Style Veal, Emince of, 502, 503 Syrup, Simple, 1023 Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597

t

Taco Salad, 913 Taco Sauce, 914 Tagine, Chicken, 610-611 Tangerine-Flavored Chicken, Crispy, 5 24 -5 2 5 Tapenade, 959 Tarragon in Bearnaise Sauce, 297 Butter, 300 Sauce, Poached Chicken Breast with, 563 Tart(s). See also Pie(s); Quiche Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128 Key Lime, 1146-1147 Lemon Souffle, with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote, 1142-1145 Shells, Tartlet, 1144 Vegetable, Seasonal, 701 Tartar Sauce, 903 Tempeh Cashew Noodles, 824, 825 Reuben, 942 Tempura Dipping Sauce, 523 Shrimp, 523 Vegetable, 708 Teriyaki, Beef, 445 Teriyaki Marinade, 374 Terrine Chicken and Crayfish, 9 9 6 ,1 0 0 5 Country-Style (Pate de Campagne), 998 Duck, with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, 1002-1003 Duck and Smoked Ham, 1 0 0 4 1005 Foie Gras, 1001 Seafood and Salmon, 993 Vegetable, with Goat Cheese, 1010 Venison, 1002 Thai Basil, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515 Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk and Galangal, 353 Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung), 354

Sticky Rice with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Table Salad, 908 Thousand Island Dressing, 906 Three-Cheese Melt, 940 Tinga Poblano, 530 Tofu. See also Bean Curd Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup, 971 Tomatillos Salsa Verde Asada, 954 Salsa Verde Cruda, 954 Tomato(es) Coulis, 296 and Cracked Wheat Salad, 802, 803 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho), 349 Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and, 971 and Mozzarella Salad, 928 Omelet, 873 Oven-Roasted, 692 Pasta, 819 Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Pico de Gallo, 953 Potage Garbure, 346 Quiche, and Leek, 876 in Ratatouille, 708 Salsa Roja, 954 Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream, 944 Sauce, 295 Sauce, Provencal, 501 Soup, Cream of, 339 Soup, Cream of, with Rice, 339 Sun-Dried, and Oregano Butter, 300 in Tortilla Soup, 335 Vinaigrette, Fire-Roasted, 899 Tom Yum Kung (Thai Hot and Sour Soup), 354 Tortilla(s) Chips, 962 Flour, in Mushroom Quesadillas with Two Salsas, 700 Soup, 335 in Taco Salad, 913 Tortilla de Papas, 750 Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet), 979 Tostones, 708 Trout Amandine, 509 Brook, Pan-Fried, with Bacon, 522 a la Meuniere, Sauteed, 513 Mousseline, and Saffron, 555 Paupiettes, Poached, with Vin Blanc Sauce, 556 Poached, with Saffron Mousse, 5 5 4 -5 5 5 Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153 Truffle Vinaigrette, 900 Tuile Nut Cookies, 1090 Tuiles, 1144 Tuna and Bean Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli), 975 Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta), 964, 965 Salad, 924 Vitello Tonnato, 983 Turkey Broth, 334 in Club, CIA, 934, 935 in Cobb Salad, 913 Roast, with Pan Gravy and Chestnut Stuffing, 4 8 5 -4 8 6 Sandwich, Open-Faced, with Sweet and Sour Onions, 937 Tuscan-Style Potatoes, Roasted, 738

Tuscan White Bean and Escarole Soup, 355 Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean (Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce), 976

U Udon Noodle(s) Pot, 566 Tempeh Cashew, 825

V Vanilla Caramel Sauce, 1159 Ice Cream, 1102,1103 Ice Cream, for Profiteroles, 1156, 1157 Sauce, 1099 Sponge Cake, 1083 Vatapa, 512 Veal Blanquette, 597 Breast, Braised, with Mushroom Sausage, 598 Broth, 334 Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Cordon Bleu, 519 Cutlets, Pan-Fried, 518 Demi-Glace, 293 Emince of, Swiss-Style, 502, 503 Espagnole Sauce, 294 Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Fricassee, 612 Jus de Veau Lie, 293 Mushroom Sausage, 598 Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1 Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese), 519 Scaloppine Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4 Shoulder Poele, 464 Skewers, and Pork (Raznjici), 447 Stock, Brown, 263 Stock, White, 263 Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de Campagne), 998 Vitello Tonnato, 983 Wiener Schnitzel, 518 Vegetable(s). See also specific vegetables in Beef Stew, 589 and Cheese Omelet, 873 Chicken with (Poule au Pot), 565 Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Court Bouillon, 265 Grilled, Marinated, 686 Grilled, Proven£al-Style, 686 Grilled, Sandwich with Manchego Cheese, 940, 941 in Irish Stew, 608 Jambalaya, Grilled, 7 90-791 Jardiniere, 705 Julienne, 706 Julienne, Poached Sole with Vin Blanc Sauce and, 558 in Lamb Navarin, 606 Macedoine of, 706 Minestrone, 357 New England Shore Dinner, 5 6 0 -5 6 1 Potage Garbure, 346 in Pot Roast, Yankee, 586 Ratatouille, 708 Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana), 357 Stock, 265 Stock, Roasted, 265 Tarts, Seasonal, 701

RECIPE IN D E X

1201

Vegetable(s), continued Tempura, 708 Terrine, with Goat Cheese, 1010 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Veloute, 294 Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes, 770, 771 Vegetarian Chili, 778-779 Vegetarian Risotto, 784 Veloute Chicken, 294 Fish, 294 Shrimp, 294 Vegetable, 294 Venison Terrine, 1002 Vichyssoise, 347 Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, 956 Vietnamese Salad Rolls, 981 Vinaigrette Almond-Fig, 897 Apple Cider, 897 Bacon, Warm, Wilted Spinach Salad with, 914-915 Balsamic, 897 Chipotle-Sherry, 896 Curry, 898 Garlic, Roasted, and Mustard, 896 Gourmande, 901 Guava-Curry, 899 Lemon-Garlic, 896 Lemon-Parsley, 896 Mustard-Herb, 896 Pesto, 901 Red Wine, 896 Tomato, Fire-Roasted, 899 Truffle, 900 Truffle, and Herb, 900 Walnut Oil and Red Wine, 901 White Wine, 896

Vin Blanc Sauce Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and, 558 Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556 Vinegar Sauce, Sherry, 450 Vitello Tonnato, 983

W Waffles, Basic, 1073 Wakame and Cucumber Salad (Sunonomo), 922 Waldorf Salad, 918 Walnut Oil and Red Wine Vinaigrette, 901 Walnuts Endive Salad with Roquefort and (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Green Beans with, 685 Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and, 916, 917 in Waldorf Salad, 918 Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 929 Warm Cabbage Salad, 506 Warm Date Spice Cake with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Warm Goat Cheese Custard, 875 Wasabi, 960 Watercress and Apple Salad, Sherried, 917 Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise, 943 Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand Island Dressing, 909 Western Omelet, 873

Wheat Berry Pilaf, 780 in Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Salad with Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans, 798, 799 Whipped Cream for Garnish (Chantilly), 1023 Whipped Potatoes, 517, 735 White Bean(s) and Asparagus Lasagna, 829 Boiled, 777 and Escarole Soup, Tuscan, 355 Stew, Southwest, 775 White Onion Soup, 335 White Sauce, 1154 White Stock Beef, 263 Veal, 263 White Wine Fruit Sauce, Winter, 505 Sauce Robert, 508 Vinaigrette, 896 Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and, 558 Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556 Whole Wheat Pasta, 819 Wiener Schnitzel, 518 Wild Mushroom Risotto, 783 Wild Rice Cakes, 806 Pilaf, 780 Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 914-915 Winter Fruit Sauce, 505 Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer Soup, 340 Wonton Soup, 3 5 4 -3 5 5

y

Yankee Pot Roast, 586 Yeast Bread. See Bread(s), Yeast Yellow Curry Paste, 371 Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511 Yellow Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345 Yellow Squash Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Noodles, Summer Squash, 704 Salsa, Summer Squash, 699 and Snow Peas, Gingered, 684 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701 Yogurt Cucumber Salad, 923 Cucumber Sauce, 957 Lamb Khorma, 607 and Mint Chutney, 462 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 Yukkaejang (Spicy Beef Soup), 351

Z Zabaglione, 1129 Z’hug, 960 Zucchini Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Noodles, Summer Squash, 704 Pancakes with Tzatziki, 688 Pan-Fried, 707 Ratatouille, 708 Salsa, Summer Squash, 699 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701

subject index a

Abalone, 119 Acid, in marinades, 363 Acidity, food, 33 Acini de pepe, 214 Acorn squash, 153 Administrative duties, 5 Adzuki beans, 217,1161 Aerobic bacteria, 33 Agricultural production methods, 11,128 Aioli, 887 Albacore (tombo), 111 Albufera sauce, 278 Alcohol abuse, staff, 39 Al dente, 649, 815 Alkalinity, food, 33 Allemande sauce, 278 Allergies, food, 37 All-purpose flour, 202, 203 Allspice, 222, 223 Almonds, 219, 220 Aluminum pots and pans, 56 Amaranth, 210, 211 Amberjack, 113

1202

SUB JE C T IN D E X

Americaine sauce, 278 Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), 39 Amino acids, 24 Anaheim chiles, 164,165 Anardana, 223 Ancho chiles, 164 Anchovy, 116 Angel food cake, 1020,1021,1059, 1061 Angel hair pasta, 213-214 Anglerfish (monkfish), 114,115 Anise, 222, 223 Annatto, 223 Announcer (aboyeur), 9 Appetizers mousse, cold savory, 9 4 8 -9 5 2 presentation of, 947 quenelles, 992 types of, 9 4 6 -9 4 7 Apples discoloration of, 130, 890 in fruit salad, 890 varieties of, 130-131 Apricots, 143

Arborio rice, 205, 764,1162 Arctic char, 110, 111 Arkansas stones, 48 Aromatic vegetables. See also Mirepoix in Asian cuisine, 243 bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 in braises and stews, 572, 575, 679 in broths, 304, 313 in chowder, 320 in consomme, 306, 307 in marinades, 363 oignon brule/pique, 240 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 in pan sauce, 433 in pilaf, 761, 762 in risotto, 764, 765 in soups, 317, 321, 322, 327 in steaming liquid, 652 sweating, 242, 276, 762 Arrowroot, 29, 30, 247, 248,1016 Artichokes, 174,175, 643, 648 Artificial sweeteners, 229 Arugula (rocket), 156,157 Asiago cheese, 194,195 Asian pears, 140,141

Asparagus, 174,175, 642 Aspic, 987, 995 As-purchased cost (APC), 17 As-purchased quantity (APQ), 18 Aurore maigre sauce, 278 Aurore sauce, 278 Avocados, 144,145, 644

b

Back waiter (dem i-chefde rang), 10 Bacteria, 3 2 -3 3 , 3 4 ,1 2 8 Bain-marie, 5 7 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3 Baked goods and baking. See also Cakes; Cookies; Pies and tarts cooling/unmolding, 1059 fats in, 30 glazing, 1118 leaveners in, 1017 liquefiers in, 1016-1017 mise en place, 1015-1022 mixing methods blending, 1052 creaming, 1053-1055 foaming, 1058-1061

guidelines, 1055 pate a choux, 1062-1065 rubbed dough, 1048-1051 pan preparation, 1021 pastry bags and tips, 1022 scaling ingredients, 1018 sifting dry ingredients, 1018 stabilizers in, 1016 storing, 1059 sugar caramelization, 1018-1019 wines and cordials in, 235 yeast bread, 1026-1032 Baked vegetables en casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 potatoes, 722-724 procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 3 pureeing, 664 Bakeries, career opportunities in, 8 Baking. See Baked goods and baking Baking pans, 1021 Baking powder, 234,1017 Baking soda, 234,1017 Bamboo steamer, 59 Bananas, 144,145 Banquet service pasta, 818 plated desserts, 1133 Barbecue sauce applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0 regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1 Barbecuing, 430 Barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4 Barley, 210, 211, 752,1162 Barley flour, 210 Bartlett pears (William), 140,141 Basil, 180 Basket method of deep frying, 499, 674, 675, 676 Basmati rice, 204, 205, 752,1162 Bass, 107,108 Basting, 429, 432 Batonnet/julienne knife cut, 618, 622, 625 Batters blended, 1052 creamed, 1053-1055 for deep-fried foods, 497 foamed, 1058-1061 mixing guidelines, 1055 pasta, 8 0 8 - 8 0 9 pate a choux, 1062-1065 Bavaroise sauce, 287 Bay leaf, 180 Beans, dried. See also Legumes in broth, 314 in pureed soups, 321 salads, 895 soaking/cooking times, 1161 varieties of, 216-218,1161 Beans, fresh, 166,167 Bean thread noodles, 213, 214 Bearnaise sauce, 283, 287 Bechamel sauce, 274, 275, 279, 864 Beef. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 7 6 -7 7 cuts of, 7 2 -7 9 doneness of, 367 grades of, 72 kosher, 71 market forms of, 77 rib roast, carving, 437 stock, 256, 262 variety meats (offal), 77 Beefsteak tomatoes, 177 Beet greens, 158,159 Beets, 168,169,170 Belgian endive, 156,157, 621 Bell peppers. See Peppers, sweet Belly, pork, 88, 89 Bercy sauce, 278

Berries culinary uses of, 133 selecting, 132 varieties of, 132-133 Beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291 Beverages, 235 Bhutanese red rice, 204, 205 Bibb lettuce, 155 Bigarade sauce, 272 Biodynamic agriculture, 11 Biological contaminants, 32 Biotechnology, agricultural, 128 Bird chiles (Thai), 164,165 Biscotti, 1066 Biscuits, rubbed-dough method for, 1048-1051 Bisque, 3 2 5 -3 2 9 Black beans (turtle), 216, 217,1161 Black beauty grapes, 137 Blackberries, 132,133 Black corinth grapes (champagne), 136,137 Black-eyed peas, 218, 314,1161 Black grapes, 136,137 Black sea bass, 107,108 Blades, knife, 44 Blanching meat and poultry, 304 potatoes for deep frying, 732, 734 vegetables, 649 Blenders, 67, 68 Blending mixing method, 1052 Blind baking, 1124 Blood oranges, 134,135 Blood sausage, 77 Blueberries, 132,133 Blue cheese, 196-197 Bluefish, 113 Bohemienne sauce, 279 Boiling cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 eggs, 8 4 8 -8 4 9 pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7 potatoes, 715-717 vegetables, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 Bok choy, 148,149 baby, 149 Bolsters, knife, 45 Boneless meats, fabricating, 379 Boniato, 173 Boning knife, 4 6 ,4 7 Bonnefoy sauce, 278 Bordelaise sauce, 272 Bose pears, 140,141 Boston butt, pork, 86, 87, 89 Boston lettuce, 154,155 Botulism, 32 Boulanger, 9 Bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 Bourguignonne sauce, 272 Boursin cheese, 186,18 7 Brains, veal, 83 Braising meat, poultry, and fish, 549, 572-576 vegetables, 677 -6 7 9 Bran oat, 208, 209 wheat, 201, 203 Brassica (cabbage) family, 147-149 Brazil nuts, 220 Bread. See also Quick breads; Yeast dough panadas, 986 for sandwiches, 933 stuffing, 364 Bread crumbs, 365 Bread flour, 202, 203 Breading for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676 ingredients for, 3 6 5,4 9 3

for pan-fried food, 495 standard procedure, 365 Breast of lamb, 92, 93 Breast of veal, 81, 82, 84 Bretonne sauce, 272, 278 Brie cheese, 188,1 8 9 Brigade system dining room, 10 kitchen, 9 -1 0 Brisket, 75, 77, 78 Broccoli, 148,149 Broccolini, 149 Broccoli rabe (rapini), 148,149 Broiler chicken, 97 Broiler duckling, 97 Broiling meat, poultry, and fish, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 vegetables, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 Broiling equipment, 6 5 ,4 2 4 Brook trout, 111 Broths. See also Soups; Stocks basic formula, 303 consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 331 hearty, 311-314 ingredients for, 302, 303, 304, 311, 312, 314 preparation of, 3 0 3 -3 0 5 Browning, Maillard reaction in, 2 8 -2 9 Brown rice, 204, 205 Brown sauce, 2 6 8 -2 7 3 Brown stock, 254, 256, 260, 262 Brown sugar, 228, 229 Brunoise knife cut, 622, 623 Brussels sprouts, 147,149 Bucatini, 213, 214 Buckwheat, 211 Buckwheat groats (kasha), 210, 211, 1162 Buffalo chopper, 68 Buffet service, 818 Bulgur, 201, 203, 752,1162 Bulk fermentation, 1029 Bundt pan, 60, 63 Busboy, 10 Business duties and skills, 4 - 7 Butcher ( boucher), 9 Butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 Butter. See also Clarified butter beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 forms of, 184 in Hollandaise sauce, 283, 284 in roux, 246 whole, 232 Buttercream, 1108-1110 Butterfat, 182, 251 Buttermilk, 184-185 Butternut squash, 152,153

C Cabbage, 147,149 Cabbage (brassica) family, 147-149 Cabbage turnip (kohlrabi), 149 Caciotta cheese, 190,191 Cafes, career opportunities in, 8 Cajun cuisine, 243, 246 Cake flour, 203, 246 Cake pan, 60, 62 Cakes blending method, 1052 buttercream for, 1108-1110 cooling/unmolding, 1059 creaming method, 1053-1055 foaming method, 1058-1061 freezing, 1059 glazing, 1118 layer fillings and icings for, 1110 icing, 1111-1113 layering procedure, 1111 pan preparation, 1021

Calamari (squid), 122,123 Calaspara rice, 205 Calcium, 26 Camembert cheese, 188,189 Cameo apple, 130,131 Canary beans, 217 Cannellini beans, 217 Canning salt, 226 Canola oil (rapeseed), 232 Cantal cheese, 193 Cantaloupe, 138,139 Capellini, 214 Cape shark (dogfish), 115 Capon, 97 Captain (c h ef d ’e tage), 10 Carambola (starfruit), 146 Caramelizing sugar, 28, 29 dry method, 1018 wet method, 1019 Caraway, 222, 223 Carbohydrates, 24, 28 Carborundum stones, 48 Cardamom, 222, 223 Cardinal sauce, 279 Career opportunities, 7-10 Career planning, 7 Carnaroli rice, 204 Carnival squash, 152 Carolina rice, 1162 Carrots, 168,170, 242 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244 Carryover cooking, 3 6 6 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 6 , 576 Carving techniques, 4 3 5 -4 3 9 Casaba melon, 139 Casareccia, 214 En casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 Cashews, 219, 220 Cassava (yucca), 172,173 Cassava flour, 248 Cast-iron pans, 56, 57 Catering companies, career opportunities in, 8 Catfish, 116 Caul fat, 88 Cauliflower, 147,149 Cavaillon melon, 138 Cayenne, 223 Celery, 174,175 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244 Celery root, 169,170 Celery seed, 222, 223 Cepe mushrooms (porcini), 161 Cephalopods (shellfish), 122-123 Cereals and meals, simmering and boiling, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 Chafing dish, 62 Champagne grapes (black corinth), 136,137 Chanterelle mushrooms, 160,161 Charcuterie, 9 8 5 -9 9 2 Charcutiere sauce, 272 Chasseur sauce (Huntsman’s), 272, 291 Chateaubriand, 378 Chayote (mirliton), 150,151 Cheddar cheese, 192,193 Cheeks, veal, 82 Cheese production of, 185 varieties of, 186-197 Cheesecake, crumb crust for, 1051 Cheesecloth, 55, 254 Cheese curd, 186 Chef de cuisine, 9 Chefs. See also Culinary professionals; Staff in brigade system, 9 -1 0 business duties and skills, 4 - 7 executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9 uniform of, 38

SUB JECT IN D E X

1203

Chef’s knife (French knife), 47, 619, 621 Chef’s potatoes, 173 Chemical leaveners, 1017 Cherries, 143 Cherry sauce, 272 Cherry tomatoes, 177 Chervil, 178,180 Chestnuts, 220 peeling, 640 Chevre (goat cheese), 186,187 Chevreuil sauce, 272 Chicken. See also Poultry classes of, 96, 97 doneness of, 367 fabrication of, 393 Chickpeas (garbanzo beans), 216, 217,1161 Chiffonade/shredding knife cut, 618, 621 Chiffon cake, 1059,1061 Chiles cutting and seeding, 638 peeling, 639 toasting, 645 varieties of, 164-165 Chili powder, 225 Chinese cabbage Napa, 147,149 white (bok choy), 148,149 Chinese-five-spice, 225 Chinese long beans (yard long), 166, 167 Chipotle chiles, 164 Chives, 162,179,180, 621 Chivry sauce, 278 Chocolate in creamed batter, 1053 fondant, 1120 ganache, 1110,1114-1115 melting, 1117 production of, 234 storage of, 234 tempered, 1116,1117 truffles, 1116 Chocolate liquor, 234 Cholesterol, 24 Chopping vegetables and herbs, 618, 620 Chops Bone-in, cutting, 381 lamb, 90 pork, 85 veal, 81 Choron sauce, 283, 287 Chowder, 320 Chuck cuts beef, 75, 76, 78 lamb, 91, 92 veal, 84 Cilantro (fresh coriander), 179,180 Cinnamon, 222, 223 Cipollini onions, 162,163 Citrus fruits juicing, 890 selecting, 134 supremes, 891 varieties of, 134-135 zesting, 891 Clams, 117,118,120 doneness of, 367 opening, 419 Clarification ingredients, for consomme, 306, 307, 308 Clarified butter, 232 in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284 preparation of, 251-252 in roux, 246, 251 Cleaning and sanitizing copper pans, 56 for food safety, 37-38

1204

S U B J E C T IN D E X

grills/broilers, 4 2 6 ,4 2 7 knives, 44 pastry bags and tips, 1022 rolling pins, 53 uniforms, 38 Cleaning supplies, storage of, 35 Cleaver, 46, 47 Cloves, 222, 223 Coatings. See also Breading for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676 ingredients for, 3 6 2 ,4 2 9 for pan-fried vegetables, 672 Cockles, 120 Cocoa butter, 234 Cocoa powder, 234 Coconut, 144,145 Coconut oil, 232 Cod, 105,106 Coffee, 235 Colander, 55, 254 Cold-foods chef (garde manger), 9 Collard greens, 148,149 Combi oven, 65 Commis, 10 Communard, 10 Communications, career opportunities in, 8 Communication skills, 7 Complex carbohydrates, 24 Composed salads, 895 Concasse, tomato, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 Conch (scungilli), 119 Concord grapes, 136,137 Condensed milk, sweetened, 183 Condiments, 234 Conduction cooking, 27 Confectioners’ sugar (powdered), 228, 229 Confiseur, 9 Consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 330, 331 Consultants, 10 Contamination, food, 3 2 -33. See also Food safety Cross-contamination, 33, 34 Convection cooking, 27 Convection oven, 65 Convection steamer, 64 Converted rice, 204, 205,1162 Cooked foods, cooling and storing, 35 Cookies creaming method, 1053,1053-1055 drop, 1066,1068 glazing, 1118 piped, 1067 rolled and cut, 1066 stenciled, 1069 twice-baked, 1066 Cooking fats. See Fats and oils Cooking liquids for basting, 432 for boiling, 648, 649, 650, 715 for braising, 572, 575 cooling, 35 in pan sauce, 491 for pilaf, 760, 761 for poaching (deep), 544, 546 for poaching (shallow), 540, 542, 543 for poaching eggs, 852 for risotto, 764, 765, 766 for simmering grains, 753 for simmering legumes, 753 for steaming, 53 2 ,5 3 4 ,6 5 1 ,6 5 2 ,6 5 3 for steaming, pan, 654, 655, 656 for stewing, 579, 580 Cooking methods baking, 6 6 1 -6 6 3 , 722-724 barbecuing, 430 beef, 7 6 -7 7 boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 , 715-717, 7 56 -7 5 9

braising, 549, 572-5 7 6 , 6 7 7 -6 7 9 en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 custards, 1093-1095 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 , 6 7 4 -6 7 6 , 7 3 2 -7 3 4 dry-heat, 29 dumplings, 808 eggs, 8 4 8 -8 6 5 fish, 1 0 3 -1 0 4 ,1 0 6 ,1 0 8 -1 0 9 , 111-113,115-116 grains, 752-755 grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 , 6 5 8 -6 6 0 hot water bath, 1092,1093,1117 lamb, 92 legumes, 7 52-755 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 , 671-673, 8 5 4 -8 5 5 pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 poaching eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 pork, 8 7 -8 8 potatoes, 715-734 poultry, 97 roasting, 4 2 8 -4 3 4 , 6 6 1 -6 6 3 , 7 2 2 -7 2 4 and sauce pairing, 292 sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 , 6 6 5 -6 6 7 , 7 2 9-731 shellfish, 1 1 9 -1 2 1 ,1 2 3 ,1 2 5 -1 2 6 simmering, 544-5 4 7 , 752-755, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 smoking, 430 sous vide, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 steaming, 532-5 3 5 , 6 5 1 -6 5 3 , 717 stewing, 577-580, 6 7 7 -6 7 9 stir-frying, 4 8 8 -4 8 9 , 6 6 8 -6 7 0 veal, 8 2 -8 3 vegetables, 6 4 8 - 6 8 0 in world cuisines, 12 Cooking process heat transfer in, 2 7 -2 8 sugars and starches in, 2 8 -2 9 Cookware. See Pots and pans Cooling foods baked goods, 1059 for safe storage, 35 stock, 260 vegetables, 650 Copper pots and pans, 56, 58 Cordials, 235 Coriander dried, 222, 223 fresh (cilantro), 179,180 Corn, 166,167, 207 cutting from cob, 641 Cornish hens, 97 Cornmeal, 206, 207 Corn oil, 232 Cornstarch, 30, 206, 207, 247, 248, 268 ,1 0 1 6 Corn syrup, 228, 230 Cortland apples, 130,131 Cost As-purchased (APC), 17 butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 control, 5 edible portion, 19 Cottage cheese, 186,187 Cottonseed oil, 233 Count measure, 14 Country clubs, career opportunities in, 8 Country-style forcemeat, 986, 991, 992 Court bouillon, 254 Couscous, 212, 215,75 2 ,1 1 6 2

Cox orange pippin apples, 130,131 Crab, 117,124,126 doneness of, 367 soft-shell, cleaning, 417 Crabapples, 131 Cracked wheat, 203,1162 Cranberries, 132,133 Cranberry beans, 167, 216, 217 Cranberry tomatoes, 177 Crayfish (crawfish), 125,418 Cream. See also Whipped cream forms of, 182,183 freshness of, 182 in ganache, 1114-1115 healthy substitutions, 25 in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 in pan sauce, 491 Cream cheese, 187 Creamer onions (pearl), 162,163 Creamer potatoes, 171 Creaming mixing method, 1053-1055 Cream of rice, 204 Cream soups, 317-319, 330 Creams, stirred, 1093,1095 Creme caramel, 1092 Creme fraiche, 184 Cremini mushrooms, 160,161 Crenshaw melon, 139 Creole cuisine, 246 Crepe pan, 57 Crevettes sauce, aux, 278 Critical control points (CCPs), 15, 36 Crookneck squash, 151 Cross-contamination, 33, 34, 35, 70, 365 Crosshatch marks, 426, 660 Croutons, 889 Crumb crusts, 1051 Crumb toppings, 1123 Crustaceans (shellfish), 124-125 Cucumbers, 150,151 Culinary professionals. See also Chefs associations of, 1191 career opportunities for, 7-10 career planning for, 7 education and training of, 4 and food industry trends, 11-12 information sources for, 1189-1190 management duties of. See Management personal attributes of, 4 professional network of, 4 Cumin, 222, 223 Curing salt, 226 Currants, 132,133 Currant tomatoes, 177 Curry leaves, 180 Curry powder, 225 Custards baked, 1092 as pie filling, 1123,1124 stirred, 1093-1095 Cut-in dough method, 1048-1051 Cutlets, 80, 380 Cutting fruits, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 apples, 890 citrus, 8 9 0 -8 9 1 hedgehog cut, 892 mangos, 892 melons, 893 pineapples, 893 Cutting vegetables and herbs artichokes, 643 asparagus, 642 avocados, 644 batonnet/julienne cut, 618, 622, 625 chestnuts, 640 chiffonade/shredding, 618, 621 chopping, 618, 620, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 corn, 641

fermiere/paysanne cut, 618, 624 for deep-fried potatoes, 733 diagonal/bias cut, 627 diamond/lozenge cut, 618, 624, 626 dicing, 623, 625, 631-632 fanning cut, 630 fluting, 629 garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 gaufrette/waffle cut, 628 guidelines, 6 4 5 -6 4 6 julienne/batonnet cut, 618, 622, 625 leeks, 635 lettuce, 888 lozenge/diamond cut, 618, 624, 626 mincing, 618, 621, 6 3 1-632, 634 mushrooms, 640 oblique/roll cut, 627 onions, 631-632 paysanne/fermiere cut, 618, 624 peapods, 641 peeling, 619, 631 peppers and chiles, 6 3 8 -6 3 9 rondelle/round cut, 618, 624, 626 standard cuts, 618, 6 2 2 -6 2 4 tomatoes, 636 tourne/turned cut, 624, 630 waffle/gaufrette cut, 628 Cuttlefish, 123

d

Daikon, 169,170 Dairy products. See also Cheese; Cream; Milk storage of, 3 4 ,182 types of, 182-185 Dandelion greens, 158,159 Danish blue cheese, 197 D’Anjou pears, 140,141 Decorateur, 9 Deep-fat fryer, 64,497, 674, 676, 732 Deep frying breading and coating in, 497, 675, 676 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 potatoes, 732-734 vegetables, 6 7 4 -6 7 6 Degreasing soups and broths, 309, 330 Delicata squash (sweet potato), 152, 153 Delicious apples, 131 Demerara sugar, 229 Demi-glace, 268 Denatured protein, 29 Design specialists, 10 Dessert menu, 1132,1133 Desserts. See also Cakes; Cookies; Pies and tarts custards, 1092-1095 frozen, 184,1133 ice cream, 184,1095 mousse, 1096-1098 plated, 1131-1133 truffles, 1116 Diagonal/bias knife cut, 627 Diamond/lozenge knife cut, 618, 624, 626 Diamond-impregnated stones, 48, 50 Diane sauce, 272 Dicing vegetables and herbs, 623, 625, 6 31-632 Dill, 178,180, 224 Dining room brigade system, 10 Diplomate sauce, 278 Direct fermentation, 1027 Disability insurance, 6 Display refrigeration, 65 Dogfish (cape shark), 115 Dolphinfish (mahi mahi), 110,113

Doneness deep-fried foods, 499 grains and legumes, 753, 755 grilled foods, 427 meat, poultry and fish, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 pan-fried foods, 496 pasta and noodles, 815 poached foods, 547 potatoes, 717 roasted foods, 432 sauteed foods, 490 vegetables, 649 Double boiler, 57 Dough. See also Yeast dough laminated, 1056-1057 pasta, 8 0 8 -8 1 3 pate, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 phyllo, 1057 rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 Dover sole, 102,1 0 4 ,4 1 2 Drawn butter, 232 Dressings, 364 Drop cookies, 1066,10 6 8 Drug abuse, 39 Dry goods, 199-235 fats and oils, 232-23 3 grains, meals, and flours, 2 00-211 legumes, 216-218 miscellaneous, 234 -2 3 5 nuts and seeds, 219-221 pasta and noodles, 212-215 pepper, 227 purchasing system for, 200 salt, 2 2 6 -2 2 7 spices, 222 -2 2 5 sweeteners, 228-231 Dry milk, 183 Dry rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 , 430 Dry storage chocolate, 234 coffee and tea, 235 guidelines for, 200 nuts, 219 salt, 226 sanitary conditions in, 35 spices, 222 wines and cordials, 235 Duchesse potatoes, 721 Duck. See also Poultry carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 6 classes of, 95, 97 doneness of, 367 Dumplings quenelles, 992 types of, 808 Durum flour, 202, 203

G Eating styles, in cultural cuisines, 12 Eclairs, fondant glaze for, 1121 Ecossaise sauce, 279 Edamame (green soybeans), 166,167 Edible portion cost (EPC), 19 Edible portion quantity (EPQ), 18 Education and training for communications/media/ marketing/writing/food styling career, 8 of culinary professionals, 4 staff development, 6 for teaching career, 8 Eel, 116 Eggplant, 150,151 Eggs. See also Egg whites; Egg yolks allergies to, 37 in baking, 1016 in creamed batter, 1053,1054 in custard, 1092,109 4 in foamed batters, 1058-1061 and food safety, 35, 884

in forcemeats, 986 grades, sizes, forms, 198 hard- and soft-boiled, 8 4 8 -8 4 9 healthy substitutions, 25 in mousse, 1 0 9 6 -1 0 9 7 omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1 in pasta dough, 809 in pate a choux, 1 0 6 3-1064 poaching, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 Scotch egg, 279 scrambling, 8 5 6 -8 5 7 separating, 1020 souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5 as stabilizer, 1016 storage of, 3 4 ,1 8 2 structure and uses, 29 Egg substitutes, 198 Egg wash, 3 6 5 ,4 9 5 ,1 0 2 3 ,1 1 2 2 Egg whites, 29 in buttercream, 1109 in foamed batter, 1059 folding in, 949, 951 as forcemeat binder, 986 in meringue, 1020-1021 in mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6 ,1 0 9 7 in souffle, 862 whipping, 8 6 4 ,1 0 2 0 -1 0 2 1 ,1 0 9 6 , 1097 Egg yolks as emulsifier, 29, 30 in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284, 285, 286 in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 in mayonnaise, 884, 886 Elbows, 214 Emince, 380 Emmentaler cheese, 192,193 Emperor grapes, 137 Employees. See Staff Emulsifiers, 29, 30, 232, 8 80, 884 Emulsion forcemeats, 986 Emulsion sauces, 283, 284 Endive (Belgian), 156,157, 621 Endospores, 33 English peas (garden, green), 166,167 Enoki mushrooms, 161 Enriched yeast dough, 1026 Entrepreneurship, 9 Epazote, 222, 224 Epoisses cheese, 188 ,1 8 9 Equipment and tools, 4 3 -6 8 . See also Knives; Pots and pans for baking potatoes, 722 for boiling, 648, 715 cleaning and sanitizing, 37 for consommes, 306 for deep frying, 497, 674, 676, 732 for forcemeats, 987 for grilling, 6 5 ,4 2 4 ,4 2 6 , 658 grinding, 68, 392 hand tools, 5 2 -5 3 large, 6 4 - 6 8 maintenance of, 7 for mayonnaise, 884 measuring, 15, 54 molds, 59, 61 for mousse, 948 for pan frying, 493, 671 for pasta making, 809 pastry bags and tips, 1022 for peeling vegetables, 619 for poaching (deep)/simmering, 544 for poaching (shallow), 540 for pureeing, 55, 318, 324, 664, 718 rolling pins, 52, 53 safety precautions, 64 for salad making, 888 sieves and strainers, 55 for simmering grains and legumes, 753

for souffles, 862 for soups, 315, 318, 321, 325 for sous vide cooking, 550 for stocks, 254 for vinaigrette, 8 8 0 Escargot (snails), 119 Escarole, 156,157 Espagnole sauce, 268, 271 Essences (fumets), 254 fish, 255, 256, 259, 262 Evaporated milk, 183 Executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9 Executive dining rooms, 8 Expediter, 9 Explorateur cheese, 188,189 Extracts, 234

f

Facultative bacteria, 33 Fanning knife cut, 630 Farfalle, 212, 214 Farina, 201, 203 Farmer’s cheese, 186,187 Farro, 210 Fatback, pork, 88 Fat, dietary, 24 Fats and oils. See also Butter in baking blended batter, 1052 creamed batter, 1053-1055 foamed batter, 1060 laminated pastry dough, 1056-1057 rubbed-dough, 1 048-1049,1050 yeast dough, 1026 barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4 basting with, 432 for deep frying, 499, 732 flavored oils, 883 for frying eggs, 854, 855 function of, 30 in marinades, 363 milk fat content, 182,183 for pan frying, 493, 495, 671 parching rice in, 762, 766 for roasting vegetables, 662 in roux, 246 for sauteing, 665, 666, 670, 729, 730 smoke point of, 30, 232 types of, 2 3 2 -2 3 3 for vinaigrette, 880, 881 Fava beans, 166,167, 217,1161 Feet calves, 83 pig, 88, 89 Fennel, 174,175 Fennel seeds, 224 Fenugreek, 222, 224 Fermentation milk, 184 yeast dough, 1027,1029,1031 Fermiere/paysanne knife cut, 618, 624 Feta cheese, 186,187 Fettuccine, 213, 214 Fiddlehead ferns, 174,175 Figs, 145 Filberts (hazelnuts), 219, 220 File powder, 222, 224 Filleting fish, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 , 4 0 8 409, 412 Filleting knife, 47 Fillings buttercream, 1108-1110 ganache, 1114-1115 for layer cakes, 1110 for pies and tarts, 1122,1123,1124 sandwich, 9 3 2 -9 3 3 Financiere sauce, 272 Fingerling potatoes, 171,173 Fire safety, 38

SU B J E C T IN D E X

1205

Fish allergies to, 37 braising, 549, 572-576 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 doneness in, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 fabrication of, 4 0 2 -4 1 2 filleting, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 ,4 0 8 409, 412 goujonettes, 411 for grilling, 427 gutting, 4 0 3 ,4 0 7 scaling/trimming, 4 0 2 ,4 0 3 tranche, 411 freshness of, 100 frozen, 101 fumet, 255, 257, 259, 262 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 market forms of, 100 mise en place for, 361-367 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 pan grilling, 427 en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 steaks, 100, 410 steaming, 532-535 stewing, 577-580 stock, 254, 255, 259, 262 storage of, 3 4 ,100-101 stuffings for, 428 types of, 101-116 Fish chef (poissonier), 9 Fish poacher, 57, 5 8 -5 9 Flageolets, 216, 217 Flattop range, 64 Flavorings. See Aromatic vegetables; Herbs; Seasonings; Spices Flax seeds, 221 Flounder, 102,1 0 3 ,1 0 4 Flour in baking blending method, 1052 creaming method, 1053-1055 rubbed-dough method, 1 0 4 8 1051 barley, 210 coating, 497 oat, 209 panada, 986 in pasta dough, 808 rice, 204, 205 in roux, 2 4 6 -2 4 7 as stabilizer, 1016 as thickener, 248,1016 wheat, 201, 202, 203,1026 for yeast dough, 1026 Fluke, 102,104 Fluoride, 26 Fluting mushrooms, 629 Foaming mixing method, 1058-1061 Foams, gelatin in, 1016 Foie gras, 71, 95 Fondant, 1119-1121 Fontina cheese, 190,191 Food allergies, 37 Food and beverage costs, 5 Food and beverage managers, 10 Food-borne illness, 3 2 -37,128 Food chopper, 68 Food critics, 10 Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 35, 36 Food industry agricultural systems in, 11 global culinary exchange in, 12 and sustainability, 11-12 Food mill, 55

SUB J E C T IN DEX

Food processor, 66, 68 for forcemeats, 987 for mousse, 948 for pasta dough, 811 Food safety in breading and coating, 365 cleaning and sanitizing for, 37-3 8 contaminants, 32 -3 3 of cooked/ready-to-serve foods, 35 in cooling foods, 35 and cross-contamination, 33,70,3 6 5 in dry storage, 35 and eggs, 35, 884 in forcemeat preparation, 987, 9 8 8 Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7 and irradiation, 128 and milk pasteurization, 182 in poultry fabrication, 393 in refrigeration and freezing, 3 4 -3 5 in reheating, 3 5 -3 6 , 331 sanitary inspection for, 34 in service, 37 in sous vide cooking, 549 and staff hygiene, 38 of stuffings, 364 Food science basics of, 27 -3 0 of sous vide cooking, 548 Foodservice companies, 8 Food slicer, 68 Food storage. See also Dry storage; Frozen foods; Refrigeration baked goods, 1059 and cross-contamination, 33, 35, 70 dairy products, 3 4 ,182 eggs, 3 4 ,182 fish, 34 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1 food safety in, 3 4 -3 5 fruits and vegetables, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9 herbs, 129 meat, 34, 70 mushrooms, 160 sanitary conditions in, 3 4 -3 6 shellfish, 34,117 Food styling, 8 ,1 0 Food writers, 10 Forcemeats egg binder in, 29 and food safety, 987, 988 ingredients for, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 mousseline, 986, 989 preparing, 9 8 7 -9 9 2 in quenelles, 992 stuffings, 364 types of, 986 Forelle pears, 140,141 Fork, kitchen, 52, 53 Fowl (stewing hen), 97 Foyot sauce, 287 Freezing. See Food storage; Frozen food Fregola sarda (Italian couscous), 215 French green beans (haricots verts), 166,167 French knife (chef’s knife), 46,47, 619, 621 Fresno chiles, 164,165 Frisee, 156,157 Frittatas, 858 Fromage blanc, 187 Front waiter (ch ef de rang), 10 Frozen desserts, 184 ice cream, 184,1095 plating, 1133 Frozen foods baked goods, 1059 fish, 101 meat, 70, 71 temperature for, 34 thawing, 36

Fruits. See also Citrus fruits; specific fruits browning of, 130,140 culinary uses of, 129 cutting. See Cutting fruits dried, rehydrating, 645 filling for pies and tarts, 1122 heirloom, 11 as ice cream flavoring, 1095 locally grown, 11,128 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 organic, 11,128 pectin in, 1016 production methods, 11,128 salad, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 selecting, 128 stone fruits, 142-143 storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9 varieties of, 130-146 yield calculation, 18 Fry chef (friturier), 9 Fryers (chicken), 97 Frying. See also Deep frying; Pan frying eggs, 8 5 4 -8 5 5 Frying fats, 232, 854 Fry pan (sautoir), 57, 59 Fumets (essences), 254 fish, 255, 257, 259, 262 Fungi, 32 Fusilli, 212, 214

g

Gala apples, 130,131 Galangal, 172,173 Game birds, barding, 434 Game meat barding, 434 cuts of, 94 stock, 262 storage of, 70 Ganache in layer cakes, 1110 making, 1114-1115 in truffles, 1116 Garam masala, 225 Garbanzo beans (chickpeas), 216, 217 Garde manger forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 9 2 pate en croute, 9 9 1 ,1 0 0 7 ,1 0 0 9 quenelles, 992 Garden peas (English, green), 166,167 Garlic, 162,163 aiioli, 887 chopping/mincing, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 measuring, 14 roasting, 634 studding roast with, 434 Garnishes for appetizers, 947 for broths, 302, 303, 311, 312 for chowder, 320 for consomme, 307, 310 croutons, 889 fanning cut, 630 for forcemeats, 986, 991, 992 matignon, 243 mushrooms, fluted, 629 for pan sauces, 492 quenelles, 992 for sandwiches, 933 for soups, 316, 319, 322, 323, 326, 331 for yeast breads, 1032 Gaufrette/waffle knife cut, 628 Gelatin in aspic, 987, 995 in foams, 1016 in mousse, 948, 950, 951,1096 strength, ratios for, 952 working with, 950

Gelation, 29,1016 Gelato, 184 Genetically modified organisms (GMOs), 11,128 Genevoise sauce, 272 Ghee, 232, 251 Ginger, 172,173, 224, 242 Gla^age, 283, 284 Glace, 261 Demi-glace, 268 Glacier, 9 Glarner Schabziger cheese (Sap Sago), 195 Glazes and glazing baked goods, 1118 cookies, 1066 fondant, 1119-1121 ganache, 1110,1114-1115 meat and poultry, roasted, 429 vegetables, pan-steamed, 654, 657 vegetables, sauteed, 665, 666, 670 Globalization of cuisines, 12 Globe onion, 162,163 Gluten development, in yeast dough, 1028,1029 Glutinous rice, 205 Goat cheese, 186,18 7 ,1 9 4 Golden delicious apples, 130,131 Goose, 95, 97, 393 doneness of, 367 Gooseberries, 132,133 Gorgonzola cheese, 196,197 Gouda cheese, 192,193 Goujonette, 411 Government regulations meat inspection, 70 of milk production, 182 workplace, 39 Grains in broth, 314 cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 cooking time for, 1162 forms of, 2 0 0 -2 1 1 milled, 200 parching, 762, 766 pilaf, 7 6 0 -7 6 3 polenta, 759 risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7 salads, 895 simmering, 752-755 soaking, 752 in stuffings, 364 whole, 200 Grana Padano cheese, 194,195 Granny Smith apples, 130,131 Granulated sugar, 228, 229 Grapefruit, 134,135 Grapes, 136-137 Grapeseed oil, 233 Gratin dish, 61, 62 Gratin forcemeat, 986, 991 Gratin potatoes (en casserole), 728 Gratin sauce, 272 Gravy, pan, 4 3 3 -4 3 4 Great Northern beans, 216, 217,1161 Green beans, 166,167 Green cabbage, 149 Green leaf lettuce, 154,155 Green lentils, 216 Green onions (scallions), 162,163, 621 Green peas (English, garden), 166,167 Greens bitter salad, 156-157 chiffonade cut for, 621 cleaning and drying, 888 cooking, 158-159 Green salads, 8 8 8 -8 8 9 Grenadins, 378 Griddles, 57, 65 Grill chef (grillardin), 9 Grilled sandwiches, 933

Grilling crosshatch marks, 426, 660 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 pan grilling, 427 vegetables, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 Grilling equipment, 65, 424, 426, 658 Grinder, meat, 68, 392 Grinding forcemeat, 987, 988, 989 meat, 392 Grits, 206, 207 Groats, 209,1162 Ground meat doneness of, 367 grinding, 68 Grouper, 107,109 Gruyere cheese, 192,193 Guajillo chiles, 164 Guava, 145

h

Habanero chiles, 164,165 Haddock, 105,106 Hake, white, 105,106 Half-and-half, 182,183 Halibut, 102,104 Ham carving, 4 3 7 -4 3 9 cuts of, 85, 87, 89 doneness of, 367 Handles, knife, 45 Hand tools, 5 2 -5 3 Hand washing, 32, 33, 34 Haricots verts (French green beans), 166,167 Havarti cheese, 190,191 Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7 Hazelnuts (filberts), 219, 220 Head waiter (ch efd e salle), 10 Healthy substitutions, 25 Heart beef, 77 lamb, 92 pork, 88 veal, 83 Heat transfer in cooking process, 2 7 -2 8 of pots and pans, 58, 60 Heavy cream, 182,183 Hedgehog cut, 892 Heirloom beans, 218 Heirloom fruits and vegetables, 11 Heirloom rice, 205 Heirloom tomatoes, 176,177 Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms (maitake), 160,161 Herbs bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 in broths, 312, 314 chopping, 620 coatings, 362 in fruit salad, 890 mincing, 621 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 sachet d’epices, 240, 241 selecting, 129 storage of, 129 varieties of, 178-180 Hollandaise sauce, 2 8 3 -2 8 7 Home meal replacement food service, 8 Hominy, 206, 207,1162 Hominy grits, 1162 Homogenization, 182 Honey, 228, 230 Honeycrisp apples, 130,131 Honeydew melon, 138,139 Hors d’oeuvre, 946 Horseradish, 169, 224 Hotel pans, 62

Hotels, career opportunities in, 8 Hot water bath, 1092,1117 HRI (Hotel, Restaurant and Institution) cuts, 71 beef, 7 8 -7 9 lamb, 93 pork, 89 veal, 84 Hubbard squash, 152,153 Human resource management, 6 Huntsman’s sauce (chasseur), 272 Hydroponic crops, 128 Hygiene and cross contamination, 33, 34 and food-borne illness, 32 and kitchen safety, 38

i

Ice bath, 260 Iceberg lettuce, 154,155 Ice cream, 184,1095 Ice milk, 184 Icing buttercream, 1108-1110 cookies, 1066 ganache, 1114-1115 for layered cakes, 1110 procedure, 1112-1113 Idaho potatoes, 173 Immersion blender, 67, 68 Immigration and Naturalization Service (IN S), 6 Induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 - 6 5 Industrial agriculture, 11 Infection, in food-borne illness, 32 Information management, 5 Information sources, -1185-1191 Infrared radiation, 28 Ingredients. See also Dry goods; Seasonings baked goods, 1016-1017 breadings and coatings, 362, 365, 429, 493 for broths, 302, 303, 304, 311, 312, 314 for chowder, 320 for consomme, 306, 307, 308 dairy products, 182-185 in deep frying, 498 fish, 101-116 for forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 fruits, 130-146 fruit salads, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 global sharing and exchange, 12 in grilling and broiling, 425 healthy substitutions, 25 herbs, 178-180 for marinades, 363 for mayonnaise, 884, 885, 887 measuring. See Measuring ingredients meat, 7 2 -9 4 for mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6 nutrients in, 24, 25, 26 in pan frying, 494 in en papillote cooking, 537 for pasta dough, 8 0 8 -8 0 9 , 810 for pilafs, 760, 761, 763 in poaching (deep), 544, 545 in poaching (shallow), 540, 541 poultry, 9 5 -9 8 for risotto, 764, 765 in roasting, 429, 661, 662 for sandwiches, 932 -9 3 3 sauce pairing, 291, 292 in sauteing, 489 seasonings, 362 -3 6 3 shellfish, 118-126 for soups, 315, 316, 321, 322, 325, 326

in steaming, 533 in stewing, 578, 677, 678 for stocks, 254, 255, 2 5 6 -2 5 7 for stuffings, 364 thickeners, 234, 248 vegetables, 147-177 for vinaigrettes, 880, 881 for yeast bread, 1026-1027 Institutional catering, 8 Intestines beef, 77 lamb, 92 pork, 88 Intoxication, in food-borne illness, 32 Iodine, 26 Iodized salt, 226 Iron, 26 Irradiation, food, 128 Israeli couscous, 212, 215 Italian buttercream, 1108 Italian couscous (fregola sarda), 215 Italian meringue, 1021 Italian plums, 142,143 Italienne sauce, 272

j

Jack be little pumpkins, 152 Jaggery, 229, 231 Jalapeno chiles, 164,165 Japanese eggplant, 150,151 Japanese wheat noodles, 213 Jarlsberg cheese, 193 Jasmine rice, 204, 205, 752,1162 Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes), 172,173 Jicama, 172,173 Job’s tears, 211 Job training, 4 John Dory (St. Peter’s fish), 116 Jowl, pork, 88 Judgment, of culinary professionals, 4 Juicing citrus fruit, 890 Julienne/batonnet knife cut, 618, 622, 625 Juniper berries, 222, 224 Jus, 433 Jus lie, 268, 2 6 9 ,4 3 3

k

Kabocha squash, 152 Kale, 148,149 Kansas City barbecue, 431 Kasha, 210, 211,1162 Kentucky barbecue, 431 Kettles, 64, 254 Key limes, 135 Kidney beans, 216, 217,1161 Kidneys, 71 beef, 77 fabrication of, 390 lamb, 92 pork, 88 veal, 81, 83 Kirby cucumbers, 150,151 Kitchen brigade system in, 9 -1 0 research-and-development, 10 safety in, 38 Kitchen fork, 52 Kiwi, 144,145 Kneading pasta dough, 811 Knife cuts. See Cutting vegetables and herbs Knives cleaning and sanitizing, 44 palette knife, 52, 53 parts of, 4 4 -4 5 for peeling vegetables, 619 safe handling of, 44

sharpening and honing, 44, 4 8 -4 9 steeling, 5 0 -5 1 storing, 44 types of, 4 6 - 4 7 Kohlrabi (cabbage turnip), 149 Korean starch noodles, 213 Kosher meat, 71 Kosher salt, 226

1

Lamb. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 92 cuts of, 9 0 -9 3 doneness of, 367 grades of, 90 leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5 rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7 variety meats, 92 Lamb’s lettuce (mache), 156,157 Laminated dough, 1056-1057 Langoustines (prawns, scampi), 125 Lard, 232 Larding roasted meats, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4 Lasagne, 214 Layer cakes, 1110,1111-1113 Leaf lettuces, 154,155 Lean dough, 1026,1027 Leaveners, 234, 808,1016,1017 Lecithin, 29, 30, 884 Leeks, 162,163, 242 cleaning and cutting, 635 Leg cuts lamb, 90, 92, 93 veal, 82, 84 venison, 94 Legumes in broth, 314 salads, 895 simmering, 752-755 soaking, 752, 753 soaking/cooking times, 1161 varieties of, 2 16-218 Lemon curd, 1110 Lemongrass, 179,180 Lemons, 134,135 Lemon sole, 102,103 Lentils, 216, 217,1161 in broth, 314 in rice pilaf, 763 Lettuce, 154-155, 888 Liability insurance, 6 Liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 Light cream, 182,183 Lima beans, 167, 216, 217,1161 Limburger cheese, 189 Limes, 134,135 Linguine, 213, 214 Liqueurs, 235 Liquid measurement, 15,17 Liquids. See Cooking liquids Liquifiers, in baking, 1016-1017 Liver, 71 beef, 77 fabrication of, 390 lamb, 92 pork, 88 veal, 81, 83 Loaf pans, 61, 63 Lobster, 117,124,125 cooked, preparing, 4 14-415 doneness of, 367 live, preparing, 413 Lobster mushrooms, 160,161 Locally grown produce, 11,128 Loin cuts beef, 73, 76, 7 8 -7 9 lamb, 90, 92, 93 pork, 85, 87, 89 veal, 80, 82, 84 venison, 94

SUB JECT IN D E X

1207

Lotus root, 170 Lozenge/diamond knife cut, 618, 624, 626

m Macadamia nuts, 219 Mace, 224 Mache (lamb’s lettuce), 156,157 McIntosh apples, 130,131 Mackerel, 110,112 Macoun apples, 130,131 Magnesium, 26 Mahi mahi (dolphinfish), 110,113 Maillard reaction, 2 8 -2 9 ,5 4 9 Maitake mushrooms (hen-of-thewoods), 160,161 Maitre d’hotel, 10 Maize, 207 Malanga, 170 Maltaise sauce, 287 Management, 4 - 7 administrative duties, 5 of human resources, 6 of information, 5 of physical assets, 5 of time, 6 - 7 Manchego cheese, 192,193 Mandarin orange, 135 Mandoline, 66, 68, 727, 890 Mango, 144,145, 892 Manioc (yucca), 172,173 Manzana chiles, 164,165 Maple sugar, 228, 229 Maple syrup, 230 Marinades basting with, 432 dry, 362 for grilled meats, 425 for grilled vegetables, 658, 660 ingredients, 363 for roasted/baked vegetables, 661, 662 Marjoram, 179,180 Marketing, career opportunities in, 8 Marmite, 57 Marrow, 72, 390 Masa harina, 206, 207 Mascarpone cheese, 186,187 Matelote sauce, 273 Matignon, 243 Matsutake mushrooms, 160,161 Mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889 healthy substitutions, 25 Measuring ingredients conversions, 16-17,1163-1165 converting recipe yields, 16 equipment and tools, 15, 54 equivalents, 1166 scaling, 1018,1030 systems of, 14-15 Meat. See also Forcemeats; Variety meats (offal) braising, 549, 572-576 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 cuts of, 71 beef, 7 2 -7 9 game, 94 lamb and mutton, 9 0 -9 3 pork, 8 5 - 8 9 veal, 8 0 - 8 4 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 fabrication. See Meat fabrication grades of, 70-71 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 inspection of, 70 kosher, 71 marinating, 363 market forms of, 71, 77, 82, 88

1208

S U B J E C T IN D E X

mise en place for, 361-367 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 pan grilling, 427 en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 roasting. See Roasted meat and poultry sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 steaming, 532-535 stewing, 577-580 stock, 254, 255, 256, 261, 262 storage of, 34, 70 stuffings for, 428 usable trim, 20 Meat fabrication, 376 -3 9 2 boneless meats, 379 for braising, 574 chops, bone-in, cutting, 381 cutlets, cutting/pounding, 380 for deep frying, 497 emince, 380 for grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 ,4 2 7 grinding, 392, 987, 989 lamb, leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5 lamb, rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7 medallions, 378 for pan frying, 493 pork loin, trimming/boning, 383 roast, tying, 3 8 8 -3 8 9 steaks, boneless, 382 for stewing, 577 tenderloin, trimming, 377 variety meats, 390 -3 9 1 Meat grinder, 68, 392, 987 Meat slicer, 68 Mechanical leaveners, 1017 Medallions, shaping, 378 Media, career opportunities in, 8 Melon bailer, 53 Melons cutting, 893 varieties of, 138-139 Memphis barbecue, 431 Menus dessert, 1132,1133 of food service companies, 8 functions of, 14 hazardous analysis of, 36 nutritional considerations in, 25 Meringue common, 1020 egg whites, whipping, 1020,1096, 1097 Italian, 1021 in mousse, 1096 as pie topping, 1123 Swiss, 1020-1021 Metal pans, 56, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 6 0 -6 1 Metric measurement, converting to U.S. system, 17 Meyer lemon, 134,135 Microorganisms, 32 Microwave oven, 28, 65 melting chocolate, 1117 reheating vegetables, 680 Milk allergies to, 37 in baking, 1016 in custard, 1092,1094 fermented/cultured products, 184-185 forms of, 182,183 freshness of, 182 pasteurized/homogenized, 182 in pureed potatoes, 719 in white sauce, 275 Milk fat (butterfat), 182 Milled grains, 200 Millet, 210, 211,1162

Mincing vegetables and herbs, 621 garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 onions, 6 3 1 -6 3 2 Minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26 Mint, 179,180 Mirepoix in bisques, 327 in broths, 306 preparation of, 2 4 2 -2 4 5 in sauces, 268, 269, 270, 271 in stocks, 254, 255, 259 Mirliton (chayote), 150,151 Mise en place for baked goods, 1015-1022 for dessert station, 1133 for grilling, 426 for meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish, 3 6 1-367 for sandwiches, 933 for stocks, sauces, and soups, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 for vegetables and herbs, 6 1 8 -6 4 6 Mixer, standing, 67, 68 Mixing equipment, 6 6 -6 7 , 68 Mixing methods, baking. See Baked goods and baking, mixing methods Molasses, 228, 230 Molds for custard, 1092 for forcemeats, 991 for mousse, 948, 950 for stenciled cookies, 1069 types of, 60, 61, 62 Mollusks (shellfish), 117,118-121 Monkfish (anglerfish), 114,115 Monterey Jack cheese, 190,191,194, 195 Morbier cheese, 190,191 Morel mushrooms, 160,161 Mornay sauce, 279 Mousse dessert, 1096-1097 savory, cold, 9 4 8 -9 5 2 Mousseline forcemeat, 986, 989, 991, 992 Mousseline sauce, 283, 287 Mozzarella cheese, 187 MSG (monosodium glutamate), 226 Mud dab, 103 Mudfish (tilapia), 116 Muenster cheese, 190,191 Muffins, creaming method for, 1053-1055 Muffin tins, 60, 63 Mung beans, 217,1161 Mushrooms cleaning and cutting, 640 fluting, 629 in mirepoix, 242 sauce, 273 storage of, 160 varieties of, 160-161 Muskmelons, 139 Mussels, 117,118,120 cleaning, 419 doneness of, 367 Mustard, in mayonnaise, 884 Mustard greens, 158,159 Mustard seeds, 222, 224 Mutton, 90

n

Napa cabbage, 147,149 Navel oranges, 134,135 Navy beans, 217,1161 Nectarines, 142,143 Noisettes, 90 shaping, 378 Nonstick coatings, 56, 58

Noodles cooking procedures, 8 1 4 -8 1 7 doneness in, 815 dried varieties, 212-215 fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3 Normande sauce, 278 North American Meat Processors Association (NAMP), 70 North Carolina barbecue, 431 Northern spy apple, 130,131 Nut allergies, 37 Nutmeg, 222, 224 Nutrition basics of, 2 4 -2 5 defined, 23 menu development for, 25 vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26 Nuts and seeds, 219-221

O Oak leaf lettuce, 155 Oat bran, 208, 209 Oat groats, 209,1162 Oatmeal, 209 Oats, 2 0 8 -2 0 9 Oblique/roll knife cut, 627 Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), 39 Octopus, 122,123 cleaning, 422 Offal. See Variety meats Offset spatula, 52, 53 Oignon brule (burnt onion), 240 Oignon pique (pricked/studded onion), 240 Oils. See Fats and oils Oil sprays, 233 Olive oil, 233 Omelet pan, 57, 858, 860 Omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1 Onion family, 162-163 Onions as aromatic, 240 dicing/mincing, 6 3 1 -6 3 2 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244 peeling, 631 soup, 312 varieties of, 162-163 Open-burner range, 64 Oranges, 134,135 Orecchiette, 212, 215 Oregano, 178,180 Organic agriculture, 11,128 Organ meats. See Variety meats (offal) Orzo, 212, 215 Ovens combi, 65 convection, 27, 65 conventional/deck, 65 microwave, 28, 65 pots and pans for, 6 0 -6 1 Oven temperature, roasting, 428 Oxtails, 75, 77 Oyster mushrooms, 160,161 Oyster plant (salsify), 169,170 Oysters, 117,118,121 doneness of, 367 opening, 418 Oyster sauce, 279

P

Pak choy (baby bok choy), 149 Palm sugar, 229, 231 Paloise sauce, 287 Panadas, bread, 986 Pan frying meat, poultry, and fish, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 vegetables, 671-673 Pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4

Pan grilling, 427 Pan preparation in baking, 1021 in bread making, 1027 for creamed batters, 1053 Pans. See Pots and pans Pan sauce, 2 6 8 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657 Pan-steaming vegetables, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Pantry chef, 9 Papaya, 144,146 En papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Paprika, 225 Parasites, 32 Parboiling vegetables, 649 Parching grains, 762, 766 Parchment paper, 536, 542 Paring knife, 46, 47, 619 Parisienne sauce, 278 Parisienne scoop (melon bailer), 53 Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, 194,195 Parsley, 179,180 Parsnips, 170, 242 Partial coagulation, 1016 Passion fruit, 146 Pasta as appetizer, 947 in broth, 314 cooking procedures, 814 -8 1 7 cooking time for, 1164 cooling/reheating, 818 doneness of, 815 dried, 212-215 fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3 salads, 895 sauce pairing, 817 service styles for, 818 Pasteurization, 182 Pastries, glazing, 1118,1121 Pastry bags and tips, 1022 Pastry chef (patissier), 9 Pastry dough laminated, 1056-1057 phyllo, 1057 for pies and tarts, 1048-1051, 1122-1123 Pastry flour, 203 Pate dough, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 en croute, 991,1007,1009 en croute, mold for, 61, 62 forcemeats for. See Forcemeats Pate a choux, 1062-1065 Pathogens, food, 3 2 -3 4 ,1 2 8 Pattypan squash, 150,151 Paupiettes, 411 Paysanne/fermiere knife cut, 618, 624 Pea(s), dried, 216, 218,1161 Pea(s), fresh, 166,167, 641 Peaches, 142,143 Peanut allergy, 37 Peanut oil, 233 Peanuts, 219, 220 Pearl barley, 210, 211, 752,1162 Pearl onions (creamer), 162,163 Pearl rice, 205 Pears, 140-141 Pear tomatoes, 177 Pecans, 219, 220 Pecorino cheese, 185,192,193 Pecorino Romano cheese, 185,194, 195 Pectin, 1016 Peeler, 52, 53, 619 Peeling apples, 890 asparagus, 642 avocados, 644 chestnuts, 640 citrus fruits, 891 garlic, 633 mangos, 892

melons, 893 onions, 631 peppers and chiles, 639 pineapples, 893 potatoes, 715 tomatoes, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 tools for, 619 Penne, 212, 215 Pepitas (pumpkin seeds), 219, 221 Pepper and peppercorns, 226, 227 Peppers, chile. See Chiles Peppers, sweet (bell), 164,165 cutting and seeding, 638 in mirepoix, 242, 243 peeling, 639 Periwinkle, 119 Permit fish, 112 Persian limes, 134,135 Persian melons, 139 Persimmons, 146 Personal attributes, of culinary professionals, 4 Petrale, 102,103 pH, 33 Pheasant, 98 Phosphorus, 26 Photography, career opportunities in, 10 Phyllo dough, 1057 Physical assets, management of, 5 Pickling salt, 226 Picnic cut, pork, 86, 87, 89 Pie pans, 63 Pies and tarts baking, 1124 blind baking shell, 1124 crumb crusts for, 1051 crust, making, 1122-1123 custard fillings for, 1123,1124 fruit fillings for, 1122,1124 rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 toppings for, 1122,1123 Pigeon, 98 Pigeon peas, 216, 218,1161 Pignoli (pine nuts), 219, 220 Pike, walleyed, 107,108 Pilaf, 760 -7 6 3 Piloncillo, 229, 231 Pin^age technique, 242, 245 Pineapple, 144,145, 893 Pine nuts (pignoli), 219, 220 Pink beans, 1161 Pinto beans, 218,1161 Piped cookies, 1067 Pistachios, 219, 220 Plaice (rough dab), 103 Plantain, 144,145 Plate, beef, 77, 78 Plated desserts, 1131-1133 Plating. See Presentation Plums, 142,143 Plum tomatoes, 177 Poaching deep, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 quenelles, 992 shallow, 5 4 0 -5 4 3 Poblano chiles, 164,165 Poivrade sauce, 273 Polenta, 759,1162 Pollock, 105,106 Pomegranate, 146 Pompano, 110,112 Pont L’Eveque cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9 Popcorn rice, 204 Poppy seeds, 219, 221 Porcini mushrooms (cepes), 161 Pork. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 8 7 -8 8 cuts of, 8 5 -8 9 doneness of, 367

grades of, 85 loin, trimming and boning, 377, 383 market forms of, 88 prepared products, 86 salt, in puree soups, 321, 322, 323 salt, rendering, 323 variety meats, 88 Portable refrigeration, 65 Portion size of appetizers, 9 4 6 -9 4 7 converting, 16-17 edible portion quantity, 18 optimum, 25 in standardized recipes, 15 Portobello mushrooms, 160,161 Port-Salut cheese, 191 Potassium, 26 Potatoes baking, 7 2 2 -7 2 4 boiling, 715-717 en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 deep frying, 7 3 2-734 Duchesse, 721 peeling, 715 pureeing, 718-721 roasting, 7 2 2 -7 2 4 salads, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 sauteing, 729-731 starch/moisture content of, 714 steaming, 717 stuffed baked, 722 varieties of, 171,173, 714 waffle/gaufrette cut, 628 Potato starch, 247, 248 Pots and pans baking pans, 1021 for boiling, 648, 715 for braising, 572 cast-iron, 56, 57 copper, 56, 58 for egg cooking, 850, 854, 856 for induction cooking, 28 materials for, 5 6 -5 7 , 59, 60 omelet, 57, 858, 860 for oven cooking, 6 0 -6 1 for pan frying, 493, 671 for pan grilling, 427 for poaching (deep)/simmering, 544 for poaching (shallow), 540 for roasting, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661 for sauteing, 4 88, 665 seasoning, 57 for soup, 315 for steaming, 532 for stewing, 677 for stock, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 254 for stovetop cooking, 57, 5 8 -5 9 Poultry braising, 549, 5 72-576 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2 classes of, 9 5 -9 8 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 fabrication of, 3 9 3 -3 9 9 halving/quartering, 3 9 8 -3 9 9 supremes, 3 9 4 -3 9 5 trussing, 3 9 6 -3 9 7 grades of, 95 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 kosher, 71 mise en place for, 3 6 1-367 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 pan grilling, 427 en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 roasting. See Roasted meat and poultry sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2

simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 steaming, 5 32-535 stewing, 5 77-580 stock, 255, 262 storage of, 34, 70 stuffing for, 364, 428 Poussin, 97 Powdered milk, 183 Powdered sugar (confectioners’), 228, 229 Prawns (langoustine, scampi), 125 Presentation. See also Service of appetizers, 947 of frozen desserts, 1133 of hors d’oeuvres, 946 of mousse, cold savory, 948 of pasta, 818 of sandwiches, 933 of sauces, 292 of soups, 331 Pressure steamer, 64, 532 Primal cuts, 71 beef, 7 6 -7 7 lamb, 92 pork, 8 7 -8 8 veal, 8 2 -8 3 Private clubs, career opportunities in, 8 Professional network, 4 Progressive grinding, 988 Prosciutto, 85 Protein and bacterial growth, 33 denatured, 29 food sources of, 24 Provolone cheese, 192,193 Puddings, stirred, 1093-1095 Pullman loaf pan, 61, 63 Pumpkin, 152,153 Pumpkin seeds (pepitas), 219, 221 Purchasing system, 5 Pureeing cream soups, 318 equipment, 55, 66, 67, 68, 318, 324, 664, 718 mousse, 951 potatoes, 718-721 soups, 321-324 vegetables, 316, 664 Purple potatoes, 171,173

q

Quail, 98 Quatre epices, 225 Quenelles, 992 Queso fresco, 186,187 Quick breads cooling/unmolding, 1059 creamed batters, 1053-1055 foamed batters, 1058-1061 freezing, 1059 rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 Quince, 146 Quinoa, 210, 211

r

Rabbit, 94 disjointing, 4 0 0 -4 0 1 Rack of lamb, 91, 92, 93 of veal, 81, 82, 84 of venison, 94 Radiation, 2 7 -2 8 Radiatore, 215 Radicchio, 156,157 Radishes, 168,170 Rainbow trout, 110, 111 Ramekins, 61, 62 Ramps (wild leeks), 163

SU B J E C T IN D E X

1209

Ranges induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 -6 5 pots and pans for, 57, 5 8 -5 9 types of, 6 4 -6 5 Rapeseed oil (canola), 232 Rapini (broccoli rabe), 148,149 Raspberries, 132,133 Reach in refrigeration, 65 Reblochon cheese, 188,189 Recipe conversion factor (RCF), 16 Recipes calculations, 1 6 -2 0 effective use of, 20 evaluation/modification of, 14 hazard analysis of, 36 healthy substitutions, 25 standardized, 15 Red cabbage, 147,149 Red delicious apples, 131 Red emperor grapes, 136,137 Red flame grapes, 137 Red globe grapes, 137 Red globe onion, 162,163 Red kuri squash, 152 Red leaf lettuce, 154,155 Red lentils, 216 Red potatoes, 171,173 Red snapper, 108 Reduced-fat milk, 183 Reduction sauce, 268 Refrigeration of dairy products, 182 equipment, 65 of fish and shellfish, 100-101 food safety in, 3 4 -3 5 of forcemeats, 986 of fruits and vegetables, 129 of herbs, 129 of meat, poultry, and game, 70 of mousse, 952 of mushrooms, 160 of pasta dough, 809 of soups, 330 temperature for, 34 of yeast, 1017 Regence sauce, 273 Reheating eggs, poached, 850 food safety in, 3 5 -3 6 pasta, 818 soups, 331 vegetables, 680 Reliance grapes, 137 Remouillage, 261 Research-and-development, career opportunities in, 9 ,1 0 Resorts, career opportunities in, 8 Responsibility, sense of, 4 Restaurants. See also Menus brigade system, 9 -1 0 career opportunities in, 8 dessert station in, 1133 management of, 5 - 7 menus, 14, 25, 36 sustainable, 12 Resting period, for roasted meat and poultry, 29,4 3 2 Resting yeast dough, 1029 Retarding yeast dough, 1029 Rex sole, 103 Rhizomes, 171-173 Rhubarb, 144,145 Rib cuts beef, 74, 76, 78 pork, 85, 86, 88 Rib roast, carving, 437 Rice. See also Grains cooking times for, 1162 pilaf, 760, 763 risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7

1210

SUB J E C T INDEX

soaking, 752 varieties of, 2 0 4 -2 0 5 , 764 wild, 204, 205,1162 Rice beans, 218 Rice flour, 204, 205, 247, 248 Rice milk, 184 Rice noodles, 213, 214 Ricer, 55 Rice vermicelli, 213 Ricotta cheese, 186,187 Ricotta salata cheese, 192,193 Rigatoni, 215 Ring-top range, 64 Risotto, 764 -7 6 7 Rivets, knife, 45 Roast chef (rotisseur), 9 Roasted meat and poultry, 4 2 8 -4 3 9 barding/larding, 429, 434 basting, 4 2 9 ,4 3 2 carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 9 doneness, 432 oven temperature, 428 pan gravy with, 4 3 3 -4 3 4 resting, 29, 432 smoke-roasting, 428, 4 3 0 -4 3 1 vs sous vide cooking, 549 tying roasts, 3 8 8 -3 8 9 Roasted vegetables garlic, 634 peppers and chiles, 639 potatoes, 722-724 procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 2 Roaster chickens, 97 Roasting pans, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661 Robert sauce, 273 Rock Cornish hens, 97 Rocket (arugula), 156,157 Rock salt, 226 Rock sole, 103 Roll/oblique knife cut, 627 Rolled oats (old-fashioned), 208, 209 Rolling pins, 52, 53 Romaine lettuce, 154,155 Romano beans, 166,167 Roma tomatoes, 177 Rome beauty apples, 131 Rondeau, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 677 Rondelle/round knife cut, 618, 624, 626 Root vegetables, 168-170 boiling, 649, 650 Roquefort cheese, 196,197 Rosemary, 178,180 Rotisserie cooking, 428 Rough dab (plaice), 103 Round/rondelle knife cut, 618, 624, 626 Round cuts beef, 72, 76, 78 lamb, 92 pork, 87 veal, 80 Roundsman (toumant), 9 Roux blond/white, 274, 275 brown, 268 clarified butter in, 246, 251 in pan gravy, 433 preparation of, 2 4 6 -2 4 7 singer method, 276, 320 Royal sauce, 287 Rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 Rubs, spice, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0 Ruby red grapes, 137 Russet potatoes, 171,173 Rutabaga, 169,170 Rye, 211

S Sachet d’epices, 240, 241, 254, 259 Safety, 6. See also Food safety government regulations for, 39 kitchen, 38 in knife handling, 44 with large equipment, 64 and substance abuse, 39 Safflower oil, 233 Saffron, 225 Sage, 178,180 St. Peter’s fish (John Dory), 116 Salad as appetizer, 947 composed, 895 croutons in, 889 dressing procedure, 889 fruit, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 green, 8 8 8 - 8 8 9 legume, 895 pasta and grain, 895 potato, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 vegetable, 894 warm, 894 Salad dressing mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889 oils and vinegars, flavored, 883 for potato salad, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 - 8 8 2 , 8 8 9 Salad greens bitter, 156-157 lettuce, 154-155, 888 washing and drying, 888 Salad oil, 233 Salamander, 65 Sales, career opportunities in, 8 ,1 0 Salmon Atlantic, 110, 111 coho/silver, 111 Pacific (king), 110, 111 sockeye/red, 111 Salmonellosis, 32 Salsify (oyster plant), 169,170 Salt in bread making, 1027 types of, 2 2 6 -2 2 7 Salt substitutes, 226 Sandwiches, 9 3 2 -9 3 3 Sanitation certification, 39 Sanitizing. See Cleaning and sanitizing Santa Claus melon, 138 Sap Sago cheese, 195 Sardines, 116 Sauce a l’Anglaise, 279 Saucepan, 57, 58 Sauce pot, 57, 58 Sauces, 2 6 8 -2 9 2 barbecue, applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0 barbecue, regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1 bechamel, 274, 275, 279, 864 beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291 for braises, 572, 573, 576 brown, 2 6 8 -2 7 3 with deep-poached/simmered foods, 544 flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 food pairing, 291, 292 hollandaise, 2 8 3 -2 8 7 jus lie, 268, 269, 433 mise en place for, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 pan, 4 3 3 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657 pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4 pasta pairing, 817 plating of, 292 purposes of, 291 with souffles, 862 for stews, 580, 678 stir-fry, 488 thickeners for, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 268, 271 tomato, 2 8 0 -2 8 2

vanilla, 1095 vin blanc, 278 white, 2 7 4-279 Sausage, 86 Saute chef (saucier), 9 Sauteing glaze, for vegetables, 665, 666, 670 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 potatoes, 729-731 reheating vegetables, 680 vegetables, 6 6 5 -6 6 7 Saute pan (sauteuse), 57, 58, 59, 488, 665 Sautoir (fry pan), 57, 59 Savory, 180 Savoy cabbage, 147,149 Scales, 15, 54 Scaling, 1018,1030 Scallions (green onions), 162,163, 621 Scallops, 117,118,121, 367 Scampi (langoustines, prawns), 125 Scimitar, 46 Scones, rubbed-dough method for, 1048-1051 Scoring yeast dough, 1032 Scotch egg, 279 Scrambled eggs, 8 5 6 -8 5 7 Scungilli (conch), 119 Sea bass, black, 107,108 Seafood. See Fish; Shellfish; Squid; Octopus Searing braised foods, 574 roasted foods, 428, 429, 432 stewed foods, 577 Sea salt, 226 Seasoned salt, 227 Seasoning pans, 57 Seasonings. See also Aromatic vegetables; Herbs; Spices for appetizers, 947 for broths, 304, 312, 314 for consomme, 306, 307 for deep-fried vegetables, 676 for grilled/broiled foods, 425 for sauteed foods, 490 for steamed vegetables, 652, 653 for stews, 577, 677 for stocks, sauces, and soups, 2 4 0 -2 5 4 , 255, 269, 275, 316, 317, 322, 330 types of, 3 6 2 -3 6 3 Sea urchins (uni), 118,119 Seckel pears, 140,141 Seeds toasting, 362 varieties of, 2 2 0 -2 2 1 Semolina flour, 202, 203 Serrano chiles, 164,165 Service. See also Presentation answering guest’s questions, 15, 37 brigade system, 10 commitment to, 4 food safety in, 37 and food/sauce pairing, 292 styles of, 818 Service information, 15 Sesame oil, 233 Sesame seeds, 219, 221 Seville orange, 135 Shad, 113 Shallots, 162,163, 242 Shanks beef, 72, 76 ham, 87 lamb, 91, 92 veal, 80, 82, 84 Shark, 115 Sharpening stones, 4 8 - 4 9 Sheet pan, 62

Shellfish allergies to, 37 bisque, 325, 3 2 6 -3 2 9 broth, 303, 304 chowder, 320 doneness in. See Doneness in meat, poultry, and fish fabrication of, 413 -4 1 9 and food-borne illness, 32 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 market forms of, 117 mise en place for, 361-367 en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 quality indicators for, 117 sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 steaming, 532-535 storage of, 3 4 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1 ,1 1 7 types of, 118-126 Shells, 215 Sherbet, 184 Shiitake mushrooms, 160,161, 640 Shortening, 232 Shoulder cuts beef, 75, 76, 78 lamb, 91, 92, 93 pork, 87, 89 veal, 82 venison, 94 Shredding/chiffonade knife cut, 618, 621 Shrimp, 124,125,126 cleaning/deveining, 416 doneness of, 367 Sieves, 55, 254 Sifting dry ingredients, 1018 Silicone mold, flexible, 61, 62 Silk snapper, 107,108 Simmering broths, 304, 313 cereals and meals, 756 -7 5 9 consomme, 309 grains and legumes, 752-755 meat, poultry, and fish, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 sauces, 270 soups, 317, 318, 323 stock, 258 Simple syrup, 1019 Singer method of soup making, 276, 320 Skate, 114,115 Skewers, 426 Skim milk, 183 Skimming stocks and soups, 258, 305, 317, 323 Slicer knife, 46, 47 Slicing equipment, 66, 68 Slurry, starch, 2 4 7-248, 268 Smoke point, 30, 232 Smoke roasting, 4 2 8 ,4 3 0 -4 3 1 Smokers, 65 Smothering aromatic vegetables, 242 Snails (escargot), 119 Snapper, 107,108 Snow peas, 166,167 Soaking grains and legumes, 752, 753 Soba noodles, 213, 214 Soda bread, rubbed-dough method for, 1048-1051 Sodium, 26 Software systems, 5 Sole, 102,103,412 Sommelier, 10 Sorghum, 211 Souffle dishes, 862, 865 Souffleed omelets, 858, 860, 861 Souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5 Soups. See also Broths; Stocks bisque, 325-329

chowder, 320 cold, 331 cream, 317-319, 330 degreasing, 330 flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 guidelines for, 330-331 mise en place for, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 puree, 321-324 reheating, 331 thickeners for, 315, 316, 320, 325 Sour cream, 183,184 healthy substitutions, 25 Sourdough starter, 1017 Sous chef, 9 Sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 South Carolina barbecue, 431 Soy allergies, 37 Soybean oil, 233 Soybeans dried, 218,1161 green (edamame), 166,167 Soy milk, 184 Spaghetti, 213, 214 Spaghetti squash, 152,153 Spanish blue cheese, 196,197 Spanish onion, 162,163 Spanish rice, 204 Spareribs, 86, 88, 89 Spas, career opportunities in, 8 Spatulas, 52, 53 Spatzle, 808 Spelt, 211 Spices. See also Seasonings blends, 362 in broths, 312, 314 mixes, 225 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0 sachet d’epices, 240, 241, 254, 259 toasting, 362 varieties of, 222 -2 2 5 Spinach, 158,159 Spit roasting, 428 Split peas, 216, 218,1161 Sponge cake, 1021 Spreads, sandwich, 932 -9 3 3 Springform pan, 60, 62 Squab, 97 Squash Hard-shell, 152-153 Soft-shell, 150-151 Squash blossoms, 150,151 Squid, 122,123 cleaning, 4 2 0 -4 2 1 Stabilizers, in baking, 1016 Staff kitchen brigade, 9 -1 0 legal responsibilities to, 6 personal hygiene of, 33, 34, 38 service staff, 10,15, 37 substance abuse problems of, 39 training of, 6 Stainless steel pots and pans, 56, 60 Standardized recipes, 15 Star anise, 222, 225 Starches as emulsifier, 30 as thickener, 29, 247 -2 4 8 , 268, 1016 Star fruit (carambola), 146 Stayman winesap apples, 130,131 Steaks beef loin, 73, 76 beef rib, 74, 76 boneless, cutting, 382 chuck, 75, 76 fish, 100, 410 Steam, as leavening agent, 1017 Steamers, 57, 64 Steaming

meat, poultry and fish, 5 32-535 en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 potatoes, 717 vegetables, 6 5 1-653 vegetables, pan-steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Steam-jacketed kettle, 64 Steam table pan, 62 Steel-cut oats (Irish, Scottish), 209 Steelhead trout, 111 Steels/steeling knives, 5 0 -5 1 Stenciled cookies, 1069 Stewing meat, poultry, and fish, 5 7 7 -5 8 0 thickeners in, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677 vegetables, 6 7 7 -6 7 9 Stewing hen (fowl), 97 Stew meat beef, 76, 79 lamb, 93 veal, 81, 82, 84 Sticky rice, 205 Stilton cheese, 196,197 Stir-frying, 4 8 8 ,4 8 9 , 6 6 9 -6 7 0 St. Louis barbecue, 431 Stockpot, 5 7 ,5 8 -5 9 , 254 Stocks. See also Broths; Soups in aspic, 987 basic formula, 255 for broths, 303 commercial bases, 261 for consomme, 306 cooking times for, 262 flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 , 2 5 4 -2 5 5 , 259 glaces, 261 in pan sauce, 491 preparation of, 2 5 8 -2 6 0 remouillage, 261 for sauces, 270, 274 types of, 254, 2 5 6 -2 5 7 Stone fruits, 142-143 Storage. See Dry storage; Food storage; Freezing; Refrigeration Stoves. See Ovens; Ranges Straight mixing method, for yeast dough, 1027 Strainers, 55 Straining bisque, 329 broth, 305 consomme, 309 cream soup, 318 pan gravy, 434 puree soup, 324 sauces, 271, 277 stock, 260 Strawberries, 132,133 Striped bass, 107,108 Striped eddy squash, 152 Stuffings, 364, 367, 428 Sturgeon, 114,115 Sugar caramelizing, 28, 29 dry method, 1018 wet method, 1019 in creamed batter, 1054 in foamed batter, 1058 ,1 0 6 0 as liquefier, 1016 syrup, 230,1019 types of, 2 2 8 -2 2 9 , 231 Sugarcane, 229, 231 Sugar snap peas, 166,167 Sugar substitutes, 229 Sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes), 172,173 Sunflower oil, 233 Sunflower seeds, 219, 221 Supremes chicken, 3 9 4 -3 9 5 citrus, 891

Supreme sauce, 278, 291 Sushi rice, 205 Sustainable agriculture, 11,128 Sustainable restaurants, 12 Sweating vegetables, 666, 680 aromatic, 242, 276, 762 Sweetbreads, 71, 81, 83, 3 9 0 -3 9 1 Sweet dumpling squash, 152 Sweetened condensed milk, 183 Sweeteners. See also Sugar artificial, 229 glazing vegetables with, 654 types of, 2 2 8 -2 3 1 Sweet peppers. See Peppers, sweet Sweet potatoes, 172,173 Sweet potato squash (delicata), 152, 153 Swimming method of deep frying, 499 Swiss buttercream, 1108 Swiss chard, 158,159 Swiss meringue, 1020-1021 Swordfish, 114,115 Syrup, 230 simple, 1019 Szechwan peppercorns, 227

t

Table salt, 227 Tail, pig’s, 88 Taleggio cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9 Tang, knife, 45 Tangelo, 134,135 Tangerine, 134,135 Tapioca, 247, 248 Tarragon, 180 Tart pan, 60, 62 Tarts. See Pies and tarts Tea, 235 Teaching, career opportunities in,

8,10 Teff, 211 Temperature conversions, 1164 of fats, in pan frying, 495, 673 of fats, in deep frying, 499, 676 food storage, 34, 70 in forcemeat preparation, 987, 989 resting, for meat and poultry, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 for sauce plating, 292 for soup reheating, 331 for soup service, 331 in sous vide cooking, 548, 549 for stuffing, holding, 364, 428 Tempered chocolate, 1116,1117 Tenderloin beef, 73, 79 lamb, 92 medallions, 378 pork, 89 trimming, 377 Terrines, forcemeats for. See Forcemeats Texas barbecue, 431 Thai chiles (bird), 164,165 Thawing frozen food, 36 Thermal circulator, in sous vide cooking, 550, 551 Thermometers, 5 4 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 7 , 550 Thickeners. See also Roux in baking, 1016 for braises, 572 healthier options, 316, 326 ingredients, 234 liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 for sauces, 268, 269, 271 for soups, 315, 316, 320, 325 starch slurries, 29, 247-248, 268 for stews, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677

SUB JECT IN D E X

1211

Thompson seedless grapes, 136,137 Thyme, 178,180 Tilapia (mudfish), 116 Tilefish, 107,109 Tilting kettle, 64 Timbale mold, 62 Time management, 6 -7 Toasting dried chiles, 645 Tokay grapes, 137 Tomatillos, 176,177 Tomatoes in braises, 572, 575 in broth, 314 concasse, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 cutting, 637 heirloom, 176,177 in mirepoix, 242, 245 sauce, 2 8 0 -2 8 2 varieties of, 176-177 Tombo (albacore), 111 Tongue beef, 77 fabrication of, 390 lamb, 92 veal, 82 Tools. See Equipment and tools Tournedos, 378 Tourne knife, 46,47, 630 Tourne knife cut, 624, 630 Toxins, 32 Tranche, 411 Trichinella spiralis, 32 Trim, usable, 1 9 -2 0 Trim loss, 18 Tripe, 75, 77 Trout, 110, 111 Truffle, black and white, 161 Truffles, chocolate, 1116 Trussing poultry, 3 9 6 -3 9 7 Tube pan, 63 Tubers, 171-173 Tubetti, 212, 215 Tuna, 110,112 Turbinado sugar, 228, 229 Turbot, 102,104 Turkey, 97, 367 Turmeric, 222, 225 Turnip greens, 149 Turnips, 168,169,170 Turtle beans (black), 216, 217

U Udon noodles, 214 Ugli fruit (uniq), 134,135 Unemployment insurance, 6 Uniform, chefs, 38 Uniq (ugli fruit), 134,135 United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), 36, 70, 80, 8 5 ,1 2 8 ,1 9 8 , 366 Usable trim, 1 9 -2 0 U.S. measurement system, converting to metric, 17 Utility knife, 4 6 ,4 7

SUB JE C T INDEX

Vacuum bag, in sous vide cooking, 548, 550, 551 Valois sauce, 287 Vanilla sauce, 1095 Variety meats (offal) beef, 71, 77 fabrication of, 390 -3 9 1 lamb, 92 pork, 88 storage of, 70 veal, 81, 8 2 -8 3 Veal. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 8 2 -8 3 cuts of, 8 0 - 8 4 doneness of, 367 grades of, 80 kosher, 71 market forms of, 82 stock, 262, 268 variety meats, 81, 8 2 -8 3 Vegetable chef (entremetier), 9 Vegetable oil, 233 Vegetables. See also specific vegetables as appetizer, 947 aromatic. See Aromatic vegetables baking, 661 -6 6 3 boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 chowders, 320 cutting. See Cutting vegetables and herbs deep frying, 6 7 4 -6 7 6 defined, 129 doneness, 649, 680 dried, rehydrating, 645 dried, toasting, 645 edible portion, 19 grilling/broiling, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 guidelines, 680 heirloom, 11 locally grown, 11,128 mise en place for, 6 1 8 -6 4 6 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 organic, 11,128 pan frying, 671-673 pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9 peeling, 619 in polenta, 759 production methods, 11,128 pureeing, 664 reheating, 680 roasting. See Roasted vegetables salads, 894 sauteing, 6 6 5 -6 6 7 selecting, 128 shocking to cool, 650 soup, clear, 312 soup, puree, 321 steaming, 651-653 stewing/braising, 677-679 stir-frying, 6 6 8 -6 7 0 stock, 254, 255, 256, 260, 262 storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9

sweating, 242, 276, 666, 670 trimming, 623 usable trim, 19 varieties of, 147-177 yield, calculating, 18 Vegetarian diet, protein in, 24 Veloute in bisque, 326, 328 in cream soup, 316 sauce, 274, 278 Venison, cuts of, 94 Venus grapes, 137 Vermicelli, 214 Vermilion snapper, 107,108 Vertical chopping machine (VCM), 68 Villeroy sauce, 278 Vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 -8 8 2 , 889 Vin blanc sauce, 278 Vinegar, 234 flavored, 883 in mayonnaise, 884 in vinaigrette, 881, 882 Viruses, 32 Vitamin A, 26 Vitamin B-complex, 26 Vitamin C, 26 Vitamin D, 26 Vitamin E, 26 Vitamin K, 26 Vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5 functions and food sources, 26 Volume measure, 15,17 conversions, 17,1163

W Waffie/gaufrette knife cut, 628 Walk-in refrigeration, 65 Walleyed pike, 107,108 Walnut oil, 233 Walnuts, 219, 221 Water bath, 57, 5 5 0 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3 ,1 0 9 6 , 1117 Watercress, 156,157 Watermelon, 138,139 Weakfish, 108 Weight measure, 15,17 conversions, 17,1163 equivalents, 1166 Wheat, 201, 203 Wheat allergies, 37 Wheat berries, 201, 203,1162 Wheat bran, 201, 203 Wheat flour, 202, 203 ,1 0 2 6 Wheat germ, 201, 203 Whelk, 119 Whipped cream heavy cream for, 182,183 in mousse, 948, 949, 951 stages of, 1019 Whisks, 52, 53 White sauce, 2 7 4 -2 7 9 White stock, 254, 256, 260, 262 Whole grains, 200 Whole wheat flour, 202, 203

Wild rice, 204, 205,1162 William pears (Bartlett), 140,141 Wine in pan sauce, 491 selecting, 235 Wine steward (ch efd e vin), 10 Wok, 59, 669 Wolffish, 105,106 Wood in grilling process, 424 in smoking process, 434 Workplace drug and alcohol abuse in, 39 government regulations in, 39 orderly, 7 safety, 6, 38 World cuisines, and culinary exchange, 12

y

Yams, 173 Yard-long beans (Chinese long beans), 166,167 Yeast, 234 types of, 1017 viability of, 1026-1027 Yeast dough baking loaves, 1031 enriched and lean, 1026 fermentation, 1027,1029,1031 finishing methods, 1032 ingredients for, 1026-1027 mixing methods, 1027-1028 resting, 1029 shaping, 1030 Yellow potatoes, 171,173 Yellow squash, 150,151 Yellowtail snapper, 107,108 Yield as-purchased quantity, 18 butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2 edible portion quantity, 19 of fruit and vegetables, 18 recipe conversion factor, 16 Yield percent, 18,19 Yogurt, 183,184 frozen, 184 Yucca (manioc), 172,173 Yukon gold potatoes, 171,173

Z Zest, citrus, 891 Zingara sauce, 273 Zucchini, 150,151