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ROTARY TOOL MILLING MACHINE

© 2014 August Home Publishing Co.

shop-built machines

rotary tool

Milling Machine This 3-axis milling machine provides a new level of accuracy for making small parts.

There have been more than a few times when I’ve wished for some way to precisely mill small project pieces or parts for modelmaking. But a traditional, 3-axis milling machine can cost several hundred dollars or more. The milling machine you see here uses a rotary tool to power 1

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the tool bit. The precision comes from two sliding tables that move the workpiece in the X (left-right) and Y (front-back) directions. A platform moves the tool up or down in the Z direction. Simple hardware makes this possible. The bulk of the machine is made from Baltic birch plywood.

Some parts are made from strong, hard maple for durability. With the right bit plus proper feed and speed rates, it can handle wood, plastic, brass, and aluminum. The milling machine is a handy tool to have in the workshop and the perfect solution for machining in miniature.

©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

Exploded View Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 223⁄16"D x 167⁄8"W x 237⁄8"H

Z-AXIS ASSEMBLY MOVES TOOL UP AND DOWN

DOUBLE THICKNESS PLYWOOD POSTS ADD RIGIDITY

VARIABLE-SPEED ROTARY TOOL ALLOWS MACHINING A VARIETY OF MATERIALS

SHOP-MADE ALUMINUM CLAMPS HOLD TOOL IN PLACE

HARDWOOD GIBS AND WAYS PROVIDE SMOOTH OPERATION

WORKPIECE IS CLAMPED TO REPLACEABLE SPOILBOARD ON ROTARY TABLE

SHOP-MADE CLAMPS HOLD ROTARY TABLE IN POSITION

Y-AXIS ASSEMBLY MOVES WORKPIECE FRONT-TO-BACK

X-AXIS ASSEMBLY MOVES WORKPIECE SIDE-TO-SIDE

HANDWHEELS MAKE POSITIONING WORKPIECE EASY

Materials & Hardware A B C D E F G H I J K L M N 2

Base (1) Posts (2) Tool Platform (1) X-Axis Platform (1) X-Axis Slide (1) X-Axis Ways (2) End Blocks (4) X-Axis Gibs (2) Y-Axis Slide (1) Y-Axis Ways (2) Y-Axis Platform (1) Y-Axis Gibs (2) Rotary Table Base (1) Spoilboard (1)

13 x 18 - 11⁄2 Ply. 10 x 13 - 11⁄2 Ply. 5 x 111⁄2 - 3⁄4 Ply. 51⁄2 x 13 - 3⁄4 Ply. 23⁄4 x 51⁄2 - 1 Ply. 5⁄ x 1 - 51⁄ 8 2 3⁄ x 1 - 21⁄ 4 2 15⁄ x 13⁄ - 111⁄ 16 16 2 23⁄4 x 51⁄2 - 1 Ply. 5⁄ x 1 - 51⁄ 8 2 51⁄2 x 10 - 3⁄4 Ply. 15⁄ x 13⁄ - 81⁄ 16 16 2 61⁄2-dia. - 3⁄4 Ply. 61⁄2-dia. - 3⁄4 Ply.

O P Q R S T U V W

3⁄ x 11⁄ - 1⁄ Alum. Hold-Downs (2) 4 2 8 Z-Axis Slide (1) 21⁄4 x 8 - 1 Ply. 5⁄ x 1 - 8 Z-Axis Ways (2) 8 1 Tool Bracket (1) 1 ⁄2 x 2 - 31⁄2 3⁄ x 2 - 23⁄ Nose Bracket (1) 4 4 Rod Block (1) 1 x 17⁄8 - 21⁄2 15⁄ x 13⁄ - 8 Z-Axis Gibs (2) 16 16 1 1 Tool Clamp (1) 1 ⁄2 x 3 ⁄2 Rgh. - 1⁄16 Alum. Nose Clamp (1) 3⁄4 x 23⁄4 Rgh. - 1⁄16 Alum.

• (2) 3⁄8"-16 x 24" Left-Hand Threaded Rods • (8) 3⁄8"-16 Left-Hand Thin Hex Nuts • (6) 3⁄8" SAE Flat Washers • (3) 3⁄8"-16 Left-Hand Coupling Nuts

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• (3) 31⁄4"-dia. Zinc Handwheels • (2) 1⁄4"-20 Threaded Inserts • (4) 1⁄4"-20 Through Knobs • (2) 1⁄4"-20 x 1" Studded Knobs • (1) 1⁄4"-20 x 12" Threaded Rod • (18) #8 x 11⁄4" Rh Woodscrews • (8) #8 x 3" Fh Woodscrews • (18) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews • (8) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews • (1) 3⁄8"-16 x 12" Threaded Rod • (4) 3⁄8"-16 Thin Hex Nuts • (2) 3⁄8"-16 Coupling Nuts • (1) 1⁄2"-dia. x 11⁄4" Steel Rod • (8) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews

©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

2

!/4"-RAD.

1

FIGURE

PAINT EDGES OF TOOL PLATFORM

3!/2

1#/16

POSTS

TOOL PLATFORM

CL

(5" x 11!/2")

C

!/2 !/4"-RAD.

NOTE: RIP BEVELS WHILE BLANKS ARE SQUARE, BEFORE CUTTING TO FINAL SHAPE

TOOL PLATFORM

65°

NOTE: TILT TOOL PLATFORM

B

SIDE VIEW

BLADE 25° TO CUT BEVELS

TOP VIEW

B POST

(10" x 13")

1!/4

NOTE: POSTS AND BASE GLUED UP FROM TWO LAYERS OF #/4" PLYWOOD

#8 x 2" Fh WOODSCREW

2"-RAD. 5

POST

!/2"-RAD.

A BASE

3

POST

(13" x 18") !/2 1!/2

2"-DIA.

SIDE VIEW

NOTE: POSTS & BASE

PAINTED AFTER ASSEMBLY 6

starting with a

Base

One of the keys to accuracy in a milling machine is the stoutness and stability of its base. It has to hold the tool steady without vibration. To accomplish this goal, the base and post assemblies are made up of two layers of 3⁄ " Baltic birch plywood. So the 4 first step is to glue up some plywood blanks for the three parts, as shown in Figure 1.

2

X-AXIS PLATFORM (5!/2" x 13 - #/4" Ply.)

POST POST

BASE

PAINT EDGES OF X-AXIS PLATFORM

3

Base & Posts. The base is easy to make by cutting it to size and rounding the corners with a disk sander. For the posts, it’s a good idea to cut the blanks to overall size first. A little layout work is required to outline their shape. While the blank is still rectangular, it’s easy to rip the beveled edge, as in Figure 1 and the Top View above. With that done, you’ll shape them at the band saw and then put them aside. Tool Platform. To provide a sturdy mount for the rotary tool, a tool platform connects the two

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D

1!/2

#8 x 1!/2" Fh WOODSCREW

posts at the top. It’s cut to shape at the band saw and sanded smooth. After laying out the locations for the screw holes, drill them at the drill press and attach the platform to the posts. Then you can install the post assembly to the base with screws, making sure the platform is parallel to the front edge of the base.

X-TABLE ASSEMBLY The next phase of the construction process involves building up the X-Y table that moves the workpiece side-to-side and frontto-back. Each sliding table uses a threaded rod mechanism to move a slide between a pair of dovetailed gibs and ways. You’ll build this assembly from the bottom up, starting with a rectangular platform (Figure 2). Once it’s secured to the base with screws, you can turn your attention to the moving parts. Figures 3, 4, and 5 give you the rundown and all of the details on how the rest of the X-table

©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

assembly goes together. I’ll help out with some of the more important points along the way. Two-Part Slide. Figure 3 shows how the X-table consists of a two-part slide and a pair of ways. A pair of coupling nuts are trapped between the halves of the slide. These engage the threaded rod used to move the table between the gibs. Left-Hand Threads. A note about the threads: When turning the handwheels that are used to move the tables, I wanted to mimic the action of production milling machines. When turning the crank clockwise, it moves the table away from you. In order to do this, you’ll need to use nuts and rods with left-hand threads. Refer to Sources on page 10. The slide is made from two layers of 1⁄2" plywood. I started with a long blank cut to width. Then I cut a groove down the center. This groove forms a slot for capturing the coupling nuts. Before gluing the halves of the slide together, you’ll need to use epoxy to position the coupling nuts. I threaded them onto the rod and then “tacked” them into the groove with epoxy. You can then remove the rod and glue on the second layer of the slide. Ways & End Blocks. To create the ways, I glued extra-wide hardwood to the long edges of the slide and then ripped the bevels at the table saw, as illustrated in Figure 3. Two end blocks support each end of the threaded

5

NOTE:

ADJUST GIBS FOR A SMOOTH, SLIDING FIT

3

#/8"-16 x 15" LH THREADED ROD

X-AXIS SLIDE

(2#/4" x 5!/2" - 1" Ply.)

E

a.

CL

SIDE VIEW %/32

#/8

25° %/16 WAY

F X-AXIS WAY

#/8"-16 x 1#/4" LH COUPLING NUT

(%/8" x 1" - 5!/2")

4

NOTE: EPOXY COUPLING LEFT-HAND NUTS IN GROOVE COUPLING BEFORE ASSEMBLING NUT AND SLIDE HALVES THREADED ROD

!#/32"-DIA. !#/32"-DIA. HOLE HOLECENTERED CENTERED ON ONEND ENDBLOCK BLOCK

#/8"-16 #/8"-16LH LH THIN THINHEX HEX NUTS NUTS w/WASHERS w/WASHERS

POST POST

BASE BASE

3!/3!/ 4"-DIA. 4"-DIA. HANDWHEEL HANDWHEEL

!/4!/"-RAD. 4"-RAD.

GG END ENDBLOCK BLOCK

(#/(#/ 4"4"x x1"1"- -2!/2") 2!/2")

a.

TOP VIEW

GG

LEFT-HAND HEX NUTS w/WASHER

END BLOCK X-AXIS PLATFORM

b.

LEFT-HAND THREADED ROD

FRONT VIEW

CL LEFT-HAND THREADED ROD

rod, as shown in Figure 4. You’ll want to make four since you’ll need two for the Y-table later. Fasten the end blocks to the X-axis platform, flush with the ends of the platform and centered on its width, as shown in

LEFT-HAND COUPLING NUT

Figure 4. Then add the rod and handwheel assembly. The gibs (Figure 5) are easy to make. As with the ways, they’re bevel ripped. Oversized holes allow for adjustment for a sliding fit when fastening them in place.

a.

#8 x 1!/4" Rh WOODSCREW

H #/8"-DIA. COUNTERBORE !/4" DEEP, WITH !/4"-DIA. THROUGH HOLE

FILE A FLAT ON THREADED ROD FOR HANDWHEEL SET SCREW

TOP VIEW

b.

GIB

!/4

WAY

SLIDE

BASE SLIDE

GIB #/4

H X-AXIS GIB

SIDE VIEW

GIB

!/4"-RAD. #/4

(!%/16" x 1#/16" - 11!/2")

4

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©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

completing the

6

Table

FIGURE

END BLOCK

NOTE: PLATFORM

J

a.

(2#/4" x 5!/2" - 1" Ply.)

FRONT VIEW

%/8

%/16

SLIDE

X-AXIS SLIDE

screw holes before attaching this sub-assembly to the X-slide, as illustrated in Figure 6a. Y-Platform. The Y-platform should be familiar territory by now. It holds the mechanism for moving the workpiece. After cutting it to size, you’ll need to drill some holes. Oversized, counterbored holes along each edge hold the gibs in place and allow for adjustment. You need to drill another pair of holes for threaded

inserts used to clamp the rotary table. Finally, a center hole holds a pin for the rotary table. After mounting the two remaining end blocks you made earlier (Figure 7), add the threaded rod assembly, as shown in Figure 8. You can also attach the handwheel. Y-Axis Gibs. In Figure 9, you’ll see how the gibs are attached under the platform. They secure the platform assembly to the

!/4"-20 THREADED INSERT 1!/2 #/8"-16 12" RIGHT-HAND THREADED ROD AND THIN HEX NUTS w/WASHER

1!/2

!/2

K Y-AXIS PLATFORM

END BLOCK

(5!/2" x 10" - #/4" Ply.)

a.

WAY

#/4

%/32

#/8"-16 RH THREADED THIN HEX NUTS w/WASHER

CL

CL

I Y-AXIS SLIDE

8

SHOWN UPSIDE DOWN

1#/4

J

#/8-16 - 1#/4" COUPLING NUT

You’ve taken care of the X-axis for the table assembly. Now, you’ll switch gears to build the Y-axis subassembly and a rotary table. The Y-axis table is similar to the X-axis table you just built. The differences are that it’s mounted upside down and shorter in length. There’s one other thing to note. Since the slide and way assembly are fixed to the X-axis slide, you can use right-hand threads for the rod and coupling nuts. This way, as you rotate the handwheel clockwise, the workpiece moves away from the handwheel as it does on the X-axis. Y-Slide. Like the X-slide you built earlier, the Y-slide is made up of two layers of 1⁄2" plywood, as you can see in Figure 6. The coupling nuts are trapped in a groove. I threaded the nuts onto the rod to properly orient the threads and hold the nuts in position until the epoxy set up. The ways are glued to the slide and the bevels ripped as before. Then you can drill countersunk

7

Y-AXIS WAY

(%/8" x 1" - 5!/2")

CL

END BLOCK

a.

SIDE VIEW

1!/2

PLATFORM Y-AXIS SLIDE

!/2 Y-AXIS PLATFORM

HANDWHEEL

FRONT VIEW 5

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©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

9

FIGURE

a.

slide assembly. Roundhead !%/16 FRONT VIEW SPOILBOARD screws allow for adusting the fit (6!/2"-DIA. x #/4" Ply.) #/8 SPOILBOARD of the gibs against the ways. You N !/4 ROTARY TABLE BASE want a smooth, sliding fit when %/16 turning the handwheel. Rotary Table. The last piece of !/16 the overall table assembly is the GIB GIB addition of a rotary table, as in Figure 9. It’s made !/4"-20 x 1" STUDDED up of two layers of plyKNOB wood. But the top layer is SPOILBOARD simply screwed to the botSIDE tom layer. It’s sometimes VIEW ROTARY called a “spoilboard” and TABLE BASE is designed to be easily M replaced as needed. ROTARY TABLE BASE The bottom layer of the (6!/2"-DIA. x #/4" Ply.) rotary table has a groove O around the circumference. HOLD-DOWN #/4" x 1!/2" - !/8" ALUMINUM This enables two clamps to Y-AXIS GIB (REFER TO SHOP !/2"-DIA. x 1!/4" (!%/16"-1#/16" x 8!/2") SHORTCUTS, engage the rotary table to STEEL PIN L PAGE 32) keep it from spinning. I cut the two disks slightly oversized at the band saw. You could also use a straight bit in a router with a circle-cutting jig. I used the bottom disk as a template to flush-trim the top disk. You might just as well make a couple of extra disks to have on hand. The spoilboard will get chewed up over time as you use the table to rotate. I glued the pin a studded knob to pass through the milling machine. to secure it to the platform (Figinto the disk with epoxy. To cut the groove around the Hold-Downs. Using the mill- ure 9b). To find out how to make edge of the bottom layer, I used ing machine to make straight the hold-downs and two other a 1⁄4" slot-cutting bit in the router cuts in the X- or Y-directions clamps you’ll need later, turn to table. Shop Short Cuts on page 9 requires locking the rotary table. Shop Short Cuts on page 9. I found that a vise is useful at explains the process. Once that’s A pair of shop-made hold-downs done, you can drill a center hole are made from aluminum bar times for holding parts. The box for a steel pivot pin that allows stock. An oversized hole allows below shows how to build one.

b.

Optional Auxiliary Vise An auxiliary vise makes it easy to secure small parts for machining. All you need to do is remove the rotary table and secure the vise with screws to the Y-axis platform. You can also attach it to the spoilboard on the rotary table to make circular or arc cuts. The vise consists of a plywood base and two hardwood jaws (I used maple). One of the jaws is fixed to the base with screws while the other jaw “floats.” Long carriage bolts, through 6

MOVABLE JAW (1" x 1!/2" - 3#/4")

knobs, and washers connect the two jaws, as illustrated at right. The knobs are the same style used to clamp the rotary tool motor in place (refer to page 8).

a.

!/4" WASHER

CL

#/8

#/8

!/4"-20 THROUGH KNOB (SEE SOURCES ON PAGE 51)

CARRIAGE BOLT

1!/4

BASE

(4" x 5" - !/2" Ply.)

#/16"-DIA. THROUGH HOLE

BASE

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FIXED JAW

(1" x 1!/2" - 3#/4")

!/2

FIXED JAW

MOVABLE JAW

!/4"-20 x 4" CARRIAGE BOLT !/2

(/32"-DIA. THROUGH HOLE

1

THROUGH KNOB w/WASHER

#8 x 1!/4" Fh WOODSCREW

!/4"-DIA. THROUGH HOLE

NOTE: JAWS

MADE FROM HARDWOOD. BASE IS !/2" PLYWOOD

©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

finishing the motor

Mount

10

FIGURE

NOTE: EPOXY COUPLING

NUT INTO TOOL BRACKET

Z-AXIS SLIDE

(2!/4" x 8" - 1" Ply.)

2!/4

#/8"-16 x 1#/4" LH COUPLING NUT (CUT TO 1!/2" LONG) SIZE HOLE FOR TIGHT FIT OF COUPLING NUT

%/8

TOP VIEW Z-AXIS SLIDE

WAY

CL

!/2

P Attaching the rotary 2"-DIA. tool to the base is the TOOL #/4 next task. It’s secured BRACKET to a mechanism that Q moves the tool vertiZ-AXIS WAY TOP VIEW (%/8" x 1" - 8") cally in the Z direction. !/4"-DIA. R Like the X- and Y-axis TOOL BRACKET WAY Z-AXIS tables you’ve already (1!/2" x 2" - 3!/2") SLIDE completed, it follows C #8 x 1!/2" Fh L WOODSCREW NOSE a similar construc1 BRACKET tion path. The main S !/2 1"-DIA. difference is that the NOSE BRACKET (#/4" x 2" - 2#/4") !/8" CHAMFER threaded rod assembly passes through a coutool bracket is made to fit the ple of brackets used to A pair of holes on the front body of the tool. It also holds the of the brackets hold lengths of hold the tool in position. Z-Axis Slide & Ways. The coupling nut that engages the threaded rod. They’re used to slide is made of two layers of ply- threaded rod to move the tool secure the aluminum clamps wood as before, except there’s no up and down. The lower nose that hold the tool in place. You’ll need to cut a groove for coupling bracket fits around the nose of add the threaded rod later. In the nuts. The ways are glued and cut the tool (Figures 10a and 10b). meantime, drill and install the To make each of the brackets, coupling nut in the tool bracket. with the technique that is familI started with extra-wide blanks. Attach each bracket with a pair of iar to you by now (Figure 10). Brackets. To hold the rotary After drilling the holes that form screws from the back of the slide. tool in place, you’ll need to make the U-shaped recess, they’re cut Rod Block. In order to easa couple of brackets. The upper to final width. ily move the tool up and down, you’ll need to make a rod block. FIGURE It’s shown in Figure 11. The HANDWHEEL LEFT-HAND THIN HEX NUTS threaded rod passes through and w/WASHER spins in this block to engage the ADD FLAT TO ROD TO SECURE SET threads in the coupling nut in the SCREW #/8 !#/32"-DIA. tool bracket. The rod block stays #/8"-16 x 9#/4" LH #8 x 1!/4" Fh THREADED SIDE stationary on the tool platform as ROD WOODSCREW ROD w/THIN BLOCK VIEW HEX NUTS & the tool moves. WASHERS TOOL LEFT-HAND T Figure 11a shows how the PLATTHREADED ROD BLOCK FORM ROD threaded rod and handwheel are (1" x 1&/8" - 2!/2") attached after you fasten the rod SLIDE block to the tool platform. Then WAY you can focus your attention on #8 x 1!/4" Rh WOODSCREW the adjustable gibs. Gibs. There’s nothing new to tell you about the gibs that trap the Z-axis platform. They’re simiPOST lar to ones you’ve already made TOOL TOOL PLATFORM and installed (Figure 11). OverBRACKET sized holes allow for adjustment T Z-AXIS so the slide travels smoothly. WAY SLIDE Z-AXIS GIB Wax & Adjust. Once you have the assembly together to this point, it’s a good idea to apply U TOP VIEW Z-AXIS GIB NOSE some paste wax to the gibs, ways, !/16 (!%/16" x 1#/16" - 8") TOOL BRACKET BRACKET and the threads on the threaded rods. This ensures smooth travel

a.

b.

11

a.

b.

7

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©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

of all the mechanisms as you’re using the machine. You should also take the time to adjust the gibs to ensure a smooth, sliding fit. Shop-Made Clamps. The rotary tool is held to the brackets with a pair of shop-made aluminum clamps attached with knobs, as illustrated in Figure 12. The knobs engage the short lengths of threaded rod I mentioned earlier. The threaded rod forms the studs that are simply epoxied into the brackets. The clamps are made from aluminum bar stock. To shape them, I used mating pairs of molding blocks to form the metal in a vise. You can see how I made them in Shop Short Cuts on page 9. After cutting the clamps to length and drilling a hole at each end of the clamp, fasten the rotary tool in place with through knobs.

12

NOTE: EPOXY THREADED ROD INTO BRACKETS TO FORM STUDS

a.

THREADED ROD

TOP VIEW

TOOL CLAMP

(1!/2" x 3!/2" Rgh. !/16" Alum.)

V

TOOL CLAMP

THROUGH KNOB

b.

THREADED ROD

!/4"-20 THROUGH KNOB !/4"-20 x 1!/2" THREADED ROD

NOSE CLAMP W

(#/4" x 2#/4" Rgh. - !/16" Alum.)

VARIABLE-SPEED ROTARY TOOL

TOOL CLAMP

THROUGH KNOB

BOTTOM VIEW

You’ll want to make sure the tool fits tight so it won’t vibrate during use. This ensures a cleaner cut as you use the machine. For more on using it, see below.

Using the Milling Machine The key to success in milling is finding the right combination of spindle speed, depth of cut, and feed rate. The first can be handled with a variable-speed rotary tool. The depth of cut and feed rate are determined by the speed and amount of rotation of the three handwheels. Each full rotation of the handwheel advances the workpiece (or tool) 1⁄16".

Another factor that guarantees success is investing in quality bits. Look for solid carbide bits that are designed for milling. (You’ll find some listed in Sources on page 10.) The 1⁄8"-dia. shank size on the bits for your rotary tool means they can flex a bit if you’re making a heavy cut. So be sure to make cuts in several lighter passes to extend bit life and avoid breaking them.

{  X Direction. Spinning the handwheel clockwise moves the workpiece to the left. One rotation equals 1⁄16" of travel.

{  Y Direction. Rotating the handwheel clockwise moves the workpiece toward the back of the machine.

8

WoodsmithPlans.com SN13634

{  Z Direction. The handwheel determines the depth of cut. Stick with shallow passes for cleaner cuts.

©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

Shop Short Cuts Circular Groove Routing the groove in the rotary table for the milling machine isn’t difficult. I used a slot-cutting bit at the router table. The problem is, most of these bits cut a slot up to 1⁄2" deep. To make the shallower, 3⁄8"-deep cut for the groove, I used a pair of guide blocks, as you can see in the drawings. The spacing between them determines the depth of cut into the disk. To make it easier to rotate the disk, I attached a temporary handle using double-sided tape.

HANDLE

ROTARY TABLE MOLD ROTARY TABLE BASE

GUIDE BLOCK

3!/2"-DIA. 1#/4

NOTE: SPACE GUIDE BLOCKS TO POSITION DISK FOR #/8" DEPTH OF CUT

a.

DOUBLE-SIDED 2!/2 TAPE !/4" SLOT CUTTING BIT

NOTE:

GUIDE BLOCK

2!/2

SECURE GUIDE BLOCKS WITH CLAMPS OR DOUBLE-SIDED TAPE

60°

#/8

TOP VIEW Tool Clamp

2#/4 NOSE MOLD

2 1"-DIA.

GUIDE BLOCK

ROTARY TABLE BASE

ROTARY TABLE MOLD

Aluminum Clamps The milling machine features the three aluminum 1!/2 clamps you see at right. Two of them secure the rotary tool to the tool brackets. A pair of the smallest ones lock the rotary table in place. To make it easy to form the shapes, I made clamping molds from hardwood. You can see how they work in the photos below. And the drawings on the right give you all the dimensions you need to make each of the three molds. I drilled a hole at each corner of the straight layout line where it meets the arc of the2#/bracket shape. 4 This serves as a pivot point for the scroll saw or NOSE band saw blade. This way, it’s easyMOLD to complete the 1!/2 arc cut without binding the blade. 2!/2 Using an extra-long aluminum blank, clamp it between the blocks to form the1"-DIA. final shape.

3!/2"-DIA.

Nose Clamp

1#/4

2!/2

2!/2

Rotary Table Clamp 3!/2 TOOL MOLD 2!/2

FIRST CUT

2#/4

SECOND CUT

NOSE MOLD

3!/2

1!/2

2!/2 2"-DIA.

#/16"-DIA. HOLE

1"-DIA.

STEP 1

STEP 2 3!/2 TOOL MOLD 2!/2

FIRST CUT

SECOND CUT

3!/2

2"-DIA.

{  Setup. Use double-sided tape to attach each half of the hardwood mold to the vise jaw. Place the aluminum blank between them, centering the blank on the mold. 9

WoodsmithPlans.com SN13634

{  Tight Squeeze. Start tightening the vise jaws to force the aluminum into the mold. Then you can cut the aluminum to final length and drill the holes used to attach the clamp. ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

#/16"-DIA. HOLE

MAIL ORDER SOURCES Woodsmith Store 800-444-7527 Inventables 312-775-7009 inventables.com Lee Valley 800-871-8158 leevalley.com McMaster-Carr 630-600-3600 mcmaster.com Proxxon 920-757-1718 proxxontools.com

Project Sources MILLING MACHINE  • McMaster-Carr 31⁄4”-dia. Handwheels. . . 6403K44 LH Threaded Rod. . . . 90036A031 LH Hex Nuts. . . . . . . 90083A031 LH Coupling Nuts. . . 93345A231 RH Threaded Rod. . . . 99086A123 RH Hex Nuts. . . . . . . 90494A031 RH Coupling Nuts. . . 90264A460 Through Knobs. . . . . . . . 6121K211 Studded Knobs. . . . . . . . 6079K14 • Proxxon Milling Cutter Set. . . . . . . . 27116 • Inventables End Mills . . . . . . . . . . . . 30238-01 Manufacturers and retailers will periodically redesign or discontinue some of their items. So you’ll want to gather all the hardware, supplies, and tools you need before you get started. It’s easy to adjust dimensions or drill different-sized holes to suit your hardware.

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©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.