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cosme tology T e a c h e r ’ s S T U D Y G U I D E

Art & Science Salon

A Resource for Your Cosm e tol og y C a re e r

STUDY GUIDE

T E AC HER’S EDI TI O N by Cl if S t . Ge r m a i n, Ph .D. Learning is a treasure that will follow its owner everywhere. — Chinese Proverb

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A Resource for Your Cosm e tol og y C a re e r

STUDY GUIDE

T E AC HER’S EDI TI O N

© 2000, 2010 Pivot Point International and Clif St. Germain Ph.D. ISBN 978-1-934636-75-6 2nd Edition 1st Printing, June 2010 This publication may not be reproduced or quoted in whole or in part in printed or electronic form, or used in presentations on radio, television, videotape, film or other electronic means without written permission from Pivot Point International. All rights reserved. Printed in Hong Kong. Pivot Point International, Inc. World Headquarters 1560 Sherman Avenue, Suite 700 Evanston, IL 60201 USA 847-866-0500 (Outside U.S.) 800-886-4247 www.pivot-point.com

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CONTENTS UNIT 1 THEORY ESSENTIALS 1. Professional Development. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 2. SALON ECOLOGY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 3. ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 4. ELECTRICITY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 5. CHEMISTRY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 6. SALON BUSINESS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161

UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES 7. TRICHOLOGY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Wet Hair Service Draping, Shampooing and Conditioning Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Basic Scalp Massage Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 8. design decisions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 9. haircutting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Solid Form Haircut Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Increase-Layered Form Haircut Rubric . . . . . . 205 Graduated Form Haircut Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Uniformly Layered Form Haircut Rubric. . . . . . 207 Combination Form Haircut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Square Form Haircut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Fade Haircut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 10. Hairstyling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Air Forming Solid Form Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Scrunching Layered Form Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Air Forming Graduated Form: Round Brush Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Air Forming Layered Form: Round Brush Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Air Forming Combination Form: 9-Row Brush Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Air Forming Combination Form: Round Brush/Curling Iron Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Pressing and Curling Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Fingerwaves and Flat Pincurls Rubric. . . . . . . . . 232

Straight Volume Rollers and Pincurls Rubric. . . 233 Curvature Volume Rollers and Pincurls Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Three-Strand Overbraid Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Three-Strand Underbraid Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 French Twist Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 11. wigs and hair additions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 12. Chemical Texturizing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Rectangle Perm Wrap Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Bricklay Perm Wrap Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Spiral Bricklay Perm Wrap Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . 269 Oblong and Spiral Bricklay Perm Wrap Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Virgin Thio Relaxer Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Relaxer Retouch Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Curl Reforming Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 13. HaiR coloring. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Semi-Permanent Color Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Oxidative Color: Darker Result Rubric . . . . . . . 303 Surface Painting Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Partial Highlights: Slicing Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Full Highlights: Weaving Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Double-Process Blond Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308

U NIT 3 NAIL AND SKIN SERVICES 14. the study of nails. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Basic Manicure Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Basic Pedicure Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Nail Tips Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Tips with Acrylic Overlay Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Sculptured Nails Rubric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 15. The study of skin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Basic Facial Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Basic Waxing Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Basic Makeup Application Rubric. . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Brain Conditioner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355

GLOSSARY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388



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OVERVIEW Welcome to the world of cosmetology. Maybe you wonder why there are two books instead of one. Well, that’s easy enough. Your text was written by experts, women and men who have proven their skills in the world you want to enter. Your Study Guide will be written by YOU. It is the place where learning will become your own. Everything you need to know to be successful in Salon Fundamentals is included in your Study Guide. It is designed to boost your learning potential and take the fear and confusion out of your professional preparation. Because everyone learns in different ways, it is reasonable to expect parts of this Study Guide to be easy for you and others difficult. Most of your life you have practiced certain ways of learning and avoided others. Take a moment now to think of some ways of learning that you avoid whenever you can. Over the next few days, talk with a few other people and find out what ways of learning they avoid. Most of those preferred and avoided ways of learning will be included in this Study Guide in order to make your learning more complete. You can gain confidence by thinking of your Study Guide as a jigsaw puzzle. Each piece involves a special way of learning, of using your brainpower. Put the easiest pieces together first. (Remember that the easiest pieces for you may be the hardest for someone else.) That way you will have more experience when you attempt the more difficult pieces. The more you practice the difficult parts, the easier they become and the smarter your brain becomes. Successful students are not born, after all. They evolve by developing a diverse set of learning tools that helps them connect new information to what they already know. This Study Guide aims to help you build as diverse a set of learning tools as you possibly can. Many of these tools can be grouped in a category called MINDFRAMES. Each MINDFRAME is a specific way of using your brainpower to make you smarter. Your Study Guide is organized into 7 different MINDFRAMES: PREVIEWING, NAMING, CONNECTING, SELF-CHECKING, APPLYING, SELF-TESTING and JOURNALING. These MINDFRAMES overlap in rich and rewarding ways just the way your mind itself does. One MINDFRAME flows into another. To help you identify the specific MINDFRAME each activity requires, there is an icon on every Study Guide page. You can identify what kind of brainpower you will be using most on that page. The MINDFRAME you need on each page is highlighted in cyan. On some pages, two MINDFRAMES are suggested. Here is how the MINDFRAMES help you become a more successful learner.

MINDFRAME ICON

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MINDFRAME 1: PREVIEWING Previewing sets the stage for purposeful learning. It enables you to get the big picture, the overall design of what you will study before you turn your attention to the details. Research tells us that 80% of what you need to learn is contained in 20% of the material you study. Known as the 80-20 rule, this finding supports the importance of knowing what to study before you begin. Your Study Guide aims to take the mystery out of what’s important by showcasing the most important material on the first page or two of each chapter. It gives you a sneak preview of the whole chapter. Let’s see how it works. Here is a sample of what you will see on the first page or two of each Study Guide chapter. The VALUE STATEMENT tells you why this material is important to you personally. The MAIN IDEA states the fundamental message of the chapter. The PLAN gives a graphic preview of the general content of the chapter. Together these pieces represent the “warm-up” stages of learning. “Warming up” by surveying the chapter and generating a few insights and questions before beginning greatly improves your concentration, memory and learning. If you’ve already looked at a chapter in your Salon Fundamentals Textbook, this first-page lineup in your Study Guide will look familiar. You have a VALUE STATEMENT, a MAIN IDEA and a PLAN there as well. Focus on these three important areas of your study: • Its importance to you personally (VALUE STATEMENT) • Its major message (MAIN IDEA) and • The way the ideas in the chapter will be developed (PLAN) As you proceed, you will notice that the Plan in the textbook has words, as do the Plans in the theory chapters of your Study Guide. The Plans in the more hands-on, practical chapters of the Guide have pictures. Throughout your study, try to link words and pictures in order to make your thinking visible to yourself and others. As you move from chapter to chapter, make sure to discuss with someone else how the words and pictures in the two Plans fit together. When you see a Study Guide Plan with no words, look at the corresponding Plan in your textbook. Write the words from the Textbook Plan on or near their corresponding pictures in the Study Guide Plan. That way you are creating a linkage of verbal and visual knowing.

MINDFRAME 2: NAMING Once you’ve seen the big picture, your MINDFRAME shifts. You begin NAMING what you are coming to know, putting it into your own words, arranging the material in a form that makes sense to you. Some years ago, Dr. Walter Paulk, from Cornell University, developed an excellent system of note-taking. This second MINDFRAME is modeled on his system and is called SmartNotes. Look at a sample page of SmartNotes. What do you see? Take a moment to identify how these pages are built and how many ways they offer clues for your learning.

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At the top of each SmartNotes page are the main topics you are studying and the corresponding page numbers in the textbook to consult for additional information. Familiarize yourself right away by referring to those pages in the text whenever you have questions or want clarification. That simple practice will deepen your learning and save you time. Instead of searching aimlessly for answers, you will know right where to go. The rest of the page is divided into two columns. Key terms and ideas are listed in the smaller left column. This column is commonly referred to as the “cue” column. The cue column has lots of white space so you can search the words and easily locate important ideas. All of the words in the cue column are important. These words are arranged in ways that help you connect segments of the chapter that should be studied together. They are presented in an order that eventually will help you to tell a story about what you are learning. When you put ideas into a story, you are building important links that your brain can use to remember what you are learning. Here are some recommendations for using these pages: • Pay particular attention to these key terms and ideas. • Note your thoughts in the right-hand column while reading your textbook. • Refer to the Glossary at the end of your Study Guide for terms that you may need as a quick review. • Add what you hear during a class discussion to your notes in the right column. • Try to use your growing set of notes to tell a story. How exactly do you fill in the right-hand column of your SmartNotes using the prompts in the left column? Experts say that when taking notes it is best to use short phrases, written in your own words, to describe what is most important to know about the word in the cue column. Include only the most essential information. Your brain will notice that the most important ideas are given more space in the notes column. If you see more space in the notes column this should alert you to the relative importance of the concept you are studying. Many future hair designers have wonderful spatial intelligence. The design of your Study Guide encourages you to put that spatial intelligence to work learning the content you are studying. These notes do not need to make sense to anyone but yourself. If they help you learn and remember this material, they are indeed SmartNotes because they’re helping to make you smarter! By translating the ideas of the chapter into your own words and images, you are actively processing the material. You are making sense of what you are learning. You are actually rewriting your textbook in ways that make sense to you. Copying answers word for word from your textbook is not recommended. Copying answers in someone else’s words usually makes them more difficult to remember. SmartNotes contain a running total of all you are learning about a particular idea. Simply completing this section guarantees that you are on the right track to learning the most important ideas. SmartNotes also provide a ready-made personal outline for connecting important ideas and building the references you will need to deepen your understanding of the material to be learned.

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MINDFRAME 3: CONNECTING Successfully NAMING what you are learning lays the foundation for making connections of all kinds. Your CONNECTING skill rapidly increases your ability to learn and retain what you learn. Sometimes in your Study Guide, CONNECTING activities are inserted within the SmartNotes. Other times they are placed after your SmartNotes. The most creative learners are energized by novelty. They use creative expressions to “jump start” their thinking. For that reason, you will see many different kinds of exercises included as connectors. An excellent way for your brain to make connections is by building Thinking Maps. Thinking Maps create pictures of what you know using shapes, patterns, words, doodles, connections of all kinds. Once again your spatial intelligence has a chance to shine. Thinking Maps make your thoughts visible so that you can think about them in different ways. They promote discussion and help you explore specific topics in creative and organized ways. You can use them as “roadmaps” to deeper understanding. Because they tap into your ability to create relationships among the concepts you are learning, Thinking Maps are powerful memory joggers. Once you can picture how words and ideas fit together, you will remember them more easily. Thinking Maps appeal to the creative side of your intellect as well as to your spatial intelligence. For this reason, they are usually enjoyable for students who are studying to be designers and cosmetologists. These maps of colors, pictures and symbols, when coupled with words, create powerful associations in your brain that will ensure better understanding and recall. You’re probably wondering: How do I make a Thinking Map? First… Start with a topic and circle it in the center of your paper.

E L E C t r IC It Y

T hi N kiN G MA p

Then… Add branches to hold key subtopics. Gather subtopics from your memory, your SmartNotes, the PLAN or from the Jump Start Box of terms and ideas on each Thinking Map page. Branches can also be categories such as who, what, where, when, how or why.

Now that you have filled in your smartNotes for “Electricity,” create a thinking map to help yourself make sense of how your smartNotes fit together. use some or all of the words in the jump start box as well as your own words and pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this chapter to each other. be creative!

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electricity

Next… Use the words in the Jump Start Box to explore all the possible links you can create. If you have questions about any words, you may also refer to the Glossary at the end of your Study Guide. Finally… Share and compare. Let others see your map and gain ideas and connections from you. Add to your map realizations you have while looking at the map of someone else. Shared knowledge makes each person better.

jump start box CirCUiT FUSE LOCAL ShOCk ELECT riCiT Y vOLT ThEr MAL G ENErAL ELECT riFiCATiON wATT OvErLOAD iNG 3-wirE SYST EM

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G ENErAL ShOCk ShOrT CirCUiT SOUrCE MEChANiCAL hE ATiNG EFFECTS LiGhT ThErApY OhM hE AT CirCUiT b rE AkEr COMb iNATiON G ALvANiC

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AM p D irECT App LiC ATiO N ELECTrOThErApY FArADiC LOA D Op EN CirCUiT ELECTrO ChEM iCAL EFFECTS CUrrENT bATTE rY T ESL A

iNSUL ATO rS MEC hANiCAL Or MAGNETiC EFFECTS GENErATO r iND irECT A ppLiC ATiO N FOrCE Si NUSOiDA L CO ND UCTOrS GrO UNDiNG w irE

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As you follow and intermingle these steps, make sure that you personalize your map with your style. Use more than two colors. Doodle. Vary size and shape for effect. Be creative. Your map can continue to grow in extent and interrelationships. You can always add more insights as you discover them. There is no single, correct way to build a Thinking Map. In fact, each Thinking Map you make for this Study Guide will probably be different from the others. You are not making carbon copies. You are creating original images of your growing understanding of a topic. S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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MINDFRAME 4: SELF-CHECKING The connections you are making need to stand up to scrutiny, your own first of all. They need to be challenged for accuracy and depth. In the past, you may have regarded that as the job of someone like a teacher or outsider. No longer. That’s what your own brain does for you during SELF-CHECKING. Your brain actually doubles back on itself and asks the question: How well am I relating to this new material? Do I know it well enough to advance to the next step in my education and professional development? The more skilled you become at SELF-CHECKING, the more prepared you will be to learn the rest of the information in the chapter. It offers a diagnostic check midway through a chapter to validate and reinforce to yourself that you really are learning, that much of what you need to know is already in place. SELF-CHECKING allows you to tell yourself you’re doing fine, to give yourself a pat on the back. It is also a quick reminder to go back and pick up anything you missed along the way. The better a student you become, the more you will self-check automatically. You will know that before you move forward you need to pause and check your location. You pause to pay attention to certain areas of the text you might ordinarily skip. Remember what I said earlier about ways of learning you avoid? Your natural learning style tends to skip what it considers unpleasant. SELF-CHECKING cues your brain about possible gaps that may exist and gives you time to fill those gaps with new learning. In this Study Guide, your SELF-CHECKING opportunity takes the form of The Challenge. You are encouraged to review your Study Guide before completing The Challenge. The questions represent the most basic ideas in the chapter. You should expect to get at least 80% of these answers correct before you continue on with your work in the rest of the Study Guide. If you find The Challenge questions too difficult, take time to return to your textbook and your SmartNotes and re-learn the material. You may also wish to review with someone else or approach your teacher for extra help and suggestions. How do you know exactly which answers you have correct? Following every Challenge is a Memory Box, a self-monitoring activity designed to provide you with immediate feedback about your progress. Here’s what it looks like: Here are its parts. First you use the page references to look up the answers in your textbook. Then check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect ones. Next, using the Know Chart, record the correct answers in the I Know column. Correct the incorrect answers and record the corrected response in the I Need to Study column. In this way, you can monitor your progress and clearly determine what you need to study to become more successful.

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MINDFRAME 5: APPLYING Here is your long-awaited chance to put your knowledge into action. Many of my finest students feel at their best when they are actually doing something. After all, you dream of being a cosmetologist because you sense a personal talent for doing creative work with hair, skin and nails. There are several different learning exercises in the APPLYING sections of your Study Guide. Learning exercises in this MINDFRAME are Talking Points, Show You Know and the Rubrics. SmartNotes and Thinking Maps give you lots to talk about with others. Experts tell us that we really don’t “personalize” what we learn until we express it. Part of your reputation as a stylist will rest on your ability to talk clearly and confidently with your clients. That’s why Talking Points are part of your Guide – to encourage you to talk about what you know and how you know it. Talking out your ideas is a great way to discover your comfort level with the information. It is another concrete way to monitor your progress and build your skills. In order to refine your communication skills, you need practice in a nonthreatening environment. In your Study Guide, each Talking Point is placed next to a miniature ‘card,’ representing an index card. On it you can jot down your key points. You may choose to transfer some Talking Points to real cards and use the cards to role play actual conversations. These practice conversations can be shared with a friend, a parent, classmate or anyone who will listen. The goal of the activity is to learn to explain and communicate your ideas with poise and confidence. Many chapters have a Show You Know project designed to give you the opportunity to be creative and expressive. These activities will reinforce to you that you really do understand and can apply what you are learning. If you devote some time and energy to them, you will begin to realize how smart you really are. Each Show You Know is matched to specific professional standards in the cosmetology industry. By completing each one you will gain valuable exposure to our professional standards and have fun demonstrating that you can apply what you are learning. In all the practical chapters, your central way of APPLYING what you learn will be through practicing the procedures for that skill. Each procedure has its own evaluation form called a RUBRIC. The word RUBRIC translates as “something written in red” from the Latin word for red or red chalk. It means simply a set of standardized directions. Why do you think important directions might be written in red? In your Study Guide, a RUBRIC is a self-assessment tool that will help you gauge your level of performance. It is designed to compare your skill and technique to industry standards. On the following page is a sample RUBRIC. Look at the page and see what you can learn immediately about how the RUBRICS are set up. You see under the directions the name of the procedure you will be practicing followed by the industry standard to which it relates. Then you see a bulleted list of steps under “Preparation,” “Procedure” and “Completion.” Each bulleted item is followed by three boxes, Levels 1, 2 and 3. For each RUBRIC form you complete, you will be asked to check for each item your level of accomplishment at that time. S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Sculptured Nails Industry Standard – to meet entry level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide and conduct basic manicure and pedicure services in a safe environment, free from disease.

Preparation •• Clean nail table; place fresh soaking lotion and disinfected nail

implements on nail table; review and arrange products in order of usual use

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Wash and sanitize hands; perform visual analysis; remove nail polish







•• Perform thorough hand and nail examination and consultation







•• File free edge; buff surface of nail lightly; remove filing residue







•• Apply dehydrant; apply nail form; apply primer if directed







•• Measure out required amount of acrylic powder; form bead on side of brush













•• Define shape and length of free edge







•• Create second acrylic bead; place second bead in middle section (zone 2); pat, press and stroke acrylic into place













•• Apply fourth bead (optional)







•• Remove form; file and buff; remove nail dust













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Apply acrylic bead to form to create free edge (zone 1); rotate brush; pat and press toward edges of nail form

•• Place smallest bead just below cuticle (zone 3); pat, press and stroke acrylic down to base of nail

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

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Percentage = student score / highest possible score

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TOTAL POINTS = %

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Then you see a bulleted list of steps under “Preparation,” “Procedure” and “Completion.” Each bulleted item is followed by three green boxes, Levels 1, 2 and 3. For each RUBRIC form you complete, you will be asked to check for each item your level of accomplishment at that time. Level 1 means you’re still “In Progress.”



You complete the task with assistance and/or prompting. You complete the task with inconsistent quality. You perform the task with several errors evident in technique. You describe the technique with vague understanding.

Level 2 means you’re “Getting Better.”



You complete the task alone. You complete the task approaching the industry standard. You perform the task with occasional errors evident in technique. You describe the technique with prompting.

Level 3 means you’ve reached “Entry-Level Proficiency” for the beginning stylist.



You complete the task alone. You complete the task and meet the industry standard described in the text. You perform the task with very few errors evident in technique. You communicate and reflect upon the technique to others. You complete the entire procedure in accordance with required timing.

Next to the boxes is a line on which you can jot down some area in which you wish to improve. Finally, when you are ready, you can ask your teacher to complete a RUBRIC form for you. The teacher will assess your level of competence and place a 1, 2 or 3 in each “Teacher Assessment” box, total your score and determine your percentage for that procedure. As you use the RUBRIC, remember that some tasks will be easier for you than others. On these tasks you will achieve “Entry Level Proficiency” sooner. For more difficult tasks, your RUBRIC – no matter in what color you write it – will remind you of where you need to practice your technique.

MINDFRAME 6: SELF-TESTING Your Study Guide is designed to take the mystery and fear out of tests. Experts remind us that SELF-TESTING, actually practicing in a test-like format, builds confidence and reduces test anxiety. If you practice enough by testing yourself, your licensure exam will not seem as threatening. The activity designed for SELF-TESTING is called a Brain Conditioner. The Brain Conditioner is a test-event designed to simulate your certification test.

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ST U DY

G UID E

OVERVIEW

Practice really does make perfect. If you practice the actual test-event, you will learn many valuable things like: • How to relax enough to deal with test anxiety • How to skip hard questions until later • How to space your energy and brainpower over the entire test so that you have as much energy at the end of the test as you had at the beginning • How to avoid discouragement if you don’t know every answer • How to read each question calmly and understand what it is asking • How to stay in a flow state (a positive place) as long as you can Although the Brain Conditioner is an actual test event, it is also a learning activity. For that reason, you should use your Memory Box just as you did after The Challenge to gather information you still need to review a bit more.

MINDFRAME 7: JOURNALING True learning is a deeply personal experience. It engages the person you are and begins your transformation into the person you wish to become. As this growth is happening in you, you need some kind of record of what is going on with your feelings as well as in your thinking. SmartNotes and other activities here in the Guide give you records of your thinking. This final MINDFRAME, JOURNALING, offers the opportunity to honor what you are feeling and realizing and questioning at levels even deeper than thought.

1

2

3

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5

6

7

At the end of each chapter, it is important to jot down your feelings about what you have just studied. Especially important to note are things that surprised you, learning tasks that you found difficult and how you dealt with those difficulties. Also helpful to record are suggestions you received from friends or others that might help you enjoy learning more. You will be surprised how your comments change as you go through the chapters of your Salon Fundamentals Textbook, giving your energy to each MINDFRAME in its turn. Now you have an overview of this entire book, your book, the place where the knowledge of the experts takes on personal meaning. Everyone’s textbook is identical. Everyone’s Study Guide, if done correctly, will be unique. Your mind will frame the material to suit your specific learning preferences and needs. You can make your Study Guide a real part of your professional journey by adding to it and improving it every day. If you do, new possibilities for creativity and opportunity will appear in your work. As you improve your Study Guide, you improve yourself. The Study Guide is designed to be a developing learning guide, a portfolio, of what you can do and your commitment to your future. As you learn to grow what you know, grow it with passion, integrity and commitment. 10

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T

C HA PTER 1

PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

1

VALUE Professional development will enable you to improve your health, professional status and positive relationships with clients and co-workers.

MAIN IDEA A Healthy Body and Mind + Effective Communication + Positive Human Relations = SUCCESS

PLAN

1 .1 H E A LTHY BODY A N D MIN D

Rest and R elaxation E xerc ise Nutrition H ygiene I mage

1 . 2 E F FE CTIVE COMMU N ICATION

Nonverbal Communic ation Verbal Communic ation

1 . 3 H U MA N R E L ATION S

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Personality Teamwork E thic s

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sm a r tN OT ES 1.1 HE ALT HY BODY AN D M I N D Rest and Relaxation

p age s 2 5 - 2 7

Necessary for a healthy, happy life 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

Exercise

Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs

Nutrition

Hygiene

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention for certain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Science that deals with healthful living

Record Your Week MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

SUNDAY

Hours of sleep per night How much exercise Calories burned (Refer to Salon Fundamentals Cosmetology Coursebook page 26)

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P UB LIC HYG IE NE

P E R SONA L HYGIENE

Helps preserve the

Individual system for

health of the community

maintaining cleanliness and health

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T

sm a r tN OT ES 1.1 HE ALT HY BODY AN D M I N D

p age s 2 7- 3 0

P rimary Health Hazards

ALERT

1

• Impure air ventilation • Inadequate

lighting

• Improper disinfection practices • Improper

Oral Hygiene

Bad breath =

storage

or use of food

halitosis

Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Reducing Body Odor

Image

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

` Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful

hair

Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy, glowing skin

Tips

Dress for Success

Posture Tips

Foundation should always match skin with lights – Contouring

broadens

with darks – Contouring

diminishes

Clothing must be clean, shoes

tone

polished

Dress well

posture

Good

enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

• Use height adjustments on

chairs

• Keep head up, chin level, shoulders

relaxed

• When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 1.1 HE ALT HY BODY AN D M I N D Ergonomics

p age s 3 1 - 3 3

Ergonomics is the science that looks at how you do your work, what body movements, positions, tools, etc., you use and the effect it has on your body.

Prevent Neck and Back Problems

• Work with

back

straight

• Use freestanding sink • Adjust

height

• Avoid high

heels

of chair • Stand on foot stool

• Tilt client’s head • Use tilted

• Place one foot up



• Work with client standing (if long hair)

seat or wedge

• Bend knees slightly

Prevent Foot and Leg Problems

• Don’t

stand for a long time • Use • cushioned

floor mat

Raise feet on stool during break • Avoid • shoes with high • • Wear comfortable, rubber-soled shoes • Use shock-absorbing • Use

support

heels

or

pointed toes

inserts

hose/socks

• Hydraulic chairs should adjust at least

5

inches

Prevent Hand and Wrist Problems



• Swivel chair



• • Adjust

• Tilt client’s head



• • Use procedural techniques to keep

•

Use

sharp

shears, well-oiled

height

wrist

of chair

straight

• Twirl handles • Manicure stations – use

Prevent Shoulder Problems

• Adust

height

arm

rests

of chair

• Swivel chair • Tilt client’s • Hold

tools

head so you don’t have to raise arms

• When doing nails have client extend arm • Use arm rest

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T

sm a r tN OT ES 1 .2 EFFECT IV E COMM U N I C ATI ON Communication

Nonverbal Communication

Every time you exchange ideas, thoughts or feelings with someone

Grammar

1

Messages are exchanged without speaking

body language



Verbal Communication

p age s 3 4 - 37

meaning

Smiling

•

Approval

Nodding

•

Agreement

Hand Shake

•

Self-Confidence

Leaning Forward

•

Interested

Arms Crossed on Chest

•

Disapproval

The tone or inflection of your voice, level and rate of speech all play an important role

Your language, if used correctly, can clearly communicate all your thoughts and needs. If used incorrectly communication may be impaired.

Keys to Effective Two-Way Communication

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2

3

4

5

• Present a pleasant greeting • Use tact (say proper thing without being offensive) • Express ideas clearly • Define purpose of your communication

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 .2 EFFECT IV E COM MU N I C ATI ON Keys to Effective Two-Way Communication (Cont’d)

p a ge 37

• Know the importance of your ideas • Be aware of your environment • Watch your overtones • Consult with others when necessary • Be a good listener

* Listening is the important key to good communication

1 .3 HUM AN REL AT IO N S Personality

p age s 3 8 - 42

• Human relations is getting along with others • Defined as the outward reflection of your inner feelings, thoughts,

attitudes and values

positiv e personality traits

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SFC_TSG_CH01.indd 16

• Good sense of humor

• Friendliness

• Positive attitude

• Vitality

• Considerate nature

• Good manners

• Emotional control

• Flexibility

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T

sm a r tN OT ES 1 .3 HUM AN REL ATI ON S Teamwork

p age s 42 - 4 3

The existence of a harmonious environment depends heavily on • Keeping your workstation

1

, with all your tools in place, is usually

set forth by a regulating agency

• The key words for

Ethics

clean

teamwork

teamwork

are consideration and cooperation

As your personality develops, you establish your own personal system of moral principles and values, which become known as your personal

ethics.

Give Examples Of The Following: Respect

If someone wants privacy – give it to him or her

Courtesy

Show clients your best

Eagerness To Learn

Don’t

Trustworthiness

SFC_TSG_CH01.indd 17

5

client outside of salon

If you nip a client – follow the

Pride In Your Profession

4

service

A co-worker has asked you to cover – don’t let him or her down

Cleanliness And Safety

3

support

Never lie to get your own way

Loyalty

2

and behavior

If a co-worker has a new technique to show – watch and learn and show

Honesty

1

manners

proper

safety and blood-spill procedures

Show your clients you have pride by doing the best job that you possibly can

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7

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1

thin k ing map Now that you have filled in your SmartNotes for “Professional Development,” create a Thinking Map to help yourself make sense of how your SmartNotes fit together. Use some or all of the words in the Jump Start Box as well as your own words and pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this chapter to each other. Be creative!

PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

jump start box

18

REST

EXERCISE

CONTOURING

NONVERBAL

CALORIES

RDA

PERSONALITY

PUBLIC HYGIENE

PERSONAL HYGIENE

GROOMING

VERBAL

PROFESSIONAL PRIDE

DARK

POSTURE

ENERGY

LIGHTING

LANGUAGE

POSITIVE ATTITUDE

RESPECT

ETHICS

NUTRITION

LIGHT

VENTILATION

HYGIENE

COMMUNICATION

UNIT 1 THEORY ESSENTIALS

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

• Get enough sleep - 6 to 8 hours a night



• Exercise and eat right



• Keep K yourself out of stressful situations



• A smile



• Nodding yes



• Clapping

Using your own words, describe 3 things you can do to ensure a healthy body and mind.

1

List 3 nonverbal behaviors you observe in clients that indicate satisfaction or approval.

Design a bumper sticker or banner that expresses your personal code of ethics. Compare your code with others.

See someone without a smile, give them one of yours!

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

Establishing routines to maintain a healthy body and mind is the first step toward

2.

Dedication to proper nutrition, image and hygiene are important steps that will ensure a healthy body and mind.



Name two other areas that will aid in developing a healthy body and mind.

3.

TRUE FALSE Most people need six to eight hours of sleep or they become fatigued and cannot function properly.

4.

The practice of public hygiene is important because it helps to preserve the health of the

5.

How you do your work, what body movements, positions, tools and equipment you should use and the effect all these things



have on you and your client’s health and comfort is the science called

6.

The exchange of thoughts and information through conversation or writing is defined as

7.

Appearance, posture and facial expression would be examples of

8.

TRUE FALSE Religion and politics are acceptable topics of discussion between a cosmetologist and a client.

9.

The psychology of getting along with others is referred to as

10.

The outward reflection of your inner feelings, thoughts, attitudes and values is referred to as your

1

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3

4

5

6

7

.

.

.

communication.

. .

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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1

MEMORY BOX

know chart

1. PAGE 25



GOT IT NOT YET

2. PAGE 25



GOT IT NOT YET

1.

professional

3. PAGE 25



GOT IT NOT YET



development

4. PAGE 27



GOT IT NOT YET

2.

rest, exercise

5. PAGE 31



GOT IT NOT YET

3.

TRUE

4.

community

6. PAGE 34



GOT IT NOT YET

5.

ergonomics

7. PAGE 34



GOT IT NOT YET

6.

communication

8. PAGE 38



GOT IT NOT YET

7.

nonverbal False

9. PAGE 38

GOT IT NOT YET

8.



9.

human relations



GOT IT NOT YET

10.

personality

10. PAGE 38

I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

SHOW YOU KNOW... Select a person you know that models or represents lifelong learning and health and well-being. In other words, this person is a true role model. Indicators of such performance might include:

• Participating in industry-related shows and educational seminars



• Subscribing to cosmetology journals and professional organizations



• Taking appropriate measures to protect personal health

The work styles of this person might be described using some of the following words or phrases:

Achiever

Social orientation

Persistent



Adaptable/Flexible

Shows initiative

Attentive to detail



Exhibits leadership

Independent

Cooperative



Innovative

Shows concern

Person

Attach picture (or sketch) of this person.

Role-model because...

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T

KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 1, Professional Development. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build selfconfidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

1 List the recommended

KNOW

number of hours to sleep at night.

Compare personal

Comprehend

hygiene to public hygiene.

Describe a tip for

Apply

enhancing a narrow

nonverbal messages

Analyze

and identify what each message communicates:

Synthesize

SFC_TSG_CH01.indd 21

universal sign of approval Smile Person standing straight with squared shoulders, head held high communicates self-confidence Bowed shoulders and sloping body posture conveys uncertainty

be avoided with clients.

Defend what a “Code

Adherence to a professional code of ethics reflects your personal integrity.

discussion that should

Evaluate 3

A tip for enhancing a narrow forehead is to visually broaden the forehead by applying lighter cosmetic shades along the hairline.

Topics of discussion that should be avoided with clients include religion, politics, personal problems, other client’s behavior, staff or competitor’s workmanship and information given to you in confidence.

Formulate the topics of

2

When comparing personal hygiene to public hygiene, personal hygiene is maintaining your individual cleanliness and health; public hygiene refers to the health of a community.

forehead.

Analyze the following

1

The recommended number of hours to sleep is 6 to 8 hours per night.

of Professional Ethics” states about you.

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5

6

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CHAP TER

1

BR AIN BUILD ER

Questions help us think. Write a challenging question about four of the important words or phrases below and be prepared to answer it. (The following stems generate the most thought-provoking questions: Why does? Why are? What if? How would? Try them!) Then try your questions out on your friends. How well can they answer them?

• • • • • • •

Cosmetology Professional Development Hygiene Ergonomics Nonverbal Communication Personality Code Of Ethics

putting your heads together FIRST... THE GOAL OF THIS ACTIVITY IS TO CLARIFY YOUR IDEAS BY WORKING TOGETHER IN SMALL GROUPS. COMPLETE THE FOLLOWING SHORT-ANSWER QUESTIONS WITH A PARTNER OR IN A SMALL GROUP...

THEN... DISCUSS YOUR ANSWERS... FINALLY... LOOK UP EACH ANSWER IN YOUR TEXTBOOK, USING THE PAGE REFERENCE TO THE LEFT, TO SEE IF YOU ARE CORRECT. MAKE CORRECTIONS OR ADDITIONS AS NECESSARY.

PAGE 24 1. The art and science of beauty care is known as

cosmetology worry

PAGE 25 2. The two emotions that can be injurious to your health are fear and .

PAGE 27 3. Hygiene is the science that deals with

.

healthful

protect muscles PAGE 30 4. Good posture will (a) (c) present an attractive image .

living

.

reduce physical fatigue

, (b)

shaking a pointed finger PAGE 35 5. List 3 examples of nonverbal communication: (1) nodding in agreement arms folded across chest (2) , (3)

,

, .

PAGES 36-37 6. Describe behaviors of a good communicator: Always uses tact and is an excellent listener

PAGE 38 7. Personality is defined as the

.

outward reflection of feelings, thoughts, attitudes and values.



22

PAGE 42 8. Ethical conduct is

UNIT 1 THEORY ESSENTIALS

SFC_TSG_CH01.indd 22

. knowing the difference between right and wrong

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T



BRAIN CO ND IT IO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. The art and science of beauty care is defined as: a. charisma b. personal hygiene

c. cosmetology

d. ethical conduct

2. How many hours of sleep do most people need to function properly? a. 1 to 2 hours b. 3 to 4 hours c. 6 to 8 hours

1

d. 9 to 12 hours

3. Which of the following activities is NOT a recommended way to relax and get away from it all? a. reading a book b. listening to music c. going for a walk d. sleeping 1 to 2 hours a day 4. What will make you feel, look and work better? a. skipping lunch b. sleeping 1 to 2 hours a day c. drinking coffee d. a regular exercise program 5. Which of the following activities helps stimulate blood circulation in your body? a. watching TV b. reading a good book c. listening to music

d. exercise

6. Worry is an emotion that could have which of the following effects? a. vitalize mental health b. injurious to mental health c. tones muscles d. stimulates exercise 7. Which of the following items is one of the three energy nutrients almost all foods contain? a. fats b. salt c. sugar d. calories 8. The energy contained in food is measured in: a. degrees b. protein content

c. calories

d. fat content

9. The energy in food can be stored in the body as: a. fat b. protein

c. carbohydrates

d. vitamins

10. The science that deals with healthful living is called: a. hygiene b. nutrition

c. ergonomics

d. mental health

11. The practice of public hygiene covers all of the following health issues EXCEPT: a. impure air b. bad breath c. poor ventilation

d. improper use of food

12. Bathing regularly with soap, using deodorant and washing clothes are examples of: a. oral hygiene b. public sanitation c. personal hygiene

d. excessive grooming

13. Halitosis is the technical term for: a. poor posture b. bad breath

d. poor public hygiene

c. poor nutrition

14. Healthy skin is dependent on all of the following health techniques EXCEPT: a. rest b. exercise c. good nutrition

d. lack of sleep

15. Which of the following statements is true about contouring? a. light colors broaden b. light colors narrow c. dark colors broaden d. light colors can narrow or broaden

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1

16. An overly wide jaw can be visually narrowed by applying: a. lighter contour creme on the inner areas of the jaw b. lighter contour creme on the outer areas of the jawline c. darker contour creme on the outer areas of the jawline d. lighter contour creme around the lips 17. What type of shoes should be worn to reduce the fatigue from standing all day? a. old b. tennis c. high-heeled

d. low, broad-heeled

18. A foot doctor is called a: a. psychologist b. gynecologist

c. pediatrician

d. podiatrist

19. Maintaining good posture and moving properly will: a. present an attractive image c. cause injury

b. cause fatigue d. hurt your feet

20. All of the following activities can help prevent neck and back strain EXCEPT: a. working with the back straight b.reaching overhead for supplies c. using freestanding shampoo bowls d. adjusting the height of the client’s chair 21. All of the following movements cause carpal tunnel EXCEPT: a. bending your wrist a lot b. gripping with force c. repeating a motion over and over d. using sharp shears 22. Facial expressions, posture and poise are examples of: a. hygiene c. public hygiene

b. verbal communication d. nonverbal communication

23. The exchange of thoughts, ideas or feelings with someone is called: a. public relations b. personality c. communication

d. language

24. To be a good communicator, you also have to be: a. loud b. a good listener

d. able to stretch the truth

c. a good story teller

25. An outward reflection of your feelings, thoughts, attitudes and nature defines your: a. hygiene b. posture c. personality d. sense of humor 26. When having a two-way conversation with a client, it is best to focus your conversation on: a. controversial topics b. the weather c. your client’s lifestyle and salon-related needs d. famous personalities 27. The psychology of getting along with others is called: a. communication b. human relations

c. philosophy

d. attitude

28. Personal ethics include the following attributes EXCEPT: a. values b. personality c. moral principles

d. negative attitude

29. Following a regulating agency’s requirement to keep your workspace uncluttered is: a. almost impossible to do b. disrespectful toward other co-workers c. also visually appealing to the overall atmosphere of the workstation d. something you should do only because it’s a rule 30. Proper conduct in relationships with your employer, co-workers and clients is known as: a. personal hygiene b. professional ethics c. professional connecting d. economics

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PROFESS IONAL

D EVELO P M EN T

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines below, jot down topics that you still need to review.

1.

page 24



9.

page 26

17.

page 29

25.

page 38



2.

page 25

10.

page 27

18.

page 29

26.

page 38



3.

page 25

11.

page 27

19.

page 30

27.

page 38



4.

page 25

12.

page 27

20.

page 31

28.

page 42



5.

page 25

13.

page 27

21.

page 32

29.

page 42



6.

page 25

14.

page 28

22.

page 34

30.

page 43



7.

page 26

15.

page 29

23.

page 34



8.

page 26

16.

page 29

24.

page 37

notes to myself

1

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Professional Development:

Lessons learned • Establishing routines to maintain a healthy body and mind puts you on the right track toward attaining your professional goals. • E ffective communication reflects your professionalism and includes both verbal and nonverbal messages. • Positive human relations are influenced by personality, teamwork and ethical conduct.

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CHAP TER

2

C HA PTER 2

SALON ECOLOGY VALUE Your understanding of Salon Ecology will help you protect your clients and yourself from the unnecessary spread of infectious diseases.

MAIN IDEA Microbiology + Infection Control + First-Aid Procedures = A Healthy and Safe Environment

PLAN

2 .1 M ICROBIOLOGY

B a c teria G rowth of Bac teria Viruses E xternal Parasites I nfec tion I m munity

2 . 2 IN F E CTION CON TROL

S a nitation Disinfec tion Sterilization I nfec tion Control Guidelines

2 . 3 F IR ST A ID

26

UNIT 1 THEORY ESSENTIALS

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B l eeding and Wounds B urns C hoking Fa inting E ye Injury

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S ALO N

ECO LO GY

sm a r tN OT ES 2 .1 M ICROBIOLOGY Bacteria

p age s 47- 4 8

One-celled microorganisms; germs; microbes

Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection practices



Improper storage or use of food

Bad breath = halitosis

2

DI F F EREN C ES

Maintaining healthy teeth andEkeeping NONPAT HOG NIC breath fresh

• regularly Harmless Bathe using soap and use deodorant

PAT HOG E NIC



• Live everywhere



• Cause of infection and disease



• Cause decay of refuse



• Saprophytes – live on dead matter

of allhealthy bacteria • care70% – clean, Hair hair = beautiful hair

• Spread easily distinct shapes • Have

Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Pathogenic Bacteria Cocci

Round-shaped cells Foundation should always match skin tone

Staphylococci

Contouring Pus-forming – found in boils with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Streptococci Diplococci



Pus-forming – cause strep throat

Clothing Growmust in pairs – cause pneumonia be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Bacilli Spirilla

1

SFC_TSG_Ch02.indd 27

2

3

4

5



Most common – cause fever, rod-shaped

 Spiraled, shaped – cause highly contagious diseases such as Good posture corkscrew enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue syphilis, Use height cholera adjustments and lymeondisease chairs

Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

6

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CHAP TER

2

ACTI VI T Y What if the terms in pathogenic bacteria were given really creative, fun names? Would you be able to recognize them? Listed below is a list of “alias” names and their descriptions. See if you can determine the term that matches their identity or “alias,” and draw a picture of it.

My name is Curly. I am very “coiled” and curvy! My real name is

Spirilla

.

My name is Phyl. I hang out with a “bunch” of guys and sometimes we “boil” up lots of trouble. My real name is

Staphylococci .

My name is Pearl. I come from a long “chain” of hot oysters, so hot we bring a “fever”! My real name is

Streptococci

.

Our names are Arnold and Danny. We are a “pair” and when we are around everyone starts coughing! Our real name is

Diplococci

.

My name is Rodney. I’m a tough guy with lots of muscle. I have the power to lock your jaw! My real name is

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Bacilli

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sm a r tN OT ES 2 .1 M ICROBIOLOGY Growth of Bacteria

p age s 4 9 - 5 0



Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection practices



Improper storage or use of food

2

DI F F EREN C ES

ACT IV E

INACT IV E

Bad breath = halitosis

Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

• Grow rapidly





• Dark, damp, dirty



Create using two cells • regularly Bathe soap(mitosis) and use deodorant

• 16 mil in 12 hours



• Condition unfavorable = • Form spores not hurt by



Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

no growth disinfectant, cold or heat

• Conditions good - they become active

Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Movement of Bacteria

Bacilli and Spirilla have flagella (cilia)

Viruses

Smaller than bacteria; cause familiar diseases: cold, measles, hepatitis, HIV HBV - Human B; affects liver; inoculation is often recommended Foundation shouldHepatitis always match skin tone for PSWs with lights – broadens Contouring Contouring with darks – diminishes

External Parasites

HIV and AIDS; affects natural immunity; spread when body fluids from infected individual are absorbed into the bloodstream of uninfected individual Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

PARASITIC FUNGI

PA R A SIT IC M ITES

Parasiticenhances fungi are molds and yeast Parasitic mites are insects Good posture your physical well-being and reduces physical fatiguethat cause Louse embryo

Hair

that Use height contagious adjustments on chairs produce diseases such asKeep head up, level, shoulders ringworm, nailchin fungus and non- relaxed

contagious disease such as scabies, itch mites, or head lice

contagious When sitting, keepsuch kneesastogether, conditions dandruff feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 2 .1 MICROBIOLOGY Infection

Local General Asymptomatic Carrier

Immunity

p ages 5 0 - 52

Caused Necessary by for pathogenic a healthy,bacteria happy or lifeviruses entering body and multiplying Contagious (communicable) = can transmit through touch or air Bloodborne - carried throughfatigue blood 6-8 hours ofpathogens sleep necessary to prevent

Small area Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Whole body Stimulates blood circulation Carries Encourages disease proper - no functioning signs, that’s why of organs universal precautions should be used

Body can destroy infectious agents that enter the body Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended NAT URDietary A L Allowance PA SSIV E

Science that with healthful living • Partially deals inherited

produces white blood cells • Body

• Acquired • Shot stimulates body’s immune

• Antitoxins to fight



response, e.g. (inoculation for

protects • Skin



polio or flu)

2 .2 INFECT ION CON TROL Infection Control

p age s 52 - 59

Efforts to prevent the spread of disease and kill certain or all microbes Efficacy = effectiveness

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INFECTION CONTROL PYRAMID



ER

DISINFECTION:

POW

______________________________ KILLS: HIV and HBV

2

NG

BLOODBORNE PATHOGEN DISINFECTION:

more

______________________________ KILLS: All microbes

KILLI

STERILIZATION:

less

KILLS: Certain bacteria ______________________________

PREVENTS: Growth of microorganisms ______________________________

ANTISEPTIC:

SANITATION:

REMOVES: Dirt ______________________________

K EY TER MS Antiseptic: Prevents growth of microorganisms Bloodborne Pathogen Disinfection: Required disinfection for all implements that come in contact with blood or body fluids; requires efficacy against HIV and HBV Broad Spectrum (hospital-grade): Group of disinfectants that kill bacteria, viruses, fungi and pseudomonas Efficacy Label: Informs disinfectant user on what the product

MATCH ING Draw a line from the initials to the correct match.

OSHA

Key info on product ingredients

MSDS

Department of Labor regulatory agency

EPA

Approves efficacy of products

is “effective in fighting against”

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sm a r tN OT ES 2 .3 FIRST AID

p age s 6 0 - 61 Write the correct first-aid procedures in sequential order

Bleeding and Wounds

Necessary for a healthy, happy life Step  1 Place clean cloth or gauze and gloved hand over wound. Apply firm pressure five minutes. 6-8 hours of sleepfornecessary to prevent fatigue Step 2 Call 911 Step 3 Elevate injured arm or leg above level of victim’s heart if practical.

Never use a tourniquet unless you cannot control the bleeding. Have emergency personnel check victim for shock if necessary.

Regular exercisebleeding routine stops, will help youcloth look with and work better–Do not lift the cloth  secure a bandage Step 4 When completely to see if bleeding has stopped. Make sure that bandage is not tooblood tight. circulation Stimulates Encourages proper functioning of organs

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

FIRST-AID PROCEDURES

Burns

Science that deals with healthful living

CHE MICA L

HEAT OR ELECTRICAL

1. Rinse away all traces of chemicals

1. If skin is not broken immerse in cool water or gently apply

while moving away any

contaminated clothing



2. Cover burn loosely with clean,

cool compress 2. Do not break a blister if one forms. Do not apply ointments

dry cloth

3.  Refer person to medical personnel

or creams 3. If skin is broken or if burn is severe: - Call 911 - Do not clean - Cover burn

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sm a r tN OT ES 2 .3 FIRST AID

p age s 6 1 - 62

Choking

fist   Step 4 Perform upward thrust by grasping _________________ Impure air ventilation with other hand and pulling it quickly toward you; repeat Inadequate lighting if necessary Improper disinfection practices  Improper Stepstorage 3 Mor of food fist with one hand and place that fist just akeuse a thumbless navel above _________________ and well below the ribs with Bad breath = halitosis thumb and forefinger side toward the victim Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh victim Step 2 Stand behind _________________;  wrap arms around his or her stomach

2

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

talk Step 1 D  etermine if victim can _________________ or cough. If no, have someone call 911 while you do abdominal thrusts Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Fainting

Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Step 1 Lay victim down on _________________ back ; allow plenty of fresh air S tep 2 Reassure victim and _________________ cold compress to face apply Step 3 If victim vomits, roll onto _________________ , keep windpipe clear side Call 911 if victim does not match regainskin consciousness Foundation should always tone

Eye Injury

Contouring with lights – broadens

Contouring with darksFIRST-AID – diminishes

CHE MICA L Clothing must be clean, shoes polished

PROCEDURES CUT, SCRATCH OR EMBEDDED OBJECT

Dress well • Place gauze pad or cloth eyelids apart - flush • Hold _______ over both eyes and secure with eyeball with lukewarm water for a bandage 15-30 minutes; don’t let runoff Good posture enhances your physical well-being reduces physical fatigue and • D o not try to remove an flow into the other eye object embedded _______ height chairs • Use Place gauzeadjustments pad or clothonover both • Keep head up, level, shoulders eyes _______ andchin secure with bandagerelaxed Get to an eye specialist or emergency room kneesortogether, feet on floor, sit well back in immediately chair • When Get tositting, an eyekeep specialist emergency room immediately

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WORD F IN D

In the word find, circle the words listed below. Words are listed forward, backward and diagonally. Listings that have punctuation or two words are found without punctuation or spacing in the puzzle. How many of these words can you define? CONTAMINATED BACTERICIDAL LOCAL VIRUCIDAL PASSIV E IMMUNITY EFFICACY TOURNIQUET

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MICROBIOLOGY IMMUNE TUBERCULOCIDAL POLLUTANT MSDS HAZARDOUS COMPRESS

SAPROPHYTES ASYMPTOMATIC GENERAL E XHAUST FUNGICIDAL PUNCTURE PROOF EMBEDDED

1

PARASITES PSEUDOMONACIDAL NATURAL IMMUNITY RODENTS NON-CORROSIVE CALIBRATED EPA

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Open sores Unclean hands and implements Coughing or sneezing Common use of drinking cups and towels Use of same implements on infected areas and noninfected areas 6. Unsanitary salon conditions

2 Describe in your own way the most common means of spreading infection.

COVER YOUR NOSE

IF YOU SNEEZE,

Make and explain a creative sign depicting how to prevent the spread of infection.

PLEASE

Disinfect all combs and brushes. Yes, that’s right! Everything anyone touches!

Design and share a poster displaying safety precautions for the salon.

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the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

Keeping the special environment of the salon in balance to guarantee everyone’s well-being involves ______________________________ ______________________________.

2.

The study of small organisms is called ______________________________.

3. The type of bacteria that causes infection and disease and can be found everywhere in our environment is called ______________________________. 4.

The common cold, hepatitis and measles are examples of ______________________________diseases.

5. TRUE FALSE Bacilli are the most common form of bacterial cells and can produce a variety of diseases including tetanus, bacterial influenza and tuberculosis. 6. The term used to describe efforts to prevent the spread of disease and kill certain or all microbes is called ______________________________. 7. What a product will destroy or be effective against is stated on the _______________________ _______________________. 8. TRUE FALSE The 2001 OSHA Bloodborne Pathogens Standard requires the use of an EPA-registered disinfectant with an efficacy against HIV and HBV or tuberculocidal to be used on implements that have accidentally come into contact with blood or body fluids. 9. Laws that most states have enacted to encourage people to help others in emergency situations by providing legal protection are ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________. 10. TRUE FALSE The first step in treating a chemical burn is to rinse away all traces of chemical while moving away any contaminated clothing from the burn area.

MEMORY BOX

know chart



1. page 46



GOT IT NOT YET



2. page 47



GOT IT NOT YET

1.

salon ecology



3. page 47



GOT IT NOT YET

2.

microbiology



4. page 47



GOT IT NOT YET

3.

pathogenic



5. page 48



GOT IT NOT YET

4.

contagious

5.

TRUE



6. page 52



GOT IT NOT YET

6.

infection control



7. page 55-56



GOT IT NOT YET

7.

efficacy label



8. page 56



GOT IT NOT YET

8.

TRUE

9.

Good Samaritan Laws



9. page 60



GOT IT NOT YET

10.

TRUE



10. page 60



GOT IT NOT YET

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I NEED TO STUDY:

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SHOW YOU KNOW...

Relate the information you have reviewed in this chapter to other professional occupations by listing infection control or safety steps that you have observed or are aware of within these professions. Medical Doctor:

Keeps implements in disinfectant, uses paper sheet on beds instead of cloth sheets, gives each patient a new gown,

uses gloves Dentist: Uses gloves, implements are sanitized, uses paper towels instead of cloth, uses a mask to cover nose and mouth while working

2

on patient Chef: Has a poster on how to perform the Heimlich maneuver nearby, wears something on head while preparing food

Find three efficacy labels from products found in your home. List your findings here and discuss these findings with your friends.

Label 1:

Label 2:

Label 3:

KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 2, Salon Ecology. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

KNOW

Define mitosis.

Describe the difference between natural and passive immunity.

Comprehend

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Mitosis is defined as the dividing of a single cell into two new cells. This occurs when the bacteria absorb food and each cell grows in size and then divides.

Natural immunity is a partially inherited, natural resistance to disease where passive immunity is developed through the injection of antigens, such as inoculation for polio, which stimulates the body’s immune response.

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2

Differentiate between sanitation, disinfection and sterilization standards.

Apply

Analyze

• Examine the following brush or comb disinfection procedures noting that there are only 5 of the 6 listed and they are out of order. Arrange them in the correct sequence and fill in the missing procedure. • IMPLements must be nonporous to be disinfected. Using this guiding principle, construct a list of 3 items that are porous and need to be discarded.

Synthesize

Defend the importance of double-bagging all bloodsoiled articles.

Sanitation standards apply to removing dirt to aid in preventing the growth of microbes; disinfection standards require that all tools and implements, including those that have come in contact with blood or body fluids, must be free from a broad spectrum of microbes; sterilization standards mean that all microbes must be killed or destroyed. 1. Remove the brush or comb with forceps, tongs or gloved hands. (5) 2. Wash the brush or comb thoroughly with soap and water to remove any dirt, grease or oil (2) 3. Remove all hair from the brush or comb (1) 4. Store in a disinfected, dry, covered container or cabinet until needed (6) 5. Rinse the brush or comb thoroughly and pat dry to avoid dilution when immersed in disinfectant (3) Immerse the brush or comb completely in disinfecting Missing step: ___________________________________________ solution (4) ___________________________________ Emery boards, cosmetic sponges and orangewood sticks are porous and need to be discarded.

The importance of double-bagging all blood-soiled articles is to prevent contaminating disinfected articles.

BRAIN BUILDER

Questions help us think. Write a challenging question about four of the important words or phrases below and be prepared to answer it. (The following stems generate the most thought-provoking questions: Why does? Why are? What if? How would? Try them!) Then try your questions out on your friends. How well can they answer them?

38



• Bacteriology



• Nonpathogenic Bacteria



• Bloodborne Pathogen Disinfection



• Broad Spectrum Disinfection



• Efficacy Label



• Material Safety Data Sheet

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putting your heads together With a partner or in a small group, quiz each other using the words below. Make notes for future study. Frontal Metacarpals Occipital Nasal Hyoid CONTAMINATED BACTERICIDAL Clavicle LOCALThorax VIRUCIDAL Zygomatic PASSIVE IMMUNITY EFFICACY TOURNIQUET

Phalanges PARASITES RODENTS Cervical Vertebrae EPA Carpals MICROBIOLOGY Temporal IMMUNE TUBERCULOCIDAL POLLUTANT

Lacrimal HAZARDOUS COMPRESS Ulna PSEUDOMONACIDAL Mandible NON-CORROSIVE Maxillae SAPROPHYTES ASYMPTOMATIC GENERAL

Scapula EXHAUST MSDS Humerus FUNGICIDAL Radius PUNCTURE PROOF Parietal EMBEDDED NATURAL IMMUNITY CALIBRATED

2



BRAIN CO ND IT IO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer .

1. Bacteriology is the scientific study of: a. bacteria b. personal hygiene

c. toxins

2. Bacteria are:  a. always infectious c. one-celled microorganisms

b. multi-celled microorganisms d. harmless

d. disease

3. Bacterial cells that are harmless to humans and can even be beneficial are called:  a. nonpathogenic bacteria b. pathogenic bacteria c. viruses d. microbes 4. Which of the following do not produce disease?  a. saprophytes b. staphylococci

c. streptococci

d. diplococci

5. A communicable disease refers to a disease that is easily:  a. vaccinated b. immunized c. not spread from one person to another d. spread from one person to another 6. The common cold, hepatitis, and measles are examples of:  a. beneficial diseases b. harmless diseases c. communicable diseases

d. nonpathogenic diseases

7. Another term that means the same as germ or bacteria is:  a. parasite b. microbe c. mite

d. lice

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8. Pathogenic bacteria are responsible for all of the following EXCEPT:  a. causing disease b. producing toxins c. causing infection

d. causing refuse to decay

9. The most common form of bacterial cells are:  a. bacilli b. spirilla

d. streptococci

c. cocci

10. This type of bacterial cell is a coiled, corkscrew-shaped organism that can cause highly contagious diseases:  a. spirilla b. bacilli c. streptococci d. staphylococci 11. Pus-forming bacterial cells that form grape-like clusters and are present in abscesses are called:  a. staphylococci b. streptococci c. diplococci d. spirilla 12. Which of the following sources does NOT allow bacteria or viruses to enter the body?  a. nose b. mouth c. healthy skin d. broken skin 13. Which of the following phrases describes bacteria?  a. used to control infections c. with three basic shapes

b. always external parasites d. beneficial to your health

14. Which of the following conditions is NOT a disease caused by a virus?  a. mumps b. tuberculosis c. common cold

d. respiratory infection

15. Personal service workers such as nurses, doctors, teachers and cosmetologists may be inoculated against which highly infectious disease?  a. Hepatitis B b. strep throat c. ringworm d. the common cold 16. Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) can be transferred by all of the following sources EXCEPT:  a. blood b. semen c. body fluids d. holding hands 17. Plants or animals that live on or obtain nutrients from another organism are known as:  a. external parasites b. internal parasites c. viruses d. bacteria 18. All of the following are examples of external parasites EXCEPT:  a. molds b. yeasts c. flagella

d. parasitic mites

19. Which of the following conditions would be considered a local infection?  a. septicemia b. rheumatic fever c. pus-filled boil

d. AIDS

20. Universal precautions require you to perform infection control procedures with which clients?  a. all b. sick c. children d. elderly 21. A person who carries a disease-producing bacteria with no recognizable symptoms of the disease is a(n):  a. asymptomatic carrier b. nonpathogenic carrier c. pathogenic carrier d. parasitic carrier 22. What is developed through the injection of antigens that stimulate the body’s immune system?  a. natural immunity b. active immunity c. passive immunity d. parasitic immunity 23. All of the following results are true about natural immunity, EXCEPT:  a. the result of the production of antitoxins b. developed through the injection of antigens c. a partially inherited, natural resistance to disease d. aided when a person’s epidermis remains unbroken 24. Where can the information about what the product is “effective in fighting against” be found?  a. efficacy label b. name c. directions d. OSHA comments

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25. All of the following categories describe infection control EXCEPT:  a. immunity b. disinfection c. sterilization

d. sanitation

26. What products are used to prevent the growth of microbes on the skin?  a. antiseptics b. disinfectants c. fungicidals

d. bactericidals

27. What term describes when all microbes are killed or destroyed?  a. sterilization b. sanitation c. disinfection

d. ventilation

2

28. The term used to describe efforts to prevent the spread of disease and kill certain or all microbes is known as:  a. first aid b. ventilation c. contamination d. infection control 29. Sanitation is a term that means:  a. to remove dirt to aid in preventing the growth of microbes b. to destroy or kill a broad spectrum of microbes c. to kill fungus d. the study of microorganisms 30. What type of soap should cosmetologists avoid using because it can harbor and transmit microbes?  a. liquid soap from a pump dispenser b. bar soap c. antiseptic d. disinfectant 31. Key information on a specific product regarding ingredients, associated hazards, combustion levels and storage requirements can be found on:  a. MSDS b. product cap c. efficacy label d. registration 32. The regulating agency under the Department of Labor that enforces safety and health standards in the workplace is:  a. MSDS b. DNR c. USDA d. OSHA 33. What agency approves the efficacy of products used for infection control?  a. EPA b. DNR c. OSHA

d. MSDS

34. Disinfectants that kill bacteria, viruses, fungi and pseudomonas are:  a. bacterial disinfectants b. viral disinfectants c. broad spectrum disinfectants d. narrow spectrum disinfectants 35. All implements must be thoroughly cleaned before:  a. purchasing b. disposal

c. lending

d. immersion

36. Implements that come into contact with the client must be:  a. sanitized at the beginning of each day b. sanitized at the end of each day c. disinfected on a weekly basis d. disinfected or discarded 37. It is important to follow all of these steps when disinfecting a brush or comb EXCEPT:  a. remove hair from the implement b. wash the implement with soap and water c. completely immerse the implement in the disinfectant d. partially immerse the implement in the disinfectant 38. Disinfection can only be practiced on:  a. porous surfaces b. nonporous surfaces

c. plastic

d. uneven surfaces

39. All of the following terms describe the type of container disinfected implements are stored in EXCEPT:  a. open b. clean c. covered d. disinfected 40. All of the following descriptions are precautions to take when using chemical disinfectants EXCEPT:  a. wear safety glasses b. tightly cover and label all containers c. purchase chemicals in small quantities d. store implements in a warm, moist area.

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41. Which of the following statements is NOT a step associated with a blood spill procedure?  a. wash hands b. apply lotion c. cover hands with protective gloves d. double-bag blood-soiled articles 42. Disinfecting solutions should be stored in a cool, dry area, because:  a. air, light and heat can weaken their effectiveness b. they can be easily found there c. it is required by the IRS d. they can melt 43. What is recommended for a person who has an electrical or a heat burn but the skin is not broken?  a. apply an ointment or cream to the burned area b. immerse the burned area in cool water c. break any blisters that may form d. pour hot water on the burned area 44. Which of the following steps is recommended for flushing the eyes if chemicals should get into them?  a. 15 to 30 minutes with cold water b. 15 to 30 minutes with lukewarm water c. 15 to 30 minutes with hot water d. 15 to 30 minutes with a mild antiseptic 45. In the event of an embedded object in the eye, a person should:  a. remove the embedded object with the corner of a damp cloth b. place a gauze pad over the eye only if object has been successfully removed c. get to an eye specialist or emergency room immediately d. wait for a few days before seeking medical attention

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.

42



1.

page 47

13.

page 48

25.

page 52

37.

page 57



2.

page 47

14.

page 49

26.

page 52

38.

page 57



3.

page 47

15.

page 49

27.

page 52

39.

page 57



4.

page 47

16.

page 50

28.

page 52

40.

page 58



5.

page 47

17.

page 50

29.

page 53

41.

page 58



6.

page 47

18.

page 50

30.

page 53

42.

page 58



7.

page 47

19.

page 51

31.

page 55

43.

page 61



8.

page 47

20.

page 51

32.

page 55

44.

page 62



9.

page 48

21.

page 51

33.

page 55

45.

page 62

10.

page 48

22.

page 51

34.

page 55

11.

page 48

23.

page 51

35.

page 56

12.

page 48

24.

page 52

36.

page 57

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notes to mysELf

ECO LO GY

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Salon Ecology:

2

Lessons learned • A basic knowledge of microbiology provides the foundation for preventing the spread of disease through proper disinfection in the salon. • Infection control involves the steps you take to prevent the spread of disease and kill certain or all microbes. • First-aid safety precautions allow a salon professional to help people in emergency situations.

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sm a r tN OT ES

Necessary for a healthy, happy life 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

Science that deals with healthful living

44

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ANATOMY

AND

P HYSIO LO GY

C HA PTER 3

ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY 3

VALUE Because cosmetologists touch and care for the human body, you have the responsibility as a professional to know and understand how the body functions.

MAIN IDEA Proper hair, nail and skin care depends on your knowledge of the body’s anatomy.

PLAN

3.1 BUILDING BLOCKS OF THE HUMAN BODY

Cells Tissues Organs Body Systems

3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEMS

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The The The The The The The The The The

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Skeletal System Muscular System Circulatory System Nervous System Digestive System Excretory System Respiratory System Endocrine System Reproductive System Integumentary System

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.1 Building Blocks of the Human Body p age s 6 5 - 6 6 Anatomy

The Necessary study of fororgans a healthy, and happy systemslifeof the body Primary interest to cosmetologist are muscles, nerves, circulatory system and bones of the neck,toarms and fatigue hands 6-8 hours ofhead, sleep face, necessary prevent

DIFFERENCES G ROSS

MICROSCOPIC

Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Stimulates blood circulation Encourages functioning Can beproper seen with the naked of eyeorgans

Also called histology, studies structures too small to see without the aid of a microscope

Physiology

Cells

Protoplasm

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Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance The study of the functions that organs and systems perform Science that deals with healthful living The basic units of living matter Three basic parts

Cells are composed of a gel-like substance containing water, salt and nutrients obtained from food

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ANATOMY

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.1 Building Blocks of the Human Body Nucleus

Cytoplasm

The control center of cell activities

Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting

Production partdisinfection of cell, most of cell activities take place here Improper practices

Cell Membrane

Label the Cell

Metabolism

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3

Improper storage or use of food

Outer surface of cell which encloses the protoplasm Bad breath = halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh 1. Nucleus Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant 2. Cytoplasm Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin 3. Cell Membrane

Chemical process in which cells receive nutrients for growth and reproduction 2 phases are: anabolism, catabolism Foundation should always match skin tone Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

A NA BOLISM

CATA B OLIS M

Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well building up larger molecules from

breaking down larger molecules

smaller ones

into smaller ones

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.1 Building Blocks of the Human Body Tissues

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Made Necessary up offor groups a healthy, of cells happy of the lifesame kind 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue Connective Epithelial - covers and protects body surface and organs

Five Types by Function

supports, protects and holds body together

Nerve - coordinates Tissue Muscular body functions; Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better contracts to Functions carries messages to produce motion and from the brain and spinal cord Stimulates blood circulation

Encourages proper functioning ofLiquid organs- carries food, waste products and hormones

Organs

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases MAJOR FUNCTIONS RDA - Recommended Allowance Separate body structuresDietary that perform specific functions

Eight Primary Organs Brain

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Science that deals with healthful living Controls all body functions

Eyes



Controls vision

Heart



Circulates blood

Lungs



Supply blood with oxygen

Stomach/Intestine



Digest food

Liver



Removes toxic byproducts of digestion

Kidney



Eliminates water and waste products

Skin



Largest organ, external protective layer of body

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ANATOMY

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.1 Building Blocks of the Human Body Body Systems

System - group of structures/organs that perform one or more vital functions of bodyImpure air ventilation

Skeletal

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Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection VITAL practices



Improper storage or use of food



FUNCTIONS

3

Framework of body

Bad breath = halitosis

Muscular Circulatory

Maintaining Moves the bodyteeth and keeping breath fresh healthy

Circulates blood

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

Nervous Digestive



Sends and receives messages

HairSupplies foodhealthy hair = beautiful hair care – clean, Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Excretory



Eliminates waste

Respiratory



Controls breathing

Endocrine



Controls growth and general health and reproduction of body

Reproductive

Foundation Allows living to procreate shouldorganisms always match skin tone others of its kind Contouring with lights – broadens

Integumentary

Contouring Controlswith thedarks sebaceous (oil) and sudoriferous (sweat) glands – diminishes

Mini-Review Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Systems: • Perform one or more vital functions Dress well

Organs:

•

Make up systems

Tissues:

•

Make up organs

basic units and of living matter; make up tissues Cells: your physical • The well-being Good posture enhances reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S The Skeletal System 206

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The Necessary physical forfoundation a healthy, happy of body life 206 6-8 bones hours of in sleep body necessary – each attached to prevent to others fatigue at movable or immovable joints Joint - point at which two or more bones joined together

Osteology Types of Bones

Bone Composition

Four Major Functions of the Skeletal System

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UNIT 1 THEORY ESSENTIALS

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The study of bone Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Long bones are found in arms and legs Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper of organs skull Flat bones are foundfunctioning in Irregular bones are found in wrist, ankle, spinal column Hardest in bodyfor personal and professional well-being as well as Balancedstructure diet is essential providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance ⅔ mineral, ⅓ organic matter

Science that deals with healthful living 1. Supports by giving body shape and strength 2. Surrounds and protects internal organs 3. Provides frame to which muscles can attach 4. Allows body movement

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S The Skull

Major Parts of the Cranium Frontal

p age s 69- 70

Skeleton of head; Encloses and protects brain and primary sensory organs 2 groups: Impure cranium air ventilation - 8 bones; facial skeleton - 14 bones

Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection practices



Improper storage or use ofIN foodYOUR DESCRIBE

OWN WORDS

3

Cranium of 8 affected by scalp massage; Form eyes to top of head - forehead Bad breath- =6halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Parietal

2 bones - form crown and upper sides of head

Occipital

Forms back of using skull soap - indent above nape area Bathe regularly and use deodorant

Temporal

2 bones - sides of head above ears, below parietal Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Sphenoid

Behind eyes andexercise nose - and connects all bones of theskin cranium; Not affected Good nutrition, rest = healthy glowing by massage or styling

Ethmoid

Spongy bone between eyes - forms part of nasal cavity; Not affected by massage or styling

Label the Cranium

Foundation should always match skin tone

1.

Frontal

Contouring with lights – broadens 1

Contouring with darks – 2diminishes &3



2-3. Parietal

5 & shoes 6 Clothing must be clean, polished

Dress well

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4.

Occipital

5-6. Good posture enhances your physical well-being andTemporal reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Facial Skeleton Parts of the Facial Skeleton Mandible Maxillae Nasal Zygomatic (Malar) Lacrimal

Label the Facial Skeleton

p a ge 70

Of the 14 bones, only 9 happy involved Necessary for a healthy, lifein facial massage 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

Describe in Your Own Words

Lower jaw - largest of facial skeleton 2 bones - upper jaw Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better 2 bones - bridge of nose Stimulates blood circulation proper functioning organs 2Encourages bones - upper cheek, bottom ofofeye sockets 2 bones - smallest of facial skeleton; Front part of inner, bottom wall of eye socket Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases 1. Mandible RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Science that deals 4-5 with healthful living 9 8

2-3. Maxillae



4-5. Nasal



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7 2-3

6-7. Zygomatic

1



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8-9. Lacrimal

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Neck Bones

Top part of spinal column and Adam’s apple

Cervical Vertebrae

Label the Neck Bones

Impure air ventilation

7 bonesInadequate - often manipulated in extended scalp massage lighting

Hyoid

pa ge 7 1

Improper disinfection practices

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U-shaped, Adam’s apple Improper storage or use of food Bad breath = halitosis

1-7. Cervical vertebrae

Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh 1 2



3

8.

Hyoid

Bathe regularly 4 using soap and use deodorant 5

8

6 7

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Back, Chest and Shoulder Bones Thorax

Clavicle

Chest - Bony cage composed of thoracic vertebrae, sternum and 12 ribs; protects organs Bone that forms from throat shoulder Foundation shouldarea always match skintotone Contouring with lights – broadens

Scapula Label the Back, Chest and Shoulder Bones

Flat bone - extends from middle of back to where it attaches to clavicle Contouring with darks – diminishes 15

1.

Thoracic vertebrae (spine)

2.

Sternum

16 Clothing must be clean, shoes polished 3

Dress well 4

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6

3-14. Ribs

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue 7

Use height adjustments on8 chairs

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15.

Clavicle

Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed 10

When sitting, keep knees11together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair 16. Scapula 2

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14 13

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Arm, Wrist and Hand Bones Humerus Radius Ulna Carpals Metacarpals Phalanges

Label the Arm, Wrist and Hand Bones

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Necessary for a healthy, happy life Largest bone upper arm - elbow to shoulder 6-8 hours of of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue Small bone on thumb side of lower arm in forearm Bone located on little finger side of lower arm exercise routine willbyhelp you look 8Regular small bones held together ligaments to and formwork wristbetter (carpus) 5Stimulates long thin blood bones circulation - form palm of hand Encourages proper functioning of organs 14 bones that form digits or fingers; fingers have 3, thumbs 2

1. Humerus Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance 2. Radius Science that deals with healthful living 1

3.

Ulna



4.

Carpals

5.

Metacarpals

6.

Phalanges

2 3



4 5



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ANATOMY

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P HYSIO LO GY

WORD SORT GAME dem bones This game will help you remember difficult words. Directions:

1. Select a team



2. Review the words in the Jump Start Box



3. Place each word in the correct Mystery Box



4. Check your answers in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook

FACIAL SKELETON

CRANIUM • • • •

3

Frontal Temporal Occipital Parietal

NECK BONES

• • • • •

Zygomatic Lacrimal Mandible Maxillae Nasal

• Hyoid • Cervical Vertebrae

ARM, WRIST & HAND BONES • • • • • •

BACK, CHEST & SHOULDER BONES • Clavicle • Thorax • Scapula

Metacarpals Phalanges Carpals Ulna Humerus Radius

jump start box Frontal

Metacarpals

Occipital

Nasal

Hyoid

Phalanges

L acrimal

Scapula

Cervical Vertebrae

Ulna

Humerus

Thorax

Carpals

Mandible

Radius

Zygomatic

Temporal

Maxillae

Parietal

Clavicle





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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Muscular System Myology 500 Four Major Functions of the Muscular System

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Necessary for a healthy, happy life The study of muscles 6-8 hours sleep necessary to prevent fatigue More than 500 large and small muscles - make up 40% of body’s weight 1. Support skeleton Regular exerciseof routine will help you look and work better 2. Production body movements 3. Contouring the body Stimulates bloodofcirculation Encourages proper functioning of organs 4. Involved in functions of other body systems (digestive, circulatory and nervous)

Two Types of Muscle Tissue

Striated Balancedand dietnon-striated is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

ST Rwith IAThealthful E D living Science that deals

NON-ST R IATED

Voluntary – respond to commands

Respond automatically to control

regulated by will

body functions including those of internal organs

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ANATOMY

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Special Terminology



Anterior

Superioris

Impure air ventilation

Inadequate In front of lighting

Posterior

p age s 72 - 73

Improper disinfection practices

3

Improper Behind or instorage back or use of food

BadLocated or is larger breath = above halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Inferioris Levator Depressor



Located below or is smaller

Bathe Lifts up using soap and use deodorant regularly

Draws down or depresses

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Dilator Cosmetologist’s Primary Concern Cardiac Muscle Three Parts of the Muscle

Good Opens, enlarges or expands nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin Concerned with voluntary muscles of head, face, neck, arms and hands

Only muscle of its type in body; functions involuntarily 1. Origin: should Nonmoving fixed portion, Foundation always match skin tone attached to bones or other fixed muscle; Contouring withskeletal lights –muscle; broadensmeans attached to bone Contouring with darks – diminishes

2. Belly:

Midsection of muscle

3. Insertion: Portion of muscle joined to movable attachments (bone, movable Clothing must be clean, shoes polished muscles or skin) Dress well How the Muscle Produces Movement

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Contraction (tightening) Expansion (relaxing) Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Seven Ways to Stimulate Muscles

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Necessary for a healthy, happy life Chemicals - certain acids and salts

Massage

Electric current high frequency and faradic

Nerve impulses

Muscular Stimulation

Light rays IR and UV

6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Stimulates blood circulation Moist heat -of organs Encourages proper functioning steamers, steam towels

Scalp and Face Muscles Epicranius

Frontalis

Occipitalis Label the Scalp Muscles

Heat rays heat lamps and heating caps

Primary cosmetologist whenand performing scalp and neckasmassages Balancedinterest diet is to essential for personal professional well-being well as and/ providing prevention forcertain or facials; manipulated from the diseases insertion attachment to the origin attachment RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Covers epicranium, formed by 2 muscles joined by aponeurosis tendon; also called occipitofrontalis Science that deals with healthful living Front part of epicranius - forehead to top of skull - raises eyebrows or draws scalp forward At nape of neck - draws scalp back

1



1. Frontalis

2. Occipitalis

2

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Ear Muscles

Only students who can wiggle their ears will dispute that ear muscles have no Impure air ventilation recognized function

Auricularis Anterior

Inadequate lighting

of Improper disinfection practices Front ear

Auricularis Superior

Improper storage or use of food

Above ear Bad breath = halitosis

Auricularis Posterior Label the Ear Muscles

pa ge 74

Help the student remember these three terms by relating that they all start with “au,” which is also the beginning of audio, which relates to “what you can hear.” Also remind student of the special terminology found on page 72 of the Salon Fundamentals Textbook.

3

Maintaining Behind ear healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

1. Auricularis Anterior Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant 2. Auricularis Superior 2 Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful 3. Auricularis Posterior hair 1

3

Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Eye and Nose Muscles

Suggest to students again that they locate the muscles on their eye and nose as you discuss the different locations and functions Foundation should always match skin tone

Corrugator

Levator Palpebrae Superioris Orbicularis Oculi

Located between the eyebrows; Contouring with lights – broadensdraws eyebrows inward and downward; causes frown lines;with relate to students that a corrugated roof has vertical lines, similar Contouring darks – diminishes to frown lines caused by the corrugator Located theclean, eyelids and raises the eyelids; remind students about the Clothingabove must be shoes polished definition Dress well of levator (lifts up) Circles the eye socket and closes the lid; relate to students that both words start with “O” is aenhances circular your letterphysical and eyeswell-being are circular; ends with an “eye” sound Goodwhich posture andoculi reduces physical fatigue

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3

Use height adjustments on chairs

Procerus

Located between the chin eyebrows, across therelaxed bridge of the nose and draws brows Keep head up, level, shoulders down wrinkles across the bridge thesitnose; students and When sitting, the keeparea knees together, feet on of floor, well relate back intochair that when “processing” or thinking things through, the brows draw down and wrinkles occur across the bridge of the nose

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Label the Eye and Nose Muscles

p age s 74 - 75

Necessary for a healthy, happy 1. Corrugator life 2. Levator Palpebrae Superioris 3 3 1 4 1 • • 2 2 6-8 hours of sleep necessary 3. toOrbicularis Oculi prevent fatigue 4. Procerus

Mouth Muscles Oris Orbicularis

Quadratus Labii Superioris (Levatator Labii Superioris)

Regularthe exercise routine will puckering help you look and work better Circles mouth; function: or kissing; lavoris is a product used for the mouth; endings are the same Stimulates blood circulation Encourages functioning of organs Consists of 3proper parts; function: raises the upper lip, as in distaste (curling the upper lip); relate to the special terminology

Risorius

Below the lower lip; function: pulls the lower lip down, as in sarcasm Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention diseases Tip of the chin; function:forcertain pushes lower lip up and/or wrinkles the chin, as in doubt RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Corner of the mouth; function: draws the mouth up and out, as in grinning

Caninus

Science dealsofwith healthful living raises the angle of the mouth, as in snarling Above thethat corners the mouth; function:

Quadratus Labii Inferioris (Depressor Labii Inferioris)

Mentalis

(Levator Anguli Oris)

Triangularis (Depressor Anguli)

Below the corners of the mouth; function: draws the corners of the mouth down, as in depression

Zygomaticus

Outside the corners of the mouth; function: draws the mouth up and back, as in laughing

Buccinator Label the Mouth Muscles

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UNIT 1 THEORY ESSENTIALS

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Between the jaws and cheek; function: compresses the cheek 1. 2. 3. 2 2 8 8 V 4. 6 6 1 5. 5 5 9 9 6. 7 7 3 3 4 4 7.

Oris Orbicularis 8. Zygomaticus Quadratus Labii Superioris 9. Buccinator Quadratus Labii Inferioris Mentalis Risorius Caninus Triangularis

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Mastication Muscles

Chewing muscles

Temporalis

Label the Mastication Muscles

Impure air ventilation

Inadequate lighting Above and in front of ear; function: opens and closes the jaw, as in chewing

Masseter

pa ge 75

Improper disinfection practices

3

Improper use function: of food closes the jaw, as in chewing Covers the hingestorage of theorjaw;

Bad breath = halitosis 1. Temporalis 1 Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh



2. Masseter

2

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

Neck and Upper Back Muscles

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Platysma

Extends from the tip of the chin to the shoulders and chest; function: depresses the lower jaw and lip, as in sadness (the platypus is a sad-looking animal)

Sternocleido Mastoideus

Extends along the side of the neck from the ear to the collarbone; function: causes the head to move from side to side and up and down, as in nodding “yes” or “no”

Trapezius Latissimus Dorsi

Pair of muscles thatalways coversmatch the back the neck and upper back; function: draw the Foundation should skinoftone head back, rotate the shoulder blades and control swinging of the arm, like a trapeze Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Label the Neck and Upper Back Muscles



4

Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well Stress the importance of these muscles when offering shoulder and neck massage. Relate to students that this can be a quick way to relax a client before or after a shampoo service.

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2

3

4

5



3

4

5a

5a, b

3. Platysma 4. Sternocleido Mastoideus 5a. Trapezius

Good posture enhances your physical well-being 5b. Latissimus Dorsi and reduces physical fatigue 5b

Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Shoulder, Chest and Arm Muscles Pectoralis Serratus Anterior Deltoid

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Necessary for a healthy, happy life Major and of minor across the frontfatigue of the chest – swing the arms 6-8 hours sleepextend necessary to prevent Under the arm – helps in lifting the arm and in breathing Covers the shoulder – lifts or turns the arm

Bicep

Regular exercise will the helpforearm, you look andthe work better Front of the upperroutine arm – raises bends elbow and turns the palm down

Tricep

Stimulates Extends theblood lengthcirculation of the upper arm to forearm – forward movement of forearm Encourages proper functioning of organs Parallel to the ulna – turns palm up (soup’s up)

Supinator Pronator Flexor Extensor Label the Shoulder, Chest and Arm Muscles

Turns the palm of the hand downward and inward Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention diseases Mid-forearm, inside offorcertain arm – bends wrist and closes fingers (flexes) RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Mid-forearm, inside of arm – straightens the fingers and wrist (extends) Science that deals with healthful living Posterior View

Anterior View 3

1b

1a

5 4 8

2

9

7

1a. Pectoralis major 1b. Pectoralis minor 2. Serratus anterior 3. Deltoid 4. Bicep 5. Tricep

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6

1

6. 7. 8. 9.

2

3

Supinator Pronator Flexor Extensor

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ANATOMY

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Hand Muscles

Hand muscles stretch over the fingers, connect the joints, provide dexterity

Abductor

Opponens

Label the Hand Muscles

Impure air ventilation

Inadequate lighting Separates the fingers (think of abduct or take away)

Adductor

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Improper disinfection practices

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Improper storage or use(think of food Draws the fingers together of add) Bad breath halitosis Located in =the palm – causes the thumb to move toward the fingers – gives 3 fresh the ability tohealthy grasp or make fist 1breath Maintaining teeth and akeeping

2 2 1 3 Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant 2

1

2

3

1

2

Palm Up 3 Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

1

2 skin Good1nutrition, exercise 1 and rest = healthy glowing Palm Down

Palm Up

1 Palm Down 1. Abductor

2. Adductor Foundation should always match skin tone

3. Opponens Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

1

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2

3

4

5



Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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MATCHI N G Match the term with the best description by placing the number of the description in the space to the left of the term.

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DESCRIPTION

TERM

1. Close Eyelids

6 _____ Frontalis

2. Opens and Closes Jaw

18 _____ Corrugator

3. Separates Fingers

13 _____ Levator Palpebrae Superioris

4. Raise Nostrils (distaste)

1 _____ Orbicularis Oculi

5. Draws Fingers Together

16 _____ Procerus

6. Raise Eyebrows

14 _____ Oris Orbicularis

7. Draws Mouth Up (grin)

4 _____ Quadratus Labii Superioris

8. Thumb Movement

17 _____ Quadratus Labii Inferioris

9. Wrinkles Chin (doubt)

9 _____ Mentalis

10. Chewing

7 _____ Risorius

11. Controls Swinging of Arms

15 _____ Zygomaticus

12. Assists in Breathing

2 _____ Temporalis

13. Raise Eyelids

10 _____ Masseter

14. Kissing

11 _____ Latissimus Dorsi

15. Draws Corners of Mouth Up (laugh)

12 _____ Serratus Anterior

16. Wrinkles Nose

3 _____ Abductor

17. Pulls Lip Down (sarcasm)

5 _____ Adductor

18. Controls Eyebrows

8 _____ Opponens

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ANATOMY

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WORD SORT GAME dem MUSCLES This game will help you remember difficult words. Directions:

1. Select a team



2. Review the words in the Jump Start Box



3. Place each word in the correct Mystery Box



4. Check your answers in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook

EAR

Eye & Nose

SCALP & FACE

• Auricularis Anterior • Auricularis Posterior • Auricularis Superior

• Corrugator • Levator palpebrae superioris • Orbicularis oculi • Procerus

• Frontalis • Occipitalis

NECK & UPPER BACK

SHOULDER, CHEST & ARM

MASTICATION

• Platysma • Sternocleido mastodeus • Trapezius • Latissimus dorsi

• Temporalis • Masseter

• Pectoralis • Serratus anterior • Deltoid • Bicep

• Tricep • Flexor • Supinator • Extensor

HAND

MOUTH • Oris orbicularis • Quadratus labii inferioris • Quadratus labii superioris

3

• Abductor • Adductor • Opponens

• Mentalis Risorius • Caninus • Triangularis • Zygomaticus • Buccinator

jump start box Abductor

Corrugator

Mentalis risorius

inferioris

Adductor

Deltoid

Occipitalis

Quadratus labii

Auricularis anterior

Extensor

Opponens

superioris

Auricularis

Flexor

Orbicularis oculi

Serratus anterior

posterior

Frontalis

Oris orbicularis

Sternocleido

Auricularis superior

Latissimus dorsi

Pectoralis

mastoideus

Bicep

Levator palpebrae

Platysma

Supinator

Buccinator

superioris

Procerus

Temporalis

Caninus

Masseter

Quadratus labii

Trapezius

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S The Circulatory System

pa ge 7 7

Also Necessary called for theavascular healthy,system happy –life transports blood and lymph; massage treatments stimulate or relax circulation 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

MAJOR FUNCTIONS

Cardiovascular System Lymph-Vascular System

Lymph Glands Nodes

Blood-vascular Responsible for circulation of blood using arteries, veins and capillaries Reaches Regular parts exercise of body routine notwill reached help you by blood look and work better Circulates lymph through lymph glands, nodes and vessels Lymph filters blood by removing toxins (poisons) Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs Colorless liquid; byproduct of plasma passing nourishment to capillaries and cells Filter out toxic substances like bacteria Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseasesswollen or tender nodes indicate infection Filter out toxic substances like bacteria; RDA Recommended Dietary Allowance in the -body

Science that deals with healthful living Note: Lymph, which also transports disease-fighting white blood cells (lymphocytes), circulates only as a result of muscle movement; there is no heart-like pump.

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S The Circulatory System (continued) The Heart

Pericardium



Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting

pa ge 7 7

Size of Improper closed fist; disinfection located inpractices chest cavity; contracts and relaxes to force blood to move through Improperthe storage circulatory or use ofsystem food

3

Membrane encases the heart (peri means around) (cardium relates to heart) Bad breath =that halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Four Compartments Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Left Atrium (Auricle)

Right Atrium (Auricle)

Right Ventricle





Left Ventricle

Foundation should always match skin tone

Take time in class to have students find their pulse and count the rate of their own heart beat.

Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Clothing must be clean, shoes polished

Rate 60 to 80

Normal Dress wellheart beats 60 to 80 beats per minute; regulated by sympathetic nervous system and vagus (10th cranial nerve) Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Label the Heart

p age s 7 7- 78

1. Pericardium Necessary for a healthy, happy life Rightfatigue Atrium (Auricle) 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to 2. prevent 1 3 3. Left Atrium (Auricle) 2

4

4. Right Ventricle

5

Regular exercise routine will help and work better 5. you Leftlook Ventricle Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs The Blood

8 to 10 Pints Erythrocytes (RBC)

Leukocytes (WBC) Thrombocytes (Clot)

Sticky, salty fluid that circulates to carry nourishment and oxygen to body parts and carries toxins and waste products to liver and kidneys Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases Average adult blood supply RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Red blood cells; carry oxygen and contain hemoglobin; oxygenation is when hemoglobin attracts oxygen; when oxygen is low, blood is deep scarlet red Science that deals with healthful living White corpuscles; fight bacteria and other foreign substances Blood platelets responsible for clotting blood Plasma is the fluid part of blood; 90% water; carries RBC and WBC and blood platelets through the body

Interesting fact: One square inch (6.5 sq. cm) of skin contains up to 15 feet (4.5 m) of blood vessels.

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Blood Vessels

p age s 78 - 79

ARTERI ES



Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting

CAPI L L ARIES

VEINS

• Tubular, Improper thick-walled disinfection practices • Thin-walled

• Small vessels

Improper vessels storage or use of• food • Branching Branching vessels

• Take nutrients to cells

• Carry pure blood

Bad = halitosis Bright red in color • breath

• Carry blood from capillaries • Cup-like valves

3

•  Take waste from cells to veins

 prevent backflow Maintaining healthy breath fresh away teeth and keeping • Carry blood from heart

• Impure blood is dark red • C  loser to body surface

arteries Bathe regularly using soap and use than deodorant

1. Systemic Circulation

TO THE HEART Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Blood enters theexercise right _________________ auricle of skin the heart through the Good nutrition, and rest = healthy glowing _________________ _________________ . Then it is superior vena _________________ cava _________________ pumped through the _________________ tricuspid valve _________________. into the _________________ right ventricle

2. Pulmonary TO THE LUNGS Circulation From the _________________ right _________________, ventricle blood is pumped the _________________ _________________, then through the into pulmonary artery Foundation should always match skin tone _________________ to the lungs. pulmonary –_________________ Contouring with lights broadensartery





Contouring with darks – diminishes

3. Systemic BACK TO THE HEART Circulation pulmonary Blood returns to the heart from the lungs via the ____________________ _________________ and enters the left _________________. From the auricle Clothingvein must be clean, shoes polished left auricle _________________ left ventricle by Dress well it goes to the ____________________ way of the _________________ valve. From the left ventricle it goes to the bicuspid _________________. aorta Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

THE Use height adjustments on chairs TO BODY

Keep chin level, the shoulders Blood then head flowsup, throughout body relaxed and returns to the heart via the _________________ _________________. When sitting, knees together, sitcava well back in chair superior keep_________________ vena feet on floor,

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Arteries of the Face, Head and Neck Common Carotid (CCA) Blood supplied to:

Returns blood from:

External Carotid Artery Occipital

70

Necessary for a healthy, happy life 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue Supplies head, face and neck; located on either side of the neck; splits into internal and external carotid The _____________________ internal _________________ carotid _________________ artery supplies blood to the brain, eyes and forehead. _____________________ external _________________ branches into arteries, blood to the skin Regularcarotid exercise routine will help yousmaller look and worksupplying better and muscles of the head. Stimulates blood circulation All blood from the head, face and returns through two veins, the Encourages proper functioning ofneck organs _____________________ _________________ _________________ and the internal jugular vein _____________________ _________________ _________________. external jugular vein Splits intodiet smaller branches Balanced is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Supplies blood to back of head, up to crown

Posterior Auricular

Supplies blood to scalp andliving behind ears Science that deals with above healthful

Superficial Temporal

Supplies blood to sides and top of head

External Maxillary

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Supplies blood to lower portion of face, including mouth and nose

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Label the Veins and Arteries of the Face, Head and Neck



Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection practices



Improper storage or use of food

pa ge 8 0

8

3

7 Bad breath = halitosis 6 Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh 9 3 2Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant 1 5 4Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Research says that students retain. . . 10% of what they read, 20% of what they hear, 30% of what they see, 50% of what they see and hear, 70% of what they say, and 90% of what they say and DO!

Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

That means it becomes very important for the terms in this chapter to come alive. Hands-on experiences are a priority and having the student say out loud the definition, location and function is crucial.

1. Common Carotid Artery 2. Internalshould Carotid Artery Foundation always match skin tone Contouring with lights – broadens 3. Externalwith Carotid Contouring darks Artery – diminishes 4. Internal Jugular Vein Clothing must be clean, shoes polished

5. External Dress well Jugular Vein 6. Occipital Artery Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue Posterior Use height adjustments on chairs Auricular Artery 7.

Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed

Superficial When sitting, keep knees 8. Temporal Arterytogether, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

9. External Maxillary Artery

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S The Nervous System Central Nervous System Brain

Four Parts of the Brain Spinal cord originates in base of brain and extends to the base of the spine; holds 31 pairs of cranial nerves

Peripheral Nervous System Nerve Cells

p age s 8 1 - 8 2

Neurology Necessary -for study a healthy, of the nervous happy life system; 3 parts: central or cerebrospinal, peripheral, autonomic or sympathetic; primary components: brain, spinal cord, nerves 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue Composed of brain and spinal cord and spinal and cranial nerves - responsible for voluntary actions Controls all 3 parts of the nervous system - command center; weighs 44 to 48 ounces; largest of the nerve tissues Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better CEREBRUM

PONS

CEREBELLUM

MEDULL A OBLONGATA

Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs • Connects other • Mental activity • Muscle movement • Upper front of cranium

• Occipital area below cerebrum

• Connects other

parts of brain to

parts of brain to

spinal column;

spinal column;

below cerebrum

below pons

• Front of cerebellum Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Composed of sensory and motor nerves that extend from the brain and spinal cord to other parts of the body; carries messages to and from the central nervous system Science that deals with healthful living Also called neurons; like other cells, have nucleus, cytoplasm and membrane; differ in appearance - long and short threadlike fibers called axons extend; nerve terminals at end of axon - send message as impulses, short fibers, dendrites receive messages

Types of Nerves Interesting fact:

At birth the brain weighs about one pound. By one year it has doubled in size and reaches 90% of adult size (approximately 3-4 pounds) by age 4. Millions of dendrite (nerve impulses) travel across the brain. Research tells us that reading is the best form of aerobics for the brain, causing the dendrites to travel back and forth, from left brain to right brain to transfer the image of the printed word to a comprehensive thought or idea.

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MOTOR

MIXED

S E NSO RY

• Efferent

• Afferent

• Carry messages from brain

• Carry messages to brain

to muscles

• Perform both motor and sensory functions

and spinal cord • Sense of smell, sight, touch, hearing, taste

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Face, Head and Neck Nerves Trifacial and Facial Nerves Label the Nerves of the Face, Head and Neck

p age s 8 3 - 8 4

2 of the 12 pairs of cranial nerves control face, head and neck

Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting

Improper disinfection Trifacial is largest of cranialpractices nerves - divides into 3 main branches and 8 smaller branches; facial storage nerve emerges Improper or use offrom food brain and is primary motor nerve of the face

3

Bad breath = halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant 1

2

4 Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair 10 9 3 4 Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy 5 glowing skin 6 8 14 15

16

Trifacial is also called trigeminal or the 5th cranial nerve. Facial is also called the 7th cranial nerve. Numbers 14-17 represent the 11th cranial nerve or sometimes referred to as the accessory nerve. The textbook refers to this group as other cervical nerves.

13

11 12

7

17 Foundation should always match skin tone

Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

1. Supraorbital 10. Zygomatic 2. Supratrochlear 11. Buccal 12. Mandibular 3. Nasal Clothing must be clean, shoes polished 4. Zygomatic 13. Cervical Dress well 5. Infraorbital 14. Greater Occipital 6. Auriculo Temporal 15. Lesser Occipital 7. Mental Good posture enhances your physical well-being and 16. reducesGreater physicalAuricular fatigue Posterior Use height adjustments on chairs 8. Auricular 17. Cervical Cutaneous Temporal Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed 9.

When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair



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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S Label the Nerves of the Arm and Hand

p a ge 8 5

Necessary for a healthy, happy life



6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue







Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better 2 Stimulates blood circulation 3 Encourages proper functioning of organs 1

Balanced diet4 is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance 1. Ulnar 3. Radial 2. Median 4. Digital The Autonomic Nervous System

Science that with healthful living Also called thedeals sympathetic nervous system The autonomic system is responsible for all involuntary body functions: respiratory, digestive, excretory, endocrine, reproductive

Talk to the students about the importance of getting to know their own body to be able to recognize signs of when things might not be working well. Review that getting the right amount of sleep, eating a balanced diet and relieving stress are important keys to overall healthiness. Stress will hamper digestion. Lack of sleep will affect the nervous system. A lack of sleep and stress combined will put body systems into overload and not allow them to function properly.

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sm a r tN OT ES 3.2 BASIC BODY SYSTEM S The Digestive System

The Excretory System

p age s 8 6- 8 8

food The digestive system breaks down _________________ into simpler _________________ compounds that can be easily _________________ by cells chemical Impure air ventilation absorbed or, absorbed, eliminated from the body in _________________ products; if not Inadequate lighting waste Also as gastrointestal system; pharynx to esophagus to stomach to small known Improper disinfection practices intestine to largestorage intestine; approximately 9 hours Improper or usetakes of food

3

The excretory system _________________ solid, liquid and gaseous waste eliminates Bad breath = halitosis products from the body Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

Skin Liver

Body’s largest organ Neutralizes ammonia and converts it tohair urea Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Kidneys

Receive urea from liver; nephrons filter out waste and water

The Respiratory System Primary Functions

Intake oxygen; exhale carbon dioxide Primary organs arealways lungsmatch and diaphragm Foundation should skin tone Contouring with lights – broadens

The Endocrine System

Ductless glands Contouring with that darksmanufacture – diminishes hormones Affects hair growth, skin conditions, energy levels Clothing must be clean, shoes polished

The Reproductive System

Process by which a living organism procreates others of its kind Dress well

The Integumentary System

The and enhances all of its your layersphysical well-being and reduces physical fatigue Goodskin posture

Two Primary Glands

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed

Sebaceous (oil) glands When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair Sudoriferous (sweat) glands

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thin k ing map Now that you have filled in your SmartNotes for “Anatomy and Physiology,” create a Thinking Map to help make sense of how your SmartNotes fit together. Use some or all of the words in the Jump Start Box as well as your own words and pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this chapter to each other. Be creative!

ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY

jump start box Body Systems Skeletal Muscular Circulatory Nervous Digestive E xcretory Respiratory

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Endocrine Reproductive Integumentary Organs Brain Eyes Heart Lungs

Stomach/Intestine Liver Kidneys Skin Tissues Epithelial Connective Nerve

1

2

Muscular Cells Nucleus Cytoplasm Cell Membrane Protoplasm Metabolism

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ANATOMY

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MEMORY JOGGER An “OLOGY” is the study of something. Define the following ology’s.

PHYSIOLOGY

Study of the functions of organs and systems

OSTEOLOGY

Study of bones

MYOLOGY

Study of muscles

COSMETOLOGY

Study of art and science of beauty care

NEUROLOGY

Study of nerves

3

F O RM FOLLOW S F U N C TI O N In this chapter several important terms describe major functions of the human body. Can you describe the “action” these terms describe?

FORM

FUNCTION

Cells

Basic unit of life

Tissues

Cover, connect, carry messages, contact

Organs

Perform specific body functions: control vison, circulation, supply blood with oxygen, digestion, waste control, protection

Systems

Perform vital body functions; framework, movement, circulation, carry messages, supply food, eliminate waste, control breathing, control growth

Cranium

Protects brain

Thorax

Protects heart and lungs

Muscles

Movement, involvement in functions, support, contour

Heart

Forces blood through circulatory system

Blood

Circulates nourishment

Erythrocytes

Carry oxygen and protein (hemoglobin)

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F ORM FOLLOWS F U N C TI O N

78

Form

FUNCTION

Leukocytes

Fight bacteria

Thrombocytes

Clot blood

Arteries

Carry pure blood away from the heart

Veins

Carry blood from capillaries to heart

Capillaries

Carry nutrients and oxygen from arteries to cells

Carotid Arteries

Supply blood to head face and neck

Lymph System

Nourishes parts of body not reached by blood

Central Nervous System

Responsible for voluntary actions

Peripheral Nervous System

Carries messages to and from central nervous system

Trifacial Nerve

Transmits facial sensations to brain in chewing

Autonomic Nervous System

Responsible for involuntary function

Digestive System

Supplies food to body

Enzymes

Break down food

Excretory System

Eliminates waste products through body

Skin

Protects body; releases water, carbon dioxide and waste

Liver

Removes toxic byproducts

Kidneys

Eliminate water and waste

Respiratory System

Controls breathing

Lungs

Supply blood with oxygen

Diaphragm

Forces air into and out of lungs

Endocrine System

Controls growth and general health of body

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MEMORY JOGGER BY THE NUMBERS

The chapter on Anatomy and Physiology has several important numbers and measurements. Can you recall...? If not, look them up.

NUMBER/MEASUREMENT

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WHY IMPORTANT 3

_____________________ 5

The number of primary tissues

_____________________ 8

The number of primary organs

_____________________ 10

The number of vital body systems

_____________________ 206

The number of bones in the body

_____________________ 60 to 80 beats/minute

Normal heart rate

_____________________ 9 hours

Time it takes the body to complete digestion

_____________________ 8

The number of bones in the cranium

_____________________ 14

The number of facial bones

_____________________ more than 500

The number of muscles (large & small) in the body

_____________________ 44 to 48 ounces

Approximate weight of the human brain

_____________________ 31 pairs

The number of spinal nerves (pairs) in the spinal cord

_____________________ over 100

The number of lymph nodes

_____________________ 20 square feet

The number of square feet of body surface covered by the skin

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MATCHI N G Also Known As In this chapter many terms have a scientific name and a common name. Can you match the following? Place the number of the common name in the space next to the scientific name found on the right.

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COMMON NAME

SCIENTIFIC NAME

1. Spine

4 _____ Hyoid

2. Collar Bone

1 _____ Thoracic Vertebrae

3. Heart

3 _____ Cardiac Muscle

4. Adam’s Apple

5 _____ Anterior

5. Front

8 _____ Dilator

6. Layer

2 _____ Clavicle

7. Back

7 _____ Posterior

8. Open

6 _____ Superioris

9. Scalp

9 _____ Epicranium

10. Kissing Muscle

12 _____ Atrium

11. White Blood Cells

16 _____ Thrombocytes

12. Auricles

14 _____ Erythrocytes

13. Lymph-Vascular System

10 _____ Oris Oribicularis

14. Red Blood Cells

13 _____ Lymphatic System

15. Nerve Cells

11 _____ Leukocytes

16. Blood Platelets

15 _____ Neuron

17. Sensory Nerves

17 _____ Afferent Nerves

18. Trifacial Nerve

20 _____ Sympathetic Nervous System

19. Motor Nerve

19 _____ Efferent Nerves

20. Autonomic Nervous System

18 _____ Trigeminal Nerve

21. Vascular

21 _____ Circulatory

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

cells cells cells

tissues make organs tissues make organs tissues make organs

brain cell brain cell brain cell

relationship between cells,

3

tissues, organs and systems.

brain tissue brain tissue brain tissue

make tissues make tissues make tissues 1. 1. 2.1. 2. 3.2. 3. 4.3. 4. 5.4. 5. 6.5. 6. 7.6. 7. 7.

Describe in your own way the

brain brain brain

Right auricle Right auricle Rightventricl auriclee Right Right ventricle Right ventricl e Pulmonary artery Pulmonary artery Pulmonary Left auricle artery Left auricle Left auricle Aorta Aorta Aorta Circulates Circulates Circulates Returns to Superior Returns to Superior VReturns ena Cava Vena Cavato Superior Vena Cava

organs make systems organs make systems organs make systems

Draw a chart you can use to tell

77 4 74 4 5 22 55 2 11 1

temporal temporal temporal

33 3

others about the blood flow through the heart to the body and back.

6 6 6

1. Occipital allows 1. Occipital allows 1. decision Occipitalassistance allows decision assistance decision for shape assistance in cutting for shape in cutting for shape in cutting

parietal parietal parietal

frontal frontal frontal

Use examples.

nervous nervous system nervous system system

2. Width at parietal 2. Width at parietal 2. determines Width at parietal amount determines amount determines of weight andamount of weight and l a l t of weight and i where to begin where to begin ippitatal c where tonbegin projectio occi pi projection oc cci projection o

Select one of the visuals you reviewed in this chapter. Draw it here and label its parts with an explanation of why it is important for a cosmetologist to understand this information.

3. Frontal determines 3. Frontal determines 3. length Frontal of determines fringe length of fringe length of fringe

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the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

The basic units of living matter are ______________________________.

2.

Groups of cells of the same kind make up ______________________________.

3.

Separate body structures that perform specific functions are called ______________________________.

4.

Name the five primary types of tissues in the human body. ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________

5.

 group of body structures and/or organs that together perform one or more vital functions is a A ______________________________.

6.

F our functions of the ______________________________ system include supporting the body by giving it shape and strength, surrounding and protecting internal organs, providing a framework to which muscles can attach and allowing body movement.

7.

TRUE FALSE Bone is the hardest structure of the body with a composition of ⅔ mineral matter and ⅓ organic matter.

8. Flat bones are plate-shaped. Where are they located? ______________________________ 9. The study of the muscles is ______________________________. 10. What are the two types of muscle tissue? ______________________________ 11. The three parts of a muscle are its origin, its belly and its ______________________________. 12. The vascular or circulatory system controls the circulation of blood and ______________________________ through the body. 13. The system responsible for the circulation of blood which includes the heart, arteries, veins and capillaries is the ______________________________ system. 14. TRUE FALSE Arteries have thinner walls than veins because they carry oxygen-rich blood that is transferred to the cells throughout the body. 15. TRUE FALSE The lymph-vascular system is responsible for reaching parts of the body not reached by blood. 16. The study of the nervous system is known as ______________________________. 17. The primary components of the nervous system are ______________________________, ______________________________ and ______________________________. 18. The nervous system can be divided into three subsystems. They are ______________________________, ______________________________ and ___________________________________. 19. TRUE FALSE The nervous system coordinates and controls the overall operation of the human body.

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20.

Nerve cells, like any other cells in the body, have a nucleus, cytoplasm and cell membrane. They differ from other cells in the body in that they have threadlike fibers called _____________________.

21.

 he system that breaks food down into simpler compounds that can be easily absorbed by cells is the T ______________________________ system.

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22. TRUE FALSE Pepsin is an enzyme responsible for the breakdown of protein into polypeptide molecules and free amino acids, which are of particular importance to the production of hair, nails and skin. 23. The skin, liver and kidneys are all part of the ______________________________ system. 24. TRUE FALSE The largest organ of the body is the liver. 25. The system responsible for the intake of oxygen to be absorbed by the blood and the exhalation of carbon dioxide is the ______________________________ system. 26. T  he two main organs of the respiratory system are the ______________________________ and the ______________________________.

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27. A  carefully balanced mechanism that directly affects hair growth, skin conditions and energy levels is the ______________________________ system. 28. T  he two primary glands of the integumentary system are ______________________________ and ______________________________. 29. TRUE FALSE Ductless glands manufacture hormones that are secreted directly into the bloodstream.

MEMORY BOX

know chart



1. page 66



GOT IT NOT YET



2. page 67



GOT IT NOT YET

3. page 67



GOT IT NOT YET

4. page 67



GOT IT NOT YET

5. page 68



GOT IT NOT YET

6. page 69



GOT IT NOT YET

5.

system

7. page 69



GOT IT NOT YET

6.

skeletal

8. page 69



GOT IT NOT YET

7.

TRUE

9. page 72

GOT IT NOT YET

8.

the skull



9.

myology

10. page 72



GOT IT NOT YET

11. page 73



GOT IT NOT YET

12. page 77



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13. page 77



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14. page 78



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15. page 77



GOT IT NOT YET

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I KNOW: 1.

cells

2.

tissues

3.

organs

I NEED TO STUDY:

4. epithelial, connective, nerve, muscular, liquid

10. striated (voluntary), non-striated (involuntary)

7

11.

insertion

12.

lymph

13.

cardiovascular

1 4.

FALSE

1 5.

TRUE

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MEMORY BOX

know chart

16. page 81



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17. page 81



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16.

neurology



18. page 81



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17.

brain, spinal cord, nerves



19. page 81



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18. cerebrospinal, peripheral,



20. page 82



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19.

TRUE



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20.

axons



22. page 86



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21.

digestive



23. page 87



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22.

TRUE excretory



24. page 87

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23.



24.

FALSE



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25.

respiratory



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26.

lungs, diaphragm endocrine



27. page 88

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27.





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29. page 88



GOT IT NOT YET

I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

autonomic

28. sebaceous (oil), sudoriferous (sweat) 29.

TRUE

SHOW YOU KNOW... Using 20 of the terms found in this chapter and a minimum of 10 sentences, write a short story that includes your newly understood terms. Be creative and at the same time make sure everyone will understand the area of the body to which you might be referring. An example sentence is shown here to help spark your creativity. When you have completed your story, share it with a partner and see if he or she can interpret it back to you with a full understanding. Sample: As I combed my hair over my temporalis, I realized that the incident of hitting the door jam of the car had left a large bump on my frontal that extended to my parietal.

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 3, Anatomy and Physiology. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build selfconfidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

List the 3 basic

KNOW

parts of a cell.

Explain the relationship

Comprehend

between cells, tissues,

Apply

facial skeleton bones affected by massage.

Outline the functions

Analyze

of the muscular system.

Compare the responsibility of the lymph-vascular

Synthesize

system to the cardiovascular system.

Imagine you have tight or fatigued muscles. What effect could massage manipulations have on those muscles and why?

Evaluate

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3

4

3

Groups of cells make up tissues, two or more different tissues make up organs, and a group of body structures and/or organs make up systems.

organs and systems.

Distinguish 9 of the 14

1

The 3 basic parts of the cell are the nucleus, cytoplasm and cell membrane.

5

6

7

The nine bones of the facial skeleton distinguished by being affected by massage are the mandible, maxillae (two bones), nasal (two bones), zygomatic (two bones), and lacrimal (two bones). The remaining five facial skeleton bones unaffected by massage are the turbinal (two bones), vomer and palatine (two bones). The functions of the muscular system are support for the skeleton, production of body movement, contouring the body, and involvement in the functions of other body systems.

The responsibility of the cardiovascular system is to circulate blood to the body while the lymph-vascular system is responsible for supplying lymph to parts of the body not reached by blood.

Massage manipulations can stimulate sensitive nerve tissues resulting in nerve impulses that expand and contract corresponding muscles. Through this process, tight muscles can be relaxed; fatigued muscles can be soothed.

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BRAIN BUILDER

Questions help us think. Write a challenging question about four of the important words or phrases below and be prepared to answer it. (The following stems generate the most throught-provoking questions: Why does? Why are? What if? How would? Try them!) Then try your questions out on your friends. How well can they answer them?

• • • • • • •

Gross Anatomy Physiology Cytoplasm Organ Myology Trifacial Nerve Sudoriferous



BRAIN COND ITIO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. What is physiology? a. the study of the functions of organs and systems of the body b. the study of organs and systems of the body c. the study of structures that can be seen with the naked eye d. the study of structures too small to be seen 2. What is another name for histology? a. gross anatomy b. microscopic anatomy

c. osteology

d. physiology

3. Anatomy is the study of: a. small organisms b. the chemical properties of the hair c. the organs and systems of the body d. human relations 4. Which of the following terms is NOT a building block of the human body? a. cells b. tissues c. organs

d. muscles

5. Which of the following is NOT one of the three basic parts of the cell? a. nucleus b. cytoplasm c. nerve

d. cell membrane

6. Cells are composed of a gel-like substance called: a. an atom b. a molecule

d. cytoplasm

c. protoplasm

7. Which of the following descriptions is NOT an example of metabolism? a. building up of larger molecules from smaller ones b. controlling the basic functions and activities of the cell c. releasing energy to perform specific body functions d. breaking down of larger molecules or substances into small ones

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8. Most of the activities or production of the cell take place in the: a. nucleus b. cytoplasm c. stomach

d. cell membrane

9. The basic units of living matter are: a. nerves b. muscles

d. organs

c. cells

10. The control center of cell activities, including reproduction, is called the: a. cytoplasm b. cell membrane c. protoplasm

d. nucleus

11. What is the process of breaking down larger molecules into smaller ones called? a. anabolism b. catabolism c. cell division

d. erosion

12. The process of building up larger molecules from smaller ones is called: a. anabolism b. catabolism c. cell division

d. mutation

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13. The chemical process in which cells receive nutrients for all growth and reproduction is called: a. metabolism b. cell growth c. cell division d. protoplasm 14. All of the following statements are true about the nucleus EXCEPT: a. located in the cytoplasm b. coordinates body functions c. surrounded by cell membrane d. is the control center of cell activities 15. A separate body structure composed of cells of two or more different tissues is a(n): a. system b. tissue c. organ

d. muscle

16. Which type of tissue supports, protects and holds the body together? a. epithelial b. connective c. nerve

d. muscular

17. Groups of cells of the same kind make up: a. organs b. tissues

d. muscles

c. systems

18. Which tissue contracts when stimulated to produce motion? a. epithelial b. connective c. nerve 19. What is the role of epithelial tissue? a. contracts to produce motion c. supports, protects and holds the body together

d. muscular

b. carries messages to and from the brain d. covers and protects body surfaces and internal organs

20. All of the following are organs of primary importance EXCEPT the: a. eyes b. skeleton c. heart

d. brain

21. All of the following examples are bones of the cranium EXCEPT: a. frontal b. occipital c. temporal

d. metacarpal

22. Which of the following items is NOT a function of the skeletal system? a. allowing body movement b. producing red and white blood cells c. sending and receiving body messages d. surrounding and protecting internal organs 23. An example of a long bone would be the: a. humerus b. wrist bones

c. cervical vertebrae

d. mandible

24. The skeleton of the head that encloses and protects the brain and primary sensory organs is the: a. skull b. mandible c. thorax d. vertebrae 25. Which bone forms the back of the skull? a. occipital b. parietal

c. temporal

d. sphenoid

26. Which of the body’s systems has the function to give the body shape and strength? a. skeletal b. circulatory c. nervous

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d. endocrine

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27. How many bones of the cranium are affected by a scalp massage? a. 4 b. 6 c. 8

d. 14

28. What are the two bones that form the crown and upper sides of the head? a. frontal b. parietal c. temporal

d. ethmoid

29. Osteology is the study of: a. muscles b. nerves

d. organs

c. bones

30. The bone that is located behind the eyes and nose and connects all the bones to the cranium is the: a. temporal b. ethmoid c. occipital d. sphenoid 31. The spongy bone between the eyes which forms the nasal cavity is the: a. sphenoid b. temporal c. ethmoid

d. occipital

32. How many bones are involved in a facial massage? a. 8 b. 9

c. 12

d. 14

33. What is the largest bone of the facial skeleton? a. mandible b. maxillary

c. malar

d. palatine

34. Which of the following are two bones that join to form the bridge of the nose? a. nasal b. mandible c. zygomatic

d. lacrimal

35. What are the two bones of the upper jaw? a. maxillae b. turbinals

d. vomers

c. palatines

36. The smallest bones of the facial skeleton that form the front part of the inner, bottom wall of the eye socket are the: a. zygomatic b. nasal c. malar d. lacrimal 37. The thumb has how many phalanges? a. 2 b. 3

c. 4

d. 5

38. What is also known as the collar bone? a. thorax b. hyoid

c. clavicle

d. patella

39. Which of the following bones protects the heart, lungs and other internal organs? a. thorax b. hyoid c. spine

d. cranium

40. Eight carpals held together with ligaments form the carpus or the: a. knee b. elbow c. wrist

d. hand

41. The humerus is an example of what type of bone? a. flat b. long

d. short

c. irregular

42. The bone commonly referred to as the “Adam’s apple” is the: a. hyoid b. sternum c. thorax

d. clavicle

43. How many bones are included in the cervical vertebrae? a. 3 b. 6 c. 7

d. 9

44. Which muscle is the only one of its kind in the human body? a. striated b. non-striated c. involuntary

d. heart

45. Striated muscles can be described by which of the following statements? a. controlled by the autonomic nervous system b. respond to commands regulated by will c. involuntary muscles d. only found in the heart

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46. What term means “located above” or “is larger”? a. depressor b. dilator

c. superioris

d. inferioris

47. What term means “behind” or “in back of”? a. inferior b. posterior

c. depressor

d. anterior

48. Muscle makes up approximately what percentage of the body’s weight? a. 10 b. 20 c. 40

d. 70

49. Myology is the study of the: a. cells b. organs

d. skeleton

c. muscles

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50. The muscles that respond automatically to control various body functions are referrred to as: a. cardiac b. voluntary c. non-striated d. striated 51. What term means “in front of”? a. posterior b. superior

c. anterior

d. inferior

52. The muscle that raises eyebrows is the: a. auricularis anterior b. epicranius

c. frontalis

d. occipitalis

53. The portion of muscle joined to movable attachments, such as bones is the: a. origin b. belly c. insertion

d. ligament

54. Muscles affected by massage are generally manipulated from the: a. origin to insertion b. insertion to origin c. belly to insertion

d. insertion to belly

55. The non-moving portion of the muscle attached to bone or other fixed muscle is the: a. origin b. belly c. insertion d. synapse 56. The epicranium is covered by a large muscle called the: a. frontalis b. occipitalis c. auricularis

d. epicranius

57. The midsection of a muscle is called its: a. belly b. contraction point

c. origin

d. insertion

58. Which of the following is NOT a part of the muscle? a. pons b. belly

c. origin

d. insertion

59. When you raise your eyelid, which muscles are being used? a. orbicularis oculi b. auricularis posterior c. levator palpebrae superioris d. auricularis superior 60. Which muscle is being used when you wrinkle your chin? a. mentalis b. caninus c. triangularis

d. risorius

61. Which muscle circles the eye socket and closes the eyelid? a. corrugator b. orbicularis oculi c. auricularis

d. buccinator

62. Which muscle circles the mouth and is responsible for puckering and wrinkling the lips? a. risorius b. quadratus labii superioris c. oris orbicularis d. triangularis 63. Which muscle is responsible for compressing the cheek to release air outwardly, as in blowing? a. caninus b. buccinator c. triangularis d. risorius 64. When you laugh, you draw your mouth up and back by using which of these muscles? a. caninus b. zygomaticus c. buccinator d. risorius

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65. What are the deltoid muscles? a. muscles that extend across the chest b. muscles that cover the shoulders c. muscles located between the shoulder and the elbow d. muscles responsible for thumb movement 66. Which system involves the heart, arteries, veins and capillaries? a. respiratory b. cardiovascular c. digestive

d. muscular

67. What nourishes the parts of the body not reached by blood? a. hemoglobin b. platelets c. lymph

d. carbon dioxide

68. Which muscles are used to separate the fingers? a. adductor b. abductor

d. flexor

c. extensor

69. A normal adult heart beats about how many times per minute? a. 40 to 50 b. 50 to 60 c. 60 to 80

d. 100 to 120

70. Which of the following phrases describes the function of white corpuscles? a. increase in number when there is an infection b. carry oxygen c. clot the blood d. carry carbon dioxide 71. Which of the following terms is another name for white blood cells? a. leukocytes b. thrombocytes c. erythrocytes

d. red corpuscles

72. An adult human has how much blood circulating throughout the body? a. 4 to 6 pints b. 4 to 6 quarts c. 8 to 10 pints

d. 8 to 10 quarts

73. What are thrombocytes? a. blood platelets

d. carbon dioxide removers

b. oxygen carriers

74. What does hemoglobin do? a. reacts with oxygen to create red blood cells c. attracts oxygen

c. hemoglobin carriers

b. repels oxygen d. changes oxygen into carbon dioxide

75. Thick-walled vessels that carry blood away from the heart are: a. arteries b. veins c. lymph vessels

d. capillaries

76. Which of the following is true of arteries? a. Arteries contain cup-like valves to prevent backflow c. Arteries carry oxygen-poor blood

b. Arteries have thicker walls than veins d. Arteries are thin, small vessels

77. The fluid part of the blood is called: a. hemoglobin b. red blood cells

c. white blood cells

d. plasma

78. Cells that fight bacteria and other foreign substances are called leukocytes or: a. red blood cells b. plasma c. white blood cells

d. hemoglobin

79. The entire process of blood traveling from the heart, throughout the body and back to the heart is called: a. systemic or general circulation b. massive circulation c. local circulation d. arterial circulation 80. Which of the following vessels take waste products from the cells to the veins? a. capillaries b. arteries c. veins

d. varicose veins

81. Blood travels from the heart to the lungs by way of the: a. super vena cava b. aorta c. pulmonary vein

d. pulmonary artery

82. What refers to the phase of circulation in which the blood is oxygenated in the lungs? a. respiration b. pulmonary circulation c. interior circulation d. general circulation

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83. Oxygen-poor blood enters which part of the heart? a. right auricle b. left auricle

c. pulmonary vein

d. left ventricle

84. Which artery supplies the lower portion of the face, including the mouth and nose? a. superficial temporal b. posterior auricular c. occipital

d. external maxillary

85. Which arteries supply blood to the face, head and neck? a. internal jugulars b. external jugulars c. posterior auriculars

d. common carotid arteries

86. What controls all three subsystems of the nervous system? a. brain b. eyes c. lungs

d. heart

87. What is the study of the nervous system called? a. neurology b. philosophy

d. physiology

c. anatomy

88. The brain, nerves and spinal cord are primary components of what system? a. circulatory b. muscular c. skeletal

d. nervous

89. The average human brain weighs between: a. 20 and 24 ounces b. 44 and 48 ounces

d. 100 and 120 ounces

c. 60 and 68 ounces

3

90. The brain, spinal cord and spinal and cranial nerves make up the: a. central nervous system b. peripheral nervous system c. autonomic nervous system d. sympathetic nervous system 91. Which system is responsible for all voluntary body actions? a. autonomic nervous system b. dendrites c. axons d. central nervous system 92. What is the substance that travels through glands or nodes to help filter out toxic substances? a. lymph b. hemoglobin c. keratin d. oxygen 93. The spinal cord holds how many pairs of spinal nerves that branch out to muscles, internal organs and the skin? a. 12 b. 14 c. 31 d. 206 94. Which system is composed of sensory and motor nerves that extend from the spinal cord and brain to other parts of the body? a. peripheral nervous system b. autonomic nervous system c. zygomatic nervous system d. cerebrum 95. What connects the other parts of the brain to the spinal column? a. cerebrum b. cerebellum c. pons

d. clavicle

96. What is the part of the brain responsible for mental activity and is located in the upper front portion of the cranium? a. cerebrum b. cerebellum c. pons d. medulla oblongata 97. Another name for a nerve cell is: a. neuron b. dendrite

c. axon

d. cerebrum

98. Nerves that perform both sensory and motor functions are called: a. afferent nerves b. efferent nerves c. mixed nerves

d. central nerves

99. How many pairs of cranial nerves are there? a. 12 b. 18

c. 24

d. 36

100. Another name for a sensory nerve is: a. dendrite nerve b. axon

c. afferent nerve

d. efferent nerve

101. Which nerves determine the sense of smell, touch, sight, hearing and taste? a. dendrite b. motor c. sensory

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d. axon

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102. The cranial nerve responsible for transmitting facial sensations to the brain is the: a. trifacial b. facial c. radial

d. ulnar

103. Which of the following nerves is the primary motor nerve of the face? a. fifth b. seventh c. ulnar

d. radial

104. Which of the following terms is NOT associated with the functions found within the nervous system? a. motor b. mixed c. deltoid d. sensory 105. The posterior auricular, temporal and zygomatic are all branches of which nerve? a. buccal b. cervical c. mandibular

d. facial

106. The digestive, respiratory and circulatory systems are controlled by the: a. ophthalmic branch b. autonomic nervous system c. voluntary nervous system

d. skeletal system

107. Which of the following examples is NOT a primary nerve found in the arm and hand? a. ulnar b. radial c. buccal d. digital 108. Peristalsis refers to: a. a blister from a severe burn c. the breakdown of food by enzymes

b. the motion of the esophagus when swallowing d. the elimination of waste products from the body

109. Finger-like projections of the intestine walls are called: a. villi b. peristalsis c. cilia

d. enzymes

110. The digestive system includes all of the following components EXCEPT: a. pharynx b. stomach c. diaphragm

d. esophagus

111. Which body system breaks food down into simpler chemical compounds that can easily be absorbed by cells? a. digestive b. lymph c. excretory d. respiratory 112. The system that eliminates solid, liquid and gaseous waste products from the body is the: a. digestive b. excretory c. endocrine d. respiratory 113. Nephrons would be associated with which of the following organs? a. lungs b. liver c. heart

d. kidney

114. The system responsible for taking in oxygen and exhaling carbon dioxide is the: a. circulatory system b. excretory system c. endocrine system

d. respiratory system

115. The largest organ of the body is the: a. skin b. liver

d. stomach

c. brain

116. The endocrine system is responsible for: a. eliminating waste products from the body b. producing hormones required by the body c. carrying lymph to parts of the body not reached by the circulatory system d. building larger molecules from smaller ones 117. What converts and neutralizes ammonia from the circulatory system to urea? a. liver b. skin c. heart

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118. All of the following are organs of the excretory system EXCEPT: a. skin b. lungs c. liver

d. kidneys

119. The skin and all of its layers make up which of the following sytems? a. integumentary b. excretory c. endocrine

d. respiratory

120. A sebaceous gland is part of which body system? a. respiratory b. digestive

d. integumentary

c. nervous

3

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.

1. page 65

16. page 67



31. page 70

46. page 72



2. page 65

17. page 67

32. page 70

47. page 72



3. page 65

18. page 67

33. page 70

48. page 72



4. page 65

19. page 67

34. page 70

49. page 72



5. page 66

20. page 67

35. page 70

50. page 72



6. page 66

21. page 69

36. page 70

51. page 72



7. page 66

22. page 69

37. page 71

52. page 73



8. page 66

23. page 69

38. page 71

53. page 73



9. page 66

24. page 69

39. page 71

54. page 73

10. page 66

25. page 69

40. page 71

55. page 73



11. page 66

26. page 69

41. page 71

56. page 73

12. page 66

27. page 69

42. page 71

57. page 73



13. page 66

28. page 69

43. page 71

58. page 73

14. page 66

29. page 69

44. page 72

59. page 74

15. page 67

30. page 70

45. page 72

60. page 74

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final review continued

94

61.

page 74

76.

page 78

91.

page 81

106.

page 85

62.

page 74

77.

page 78

92.

page 81

107.

page 85

63.

page 75

78.

page 78

93.

page 82

108.

page 86

64.

page 75

79.

page 79

94.

page 82

109.

page 86

65.

page 76

80.

page 79

95.

page 82

110.

page 86

66.

page 77

81.

page 79

96.

page 82

111.

page 86

67.

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ANATOMY

notes to myself

AND

P HYSIO LO GY

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Anatomy and Physiology:

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L essons learned • The building blocks of the human body include cells that make up tissues, tissues that make up organs and organs that make up systems. • Th e skeletal system supports the body, surrounds and protects internal organs, provides a frame to which muscles can attach and allows body movement. • Th e muscular system supports the skeleton, produces body movements, contours the body and aids in the functions of other body systems. • Th e circulatory system controls the circulation of blood and lymph through the body. • Th e nervous system coordinates and controls the overall operation of the human body by receiving and interpreting stimuli and sending messages away from the nerve cells to the appropriate tissues, muscles and organs.

things to do

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C HA PTER 4

ELECTRICITY VALUE Understanding the basics of electricity enables you to serve your clients efficiently and safely, especially when working with electrotherapy and specialized electrical appliances.

MAIN IDEA Electricity is a fundamental tool for safe and efficient treatments and services for clients.

PLAN

4 .1 pr i n cipl es of el ectricity Vocabulary of Elec tricity Elec tric Current S a fety Measures

4 . 2 E L E CTR ICITY in cosmetology E f fec ts of Elec tric Current E l ec trotherapy Lig ht Therapy

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EL EC T RIC IT Y

sm a r tN OT ES 4.1 P rinciples of e lectri c i t y

p age s 9 1 - 93

Vocabulary of Electricity Electricity Electrons Current Load Conductors

Insulators

Cord Safety

Form of energy - produces light, heat, magnetic and chemical changes Flow of tiny, negatively charged particles

Materials that best transport electricity to a load • Silver and copper are best (containing ions) • Water and human body are conductors Materials that do not allow current to pass through them; protect user from current • Silk, wood, plastic, rubber, glass, paper, brick, cloth, alcohol, oil and pure distilled water Cord = copper wire insulated with rubber; keep cords free of kinks to prevent breaks which might cause electric shock

Measures of Electricity

Amp

PRESSURE

Power box to house supplies amps

Measures how hard electrons are pushed by source

Amp rating show how much strength

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Volt

STRENGTH

Conductors carry limited number of amps

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Flow of electrons along a path called a conductor Electrically-powered appliances (blow dryer, curling iron)

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110 or 220V 220 has “V” prongs on plug Large motors need 220

Ohm RESISTANCE (impedance) Measures how difficult it is to push electrons through a conductor OHM’s rating= resistance of motion of electrons

Watt

H ertz

AMOUNT USED

FREQUENCY

1 watt is small amount of energy

Hertz=Hz

Blow dryer = 1,000 watts per second

Nameplate gives listing of Hz

1,000 watts= kilowatt

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sm a r tN OT ES 4.1 P rinciples of e lectri c i t y Electric Current DC AC

Sources of Electricity

p age s 9 3 - 9 5

Exists in two forms: DC = Direct Current - electrons move at an even rate; flow is in one direction AC = Alternating Current - electrons flow first in one direction and then in the other Converter changes DC to AC; rectifier changes AC to DC

DIFFERENCES G E NE R ATOR

Produces alternating current • Most often used in salon • • Uses mechanical energy to produce flow of electrons

Frequency

How Electric Current is Produced

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Circuit is Closed

Generator (Source)

Circuit is Open

Outlet

Generator (Source)

Outlet

Circuit

• Has a positive (+) and negative (-) terminal • Produces direct current only • Electrons flow toward positive terminal

Cycles per second (switching from positive to negative)

Must have a source and circuit

Closed path through which electrons travel

Closed

Open

Electrons leave the source

Broken path of electron flow

Switch is On

Switch is Off

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BAT T E RY

and operate an appliance

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sm a r tN OT ES 4.1 P rinciples of e lectri c i t y Parallel Wiring Series Wiring Overload Short Circuit Safety Devices

p age s 95 - 9 7

Several loads can operate at once or at different times; use parallel wiring in salon All loads must run at the same time More current flows than the line is designed to carry A “foreign conductor” comes in contact with wire carrying current to a load, e.g., dropping blow dryer in water Fuse: keep ample supply on hand; know where fuse box is

4

Circuit breaker: label each circuit; know where power box is; keep flashlight handy

Safety Measures Fuse

Circuit Breaker

Grounding Wire (3-wire system)

• directly Protects Connects • directly Connects • user with the circuits in certain the circuits in to to appliances power box the power box the • Prevents excess • • Reusable device Contains fine, flow of current that breaks flow from metal wire that going to user current when allows current to of • flow through it overload occurs 3-prongs, round connects one • pieces of • grounded 2 Overload = to melted wire metal make wall socket contact—separate • Fuse can NOT if circuit is broken be reused

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sm a r tN OT ES 4.1 P rinciples of e lectri c i t y First Aid for Shock









p a ge 9 8



 Step 3: Rush to the power box and turn off all circuit breakers

Step  2: Unplug the appliance using an insulator to avoid circuit Step 1:

Knock person out of circuit by using the insulator; broom an or plastic pail Local Shock Procedure

Passes through small part of body: • Immerse burn in cold water immediately • If severe - take to hospital • If minor, keep immersed until cold and swelling stopped • Blot dry and apply antiseptic cream

General Shock Procedure

Passes through nervous system: First: • Break the circuit before touching person; dial 911 Then: • Start CPR; continue with CPR until emergency team arrives • Turn off the circuit • Smother the fire with rug, towel or powder

Electrical Fires Emergency Procedures

Remember: NO WATER

Turn • off the circut Smother • the fire with rug, towel or powder

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EL EC T RIC IT Y

Electricity by U se in the S alon Thermal/Heat Examples:

Combination Examples:

Mechanical Examples:

• Curling Irons - Generate heat

• Blow dryers - Generate heat and produce flow of air

• Clippers - Have a motor

4

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Blow dryer falls into water Curling iron burns the skin Broken cord on curling iron gives stylist a local shock

Describe in your own way three common electrical accidents that could happen in the salon.



STOP

Stop the electrical flow Using words and symbols,







Smother the glow

make a sign for emergency procedures for electrical fires. Explain your sign to a friend or



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Never, never use H2O!

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family member.

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sm a r tN OT ES 4.2 Electricity in Cos metology Effects of Electric Current

H E ATING More resistance = more heat

p ages 9 9 - 1 0 1

MECHANICAL OR MAGNETIC

ELECTROCHEMICAL

Push-pull effect causes motor to turn

Electric current travels through a water-based solution to produce relaxing or stimulating effects

Heating elements heat up when current flows through

Electrotherapy Electrode

Galvanic Current

Phoresis (Bleaching)

Application of special currents (modalities) that have certain effects on the skin

Safe contact point through which current can pass to client Oldest • form of electrotherapy • Appliance necessary to convert AC to DC • Direct current - low volt and high amp  •  Chemical effects caused by passing current through acid or alkaline solutions and/or by passing current through body tissues and fluids

Process of forcing an acid or alkali into the skin by applying current to the chemical Most typical application of Galvanic Current

A LERT A person with any potentially restrictive medical condition should always consult a physician before receiving electrotherapy treatment.

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sm a r tN OT ES 4.2 Electr icity in Cos metology Anaphoresis

Negative pole of Galvanic Current

Cataphoresis

Positive pole of Galvanic Current

Galvanic Current Electrotherapy Iontophoreses

Faradic Current

Sinusoidal Current Tesla Current

A NA P HOR E SIS

CATA P HOR ES IS

negative (-) pole Produces alkaline reaction Increases blood flow Softens tissues Stimulates nerves

positive (+) pole Produces acidic reaction Slows blood flow Hardens tissues Soothes nerves

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Active electrode applied to client; client holds inactive electrode; both active and inactive electrodes should be wrapped in moist cotton Introduces water-soluble products into the skin; desincrustation Alternating current; produces mechanical effect; stimulates nerve and muscle tissue Improved blood circulation; improved muscle tone; stimulation of hair growth; increased glandular activity Alternating current; mechanical effect; penetrates deeper-greater stimulation High frequency current “violet ray”; alternating current; different voltages produce heat; can offer stimulation or relaxation Improved blood circulation; increased rate metabolism; increased sebaceous of gland activity

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A LERT Do not use the Galvanic Current over an area that has many broken capillaries.

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sm a r tN OT ES 4.2 Electricity in Cos metology

p ages 1 0 5 - 1 0 8

WEB Tesla Current Precautions Begin with mild current, increase slowly; keep client out of contact with metal during treatment; limit treatment to 5 minutes; cream used can not contain alcohol; turn current on after client is holding electrode, turn off before removing electrode

Galvanic Current Precautions Never take current over 1 milliampere Make sure current is off before indirect application and before breaking contact with client

Faradic Current Precautions Never take current over 1 milliampere Make sure current is off before indirect application and before breaking contact with client

Topic Electrotherapy Sinusoidal Current Precautions Never take current over 1 milliampere

Make sure current is off before indirect application and before breaking contact with client Treatments should not exceed 30 minutes

General Precautions

Heat Energy

Always read manufacturer’s directions Electrodes should never touch each other Conduction, convection , radiation relaxes increase Mild - muscles, causes blood circulation to destroys Intense - cells and tissues

Benefits of Light Therapy Production of beneficial effects on the body through treatment using light rays or waves

Ultraviolet Light Short penetrating light rays known as actinic rays. Produces both positive and negative effects on the skin; depending on the exposure time. Small doses of UV light can tan the skin; UV light is germicidal and can kill bacteria that cause skin infections

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Visible Light red = longest waves; violet = shortest; fluorescent - economical; problem for hair color, blue or cool tones; incandescent - light bulb; closest sub for natural sunlight

Topic Light Therapy

Invisible Light 80% = Infrared 8% = Ultraviolet 12% = Visible Rays

Infrared Light Exposure times range from 5 to 15 minutes. Place light at least 30 inches from the client’s face. Cover the client’s eyes with eye pads or protective eye forms

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EL EC T RIC IT Y

think ing map Now that you have filled in your SmartNotes for “Electricity,” create a Thinking Map to help yourself make sense of how your SmartNotes fit together. Use some or all of the words in the Jump Start Box as well as your own words and pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this chapter to each other. Be creative!

4

electricity

jump start box circuit fuse local Shock electricity volt thermal general electrification watt overloading 3-wire system

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general shock short circuit source mechanical heating effects light therapy ohm heat circuit breaker combination galvanic

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amp direct application electrotherapy faradic load open Circuit electrochemical effects current battery Tesla

insulators mechanical or magnetic effects generator indirect application force sinusoidal conductors grounding wire

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4

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

Electricity is a form of energy that produces ____________________, ____________________, ____________________ and ____________________ changes.

2.

What are the two forms of electricity, both of which are used in a salon?____________________ ____________________.

3.

Two common sources of electricity are ____________________ and ____________________.

4.

The three kinds of effects that can be created by electric current during cosmetology services are ____________________, ____________________ and ____________________.

5.

TRUE FALSE Galvanic Current is the only form of electrotherapy that uses direct current and has an electrochemical effect.

6.

The process of forcing acid or alkali solutions into the skin by applying current to the solution is known as ____________________.

7.

What percentage of sunlight is composed of invisible rays beyond red, called infrared? ____________________

8. Benefits derived from using ____________________ light include increased circulation, increased skin gland secretions, and relaxation of muscles. Small doses of ultraviolet light can tan the skin and may help the body produce ____________________.

9.

10. TRUE FALSE Ultraviolet rays are the least penetrating light rays in the spectrum; therefore, there is no danger of overexposure.

know chart

MEMORY BOX

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I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. light, heat, magnetic, chemical 2. alternating current, direct current 3. batteries, generators 4. heating, electro-chemical, mechanical or magnetic 5. TRUE 6. phoresis 7. 80% 8. infrared 9. Vitamin D 10. FALSE

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SHOW YOU KNOW... You are teaching a group of young adults safety measures. Your next topics are local and general shock. Create a poem, a song or a catchy poster that will help your class remember the steps for local or general shock safety precautions.

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 4, Electricity. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

What is the definition

KNOW

Electricity is defined as a form of energy that produces light, heat, magnetic and chemical changes.

of electricity?

What is the difference

Comprehend

between alternating and direct current?

If a fire results from an overload of an electric

Apply

circuit and an appliance melts and burns, how

The difference between alternating and direct current is that in alternating current the electrons flow first in one direction and then the other, and in direct current the electrons move at an even rate and flow in only one direction.

If a fire results from an overload of an electric circuit and an appliance melts and burns, I would react by turning off the circuit, smothering the fire with a rug, heavy towel, powder, laundry detergent or fire extinguisher.

would you respond?

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KNOWLEDGE GRID

4

continued

Distinguish between

Analyze

heat, mechanical and electrochemical effects.

In your own words,

Synthesize

generate a response to identify the benefits of

Heat, mechanical and electrochemical effects are distinguished by drag or friction in the line to produce heat, positive and negative polarity to produce mechanical effect and electric current passing through a water-based solution to produce electrochemical effects.

The benefits of using infrared light include increased circulation and skin gland secretions, relaxation of muscles and stimulation of cell and tissue activity.

using infrared light.

Justify the need for

Evaluate

salons to have both incandescent and fluorescent lighting.

Salons need to have both incandescent and fluorescent lighting because incandescent balances the tones of light and is the closest substitute for natural light, while fluorescent is long-lasting and more economical than incandescent.

BR AIN BUILD ER

Questions help us think. Write a challenging question about four of the important words or phrases below and be prepared to answer it. (The following stems generate the most thought-provoking questions: Why does? Why are? What if? How would? Try them!) Then try your questions out on your friends. How well can they answer them?

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• Current



• • • • • •

Conductor Insulator Circuit Breaker Electrotherapy Tesla Light Therapy

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BRAIN CON D IT ION ER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. Light, heat, chemical and magnetic changes are all produced by: a. electricity b. short circuit c. force

d. conductors

2. The movement of electricity along a conductor is called: a. voltage b. wattage c. electric current

d. magnetic conductance

3. What is the technical name for any electrically powered appliance? a. force b. closed circuit c. load

d. short circuit

4. Since silver and copper transport electricity easily, they are called: a. insulators b. conductors c. electrons

d. closed circuits

5. Materials such as glass, rubber or paper that do not allow electricity to flow through them are called: a. insulators b. conductors c. open circuits d. closed circuits 6. An ampere is a unit of electric: a. pressure b. strength

c. resistance

d. frequency

7. A volt is a unit of electric: a. pressure b. strength

c. resistance

d. frequency

8. Which of the following materials does NOT allow a current to pass through it? a. metal b. water c. carbon

d. alcohol

9. A unit of electrical resistance is called a(n): a. ohm b. watt

d. volt

c. insulator

4

10. The measure of how difficult it is to push electrons through a conductor is called: a. resistance b. amperage c. voltage d. wattage 11. The measure of how much electrical energy is being used is called a(n): a. volt b. watt c. ohm d. ampere 12. A constant electrical current flowing in one direction is called a(n): a. Sinusoidal Current b. alternating current c. Faradic Current d. direct current 13. What changes direct current into alternating current? a. rectifier b. converter c. meter

d. circuit breaker

14. Electric current that flows first in one direction and then the other is called: a. direct current b. alternating current c. Galvanic Current d. incandescent current 15. What changes alternating current into direct current? a. converter b. rectifier c. circuit breaker

d. short circuit

16. The power source used most often in a salon is a: a. battery b. wall outlet c. generator

d. switch

17. The very minimum ampere rating of a circuit operating a single 1,000-watt blow dryer would be: a. 1 ampere b. 10 amperes c. 60 amperes d. 120 amperes

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18. If appliances are causing more current to flow than what the circuit is designed to carry, what could occur? a. overloading b. downsizing c. converting d. rectifying 19. A closed path through which electrons travel is referred to as a: a. circuit b. short circuit c. source

d. resistance

20. Which of the following actions would be an example of closing a circuit? a. turning on a light switch b. turning off a circuit breaker c. blowing a fuse d. unplugging a lamp 21. Dropping an electrical appliance into water is an example of: a. overloading b. open circuit c. closed circuit

d. short circuit

22. What is the name of a device with a fine metal wire running through it which will melt and open the circuit if too much current is flowing through it? a. circuit breaker b. resistor c. fuse d. grounding wire 23. What is a device used to protect a circuit from being overloaded? a. ground wire b. on-off switch c. rectifier

d. circuit breaker

24. A special wire used on some appliances for conducting high and sudden flows of electric current out of the appliance is called a: a. positive wire b. negative wire c. grounding wire d. fuse 25. What type of shock passes through the nervous system? a. local b. general c. direct

d. indirect

26. Which of the following methods is NOT recommended for extinguishing an electrical fire? a. use a fire extinguisher b. pour water on it c. smother it with a towel d. pour corn starch on it 27. Curling irons and heat lamps are examples of which type of electrically powered equipment? a. thermal b. mechanical c. combination d. electrochemical 28. What does a local shock do? a. causes the heart to stop c. passes through a small part of the body

b. causes breathing to halt d. always requires medical attention

29. Using electric clippers in cosmetology work would be an example of which kind of electrical effect? a. heating b. mechanical c. electrochemical d. electrochemical and heating 30. Which of the following steps should NOT be followed to break the circuit when a person comes into contact with an electric current? a. unplug the appliance b. turn off all the circuit breakers c. touch the person to ground the circuit d. knock the person out of the circuit using an insulator 31. The application of special electric currents that have certain effects on the skin is known as: a. cosmetology b. chemotherapy c. shock therapy d. electrotherapy 32. Which of the following currents is an example of low-voltage direct current and high amps? a. Faradic b. Sinusoidal c. Tesla d. Galvanic 33. In order to apply special currents to the skin, what device is used to reduce the current from a typical 120-volt power source to a level safely handled by the human body? a. rectifier b. converter c. wall plate d. electrode

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34. When performing an electrotherapy procedure, what apparatus or current conductor is used to bring the current from the appliance to the client’s skin? a. resistor b. watt c. wall plate d. electrode 35. The oldest form of electrotherapy used in the salon is: a. Galvanic Current b. Tesla Current c. Sinusoidal Current

d. Faradic Current

36. What is the type of current that has an electrochemical effect? a. Tesla b. Faradic c. Galvanic d. Sinusoidal 37. Which of the following statements is NOT true about the anode? a. shows a large “P” b. is usually colored red c. is usually colored black d. shows a positive sign 38. Which process uses a negative pole or electrode to force negatively charged (alkaline) solutions into the skin without breaking the skin? a. anaphoresis b. cataphoresis c. Faradic therapy d. Sinusoidal therapy 39. Which process uses the positive electrode to force acidic solutions into the skin without breaking the skin? a. anaphoresis b. cataphoresis c. Faradic therapy d. Tesla therapy

4

40. Which of the following statements is NOT true about cataphoresis? a. slows the blood flow b. soothes nerves c. softens tissues and opens pores d. decreases redness of simple blemishes 41. What process can use either the negative or positive pole to introduce water-soluble treatment products to the skin? a. anaphoresis b. cataphoresis c. iontophoresis d. Faradic therapy 42. Which of the following descriptions is NOT a temporary effect of the positive pole of Galvanic Current? a. softens tissues b. soothes nerves c. produces an acidic reaction d. slows blood flow by contracting the vessels 43. Which of the following statements is NOT true about a positive pole of Galvanic Current? a. soothes nerves b. produces an acidic reaction c. opens pores after facial treatment d. slows the blood flow by contracting the vessels 44. What type of electrotherapy current is considered superior to Faradic Current therapy because it penetrates more deeply? a. Tesla b. direct current c. Galvanic d. Sinusoidal 45. Which of the following items would be used during a Faradic Current treatment? a. amperages of more than 1 milliampere b. 120 volts c. direct method d. indirect method 46. High Frequency and alternating current are characteristics of which type of electrotherapy? a. Tesla b. direct current c. Galvanic d. Sinusoidal 47. A benefit of Tesla Current therapy may include: a. improved muscle tone c. soothed nerves

b. stimulation of hair growth d. improved blood circulation

48. Which of the following benefits is NOT believed to be derived through application of the High Frequency current? a. improved blood circulation b. increased rate of metabolism c. decreased rate of metabolism d. increased sebaceous glandular activity

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49. The maximum amount of current used in a Galvanic treatment should not exceed: a. 1 milliampere b. 1 ampere c. 2 amperes d. 10 amperes 50. Tesla treatments should be limited to no more than how many minutes in duration? a. 1 b. 5 c. 10 d. 30 51. The chemical breakdown of the skin caused by intense heat is called: a. psoriasis b. pyrolysis c. melting d. vaporizing 52. The portion of the electromagnetic spectrum that humans can see is called: a. visible light b. infrared light c. ultraviolet light d. X-rays 53. White light can be broken down into its individual wavelengths by the use of a: a. rectifier b. converter c. prism d. fluorescent light 54. Which type of light can create blue or cool tones? a. fluorescent b. incandescent c. sunlight

d. invisible

55. Which of the following types of light carries the most energy? a. ultraviolet b. violet c. infrared d. red 56. Which of the following types of light has the shortest wavelength? a. ultraviolet b. violet c. infrared d. red 57. What light creates the closest substitute for natural sunlight? a. fluorescent b. red c. violet d. incandescent 58. Bacteria that cause skin infections can be killed by which kind of light? a. incandescent b. fluorescent c. infrared d. ultraviolet 59. Small doses of ultraviolet light may help the body produce: a. Vitamin A b. Vitamin B c. Vitamin C d. Vitamin D 60. Which of the following effects is NOT a benefit of using infrared light during a facial? a. increased circulation b. relaxation of muscles c. increased skin gland secretions d. decreased skin gland secretion

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.

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EL EC T RIC IT Y

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notes to myseLf

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Electricity:

Lessons learned • Using electricity safely ensures the well-being of the salon professional and the client. • Electric current may result in heat, mechanical or magnetic and electrochemical effects. • Electric currents used during electrotherapy and light therapy treatments include Galvanic Current to produce chemical effects, Faradic and Sinusoidal Currents to produce mechanical, non-chemical reactions and Tesla Current to produce heat.

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C HA PTER 5

chemistry VALUE

5

Chemistry helps you use a variety of products to improve the personal well-being of your client.

MAIN IDEA Marketing products, making sound decisions about services and guarding your client’s safety all require some knowledge of chemistry.

PLAN

5 .1 M ATTE R

E l ements C hemic al Bonds

5 . 2 t h e ph scal e

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.1 M atter

p ages 1 1 1 - 1 1 2

Matter

Necessarythat for aoccupies healthy,space; happyexists life in 3 forms Anything

Three Forms

Solids 6-8 hours - weight, of sleep volume, necessary shape to prevent fatigue Liquids - weight, volume, no shape Gases - weight, indefinite volume and shape

ORG A NIC INORG Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better A NIC

O

H

H

O

O

Stimulates bloodthat circulation Matter is now living Encourages proper functioning or alive at one time, e.g., of organs

Matter that is NOT alive or has never

plants and animals

e.g., rocks, water, minerals

H H

H

H

H

been alive; does not contain carbon,

H

O

O H H

H

O O H

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

Changes in Matter

P HYSICA L

CHE MICA L

Change the characteristics

A change in a substance that creates

without making a new

a new substance with chemical

substance, e.g., ice melting

characteristics different from

Science that deals with healthful living

those of the original substance

Properties

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1. 2. 3. 4.

Color Odor Weight (density) Hardness or softness

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.1 M atter

p age s 1 1 2 - 1 1 4

Elements

Basic substances that cannot be broken down into simpler substances All matter Impure is composed air ventilation of atoms, which make up elements

Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfectionEpractices Nu mber l emen t



Improper storage or use of food

Sy mbol

Form

1 Hydrogen H Bad breath halitosis =6 Carbon C

GAS SOLID

Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh 7 Nitrogen N

GAS

8 Oxygen O

GAS

16 Sulfur S Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

SOLID

5

Remember COHNS - elements that make up hair Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Atoms 3 Parts of Atom

Smallest complete unit and of an Good nutrition, exercise restelement = healthy glowing skin proton positive electrical charge (+) - gives atom its name

CARBON ATOM (C) NO. 6

neutron

no electrical charge - determines the weight of an atom - neutral

6 Negative Electrons 6 Neutral Neutrons

6 Positive Protons

 electron negative electrical charge (-) - makes it possible for atoms to combine with other atoms to form bonds Foundation should always match skin tone

Molecule

Two or more atoms together by a chemical bond Contouring with lightsjoined – broadens Unstable atoms chemically by sharing electrons Contouring with combine darks – diminishes

Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Solid - Desk

Describe the three forms of matter...

Liquid - Water Gas - Air we breathe

Carbon Oxygen and the elements that make up hair.

Hydrogen Nitrogen Sulfur CARBON ATOM (C) NO. 6

Draw an atom. Compare your drawing with a friend’s.

6 Negative Electrons 6 Neutral Neutrons

6 Positive Protons

M ATCHI N G

118

1. Change in a substance’s characteristics without making a new substance

5 _____ atom

2. Negative electrical charge

4 _____ matter

3. C  hange in a substance that creates a new substance, new characteristics

1 _____ physical change

4. Anything that occupies space

2 _____ electron

5. Smallest complete unit of an element

3 _____ chemical change

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.1 matter

p age s 1 1 4 - 1 1 7

Chemical Bonds

_______ Atoms combine chemically to create compounds that eventually create protein of hair Impure air ventilation

Amino Acids Protein

Hydrogen Bond

Inadequate lighting

Compounds of C, O, H, Npractices - 22 common amino acids; join together in chains to Improper disinfection make __________ Improper proteinsstorage or use of food Hair is made up of protein called _________ Bad breath = halitosis keratin Hair is 97%healthy keratinteeth and and 3% keeping trace materials Maintaining breath fresh Hair contains 19 of 22 common amino acids

5

The atomsoap in one is attracted to an atom of another molecule Bathehydrogen regularly using andmolecule use deodorant that has many negative ___________; hair has many hydrogen bonds, which are electrons individually very weak and can easily be ________ broken by heat or water Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Salt Bond

This is a result ofand the rest ____________ of unlike attraction Goodbond nutrition, exercise = healthy glowing skin charges; the negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another amino acid grouping

Disulfide Bond

A chemical bond that forms between protein structures; sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains; they form the disulfide bond

van der Waal’s Forces

Atomic groups prefer an match environment Foundation should always skin tonewith other groups that have structures _________ to theirs similar with Contouring lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.1 matter End Bonds (Peptide Bonds) Side Bonds

p ages 1 1 5 - 1 1 7 Necessary of foralla protein healthy, molecules; happy life link the amino acid protein chains together Backbone end to end; do not disturb the end bond 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue Link the long spiraling protein chains together; hydrogen, salt, disulfide, van der Waal’s Forces

E ND B OND

SIDE B OND

Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Should not be broken; if broken, Hydrogen bond can be broken to revert back amino acid groups Stimulates bloodtocirculation form physical change; salt bond Encourages proper functioning of organs can also be broken to form physical change; disulfide bond, when broken causes lasting chemical change Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases Label the bonds RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

Science that deals with healthful O living H

O

Hydrogen __________



S

S

Disulfide ___________

H



H

N

+

H

O

– O

C

Salt ______

H H C

H H

C

H

H

H

_______________________ van der Waal’s Forces

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

If end bonds are broken, the

Describe each of these in your own way:

protein chains separate into small pieces that no longer have the characteristics of hair.

The importance of an end bond.

Hydrogen and salt bonds take on a physical change and disulfide bonds

How side bonds are affected by chemical treatment.

can take on a new shape that lasts

5

with a chemical change.

ATOM

AMINO ACID

PROTEIN

Hair begins with atoms that unite to become amino acid protein chains that bond together to

HAIR The importance of this graphic.

other protein chains to make human hair.

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C H A P T E R 51

thin k ing map Now that you have filled in your SmartNotes for “Chemistry,” create a Thinking Map to help yourself make sense of how your SmartNotes fit together. Use some or all of the words in the Jump Start Box as well as your own words and pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this chapter to each other. Be creative!

PROFESSIONAL CHEMISTRY DEVELOPMENT

jump start box Nitrogen Hydrogen Carbon Chemical Change 1 Proto n Neutron Electron 8

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Physical Change Molecules Amino Acid Protein Keratin Hair Solid Liquid

Gas 6 Peptide Bond Polypeptide Bond Side Bond Bonds Atoms Sulfur

1

7 Disulfide Hydrogen Bonds Salt Bonds Matter Oxygen 16 van der Waal’s forces

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.2 T HE pH SCALE Potential Hydrogen

Measures whether substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

Water-Based Solutions Acid

p age s 1 1 8 - 1 1 9

Impure air ventilation

measures Inadequate lighting pH amount of acid or alkali in a water-based solution only

Improper disinfection practices



Improper storage or use of food

More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions Bad breath = halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

H+ H+ H+ OHH+ H+ H+

5

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

Neutral

Equal number ofhealthy hydrogen hydroxide Hair care – clean, hair and = beautiful hair ions Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

H+ H+

H+ OH-

OHOH-

Alkaline

More negative hydroxide ions skin tone Foundation should always match Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

OH-

acid

al kaline

OH-

OHOH- OH H+ OH-

More hydrogen ions Clothing mustpositive be clean, shoes polished

More negative hydroxide ions

Dress well

0-6.99 on pH scale

7.01-14 on pH scale

Skin and hair Good posture enhances youracidphysical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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5



balanced at 4.5-5.5 Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.2 T HE pH SCALE pH scale NEUTRAL

(H+) ACID

0

1

2

3

4

ACID - BALANCE (hair, skin, scalp) 4.5 - 5.5

4.5

5

5.5

6

7

ALKALINE (OH-)

8

< 10x > <


10

11

12

13

14

1000x >

p ages 1 1 8 - 1 1 9

acidic neutral or Unit Necessary of measurement for a healthy, - determines happy life if substance is _______, alkaline ranges from 0 to 14; ___ 7 is neutral __________; 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

0-6.99

positive hydrogen ions Acid range (orange); more __________ equal hydrogen and hydroxide ions Neutral (water); _______

7.01-14

Alkaline range (ammonia); more negative hydroxide ions Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Each number increases by multiples of ___ 10 Stimulates blood circulation proper functioning of organs 12 Encourages 7 8 9 10 11 13 __x ___x 0 10 ____x 100 _____x 1000 _______x 10,000 ________x 100,000 1,000,000x

Logarithm

Testing pH

14 __________x 10,000,000

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as 14 is 10,000,000 times more alkaline than 7 providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance 1. pH (Nitrazine) paper 2. pH pencil Science that deals with healthful living 3. pH meter

Acid balanced

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4.5 to ____ 5.5 Within the same range as hair, skin and scalp, ____

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c hem ist ry

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

(H+) ACID

0

1

2

3

4

ALKALINE (OH-)

NEUTRAL

ACID - BALANCE (hair, skin, scalp) 4.5 - 5.5

4.5

5

5.5

6

7

8

< 10x >

<
1000x

10

11

12

13

Draw and label the pH scale. Explain the pH scale to someone.

14

>

A substance has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 if it is acid balanced

Explain the term acid balanced.

5 ACIDIC - orange/lemon juice

Give examples of acidic, alkaline and neutral pH items.

NEUTRAL - distilled water ALKALINE - toothpaste, ammonia

MATCHI N G Match the term with the best description by placing the number of the description in the space to the left of the term.

1

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2

1. Substance with a pH value of 4.5-5.5

3 _____ 0-6.99

2. Alkaline pH range

4 _____ Neutral

3. Acidic pH range

2 _____ 7.01-14

4. Water

5 _____ Logarithm

5. Each number increases by multiples of 10

1 _____ Acid balanced

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.3 Chem istry of COS M ETI C S Cosmetic Classifications Solutions

Suspensions

Emulsions

Ointments

Soaps Powders

Shampoos How Shampoo Works Surfactant The Role of Water

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p ages 1 2 0 - 1 2 5

combines and physical characteristics Based Necessary on how for awell healthy, substance happy__________ life 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue molecules do not __________; separate can be solid, Mixture of 2 or more kinds of ___________; liquid or gas separate Mixture of 2 or more kinds of molecules; ___________; need to be shaken, such as vinegar and oil Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better binder (gum), e.g., oil in water 2 or more non-mixable substances united by a ________ (perms), water in oil (cold cream) Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs medicinal agent (semi-solid form); no Mixture of organic substance and a ___________ water, e.g., lipstick acids by heat Mixtures fatisand oil converted to fatty and then purified Balanced of diet essential for personal and_______ professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA -mixtures Recommended Dietary dissolve in Equal of inorganic andAllowance organic substances that do NOT __________ water; sifted and mixed until free of coarse grit Science that deals scalp Clean _______ andwith hair;healthful remove allliving foreign debris without adversely affecting scalp or hair agent causes the oil to “roll up” A “push-pull” action caused by a surface active _______ into droplets that are lifted and rinsed away. oil Surface active agent; has a water-loving and _____-loving part solvent neutral; hard water = minerals; soft water preferred (allows Universal _________; lather); hard water is hard to lather

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W EB all - purpose Low alkaline Low surface active agents

plain

Mild, does not strip color

Usually strong

Can be antifungal/ antidandruff

High alkaline Not for chemically treated hair

soapless

acid -balanced

Able to lather without harsh alkaline ingredient

Made to have same pH as the skin and hair

Works in soft and hard water

Will not strip color

Follow with an acid rinse

for thinning hair

medicated Often must have prescription

Gentle Lighter molecular weight Provide healthy environment for hair growth

types of shampooS

5

Designed to treat scalp and hair problems

clarifying Higher alkalinity in order to remove residue, such as product build-up

color Contain temporary color molecules that stick to outer cuticle of hair

li quid dry po w der dry

conditioning

For bedridden clients

Contain animal, vegetable or mineral additives that enter cortex or coat cuticle

Orris root powder absorbs soil and oil as product is brushed through the hair

Improve strength and porosity

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2

3

Used when client can’t receive normal shampoo Works with wigs

anti -dandruff Control dandruff Massage scalp vigorously and rinse thoroughly

Evaporate from hair Very drying

Don’t use prior to chemical service

4

5

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.3 Chem istry of Cos met i c s Rinses and Conditioners

p ages 1 2 5 - 1 2 8

appearance Necessary for a healthy, Shine, luster happy life 6-8 hours of sleepAmount necessary of to moisture prevent fatigue porosity manageability How easily comb passes through

Types of Rinses

 Ability to stretch and return to its natural shape elasticity without breaking Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better 1. Vinegar and Lemon - acid rinses; remove soap scum; counteract alkalinity Stimulates blood circulation Encourages functioning organs 2. Creamproper - soften; add luster;ofonly slightly acidic 3. Medicated - control dandruff and minor scalp conditions

Conditioners

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases   1. Instant - coat the hair shaft; restore moisture and oils; do NOT penetrate RDA into - Recommended Dietary Allowance cortex; not for fine, limp hair  2. Normalizing - contain vegetable protein; acidic pH causes cuticle to close Science thatchemical deals with healthful living after services  3. Body-building - required for fine, limp hair; deposits protein; can use prior to chemical services   4. Moisturizing - humectants bind and hold moisture in the hair; avoid use for several days following perm (may go limp)   5. Customized - formulated to meet special needs; moisture and body-building

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.3 Chem istry of COS M ETI C S Perms

Hair is wrapped around tool; processing lotion is applied to break disulfide _______; hairair softens to shape of perm tool; rinsing removes lotion; bondsImpure ventilation _____________ reforms disulfide bonds to new shape neutralizer Inadequate lighting

Alkaline

p ages 1 2 8 - 1 3 0

Improper disinfection practices

Processes without ______; 8.0 - 9.5; thioglycolic acid and ammonium heat Improper storage or usepH of food hydroxide are main ingredients Bad breath = halitosis

Acid wave

Main ingredient = glycerylmonothioglycolate; Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath freshspeed is sacrificed for a more controlled curl; heat may be used

Neutralizers

Main Bathe ingredients: regularly usinghydrogen soap and __________, useperoxide deodorant sodium perborate or sodium bromate

Relaxers

Reduce curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by changing molecular ___________ structure

5

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Sodium Hydroxide

AL E RT !

ALERT

Thioglycolate

Curl Reformation

pH of Formulated withexercise 2% toand 3%rest sodium hydroxide heavy cream base with ____ Good nutrition, = healthy glowing in skin 11.5 to 14 Sodium Hydroxide and _______________ Thioglycolate are NOT compatible. Do NOT use one on top of the other. Formulated with 4% to 6% thioglycolic acid with 1% ammonium hydroxide; pH 8.8 to 9.5; cream usually Foundation should base always matchadded skin tone Contouring with lights – broadens

Loosens _________ curly to tightly curled hair; hair is smoothed with texture Contouring with darksof – diminishes thioglycolic-based cream, rinsed, curl booster applied; hair is then _________ wrapped around perm tool, processed to desired shape, rinsed and neutralized Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



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When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.3 Chem istry of Cos met i c s Hair Color Nonoxidative

p ages 1 3 1 - 1 32

Nonoxidative, Necessary for aoxidative, healthy, happy lighteners, life developers, vegetable, metallic and compound dyes 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue   1. Temporary: non-reactive; direct dyes; coat the surface; certified colors; last until shampooed out 2. Semi-permanent: last through several shampoos; penetrate cuticle layer;   slightly alkaline in pH; color you see in bottle is color deposited on hair Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better

Oxidative

AL E RT !

ALERT

Stimulates 3. Longblood   lastingcirculation semi-permanent (demi-permanent or oxidative without Encourages properuse functioning organs to develop color molecules; can only ammonia): low volumeofperoxide ADD color, not subtract, lift or lighten  4. Permanent (oxidative with ammonia): colorless molecules combine with Balanced diet istoessential for personal and professional well-being well asand peroxide build colored molecules that link together in theascuticle providing prevention forcertain diseases cortex and become anchored; can lighten and deposit; aniline derivative RDA most - Recommended Dietary Allowance frequently used Perform patch test 24 hours prior to application of aniline derivative color Science that deals with healthful living Allergies – Perform Patch Test

Oxidants

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Ability to release oxygen needed for chemical change

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sm a r tN OT ES 5.3 Chem istry of Cos met i c s Hair Lighteners

p ages 1 32 - 1 3 4

Bleaching or decolorizing; oxidation of natural melanin in hair; ammonia common ingredient (alkaline) Impure air ventilation

Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection practices



ON-Tstorage HE -SCA LPfood Improper or use of

OF F-T HE -SC ALP

enough to be Bad breath Gentle = halitosis

Powder bleaches

appliedteeth to scalp Maintaining healthy and keeping breath fresh Stronger than on-the-scalp Oil - mild, pH 9 Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

Lighten faster

Cream - most popular... prevents dripping

pH about 10.3

5

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Used for full headand lightening Good nutrition, exercise rest = healthy glowing skin

Used for highlighting/weaving

Developers

Hydrogen peroxide is most common; 20 volume used most often; pH 2.5 to 4.5; permanent colors require peroxide to develop their color molecules; shelf life usually 3 years Foundation should always match skin tone

Hydrometer

Used to measure strength of hydrogen peroxide Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes

Repeated use coats and builds up on hair shaft causing damage to hair Clothing must be clean, shoes polished

More of these colors are used - more color change takes place Dress well Henna - reddish highlights Metallic - fadeenhances to unnatural shades;well-being look and and feelreduces dry physical fatigue Good posture your physical

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3

4

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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CHAP TER

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. Describe each of these in your own way:

Acid - with heat, milder, need tension, pH of 6.9 - 7.2 Alkaline - cold wave, no heat, pH of 8.0 - 9.5

Two types of perms.

Sodium hydroxide’s effect on the hair is irreversible.

The lasting effects caused by sodium hydroxide and why it must be handled with professional care.

Once the bonds have been broken by sodium hydroxide it cannot be reformed. The hair must grow out. Oxidants develop the chemical change

The use of oxidants.

by releasing oxygen.

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

Anything that occupies space is called _________________.

2. List the five elements that form the structure of hair. ________________________ ________________________ ________________ ________________________ ________________________ 3.

Hair is a form of protein called ______________________.

4.

Hair is a ________________ because it has definite weight, volume and shape.

5. TRUE

FALSE As a cosmetologist, many of the chemical services you perform, primarily perming and relaxing, directly affect

the disulfide bond by either breaking the bond or reforming it into a new shape. 6. List the three major chemical services a cosmetologist performs on hair. ____________________ ______________________ _____________________. 7.

TRUE FALSE Permanent waves using thioglycolic acid have a higher pH value than those using glycerylmonothioglycolate.

8.

TRUE FALSE It is safe to use a sodium hydroxide relaxer on hair that has already been relaxed with a thioglycolate relaxer.

9. List the five general categories of hair coloring products. _________________ __________________ __________________ ___________________ __________________. 10.

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Hair colors using an oxidation system that starts out with colorless molecules are referred to as _____________________.

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MEMORY BOX

know chart

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5. TRUE

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6. perming, relaxing,

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I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. matter

8. FALSE

2. carbon, oxygen, hydrogen,

9. nonoxidative, oxidative,

nitrogen, sulfur

lighteners, developers and

3. keratin

vegetable, metallic and

4. solid

compound dyes 10. permanent hair colors

hair coloring 7. TRUE

5

SHOW YOU KNOW... You have just developed a new conditioner to be used for all hair types. The major marketing point this product has is that it will add body to the hair. List below a name for your product, a sample list of ingredients that might be found in your product, directions for use of your product and an advertising phrase that might be used to help “sell” your product. Be sure to include any safety precautions for the user. Be creative! Product Name: List of Ingredients:

Directions:

Advertising Phrase:

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 5, Chemistry. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

I dentify the five

KNOW

elements found in hair .

Why is the pH scale

Comprehend

important to a salon professional?

The five elements found in hair are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur.

The pH scale is important to a salon professional because it indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline, which then guides in knowing the effects various substances have on the hair, skin and/or nails.

Compare the function of

Apply

a hydrophilic molecule to a

A hydrophilic molecule is attracted to water and a lipophilic molecule is attracted to oil.

lipophilic molecule . Clarify the responsibility

Analyze

of ammonium hydroxide within an alkaline wave . Differentiate between the process involved when

Synthesize

chemically relaxing the hair with either a sodium hydroxide relaxer or a thioglycolate relaxer.

Ammonium hydroxide, found in alkaline waves, is responsible for causing the hair to swell, making it easier for the thioglycolic acid to penetrate the hair structure and break the disulfide bonds. It also helps to shorten the processing time.

The process of a thioglycolate relaxer involves breaking the disulfide bond between two sulfur atoms. The process involved with a sodium hydroxide relaxer involves breaking the disulfide bonds between the first sulfur atom and the adjacent carbon atom, making it irreversible.

Defend how ox idative colors

Evaluate

are able to cause a chemical change

Oxidative colors are able to cause a chemical change in the hair because they are mixed with an oxidant that has the ability to release oxygen to fuel the chemical process.

in the hair .

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BRAIN BUILD ER

Questions help us think. Write a challenging question about four of the important words or phrases below and be prepared to answer it. (The following stems generate the most throught-provoking questions: Why does? Why are? What if? How would? Try them!) Then try your questions out on your friends. How well can they answer them?

• Matter



• Chemical Change



• Amino Acids



• Chemical Bonds



• pH Scale



• Solutions



• Porosity

5

putting your heads together

With a partner or in a small group, quiz each other using the words below. Make notes for future study. CHEMISTRY ELEMENTS OXYGEN PROTEIN MATTER ATOMS SULFUR KERATIN LIQUID MOLECULES NUCLEUS HAIR SOLID HYDROGEN PROTON PEPTIDE BOND GAS CARBON ELECTRON POLYPEPTIDE PHYSICAL CHANGE NITROGEN AMINO ACID CHEMICAL CHANGE SIDE BOND BONDS POSITIVE ION SHELL ORBIT UNSTABLE ATOM ATOMIC NUMBER MIXTURE NEGATIVE ION BASE PH NITRAZINE PAPER ACID ALKALINE

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BR AIN COND ITIO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. The scientific study of matter and the physical changes in matter is called: a. chemistry b. physics c. anatomy

d. physiology

2. How many different forms of matter are there? a. 2 b. 3 c. 4

d. 7

3. Matter with definite weight, volume and shape, such as your leather shoes, is which form of matter? a. solid b. liquid c. gas d. inorganic 4. Melting an ice cube would be an example of a(n): a. chemical change b. physical change c. chemical reaction

d. organic change

5. A change in a substance that creates a new substance with properties or characteristics different from the original substance is a(n): a. chemical change b. physical change c. elemental change d. anatomical change 6. What form of matter is hair? a. solid b. liquid

c. inorganic

d. gas

7. Which of the following activities is NOT an example of a physical change? a. rusting of a nail b. performing a haircut c. shattering a piece of glass d. performing a thermal style 8. All matter that is living or once was living contains carbon and deals with: a. organic chemistry b. physics c. anatomy d. inorganic chemistry 9. Everything that is alive or was once alive contains: a. oxygen b. hydrogen c. nitrogen

d. carbon

10. The study of minerals would involve: a. organic chemistry b. inorganic chemistry c. living matter

d. chemical bonds

11. The smallest complete unit of an element is a(n): a. atom b. proton

d. neutron

c. electron

12. Within an atom, protons and neutrons are found in the: a. orbit b. shell c. nucleus

d. protoplasm

13. The atomic number of an atom indicates the number of what in the nucleus: a. electrons b. protons plus neutrons c. neutrons plus electrons d. protons 14. The shell of an atom consists of: a. neutrons b. protons c. electrons

d. protons and neutrons

15. The molecule formed when different elements are joined together chemically is called a: a. mixture b. compound c. solid d. liquid 16. Carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and hydrogen are the building blocks of: a. amino acids b. elements c. mixtures d. end bonds

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17. Amino acids join together in chains to become: a. compounds b. elements c. chemicals

d. proteins

18. Hair is an example of a(n): a. element b. form of protein

d. solution

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c. mixture

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19. Hair is primarily composed of: a. keratin b. trace minerals c. protons

d. electrons

20. The backbone of all protein molecules is the: a. side bond b. hydrogen bond c. peptide bond

d. amino acid

21. What type of bonds are individually very weak? a. hydrogen bonds b. side bonds c. disulfide bonds

d. peptide bonds

22. The most important side bond a cosmetologist is concerned with is the: a. hydrogen bond b. van der Waal’s Forces c. salt bond d. disulfide bond 23. An example of a chemical change is: a. shampooing hair b. styling the hair on rollers c. perming

d. using a blow dryer

24. The pH measurement scale indicates whether a substance is: a. a liquid, solid or gas b. organic or inorganic c. hard or soft d. acidic, neutral or alkaline 25. Substances of acidic or alkaline nature dissolve in water and/or contain: a. water b. hydrogen c. carbon d. salt 26. A substance with a pH of 6 would be: a. neutral b. acidic c. alkaline

d. salty

27. A pH of 5 is how many more times acidic than a pH of 6: a. 1.5 b. 10 c. 100

d. 1,000

5

28. The pH of skin, hair and scalp is in which of the following ranges? a. 4.5 to 5.5 b. 6.5 to 7.5 c. 8.5 to 10.5 d. 11.0 to 12.0 29. All of the following statements regarding pH are true EXCEPT: a. pH measurement scale ranges from 0 to 14 b. a solution is acidic if it has more negative hydroxide ions c. solutions with equal hydrogen and hydroxide ions are neutral d. pH is a unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline 30. Distilled water with a pH of 7 is: a. salt b. alkali c. acid

d. neutral

31. Most shampoos and conditioners are acid-balanced to what range on the pH scale? a. 2.5 to 3.5 b. 4.5 to 5.5 c. 6.5 to 7.5 d. 7 32. What defines cosmetics as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance? a. The Food and Drug Act of 1938 b. OSHA c. The EPA d. The USDA 33. How many general classifications are assigned to categorize cosmetics used in the cosmetology industry? a. 3 b. 4 c. 5 d. 6 34. A mixture of two or more kinds of molecules, evenly dispersed would be a(n): a. solution b. suspension c. emulsion d. ointment 35. Water is considered to be a universal solvent because it is: a. not capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent b. capable of dissolving more substances than any other solvent c. a dilute solution d. a concentrated solution

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36. What substance is formed when two or more nonmixable substances are united with the help of a binder? a. solutions b. powders c. ointments d. emulsions 37. Mixtures of organic substances and a medicinal agent are: a. solutions b. emulsions c. ointments

d. suspensions

38. Which type of hair usually needs to be shampooed more often? a. oily b. dry c. normal d. blond 39. A surfactant is used to: a. change hair color b. condition hair

c. add oil to hair

d. remove oil from hair

40. Another name for the oil-loving part of a surfactant is: a. lipophilic b. hydrophilic c. peroxide

d. hydroxide

41. Which of the following statements about surfactants is NOT true? a. contains a lipophilic part b. contains a hydrophilic part c. used to remove oil from the hair d. prevents shampoo from lathering 42. Which type of shampoo contains low alkaline content and a low concentration of surface acting agents and generally does not correct any special condition? a. plain b. all-purpose c. clarifying d. medicated 43. Which of the following shampoos would NOT be used for chemically treated or damaged hair? a. plain b. non-stripping c. all-purpose d. acid-balanced 44. Shampoos that often have a higher alkalinity in order to be able to remove residue, such as product build-up or dirt, are: a. clarifying b. powder dry c. thinning hair d. conditioning 45. A shampoo that contains orris root powder to absorb soil and oil is classified as a(n): a. color shampoo b. powder dry shampoo c. anti-dandruff shampoo d. liquid dry shampoo 46. The ability of hair to stretch and then return to its natural shape without breaking is referred to as: a. porosity b. elasticity c. manageability d. luster 47. Acid rinses help: a. open the cuticle b. close the cuticle

c. add softness

d. control dandruff

48. What type of conditioners contain hydrolyzed animal proteins and are recommended for dry, brittle hair that has been mechanically or chemically damaged? a. moisturizing b. normalizing c. customized d. body-building 49. What type of conditioners coat the hair shaft and restore moisture and oils, but do not penetrate into the cortex or replace keratin in the shaft? a. instant b. moisturizing c. body-building d. normalizing 50. Using a protein conditioner would help achieve all of the following results EXCEPT: a. fortify damaged areas b. increase new hair growth c. alter the way the hair behaves d. protect against further damage 51. The purpose of a waving lotion is to: a. break disulfide bonds b. break salt bonds c. restore salt bonds d. restore disulfide bonds 52. The purpose of a neutralizer is to: a. break disulfide bonds b. break salt bonds c. restore salt bonds

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53. Which of the following is an appropriate description of alkaline waves? a. processed with heat b. processed without heat c. pH of 6.9 to 7.2 d. contains glyceryl monothioglycolate 54. The main ingredient found in most neutralizers is either: a. hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate b. hydrogen sulfide, thioglycolic acid or ammonium hydroxide c. quats, disulfides or sodium hydroxide d. mineral water, wheat germ or dimethicones 55. Sodium hydroxide and thioglycolate relaxers: a. should be used together b. are not compatible c. have the same pH

d. are physical processes

56. What is another name for temporary colors? a. developers b. certified c. peroxide

d. an oxidative system

57. What type of color is most frequently used in permanent hair color? a. aniline derivative b. certified c. vegetable dye d. progressive 58. What product is usually used for lightening procedures such as highlighting and weaving? a. oil lighteners b. cream lighteners c. on-the-scalp lighteners d. powder bleaches 59. The most common oxidizing agent used in hair coloring and in hair lightening is: a. water b. hydrogen peroxide c. henna d. all of the above

5

60. Which item is incompatible with other chemical procedures such as perms and oxidative hair coloring? a. metallic dyes b. temporary colors c. semi-permanent colors d. cream lighteners

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.

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page 111



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page 112

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page 114

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final review continued 29.

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notes to myself

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Chemistry:

Lessons learned • Th  e bonding of protein chains to other protein chains makes human hair. • The pH scale indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline to assist professionals in keeping the hair, skin and scalp in the best condition possible. • Knowledge of the six classifications of cosmetics helps professionals understand product labels and usage directions.

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things to do



























things to do

5





























things to do



























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C HA PTER 6

SALON BUSINESS VALUE The ability to select the right salon will ensure financial rewards and personal and professional opportunity.

MAIN IDEA The areas in which you choose to develop your expertise will shape your career future. Choice + Hard Work = Success

PLAN

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6.1 THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

What You Need to Know Your Professional Goals 6.2 JOB SEARCH Resumés Job Interviews Evaluating the Salon 6.3 PROFESSIONAL RELATIONSHIPS Networking Building a Clientele The Stylist-Client 6.5 Relationship The Stylist-Staff Relationship Performance Review 6.4 SALON OWNERSHIP Self-Appraisal

Types of Salon Ownership Requirements of a Salon Getting the Right Advice Space Requirements and Floor Plans Borrowing Money Rental Agreements Types of Insurance Taxes Expenses and Income Salon Philosophy, Policies and Procedures Salon Operation

SALON RETAILING

Selling Professional Products Closing the Sale Buyer Types Follow Up Effective Displays

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B USIN ESS

sm a r tN OT ES 6.1 T HE BE AUT Y IND U STRY Personal Profile

p ages 1 4 1 - 1 42

I enjoy learning about (personal interests):

Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection practices



Improper storage or use of food

Bad breath = halitosis

IMaintaining like (working conditions): healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Greek Proverb “Know Thyself ”

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

6

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

IGood hopenutrition, to become (career exercise andgoals): rest = healthy glowing skin

IFoundation plan to achieve goalsmatch (career shouldmy always skinpath): tone Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

First: Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Then: Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

Use height adjustments on chairs

Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed Finally:

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When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 6.2 JOB SE ARCH Strategies You Would Use

p ages 1 42 - 1 4 4

1. Necessary Talk tofor stylists a healthy, who work happyinlife salons you admire 2. classified section of and talk to distributor sales consultant 6-8 Check hours of sleep necessary to paper prevent fatigue  3. Check with job placement at school and/or check with city or state unemployment office 4. Canvas area you would like to work routine willcover helpletter you look and work better Regular Mailexercise out resumés with

Resumés

Stimulates blood circulation Personal Data: Encourages proper functioning of organs Name, Address, Phone

Components

Education Background

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providingSpecial prevention forcertain diseases Additional Awards/ Resumé Training Recognitions RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

Science that deals with healthful living Special Skills

Previous Employment

Cover Letter Dear _____________________, I am writing this letter to introduce myself and describe my personal and professional aspirations. It is my intention to interview for a position at Salon Name __________________________.

Present Work My name is __________________________________ and I am presently Status ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________.

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S ALO N

B USIN ESS

sm a r tN OT ES 6.2 JOB SE ARCH Formal School Experience

For the past _________________(months) I have studied Impure at air_______________________________________. ventilation cosmetology

Graduation Date

Specialty Skills

p ages 1 4 3 - 1 4 4

Inadequate lighting

disinfection practicesand licensure by I plan Improper to complete my schooling ____________________________________________________. Improper storage or use of food

In addition to my salon preparation I have also Bad breath = halitosis ____________________________________________________ Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh ____________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________. Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

Position Applied For

At this point in my career I am especially interested in working on a ____________________________________________________.

6

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Opportunity

IGood havenutrition, selected exercise your salon because ________________________ and rest = healthy glowing skin ____________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________.

Contact Info

My application and resumé are attached. Please know that I am available for a personal interview at your convenience. Should you require additional information or references please contact me at ____________________________________________________. Foundation should always match skin tone Contouring with lights – broadens

IContouring look forward talking with you soon. withto darks – diminishes Respectfully, ____________________________________________________ Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 6.2 JOB SE ARCH Application Quick Reference Guide

Complete this guide and use it for application completion

p ages 1 4 3 - 1 4 6

PERSONAL Necessary for INFORMATION a healthy, happy life

Name: Address: 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue Telephone:

SCHOOL INFORMATION

School Attended: Graduation Date:routine will help you look and work better Regular exercise State Board Date Completed: Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs OTHER SKILL SPECIALTIES

Special Training: Work Experience: Awards: Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance CAREER OBJECTIVES:

Science that deals with healthful living

REFERENCES:

QUESTIONS YOU CAN ASK

Product Line: Salon Fee Structure: Staff Size: Specialty Services: Dress Code: Work Schedule: Pay:

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S ALO N

B USIN ESS

sm a r tN OT ES 6.2 JOB SE ARCH Benefits Inquiry List

p ages 1 4 6 - 1 5 0

Salary: Commissions: Impure air ventilation Paid Holidays: Inadequate lighting Sick Days: Improper disinfection practices Insurance Benefits: Improper storage or use of food Educational Opportunities: Retirement: Bad breath = halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Evaluating the Salon

P ROS Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

CONS 6

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Notes to Yourself

Networking: Foundation should always match skin tone

Building a Clientele: Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Word-of-Mouth Advertising: Business Cards: Clothing must be clean, shoes polished Dress well

Referrals: Prebooking: Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

Use height adjustments on chairs

Correspondence: Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed

When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

Personal Touch:

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sm a r tN OT ES 6.3 P ROFESSONAL R EL ATI ON S H I P S Success Checklist

Self-Assessment

pa ge 1 5 1

Necessary Determine for a healthy, client’s needs happy life Describe finished looks hours Keep changes conservative at first fatigue 6-8 of sleep necessary to prevent Discuss style maintenance Provide product information Remember to prebook Notify clients of schedule changes well in advance Regular exercise role routine help you look and workusing betterthe success With a partner, playwill your success procedures checklist above. Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs

INCLUDE D

NE G LE CT ED

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

Science that deals with healthful living

6.4 SALON OWNERS HI P Ownership Skills Profile

p a ge 1 53

Review the nine ownership skills listed on page 153. Decide on the 4 most important and list them in the order of importance. Most Important ________________________________________ Very Important ________________________________________ Somewhat Important ____________________________________ Also Important _________________________________________

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S ALO N

B USIN ESS

sm a r tN OT ES 6.4 SALON OWNER S H I P Assets

All property you own

Cash Value Items

Net Worth

Impure air ventilation

assets Inadequate Best - IRA, lighting certificate of deposit, savings bonds, etc.

Liabilities

p ages 1 5 4 - 1 5 6

Improper disinfection practices

you Improper storage-or of food What owe others caruseloan, school debt, etc. Bad breath = halitosis Assets minus liabilities Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Personal Loan Rate

Types of Salon Ownership If possible, bring in one of each of the different types of salon owners for a panel discussion with the students. Prior to the panel ask each owner to prepare a five-minute opening that allows students to hear how he or she progressed into salon ownership.

Bank normally will lend you 10% of your net worth Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

SO L E P RO P R IE TO R SH IP

PA RT N E R SH I P 6

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Owned by one person who is in

Owned by 2 or more persons completeexercise control and of business Good nutrition, rest = healthy glowing skin Should be legally written Should have written buy-out agreement

CO R P Oalways R ATmatch IO Nskin tone Foundation should

F R A N C H ISE

Contouring with lights – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes Owned by shareholders Board of Directors Clothing Directors must be clean, shoes polished appoint officers

Fee paid to parent corporation Can be sole proprietorship, partnership or corporation

Dress well

Requirements of a Salon

Good Location important factor well-being in openingand a business postureMost enhances your physical reduces physical fatigue

Use height adjustments on chairs

Keep head How up, chin level,inshoulders relaxedeconomic forecast of area   many area, 10-year Market Need When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair  Improvement Costs How much to spend to be a salon fixtures, furniture, plumbing, lighting, etc.

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sm a r tN OT ES 6.4 SALON OWNERS H I P Getting the Right Advice Accountants

Insurance Agents Lawyer

Distributor Sales Consultant

p ages 1 5 6- 1 5 8

SERVICES INCLUDE: Necessary for a healthy, happy life 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue Finance advisor - not beauty business expert Evaluates rental agreement, bookkeeping, does taxes, represents you if audited Gives advice on insurance needs Regular on exercise routine willsuch helpasyou look andmoney, work better Advisor legal obligations borrowing signing leases and tax responsibilities Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper organsfinding locations, finding employees Manufacturers; can functioning help in salonofdesign,

IRS Internal Revenue Service Schedule a panel discussion with an OSHA Occupational Hazard Balanced dietSafety is essential forAct personal and professional well-being as well as accountant, insurance agent, lawyer ADA Americans Disabilities Act diseases providingwith prevention forcertain or distributor sales consultant. Ask

Space Requirements and Floor Plans

RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance

these professionals to come prepared to share some examples of working with salon owners to assist them in business operations.

Science that deals with healthful living

Floor Plans L x W = Square Foot Service Area 120-150

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Length times width equals square footage  Workstation Area: 120-150 square feet per stylist for efficient work area Reception: Required area Receiving: Need to have desk for receiving clients Dispensary: Required area Restroom: Required area Shampoo: Required area Display: Required area

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sm a r tN OT ES 6.4 SALON OWNER S HI P

p ages 1 59 - 1 62

Rental Agreements

Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting

F IX E D R E N T

Improper disinfection practices Set dollar amount paid each month Improper storage or use of food Allows you to predict monthly expenses more accurately Bad breath = halitosis Lease for 5 or more years

VA R IA B L E R E NT Set dollar amount PLUS percentage of profit

Have accountant predict results before signing lease Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

to help control costs

Types of Insurance

Malpractice: Protects financial loss due to negligence while Bathe regularly using soapowner and usefrom deodorant performing duties

6

Premise: Or property; protects againsthair natural disasters, fire, theft, etc. Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful

Required by Law

Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Product Liability: C  overage that protects against financial loss arising because of injury or damage resulting from the use of a product

Taxes

Expenses and Income

Workers’ Compensation: S tate-controlled; required by law; if employee injured at work - medical expenses covered; will get income  Security Tax: Social Owner Foundation should always matchpays skin$1.00 tone for every $1.00 employee pays; retirement fund Contouring with lights planned – broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Sales Tax: Pay to state on monthly or quarterly basis Income Payclean, to IRS; on earnings of business ClothingTax: must be shoestax polished Dress well

Profit Loss

Income is greater than operating expense Operating expense is greater than income Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

Independent Contractors

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Use height adjustments on chairs

Keep head up, chin level, relaxed from building owner Applies to stylists who rent or shoulders lease workstations

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When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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sm a r tN OT ES 6.4 SALON OWNERS H I P Federal Employer Identification

p ages 1 6 3 - 1 66

Need Necessary before foryou a healthy, can hirehappy employees life 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

Using each one of the payment plans, create a sample pay period, income amount, hours worked, tax deductions and final paycheck example.

Payment Plan Commission

Salary Salary plus Commission Pricing

Advertising Inventory and Product Control Receptionist Duties

Making Change

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Regular routine help you look and work better Get paidexercise a percentage of will dollar income Stimulates blood circulation Encourages properwage functioning of organs Gets a guaranteed Gets a guaranteed wage plus additional monies, depending on how much business you bring in; reward for building up clientele Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain Price services at a reasonable ratediseases to fit the income range of the clients you RDAto- Recommended Dietary Allowance want attract Advertising tells public about your salon - services and quality Science that deals with healthful living Products are accounted for from the time they arrive until they are sold

Good will, schedule appointments, manage calls, announce appointments, manage reception area, promote retail, manage complaints, manage payments, manage messages, coordinate punctual schedules

Always count back from smaller denomination - coins - and move to the larger - bills

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sm a r tN OT ES 6.4 SALON OWNER S H I P Telephone Techniques

p ages 1 6 6 - 1 68

1. Answer phone within two rings 2. Impure air ventilation Greet client 3. Inadequate lighting Listen for client’s name and desired service 4. Book Improper appointment disinfection andpractices repeat back to client 5. Improper storage use someone of food who can If you cannot help,orfind 6. Take thorough message Bad breath = halitosis

Scheduling Appointments

Note name, healthy service,teeth time,and date and phone in appointment book Maintaining keeping breath number fresh

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

6.5 SALON RETAILI N G Buyer Types Ready Buyer Logical Emotional

p ages 1 73 - 1 75

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Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Open-minded; will take chance on products Wants to know all facts; thinks carefully about purchase Bases purchase on personal reasons rather than facts Foundation should always match skin tone

Bargain

Wants to save interested in quality - interested in price Contouring withmoney; lights –not broadens Contouring with darks – diminishes

Stubborn

Wants to debate product with you Role playmust each be of clean, these shoes buyerpolished types and see if others can guess the type. Clothing Explain key attributes. Dress well

Buyer Motivation

Need; desire to look good; profit or gain; impulse Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

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Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

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Display Guidelines

Use control form to monitor what is selling

Inventory Control

Use product identification cards below each product

Promotional Items

Keep product on edge of shelves, facing client

Quality Control

Price all retail products individually

Price

Display products by category

Ensure ordering of products is timely and controlled

Organize Stock

Put top sellers at eye level

Display literature on each item near the retail shelves for clients to read

Keep sufficient quantity of stock on shelves at all times

Dust products and clean shelves

Light the retail display area well

Display price where client can easily find it

Use island shelving and end caps

Rotate and rearrange product

Place latest shipment of same product in back of display Place displays in interesting areas

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Create a chart of your best personal attributes. BE CREATIVE! Ask someone you trust to discuss your chart with you. Assets - what I own

Net Worth - what is left when I pay

Liabilities - what I owe

what I owe

Make a note card you can use to explain: Assets, Liabilities, Net Worth.

Proprietorship - owned by 1 person Partnership - owned by 2 or more Describe in your own way the 4 types of salon ownership.

Corporation - legal entity owned by shareholders Franchise - operating agreement in which a fee is paid to a parent corporation in exchange for assistance

6

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

A goal identifying what you would like to achieve in the next year is called a ______________ - ______________ ____________.

2.

TRUE FALSE A good first impression can be obtained at an interview if you are neat and fashionably dressed.

3.

TRUE FALSE Since you will be spending much of your time at a salon developing your career, the most important aspect in applying for a job is the size of the salon.

4.

The best form of advertising is ______________ ________________ _______________.

5.

List the four types of salon ownership. ______________________________________ ___________________________________



______________________________________ ___________________________________

6.

TRUE FALSE Owning a salon requires expertise in all areas of a salon.

7.

Who is responsible for the salon’s compliance with all local, state and federal rules, regulations and laws? ____________________ _____________________

8.

Successful selling could be best defined as the art of __________________ ___________________.

9.

Statistics show that 45% to 65% of all purchases involve some form of __________________ buying.

10.

TRUE FALSE All clients share similar motivations for buying which include need, desire to look good, profit or gain, and impulse.

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MEMORY BOX 1. page 142



GOT IT NOT YET

2. page 144



GOT IT NOT YET

3. page 147



GOT IT NOT YET

4. page 149



GOT IT NOT YET

5. page 155



GOT IT NOT YET

6. page 153



GOT IT NOT YET

7. page 157



GOT IT NOT YET

8. page 169



GOT IT NOT YET

9. page 175



GOT IT NOT YET



GOT IT NOT YET

10. page 173

know chart I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. short-range goal 2. TRUE 3. FALSE 4. word-of-mouth 5. sole proprietorship, partnership, corporation, franchise 6. FALSE 7. salon owner 8. professional recommendation 9. impulse 10. TRUE

SHOW YOU KNOW... With the thought in mind of the salon you would like to work for, design a promotional contest that could be offered in the salon that would encourage retail sales. Be creative and innovative. Think of an idea that will gain the attention of the clients and still be exciting for the stylists. Your theme (idea) might include a seasonal or community event or focus on wellness or personal development. Include incentives, goals, time frames, motivators (spirit builders or “rah rah” rallies) or decorating ideas you have that will support this promotional contest. Contest Theme (Name): Promotion:

Goals:

Time Frames:

Motivators:

Decorating:

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 6, Salon Business. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

KNOW

L ist at least six areas located on a resumé.

Comprehend

Identify what is considered to be the most effective advertising for building a clientele .

Please offer a brief description of each of the four types of salon ownership.

Apply

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Analyze

J ustify the importance of malpractice insurance for a salon owner .

Synthesize

Susan is paid a 15% commission on retail products she sells to her clients. This week Susan sold $120 in retail to her clients. What would Susan’s commission be this week, prior to any deductions?

Evaluate

Offer your opinion on what the benefits to a client might be for a product that features a small container, protein as a primary ingredient and a concentrated formula that requires only a small amount for product usage.

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Areas located on a resumé include: personal data, educational background, additional training, previous employment, special skills, special awards, references, interests and/or rationale for working in a particular salon.

Word-of-mouth advertising is considered to be the most effective advertising for building a clientele.

6

A brief description of each of the four types of salon ownership includes: • A sole proprietorship is a business owned by one person. • A partnership is a business owned by two or more persons. • A corporation is actually owned by its shareholders. • A franchise is simply an operating agreement in which a fee is paid to a parent corporation in exchange for fixtures, promotion, advertising, education and management techniques.

Malpractice insurance is important for a salon owner because it protects the salon owner from financial loss that can result from an employee’s negligence while performing hair, nail and skin care services on salon clients.

Susan’s commission for this week would be 15% of $120 or $18.

The benefits to a client for a product that features a small container, protein as an ingredient and a small amount for usage could include: • Perfect for traveling • Reconditioning effect • Economical purchase

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putting your heads together thinking map FIRST...

With a partner review this chapter and jot down notes for an essay titled “Why the Cosmetology Industry Will Be Better Because I am a Part of It.”

THEN... FINALLY...

Create a short outline or thinking map of your ideas. Write your essay in the space provided on the following pages.

Notes:

thinking map PROFESSIONAL Now that you have filled in your SmartNotes for “Professional Development,” create a Thinking Map to help yourself DEVELOPMENT make sense of how your SmartNotes fit together. Use some or all of the words in the Jump Start Box as well as your own words and pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this chapter to each other. Be creative!

SALON

jump start box BUSINESS

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ESSAY WIZARD Writing doesn’t have to be a chore. Here’s how to make it easy!

PURPOSE FIRST Choose a purpose. . . to describe, explain, entertain, refute

Introduction THEN

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Write what you are going to write about. . .

Text NEXT WRITE IT!

Continue on next page

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CONNECTION

EMPHASIS

EXPLANATION

CONCLUSION

but altogether nevertheless despite however except

moreover in addition also furthermore

because since hence for

therefore thus so as a result

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Text

SUMMARY LAST Summarize and give your conclusions.

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BRAIN CO ND IT IO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. Which of these descriptions is NOT a guideline to be used when creating a resumé? a. list awards and special recognition b. show prior employment information c. provide at least eight pages of information d. write the resumé in a brief and concise manner 2. During a job interview it is very important to: a. stay calm and be yourself c. stretch the truth if necessary

b. tell a lot of stories d. tell the interviewer whatever you think he or she wants to hear

3. Which of the following abilities is NOT necessary for a salon owner?  a. ability to recognize fashion trends b. ability to exert self-control c. ability to communicate with the public d. ability in all practical skills 4. A list of all the property you own is called your: a. assets b. net profit

c. net worth

d. liabilities

5. A list of all the money owed to others is called: a. net worth b. total liabilities

c. assets

d. net assets

6. Total assets minus total liabilities is called: a. borrowing capacity b. net worth

c. gross assets

d. gross worth

7. On a financial statement, the $3,000 balance owed on a car would be listed as: a. an asset b. a net worth c. a liability

d. a bad business risk

8. On a financial statement, the $6,000 a car is actually worth is listed as: a. a liability b. a net worth c. an asset

d. a bad investment

9. A bank will generally lend money based on: a. total liabilities b. personal appearance

d. net worth

c. total assets

10. A business owned by one person who is in complete control of the business is a: a. partnership b. sole proprietorship c. corporation

d. franchise

11. A business in which two or more persons share management responsibilities is a: a. partnership b. sole proprietorship c. corporation

d. franchise

12. A form of operation in which a fee is paid to a parent corporation is a: a. partnership b. corporation c. franchise

d. entity

6

13. Which of the following businesses is owned by the shareholders, and is formed under legal guidelines? a. corporation b. franchise c. partnership d. proprietorship 14. Location is the most important factor in: a. choosing a distributor b. choosing a lawyer

c. choosing an accountant

d. opening a salon

15. All of the following items should be important requirements in the process of salon planning EXCEPT: a. location b. market need c. cost of necessary improvements d. the distance from the Social Security office 16. Which of the following professionals can offer advice on the operating capital needed to open a salon and pay the expenses of your business? a. accountant b. lawyer c. distributor sales consultant d. banker

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17. An efficient working space for each stylist is: a. 50 to 75 square feet b. 120 to 150 square feet

c. 200 to 300 square feet

d. over 300 square feet

18. A lawyer can help ensure that a salon owner is in compliance with all of the following areas EXCEPT: a. tax responsibilities b. signing rental agreements c. local, state and federal codes d. inventory needs 19. Which of the following professionals is most likely able to assist a salon owner with an inventory-saving idea? a. lawyer b. insurance agent c. distributor sales consultant d. accountant 20. It would be unwise to install a salon without a rental agreement of less than: a. 2 years b. 5 years c. 10 years

d. 15 years

21. What type of rental contract has a set dollar amount plus a percentage of the monthly income paid? a. variable b. fixed c. monthly d. yearly 22. In order to protect the employee, states require that salons: a. carry worker’s compensation insurance b. have a lawyer c. retain an accountant d. have a sales consultant 23. What type of tax dictates that for every dollar an employee pays, the salon owner needs to also pay the same amount to the government? a. federal income b. state income c. local income d. Social Security or (Canadian Pension Tax) 24. Before collecting sales taxes on products or services sold, a salon owner must: a. make money b. apply for a state sales tax permit c. pay state income taxes d. apply for a federal sales tax permit 25. On the average, the largest expense in operating a salon would be: a. salaries or commissions b. rent c. supplies

d. utilities

26. Which of the following items is/are required by law? a. parking facilities b. record keeping

d. retailing salon products

c. variable rent

27. It is wise to keep all records of daily sales and service for how long? a. 2 to 4 years b. 5 to 7 years c. 10 to 12 years

d. 14 to 16 years

28. What percentage of salon expenses represents compensation for the employer and employees? a. 10 b. 25 c. 50 d. 75 29. What form of employee compensation guarantees a certain amount of money on a regular basis and allows additional payment based on the number of clients the cosmetologist brings into the salon? a. salary b. salary plus commission c. commission d. bonus 30. One of the best forms of advertising for the stylist is: a. word-of-mouth b. billboards

c. pamphlets

d. television

31. For each dollar a stylist brings into the salon for services, it is an industry-recommended goal for the stylist to bring in what additional amount in sales of home care products? a. $1.00 b. $2.00 c. $3.00 d. $4.00 32. What amount of commission will a salon owner usually pay an employee for the retail sales of home care products? a. 2% to 5% b. 8% to 15% c. 20% to 25% d. 50%

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33. In many cases, the first person to greet a client is the: a. stylist b. manager

c. receptionist

d. owner

34. When counting back change to a client it is recommended to: a. not count out loud b. use as many bills as possible c. count back from smaller denomination to larger d. count back from larger denomination to smaller 35. The art of professional recommendation could best be described as: a. successful selling b. making appointments c. proper phone procedures

d. stylist-staff relations

36. To become an asset to any salon staff, the stylist should peform all of the following actions EXCEPT: a. listen to clients b. offer sound advice c. make negative comments d. communicate professionally 37. Which buyer type is open-minded and will take a chance on a new product without hesitation? a. ready b. logical c. emotional d. bargain 38. Which buyer type is more interested in price than quality? a. logical b. bargain c. stubborn

d. emotional

39. Which buyer type makes purchases more on personal reasons than on facts? a. logical b. bargain c. emotional

d. stubborn

40. Impulse buying accounts for about what percent of all purchases? a. 10% to 20% b. 45% to 65% c. 70% to 80%

d. 85% to 95%

6

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review.



1.

page 143



9.

page 154

17.

page 157

25.

page 161



2.

page 144

10.

page 155

18.

page 157

26.

page 161



3.

page 153

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page 155

19.

page 157

27.

page 161



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page 154

12.

page 155

20.

page 159

28.

page 161



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page 154

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page 155

21.

page 159

29.

page 161



6.

page 154

14.

page 156

22.

page 160

30.

page 164



7.

page 154

15.

page 156

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31.

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page 154

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page 156

24.

page 160

32.

page 165

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final review continued 33.

page 165

35.

page 169

37.

page 173

39.

page 173

34.

page 166

36.

page 170

38.

page 173

40.

page 175

notes to mysELf

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Salon Business:

L e ss o n s l e a r n e d • E  stablishing short and long-range goals and following a plan to achieve those goals support the professional in reaching clear-cut levels of achievement. • Evaluating the advantages and disadvantages of working at a particular salon is a prerequisite to accepting a job offer. • The ability to develop meaningful relationships with the general public and professionals at all levels of the industry is a necessity for career success. • Knowing the principles of salon ownership operations allows a professional to work productively with employers or to eventually own a salon. • Recommending products to clients and teaching them how to use those products to achieve their desired image will help grow a loyal, appreciative client base.

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C HA PTER 7

TRICHOLOGY VALUE Your shampoo and massage ability increases as you learn more about hair theory and care.

MAIN IDEA

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Knowledge of the study of hair + care and skill during shampoo and massage = quality salon services

PLAN

7.1 HAIR THEORY

Hair Bulb Formation Hair Growth Hair Structure and Behavior Natural Hair Color

7.2 HAIR CARE

Hair Evaluation Common Hair Conditions Common Scalp Conditions Hair Loss

7.3 DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

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Draping Theory Shampooing and Conditioning Theory Scalp Massage Theory Draping, Shampooing and Scalp Massage Essentials Infection Control and Safety Basic Draping, Shampooing and Conditioning Basic Scalp Massage

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sm a r tN OT ES 7.1 H AIR T HEORY Trichology

Hair Bulb Formation

Three Shapes of Follicles

Hair Growth

p ages 1 8 1 - 1 8 3

The study of hair The hair follicle forms from a cluster of cells in the upper layer of skin Two primary parts of the hair

HA IR ROOT

HA IR F IB E R

Portion of hair inside the follicle under the skin’s surface

Portion of hair that extends above the skin’s surface

• Round • Oval • Elliptical Filled with capillaries that supply nourishment to the cells around it

Papilla Three Major Layers Medulla - Central core of hair shaft Cortex - Inside of second layer of the hair shaft Cuticle - Outer covering of the hair shaft

Keratinization

Three Stages of Growth First Then Finally

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Keratinization is a process whereby cells change their shape, dry out and form keratin protein. Once keratinized, the cells that form the hair fiber or strand are no longer alive. ST AGE

Anagen Catagen Telogen

COMMON NAME

CHARACTERISTIC

attached root sheath cell division stops no attached root sheath

active growing transitional resting stage

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sm a r tN OT ES 7.1 HAIR T HEORY Hair Structure and Behavior

p ages 1 8 4 - 1 8 6



Three Factors That Affect Behavior

• Heredity - genes inherited from parents • Environment - air, moisture, will alter some bonds • Products/Appliances - e.g., shampoos, curling irons Cuticle is a hard, resistant layer of protein compared with the soft, elastic quality of the cortex

Cuticle/Cortex Ratio

Natural Hair Color



Albinism

Genes - determine number of melanocytes Melanin - produced by melanocytes Melanocytes - form bundles called melanosomes Melanosomes - size, type and distribution determine natural hair color

1. 2. 3. 4.

A total lack of pigmentation in the hair and skin

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7.2 HAIR CARE

p ages 1 8 7- 1 8 8

Hair Evaluation TYPES

Texture

Density

Porosity

Elasticity Test for Structural Strength

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C HARAC TE RIS TIC S

N O TE S

1. Fine

silk feel of ____________

coarseness Degree of ____________

2. Medium

feel of ____________ cotton

fineness of or ____________

3. Coarse

feel of ____________ wool

hair fiber

1.

Thick (heavy)

More ____________ active follicles

2.

Thin (light)

____________ active follicles Less

Judged by number follicles of active ____________ per square inch

____________ Average active follicles moisture Absorbs ____________ least

3.

Medium

1.

Resistant

2.

Average

3.

Extreme

4.

Uneven

1.

Normal

Lively, springs back

2.

Wet

Stretches 40% to ____ 50 % of its length

Normal ability

moisture Amount of ____________ able to be absorbed

Damaged

Combination ____________ of resistant and extreme of hair to ___________ stretch and Ability ____________ return to original without ____________ breaking shape

1. Remove strand of hair and hold between thumb and forefinger; ribbon 2. Pull hair taut for ___ 10 seconds; release 3. Good condition = returns to curl pattern 50 % or less of curl pattern 4. Weak condition = returns to ___

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CO MM O N H AI R CO N D I TI O N S Fill in the missing elements for the following charts. CON D I TI O N S

A L S O K N O WN AS

C AU S E /TRE ATM E N T

B rok e n H ai r

Abraded

S pl it En ds

Fragilitis Crinium Protein conditioner to seal or cut ends off and Trichoptilosis

Ma ttin g

Pilica Polonica

Mass of hair strands tangled together; cut hair

N odu l e s

Trichorrhexis Nodosa

Caused by poorly performed chemical services

Ca n itie s

Gray or white hair

Congenital or illness

R in g e d H ai r



Alternating bands of gray and dark exist

H ype rtr ic h o s i s

Hirsuties

Abnormal coverage of hair on the body; tweeze, electrolysis, wax Conditioning treatments may be given

Mon il e th r i x

From excessive stretching; chemical treatment

CO MM O N scalp CO N DI TI O N S D isorder or D i S EAS E Psoria sis D a n dru f f D r y D a n dr u f f Grease or Waxy D a n dru f f

MEDICAL TERM

D E S C RIP TIO N

TRE ATM E N T

Psoriasis

Thick, crusty patches of red irritated scalp

Refer client to physician

Pityriasis

Chronic scalp condition with excessive flaking

Frequent shampooing with an anti-dandruff

Pityriasis Capitis Simplex

Dry flakes attached to scalp or hair; appear translucent

Frequent shampooing with an anti-dandruff

Pityriasis Steatoides

Oily flakes combine with sebum; stick to scalp in clusters

Frequent shampooing with an anti-dandruff

Red circular patch of small blisters

Refer client to physician

shampoo. See page 191 of SFC coursebook shampoo. See page 191 of SFC coursebook shampoo. See page 191 of SFC coursebook

EXTERNAL PARASITES R in g w or m

Tinea

Ringworm of Th e S c a l p

Tinea Capitis

Enlarged, open hair follicles surrounded by red spots

Refer client to physician

H on e yc om b R in g w or m

Tinea Favosa

Dry, yellow, encrusted areas on the scalp

Refer client to physician

Scabies

Red and watery vesicles or pus filled areas

Refer client to physician

Pediculosis Capitis

Infestation on the scalp

Refer client to physician

I tc h Mite H e a d Lic e

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sm a r tN OT ES 7.2 HAIR CARE

p ages 1 91 - 1 9 6

Hair Loss Normal Hair Loss Androgenetic Hair Loss Androgenetic Alopecia

Males Females

40 - 100 strands a day Alopecia or excessive hair loss A combination of heredity, hormones and age which causes progressive shrinking or miniaturization of certain scalp follicles

Known as male pattern baldness Thinning of the hair

Other Types of Hair Loss

7

Postpartum alopecia temporary hair loss at the end of pregnancy

Telogen effluvium premature shedding of hair

Other Types of Hair Loss

Alopecia areata - sudden loss of hair; irregular patches

Traction or traumatic alopecia hair loss from pulling or twisting

Hair Loss Treatments

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6

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

FDA-approved products Products that provide ideal environment for new growth Surgical options Wigs, toupees, hair additions, weaving Cosmetic hair thickeners; simply coat the hair

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sm a r tN OT ES 7.3 DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE Purpose of Shampooing

p ages 1 97- 2 0 1

To cleanse the scalp and hair by removing dirt, oils and ___________ product build-up If hair is not cleansed properly an accumulation of oil and dirt can lead to scalp disorders

Draping Theory

Prior to hair care services; to __________ client’s skin and clothing protect Regulating agencies require shampoo capes used to drape must be laundered in solution to disinfect Make sure neck of cape does not come in direct contact with client’s skin; use neck strip

Shampooing and Conditioning Theory Water

Rain water or chemically treated water generally preferred for shampooing

Hard

Contains minerals, does not allow shampoo to lather freely

Brushing and Combing

Scalp Massage Theory Important Steps

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Understanding the pH level of shampoos and conditioners will help make the right selection

Soft

Temperature

170

Performed before most ___________ except before certain color and services chemical services

Monitor water temperature before applying to scalp tangles • Removes ___________ • Stimulates ________ blood circulation • Removes dust, dirt and build up Involves manipulations performed to relax muscles and stimulate scalp • Establish a soothing or stimulating ___________ rhythm • Maintain ___________ contact with the client throughout the manipulations • Carry out manipulations with firm, controlled movements • Keep fingernails at a moderate _____________ length

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sm a r tN OT ES 7.3 DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

p ages 2 01; 2 1 4 - 2 1 5

Five Basic Manipulations of Massage M OVE ME NT

E FFE CT

Effleurage

Light, gliding strokes or circular motions made with palms or pads of fingertips

Relaxing, soothing

Petrissage

Light or heavy kneading and rolling of the muscles between the thumb and fingers

Deep stimulation of muscles, nerves and skin glands; promotes circulation of blood and lymph

Tapotement

Light tapping or slapping movements applied with the fingers

Stimulates nerves, promotes muscle contraction; increases blood circulation

Circular movement with no gliding used on scalp or with a facial

Stimulates nerves and increases circulation

Shaking movement

Highly stimulating

Friction

Vibration

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Aromatherapy Directions: Using the words in the Jump Start Box, fill in the blanks for the conditions in the left-hand column.

Normal Hair Rosemary Oily Hair and Scalp Patchouli Dry Hair and Scalp Ylang Ylang Oily Dandruff Lemon

Chamomile Cedarwood

Clary Sage

Sandalwood

Lavender

Rosemary

Thyme

Bay

Lavender

Cedarwood Alopecia (Hair Loss) Sandalwood Clary Sage

Rosemary

JUMP START BOX Rosemary Clary Sage Lavender Sandalwood

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Thyme Cedarwood Lemon Ylang Ylang

Patchouli Chamomile Bay

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. 1. Hair follicle forms from a cluster of cells 2. Works its way down into the lower layer of skin 3. Cell cluster pulls upper layer down creating a pocket Stages of growth are anagen or active stage, catagen or transition stage and telogen or resting stage

Explain the three layers of hair and their importance to cosmetologists.

Medulla - central core - no importance (sometimes is absent) Cortex - 2nd layer - pigment and strength (elasticity) Cuticle - outer covering of hair shaft DISORDER Broken Hair Split Ends Matting Nodules Canities Ringed Hypertrichosis Monilethrix

DESCRIPTION abraded small cracks in cuticle tangled hair strands lumps or swelling of shaft grayness or whiteness alternating bands of gray and dark abnormal coverage of hair beads or nodes on hair shaft

Describe the process of hair follicle formation and the stages of hair growth.

CAUSE excessive stretching brittle condition excessive hair lightening chemical, mechanical or inherited illness, nervousness or heredity

Discuss the eight common hair disorders and their causes.

the challenge

Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

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1.

What are the three major layers of the hair? ____________________ ____________________ ____________________

2.

Hair is primarily made of ____________________.

3.

What three factors dictate why everyone’s hair is so different, even though all hair is primarily made of the same thing?



____________________ ____________________ ____________________

4.

TRUE FALSE The cuticle is the protective layer of the hair shaft and is made up of a harder protein than the cortex.

5.

The size, type and distribution of ___________________ will determine the natural color of hair.

6.

Two types of melanin that create the large variety of hair colors are _______________ and _______________ .

7.

During your professional analysis of a client’s hair fiber, a number of observations will alert you to possible problems



you might encounter as you service the hair. List seven of these observations. ____________________________________



________________________________ ______________________________________ __________________________



________________________________ ______________________________________

8.

TRUE FALSE A dryer or a curling iron could cause the hair to become brittle and the cortex of the hair could melt.

9.

The most common form of hair loss is androgenetic alopecia. What are some of the other types of hair loss?



__________________ __________________ __________________ __________________

10.

TRUE FALSE The FDA has ruled that products claiming hair regrowth or hair loss prevention cannot be marketed without prior FDA review and approval.

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MEMORY BOX

1. PAGE 182



GOT IT NOT YET



2. PAGE 183



GOT IT NOT YET



3. PAGE 184



GOT IT NOT YET



4. PAGE 185



GOT IT NOT YET



5. PAGE 186



GOT IT NOT YET



6. PAGE 186



GOT IT NOT YET



GOT IT NOT YET

7. PAGES 189, 190

8. PAGE 190



GOT IT NOT YET



9. PAGE 195



GOT IT NOT YET



10. PAGE 195



GOT IT NOT YET

know chart I KNOW: 1. medulla, cortex, cuticle 2. protein 3. heredity, environment, products or appliances used 4. TRUE 5. melanosomes 6. eumelanin, pheomelanin 7. broken hair, split ends, matting, nodules, canities, ringed hair, hypertrichosis, monilethrix 8. TRUE

I NEED TO STUDY: 9. postpartum alopecia, alopecia areata, telogen effluvium, traction or traumatic alopecia 10. TRUE

SHOW YOU KNOW... Pair up with a partner and show you know how to shampoo by performing a shampoo service on each other for evaluation. Shown below is a score sheet to use for each other. Score 1 point for each area successfully completed by your partner. Show you know by earning all 10 points!

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1st Partner 2nd Partner ___ You were welcomed with a warm greeting and ___ You were welcomed with a warm greeting and handshake. handshake. ___ You were properly draped for the shampoo service. ___ You were properly draped for the shampoo service. ___ Communication was professional, friendly and ___ Communication was professional, friendly and pertained to the service. pertained to the service. ___ Examination of your scalp and hair was performed ___ Examination of your scalp and hair was performed prior to the service. prior to the service. ___ Your hair was brushed and tangles were removed ___ Your hair was brushed and tangles were removed comfortably. comfortably. ___ Water temperature and pressure were comfortable. ___ Water temperature and pressure were comfortable. ___ The massage manipulations were performed in a ___ The massage manipulations were performed in a comfortable, confident manner. comfortable, confident manner. ___ Concern was exhibited to not allow your face or ___ Concern was exhibited to not allow your face or clothing to become wet. clothing to become wet. ___ Thorough lathering and rinsing procedures ___ Thorough lathering and rinsing procedures were followed. were followed. ___ Your hair was adequately towel-dried and ___ Your hair was adequately towel-dried and detangled following the service. detangled following the service. ___ Total Points

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 7, Trichology. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

KNOW

List the three major layers of the hair.

Compare the anagen,

Comprehend

catagen and telogen stages of hair growth.

Offer an example of

Apply

of evaluating your client’s hair prior to a

Suggest a treatment option for androgenetic alopecia.

State your opinion

Evaluate

on the use of aromatherapy on the scalp.

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The hair cuticle can be damaged through friction as in combing and brushing.

can be damaged.

service.

Synthesize

Anagen is the active growing stage during which time each hair bulb has an attached root sheath, catagen is the brief transitional stage when all cell division stops, and telogen is the resting stage when each hair bulb has no attached root sheath.

how the hair cuticle

Analyze the importance

Analyze

The three major layers of the hair are the medulla, cortex and the cuticle.

Knowing your client’s hair type tells you what the hair can and cannot do on its own, knowing the porosity of the hair determines what services may be performed and the effects of climate influence the shampoos and conditioners used.

Options for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia are: • FDA-approved products that re-grow hair or prevent hair loss • Products that provide an ideal environment for possible hair regrowth or loss prevention • Surgical options • Wigs, toupees, hair additions or hair weaving • Cosmetic hair thickeners designed to volumize the hair.

In my opinion, essential oils and scalp products have therapeutic effects on the scalp such as invigorating the scalp, encouraging renewed hair growth, relieving flaking associated with dryness or dandruff, increasing blood flow circulation and calming and soothing the body and mind.

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Wet Hair Service Draping, Shampooing and Conditioning Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide hair-related services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment

Level 1

for the procedure

Level 2

Level 3







•• Wash and sanitize hands







•• Ask client to remove jewelry and glasses and secure in a safe place







•• Clip client’s hair out of the way (if applicable)

























•• Position cape over chair







•• Brush the hair













•• Perform scalp massage manipulations







•• Rinse thoroughly; repeat shampoo and rinse procedures if necessary







•• Apply rinse or conditioner; rinse thoroughly







•• Towel dry client’s hair; detangle the hair







there is no water left standing in the shampoo service area







•• Discuss the products you used on the client and proceed to the next service.







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Turn client’s collar inward (if applicable) •• Place towel lengthwise over client’s shoulders, cross ends in front •• Position plastic cape over towel and secure



•• Examine the client’s hair and scalp

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•• Test the temperature and pressure of the water; wet the hair; apply shampoo

Completion •• Clean shampoo service area before continuing with client; ensure

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

TOTAL POINTS =

Percentage = student score / highest possible score

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%

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Basic Scalp Massage Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide hair-related services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Wash and sanitize hands







•• Drape client for a wet hair service







•• Detangle hair







•• Apply scalp product







•• Perform effleurage scalp manipulations







•• Perform effleurage scalp manipulations







•• Perform effleurage scalp manipulations







•• Perform tapotement







•• Rotate the scalp







•• Conclude scalp massage







•• Shampoo client’s hair







•• Dry hair or move to next service







•• Discuss and offer to prebook your client’s next visit







•• Recommend appropriate retail products to your client







•• Clean your work area







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

Completion

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

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TOTAL POINTS = 48 %

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BRAIN CO ND IT IO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. The technical name for the study of hair is: a. trichology b. hairology

c. biology

d. cosmetology

2. Which of the following items is alive? a. hair fiber b. hair bulb

c. hair strand

d. keratin

3. The cluster of cells in the epidermis from which the hair follicle forms is called the: a. hair fiber b. hair strand c. primitive hair germ

d. root sheath

4. The root sheath of hair is typically oval or round in: a. tightly curled hair b. curly hair

d. coarse hair

c. wavy or straight hair

5. What item needs nourishment to grow into a fully developed hair follicle? a. primitive hair germ b. cortex c. root sheath

d. cuticle

6. Which of the following functions is NOT one of the main purposes of hair? a. support b. adornment c. protection from cold

d. protection from injury

7. Which item produces oil and sends it up through the hair follicles to the surface of the skin? a. papilla b. root sheath c. sebaceous gland d. arrector pili 8. Which section of the hair structure is the area where mitosis takes place? a. germinal matrix b. root sheath c. hair follicle

d. cuticle

9. The outer covering of the hair fiber is called the: a. sebum b. medulla

c. cuticle

d. cortex

10. What does sebum mix with to form the acid mantle? a. perspiration b. oil

c. amino acid

d. protein

11. What layer of the hair fiber gives hair its pigment and elasticity? a. cuticle b. cortex c. medulla

d. sebum

12. Which layer of hair may be absent in fine or very fine hair? a. cuticle b. outer c. medulla

d. cortex

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13. The helix or coil shape of what part of the hair follicle gives hair the ability to stretch? a. medulla b. cortex c. cuticle d. root sheath 14. Hair falls out during which stage of growth? a. active b. anagen

c. catagen

d. telogen

15. On the average, what stage of hair growth lasts from two to six years? a. resting b. anagen c. catagen

d. telogen

16. Which of these factors does NOT affect hair growth? a. frequent exercise b. disease

d. medication

c. lack of vitamins

17. Which of these factors does NOT influence the behavior of hair? a. heredity b. temperature outside c. environment

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18. How is the protein in the cuticle different than the protein in the cortex? a. harder b. more elastic c. softer 19. Which of the following statements describes fine hair? a. may be up to 40 % cuticle c. may not have any cuticle at all

d. more abundant

b. may be more receptive to permanent waves d. may be less than 10% cuticle

20. What structures group together and form bundles called melanosomes? a. amino acids b. proteins c. melanocytes

d. keratin

21. Melanin in brown/black hair is called: a. pheomelanin b. eumelanin

d. melanosome

c. albinism

22. The number of melanocytes in the hair and pigment produced is determined by: a. papilla b. genes c. melanosomes

d. the dermal papilla

23. People with lighter-colored hair have melanin in the: a. cuticle only b. cortex only

c. cuticle and cortex

d. medulla only

24. A high concentration of pheomelanin will result in: a. red hair b. black hair

c. brown hair

d. dense hair

25. The degree of coarseness or fineness of the hair fiber is referred to as: a. density b. porosity c. viscosity

d. texture

26. What condition is determined by the number of active hair follicles per square inch of scalp? a. texture b. density c. porosity d. viscosity 27. The ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals is known as: a. texture b. density c. capacity d. porosity 28. The ability of hair to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking is called: a. elasticity b. texture c. porosity d. breaking point 29. Which type of porosity describes hair that is able to absorb the least amount of moisture, usually due to the closeness of the cuticle layers? a. resistant b. average c. extreme d. uneven 30. Hair damaged due to chemical services or environment is said to have: a. extreme porosity b. resistant porosity c. uneven porosity

d. average porosity

31. Normal dry hair is capable of being stretched to what fraction of its length? a. one-tenth b. one-fifth c. one-half

d. three-fourths

32. Wet hair is able to be stretched to what percent of its length? a. 10% to 20% b. 40% to 50% c. 70% to 80%

d. 100%

33. Split hair ends start as cracks in the: a. medulla b. cuticle

c. cortex

d. DNA

34. Fragilitis crinium is the technical name for: a. alopecia b. split ends

c. ringed hair

d. matting

35. An abraded cuticle can result from all of the following actions EXCEPT: a. brushing b. shampooing c. clipping hair back tightly d. manipulating the hair when wet

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36. A term applied to matting of the hair is: a. alopecia b. pilica polonica

c. ringed hair

d. monilethrix

37. This hair condition may be caused by an inherited defect in the hair’s keratin protein structure: a. pilica polonica b. alopecia c. trichorrhexis nodosa d. trichonodosis 38. Grayness or whiteness of hair is called: a. hypertrichosis b. canities

c. monilethrix

d. androgenetic alopecia

39. An abnormal coverage of hair on the body where normally only lanugo hair appears describes: a. hypertrichosis b. monilethrix c. trichorrhexis nodosa d. pilica polonica 40. A condition in which beads or nodes form on the hair shaft is called: a. hypertrichosis b. monilethrix c. canities

d. nodules

41. A condition in which alternating bands of gray and dark hair exist is called: a. ringed hair b. canities c. monilethrix

d. hypertrichosis

42. Removal methods used for hypertrichosis range from tweezing to electrolysis, depending on all of the following factors EXCEPT: a. client preference b. location of the hair c. cosmetologist’s preference d. amount of hair to be removed 43. The average head contains how many strands of hair per square inch of surface? a. 1,000 b. 2,000 c. 3,000

d. over 5,000

44. People with what color of hair, on the average, have the fewest hair strands? a. black b. red c. blond

d. brown

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45. People with what color of hair, on the average, have the most hair strands? a. red b. brown c. brunette

d. blond

46. The medical term for head lice is: a. scabies b. tinea favosa

d. pityriasis steatoides

c. pediculosis capitis

47. The medical term for a chronic scalp condition with excess flaking, which accumulates on the scalp or falls to the shoulders is a disorder known as: a. tinea capitis b. tinea favosa c. scabies d. pityriasis 48. The medical term for greasy or waxy dandruff is: a. tinea capitis b. pityriasis capitis

c. pityriasis steatoides

d. tinea favosa

49. What is the term applied to the baby fine hair that is shed shortly after birth? a. lanugo b. vellus c. alopecia

d. follicle

50. The term used for excessive hair loss is known as: a. alopecia b. abraded hair

c. fragilitis crinium

d. trichonodosis

51. The average daily hair loss is: a. fewer than 20 strands b. 40 to 100 strands

c. 250 to 500 strands

d. over 1,000 strands

52. Long, thick, pigmented hair like scalp and eyebrow hair is referred to as: a. vellus b. lanugo c. body

d. terminal

53. The most common form of hair loss in both men and women is: a. androgenetic alopecia b. exposure to sunlight c. telogen effluvium

d. exposure to chlorine

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54. In androgenetic alopecia, a combination of heredity, hormones and age causes: a. the shrinking of scalp follicles b. the lengthening of the hair’s growing cycle c. the anagen phase to become longer d. the telogen phase to become shorter 55. Alopecia, or excessive hair loss, may be caused by any one of the following EXCEPT: a. fungal infection b. bacterial infection c. parasitic organism d. inflammatory disease of the scalp 56. Hair loss identification systems identify the: a. pattern and density of the client’s hair c. hair color variations of the client’s hair

b. texture of the client’s hair d. treatment options

57. Hair loss caused by excessive stretching is called: a. telogen effluvium b. fragilitis crinium

c. pilica polonica

d. traction alopecia

58. Products claiming hair regrowth or hair loss prevention cannot be marketed without what agency’s review and approval? a. OSHA b. EPA c. USDA d. FDA 59. Sudden hair loss in round or irregular patches without the display of an inflamed scalp is referred to as: a. postpartum alopecia b. alopecia areata c. telogen effluvium d. traumatic alopecia 60. Which term is a temporary hair loss that occurs only in women? a. postpartum alopecia b. alopecia areata c. telogen effluvium

d. androgenetic alopecia

61. The premature shedding of hair in the resting phase is: a. telogen effluvium b. alopecia areata c. traumatic alopecia

d. postpartum alopecia

62. Cleansing the scalp and hair by removing dirt, oils and product build-up is the purpose of: a. scalp massage b. shampooing c. draping d. perming 63. What should be done if a client has an infectious disease or disorder of the scalp? a. proceed with the service, with caution b. refuse the service and refer the client to a physician c. use a disinfecting shampoo before proceeding with the service d. proceed with the service 64. Which term describes the scientific method of manipulating the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or stroking with the hands, fingers or an instrument? a. cosmetology b. trichology c. anatomy d. massage 65. When dealing with a client, a professional cosmetologist is responsible for all of the following items EXCEPT: a. safety b. comfort c. transportation d. protection 66. Which of the following statements is NOT true about draping? a. performed prior to hair care service b. protects client’s skin and clothing c. performed after client removes jewelry d. performed after shampooing is complete 67. What type of cape is generally used for shampooing, wet haircutting, wet styling or chemical services? a. plastic or waterproof cape b. cloth cape c. double-layered cloth cape d. light-weight cape 68. Many regulating agencies require all of the following steps EXCEPT: a. use of a neck strip b. prevent direct contact with the client’s skin and cape c. use of a laundered cape d. shampoo prior to draping

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69. What kind of shampoos will make hair dry and brittle? a. shampoos with a high pH b. shampoos that are acid-balanced c. shampoos with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 d. shampoos with a low pH 70. Which type of water contains minerals and does not allow shampoo to lather freely? a. warm b. cold c. soft d. hard 71. Brushing the hair prior to a shampoo service accomplishes all of the following EXCEPT: a. removing tangles b. removing dust and dirt c. stimulating blood circulation d. decreasing blood circulation 72. Which of the following statements is true of removing tangles from the hair? a. start at lowest point of tangled area b. start at the scalp and progress toward the ends of hair c. use long, firm strokes d. start at the highest point of the tangled area 73. Scalp massage involves manipulations performed on the scalp to relax the muscles and stimulate: a. blood circulation b. relaxation c. the hair shaft d. the cortex 74. What kind of massage uses light, gliding strokes or circular motions made with the palms of the hands or pads of the fingertips? a. petrissage b. tapotement c. friction d. effleurage 75. What kind of massage uses heavy kneading and rolling of the muscles? a. petrissage b. tapotement c. friction

d. vibration

76. Light tapping or slapping massage movements are known as: a. petrissage b. tapotement c. friction

d. effleurage

77. The most important scalp massage manipulation that stimulates the sebaceous glands is known as: a. effleurage b. petrissage c. tapotement d. friction 78. What type of shampoos cleanse the hair without correcting any special conditions? a. all-purpose b. medicated c. clarifying

d. anti-dandruff

79. What type of shampoos are used to remove residue such as product build-up? a. liquid dry b. powder dry c. clarifying

d. plain

7

80. What type of shampoos are especially good for cleansing lightened, color-treated or dry, brittle hair? a. acid-balanced b. all-purpose c. soapless d. liquid dry 81. What type of rinse is used after a color service to prevent the color from fading? a. cream b. color c. medicated

d. acid-balanced

82. What type of conditioner helps close the cuticle after an alkaline chemical service? a. normalizing b. moisturizing c. customized

d. instant

83. The structural organization of the hair can be affected by all of the following factors EXCEPT: a. hair dryers b. perms c. water d. shampoo 84. Avoid giving a scalp massage prior to all of the following services EXCEPT: a. relaxing healthy hair b. coloring healthy hair c. perming healthy hair d. shampooing healthy hair 85. What term is used to describe the combination of the sense of smell and the use of plant extracts and their healing abilities? a. electrology b. massage therapy c. aromatherapy d. trichology

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final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines following the answers, jot down topics that you still need to review.

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final review continued 67.

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notes to myself

7

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Trichology:

Lessons learned • • • • • •

SFC_TSG_Ch7.indd 183

The hair strand consists of three layers: the medulla, the cortex and the cuticle. Two types of the pigment melanin give hair its variety of hair colors. Evaluating the texture, density, porosity and elasticity of clients’ hair and determining if there are any noteworthy hair or scalp conditions is done before beginning the client service. Proper draping is important to protect clients’ skin and clothing. The shampooing and conditioning procedure is designed to ensure client comfort as well as to cleanse and prepare the hair for additional services. Scalp massage can both relax muscles to soothe the client and stimulate blood circulation to improve the condition of the hair and scalp. S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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C HA PTER 8

design decisions VALUE Clients will depend on you as their image-maker.

MAIN IDEA Design composition + client consultation + client proportions = design decisions to consider

PLAN

8.1 D E SIGN D E CISION CON SID E R ATION S

Propor tion H a ir Per sonality C l othing L ifestyle

8. 2 C LIE N T CON SU LTATION

Co mmunic ation

8. 3 D E SIGN COMPOSITION

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Des ign Elements Des ign Princ iples

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sm a r tN OT ES 8.1 DESIGN DECISION CON S I D ER ATI ON S Proportion 3 Main Body Shapes

Standard Design Considerations Neck

p ages 2 1 9 - 2 3 0

TAL L & L AN KY

People who have elongated and narrow bone structure; long legs, arms and necks; need volume and longer hair

AVE RAGE

People that have good proportion; can wear all styles from long to short or fuller to close-cut

S HORT & STURDY

Shorter client with heavier bone structure; need hairstyles with height and volume on top

dominant feature add or avoid for balance Short Neck

Short and sturdy client; avoid volume

Long Neck

Tall and lanky client; need mass and fullness; frame with hair

Shoulders

Wide Shoulders Narrow Shoulders

Need hairstyles with a narrow line

8

Need design lines that imply horizontal lines or an A-shape

Entire Body Shapes

Face Shape

Large Figure

More hair

Small Figure

Less hair

Do

Oval

Don’ t

Looks good with almost any hairstyle, length or texture

Round

Short and layered styles; geometric or linear styles; add height

Volume at the sides; no fringes or curls

Need height on top/narrowness at sides; shapes that elongate

No fringe or styles with width at jawline

Square

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sm a r tN OT ES 8.1 D ESIGN DECISIO N CON S I D ER ATI ON S Face Shape (con’t) Oblong

Pear

Diamond

Heart

Needs softness and width; longer and curly hair; chin length with volume at sides

Extremely short hair; avoid height or straight hair

Graduated forms; short upper crest volume; long cut past jawline; curls and whispy hair

No extremely short hair; no bobs that end at jawline

Narrow sides and fullness at chin; bobs, short hair, longer whispy lengths

Height on top; volume at sides; short cropped nape; longer pointed side areas

Volume at the chin and or little volume at top; curls; shorter hair; full at nape

Volume at top; diagonalforward lines; long pointed sides; cropped nape

Most noticeable features: forehead, nose and chin

Straight Profile

Slight outward curvature from front hairline to nose

Convex Profile

Strong outward curvature from nose, forehead, chin

Special Considerations

Hair Hair Color Hair Texture Activated Unactivated

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Don’ t

3 Profile Types

Concave Profile

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Do

p ages 2 3 0 - 2 3 6

Inward curve from forehead, chin, nose • Receding hairline - no part, style forward • Protruding ears - cover with longer hair or fullness • Glasses - body shape, face shape, personality, clothing style, lifestyle Can emphasize the natural skin tone or eye color; analyze the pigmentation of your client’s hair, skin, eyes and lips; client is warm, cool or neutral Surface appearance Has a rough surface, created either through curls or exposed hair ends Smooth, unbroken surface - no hair ends exposed on the surface, straight or blunt

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sm a r tN OT ES 18.1 .1 HE ALT HYDECISION BODY AN CON D M ISNID ER ATI ON S DESIGN OUTG OING

R E SE RV E D

Friendly smile; twinkling eyes; laugh;

Limited facial expressions; hesitant to

introduce themselves; warm; firm

make eye contact; controlled voice; no

handshake; many gestures; liking

highs or lows; wait for others to talk first;

to hug and shake hands

arms folded across chest; soft handshake

Personality

Clothing

Lifestyle

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Natural - clothes found in nature Romantic - silk, flower prints, lace, beads, pastels Dramatic - anything out of the ordinary Gamine - playful and very feminine Classic - coordinated, classic colors, expensive shoes Casual - comfortable clothes

Job/career, hobbies, families, ability to style hair, time spent on hair, money, maintenance

8.2 CLIENT CONSU LTATI ON Communication

HOW

Greeting

Handshake, eye contact Ask questions about lifestyle Explain services, cost, homecare Service client, offer comfort Gain feedback, schedule next appointment, sell retail products

Ask, Analyze and Assess Agree Deliver Complete

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2

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5

p ages 2 4 3 - 2 4 4

8

Involves actions, gestures, tone of voice and speed

5 Steps to Consultation

1

p ages p age2s372 52-42 27

6

7

WHY Break the ice Discover needs Gain feedback Satisfy needs Build relationships

MATERIAL Good appearance, friendly smile, good posture Consultation charts, mirror, listening skills Consultation chart, communcation skills Implements, products, equipment, service skills Friendly smile, communcation skills, business cards, appt. book

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sm a r tN OT ES 8.3 DESIGN COM P OS I TI ON

p ages 2 4 6 - 2 5 1

Design Elements

Form Line Horizontal Vertical Diagonal Curved



Texture Texture Speed

Describes the outline or silhouette of an object Establishes directions that lead the eye through a hairstyle • Opens a narrow face • Parallel to horizon • Adds weight or bulk • Adds width • Makes a wide face narrow • A right angle to horizon • Removes bulk in cutting • Adds illusion of length • Adds narrowness if high • Leads eye to focal area • Allows movements in cutting • Adds width if low • Distracts from hard features • Softens the direction • Blends in haircutting • Softens angular faces Identifies surface appearance Smaller patterns - fast speed; larger patterns - slow speed

Color Effects

Design Principles Balance Symmetrical Asymmetrical

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WA R M COLOR S

COOL COLO RS

Feel warm; cheerful

Remind me of ice; seem distant

L IG HT COLOR S

DA R K COLO RS

Come forward; add brightness

Seem to recede; add depth

• Repetition • Contrast

• Alternation • Progression

The state of equillibrium existing between contrasting, opposite or interacting elements Weight is positioned equally on both sides of a center axis Weight is positioned unequally from a center axis

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. I would use the face shapes to help me analyze what type of hairstyle is going to match my client’s features

Discuss how you would identify the proper design proportions using the client’s dominant features. Role play the 5 steps to consultation. Tell how clothing styles influence design decisions.

Clothing styles influence hairstyles through color and texture.

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

Sound design decisions begin with an understanding of proportion. According to the standard proportions used by most



artists, the head of a woman should be ___ of her overall height, and the head of a man should be ____ of his overall height.

2.

What are the three main body shapes that need to be considered when making a design decision?



_________________________ ________________________ ________________________

3.

Which of the following statements is/are true regarding design decisions concerning the neck and shoulder?



a) Long necks need mass and fullness around them.

b) Wide shoulders need a narrowing design line in back.

c) A tall and lanky person will often have narrow shoulders.

d) All of the above.

4.

TRUE FALSE Concerning the overall body shape, a person with a large body will easily become overpowered by a large hairstyle.

5.

The facial shape needs to be considered when making design decisions. Name the seven most common facial shapes.



____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________



____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________



____________________________

6.

Since clients are viewed from various angles, it is important that their hairstyle complement their profile as well. The



three different types of profiles are ______________, ______________ and ______________.

7.

TRUE FALSE A basic guideline for selecting glasses is to select large glasses for a large face and select small glasses for a small face.

8.

A cosmetologist should never make a design decision without analyzing his or her primary working material—the hair.

8

List six hair factors that should be considered before deciding on a particular style.

_________________________ _________________________ _________________________



_________________________ _________________________ _________________________

9.

Describe the difference between activated and unactivated texture.



activated-

10.

TRUE FALSE A client’s personality, clothing style and lifestyle should all be considered when making a design decision.

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unactivated-

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know chart

MEMORY BOX

1. PAGE 219



GOT IT NOT YET



2. PAGEs 220,221



GOT IT NOT YET



3. PAGEs 222,223



GOT IT NOT YET



4. PAGE 224



GOT IT NOT YET



5. PAGE 225



GOT IT NOT YET



6. PAGE 231



GOT IT NOT YET



7. PAGE 232



GOT IT NOT YET



8. PAGES 233-237



GOT IT NOT YET



9. PAGE 236



GOT IT NOT YET

10. PAGEs 237,239,241



GOT IT NOT YET

I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. ¹/₇th; ¹/₈th

8. color; texture; density;

2. Tall/lanky; average;

condition; length;

short/sturdy

growth pattern

3. d) all of the above

9. Rough surface, lots of

4. False

movement; smooth, no

5. oval; round; square; oblong;

ends exposed

pear; diamond; heart

10. True

6. straight; concave; convex 7. True

SHOW YOU KNOW... Show You Know the facial shapes by placing photos from magazines or photo albums in the frames provided below:

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 8, Design Decisions. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

KNOW

What is the standard most artists use to determine the proportion of a woman’s head to her overall body height?

The head of a woman should be ¹⁄₇th of her overall body height.

State what is meant by

Three-sectioning is an effective way to measure the proportions of the face – front hairline to the middle of the eyebrows; middle of the eyebrows to the tip of the nose and tip of the nose to the tip of the chin.

three-sectioning

Comprehend

in relation to body proportions?

Draw an appropriate hair design for a

Apply

client with a round facial shape.

Drawing could show added height to the crown, width below the jaw line or above temple or the addition of angular shapes.

8 Please compare a hair design for a tall and

Analyze

lanky body shape and short and sturdy

The hair design on a tall and lanky client may touch the shoulders, at least in the back; while a hair design for a short and sturdy client would have emphasis on height and volume on the top to balance out his or her proportions.

body shape.

Create a rhyme using

Synthesize

one of the seven facial shapes as a focus point.

In your opinion, which

Sample: They said her face was very, very square. Little did they know it was really just her hair… Her design was flat on the top and at the sides very wide, which gave the look of a box with equality on every side.

Answers will vary based on opinion.

of the six main style

Evaluate

categories will describe most of the clients you will see in the salon?

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BR AIN COND ITIO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. Design decision considerations involve all of the following techniques EXCEPT: a. ability to communicate b. knowledge of the body and its proportions c. understanding of design composition d. viewing the client’s baby photos 2. According to the standard most artists use, the head of a woman should be how much of her overall body height? a. ¹/₅th b. ¹/₆th c. ¹/₇th d. ¹/₈th 3. According to the standard most artists use, the head of a man should be how much of his overall body height? a. ¹/₅th b. ¹/₆th c. ¹/₇th d. ¹/₈th 4. A man would be considered to have what type of body shape if he is between 5’7” (1.7 m) and 6’1” (1.8 m) tall? a. tall and lanky b. average c. short and sturdy d. very tall 5. Narrow shoulders are enhanced by all of the following design lines EXCEPT: a. horizontal lines b. lines that create an A shape c. flat, wide and oval lines d. lines that create a V shape 6. When determining facial shape, which of the following areas is NOT a consideration? a. analysis of the hairline b. analysis of bone structure c. analysis of the widest area d. analysis of the least dominant area 7. Three-sectioning is an effective way to measure the proportions of the: a. shoulders b. neck c. entire body shape

d. face

8. Which of the following guidelines is NOT true if a client has a diamond facial shape? a. add width at the cheekbones b. use a side part and diagonal fringe c. add width at the forehead d. add width at the jaw line 9. Which of the following guidelines is true if a client has a round facial shape? a. add height to the crown b. add a full fringe c. add width to the sides d. add equal fullness around the entire face 10. Which of the following guidelines is true if a client has a heart facial shape? a. add width at the forehead b. add width at the cheekbones c. leave fullness at nape that can be seen from the front d. leave hair close at nape 11. Which of the following techniques should NOT be considered if a client has a diamond facial shape? a. adding width at the jaw line b. adding width at the forehead c. adding width at the cheekbones d. using a side part and diagonal fringe 12. A client with what type of profile has a very strong outward curvature from the front hairline to the tip of the nose and from the tip of the nose to the chin? a. concave b. convex c. straight d. angled 13. Which of the following statements is true regarding design decisions about clients who wear glasses? a. a square-shaped pair of glasses can give a square face more interest b. select small glasses for a large face c. select large glasses for a large face d. a narrow frame can add width to a narrow face 14. Warm colors contain yellow, orange and/or: a. red b. blue

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c. green

d. violet

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15. Clients with which type of hair density generally do not have enough fullness for longer designs that go past the shoulders? a. light b. medium c. heavy d. thick 16. Which of the following terms does NOT describe hair texture? a. fine b. blonde c. coarse

d. medium

17. Clients who usually wear their hair short and have an eye for interesting detail choose what kind of clothing style? a. dramatic b. classic c. natural d. gamine 18. The three major design elements are texture, color and: a. porosity b. aroma c. form

d. composition

19. The surface appearance of hair such as curly or straight, smooth or layered is called: a. form b. texture c. composition d. color 20. The size of the actual texture pattern is called: a. texture speed b. composition

c. form

d. appearance

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. Review that material.

1.

page 218



6.

page 224

11.

page 230

16.

page 236



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notes to myseLf

8

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Design Decisions:

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Lessons learned

• Proportion plays a major part in how people perceive beauty and compose designs. • Hair designs should be adapted to each client’s body and facial shape, features, hair, clothing and lifestyle. • Greeting, Ask, Agree, Deliver and Complete are the five steps that lead to a successful consultation. • Personality, schedule, environment and professional appearance are key factors that contribute to effective client-stylist communication. • The three design elements of form, texture and color are also the major components of an art form. • The four design principles of repetition, alternation, progression and contrast are the patterns used to arrange design elements within a composition.

things to do



























things to do

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H A IRC UT T IN G

C HA PTER 9

HAIRCUTTING VALUE Haircutting is a valuable skill that will allow you to dramatically change a client’s total look or offer subtle nuances.

MAIN IDEA

Theory of hair + ability to perform haircutting = a satisfied clientele and a successful foundation for further services

plan

9.1 HAIRCUTTING THEORY

Form Haircutting Essentials Haircutting Fundamentals Infection Control and Safety Client Consultation

9

9.2 HAIRCUTTING PROCEDURES

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Haircutting Procedures Overview Solid Form Haircut Solid Form Variation: Increase-Layered Front Hairline Increase-Layered Form Haircut Graduated Form Haircut Uniformly Layered Form Haircut Combination Form Haircut Square Form Haircut Overcomb Techniques Fade Haircut

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sm a r tN OT ES 9.1 H AIRCUT T ING THEORY Haircutting

Form

p ages 2 5 5 - 2 5 8

The Necessary artisticfor carving a healthy, or removing happy life of hair lengths with shears, razors and /or clippers to create various forms and shapes. 6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue

F OR M

SHA P E

Three-dimensional representation of a

Two-dimensional representation

shape; length, width, depth

of form; length and width

Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Points, Lines and Angles

P OIN T

Stimulates blood circulation Encourages proper functioning of organs



HORIZONTAL

LINES

Concave Convex Most Common Angles Structure

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A dot or mark

VERTICAL

DIAGONAL

Parallel to horizon

Straight up and down

Between horizontal

Stable-restful

Weightlessness

and vertical

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professionalSlants well-being Maximum weight Equilibrium either as to well as providing prevention forcertain diseases the left or right RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Curve inward like inside of sphere Scienceoutward that deals healthful living Curve likewith outside of sphere • 45° • 90° Arrangement of lengths across the various curves of the head

NAT UR A L FA LL

NORMAL PROJECTION

Describes the hair as the lengths lay

The hair is viewed abstractly as if it

or fall naturally over the curve of

were projected at a 90˚ angle from

the head

the curves of the head

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H A IRC UT T IN G

sm a r tN OT ES 9.1 HAIRCUT T ING T H EORY Texture

Basic Haircuts 7 Basic Forms

p ages 2 5 8 - 2 6 0

ACT IVAT E D



Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting



Improper Ends are disinfection visibly rough practices



Improper storage or use of food

UNACT IVATED Ends are not visible; smooth

Bad breath = halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh Also known as one-length cut, bob, SOL ID dutch boy, blunt cut, 0° angle cut

Structure: exterior to longer interior Bathe regularlyShorter using soap and progressing use deodorant Shape: Rectangle

Texture: Unactivated

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair

Also known as wedge, 45° angle cut GRADUATE D Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

Structure: Shorter exterior gradually progressing to longer interior Shape: Triangle Texture: Unactivated

I N CRE AS E -L AY E RE D

Also known as shag or 180° angle cut

9

Foundation should always match skin tone Shorter progressing to longer exterior Structure:with Contouring lightsinterior – broadens

Shape: Oval Contouring with darks – diminishes

UNIFORM LY L AY E RE D

Clothing must be clean, shoes polished

Texture: Activated

Also known as layered cut or 90° angle cut

Dress well

Structure: Same length throughout Shape: Circular

Texture: Activated

Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

Use height adjustments on chairs



Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed



When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

COM BIN ATION

Structure: Two or more forms in any combination Shape: Reflects forms chosen

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7

Texture: Activated

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sm a r tN OT ES 9.1 H AIRCUT T ING THEORY

p ages 2 6 0 - 2 6 8

Necessary for a healthy, happy life

Very tapered

GRADATION

6-8Structure: hours ofVery sleepshort necessary prevent fatigue exteriortoprogressing to longer interior similar to graduation; shorter Shape: Rectangle or oval

Texture: Activated

Also known as box cut

SQUARE COMBINATION

Regular exercise routine will help you look and work betterand crown; Structure: Uniform at center top to increase-layered at front graduated and uniform sides and back

Haircutting Essentials

Shears

Taper Shears

Razor

Clippers

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Stimulates blood circulation Square/Rectangle Shape: Encourages proper functioning of organs

Texture: Activated

Balanced diet is essential for personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain Characteristics: 2 straight bladesdiseases RDA - Recommended Dietary Allowance Primary Use: clean, blunt edge Familiarity with cutting positions: Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 Date: Science that deals with healthful living Characteristics: 1 straight blade, 1 serrated blade Primary Use: alternation of lengths Familiarity with cutting positions: Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 Date: Characteristics: straight blade Primary Use: tapered, soft edge Familiarity with cutting positions: Date:

Level 1 Level 2 Level 3





Characteristics: clipper blade with attachments Primary Use: short lengths, outlining Familiarity with cutting positions: Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 Date:

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H A IRC UT T IN G

sm a r tN OT ES 9.1 HAIRCUT T ING T H EORY Haircutting Fundamentals



Impure air ventilation

Areas of the Head



Inadequate lighting



Sectioning



p ages 2 69- 2 7 1 inter

ior

crest

Improper disinfectionfringe practices fringe Improper storage or use of food

exter

ior

Bad breath = halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

to

p

apex

Label the sectioning positions using the words in the Jump Start Box

Bathe regularly using soap and use deodorant

crown

sides

back

Hair care – clean, healthy hair = beautiful hair Good nutrition, exercise and rest = healthy glowing skin

nape

JUMP START BOX Crest Interior Front Back Foundation should always match skin tone Nape Crown Contouring with lights – broadens

Exterior Sides Top

Fringe Perimeter Apex

9

Contouring with darks – diminishes

Head Position

Parting

Position of the client’s head while cutting; most common: Upright - pure result Clothing Forward is achieved must- abeslight clean,underbevel shoes polished Dress Tilted well - refine perimeter hairline

Lines subdivide for control; mostand common: Good that posture enhancessections your physical well-being reduces physical fatigue Use heightvertical, adjustments on chairs Horizontal, diagonal back, diagonal forward, concave, convex Keep head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed

1

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2

3

4

5

6

When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

7

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sm a r tN OT ES 9.1 H AIRCUT T ING THEORY Distribution

p ages 2 7 1 - 2 73

Necessary for a healthy, happy life

NAT UR A L

P E R P E NDICU L AR

6-8 hours of sleep necessary to prevent fatigue The direction hair assumes as it falls naturally;

The hair is combed at a 90° angle from its

used from horizontal, diagonal, concave,

parting; used from any line; used to cut

convex, used to cut solid forms

graduated and layered forms

SHIF TED DIR E CT ION AL Regular exercise routine will help you look and work better Stimulates bloodout circulation Hair is combed of natural fall in any Encourages proper functioning of organs direction except perpendicular to its parting;

The hair is distributed vertically or straight up, horizontally or straight out

used for exaggerated length increases

Projection (Elevation)

Low Medium High Finger and Shear Position

Design Line Stationary Mobile Crosschecking

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Also known as elevation; angle at which the hair is held in relation to the curve of the head prior and while Balanced diet istoessential forcutting personal and professional well-being as well as providing prevention forcertain diseases RDA 0° - 30°- Recommended Dietary Allowance 30° - 60° Science that deals with healthful living 60° - 90° Refers to the position of the fingers and shears; relative to parting • Parallel • Nonparallel Artistic guideline used while cutting Stable guide to which all lengths are directed Moveable guide that consists of a small amount of previously cut hair Used to check a haircut for balance and accuracy using the opposite parting pattern that was used to cut the hair

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sm a r tN OT ES 9.1 HAIRCUT T ING T H EORY Texturizing

p ages 2 73 - 2 7 7

Also referred to as thinning; involves cutting shorter lengths within the form; reduces bulk; creates support; closeness; mobility

Impure air ventilation



Inadequate lighting



Improper disinfection practices



Improper storage or use of food

BAS E

END

MI DSTRAND

Bad breath = halitosis Maintaining healthy teeth and keeping breath fresh

Razor Etching Slithering

Technique in which the ends are carved into - back/forth Also as effilating; shears are opened and closed moving upward; removes bulk; Batheknown regularly using soap and use deodorant creates mobility

Razor Rotation

Performed by rotating comb hair along hair; creates closeness; blending Hair care – clean, healthyrazor hair =and beautiful effects; performed on damp hair= healthy glowing skin Good nutrition, exercise and rest

Texturizing Considerations

FIN E

Texturize as close as ¹⁄₂" from scalp

M E DIUM

Texturize at least 1" away from scalp

Foundation should always match skin tone

COARS E

Contouring with lights – broadens

9

Texturize at least 1.5" away from scalp

Contouring with darks – diminishes

Outlining Special Grooming

• Used to define perimeter hairline • Razor, clippers, shears; follow natural growth pattern Trimming eyebrows, hair, beards, goatees, mustaches Clothing must be clean,ears, shoesnose polished Dress well

Other Fundamental Considerations

Client’s natural growth pattern Good posture enhances your physical well-being and reduces physical fatigue

Fringe and Nape Variations

swept Use height adjustments on chairs Solid; to one side; layered; customized to growth patterns, “V” shape, upside down “U” Keepshape head up, chin level, shoulders relaxed

Growth Patterns

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2

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5



6

When sitting, keep knees together, feet on floor, sit well back in chair

• Widow’s peak • Cowlick

7





•

Whorl

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. Solid - Tank dress

Compare solid, graduated, increase-layered and uniformly layered forms to clothing.

Graduated - A ruffled tuxedo shirt, long top untucked over a shorter skirt Increase Layered - A ruffled skirt, bell bottom pants Uniform - Sun hat

List 3 examples of where you would find horizontal, vertical and diagonal lines used in architecture.

Horizontal - Roofs, floors, window sills, tables, counters Vertical - Columns, doors, walls, windows Diagonal - Roofs, walls, staircases

Create a slogan used to promote a haircut combined with another service in the salon.

For the month of May . . . Cut and Color Caché

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

Almost everything that exists in nature is composed of form, texture and color. Which one of these three characteristics

1.

is the foundation of every haircut?

____________________

2. Texture can refer to the surface appearance of hair. Describe the difference between activated and unactivated texture.

Activated_________________________________________________________________________________________



Unactivated_______________________________________________________________________________________

3. What are the seven basic forms used in haircutting? ____________________ ____________________ ____________________ ___________________ ____________________ ____________________ ______________ 4.

What are the five hand-held implements used in a haircutting procedure?



____________________ ____________________ ____________________ _________________ ________________

5.

TRUE FALSE The hand-held implements you use during a haircutting procedure must be disinfected after each use.

6. Every successful haircut begins with sectioning. The most common sectioning pattern divides the head into four sections. On a separate sheet of paper describe the dividing lines of these four sections. 7.

Distribution refers to the direction hair is combed in relation to the parting. What are the four types of distribution?



____________________ ____________________ ____________________ ___________________

8.

______, also known as elevation, is the angle at which the hair is held in relation to the curve of the head prior to cutting.



a) Projection

9.

TRUE FALSE Never thin the very ends of hair or anywhere around the hairline.

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b) Crosschecking

c) Slithering

d) Texturizing

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MEMORY BOX

know chart



1. page 255



GOT IT NOT YET



2. page 258



GOT IT NOT YET



3. page 259, 260



GOT IT NOT YET



4. page 261



GOT IT NOT YET



5. page 260



GOT IT NOT YET



6. page 270



GOT IT NOT YET



7. page 271



GOT IT NOT YET



8. page 271



GOT IT NOT YET



9. page 275



GOT IT NOT YET

I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. form 2. activated - rough, ends of hair are visible; unactivated smooth, ends of hair not visible 3. solid, graduated, increaselayered, uniformly layered, combination, square, fade (gradation) 4. shears, taper shears, razor, clippers, combs 5. TRUE 6. the front hairline to the nape and from ear to ear

7. natural, perpendicular, shifted, directional 8. a) Projection 9. TRUE

SHOW YOU KNOW... Show You Know the basic forms of haircutting by identifying a current celebrity’s haircut that exhibits the following forms and write a short statement of why you think the haircut they wear is perfect for them. Solid Form



solid form haircut is perfect for Angelica Huston The because the length of her haircut falls to her jawline which further enhances her strong angular features Increase-Layered Form



9

Claudia Schiffer because she’s tall and can wear The increase-layered form haircut is perfect for longer lengths. Plus the layers around her face really bring out her facial features. Graduated Form Tori Spelling The graduated form haircut is perfect for because it adds width to her cheekbone area therby minimizing the length of her face; brings out her eyes Uniformly Layered Form Michelle Williams The uniformly layered form haircut is perfect for because the layers let her natural waves come through for an easy carefree style Combination Form



Jennifer Aniston The combination form haircut is perfect for

because the layers soften and

complement her delicate features and minimize her rounded cheeks and pointed chin

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RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Solid Form Haircut Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a haircut in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble haircutting essentials; wash hands; remove jewelry; analyze hair and scalp; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Subdivide hair into four sections







•• Position head upright







•• Create horizontal parting at nape, across both sections







•• Use natural distribution







•• Position fingers/shears parallel to parting







•• Cut a horizontal stationary design line













•• Distribute hair naturally at crown area







•• Complete back







•• Create a horizontal parting at side and extend to back







•• Distribute hair in natural fall







•• Position fingers/shears parallel to part







•• Cut horizontal line; continue upward; complete side







•• Release and cut first parting on opposite side; check for balance







•• Work upward using horizontal partings, natural distribution and no projection







•• Complete side; crosscheck













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Work upward using horizontal partings, natural distribution and no projection

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

204



TOTAL POINTS = 54 %

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RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Increase-Layered Form Haircut Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a haircut in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble haircutting essentials; wash hands; remove jewelry; analyze hair and scalp; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Subdivide hair from hairline to nape







•• Position head upright







•• Create small center section







•• Establish length guide







•• Distribute hair straight up from center section







•• Position fingers and shears parallel to floor







•• Cut hair from front to crown







•• Take parting at front hairline, from center top to outside corner of eye







•• Distribute hair straight up







•• Use nonparallel finger position







•• Cut hair using center parting as length guide







•• Use portion of previous parting as mobile design line













•• Repeat same cutting procedures on opposite side







•• Crosscheck













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Work toward center back using vertical and pivotal partings, directional distribution and nonparallel finger position

9



Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 51 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

9



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Graduated Form Haircut Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a haircut in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble haircutting essentials; wash hands; remove jewelry; analyze hair and scalp; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Section hair into four sections; position head upright







•• Take horizontal partings at nape







•• Use perpendicular distribution and one-finger projection







•• Position fingers/shears parallel to part







•• Cut from center to one side, then other to establish mobile design line







•• Continue to cut upward, using horizontal partings and a mobile design line







•• Use perpendicular distribution and medium projection







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Use last projected section at crest as stationary design line for remaining back lengths







•• Take slight diagonal-forward partings at sides







•• Use perpendicular distribution and same projection as back







•• Cut parallel to parting; continue to center top







•• Complete side







•• Cut first parting on opposite side; check for balance







•• Complete other side using same procedures; crosscheck













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

206

TOTAL POINTS = 48 %

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RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Uniformly Layered Form Haircut Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a haircut in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations

Preparation •• Assemble haircutting essentials; wash hands; remove jewelry; analyze hair and scalp; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Subdivide hair into five sections; position head upright







•• Establish length guide at center front hairline







•• Begin with center top section; take horizontal parting at front hairline













•• Cut parallel to fingers to establish mobile design line







•• Take next parting, use perpendicular distribution, 90° projection







•• Cut parallel to head







•• Work toward back of top section; complete top section







•• Cut side using top section as length guide







•• Use vertical partings, perpendicular distribution and 90° projection







•• Position fingers parallel to head, cut parallel to fingers







•• Use top and side section as length guide to cut back







•• Use pivotal partings, perpendicular distribution and 90° projection



















To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Use perpendicular distribution, 90° projection; position fingers parallel to head

9

•• Complete other side and back section using same cutting procedures; crosscheck

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 48 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

9



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Combination Form Haircut Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a haircut in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble haircutting essentials; wash hands; remove jewelry; analyze hair and scalp; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3































•• Repeat techniques on opposite side







•• Take curved partings above curved line; use shortest lengths and same projection angle from previous section as length guide













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Subdivide top in half; part out curved section around head; balance curve on both sides; begin at center back

•• Direct all lengths from perimeter hairline upward to curved line; use

perpendicular distribution and medium projection; cut parallel to parting

•• Work from center to behind each ear; use diagonal-forward partings at sides, below curved line •• Distribute hair to shortest lengths behind the ear; cut parallel to diagonal partings; use first parting as stationary design line

•• Use perpendicular distribution and cut parallel to parting; use first

parting as stationary design line for subsequent partings; work to top of each section

•• Release thin center section from front hairline to weight area; use weight line from back section as length guide; project hair at 90°; cut parallel to parting







•• Take partings parallel to center guide; use conversion layering technique; crosscheck







•• Personalize fringe and perimeter hairline using razor etching technique



















•• Use taper shears to create end mobility in interior; use razor rotation in nape; crosscheck

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

208

TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

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RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Square Form Haircut Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a haircut in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble haircutting essentials; wash hands; remove jewelry; analyze hair and scalp; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Begin with center top section; position head upright







•• Take horizontal partings at front hairline; establish mobile length guide







•• Take next parting; distribute hair straight up; position fingers horizontally; cut parallel to fingers







•• Work from front to crown using directional distribution







•• Repeat with next section







•• Complete last top section







•• Distribute hair straight out at sides and back; use vertical partings







•• Position fingers and shears perpendicular to floor; cut parallel to fingers







•• Work from front hairline to center back, using top and previously cut section as length guide







•• Complete one side, then other







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Work from one side to other side in the next lower section and repeat techniques







•• In nape, repeat same techniques as you work from one side to other side







•• Crosscheck; personalize perimeter hairline; texturize ends with taper shears













9

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 45 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

9



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Fade Haircut Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a haircut in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble haircutting essentials; wash hands; remove jewelry; analyze hair and scalp; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Begin at center back and work from hairline upward •• Use clippers, without guard, against skin to cut very short lengths in level one







•• Work from back to side







•• Complete other side; balance line around head







•• Attach small guard to clippers; cut level two







•• Work from center to either side to complete second level







•• Attach larger guard to clippers; cut level three







•• Work up back and sides







•• Work from front hairline to crown







•• Remove guard; blend each level







•• Texturize ends by cutting into hair with tips of shears







•• Outline perimeter













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

210

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TOTAL POINTS = 42 %

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 9, Haircutting. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

What are the basic

KNOW

forms used in

The basic forms used in haircutting include: solid, graduated, increase-layered, uniformly layered, combination, gradation and square combination forms.

haircutting?

Explain projection, also

Comprehend

Projection (elevation) is the angle at which the hair is held in relation to the curve of the head during sculpting.

known as elevation, in your own words.

Demonstrate the cutting positions of

Apply

palm down, palm up and palm to palm.

Analyze the form of a hair sculpture by using a photo from a magazine. Consider the properties of natural fall and normal projection.

Analyze

In haircutting there are two ways to analyze a haircut: natural fall and normal projection. In this photo the natural fall is seen as (student describes where hair falls in the photo based on parts of anatomy) and the normal projection is (student describes the length arrangement of the interior and exterior) of the haircut.

9

Design your own poster using drawings

Synthesize

or photos to illustrate the forms used in haircutting. In your opinion, which growth pattern will be the most difficult for you to work with to produce satisfactory results?

Evaluate 1

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7

Answer based on student opinion.

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BR AIN COND ITIO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. The foundation of every haircut is: a. porosity b. texture

c. color

d. form

2. Which of the following dimensions does a form have but a shape does not have? a. length b. width c. depth

d. texture

3. With unactivated texture, which part of the hair is not visible when viewed in natural fall? a. the root b. the ends c. the cortex d. the medulla 4. The term used to describe the hair as the lengths lay naturally over the curve of the head is: a. normal projection b. texture c. natural fall d. convex 5. What type of form would result from using a 180° angle cut? a. solid b. graduated c. increase-layered

d. uniformly layered

6. A uniformly layered form is also known as a: a. 0° angle cut b. 45° angle cut

d. 180° angle cut

c. 90° angle cut

7. A solid form is also known as a one-length cut, bob, dutch boy or blunt cut and is cut using a: a. 90° angle b. 45° angle c. 0° angle d. 60° angle 8. All of the following descriptions are true about the uniformly layered form EXCEPT: a. circular shape b. activated texture c. same length throughout d. oval shape 9. When cutting with a razor, all of the following results are achieved EXCEPT: a. ends are tapered b. softer appearance to hair c. a diffused form line appears d. regular alternation of short and long lengths 10. The term used for dividing the head into workable areas for the purpose of control is called: a. texturizing b. positioning c. designing d. sectioning 11. The direction the hair assumes as it falls naturally from the head due to gravity is called: a. natural distribution b. perpendicular distribution c. shifted distribution d. directional distribution 12. An angle of 45 degrees would be considered what type of projection? a. low b. medium c. high

d. very high

13. Holding the hair flat to the surface of the head while cutting is using what level of projection? a. low projection b. medium projection c. high projection d. increased projection 14. An artistic guideline used while cutting is called a(n): a. projection line b. elevation line

c. design line

d. crest line

15. When using this type of elevation, the hair is held straight out from the curve of the head while cutting: a. low b. medium c. high d. very high

212

16. Texturizing is also known as: a. thinning b. crosschecking

c. sectioning

d. parting

17. Texturizing involves cutting hair to: a. increase bulk b. decrease fullness

c. decrease mobility

d. reduce bulk

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18. Generally coarse hair should be texturized at least how far away from the scalp? a. ½ inch b. 1 inch c. 1½ inches

d. 2 inches

19. Which of the following statements is true when thinning the hair? a. avoid thinning the very ends of the hair b. always thin around the hairline last c. very curly hair should be thinned while it is wet d. coarse hair should be thinned ½” from the scalp 20. A prominent growth pattern that forms from a point at the front hairline and curves to one side is called a: a. widow’s peak b. cowlick c. whorl d. fringe

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. Review that material.

1.

page 255



6.

page 259

11.

page 271

16.

page 273



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notes to myseLf

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Haircutting:

9

Lessons learned

• • • • •

The two ways to analyze the structure of a haircut are natural fall and normal projection. The four basic forms are: solid form, graduated form, increase-layered form and uniformly layered form. Combination forms include two or more of the four basic forms. The five main sculpting tools are: shears, taper shears, razors, clippers and combs. The primary techniques performed in a haircut include sectioning, head position, parting, distribution, projection, finger and shear position, design line, cross-checking, texturizing, and/or outlining and special grooming. • Other fundamental considerations when haircutting include fringe and nape variations, growth patterns and techniques used when children are clients. 1

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things to do



























things to do



























things to do

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HA IRST Y L IN G

C HA PTER 1 0

HAIRstyling VALUE Hairstyling is the heart of your craft. The reward any artist feels at the moment of accomplishment can be yours when your fingers finish an exciting and successful design for your client.

MAIN IDEA

Form + Texture + Direction + Movement = A Hairstyle

PLAN

10.1 HAIRSTYLING THEORY

Primary Hairstyling Considerations Hairstyling Fundamentals Hairstyling Essentials Infection Control & Safety Client Consultation

10.2 THERMAL STYLING 1

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10.3 WET STYLING

Fingerwaves Pincurls Skip Waves Rollers Wet Styling Procedure Overview Fingerwaves and Flat Pincurls Straight Volume Rollers and Pincurls Curvature Volume Rollers and Pincurls

Thermal Styling Theory Infection Control & Safety Thermal Styling Procedure Overview 10.4 LONG HAIR STYLING Air Forming Solid Form Long Hair Fundamentals Scrunching Layered Form Long Hair Styling Procedures Air Forming Graduated Form: Three-Strand Overbraid Round Brush Three-Strand Underbraid Air Forming Layered Form: French Twist Round Brush Air Forming Combination Form: 9-Row Brush Air Forming Combination Form: Round Brush/Curling Iron Pressing and Curling Press and Curl Variation: No Part

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7

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CHAP TER

10

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 .1 HAIRST Y LING THEORY Hairstyling

Primary Hairstyling Considerations

p ages 3 1 1 - 3 1 5

The art of dressing and arranging hair

Temporary changes in form, texture and direction; form = shape or silhouette in 3 dimensions

Form

round Equal volume

Texture Texture Character

wave

angular

oval

More width than length

More length than width

spiral

crimped

Draw the texture pattern Texture Speed

Direction Movement Parallel

Radial

Slow = large curl pattern; fast = small curl pattern; relates to tool diameter

Toward the face; away from the face



Motion begins from multiple points of origin



Motion begins from a single point



12 9 counterclockwise

3

clockwise

6

Formula for Success

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Form + Texture + Direction + Movement = Beautiful Hairstyling

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HA IRST Y L IN G

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 .1 HAIRST Y LING TH EORY

p ages 3 1 6 - 3 1 9

Hairstyling Fundamentals

Creating the desired direction and movement, combined with various degrees of volume and closeness.

Distribution and Molding

Distributing or combing the hair into a basic pattern; molding or shaping process of combing wet hair into desired position

Radial Distribution Curved, Parallel Distribution Hair Wrapping

Triangular shapes Oblong shapes

Molding or wrapping hair around head so finished style takes on shape of head

Sectioning Straight Shapes Draw the 7 straight shapes

Curved Shapes

10

Draw the 4 curved shapes Partings

Partings are lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair

HOR IZONTA L Horizontal partings within this rectangle shape create rectangle bases

1

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R A DIA L Radial partings within this circular shape create triangleshaped bases

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

10

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 .1 HAIRST Y LING T HEORY Components of a Curl Components of a Roller, Thermal-Iron or Round Brush Curl

Base Controls for Hairstyling Base Size

p ages 3 1 9 - 32 2

Base, stem and circle Components are the same regardless of the tool

base

stem (arc)

circle

Affects volume achieved

1x, 1.5x, 2x; relates to the diameter of a tool

Tool Position

ON BASE (Full Base)

Maximum volume; curl sits between partings

HALF-OFF BASE (Half base)

Less volume; curl sits on top of bottom parting

OFF BASE

Least volume; curl sits below bottom parting

UNDERDIRECTED

Reduced volume; curl sits on lower portion of base

OVERDIRECTED (Volume Base)

Exaggerated direction; curl sits in upper portion of base

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HA IRST Y L IN G

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 .1 HAIRST Y LING THEORY

p ages 32 3 - 32 5

How did you do that?

In the space provided below, describe the components used to create each hairstyle.

Air form, iron curl; straight shapes; side part; maximum volume in top

Roller, pincurl set; curved shapes; no parts; maximum volume in top

Base Control– Indentation

Air form, curling iron; curved and straight shapes; volume along perimeter

Produces hollow space; base is flat, curl turns upward

Finishing the Hairstyle Combout of the Style

FIRST 1. Relax the set

10

THEN 2. Reestablish the lines of the design NOW 3. Backbrush and/or backcomb

AFTER 4. Refine the lines and texture

FINALLY 5. Detail

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10

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 .2 T hermal styling Thermal Styling

Thermal Styling Theory

p ages 33 0 - 3 3 3

Drying and styling hair with a hand-held dryer and various tools Temporary texture changes are possible because physical bonds can be broken with water and heat, then reformed

Air Forming Air Forming Guidelines

• Use heat protected (thermal) styling lotion • Remove excess water • Dry on high setting, medium for styling, cool air to set • Direct air flow in same direction as cuticle • Keep dryer 3-5 inches from the hair • Use caution with bleached hair

Hot Brush or Comb

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FING E R ST Y LING

ROUND BR US H

Using the fingers as a tool; naturallooking finishes

Large, smooth results; long hair Small, curly results; short hair

Air flow and heat create curl patterns and dry the hair at the same time

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HA IRST Y L IN G

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 . 2 T hermal styling Hair Pressing

Silking; temporarily straightening tightly curled hair

F I NE HA IR Delicate; treat gently; low heat, low pressure

Thermal Irons Thermal Curling

p age 3 3 3 - 3 3 8

ME DIUM HA IR

COA RS E HAIR

Least difficult to press

Resistant; more heat, more pressure

Also called curling irons; available in a variety of diameters Produces straight, crimped, undulating textures

MARCEL Another name for thermal irons; Marcel Grateau created the Marcel iron ELECTRIC

Corded, cordless heating element

Curling Iron Techniques Base-to-Ends

Ends-to-Base Ends

Marcel Spiral

1

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Begin at base, turn iron half a revolution at a time, feeding entire strand into the iron

10

Begin at ends, rotate iron to the base Begin at ends rotate iron to achieve curl on ends only; volume - under; indentation - up Surface waves, use comb and iron inserted on top of the strand Begin at ends, turn iron to vertical position and turn iron upwards; begin at base, rotate iron as you feed hair strand

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7

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CHAP TER

10



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Air Forming Solid Form Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client













Procedure •• Remove excess moisture; detangle hair; apply appropriate styling product and distribute through hair

•• Section head; take horizontal partings across nape; use first few rows of 9-row brush to pick up hair lengths







•• Dry base, midstrand and then ends; direct airflow on top of brush downward; work from center to either side







•• Position brush underneath hair







•• Use same technique on subsequent horizontal partings, working up back of head from center to either side







•• Use portion of previously air-formed section to blend







•• Extend horizontal partings to front hairline







•• Work to top using same techniques







•• Direct the hair back off the face













•• Use same technique throughout design







•• Use finishing procedures to style hair as desired













•• Position round brush underneath hair and rotate ends under at least one revolution

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

222

TOTAL POINTS = 42 %

UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES

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HA IRST Y L IN G



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Scrunching Layered Form Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Distribute styling product through hair







•• Attach diffuser







•• Tilt head back







•• Position diffuser beneath exterior strands







•• Lift dryer up into lengths







•• Lift hair at scalp with your fingers







•• Dry ends, midstrand and then base







•• Work toward interior and complete back using same techniques







•• Tilt head to either side and use same techniques







•• Work toward interior and complete using same techniques













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

Completion •• Offer a prebook; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

10 Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 36 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

10



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Air Forming Graduated Form: Round Brush Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3































•• Work from center to either side to complete nape lengths







•• Switch to larger diameter round brush on longer lengths; extend slightly diagonal forward partings to front hairline































To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Apply medium-hold styling lotion; use vent brush and air form hair to remove excess moisture; section hair for control

•• Release horizontal parting across nape; begin with smaller diameter round brush

•• Position brush underneath hair and rotate brush from ends to base; direct airflow above and below brush; work from center to either side •• Use portion of previously air-formed section and a bricklay pattern to blend bases as you work up through nape

•• Continue to use volume base control with round brush; stagger bases as you work from center to front hairline on either side

•• Position brush parallel to parting; continue to use same techniques as you work to top of head; complete volume base control with round brush

•• Use finishing procedures to style as desired

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products;

discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

224

TOTAL POINTS = 33 %

UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES

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HA IRST Y L IN G



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Air Forming Layered Form: Round Brush Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Use vent brush and remove moisture from hair







•• Section head for control







•• Release horizontal parting across nape







•• Position brush underneath hair and rotate brush upward







•• Dry base, midstrand and ends







•• Work from center to either side using volume base control







•• Use diagonal-forward partings as you work up back of head







•• Use portion of previously air-formed section and stagger bases







•• Use vertical partings as you work toward crown and continue







•• Overdirect the fringe for exaggerated volume







•• Use finishing procedures and style as desired













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Apply styling product

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

10

TOTAL POINTS = 42 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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225

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CHAP TER

10



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Air Forming Combination Form: 9-Row Brush Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Find natural part; section back in half







•• Position 9-row brush on top of nape lengths and air form







•• Above nape, begin at center; position brush underneath hair













•• Use portion of previous partings and continue to work toward crown







•• At sides, use same techniques from horizontal partings













•• Continue to work upward using same techniques







•• Lift hair along parting with first few rows of brush; repeat same procedures on opposite side







•• Use round brush throughout interior







•• Use finishing procedures to style hair as desired













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Take slight diagonal-forward partings and work from center to behind ear

•• At front hairline, position brush underneath hair and direct lengths toward face

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

226

TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES

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HA IRST Y L IN G



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Air Forming Combination Form: Round Brush/Curling Iron Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Section hair; use 9-row brush to air form nape lengths; above nape, work from center to either side

•• Lift hair at scalp to create volume, then position brush underneath the hair to create curved end texture







•• Work upward using same technique; direct hair away from face







•• Work toward front using same techniques from vertical partings







•• At front sides, create curvature movement away from face; complete front sides







•• Create volume curved end texture in back; work toward crown using progression of volume base controls







•• Create maximum volume at crown and top; overdirect hair at fringe area

























•• Use overdirected base control at fringe area







•• Use finishing procedures and style hair as desired













•• Begin at back for curling-iron techniques; on shorter lengths, create curved end texture

•• Create progression of volume curling-iron base controls as you work upward •• Use portion of previous curl and progress to maximum-volume base control at crown; continue to use maximum-volume base control as you work from center top to sides

10

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 42 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

10



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Pressing and Curling Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Section hair for air forming







•• Air form to reduce natural curl pattern







•• Section hair for thermal pressing; apply pressing oil







•• Test temperature of pressing comb







•• Insert teeth of pressing comb underneath parting







•• Turn comb and press hair with spine as you work from base to ends







•• Feed hair slowly through comb as you work down toward the ends







•• Complete back using horizontal partings







•• Press the front using diagonal partings







•• Press hairline last







•• Heat marcel irons







•• Test the temperature of the irons







•• Curl hair as desired







•• Complete the combout style













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

228

TOTAL POINTS = 48 %

UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES

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HA IRST Y L IN G

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 . 3 WET styling Wet Styling

Fingerwaves

Pincurls

Components of a Pincurl

p ages 3 65 - 3 69

Wet hair manipulated into desired shapes and movements then allowed to dry Ageless form of hairstyling; the art of shaping and defining hair into graceful waves; use your fingers to create waves; two complete oblongs connected by a ridge

Also known as sculpture curls, are one of many ways you are able to temporarily change the direction and texture of the hair Base, stem and circle

Types of Pincurls

F L AT Base, stem and circle are flat; closeness

VOLUME Base and stem are lifted; circle turns under; fullness, height

Pincurl Base Shapes

• Triangle • Square/Rectangle • Crescent

Base Control – Pincurls On Base (no stem) Half-Off Base (half-stem) Off Base (full-stem) Underdirected Overdirected

Size of base in relation to circle; position of circle

1

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2

3

4

5

INDE NTATION Base is flat, stem and circle are lifted; hollow space and flare

10

Entire circle positioned on the base Half of circle is positioned below base Stem and circle positioned below base Circle sits on lower portion of base Circle sits on upper portion of base

6

7

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CHAP TER

10

sm a r tN OT ES 1 0 .3 WET styling Skip Waves Ridge Curl

Rollers

Roller Diameter

Roller Shapes

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p ages 37 1 - 373

Wave pattern that combines finger waves and pincurls One oblong followed by a row of pincurls (instead of two)

Rollers are used to set the hair and can achieve many of the same effects that are achieved with pincurls Chosen according to desired curl pattern; smaller = curlier

Straight = cylinder rollers Curved = cone rollers

ST R A IG HT

CURVAT URE

Rectangles - same length; triangles progression of lengths; may be bricklay

Half circles - same length roller; 1 diameter away from point of origin

1

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7

4/19/10 3:47:05 PM

HA IRST Y L IN G

IT ’S YOUR T URN ! Using the 7 facial shapes provided, sketch a design that best suits each shape. Colored pencils will allow you to add color to your creation.

10

Remember your fundamentals of hairstyling! Form Movement Molding Air Forming Wet Set

1

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2

3

4

5

Texture Distribution Sectioning Roller Set

6

7

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CHAP TER

10



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Fingerwaves and Flat Pincurls Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Apply styling product







•• Determine where to begin first oblong







•• Mold first direction (toward closed end) of oblong













•• Create the ridge, starting at the concave end







•• Complete ridge of first oblong







•• Continue fingerwaving







•• Complete fingerwaves







•• Set flat pincurls beginning at concave end of last oblong







•• Complete flat pincurls







•• Use finishing procedures to style as desired













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Position index finger in center of shape and mold second direction (toward open end)

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

232

TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES

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HA IRST Y L IN G



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Straight Volume Rollers and Pincurls Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3































•• Set remaining triangles using same procedures







•• Set a row of straight volume pincurls







•• Set a row of semi-stand-up pincurls







•• Mold remaining nape lengths in curvature movement







•• Position client underneath dryer







•• Remove rollers and use finishing procedures to style hair













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Apply setting lotion •• Mold and section four interior triangular shapes radiating from center crown

•• Begin at crown •• Set triangle using straight volume base control within bricklay pattern

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

10

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 36 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

10



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Curvature Volume Rollers and Pincurls Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide styling and finishing techniques to complete a hairstyle to the satisfaction of the client.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Mold and scale half-circle at front hairline







•• Mold and scale expanded circle at sides







•• Mold and scale straight shape between circle shapes







•• Mold remaining lengths to conform to curve of head







•• Set half-circle using curvature volume base control







•• At sides, set expanded circle using curvature volume base control













•• Set remaining lengths using straight volume pincurl control







•• Position client underneath dryer







•• Remove rollers and use finishing procedures to style hair













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• In back, set straight shape using straight volume base control within bricklay pattern

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

234

TOTAL POINTS = 36 %

UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES

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HA IRST Y L IN G

sm a r tN OT ES LONGHAIR HAIRstyling 1 01 0.4.4LONG styling Long Hair Fundamentals

Form

p ages 3 8 4 - 39 3912

Special occasion service; consider: facial features, body structure, hair length and density, occasion, wardrobe, personal sense of style

Placement of volume

Three-Strand Overbraid

Overbraid - strands crossed over center; also called French braid, invisible braid

Three-Strand Underbraid

Underbraid - strands crossed under center; also called visible braid

you be the judge

Using your judgment skills, offer comments on the following statements. Share and discuss with a classmate the reasons that led to your choices. 1. What is the MOST POPULAR hairstyle worn today?

Layered bobs

Seen on TV; easy to care for; flatter many people 2. What is the MOST DIFFICULT hairstyle for you to create? Fingerwaves

Why is this style so popular?

Why is this style difficult for you to create?



10

Dexterity in my fingers; don’t do it often

3. What is the EASIEST hairstyle for you to create? Air forming solid forms 4. Which hairstyle do you feel will be the most FINANCIALLY rewarding for you? Air forming Why do you feel this style will be the most financially rewarding?



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Many people like their hair air formed

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RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Three-Stand Overbraid Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a long hair style in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Distribute hair straight back







•• Take crescent-shaped section at fringe area







•• Subdivide hair into three equal strands













•• Cross right strand over center strand again







•• Take diagonal parting on right side and join with center strand







•• Switch hands and repeat same procedures on other side







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Cross right strand over center strand, then cross left strand over center strand

•• Pick up consistent-size partings and work side to side using same procedures







•• Toward nape, conform hands to curve of head







•• Continue three-strand overbraid technique toward ends







•• Secure ends with coated elastic band













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

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TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

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HA IRST Y L IN G



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Three-Strand Underbraid Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a long hair style in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Distribute hair straight back







•• Take crescent-shaped section at fringe area







•• Subdivide hair into three equal strands













•• Cross right strand under center strand again







•• Take diagonal parting on right side and join with center strand







•• Switch hands and repeat same procedures on other side







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Cross right strand under center strand, then cross left strand under center strand

•• Pick up consistent-size partings and work side to side using same procedures







•• Toward nape, conform hands to curve of head







•• Continue three-strand underbraid technique toward ends







•• Secure ends with coated elastic band













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

10

TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

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RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

French Twist Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide a long hair style in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Distribute hair to one side







•• Secure hair with line of interlocked bobby pins, slightly off center







•• Take diagonal parting at nape







•• Fold section over bobby pins







•• Secure inside of roll near the edge of fold







•• Wrap any remaining lengths around finger and secure inside roll













•• Work to front







•• Roll remaining lengths away from face







•• Finish hair as desired













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Continue to take diagonal partings and fold each section slightly over previous section

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

238

TOTAL POINTS = 36 %

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HA IRST Y L IN G

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Steam Machine - set dry hair with self adhering rollers and then pass the steam wand gently over set lengths

Our salon can be opened exclusively for you and your wedding party. Book an appointment for 3 hours and our stylists will pamper you and your special guests.

Describe an invention that you have just created to use when styling hair

Create a promotional ad for wedding parties regarding hairstyling.

You and your friend are invited to our salon for a special prom design offer. When both of you book your hair appointment you will each receive a manicure at 50% off regular price.

Create a promotional ad inviting prom attendees to visit the salon for the prom styles.

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

What are the four primary considerations a hairstylist must reflect upon before creating a style design?



___________________ ___________________ ___________________ ___________________

2.

Define the following parts of a curl:



Base ___________________________________________________________________________



Stem __________________________________________________________________________



Circle _________________________________________________________________________

3.

Base sizes are determined by the size of the tool being used. What are the most commonly used base sizes?



____________ ____________ ____________

4.

TRUE FALSE An on-base tool position will give more volume and will have a stronger base strength than a half-off base tool position.

5.

_______________ is the technique of drying and/or styling hair by using a hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your



fingers, a variety of brushes, pressing comb and/or a thermal curling iron.

6.

In a thermal styling procedure, it is the __________ bonds that are broken by both water and heat.

7.

Thermal hairstyling is considered to have a _____________ effect because additional heat or moisture will cause the hair to



return to its original shape or configuration.

8.

Describe how to tell if a stove-heated thermal iron is too hot.________________________________________________



__________________________________________________________________________________________________

9.

TRUE FALSE The use of heat-protective styling products can help avoid damaging the hair during a thermal hair styling procedure.

10.

_______________ refers to the area of hairstyling in which the hair is manipulated into the desired shapes and movements while



wet and then is allowed to dry.

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MEMORY BOX 1. page 312



GOT IT NOT YET



2. page 319



GOT IT NOT YET



3. page 320



GOT IT NOT YET



4. page 321



GOT IT NOT YET



5. page 330



GOT IT NOT YET



6. page 330



GOT IT NOT YET



7. page 330



GOT IT NOT YET



8. page 331



GOT IT NOT YET



9. page 332



GOT IT NOT YET



10. page 365



GOT IT NOT YET

know chart I KNOW: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

I NEED TO STUDY:

form, texture, direction, movement base - the area between partings within a shape stem - hair between scalp and first turn of hair around roller circle - hair that is positioned around the tool 1x, 1.5x, 2x True Thermal Styling hydrogen

7. 8. 9. 10.

temporary use white paper towel; if towel scorches after 5 seconds, the iron is too hot True Wet styling

SHOW YOU KNOW... Sketch hairstyles from the following decades. A few have been done for you. Explain your sketch.

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1900’s

1920’s

1930’s

1940’s

1950’s

1960’s

1970’s

1980’s

1990’s

The Future!

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 10, Hairstyling. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

KNOW

What are the lines called that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair?

Comprehend

Describe what determines the amount of movement a pincurl will have.

Apply

Draw and label the straight shapes used in hair design.

The lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair are called partings.

The amount of movement a pincurl will have is determined by the stem. Longer stems create more movement and shorter stems create more base strength and less movement.

Rectangle

Compare the effect of on-base and offbase tool positions for indentation base control.

Analyze

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Synthesize

Create a promotional ad for the upcoming prom season that advertises your specialty in longhairstyling.

Evaluate

In your opinion, what is the most popular hairstyle today?

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Triangle

Diamond

Kite

Trapezoid

The on-base tool position for indentation base control results in maximum volume and maximum base strength while the off-base tool position results in minimum base strength and maximum curl mobility.

10

Answer based on student opinion.

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a class act Now that you have completed your work in Hairstyling, it’s time to demonstrate your creative talents in a class competition. Each member of the class will create an entry for “Best Hair Design.” Students will plan, sketch, demonstrate and explain their creations. Remember: Before starting you must sketch the design, list key features to be explained and name your creation!

SKETCH

KEY FE ATURES

DESIGN NAME: All designs will be judged for:

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points: _____________



points: _____________



points: _____________

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Technique

Explanation



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TOTAL POINTS: _____________

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BRAIN COND IT IO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. The term texture character refers to the: a. pattern of texture b. thickness of texture

c. direction of texture

2. A long, slow wave would be an example of: a. crimped texture c. a slow-speed texture pattern

b. a fast-speed texture pattern d. spiral curls

d. movement of texture

3. Which shape is generally recognized as the ideal face shape? a. oval b. oblong c. square

d. round

4. Center parts generally work well with what type of face shape? a. oval b. oblong c. square

d. long and thin

5. The process of combing wet hair into the desired position is referred to as molding or: a. parting b. shaping c. curving d. distributing 6. An example of a straight shape used in sectioning the hair is a(n): a. triangle b. oblong c. oval

d. circle

7. Lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair are called: a. roller lengths b. forms c. partings d. bases 8. What is the area between partings within a shape called? a. circle of a curl b. curl base c. form

d. stem

9. When working with rollers or thermal irons, partings will generally be: a. oval b. curved c. straight

d. round

10. The section of curl between the scalp and the first turn of the roller is called: a. form b. base c. circle

d. stem

11. What determines the size of the circle of a curl? a. diameter of the stem b. diameter of the base

d. length of the tool

c. diameter of the tool

12. The combination of the size of the base and the position of the curl in relation to the base is called: a. diameter control b. combination control c. curl control d. base control 13. Which diameter size means the area between partings is exactly the same as the diameter of the roller? a. 1/2 b. 1 c. 1 1/2 d. 2

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14. The length of a section to be placed on a roller should be: a. the same as the diameter of the roller b. the same as the length of the roller c. 1 1/2 times the length of the roller d. 2 times the length of the roller 15. An on-base tool placement will result in the strongest base strength and: a. the most volume b. the longest curl c. the smallest diameter

d. the prettiest texture

16. Using a cushion brush to brush all the way to the scalp to integrate the bases is called: a. relaxing the set b. indentation c. sectioning d. detailing 17. The technique of drying and/or styling hair by using a hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers, a variety of brushes, pressing comb and/or a thermal curling iron is called: a. wet styling b. directional styling c. thermal styling d. form styling 18. Before brushing or combing the hair after a thermal styling procedure, make sure the hair is: a. moist b. warm c. shampooed d. completely cool

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19. Air forming is another term for: a. blow drying b. thermal ironing

c. backcombing

d. scrunching

20. Why does hair that is too wet not effectively transfer heat? a. water keeps disulfide bonds in a softened state b. water keeps hydrogen bonds in a softened state c. water keeps disulfide bonds in a strengthened state d. water keeps hydrogen bonds in a strengthened state 21. Another name for silking is: a. hair pressing b. scrunching

c. fingerwaving

d. wet styling

22. What type of hair can be resistant to hair pressing? a. fine b. medium

c. coarse, overly curly

d. thin

23. Who was the first person to introduce thermal irons? a. Thomas Edison b. Benjamin Franklin

c. Henry Ford

d. Marcel Grateau

24. Manipulation of a thermal iron when styling involves all of the following techniques EXCEPT: a. rolling the iron b. quick clicking movement c. maintaining a closed clamp d. opening and closing the clamp 25. All of the following factors are true when using a thermal iron on tinted, white or very fine hair EXCEPT: a. lower iron temperature is used b. highest iron temperature is used c. hot iron is closed lightly on a damp towel before curling d. iron is tested on hair prior to service to prevent scorching 26. Which technique creates volume and support at the base and a consistent curl pattern throughout the strand? a. base-to-ends b. ends-to-base c. ends d. marcel technique 27. What type of thermal iron will produce an “S” pattern? a. straightening b. crimping c. undulating

d. flat

28. Which of the following statements is true concerning safety while performing a thermal styling technique? a. use higher temperatures and longer contact time on hair that has been chemically altered b. allow the tool to come in contact with scalp c. if a burn should occur, flush with cold water and let the skin completely cool d. always perform procedure on wet hair 29. Which of the following steps would NOT be taken if a burn occurs on your client during a thermal styling procedure? a. flush with cold water b. flush with hot water c. blot dry d. apply first aid cream 30. When performing an air-forming procedure on a solid form, which of the following steps is taken first? a. detangle hair b. direct airflow on top of brush c. remove excess moisture d. section the head 31. Which of the following steps is NOT included in the completion phase of air forming? a. offer a chance to prebook visit to client b. use volume base control with a round brush c. disinfect implements and clear workstation d. wash your hands with antibacterial soap 32. All of the following statements are TRUE when working with double-processed hair EXCEPT: a. avoid high temperatures from the blow dryer b. avoid high temperatures from the thermal iron c. no additional care is needed d. use thermal-protectant products 33. What is created by two complete oblong shapings that are joined and connected by a ridge? a. a pincurl b. a flat pincurl c. a skip wave d. a fingerwave 34. Another name for a pincurl is: a. fingerwave b. skip wave 244

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c. sculpture curl

d. volume wave

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35. Which types of pincurls are used for closeness? a. flat pincurls b. volume pincurls

c. indentation pincurls

d. stand-up pincurls

36. What section determines the amount of movement a pincurl will have? a. base b. stem c. circle

d. shape

37. What determines the width and strength of a wave? a. size of the base b. size of the arc

d. size of the stem

c. size of the circle

38. What curls are large stand-up pincurls that achieve a similar effect to hair wound around a roller, but result in less volume? a. barrel b. indentation c. flat d. fingerwave 39. What type of curl is used to create hollow space and flair? a. indentation pincurls b. flat pincurls c. volume pincurls

d. skip waves

40. A curl that is not quite a flat curl and not quite a stand-up curl and is used to create a blend from areas of volume to areas of closeness is called a: a. transitional pincurl b. volume pincurl c. skip wave d. flat pincurl 41. Alternating triangle base shapes help avoid: a. closeness b. splits

c. volume

d. texture

42. What is used to keep the base flat while curving the stem with a comb when forming a pincurl? a. spine of the comb b. tail of the comb c. little finger d. index finger 43. A wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and flat pincurls is: a. ridge curl b. connecting ridge c. skip wave

d. volume wave

44. Use of rollers instead of pincurls will: a. increase the setting time c. reduce the setting time

b. double the setting time d. produce a weaker set

45. Backbrushing achieves all of the following EXCEPT: a. ratting b. matting

c.relaxing

d. French lacing

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines following the answers, jot down topics that you still need to review.



1.

page 314



7.

page 319

13.

page 321



2.

page 314



8.

page 319

14.

page 321



3.

page 316



9.

page 319

15.

page 321



4.

page 316

10.

page 319

16.

page 324



5.

page 316

11.

page 319

17.

page 330



6.

page 318

12.

page 320

18.

page 330

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final review continued 19.

page 331

28.

page 339

37.

page 366

20.

page 332

29.

page 339

38.

page 367

21.

page 333

30.

page 343

39.

page 367

22.

page 334

31.

page 350

40.

page 367

23.

page 334

32.

page 358

41.

page 367

24.

page 336

33.

page 365

42.

page 370

25.

page 336

34.

page 366

43.

page 371

26.

page 337

35.

page 366

44.

page 372

27.

page 338

36.

page 366

45.

page 380

notes to myself

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Hairstyling:

Lessons learned • • • • • 246

Hair design consists of working with form, texture, direction and movement to achieve the final design look. Wet design is achieved by manipulating the hair into set positions while wet and then maintaining it in these positions while drying. Thermal design uses heat energy to form the hair into new texture patterns. Long hair design combines long hair techniques and creativity to transform the hair into distinctive, dramatic or formal designs. Hair design, achieved by thermal design, wet design and long hair design, is considered temporary because the results can be undone by brushing, combing and shampooing. UNIT 2 HAIR SERVICES

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wi g s

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a d d it io n s

C HA PTER 1 1

WIGS AND HAIR ADDITIONs VALUE Meeting the needs of clients who desire a variety of styles or are in need of looking and feeling better due to hair loss will be rewarding and fulfilling to you as a stylist.

MAIN IDEA Wigs and Hair Additions + Variety of Styles = Looking and Feeling Better Following Hair Loss

PLAN

1 1 .1 W IGS A N D HA IR PIE CE S

H i story Composition, Colors and Construc tion Wi g and Hairpiece Essentials I nfec tion Control and S afety C l ient Consultation Wi g Services H airpieces

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1 1 . 2 H AIR A D D ITION S

H air Addition Methods

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 1 .1 WIGS and hairpieces Wigs and Hairpieces

p ages 395 - 399

Wigs are designed to cover the entire head and hairpieces to cover only specific areas of the head.

structure

Composition, Colors and Construction

C OMPOS ITIO N

CO LO RS

CONSTRUCTION

Wig Composition Human hair

Cap wigs

70 standardized colors on the J and L ring

Animal hair Synthetic fibers

Capless wigs Variety of colors; able to create special effects

Blend

Modacrylic Fibers

A human hair strand will burn slowly and produce an odor; a synthetic fiber will “ball up” on the end and extinguish itself or burn rapidly and produce no odor.

Wig Construction Cap Wigs

Capless Wigs

Wefts

Synthetic; formulated from petroleum products; form very long threads (monofilaments); may not always resemble real hair, but technology has produced realistic results Consist of elasticized mesh-fiber base to which fiber is attached; available in many sizes; most often handmade Consist of rows of hair wefts sewn to strips of elastic; weigh only a few ounces; comfortable Wigs known as “machine-made” consist of hair fiber sewn into strips Hair and/or synthetic fibers may attach to the wig cap or base in one of 3 methods: hand-tied, machine-made, or semi hand-tied

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 1 .1 WIGS and hairpieces Wig Services Wig Measurement and Fitting Fitting Guidelines

p ages 4 0 2 - 4 0 5

Client’s comfort is as important as the way the wig looks

Brush client’s hair; if long pin it flat 1. Circumference: Begin at hairline in middle of the forehead; circle entire head; run tape just above ears around back and return to starting point 2. Forehead to Nape: Center of forehead over the crown to nape; for most comfort, bend client’s head back to find spot at base of skull where wig will rest Measure from ear to ear (just above ears) over crown 3. Ear to Ear: of head 4. Temple to Temple: Measure from temple to temple over occipital bone

Putting on a Wig Guidelines

first

1. Brush client’s hair back from face and up from the back hairline; pin to secure

then

2. Cover client’s head with a fine net or wig cap

now

3. Place front hairline of wig over and lower than the client’s hairline. Hold and position rest of wig

finally

4. Adjust and form the wig perimeter to fit client’s head

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2

Wig Blocking Guidelines

• Select correct size canvas block • Cover block with clear plastic and secure it with wig pins  • Place wig on block and secure in following areas: center front, both temples, center of nape, corners of nape

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 1 .1 WIGS and hairpieces Customizing or Fitting a Wig

Stretching or Shrinking Cap Wigs

Cleaning and Conditioning

p ages 4 0 5 - 4 0 9

dart

Made vertically to remove width in the nape area from ear to ear

tuck

Made horizontally to shorten a wig from the front to the nape

stretching

shrin king

Use block one size larger

Use block one size smaller

DI F F EREN C ES 

HUMA N HA IR

SY NT HE T IC H AIR

Should be cleaned every two

Does not require cleaning as often

to four weeks

as human hair, every 6 to 12 weeks is sufficient



Should be conditioned after each cleaning

Coloring Services

Does not require conditioning

Most wig manufacturers can custom color wigs and hairpieces to almost any color Color should not be applied to synthetic wigs and hairpieces; human-hair wigs can be colored with temporary rinses, semi-permanent colors, fillers or low-level (darker) oxidative colors

Cutting and Shaping

Majority of wigs are “pre-cut” Most wigs are produced with about twice as much hair as that on the human head; often necessary to taper or thin to decrease bulk

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 1 .1 WIGS and hairpieces Setting and Styling

ALERT

p ages 4 1 0 - 4 1 4

Can either be wet set or set when dry; closer shapes at the nape; make sure hairline is covered Don’t put synthetic wigs and hairpieces under a dryer; excessive heat can melt fiber

Hairpieces

Fill in the missing elements for the chart.

WHAT IS IT?

H O W IS IT U S E D ?

W i g let

Hair fiber 6” or less in length attached to a round flat base

To create fullness or height at top or crown area of head

Ca s c a de

Long hair fiber attached to an oblong-shaped dome base

Worn to create bulk or special effects

Fa ll

Base that covers the crown, occipital and nape

Create the look of a full, thick head of hair

Switch

Long weft of one to three swatches of hair

Braid or ponytail

Chi g n o n

Long, bulky segment of looped hair sewn to a wire back

Worn at the crown of the head or at the nape

Curl S eg men t

Individual pieces of curly hair; vary in bulk

Create specific fashion statements

A switch that has 3 swatches of hair braided together often with wire in it

As a braid

B ra i d

Many openings in the base allow the client’s hair to be pulled through for blending purposes

Adds length and volume to a hair design

Integration Piece

Toupees

A hairpiece worn by men to cover bald or thinning hair spots; primarily on top

Guidelines for Measuring

1.

Place clear plastic wrap over client’s head from ear to ear; twist ends until plastic

11

molds tightly 2.

Create an outline with tape on intended area (parallel to and slightly beyond)

3.

Crisscross tape within outlined area; position one at a time; mold to head; mark shape and size with felt tip pen

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 1 .2 HAIR ADDIT ION S Hair Addition Methods

p ages 41 5 - 42 2

DI F F EREN C ES H A IR A DDIT IONS

WIG S

Loose hair fiber attached

A mesh of hair worn over

to client’s own hair

client’s own hair

Off-the-Scalp Braiding, Loose Hair/Fiber

Uses a standard three-strand braiding technique; incorporates hair or fiber along with client’s hair as it is braided; size of base is determined by desired thickness of braid

On-the-Scalp Braiding Loose Hair/Fiber

Interlocking technique; three-strand, on-the-scalp braid is used as a base to which fiber or hair is added

Track and Sew

Three-strand, on-the-scalp braid is used as support to which a hair weft is then sewn

Tracking Sewing Methods

Bonding

Tracks are used to support hair wefts as opposed to having loose fibers added Straight and/or curved needles are used to sew wefts to the braided tracks using lock stitch, overcast stitch, lock stitch throughout, double-lock stitch

DI F F EREN C ES WE F TS

ST R A ND-BY-ST RAND

Attachment of hair fiber

Bonding agent that is activated by a heating

with special adhesive

element to affix loose hair fiber to small sections of client’s own hair

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WORD F IN D G C A M H E T S O E Q O X O W I T C H D P C O N R G L A J N H C X L T Q T F T S Z S U A M O U E M A N A A B T L U A L K H L P Z L D D P A G V W T L H T N P E G I X N E E T O V F E N W K P J S A E D A B S Y B Y G S Y N T H E

S D K C A R T R P J O F F S C A L P O A K C L Z P X H U N S T H A M U W I G S T

G I P G D N M O S N

V S H O K C V S V F N M

B J G H L V O Z G D I A R

I A O Z J A G N I V O A

M H V L R I O L B N K Z S E G M U R X F M H P Q Q G Y N T U V N H N H L A T S D Z P O K I Q K V M E N I H C A M T I C T P D S G L N K H C U R L

E D C T

A X P

N G L T H D L G V

E N T G I F

F B U S M J D O S N C P

J K N Y W E F T S D P G S N A Z D N H D U P A G J F T A F C S H P D V Y K F H A I R P I E C E S D X P K N U S P S A Y N S Y H B Y D J D P Q X G N V D F S H E T I A O L Y B N

In the word find, circle the words listed below. Words are listed forward, backward and diagonally. Listings that have punctuation or two words are found without punctuation or spacing in the puzzle. How many of these words can you define? WIGS MODACRYLICS CAPLESS WIGLET CASCAD E BRAID

MSDS SYNTHETIC MACHINE MADE TOUPEE CHIGNON OFF SCALP

J AND L RING SEW BLOCKING FALL WEF TS ON SCALP

HAIRPIECES CAP BACKCOMBING SWITCH CURL SEGMENT TRACK

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. List three famous people from the past that you know wore wigs. Discuss the role wigs played in that society.

George Washington Cleopatra Marie Antoinette sorrow hate self anger

ugliness loss of feminism hurt confusion Put it up in a bun and add a contrasting color curl segment.

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List the feelings you imagine could be associated with hair loss. Circle the one that would be more difficult for you to empathize with as a stylist. Explain how you would add a hairpiece to this style to create a more dramatic effect.

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the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

Wigs have been worn by men and women since the beginning of recorded history. Wigs are made of



_____________ , _____________ , _____________ or a blend of each.

2.

E xplain how to tell the difference between human hair and modacrylic (synthetic) wig fibers if you are uncertain of what the wig is made. _____________

3.

All the colors used for wigs are standardized according to the _____________ colors on the _____________ ring.

4.

TRUE FALSE Wigs known as “machine made” consist of hair fiber sewn into long strips called wefts.

5.

 hen performing wig services, it is important that the size of the wig is not compromised. Canvas-covered wig forms, called W _____________ , are available in many sizes for use during these services.

6.

 eady-to-wear wigs may need to be altered to fit the client. An alteration made vertically to remove width in the nape area is a R _____________ , and an alteration made horizontally to shorten a wig from the front to the nape is a _____________.

7.

TRUE FALSE A synthetic wig should not be put under a dryer because heat from the dryer can distort the curl patterns.

8.

TRUE FALSE Human-hair wigs or hairpieces will need to be cleaned more often than those made with synthetic fibers.

9.

Synthetic wigs are pre-designed with predetermined _____________ patterns.

10.

 airpieces are worn for coverage in specific areas or simply to create particular effects. Name as many types of hairpieces H you can think of. _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________

MEMORY BOX

1. PAGE 398



GOT IT NOT YET



2. PAGE 398



GOT IT NOT YET



3. PAGE 398



GOT IT NOT YET



4. PAGE 399



GOT IT NOT YET



5. PAGE 404



GOT IT NOT YET



6. PAGE 405



GOT IT NOT YET



7. PAGE 406



GOT IT NOT YET



8. PAGE 406



GOT IT NOT YET



9. PAGE 410



GOT IT NOT YET



10. PAGEs 410-412



GOT IT NOT YET

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know chart I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. human hair, animal hair, synthetic fibers 2. hold over match flame; human hair has odor; synthetic hair will “ball up” 3. 70; J and L ring 4. True 5. blocks 6. dart; tuck 7. True 8. True 9. curl 10. switch; braid; curl segment; toupee; chignon; fall; cascade; wiglet

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 11, Wigs and Hair Additions. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build selfconfidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject. List the three methods in which hair and/or

KNOW

synthetic fibers may

Hand tied, machine made or semi-hand tied are the three methods in which hair and/or synthetic fibers may be attached to the wig cap or base.

be attached to the wig cap or base.

size and shape.

The guidelines for properly fitting a client for a wig are: • Brush the client’s hair as smoothly as possible • Measure the circumference of the head • Measure the distance of the hairline from the center of the forehead over the crown to the nape hairline • Measure the distance from ear to ear

Offer an example of

A switch is a hairpiece primarily worn as a braid or ponytail.

Identify the guidelines for properly fitting

Comprehend

a wig to a client’s particular head

a hairpiece that is worn

Apply

primarily as a braid or ponytail.

Analyze the use of a tuck as compared to a

Analyze

dart in customizing

Darts are alterations made vertically to remove width in the nape area of a wig, while tucks are alterations made horizontally to shorten a wig from the front to the nape.

or fitting a wig.

In your own words, describe one of the

Synthesize

An extremely low hairline position is one of the “giveaways” of a poorly fitted toupee.

11

“giveaways” of a poorly fitted toupee.

State your opinion why it is necessary to perform

Evaluate

a patch test prior to the application of bonded

In my opinion it is necessary to perform a patch test prior to the application of bonded hair additions because the client may have an allergic reaction to the ingredients in the adhesive product used.

hair additions.

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SHOW YOU KNOW... The chapter you just reviewed, “Wigs and Hair Additions,” offers information to assist you in reaching the level of performance indicated by these industry standards: 1. Consult with clients to determine their needs and preferences. 2. Provide non-surgical hair additions. 3. Market professional salon products. Using the information you have gained from this chapter on wigs and hair additions, identify the famous silhouettes shown below:

Cleopatra

Einstein

Elvis

George Washington

Shakespeare



BR AIN COND ITIO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. Which of the following items are designed to cover the entire head? a. wigs b. hairpieces c. wiglets

d. cascades

2. Human-hair wigs are generally of what origin? a. African b. South American

d. Asian or European

c. Canadian

3. How many different colors are there on the J and L color ring for wigs and hairpieces? a. 30 b. 50 c. 70 d. 90 4. Fantasy hairpieces, theatrical wigs or wigs meant to be worn by display mannequins are most often made of: a. human hair b. synthetic fibers c. animal hair d. plastic 5. What type of wig or hairpiece is considered the most expensive? a. hand tied b. machine tied c. semi-hand tied

d. flammable

6. Capless wigs are cool, comfortable and: a. very heavy b. available in several sizes

d. weigh only a few ounces

c. uncomfortable

7. To create a sturdy, natural-looking, reasonably priced product, the best toupees are: a. machine tied b. hand tied c. semi-hand tied d. made of animal hair

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8. Which of the following characteristics does NOT describe a cap wig?­­­­­ a. available in several sizes b. produced most often as handmade c. consists of an elasticized mesh-fiber base d. consists of rows of hair wefts sewn to elastic 9. How many different sizes of wig blocks are available? a. 2 b. 4

c. 6

d. 8

10. A vertical alteration to remove width in the nape area is called a: a. dart b. tuck c. vertical tuck

d. seam

11. A horizontal alteration made to remove width in the nape area of a wig is called a: a. dart b. tuck c. nip

d. vertical tuck

12. What do you need to do before stretching a cap wig? a. put it in the dryer c. put it in refrigerator

b. spray the inside of the cap with hot water d. color it to match your client’s hair

13. Depending on the frequency worn, how often should a human-hair wig or hairpiece be cleaned? a. 1 to 2 weeks b. 2 to 4 weeks c. 4 to 6 weeks d. 6 to 8 weeks 14. Coloring procedures used on human-hair wigs or hairpieces can include all of the following procedures EXCEPT: a. temporary rinses b. semi-permanent colors c. high-level (lighter) oxidative colors d. fillers or low-level (darker) oxidative colors 15. The majority of thinning near the base of a wig is done to: a. provide volume b. decrease bulk c. form wispy ends

d. prevent frizzing

16. Which hair addition is made up of hair fibers six inches or less in length attached to a round-shaped, flat base? a. wiglet b. chignon c. switch d. curl segment 17. A hairpiece consisting of long hair fiber attached to an oblong-shaped dome base is called a: a. wiglet b. fall c. cascade d. switch 18. A hairpiece worn primarily by a man to cover bald or thinning hair spots on top of the head is called a: a. braid b. toupee c. fall d. chignon 19. What type of hairpiece consists of individual pieces of curly hair worn to create a particular fashion look? a. braid b. curl segment c. chignon d. switch 20. A hairpiece with a base that covers the crown, occipital and nape areas is called a: a. switch b. chignon c. braid

d. fall

21. A fairly long, bulky segment of looped hair usually sewn to a wire base or tied into a strong cord is called a: a. switch b. curl segment c. chignon d. toupee

11

22. Which hairpiece requires a plastic impression of the client’s head? a. cascade b. toupee c. braid

d. fall

23. Loose hair fiber intended for attachment to a client’s own hair is called a: a. hair addition b. fall c. wiglet

d. cascade

24. What is used as a support structure for hair wefts in a track-and-sew hair addition? a. a 2-strand twist b. a 3-strand off-the-scalp braid c. a 3-strand on-the-scalp braid d. any off-the-scalp braids 25. Which method of applying hair additions requires a patch test? a. sewing b. braiding c. bonding

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d. stitching

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final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines following the answers, jot down topics that you still need to review.

1.

page 395



8.

page 399

15.

page 409

22.

page 413



2.

page 398



9.

page 404

16.

page 410

23.

page 415



3.

page 398

10.

page 405

17.

page 410

24.

page 418



4.

page 398

11.

page 405

18.

page 411

25.

page 420



5.

page 399

12.

page 406

19.

page 411



6.

page 399

13.

page 406

20.

page 411



7.

page 399

14.

page 408

21.

page 411

notes to myseLf

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Wigs and Hair Additions:

Lessons learned • Wigs and hairpieces have been worn throughout history for both practical and aesthetic reasons. • The fiber composition of a wig or hairpiece—human hair, animal hair, synthetic fibers or blends—affects the design services that can be performed and the products that can be used. • A positive, supportive and respectful attitude helps build trust and rapport in clients who need wig services due to hair loss. • The primary goals of most wig services are to achieve a look that resembles the client’s own hair and to maintain the wig in good condition. • Hairpieces are available in a variety of configurations, including: wiglets, cascades, falls, switches, chignons, curl segments, braids, and toupees. • Hair additions are loose fibers that are attached to the base of the client’s own hair and are used to achieve added length, density, texture and color. 258

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things to do



























things to do



























things to do 11





























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C HA PTER 1 2

CHEMICAL TEXTURIZING VALUE Being able to chemically alter texture of hair will greatly expand the services you offer your clients and the number of clients seeking your services.

MAIN IDEA Perming + Chemically Relaxing + Curl Reforming = The Three Major Options for Chemical Change

plan

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12.1 perming

History of Perming Perm Theory Perming Essentials Infection Control and Safety Client Consultation Perm Wrap Overview Rectangle Perm Wrap Bricklay Perm Wrap Spiral Bricklay Perm Wrap Oblong and Spiral Bricklay Perm Wrap Perm Problems and Solutions

12.2 chemical Relaxing

Chemical Relaxing Theory Chemical Relaxing Essentials Infection Control and Safety Client Consultation Product and Application Overview Virgin Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer Virgin Thio Relaxer Relaxer Retouch

12.3 curl reforming

Curl Reforming Theory Curl Reforming Essentials Infection Control and Safety Client Consultation Curl Reforming Service: Contour Wrap

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chemical

t e x t uriz in g

sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .1 perm ing Chemical Texturizing

p ages 42 5 - 42 7 Chemically altering the texture of hair

P E RMING

Three Classifications

RE L AXING

Changes client’s appearance Adds volume, texture, movement Chemical service Revenue generator

REFORMING

A means of controlling tightly curled hair; taking to a less curly form

Changes tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair

Chemical Texturizing Timeline History of Perming

P opul ar Techn iq u e

S pec ia liz e d Treatmen t (pH)

C ha n ge to Hair

Toda y

Alkaline waves

pH 8.0-9.5

Straight to curly

19 7 0

Acid waves

Thio derivative; glycerol monothioglycolate; pH 6.9-7.2

Straight to curly

19 38

First cold wave, no machine

Thioglycolic acid or derivatives; acid pH; neutralizer

Straight to curly

19 31

Overnight perm

Used bi-sulfides

Straight to curly

19 2 6

Croquignole method

Strong alkali chemicals

Worked on shorter hair

19 05

Spiral method; Charles Nessler, heat machine

Consisted of strong alkali solutions

Only for long hair, gave spiral curl

A n c ie n t O r i gi n

Wrapped hair on sticks, applied mud, baked in sun Sulfur from mud

Lasted a few weeks because of sulfur in mud

People to Know Charles Nessler Evans & Mcdonough Arnold Willatt

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12 Invented the permanent wave machine; spiral method; 1905 Invented the no electricity perm; 1931 Invented first Cold Wave perm; 1938

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .1 perm ing

p ages 42 6- 42 8 SP IR A L

CROQUIG NOLE

Hair is wrapped from scalp to ends

Hair is wrapped from

Two Wrapping Methods

the ends to the scalp

DI F F EREN C ES COLD WAV E

HE AT WAV E

Machineless

Used a machine

Neutralizer was used

Needs electricity

pH range of perms: Acid and Endothermic Exothermic

6.9-7.2 Range from acidic to alkaline

Perm Theory Croquignole Spiral

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Overlap method; creates an undulating wave and volume at the base Base to ends and ends to base; sometimes ends are wrapped with another perm tool

BA SE -TO-E NDS

E NDS -TO-BAS E

Begin at the base, wrap ends around

Begin at ends, rotate under twice,

tool, ends are secured with another tool

then position tool vertically

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chemical

t e x t uriz in g

sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .1 perm ing

p ages 42 9- 4 32

Perm Tools

• Come in various lengths • Come in various diameter and shapes

End Paper Techniques

STRAIGHT RODS

Produce curl waves that are uniform; hair on ends travels same distance as hair on center

CON CAVE RODS

Produce smaller, tighter curl in center; hair on ends travels farther than center hair; creates wider, more spiraling pattern

B OO KEND

DO UBLE -paper

Uses one end paper folded in half; for shorter rods or shorter hair

ALERT

CUSHION

Uses two end papers; allows maximum control of tapered ends; hair doesn’t bunch

Uses several end papers; begins with double-paper wrap then adds additional papers

When using multiple end papers, rinse and blot thoroughly

Base Size

Area between two partings for an individual perm rod

Tool Position

ON BA SE

HA LF-OF F BAS E

A one diameter base is directed 45° above

A one diameter base is held at a 90°

center; used to create more volume

angle from center of its base; rod is positioned half on and half off its base directly on bottom parting

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2

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4

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6

UNDE R DIR E CT E D

OF F BA SE

At least 1.5 diameters positioned in lower

Held at 45° below the center of the base;

half of its base; used where closeness is desired

used only where you want minimal volume

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .1 perm ing

p ages 4 32 - 4 3 4

Wrapping Patterns

Custom Wrapping Patterns

ALERT

Rectangle or 9-block

Consists primarily of rectangle shapes; basic direction is downward; rectangle pattern considered most basic pattern

Bricklay

Tools are staggered; alternating row by row; moves in any direction and avoids splits

S piral

Horizontal rows that are subdivided in staggered bricklay pattern; tools are positioned vertically in square bases

Double-halo

Center part with two rows of perm rods that follow the curve of the head

Oblong

Rods within oblongs using diagonal partings

• Partial Perms - new texture only where desired - drop crown, no texture on top • Perimeter perms - two rods along a single strand • Piggyback Always read and follow manufacturer’s directions before you begin wrapping Ergonomic Tips wrapping, stand directly behind section to be wrapped 1. When 2. Be sure the rods, end papers and spray bottle are within reach 3. Do not bend over, stoop or raise your shoulders uncomfortably while wrapping

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chemical

t e x t uriz in g

sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .1 perm ing

p ages 4 3 4 - 4 3 6

Chemical Phase

Seven Basic Steps of Chemical Phase 7. Rinsing

(DISULFIDE BOND) CARBOXYL GROUP

R GROUP

O C H

H

H

C

X C •

O

Y •

S

CARBOXYL GROUP

S

H

N

H

H

C

C

C O

H

5. Applying neutralizer

H

N

H

H

6. Remove rods

O

H

AMINO GROUP

4. Blotting

H

AMINO GROUP

CYSTEINE

CYSTEINE

(1/2 OF CYSTINE)

3. Rinsing

(1/2 OF CYSTINE)

2. Setting timer/taking test curl

Perm Solution

1. Applying perm solution

In alkaline (cold) waves, the perm solution chemically breaks (or reduces) the strong ____________ while the hair is wrapped on the perm rods. Disulfide ____________ Bonds With acid (heat) waves, ___________, _______________ and ___________ heat tension perm ________________ break the disulfide bonds. solution

Test Curl

Rinsing Blotting Neutralizing or Rebonding (Oxidation)

Good test curl - chemical bonds have been broken, strands take on shape of tool; unwind 1.5 times, look for “S” pattern After waving; removes excess solution Removes excess water before neutralizer; insufficient blotting can lead to weak curls Two Functions of Neutralizer 1. Rebonds and restores the disulfide bonds 2. The change fixes hair in a new position

1 S

1

2

S 3 4 5

S

2

S S S S S S S

3 4

Rinsing

SFCII_TSG_Ch12.indd 265

2

3

4

After hair is neutralized, rinse again Always follow manufacturer’s directions to achieve the best results from perm products

ALERT 1

12

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .1 perm ing Categories of Perm Solutions

Hair Analysis

Test for Metallic Salt

ALERT Preliminary Test Curls

Scalp Analysis

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DI F F EREN C ES A LKA LINE WAV E S

ACID WAV ES

pH approximately 8.5-9.5

pH range 6.9-7.2

No tension

Causes only minimal swelling

More swelling

Slower acting

Faster acting

Uniform tension

P orosity

E lasticity

The hair’s ability to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals

The hair’s ability to be stretched and return to its original condition

T exture

D ensity

Classified as fine, medium and coarse; essential for considering perm formula

The number of hair follicles per square inch; does not always match hair texture

1oz. 20 vol. peroxide (6%), 20 drops (28%) ammonia in glass bowl; 20 strands hair immersed for 30 minutes Do not perm until the metallic product has been cut from hair

Determine how a client’s hair will react to a perm; test on bleached, over-porous, damaged or hair colored with henna Look for abnormalities on the scalp, such as cuts, scratches, sores or abrasions

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chemical

t e x t uriz in g



R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Rectangle Perm Wrap Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Perform hair relaxation and wave formation techniques in accordance with manufacturer’s directions.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3































•• Repeat same procedures on opposite side







•• Apply barrier cream and cotton around entire hairline; apply perm solution to each rod; follow manufacturer’s directions regarding plastic cap, processing and timing







•• Take test curl; rinse hair thoroughly; towel blot each rod







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Subdivide hair into five sections; begin at front hairline of center section; use diameter of the rod to measure the base size

•• Take horizontal parting and project hair at 90° from center of base; apply end papers and use overlap technique

•• Position rod half-off base; secure each rod with picks; use same techniques and complete center section •• Adjust size of rod to size of section; complete back side section at the back; complete front side section using same techniques

•• Apply neutralizer to each rod; set timer according to manufacturer’s directions; remove rods







•• Work remaining neutralizer through ends







•• Rinse thoroughly













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

12 Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 36 %

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12



RU BRIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Bricklay Perm Wrap Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Perform hair relaxation and wave formation techniques in accordance with manufacturer’s directions.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Distribute hair straight back







•• Begin at center front hairline







•• Measure base size with diameter and length of rod







•• Wrap first rod away from face using overlap technique







•• Position rod half-off base







•• Part diagonally to include hairline in next row







•• Wrap two rods behind center of first rod using one-two bricklay method







•• Begin at the center of the next row







•• Secure rods with picks in direction hair was wrapped













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Continue same procedures and one-two bricklay method as you work form the center to either side

•• Work toward lower crown and nape using one-two bricklay method along horizontal partings







•• Complete back







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions for processing













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

268

TOTAL POINTS = 45 %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Spiral Bricklay Perm Wrap Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Perform hair relaxation and wave formation techniques in accordance with manufacturer’s directions.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Section hair for control







•• Release horizontal parting across nape







•• Use rectangular-shaped bases, one-diameter base size and spiral wrap technique







•• Work from one side of nape to other







•• Wrap first row in same direction







•• Wrap next row in opposite direction







•• Above the ear, work from one side of head to other







•• Alternate the wrapping direction of each row







•• Use horseshoe-shaped partings at the top







•• Work from one side of front hairline to other







•• Use zigzag parting at center top







•• Complete spiral wrap







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions for processing













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS =

%

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Oblong and Spiral Bricklay Perm Wrap Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Perform hair relaxation and wave formation techniques in accordance with manufacturer’s directions.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands; drape/shampoo client

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Mold two oblong shapes at top in alternating directions; wrap first shape toward face using overlap technique

•• Begin at closed end of first shape; use one-diameter, half-off base control from diagonal partings







•• Secure rods with picks







•• Wrap next shape in opposite direction; begin at closed end of shape

























•• Work from one side of hairline toward other; continue half-off base control; complete top

•• Subdivide and section remaining hair for control •• Release horizontal parting across nape; use spiral technique from rectangular-shaped bases; work from one side to other

•• Release next horizontal parting; use bricklay pattern and wrap hair in opposite direction; continue to work from side to side







•• Above ear, release horizontal parting from one side of head to other







•• Continue to use spiral technique and alternate direction of each row







•• Complete spiral wrap; follow manufacturer’s directions for processing













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

270

TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .2 chemical re l a xi n g Chemical Relaxing Theory

Types of Relaxers

CHEMICAL PHASE

Application of straightening product

P HYS ICAL P HAS E

Smoothing the hair, rinsing the product from the hair and applying neutralizer

SO DI UM HYDROXI DE High oil content to keep from irritation; base relaxer; needs protective cream; pH 11.5-14

Relaxer Strengths

p ages 4 61 - 4 6 4

AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE

OTHER RELAXERS

Also called thio relaxers; hydrogen and disulfide bonds are affected; neutralizer causes split cystine amino acids to rejoin

No lye relaxers contain a derivative of sodium hydroxide; contain calcium, potassium, guanidine, lithium sulfate; less resistant hair

Mild Used on healthy, color-treated hair, fine-textured or porous hair Regular - Used on curly to medium textured hair Super Used on tightly curled, coarse textured or resistant hair Do not apply hydroxide relaxer to hair that has been colored with permanent hair color or lightened hair; do not apply sodium hydroxide to hair that has been permed with ammonium thioglycolate or is going to be permed with thio

ALERT Hair Analysis

Round/ straight

Oval/ wavy

Elliptical/ curly

Elliptical/ tightly curled

Identifying and Changing Existing Curl Patterns

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .2 chemical re l a xi n g Stages of Reduction

Steps in Determining Curl Pattern

Chemical Phase Physical Phase



0%

25%

p ages 4 6 5 - 4 66 50%

75%

85%

100%

first

1.

Determine existing curl pattern

then

2.

Determine desired curl pattern

now

3.

Choose the formula

finally

4.

Determine processing time and amount of smoothing

Chemical Phase: applying relaxer Physical Phase: smoothing

APPLYING AND SMOOT HING

R E L A XAT ION TEST

Action begins as soon as relaxer

Comb test; allows you to determine

is applied; relaxer spread with back

if additional smoothing is required

of comb or fingers

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .2 chemical re l a xi n g Relaxation Application Methods

p ages 4 67 - 4 68 ; 473

V irgin

R etouch

Applied to virgin hair; applied to most resistant area and ¼ inch away from scalp

Product is applied only to new growth; do not overlap

Partial

C url D iffusion

Applied only to selected areas of the head

Loosens or relaxes tightly curled hair pattern by approximately 50% of its natural shape

Timing Guide

T H IO R E L A X E R S STRENGTH C OND ITIO N OF HAIR TIMING Mild Regular Super -

Fine texture Curly - medium Tightly curled - coarse

up to 15 min. up to 20 min. up to 25 min.

H Y D ROX ID E R E L A X E R S STRENGTH C OND ITIO N OF HAIR TIMING Mild Regular Super -

Color treated; fine Curly - medium texture Curly - coarse

up to 10-15 min. up to 15 min. up to 20 min.

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Product and Application Overview

ALERT 1

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Never leave a client while the hair is processing

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Virgin Thio Relaxer Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Perform hair relaxation and wave formation techniques in accordance with manufacturer’s directions.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Section hair for control; apply base (protective cream) around hairline and ears

•• Begin at back top section or where hair is most resistant; use ¼” (.6 cm) horizontal partings







•• Apply relaxer ¼” (.6 cm) to ½” (1.25 cm) away from the scalp to both sides of the strand up to porous ends; work from top to bottom of each section; complete back sections







•• Move to back of top section; complete top section







•• Move to sides and repeat same techniques; complete sides







•• Comb, then smooth each section with back of comb using smooth, light, even strokes from scalp to ends; comb and smooth all sections







•• Perform comb test; if an indentation occurs, continue smoothing







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions for processing







•• Once the hair has reached desired degree of relaxation, rinse relaxer from the hair until water runs clear







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions for neutralizing













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

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TOTAL POINTS = 36 %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Relaxer Retouch Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Perform hair relaxation and wave formation techniques in accordance with manufacturer’s directions.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Section hair for control







•• Apply protective cream to previously relaxed hair







•• Begin at top back section or most resistant area







•• Use 1/4” (.6 cm) horizontal partings







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Apply product slightly away from scalp up to previously relaxed hair to both sides of the parting







•• Complete back sections







•• Complete remaining sections using the same procedures







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions for processing







•• Smooth each section with back of comb







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions for processing and perform comb test

























•• Rinse the hair until water runs clear after you have reached the desired degree of relaxation

•• Shampoo hair with a neutralizing shampoo

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS =

%

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 2 .3 curl re formi n g Curl Reforming

p ages 48 1 - 4 8 6

Chemical service that changes tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair texture

Curl Reforming Theory Three Steps to Curl Reformation

Infection Control and Safety Special Safety Considerations

ALERT

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first

1.

Reduction - reduces existing curl pattern

then

2.

Reforming - forms a new curl pattern around tools

now

3.

Rebonding - bonds (neutralizes) the chemical bonds to create the new curl

Wear protective gloves Examine scalp, if irregularities, do not perform services Avoid brushing the hair before service Apply protective base If chemicals accidentally get on the skin, flush with cool water Do not perform a curl reformation on hair that has been relaxed with a sodium hydroxide or no lye relaxer

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Curl Reforming Service: Contour Wrap Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Perform hair relaxation and wave formation techniques in accordance with manufacturer’s directions.

Preparation •• Assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













procedures as for a virgin relaxer application







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions for processing







•• Rinse and towel blot hair







•• Apply and distribute booster to each section as you wrap the hair







•• Wrap first section; complete first section







•• Wrap and complete remaining sections using the same procedures







•• Follow manufacturer’s directions regarding processing and plastic cap







•• Rinse booster and towel blot hair; apply neutralizer; follow manufacturer’s directions for processing







•• Rinse with low water pressure; remove rods







•• Apply moisturizing conditioner







•• Rinse conditioner







•• Style hair













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Apply protective base cream to hairline and ears •• Apply and smooth hair with curl rearranger, following the same

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

12

TOTAL POINTS = 45 %

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. Locate three magazine photos, one with small, one medium and one large curl sizes. Compare with a partner the form, length, color and texture of the curls. Compare directions from two different perm manufacturers and list similar and different instructions.

“Turn up the Volume”... Schedule a Texture Series Today

Create a promotion spotlighting perms as a service in the salon.

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

 hemical texturizing is simply the process of using physical and chemical actions to permanently change the C hair. What are the three major classifications of chemical texturizing? ______________________________ ______________________________ _____________________________

2.

______________________________ involves taking straight hair and making it curly or wavy.

3.

 lkaline waves, also called __________________ ____________________ are currently formulated with A ____________________________ or its derivatives and ammonia, which creates a compound called ____________________ ____________________.

4.

Acid waves contain ____________________ ____________________ and have a pH of _____ to _____.

5.

 TRUE FALSE The chemical phase of perming involves applying the perm solution, rinsing it from the hair, then applying the neutralizer and rinsing it from the hair.

6.

 he most common ingredient found in products that completely relax the hair is _______________ _______________, and T the most common ingredient found in products that reduce the curl pattern is _______________ _______________.

7.

 nce the hair has been relaxed and the relaxing solution has been completely rinsed from the hair, an _______________ O agent must be applied to reharden (lock) the hair into its new, straight shape.

8.

 TRUE FALSE Never apply a thio relaxer over hair that has been relaxed with a sodium hydroxide relaxer or vice versa, since these two chemicals are not compatible and severe damage or breakage can occur.

9.

_______________ _______________ is a chemical service designed to change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair.

10.

In a curl reforming procedure, the natural curl is reduced by applying a product known as a rearranger. _______________ _______________ is the main ingredient found in rearrangers.

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MEMORY BOX 1. PAGE 425



GOT IT NOT YET

2. PAGE 425



GOT IT NOT YET

3. PAGE 427



GOT IT NOT YET

4. PAGE 427



GOT IT NOT YET

5. PAGE 427



GOT IT NOT YET

6. PAGE 462



GOT IT NOT YET

7. PAGE 468



GOT IT NOT YET

8. PAGE 473



GOT IT NOT YET

9. PAGE 481



GOT IT NOT YET

10. PAGE 482



GOT IT NOT YET

t e x t uriz in g

know chart I KNOW: 1. perming; relaxing; curl reforming 2. Perming 3. cold waves; thioglycolic acid; ammonium thioglycolate 4. glycerol monothioglycolate; 6.9-7.2 5. True 6. sodium hydroxide; ammonium thioglycolate 7. Oxidizing

I NEED TO STUDY: 8. True 9. Curl reforming 10. ammonium thioglycolate

SHOW YOU KNOW... Identify what type of tool and wrapping pattern was used for the following images.

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a class act Now that you have completed your work in Chemical Texturizing, it’s time to demonstrate your creative talents. Each member of the class will plan, sketch, demonstrate and explain a wrap pattern. You may create a new directional pattern or use one from the chapter. Remember: Before starting the wrap on a mannequin you must sketch the wrapping pattern, list key features to be explained and name your creation!

SKETCH

KEY FE ATURES

DESIGN NAME: All designs will be judged for:

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Plan /Sketch 1

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points: _____________



points: _____________



points: _____________

10

Demonstration

Explanation



10

TOTAL POINTS: _____________

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 12, Chemical Texturizing. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build selfconfidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

What are the two basic techniques for

KNOW

The two basic techniques for wrapping hair around a perm tool are the overlap (croquignole) and the spiral.

wrapping hair around a perm tool?

the perming process.

The purpose of an end paper is to control the hair ends and keep the hair smoothly wrapped around the perm tool. The end papers eliminate crimps or “fishhooks” on the ends of the hair.

Fill in the basic steps

The basic steps involved in the chemical phase of perming are:

Report the purpose

Comprehend

of an end paper in

involved in the

Apply

chemical process of perming.

Compare the pH of an

1. Applying perm solution 2. Setting timer/taking test curl 3. Rinsing

4. 5. 6. 7.

Blotting Applying neutralizer Removing Rods Rinsing

The pH of an alkaline perm is 8.0 to 9.5 and the pH of an acid perm is 6.9 to 7.2.

Analyze

alkaline perm to the pH

Synthesize

Write about the importance of analyzing the porosity, elasticity, texture and density of the client’s hair prior to performing a perm service.

It is important to analyze the porosity, elasticity, texture and density of the client’s hair to help you select the appropriate perm product, sectioning and wrapping method and processing time.

Justify the importance of analyzing the texture of the client’s hair in several areas of the head prior to a chemical relaxer service.

It is important to test in several areas of the head because it is common for one head to have several different textures, such as very fine hair in the nape area and coarse hair in the crown.

of an acid perm.

Evaluate 1

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BR AIN CONDI TI O N ER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. The first machine capable of producing permanent curl was invented in: a. 1865 b. 1885 c. 1905

d. 1925

2. The inventor of the first permanent wave machine was: a. Eli Whitney b. Thomas Edison c. Charles Nessler

d. Benjamin Franklin

3. Heat waves that are self-timed and self-heated are called: a. acidic b. endothermic c. cold

d. exothermic

4. Acid waves that require the application of heat are: a. highly alkaline b. endothermic

d. exothermic

c. highly acidic

5. What type of wave uses thioglycolic acid or its derivatives with ammonia and processes the hair without heat? a. endothermic b. exothermic c. acid d. cold 6. The chemical phase of perms involves all of the following procedures EXCEPT: a. applying neutralizer b. applying perm solution c. wrapping hair around the perm tool d. rinsing the perm solution from the hair 7. The overlap method of wrapping hair around a perm tool is also called: a. base to ends spiral b. ends to base spiral c. croquignole

d. spring

8. To achieve the desired curl formation, hair should wrap around the rod at least how many times? a. once b. 1 ½ times c. 2 ½ times d. 5 times 9. What type of rods produce a large curl pattern on either side and a smaller curl in the center? a. short b. long c. concave d. small diameter 10. What type of rods produce small firm curls? a. small diameter rods c. short rods with large diameters

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b. large diameter rods d. long rods with large diameters

11. The most common end paper technique used to avoid bunching at the ends is the: a. bookend b. double-paper c. cushion

d. spiral

12. The base is defined as the area between two: a. sections b. lengths

c. tools

d. partings

13. The most common base control for perming is a/an: a. half-off base b. on-base

c. off base

d. underdirected

14. In perming a one-base size is: a. equal to the diameter of perm rod c. 3 times the size of perm rod

b. 2 times the size of perm rod d. 4 times the size of perm rod

15. A larger base size will have which of the following effects on the curl? a. lengthen b. tighten c. reduce strength

d. increase strength

16. To achieve maximum volume, which tool position should be used? a. on-base b. half-off base c. off-base

d. underdirected

17. Which tool position is used in perimeter areas where closeness is desired? a. on-base b. half-off base c. off-base

d. underdirected

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18. The tool position used when only a minimum degree of volume is desired is the: a. on-base b. half-off base c. off-base

d. underdirected

19. What element do most acid waves use along with tension and waving lotion to process hair? a. heat b. cold c. alkalinity d. drying 20. What structure must be permanently broken to change the hair from a straight to a curly state? a. disulfide bonds b. carbon c. eumelanin d. melanocytes 21. What procedure removes the excess waving lotion? a. shampooing b. rinsing

c. reducing

d. processing

22. Alkaline waves carry a pH of: a. 4.5 to 5.5 b. 6.0 to 7.5

c. 8.0 to 9.5

d. 10 to 14

23. Neutralizing is also known as: a. rebonding c. relaxing

b. processing d. breaking the disulfide bonds

24. What procedure reduces the swelling of the hair and hardens the bonds into the new size and shape during a perm process? a. rinsing with cold water b. applying a neutralizer c. applying a processing agent d. rinsing with hot water 25. Hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate are commonly used in: a. alkaline perm solutions b. acid perm solutions c. conditioners d. neutralizers 26. Which waving solution is not recommended for porous or damaged hair? a. acid b. heat c. endothermic

d. alkaline

27. Which of the following chemicals is NOT one of the main ingredients found in most neutralizers? a. potassium b. sodium bromate c. sodium perborate d. hydrogen peroxide 28. Low pH alkaline waves have a pH of: a. 7 b. 8

c. 9.5

d. 9

29. Acid waves have a pH of: a. 4.9-5.2 b. 5.9-6.2

c. 6.9-7.2

d. 7.9-8.2

30. Hair must be wrapped without tension when using: a. endothermic acid waves c. acid waves without heat

b. exothermic acid waves d. alkaline waves

31. Wrapping with even tension when using an acid wave produces which of the following effects? a. boosts penetration of waving solution b. decreases penetration of waving solution c. increases processing time d. creates uneven wave pattern 32. It is essential to completely rinse the perm solution before applying the: a. conditioner b. shampoo c. neutralizer

12

d. relaxer

33. Leaving the neutralizer on longer than recommended can: a. cause damage b. create a firmer curl pattern c. create an appearance with more luster d. add volume 34. Which of the following waving solutions has the shortest processing time? a. alkaline b. exothermic acid c. endothermic acid wave

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35. Which of the following statements is true about acid perms? a. acid perms create soft, natural curls b. acid perms have a faster processing time c. acid waves are better for use on resistant hair d. acid waves do not require the addition of heat 36. Which term refers to the hair’s ability to absorb moisture, liquids and chemicals? a. elasticity b. porosity c. texture

d. density

37. The hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original shape is called: a. elasticity b. porosity c. texture

d. density

38. Thio-free perms use what as a reducing agent? a. thioglycolic acid b. glycerylmonothioglycolate c. cystemine hydrochloride

d. peroxide

39. Which of the following items is NOT true about acid perms? a. better for fragile hair b. slower processing time c. create soft, natural curls d. better for use on resistant hair 40. Which of the following descriptions does NOT identify the meaning of porosity? a. the hair’s ability to stretch b. the hair’s ability to retain liquids c. the hair’s ability to absorb liquids d. the hair’s ability to absorb perming solution 41. Which of the following statements about permed hair is true? a. do not perm hair that has ever been colored b. do not perm hair that is limp c. do not perm hair if there are scalp abrasions present d. do not perm short hair near hairline 42. Which of the following statements about chemically treated hair is NOT true? a. hair that has been colored cannot be permed b. avoid perming damaged hair that shows breakage c. do not perm hair if there are scalp abrasions present d. never perm hair that has been treated with sodium hydroxide 43. Proper draping for chemical services accomplish all of the following EXCEPT: a. preventing burns b. preventing skin irritation c. protecting the client’s clothing d. placing cape between client and chair back 44. What is the purpose of performing a 1:20 test? a. to indicate the processing time needed c. to indicate allergies to the chemicals being used

b. to determine if metallic salts are present d. to determine the porosity of the hair

45. Which of the following statements is TRUE about a preliminary test curl? a. avoid shampooing prior to testing b. helps determine how a client’s hair will react to a perm c. barrier cream is not necessary d. avoid testing hair that has been bleached

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46. Which perm wrap is considered the most basic perm wrap pattern? a. rectangle b. bricklay c. spiral bricklay

d. oblong bricklay

47. Rods too large for the desired curl can cause: a. frizziness b. breakage

c. dryness

d. a limp curl

48. Too much hair on a hair rod can cause: a. an uneven curl pattern b. dryness

c. breakage

d. frizziness

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49. The most common ingredient found in products that completely straighten the hair is: a. sodium hydroxide b. thioglycolate c. potassium d. bisulfate 50. Which relaxer is classified as a lye product? a. sodium hydroxide b. calcium hydroxide

c. potassium hydroxide

d. lithium hydroxide

51. Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH of: a. 6.5 to 8 b. 8.5 to 10

c. 11.5 to 14

d. 5 to 6.5

52. What product should NOT be applied to hair that has been previously permed with ammonium thioglycolate? a. conditioner b. neutralizer c. sodium hydroxide d. metallic salt 53. A pull test is performed to check for which of the following conditions? a. porosity b. melanin c. elasticity

d. brittleness

54. Sodium hydroxide relaxers are generally used on what type of hair? a. tightly curled b. non-resistant c. wavy

d. straight

55. A technique used to loosen or relax tightly curled hair patterns by approximately 50% of their natural shape is called: a. virgin relaxer b. relaxer retouch c. partial relaxer d. curl diffusion or chemical blow-out 56. What protects the scalp and hairline from caustic chemicals? a. protective base cream b. sealer c. conditioner

d. hand lotion

57. Which of the following steps is NOT performed when offering a virgin sodium hydroxide relaxer service? a. strand test b. periodic comb tests c. pre-shampoo the client’s hair d. follow the service with a neutralizing shampoo 58. Virgin thio relaxers may be applied after all of the following procedures EXCEPT: a. a light shampoo b. a vigorous shampoo c. an analysis of hair and scalp d. a strand test and an elasticity test 59. What is the name of the chemical service designed to change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair? a. perming b. relaxer retouch c. curl reforming (soft curls) d. stripping 60. Another term for a soft curl procedure is: a. alkaline wave perm b. double-process perm

c. acid perm

d. thio-free perm

61. All of the following terms describe changing tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair EXCEPT: a. curl reforming b. relaxer retouch c. reformation curls d. double-process perm 62. Ammonium thioglycolate is the main ingredient in: a. curl rearranger b. conditioners

c. shampoos

d. styling gels

63. When performing a curl reforming procedure, the rod diameter should be at least how many times larger than the diameter of the natural curl pattern? a. 2 b. 3 c. 4 d. 5 64. The main ingredient found in a booster is: a. sodium bromate c. a mild form of ammonium thioglycolate

12 b. a mild form of potassium chloride d. cystemine hydrochloride

65. Which of the following actions is NOT a step involved in curl reforming? a. reduction b. restraightening c. reforming

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d. rebonding­­

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final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines following the answers, jot down topics that you still need to review.

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chemical

t e x t uriz in g

final review continued On the lines below, jot down topics that you still need to review.

notes to myself

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Chemical Texturizing:

Lessons learned • C  hemical texture services offered in the salon include: perming, to transform hair from straight to curly; and relaxing, to transform hair from curly to straight. • Perm results depend mainly on the distribution and sectioning, wrapping technique, base control, tool size and perm pattern used. • Relaxer results depend mainly on the chemical relaxer product and smoothing technique used. • A curl reformation service creates a new, looser curl pattern by first relaxing and then perming the hair.

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things to do



























things to do



























things to do

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C HA PTER 1 3

Hair Coloring VALUE Being able to change your client’s existing hair color will allow you to maintain the best possible personal image for your client.

MAIN IDEA Color + Identifying and Knowing How to Change the Client’s Hair Color = Financial and Professional Reward

plan

13.1 COLOR THEORY

What is Color? The Law of Color

13.2 IDENTIFYING EXISTING HAIR COLOR

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Melanin Gray Hair Identifying Natural Level and Tone Identifying Artificial Level, Tone and Intensity Additional Considerations

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13.3 CHANGING EXISTING HAIR COLOR

Hair Color Chemistry Hair Color Essentials Hair Color Techniques Infection Control and Safety Client Consultation Product and Application Overview Temporary Color Semi-Permanent Color Oxidative Color: Darker Result Oxidative Color: Lighter Result Surface Painting Partial Highlights: Slicing Full Highlights: Weaving Cap Highlighting Double-Process Blond Tint Back Hair Color Removal Techniques Hair Color Problems and Solutions

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 3.1 COLOR T HEORY The Law of Color Y

R

p ages 494 - 4 9 6

All colors are created from mixing three primary “pure” colors: red, yellow and blue, in varying proportions

B

PRI MARY

S ECO NDARY

TERTIARY

Yellow

Orange

Yellow-Orange

Red

Green

Yellow-Green

Blue

Violet

Red-Orange Red-Violet Blue-Green Blue-Violet

Hair & Skin Color

Complementary Colors Neutralizing Effect

M COLORS WAR

COOL COLORS

Color Wheel

Tool used in haircoloring in which the twelve colors are positioned in a circle. Allows any mixed color to be described in relation to the primary colors.

WA R M

COOL

Sun, fire; the yellow, orange and

Trees, water, ice; the violet, blue and

red half of the color wheel

green half of the color wheel

Colors found opposite each other on the color wheel.

Colors cancel each other out when mixed together. Complementary colors are used to neutralize unwanted tones.

Color in these squares to achieve complementary colors neutralizing one another

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 3.1 COLOR T HEORY Levels of Hair Color

p ages 4 97- 4 98

1 - 10; 1 the darkest, 10 the lightest

10

LIGHT

9 8

Degree of Lightness or Darkness

A level 5 red would be considered lighter than a level 3 red.

7 6 5

Intensity of Hair Color

4

Describes the brightness or vividness of a color or the strength of the tone.

3 2 1

13.2 IDENTIFYING EXISTING HAIR COLOR

DARK

p ages 4 97- 4 98

Trichology Melanocytes – Pigment-producing cells Quick Review Melanosomes – Protein packets that surround melanin Melanin – Pigment you are born with

E UME L A NIN

P HE OME L ANIN

Black pigment

Red pigment

W HICH HAIR COLOR?

BLACK

ense amount of Eumelanin produces: D Small amount of Eumelanin produces: Predominant amount of Pheomelanin produces: Inactive Melanocytes produce:

RED

BLACK

RED

BLACK

RED

BROWN

1

BROWN

2

3 BROWN

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4

BLONDE

5

_______________ Very dark hair _______________ Blond hair _______________ Red hair _______________ Gray hair

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BLONDE

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sm a r tN OT ES 13.2 IDENTIFYING EXISTING HAIR COLOR

p ages 498 - 5 0 3

Gray Hair 50%

75%

More pigmented hair; less

Equal amounts of pigmented

More nonpigmented hair;

nonpigmented hair

and nonpigmented hair

less pigmented hair; hair

25%

appears lighter

25% - 30% Rule

Apply a color one level lighter than desired shade.

Identifying Natural Level and Tone Major Fields of Color

Identifying Artificial Level, Tone and Intensity

Additional Considerations

By level and name of color; levels of hair color identities on a scale of 1-10 fall into one of three major fields of hair color: light, medium and dark



Yellow (Y) Red (R) Blue (B) Gold (G) Violet (V) Ash (A) Neutral (N)

I NTE N S ITY

POROS iTY

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MEDIUM

DARK

Ash Blond (blue-violet) Chestnut Brown (green) Golden Brown (gold) Copper Gold (orange) Auburn (red-orange) Burgundy (red-violet) Mahogany (red-violet) Plum Brown (red-violet) Black Velvet (violet) Blue Black (blue)

Tones /BAS E COLORS

TE XTURE

292

10 Lightest Blond 9 Very Light Blond 8 Light Blond 7 Medium Blond 6 Dark Blond 5 Lightest Brown 4 Light Brown 3 Medium Brown 2 Dark Brown 1 Black

LIGHT

Green (GR) Red-Orange (RO) Red-Violet (RV) Blue-Violet (BV) Platinum (violet) Golden Blond (yellow or gold)

Refers to mild - strong Mild red-orange compared to strong red-orange Refers to the degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair fiber. Three types: fine, medium and coarse. Refers to the amount of moisture the hair is able to absorb. Three types: resistant, average and extreme.

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sm a r tN OT ES 13.3 CHANGING EXISTING HAIR COLOR Formula

p ages 5 0 4 - 5 07

Natural Melanin + Artificial Pigment = Final Color Result

NONOXIDATIVE COLORS

Hair Color Chemistry

Function: Create a physical change to the hair by depositing colors that shampoo out.

General Categories of Hair Color Products



TEMPORARY

SEMI-PERMANENT

Use: Create a temporary color change

Use: Deposit color and cannot lighten

- non-reactive, direct dyes

hair; direct-dye colors; no mixing

TYPES Weekly Rinses: Applied at shampoo bowl; add tone; neutralize

Color-Enhancing Shampoos/Conditioners: Maintain existing color; add tone; eliminate

Color Mousses/Gels: Variety

unwanted tones from hair

of colors; brighten, tone; create dramatic effects

Glosses: Create subtle to dramatic color changes; add tone; refresh faded

Color Crayons/Mascaras: Variety

color; neutralize

of colors; blend regrowth; create colorful designs

Color Enhancers: Create subtle to



dramatic color changes; add tone;

Pomades: Variety of colors; add

refresh faded color; neutralize

shine; tone; create special effects Spray-On Colors: Aerosol can – Do NOT use near open fire; add color for special effects

A LERT Remember: Perform patch test and strand test!

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sm a r tN OT ES 13.3 CHANGING EXISTING HAIR COLOR

p ages 5 0 8 - 5 1 2

OX I DAT I V E COLOR

Semi-Permanent

• Also known as

long-lasting, demi-permanent

• Use a low volume developer

• Small color

molecules enter cortex, some join together

• Deposit color; last 4-6 weeks

Peroxide

• Can lift natural

pigment and deposit artificial pigment in single process

• Small color

molecules enter cortex, some join together

• Can add tone,

lighten or lighten and deposit

Most commonly used

30 Volume

Used to achieve lighter colors

40 Volume

Used with high lift tints

Concentrates, Intensifiers and Drabbers

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• Mix with Hydrogen

20 Volume

Forms of Permanent Colors

294

Permanent

Toners

Fillers

• Light pastel colors

• Provide even base

used to tone prelightened hair

color by filling in porous, damaged or abused areas

• Used to deposit

• Equalize porosity

color, neutralize unwanted pigment

• Replace missing

• Mixed with up

pigment

to 20 volume developer

• 2 types: conditioning and color

• Selected in relation

• Give uniform color

to law of color

in a tint back

LIQ UI D

CRE AM

GEL

Thinner; applied with bottle;

Mixed with cream developers;

Consistency between liquid

contain fewer conditioning

bowl/brush application; have

and cream; conditioning is less

agents, more ammonia

conditioning agents

than cream, more than liquid

Names given to products designed to increase the vibrancy of a color formula or to neutralize tones; mixed with color or applied to prelightened hair for fashion statement.

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sm a r tN OT ES 13.3 CHANGING EXISTING HAIR COLOR Lighteners

Degrees of Decolorization

p ages 5 1 2 - 5 1 7

Also known as bleach, used to remove or diffuse melanin. Create final color or create new pigment on which to build the final color. Approximately 10 levels; main degrees: red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, yellow, pale yellow and palest yellow

ON-T HE -SCA LP

OF F-T HE -SCALP

• Can be applied directly on the scalp

• Not applied on the scalp

• Comes in 2 forms: oil and cream

• Strong lightening product; can cause blisters, burns

• Used for painting techniques • Powder form Developers Hydrogen Peroxide pH 2.5-4.5 Volume Formula

Oxidizing agent used with demi-permanent, permanent, lighteners and toners. The most commonly used developer, needs to be mixed with ammonia or other alkaline compound to become active.

3% = 10 ____________ Volume 6% = 20 ____________ Volume

9% = ____________ 30 Volume 12% = 40 ____________ Volume

A LERT Increasing the strength of hydrogen peroxide in a formula beyond the manufacturer’s recommendations may cause damage to the hair and chemical burns to the skin and scalp.

Vegetable Dyes

Henna - Produces reddish highlights Chamomile - Produces golden highlights

Metallic Compound

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Progressive dyes – not a professional product Combination of vegetable and metallic dyes

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sm a r tN OT ES 13.3 CHANGING EXISTING HAIR COLOR Hair Color Techniques

p ages 52 0 - 52 5

Base to Ends

Midstrand to Ends



Then Base (Lighter)

Base (Retouch)

Draw each technique in the boxes above.

Special Effects Coloring Techniques Freeform Painting Weaving and Slicing (Fine, Medium and Thick) Cap Method

ALERT

Involve positioning lights/darks on the surface or to selected strands Method Brush used on the ___________ surface

Results Highlighted/lowlighted

Tail comb weaves out ___________ alternating Adds depth and ___________ dimension pattern or parts off section of hair Selected strands are pulled through perforated holes in a rubber cap with crochet hook, then ___________ lightened or ___________ darkened

Highlights

Always follow manufacturer’s directions and read material safety data sheets (MSDS).

Predisposition (Skin Patch) Test

Preliminary Strand Test

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Required when using ______________________ aniline derivative tints 24-28 hours prior to color service. Must use intended formula; test for ___________ reaction; allergic negative - formula may be used; positive - redness, blisters, have client seek ___________ assistance. medical Color test, ___________ hours before service - determine formula to be used; 24-48 ___________ processing time; reaction of hair

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sm a r tN OT ES 13.3 CHANGING EXISTING HAIR COLOR

p a ge 52 9

Product and Application Overview CATEGORY

LASTING POWER

FUNCTION

APPLICATION METHOD

Nonoxidative (not mixed with developer) Temporary

From shampoo to shampoo

Deposits color

Base to ends at shampoo bowl; combed on

Semi-Permanent

4-6 shampoos

Deposits color; adds shine; cannot lighten hair

Base to ends (heat may be required)

Fades in 6-8 weeks

Deposits color, but usually does not lighten hair

Base to ends (darker result)

OXIDATIVE ( mixed with developer) Demi-Permanent

Regrowth 6-8 weeks Permanent

Permanent (also known as single process tints)

Base only Lightens and deposits color

Regrowth 3-6 weeks

Base to ends (darker result) Midstrand to porous ends, then base and ends (lighter result) Base only

LIGHTENERS (mixed with developer)

Permanent

On-the-Scalp

Regrowth 3-6 weeks

Lightens existing hair color (safe enough to be used on scalp)

Midstrand to porous ends then, base and ends (lighter result) Base only

Permanent

Off-the-Scalp

Regrowth 12-16 weeks

Lightens existing hair color (used off the scalp for special effects, i.e., highlighting, painting, etc.)

Slightly away from the scalp to the ends (lighter result) Base only

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thinking map Now that you have filled in your SmartNotes for “Hair Coloring,” create a Thinking Map to help yourself make sense of how your SmartNotes fit together. Use some or all of the words in the Jump Start Box as well as your own words and pictures to make a visual that will help you connect the important ideas in this chapter to each other. Be creative!

HAIR COLORING

jump start box Lighteners Intensity Concentrates Compound Melanocytes Intensifiers Metallic Salts Eumelanin Drabbers

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Base to Ends Level 20 Volume Midstrand Tone 30 Volume Retouch Nonoxidative 40 Volume

Weaving Temporary On-the-Scalp Slicing Semi-Permanent Off-the-Scalp Cap Oxidative Decolorization

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Predisposition Test Toners Hydrogen Peroxide Developer Fillers

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Good porosity Level 8 existing color Good elasticity Active lifestyle Medium density Casual clothing preference Oval face shape Tall and lanky body shape Wants blond highlights

Role play a color consultation with a partner using the information to the left. Find photo examples of clothing from a magazine that show the use of complementary colors.

Blondes DO Have More Fun...Make an appointment for your summer highlight today!

Create a salon promotion featuring hair color that could be offered during the month of May.

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

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Primary colors are colors that cannot be created by mixing together any other colors. The three primary colors are _______________, ______________ and _______________. A color wheel is a tool that has twelve colors positioned in a circle. Colors found opposite each other on the color wheel are called _______________ colors and when mixed in equal proportions will produce a neutral color such as dark gray or brown. TRUE FALSE When changing the color of hair, the colorist should keep in mind that the final hair color is the combination of the existing pigment and the artificial pigment applied to the hair. _______________ hair colors are mixed with hydrogen peroxide and are capable of both lifting natural pigment and depositing artificial pigment in one process. As a general rule, a permanent color with a 20 volume level of hydrogen peroxide will lift the hair _____ color levels, and a 30 volume level of hydrogen peroxide will lift the hair _____ color levels. Compound dyes are a mixture of _______________ and _______________ dyes. TRUE FALSE The use of metallic and compound dyes is discouraged because they are unreliable and sometimes unsafe. TRUE FALSE According to the U.S. Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, all permanent, aniline derivative tints require a skin patch test 24-48 hours prior to the hair color service. How long are each of the following color services expected to last? temporary colors ________________ semi-permanent colors ________________ demi-permanent colors ______________ permanent colors _______________ lighteners ______________ The two-step coloring technique that involves lightening the hair first and then recolorizing the hair to the desired tone is called _______________.

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MEMORY BOX 1. PAGE 494



GOT IT NOT YET

2. PAGE 496



GOT IT NOT YET

3. PAGE 504



GOT IT NOT YET

4. PAGE 509



GOT IT NOT YET

5. PAGE 510



GOT IT NOT YET

6. PAGE 516



GOT IT NOT YET

7. PAGE 516, 517



GOT IT NOT YET

8. PAGE 523



GOT IT NOT YET

9. PAGE 529



GOT IT NOT YET

10. PAGE 550



GOT IT NOT YET

know chart I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

yellow, red, blue complementary TRUE permanent 2, 3 vegetable, metallic TRUE TRUE shampoo to shampoo, 4-6 shampoos, fades in 6-8 weeks, permanent, permanent 10. double-process blond

SHOW YOU KNOW... Using the sketches shown below and colored pencils, indicate the color patterns you would use to best suit the length and style of the hair shown.

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 13, Hair Coloring. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

Name the three primary

KNOW

The three primary colors are yellow, red and blue. The three secondary colors are orange, green and violet.

colors and the three secondary colors.

Describe how secondary

Comprehend

and tertiary colors are

Apply

Create a color wheel.

produced.

Compare an

Analyze

Secondary colors are produced by combining two primary colors in equal proportions and tertiary colors are produced by mixing primary colors with their neighboring secondary colors in equal proportions.

An oxidative color is mixed with a developer and is able to lighten while a nonoxidative color cannot lighten.

oxidative color to a nonoxidative color.

Design a poster

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Synthesize

displaying the degrees

Evaluate

Support the importance of performing a predisposition (skin patch) test before using any permanent, aniline derivative tint.

2

3

4

of decolorization.

5

6

7

According to the U.S. Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, all permanent, aniline derivative tints require a predisposition (skin patch) test 24 to 48 hours prior to the hair color service. This test helps determine if the client is sensitive or allergic to certain chemicals in the hair color product.

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Semi-Permanent Color Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide hair-related services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Perform predisposition test; assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Part hair into four sections; apply barrier cream; pour color into bottle







•• Outline first back section; take 1” (2.5 cm) horizontal partings in back







•• Apply color from base to midstrand, omitting porous ends







•• Complete first back section; complete other back section







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Outline front sections, then apply color to these sections from diagonal partings







•• Apply color to remaining midstrand and ends; work color through for even saturation







•• Apply cotton around hairline; place plastic cap over hair







•• Position client under pre-heated dryer if applicable; set timer







•• Perform strand test if desired







•• Rinse, shampoo and remove any color stains







•• Condition and finish hair as desired













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

302

TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Oxidative Color: Darker Result Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide color services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Perform predisposition test; assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Subdivide hair into four sections; apply barrier cream







•• Measure and mix color formula; outline first front section







•• Apply color from base to ends using ¼” (.6 cm) diagonal back partings on front side







•• Work from top of section to bottom







•• Complete this section, then outline hairline; bring hair down







•• Repeat color application on other front side







•• Position protective strips along hairline, if desired







•• Move to back and repeat same procedures from horizontal partings







•• Crosscheck







•• Set timer







•• Perform strand test







•• Rinse, shampoo and remove any color stains







•• Condition and finish hair













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 45 %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Surface Painting Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide color services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Perform predisposition test; assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Mix the formula







•• Comb the hair as it will be worn







•• Dip brush in bowl







•• Apply lightener vertically, slightly away from base to ends







•• Work from front hairline to center back







•• Repeat application on opposite side







•• Follow processing directions







•• Rinse, shampoo, condition and finish hair













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

304

TOTAL POINTS = 30 %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Partial Highlights: Slicing Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide color services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Perform predisposition test; assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Create a triangle section at fringe area; mix formula •• Begin at large end of triangle; make a horizontal parting and part off

a fine slice from top of parting; position thermal strip underneath slice







•• Apply lightener in a zigzag pattern away from scalp out to ends; fold thermal strip







•• Release a section to remain natural







•• Continue to alternate between highlighted and natural sections







•• Work toward narrow end of triangle







•• Clip highlighted section upward







•• Set timer and follow processing directions







•• Strand test







•• Remove thermal strips







•• Rinse, shampoo, condition and finish hair













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard

non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Full Highlights: Weaving Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Consult with and provide color services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Perform predisposition test; assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Section hair into four basic sections; mix formula •• Begin at nape; take a horizontal parting and weave out selected strands







•• Position prefolded edge of foil underneath woven strands; apply lightener from edge of foil to ends







•• Fold foil upward twice; fold sides of foil inward







•• Create a bricklay pattern; alternate between natural and highlighted sections; complete back section







•• Continue weaving from diagonal-back partings, using a bricklay pattern at front side







•• Complete other side; set timer; perform strand test







•• Remove foils; rinse, shampoo and dry hair







•• Mix toner; apply toner using a base-to-ends technique from diagonal-back and horizontal partings







•• Set timer; perform strand test







•• Rinse, shampoo and finish hair













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

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TOTAL POINTS = 39 %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Double-Process Blond Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide hair-related services in accordance with a client’s needs or expectations in a safe environment.

Preparation •• Perform predisposition test; assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; wash/sanitize hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3































To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Section hair into four sections; apply barrier cream; measure and mix formula

•• Release /8” (.3 cm) horizontal partings in the crown; apply 1

lightener ½” (1.25 cm) away from scalp through ends on both sides of the strand; place cotton at base

•• Work downward to complete each section; lift and bring each parting down for air oxidation; move to sides and use same procedures; set timer; perform strand test •• Remove cotton and apply newly mixed lightener to base only, beginning at top of back

•• Outline each section; bring down each section; perform strand test periodically







•• Rinse hair with cool water, shampoo and towel dry; re-examine scalp







•• Mix and apply toner from diagonal back and horizontal partings







•• Set timer; perform strand test







•• Rinse, shampoo, condition and finish the hair













Completion •• Offer a rebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange work station in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes Percentage = student score / highest possible score

TOTAL POINTS = 33 %

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BR AIN COND ITIO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. All of the following statements are true about color, EXCEPT: a. it is a phenomenon of light b. it is a group of electromagnetic waves c. it can be seen if wavelengths are reflected off an object d. it does not depend on presence of light 2. What are the three primary colors?  a. red, blue and yellow b. green, black and purple

c. green, orange and purple d. red, white and blue

3. What colors are produced by mixing two primary colors in varying proportions?  a. secondary b. tertiary c. infrared

d. ultraviolet

4. A varying mixture of red and yellow creates what color?  a. blue b. green c. violet

d. orange

5. Varying proportions of blue and yellow create: a. black b. green

c. violet

d. orange

6. An example of a tertiary color would be:  a. yellow-orange b. blue-yellow

c. violet

d. blue

7. Mixing varying proportions of a primary color with its neighboring secondary color will produce:  a. white b. black c. gray d. a tertiary color 8. Which of the following combinations is NOT a tertiary color?  a. red-violet b. blue-green c. red-orange

d. blue-yellow

9. Mixing colors found opposite one another on the color wheel produces which color?  a. green b. white c. brown or dark gray d. blue 10. Which of the following descriptions identifies warm colors?  a. colors that contain blue hues b. colors that contain green hues c. colors that fall into the orange and red half of the color wheel d. colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel 11. Cool colors include?  a. blues

308

b. yellows

c. reds

d. oranges

12. Colors found opposite each other on the color wheel are called:  a. complementary colors b. primary colors c. secondary colors

d. tertiary colors

13. An application of what colors would help rid a client of unwanted orange tones?  a. green-based b. brown-based c. blue-based

d. black-based

14. The brightness or vividness of a hair color is referred to as:  a. level b. texture c. intensity

d. porosity

15. A small population of eumelanin will produce:  a. black hair b. red hair

d. dark brown hair

c. light blond hair

16. A predominant amount of pheomelanin will produce:  a. black hair b. brown hair c. red hair

d. blond hair

17. A level 10 color is:  a. the darkest level

d. a neutral level

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b. the lightest level

c. a medium level

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18. Which hair texture may tend to process slightly lighter than the intended level?  a. coarse b. medium c. fine

d. thinning

19. Which colors coat the cuticle but do not enter the cortex?  a. semi-permanent b. long-lasting semi-permanent c. permanent d. temporary 20. Temporary colors are available in all of the following forms EXCEPT:  a. weekly rinses b. color mousses c. mascaras

d. developers

21. Which of the following products requires the use of a skin patch test?  a. temporary color b. color mousses c. permanent color

d. weekly rinses

22. A nonoxidative process that uses large and small color molecules and allows small color molecules to penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex is called:  a. temporary coloring b. semi-permanent coloring c. demi-permanent coloring d. permanent coloring 23. Which of the following characteristics does NOT describe semi-permanent colors?  a. only deposits color b. retouches are not required c. leaves a line of demarcation d. does not use chemicals to alter the hair 24. Hair color products that are mixed with a developer are called:  a. oxidative colors b. nonoxidative colors c. temporary colors

d. semi-permanent colors

25. A type of coloring using a low volume peroxide that can only deposit color or add tone to the hair would be:  a. temporary coloring b. permanent coloring c. semi-permanent coloring d. long-lasting semi-permanent coloring 26. Long-lasting semi-permanent colors will generally last:  a. 1 to 2 weeks b. 2 to 3 weeks c. 4 to 6 weeks

d. at least 3 months

27. Demi-permanent colors are NOT designed to:  a. add tone b. deposit color

c. last 4 to 6 weeks

d. lift or lighten existing color

28. Permanent hair colors are sometimes called:  a. oxidative tints with ammonia c. color crayons

b. color pomades d. weekly rinses

29. Paraphenylenediamine or paratoluenediamine would be found in which of the following:  a. temporary colors b. semi-permanent colors c. vegetable dyes d. permanent hair colors 30. A 20 volume peroxide solution will generally lift the hair:  a. two levels b. three levels c. four levels

d. five levels

31. A 30 volume hydrogen peroxide solution will lift the hair how many more levels than a 20 volume solution?  a. 1 level b. 2 levels c. 3 levels d. 4 levels 32. What may be required if the desired amount of lift is not achieved using a single-process color?  a. prelightening b. addition of a temporary color c. addition of a filler d. addition of a demi-permanent color 33. What product is used before a color service to provide an even base?  a. toner b. intensifier c. filler

d. drabber

13

34. Which of the following statements is true of lighteners?  a. used to add melanin to the hair b. generally applied to wet hair c. used to add polymers and melanin d. used to diffuse or remove melanin

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On-the-scalp lighteners have a pH of:  35. a. 2.5 to 3.5 b. 4.0 to 5.5

c. 6.5 to 7.5

36. Off-the scalp lighteners are generally used for:  a. virgin coloring c. special effects such as painting

b. retouch coloring d. soap capping

d. about 9.0

37. What item is the most commonly used developer or oxidizing agent?  a. aniline b. nitrogen c. oxygen

d. hydrogen peroxide

38. A 10 volume developer in the United States would be equivalent to what level of developer in Europe?  a. 3% b. 6% c. 20 volume d. 30 volume 39. What instrument is used to measure the strength of hydrogen peroxide?  a. pH meter b. ammeter c. hydrometer

d. patch test

40. An organic product that produces reddish highlights is commonly known as:  a. henna b. metallic color c. filler

d. chamomile

41. Chemical services should not be performed on hair that has been colored with any of the following products EXCEPT:  a. henna b. metallic dyes c. compound dyes d. weekly rinses 42. Chamomile would be an example of a:  a. vegetable dye b. metallic dye

c. compound dye

d. permanent dye

43. What technique is used to add tone or darken the existing color?  a. midstrand to ends b. ends to base c. base to ends

d. ends to midstrand

44. A highlighting technique in which a crochet hook is used to pull hair strands through a perforated cap is called:  a. reverse highlighting b. cap method c. double-process blond d. weaving 45. A skin patch test will help determine:  a. the processing time for a lightener b. the processing time for the color procedure c. the correct formula for the color procedure d. if the client has a sensitivity or an allergic reaction to the chemicals being used 46. If redness and swelling are found around the test area when performing a predisposition test, which of the following steps should NOT be taken?  a. stop the service b. proceed with the service c. ask the client how they are feeling d. have the client seek medical assistance 47. Which of the following statements is true of products that contain aniline derivatives?  a. they are always temporary b. they may be applied to the eyebrows c. a skin patch test is not required d. a skin patch test is required 48. A skin patch test must be done at least how many hours before the actual procedure that requires the predisposition test?  a. 2 b. 6 c. 12 d. 24 49. What test can detect the presence of previous applications that may not be compatible with the planned application?  a. skin patch b. preliminary strand c. porosity d. pH 50. What factor would be a consideration regarding a preliminary strand test?  a. it is not necessary to drape the client for this test b. position the test strand so the client can’t see the results c. position the test strand so the client can see the results d. if the hair is going to be cut cancel the preliminary strand test 310

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51. Which light gives a true color reflection?  a. incandescent light b. fluorescent light

c. sunlight

d. ultraviolet light

52. Which light generally makes the hair appear warmer than it actually is?  a. incandescent light b. fluorescent light c. sunlight

d. ultraviolet light

53. Which light generally makes the hair appear cooler?  a. incandescent light b. fluorescent light

d. ultraviolet light

c. sunlight

54. Applying a non-oxidative color product or an oxidative color without ammonia over previously colored hair to refresh the color is referred to as:  a. virgin darker b. virgin lighter c. double-process blond d. color glazing 55. When lightening hair for the first time, what technique should be used?  a. base to ends b. midstrand to ends, then base c. ends to base d. base, then midstrand to ends 56. Darker result retouch procedures will generally need to be performed every:  a. 1 to 2 weeks b. 2 to 4 weeks c. 6 to 8 weeks

d. 12 to 16 weeks

57. Upon completion of an oxidative color procedure, be sure to do all of the following procedures EXCEPT:  a. complete a client record card b. perform a strand test c. wash your hands with a liquid antibacterial soap d. offer a rebook visit 58. Lighter result retouch applications should not exceed:  a. 2 minutes b. 10 minutes c. 30 minutes

d. 60 minutes

59. Which technique is performed on the surface of hair to create a highlighted or lowlighted color effect?  a. surface painting b. lighter result touchup c. virgin lightener d. color glazing 60. Coloring hair back to its natural color is called:  a. stripping b. tinting back

c. repositioning

d. lightening

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. Review that material.

1.

page 494



7.

page 495

13.

page 496

19.

page 505



2.

page 494



8.

page 495

14.

page 497

20.

page 506



3.

page 494



9.

page 496

15.

page 498

21.

page 506



4.

page 494

10.

page 496

16.

page 498

22.

page 507



5.

page 494

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page 496

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page 499

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page 507



6.

page 495

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page 508

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final review continued 25.

page 508

34.

page 512

43.

page 520

52.

page 526

26.

page 508

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page 513

44.

page 522

53.

page 526

27.

page 508

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page 513

45.

page 523

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page 537

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page 509

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page 514

46.

page 523

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page 537

29.

page 509

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page 537

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page 510

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page 524

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page 516

49.

page 525

58.

page 538

32.

page 510

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page 516

50.

page 525

59.

page 539

33.

page 511

42.

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page 526

60.

page 555

notes to myself

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about Hair Coloring:

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Lessons learned • C  olor is the visual perception of the reflection of light, and its main characteristics are tone, level and intensity. • The color wheel is a tool used to describe any mixed color in relation to the primary colors. Colors opposite one another on the color wheel are complementary colors and are used in hair coloring to neutralize unwanted tones. • Natural and artificial hair colors are identified by their level, which specifies the lightness or darkness of the color from blond to black, and their tone, which specifies whether the color is warm, cool or neutral. • The client’s final hair color is the result of its contributing pigment and the formula of artificial pigments, developers and/or lighteners applied to the hair. • Nonoxidative colors produce temporary or semi-permanent results and oxidative colors produce long-lasting or permanent results. Lighteners are used to decolorize pigment and to achieve lighter color results. • Color designs are achieved using base-to-ends, midstrand-to-ends and base application techniques and freeform painting, weaving and slicing and the cap method coloring techniques.

things to do



























things to do



















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C HA PTER 1 4

THE STUDY OF NAILS VALUE Providing specialized nail services for your clients will help improve their total image and in turn assist you in retaining more loyal clients.

MAIN IDEA Knowing the Theory Behind Nails + Performing Natural and Artificial Nail Care Procedures = Meeting Client’s Total Image Needs

plan

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14.1 Nail Theory

Nail Structure Nail Growth Nail Diseases, Disorders and Conditions

14.3 ARTIFICIAL NAIL CARE

14.2 NATURAL NAIL CARE Nail Shapes Nail Essentials Infection Control and Safety Client Consultation Basic Manicure Male Manicure Pedicure Essentials Basic Pedicure Special Nail Services

Artificial Nail Essentials Infection Control and Safety Nail Tips Tips With Acrylic Overlay Sculptured Nails Additional Artificial Nail Services

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THE

STUDY

O F

N A IL S

sm a r tN OT ES 1 4.1 NAIL T HEORY Onychology

p ages 5 63 - 5 6 4 13

The study of __________ nails 12

Nail Structure

3

11

1. Free Edge 2. Nail Body 3. Nail Wall 4. Lunula 5. Eponychium 6. Cuticle 7. Nail Matrix 8. Nail Root 9. Mantle 10. Nail Bed 11. Nail Grooves 12. Perionychium 13. Hyponychium

Extends beyond the end of the finger or toe Visible nail __________ area Folds of skin on either side of nail groove Whitened half-moon shape at base of nail Cuticle that overlaps lunula at nail __________ base Loose, overlapping __________ around the nail skin Generates __________that make the nail cells Attached to __________ matrix Holds __________ and matrix root Area of nail on which nail body rests Tracks that nail moves on as it grows Skin that __________, overlaps and surrounds nail touches Skin underneath the free __________ edge

4 5 6 9 1 2 10 8 7

Nail Growth Keratin Rate

Injuries

Protein that hardens to make the __________ nail Under normal circumstances it takes 4 to 6 __________ months to grow a new nail; ⅛” per month in adults; faster in summer; toenails grow slower Can result in shape distortions or nail discoloration is lost due to __________ trauma and, without the protection of the nail plate, •• A nail the nail bed or matrix is injured is lost through__________ or infection. The regrown nail, in these disease •• A nail circumstances, is often distorted in shape

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 4.1 NAIL T HEORY

p ages 5 6 4 - 5 65

Nail Diseases, Disorders and Conditions Onychosis

Etiology

Hand and Nail Examination Six Signs of Infection

Any disease, disorder or condition of the nail

Cause of nail disease, disorder or condition

Check for problems

Pain, swelling, redness, local fever, throbbing and pus



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SYMPTOM OBSERVED:

MAY INDICATE:

Coldness

_________________________ Lack of circulation



Heat

_________________________ Infection



Dry Texture

_________________________ Lack of moisture



Redness

Need for moisture/possible _________________________ diseases or disorders



Color of Nail Bed

_________________________ Injury; disease; poor circulation



Condition of Free Edge

_________________________ Nail biter; dry, brittle nails



Tenderness/Stiffness

_________________________ Arthritis

Nail Plate Shape/Thickness

_________________________ Disease or disorder; how to file

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THE

D I S EA S E

DESCRIPTION

E TIOLO GY ( C AU S E ) S YM P TOM S /P ROGN OS IS

Onychomycosis

Ringworm

Fungus

Tinea Unguium

Tinea Manus

Hand Ringworm

Tinea Pedis

Fungus

Fungus

Athlete's Foot/Foot Ringworm

Paronychia/Felon

Onychoptosis

Inflammation

Bacterial Infection

Shedding of Nails

Onychia

Disease/Injury

Inflammation of Matrix

Onychatrophia

Wasting Away of Nail

Onycholysis

Bacterial Infection

Injury/Systemic

Loosening of Nail

Internal Disorder/ Systemic

No service may

Itching; red blisters; must be diagnosed and treated by a physician Signs of infection; must be diagnosed and treated by a physician; takes 4 weeks to heal; may grow out irregular Sensitive; nail loss; nail will regrow; needs to be protected Signs of infection; nail may not grow back; if it does may grow deformed; needs to be protected Shrinkage; separation; may improve in 3 to 6 months Loose nail; not totally detached; must be diagnosed and treated by a physician; nail stays attached

Blue Nails

Bluish in Color

Systemic/Injury

Ridges Across Nail

Injury/Systemic

be performed

be performed

No service may be performed

No service may be performed

No service may be performed

No service may be performed

No service may be performed

No service may be performed

SER V ICE

Bluish color; make client aware of problem and possible causes; suggest seeing a physician

Manicure

Thin nails; almost see-through; transparent

Polish

Condition

Corrugations

SER V ICE

Rings containing tiny blisters; can spread to nails, scalp, feet or body; must be diagnosed by physician

E TIOLO GY ( C AU S E ) S YM P TOM S /P ROGN OS IS

Hereditary/Nervous

N A IL S

No service may

DESCRIPTION

Thin, Soft Nails

O F

Nail thickens and discolors; deformed nail may fall off; must be diagnosed and treated by physician

DISORDER

Eggshell Nails

STUDY

with caution

to protect

Ridges; buffing lightly; ridges may disappear while growing out

Lightly buff; apply base coat

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D I S O R D ER

DESCRIPTION

E TIOLO GY ( C AU S E ) S YM P TOM S /P ROGN OS IS

Kolionychia

Spoon Nails

Systemic/Illness

SER V ICE

Concave; unusual nail shape, unlikely to disappear

File carefully; polish to protect

Furrows

Vertical Lines

Injury/Nutritional Deficiencies

Indented vertical lines; buff lightly; may grow out; may be permanent

Lightly buff; apply base coat

Onychogryposis

Onychocryptosis

Claw Nails

Ingrown Nails

Systemic

Environmental/ Poor Trimming

Clean under

Signs of infection; no service may be performed if infected; refer client to physician if deeply embedded

Soften skin;

Thickness; easily recognizable; likely to disappear

Lightly buff

Onychauxis

Thickening of

Hypertrophy

Nail Plate

CO N D I TI O N S

DESCRIPTION

E TIOLO GY ( C AU S E ) S YM P TOM S /P ROGN OS IS

Agnails

Hangnails

Dry Cuticle

Bruised Nails

Purple Nails

(Splinter

Injury/Systemic

Thick; curved; claw-like; physician may remove if difficult to clean or nails are severely deformed

Trapped Blood

White Spots

trim nail

SER V ICE

Skin breaks at corner of nail; can be trimmed; may heal in 2 to 3 days

Trim hangnail; moisturize

Trauma/Environmental/ Discoloration under nail; normal nail

Hemorraghes)

Leuconychia

free edge; file

No pressure

growth will continue; bruised area will grow out with nail

on nail plate

Injury/Heredity/

Small separation from nail bed; grows

Perform nail

Systemic

out with nail

service as usual

Pterygium

Living, Excess Skin

Severe Injury; Other

Attached to

Disease

Nail Plate

Excess living skin that remains attached either at hyponichum or eponychium and can disrupt nail growth

No service can be performed on affected nails

Onychophagy

Onychorrhexis

Bitten Nails

Split Nails

Habit

Easily recognizable; nail will regrow if biting stops; nail plate appears flat, may be deformed; can completely recover

Perform nail service weekly

Injury/Improper Filing/ Easily recognizable; file carefully with

Soften nails;

Chemicals

hot oil

emery board; may be permanent

manicure

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THE

STUDY

O F

N A IL S

sm a r tN OT ES 1 4.1 NAIL T HEORY Pigmentation Problems Discoloration Nail Fungus

Health of Body

pa ge 570

May indicate problems in the nail bed or nail plate Nail fungus causes discoloration and is a very contagious vegetable parasite that is easily spread; refer clients with nail fungus to a physician Condition of hands and nails will often indicate the overall health of the body

1 4. 2 NAT URAL NAI L C AR E Purpose of Nail Service

p ages 570 - 574

To improve the appearance of the hands and nails

Nail Shapes



________ Pointed

________ Oval

________ Round

________ Square

________ Squoval

Infection Control and Safety 1. Stop and wash Blood Spill Procedure 2. Apply antiseptic 3. Dress or cover injury 4. Cover injured area 5. Clean and disinfect implements 6. Double-bag all blood-soiled articles 7. Return to client and continue

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Basic Manicure Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide and conduct basic manicure and pedicure services in a safe environment, free from disease.

Preparation •• Clean nail table; place fresh soaking lotion and disinfected nail

implements on nail table; review and arrange products in order of use

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













•• Analyze skin and nails thoroughly; consult with client







•• File and shape nails; apply cuticle remover; place hand in finger bowl







•• Repeat filing, shaping and cuticle care on opposite hand







•• Pat first hand dry; push back cuticles; scrub hand and nails







•• Clean under free edge; pat hand dry







•• Repeat cuticle care and cleaning on opposite hand







•• Apply massage lotion or cream; perform massage techniques







•• Remove all traces of massage lotion or cream from nails







•• Apply base coat; apply two coats of polish; apply polish at free edge







•• Remove excess polish from skin







•• Apply top coat and quick-dry product













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Sanitize hands; perform visual examination of hands and nails; remove polish

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

42



Percentage = student score / highest possible score

320

TOTAL POINTS = %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Basic Pedicure Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide and conduct basic manicure and pedicure services in a safe environment, free from disease.

Preparation •• Clean and disinfect implements; set up equipment and lay out

tools on sanitized table; review and arrange products in order of use; prepare foot bath; wash hands

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













•• Remove nail polish; examine feet; trim and file nails







•• Apply cuticle remover cream; push back cuticles







•• Apply sloughing lotion and massage to remove dead skin cells







•• Repeat trimming, filing and cuticle care on opposite foot







•• Scrub both feet with brush to remove debris; dry thoroughly; massage with lotion













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Wash and sanitize hands; sanitize client’s feet; perform a visual examination; soak and dry feet

•• Remove excess lotion from nail surface; apply powder and position toe separators

•• Apply base coat; apply two coats of polish; apply top coat, followed by quick-drying product







•• Allow drying time







•• Remove toe separators when dry













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

TOTAL POINTS = 36

Percentage = student score / highest possible score

%

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 4.2 NAT URAL NAIL C AR E

p ages 5 8 4 - 5 8 5

Special Nail Services French Manicure

Nail Repair (Mending with Silk)

Hot Oil or Cream Manicure Electric Nail Services Nail Art

White polish on free edge; pink or peach polish applied to entire nail

1. Smooth over broken or split area with black side of 3-way buffer 2. Apply __________ dehydrant to nail 3. Cut fiber, slightly larger than split or break 4. Apply __________ adhesive to split or broken area over split or break with tweezers; cut away uneven edges 5. Place __________ fiber 6. Smooth and apply second layer of __________ adhesive smooth 7. Dry and __________ buff 8. Soak and scrub nail repair area Hand is placed in warm oil or cream; great for moisturizing

Special tools that file, buff, smooth and push __________ cuticles Creative expression with nail paint and 3-D accessories

1 4.3 ART IFICIAL NAI L C AR E Three General Product Systems

MMA (Methyl Methacrylate)

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1. Acrylic nails (__________ powder or liquid) 2. Nail wraps (fiberglass, silk, linen and nylon) nails (light-cured) 3. __________ Gel Liquid methyl methacrylate is a poisonous __________; substance should not be used in acrylic monomers Safe to use in acrylic polymers

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Nail Tips Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide and conduct basic manicure and pedicure services in a safe environment, free from disease.

Preparation •• Clean nail table; place fresh soaking lotion and disinfected nail

implements on nail table; review and arrange products in order of use

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Wash and sanitize hands; perform visual analysis •• Remove nail polish; perform thorough hand and nail examination and consultation







•• Select correct size of nail tips; file and shape natural free edge







•• Buff nail surface gently; apply dehydrant to nail surface







•• Apply first drop of adhesive to well of plastic tip; roll tip onto natural nail slowly; hold nail for 15-30 seconds







•• Apply second drop of adhesive on top of seam; spray with adhesive accelerator







•• Trim free edge of nail tip; measure length of all nails; file free edge







•• File and buff top of seam; buff to shine or polish







•• Blend and smooth imperfections













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

TOTAL POINTS = 33

Percentage = student score / highest possible score

%

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Tips With Acrylic Overlay Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide and conduct basic manicure and pedicure services in a safe environment, free from disease.

Preparation •• Clean nail table; place fresh soaking lotion and disinfected nail

implements on nail table; review and arrange products in order of use

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Wash and sanitize hands; perform visual analysis •• Remove nail polish; perform thorough hand and nail examination and consultation







•• Prepare natural nail – buff, dehydrate, prime







•• Apply tips; buff nails and tips







•• Form bead on side or tip of acrylic brush







•• Apply acrylic at free edge (zone 1)







•• Pat and press with belly of brush to blend







•• Blend acrylic toward middle of nail plate (zone 2)







•• Place second acrylic bead in middle of nail plate (zone 2)







•• Pat and press toward free edge







•• Place third acrylic bead at cuticle area (zone 3)







•• Pat and press toward middle of nail plate (zone 2)







•• File and shape nail; buff to smooth finish













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

45



Percentage = student score / highest possible score

324

TOTAL POINTS = %

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R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Sculptured Nails Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide and conduct basic manicure and pedicure services in a safe environment, free from disease.

Preparation •• Clean nail table; place fresh soaking lotion and disinfected nail

implements on nail table; review and arrange products in order of use

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Wash and sanitize hands; perform visual analysis; remove nail polish







•• Perform thorough hand and nail examination and consultation







•• File free edge; buff surface of nail lightly; remove filing residue







•• Apply dehydrant; apply nail form; apply primer if directed







To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

•• Measure out required amount of acrylic powder; form bead on side of brush







•• Apply acrylic bead to form to create free edge (zone 1); rotate brush; pat and press toward edges of nail form







•• Define shape and length of free edge







•• Create second acrylic bead; place second bead in middle section (zone 2); pat, press and stroke acrylic into place







•• Place smallest bead just below cuticle (zone 3); pat, press and stroke acrylic down to base of nail







•• Apply fourth bead (optional)







•• Remove form; file and buff; remove nail dust













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

TOTAL POINTS = 39

Percentage = student score / highest possible score

%

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sm a r tN OT ES 1 4.3 ART IFICIAL NAI L S Fill-Ins and Re-Balancing Acrylic Nails

p ages 597- 598

Acrylic nails require fill-in services when nail has grown ¹/16" (.156 cm) or approximately every two weeks Important to help prevent trapped moisture and growth of nail fungus

Removing Nail Tips, Tips with Overlays and Sculptured Nails

Soak nails in the product solvent recommended by the manufacturer Gently lift artificial nail using orangewood stick Cleanse nail using polish remover followed by cleansing solution

Additional Artificial Nail Services Nail Wraps

Woven materials applied to natural nails or nails with tips to add strength

TYPES fiberglass • Synthetic fiber • Almost invisible when applied

silk • Natural fiber • Creates a smooth overlay

linen • Thicker fabric • Remains visible

nylon • Used for repair • Not as strong as other wraps

Liquid nail wrap – acts as a nail strengthener; basically a polish containing fibers Light-Cured Gel Nails

Acrylic gel applied to nail plate Special light causes product to harden; called “curing” Used to reinforce weak nails or used over tips to add sheen and strength

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TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others.

Discoloration; for what reason?

Select the three nail diseases that you feel would be the most difficult to recognize and then discuss with a partner.

Onycolysis; why?

Properly applying the acrylic to nail so it is not too thick or thin; looks natural

Waitress, nurse, data processor, cook, surgeon, massage therapist, tennis player

Identify the step in applying artificial nails that gives you the most difficulty and discuss with a partner.

List three occupations where having long fingernails might be a nuisance, distraction or detrimental.

the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this STUDY GUIDE.

1. The study of the structure and growth of nails is known as___________________. 2. The nail is made of a hardened protein called ____________________, 3. TRUE FALSE Nail growth is very similar to the growth of hair. 4. Onychosis is defined as any disease, disorder or ____________________of the nail. 5. Can you name the six signs of infection in the nail and hands? _______________________________________ _____________________________________ _______________________________________ _____________________________________ _______________________________________ _____________________________________ 6. TRUE FALSE A healthy nail is flexible, translucent and pinkish in color. 7. The cosmetic care of the hands and fingernails is defined as_______________________. 8. Explain the first step in a basic manicure procedure. ______________________________________________________ _____________________________________________ 9. There are three general product systems by which artificial nails can be created. Can you name them? _________________________________________ _______________________________________ _________________________________________ 10. Fill-in services are required approximately two weeks following coating the entire nail with an acrylic. Explain why this is a very important procedure.

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MEMORY BOX

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GOT IT NOT YET



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7. page 576



GOT IT NOT YET



8. page 576



GOT IT NOT YET



9. page 586



GOT IT NOT YET



10. page 597



GOT IT NOT YET

know chart I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:



1. onychology 2. keratin 3. True 4. condition 5. redness, pus, throbbing, pain, local fever, swelling 6. True 7. manicuring 8. wash and sanitize hands 9. acrylics, wraps, gels 10. outgrowth of new nail from matrix

SHOW YOU KNOW...

The manager of the salon has just announced at the staff meeting that a prize will be awarded to the stylist or group of stylists that create the best nail promotion. The nail promotion will be held during the month of May. The manager has requested that the following items be included in the promotion: 1) theme 2) special pricing 3) ad for the newspaper 4) flyer for clients visiting the salon.

flyer

theme

May is the month to LOVE your hands and feet!

Debbie’s Nail Salon 2 for 1, bring a friend!

Open 7 days a Week Walk-ins Welcome 1.847.555.0368

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KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 14, The Study of Nails. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build selfconfidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

What is the function of

KNOW

The function of the nail matrix is to generate cells which harden as they move outward from the root to the nail.

the nail matrix?

Identify the guidelines for whether a nail

Comprehend

service may be performed if a nail disease, disorder or condition is present. Offer an example of what you might observe in a hand and nail

Apply

The guidelines that determine whether a nail service may be performed are: if a disease is present, no nail service may be performed; the client must be referred to a physician. If a disorder is present, nail services may be done with care; the client may want to consult a physician for help and information. If a condition is present, nail services can be performed, and the condition should improve with correct techniques, products or improved nutrition. During a hand and nail examination, coldness of the skin may indicate poor circulation.

examination that might indicate that the client has poor circulation. Classify the following diseases, disorders and

Analyze

conditions into the proper category.

In your own words, describe the purpose of

Synthesize

the Consult step of the Client Consultation.

Defend the importance of following infection

Evaluate

Kolionchia - disorder Onychomycosis - disease Leuconychia - condition Onychatrophia - disease Onychocryptosis - disorder

The purpose of the Consult step includes asking questions to discover client needs, analyzing the client's nails and hands and assessing the facts and thoroughly thinking through your recommendations.

Infection control procedures are extremely important to safeguard the client from possible injury.

control guidelines when performing an

14

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a class act Now that you have completed your work in The Study of Nails, it’s time to demonstrate your creative talents. Each member of the class will plan, sketch, demonstrate (either on a nail tip or a fellow student) and explain a flat nail art design. Remember: Before starting the design you must sketch it, list key features to be explained and name your creation.

SKETCH

KEY FE ATURES

DESIGN NAME: All designs will be judged for:





Plan /Sketch

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10



points:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Demonstration



points:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Explanation





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BRAIN COND IT IO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer . 1. What term describes the technical name for the nail? a. onyx b. cuticle c. mantle

d. lunula

2. What term describes the deep pocket-like area that holds the root and matrix of the nail? a. nail groove b. mantle c. lunula d. onyx 3. The active tissue that generates cells that harden as they move outward from the root to the nail is called the: a. eponychium b. nail matrix c. mantle d. nail plate 4. What term describes the whitened, half-moon shaped area at the base of the nail? a. matrix b. eponychium c. lunula

d. nail root

5. The loose and pliable overlapping skin around the nail is the: a. hyponychium b. leuconychia c. cuticle

d. nail wall

6. The area on which the nail plate rests is the: a. hyponychium b. mantle

c. nail bed

d. nail root

7. The skin under the free edge of the nail is the: a. lunula b. eponychium

c. hyponychium

d. nail root

8. The folds of skin on either side of the nail groove are called the: a. nail plate b. nail bed c. nail wall

d. perionychium

9. The visible area from the nail root to the free edge is called the: a. nail matrix b. nail body c. mantle

d. perionychium

10. The study of the structure and growth of nails is called: a. etiology b. neurology c. onychology

d. onychosis

11. The part of the nail that extends beyond the end of the finger is called the: a. free edge b. cuticle c. lunula

d. nail wall

12. The nail is made from a hardened protein called: a. keratin b. onyx

d. glucose

c. lunula

13. Damage to which portion of the nail could cause permanent distortions? a. perionychium b. matrix or nail bed c. free edge

d. hyponychium

14. Under normal conditions, growth of a new nail plate takes approximately: a. 2 weeks b. 4 to 6 months c. 1 year

d. 2 years

15. Any disease, disorder or condition of the nail is called an: a. onychomycosis b. onychology c. etiology

d. onychosis

16. Medical attention is required for a nail: a. disorder b. condition

d. cuticle

c. disease

17. What item contains lymph, blood vessels and nerves that create cells? a. matrix b. nail plate c. lunula

d. free edge

18. In what season of the year do nails tend to grow fastest? a. autumn b. winter c. spring

d. summer

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19. Which fingernail grows the slowest? a. ring fingernail b. middle fingernail

c. little fingernail

d. thumb nail

20. Which of the following statements is true about toenails? a. they grow faster than fingernails b. they grow slower than fingernails c. they are softer than fingernails d. they are thinner than fingernails 21. Which of the following conditions does NOT indicate a decreasing rate of nail growth? a. aging b. winter c. summer d. poor nutrition 22. Nail services may be performed with care and the client may want to consult a physician, if the client has a nail: a. condition b. disorder c. disease d. plate 23. A healthy nail is smooth, curved, translucent, pinkish in color and: a. is without hollows or wavy ridges b. has wavy hollows and ridges c. is slightly rough d. is filed deep into the corners 24. The cause of a disease, disorder or condition is called: a. prognosis b. etiology c. symptom

d. identification

25. What disease is commonly called athlete’s foot? a. tinea manus b. onychomycosis

d. tinea pedis

c. paronychia

26. What condition appears as rings containing tiny blisters, dark pink to reddish in color, and can be confused with eczema or contact dermatitis? a. paronychia b. tinea manus c. onychia d. onychoptosis 27. What condition could result when hangnails become infected? a. paronychia b. tinea manus c. tinea pedis

d. onychia

28. All of the following descriptions identify possible causes of paronychia EXCEPT: a. systemic disease b. infected hangnail c. bacterial infection d. prolonged exposure to water 29. The technical name for the disease referred to as ringworm of the nail is: a. tinea manus b. tinea pedis c. onychomycosis

d. paronychia

30. Poor circulation can cause a disorder called: a. onychia b. corrugations

d. furrows

c. blue nails

31. Which term refers to a loosening or separation of the nail? a. onycholysis b. corrugations c. onychogryposis

d. tinea pedis

32. The shedding or falling out of nails is called: a. onychia b. tinea pedis

c. onychoptosis

d. felon

33. Atrophy or wasting away of the nail is called: a. onychatrophia b. paronychia

c. onychomycosis

d. onychia

34. Which of the following nail diseases is NOT caused by fungus? a. tinea pedis b. onychomycosis c. tinea manus

d. onychatrophia

35. The disorder in which the nail grows into the edge of the nail groove causing ingrown nails is called: a. onychocryptosis b. onchopgryposis c. onychauxis d. leuconychia

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36. Spoon nails is another term for: a. kolionychia b. corrugations

c. furrows

37. Living skin that becomes attached to the nail plate is referred to as: a. onychophagy b. agnails c. leuconychia

d. claw nails d. pterygium

38. Small white spots in the nail in which a small separation between the nail and nail bed has occurred due to injury is called: a. leuconychia b. blue nails c. bruised nails d. agnails 39. Agnails is another name for: a. bruised nails b. hangnails

c. claw nails

d. thin nails

40. What term refers to the thickening of the nail plate or an abnormal outgrowth of the nail? a. tinea manus b. onychia c. onychauxis d. pterygium 41. What sign can indicate serious problems in the nail bed or nail plate? a. hangnails b. leuconychia c. discoloration

d. onychophagy

42. Improper filing, injuries or harsh chemicals can be causes of which of the following? a. hangnail b. split nails c. fungus d. bruised nails 43. When performing a manicure, what product may be used to loosen dead skin? a. antiseptic b. cuticle remover cream c. first aid cream

d. acetone

44. How many basic shape classifications for nails are there? a. 2 b. 4 c. 5

d. 6

45. Nail service implements must be disinfected or discarded: a. once every hour b. after every service c. at closing time

d. on a weekly basis

46. A colorless polish that evens out the nail plate and prevents pigments from penetrating the nail plate is called a: a. base coat b. sealer c. nail enamel d. nail strengthener 47. A colorless polish that keeps colored polish from chipping is called a: a. base coat b. sealer c. nail enamel

d. nail strengthener

48. Proper infection control, safety and blood spill procedures are practiced: a. only with sick clients b. during warm season c. when someone is watching you d. at all times 49. When not in use, nail service implements should be stored: a. in a covered container b. in an open container c. in soapy water

d. in distilled water

50. The manicurist and client are required to wash their hands with what product prior to performing a manicure service? a. liquid soap b. moisturizing lotion c. soaking solution d. hydrogen peroxide 51. What procedure should be followed for any cut that may occur during a manicure? a. sanitizing b. cleaning c. blood spill d. antiseptic 52. In which direction should a nail be shaped to avoid splitting? a. from top to bottom b. from the bottom to the top c. from the outer edge toward the center d. from the center toward the outer edge

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53. How should nail polish be applied? a. from the free edge toward the base c. using light, sweeping strokes

b. on the sides first d. in one stroke per nail

54. What term is used to describe the cosmetic care of the feet and toenails? a. pedicuring b. manicuring c. etiology

d. onychology

55. What item can be used to smooth calluses on the feet? a. foot brush b. foot powder c. foot file

d. toenail clipper

56. A hot oil or cream manicure is helpful for all of the following conditions EXCEPT: a. dry, aging hands b. ingrown toenails c. brittle nails d. ridged nails 57. All of the following product systems can be used to create artificial nails EXCEPT: a. oil and rubber b. wraps c. light-cured gels d. powder and liquid acrylic 58. Fungus under the artificial nail is reported most often by clients who wear which type of nail? a. acrylic b. press-on c. gel d. sculptured 59. How often is a fill-in service for artificial nails required? a. every 2 weeks b. every 2 months c. every 6 months

d. once a year

60. Which nails use a special light to create a chemical reaction to harden the product? a. gel b. acrylic c. wrapped d. fiberglass

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines following the answers, jot down topics that you still need to review.

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7

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THE

STUDY

O F

N A IL S

final review continued 22.

page 564



35.

page 568

48.

page 574



23.

page 565

36.

page 568

49.

page 574

24.

page 565



37.

page 569

50.

page 574

25.

page 566

38.

page 569



51.

page 574

26.

page 566

39.

page 569

52.

page 577

27.

page 566

40.

page 569



53.

page 579

28.

page 566



41.

page 570

54.

page 581

29.

page 566

42.

page 570



55.

page 581

30.

page 567

43.

page 571

56.

page 585



31.

page 567

44.

page 571



57.

page 586



32.

page 567

45.

page 571

58.

page 593



33.

page 567

46.

page 572

59.

page 593

34.

page 567

47.

page 572

60.

page 598

notes to myself

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about The Study of Nails:

Lessons learned • • •

Understanding the structure and growth of nails and the diseases, disorders and conditions of the nail are essential in order to provide nail services that protect clients’ health and safety. Well-groomed and cared-for natural nails improve clients’ verall appearance. Artificial nail services enhance your clients’ appearance and in turn assist you in retaining more loyal clients.

1

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3

4

5

6

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15

C HA PTER 1 5

THE STUDY OF SKIN VALUE Your understanding of how to maintain and enhance the skin will allow you to provide services to help your clients look better and feel good.

MAIN IDEA

Ongoing Skin Maintenance + Creatively Applied Makeup = Healthy, Glowing Skin

PLAN

1 5 .1 S K I N THE ORY

Func tions of the Skin Co m p osition of the Skin Typ es of Skin Skin Diseases and Disorders

1 5 . 2 S K I N CA R E

M a ss a ge Fa cia l Masks Skin Care Essentials Infec t ion Control a nd S afety C l ient Consultation B a sic Fac ial

336

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15. 3 HA IR R E MOVAL

Hair R emoval Essen t i a l s Infection Control and Safety Client Consultat i o n Temporary Hair R emova l Basic Wax ing Permanent Hair R emova l

15.4 MA KE U P

Fac ial Shapes Color Theory Makeup Essenti a l s Infection Control and Safety Client Consultat i o n Makeup Techniq u e s and Produc ts Basic Makeup Application

1

2

3

4

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THE

ST UDY

O F

SK IN

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.1 SK IN T HEORY Dermatology

p ages 6 0 1 - 6 0 2

The study of skin, its structure, functions, diseases and treatment

Functions of the Skin

Composition of the Skin

Sensation (touch)

2.

Secretion (moisture)

3.

Absorption (through tissues)

4.

Regulation (hot, cold)

5.

Protection (shield)

6.

Excretion (toxins)

EPI DE RMIS

Located below the dermis

skin, also referred to as cuticle

layer of the skin, also called

and is composed of fatty

or scarf skin.

derma, corium, cutis or

tissue, alsoSUBCUTANEOUS called subcutis

true skin.

or subdermis.

Lucidum Granulosum

SFC_TSG_Ch15.indd 337

3

4

5

6

7

DERMIS

Germinativum

TISSUE

DERMIS

Hair Follicle

Stratum Corneum (KOHR-nee-um)

Sebaceous Stratum Lucidum (LOO-si-dum) Gland Stratum Granulosum (gran-yoo-LOH-sum)

Stratum Spinosum (spye-NO-sum)

Stratum Germinativum (jur-mih-nah-TIV-um) or Stratum Basale (Basal Layer)

SUBCUTANEOUS TISSUE

Spinosum

2

SUBCUTANEOUS

The underlying, or inner,

Corneum

1

DERMI S

The outermost layer of the

EPIDERMIS

Three Main Layers

1.

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5 LAYERS OF THE EPIDERMIS P ROTE CTIVE

ST ST

RATU M

Stratum Corneum ________________________________________________ Common Uppermost Layer Name __________________________________________ Keratin protein Special Cells _____________________________________________ Protects dermis/shedding Function ________________________________________________

CL E AR

UPPE

RMO

Stratum ________________________________________________ Lucidum Name Clear Layer Common __________________________________________ Squamous; flattened and transparent Special Cells _____________________________________________ Function ________________________________________________ Protects the palms of hands and soles of feet

G RA NUL AR Granulosum Stratum ________________________________________________ Granular Layer Common Name __________________________________________ Granular; almost dead cells Special Cells _____________________________________________ Replace cells that are shed from corneum Function ________________________________________________

LOWEST STR

ATUM

SPI N Y

338

Spinosum Stratum ________________________________________________ Spiny Layer Common Name __________________________________________ Irregularly shaped; spiny Special Cells _____________________________________________ Absorb melanin to distribute pigmentation to other cells Function ________________________________________________

BEG I NNI N G Germinativum Stratum ________________________________________________ Basal Layer Common Name __________________________________________ Living cells Special Cells _____________________________________________ Produce new cells Function ________________________________________________

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THE

ST UDY

O F

SK IN

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.1 SK IN T HEORY Dermis (True Skin)

p ages 6 0 3 - 60 6

Connective tissue; contains collagen and elastin fibers; supports epidermis and gives skin its elasticity

Sudoriferous Glands

T HR E E F UNCT IONS 1. Regulate body temperature 2. Excrete waste 3. Maintain acid pH

Sebaceous Glands Sebum Acid Mantle

Subcutaneous Tissue/Adipose (Fatty Layer)

Secretion of high fatty, oily substances Keeps skin smooth; prevents dirt and grime from entering; prevents skin from drying or chapping

Gives contour to body; acts as a shock absorber to protect bones; acts as an emergency reservoir of food and water



1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Stratum Corneum Stratum Lucidum Stratum Granulosum Stratum Spinosum Stratum Germinativum Sebaceous Glands Sudoriferous Glands

SUBCUTANEOUS TISSUE

DERMIS

EPIDERMIS

Label the Parts of Skin

Sac-like glands attached to hair follicle that produce sebum

1

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Skin Pigmentation

Melanin; protection from ultraviolet rays of the sun; melanin tans the skin

2

6

3

4

5

7

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15

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.1 SK IN T HEORY

p ages 6 0 8 - 61 4

WEB

Oily Overall shiny look; rough texture with blackheads and enlarged pores; in young people oily skin is prone to acne; must keep “acid-balanced” condition (pH 4.5 to 5.5)

Dry Peeling and flaking; chaps easily; overall taut feeling; has fewer blemishes; not prone to acne; two types: oily dry and moisture dry

Combination Most common skin type; found on any age; recognized by shiny “T-zone” (forehead, nose and chin); dryness in cheek, jaw line and hairline areas

Topic TYPES OF SKIN

Normal Very rare; quite beautiful; easily recognizable; fresh and healthy color; firm, moist and smooth texture; no blackheads or blemishes; does not appear oily

Skin Diseases and Disorders

Only a dermatologist or medical doctor should diagnose and treat skin diseases and disorders

Objective Symptoms

Those you see

Subjective Symptoms

Those you can feel

Signs of Infection

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1.

Pain

2.

Throbbing

3.

Swelling

4.

Redness

5.

Local fever

6.

Discharge

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

4/19/10 3:57:09 PM

THE

SKIN LESIONS

ST UDY

O F

SK IN

After completing the charts on pages 327-328, with a partner use the charts to quiz each other in creative and thorough ways.

NAME

CHARACTERISTICS

EXAMPLE

SERVICE?

PRIMARY

Abnormal changes in the structure of a tissue

Macules

Discoloration on skin’s surface; flat, rounded or oval; fades into surrounding areas

Freckle

Yes - Service

Papules

Hardened, red elevations; no fluid is present; hard to soft; raised

Pimple

Yes - Service

Vesicles

Fluid filled; elevated

Fever blister

No service on affected areas

Bulla

Like vesicles but larger

Some burns

No service on affected areas

Pustules

Small elevation; similar to vesicles in size and shape; contain pus

Large pimples

No service on affected areas

Wheals

Solid formation above skin; caused by insect bite or allergic reaction

Insect bite

Yes - Service

Tumors

Solid mass in the skin

Nodule

No service on affected areas

Secondary

Appear as disease progresses to later stages of growth

Scales

Shedding, dead cells

Psoriasis

Yes - Service

Crusts

Dried masses; oozing sore

Scab

No service on affected areas

Excoriations

Mechanical abrasions; appear dark red

Scratches

No service on affected areas

Fissures

Cracks in the skin

Chapped lips

No service on affected areas

Scars

Formations resulting from lesion

Keloids

Yes - Service

Ulcers

Open lesion

Loss of portion of dermis

No service on affected areas

HYPERTROPHIES

Overgrowth or excess skin

Callus

Thickening of skin; occurs from pressure and friction

Verruca

Warts; caused by virus; can be contagious

Skin Tags

Small, elevated growths of skin

Yes - Service Warts

No service on affected areas Yes - Service

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CHAP TER

15

P I G M E N TATI O N A B N O RM A L I TI ES NAME

CHARACTERISTICS

EXAMPLE

SERVICE?

MELANODERMA

Hyperpigmentation

Chloasma

Brownish, nonelevated spots

Liver spots

Yes - Service

Moles

Small; brown spots; can be raised

Mole

Yes - Service

Nevus

Birthmark; congenital mole; looks like a stain

Birthmark, mole

Yes - Service

Leukoderma

Lack of pigmentation

Albinism

Pink skin; white hair; no melanin produced

Protect skin from sunlight and UV lamps

Yes - Service

Vitiligo

Irregular patches of white skin

Same as with Albinism

Yes - Service

Yes - Service

D I SO R D E RS NAME

CHARACTERISTICS

SERVICE?

Comedones

Blackheads; masses of sebum trapped in hair follicle

Yes - Service

Milia

Whiteheads; hardened sebum beneath surface

No service on affected areas

Acne

Chronic; inflammatory; two stages: simplex or vulgaris

Yes - Service

Rosacea

Congestion of the cheeks and nose; redness; inflammatory

No service on affected areas

Asteatosis

Dry, scaly skin; reduced sebum

Yes - Service

Seborrhea

Excessive secretion of sebaceous glands

Yes - Service

Steatoma

Cyst, or wen; subcutaneous tumor; filled with sebum

Yes - Service

Furuncles

Boils; acute bacterial infection; appear in dermis and epidermis

No service on affected areas

Carbuncles

Cluster of furuncles; infection of several adjoining hair follicles

No service on affected areas

Bromidrosis

Foul-smelling perspiration; osmidrosis

Yes - Service

Anhidrosis

Lack of perspiration; caused by fever or disease

Yes - Service

Hyperhidrosis

Over-production of perspiration; caused by excessive heat or general body weakness

Yes - Service

Milia Rubra

Small, red vesicles erupt; burning; itching of skin; caused by excessive heat

No service on affected areas

Dermatitis

Inflammatory disorder of skin

No service on affected areas

Eczema

Dry or moist lesions with inflammation of the skin

No service on affected areas

Impetigo

Honey-yellow, crusted lesion; usually on face; caused by bacterial infection

No service on affected areas

SEBACEOUS GLANDS

SUDORIFEROUS GLANDS

OTHER INFLAMMATORY DISORDERS

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THE

ST UDY

O F

SK IN

sm a r tN OT ES p age s 61 4 - 6 1 6

1 5.2 SK IN CARE Skin Care

Care and treatments of the skin; daily skin routine, diet, water intake, exercise rest and professional treatments and products

4 Steps to Skin Care

1.

Cleanse

2.

Tone

3.

Moisturize

4.

Protect

Massage

MOV E ME NT Effleurage

Stroking

Petrissage

Kneading

Tapotement

E F F E CT

Tapping/Slapping

Friction

Circular or wringing without gliding

Vibration

Shaking

Soothing Stimulating Increases blood flow Stimulating Very stimulating

Facial Masks Types of Facial Masks

Benefits of Facial Masks

1

SFC_TSG_Ch15.indd 343

2

3

4

5

• Clay/Mud • Cream

• Modeling • Paraffin

• Gel

Temporary firmness; increase circulation; absorbs oil; remove dirt; refreshing

6

7

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CHAP TER

15



R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Basic Facial Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide basic skin care services, perform hair removal services and apply appropriate cosmetics to enhance a client’s appearance.

Preparation •• Disinfect facial area; assemble products and supplies; check equipment

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Wash and sanitize hands; drape client (cocoon wrap) •• Cleanse face; obtain cleansing cream; apply cleansing cream; remove cleansing cream







•• Apply toner







•• Place eyepads over client’s eyes







•• Analyze client’s skin







•• Apply exfoliant; remove exfoliant







•• Apply toner







•• Obtain massage cream; apply massage cream; perform massage movements; remove massage cream







•• Apply toner







•• Apply facial mask; allow mask to set; remove mask







•• Apply toner







•• Apply moisturizing cream













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

42



Percentage = student score / highest possible score

344

TOTAL POINTS = %

UNIT 3 NAIL AND SKIN SERVICES

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THE

ST UDY

O F

SK IN

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.3 HAIR REM OVAL Hypertrichosis

Unwanted hair

Two Types of Hair Removal

Shaving Chemical Depilatories Tweezing

Waxing

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T E MP OR A RY

P E R MA NENT

Shaving; chemical depilatories; tweezing; waxing; threading; sugaring

Electrolysis – requires electricity; Galvanic method; thermolysis method; blend method; laser; photo epilation or pulsed light

Most often used when hair covers large areas, such as women’s legs Substance that dissolves hair at skin level; usually cream paste or powder form Most common method of removing hair from small areas, such as from eyebrows, chin or mouth Beneficial procedure for temporarily removing hair from large and small areas; quick and easy

Draw in the guidelines for eyebrow shaping

Threading

Utilizes 100% cotton thread that is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin

Sugaring

Utilizes a paste made primarily of sugar applied to the skin in a rolling motion

Permanent Hair Removal

1

p ages 62 8 - 6 37

Uses electric current to damage cells of the papilla and disrupt hair growth; goal is to damage enough papilla cells to reduce the diameter of the hair that grows back or no hair growth at all

G A LVA N IC

THERMOLYSIS

BL E ND

L aser

Photo Epilation or Pulsed Light

Destroys the hair by

Short wave method;

Combination

Uses wavelengths of

Intense pulsed light

decomposing the

single needle into

of Galvanic and

light to penetrate and

beam creates burst of

papilla

follicle

Thermolysis

diminish or destroy

energy to destroy hair

hair bulbs

bulbs

2

3

4

5

6

7

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

15



R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Basic Waxing Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide basic skin care services, perform hair removal services and apply appropriate cosmetics to enhance a client’s appearance.

Preparation •• Disinfect/assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure; cut strips; warm wax

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3







•• Wash and sanitize hands; drape client







•• Examine area to be waxed; cleanse area to be waxed







•• Apply powder on area to be waxed







•• Test temperature of wax; obtain wax







•• Apply wax at a 45° angle in direction of hair growth







•• Apply removal strip; press down; pull skin taut; remove strip quickly in opposite direction







•• Apply pressure immediately; apply antiseptic







•• Repeat procedure







•• Apply and remove wax cleanser; apply soothing lotion







•• Tweeze







•• Show client results













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure

Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

39



Percentage = student score / highest possible score

346

TOTAL POINTS = %

UNIT 3 NAIL AND SKIN SERVICES

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THE

ST UDY

O F

SK IN

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.4 M AK EUP Chiaroscuro

p ages 6 3 8 - 6 4 0 Arrangement of lights and darks to visually contour the face

Facial Shapes

_________________ Oval _________________ Round _________________ Oblong

Pear _________________ Square _________________ Heart _________________ Diamond _________________

Color Theory

Tint

White added

Shade

Black added

Value

Lightness or darkness of a color

Intensity Tone

1

SFC_TSG_Ch15.indd 347

2

3

4

5

COOL COLORS

Color M COLORS WAR

Hue

Vibrancy of a color Warmth or coolness of a color

6

7

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15

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.4 M AKEUP Color Schemes

p ages 6 4 1; 64 4 - 6 5 1 Monochromatic: Same color with variations in value and intensity Analogous: 3 colors adjacent to each other on the color wheel Triadic: 3 colors in a triangular position of the color wheel Complementary: Colors across from each other on the color wheel Warm and Cool: Yellow or red/Blue Remember: Dark diminishes; light advances

Makeup Techniques and Products

348

Base

Makeup Corrections/Concealer: Reduces appearance of blemishes, discolorations, broken capillaries; available in cream, pot and stick formulations; light, medium and dark tones with yellowish base Foundation: Evens out skin color when correctly applied; creates smoother, more even skin texture; corrects unwanted skin tones (sallowness, ruddiness); to test, blend a small amount on client’s jaw line, correct color will “diseappear” on client’s skin; may be considered most important makeup product Contouring and Highlighting: Highlighting protruding bones can “bring out” features; shadowing the cavities or recessed areas adds depth to the face

Eyes

Eyebrows: Frame the eyes; balance is very important; necessary to shade or fill the brows to create most attractive shape Eyeliner: Defines and emphasizes the shape of the eyes Eyeshadow: Comes in many forms: creams, gel, powders, pencils or crayons; contours or exaggerates; highlights Mascara: Defines, lengthens and thickens the eyelashes; depth of color used may enhance the eye shadow color used Artificial Lashes: Not generally worn with day makeup; create a more dramatic effect; human hair lashes most natural looking

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1

2

3

4

5

6

7

4/19/10 3:57:15 PM

THE

ST UDY

O F

SK IN

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.4 M AK EUP Powder and Blush

Lips

p ages 6 52 - 65 5 Facial Powder: Designed to “set” other makeup products so they last longer without fading, streaking or rubbing off; colorless (translucent) powder may be worn with any foundation shade Cheek Blush: Used to add color to the face, especially to the cheek area; liquid cheek color products suitable for all skin types Lip Liner: Applied to the outer edge of the lips to define the shape; prevents lipstick from bleeding onto the skin around the lips Lip Color: Completes the balance of color; usually last to be applied; be cautious that the color you choose does not overpower amount of color you have applied to cheeks and eyes

Basic Guidelines for Lip Makeup

AN A LYZE

A PPLY

LI NE

S H APE

CO MPL ETE

Check size of mouth;

Apply foundation to

Use a lip liner (pencil

Correct imperfections

Fill with lip color

determine if mouth is

the lips to block out

or brush) to line;

too small or too large

natural lip line

natural tone; two or three shades darker than natural lip color

Lip Shapes

1

SFC_TSG_Ch15.indd 349

2

3

4

5

6

7

Full bottom lip

Thin lips

Cupid’s bow

Uneven lips

Full lips

Small mouth

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CHAP TER

15

sm a r tN OT ES 1 5.4 M AKEUP

p ages 6 5 5 - 6 5 8

Corrections for Facial Features Using a pencil, sketch in the proper technique to correct the corresponding facial feature.

WIDE NOSE

LONG NOSE/ PROMINENT CHIN

UNDEFINED CHEEKBONES

Dark along sides of

Contour tip of

Apply highlighter over top of

nose; thin line down

nose and chin

cheekbone; contour hollow under cheekbone

center of nose

RECEDING CHIN

POINTED CHIN

Highlight on

Soften with con-

and

touring product or

under chin

slightly

BROAD OR SQUARE JAW/ HIGH OR BROAD FOREHEAD

“DOUBLE” CHIN

Contour heavier area

Contour jaw line and forehead

darker foundation Brow Design and Placement of Lights and Darks

Placing deeper tones toward the inside corner (toward the nose) and extending the eyebrows beyond the inside corner of the eye make the eyes seem closer set than they are Placing the eyebrows farther out and using deeper tones toward the outside of the eyes creates the illusion of wide-set eyes

350

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1

2

3

4

5

6

7

4/19/10 3:57:17 PM

THE

ST UDY

O F

SK IN



R U B RIC

This rubric is a self-assessment tool designed to compare your skill to industry standards. Indicate your present level of performance by checking the appropriate box. See overview for instructions.

Basic Makeup Application Industry Standard – to meet entry-level proficiency, industry standards require that you: • Provide basic skin care services, perform hair removal services and apply appropriate cosmetics to enhance a client’s appearance.

Preparation •• Disinfect/assemble the essential products, implements/supplies and equipment for the procedure

Level 1

Level 2

Level 3













To Improve, I Need To:

Teacher Assessment

Procedure •• Wash and sanitize hands •• Prepare client (drape, including headband, and position chair); consult with client







•• Cleanse, tone and moisturize skin







•• Analyze skin, face, brows, eyes and lips







•• Groom brows if needed (brush and tweeze)







•• Select appropriate foundation color; apply concealer as needed; apply foundation







•• Shade brows (brush and fill in as needed); check brows for symmetry







•• Apply eyeshadow(s); apply eyeliner







•• Apply blush, if cream, liquid or gel; apply tinted or translucent powder







•• Apply blush if powder







•• Apply mascara







•• Apply lip liner; apply lip color







•• Check coverage, balance accuracy; remove draping













Completion •• Offer a prebook visit; recommend retail products; discard non-reusable materials, disinfect implements, arrange workstation in proper order and wash hands

Total = addition of all Teacher Assessment boxes

TOTAL POINTS = 45

Percentage = student score / highest possible score

%

S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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CHAP TER

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the challenge Now it’s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Salon Fundamentals Textbook. Check “got it” for all correct answers and “not yet” for all incorrect responses. Using the “Know Chart,” record all of your correct responses in the “I Know” column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the “I Need to Study” column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this Study Guide.

1.

The skin is the largest organ of the body. It and its layers make up the ____________________ system of the body.

2. Name the six basic functions of the skin. ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ 3.

The three main layers of the skin are the ________________, _______________ and the _________________.

4.

The layer of skin found only on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet is known as the stratum _______________.

5.

TRUE FALSE Deterioration of collagen and elastin fibers in the skin’s aging takes place in the dermis.

6. From a cosmetologist’s point of view, the surface of the skin falls into four basic types. They are ______________, ________________, ________________and _______________________. 7. Disorders and diseases of the skin are often accompanied by lesions, which are any abnormal changes in the structure of an organ or tissue. There are three main categories of lesions, two of which the cosmetologist needs to be able to recognize. These two categories are ______________________ and ________________________ lesions. 8. Can you name the six signs of infection that may be associated with a disorder or disease? _________________________ _________________________ __________________________ _________________________ _________________________ __________________________ 9.

TRUE FALSE Only a dermatologist or a medical doctor should diagnose and treat skin disorders and diseases.

10. Keeping the skin in good condition requires a minimum of four steps. These steps are ________________________, ________________________ , ________________________ and _________________________. 11. Massages and facial masks are additional treatments that can help keep your client’s skin in optimum condition. List six benefits derived from a facial massage. ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ 12. List three benefits that may be derived from a facial mask. ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ 13.

T  he two types of hair removal procedures are ___________________ and ___________________.

14. Most regulating agencies will not license a cosmetologist to perform ___________________ hair removal procedures without additional specialized training. 15. TRUE FALSE The effects of temporary hair removal can last anywhere from a few hours to several weeks, depending on the system used. 1.6. Most corrective makeup and contouring are done to achieve the illusion of the oval face. Can you name six other facial shapes? ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ ____________________________ 17.

Darker tones are used to shadow or contour areas and features you wish to diminish or __________________.

18. What is considered to be the most important makeup product because it creates the canvas on which other cosmetics appear? _______________

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know chart I KNOW:

I NEED TO STUDY:

1. integumentary 2. sensation, secretion, absorption, regulation, protection, excretion 3. epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous 4. lucidum 5. TRUE 6. dry, oily, normal, combination 7. primary, secondary 8. pain, swelling, redness, local fever, throbbing, discharge 9. TRUE 10. cleansing, toning, moisturizing, protecting 11. increases blood circulation; contracts muscles; stimulates glandular activity; strengthens weak muscle tissue; softens and improves texture of skin; calms and relaxes client

12. hydration, tighten pores, reduce oil 13. temporary, permanent 14. permanent 15. TRUE 16. round, oblong, pear-shaped, square, heart-shaped, diamond-shaped 17. minimize 18. foundation

TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. Discuss with a partner the most difficult skin disease for each of you to recognize and list your findings in the box to the left. With a partner discuss your daily skin care and makeup routines. List similarities and differences in the box to the left.

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SHOW YOU KNOW... Finally, it is time to show off your new invention at the annual convention. It is the first time you will have the opportunity to demonstrate the benefits of the ergonomic features and innovative design your new product for the skin has to offer. The coordinator of the convention has asked you to complete the informational card below to offer a profile of your product. Product Profile Product Name Chin Minimizer

Product Use Firm, tone chin area

Features: Comfortable strap, 100% cotton, machine Benefits: Takes years and pounds off your face; so

washable, hypo-allergenic

comfortable you can wear anywhere

Profile of Consumer Most Likely to Purchase this Product: Aging socialite

Suggested Retail Price of this Product: $49.95

KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 15, The Study of Skin. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build selfconfidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject.

KNOW

List the three main layers of the skin.

Describe the stratum

Comprehend

the epidermis.

sudoriferous glands help to prevent bacteria from entering the body.

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The stratum germinativum is the lowest level of the epidermis where skin cell growth occurs through mitosis or cell division.

germinativum layer of

Relate how the

Apply

The three main layers of the skin are the: 1. epidermis 2. dermis 3. subcutaneous

The sudoriferous glands help to prevent bacteria from entering the body by creating the acid mantle, which is a mixture of sweat and oil that keeps the surface of the skin slightly acidic.

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continued

Compare the difference

Analyze

A subjective symptom is one you feel and an objective symptom is one you see.

between a subjective and objective symptom.

Discuss the benefits a client can receive

Synthesize

from a professional facial service. Evaluate how brow design and placement of lights and darks can visually alter the position of the eyes on the face.

Evaluate

The benefits a client may receive from a professional facial service include relaxed muscles, soothed nerves, minor skin corrections, improved circulation and healthier looking skin.

Placing deeper tones toward the inside corners (or toward the nose), and extending the eyebrows beyond the inside corner of the eye can make the eyes seem closer-set than they are. Beginning the eyebrow farther out and using deeper tones toward the outside of the eyes create the illusion of wide-set eyes.



BRAIN CO ND IT IO NER

Multiple choice . Circle the correct answer .

1. Which of the following organs is considered to be the largest of the human body? a. liver b. brain c. stomach

d. skin

2. The skin has how many basic functions? a. 3 b. 5

d. 9

c. 6

3. Which of the following terms is NOT a function of the skin? a. sensation b. secretion c. absorption

d. lymph production

4. Functions of the skin include regulation of body temperature, respiration and: a. reproduction b. protection c. digestion

d. circulation

5. Which body system is made up of the skin and its layers? a. excretory b. respiratory c. sensation

d. integumentary

6. What is the technical name for the study of skin, including its structure, functions and disorders? a. pathology b. etiology c. anatomy d. dermatology 7. The dermis is also referred to as which of the following? a. cuticle b. epidermis c. true skin

d. scarf skin

8. Which of the following terms is the outermost layer of the skin? a. dermis b. epidermis c. stratum granulosum

d. stratum corneum

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9. In which layer of the epidermis does mitosis (cell division) or replacement of the skin take place? a. stratum lucidum b. stratum granulosum c. stratum corneum d. stratum germinativum 10. The conversion of living cells into dead protein cells is called: a. mitosis b. cell division c. keratinization

d. lucidum

11. Melanocytes start out in which of the following layers of the epidermis? a. stratum granulosum b. stratum germinativum c. stratum corneum

d. subcutaneous layer

12. Which layer of the skin is known as the epidermis? a. innermost b. third

d. outer

c. second

13. Which of the following skin layers does NOT contain blood vessels? a. cutis b. dermis c. corium

d. epidermis

14. Which of the following layers of cells is NOT part of the epidermis? a. stratum corneum b. stratum lucidum c. subcutaneous layer

d. stratum germinativum

15. Which of the following skin layers is the toughest and is composed of keratin cells? a. stratum lucidum b. stratum germinativum c. stratum granulosum d. stratum corneum 16. In which layer do the cells become more regularly shaped and look like tiny granules? a. stratum lucidum b. stratum granulosum c. stratum germinativum d. stratum corneum 17. The soles of the feet and the palms of the hand are the only places where which layer of the skin is found? a. stratum spinosum b. stratum germinativum c. stratum lucidum d. stratum corneum 18. What type of tissue makes up the dermis? a. muscular b. epithelial

c. connective

d. nerve

19. The effects of the skin’s aging process can be seen in the: a. epidermis b. dermis c. cuticle

d. scarf skin

20. What part of the skin is often referred to as “true skin”? a. stratum lucidum b. epidermis c. dermis

d. stratum germinativum

21. Which layer of the skin produces collagen protein and elastin fibers that help give the skin its elasticity and pliability? a. dermis b. epidermis c. stratum lucidum d. stratum granulosum 22. All of the following statements describe the cells in the stratum granulosum, EXCEPT: a. they become more regularly shaped b. they look like tiny granules c. they eventually replace cells that are shed d. they are called squamous cells 23. Sudoriferous glands produce which of the following? a. lymph b. oil c. sweat 24. What is a major function of the sudoriferous gland? a. give skin texture c. help to regulate body temperature

d. collagen

b. give skin a healthy color d. protect the skin’s elasticity

25. Which of the following glands regulate body temperature? a. eccrine b. sebaceous c. oil

d. ductless

26. The small openings of the sweat glands in the skin are called: a. follicles b. pores c. glands

d. ducts

27. The sudoriferous glands function to do all of the following EXCEPT: a. produce oil b. help regulate body temperature c. excrete waste d. help to maintain the proper pH of the skin 28. All of the following are examples of duct glands EXCEPT: a. eccrine b. endocrine c. sebaceous 356

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d. sudoriforous

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29. The papillary canal takes oil (sebum) to the: a. blood vessels b. surface of the skin

c. nerves

30. The acid mantle is a mixture of all of the following EXCEPT: a. sebum b. oil c. toner

d. keratin d. sweat

31. Which of the following is NOT true about the acid mantle? a. helps prevent chapping b. helps prevent entry of dirt particles c. provides a protective cushion for the skin d. keeps skin smooth 32. Most skin problems are caused by the: a. sudoriferous glands b. eccrine glands

c. sebaceous glands

d. arrector pili muscles

33. What part of the skin is composed of fatty and loose connective tissue? a. subcutaneous layer b. dermis c. acid mantle

d. epidermis

34. Which of the following structures is a protective cushion for the skin? a. subcutaneous tissue b. epidermis c. cuticle

d. dermis

35. The pH of the acid mantle for most people is: a. 2.5 to 3.5 b. 4.5 to 5.5

d. 7.5 to 8.5

36.

c. 7

The subcutaneous layer contains all of the following EXCEPT: a. stratum corneum b. the glandular parts of some sudoriferous glands c. large blood vessels that transport nourishment to the skin and nerves d. some sense organs for touch, pressure and temperature

37. The subcutaneous tissue includes all of the following functions EXCEPT: a. body insulation b. support of delicate structures, such as blood vessels c. protein digestion d. protective cushioning for the skin 38. Which of the following statements is NOT true about dark skin? a. contains more melanocytes b. contains more melanin c. better barrier to damaging rays d. can be damaged by overexposure to UV rays 39. Which of the following statements is true of melanin? a. contains sebum b. tans the skin c. may harm the skin

d. produces perspiration

40. Which type of skin is NOT prone to acne? a. dry b. oily

c. normal

d. combination

41. The least common skin type is: a. oily b. dry

c. normal

d. combination

42. The most common skin type is: a. dry b. oily

c. normal

d. combination

43. A disease that spreads by personal contact is known as: a. systemic b. congenital c. contagious

d. occupational

44. The term used to identify conditions that are brief and severe is known as: a. acute b. chronic c. objective

d. subjective

45. Chronic is the term used to identify conditions that are: a. brief and severe b. frequent and habitual c. influenced by weather

d. visible

46. What is the technical term for the study of the cause of disease? a. etiology b. pathology c. anatomy

d. dermatology

47. Anticipating the most probable course a disease may follow is known as: a. diagnosis b. prognosis c. recognition

d. analysis

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48. Abnormal changes in the structure of organs or tissues are called primary and secondary: a. fissures b. infections c. lesions d. papules 49. Which of the following terms is used for symptoms that are visible? a. seasonal b. subjective c. objective

d. visible

50. Which of the following symptoms is NOT considered subjective? a. itching b. inflammation c. burning

d. pain

51. A freckle is a type of: a. chloasma

d. vitiligo

b. macule

c. leukoderma

52. Herpes simplex is the technical name for which of the following conditions? a. fever blister b. eczema c. psoriasis

d. acne

53. Which of the following lesions is characterized by a solid formation above the skin, often caused by an insect bite or allergic reaction? a. pustules b. macules c. papules d. wheals 54. Treatment for secondary skin lesions needs to be performed by a medical doctor or which of the following? a. dermatologist b. cosmetologist c. radiologist d. esthetician 55. A cyst is defined by which of the following descriptions? a. oozing sore b. wheal lesions c. crack in the skin

d. abnormal membranous sac

56. Which of the following secondary lesions are shedding dead cells of the uppermost layer of the epidermis? a. scales b. crusts c. excoriations d. fissures 57. A secondary lesion appearing as round, dry patches of skin covered with rough, silvery scales is called: a. eczema b. psoriasis c. herpes simplex d. acne 58. Which of the following secondary lesions are cracks in the skin? a. wheals b. fissures c. tumors

d. crusts

59. The dried remains of an oozing sore are known as: a. scales b. crusts

d. excoriations

c. scars

60. The lesion found following the healing of an injury is called a: a. mole b. scale c. scar

d. fissure

61. All of the following secondary skin lesions are considered hypertrophies (new growth) EXCEPTa: a. callus b. verruca c. naevus d. skin tag 62. Which of the following describes a thickening of the epidermis from pressure and friction applied to the skin? a. ulcer b. callus c. verruca d. skin tag 63. A congenital failure of the skin to form melanin pigment is known as: a. lentigines b. chloasma c. vitiligo

d. albinism

64. What is another name for a stain in the skin caused by the dilation of the small blood vessels which is also known as a birthmark? a. scar b. callus c. verruca d. naevus 65. Which term is used to describe any hyperpigmentation caused by overactivity of the melanocytes in the epidermis? a. albinism b. leukoderma c. vitiligo d. melanoderma 66. Masses of sebum trapped in the hair follicle are known as comedones or which of the following? a. blackheads b. acne c. rosacea d. steatoma 67. Accumulations of hardened sebum beneath the skin are called whiteheads or: a. milia b. comedones c. acne

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68. A condition characterized by dry, scaly skin caused by a decreased production of sebum is called: a. seborrhea b. steatoma c. asteatosis d. rosacea 69. Which disorder is caused by excessive secretion of the sebaceous glands? a. seborrhea b. bromidrosis c. asteatosis

d. milia

70. Which of the following is the term used for foul-smelling perspiration? a. anhidrosis b. bromidrosis c. hyperhidrosis

d. psoriasis

71. The lack of perspiration caused by fever or disease is known as: a. osmidrosis b. bromidrosis c. anhidrosis

d. hyperhidrosis

72. What sebaceous gland disorder appears in the dermis and epidermis and is caused by an acute bacterial infection? a. boils b. moles c. skin tags d. scars 73. Which of the following terms is NOT a disorder of the sudoriferous glands? a. seborrhea b. anhidrosis c. hyperhidrosis

d. miliaria rubra

74. Which of the following massage movements involves a light, gentle stroking or circular motion? a. petrissage b. effleurage c. tapotement d. vibration 75. All of the following results are benefits of massage EXCEPT: a. increasing circulation of blood supply to skin b. stimulating glandular activity of skin c. improving texture of skin d. weakening muscle tissue 76. Which of the following areas is a cosmetologist NOT licensed to massage? a. feet b. face c. hands

d. lower back

77. Which of the following is NOT one of the five basic movements of massage? a. effleurage b. petrissage c. tapotement

d. cleansing

78. A light or heavy kneading, rolling and squeezing of the muscles is known as which of the following massage movements? a. effleurage b. tapotement c. petrissage d. vibration 79. Which of the following massage movements is a light tapping or slapping movement applied with the fingertips? a. effleurage b. tapotement c. petrissage d. vibration 80. Which of the following massage manipulations is a circular or wringing movement usually carried out with the fingertips or palms of the hands? a. friction b. vibration c. petrissage d. tapotement 81. Massage should NOT be performed when: a. vitiligo is present b. abrasions are present

c. fillings are present

d. tension is present

82. Which of the following massage movements should NOT be used if the client needs soothing? a. gliding b. stroking c. effleurage d. tapotement 83. Which of the following is NOT a type of facial mask? a. cream b. clay c. paraffin

d. astringent

84. All of the following statements are true about paraffin masks EXCEPT: a. heated then applied b. applied over a layer of gauze c. made from clay, sand, zinc oxide or mud d. act to draw oil and perspiration to the top layer of skin 85. Electricity is required for which of the following procedures? a. permanent hair removal b. removing dirt and oil c. temporary hair removal d. preventing growth of bacteria 86. Which of the following permanent hair removal methods uses wavelengths of light to penetrate and diminish or destroy hair bulbs?: a. laser b. galvanic electrolysis c. waxing d. chemical depilatory

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87. Most corrective makeup and contouring techniques are done to help the face to appear as what shape? a. round b. square c. diamond d. oval 88. What face shape is characterized by a narrow forehead and jaw area with predominant width in the cheekbone area? a. square b. round c. oval d. diamond 89. Hue is another term for which of the following terms? a. shade b. tint c. color

d. tone

90. Which of the following products is used to complete the balance of color in makeup application? a. foundation b. blush c. lipstick d. eyeliner

final review

Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines following the answers, jot down topics that you still need to review.

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23.

page 604

45.

page 608



2.

page 601

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page 604

46.

page 608



3.

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page 609



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page 609



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page 609



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page 605

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page 609



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page 609



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page 602

31.

pages 604, 605

53.

page 610

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page 602

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page 605

54.

page 610

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page 602

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page 605

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page 610

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page 602

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page 605

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page 610

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page 602

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page 605

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page 610

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page 602

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page 605

58.

page 611

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page 605

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page 611

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page 603

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page 606

60.

page 611

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page 603

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page 606

61.

page 611

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page 603

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page 611

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page 603

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page 607

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page 612

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page 603

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page 612

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page 603

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page 613

75.

page 615

83.

page 617

68.

page 613

76.

page 615

84.

page 617

69.

page 613

77.

pages 615, 616

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page 636

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page 616

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88.

page 640

73.

pages 613, 614

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page 616

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page 640

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page 653

notes to myself

Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable.

My reflections about The Study of Skin:

Lessons learned • The skin is the largest organ of the body and performs six specific functions. • Cleansing, toning, moisturizing and protecting are the four basic steps of proper skin care. • Salon hair removal services include temporary methods — shaving, depilatories, tweezing and waxing — and permanent methods, known as electrolysis, which use an electric current to inhibit hair growth. • Makeup design and application combine principles of art and science to enhance desirable features, balance uneven proportions and diminish facial flaws. 1

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S ALON

GLOSSARY A

Abductor (ab-DUK-tor) – Muscles that separate the fingers Abraded hair – The technical term for broken hair, or excessive stretching or traction of the hair Absorption – The skin’s ability to permit substances like water and oxygen to pass through its tissues AC current – Alternating current; electrons flow first in one direction and then in the other Accountant – A financial advisor Acid – Water-based solution measuring more positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions; measures less than 7 on the pH scale Acid-balanced rinse – Used to close the cuticle after a color service to prevent the color from fading Acid-balanced shampoo – Non-stripping; used to cleanse hair types, especially lightened, color-treated or dry, brittle hair Acid mantle – A layer of oil and sweat found in the sebaceous glands; keeps the skin smooth, prevents dirt and grime from entering the outer layer of the epidermis and also prevents the skin from drying or chapping; protects the cuticle or outer covering of the hair fiber and maintains the acid balance of hair and skin Acid rinse – Used to remove soap scum Acid waves – A method of perming using thioglycolic derivative called glycerol monothioglycolate without ammonia; a more gentle perming method because the chemicals penetrate the hair slowly; to speed the process heat is added by placing a plastic cap on the client’s head and placing her under a pre-heated dryer; pH range of 6.9 to 7.2 Acne (AK-nee) – A chronic inflammatory disorder of the sebaceous glands; occurs most often on the face, back and chest Acrylic brush – Builds the acrylic nail; may be flat, oval or rounded in shape and is made from natural hair Activator – Booster used to increase the speed of the oxidation process Active bacteria – The stage at which bacteria (germs) grow and reproduce rapidly Acute – A term used to identify conditions that are brief and severe ADA – Americans with Disabilities Act Adductor (Ah-DUK-tor) – Muscles that draw the fingers together Adhesive – A tacky (sticky) substance that bonds a plastic tip to a natural nail; specially formulated for the nail industry Advertising – A means of telling the public about your salon, the services you perform, the quality of work you produce and any other reasons that clients should patronize your salon Agnails (hangnails) – Split cuticles; loose skin partially separated from the cuticle Afferent nerves – Also called sensory nerves; carry messages to the brain and spinal cord AIDS – Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome – A disease caused by HIV (Human Immunodeficiency Virus); HIV interferes with the body’s natural immune system and causes the immune system to break down

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Airbrushing – The use of an airbrush gun and airbrush paints to decorate the nails Air forming – Refers to the process of drying the hair and styling it simultaneously to create a new form. Also called blow drying Air forming brush (7 or 9-row) – A brush that smooths wavy or curly textures; adds directional emphasis when air forming Albinism (AL-bin-izm) – A congenital failure of the skin to produce melanin pigment Albino – A person lacking pigmentation in the hair and skin Alkaline – Water-based solution measuring more negative hydroxide ions than positive hydrogen ions; measures higher than 7 on the pH scale Alkaline perm – Perm wave processed with heat and thioglycolate Alkaline waves – Today’s highly improved cold waves; formulated with thioglycolic acid and its derivatives and ammonia, which creates a compound called ammonium thioglycolate; pH of approximately 8.0 to 9.5 Allergy – A sensitivity that may develop from contact with normally harmless substances; symptoms of an allergy may include itching, redness, swelling and/or blisters All-purpose comb – Detangles and combs the hair after the shampoo service All-purpose shampoo – Used to cleanse the hair without correcting any special condition Alopecia – Excessive hair loss Alopecia areata – Sudden loss of hair in round or irregular patches without display of an inflamed scalp Alternation – Design principle; a pattern in which an element changes from one to another repeatedly Amines – Ingredient found in conditioners; makes hair easier to comb and control static Amino acid – Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen Ammonium hydroxide – An ingredient found in alkaline waves to shorten the processing time Ammonium thioglycolate – A chemical reducing agent that causes the hair to soften and swell; also called thio relaxers Amp – A unit of electric strength Anabolism (ah-NAB-oh-lizm) – The process of building up larger molecules from smaller ones during metabolism Anagen – The active or growing stage of hair, during which time each hair bulb has an attached root sheath Analogous color – Color scheme using three colors that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel Anaphoresis – Negative pole of Galvanic Current that produces an alkaline effect Anatomy – The study of the organs and systems of the body Androgenetic alopecia – Hair loss caused by a combination of heredity, hormones and age that causes progressive shrinking or miniaturization of certain scalp follicles Angles – Formed at the point where two lines meet; used in haircutting to create the shape and form of the haircut S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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G LOSS ARY

Angular artery – Supplies the sides of the nose Anhidrosis (an-heye-DROH-sis) – A lack of perspiration caused by fever or disease; requires medical attention Anode – A positively charged electrode; usually red in color or displays a large “P” or a positive sign (+) Anterior (an-TER-e-er) – In front of Anterior auricular – Artery that supplies the anterior part of the ear Anterior dilatator naris – One of the four muscles of the nose; controls contraction and expansion of the nostrils Anti-dandruff shampoo – Used to control dandruff and other scalp conditions Antiseptic – Liquid or foam-based products used to reduce bacteria, viruses and fungus on skin Aponeurosis (ap-o-noo-ROH-sis) – A tendon that connects the frontalis and the occipitalis muscles in the epicranium Application – A form used to submit information to an employer Apprentice – A salon stylist in training; also called an assistant

Autonomic (aw-to-NOM-ik) nervous system – Responsible for all involuntary body functions Axons (AK-sonz) – Long threadlike fibers that extend from nerve cells B

Bacilli (ba-SIL-i) – The most common form of bacterial cells; bar or rod-shaped cells that can produce a variety of diseases including tetanus, bacterial influenza, typhoid fever, tuberculosis and diphtheria Backbrushing – A technique used to add volume to a hairstyle with a brush by systematically pushing the shorter lengths of the hair toward the base to create a cushion effect Backcombing – The use of a comb to add volume to a hairstyle and further connect the shapes within a set, while adding longevity to the style Back-wash systems – A free-standing sink for shampooing hair Bacteria – One-celled microorganisms; sometimes called germs or microbes

Aromatherapy – The combination of our sense of smell and the use of plant extracts and their healing abilities

Bactericidal – Disinfectant designed to kill bacteria

Arrector pili muscle – Comes from cells in the dermis that attach to the follicle just below the sebaceous gland. This is the muscle that causes the hair to stand on end when a person is scared or cold

Balance – The state of equilibrium existing between contrasting, opposite or interacting elements

Arteries – Tubular, elastic, thick-walled branching vessels that carry pure blood from the heart through the body Artificial lashes – Eyelashes made from human hair or synthetic material applied to one’s own lashes or in place of them for enhancement Artificial nail care – The use of various man-made materials and techniques to enhance the appearance of natural nails Assets – All properties owned Asteatosis (as-tee-ah-TOH-sis) – Condition of dry, scaly skin with reduced sebum production Asymmetrical balance – Created when weight is positioned unequally from a center axis Asymptomatic – Condition that allows a person to carry diseaseproducing bacteria without symptoms Atom – The smallest complete unit of an element

Bacteriology – The study of bacteria

Bargain buyer – Someone interested in saving money at all costs and not as interested in quality of products as price Base (retouch) – Color application used for a retouch; color or lightener is applied to the new growth only to match the existing color Base coat – Colorless polish that evens out nail plate; holds nail color to nail; prevents pigments from penetrating nail plate Base size – The diameter and length of tool used; base size (width) is measured according to the diameter of the roller, which is the outside measurement across the end of the roller Base size – The area between two partings for an individual perm rod Base texturizing – Performed between the scalp up to 1” (2.5 cm) away from the scalp; creates expansion and fullness Base-to-ends technique – Hair color application technique used when you want to add tone to or darken the existing color; also known as a virgin darker technique

Atomic number – The number of protons in the nucleus of an atom

Battery – A source of electrical current with a positive and negative terminal; produces direct current only

Attitude – The specific and identifiable emotion and/or reaction one experiences and projects in dealing with the demands of life

Belly – The term applied to the midsection of the muscle, between the two attached sections

Auricle – Also called atrium; upper right and left chambers of the heart

Bicep (BI-cep) – The primary muscle in the front of the upper arm; this muscle raises the forearm, bends the elbow and turns the palm of the hand down

Auricularis (aw-rik-ya-LA-ris) anterior – Muscle located in front of the ear Auricularis (aw-rik-ya-LA-ris) posterior – Muscle located behind the ear Auricularis (ae-rik-ya-LA-ris) superior – Muscle located behind the ear Auriculo temporal (aw-RIK-u-lo TEM-po-ral) – Nerve that extends to the ear and to the area from the top of the head to the temple 364

Block buffer – Implement used to smooth surface of the nail Blood – The sticky, salty fluid that circulates through the body bringing nourishment and oxygen to all body parts and carrying toxins and waste products to the liver and kidneys to be eliminated Bloodborne pathogens – Disease-causing bacteria or viruses that are carried through the blood or body fluids

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Bloodborne Pathogen Standards – Regulations requiring the use of an EPA-registered disinfectant with an efficacy against HIV and HBV or tuberculocidal. This requirement applies to implements that accidentally come into contact with blood or body fluids Blood vessels – Any vessels through which blood circulates through the body Blotting – Removes excess water before the neutralizing solution is applied in order to prevent a weak curl that relaxes prematurely Blow dryer – An implement used to air form wet hair while using brushes, combs and your fingers to create temporary direction and texture changes Blue nails – Blue color in skin under nails; caused by systemic problems of the heart, poor circulation or injury Blush – Makeup that adds color or contour to the cheeks Bobby pins – Implements used to secure hair in place for finished style, especially in long hair designs Body-building conditioner – Used to displace excess moisture, providing more body to the hair; made from protein

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Buccinator (BUK-si-na-ter) – Muscle located between the jaws and cheek; responsible for compressing the cheek to release air outwardly, as in blowing Bulla – Lesions, like vesicles, but larger; found above and below the skin, they contain a clear watery fluid Bursitis – An inflammation of the fluid-filled sac (bursa) that lies between a tendon and skin or a tendon and bone Business card – A card listing vital information about salon and employees used to promote both C

Calibrated – Standardized and measured adjustments used to regulate sterilization equipment Callus – Sometimes called hyperkeratosis or keratoma; thickening of the epidermis, which occurs from pressure and friction applied to the skin Calories – Unit measuring energy found in food

Body language – Nonverbal communication in which messages are exchanged without speaking

Caninus (kay-NEYE-nus) – (also known as the Levator Angulioris) Muscle located above the corners of the mouth; raises the angle of the mouth, as in snarling

Body shapes – The height and bone structure of the body often referred to as tall and lanky, average and short and sturdy

Canities (ka-NEESH-eez) – Refers to the grayness or whiteness of the hair

Bonding – The attachment of additional hair fiber to a client’s own hair with a special adhesive

Canvas blocks – Canvas-covered wig forms that hold wig while services are being performed

Bone – The hardest structure of the body with a composition that is 2/3 mineral matter and 1/3 organic matter

Capillaries – Small vessels that take nutrients and oxygen

Bookend technique – An end paper wrapping technique that uses one end paper folded in half; used to control sections of hair when a shorter rod length is selected or to wrap sections of very short hair

Cap method – A hair coloring technique in which selected hair strands are pulled through perforated holes in a rubber coloring cap with a crochet hook

Boric Acid – An ingredient used in eye washes, mouthwashes and powders because of its bactericidal and fungicidal properties Braid – A switch that has three swatches of hair braided together, often with a thin wire running through it Brain – Organ that controls all three subsystems of the nervous system; referred to as the command center; weighs between 44 and 48 ounces Bricklay perm pattern – Positions tools in a staggered configuration; compared to the way a bricklayer arranges the bricks in a building Broad spectrum – Group of disinfectants that kill bacteria, viruses, fungi, pseudomonas; formerly known as hospital grade or level Bromidrosis (broh-mih-DROH-sis) – A foul-smelling perspiration; also called osmidrosis Brow pencil/powder – Makeup used to fill in or correct the shape of eyebrow Bruised nails – Dark purplish discoloration under the nail caused by trauma to nail, environmental problem, blood trapped under nails or hemorrhage of small capillaries Brush cleaner – A solution that removes any residual nail enhancement product from the bristles of a sable brush Buccal Nerve – Nerve that extends to the muscles of the mouth

Capilli – The technical term for the hair on the head

Cap wig – Consists of an elasticized mesh-fiber base to which the hair fiber is attached Capless wig – Consists of rows of hair wefts sewn to strips of elastic Carbohydrates – Energy nutrient found in food; carbohydrates make up 50% of RDA guidelines Carbon – Element found in everything that is living or was once living Carbuncles (KAR-bun-kels) – Larger than furuncles, appear above and below the skin and are caused by acute bacterial infection of several adjoining hair follicles Cardiac muscle – The muscle of the heart itself; the only muscle of its type in the human body Cardiovascular or blood-vascular system – Responsible for the circulation of blood, includes the heart, arteries, veins and capillaries Carpal tunnel – A tunnel in the wrist, surrounded by bone and tissue Carpal tunnel syndrome – A condition caused by tendonitis in which the tendons swell and the nerve in the tunnel gets pinched, making the hand numb and weak Carpals – Eight small bones held together by ligaments to form the wrist or carpus Carrier – A person or thing that carries or transmits a disease

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Cascade – A hairpiece worn to create bulk or special effects; consists of long hair fiber attached to an oblong-shaped dome base

Chiaroscuro – An arrangement of light and dark; lighter colors stand out and darker colors recede

Cash value – Total value of assets owned

Chignon – A fairly long, bulky segment of looped hair, usually sewn to a wire base or tied into a strong cord

Cash value items – Best assets such as IRA, certificates of deposit, savings bonds Casual style – Clients who like comfortable, practical clothes and styles Catabolism (kah-TAB-oh-lizm) – The process of breaking down larger molecules or substances into smaller ones during metabolism Cataphoresis – Positive pole of electric current that produces an acidic current Catagen – A brief transitional stage of hair growth, when all cell division stops Cathode – A negatively charged electrode; usually black in color or displays a large “N” or a negative sign (-) Cell membrane – The outer surface of the cell Cells – The basic units of living matter (life) Central nervous system – Also called the cerebrospinal nervous system; composed of the brain and spinal cord; responsible for all voluntary body action Centrosome – The part of the cell that affects cell reproduction Cerebellum (ser-e-BEL-um) – Area of the brain responsible for the control and coordination of muscle movement, located in the occipital area directly below the cerebrum

Chin strap – Holds wig in place on client’s head during services Chloasma (kloh-AZ-mah) – A group of brownish macules (nonelevated spots) occurring in one place; commonly called liver spots; often occurs on the hands and face Chronic – A term used to identify conditions that are frequent and habitual Cilia (SIL-ee-a) – Also called flagella (flah-JEL-ah); hair like projections that propel bacterial movement Circulatory or vascular system – Controls the circulation of blood and lymph through the body Circuit – Flow of electrons along a path called a conductor Circuit breaker – Reusable device that breaks the flow of current when an overload occurs Clarifying shampoo – used to remove residue such as product build-up Classic style – Clients who are very coordinated in their wardrobe; they wear classic colors, such as navy, black, white, cream, beige, brown and gray Clavicle (KLAV-i-kel) – The bone that forms the area from the throat to the shoulder

Cerebrospinal nervous system – Also called the central nervous system; composed of the brain and spinal cord; the central nervous system is responsible for all voluntary body action

Cleanser – Skin care product used to remove dirt, makeup and impurities

Cerebrum (se-RE-bum) – Area of the brain responsible for mental activity, located in the upper, front portion of the cranium

Clippers – Implement used to create precise lines or soft, broom-like effect; various blade attachments (guards) allow the hair to be cut at various distances from the scalp

Cervical (SUR-vi-kal) cutaneous (ku-TA-ne-us) nerve –Extends into the side and front of the neck to the breastbone Cervical nerve – Extends to the muscles on the side of the neck Cervical vertebrae (SUR-vi-kel VURT-e-bray) – The seven bones that form the top part of the spinal column Chemical bond – Bond involving the sharing of electrons of two or more atoms Chemical change – A change in a substance that creates a new substance with chemical characteristics different from those of the original substance Chemical depilatory – A method of hair removal in the form of a cream, paste or powder; the main ingredient is a thioglycolic acid derivative, with an alkaline pH, that chemically softens and degrades the protein structure of the hair Chemical relaxing – Involves two major phases: the chemical phase, which is application of the straightening product, and the physical phase, which is smoothing the hair, rinsing the product from the hair and applying neutralizer or neutralizing shampoo (also known as fixative or stabilizer)

Clientele – Client base developed and maintained by a cosmetologist

Clipper-over-comb – A cutting technique in which the hair is directed up and held in position with the comb; clipper is positioned on top of the comb, which can be positioned horizontally, vertically or diagonally Closed circuit – A path on which electrons leave a source and operate an appliance Cloth cape – Used for dry styling or dry haircutting services Cocci (KOK-si) – Spherical cells that appear singularly or in groups Code of Professional Ethics – A system of codes designed to protect the public and guarantee that they are treated honestly and fairly Cold waves – Machineless method of perming hair; the hair is wrapped on rods while a waving lotion (thioglycolic acid or its derivatives) processes the hair without heat Color – The visual perception of the reflection of light; if white light (sunlight or light from a light bulb) passes through a prism, the wavelengths are separated and become visible to the eye as color

Chemical texturizing – The process of using physical and chemical actions to permanently change the texture of hair

Color crayons and mascaras – Come in a variety of colors and are used for a number of effects ranging from blending in the regrowth to creating fun, colorful designs

Chemistry – The scientific study of matter and the physical and chemical changes of matter

Color mousses/gels – Come in a variety of colors and are used to brighten the existing color, tone gray hair and create dramatic effects

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Color psychology – The emotional effects of color; many designers consider color to be the most powerful design element, since it has both an esthetic and emotional value Color removers – Products used to remove artificial pigment from the hair Color rinse – Used to add temporary color to the hair, which lasts from shampoo to shampoo Color shampoo – Used to enhance color-treated hair and tone noncolor-treated hair temporarily; available in a variety of colors Color wheel – A tool in which the twelve colors (three primary, three secondary and six tertiary) are positioned in a circle, allowing any mixed color to be described in relation to the primary colors Comb control – The use of various comb sizes and shapes to control the hair while cutting Combination equipment – Generates heat and produces a flow of air (for example, hooded dryers, blow dryers and blow combs) Combination form – Two or more haircut forms in any combination Combination skin – Recognized by the shiny “T” zone (forehead, nose and chin), and the presence at the same time of a noticeable dryness in the cheek, jaw line and hairline areas; blackheads and enlarged pores are often evident on the nose and chin

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Conditioner – Used to fortify damaged hair and help prevent further damage Conditioning shampoo – Used to improve the tensile strength and porosity of the hair Conductor – A material that allows electricity to flow through it easily Congenital – Occurring at or before birth Conical rollers – Cone–shaped tool used to create progression of curl diameter from narrow end of base toward wide end; used in curvature-shape roller setting Connective tissue – Supports, protects and holds the body together Consultation – A complete profile of the client resulting in a discussion between stylist and client with the goal of creating the best hairstyle for the client Contagious disease – Communicable by contact; also known as an infectious or communicable disease Contaminated – Not free from dirt, oil or microbes Contour tips – Applying darker contour can narrow a wide jaw; applying lighter cosmetic shades along the hairline can broaden narrow foreheads Contouring – Outlining of a figure

Comedones (KOM-e-donz) – Also called black heads; masses of sebum (oil) trapped in the hair follicles

Contrast – A pattern in which an element has a relationship of opposites that create interest, variety and excitement

Commission – A percentage of the dollar income the individual stylist creates by performing cosmetology services

Converter – Machine that changes direct current to alternating current

Common carotid (kah-ROT-id) arteries – Located on either side of the neck; split into the internal carotid artery (ICA) and external carotid artery (ECA)

Convex lines – Lines that curve outward, like the outside of a sphere

Communicable disease – Contagious infection that can be transmitted from one person to another, usually through touch or through the air

Cool colors – Violet, blue and green ranges; these colors produce a calming effect by lowering the blood pressure and pulse rate and, in a sense, provide a “cooling off” effect

Communication – An exchange of thoughts and information by conversation or writing

Corporation – A legal entity, separate from its shareholders, that is formed under legal guidelines

Complementary colors – Colors found opposite one another on the color wheel; in hair color they neutralize or cancel out one another when they are mixed together; used to neutralize unwanted tones

Corrugations (kor-u-GA-shuns) – Horizontal ridges across the nail; caused by injury, systemic conditions

Compound – Molecule formed when two or more different atoms combine chemically Compound dyes – Combination of metallic and vegetable dyes; metallic salts are added to vegetable dyes to create a wider range of colors and a longer lasting color than achieved with vegetable dyes alone Compress – Squeeze together; make smaller by pressure Concave lines – Lines that curve inward, like the inside of a sphere Concave profile – A concave profile has an inward curve, which is most often the result of a dominant, protruding forehead and chin or a small nose Concave rods – Produce a smaller, tighter curl in the center Concealer – Makeup used to eliminate discolorations on the skin and reduce the appearance of blemishes Concentrated solution – Solution that contains a large quantity of the solute in comparison to the quantity of solvent

Convex profile – A convex profile has a strong outward curvature resulting from either a protruding nose or a sloping forehead or chin

Corrugator (KOR-e-gat-er) – Muscle located between the eyebrows; controls the eyebrows, drawing them in and downward Cortex – The inside of the second layer of the hair fiber (gives hair most of its pigment and strength [elasticity] ) Cosmetology – The art and science of beauty care Cover letter – Introduces you to the salon by providing a brief description of your qualities and why you would like to work at the salon Cowlick – Usually found in straight or wavy hair at the front hairline or crown; represented by strong growth pattern that moves to the right or left Cranium – Consists of eight bones that form the top, sides and back of the head; encloses and protects the brain and primary sensory organs Cream hair colors – Applied with a bowl and brush technique; generally mixed with a cream developer; have conditioners and thickening agents S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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Cream rinse – Used to soften, add shine and smoothness to the hair while making the hair tangle-free for ease in combing Crimping irons – Consist of two irons that have an angular or serrated pattern Croquignole wrap – A method of wrapping hair around a perm tool in which the hair is wrapped from the ends up to the scalp Crosschecking – A technique used to check a haircut for balance and accuracy Crown – The area of the head above the occipital bone Crusts – Dried masses that are the remains of an oozing sore; the scab on a sore is an example of a crust Curl activator – Product that helps new curl configurations retain their shape and provides moisture; applied frequently after every shampoo Curl base – The area between partings within a shape or the section of hair on which the roller, thermal iron or round brush is placed Curl booster – Product that helps hair assume new shape of rod when wrapping hair in perm rods; milder form of thio

Cutting lotion – A product used to control hair while cutting Cylindrical rollers – A tool to create uniform curl formation/ diameter across width of base; used in straight-shape roller setting Cytoplasm (SI-to-plazm) – The production department of the cell, where most of the cell’s activities take place D

Dandruff – Pityriasis; overabundance of epithelial cells that have accumulated on the scalp or fallen to the shoulders Dappen dish – Holds monomer and polymer separately Darts – Alterations made vertically to remove width in the nape area (from ear to ear) of a wig DC current – Direct current; electrons move at an even rate and flow in one direction Degrees of decolorization – The stages or degrees the hair goes through as the melanin changes; dark hair goes through 10 levels, from black to palest yellow

Curl circle – The hair that is positioned around the roller, thermal iron or round brush

Dehydrant – A solution that allows better adhesion of nail enhancements; reduces the amount of moisture in the nail when brushed over the nail plate

Curl diffusion – A technique used to loosen or relax tightly curled hair patterns by approximately 50% of their natural shape

Deltoid (DEL-toid) – Muscle that covers the shoulder; triangularshaped muscle that lifts the arm or turns it

Curl rearranger – Reduces peptide bonds so hair can relax and become straight; thio-based product

Demi-permanent colors – Contain very little or no ammonia and are designed to deposit color or add tone to the hair; use a low volume peroxide to develop the color molecules and aid in the color processing; not designed to lift or lighten the existing hair color and generally last 4-6 weeks

Curl reforming – Also known as soft curls, reformation curls or, in technical terms, a double-process perm service; a chemical service designed to change tightly curled hair to curly or wavy hair; the hair is first relaxed to reduce the curl pattern and then permed to create a new curl pattern

Dendrites (DEN-dritz) – Short nerve fibers responsible for sending messages in the form of nerve impulses

Curl segment – Consists of individual pieces of curly hair that vary in bulk depending on the desired effect

Density – The number of active hair follicles per square inch on the scalp

Curl stem – The hair between the scalp and the first turn of the hair around the roller, thermal iron and round brush; the stem determines the amount of movement of the section of hair

Depilatories – Chemical substances that dissolve the hair at skin level; cream, paste or powder form

Cushion brush – A brush used to relax sets, also for backbrushing, dry molds, styles or the refinement of the form

Depressor septi – One of the four muscles located inside the nose, controls contraction and expansion of the nostrils

Cushion-end-paper technique – Incorporates several end papers; known as cushion wrapping because it provides an extra layer of protection between the revolutions of hair wrapped around the rod Customized shampoo – Used to moisturize and build body Cuticle – The outer covering of the hair shaft; the loose and pliable skin around the nail Cuticle cream or oil – Moisturizer used to soften cuticle skin, moisturizes brittle nails Cuticle nipper – Cutting implement used to trim hangnails Cuticle pusher – Implement used to push cuticles Cuticle remover cream – Low percent hydrogen peroxide, sodium or potassium hydroxide used to loosen dead skin Cuticle scale – The outer covering of the hair fiber Cutting comb – Parts and distributes the hair; primary comb for cutting and overcomb techniques

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Depressor (de-PRES-er) – Draws down or depresses

Dermatitis (dur-mah-TYE-tis) – An inflammatory disorder of the skin Dermatitis venenata (VEN-eh-nay-tah) – An allergic reaction to certain cosmetics or chemicals; sometimes referred to as contact dermatitis Dermatology – Study of the skin, its structure, functions, diseases and treatment Dermis – The underlying, or inner layer of the skin; also called derma, corium, cutis or true skin; made up of connective tissues; the sweat (sudoriferous) glands, oil (sebaceous) glands, sensory nerve endings and receptors, blood vessels, arrector pili muscles and a major portion of each hair follicle are found in the dermis Design line – The artistic guideline used while cutting; the two types of design lines are stationary (a stable guide to which all lengths are directed) and mobile (a moveable guide that consists of a small amount of previously cut hair, which is used as a length guide to cut subsequent partings)

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Design principles – The artistic arrangement patterns for the design elements of form, texture and color to follow Detailing – Smaller, more refined touches, such as pleated textures or creative “piecing” of the hair, for a more personalized hairstyle Developers – Referred to as a catalyst or conductor; oxidating agents used with demi-permanent and permanent color, lighteners and toners; hydrogen peroxide is the most common developer Diagonal lines – Lines that fall between horizontal and vertical, slanting right or left, or toward or away from the face; these lines create the illusion of movement and excitement Dilatator (DI-la-te-ter) – Opens, enlarges or expands Diamond facial shape – The diamond face is elongated and angular; its widest area is at the cheekbones, while the forehead and chin are narrow Diaphragm – Muscular organ that separates the chest cavity from the abdomen Diffuser – A blow dryer attachment used to spread a gentle air flow over a larger area; generally used for freeform drying techniques such as scrunching Digestive system – Breaks food down into simpler chemical compounds that can be easily absorbed by cells or, if not absorbed, eliminated from the body in waste products

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Double-flat-end-paper technique – Incorporates two end papers, one on the top and one on the bottom; the most common end paper technique because it allows maximum control of tapered ends and avoids bunching the ends Double-halo perm pattern – Features a center part with two rows of perm rods that follow the curves of the head Drabbers – Also called concentrates, intensifiers and pigments; refers to products designed to increase the vibrancy of a color formula or to neutralize tones Dramatic style – Clients who like anything out of the ordinary; they want to draw attention and make heads turn Draping – Performed prior to hair care services, such as shampooing and scalp massage, to protect the client’s skin and clothing Dry skin – Characterized by signs such as peeling and flaking; chaps easily and has a general all-over taut feeling; has fewer blemishes and is not prone to acne Duct glands – Canal-like structures that deposit their contents on the surface of the skin; part of the endocrine system Ductless glands – Canal-like structures that secrete hormones into the blood stream; part of the endocrine system E

Digital nerve – Mixed nerve of the arm and hand; extends into the fingers of the hand

Ecology – The science of living beings in relationship to their environment

Digits – phalanges or fingers; fourteen bones that form the fingers; each finger has three phalanges; thumb has two

Eczema (EK-sah-mah) – Characterized by dry or moist lesions with inflammation of the skin; requires medical attention

Dilute solution – Solution that contains a small quantity of the solute in comparison to the quantity of solvent

Efferent nerves – Also called motor nerves; carry messages from the brain to the muscles; cause a muscle to contract or expand

Dimethicone – Ingredient found in conditioners; gives softness to the feel of hair without weighing it down

Efficacy label – Informs product user regarding what the product is effective in fighting

Diplococci (dip-lo-KOK-si) – Bacterial cells that grow in pairs and are the cause of certain infections, including pneumonia

Effleurage (EF-loo-rahzh) – Light, gliding massage strokes or circular motions made with the palms of the hands or pads of the fingertips; often used to begin and/or end a treatment; used on the face, neck and arms

Directional distribution – Hair is distributed vertically, or straight up from the head, and horizontally, or straight out from the head Direct mail advertising – Involves sending postcards or flyers to prospective clients encouraging them to try your salon Disease – Sickness; illness; unhealthy condition Disease-related cause – The invasion of the skin or nail tissues by an agent like bacteria or fungi Disinfectants – Chemical products used to destroy or kill bacteria and some viruses (except bacterial spores) Disinfection – The act of destroying or killing a broad spectrum of microbes on a nonporous surface. Disinfection is the second level of infection control Disulfide bond – Important side bond containing sulfur; directly affected by perming and relaxing Double-process blond – A two-step hair coloring process that involves lightening (decolorizing) the hair first and then recolorizing the hair to the desired tone Double-prong clips – Implements used to secure molded shapes/ sectioning; also secure rollers if picks are not used

Elasticity – The ability of hair to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking Electric curling irons – A styling tool containing a heating element controlled by a thermostat that maintains a constant temperature during use; parts of the iron include: rod handle, shell handle, barrel or rod (the round heating element) and groove or shell (the clamp that holds the hair against the barrel) Electric current – The movement of electricity along a path called a conductor Electric heater – Heats cream for specialized nail services Electricity – A form of energy that produces light, heat, magnetic and chemical changes Electric nail services – Special electrically powered tools are used to perform many of the same procedures as the implements in a basic nail service Electrochemical effect – Electric current traveling through a waterbased solution to produce relaxing or stimulating effects Electrode – Safe contact point through which current can pass

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Electrolysis – A permanent method of hair removal that uses electric current to damage the cells of the papilla and disrupt hair growth; usually performed by a licensed professional called an electrologist Electrons – Negatively charged particles that orbit around the nucleus of an atom Electrotherapy – The application of electrical currents during treatments to the skin Elements of matter – Basic substances that cannot be broken down into simpler substances Elevation – Also known as projection; angle at which the hair is held in relation to the curve of the head prior to cutting Eleventh cranial nerve – The nerve that affects the muscles of the neck and back; also known as the accessory nerve Emery board – Shortens and shapes natural nails and smooths rough edges by using sandpaper-like fine and coarse sides Emotional buyer – The impulsive, spontaneous person that reacts to the color of packaging or aroma of product Emulsion – Two or more nonmixable substances united with help of a binder End bond – Linked together end to end (peptide bond) Endocrine system – Carefully balanced mechanism that directly affects hair growth, skin conditions and energy levels End papers – Papers that are used to control the hair ends and keep hair smoothly wrapped around the perm tool End texturizing – Performed on the ends of the hair, reduces bulk and weight to allow for mobility Environmental cause – Diseases, disorders or conditions of the nail caused by nail services or products (chemicals) that have adversely altered the skin or nail Enzymes (EN-zimz) – Secretions from the salivary glands that assist in breaking down food during digestion EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) – Approves the efficacy of products used for infection control Epicranium (ep-i-KRA-ne-um) – Consists of all of the structures above the cranium, including muscle, skin and aponeuroses Epicranius (ep-i-KRA-ne-us) or occipitofrontalis (ok SIP-ih-tofron-TA-les) – Broad muscle covering the scalp or epicranium Epidermis – The outermost layer of the skin; also referred to as cuticle or scarf skin Epithelial (ep-i-THE-le-el) tissue – Covers and protects body surfaces and internal organs Eponychium (ep-o-NIK-ee-um) – The cuticle that overlaps the lunula at the base of the nail Ergonomics – The science that looks at how body movements and positions and environment work in conjunction with tools and equipment and the effect they have on health and comfort Erythocytes (RBC) – Red blood cells or corpuscles; carry oxygen and contain a protein called hemoglobin

Ethics – Moral principles and values Ethmoid (ETH-moid) – The spongy bone between the eyes that forms part of the nasal cavity Etiology (e-te-OL-o-je) – Cause of a disease, disorder or condition Eumelanin – The type of melanin that produces brown/black hair color Excoriations – Mechanical abrasions to the epidermis (or injuries to the epidermis); scratches to the surface of the skin are considered excoriations Excretion – The skin’s ability to eliminate sweat, salt and wastes from the body, therefore helping to remove toxins from the internal systems Excretory system – Eliminates solid, liquid and gaseous waste products from the body Exercise – Helps to stimulate the blood; helps you feel better and work better Exhaust – The escape of used steam, vapors or dust Exothermic perms – Self-timing and self-heating; use an additive that creates heat through a chemical reaction mixed with perm solution; range from acid to alkaline Extensor (eks-TEN-sor) – Muscle located mid-forearm, on the inside of the arm; straightens the fingers and wrist External carotid artery (ECA) – Supplies blood to the skin and muscles External jugular (EJV) – Vein that collects blood from the head, face and neck External maxillary (EKS-tur-nal MAK-si-ler-e) – Supplies the lower portion of the face, including the mouth and nose External parasites (PAR-ah-sights) – Plants or animals that live on or obtain their nutrients from another organism Eyedropper – Removes acrylic liquid from container to dappen dish Eye liner – Makeup used to accentuate and define the shape of eye Eye shadow – Makeup used to accentuate the shape and color of eye; also contours Eye tabbing – The process of applying individual synthetic lashes to the client’s own lashes F

Facial – The analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, massage and treatment of the face Facial artery – External maxillary nerve; supplies the lower portion of the face, including the mouth and nose Facial masks – Solutions applied to the skin to hydrate, tighten pores or educe excess oil; include clay packs, cream masks, siccative or drying masks and paraffin (warm wax) Facial nerve – Emerges from the brain at the lower part of the ear and is the primary motor nerve of the face; also known as the seventh cranial nerve

Esophagus (e-SOF-ah-gus) – Tube that goes from the pharynx to the stomach

Facial powder – A makeup product primarily designed to “set” other makeup products so that they last longer without fading, streaking or rubbing off

Essential oils – Provides invigorating, stimulating or soothing scents; allows fluid movement on the scalp

Facial skeleton – Fourteen bones that compose the front of the skull

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Facial steamer – A machine that sprays warm, humid mist on skin to open follicles for cleansing Fade haircut – Incorporates graduation and consists of extremely short lengths in the exterior progressing to longer interior lengths Fall – A hairpiece with a base that covers the crown, occipital and nape areas Fantasy pins – Implements used to define textural detail and movement Faradic Current – Alternating current with a mechanical effect that stimulates the nerve and muscle tissue Fat – Energy nutrient found in food and stored by the body for later use; fat makes up 10% of the RDA guidelines Fatty Alcohol – Ingredient found in conditioners; gives hair a smooth feel when dry and makes it easier to comb; creamy in texture and helps retain moisture FEI – Federal Employer Identification; identifies an employer to the government Fifth cranial nerve – The largest of the cranial nerves; also known as the trifacial or trigeminal nerve Fillers – Provide an even base color by filling in porous, damaged or abused areas with materials such as protein or polymers; they equalize the porosity of the hair and deposit a base color in one application Finger bowl – A bowl that allows comfortable soaking of nails for a manicure service Finger/shear position – Refers to the position of the fingers and shears relative to the parting; the two basic types of finger/shear positions are parallel (fingers are positioned at an equal distance away from the parting) and nonparallel (fingers are positioned unequally away from the parting) Finger styling – A technique in which the fingers are used to manipulate and style the hair Fingerwaves – Created by two complete oblong shapings that are joined and connected by a ridge

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Foot brush – A stiff brush that cleans nails and removes debris Foot file – A paddle with a gritty surface that softens and removes calluses Foreign conductor – A outside element that interrupts the flow of electric current Form – A hair design element describing the outline or silhouette of an object; three dimensional representation of shape Forms of matter – Exists in solid, liquid and gas form Foundation – Makeup used to create an even skin tone and uniform surface Fragilitis crinium (frah-JIL-I-tas KRI-nee-um) – The technical term for split ends, small cracks in the cuticle that deepen into the cortex Franchise – An operating agreement in which a fee is paid to a parent corporation in exchange for fixtures, promotion, advertising, education and management techniques Free edge – The part of the nail that extends beyond the end of the finger Freckles – Commonly found on the face, neck and chest and are considered macules Freeform painting – A technique in which a brush is used to strategically position color or lightener on the surface of the hair French manicure – A nail polishing technique/design with white polish applied to the free edge of the nail and pink or peach polish applied to the nail bed French twist – A style in which hair can be incorporated into a roll for an elongated smooth finish, or the roll can be positioned up to the crown area and finished with curls for a combination of textures; also known as the vertical roll Frequency – The number of times per second of alternating current from positive to negative

Fingerwaving – The art of shaping and defining the hair in graceful waves

Friction (FRICK-shun) – Circular or wringing movement with no gliding used on the scalp or with a facial when less pressure is desired; applied with the fingertips or palms; a way in which the hair cuticle can be damaged by combing and brushing

First Aid – Techniques used to assist individuals in emergency situations.

Fringe – The hair that partially or completely covers the forehead in a hairstyle

Fissures – Cracks in the skin; chapped lips are one example of a fissure

Frontal – Bone that extends from the top of the eyes to the top of the head and forms the forehead

Fixed rent – A set dollar amount paid each month to the lessor that allows you to predict monthly expenses

Frontal artery – Supplies the forehead with blood

Flagella (flah-JEL-ah) – Also called cilia (SIL-ee-a); hair-like projections that propel bacterial movement Flat bones – Plate-shaped and located in the skull

Frontalis (frun-TA-les) – Muscle that extends from the forehead to the top of the skull; it raises eyebrows or draws the scalp forward Full stem – Off base; stem and circle of curl positioned below the base and pick-up line; used when closeness and direction is required

Flexor (FLEX-er) – Muscle located mid-forearm, on the inside of the arm; this muscle bends the wrist and closes the fingers

Fungicidal – Disinfectant designed to kill fungus

Floor plan – A drawing or blueprint depicting the various areas, fixtures and operations of the salon

Furuncles (fu-RUN-kels) – Boils; appear in the dermis and the epidermis and are caused by an acute bacterial infection

Fluorescent light – An economical and long-lasting light source Follicle – A cluster of cells in the upper layer of the skin; the cell cluster pulls the upper layer down with it, creating a tube-like pocket called the root sheath, out of which the hair will grow

Furrows – Indented vertical lines down the nail plate

Fuse – A device that contains a fine metal wire that allows current to flow

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Galvanic Current – A direct current (DC) of low voltage and high amperage; has an electrochemical effect and is the oldest form of electrotherapy in the salon Galvanic electrolysis – Multiple needle method of permanent hair removal Gamine style – Clients who are very fashion-oriented and enjoy wearing the latest looks; playful and very feminine Gas – Form of matter having definite weight but indefinite volume and shape Gel – Creates wet-look finishes in haircutting Gel masks – Designed for a wide variety of purposes; may contain botanicals and ingredients that are designed to calm and soothe sensitive skin General infection – Also called systemic infection; occurs when the circulatory system carries bacteria and their toxins to all parts of the body General shock – Passes through the nervous system Generator – Power source most often used in a salon; produces alternating current; uses mechanical energy to produce a flow of electrons

H

Habit – An action performed repeatedly Half stem – Half of circle of curl is positioned below the base and pick-up line; half-off base; used when equal degree of predetermined direction and volume is required Hair – A form of protein called keratin Hair additions – Loose hair fiber intended for attachment to a client’s own hair Haircutting – The artistic carving or removing of hair lengths with shears, taper shears, razors and/or clippers to create various forms and shapes Haircutting station – Place for stylist’s tools to be displayed and organized; workstation Hair density – Measure of the amount of hair per square inch on the scalp; usually referred to as light, medium or heavy (or thin, medium or thick) Hair fiber – Sometimes referred to as the hair shaft or strand; the portion of the hair that extends above the skin’s surface Hair lightener – The oldest form of hair color service; bleaches or decolorizes hair

Germinal matrix – The area of the hair bulb where cell division (mitosis) takes place

Hairpieces – Designed to cover specific areas of the head and for definite purposes; made of human hair, animal hair, synthetic fibers or a blend of each

Germinal matrix cells – Produce the cells that ultimately keratinize (harden) and form the three major layers of the hair

Hairpins – Implements used to secure hair in place for finished style, especially in long hair designs

Glands – Organs in the body by which certain substances are separated from the blood and changed into some secretion for use in the body, such as oil (sebaceous gland)

Hair pressing – Also called silking; a form of temporarily straightening tightly curled hair by applying a protective oil and then using a hot pressing comb or silking iron on small sections of the hair to straighten the curl

Glyceryl monothioglycolate – Thioglycolic derivative; found in acid waves Good Samaritan Laws – Give legal protection to people who provide emergency care to ill or injured persons Graduated form – A combination of activated and unactivated cut texture achieved by projecting (lifting) the hair and using mobile and stationary design lines; also known as a wedge or 45° angle cut Graduation – Very short exterior progressing to longer interior; similar to graduated form but shorter Grammar – The standard use of language Gray hair – Sometimes referred to as mottled hair, indicating white spots scattered about the hair shaft, caused by reduced color pigment in the cortex layer of the hair Greater auricular nerve – Extends into the side of the neck and external ear Greater occipital nerve – Extends up the back of the scalp to the top of the head Gross anatomy – The study of the structures of the body that can be seen with the naked eye Grounding wire – A safety device designed to protect you when operating certain kinds of appliances Growth pattern – The natural growth pattern determines the angle and direction at which the hair grows out of the scalp

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Hair root – The portion of hair that is inside the hair follicle under the skin’s surface Hairstyling – The art of dressing and arranging hair to create temporary changes in the form and texture of the finished hairstyle Hair texture – Refers to the surface appearance or feel of the hair as well as the diameter of the hair strand itself; unactivated texture – having a smooth and unbroken surface, activated – having a rough surface Half-off base – The tool or curl sits directly on the bottom parting of the base, with half the curl on the base and half the curl off the base Half-off-base tool position – With a one-diameter base size, the rod is positioned half on its base and half off its base, directly on the bottom parting Halitosis (hal-eh-TOH-sis) – A term referring to bad breath Hand lotion – Lubricant used to soften skin; aids when providing massage manipulations Hand-tied wig – Produced by actually hand tying strands of hair into a fine meshwork foundation Hard press – Pressing action that is repeated twice with more pressure and heat Hard water – Contains salts of calcium, magnesium and other metals; does not allow shampoo to lather freely

GLOSSARY

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Head Lice – Parasitic insects transmitted directly from one person to another, or by contact with articles that have come in contact with an infested person (such as combs and brushes, etc.)

Hydrogen – Element with the simplest atomic structure

Head position – The position of the client’s head during the haircut; the most common head positions are upright, forward or tilted to either side

Hydrogen peroxide – The most often used oxidizing or developing agent

Heart – A cone-shaped, muscular organ located in the chest cavity, normally about the size of a closed fist Heart facial shape – The heart-shaped (triangle) face is long; the heart face shape is angular and the chin area is sometimes elongated and pointed, while the forehead is wide Heart rate – A normal heart beats 60-80 times per minute Hemoglobin (HE-mo-glo-bin) – A protein in the red blood cells that attracts oxygen molecules through the process know as oxygenation Henna – Vegetable dye that produces reddish highlights in the hair Heredity – The genes that people inherit from their parents Herpes simplex – Also known as fever blister; a contagious, chronic condition characterized by a single vesicle or group of vesicles on a red, swollen base; usually appears on the lips, nostrils or other parts of the face Hertz – A rating providing the number of cycles per second that a generator alternates the current from the source High frequency machine – A machine that creates current that is thermal, or heat producing, and germicidal for treatment of the skin Hirsuties – Hypertrichosis; superfluous hair; abnormal coverage of hair on areas of the body where normally only lanugo hair appears Histology – The study of the structures of the body too small to be seen except through a microscope; also called microscopic anatomy Horizontal lines – Lines that are parallel to the horizon and are considered stable or restful; these lines create a feeling of maximum weight or stability Hospital level disinfectants – Now called broad-spectrum disinfectants; group of disinfectants that kill bacteria, viruses, fungi, and pseudomonas Hot brush – A styling tool with a small motor that forces air over a heating element and a slotted barrel that holds the brush or comb attachment; also called a curling brush Hot oil or cream manicure – The client’s hand is placed in oil or cream instead of warm water soaking solution Human Hepatitis B (HBV) – A highly infectious disease that infects the liver

Hydrogen bond – Side bond that works on the principle that unlike charges attract

Hydrometer – Implement used to measure the strength (volume) of hydrogen peroxide Hydrophilic – Refers to the water-loving part of a molecule Hygiene – The science that deals with healthful living Hyoid (HI-oid) – The u-shaped bone referred to as the “Adam’s apple” located in the throat Hyperhidrosis (hyper-hy-DROH-sis) – An over production of perspiration caused by excessive heat or general body weakness; requires medical attention Hypertrichosis (hi-per-tri-KOH-sis) – Referred to as hirsuties (hursue-SHEEZ) or superfluous hair; the abnormal coverage of hair on areas of the body where normally only lanugo hair appears Hypertrophies – new growths; overgrowths; excesses of skin Hyponychium (heye-poh-NIK-ee-um) – The skin underneath the free edge of the nail I

Image – A person’s total look based on the care of hair, skin, hands, feet and clothing Imbedded – Lodged in a surrounding mass Immunity – The ability of the body to destroy infectious agents that enter the body Impetigo (im-peh-TIE-go) – A highly contagious bacterial infection that produces a honey-yellow, crusted lesion, usually on the face Inactive bacteria – Stage during which bacteria become dormant Incandescent – Lighting used in the salon to balance tones Increase-layered form – A form with an activated cut texture that can be achieved using a stationary design line and the conversion layering technique; also known as a shag or 180° angle cut Indentation – The amount of hollow space or flatness (closeness) achieved through the position of the tool and the size of the base Infection – Occurs when disease-causing (pathogenic) bacteria or viruses enter the body and multiply to the point of interfering with the body’s normal state

Human relations – The psychology of getting along with others

Infection control – The efforts taken to prevent the spread of disease and kill certain or all microbes

Humectant – A moisturizing ingredient

Inferior labial – Artery that supplies the lower lip

Humerus (HU-mur-us) – The largest bone of the upper arm, extends from the elbow to the shoulder

Inferioris (in-FIR-e-or-es) – Located below or is smaller

Hydration – The ability to keep the skin soft, supple and maintain moisture through water Hydraulic chair – Provides proper back support for client during the haircutting service; adjustable Hydrochloric (hi-dro-KLO-rik) acids – Break down food in the stomach

Inflammation – An objective symptom characterized by redness, pain, swelling and/or increased temperature Infraorbital nerve – Extends to the lower eyelid, side of the nose, upper lip and mouth Infrared lamp – A lamp that provides a soothing heat that penetrates into the tissues of the body; softens the skin to allow penetration of product and increased blood flow

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Infrared light therapy – The use of infrared light in the treatment of skin

Kidneys – Organs that receive urea from the liver and then pass the urea through small tubelike structures known as nephrons

Infratrochlear nerve – The nerve that affects the skin of the nose

Kilowatt – Equals 1,000 watts

Ingrown nails – Onychocryptosis; nails that grow into the edge of the nail groove

Kolionychia (kol-e-o-NIK-e-a) – Nails with a concave shape; caused by systemic or long-term illness or nerve disturbance; also called spoon nails

Inorganic chemistry – Studies all matter that is not alive, has never been alive and does not contain carbon, such as rocks, water and minerals Insertion – The portion of the muscle joined to moveable attachments: bones, movable muscles or skin Instant conditioner – Used to coat the hair shaft and restore moisture to the hair Insulator – Material that does not allow the flow of electric current Insurance agent – Person who gives advice on insurance needs to safely open and operate a business Integumentary system – The skin and its layers Intensity of hair color – Refers to the brightness or vividness of a color or the strength of the tone Internal carotid artery (ICA) – Supplies blood to the brain, eyes and forehead Internal jugular (IJV) – Vein that collects blood from the head, face and neck Inventory control – Applies to procedures used in the salon that will ensure that products are accounted for from the time they are brought into the salon until they are sold or used Invisible light therapy – The use of light or visible rays in the treatment of skin Involuntary or non-striated (STRI-at-ed) – Muscles that respond automatically to control various body functions including the functions of internal organs Iontophoresis (eye-on-to-fo-REE-sis) – The use of a Galvanic Current machine to introduce water-soluble treatment products into the skin Irregular bones – Found in the wrist, ankle or spinal column (the back) IRS – Internal Revenue Service; the governing body that controls taxes paid on income

L

Lacrimal (LAK-ri-mal) – The smallest two bones of the facial skeleton that form the front part of the inner, bottom wall of the eye socket Language – Human speech, spoken or written; wording Lanugo – The term for baby fine, silky hair, which covers most of the body and is shed shortly after birth and replaced with vellus hair Large intestine – Includes the colon; stores undigested food for eventual elimination through the anal canal Large-tooth comb – Comb that controls and distributes larger amounts of hair; also used for over-comb techniques Latissimus dorsi – Muscle covering the back of the neck and upper back; draws the head back, rotates the shoulder blades and controls swinging of the arm Law of color – Out of all the colors in the universe, only three – yellow, red and blue, called primary colors – are pure Lawyer – Someone who gives advice on the legal obligations of business ownership, borrowing money, signing rental agreements and assuming tax responsibilities Lease – A rental agreement Left atrium or auricle – Upper chamber of the heart Left ventricle – Lower chamber of the heart Lentigines (len-tih-JEE-nees) – Appears larger and darker than a freckle; an example of a macule Lesser occipital nerve – Extends into the muscles at the back of the skull Leuconychia (loo-ko-NIK-e-a) – White spots appearing in the nail caused by injury to the nail, heredity, signs of systemic disorders or nutritional deficiency

J

Leukocytes (WBC) – White blood cells or corpuscles; fight bacteria and other foreign substances and increase in number when infection invades the body

Job benefits – Key factors offered to an employee by an employer, which include salary, insurance, paid holidays, vacation time and sick days, among other things

Levator palpebrae (POL-pe-bra) superioris – Muscle located above the eyelids, functions to raise the eyelid

JL color ring – A ring containing numbered samples of hair colors from black to palest blond

Jugular veins – Internal and external veins; all blood from head, face and neck returns to heart by jugular veins

Level of hair color – The degree of lightness or darkness of hair color; identified on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 the lightest Liabilities – Debts owed to others

K

Keratin – A protein that accounts for 97% of the makeup of hair Keratinization – The process whereby cells change their shape, dry out and form keratin protein; once keratinized, the cells that form the hair fiber or strand are no longer alive 374

Leukoderma (Loo-ko-DUR-mah) – Describes hypopigmentation (lack of pigmentation) of the skin caused by a decrease in activity of melanocytes

Lifestyle – Factors in a person’s life such as job/career, hobbies (such as sports), family, time willing to spend on hair, skill or ability to care for hair and the money the client is willing to invest in hair maintenance Lifter – A comb used for detailing, lifting and backcombing

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Light-cured or gel nails – An acrylic gel applied to the nail plate and then cured or hardened to reinforce weak nails or add sheen and strength over to nail tips

Lymphatic system – A vascular system that interacts with the blood system by collecting excess tissue fluid and filtering toxins; helps increase the body’s resistance to disease

Lighteners – Also called bleaches; used to remove or diffuse melanin; utilize ingredients, such as ammonia and peroxide, to facilitate the oxidation process; generally applied to dry hair; come in oil or cream form (on-the-scalp lighteners) or powder form (off-the-scalp lighteners)

Lymph nodes – Glands that filter out toxic substances, like bacteria

Light therapy – The production of beneficial effects on the body through treatments using light rays or waves Lighting – The way in which lights are arranged Line – Consists of a series of points that are connected with each other in a variety of directions Lip glosses – Makeup used to add color to lips; impart a shiny appearance to the lips; generally have less concentration of color than lipsticks; have moisturizing properties Lip liner – Makeup used to define natural shape of the lips or correct the shape Lipophilic – Refers to the oil-loving part of a molecule Lipstick – Makeup used to add color and texture to the lips Liquid – Form of matter having definite weight and volume, but no definite shape Liquid-dry shampoo – Used to cleanse the scalp and hair for clients who are unable to receive a normal shampoo; effective in cleaning wigs and hairpieces Liquid hair colors – Applied with a bottle; contain fewer conditioning agents and a greater ammonia content; have a good penetration ability Liquid polish – Colored polish, enamel, which creates a colored effect on the nail Liquid tissue – Carries food, waste products and hormones Liver – Organ that converts and neutralizes ammonia from the circulatory system to urea Load – The technical name for any electrically powered appliance Local infection – Located in a small, confined area; often indicated by a pus-filled boil, pimple or inflamed area Local shock – Passes through a small part of the body causing burns and muscle contractions Logarithmic – Each step or number increases by multiples of 10 Logical buyer – The careful person who wants the facts about a product and thinks about buying without much regard for who else likes or uses the product Long bones – Found in the arms and legs Loss – Occurs when the expenses of a salon are greater than the income produced Lungs – Spongy organs composed of cells into which air enters during inhalation Lunula – The whitened area, half-moon shape at the base of the nail Lymph – Colorless liquid produced as a by product in the process through which plasma passes nourishment to capillaries and cells

Lymph vascular system – Responsible for the circulation of lymph through lymph glands, nodes and vessels M

Machine-made wig – Wig consisting of hair fiber sewn into long strips called wefts, which are then sewn to the cap of the wig in a circular or crisscross pattern Macules – Discoloration appearing on the skin’s surface; a freckle is an example of a macule Magnetic effect – A push-pull effect causing motors to turn Magnifying lamp – A lamp that provides thorough examination of skin’s surface using magnification and glare-free light Makeup – The application of products that add color, highlights, contour and other enhancements to the face Malpractice insurance – A policy that protects the salon owner from financial loss that can result from a stylist-employee’s negligence while performing hair, nail and skin care services on salon clients Mandible (MAN-di-bl) – The lower jaw and the largest bone of the facial skeleton Mandibular (man-DIB-u-lur) nerve branch – Main nerve branch to the lower 1/3 of the face Mandibular nerve – Extends to the muscles of the chin and lower lip Manicure – The cosmetic care of the hands and finger nails; the Latin word “manus” means hand and “cura” means care Mantle – The pocket-like structure that holds the root and matrix Marcel curling irons – A styling tool, heated in a stove, used to create curls or waves for a finished hairstyle Marcel waving – The process of curling hair with thermal irons Mascara – Makeup used to define, lengthen, thicken the eye lashes Massage – A scientific method of manipulating the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or stroking with the hands, fingers or an instrument Masseter (MAS-se-ter) – Muscle covers the hinge of the jaw and aids in closing the jaw, as in chewing (mastication) Master Sketcher comb – A comb used to remove tangles from the hair and to backcomb the hair Matter – Refers to anything that occupies space Maxillae (mak-SIL-e) – The two bones of the upper jaw Maxillary (MAK-si-ler-e) nerve branch – Main nerve branch to the middle 1/3 of the face Measuring tape – Measures client’s head to determine correct wig size Mechanical equipment – Any equipment with a motor (for example, clippers and massagers) Median nerve – Extends down the mid-forearm into the hand

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Medicated rinse – Used to control minor dandruff and scalp conditions

Moisturizing agent – Replenishes or restores moisture to dry scalp; formulated as creams, oils or lotions

Medicated shampoo – Prescribed by the client’s doctor to treat scalp and hair problems and disorders such as minor dandruff conditions; may affect color-treated hair

Moisturizing conditioner – Used to add moisture to dry, brittle hair

Medulla – The central core of the hair shaft, also called the pith (often absent in fine or very fine hair) Medulla oblongata (me-DOOL-ah ob-long-GA-ta) –Connects parts of the brain to the spinal column; located just below the pons

Molding – The process of combing or shaping wet hair into the desired position Molecule – Two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond

Melanin – A pigment that gives skin and hair their color

Moles – Small brown pigmented spots that may be raised; hair often grows through moles, but should not be removed, unless advised by a physician

Melanocytes – Cells that exist among the dividing cells within the hair bulb

Monilethrix (mo-NIL-e-thriks) – Beads or nodes formed on the hair shaft

Melanoderma – The term used to describe any hyperpigmentation caused by overactivity of the melanocytes in the epidermis

Monochromatic color – Color scheme using the same color (with variations in value and intensity)

Melanosomes – Bundles of a pigment protein complex that rest near the hair bulb’s nourishment center, the dermal papilla

Monomer – Mixes with the powder to form an acrylic nail; liquid in form

Mental nerve – Extends to the lower lip and chin

Motor nerves – Also called efferent nerves; carry messages from the brain to the muscles

Mentalis (men-TAL-us) – Muscle located at the tip of the chin, pushes the lower lip up and/or wrinkles the chin, as in expressing doubt

Mottled hair – Hair with white spots scattered about in the hair shafts

Metabolism (me-TAB-e-lism) – The chemical process in which cells receive nutrients (food) for cell growth and reproduction

Mousse – A product used to define texture; creates light to firm hold on wet or dry hair

Metacarpals (met-ah-KAR-pels) – The five long, thin bones that form the palm of the hand

MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) – An information sheet designed to provide the key data on a specific product regarding ingredients, associated hazards, combustion levels, and storage requirements

Metallic dyes – Hair dyes containing metals; also known as progressive dyes because the hair turns darker with each application Microbe – Another word for bacteria or germ; small living organism Microbiology – The study of small living organisms called microbes, such as bacteria

Muscles – Fibrous tissues that contract, when stimulated by messages carried by the nervous system, to produce movement

Microscopic – Too small to be seen except through a microscope

Muscular system – Supports the skeleton, produces body movements, contours the body, involved in the functions of other body systems

Middle temporal – Artery that supplies the temples

Muscular tissue – Contracts, when stimulated, to produce motion

Midstrand texturizing – Performed between the end of the base area up to 1” (2.5 cm) before the ends to reduce bulk and weight

Myology (mi-OL-o-je) – The study of the structure, function and diseases of the muscles

Midstrand to ends – Hair color technique to lighten the existing color; the color or lightener is first applied to the midstrand, generally ½” (1.25 cm) away from the scalp, then up to but not including any porous ends later, since they will lighten faster

N

Milia (MIL-ee-uh) – Also called whiteheads; caused by the accumulation of hardened sebum beneath the skin Miliaria rubra (mil-ee-AY-re-ah ROOB-rah) – Prickly heat; an acute eruption of small red vesicles with burning and itching of the skin caused by excessive heat Mixed nerves – Large nerves that perform both sensory and motor functions Mixture – Two or more substances that combine physically Modeling masks – Masks that are mixed with water and applied in a thick consistency to the face; these masks dry and harden to a rubber-like consistency, then can be pulled from the face in one piece; these masks seal the skin, locking in moisture and creating a firm, taut feeling Moisturizer – Skin care product used to replenish moisture/oil and protect skin 376

Naevus or nevus (NEE-vus) – A birthmark or a congenital mole; reddish purple flat mark; caused by dilation of the small blood vessels in the skin Nail and cuticle scissors – Implement used to cut nails or trim mending fiber Nail art – The use of nail paints, striping tape, beads, jewelry and other accessories arranged creatively on the nail Nail bed – The area of the nail bed on which the nail body rests; nerves and blood vessels found here supply nourishment Nail bleach – Lightener or high percent hydrogen peroxide used to remove stains and whiten nails Nail body – Nail plate; visible nail area from the nail root to free edge; made of layers; no nerves or blood vessels can be found here Nail brush – Small brush used to clean nails and remove debris before polishing Nail cuticle – The loose and pliable overlapping skin around the nail

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Nail file – Shortens, files and shapes artificial nails; coarse grit Nail forms – Plastic, paper or metal templates that form an acrylic extension to the natural nail Nail groove – The tracks on either side of the nail that the nail moves on as it grows Nail matrix – The active tissue that generates cells that harden as they move outward from the root to the nail Nail mend fiber – Mending material; silk, paper, fiberglass used to repair splits or cracks on the nail Nail root – Attached to the matrix at the base of the nail, under the skin and inside the mantle Nail service table – A table that provides a place for all tools to be laid out; is the proper height for comfort; may have an attached light Nail strengthener – Usually a clear polish; may contain strengthening fibers used to prevent nails from splitting and peeling Nail technician – Specializes in nail care services

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Nervous system – Coordinates and controls the overall operation of the human body Networking – Building professional relationships through meeting and greeting people Net worth – Assets minus liabilities Neurology – The study of the nervous system Neutral or base – Indicates equal number of positive hydrogen ions and negative hydroxide ions Neutralizer – Product that reforms disulfide bonds in a perm procedure Neutralizing – Rebonding or oxidation; final step in the perm process; restores the disulfide bonds; reduces the swelling caused by the alkalinity of the perm solution and hardens the bonds in the new shape Neutron – Particle with no electric charge found in the nucleus of an atom

Nail tips – Plastic extensions that adhere to natural nail; they have a hollowed area on one end called the nail well, which is attached to the natural nail

Nitrazine paper – Used to indicate if solution is acidic, neutral or alkaline

Nail wall – The folds of skin on either side of the nail groove

No-lye relaxers – Contain a derivative of sodium hydroxide; contain calcium, potassium, guanidine, lithium hydroxide, or bisulfate as the active ingredient; usually recommended for less resistant hair and require frequent conditioning follow-up treatments

Nail wraps –Woven materials that are applied to the natural nails or nails with tips to add strength Nape – The area of the head below the occipital bone Nasal (NA-zel) – The two bones that join to form the bridge of the nose Nasal bones - Two bones that join to form the bridge of the nose Nasalis – One of the four muscles located inside the nose, controls contraction and expansion of the nostrils Nasal nerve – Extends to the tip and lower side of the nose Natural-bristle hair brush – A brush that increases blood circulation to the scalp, removes dirt, debris and product build-up from the hair prior to the shampoo service Natural distribution – The direction the hair assumes as it falls naturally from the head due to gravity Natural fall – Describes the hair as the lengths lay or fall naturally over the curve of the head Natural immunity – A partially inherited, natural resistance to disease Natural style – Clients who like to wear colors that are found in nature and made from natural materials

Nodes – Glands

Non-corrosive – Prevents eating away of implements when placed in a disinfectant Nonoxidative – Hair colors that contain no developers Non-pathogenic bacteria – Non-disease-producing bacteria; they are harmless and can be beneficial Non-striated muscle – Involuntary muscle; responds automatically to control various body functions including functions of internal organs Normalizing conditioner – Used to close the cuticle after alkaline chemical services Normal projection – The hair is viewed abstractly as if it were sticking straight out from the various curves of the head; this view allows the stylist to analyze the structure or length arrangement of the hair Normal skin – Characterized by a fresh and healthy color, a firm, moist and smooth texture, freedom from blackheads and blemishes, and does not appear oily No-stem – Curl placed directly on base

Neck strip – Protects client’s skin from contact with the cape; replaces towel during the haircutting services

Nucleus (NU-kle-us) – The control center of cell activities; the dense core of an atom that contains protons and sometimes neutrons

Needle and thread – Used to create darts and tucks in wigs; secure wefts in track-and-sew technique; used to sew wefts for fantasy hairpieces

Nutrition – The intake of appropriate dietary requirements

Nerve cell – Neuron; cells with long and short threadlike fibers called axons; responsible for sending messages in the form of nerve impulses

Objective symptoms – Signs of a disorder or disease that are visible; for example, pimples or inflammation

Nerve terminal (synapse) – Appears at the end of axon; connects the neuron to muscles, organs or other nerve cells Nerve tissue – Carries messages to and from the brain and coordinates body functions

O

Oblong facial shape – The oblong (rectangle) face is long, narrow and angular. The jaw line is wide and almost horizontal; the hairline on the oblong face is only slightly curved

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Oblong perm pattern – Positions rods within oblongs using diagonal partings; creates strong wave patterns

Onychophagy (o-ni-KOF-a-je) – Refers to bitten nails

Occipital (ak-SIP-e-tal) – The bone that forms the back of the skull, indenting above the nape area

Onychophyma – Swelling of the nail; also known as onychauxis

Occipital artery – Supplies blood to the back of the head, up to the crown Occipitalis (ok-sip-i-TAL-is) – Muscle located at the nape of the neck; draws the scalp back Occupation disorders – Occur in certain types of work situations due to reactions to certain chemicals used or as a result of repeated actions Off base – The tool or curl sits below the bottom parting of the base, creating minimum base strength and the least volume or lift Off-base tool position – The hair is held at 45° below the center of the base while wrapping so that the tool sets completely off its base; used for a minimal degree of volume and a curl pattern concentrated on the midstrand and ends Off-the-scalp lightener – Strong lightener that lightens the hair quickly and is not intended to touch the scalp Ohm – A unit of electric resistance Ohm’s rating – Measure of the resistance to the motion of the electrons through a conductor Oily skin – An all-over shiny look and/or rough texture with blackheads and enlarged pores Ointment – Mixtures of organic substances and a medicinal agent, usually found in a semi-solid form On base – The tool or curl is centered between the top and bottom partings of the base On top of the fingers – Haircutting position used when lifting lengths on top of the head by cutting the hair along the top of your fingers On-base tool position – A one-diameter base is directed 45°above the center of the base and wrapped so the tool sits between two partings; used to create more volume On-the-scalp lightener – Lightener that when applied to the hair can touch the scalp without harm Onychatrophia (o-ni-ka-TRO-fe-a) – Atrophy of the nail or wasting away of nail Onychauxis (o-ni-KOK-sis) – Hypertrophy; thickening of the nail plate or an abnormal outgrowth of the nail Onychia (o-NIK-e-a) – Inflammation of the nail matrix Onychocryptosis (o-ni-ko-KRIP-to-sis) – Ingrown nails; causes include environmental or poor nail trimming practices; can become infected Onychogryposis (o-ni-ko-GRI-po-sis) – Represents an increased curvature of the nails; also called “claw nails” Onychology (on-ih-KOL-o-gee) – The study of the structure and growth on the nails

Onychophosis – Overgrowth of the nail bed Onychoptosis (o-ni-kop-TO-sis) – Refers to shedding or falling off of nails Onychorrhexis (o-ni-ko-REK-sis) – Split or brittle nails Onychosis – Any disease, disorder or condition of the nail Onyx (ON-iks) – The technical name for the nail Open circuit – A broken path of electron flow Open-minded buyer – A ready buyer; the person who will take a chance on new products without hesitation Ophthalmic (of-THAL-mik) nerve branch – Main nerve branch to the top 1/3 of the face Opponens – Muscles located in the palm (palmor view) of the hand and cause the thumb to move toward the fingers, giving the ability to grasp or make a fist Oral hygiene – The act of maintaining healthy teeth and keeping the breath fresh Orangewood stick – Implement made of orangewood used to loosen debris and apply creams and clean under the free edge of the nail Orbicularis oculi (or-bik-ye-LAR-es AK-yu-le) – Muscle that circles the eye socket and functions to close the eyelid Organic chemistry – Deals with all matter that is now living or was alive at one time, with carbon present, such as plants and animals Organs – Separate body structures that perform specific functions; composed of two or more different tissues Orientation – A salon program developed to familiarize the new employee with work habits and standards of the salon Origin – Nonmoving (fixed) portion of the muscle attached to bones or other fixed muscles Oris orbicularis (O-ris or-bik-ye-LAR-es) – Muscle that circles the mouth and is responsible for contracting, puckering and wrinkling the lips, as in kissing or whistling OSHA (The Occupational Safety and Health Administration) – The regulating agency under the Department of Labor that enforces safety and health standards in the workplace Osteology (as-te-AL-e-je) – The study of bones Outlining – A cutting technique used to define the perimeter hairline Oval facial shape – The oval face is rounded, long and narrow rather than wide and short Overdirected – The tool or curl sits in the upper portion of the base, but not on or above the parting Overlap – Application of chemical products like hair color or relaxer on top of previously treated hair; to be avoided Overload – The passage of more current than the line can carry Oxidation – The process of combining oxygen with other chemical ingredients

Onycholysis (o-ni-KOL-I-sis) – Refers to a loosening or separation of the nail

Oxidative – Hair color containing developers (oxidant)

Onychomycosis (o-ni-ko-mi-KO-sis) – Fungus of the nail

Oxygen – One of five elements that make up hair

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P

Palatine (PAL-ah-tin) – The two bones that form the roof of the mouth and the floor of the eye sockets Palm down – Haircutting position with the palm of your cutting hand downward; commonly used for cutting solid form lengths Palm to palm – Haircutting position used when cutting graduated lengths by holding the hair away from the head Palm up – Haircutting position with the palm of your cutting hand upward; commonly used when cutting along diagonal lines Papilla – Filled with capillaries (small blood vessels) that supply nourishment to the cells around it, called germinal matrix cells Papillary (PAP-e-lairy) canal – Oil (sebum) is secreted onto the surface of the skin by way of the papillary canal Papules – Hardened red elevations of the skin in which no fluid is present; a pimple is an example of a papule Parallel wiring – Wiring system with the ability to power several loads all at once or at different times Parietal (pah-RI-e-tal) – The two bones that form the crown and upper sides of the head Parietal artery – Supplies the crown and sides of the head Paronychia (par-o-NIK-e-a) – Inflammation of the skin around nail; also called Felon Partial relaxer – A virgin relaxer applied only to selected areas of the head; used mainly when the nape area and sides are closely tapered or when the perimeter hairline is frizzy Parting – Lines that subdivide sections of hair in order to separate, distribute and control the hair while cutting

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Peptide bond – End bond of amino acids where amino end attaches to acid end Pericardium (per-i-KAR-de-um) – A membrane that encases the heart and contracts and relaxes to force blood to move through the circulatory system Perimeter – The area all around the hairline Perimeter perms – Eliminates texture in the top and crown and focuses on the perimeter and ends of the hair; also called drop crown wrap Perionychium (PER-I-o-nik-ee-um) – The skin that touches, overlaps and surrounds the nail Peripheral (pe-RIF-ur-al) Nervous System – Composed of sensory and motor nerves that extend from the brain and spinal cord to other parts of the body Peristalsis (per-I-STAL-sis) – The twisting and turning motion of the esophagus Perm – A chemical procedure to add curl or wave to hair Permanent colors – Colors mixed with hydrogen peroxide capable of both lifting natural pigment and depositing artificial pigment in one process; add tone or darken existing hair or lighten and deposit color in a single process Perm rods – Tools on which hair is wrapped; come in various lengths, diameters, shapes and colors; determine the size and shape of a new curl configuration (small diameter rods produce small, firm curls and large diameter rods produce large curls) Perm solution – Reduces disulfide bonds so hair can assume new shape of rod

Partnership – Salon business owned by two or more persons

Perpendicular distribution – The hair is combed at a 90°angle from its parting

Passive immunity – Developed through the injection of antigens, which stimulate the body’s immune response

Personal ethics – The proper conduct one displays in life through positive values and beliefs, such as honesty and fairness

Patch test – A test used to see if a client has a negative or positive allergic reaction to a chemical product; required 24 hours prior to aniline derivative tints

Personal goals – A personal motivation statement that describes or defines the path life and career may take

Pathogenic bacteria – Disease-producing bacteria; they are harmful because they cause infection and disease; some produce toxins Pathogenic bacterial cells – Bacterial cells that cause disease, infection and may produce toxins Pathology – The study of a disease Pear facial shape – The pear-shaped (trapezoid) face is most often elongated, with a forehead that is narrow and a jaw that is the widest area of the face Pectoralis (pek-to-RAL-us) major and pectoralis minor – Muscles that extend across the front of the chest; these muscles assist in swinging the arms Pediculosis capitis (pe-dik-u-LOH-sis) – Medical term for head lice; infestation of head lice on the scalp causing itching and eventual infection Pedicure – Cosmetic care of the feet and toenails; the Latin word “ped” means foot and “cura” means care Pelvic tilt – A motion that keeps one from arching backward by bending the knees slightly and pulling in the abdominal muscles when reaching up

Personal hygiene – The individual system for maintaining cleanliness and health Personality – The outward reflection of inner thoughts, feelings, attitude and values Personal loan rate – Individual loan rate based on your net worth Personal Service Workers (PSWs) – Those workers and professionals, such as nurses, doctors, teachers and cosmetologists, who work with the public and are often asked to take precautions against HBV Petrissage (PAY-tre-sahzh) – Light or heavy kneading and rolling of the muscles; performed by kneading muscles between the thumb and fingers or by pressing the palm of the hand firmly over the muscles, then grasping and squeezing with the heel of the hand and fingers; generally performed from the front of the head to the back; used on the face, arms, shoulders and upper back Phalanges (fah-LAN-jes) – The fourteen bones that form the digits or fingers Pharynx (FAR-ingks) – Passageway at the back of the mouth; part of the digestive tract

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Pheomelanin – The type of melanin that produces red hair color pH meter – Determines the pH value of a solution Phoresis – The process that allows bleaching of the skin Physical change – A change in the physical characteristics of a substance without creating a new substance Physiology – The study of the functions bodily organs and systems perform

Plastic cape – A waterproof cape used for shampooing, wet hair cutting, wet styling and chemical services Platelets – Thrombocytes; responsible for clotting of blood Platysma (plah-TIZ-mah) – Muscle that extends from the tip of the chin to the shoulders and chest and depresses the lower jaw and lip, as in expressing sadness Podiatrist – A foot doctor

Picks – Implements used to secure rollers in place while hair dries; also secure perm rods

Polish remover – Acetone or non-acetone solution used to dissolve polish

Piggyback perms – Perm that positions two rods along a single strand; designed for longer lengths to ensure complete saturation of chemicals

Pollutant – Product that causes odors or harmful effects to the air Polymer – Mixes with the monomer to form an acrylic nail; powder in form

Pilica polonica – Refers to excessive matting of hair, characterized by a mass of hair strands tangled together in a mat that cannot be separated

Polypeptide bond – Several peptide bonds connecting amino acids to form chains

Pincurl base – The area of the strand at the scalp between partings within a shape Pincurl circle – The end of the strand that forms the curl Pincurls – A means of temporarily changing the direction and texture of hair by creating smoothly wound curls without the use of rollers

Pomade – A product used to add gloss and sheen to dry hair; creates texture separation; also referred to as polisher, glosser, lusterizer and brilliantine Pons – Connects other parts of the brain to the spinal column and is located below the cerebrum and directly in front of the cerebellum Porosity – Refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals

Pincurls, full-stem – Off-base control; stem and circle are positioned below the base and pick-up line in a pincurl

Positive attitude – Identifiable emotions and/or reactions expressed favorably

Pincurls, half-stem – Half-off base control; half of the circle is positioned below the base and pick-up line in a pincurl

Posterior (pos-TER-e-er) – Behind or in back of

Pincurls, no-stem – On-base; entire circle of curl is positioned on the base; produces lift or strong curl effect or strong wave Pincurls, semi-stand up – Transitional pincurls; used to create blend from areas of volume to areas of closeness; not quite a stand-up curl and not quite a flat curl Pincurls, stand up – Volume pincurl or cascade pincurl; used to create fullness and height; placed directly on base with the circle at a 90° angle to head Pincurl stem (arc) – The beginning portion of the strand that demonstrates the direction of the curl (between base and first turn) Pityriasis (pit-i-REYE-ah-sis) – The medical term for dandruff; overabundance of epithelial cells (small, white scales) that have accumulated on the scalp or fallen to the shoulders Pityriasis capitis simplex (kah-PEYE-tis SIM-pleks) – The medical term for dry dandruff; dry epithelial cells attached to the scalp or on the hair; itchy; caused by poor circulation, poor diet, uncleanliness or emotional disturbance Pityriasis steatoides (ste-a-TOY-dez) – Medical term for greasy or waxy dandruff; epithelial cells combine with sebum (oil) and stick to the scalp in clusters; itchy

Posterior auricular (pos-TER-e-or aw-RIK-u-lar) artery – Supplies blood to the scalp above and behind the ears Posterior auricular nerve – Extends to the muscles behind and below the ear Posterior dilatator naris – One of the four muscles located inside the nose, controls contraction and expansion of the nostrils Postpartum alopecia – The temporary hair loss at the conclusion of pregnancy Posture – The position of the body while standing, sitting and moving Potential hydrogen (pH) – Unit of measurement that determines if a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline Powder-dry shampoo – Used to cleanse the hair of clients whose health prohibits them from receiving a wet shampoo service Powders – Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do not dissolve in water and that have been sifted and mixed until free of coarse, gritty particles Prebooking – The act of making a future appointment for a client after their present service is complete

Plain shampoo – Used to cleanse normal hair but not recommended for chemically treated or damaged hair

Premise insurance – A policy that covers the actual salon equipment and physical location in case of natural disasters, fire, theft or burglary, or accidents occurring at the business

Plasma – The fluid part of the blood in which red and white blood cells and blood platelets are suspended, to be carried throughout the body by this liquid’s flow; plasma is about 90% water

Pressing and curling – A natural way to straighten tightly curled hair by pressing the hair straight with a pressing comb and curling with marcel irons

Plastic cap – Covers hair to allow deeper penetration of conditioning treatment

Pressing oil – Prepares and protects hair during pressing service; helps prevent scorching and breakage; conditions and adds shine; helps hair stay pressed longer

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Primary colors – Yellow, red and blue; cannot be created by mixing together any other colors Primary health hazards – The improper public hygiene practices that endanger the public like: impure air from poor ventilation, inadequate lighting, improper disinfection practices, and improper storage or use of food Primer – A solution that ensures adhesion of acrylic product to nail Prism – A three-sided glass object that produces individual wavelengths when white light passes through it Procerus (pro-SER-us) – Muscle located between the eye brows across the bridge of the nose; draws brows down and wrinkles the area across the bridge of the nose Product liability insurance – Protection for the salon owner regarding the sale and use of professional products from the client Professional development – A commitment to constantly improving oneself Professional ethics – The proper conduct one displays in relationships with employer, co-workers and clients Profit – Occurs when the salon income is more than the cost of doing business Progression – A pattern in which an element changes gradually in an ascending or descending scale Projection – Also known as elevation; the angle at which the hair is held in relation to the curve of the head prior to cutting Promotional literature – Flyers, newsletters or post cards with information about a salon operation Pronator – Muscle that turns the palm inward and down; located in forearm Properties of matter – Characteristics such as color, weight, odor, hardness or softness

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Pustules – Small elevations of skin similar to vesicles in size and shape, but containing pus; a pimple with pus is an example of a pustule Q

Quadratus labii (kwod-RA-tus LA-be) inferioris – (also known as the Depressor Labii Inferioris) Muscle located below the lower lip; pulls the lower lip down or to the side, as in expressing sarcasm Quadratus labii (kwod-RA-tus LA-be) superioris – (also known as the Levatator Labii Superioris) Muscle located above the upper lip; raises both the nostrils and the upper lip, as in expressing distaste R

Radial artery – The artery that supplies blood to the arm and the thumb side of the hand Radial nerve – Extends down the thumb side of the arm into the back of the hand Radius (RAD-e-us) – The small bone on the thumb side of the lower arm or forearm Rake comb – A comb used to remove tangles from hair; also used to style curly hair and define texture Razor – Implement used to create a tapered effect on the edge of each strand, which produces a softer, somewhat diffused line; the razor consists of a blade and usually a guard, which is used to protect you from coming in direct contact with the edge of the blade; the shank is used to hold the razor, while the handle, which is sometimes foldable, is used to rest your fingers; the tang is used to rest the little finger Razor etching – A technique in which the ends of the hair are carved into with a razor using a back-and-forth motion Razor rotation – Performed by rotating the razor and comb along the hair strand to remove weight

Proportion – All parts and components coming together into a total image

RDA (Recommended Dietary Allowances) – The appropriate nutrient intake for people in the U.S. established by the U.S. government

Protection – The skin’s ability to shield the body from the direct impact of heat, cold, bacteria and other aspects of the environment that could be detrimental to one’s health

Ready buyer – An open-minded buyer who will take a chance on new products without hesitation Receptors – Nerve cells located in the papillary layer of the dermis

Protein – Positively charged particle in the nucleus of an atom; energy nutrient in food, protein makes up 10% of the RDA guidelines

Rectangle perm pattern – 9-block; consists primarily of rectangular shapes throughout the pattern; most basic perm pattern

Proton – Positively charged particle in the nucleus of an atom

Red corpuscles – Erythrocytes or red blood cells; contain hemoglobin and carry oxygen

Protoplasm (PRO-to-plazm) – Gel-like substance found in cells containing water, salt and nutrients obtained from food Pseudomonacidal – Disinfectant designed to kill pseudomonas Psoriasis (soh-REYE-ah-sis) – Round, dry patches of skin, covered with rough, silvery scales; condition is chronic and not contagious Pterygium (te-RIJ-e-ge-uhm) – Refers to the living skin that becomes attached to the nail plate either at the eponychium (dorsal pterygium) or the hyponychium (inverse pterygium) Public hygiene – The codes of safety that protect the well being of the public; example code areas include ventilation, lighting and disinfection Pulmonary circulation – The system that allows blood to travel through the pulmonary artery to the lungs where it is oxygenated (combined with oxygen)

Rectifier – Changes alternating current to direct current

Referrals – Clients sent to the cosmetologist by clients telling their friends about the cosmetologist’s reputation Reflex – Action caused by interaction of sensory and motor nerves Regulation – The skin’s ability to help maintain the body’s temperature Relaxer – A chemical used to soften the disulfide bond in a hair straightening procedure Relaxer retouch – Uses the same procedure as a virgin application, except that the product is applied only to the new growth area at the scalp Repetition – Design principle; a pattern in which an element is identical S A LO N F U N DA M E N TA L S CO S M E TO LO GY

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Reproductive system – Responsible for the process by which a living organism procreates others of its kind.

Salon research factors – Important factors in the success of a salon are location, market and cost of improvements

Resistance – The measure of how difficult it is to push electrons through a conductor; also called impedance

Salt bond – Side bond that helps organize protein chains

Respect – Honor; esteem Respiratory system – Responsible for the intake of oxygen and the exhalation of carbon dioxide Resumé – A document describing one’s attributes in a brief, concise manner, including personal data, educational background, employment and skills Ribs – Twelve bones of the chest Ridge curls – Pincurls placed behind a fingerwave ridge; two sets of ridge curls create a skip wave Right atrium or auricle – Upper chamber of the heart Right ventricle – Lower chamber of the heart Ringed hair – Alternating bands of gray and dark hair Rinse – Helps close the cuticle of hair and makes hair feel soft and manageable Rinsing – Removes excess waving (or reforming) solution from the hair before neutralizing or rebonding Risorius ( re-SOR-e-us) – Muscle located at the corner of the mouth; draws the mouth up and out, as in grinning Roller – A cylindrical hairstyling tool of various diameters and lengths on which hair is wound to create various hairstyles Romantic style – Clients who like silk, flower prints, lace, beads and pastel shades of color

Sanitation – The process of removing dirt to aid in preventing the growth of microbes; it is the first level of infection control; sanitation methods clean and reduce microbes on the surface but do not kill germs Saprophytes – Nonpathogenic bacteria that live on dead matter and do not produce disease Saturated solution – Solution that cannot take or dissolve any more solute than it already holds Scabies – Medical term for itch mite; red and watery vesicles or pusfilled areas caused by an animal parasite Scales – Shedding, dead cells of the uppermost layer of the epidermis Scalp toner – Adds a refreshing, stimulating feeling to the scalp; may have mild antiseptic properties and cleansing ability Scapula (SKAP-yu-lah) – The large, flat bone extending from the middle of the back upward to the joint where it attaches to the clavicle Scars – Formations resulting from a lesion, which extend into the dermis or deeper, as part of the normal healing process; keloids are thick scars Sculptured nails – A nail extension produced with a nail form rather than a tip; can be applied faster and used as an alternative to tips and overlays; sculptured nails are created by combining two ingredients, which are the polymer and the monomer Seasonal disease – Disease influenced by the weather

Rosacea (ro-ZA-sha) – A chronic inflammatory congestion of the cheeks and nose, observed as redness, with papules and sometimes pustules present; also called acne rosacea

Sebaceous (sih-BAY-shus) glands – Oil glands; partially con trolled by the nervous system; sac-like glands that are attached to hair follicles; results in oily skin when an over-abundance of sebum is produced by the glands

Round brushes – Brushes that impart varying degrees of curved or curled texture and volume; comes in various diameters

Seborrhea (seb-oh-REE-ah) – A condition caused by excessive secretion of the sebaceous glands

Round facial shape – The round face has a low, round hair line and a short chin with a very rounded jaw line; it appears to be rather short and wide rather than long and narrow

Secondary colors – Orange, green and violet; when primary colors are mixed in varying proportions; orange contains varying amounts of red and yellow; green contains varying proportions of blue and yellow, and violet contains varying proportions of red and blue

S

Sectioning – The division of the head into workable areas for the purpose of control in a haircutting service

Salary – Compensation system that guarantees a set income on a weekly or monthly basis Salary plus commission – Guarantees a certain amount of money on a regular basis and allows for additional payment based on the number of clients brought in Salivary (SAL-i-ver-e) gland – A gland in the mouth that produces saliva Salon design – The layout of a salon, including the amount of space needed for each stylist, reception area, dispensary, restroom, service areas and efficient traffic patterns Salon Ecology – The study of the ways to keep the larger, expanded environment of the salon in balance to guarantee the well-being and safety of all involved

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Semi-hand-tied wig – Combination of hand-tied and machinemade wig and hairpiece Semi-permanent colors – Direct-dye colors that need no mixing; the color you see in the bottle is the color that is deposited on the hair; alkaline and generally last through several shampoos, depending on the porosity of the hair; deposit color and cannot lighten the hair Sensation – Feelings generated by the nerve ending just under the outer layer of the skin that makes you aware of heat, cold, touch, pain and pressure; the reaction to a sensation is called a reflex Sensory nerves – Also called afferent nerves; carry messages to the brain and spinal cord; determine the sense of touch, sight, smell, hearing and taste Series wiring – Travels from one load to the next forcing the user to have all loads running at the same time

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Serratus anterior (ser-RA-tus an-TER-e-er) – Muscle located under the arm; this muscle helps in lifting the arm and in breathing Seventh cranial nerve – The main motor nerve of the face; also known as the facial nerve Shampoo – Used to clean hair and scalp and remove foreign matter Shampoo bowl – Supports client’s neck and holds water and shampoo products during a shampoo service Shampoo chair – Allows client to sit or lay down during the shampoo service Shampoo dispensary – Displays shampoos and conditioners Shape – Two-dimensional figure consisting of points, lines and angles Shaving – A hair removal method using an electric shaver, clipper or razor Shears – A haircutting implement used to create a clean, blunt edge or line; a pair of shears consists of a still or stationary blade, which is controlled by a finger grip, and a moveable or action blade, which is controlled by the thumb grip

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Slithering – A haircutting technique in which the shears are opened and closed rhythmically while moving upward from the ends; also referred to as effilating Sloughing lotion – A lotion that removes dead skin cells Small intestine – Part of the intestine between the stomach and large intestine, where assimilation of nutrients begins Soaking solution – Liquid antibacterial soap used with warm water in finger bowl to soften skin, loosen dirt and aid in pushing back cuticle Soap – Mixtures of fats and oils converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified Soapless shampoo – Used to cleanse hair with either soft or hard water Social security tax – A planned savings/retirement fund for every worker in the United States Sodium hydroxide – Relaxer chemical with a high oil content (the base) and conditioning agents that help protect the hair and scalp from irritation; also known as lye relaxer; pH of 11.5-14

Shear-over-comb – A cutting technique using a straight shear or taper shear in which both the shear and comb move upward in unison

Soft press – Pressing action that uses less heat and pressure

Shell orbit – The part of an atom where electrons spin around the nucleus

Sole proprietorship – A business owned by one person who is in complete control of the business

Shifted distribution – When the hair is combed out of natural distribution in any direction except perpendicular to its parting

Solid – Form of matter having definite weight, volume and shape

Short circuit – Occurs anytime a foreign conductor comes in contact with a wire carrying current to the load Side bond – Bond formed when amino acids are lined up side by side Single-prong clips – Implements used to secure pincurls Sinusodial Current – An alternating current with a mechanical effect Skeletal system – The physical foundation of the body, composed of 206 bones of different shapes and sizes, each attached to others at movable or immovable joints Skin – The largest organ of the body, covers nearly 20 square feet of the body surface and protects it from invasion from outside particles Skin patch test – A test to determine how a permanent, aniline derivative tint will react on the client; the intended formula is applied inside the elbow or behind the ear and evaluated in 24 hours for negative (no signs) results or positive (signs of redness, swelling, blisters, itching or burning of the skin and /or respiratory distress) reactions Skin tags – Small elevated growths of skin Skip waves – A wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and flat pincurls Skull – The skeleton of the head that encloses and protects the brain and primary sensory organs Sleep recommendation – Six to eight hours per night are recommended to maintain a healthy lifestyle Slicing – A hair coloring technique in which a section of hair is positioned over a piece of paper or thermal strip and color is applied

Soft water – Rain water or water with very small amounts of minerals

Solid form – Haircuts that have a totally smooth cut texture, which is achieved by cutting the hair in natural fall with 0° projection. Also known as a one-length cut, bob, dutch boy, blunt cut or 0° angle cut Solute – Any substance that dissolves into a liquid to form a solution Solution – Mixtures of two or more kinds of molecules, evenly dispersed Solvent – Any substance that is able to dissolve another substance Source – Provides the force to move electrons in conducting material in an electric current Spatulas - Implement used to remove product from container Speed dry – Drying agent; spray or polish that aids in fast drying of polish SPF – Sun protection factor; rating system for sunscreen to determine how long one can stay out in the sun without burning Sphenoid (SPE-noid) – Bone located behind the eyes and nose; connects all the bones of the cranium Spinal cord – Composed of long nerve fibers; originates in the base of the brain and extends to the base of the spine; holds 31 pairs of spinal nerves that branch out to muscles, internal organs and skin Spiral bricklay perm pattern – Horizontal rows that are subdivided in a staggered bricklay pattern; tools are positioned vertically within square bases Spiral wrap – A method of wrapping hair around a perm tool baseto-ends and ends-to-base Spirilla (speye-RIL-a) – Spiraled, coiled, corkscrew-shaped bacterial cells that cause highly contagious diseases such as syphilis and cholera Spray gel – A product used to support volume and movement; firmer hold than lotion; liquid consistency

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Spray-on colors – Come in an aerosol can in a multitude of colors and are a quick and easy way to add color to the hair for special effects Squamous (SQUAW-mus) cells – Cells with a flat, scale-like appearance; found in the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet (stratum lucidum)

Streptococci (strep-to-KOK-si) – Pus-forming bacterial cells that form in long chains and can cause septisemia (sometimes called poisoning), strep throat, rheumatic fever and other serious infections Striated muscle – Voluntary muscle; responds to commands regulated by will

Square combination form – Also known as a box cut; uniform at center top to increase layered at front and crown; graduated and uniform sides and back

Structure – In haircutting, structure refers to the arrangement of lengths across the various curves of the head, such as shorter on top to longer at the bottom or nape

Square facial shape – The square face is short and wide; it looks very angular with a lot of straight lines; the front hairline and jaw line is almost horizontal while the cheekbones protrude very little on the sides

Stubborn buyer – A skeptical buyer who puts up a struggle and has a strong desire to debate with the seller

Staphylococci (staf-i-lo-KOK-si) – Pus-forming bacterial cells that form grape-like bunches or clusters and are present in abscesses, pustules and boils Steatoma (stee-ah-TOH-mah) – A sebaceous cyst or wen; a subcutaneous tumor of the sebaceous gland, filled with sebum Stem – The part of a curl between the scalp and the first turn of the curl Sterilization – The most effective level of infection control; sterilization procedures kill or destroy all microbes Sternocleido mastoideus (stur-no-KLI-do mas-TOID-e-us) – Muscle that extends along the side of the neck from the ear to the collarbone and causes the head to move from side to side and up and down, as in nodding “yes” or “no” Sternum – Two of the bones of the chest Stomach – Organ that digests food

Styling lotion – A product used to support volume and movement; liquid consistency Styptic product – Liquid or spray product used to stop bleeding Styrofoam heads – A head form used to store and display wigs Subcutaneous layer (tissue) – Fatty layer below the dermis of the skin; protective cushion for the skin; acts as a shock absorber to protect the bones and to help support the delicate structures such as blood vessels and nerve endings Subjective symptoms – Signs of a disorder or disease that are felt but not necessarily visible; for example, itching, burning Submental artery – Supplies the chin and lower lip Sudoriferous (soo-dohr-IF-er-us) glands – Controlled by the nervous system of the body; each gland consists of a coiled base and tube-like duct opening on the surface of the skin to form sweat pore; control and regulate body temperatures; excrete waste products; help to maintain the acidic pH factor of the skin

Straight back bend – A bend at the hips instead of the waist

Sugaring – A hair removal technique that utilizes a paste made primarily of sugar that is applied to the skin in a rolling motion

Straightening or flat irons – Consist of two flat, heated plates

Sulfur – One of five elements that make up hair

Straight profile – A straight profile has a very slight outward curvature from the front hairline to the tip of the nose and from the tip of the nose to the chin

Supercillia – The hair of the eyebrows

Straight rods – Produce curls or waves that are uniform throughout the hair strands Strand test – A preliminary color test performed 24-48 hours before the actual hair color service; the intended color formula is mixed and applied to a section of hair to predict the final results Stratum corneum – The uppermost layer of the epidermis; the toughest layer, composed of keratin protein cells that are continually shed and continually replaced by new cells from below Stratum germinativum – The lowest level of the epidermis where mitosis or cell division takes place; begins with the stratum basale, or basal cell layer, which is a single layer thick Stratum granulosum – The layer of the epidermis below the stratum lucidum and above the stratum spinosum; in this layer the cells become more regularly shaped and look like many tiny granules Stratum lucidum – The layer of the epidermis just below the stratum corneum; it is the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, where there are no hair follicles Stratum spinosum – The layer of the epidermis just above the stratum germinativum; sometimes considered part of the stratum germinativum; includes cells that have absorbed melanin to distribute pigmentation to other cells 384

Superficial temporal (su-pur-FI-shul TEM-po-ral) –Artery that supplies the sides and top of the head with blood and branches farther into five smaller arteries that supply more precise locations Superior labial – Artery that supplies the upper lip and septum Superioris (super-e-OR-es) – Located above or is larger Supinator (SU-pi-nat-or) – Muscle that runs parallel to the ulna; this muscle turns the palm of the hand up Supraorbital artery – Supplies blood to parts of the forehead and eyes Supraorbital nerve – Extends to the skin of the upper eyelid, eyebrow, forehead and scalp Supratrochlear nerve – Extends to the skin of the upper side of the nose and between the eyes Surfactant – Used to remove oil from hair; also called surface active agent Suspension – Mixtures of two or more kinds of molecules that will separate if left standing Switch – A long weft of one to three swatches of hair, mounted on a loop base, worn primarily as a braid or ponytail Symmetrical balance – Created when weight is positioned equally on both sides of a center axis, creating a mirror image

GLOSSARY

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Systemic cause – Meaning throughout the system; causes are internal; related to illness, nutrition or heredity Systematic circulation – The process of blood traveling from the heart throughout the body and back to the heart Systems – Group of body structures and/or organs that together perform one or more vital functions for the body T

Tact – The act of saying the proper thing to a person without giving offense Tail comb – A comb used to section, part and distribute the hair during styling Taper shears – A haircutting implement used to create a distinct and regular alternation of shorter and longer lengths for mobility; one blade of the taper shear is straight and the other is notched (serrated); also called thinning shears; taper shears come in various sizes, such as with teeth 1/8” apart, 1/16” apart, 1/32” apart and with wider notches called channeling shears that produce dramatic chunky effects Tapotement (tah-POHT-mant) – Also called percussion or hacking; light tapping or slapping movement applied with the fingers or partly flexed fingers; used on the arms, back and shoulders Teamwork – The act of considering and cooperating with others Telogen – The resting stage of hair growth when each bulb has no attached root sheath, at which time hair falls out; eventually, cell division is again stimulated, producing new hair, and the growth cycle starts again Telogen effluvium – Premature shedding of hair in the resting phase (telogen) resulting from various causes such as childbirth, shock, drug intake, fever, etc. Temporal (TEM-poh-ral) – The two bones located on either side of the head, directly above the ears and below the parietal bones Temporalis (tem-po-RA-lis) – Muscle located above and in front of the ear; performs both opening and closing the jaw, as in chewing (mastication) Temporal nerve – Extends to the muscles of the temple, the side of the forehead, the eyebrows, eyelid and upper cheek Temporary colors – Used to create temporary changes that last from shampoo to shampoo; non-reactive, direct dyes, which means no chemicals are needed to develop them Tendonitis – A condition that occurs when tendons in the hand and fingers get inflamed Tertiary colors – Created by mixing primary colors with their neighboring secondary color in varying proportions; there are six tertiary colors: yellow-orange, yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet and red-orange Tesla Current – High frequency current known as the violet ray Test curl – A test to determine complete processing of a perm; positive test shows an “S” pattern Texture – The degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair fiber; as a design element, texture identifies the surface appearance of the hair, whether it is curly or straight, smooth or layered; in haircutting texture refers to the hair’s surface appearance as unactivated (smooth) or activated (rough)

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Texturizing – Sometimes referred to as thinning, involves cutting shorter lengths within the form to reduce bulk and create support, closeness, fullness, mobility and visual texture in the haircut Thermal equipment – Used to generate heat (for example, curling irons, heat lamps, color machines, manicure heaters, facial steamers, and scalp steamers) Thermal irons – Tool used to temporarily add texture to hair or straighten hair Thermal styling – The technique of drying and/or styling hair by using a hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers, a variety of brushes, pressing comb and/or a thermal curling iron Thermolysis – High frequency/short wave method of permanent hair removal Thinning hair shampoo – Used to cleanse the hair without weighing it down Thioglycolate – The main ingredient found in alkaline perms Thoracic (tho-RAS-ik) vertebrae (VURT-e-bray) – One of the bones of the bony cage that encloses and protects the heart, lungs and other internal organs Thorax (THO-raks) – The bony cage composed of the spine, vertebrae, sternum and the ribs; also known as the chest Threading – An ancient method of hair removal that utilizes 100% cotton thread that is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin Three-sectioning – An effective way of measuring the proportions of the face; section one – the front hairline to the middle of the eyebrows; section two – the middle of the eyebrows to the tip of the nose and section three – the tip of the nose to the tip of the chin Three-strand overbraid – Braiding technique that produces a braid that is raised by crossing the outside strands under the center strands; also known as the French or invisible braid Three-strand underbraid – Braiding technique that produces a braid that is raised by crossing the outside strands under the center strand; also known as cornrow braiding Three-wire system – A three-prong plug serving as a safety device; added to appliances to act as grounding wire Thrombocytes (Clot) – Blood platelets; responsible for the clotting of blood, starting the process of coagulation (clotting) when they are exposed to air or rough surfaces (bruised skin) Tinea (TIN-ee-ah) – Medical term for ringworm; red, circular patch of small blisters; caused by a vegetable parasite Tinea capitis – Medical term for ringworm of the scalp; enlarged open hair follicles that are surrounded by clusters of red spots (papules); hair is likely to break in area infected Tinea favosa (fa-VO-sah) or Favus (FAY-vus) – Medical term for honeycomb ringworm; dry, yellow, encrusted areas on the scalp called scutula (SKUT-u-la); may have a peculiar odor; shiny pink or white scars may result Tinea manus – Ringworm of the hand Tinea pedis (PED-is) – Athlete’s foot or ringworm of the feet Tinea unguim (UN-gwee-um) – Ringworm of the nail; also called unguis (UN-gwees)

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Tint back – Coloring the hair back to its natural color Tissues – Groups of cells of the same kind performing a specific function in the body Toenail clipper – Clippers used to shorten toenails Toe separators – Separates toes during polish technique; made of foam, rubber or cotton Tone – Identifies the warmth or coolness of a color

Tucks – Alterations made horizontally to shorten a wig from the front to the nape Tumors – Solid masses in the skin; may be soft or hard, depending upon their makeup, and may be fixed or freely movable; generally have a rounded shape; a nodule is a small tumor Turbinal (TUR-bi-nal) – Two spongy bones that form the sides of the nasal cavity

Toner – Skin care product used to purify the skin and restore pH

Tweezers – Small metal implements used to remove hair; implement used to manage detail work such as nail art

Toners – Light pastel colors used to tone prelightened hair; used to deposit color and neutralize unwanted pigment after prelightening, such as brassy golds or yellows

Tweezing – A hair removal method that uses tweezers; commonly used to remove unwanted hair from smaller areas, such as eyebrows, chin or around the mouth

Top coat or sealer – Colorless hard polish that protects colored polish from chipping, fading and peeling

Two-way communication – The act of listening and asking questions to gather information

Total assets – All property owned by an individual

T-zone – Oily residue of the skin on the chin, nose, nasal labial groove and forehead

Toupee – A hairpiece worn by men to cover bald or thinning hair spots, particularly on top of the head Tourniquet – Device for stopping bleeding by compressing a blood vessel Towels – Absorbant material used to protect the client’s skin and clothing; also used to dry the hair Track and sew – A hair addition technique in which a three strand, on-the-scalp braid is used as a support structure to which a hair weft (a strip of human or artificial hair) is then sewn

U

Ulcers – Open lesions visible on the skin surface that may result in the loss of portions of the dermis and may be accompanied by pus Ulna (UL-nah) – The bone located in the little finger side of the lower arm Ulnar artery – An artery that supplies blood to the arm and small finger side of the hand

Traction or traumatic alopecia – Hair loss due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting

Ulnar nerve – Extends down the little finger side of the arm into the palm of the hand

Transverse artery – Supplies the masseter

UL rating – Underwriter’s Laboratory designation; means the appliance has been certified to operate safely under the conditions the instructions specify

Trapezius (trah-PE-ze-us) and latissimus dorsi (lah-TIS-i mus DOR-se) – Muscle that covers the back of the neck and upper back; these muscles draw the head back, rotate the shoulder blades and control swinging of the arm Triadic color – Color schemes using three colors located in a triangular position on the color wheel Triangularis (tri-an-gu-LAR-us) – (also known as the Levator Anguli Oris) Muscle located below the corners of the mouth; draws the corners of the mouth down, as in expressing depression Tricep (TRI-cep) – Muscle that extends the length of the upper arm to the forearm; this muscle controls forward movement of the forearm

Ultrasonic cleaners – Use high-frequency sound waves to create a cleansing action that cleans areas on implements or tools that are difficult to reach with a brush Ultraviolet light therapy – The use of ultraviolet light rays to produce both positive and negative effects on the skin; depending on the exposure time can tan the skin and produce vitamin D Ultraviolet rays – A shorter wavelength and can be more damaging than infrared rays; also know as actinic rays

Trichology – The technical term for the study of hair

Underbevel – Cutting technique that turns the ends of the hair under; hair in the nape is shorter than the surface lengths

Trichoptilosis – Fragilitis crinium or brittle hair; technical name for split ends

Underdirected – The tool or curl sits in the lower portion of the base, but not on or below the parting

Trichorrhexis nodosa (TRIK-o-rek-sis no-DO-sa) – Knotted hair, characterized by the presence of lumps or swelling along the hair shaft

Underdirected tool position – Base size is at least 1.5 diameters; tool is positioned in the lower half of the base to achieve moderate lift

Trifacial (trigeminal) nerve – The largest of the cranial nerves, responsible for transmitting facial sensations to the brain and for controlling the muscle movements of chewing (mastication)

Undulating irons – Consist of two undulating or curved irons that create an “S” pattern

Trimmer – Implement used to outline the hairline, beard and sideburns Tubercle – A large papule; hardened red elevation of the skin with no fluid present Tuberculocidal – Disinfectant designed to kill tuberculosis microbes

Uniformly layered form – A form with a totally activated texture; also known as a layered cut or 90 degree angle cut Universal precautions – The practice of using infection control procedures for all clients, regardless of their health history Universal solvent – Capable of dissolving more substances than any other; water is considered a universal solvent Unstable atom – Results when electrons are missing from the outer shell of an atom

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V

Vacuum – Creates mild suction; increases circulation to the surface Vagus – tenth cranial nerve; helps regulate heartbeat Van der Waal’s forces – Side bond based on the theory that atomic groups prefer an environment with other groups that have structures similar to theirs; this type of bonding is of no importance to the cosmetologist Variable rent – Monthly rent that varies with the amount of income generated by the salon; normally found in malls and larger shopping centers Varicose veins – Bulges that form if veins stretch and lose their elasticity Vascular system – Circulatory system; responsible for circulation of the blood; includes heart, arteries, veins and capillaries Vegetable dyes – Natural products to color the hair; henna is an example of a vegetable dye that produces reddish highlights in the hair; considered a less professional category of hair color Veins – Tubular, elastic, thin-walled branching vessels that carry the blood from the capillaries to the heart Vellus – Hair that covers most of the body, including the head; often not visible to the naked eye Vent brush – A brush used to achieve lift or volume when air forming smoother textures or creating directional emphasis Ventilation – The opening for the escape and exchange of air so that the air does not have a stale, musty odor or contain the odor of sprays, bleaches and various chemical solutions Verbal communication – Refers to how one speaks by emphasizing the meaning of what one says through the tone or inflection of voice, level and rate of speech Verbal energy – The ability to speak up clearly with a good rate, inflection and tone Verruca – A name give to a variety of warts Vertical lines – Lines that go straight up and down. These lines create a feeling of weightlessness or equilibrium, as with a standing human body Vesicles – Fluid-filled elevations in the skin caused by localized accumulation of fluids or blood just below the epidermis Vibration (vi-BRAY-shun) – Shaking movement; your arms shake as you touch the client with your fingertips or palms Villi (VIL-i) – Finger-like projections of the intestine walls Vinegar and lemon rinse – Used to keep the cuticle compact, remove soap scum, return the hair to its pH balance and counteract the alkalinity present after a chemical service Virgin relaxer – A chemical relaxer applied to untreated or “virgin” hair to the most resistant area and 1” (1.25 cm) away from the scalp and up to the porous ends Virucidal – Disinfectant designed to kill viruses Virus – Sub-microscopic particles that cause familiar diseases like the common cold and other respiratory and gastrointestinal infections, chicken pox, mumps, measles, small pox, yellow fever, rabies, HIV (AIDS), hepatitis and polio

FUN DA M EN TA L S

Viscosity – A descriptive term identifying the thickness of a solution Visible light – The portion of the electromagnetic spectrum humans can see Visible light therapy – The use of visible or white light in therapy procedures to allow absorption or reflection by the skin or body Vitiligo (vit-i-LYE-goh) – Characterized by oval or irregular patches of white skin that do not have normal pigment Volt – A unit of electric pressure Voluntary or striated (STRI-at-ed) muscles – Muscles that respond to commands regulated by will Vomer (VO-mer) – The bone in the center of the nose that divides the nasal cavity; also called the Nasal System W

Wall plate – A portable appliance that reduces power to an appliance. Warm colors – Orange, red and yellow range of the color wheel; longer waves of the warm colors strike the retina of the eye in a way that affects the focus of the lens and causes the blood pressure to rise slightly and the pulse to quicken Warts – A skin growth caused by a virus; can be contagious and can spread all over the body Watt – A measure of how much electrical energy is being used Wave or styling clamp – Implements used to keep finger waves in place Waxing – A temporary hair removal method of applying hot or cold wax to skin, allowing the wax to adhere to the skin and finally pulling off the wax/hair Weaving – The use of a tail comb to weave out selected strands of hair in an alternating pattern for the application of hair color Wet disinfectant container – A container with disinfectant solution into which tools and implements are completely immersed Wheals – A solid formation above the skin, often caused by an insect bite or allergic reaction; hives, also called Urticaria (ur-ti-KAR-e-uh), are an example of wheal lesions White corpuscles – Leukocytes or white blood cells; fight bacteria and other foreign substances Whorl – Strong circular directional growth of hair on either side of the nape or crown Widow’s peak – Prominent hair growth pattern that forms from a point at the front hairline and curves to one side Wig – A head covering designed to cover the entire head and worn for specific purposes; made of human hair, animal hair, synthetic fibers or a blend of each Wig block – Canvas-covered wig form used during wig blocking (sizing) services Wig cap – Holds client’s hair in place and helps wigs to stay in place Wiglet – A hairpiece usually worn to create fullness or height at the top or crown area of the head; consists of hair fiber usually six inches or less in length attached to a round-shaped, flat base

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Wig pins – Used to hold wigs and hairpieces in place on canvas block during settling, cleaning and maintenance services Wood’s lamp – A lamp with ultraviolet light used for analysis of skin surface and deeper layers to aid in determining skin treatment Word-of-mouth advertising – An effective way of building clientele when satisfied customers recommend your services to others Workers’ compensation insurance – A state-controlled insurance required by law to protect employees if injured in the salon Wrapped or fiberglass nails – A piece of fiberglass applied over the natural nail or tips reinforced with a resin (thick adhesive) and then hardened with a catalyst and finally filed and buffed smooth to produce a natural-looking nail Z

Zygomatic (zi-go-MAT-ik) or malar (MA-ler) – The two bones that form the upper cheeks and the bottom of the eyesockets Zygomatic nerve – Extends to the side of the forehead, temple and upper part of the cheek Zygomaticus (zi-go-MAT–ik-us) – Muscle located outside the corners of the mouth; draws the mouth up and back, as in laughing

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Unit 1

T h e o r y E s s e n ti a l s

1 - Professional Development 2 - Salon Ecology 3 - Anatomy and Physiology 4 - Electricity 5 - Chemistry 6 - Salon Business

Unit 2

Hair Services

7 - Trichology 8 - Design Decisions 9 - Haircutting 10 - Hairstyling 11 - Wigs and Hair Additions 12 - Chemical Texturizing 13 - Hair Coloring

Unit 3

Nail and Skin Services

14 - The Study of Nails 15 - The Study of Skin

2 SF01V2TSG ©Pivot Point International, Inc. www.pivot-point.com Printed in Hong Kong