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PATTERN MAGIC Tomoko Nakamichi

Bra

>»

*

Using

this

At the beginning of of a garment and

book (page

7)

pattern pieces.

A

this

flat

book I

explained about the relationship between the three-dimensional structure

major objective when making garments for

women

is

not only that they

fit

properly but that they also look attractive. For this reason, garment design will never cease to exist and provide endless enjoyment.

I

hope the pattern-making method

silhouette or design detail,

The

pattern drafting

(block) for adult dress

and that you learn from the

and manipulation

women

I

introduce here

ideas in this

for the design of garments in this

(Japanese ‘M’

size:

scale dress

form helps

its

surface area

is

down

scaled

to understand the overall balance

construction of a pattern in an easy-to-follow way, actually constructing the

Abbreviations used

in

new methods

find

that

work

for you.

are based on the Bunka-style sloper

book

All the

in

measurements on

to a quarter

and

this dress

volume

its

and look of a garment. As

form are

half that

to one-eighth. Using a half-

my

objective

was

to explain the

have omitted pattern markings such as facing lines used for

I

garment and the amount of

Symbols used

of use to you in turning an image into a

bust 83cm, waist 64cm, centre back length 38cm), and a half-scale

form for the three-dimensional pattern manipulation.

of a full-sized dress form,

is

book and

fabric required to

make

the garment.

pattern drafting

pattern drafting Line that acts as a guide

BP

Guide

line

Shown by a

when drawing

other

lines.

thin solid line.

Bust Point Line Indicating that

AH

Sector line

equal lengths.

one

line of a fixed

Shown by a

length has been divided into

thin broken line.

Arm Hole Line indicating the finished outline of a pattern.

Finishing line

FAH

a thick solid line or a broken line.

Line indicating

Cut on the fold

BAH Back

Shown by

Arm Hole

Front

Shown by a

where the

fabric

is

to

be cut on the

fold.

thick broken line.

Arm Hole

B

Right angle marking

Bust

W Waist

One-way

pleats

-Ef

‘P-

Draw two diagonal

lines sloping

downwards towards the hem. Shows

Indicates that the cross-wise grain of the fabric runs in the direction of

Grain line

the arrow.

Hip

BL Bust Line

solid line.

that the higher line folds over the lower line.

V

Mid Hip

Shown by a thin

:

\\

MH H

L

Indicates a right angle.

Bias direction

WL

/

Shown by a thick

solid line.

Indicates the direction of the bias of the fabric

Shown by

a thick solid line.

Waist Line

HL

Extension marking

indicates the part to

be

Ease marking

Indicates the part to

be eased.

stretched.

Hip Line EL