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STANDARDIZED BARBERS*

MANUAL Revised

and Adopted by

THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL of the

ASSOCIATED MASTER BARBERS of

AMERICA

PRICE

!• Co

$5.00

TTo, :

Copyright 1911

by A. B.

MOLER

Revised Edition 1920 Revised Edition 1924

Revised Edition 1926 Revised Edition 1927 Revised Edition 1928

REVISED JANUARY

1.

1928

by

THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL of the

ASSOCIATED MASTER BARBERS OF AMERICA

i!

nAR2^7H©CU1068837

is

THE BARBER PROFESSION LIVERY professional should know the history and the individuals who have been or are contributors to the advancement of his profession, therefore the effort has been made to place before you in this Textbook all of the present day national leaders and the organizations which they represent, and to the memory and honor of these men and the organized barber interests of America who have made this edition possible this volume is dedicated.

The

fact that barbering

is

a profession ne-

Textbook, that the student may not only acquire a practical knowledge, but that he may learn the Theoretical, Ethical, Legal and Scientific principles or elements of the profession in order to be skilled cessitates this Standardized

professional practitioners.

The Kansas Supreme Court, in the 63rd Kansas 471, July 6, 1901, held that barbering is a professional service. Among other things the court said: ''Like the surgeon and dentist, when the barber moves he attracts to himself those having confidence in his ability, and the greater his professional skill the more difficult it is to alienate from him those to whom his services have given satisfaction."

CONTENTS Page Pictorial History

Prelude, Barbering Selection and Care of Tools

5

Honing and Stropping

26

Shaving

33

Haircutting

60

Sanitation

110

Electricity

115

Chemistry

118

Anatomy

134

Amplified Facial

156

Facial Treatments

159

Scalp Treatments

179

Hair Dye

204

Ethics and Salesmanship

219

Business

225

Definitions

242

Sponsors of Better Instruction for Barbers

J.

B.

RIGGS

Akron, Ohio

President. Standardised Bar Schools Association

Mr. Riggs has 27 years in the profession to his credit, 15 of which have been spent in the barber school business, as well as two years in the study of medicine.

A. B.

MOLER

Chicago,

Illinois

Secretary -Treasurer, Standardized Barber Schools Association

A. B. Moler bears the distinction of being the founder of the first barber school in the world.

His schools constantly keep abreast of the latest develop ments applicable to the profession.

DR. EDGAR B. WILSON, D. C., Ph. C. The barber profession owes much to Dr. Wilson for the thorough knowledge of the human anatomy and the proper manipulation of the muscles and nervous system which he has been so instrumental in spreadHe is a Doctor of ing throughout the profession. Chiropractic, thus possessing an anatomical understanding that proved of inestimable value while assisting the National Educational Council in promoting its standardized barber school curriculum and program. Dr. Wilson is no stranger to the barber profession,

as he served therein for 25 years before taking his place in the chiropractic field, and to him must be given the credit for the scientific material contained in this textbook.

Origin of Standardized Barber Schools Associated Master Barbers THE Des Moines, Iowa, November,

of

America,

in

convention assembled at

1926, adopted a resolution creating a National Educational Council of three members, with instructions to investigate and determine the methods used by other professions in controlling their educational institutions. C. B. Hypes of Topeka, Kan., C. N. Good of Elgin, 111., and F. H. Tramp of Memphis, Tenn., were elected as members of the Educational Council. The Council organized by selecting C. B. Hypes as Chairman, C. N. Good as Vice-Chairman, and F. H. Tramp as Secretary. This Council made its investigations and submitted its report to the Executive Board on January 16, 1927, and the two foregoing pages contain the

program proposed by the Council and approved by the Executive Board. The National Barber Schools Association, Inc., was formed in Cleveland. Ohio, September 18, 1922. J. B. Riggs of Akron. Ohio, is President, and A. B. Moler of Chicago, 111., is Secretary. This Association meets annually.

Reproduction of Certificate Issued by National Educational Council to Standardized Barber Schools

At a meeting of the National Barber Schools Association of America, held in the Stevens Hotel, Chicago, October 31 and November 1, 2 and 3. 1927, 42 of the leading barber schools of the country signed the Council's contract making the standardized school program a reality. Other schools have since signed the contract until the number is well over half a hundred. For a student to receive a diploma signed and sealed by the National Educational Council it is necessary that he complete the full six-month course in a standardized barber school, and that he then work under an approved Master Barber as an apprentice for 18 months. These regulations are not for the purpose of penalizing or discouraging barber students but to assure them that they will receive adequate and proper instruction and training to make them efficient and professional practitioners. Every student in a standardized barber school should insist upon the school complying with all of the Council requirements as they may affect his education.

(

National Educational

Council

Associated Master Barbers of

c. B.

America

HYPES

Topeka, Kansas

Chairman an advanced thinker and an educational enthusiast, and is responsible for much of the program of the National Educational Council. He was elected chairman of the Council at Des Moines in 1926. Mr. Hypes

is

TRAMP

F. H. Memphis, Tennessee Secretary

Mr.

Tramp was

elected

to

the

Educa-

tional Council in 1926, was made secretary of the body, and was re-elected at the Detroit

convention.

C. N. Elgin,

GOOD Illinois

Vice-Chairman

Mr. Good has always been a consistent advocate of higher education, was elected to the Educational Council at Des Moines in

1926,

and re-elected

vention in 1927.

at the Detroit cor

THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL OF

The

Associated Master Barbers of America

AGREEMENT THIS AGREEMENT, made

this

_

day of

.

,

County of

,

owner and operator

State of

,

192

,

between

of a barber school or college, at

_..,

.

party of the first part,

and The National Educational Council, of The Associated Master Barbers of America (Incorporated), of 440 South Dearborn

St.,

Chicago, Cook County,

WITNESSETH,

Illinois,

party of the second part.

That the said

,

party of the first part,

hereby covenants and agrees, that he will accept, establish, and enforce the Curriculum, Regulations and Supervision (a

copy of which

is

hereto attached- and

made a part

of this agreement) of

The National Educational Council, party of the

second part, in his barber school or college for a period of

And

the said

..year

The National Educational Council, party

from date

of the second part, in consideration of the

performance of this agreement by the said

,

agrees to furnish the said

,

.

prompt and

faithful

party of the first part,

party of the first part, with

a certificate of standardization for said school or college and to permit said school or college to be advertised as a Standardized school or college by and with the consent of TheNational Educational Council, party of the second part, dur ing the

life

of this agreement.

The second party further agrees

to, in

every

way

consistent, to aid

conduct and operation of a standardized barber school or college as

is

and co-operate with said

party in the

first

herein defined and agreed upon.

This agreement shall be binding upon the successors, heirs, executors and assigns of the parties hereto

IN WITNESS year

first

WHEREOF

The parties

to these presents have hereunto set their hands and seals, the

day and

above written

First Party

THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL. Second Party

By

,

,

Attest

Chairman.

Vice Chairman

,

Secretary

THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL The

Associated Master Barbers of America

CURRICULUM, REGULATIONS AND SUPERVISION OF STANDARDIZED BARBER SCHOOLS ENROLLMENT.

—

Preliminary Requirements Over 16 years of age; an eighth grade grammar school education or its equivalent as determined by the Council by an examination; good moral character and temperate habits. Matriculation Tuition fee of not less than $150, payable in advance, or at least $50 in advance and the balance in weekly or monthly installments over a period of six months or less.

—

COURSE.

—

Time Two years is required to complete the course. The first six months must be in the school or college proper as a student apprentice. After six months as a student apprentice, and on making satisfactory grades the 6tudent apprentice shall be advanced to the grade of Junior apprentice and farmed out to an approved Master Barber for practice and to earn wages for six months, when he shall be advanced to the grade of apprentice on a satisfactory showing of skill and knowledge, and continue to practice and earn wages under an approved Master Barber for one year After one year of study and practice as an apprentice under an approved Master Barber, he shall take a final examby the Council and if passing grades are made he shall have issued to him a DIPLOMA of graduation and the BARBER. Said diploma shall designate the school or college with the proper official signatures and seal of the college and the signatures and seal of THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL. Subjects Barbering; Practical; Theoretical; Business and Ethics; Scientific: and Treatments Practical; Shaving; Hair Cutting; Shampooing; and Massage. Theoretical; Personality; Art; and History. Business and Ethics; Bookkeeping; Management. Scientific: Anatomy; Bacteriology; Elementary Chemistry Treatments; Dead Hairs; Acnae; Sycosis; Ringworm; Alopecia; Seborroeh; Eczema; Syphilis; and Sorisis Sub-Subject, Shaving; Tools; Kinds; Materials; and Technic. Hair Cutting; Tools; Kinds; Materials; and Technic. Shampooing: Tools; Kinds; Materials, and Technic Massage: Tools; Kinds; Materials; and Technic. Personality: Education; Sociability; Confidence; Movements; and Touch Art: Contour; Outline; Mental Photography; and Hair Gravitation History: Ancient, Medieval and Modern History of Barbering. Supervision The National Educational Council shall supervise all Standardized schools and colleges, prescribe the curriculum, texts and courses of study, sanitary rules and regulations, hold and pass on all examinations for advancement or graduation, furnish or prescribe application blanks for Master Barber wishing permits to work apprentices and pass on said applications and prescribe such other regulations as supervision may from time to time require. $3.00 . Supervision Fees Preliminary examination for entrance 1.00 _ _ Junior apprentice examination and certificate 1-00 Apprentice examination and certificate 20.00 Barber degree examination and Diploma ination

degree of

—

—

—

.

—

Inspection The National Educational Council shall, by its supervisor, or individually, inspect all standardized schools and colleges and order necessary changes in equipment, conduct or management to meet the Council's requirements, and shall withdraw its supervision and standardization from any institution failing to comply with its require

ments.

INSTRLCTORS.

—

Qualifications All instructors must be of good moral character and temperate habits; free from contagious or infectious diseases, and of clean personal habits and life. All instructors will have six months time, from the date of standardization, to fully equip themselves as standardized instructors; if not already equipped, by taking a course in an approved training school or college of higher instrucion Classification

— Instructors

shall be classified into three classes

viz,

Primary Intermediate, and Advanced

—

Sub-Class Primary: Instruction in practical barbering. Intermediate: Instruction in theoretical and business and ethics of barbering Advanced: Instruction in scientific and treatments of barbering Primary instructors must -also be qualified in the intermediate and advanced class and Intermediate instructors must also be qualified in the primary and advanced, altho they may teach in only one classification, and all must wear the regulation uniform when on duty

INSTRUCTION, tice

Classification— Primary and Demonstrations.

1,000

Hours

750 hours; 5 hours per day for 150 days within a period of not less than six months.

Prac-

Recitations

Intermediate: 100 hours; 2-3 hour per day for 150 days within a period of not less than six months and Lectures. LecAdvanced: 150 hours; 1 hour per day for 150 days within a period of not less than six months Recitations, tures, Demonstrations and Laboratory clinics.

REGULATIONS four semesstandardized barber schools may divide the six months student-apprentice course into full Students leaving school after one semester may return at any time to complete the school in one standardized from a transfer may they course and receive credit for each semester completed; or one standardized school to another city to another city and receive credit for semesters completed, but switching from in the same city will not be allowed without the consent of the supervisor. for students who have not finNo. 2— Standardized schools may establish a preliminary course of instruction the preliminary examination to be conished the eighth grade grammar school requirement, to enable them to make ducted by the Council's Supervisor

No.

ters of six

1— All

weeks each.

:

The Associated Master Barbers

of

America

FOLLOWING

a growing sentiment among leaders in the profession for the organization of a national association, the first convention, which was practically a meeting for organizing purposes, was held at the Sherman Hotel in Chicago, November 17, 18 and 19, 1924. Enthusiasm was the keynote of this convention, and it was plain to be seen that the future of the Immediately after the Chicago convention the organization was assured. work of issuing charters began, and by the time of the Kansas City meeting, a year later, the Associated Master Barbers of America had 2,800 members

on

its rolls.

The 1926 convention was held in Des Moines, Iowa, and that of 1927 at Detroit, Mich. At Detroit the delegates present represented a membership of nearly 10,000, evidence of the recognition by the shop owners of the United States of the need for such a national association and of their increasing support of the organization and the principles upon which it functions. These principles are defined in the preamble to the Constitution and ByWe give them here, of the Associated Master Barbers of America. that the student may become aware of the high ideals which permeate every

Laws

action of the

members

thereof:

The purpose of organizing nationally is to get that strength and intelligent These are unity necessary to accomplish nation-wide needs and reforms. in part as follows That is to say, to implant in all craft First, to elevate craft ideals. workers a higher appreciation of themselves and their work. Second, to increase the phases of shop service (widen the field of service) to promote uniform shop practices and to establish uniform fees for such services throughout the entire country. Third, to promote neighborly tolerance among all branches of chirotonsory. That is, to establish' a working co-operation of barbers, hairdressers and cosmeticians, especially for the purpose of educating the public to a wider appreciation and patronage and to establish uniform, just, nonconflicting laws governing the business. Fourth, to assist toward technical craft education to an extent sufficient to compel, or at least to command and hold public confidence. Fifth, to propagandize the newspaper press of the country through recog-

nized journalistic channels, that

day a stream of reading matter

is,

to inject into the literary current of the

in behalf of

modern chirotonsory.

Sixth, to sustain a line of scientific and economic investigations limits of current research in behalf of the craft.

up

to the

Seventh, to unify the craft by means of full nation-wide mutual information and dependable craft news. Eighth, to declare and make clear that this program is not a program of selfish and commercial interests, but a legitimate cog in the wheel of better things.

Final Declaration the furtherance of these ends The Associated Master Barbers of America declares its determination and its eagerness to co-operate honestly and fairly with all creeds, all organizations, and all crafts connected directly or indirectly with the barbers' work. In

President, Secretary

and Treasurer •C>M-

Associated Master Barbers of America

OTTO EWERT Chicago,

Illinois

General President Springfield, 111., in 1923, Mr. Ewert elected temporary president to form the National Association. At the first na-

At was

tional convention in Chicago in November, 1924, he was elected General President, and has been re-elected at each convention

LOUIS

E.

McILVAIN

Chicago,

Illinois

General Secretary and Organiser At the first national convention, held in

Chicago

in

November,

1924,

Mr. Mcllvain

elected General Organizer, and at the 1925 convention, held in Kansas City, he was elected General Secretary and Organizer. He continues to hold these offices.

was

JAMES

H.

MANTLE

Bloomington,

Illinois

General Treasurer

Mr. Mantle became affiliated with the Associated Master Barbers of America in November, 1924. He was elected treasurer of the national organization at that time, and each succeeding convention has seen him returned to

office.

HENRY WEVER Chicago,

Illinois

Henry Wever was born August 1849, at

youth claimed

29,

Liberty, Ohio. In his early the profession of barbering his

attention, but

saw him turn included

later to other activities,

teaching,

writing,

years

which

selling

in

commercial field, and editorial work. In 1921 he became editor of The Reflector, which was then the name of The Master Barber Magazine and the

Beauty Culturist, and in the years following his contributions to the profession by reason of a tremendous amount of research work, inspired and backed by several years spent in the study of medicine, have been of invaluable aid to the profession in the raising of its

His writings and teachings have brought out a mass of informative data which has in this way been translated into shape for practical use by barbers everywhere, and the inspiration of his teachings has been a beacon light marking the shining goal toward which the face of modern barbering is

standards.

turned.

Their Editorial Pens Have Done

JULE GORDON Des Moines, Iowa Gordon was born in Chicago, September 25, 1900, and was edu-

Jule 111.,

cated at McKinley high school, ChiNorthwestern university, cago, and

Evanston, 111. Mr. Gordon is editor of The Square Deal, a magazine devoted to the barbers and beauty operators of America, published by the Square Deal Publishing Company of Des Moines, Iowa. This publication has a national circulation and has done much to pave the way for nation-wide organization, and Mr. Gordon and his editorials have done much to bring to the barbers of America a realization that a better and higher education is needed in order to secure and hold the confidence of an enlightened public. The barber profession owes much to Mr. Gordon for his untiring selfish

efforts

and

intelligent,

devotion to their cause.

un-

Much

for the

Barber Profession

General Vice-Presidents Associated Master Barbers of America

T. C.

ALDEN WARMELIN

MacDUFFEE

Des Moines, Iowa

Chicago,

Illinois

First Vice-President

Second Vice-President

Mr. MacDuffee joined the Associated Master Barbers of America on January 21, 1926, and was elected as First Vice-

Mr. Warmelin attended the 1924 convention in Chicago, where he was elected Second Vice-President, and he has continued to hold that office.

President at Detroit

in

1927.

ANTHONY PANASCI Buffalo, N.

C. A.

BELMONT

Sacramento, California

Y.

Third Vice-President

Fourth Vice-President

Mr. Panasci was elected Third VicePresident at the second annual convention at Kansas City in 1925, and has been re-elected since.

Mr. Belmont was made Fourth VicePresident of the organization at Kansas City in 1925, and has been returned to office

each year.

Educational

Committee .< u.

National Beauty and Barber Supply Dealers' Association

W.

L.

Peoria,

SCOTT Illinois

Chairman

A. H.

SCHROEDER

Fort Wayne, Indiana

C. A.

GREEN

Lincoln,

Nebraska

The National Beauty and Barber Supalways Association has Dealers' formed a harmonious unit in the cycle which constantly strives to educate the profession as a whole and elevate its status in the world of affairs. ply

To

the Student Barber

'"PHE

ultimate success of our great cause, and the ideals for which it stands, depends qualities, namely, the quality of Confidence, the quality of Courage, and the result of the union of these two qualities, which is Harmony. Each depends on the other, and all three form the perfect triad. They should be acquired by all who wish to succeed in their chosen line of endeavor, and strict adherence to these principles will bring success to him who makes their practice part of his daily conduct. Knowing this, we unhesitatingly recommend them to the students with the hope that they will

on three great

become

his

guiding

spirit all

through

life.

Confidence comes from a complete belief in the justice and virtues of the line of endeavor you are choosing for yourself. It cannot be acquired in ignorance, for ignorRather, it is the result of knowledge, and this essential ance never bred confidence. knowledge of your chosen profession must come from those who have preceded you, and who have, by hard-won experience, gathered that wisdom, so it is the better policy Knowledge is gained by exchange of to heed their teachings and gain profit thereby. thought, and it is only through organization that this can be accomplished. Organization means a method whereby the recipient of that knowledge gains the most from it, to an immeasurably greater extent than could he, as an individual, working alone.

Courage is the result of confidence, and confidence in yourself and your ability will supply the courage which will inspire you, and which will never fail. Confidence is the very foundation of life itself. A man's strength to work and to enjoy his daily existence depends on confidence. A man must have confidence in his home, confidence in his friends and confidence in his business. Applied to business, it is this confidence that supplies the courage to face his every problem with the strength and bearing of a conqueror. The man with confidence is the winner in the great game of life. It existence.

is

the

breath

of

life

of

courage,

its

inspiration,

the

reason for

its

very

If you have confidence and courage you are in harmony with life itself. Harmony means a willingness to submerge self and let common welfare rule supreme. Harmony comes when self is forgotten and the common cause for forward movement becomes the only motive. Harmony means the one accord of each, and all taken together. It is the music of life, the satisfaction of soul which characterizes freedom from all discord

and a united seeing of the common welfare. It is at last the recognition and the appreciation of harmony which completes the circle and governs the working conditions in our great profession.

due recognition of these cardinal principles which supplies the need for and Our organization is built on the foundation-stones of Confidence, Courage and Harmony, and our every effort is to It is the

the existence of the Associated Master Barbers of America.

perpetuate lie

his in in

in practice

These

principles

may have

placed in

the benefits to be derived from their observance.

behind the issuance of this Manual, so that the ambitious student

hands the accumulated knowledge that comes from organization, that he may derive, his status, the incalculable benefits that organization makes possible, and so assimilate his daily duties the inspiring lessons contained in the three principles which are the

constant guide of our organization.

We wish to acknowledge the whole-hearted co-operation of the National Beauty and Barber Supply Dealers' Association in the educational work in which our association is engaged. On the opposite page we reproduce the pictures of the Educational Committee This committee has labored long and well in the work of education of that association. and uplifting of our profession, and is deserving of much praise and the fullest confidence for

its

efforts.

History of State Barber

THE Minnesota

Laws

barber law enacted in the United States was passed in and since that time the following- states have passed Illinois, Wisconsin, Kansas, Maryland, statutes governing the profession Michigan, South Dakota, California, Iowa, Missouri, North Dakota, Colorado, Oregon, Delaware, Utah, Connecticut and Washington. On the following pages are shown pictures of the members of various state boards as of first state

in 1897,

:

January

1,

1928.

The model license law, which is used as a basis for the formulation of beneficial legislation in the various states of the Union, was drafted and approved at a joint session of the general executive boards of the Associated Master Barbers of America and the Journeymen Barbers' International Union of

of America, together with representatives of the National Association Barber and Beauty Culture Schools, in Chicago, Illinois, on Julv 19 and

20, 1926.

ute

The Minnesota law, as passed, provided for was amended in 1921 and again in 1927. The Wisconsin law was passed The Kansas law was enacted Michigan's

one

first

perpetual licenses.

The

stat-

in 1903.

in 1913

and was amended

in 1927.

barber law was passed in 1899, and superseded by a

new

in 1927.

The South Dakota law was passed

The

California law, containing

all

in 1927.

the best features of the model

bill,

was

passed in 1927.

The Iowa

law, passed in 1927, contains

The Missouri law

many

features of the model

bill.

dates back to 1899.

The North Dakota law, enacted in 1927, contains portant features of the model bill. The Colorado law was enacted

many

of the

more im-

in 1909.

The Oregon law was first passed in 1899, amended in 1903, 1905 and 1925. This law was repealed and a model law enacted in 1927. The enactment of legislation looking to the betterment of the barbering profession and the members thereof is the result of organized effort along these lines, and of the combining of many ideas of many supporters of a belief that barbers should and could have these things. That their faith was sound and the labor fruitful may be readily seen today, when from the working of this legislation is apparent the many benefits contained in the various state laws.

IT

PAYS TO LOOK WELL"

MINNESOTA STATE BARBER BOARD

P.

H. TlMMINS

J.

P.

Minneapolis

St.

McGill

ILLINOIS STATE BARBER

Frank

J.

Bishop

J.

Chicago

Walter Dunlop

Paul

H. Hoyt Peoria

Duluth

BOARD

James H. Mantle Bloomington

WISCONSIN STATE BARBER BOARD

Chas. E. Mullen Madison

Wm.

L.

Smith

Milwaukee

John W. Hacker Kenosha

KANSAS STATE BARBER BOARD

H.

P. Miller Topeka

Chas. H. Look

W. M. Roberts

Concordia

Manhattan

MICHIGAN

MARYLAND

Louis Reuling

(

Baltimore

iLenn

Brown

Belding

SOUTH DAKOTA STATE BARBER BOARD

Chas.

P.

Bowell

Aberdeen

Judson Miller Sioux Falls

Foster Rapid City

F. C.

CALIFORNIA STATE BARBER BOARD

J.

T.

Haywood

C. E.

Rynearson

C. L.

Butts

Los Angeles

Marysville

San Francisco

IOWA STATE BARBER BOARD

John

T.

Frank

McGruder

O. Moffitt

Sioux City

Des Moines

MISSOURI STATE BARBER BOARD

John H. Parshall

George A. Luce

Kansas City

Jefferson City

Wm.

F. St.

Rebsamen Louis

NORTH DAKOTA STATE BARBER BOARD

Melvin T. Simley Finley

Calvin P. Wick Fargo

Fred K. Ode Bismarck

COLORADO STATE BARBER BOARD

Carl E. Bruhx Denver

R.

W. LlCHTENHELD Denver

OREGON STATE BARBER BOARD

Roy Neer Portland

Ed. L.

Johnson

Oregon City

C. D. Winston Corvallis

PRELUDE Barbering Ancient, Medieval and For much of

the following article

HPHE

word "barber" comes from the Latin word "barba," meaning beard.

It may surprise you to know that the earliest records of barbers' show that

men of their the medicine men

they were the foremost tribe.

They were

and the priests. This was because primitive man was very superstitious and the early tribes believed that every individual was inhabited by good and bad spirits which entered the body through the hairs on the head. The bad spirits could be driven out only by cutting the hair, and so various fashions of hair cutting were practiced by the different tribes and this made the barber the most important man in the community. In fact, the barbers in these tribal days arranged all marriages and baptized all children. They were the chief figures in the religious ceremonies. During these ceremonies, the hair was allowed to hang loosely over the shoulders so that the evil spirits could come out. After the dancing, the long hair was cut in the prevailing fashion by the barbers and combed back tightly so that the evil spirits could not get in or the good spirits get out. This rule by barbers was a common thing in ancient Asia. In fact, wherever there were legends and superstitions about the hair, the barbers flourished. To this day in India, the veneration of the hair continues and those who cut and dress the hair are important characters.

SHAVED HEADS AND BEARDS Egypt, many centuries before Christ, barbers were prosperous and highly respected. The ancient monuments and papyrus show that the Egyptians shaved their beards and In

we

Modern

are indebted to the F. IV. Fitch Co.

The Egyptian

heads.

their

even went

priests

far as to shave the At this entire body every third day. time the barbers carried their tools their in open-mouthed baskets and razors were shaped like small hatchets and had curved handles. The Bible tells us that when Joseph was sumso

moned

to appear before Pharaoh, a barber was sent for to shave Joseph, so that Pharaoh's sight would not be offended by a dirty face.

In Greece, barbers came into prominence as early as the fifth century, B. C. These wise men of Athens rivalled each other in the excellence Beard trimming beof their beards. came an art and barbers became leadTheir shops were freing citizens. quented by statesmen, poets and philosophers, who came there to have their hair cut or their beards trimmed or curled and scented with costly essences. And, incidentally, they came to discuss the news of the day, because the barber shops of ancient Greece were the headquarters for social, political, and The importance of sporting news. the tonsorial art in Greece may be gathered from the fact that a certain prominent Greek was defeated for office because his opponent had a more neatly trimmed beard. In

the

third

century,

B.

C.,

the

Macedonians under Alexander the Great began their conquest of Asia and lost several battles to the Persians who grabbed the Macedonians by their beards, pulled them to the ground and speared them. This resulted in a general order by Alexander that all soldiers be clean-shaven. The example of the soldiers was followed by the civilians and beards lost their

vogue.

Barbers were unknown in 296 B. C., when Ticinius

until

Rome Mena

THE BARBERS' MANUAL to Rome from Sicily and introduced shaving. Shaving soon became the fashion and the barber shop became the gathering place for the Ro-

came

No people were better dandies. the barbers than the of Romans. They often devoted several hours each day to tonsorial operations, which included shaving, hair cutting, hairdressing, massaging, manicuring and the application of rare man

patrons

ointments and cosmetics of unknown formulas. The great ladies of Rome always had a hairdresses among their slaves and the rich nobles had private tonsors, as they were then called. Barbers were so highly prized that a statue was erected to the memory of the first barber of Rome.

When

Hadrian

became

emperor,

—

beards became the fashion again and Hadrian for a very good reason. had a face covered with warts and He allowed his beard to grow scars. The people to cover these blemishes. of

Rome

imitated

the

emperor and

grew beards whether they needed them or not.

The

fashion changed again to clean-

We

know that Caesar As we will see history many times, the

shaven faces.

was clean-shaven.

repeated in leaders of the state were the leaders of fashion and the people were always ready to follow the prevailing styles.

There are many passages in the Bible referring to the barber profesMoses commanded that all who sion. recovered from leprosy should be This was done as a health shaved. precaution, because throughout history the Jews have honored the beard as a badge of manhood. To this day, the orthodox Jews have little respect for clean shaven men. During periods of mourning, the ancient Jews allowed their beards to go untrimmed, but ordinarily their beards were trimmed regularly.

The prophet Ezekiel refers to an ancient custom in these words "Take thou a barber's razor and cause it to pass upon thy head and upon thy The razors of those days beard." were made of flint and oyster shells. :

ASSISTANTS TO CLERGY During the

first centuries of the Christian era, the barbers of Europe practiced their profession wherever it was the custom to shave the face and Charlemagne made trim the beard. long, flowing hair the fashion, but each new conqueror changed the fashion according to his whim and personal needs. During the first ten centuries after Christ, the great majority of the people and even the nobles were uneducated and could neither read nor write. The most learned people of the times were the monks and priests who became the physiThere were cians of the dark ages. no professional surgeons at that time. Most of the diseases which are easily curable now, were fatal then. "Bloodletting" was the popular method of curing all ills. This was first done by the clergy who enlisted the barbers as their assistants. This was the first step in the upward progress of the barber profession.

Barbers continued to act as assistants to the physician-clergy until the 12th century. At the council of Tours in 1163, the clergy were forbidden to draw blood or to act as physicians and surgeons on the ground that it was sacrilegious for ministers of God to draw blood from the human body. The barbers took up the duties relinquished by the .clergy and the era The conof barber-surgeons began. nection between barbery and surgery continued for more than six centuries and the barber profession reached its pinnacle during this time.

FIRST BARBER ORGANIZA-

TION The earliest known organization of barbers was formed in 1096 in France when William, archbishop of Rouen, prohibited the wearing of a beard. The barber-surgeon, or chirurgeons, began to thrive all over Europe. They were the doctors of the times and the royalty as well as the common people came to the barbers to have their ills treated as well as for shaving and haircutting. The physicians proper

THE BARBERS' MANUAL were in continual conflict with the barber-surgeons. The barbers embraced dentistry as well as surgery and this brought down on them the enmity of the dentists of the times. A long strife, whose settlement required the interference of kings and councils, followed between the barbers and the regular surgeon-dentists. But the barbers retained the privilege of practicing dentistry and surgery for several centuries.

FOUNDED SCHOOL OF SURGERY In the middle of the 13th century, the barber companies of Paris, known as the Brotherhoods of St. Cosmos and St. Domain, founded the first school ever known for the systematic instruction of barbers in the practice of surgery. This school was later enlarged and became the model for schools of surgery during the middle ages. Many of the foremost surgeons of the times were students of the School of St. Cosmos and St. Domain. The establishment o? this school was one of the greatest contributions ever made toward the progress of humanity.

The oldest barber organization in the world, still known in London as the "Worshipful Company of Barbers," was established in 1308. Richard le Barbour, as the Master of the Barbers, was given supervision over the whole of his trade in London. Once a month he had to go the rounds and rebuke any barbers whom he found acting disgracefully or entering on other trades less reputable. The master of a city company not only had this power, but he successfully prevented unauthorized persons from practicing the barber profession. The Barbers Guild of the 14th Century was undoubtedly more powerful than

any of the modern unions. The Guilds were sanctioned by the king and council and so they could enforce their regulations. It was not uncommon for violators of Guild regulations to suffer prison terms for their misde-

meanors.

BARBERS AS SURGEONS Up

to

the

year

1416,

the

barbers

were not interfered with in the practice of surgery and dentistry. But it was soon evident that they were attempting too much. It was impossible to expect ordinary human beings to competently practice surgery, dentistry

and the various tonsorial operations. People began to complain that the barber-surgeons were making them sick instead of well. Many barbersurgeons resorted to quackery in order to cover up their ignorance of medicine and anatomy. These abuses came

of the mayor and council of London, and in 1416 an orto the attention

dinance was passed forbidding barbers from taking under their care any sick person in danger of death or maiming, unless within three days after being called in, they presented the patient to one of the masters of the BarberSurgeon's Guild. Until 1461 the barbers were the only persons practicing surgery. The practice of surgery was still in its primitive stage, but new discoveries were being made regularly and the barbers found it impossible to keep up with the new discoveries and at the same time maintain their skill in dentistry and The surgeons began to barbering. forge to the front and became increasingly

jealous

of

the

privileges

ac-

corded the barbers. But for a long time they could do nothing to prevent the barbers from acting as surgeons. In 1450, the Guild of Surgeons was incorporated with the Barbers Company by act of parliament. Barbers

were

restricted to bloodletting, tooth-

drawing, cauterization and the tonsorHowever, the board ial operations. of governors, regulating the operations of the surgeons and barber-surgeons, consisted of two surgeons and two barbers. Every time a surgeon was given a diploma entitling him to practice his profession, the diploma had to be signed by two barbers as well as

two surgeons.

The surgeons resented this, but the barbers were very much favored by the monarchs and preserved their priv-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL ileges

until

the

middle of

the

18th

PROFESSION DECLINES

Henry VIII, Charles II and Queen Anne presented the barber-sur-

This marked the decline of the bar-

geons with valuable gifts and raised many of them; to high offices. Under a clause in the Act of Henry VIII, the Barber-surgeons were entitled to receive every year the bodies of four criminals who hod been executed. The dissections were performed four times a year in the Barber-Surgeons Hall which still stands in London.

ber profession. Similar action was taken in France under the reign of Louis XIV. Toward the end of the 18th century the barbers of Europe had completely relinquished their right to perform any of the operations of surgery and dentistry, except in the small towns and out-of-the-way places where doctors and dentists were not

century.

obtainable.

ORIGIN OF BARBER POLE The modern barber pole originated days when bloodletting was one

in the

of the principal dutiess of the barber. The two spiral ribbons painted around the pole represent the two long bandages, one twisted around the arm before bleeding and the other used to Originally, when bind is afterward. not in use, the pole with a bandage wound around it, so that both might be together when needed, was hung But later, for at the door as a sign. convenience, instead of hanging out the original pole, another one was painted in imitation of it and given a permanent place on the outside of the shop. This was the beginning of the

modern barber

pole.

ALLIANCE DISSOLVED As

the science of medicine, surgery

and dentistry advanced, the barbers became less and less capable of performing the triple functions of barbersurgeon-dentist. The surgeons wished to be separated entirely from the barbers and they petitioned parliament to sever the ancient relationship of the barbers and surgeons and compel each profession to adhere strictly to its own provinces. committee was appointed by parliament to investigate the matter and the petition was favorably reported to parliament. By an act of parliament, which received the sanction of the king, the alliance between the barbers and surgeons was dissolved in June, 1745. Two separate companies were formed and the property, formerly owned by the barbers and surgeons jointly, was divided among the two companies.

A

After the barbers were prohibited from practicing medicine, surgery and dentistry, they became mere mechanics and servants, subject to the whims of fashion. When wigs became the fashion during the 18th and part of the 19th century, barbers became wigmakers. Their profession had lost its ancient dignity and barbers had belaborers, instead of professional

come men.

In England, America and

all

over

the civilized world, the decline of the barber was a spectacle for all to see. Barber shops became hangouts, places

assembled. where low characters Smutty stories, malicious scandal and gossip of all kinds characterized barber shops until a few years ago. barber shop was a place where men

A

showed

women

their lower instincts dared not enter.

and where

AN UPWARD TREND Late

in the

nineteenth century there

were several noteworthy events in the barber profession that gave it an upward trend, and the effects are still carrying onward and upward. How long it will be before the barber may be looked up to as a professional man, taking his place by the side of the dentist, chiropodist, chiropractor and other kindred professions, cannot be foretold, but it would seem both the public and the profession are ready for better things.

In 1893 there was established by A. B. Moler in Chicago, a school for barbers, the first institution of its kind in the world, the success of which was apparent from its very start, for it stood for higher education in the

THE BARBERS' MANUAL ranks, and the parent school

was rap-

followed by branches in nearly every principle city of the United idly

States.

In the beginning of schools, simply the practical work of shaving, haircutting, facial treatments, etc., was taught as neither the public nor the profession were ready to accept scientific treatments of hair, skin and scalp.

Not until about 1920 was much efmade to professionalize the work.

fort

The Manual^ for instance, the textbook, issued by the Moler System of Colleges, included a brief study course and a compend of diseases.

From

time to

time as

the

public

would accept, this was increased and elaborated upon until today the curriculum of the Moler System of Colleges embodies elementary chemistry, histology, bacteriology, and anatomy in addition to the practical training

course.

In 1916 there was another advance importance enacted, a system of barbering known as the "Terminal Methods." It had its origin in the mind of a Mr. Schuster, an Austrian by birth, who came to New York City and seeing the great advancement in barbering over that of the old country, was inspired to do still greater things, and with the assistance of Mr. McAdoo, who was then in charge of the Pennsylvania Railway, established a super-sanitary shop in the Terminal Station in New York City. The shops of

throughout New York that were later established by this system, were known as the "Terminal Methods," and now embrace most of the leading shops of the large cities everywhere. The work of the Terminal Methods included the boiling in water of every instrument used in plain view of the customer the sealing of brushes in airtight glassine bags after the instruments had been thoroughly sterilized, either by baking, boiling or dipping into a sterilizing solution ; and it carried this strict sanitation and more professional work into every act of the barber. it was apparent Terminal would eventually win the hearts of the public. It was not until 1924 that the Moler System endorsed and put into effect this service in their Post Graduate Departments.

Altogether

Methods

Another event, the most recent and probably the most important of the twentieth century, was the establishing in 1924, by the Master Barbers of America, an educational Council whose duty it was to pass on the qualifications of graduates from recognized schools,

and

to

recommend them

to

standard shops for employment.

The work

of this Council doubtless

had more to do with the standardization and uplift of barbering than any other act in recent history, for it not only provided the service but looked after the application of it.

Too much cannot be Association

said regarding

whose

foresightedness led to so effective a work. this

Lesson

One

Subject

TOOLS Selection and Care of Tools

Things

to

Remember

nr\HE fact that a barber can be no better A than his outfit, makes the selection of tools second in importance only to the actual work, for no one, no matter how well trained, can do good work with poor

tracts ; both affect the fine

tools.

of razors.

Heat expands and

cold con-

edge

Razor

Let us talk of the razor first. In selecting a razor, you have this to consider the style of grind, the width and length of the blade, the handle that gives it a general balance, the material in the blank from which the blade is ground and the finish or ;

polish.

Razor blank made

of

welded

steel

wire tvill retain poisonous that can best be elimin-

Steel

germs the razor blank and by the twisted ends at the shank, that a razor is not made of one solid I

you

show you here

will note,

piece of metal, but of a number of twisted wires welded into one. The object of making blanks in this way is that the ends of the wires brought to the edge of the blade,

Page

five

ated by boiling.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

oint

Names

Things

to

of razor parts

Remember gives a better grain or a blade that will be less susceptable to the climatic conditions,

heat and cold.

A

razor blank as it comes from the forge is wedge shaped and may be ground into any concave desired.

It

may

much

the

know made from very

be information to you to

that nearly

all

razors are

same

blanks.

While

it

is

true

some factories may have a better process of making blades than others, many razors of

Page six

THE BARBERS' MANUAL many processes and names are made from exactly the same blanks, the differences in prices generally being made up in the better or lesser methods of tempering, grinding and finish. In selecting a razor, you have nothing to be guided by as to the softness or hardness of the steel, for the manufacturers themselves will tell you they are not able to actually detect this, yet you will see barbers making all kinds of tests and telling the dealer it is too hard or too soft with absolutely no way of proving their statement.

Things

to

Remember

Only the expert can detect the hardness, softness or temper of a razor blade. A barber is not competent to judge.

There are few barber razors or those of national reputation handled by the dealers throughout the country that are not properly tempered. They are so carefully scrutinized and selected in the process of manufacturing that seldom or ever is a defective barber's razor found on the market. This is probably not true of the general hardware or department store razors, but it holds good with the razors in which you, as a barber will come in contact, if you are buying through the regular barber supply dealers, so you have little that need concern you regarding the temper.

The

style of grind,

however, has much

A

full to do with the cost of the razor. concave is the highest priced grind we have and you will be able to detect this grind by looking at the blade from the end, which shows a thinner part of the blade next to the heavy back and a heavier point between this thin metal and the point.

Page seven

A full tion.

poor blank could not be concave and give satisfac-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

The most

to

Remember

delicate

razor

TT

is

The most full concave. undesirable is the wedge.

She wing degree of concaves

the

It is easy to detect the concave towards the point of the razor, but frequently the razor is concaved only at the point and remains heavier toward the heel. This can be detected by running the finger and

thumb from

the back towards the .point, the end nearest point, and continue to make the same test each time a little farther back on the blade until you reach the heel. first at

you find by the feel of the blade, that not quite as thin towards the heel, it need not necessarily follow that it is a cheaper razor, but it should have a fairly good concave from point to heel. If

it

To

test the flexibility

blade

of a

by running the thumb

nail along the side of the blade

detects nothing

and frequently

spoils the edge.

Dealers object

to this.

is

There is a small gauge made by which the exact concave can be tested, but this would be of little value to you as your selection is made from the blade that balances well in your hand and in general size and make-up.

A

half concave blade is less of a hollowing than the full concave and the threequarter or plain grind has still less or none. There is on the market now, an old-fashioned type known as the Wedge that has no concave and it is having more or less recommendation with the younger barbers

Page

eight

THE BARBERS* MANUAL Things

Showing

Remember

The practice of grinding or breaking off the point of a razor denotes lack of skill.

different shape points

who do not know it was an many years ago.

to

old obsolete

type

however, it seems to suit best there no serious objections to using it. It does, however, require a good deal more honing to keep in condition, is heavier and If,

is

more awkward

The

to use.

may be square we always recommend that

point of the razor

or rounded, but

even though a square point seems more difficult to use that you accustom yourself to it right from the beginning for there are so many places in the shave that you need the square point that you are working at a disadvantage if you allow the point to be ground off.

There are different styles of head, square and round, but the round head is much more desirable than the square. It does not scratch the strop, gives a nicer balance to the razor and generally a better appearance. Nearly all high priced razors have the round head and square point.

The finish can be either a polished steel, crokus or, in some instances, a nickel finish. The crokus finish on a razor is the most

Page nine

The illustrations above shozv old fashioned heads and points, not the modern styles.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Frequently

Remember

an

expensive. It has the brighter, more polished appearance, but for real value has nothing to do with the cutting qualities, although when the razor is new it enables you to hone it a little easier.

expensive

polish is given to a cheap blank. Most barber razors are plain steel polished.

The

plain

steel

finish

that

frequently

shows that bluish tinge that gives the name of blue steel to

many

a razor,

is

for

all

good as the crokus and a little less expensive. If you see a bluish caste here and there through the blade, do practical use just as

not be led to believe it is a defect or a spot, rather it denotes good steel.

burned

The

nickel finish should always be avoid-

it is almost impossible to re-hone a nickled blade. This is the finish that you frequently see on hardware razors and the cheaper grades that are made for looks rather than service.

ed, as

The

length of the blade should be seyour own liking. If a short blade seems most likable in your hand, select it, or if the longer blade seems to have a better feel, use it, for there is really nothing to choose as far as the real shaving is concerned in the longer or lected simply to

The longer the blade, the more cutting surface you have, and the less frequent honing required.

shorter blade.

of the blades are gauged by eighths, such as 4/8, 5/8, 6/8, etc. The 5/8 is generally selected in purchasing a new blade even though it may be a trifle larger than you like to work with for razors always grow smaller with use and

The width

Page

ten

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

The

is

who

several sizes of blades

why

the

Remember

The wide blade has greater expansion and contraction than the narrow one and more frequently loses its edge by chang-

if too small a blade is purchased in the beginning, it shortens the life or the usefulness of your razor.

That

to

professional

ing temperatures.

razor

shop is always desireous of getting the bigger blades for in his rounds he is loaded up with the blade that has become too small. The professional trader, however, should be avoided. trader,

visits the

He lives off the man who is notional not professional, for barbers, like every artist, frequently become temperamental and lay their, faults to the instrument.

The handle

of a razor

is

generally se-

by the manufacturer to properly balance the blade and seldom, if ever, can you change the handle and be as satisfied as lected

before.

In purchasing a razor, one should guard against the handle that may warp and allow the blade to strike the handle in closing, but we seldom find this fault in a barber's razor. The ornamentations on a handle, as you know, is solely for looks, but the one who takes pride in his outfit will select with an eye to beauty as well as practicability.

Page

eleven

If a razor handle warps, causing the edge of the blade to strike, it can be straightened by heat, either moist or dry.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Hone .

—

Razor hones are of two varieties quarand manufactured. The quarried hone

ried

sometimes called a lather hone, sometimes a hickory and sometimes an oil stone. This hone comes from the quarries of Belgium and is found deep down in the earth's crevices or caves of that country. It is a formation of seepage through the rock and has the appearance on the inside of the cave of icicles. is

A

hone

Washing material

in zvill

"steel-bind." gasoline or like

ivill

free

it.

Belgium

The one

hone

of two colors, all That is the one that is sawed from the rock next to the alkali deposits caused by the seepage. in

illustrated

is

one piece of material.

There are others of this variety where two colors are glued together. This is where a part of the rock is sawed and the

simply furnishes a foundation of strength of background to hold the cream color part of the stone, the real hone.

The grain of a hone can be tested by running the finger or thumb nail endwise on the surface.

The rock is not a hone, simply the strength of the cutting part. This hone is not as popular at this time as it has been in the past, mainly because it does not do this work as fast, but it does give a more lasting edge than the faster cutting hones.

Water hone

Page twelve

THE BARBERS' MANUAL The dark

colored hone

is

known

Things

as a

to

Remember

water hone and also comes from Belgium and Germany. It is also a quarried hone is obtainable in a number of grades, usually called blue, dark blue, green or yellow green, and is without doubt the best hone for a beginner as it cuts very slow, does not over hone and enables one to practice honing without ruining the razor, as with the faster cutting hone used by one not familiar with their work or who knows when his blade is taking an edge.

and

Selecting a good hone is largely speculative except by experts of which there are but

few.

is

S. R. Drocscher, our authority.

New

York,

Swaty hone

The manufactured hone is of a number of varieties. Some are made to cut reasonably slow while others are made to cut medium or over fast, but none of the manufactured stones have the real soft cutting edge of the quarried stone. However,

this

need not condemn them

for the fast cutting hone is used successfully by many barbers, however, nearly

every barber has one fast cutting and one slow cutting hone in his kit.

A

Carborundum hone

Among

manufactured hones is the from Austria, the Carborundum, made in this country and the composition made from oil residus under a great many names. However, I believe the Swaty gives the most universal satisfaction of all manufactured hones. the

Swaty, a stone imported

Page

thirteen

hone zvhile in use should be kept at the temperature of the room as should also the materials used with it. Otherwise the edge of the razor zvill be effected by the change of temperature.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Shears

The barber's shear is generally the type known as all steel, which, according to the name,

A

is

one

solid piece of steel

from point

to ferule.

shear should balance

in the hand, not

fit

ivell

the finger

Ferrule must fit loosely and the knack of handling acquired by practice. or thumb.

There was a time when steel laid shears and cast steel was tried out in the barber shop, but you find very few of this make

now in the barber's hands. The all steel shear may be hand forged, which means hammered out as the blacksmith would sharpen an instrument or it may be stamped in shape and not ham-

mered

in shape.

A

steel laid shear is one in which a thin layer of steel is welded to a blank giving only a partial steel blade. The cast steel is the cheaper variety such as the household shear.

French pattern hair cutting shear

A

shear blade will spread disease as readily as a razor and should be boiled as frequently.

The pattern of the shears vary more in regards to handles and ferules than in blades. The all steel shear may be ground to a thinner blade and be serviceable than would be possible with the steel blade or cast, but the handles and ferules are known as the French type or the German type, although the French type is made in German shears as well as of French manufacture.

Page fourteen

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

mts

>o inx

movino

O

Wade

C/ rerule £ hinder j

rhumb rerule Names

of

shear

parts

Things

The French round ferules

man

type

made

to

French type

illustrated, while the

the finger and thumb.

among

type, if

for which to be

most

is

general favor

German

made

Remember

Ger-

the flatter or broader ferule

is fit

to

type ferules are the small

it is

it

in

demand and

The finds

the barbers, for the

were

to give the

comfort

designed, would really have

for each individual.

The French patterned shear can be used for either the right The only difor left hand. ference being that the sharp point is on the wrong blade. This, hoivever, objection.

Page

fifteen

is

not a serious

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

An

inexperienced workman prefers rubber shear pads for the ferrule but will discard them when he becomes usually

more

skillful.

Another point in favor of the French pattern is it's lightness, general delicacy and refinement. Shears are made with a "set", which means a curve to each blade, that, when closed, brings the points close together enabling them to cut clear to the point and will show space between the blades with the exception of a little at the point when they are closed. You may be led to believe this is a defect. It is not, it is the spring or set they must have. razors may have a plain a crokus or a nickel and like the razor and for the same reason a crokus is the most expensive. The sizes may be 6 1/2, 7, 7y2 or 8 inch, but probably the 7 inch finds greatest favor. This, however, is according to your own likes or dislikes.

Shears

like

steel finish,

Any one aside from an expert grinder who advises he can re-edge or re-set a pair of shears properly, is to be avoided. The screw holding the blades should never be adjusted by the barber.

Shears should never be given to the grinder to be sharpened and it is not advisable for you to attempt to re-edge your own shear. If one is experienced, he may possibly renew an edge temporarily on a grinding wheel, with a small file or on the hone, but this is only a temporary relief for shears usually need a re-set if they need a re-grind and only the experienced grinder can give this. Do not give your shears to the street grinder, the barber supply house is the place to re-grind a barber shear.

Page

sixteen

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

Clippers

Remember

made of any number

of but the same styles, sizes rule that applies to the other instruments applies to the clipper, only the very best obtainable should be purchased. Clippers are

to

and

qualities,

A style most favored by the barber is the one with the coil spring that never breaks, the one that can be easily taken apart and put together and the one that has the best By this, I mean the one feel in the hands. that handles best.

There are many imitations

The

clipper blade

zvill

innoc-

ulatc as readily as a razor or shear and should be boiled as

frequently.

to this pat-

but if the imitation was better it would not be made an imitation to this standard make. tern,

High grade hand

clipper

The

size or length of cut is to be taken Generally a barber consideration. will have in his kit, two or three sizes, but

into

many use only one and do very good work. The sizes No. 1, No, 0, No. 00 and No. 000 are used, but probably the No. 0, if only one clipper is in the outfit, is best. The No. 00 and No. 000 cut proportionately shorter, the No. 1 is the longest cut the barber uses.

Illustrating

corrugated

bottom

Paje seventeen

The usual cause for

clipper

improper adjustment of the tension screw at the top

pulling

is

of the plate.

It

can be too

tight as well as too loose.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

The corrugated bottom

plate

is

so

made

over the surface. flat bottom plate will stick to the neck especially if the surface is moist, which is that

it

will slide readily

A Anxiety

use the electric clipper in place of the hand machine is the cause of much hair cutting trouble. The use

the case

when

a customer perspires.

to

of the hand clipper must be acquired first, otherwise when the electric fails the barber fails with it.

The finish of the clipper is generally the polished steel not nickel. The cheaper varieties are made with a round spring in the mechanism that frequently breaks and has not the strength of the coil or barrel spring just referred to.

Magnetic clipper works successfully

only

in

alternating

currents. Standard clippers are universal and can be used on

Electric

hand clipper

Electric

standard clipper

either direct or alternating currents.

Electric clippers are universally used, but a student must first learn to use the hand clippers very successfully before attempting to use the electric. Electrics are made to operate by motor and flexible shaft or by magnet like a doorbell.

Page eighteen

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

;!ifffp?!ffnpf Metal back hair brush.

Permits

boiling-

The metal back hairbrush can be boiled and is the best Hairbrush

method of sterilization. backs cannot.

Wood

The hairbrush

is the instrument that important but equally as great care should be given to the selection of it as any other instrument in the kit.

may seem

A a

less

hairbrush

germ

is

dangerous because

carrier, difficult to sterilize

and

it

is

fre-

quently harmful if too penetrating. Many states have passed laws forbidding a hairbrush in a barber shop unless as the customer's own individual property, and they are prohibited on all sleeping cars for public

use.

Air cushion hair brush

therefore, important that you select one that can be sterilized, the metal back or one with bristles set in vulcanized rubber that is detachable from the handle. I illustrate one of each that have passed most State Board examinations. HairIt

is,

brushes should be sterilized after each application.

Paijc nineteen

In selecting a hair brush, shape, width and length of bristles must be taken into

sice,

consideration.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Leather and canvas strops

Strops

The "break

in" of a strop

the biggest part of it, if are breaking in on good is

you ma-

terial.

Strops should always be used in pairs, canvas and leather. The canvas strop should be a good quality linen hose, for .

when

well broken in

and becomes

it

will last a lifetime

better with age.

Generally canvas strops are machine finished at the factory, but as a rule require Dry soap rubbed into additional work. the strop that may be fastened to a smooth surface and rubbed with a bottle is a good method of dressing strops, but this should not be done until the strop begins to be

rough from

use.

The

strop should be kept as dry as posmoisture swells it and makes It is, therefore, not advisable to it rough. use lather in rubbing the strop unless it may be to remove the grit that accumulates on the surface of an old strop. When this is done, apply the lather freely and immediately scrape it off with the blade of the shear before the canvas has time to soak up the moisture. It is well occasionally to wipe the surface of the strop with cotton saturated in alcohol. sible for the

Strops should never be folded closely, as it spoils the surface.

Be

especially

cautious

of this if carrying in a kit.

The leather strop is of grades of leather.

made of a number The heavy Russia,

the lighter weight Shell, and the HorseHide. The Russia leather gets its name

from

the imported article of years ago, but get little or none of the imported goods now, we use the American cow-hide as

we

Page twenty

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Canvas

Remember

Things

to

strop,

like

strop

some heavy leather and give it the stamp on the back the same as the imported gives. This you will see is the red

proves with age only

corrugated

erly used.

or

finish.

A

a violin, imif prop-

This heavy leather requires a great deal of work to break in or make satisfactory for the barber's use, as it continues to become rough by stropping until a great deal of work has been put on the finish.

Russia

The Russia of shell

leather

leather

Shell

is

which

strop

simply

a

in reality is

piece

more

muscle over the rump of the horse than a leather, and as only a few strops can be cut from a hide, it makes this a rather expensive strop. It needs no work or breaking in to put it in condition. It has a smooth surface and remains smooth no matter how much service you a

give

it.

frequently stamped on the back by manufacturers the same as the Russia strop, and this is what gives it its name, "Russia Shell." It is

A

horse-hide strop is not desirable for barbers' use. It is the kind that is put in strops for private use, but does not have a sufficient grain to draw out the edge of a razor or a sufficiently smooth service to put on a good edge.

Page

tzveiily-one

A

strop can poison your razor, therefore should be sterilized by treating with carbolized vaseline.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Neck Dusters

Neck

The

tip

duster

ends of the neck

that

come

in

contact

can be kept sanitary by frequently dipping into a mild sterilizing solution.

zvith the individual,

dusters are made with and without a fountain handle. The fountain handle carries talcum powder that is discharged into the roots of the bristles by using the neck duster and enables the barber to powder the neck without the inconvenience of picking up the powder can to sift into the neck duster

Fountain neck duster, contains powder

The

hair of the neck duster, if of good is horsehair, but frequently cheaper grades are made of fibre. Neck dusters are made with wood handles without the fountain compartment, but as dusters must be washed frequently, the celluloid or metal handle is preferred. quality,

Wood

The neck duster

A

neck

is

in a germicidal soap

paper wide band of slipped over the hair of the duster

straight

will

when not

keep

in use.

it

neck

handle

duster

cleansed by washing and warm water and

the ends of the bristles dipped in a 3 per cent solution of carbolic acid and water, then dry thoroughly by whirling the neck Be sure duster between the two hands. the brush is thoroughly dry before putting it

into

your

kit for if

it

is left

allowed to dry out of shape, bristles.

Page twenty-two

it

moist and spoils its

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things to Remember

Lather Brush

The that

it

lather brush should be one so made will stand boiling in hot water,

which means that the

bristles should be vulcanized in rubber and the handle of

PREDICTION Neither a lather brush nor a zvill be used in the barber shop of 1930.

mug

Rubberset lather brush showing construction

be affected by the heat. The wood handle lather brush or the old-fashioned twine bound no longer have a place in the sanitary shop. celluloid or metal that could not

Mug The plain glass mug, where mugs are used, has taken the lead over the china mug, for they have a more cleanly and sanitary appearance, but in using a glass

mug

one must be careful not to dash hot water into it. It can be poured in on the lather brush, but in no event should extremely hot water be used where soap is

1 Gold

mug

band

crystal

glass

mug

scalds and renders the soap useless. Both the cup and brush should be thoroughly rinsed before each in the

usage and

for

it

should be done conspicuously enough so that your customer can see he is getting fresh, clean lather. it

Page twenty-three

A

sloppy patronage.

mug

driveth

away

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Comb

A

comb of

either rubber or horn is acPossibly the rubber is preferable as it does not warp or lose its shape and is equally durable as any other. ceptable.

A

number of threads held

between the fingers and thumb provides a good comb

tightly

cleaner.

The horn comb, however, has its friends among the barbers and probably there is

teeth

little

Rough edges of the may be smoothed by

to choose

between them. They should

scraping with broken glass.

Hard rubber

hair cutting

comb

be thoroughly washed and dipped in the sterilizing solution after each customer. comb with a thin end for close haircutting is the style that is necessary and one with one-half coarse and one-half fine teeth is preferred.

A

Leather Roll

A

with pocket for combs, convenient for carrying the instruments, but if a sterilizing cabinet is preferred for the barber, the roll is not needed on the workstand. razor

shears,

A

roll

etc., is

razor pocket is a convenience, not a necessity. If used, must be kept clean.

Razor pockets

Page twenty-four

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Uniform

Things

Barbers should be uniformed in white, but many use only a white coat, still the white trousers and shirt or white trousers and jacket gives a much nicer appearance. The uniform in the high-class shop should be changed daily.

Many shops adopt a plan of sealing the brushes, combs, and other instruments in a glassine bag (a transparent container that keeps them free from dust), breaking the seal when the instrument is used for each customer. This requires a number of brushes and combs but the effect on a high class trade warrants the extra ser-

to

Remember

A

long belted jacket gives a professional look, but in hot zveather is burdensome. White shirt and trousers are appropriate.

vice.

To encase instruments in sealed packages has a favorable psychological effect on patronage.

Regulation barber uniform

Page twenty-five

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

A

to

Remember

smooth even draw

heavy enough

It is well to practice on an old razor or on a slow cutting hone that you do not damage a perfectly good instrument and continue to practice this until it becomes perfectly easy and natural. just

to feel the cut

gives the best edge.

After the mechanical skill has been acquired, the testing of the edge to determine its fitness is

next in importance.

Line of direction for razor on hone

You

determine the edge by testing it on Usually the barber moistens his thumb nail, and by drawing the edge over

the nail.

the nail lightly,

An

uneven edge cannot be

kept sharp.

Hone

heel to point.

evenly

from

it

will tell

you the condition.

If a razor has a thick blunt edge, it will ride over the nail without making any impression as would any blunt instrument,

honed thin, it will cut in and as you move it over the surface. If it has a rather gritty grating feeling, it will indicate that the razor is too rough and this may be when it is not quite honed to an edge or when it has been over-honed to the

but

if it is

draw

Page twenty-eight

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

A nick in the edge of the razor causes it to jump as it is drawn over the nail. Finish with light even stroke

degree where the edge breaks and crumbles giving it that disagreeable gritty feeling. It is

necessary to test the edge frequently

you hone, in order to detect its condition, and as you find it is taking an edge, hone

as

Testing

edge

after

honing

An very cautiously for an over-honed edge is bad or worse than one not sufficiently honed. There is little danger of over-honing when a water hone is used. This is why it is recommended from the beginning, but as the water hone is a little too slow as

for the workman who wants to make time, the Swaty hone here has its place in the kit.

Page twenty-nine

overhoned

edge

feels

can be smoothed by drawing over a match or like surface, a few times, then rehoned. rough, like a

file.

It

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Stropping

Neither the razor nor strop should be colder than the temperature of the room when stropping.

A razor unless freshly honed should always be stropped on the canvas strop first just enough to draw out the edge and finish on the leather. There is a friction in stropping on the canvas that heats the metal, thereby expanding it and bringing it out to a keener edge so enough stropping should be given on the canvas to heat the blade, from one-half to one dozen strokes.

The

strops should be held tight and a pressure given the razor on the strop to feel the draw and the razor must be held perfectly flat on the strop. It can be drawn perfectly straight, but there will be no harm if drawn diagonally on the sursufficient

Freshly honed razors need only the leather strop. freshly honed razor is one just off the hone.

A

Stropping position

Page

thirty

THE BARBERS' MANUAL face and it should be turned on its back for each stroke without lifting it from the

Things

to

Remember

strop.

There is quite a knack turning the razor hand without turning the hand itself. It should be so held that it can be in the

easily rolled in the hand,

cess of stropping

much

making the proand more

easier

The more shaves you without honing, the stropping will be needed. with canvas, second

give,

more First

with

leather.

graceful.

After the proper number of strokes on the canvas, turn the strop over, bringing the leather side up, and strop on this the same as on the canvas, generally about the same number of strokes. If a razor is freshly honed it should not be put on the canvas strop but should be

Too much stropping or

too

heavy is as bad as\not enough, and too lightly.

Turning razor on strop

Page

thirty-one

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

stropped immediately on the leather and usually a little more stropping at first than will be required after the edge has been

smoothed.

A

stropped razor gives its to the flesh, not the

answer nail.

Testing edge after stropping

You test the edge of your razor after stropping by drawing it over the flesh or ball of your finger. Draw the razor carefully over the surface or you may draw your finger over the edge, to detect its condition.

If

in

perfect

shape,

it

will

have a

smooth, keen cut that will not permit you to draw very far without cutting through, but if it is rough it will have a rather disagreeable feeling, although it may cut into the flesh just as quickly as the keen edge. The razor should be stropped just before the shave; no other time. This is on account of the heat given to the razor by the friction of stropping. The heat expands the metal, giving a better edge.

This, however, would not give a satisfactory shave where the smooth, keen edge If is necessary to do the work properly. you were to look at the blade through a

microscope you would find it has teeth like a saw and the honing and stropping is given to obtain just the proper set or size to the teeth.

Page thirty-two

Lesson

Three

Subject

SHAVING Things

Exercises

PRECEDING our give a

lesson in shaving,

to

Remember

we

number of

exercises that are essential in enabling one to take the proper positions in handling razor and to put the hands in proper condition for shaving. These exercises can be practiced to advantage preceding the actual work at the chair but in your endeavor to put this into effect, if for home practice, be sure that you have followed instructions carefully. You must note that a razor is never carried straight forward toward the edge; it must always be held so that the cutting edge will strike the object to be cut at an angle or like sawing, for it is the teeth or roughness in the edge (too fine to be detected with the naked eye) that does the work like the teeth in a saw, therefore every stroke with a razor blade must be a sliding stroke. Too much emphasis cannot be given to this particular point, for if not practiced properly, your exercises would be of no avail. The several positions that one must acquire in getting at all parts of the face, are

four in number called Free Hand, Back Hand, Double Back Hand and Reverse Hand. The object in using the left hand while working with the right is to imitate the actual shaving movements. The left hand is always used to draw the skin tight under razor and the exercises must be with the left hand, either back or in front, according to the number you are working on.

Page

thirty-three

A

razor

face, not

is

carried over the

dragged or pushed.

Cutting strokes remarks, penetrate led skillfully.

like cutting if

not hand-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Shave Exercise No.

1

A

cutting stroke is a movestraight forward, not a swing, with the point of the

ment

blade carried ahead.

FREE HAND This movement shaving the right

is

used

side

of

actual the face,

in

work the

at left

the chair side of

for the

chin, and the upward movement of both right and left sides It is the most general and one of the easiest of the neck. movements used in shaving.

No, you haven't

it

yet; try

again.

Page

thirty-four

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things to Remember

Shave Exercise No.

1

Keep

the wrist

stiff,

but bend

the elbow.

EXERCISE NO. Take razor finger.

Raise

1

hand, handle between little and third elbow nearly level with the shoulder. Take shaving. Hold left hand back of razor as if

in

right

position as if stretching the skin tight under the razor. Move razor in right hand toward you with a diagonal stroke toward the point, a sliding movement, then back and forth The length of strokes should be from 8 inches like sawing. to a foot.

Muscle control

is

by continual practice.

Page

thirty-five

acquirea

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Shave Exercise No.

2

Keep the elbow up and carry the razor with a straight, sliding stroke, not a swing.

LACK HAND This movement is used in actual work at the chair for shaving the right side of the chin, the left side of the face, the left side of the neck shaving down and the left side the upper lip. It is one of the most difficult movements and next in importance to the Free Hand. of

Do not get behind your razor and push. Give it a chance to cut by using a cutting stroke.

Page

thirty-six

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

Shave Exercise No.

to

Remember

2

Keep the point ahead, carried at an angle.

EXERCISE XO. Take razor of the fingers

bhank

razor

in

resting

and held of

the

right

2

hand with handle bent back,

the shank on the first two joints of the first two by the thumb on the back of the blade from you and the handle

in place the razor,

—

pointing toward you. Raise the elbow nearly as high as the shoulder, the back of the hand directly from you, the wrist slightly bent downward. Hold the left hand as if stretching the skin tight under the razor.

Stiffen the wrist

and forearm

to better control the stroke.

Page thirty-seven

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Shave Exercise No.

Draw toward the heel, ing forward at an angle.

3

mov-

REVERSE HAND This movement

Keep stiff.

the wrist

and elbow

Move up from

used in actual work at the chair for either right or left side of the neck shaving up. It is not as generally used by the barber as the other two movements for it is one of the most difficult movements to acquire. It is a labor saver and should be mastered. is

the

shoulder.

Page

thirty-eight

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

Shave Exercise No.

Do

EXERCISE NO. the

reverse

right

in

of

Movement No.

bent

slightly

little

2.

not let the blade swing. up, held at an angle.

it

3

hand with the edge toward you

between the ends of the

Remember

3

Carry

Take razor

to

jus*

This will bring the handle finger. The handle

and third

back.

Move the razor toward you with a slightly upward movement drawing toward you and toward the heel in a diagonal direction. The length of the movement is from 4 to 6 inches.

Hold the

left

hand

as

if

pulling the skin

tight

under the

razor.

Both hands necessary with ercises.

Page thirty-nine

in position are all

of these ex-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Shave Exercise No. 4 This is a hard position requiring a limber wrist and perfect muscle control.

DOUBLE RACK HAND This

movement

making the outline back

of the practice will attain side,

This stroke when mastered, saves

many

steps.

Page forty

used in actual work at the chair of the hair cut. It is used on the ear. The position is quite difficult,

is

it.

for left

but

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Shave Exercise No. 4 i

This is not a sliding stroke, rather a chop.

EXERCISE NO.

4

in right hand as in Movement No. 2. Drop the elbow close to the side, turn the palm of the hand up with the razor in a position that will bring the point down. Raise the left arm and hand in a position as if drawing the skin tight under th° razor. The movement is a slight forward movement toward the

Take razor

edge of the razor. Practice is required ls not difficult.

to

attain

the

position.

The movement

This movement is a short downward stroke from the shoulder.

Page forty-one

—

7 69

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Deviations from the chart made for are growth of mustache, partial instructions j

•

j

,

BACK HAN 0-8 3

rRct HAND

zvhiskers, etc.

BACKHANO— I-FREEHAND

FREEHAND—

2-BACKHANO

4—FREE HAND DOWN

BACK HAND DOWN—

5-FREEHANDUP

-FREE

14-FREEHANDUNDERLIP

/

HANDUP-IO

/

ll-FREEHANDACROSS 1

.

\

3-FREE HANGUP

12— FREEHANO DOWN

Diagram

of Face for Shave.

As your customer

takes your chair, raise the headrest several notches and try to turn the chair in a manner that will make it easy for him to be seated, and as you swing the chair in position, also recline it at the proper angle, making it comfortable for the customer, still easy for you to opDon't recline your chair too it with a

erate.

speedily, or drop

slam.

Avoid

letting the chair

down

to its ex-

treme limit and pumping it up to height you for the customer is never comThe head fortable laying perfectly flat. should be higher than the feet. The chair

to suit

will

be partially reclined always.

Page forty-two

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Now

Thing6

cover the customer with a chair by swinging it over the customer, not by standing back of the customer and swinging it over the head. There are con-

to

Remember

cloth

such as extremely hot weather, the chair cloth is not spread over the customer, but this is the unusual, not the usual procedure. ditions,

when

A good

neat linen

1

'set-up

'

is

a

start.

Now take your face towel from the stack on your workstand right by your elbow, unfold it and place it diagonally over the customer's chest and with the first finger of the right hand lifting the neck band at the collar button and tuck the edge of the towel in at the neck band with a sliding motion with the first finger of the left

hand.

Now

cross the other end of your towel

toward you changing hands.

over, turn the customer's face

and tuck

in the other side,

See that the linen is smoothly and neatly spread for the manner of handling linen often decides in the boss's mind whether or not you will hold your first job. Now pick up your cup and brush and if you are working with an individual washstand in front of your customer, do the rinsing of the mug in a manner that will show your customer, if he may be looking, that you are giving him sanitary service. This should be done quickly and noislessly and only a little mixing after the water has been emptied from your cup, just a sufficient

amount

to

fill

your brush with a

lather about the consistency of thick cream. If the lather in the brush is too moist, it will

run down the customer's neck;

if

too

Page forty-three

A man shaved.

well lathered

is

half

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Too many

Remember

fingers froth spoils the broth.

Lather brush

in

in

hand

the stiff, it

will

dry quickly on the face and you

will not get the benefits that the lather

is

intended to give to the operation.

You apply the lather with the handle of the brush in the palm of the right hand, allowing the ends of your fingers to work down into the bristles to keep them from spreading too much and to enable you to handle the brush more easily. It must be used with a rotary movement, which not only works the lather into the roots of the hair, but enables the brush to make more lather in itself as you go over the face in a rotary movement.

Apply the

all parts of the beard shaved using care around the mouth at the nostrils and at the ears. After the face has a good coat of lather, take the brush between the thumb and finger of the left hand, holding the hand at the

that

To

your brush in the keeps your customer awake. If he wants to sleep, let him.

mug

rattle

is

lather to

to be

headrest, not at the customer's forehead, in a manner that will enable you to turn the head from right to left without raising it from the headrest, and with the right hand rub the lather well with a rotary movement so that the soap will be worked well into the roots of the beard.

After a

two

little

rubbing, generally from

you re-place your lather brush in the cup, pick up a turkish to three minutes,

Page forty-four

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

Lathering.

Left

hand

turning

to

Remember

head

or steam towel. Fold it once lengthwise, hold it under the hot water until thoroughly saturated, wring it out reasonably dry, having it as hot as the hands will bear it comfortably, and spread it over the face by holding it at the two ends, bringing it from the lower part of the neck over the enti e face, including the forehead and

There is a difference between a steamed tozvel and a soaked one. Steam your totvels.

eyes.

Cut and scald and you

Applying hot towel

Allow the towel to remain on the face steam while you strop the razor, then remove the lather and be careful not to

to

rub against the grain of the beard. Relather the beard and proceed with the shave.

Page

forty-jive

have more time for the game tomorrow.

zvill

ball-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things to Remember

This illustration shows the improper position of the razor.

The dotted

lines

show

the pro-

This precautionary illustration should as-

per sist

position.

you

to the right position.

Right side free hand (No.

1.)

Movements

As much depends upon keeping the skin tight under the razor as does the condition of your razor, for comfortable shaving.

The razor is to be held in the right hand with the handle between the little and third ringer and in such a manner that it will enable you to draw the razor forward with a diagonal cutting stroke. The razor must not be drawn straight while shaving, it must have a sliding, cutting stroke. After stropping the razor start at the right side of the face at the hair line, shaving down with a free hand stroke to the jaw bone, holding the surface that you are going over smooth and tight with the left hand. As you continue to shave continue to bring the left hand close to the surface that you are shaving that you may draw the skin tight, and continue with the same kind of a stroke until the right side of the face has been shaved to the corner of the mouth. This is movement No. 1.

Page forty-six

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Another precaution regarding the back hand stroke may help.

Keep

the elbow

up and

carry the razor; do not push

Position

Allow me

for

back

to caution

it.

hand

you

at this point

regarding the use of lather paper. The regulation size for lather paper is 4x6 inches. Always wipe your razor off in the center and not around the outer edge as

you are apt

At

to do.

this point

you use the back hand

stroke, which is reversing the razor in the hand, and so held that it will enable you to give a sliding stroke with the point of the razor in advance and shave to the point of

the chin.

Also be careful that you shave the corner of the mouth with the back hand movement. This is movement No. 2.

Page forty-seven

The proper placing of a customer in a chair that he may be comfortable is as important Avoid as the actual shave. dropping the headrest too low or reclining the chair too much.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

The

left side of the upper frequently shaved with the free hand stroke from the corner of the honth toward the nose, but it is not advisable in case of a heavy growth.

lip

is

Back hand

(No.

2.)

When you have completed this section of the face, which is from the corner of the mouth to the point of the chin as far down as the jaw bone, you will again use the free hand movement over the right side of the upper

lip.

With the left hand you will touch the nose lightly to enable you to place the razor on the upper lip, shaving first the portion under the nose. Finish the right side of the lip with the free hand movement. This The direction the hair points coming out of the skin is called "with the grain." The opposite is

called "against the grain."

Shave with the grain is

possible.

all

that

it

is

movement No.

3.

There is some question, by barbers, regarding the best manner of shaving the upper lip. Some prefer to shave against the grain, shaving from the corner of the mouth to the nose on either side, but experience has taught us the beginner can better master this stroke by using the free hand on the right side and the back hand on the left.

Page

forty-eighl

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

In shaving the upper lip, avoid pinching the nose with the left hand ; just touch it lightly.

Free

hand

down

(No.

4.)

You now start at the point of the chin, holding the skin tight between the thumb and second finger of the left hand and shave down on the side of the neck as far as the grain of the hair will allow, being cautious always not to touch a hair against the grain. Continue to shave over this surface as far back as the ear.

ment No.

This

is

move-

4.

You will now step back of your customer for movement No. 5, a free hand stroke shaving the lower part of the neck up with the grain, stretching the skin on the neck between the thumb and fingers of the left hand, shaving on the surface that is

// the finger of the left hand placed lightly against the side of the nose and the thumb at the corner of the mouth, the skin on the upper lip can be is

stretched,

much

so stretched.

Page forty-nine

making

easier.

the

shave

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

In shaving the left side of the face, a great deal depends upon the position in which the customer's head is placed. It should be turned to the right but done without cramping the neck.

Left

side

back hand

(No.

6.)

Now

turn the face toward you with the at the back of the head at the headrest. You turn the head while left

hand placed

and the customer will let you choose to place if it, again strop your razor and re-lather and learn to the lather has become dry use your razor and lather brush in the same hand. Take your position directly back of the chair and with the back hand stroke start at the hair line on the other side of slightly lifting it

it

roll either direction

—

Keep the shave clean without scattering bits of lather over the shaved portion of the It looks mussy and inface. terferes with your drawing the skin tight under the razor.

—

the face, shaving down as far as the lower part of the ear. This is movement No. 6. Now use the free hand and shave the side of the face to the point of the chin as far down as the jaw bone. Also be careful that you shave the corner of the mouth

with this free hand movement.

movement No.

Page

fifty

7.

This

is

:E

BARBERS' MANUAL Things to Remember

There

is

a knack in keeping

the fingers of the left hand dry to better stretch the skin; and

a knack in stretching the skin when the fingers are moist. Never use alum.

Left side

Now

down back hand (No.

with the back hand shave the op-

posite side of the upper

No. site

9.)

lip,

movement

then continue shaving the opposide of the neck, starting at the point 8,

of the chin, shaving down as far as the grain will allow. This is the back hand stroke No. 9. Now step back of your customer, with the free hand stroke, shave the lower part of the opposite side of the neck up, No. 10.

The careful barber watches carefully the grain of the beard on the neck, and shaves zvith it.

Left side up free hand (No.10.)

Page

fifty-one

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

The nat

to

Remember

u r a

I

inclination

seems to require the razor handle between the second and third fingers but it should be held between the third and fourth.

Across chin free hand (No. 11.)

Now

turn the face up, always using the

hand for this purpose. Shave across the chin toward you with the free hand movement No. 1 1 and hold the skin tight under the razor by stretching it between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. left

,

Your first stroke is with the point of the razor, beginning at the upper part of the chin; your next stroke is with the center of your razor just a little lower on the There

is

a nicety in handling

the shaving paper as well as the linen. It easily musses.

Learn

to

keep

it

neat,

and your

sleeves out of the lather spread

on

it.

chin, and the third stroke is with the heel of the razor still farther down. I wish to caution you here to be sure and use every part of your razor in shaving the chin.

Now shave down with the free hand stroke No. 12 as far as the grain of the hair will allow, then step back of your customer and shave lower part of the neck up, free hand No. 13. Now you have left only the under

lip to

be shaved and you keep your

position back of the customer, shaving

Page

fifty-tzvo

up

THE BARBERS' MANUAL with

hand and

free stretch

the skin down by placing the finger of the left hand around the chin holding the skin tight. This is

Things

the

Number liar sliding

It

to

Remember

fourteen

is

and dipping

can only

be

a pecustroke.

acquired

by

practice.

movement No.

14. Under

You now

lip

free

hand (No.

14.)

apply the hot towel as before

and allow it to remain on the face while you strop your razor. Now hold your razor as for the free hand stroke except that you are sliding the razor further into the hand and with the ends of the fingers of the same hand, hold the water bottle and give a dash of water into the palm of the left

hand, moistening

so it will slide over the surface o f t h e it

face readily while going the second time over. If the floor is not to be scrubbed, confine the spray of water to moistening the hands, not the floor. Moisten only sufficiently to wet the palm. The customer may not be ready for his Saturday night bath.

Water

bottle

and razor

Page

fifty-three

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

The

to

Remember

difficulty here is to

keep

the finger and thumb from slipping on the moist surface

of the skin. There is a knack to it. If there weren't, bartering woidd be easy.

Second time over

Remove the towel and start the second time by shaving rather crosswise of the grain, not entirely with it, as you did the first time nor entirely against it as most barbers do.

Ascertain

whether

your

stroke is too light or too heavy by trying on a true friend who will tell you the truth, then let him try on you, and you will learn a lot.

The first stroke can be on the right side of the face from toward the eye to the ear, continuing down the side of the face to the jaw bone. You now continue down the side of the neck with the grain and up on the lower part of the neck as you did the first time over. Turn the face toward you and shave the opposite side giving the first stroke on the side of the face from the ear toward the eye, always being careful not to scrape or use undue pressure. Just a firm steady stroke for it can be too light as well as too heavy.

You will be able to use the free hand stroke over nearly the entire surface the second time over and there is no rigid or set rule about doing this part of the work. If your first time over has been carefully

Page

fifty-four

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

performed, there should be little shaving necessary the second time. It is intended only to catch the rough spots.

Now lay your razor down, pick up the steam towel used before, saturate it again with hot water and place it over the face as hot as the customer can comfortably stand it. Sometimes a cream or menthol preparation is applied to the face before the hot towel that steams it into the pores of the skin, but this may be according to the method of the shop or your customer's

to

Remember

The art of turning the head on the headrest is an important one. In this, the customer detects the barber's disposition or

state of

ful

mind.

movement

An is

easy, care-

necessary.

desires.

You may now remove and

the steam towel,

this is the time to talk Facial treat-

ments, but as it son we will omit

not part of this lesNow apply your face lotion, going through several of the facial movements, after which you remove from the breast the towel tucked in around the neck, straighten it, lay over the face and dry first by rubbing it over the face, always taking note of the spots that may be left moist, the corners of the eyes, around the nostrils, the lower parts of the is

it.

ears, etc.

Always thoroughly dry the face before proceeding with any other part of the work, as it is uncomfortable for the customer if the face is only partially dry. Just a little fanning with the towel held at each end is sufficient and in many instances no fanning at all is the customer's wish.

You now apply talcum powder by a very

little

sifting

into the towel folded in the

hand.

Page

fifty-five

If a razor too lightly,

is it

put on the face denotes lack of

confidence. If too heavily, it denotes carelessness. Have

confidence ness.

without

careless-

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

Never

to

a

lay

open; close

Remember

it

down

razor

carefully with

the finger and thumb at each side of the shank to keep the edge from striking the handle.

HANDLING TOWEL movement

actual work at the chair is used noi only for drying every part of the face but for washing it as and the properly trained barber never picks up a well, towel for this use that he does not handle it in this manner. There is a nicety in handling linen that commands business, and it should be practiced until all movements become easy and graceful. It can be practiced with a handkerchief or *ny cloth of convenient size.

This

Dry well.

the

customer's

You know how

to wash your face and wind dry it. Wipe dry,

fore fanning.

face

feels let the

it

be-

in

I wish to caution you about applying powder, do not pat a customer's face but go over the face in a downward stroke, and after having been applied, wipe off all you can with the dry towel or with the hands. If the face has been left moist, the powder will show in white spots. This is one reason why careful drying is essential.

Now

raise your chair with the customer an upright position in the chair, ascertain what other work may be desired, and to

Page

fifty-six

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

Tonic or even water can be so poorly applied to the scalp that

it

loses its effect.

It

must

carefully distributed through the hair and well rubbed in to be effective.

be

EXERCISE NO.

8

Hold the right hand directly in front of you with palm up, using the left hand to spread the center of the towel over the open palm. Now with the left hand, grasp firmly all of the lower folds of the towel and turn the fingers of the left hand toward the left, bringing them down underneath the left hand, raising the left hand as you turn, bringing the folds at the back of the right hand and at the same time turning the right hand over with back up.

The

folds

of

the towel are

now

held in the

left

hand

at the

back of the right hand.

The towel

is

easily shifted in the hand as it takes up the moistface by simply sliding it from the center of the

ure from the towel slightly toward one or the other edges. This enables you to hold the; towel smoothly over the palm of the hand, thereby giving use of the entire palm of the hand with its naturally soothing effect. '

if no tonics or scalp treatments are to be given, consult your customer as to whether he desires the hair to be combed wet or dry. If wet, apply the moisture from the water bottle, a sufficient amount of water to be used to moisten all of the hair, not a part of it, for it must all be moistened if any. Apply it with the bottle held in the right hand and with the left hand rub the moisture through the hair using a rotary move-

ment.

Page

fifty-seven

The reward for good hair combing is like the reward for painting a good picture. The pleasure of looking at it. Artistic temperament recognizes this.

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

to

Remember

// hair is to be combed dry, a touch of brilliantine sprayed over the brush, with an atomiser before using will help hold the hair in place.

When you have a sufficient imount of water, set the bottle down on the workstand, step directly back of the customer and rub the hair and scalp until the moisture is evenly distributed through the hair. Be careful that you have not an overabundance that will run from the hair onto the customer's garments. If you have noted, when your customer comes in, how his hair was combed, you will not need to ask him this when you are ready for the combing. If the hair is to be combed straight back, take your position back of the chair. Always use the comb in the right hand and the brush in the left, lean the head back just a little by taking the two hands and place it where you want it, still not in an uncomfortable position for your customer, start your comb and brush from the front, using them alternately until you have removed all of the tangles from the hair,

A

friendly greeting may put a customer at ease and sell you more goods. kindly parting word will have much to do

A

toward bringing him back.

and smooth it out. If you are to part the hair, take your position back of the chair and take your comb and throw the hair forward over the forehead and then take your position on the side that your customer parts his hair and make the part with your comb, and be careful to make the part straight in itself and

Then take your the hair on the opposite side out of the way until you are ready to step around the chair to comb straight with the head.

comb and simply throw

in position.

wish to caution you to be sure and use brush by coming down with the In this lower edge of the brush first. I

the

Page

fifty-eight

THE BARBERS' MANUAL Things

way you

are using the full width of the brush and will give a much smoother ef-

As you walk around the chair, fect. you follow your comb with your brush. Also, avoid your brush coming in contact with the ear, as this is very annoying to your customer.

You

you may comb the hair on perfectly flat and smooth, roach it up in front to show the

will note,

this side

down

or may different effects.

to

Remember

To gracefully handle linen high art. Get the swing of spreading the chair cloth and handling the tozvels. Often is

of your work impresses the boss, and holds or loses your job. this is the part

that

Careful combing is as important as careshaving for no matter how good the shave may have been, if your customer is not turned out improved in appearance, he is not satisfied. ful

any time a customer steps into the and you are not engaged, you attract his attention when you are through with your work and your chair is vacant by gently calling "next," or some movement that will signify you are ready to serve him. Avoid the loud, boisterous "next" that will have a tendency to scare him from the shop. If, at

shop,

an old customer whose name you have had an opportunity, in the past, to learn, speak his name as he passes you or as he looks in your direction deciding upon If he

is

Your thoughts

are detected touch of your fingertips. Never wait upon the trade when in a bad humor. in

the barber he will select. If he chooses another chair you may take your seat on the stool provided for you at the side of your workstand but never allow yourself to sit in the barber chair. This is one of the most unethical things a barber can do.

Page

fifty-nine

the

Four

Lesson

Subject

HAIRCUTTING Pompadours

"\^7E

our subjects of haircutting into two lessons, one the shorter trims and one the longer cuts. In this one I will give a Lesson on the longer cuts with their several variations. will divide

* *

Haircutting is an art and the degree of perfection that you attain will depend quite largely upon your artistic taste.

There is the same expression in the back of the head that you find in the face and the barber must use the same skill in forming his haircut that is displayed by the simple sculptor in molding a statue. forming of a clay figure does not indicate art it is the expression of the features or the pose that gives it the artistic touch, and so it is with the haircut. The trimming of a little here and there, bringing out the proper formation or expression, is the real art of the work, and this must be studied as well as practiced.

A

;

As

clipper

work

important with all an article on the use

is

haircuts, I give here

of clippers by courtesy of the Sharpe Mfg. Co.

Page sixty

Brown &

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

How

Use

to

Clippers By

A Head ^Barber

[By courtesy of the Brown &

Sbarpe Mfg. Co.l J

Providence, R. L, U. S. A.

DURING

my

twenty years or more of expehave had the opportunity to observe a great many barbers at work; especially is this true in later years when, in the capacity of an employer of barbers, I have watched more keenly their methods and the completed work. In this time I do not recall ever having seen two barbers who work in exactly the same manner, each having his own method of cutting hair a method which is peculiar to his own particular rience as a barber I

—

style.

In the olden days a first-class job was accomplished almost entirely with scissors, but since the

introduction of hair clippers for cutting

human

hair the tendency has been gradually to use clip-

pers more and more. We are now all acquainted with the present practice of using the clipper almost entirely for trimming the back of the neck and the sides of the head. The early history of the hair clipper is interesting. As I understand it, about forty years ago, so the story goes, some boys in Providence, R. I., hit upon the novel idea of clipping their own hair with a pair of horse clippers to keep themselves cool. The experiment was a great success. Some wit called it "the pineapple clip" and it soon be-

came the

prevailing style for

summer

haircuts.

Page sixty-one

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Of course barbers were not satisfied to use the heavy and awkward horse clippers that were operated with two hands and as a result a smaller and easier-working model was developed especially for the barber's use. The neat, handy clipper that you can buy today at almost any hardware store is the ultimate result of the improvements which have been made in the old style horse clippers. As the use of clippers became more general, barbers quickly appreciated the time and labor saved in using them. Today clippers are an essential part of the barber's equipment.

Different Methods

As I have previously said, I believe no two barbers cut hair in exactly the same way. Consequently there may be some barbers who would advise other methods than mine. But as the result of my own practical experience I believe I am safe in offering the following general suggestions for the use of clippers.

How To Hold

the Clipper

First of all I cannot emphasize too strongly the importance of holding the clipper properly because the balance of the clipper itself and the appearance of the finished job are largely dependent upon it. I f you will examine the handles you will see that one of them is stationary and that they differ slightly in shape. I suppose that they were so designed after a good deal of thought and experience in order to fit perfectly in the hand, and that is why I believe they should be held as illustrated in Fig. 1. Notice that the thumb is held flat along the handle and that the little "ear" comes just back of the first ioint. The handle runs back along the thumb, with

Page sixty-two

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

Hold

the clipper with a natural grip and use a full strode

Fig.

its

I

end well into the palm of the hand; thus, when

the fingers operate the lever of the clipper, a good support is provided for the stationary handle. The lever should be operated

by the fingers

at approxi

mately the first joint. Permitting the fingers to extend too far around the lever results in a cramped position that soon tires the hand. When properly held the clipper may be operated for a considerable length of time without fatigue and still maintain throughout a full stroke of the clipper blades.

have observed barbers holding clippers in different ways and yet all follow out more or less the method outlined above. The most common difference is the position of the thumb as some barbers have a tendency to crook it slightly about the ear on the handle. I

many

Use a Full Stroke The proper operation of the clipper depends to a great extent upon taking a full stroke. By taking a full stroke is meant that the operating lever

Page

sixty-three

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

should be pressed in to the limit and, when released, be permitted to return to its extreme position. You will notice that the upper plate has fewer teeth than the lower. Therefore it is necessary to take a full stroke so that the upper plate may travel the full width of the lower plate, allowing all the teeth to cut, otherwise all the teeth will not cut and the clipper will "pull." This, as you undoubtedly know from experience, is unpleasant and is usually due to the barber's carelessness. It is also very important to start operating the clipper with a full movement before entering the hair and to continue operating it until after it is out of the hair. I have acquired a little personal habit of operating the clipper when I take it from the cabinet. The few seconds it takes to walk from the cabinet to a working position beside my customers is sufficient to make sure that the clipper "feels" in good condition and that it is taking a full stroke before cutting the hair. If the operation of the clipper is stopped while the plates are in the hair, or if the clipper is fed or pushed into the hair too fast for the speed at which the handles are operated, it will surely "pull." One of the difficult things for the beginner to learn is to feed the clipper into the hair steadily and at the right speed. Most barbers sprinkle a little talcum powder on the neck if the skin is moist, as it assists in obtaining a smooth and even "feed."

Clipping

and '"Tapering"

begin clipping at the back of the neck, yet I that many barbers prefer to start on the sides of the head. In either case the results obtained are the same and this is a matter of personal choice. With a No. 1 "Bressant" Brown & I

know

Page

i'ucty-four

THE BARBERS' MANUAL

In starting

to clip

up

the

back °f the neck, the heel is raised slightly, being lowered gradually as the cut progresses

Fig. 2

Sharpe Clipper (and, by the way, I have used & Sharpe Clippers exclusively for twenty years or more) I start to clip at the base of the neck as shown in Fig. 2 with the heel or the extreme back of the bottom plate of the clipper

Brown

slightly raised, gradually lowering the heel as I

upward. At the point where it is desired to begin to taper the hair, lift the front part of the clipper slightly from the neck by tilting the clipper so that it rests on the heel of the clipper, as illustrated in Fig. 3. This tilting motion should be gradual and increase in proportion to the amount clip

To taper, lift the front of the clipper slightly away from the neck., tilting the clipper so that it rests on the heel of th

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