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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

Rapunzel      

Crochet Pattern                                                        

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka @chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

A message for you!   Hello  dear  fellow  crocheters!  My  name  is  Chiara  (pronounced  “Kiara”,  as  I’m  Italian)  and  I’m  not  only  the  girl  in  the  picture  down  there  but,  most  importantly,  the  person  behind  the  Instagram  account @chiacrafts!    In  the  very  beginning,  crochet  was  something  I  used  to  do  just  for  my  own  sake:  it  was  nothing  more  than  a  Sunday  hobby,  to  keep  my  mind  busy  and  far  away  from  disaster  fantasies...  Never  would  I have imagined achieving such success! I then started sharing instructions to reproduce my  amigurumis,  mainly  as  a  way  of  thanking  all  my  followers  for  their  enthusiasm  (and  because  of  the large amount of requests! :) )    These  free  patterns  are  a  token  of  my  appreciation  for  your  support,  a  present  for  you.  Overall  they  are  written  with  accuracy  and  style  very  close  to  my  paying  patterns:  this  is, IMO, one more  reason  to  respect  them! Please, pay attention to the instructions reported in the licence, and try to  comply with my wishes indicated there:)    If  you’ve  been  following  me  for  a  while,  you  know  this  is  the  second  version  of  this  pattern.  The  base  is  very  similar  to  the  old  one,  but I’ve made a few changes to make it easier to follow and to  reproduce!  If  it’s  really  important  for  you  to  get  a  hold  of  the  old  pattern,  please  contact  me  on  instagram :)     Just  let  me  thank  you  once  again  for  your  love  and  support.  You’re  all  a  source  of  great  motivation for me!   

Cheers, Chiara    

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

Licence Hello,  and  thank  you  for  being  about  to  try  out  this  pattern!  It  was  made  with  a  lot  of  love  and  personal effort :)    Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind ;)    DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also  prohibited.  The fact this pattern has been provided to you for free DOESN’T MEAN it’s copyright free or that  you can do whatever you want with it. On the contrary, the fact it’s a present should motivate you  to respect it even more!   DO NOT reuse my pictures.    DO  NOT  use  it  as  a  base  to  create  your  original  characters.  ​Remember  that  my wish is for this  free  pattern  to  be  used  to  reproduce  this  character only: if you do it for practice, please keep it off  social media :)     This pattern is intended for personal use only.    Please  give  me  credits  when  posting  online  by  always  adding  “​Pattern  by  @chiacrafts​”  and  #chiacraftspatterns  (both).  If  you  don’t  post  online,  I  would  very  much like to receive a picture of  your work anyway :D    Please  respect  my  copyright,  my  wishes  and  my  hard work. Support me and help me carry on  this activity. Thank you for listening :)    For  any  doubt,  you  can  contact  me  via  PM  on  Instagram  or by email. I DO NOT answer questions  via  private  message  on  Ravelry,  but  you  have  all  the  information  to  contact  me  otherwise.  I  always answer :)         

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

Read Me!

Abbreviations

Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be  afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they are so  small it’s quite fast :)   It's a good practice to read the entire document  before starting. Knowing what to expect will  help you pay attention! 

US standard abbreviations + something I’ve made up ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Indications ★ Work  through  the  entire  stitch,  not  FLO or  BLO (unless specified otherwise)  ★ At  the  beginning  of  each  ​row  ​of  sc,  you  must  work  a  turning  chain.  It’s  not  indicated  in  the  pattern  but  it’s reported in  the diagrams  ★ After  a  chain,  always  work  from  second  loop from hook (if not indicated otherwise)  ★ If  you’re  left  handed,  everything  is  specular for you! 

★ ★ ★

Color change

★

Always perform the color change on the second  half of the previous stitch.  Example:  ● Color change on a sc:​ insert the hook, YO,  pull through, ​pick the new color,​ YO, pull  through both loops on your hook. 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★

R=R ​ ound (continuous or joined)  Row = r​ ow  MR = ​ Magic Ring  st = ​ stitch  sc = ​ single crochet  inc = ​ sc increase (invisible)  dec = ​ sc decrease (invisible)  dc = ​ double crochet  hdc = ​ half double crochet  ch = ​ chain  sl = ​ slip stitch  tr = ​ treble crochet  BLO  ​=  back  loop  only  (corresponds  to  the  inner loop when working in rounds)  FLO  ​=  front  loop  only  (corresponds  to  the  outer loop when working in rounds)  Ldec  ​=  Line  decrease,  decrease  at  the  beginning of a row  [  ]  =  means  that  the  stitches  are  to  be  done in the same loop or stitch  CY-PO  =  cut  the  yarn  and  pull  it  out  from  the stitch  IJ​ = Invisible Join  FO = f​ asten off (CY-PO + IJ)  stsc = s​ tanding sc  tch = ​ turning chain  rc = ​ rising chain   

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

Note on the yarn

Materials ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

   

For this project I’ve used yarn for a 3.0 hook and,  as usual when working amigurumis, I’ve worked it  with a hook 1 size smaller than indicated to better  work the body tight, thus avoiding holes in the  crochet from which the stuffing would be visible  or fall through.  You should get a good result with this pattern as  long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work the  body with a hook 1 size smaller than indicated,  and scale the rest of the hooks accordingly.  Still, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn much  thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy result:  maximum 1 size bigger! 

2.0 mm hook  3.0 mm hook  Tapestry needle  8mm black safety eyes  Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other)  Yarn all in the same size of the following  colors:  ○ Peach (skin)  ○ Mustard (hair)  ○ Pink (dress)  ○ Antique pink (dress)  ○ Violet (dress)  ○ White (dress)  ○ Grey (pan)  ○ Tiny scraps of white, green and  black to work the details and eyes  embroidery   

Dimensions Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most  importantly, working tight!!!), the dimensions of  the finished doll are 12x5cm.

Note on the eyes The right safety eyes size depends on the doll’s  dimensions! Don’t purchase 8mm eyes if you’re  not sure the dimensions of your doll will be  similar to mine’s. My advice is to purchase a box  with many different sizes, and use the one which  better suits your doll. 

5   

Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

R17: 18 sc (18)  R18: 18 sc BLO (18)  It’s  ​important  ​for  you  to  work  R18  BLO,  the  skirt  will be worked in the FL left!  R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)  Booty finished :)  R20: 16 sc (16)  R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)  R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)  R23:  2  sc,  1  sc changing to peach, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc  dec  (10)  ​(the  color  change  must  be  done  on  the  back)  Start stuffing the body 

Legs Hook: 2.0  Work tight  Start with brown yarn  R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)  R2-R13: 6 sc (6)  Make 2 legs.  The legs don’t need stuffing!  CY-PO after making the first leg. Leave a long tail  in case some sewing should be needed.  Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg  instead; you’ll keep on working from there to join  the legs.   

  R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)  Stop  to  work  a  row  of  white  surface  sl  stitches  between  R22  and  R23,  on  top  of  the  color  change.  Do  these  sl  before  stuffing  up  to  that  point! Work using the 2.0 hook, but very loosely.  To  make  the  sl  stitches,  first  insert  your  hook  under the color change st and pull out a loop 

 

Body Hook: 2.0  Work tight  Work starting from the 2nd leg made.   As a first thing, change color to antique pink  Join the legs:  R14:  3  sc  in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc  in back side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)  (Start working in the 1st leg done from the 1st st  of R13!)  R15: 16 sc (16)  Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!  R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18) 

 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

 

  Then  insert  your  hook  below  the  next  st  and  pull  out a second loop 

Then keep working in peach color:  R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)  Now 2 rounds for the neck  R26-R27: 6 sc (6​)  Neck done, now we start the head  R28: 6 inc (12)  R29: 12 inc (24)  R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)  At this point, your stitch marker should be on the  left side of the doll, as in the following picture.  Take into account that the increases of R31  should be done on the front: 

  Lastly complete the sl 

    Proceed this way all along the color change line,  end with an IJ: 

    R31: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45)  R32-R33: 45 sc (45)  R34: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38)  R35-R40: 38 sc (38)  R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)  Stop and place the safety eyes between R36 and  R37 (count from the top on the front, it will be  easier) 8 sc apart: 

  You can also add some embroideries: 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

 

And add an eyelash 

  You can also make the embroidery for the eyes as  explained below. If it shouldn’t be clear enough,  I’d advise you to take a look at the video tutorial  I’ve published on instagram!    First position the threads and the eye (clip it using  the washer)   

 

 

  TIP​: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the  eyes will tilt towards the outside. It’s a good trick  to straighten them using some threads placed  inside the head! You might place them afterwards  or prepare them while crocheting the head, just in  case you might need it. Make them pass here: 

Bring up the white and colored threads: 

 

And then out on the back. 

Cross the black part: 

 

      If you need to straighten the eyes, simply pull  these strings gently (after having stuffed and  closed the head)! 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

  You  can  also  embroider  the  nose  and  the  eyebrows :)     Keep on working the head:  R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)  R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)  Keep  stuffing  while  closing  the  head!  The  head  must be stuffed firmly  R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)  R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)  R46: 6 dec (6)  CY-PO  leaving  a  long  tail  for  sewing.  Using  a  tapestry  needle,  pass  the  tail  through  all  the  FLs  of  the  last  round,  and  pull.  Make  a  knot  and  hide  the yarn inside the doll’s body.    Here’s the result so far! 

Arms Hook: 2.0  Work tight  Start with peach yarn  R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)  R2-R3: 5 sc (5)  Change to pink  R4: 5 sc BLO (5)  R5-R7: 5 sc (5)  Change to antique pink  R8: 5 sc BLO (5)  R9: 5 sc (5)  Change to white  R10: 5 sc BLO (5)  Then make  slip stitch, turn without making the turning  chain, skip the sl, make 2 sc, one more slip stitch  and CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing.  This gives you the curvature for the shoulder!  The arms don’t need stuffing  Make 2.   

    Keeping the arm with the peach part up work, in  the FLs marked as “1”, a row made of:  1 sc, (ch 1, 1 sc in the next FL) x 4, FO 

 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

 

 

  Now pull out a loop of antique pink yarn from one  of the FLs marked as “2” in this position: 

And then one sc in the next FL “3” (marked in  yellow in the previous picture) and another dc in  the FL “2” right below (marked in green in the  previous picture. proceed as in the following  diagram, and then FO   

 

    You don’t need to work all around, otherwise this  poofy part will make the arms stick away from the  body. Better not to work the part right below the  “armpit”: 

 

  Now make a dc in the FL “3” right upon it (marked  in yellow in the previous picture) 

 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

Now sew the arms to the body.  First right upon the sl line 

 

Then sew them to the body

 

 

and FO 

  Then pass inside the other extremity of the  shoulder curvature

 

 

 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

I’ve then added two simple lines in antique pink to  make a decor on the dress: 

Skirt Hook: 2.0  Work normally, not too tight  Start with violet yarn  Start working in the FLs left at R17, keep the doll  head down and work clockwise 

  R1: 1 stsc, 17 sc (18)  R2: (1 sc, inc) x 9 (27)  Now switch to a 3 ​ .0 hook​, work relaxed, the  stitches must be kind of big!  R3-R8: 27 sc (27)  R9: 27 sc FLO, FO (27)  Using white yarn and ​2.0 hook​, make a round  parallel to R9, working in the BL left from R8  R9//: stsc, (ch 2, sc in next BL of R8) x 27 

   

     

 

   

12   

Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

Take your time to adjust the way you work, get a  thick strand and find your n.  For me it was n ​ =35    Proceed working a second strand identical to this  first one. Work in series from the end of the first  strand, without cutting the yarn.  You should make enough strands (“​m​” strands)  to cover the back of the head and leave space for  2 more strands on the front (see also the rest of  the explanation to better understand).

Hair wig Hook: 3.0  Work very loosely  Work with mustard yarn  Giving you exact instructions on how to make  these kinds of hair wigs is very difficult, as slight  differences in the way you work could have a big  impact. Instead of giving you the plain pattern, I’ll  teach you how to find out the measures most  appropriate for you. Anyway, step by step, you’ll  find the exact instructions to reproduce what I did  as well :)  Start by making a long c​ h n​, and work in each  loop starting from the 2nd loop from hook ​n-1  hdc​ (don’t add any chain, just the plain stitch).  “n” should be so that the strand created results  more or less like the one in the pictures below. 

  I’ve made 6 of them, m=6  Always working in series, crochet a chain longer  than the previous ones: it will need to run down  the side as the previous ones, and then cover the  tips of all the previous strands (see following  pictures).  This strand will be long t​ .​   In my case t​ = 61​.  From the end of this chain, work sc up to the chin,  and hdcs in the remaining loops.  In my case I’ve made c​ h 61, 50 sc, 10 hdc​.   Without cutting the yarn, work the following  crescent-shaped part (work in rows):  Row1: ch 13 (12)  Row2: 12 sc, turn(12)  Row3: 6 dec, turn (6)  Row4: 3 dec, turn (3)  Row5: skip 1st st, dec (1)  End working one more sc stripe, this must be very  long. I’ve made it long z​ = 85.    Overall you’ve got:   (ch n, (n-1) hdc) x m,  (ch t, x sc, y hdc) x 1,  crescent shaped part,  (ch z, (z-1) sc), FO 

  I’m working very loosely, so this strand is quite  thick! 

 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

  My exact measures are  (ch 35, 34 hdc) x 6,  (ch 61, 50 sc, 10 hdc) x 1,  crescent shaped part,  (ch 85, 84 sc), FO 

We’ve prepared single strands even if we’re  going to seam them together because in this way  the overall hair will remain more supple.    To make it crooked, sew the first st of a strand to  the 2nd st of the following one 

Keep on seaming through both strands 

 

 

  We’re first going to seam together the shorter  strands, a bit crooked as in the following picture:   

Here’s the final result 

 

Now sew the t strand to the last n strand and  then to the tip of all the previous strands: 

 

 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

Then sew the z strand to the first n strand, so that  to close the hair style 

   

    Once you’ve reach the end, sew the t and the z  extremities together (the t is shorter than the z  one) 

 

 

 

15   

Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

This is what you’ve got so far, a sort of hollow  crocheted banana: 

 

The wig is now complete.  Position it on top of the head to adjust it: 

 

  Pass a thread through the bases of each strand,  pull and make a knot: 

  And sew it to the top of the head first: 

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Crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon ​@chiacrafts 

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts  https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 

 

     

R3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)  R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 BLO (24)  R5: ch 11, 10 sc from second loop from hook of  the ch you’ve just made, sl in next sc of R4, FO 

And then all around back of the head: 

 

 

Congratulations, your Rapunzel is ready! Don’t forget to send me a picture and tag me /  give me credits / use my hashtag when posting  online!  All info is in the licence!    Look at the differences with my previous version…  and remember it’s worth it to keep practicing!   

  If you want, you can give it some more stitches on  the top to sculpt it a bit: 

  Last, fix the crescent-shaped part to the side.   

Pan Hook: 2.0  Work tight  Start with grey yarn  R1: 6 sc in MR (6)  R2: 6 inc (12) 

   

 

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