• Author / Uploaded
• vittamsetty

• Categories
• Moda
• Moda y belleza
• Zapato
• Ropa
• Pantalones

Citation preview

Chapter-1 1.1 Introduction: Fashion is a term, which is referred to as a state of mind. This word comes from Latin word, which means, "to make." Fashion is most commonly associated with clothing, but it even applies to anything from interior architecture, to models of toys. It is a spirit, where an individual is comfortable with his mode of clothing and converts this comfort into a personal style. It is a way of measuring a mood that can be useful in many aspects, culturally, socially even psychologically. Perhaps the most distinctive quality about the fashion since the early times is that it is increasing in simplicity. However, fashion is commonly used to describe a style of clothing worn by most people of a country. Thus, as the word goes, fashion is generally associated with, textile, garments and trends. The word textile refers to woven cloths. It is a way of celebrating the diversity and variety of the world in which we live. A fashion remains popular for the period of time that a large segment of society accepts it; that could be for a few months or years. However, it is normal for the fashion trends to change according to the seasons. For instance, during summers the common colors worn are the pastel shades and lighter fabric. Come winter and the preferred color ranges are the darker and brighter ones and the fabric is heavier. Each season does bring into fashion a particular color and style. The trend of the sixties and seventies are in, with the gypsy style being a preference. Fashion is not just limited to female fraternity even men have been taken over by the fashion world. They have become more conscious of what is in and what is not. They pay more attention to their appearance than hey did earlier. Children are also aware and prefer to wear what is in fashion. While seasons are a major contributory factor, the glamour world of modeling and acting are the actual fashion leaders. Fashion houses endorse the latest trends through the media. So to know what’s happening and what’s not, you need to keep a keen watch on what models and actors are wearing, what kind of make up do they have on and even their hair-do depends on the present fashion trend. So who said that keeping in times is difficult? Expensive maybe, but yet not beyond one’s reach! For centuries individuals or societies have used clothes and other body decoration as a form of nonverbal communication to indicate occupation, rank, gender, sexual availability, locality, class, and wealth and group affiliation. Fashion not only embraces clothing, but also hairstyles, body art, shoes, bags, jewelers and beauty products all

1

constitute today’s fashion trends. Fashion in all its forms from a tattooed and pierced navel, to the newest hairstyle, is the best form of iconography we have to express individual identity. As far as clothes are concerned, fashion is based on fabric, color and cuts. Fashion is something we deal with everyday. And one thing certain in the fashion world is change. The collections in Paris, New York and Milan, and now London, typically set the stage for the industry one-year in advance. Fashion stylists too get new fashion ideas from music, videos, books, television and even movies. Even the street is the real barometer of style. More and more designers are drawing their inspiration from life on the street. Indian fashion has some prominent names to boast off, like Ritu Kumar, Suneet Varma, JJ Vallaya, Ashish Soni. If a particular clothing or accessory is depicted by famous personalities, it definitely becomes a trend for the people to follow the same. Films have become catalogues and people are copying from the particular style of actors and icons. Actors like Amitabh Bachchan and Shah Rukh Khan, to name a few are considered as the trendsetters for the youth. However, Indian consumers are the ones, which give the Indian fashion a distinctive quality and a mark of its own, here in India and in the international market as well. Thus, from various surveys one can say that India has about three categories of buyers. •

The hi-class, people who are fashion conscious and who go for labels and name. Instead of the budget, they are more interested in designer clothing.

•

The upper middle class people who are fashion conscious and who make it a point to stay up to date with the ongoing fashion trends.

•

The last and final category consists of the youth, corporate group, who look out for regular wear clothesline and are budget conscious.

What we wear and how and when we wear it, depicts our personality for changing situations. It is from the clothes a person wears that we get our first impression of personality. They provide mental clues to a person’s status and occupational role, as well as being a means of conforming to peer group expectations. Fashion is important to us because it’s a means of self-expression. It helps to identify ourselves with a group of others like us--whether it’s a lifestyle, a religion, a profession, or an attitude. Thus, there are many reasons we wear what we wear.

Chapter-2 2

2.1 History: 2.1.1 Early twentieth century: • • •

• •

Around the start of the twentieth century fashion style magazines began to include photographs and became even more influential than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public taste. By the end of the nineteenth century, the horizons of the fashion industry had generally broadened, partly due to the more mobile and independent lifestyle many well-off women were beginning to adopt and the practical clothes they demanded. The S-Bend corset was very tightly laced at the waist and so forced the hips back and the drooping mono bosom was thrust forward in a pouter pigeon effect creating an S shape. The S-Bend corset was very tightly laced at the waist and so forced the hips back and the drooping mono bosom was thrust forward in a pouter pigeon effect creating an S shape.

2.1.2 1910’s: • • • •

During the early years of the 1910s the fashionable silhouette became much more lithe, fluid and soft than in the 1900s. Simple felt hats, turbans, and clouds of tulle replaced the styles of headgear popular in the 1900s. It is also notable that the first real fashion shows were organized during this period in time. 1915 fashionable skirts had risen above the ankle and then later to mid-calf.

2.1.3 1920’s: • • • • • •

Dresses with long trains gave way to above-the-knee pinafores Women borrowed their clothes from the male wardrobe and chose to dress like boys. Embroidery and showy accessories are started. The [cloche] hat was widely-worn and sportswear became popular with both men and women during the decade. Channel helped popularize the bob hairstyle, the little black dress, and the use of jersey knit for women's clothing and also elevated the status of both costume jewelry and knitwear. Dazzling embroideries, and beaded decorations in light, clear, floral colors that eventually became a popular.

3

•

Heels, at the time, were often over two inches high and Coco Chanel helped popularize the two-tone shoe, one of her trademarks.

2.1.4 1930’s: • • • • • •

Women's fashions moved away from the brash, daring style of the Twenties towards a more romantic, feminine silhouette. The waist was restored to its proper position, hemlines dropped, there was renewed appreciation of the bust, and backless evening gowns and soft, slimfitting day dresses became popular. The female body was remodeled to a more neo-classical shape and slim, toned, and athletic bodies came into vogue. The term 'ready-to-wear' was not yet widely used, but the boutiques already described such clothes as being 'for sport'. Evening dresses that fitted the body without excessive elaboration or dissimulation. Toward the end of the decade, women's fashions took on a somewhat more imposing and broad-shouldered silhouette.

2.1.5 1940’s: • • • • •

From 1940 onward, no more than four meters (thirteen feet) of cloth was permitted to be used for a coat and a little over one meter (three feet) was all that allowed for a blouse. No belt could be over 3 centermeters0 (one and a half inches) wide.. Transformed boots into a major fashion accessory. In 1944, started to produce original and imaginative sportswear. Among young men in the War Years the zoot suit (and in France the zazou suit) became popular.

2.1.6 1950’s: • • • • • •

1950s, far from being revolutionary and progressive, bore strong nostalgic echoes of the past. Despite the fact that women had the right to vote, to work, and to drive their own cars, they chose to wear dresses made of opulent materials, with corseted waists and swirling skirts to mid-calf. In 1951, totally transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1957. In 1959, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimonos. From 1952 onwards, ample bust, narrow waist, and full skirts, by mastery of cut and imaginative assemblies of fabrics in subtle color combinations.

4

2.1.7 1960’s A-Line: • • • • •

•

• •

•

• • •

•

The 60’s opened with the simple A-line dress. Most dresses were very simple and so accessories were both expressive and bold. Some fashion history writers have called this era the “Great masquerade.” Eyes were lined with black, shadowed with frosty white, and topped off with a full set of false eyelashes. Lips were painted light to white. Twiggy was the top model. She was long and lean, which was a break from the fleshed Edwardian beauty seen in some form up through the 1950’s. Everything seemed to go. The length might be mini, micro-mini, midi, or maxi. Even mixing these lengths was fashionable; a mini skirt with a maxi coat or vest. Maxi coats and sweater coats were really practical in cold climates for the mini skirt wearer. The “warbabies” or Baby Boomers, infants born immediately after the war ended in 1945, were maturing. By 1960 teenagers were a powerful group. In France, by the 1960’s one-third of the population was under the age of 20. In the United States, fully one-half of the population was under 25. This enormous group of energetic young also had their own minds for fashion and were not dictated to by Paris or by anyone else. The 1960’s was a time of action, violence, protest, rebellion, experimentation, and counterculture. Dramatic events took place during this decade and dramatic changes in fashion occurred. The 60-70’s catered to the youth both in advertising and production in the clothing industry. Teenagers had money to spend (3.5 billion on apparel in 1965,) and enjoyed keeping up with the latest trends. During these years two sets of fashion developed side by side: fashion for the young and fashion for the rest of society. No other landmark of the 60’s was the pants suit. “Women had attempted pants since the days of Mrs. Bloomer. Chanel, in the 1930’s made them acceptable as sportswear and during the war years overall and jeans were a practical necessity. But trousers for women always had decided overtones of the resort or the assembly line. They had never been totally respectable. A major fashion breakthrough of the late 60’s was the tailored pants suit. It was seen everywhere and was chic, elegant, comfortable, and convenient, not to mention practical. There were three major movements during the 60’s that helped to shape fashion: First – The Civil Rights Movement sparked an impressive move to ethnic fashion. Blacks and whites alike found interest in the African colors and prints. Afro hairstyles were worn by most blacks and some whites used perms to get the Afro hairstyle. Some Afros could be measured at 3 inches above the scalp going straight up and straight out. Most were shorter and more natural looking. The expression of the day was “Black is Beautiful.” Second – The Women’s Liberation Movement caused women to burn their bras and wear men’s clothing. The “unisex” clothing, clothing worn by both sexes, is

5

•

•

•

•

•

a result of this movement coupled with the sexual revolution that was taking place at the same time. Girls turned to pants because they preferred the long, clean, “liberating” line. Boys wore embroidered shirts and beads because peasant embroidery and bright colors offered a liberation from the notion of what had been masculine taste for 150 years. Women’s underwear went from wired bras to no bras at all or stretchy elastic bras with little or no support. The tight 1950’s girdles with garters and nylon stockings that ended mid-thigh, were knocked into history by the comfortable one-piece nylon pantyhose. Third – The Peace Movement (or anti-Vietnam War Movement.) The Vietnam War was not anywhere as popular or supported as the two world wars had been. This war had the opposite effect on the country; instead of pulling the country together to save resources, the country was pulled apart. Everyone took sides. The teenagers who revolted against the war and the “established” way of living, and working were called “hippies.” The hippie dress was a throw back to the beatniks of the 1950’s. It was a casual, sometimes sloppy dress. The main focus was self-expression. Whatever you wanted to wear, you wore. The hippies were not a majority of the teenagers, it should be noted, although some of the fashions spilled into the mainstream teen fashion. The most memorable fashion details of this era would be bell bottoms, miniskirts, and platform shoes. Others include the A-line skirt and dress, boots, and the “Mod Look” brought to the United States by the Beatles and other musical groups. It was called the “British invasion” but it wasn’t a reference to the military, but rather an invasion of American culture. The music, fashion, hairstyles, and makeup, to name a few were transferred across the Atlantic and took the 60’s by storm.

2.1.8 The Invention of the MINI skirt: •

•

•

The mini was one fashion that hit early in the 60’s. It was the design of Mary Quant from Wales. She is regarded as the mother of the mini and high boots; shoulder bags and the “poor boy”sweater. “Pop” and “Mod” were terms also borrowed from the British to describe fashion of this time. Another word used to describe the 60’s is psychedelic. It was at least true for the colors and fabrics of that time. Floral patterns reflected the “flower power” theme of the hippie movement. Daisies, mums, and other flowers adorned everything from fabrics to wallpaper, from busses to vans. The colors were bright and bold. Jacqueline O. Kennedy also stood out at this time to represent a more conservative fitted dress favored by many women.

2.1.9 1970’s SHOES: •

For women: platforms and clogs.

6

• •

•

•

For men soft leather or leather with contrasting designs. Fashions in the 70’s were extremely flexible. Most people dressed to identify with their particular lifestyle rather than fit into any fashion mold sent from Paris or anywhere else. Man-made fibers had progressed due to the high tech of the day. Polyester, that had been developed as early as 1939 and shelved until after the war, was a very popular fiber. It was blended with natural fibers giving the fabric the advantages of both fiber groups. Some men’s suits were fashioned in 100% polyester and marketed as the wash and wear suit. It was called the “leisure suit” and had a brief moment in time. It was very casual with buttons down the front, patch pockets, and bell bottoms. It was comfortable and easy to care for, as well as being wrinkle-resistant. The hippie influence was still seen in bright beads, embroidery on shirts, Levi pants and jackets, and tie-dyed fabrics. Long hair was a hot topic; first seen as a sign of rebellion, and later accepted as fashionable, “in moderation.” Sideburns were worn long; beards and moustaches were popular for both teenagers and their parents.

Disco Fever and the Bell Bottom: •

•

Teen styles were extreme. Pants were worn skin tight; hip hugger pants and skirts were worn with hip belts; a wide bell bottom style was popular n pant legs and sleeves. In the early 70’s cuffs on trouser style pants for both men and women were reintroduced. Pant legs got wider and wider and were worn long enough to cover the shoe and scrape the floor. Platform shoes got higher and higher with very chunky heels.

1970’s Hair: •

Hair for teenage girls… the longer and straighter the better. Orange juice and soup cans were recycled into curlers to straighten out hopelessly wavy or curly hair. If the cans didn’t work, then girls tried to iron their hair straight. Full bangs were worn long enough to cover the eyebrows, but not long enough to merge with the false eyelashes.

From Conservative to Dramatic: • •

Angel sleeves shown below are yards of fabric added on the sleeve for a dramatic look. In contrast, cardigans Are also in style during This time, especially on Mr. Rodgers!

7

2.1.10 1980’s: •

•

The fitness craze of the late 1970’s brought a major change to the athletic clothing industry. Spandex was in; comfort and function were paramount. Men and women hit the gyms, spas, and athletic centers in droves creating a big market for athletic clothes that were not only functional but attractive and flattering. Lycra in bright colors worn with “leggings” and thick socks pushed down to the ankles in puddles, was the preferred fabric for aerobic exercises. The old “gym shoe” was replaced with 100 or more different kinds of specialized sports shoes. Whatever you planned to do, there was a special shoe to do it in.

1980’s Working Girl: •

During the 1980’s many women continued in or joined the work force. In order to be taken seriously by some, women needed a better fashion image at he office. The “power suit” was designed. It was a broad-shouldered lapel jacket worn with a white or light colored blouse (feminine but not too sexy or lacy)’ a skirt was worn with the jacket. Pants were seen as too casual. The power color for the power suit could be navy, black, gray, burgundy, but not brown. Pump shoes were appropriate; not too high for the heels but not completely flat either.

1980’s Look: • •

Colors in women’s dresses were very rich; fabrics were fluid and flowing. Rayon, improved by new technology during the 70’s was a very popular fabric. Ramie was a popular natural fabric added to cotton or acrylic for luster. The oversized shirt, sweater, and sweatshirt look was in. Some were huge through the shoulders, bustline, and waist, and narrowed to the thighs. Some tops were worn long and belted.

80’sThe Stars Shine Again: • •

Fashions focused on many music stars styles. Rock star, Madonna, release a video in 1985 wearing ripped jeans, lace, and lacy bustier. That launched the camisole craze worn with jeans, pants, or skirts and jackets.

8

•

Michael Jackson was a hit with his breakdancing and one gloved hand.

80’s - Couture: • • • • •

The fashion industry became more international. Many designers turned out up to 20 collections a year. Mass-market fashion and catalogs got much better. Couturiers decided to rip themselves off for a change and started a score of less expensive lines. AIDS thinned out many talented fashion designers.

80’s Still More Comfort Wear: • • • •

Day-Glo Body Glove answered women’s request for walking and running wear. Reeboks became “public transport.” The bodysuit made a comeback, focusing on a trim torso, wide shoulders, trip waist and hips. Jane Fonda creates designer sweats for her aerobic workouts.

80’s - Brand Names: • • • •

Brands began to cover all clothing. The name on apparel was usually more important than the item itself. Guess? Jeans hit the stores in 1981. Swatch watches hit big in 1983. The first Benetton shop opens in the U.S.

80’s Textiles & Prints: • • • • • • •

The early 80’s were concerned with the environment, natural fabrics like cashmere and cotton were very popular. Real furs were banned or shunned by many. Later 80’s brought a desire for man-made rayon and the acetates. T-shirts were printed with animal prints, OP art designs, puff paints, sequins and fringe. Blue denim shirts and jeans, western details, jeans and blanket coats were great. Ethnic prints, nautical styles and country prints were big the last half of the decade. Men’s ties sprouted floral pattern and bold bright colors. Shorts became a year ‘round style using fabrics like denim and corduroy and are worn both by guys and girls.

9

80’s Fashion Victim & The European V: •

•

It would be hard to understand the woman of the 80’s by looking at the fashions of the time. There were power suits on one hand and very sexy, frivolous fashions on the other. Don’t forget the athletic attire and casual at-home clothes. This was the decade when women wanted it all; husband, children, career. And time for self expression. All of these needs required special clothes Shoulders were severely padded in the mid 80’s. Shoulder pads appeared in everything; blouses, sweaters, robes, t-shirts, and dresses. Exaggerated lapels and flared jackets were also stylish.

1980’s - the HAIR! • •

The bigger the better would explain the hair of this period. Hairspray and ratting were an everyday need to obtain the height of the time. Bangs were very popular and often lifted many inches above the scalp. Crimping hair was very popular as well.

2.1.11 1990’s – A-Line: • • • •

Like the sixties any length of skirt was in. Long flowing a-line skirts become fashionable again. The 90’s borrows fashions from the 60’s and 70’s especially. Platforms return! Bell-bottoms and flares are back!

90’s – Shoe Obsession: •

Shoes are bought for every purpose. The decade starts with a natural carefree Birkenstock and comfortable sport shoes and ends with platforms and Mary Janes.

90’s – Attack of the Cell Phone: •

Cell phones become very inexpensive and everyone starts to buy in. They are not only for communication but become an accessory and have their own accessories! Bags and purses are created to carry the new found necessity.

90’s – The Bare Midriff: • •

Shirts are cut short and the hip huggers of the sixties return. This time the hip huggers leave skin to be seen. The fifties are seen in the return of “clam diggers” now called capris.

10

2.1.12 2000’s: • • • •

With the decade just beginning it is difficult to predict exactly what will happen. One prediction is that black will remain to be seen! A “retro” look has begun mixing hits of the past and regurgitating them in styles for today. Trends show that we will most likely borrow several fads from the 80’s. Proof of this prediction is seen in large hoop earrings, the return of the more fitted leg, pleats, gathers and ruffles in shirts.

Chapter-3 3.1 Trend analysis: Trend analysis is based on the idea that what has happened in the past gives traders an idea of what will happen in the future. 11

A fashion consists of a current (constantly changing) trend, favored for frivolous rather than practical, logical, or intellectual reasons. It is a manner of showing how something is done or how it happens. It is a characteristic or a habitual practice. Fashion is a usage that is based on the newness of behavior. Fashion, at last, is "the make or form of something; an often personal manner or way; mode of action or operation; a prevailing custom, usage, or style; the prevailing style (as in dress) during a particular time; a garment in such a style; social standing or prominence esp. as signalized by dress or conduct". With the growth of urbanization and growth of population in India and the entire the world a desire to Everyone having their own way or own style to to attract others are adopting their own fashions. The fashion which once has gained popularity is followed by others by all other groups. The different perceptions of people in fashions are bringing a new trend apart from the old fashion and sometimes based on the situation. A lure to appear as a Icon of beauty the natural elements are modulated by the artificial elements that makes the actual look smarter.Also every woman nowadays uncomfortable which are old traditions are moving to comfortable dresses which includes mostly jeans and T shirts in cloth wear. This shift in trend due to various causes such as comfort and a smart look brought a trend all over the world. So going beyond accessories such as cosmetics, goggles, watches and mobiles etc.., are gaining more and more importance. The impact of films from bollywood & Hollywood and are showing impact in the fashion lifestyle of the present generation. And more even the lifestyle fashion treated as a status symbol. It is the augmentation in fashion trends in India that revolutionized the merchandising system in retail industry. Brands in apparel, textiles, jewelry, accessories, footwear, cosmetics and salons raised the business more than Rs 40,000 crore.

3.2 Fashion wear: Now day’s each and everyone more concentrate on the fashion wear’s. Because of the smart look .for this smart look, invest a more money on fashion wear. For this smart look, even average people looking for the branded items. And also the Indian consumers are facing considerable transformation. With an increase income levels and increasing attitude "LOOK GOOD - FEEL GOOD", fashion is offering huge potential to penetrate deeper into the untouched Indian markets. 12

The factors effecting the clothing:

Clothes separate people into groups. Fashion is revealing. Clothes reveal what groups people are in. In high school, groups have names: "goths, skaters, preps, herbs." Styles show who you are, but they also create stereotypes and distance between groups. For instance, a businessman might look at a boy with green hair and multiple piercings as a freak and outsider. But to another person, the boy is a strict conformist. He dresses a certain way to deliver the message of rebellion and separation, but within that group, the look is uniform. Acceptance or rejection of a style is a reaction to the society we live in. Fashion is a language which tells a story about the person who wears it. "Clothes create a wordless means of communication that we all understand," according to Katherine Hamnett, a top British fashion designer. Hamnett became popular when her tshirts with large messages like "Choose Life" were worn by several rock Trousers did not return to women's fashion for almost a century and when they did begin to appear in the 1930s it was mainly for practicality rather than any kind of political statement. Women were becoming increasingly active, taking part in sport and leisure activities which previously were the reserve of men.By taking part in these 13

activities and wearing clothes which, at the time, were still considered to be men's items, women were blurring accepted gender boundaries and by doing so they began the slow evolution of the androgynous. fashions we see today. Fast forward to the 1970's and a shocking new fashion trend was sweeping the nation. The punk look was deliberately designed to be as shockingand rebellious as possible. Offensive t-shirts featuring symbols and slogans selected deliberately for their shock value were commonplace, as were military style boots and very tight jeans or leather trousers. This non-conformist uniform was very similar for both male and female punks. The early designs of punk godmother - Vivienne Westwood clearly show the early androgyny of punk. Make-up was mainly still a feminine item, however, in punk culture it was used to match the groups aggressive, shocking aesthetic. This further separated punk women from conventional images of femininity. The appearance of fashions that created a androgynous "third sex" continued into the 1980s. New romantic and goth looks allowed the male use of make-up and feminine fabrics such as velvet and lace. It is arguable that these fashions were a direct response to the appearance of "power dressing." A fashion which extolled the virtues of expressing wealth through dress, men wore expensive, well cut suits with exaggerated shoulder-pads and women followed suit, adapting the style in a distinctly feminine way. By creating one unisex style that incorporated masculine and feminine elements, new romantic and goth created an easily identifiable sub-culture. The movements relied on their non gendered, unconventional style to be noticed. In modern times youth subculture has taken the manipulation of gender convention in fashion to a new level. Previously niche unisex fashions could be viewed as a reaction to the divide between masculinity and femininity in mainstream culture and fashion. In current popular fashion no such divide seems to exist, unisex fashion is on the catwalk, the street and niche cultures.

3.3 Gender in the blender - the new move to unisex fashion: By Georgina Safe March 19, 2008 06:45am

14

Androgynous evolution ... Patrick Wolf / supplied STOP acting your sex and pull out the guyliner; the androgynous look is back, writes Georgina Safe. "GIRLS who want boys, Who like boys to be girls, Who do boys like they're girls, Who do girls like they're boys." The lyrics to this ridiculously infectious Blur song have popped into my head often over the past few weeks. Everywhere I look androgynous is where it's at for girls and boys in fashion at the moment. Partly male, partly female, androgynous style is wholly indeterminate and wholly cool. Walk down Oxford Street in Sydney or Flinders Lane in Melbourne and you will be hard pressed to tell the stylish young men from the women. Guys in skinny jeans or leggings with women's T-shirts and tank tops, girls in men's blazers, shorts and waistcoats; its a unisex urban jungle out there right now. But please don't actually use the U word, it's so 1980s (remember the unitard?) and androgynous is so noughties. We saw it on the catwalks of Milan last month, when Miuccia Prada sent out men in skirts and Gucci's fey gypsy boys accessorised their voluminous velvet scarves and skinny pants with lashings of guyliner. In Paris too, YSL designer Stefano Pilati ditched his riotous ruffles to refocus on tailoring for women, as did Balenciaga's Nicholas Ghesquiere. "Austere" was the key word for Ghesquiere, who moved clothing away from the body, adding structure and stiffness and removing all vestiges of flimsy femininity in a slightly post-apocalyptic vision. Why is this hermaphrodite dressing happening? Why are words such as guyliner and manscaping creeping into the vernacular, and why are straight men proud to use them? Why are women donning oversized mens blazers in numbers not seen since the '80s, and how come Alexander Wang is one of the hottest designers in New York at the moment solely because he does the oversized mens blazer thing along with other masculine staples such as denim cut-offs and simple T-shirts?

15

To be honest, I have no real idea - only a few half-baked theories - as to why androgynous is so hot right now, but I know that it is. Ben Pollitt, the designer of Sydney menswear and womenswear label Friedrich Gray, is introducing a new Gray androgynous collection in response to overwhelming demand. "It comes from the reaction to my clothes, women wanting to buy and wear the mens and men buying and wearing the womens," says Pollitt. "To me it became clear that there doesn't need to be a specific sexuality to a particular item of clothing, if you can wear it so be it." His menswear silhouettes including tight, skinny legs, low crutch pants and long-length T-shirts and tanks work just as well on women by happenstance rather than design. "It's almost by chance that it fits women as well, I saw this happening and then just added and extended on the idea." Gray will appeal to women with attitude who prefer a sharp suit to a flimsy floral frock; the same personality type who began buying Hedi Slimane's super-slim menswear in his glory days at Dior Homme. "If it's a good product it doesn't matter who it's for, people buy into the ideals of the label," says Pollitt. With the addition of a killer heel or statement jewellery his garments, stocked at Fat and Alice Euphemia in Melbourne and Incu and the Corner Shop in Sydney, translate easily from masculine maverick to femme fatale. "My girlfriend wears it all without a qualm," says Pollitt. The handsome designer and his gorgeous partner may well be the poster boy and girl for androgynous dressing in Australia. Androgynous style is nothing new. From Annie Hall and David Bowie through to Marilyn Manson and Suede's Brett Anderson, creative types have long pushed the boundaries of personal identity through their clothing and makeup. The new crossdressers include the Lebanese-born boy songbird Mika, our own Cate Blanchett doing Dylan in I'm Not There and English ingenue and multi-instrumentalist Patrick Wolf, who models in the new Burberry advertising campaign. In an interview with a British newspaper last year, Wolf raised many questions about his sexuality: "In the same way I don't know if my sixth album is going to be a death-metal record or children's pop, I don't know whether I'm destined to live my life with a horse, a woman or a man. It makes life easier."

16

If there were any doubt as to his bisexuality, last year he also told the Sydney Star Observer: "My sexuality is kind of liberal. I fall in love with men and women. I like to have sex and fall in love. I don't like giving terminology for my sexuality." Nor do today's designers like pigeonholing their garments. "We've just launched a unisex capsule collection because we want it to appeal to both men and women," says Monika Tywanek, one half of Melbourne label TV. TV aren't afraid of the word unisex; when you spruik liquid gold unitards and spandex denim leggings how could you be? A gold paper-silk anorak, a pintucked pullover, a macrame singlet and that '80s staple, the unisex track pant, are among the garments comprising TV unisex. Tywanek says the line is partly being driven by young men's renewed focus on grooming, diet and body image. "It's a fashion trend for guys to be skinny," she says. You only have to look to the caved in chests and hunched shoulders at the recent Paris menswear shows to see super skinny is supposedly super sexy. Exit Gucci-era Tom Ford stage left, along with his '90s army of stubbled, tanned and perfectly pecced homo sapiens. David Beckham may ignited the flame of the contemporary metrosexual movement, but the torch has been passed to today's international fashion stylists, magazine editors and designers (most notably Slimane's Dior Homme replacement Kris van Assche) are using thinspiration to push it to new extremes. "But in Australia the mainstream labels still don't really design for tall, slim boys," says Tywanek. "Male friends of ours were always saying we can't find anything suitable so we saw a niche gap in the market for slim-line androgynous wear."

Alex Cleary, who has many male customers for the women's wear he designs at Melbourne label Alpha60 with his sister Georgie (they also do men's), says some young men are breaking new boundaries with the look. "It's now progressed to the point where boys are rocking leggings not just under things but solo, maybe just with a short girl's T-shirt, and that's pretty out there."

17

He pauses. "I wouldn't be doing it, to tell you the truth." The concept of androgynous dressing is an old one, but this generation lacks the political circumstances that have driven fashion to masculine and feminine extremes in the past. Ditching corsets in the '20s, the sexual revolution and "mod" of the '60s and flower power of the '70s, not to mention the hyper-masculine power suit of the '80s, are among the instances of fashion following a substantive socio-political shift. But this generation is harder to pin down when it comes to political expression and extremes. Could it be that androgynous dressing this time around provides us young people with an individualistic mode of expression to keep pushing the envelope on gender without being chained to society's limiting definitions? But that all sounds a bit heavy. At a more base level perhaps it's just girls playing dress-ups and boys being boys. To state it simply, androgyny pulls the chicks. It's now the girl boys who get the groovy girls, according to Karen Rieschieck, who owns the Melbourne unisex boutique Alice Euphemia. "It's a look that a lot of girls appreciate," says Rieschieck. "That is the vibe from the frontline." Then there's the way guys shop, which is about as down to earth as it gets and shows no signs of changing anytime soon. "We are getting a lots of young guys coming in shopping in groups now," says Rieschieck. "Last Saturday morning we had a posse of 18-year-old boys in the store. They were all goofing around and voicing opinions like 'nah, dude'. It was really sweet." This website may contain information about financial products. the issuer of each product will be indicated where applicable. a product disclosure statement and/or financial services guide can be obtained by contacting the issuer. advice given on this site is general advice and does not take into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. please consider whether the advice is appropriate for you before acting. Unisex fashions, as well as masculine fashions for women and effeminate fashions for men seem somewhat likely to come from homosexual designers who wish women to be less attractive to men and for gender identity to be blurred. The most repulsive of today's 'fashionable' are ear-rings (and pony tails) for men and body tattoos and various mutilations with their accompanying rings and things, for both men and women. I have never found belly buttons to be an attractive feature of the human body but try telling that to hordes of teenage girls. I recall one woman complained, however, that she could not find any tops in the teen stores that had a covered midriff.

3.4 Footwear fashion Life Style:18

Footwear is a necessity to every person and at the same time is now a lifestyle as also a performance enhancement product; and is thus a segment with vast potential. The Indian footwear market is estimated to be worth Rs.13,750 Crore and constitutes just about one percent of Indian retail. About 37.8 percent of Footwear retail is in the organized segment, which qualifies it as the second most organized retail category in India, next only to Watches. Men's footwear comprises the largest share of the organized market accounting for about 52 percent in value terms. As footwear retailing in India has remained focused on men’s shoes, there exists a whale of opportunity in the exclusive ladies and kid’s footwear segment. This is especially surprising as women globally in line with global trends are the key decision makers for buying footwear. The ladies footwear segment still remains the most untapped as nearly 80-90 percent purchases happen in the unorganized market largely due to the dressing habits of women for whom consideration of durability or comfort are less important than colours and designs that go with dress.

Volume Share in Footwear With the Indian woman becoming more brand-conscious as opposed to the past state of being product-conscious, more and more internationally renowned players are expected to enter the Indian market to fill this need-gap.

Volume Share of Products Segments in Footwear

19

The children's and kids' segment also accounts for a significant share due to the increased emphasis on sporty looks. Given India’s very young population, the market for children’s footwear is also attractive for new organized players to enter and earn supernormal profits.

The footwear market today is showing a trend where more and more competitors within the segment are coming together and forming alliances through cross-promotions and tieups benefits for enhanced reach and offering the consumer access to a wider range of products and brands. The London-based Carlton group became the first overseas player to enter the Indian women’s footwear market when it set up its first store at the MGF Metropolitan Mall in Gurgaon recently. Growth of Indian Footwear Retail 20

( Value Rs. Crore at 2003-04 Prices )

The entry of specialty sportswear retailers such as Royal Sporting House, Sports Station and Planet Sports providing the best shopping experience for customers and a platform to showcase the world’s top sports and active lifestyle brands has transformed the organized retailing scenario in the country. Royal Sporting House has over 40 stores in India, many of which are placed in prime locations within shopping malls. It is the exclusive distributor of brands such as Mizuno, Caterpillar, TYR, Dunlop Sports and non-exclusive ones such as Reebok, Adidas, Nike and Skechers. Planet Sports, with 20 outlets in the country, is the licensee in India for leading sports brands such as Puma, Speedo, Converse and Wilson, among others. The sportswear market is the only sector in India that has the presence of all three top international brands. The year 1996 witnessed the entry of Nike, Reebok and Adidas that gave a new dimension to footwear and fashion retailing in the country. Playful promotion campaigns, world class merchandising and the internationally styled stores enthused consumers to go for an extra pair of shoes and a couple of extra Tee Shirts and add a little bit of sporty images to their lifestyle. In the face of increasing competition from leading multinational players, domestic footwear retailers have also woken up to the opportunity that the segment beckons and are realizing that exposure to shopping standards abroad have made Indian consumers demand the same formats and experience here. Responding to this challenge, major domestic players like Bata and Liberty have significantly transformed their retail formats to become more lifestyle- oriented and are positioning themselves as vibrant and contemporary Indian brands. In recent years the market has seen entry of a host of new domestic and foreign brands like Drish, Lotto, Lotus Bawa, Now, Oakridge, Royal Elastic, Sketchers, Teenage, Teva, Timberland and Vans. Fashionable brands like Stryde and Red Tape and MNC brands like Allen Cooper, Franco Leone, Gaitonde, Gucci, Guess, Lee Cooper, are further developing the market by creating new segments. 3.4.1 Brand name shoes

21

We all have a penchant for something like a status symbol that no one else has. An exclusive brand not available or a design not found in all parts of the world. Shoes, mobiles, designer clothes, music systems, cars are all center of attraction when they carry a brand name. So of course, when one talks of brand name shoes it should be justified with a sleek pair. People buy them for various reasons- a memorable occasion, professional reason, to make a very good impression. What ever may be the reason brand name shoes will create a flutter in social circles. Keep in mind if you are hunting for that ‘elusive’ brand name shoe they will be expensive. If that is going to knock off the monthly budget, make up your mind well. The occasion better be worth it- like your own marriage, 21st or 50th birthday etc. If you are a professional and being dressed for the job is a part of it then invest in a brand that will help you to stand out in the crowd. Professions like hospitality industry, modelling, fashion designers, and public relations need impressive persona to attract clientele. Good shoesdo give the right impression to the party concerned. 3.4.2 Casual shoes The very fact that they are called casual shoes it means they can be used informally. For everyday wear one needs comfortable and cool footwear. Today the concept of casual shoes has changed. It is no longer seen as rubber chappels with two blue straps. Even ordinary shoe shops have designs that are appealing and can be used safely even during monsoons. Different colors have made casual shoes more attractive. Fashion for casual shoes is ever changing and evolving all over the world. One can flaunt one’s personality with a great pair of cool shoes to increase the personal style quotient. Casual shoes may not have much on design, as they tend to be of strong leather, may be broad. They may cover all toes or expose all of them. Unless you have really ugly and unattractive feet closed casuals are good. Sometimes causal shoes will have rubber outsoles and heal may be of a standard size. So the fit may ease up after constant wear. High priced casual shoes tend to last a little longer unless they are abused everyday and roughed up (examples of use in construction sites, walking on uneven surfaces etc). At one time women were expected to wear uncomfortable shoes when going out simply for a movie or a date. Today, women have a choice of wearing comfortable semi formal casual shoes. This allows one to have more comfort on the feet. Few women are ready to up their style quotient wearing shoes that may look a million dollars but make them suffer. All casuals need not be ugly. Almost anywhere in the world it is overcool for a woman of any age to wear jeans, a sexy top and sneakers to a movie with friends or casually entertain guests in restaurants wearing casual clothes and shoes.

22

Sneakers may not be feminine and may not be the ultimate choice for many women but they are really comfortable. Casual footwear today has a little heel for the fashion conscious female. So no eyebrows are raised at breakfast or brunches when women turn up wearing culottes, top, and fancy flower shaped designed casual shoes. The right kind of causal shoes will not make one feel sloppy or unfashionable. It is more important now to keep feet comfortable as long time footwear can affect them badly. Casual shoes rarely affect the physicality or ruin feet on a long-term basis. Countries like India and China are producing mass based cheap casual shoes which are also comfort to work and walk in any conditions anywhere in the world. 3.4.3 Women shoes There are two main reasons why womens’ shoes get noticed. One is when they are beautiful and make the perfect style statement and the other is when it has a diametrically opposite effect on people around. And we are not only talking of ones that are worn on the ramp but also in everyday life. Following shoes trends is okay for the fashion conscious. But for the rest of humanity having something to cover the feet is just the reason why they were invented or rather are being manufactured even today! Women have choices right from bathroom slippers to ballroom heels. Between them are designer pairs; sneakers, formals, classics and they are available in wide variety of colors, shapes designs and sizes. Women's shoes are different for those who have poor feet condition. Some women have cracked heals and certainly it is a big no, no to wear open, bare sandals or stilettos with straps without a pedicure. Here is no point in getting a beautiful pair only to get others to hinge their attention to bad feet. During winter dryness and chapped nails are common. Wearing warm closed shoes that let the feet breathe are ideal. Sometimes new shoes give sore bites or even corns, which can be quite uncomfortable. 3.4.4 Mens shoes As men's fashion has evolved, so has their sense of power dressing. Today’s man is conscious to the extent that he will make sure to follow trends and turn up at an event as the hottest dude mankind has ever seen. Men shop on their own for clothes and shoes without any embarrassment. They can also bargain and check out for hours in shopping malls the best of brands. The influence of movies, television stars and models cannot be ruled out as tastes have changed. So have their shoe sense. Men will find as much variety to choose from like women. But unlike women they have clear-cut idea of what they wanttobuy. Men's shoes are available almost everywhere on roadside stalls, branded stores and shopping malls. Whatever the occasion demands shoes for all seasons are on display.

23

Basically any man should have a few shoes in his wardrobe, which can be worn if there is no time to pick up a new pair. Here’s what a well dressed male will have: a good pair of black shoes with laces, a neat pair of loafers/ sandals, and if he fancies wearing Indian outfits he would definitely need some crossed sandals or juthis which would go with the outfit. Smart pair of sneakers also is ideal to have for casual wear. Men fall in 2 categories- the suave business types (professionals included) and the causal younger lot whose style statement is more or less complete with a pair of blue jeans or stone washed jeans and a pair of keds. There are events that force them to dress up and shoes and socks are an integral part. Most shoes go well with the same colored socks. Suede and leather are ideal materials for mens shoes and most men feel comfortable in them for hours. Since men have large, feet are careful of wearing any thing that will expose the feet. Clean feet will be admired and an occasional pedicure will work wonders. A pedicure is good before an important event. Men have to be careful while selecting shoes as long term wear makes the feet and shoes smelly. Branded shoe stores and designers have perfected the shoe patterns and they allow men to put up their legs with shoes on in style. 3.4.5 Athletic Shoes: In this era of fitness when everyone is running, gyming, doing aerobics, yoga and all exercises to keep fit it is unimaginable for anyone not to have at least one pair of athletic shoes. Right from youngsters to old people, men and women all have some type of running shoes to keep fit. It is no longer cool to run bare feet and get sprains and injuries while exercising or doing aerobics. About a couple of years ago only professional athletes used to have jogging shoes but today even the common people all over the world are buying from exclusive sports shoes manufacturers. As fitness awareness has increased in most places athletic shoes have become necessary in everyone’s shoe wardrobe. Any shoes that are required for running or jogging professional or practice are referred as athletic shoes. Since they are designed to run, they are usually made of flexible matter like canvas, rubber with flexible soles. Over a period of decades, there have been many changes in these shoes. Since there is pressure on the feet and there is risk of injury, heel or muscle pain the designs have been modified. They are now designed to absorb pressures of running long distances or working out for long. . There are various sports shoes companies, which specialize, in various types of athletic shoes. Some of the shoes have spikes for making the athlete run better by having a good grip on the ground. Those who do not run professionally and wear sports shoes for workout wear sneakers. This is a variant of the athletic variety but is stylized or designed. Nevertheless, it does serve its basic function of supporting the feet during training or workouts. These shoes are normally worn for outdoor activity. Sailors who needed shoes, which would not hamper their deck activity and not are worn out, if used in water, used the earliest sneakers. After use, they could be dried and reused. This was in the 18th century. Since then, these shoes have serviced many feet, which have broken

24

records in sporting events. 3.5 ACCESSORIES: 3.5.1 Latest Accessory Trends for Spring Summer 2008 'It Bag Brand' or 'It Factors' The swiftest way to update your fashion wardrobe is to splash out on the latest 'it' handbag. In the past season, several 'it factors' have emerged rather than an 'it bag brand' of note. Last year, the luxury super-soft treated skins used for the Zagliani bags got a great deal of press coverage for their innovative fashionable bags. In 2007 these bags were shown mostly with a hefty £1500 price tag. The Zagliani story was such a success, that matchesfashion.com now sell Zagliani handbags from £550 for a small trendy clutch to £6785 for a large puffy croc bag. This year, no material or construction such Bottega Veneta's intrecciato woven leather technique has so far stood out enough, to be a must-have bag. Already high end mass producers are using a similar technique. However, both croc and ostrich textures have proved popular for the fashion designs coming from the high end retailers.

25

This lovely trio of bags by Osprey is their A va style. Ava is made from polished croc embossed leather, with silver lock and key. The Ava bag size is perfect - not too big and not too small. Never mind the fashion trends, like all 'good' quality bags, it has a studded base. These bags also pay attention to our need for pockets. There is one convenient outside pocket, which would be perfect for keys, small change or a mobile phone as well as two inside pockets. But for me, the most appealing 'it factor' is the adjustable underarm shoulder strap, so that the bag can be tailored to sit well on the individual shoulder. In spring 2008 it's not just metallics, crocodile, lizard, snake skin or other animal style materials that are available. Bags are made from a wide range of abstract and floral prints, tribal dyed textiles, wood, raffia and bead encrustation. Shiny patent leather is also a look that glistens. Hot Bag Tips For all styles, we can see texture and pattern in bag materials. Smaller bags have returned - especially as clutch bag accessories, often with a wristlet loop. The colour for bags is bold and bright as well as soft and pretty. Every colour is available. Texture in Handbags for 2008 For 2008 bags, there is a definite trend to play with colour, novel texture and fabric. Coarse woven linen looks, crochet materials, gem or pearl studding, busy printed fabrics and tie dye effects all feature on bags. You can also see the exact same effects on the must-have platform sole or wedge shoe.

Both bags and shoes show a trend to set one texture against another. For example, rich suede with both matte leather and shiny patent in one solid colour and with even more contrast from textured gold chunky chains or tortoiseshell handles. Patchwork effects are a growing fad in bags and footwear.

26

Bead and faux gems, or pearls in particular feature both on knitwear and bags.

3.5.2 THE CLUTCH BAG

Invest now in the clutch bag. This is the most fashionable 'new' bag trend for Spring and Summer 2008. Although an oft revived style, its now showing many innovative quirks that make it look like a fresh trend. You may see loads of larger tote like bags in the stores, but I feel that although we all need a big bag in many situations, big bags are now at mass saturation point. A smaller bag, especially if it is an investment purchase like this Osprey clutch, is a bag trend on the up. 3.5.3 Colour in Bags There have not been so many different coloured bags to be bought since the fashion trends of the 1980s era. Just a decade or so ago in the nineties, bag colours had become limited to neutrals of black, brown, tan, beige and navy. But now along with bold colour, there is also pattern and contrast piping. Some colour is stylish, some simply garish, but there is choice; you are no longer limited to black, navy, tan or taupe. Thank goodness. Right - Frivolous, red soft washed leather DIOR gipsy ruffles bag with zip closure at £895. Available at Dior online.

3.5.4 Large Versus Small Bags For the spring and summer of 2008, both the designers and the high street stores have provided superb choice, and as a result you can choose from a huge range of smaller hand bags and clutch bags. The shops are also stocked with lots of larger tote bags. All these 27

oversized bags we have become so used to carrying happily sit beside the newer smaller bags. Ahhhh - choice - wonderful.

The clutch bag accessory of course comes in any size, and thus is a great way to work toward downsizing your bags. You easily remove the small clutch (much like a money purse wallet) from a larger tote bag, and this is great way to ease yourself into using smaller handbags. Or try a crafted bag like this novel Eire design from jamescyn.com. It has a vintage expanding circular metal closure and bracelet handle. It's simply magical for a special occasion. Above Left - Jamescyn Eire bag in green velvet, lined in golden silk and with a secret pocket. Exquisite - I love it. But for some the Eire bag may be too small. Many will find it hard to forego all the excess personal trappings they are used to toting around. Yes shops have hundreds of oversized bags in stock, but they are not the hot fashion of a few seasons ago. Use your oversized bags more as small luggage bags, or as overnight vanity cases. If you need a larger handbag, especially for work and travel, consider if your existing tote bag has the 'it factors' of the moment. Three looks stand out - dome, puffy and doctor bags. The black doctor bag right, which looks like a great all purpose bag, is from the Jane Shilton range. You are reading an original independent fashion article on clutch bag accessories by Pauline Weston Thomas at www.fashion-era.com © 3.5.5 Pyramid Dome Handbag Shapes If you are not yet ready to abandon your larger bag then try to select a frame bag which is neat and shapely, rather than loose and undisciplined. Left - J by Jasper Conran Clutch Frame Bag Debenhams Spring/Summer 2008 - Women's Accessories £25/€39. For summer 2008 add a neat, pyramid dome style bag to your collection. The small bag left is the newest take on the pyramid silhouette. Note the mixed textures of the chain handle. On the right the pyramid bag in soft pink has the popular shoulder strap and short handles option. River Island Clothing Co. Ltd Womenswear Accessories SS08 - Pink Bag. 28

The bags below are much larger scale wise, but note the similarity of bag silhouette.

Dome Bags

The pyramid dome bag follows the style of the YSL muse bag and is similar to these high street bags. You may recall I looked at the rise of this 'it bag' shape back in 2006. Left - Grey croc embossed handbag by Vivienne Westwood for House of Note also that the majority of these tote bags are true handbags rather than underarm bags. Of course there are still plenty of underarm bags on offer.

29

This silver bag left has many fashionable elements, and can be found in the Novak by Alexander McQueen. This silver bag is from Debenhams Spring/Summer 2008 Women's Accessories range of Red Herring bags and is inexpensive. When shopping in a crowded city, an underarm bag firmly closed and tucked between arm and body, seems more under personal control than a loose long handle shoulder bag, that floats about more freely.These are all attractive, well-shaped bags for this season. Puffy Bags Puffy bags follow a similar line to these dome bags above and the similarity in proportion is important.

3.6 Belts and Shoes Fashion Accessories Trends 2007: The Perfect Accessory

The perfect fashion accessory is the one that suits you, and lifts your everyday outfit into the realms of making it so special, that compliments roll fast and furious.

30

The perfect fashion accessory is bound to set off any outfit and the very best thing about accessories is that slimming is never involved! Fat or thin, there are plenty of accessories to suit all sizes. Left - This Plumo Vintage style belt in chestnut brown leather is available in two sizes a Its Swarovski crystal set buckle, is encrusted with ivory fashion pearls and sparkling pink Swarovski crystals. These belts shown right are also by Plumo,a Shopping Mall and are the perfect item to dress up a favourite black dress or trousers. Price N/K. The crystal bow is a hot fashion symbol this autumn especially in jewellery items such as earrings or pendants.

3.6.1 Belts Belts had a revival with the gypsy Boho look when the belts were slung low on the hip. Belts are now back on the waistline, and these belts here, feature a mixed selection of buckles and clasps. Many more varieties than we saw during the Eclectic Ethnic Era. The Plumo crystal buckles above offer a feminine daintiness that some of the heavier buckles can never achieve.

In addition to leather and manmade material belts, look out for chain lariat style belts. This sumptuous gold chain link lariat belt with purple crystal medallion,

covers several trends in one item. The fashion accessory items in the image left are all from a selection at

31

Debenhams Accessories. The photograph should remind you that purple is the 'it' of colour of autumn. Jewellery chain belts and bejewelled minaudière are also the alternative to wearing standard jewellery. The gem studded cuff in the upper section of the image, looks like a splendid fashion buy, for that all important pop of autumn 2007 purple. Left - This is another bangle cuff from Debenhams with a purple jolt of colour. It's a simple, but modern inexpensive accessory that will help update your look.. Wallis have many various belts that have a bold space age look. The second elastic black belt below has a lovely central disc clasp buckle fastening that might have been seen in a Sci-Fi film. Warrior woman is at large in a city near you. Right - Wallis black elastic clasp disc belt, price £15/€23.

Hardware first moved off belts onto fashion handbags, but now the studs are once again richly decorating belts. These two belts left have a mixture of stud sizes and are from the House of Fraser 'UNTOLD' range. House of Fraser black and brown belts with antique brass roller buckle, price £25 each. In keeping with the flurry of metallic bags there are many golden and silver belts on offer in all the high street stores. The gold House of Fraser 'Linea' belt below, also pays omage. to stud style. Linea multi chain link and gold mesh belt £29.

32

These three high fashion belts, to the left and right, are all from Dorothy Perkins. Two follow the double buckle style.

Dorothy Perkins - Tan double buckle belt

3.7 Footwear Shoe Boots, Coloured Shoes and Mary Janes If you have no waistline for a belt, consider instead purple boots. These £90 purple suede fashion boots right, are from the Georgina Goodman range for Evans. They are bound to be wide enough for those with larger calves since the boot has an elastic panel. With a pointed toe, suede upper and lining they are also available in black. Purple - great colour. See how it extends to flats and even shoe boot linings. Above right - Dune Passby shoe boot £110. Left - French Connection purple patent flat pumps £70. Other popular shoe tones this season include green, a colour which will take us into spring. These patent green wedge shoes are from Shelly. Black, purple and forest green are all must-have choices for Christmas. The selection of Mary Jane shoes below are from Dune.

33

Note the patent wet look, and the colourations. The double bar strap is a feature of the latest Mary Jane shoe styles. This bar strap feature has also crossed over into ballet flats and even slippers. If metallic is on your mind then what better choice than this warm gold shoe boot also from Dune.

3.8 Hosiery Hosiery is very much at the fore of fashion this autumn Winter 2007/8. Some styles of clothing only gel when worn with coloured or patterned tights and wildly contrasting footwear. Coloured shoes can be worn with thick or opaque black tights, coloured tights, animal print tights or lace hosiery.

3.9 Gloves Gloves have trend ever quarter and started outdoor

been a growing since three elbow sleeves appearing on winter wear.

For a super deluxe evening think gold or metallic gloves like these shown left and from Plumo. Gloves of all types especially elbow length gloves or ditsy short gloves set the tone of your outfit. Right - Wallis long grey ruched leather gloves, £22, €36, long teal button detail gloves, £18, €30. Left studded gloves from Marks and Spencers.

3.10 Headwear Everyday headwear is has made a comeback especially with younger people. Hats can vary from knit beanies to fur or feather inspired pieces zany enough to revive as cocktail hats. But the Fedora is the most important hat revival style. Far right - Purple velvet trilby from French Connection is priced at £30.

34

3.10.1 Hair Ornaments In the past 5 years, we have rediscovered terms like barrette, a hair accessory name that almost went out of use. Beautiful hairclips, bobby pins, barrette slides, hairclips and grips can all be jewel decorated to add a glamorous touch to any hairstyle. Left - Plumo hair combs with crystals. In particular hair ornaments are very fashionable both day and evening. Many hair accessories will suit current French pleats and other updo hairstyles. Other hairstyles to consider are classic bobs and also the Victoria asymmetric bob. As the season becomes more festive expect hair ornaments to go wild. Hair decoration began to happen again when women started to wear flowers and fascinator hat pieces in their hair. These small, but festive hair accessories have become perfect for adding a partied-up touch for weddings and other social occasions, especially when the protocol for wearing headwear is optional. Evening wedding receptions have created a great deal of difficulty for women who ponder the need for wearing a hat for 'special occasion' dressing.

Now all sorts of new creative accessories are being used to decorate the hair. These little works of art certainly make a welcome change from those straight hair extensions of yesterday. Bridal wear has already been the prime place for tiara wear and Pearls Plus make them to order. Right - Other items Pearls Plus make for the hair include these coloured freshwater pearl pieces. The coloured pearls and dainty Swarovski crystals catch the light and reflect lovely colours that match your dress.

35

Decorative brow headbands and forehead drops and lariats are an accessory area about to see more demand within the jewellery marketplace. Some of the decorative pieces seen on hair accessories this season are just as likely to be adorning belts.

3.11 Jewellery The jewellery market and online gem market is booming and now many stores place their fashion costume jewellery at the front of the store. the choice of fashion and fine jewellery is enormous.

3.12 Seductive make-up trends for 2008 Looking for makeup lessons in the art of seduction? The faces on the New York runways for Fall 08 had it all- a bit of shimmer and an overall embrace of rich. Read on to get the latest in international make up trends

l. Skin, pumped with health and borderline sweaty (in an up-all-night kinda way) was done to perfection at Threeasfour and Nanette Lepore. And yes, lips red-dy for kissing or bitten-stained into kissed-off rouge was pretty much the definitive trend of the age. Last season’s graphic accents, phosphorescently fake colors and matte textures took a sideline, replaced by super blended, naturally inspired pigments (desert golds, wine reds, midnight blues, and leaf greens). A refound love of gloss texture for laminating lids and cheeks looks all set to sit yet another season out. The statements to remember? Layers of pigments, an attitude radiating sultry sophistication, play of textures, a little bit of shimmer and an overall embrace of rich, wintery tones notwithstanding, are what look to be setting the pace into Fall 08. Monique Lhuillier: Midnight Girl

36

Tempered though deep, dark and decadent…the midnight melding of ink blue, royal purple and dark burgundy on the eyes at Monique Lhuillier created a marbled intensity that was “strong yet poetic”, explained makeup artist, . The vision that was every bit languorous yet marbled and soft was created with a blend – burgundy Night Moth Eye Pencil beneath the lower lashes and Indigo Eye Pencil on the inner and outer edges of the socket were smudged out with a 213 Brush before a rich creamy patina of Cream Colour Base in Deep Violet and Deep Purple Hollywood Shadow were washed over the top, to create lids that were deeply dimensional and dramatically moulded. The indulgence wasn’t limited to the eyes however, staining up lips in Night Moth and Deep Wine lipsticks followed. Skin that’s real (yet not too real) calls for a powdering of almost imperceptibly light proportions. Enter M∙A∙C’s soon to be released Prep+Prime Instant Line Filler, Gossamer Light that kicks out shine but keeps up on transparency. For skin that’s an (even more) perfected version of what the girls were born with, it’s a musthave. What went missing quite conspicuously at N.Y. was lavish mascara. For every curtain of mascara on show there were lids that were blank and bald. You couldn’t miss the new Dazzlelash though. No, it’s not sparkly but has a magical wand for sure. Springloaded so it grabs to the roots of each and every lash.

Medley of textures

It didn’t stop at the lips, either. Eyes were also picked out in red and pink tones – the burgundy fine shimmer at Baby Phat and Bill Blass, cocktail-elegant lids at Nicole Miller in Bordeaux layered with a khaki gold glimmer, a fuzz of fuchsia at Behnaz and a haze of prune shadow around the eyes at Vivienne Tam. Over at Costello Taliapietra Kabuki created a haunted romantic and painterly feeling with a touch of Burgundy Paintstick layered under taupe. Texture gave a key twist – along with fore mentioned shimmers, there was a plastic-coated berry lip gloss, a pearly pink sugar coating and a wash of Bordeaux in the crease. Sunset of burgundy

37

An air of elegance proved that it’s not mutually exclusive to colourful eye makeup, as artists captured high pigments in visions that were altogether as sophisticated as they were surprisingly chromatic. At Threeasfour, Gordon Espinet elevated “radiant” makeup with a more radical lash, pulled out in an Yves Klein blue. Eyes were also big and blue for a few people. One well known person went with “organic yet graphic,” topped with a sweep of green eye shadow. 3.13 MOBILE FASHION STYLE: It is 90s where India has just entered the queue to form a tangible position with the emerging market where growth is seen in only in some places of our market. With its slow pace and expensive mobiles and also the existence of less percenr of rich of people there is trend in mobile fashion has not shown its face. The first part of mobile lifestyle was took place in early of 21st century that waved the world a style bringing a trend and giving birth to a new of fashion signified as Mobile Fashion style . Mobile Life style has took its place that it forecasted the results higher than the results of the expectations. Now the world is a following this fashion with great comfort feeling it as a prestige.Every youth now a days possess a mobile in or his own pocket. To those who maintain a mohile phone mobile is not for communication but a sign that the person feels to show his/her fashion. Life made simple doesn’t relate her but it is a costly There are no of brands in mobile communication which are enriching the technologies as well as adding features to the mobile phones which adds a crown into the lifestyle of a man.

3.14 Smoking: India is a respectable country with its great culture and civilization. But now all Indians should think before, to say this with their great pride. In olden days in Indian culture women are very obedient and were far from smoking. 38

But the people run behind modern life, has changed their desires and their habits. One among them is Women’s smoking. Today’s metropolitan India cities go widely behind the western styles. Guys and gals are becoming fond of western life styles with these environmental changes. People don’t have even time to think about the good and bad of western culture, but they just try copying them. This is simply their servile mentality. Despite of all these - Women are least bothered about the illeffects of smoking. Women are more susceptible to smoking as they may feel it as trend. Western skirts became the symbols of accepting their culture replacing our saris’.Like this habit of smoking is also became a pitch to them. Modern life styles adnd trend passions are simply ruing the Educated people also. Whenever if somebody saw a female smoker in restaurant, office lobby, or somewhere on the roads one should easily get a feeling about them as “loose woman”. Still woman are least bothered to ruin our culture. This kind of culture is growing rapidly only in developing courtiers like our India. 3.14.1 Statistics and problems to Female Smokers: According to Statistics the 1/3 of women population in india are smokers and most of them are educated. If this trend continues; by 2025 there will be equal or more number of women smokers than men.

39

When we ask a simple question to Edcuated people who smokes - “Why do u smoke ?” their answers and reasons are pretty simple and silly. Look at their answers: "I smoke in order to keep from slowing down." "Handling a cigarette is part of the enjoyment of smoking it." "I light up when I feel angry about something." "I smoke without being aware that I'm smoking." "I smoke to perk myself." "I get a great pleasure out of smoking." "I'm very aware of when I'm not smoking." "I like watching the smoke when I exhale." "I want a cigarette the most when I feel relaxed." "I get a gnawing hunger for a cigarette if I haven't smoked in a while." "I find a cigarette in my mouth I don't even remember putting there." This is really awakening time for women smokers ...please do understand the importance of our culture...

Chapter-4 4.1 Forecasting:

40

Forecasting is a process to estimate the what type’s of outcomes are coming in future. But, it is not easy to forecast the lifestyle fashion. Because, “Fashion is always changing, slightly elusive and extremely seductive”. But, we have to say some thing. Forecast # 1: In fine, over the next generation, our clothes will be • • • • • • • • •

More comfortable Better fitting More durable Easier to clean or discard They will also guard our health and safety Respond to the environment Improve our work and recreation And communicate with people And things automatically or at the wearer’s discretion

Forecast #2: Fashion will go wired as technologies and tastes converge to revolutionize the fashion industry. • • • •

Researchers in smart fabrics and intelligent textiles (SFIT) are working with the fashion industry to bring us color-changing or perfume-emitting jeans, Wristwatches that work as digital wallets, And running shoes like the Nike +iPod that watch where you’re going (possibly allowing others to do the same). Powering these gizmos remains a key obstacle.

But industry watchers estimate that a $400 million market for SFIT is already in place and predict that smart fabrics could revitalize the U.S. and European textile industry.

4.2 Women smoking forecast: According to Statistics the 1/3 of women population in india are smokers and most of them are educated. If this trend continues; by 2025 there will be equal or more number of women smokers than men.

41

4.3 Mobile forecasting: Mobile which is a consumer good in this world sees a rapid growth mainly in countries like India and China where most of the people are using it not as a medium for communication but as a lifestyle fashion. The trend to move for high ended mobile phones(3G Technology in India) will see its full phase though operated in some parts of India.

Chapter-5 5.1 Survey report: 1. What is your view about fashion.?

42

• •

There's never a new fashion but it's old. Fashion is an emerging trend and there is no age factor for it.

2. Which type of lifestyle do you like?

3. How much time do you spend for choosing your fashion wear?

4. WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO WEAR TO:

Movies

Jeans 64%

Casual Slacks 31%

43

Sweats 5%

Supermarket Mall At home

65% 61% 27%

16% 29% 8%

5.What type of brands do you like? All comfortable popular brands.

6. How much would you spend on fashion wear?

7. Which type of clothes do you like mostly?

44

19% 8% 64%

8. Which type of hairstyle do you like?

45

9. Do you like to have hair colors on your hair?

46

10.How much do you spend on hairstyle?

47

11.Do you prefer beauty or comfort?

12. Is it difficult to attract people without smart look?

13.Which type of footwear do you prefer?

48

14.Which type of sandal do you like?

49

15. How much would you spend on footwear?

16.which type of brands do you like in footwear? Reebok, Nike, fila, bata, woodland.

17. How much would u spend on accessories?

50

18.How much would you spend on cosmetics items?

19. Is following fashion is fancy or not?

51

20. As you know mobiles is also a fashion today so how you do spend on it?

21.How much would you spend on lifestyle fashion?

52

6.Conclusion: The only thing which doesn’t change in the fashion world is CHANGE, even the same things can repeat after a few decades with 53

few add-ons. We have to believe that change is for good. This is for our own comfort and happiness. We also have some negative aspects of this also but they are of not that important, because every thing has both positive and negative aspects.

7

BIBILOGRAPHY: http://www.dolcegabbana.it/ http://www.fashion.net/ http://www.gucci.com/ http://www.kenzo.com/ http://www.chloe.com/ http://www.chanel.com/ http://www.pbs.org/ http://www.putnam.kl2.il.us/ http://www.versace.com/ http://www.fashion-era.com http://fashionsnapshot.com http://fashionworld.com http://fibre2fashion.com http://idios.com http://www.googlesearch.com http://www.googlebooks.com –“Fashion HandBook” “Contemporary issues of Fashion” From Wikipedia, Free encyclopedia -“History of Fashion Design” From Krishna’s page - “Gutsy Indian Women smoking”

54