Performance Apparel Markets Business and market analysis of worldwide trends in high performance activewear and corporat
Views 32 Downloads 1 File size 2MB
Performance Apparel Markets Business and market analysis of worldwide trends in high performance activewear and corporate apparel
No 46 3rd quarter 2013
Inside this issue: • Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries • Product developments and innovations • Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is driving innovation • Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand • Business update: acquisitions, divestments and mergers; company strategy; corporate social responsibility (CSR); financial results; investments; joint ventures, cooperation, licensing and distribution; new brands; new stores • Glossary: terms and definitions
Performance Apparel Markets ISSN 1477-6456
No 46 3rd quarter 2013 Contents 4 4 4 6 7 8 10 12 12 12 13 15 16 17 19 21 23 23 23 24 26 27 29 32 36 38 39 60 61 61 61 62 63 64 68 68 72 74
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries Introduction MIPS AB: Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS) Phillips Helmets: Phillips Head Protection System (PHPS) Lazer: SuperSkin, Pure Carbon and Pure Glass Reebok and MC10: CheckLight Adidas and Ayrtek: AdiPower Product developments and innovations Summary Fabrics for protective apparel Fabric treatments Fibres and yarns for performance apparel New materials for sports equipment Performance apparel for water sports Smart clothing Sportswear Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is driving innovation Summary Introduction Development of waterproof breathable constructions The market for waterproof breathable fabrics Waterproof breathability in performance apparel Testing standards for waterproofness, water repellency and breathability Ways of achieving waterproof breathability in apparel Waterproof breathable garments Applications of waterproof breathable materials Innovations in waterproof breathable materials Outlook Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand Summary Introduction Company development Products and applications Product innovations Product sourcing Distribution, sales and marketing Corporate social responsibility (CSR) Outlook
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
1
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
75 75 75 77 77 79 88 88 92 93 96 107
Contents
Business update Summary Acquisitions, divestments and mergers Company strategy Corporate social responsibility (CSR) Financial results Investments Joint ventures, cooperation, licensing and distribution New brands New stores Glossary: terms and definitions Index to Performance Apparel Markets
Planned for forthcoming issues... Antimicrobial fibres and fabrics; moisture management; sensory technology; stain protection ...plus regular features Fast track; corporate profiles; product developments and innovations; business update
2
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets ISSN 1477-6456 This publication is available electronically and in printed format Details from Textiles Intelligence Limited International Subscriptions Alderley House, Wilmslow SK9 1AT United Kingdom Kingdom Telephone +44 (0)1625 536136 Facsimile +44 (0)1625 536137 Email [email protected]
The editor This issue of Performance Apparel Markets has been researched and edited by Lisa Muran, Jessica Farricker and Shaheda Khanom.
Statistics All statistics are drawn from official national and international sources unless otherwise indicated All tons are metric tons unless otherwise stated n/a = not available or not applicable
Textiles Intelligence Textiles Intelligence Limited is a company formed to handle the portfolio of fibres, textiles and clothing publications previously produced by the Economist Intelligence Unit. It is our commitment, through a wide range of Special Reports and four regular titles, Global Apparel Markets, Performance Apparel Markets, Technical Textile Markets and Textile Outlook International, to supply you with the highest quality business information about the international fibres, textiles and clothing industries.
Textiles Intelligence Limited is, unless otherwise stated, the owner of copyright and database right in this publication and its contents. No part of this publication may be published, distributed, extracted, re-utilised or reproduced in any material form (including photocopying or storing it in any medium by electronic means and whether or not transiently or incidentally to some other use of this publication) except as permitted by the Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988 or the Copyright and Rights in Databases Regulation 1997 (as applicable).
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries INTRODUCTION Head protection represents a significant segment of the market for sports gear. In most contact sports, head protection is either mandatory or at least preferred. The main exception is football (soccer)—a sport in which players purposefully use their unprotected heads to control the ball. That said, performance standards for helmets have been established in football, as well as in many other contact sports—including American football, baseball, cricket, cycling, equestrianism, ice hockey, motor racing, rugby and snow sports. In general terms, safety helmets have remained essentially the same for decades, and usually comprise: ● ● ● ●
a comfort liner; an impact attenuating liner; a restraint system; and a shell.
Most liners are made from expanded polystyrene (EPS) while most shells are made from thermoplastics. However, advanced models are made from carbon-, glass- or Kevlar-reinforced composites. Such helmets are designed to prevent traumatic head injuries—in the same way as seatbelts, airbags and smoke detectors have saved countless lives over the past 40 years. However, a debate has raged recently over whether or not they could do more. Specifically, the question is whether helmets could do anything to mitigate the effects of concussion. This is a frequent occurrence in contact sports, and it can have short- and long-term consequences for brain health in general and for neuro-cognitive functions in particular.
MIPS AB: MULTI-DIRECTIONAL IMPACT PROTECTION SYSTEM (MIPS) At the centre of the debate about the effectiveness of helmets is a technology called Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS). 4
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
The technology, developed and marketed by MIPS AB, a company based in Stockholm, Sweden, provides an increased level of protection against oblique impacts to the head—which, according to accident statistics, represent the most common accidents. However, official testing methods do not assess the extent to which helmets protect against oblique impacts. Instead, tests involve dropping the helmet vertically on to the impact surface. As a result, helmets have been designed to optimise protection against vertical impacts rather than oblique impacts. During an impact to the head, the latter sustains injury from a direct collision but also has to contend with rotational acceleration—the shifting action which occurs as the head whips back on the neck. This can result in a shear strain, in which the brain tissue bends or twists. A helmet incorporating MIPS technology absorbs much of the rotational energy, and is therefore said to offer radically better protection. MIPS works by mimicking one of the safety systems which already exist in the human head. When the head is subjected to an impact, the brain slides along a membrane on the inner surface of the skull and such action reduces the forces transmitted to the brain. This action was emulated by researchers at Kungliga Tekniska Högskolan (KTH—Royal Institute of Technology) and the Karolinska Institutet in Stockholm. In subsequent experimental and numerical tests, MIPS technology has shown a dramatic reduction of the forces to the brain resulting from an impact. In a helmet with MIPS technology, the shell and the liner are separated by a low friction layer which allows the shell to rotate relative to the liner when the helmet is subjected to an oblique impact. In designing the technology, MIPS AB developed a release mechanism which makes the helmet feel secure in normal handling, but which releases the liner from the shell when a certain load is exceeded. The liner then absorbs some of the pressure and thereby protects the head from the full force of the impact. Special attention was given during development to ensuring that the technology did not interfere with other properties of helmets, such as weight, design and comfort. Indeed, the incorporation of MIPS technology results in only a 5% increase in weight. Also, the technology does not have any impact on comfort or design. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
5
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
MIPS AB first showed prototypes of the technology as long ago as 2008. However, the technology failed to take the market for helmets by storm, and there appear to be a number of reasons for this. In particular, helmet manufacturing companies have been “programmed” only to ensure that their products pass EU or US certification. Commenting on this, the chief executive officer (CEO) of MIPS, Nick Steenberg, stated: “We’d created a situation where better protection was available but no one gave a damn about it, because you didn’t need it to pass certification. The concern that helmets weren’t protecting against concussion1 wasn’t even on the agenda.” The technology was accused of doing nothing but taking up space and adding complexity. Worse still, ASTM International (formerly known as the American Society for Testing and Materials) deemed the technology unproven and maintained that no helmet could reduce the risk of concussion. The implication is that the helmet testing industry is very resistant to change. Large manufacturers of helmets do not find it easy to adapt their products so that the latter can accommodate new technology, and those who have been investigating this concept have been doing so largely behind closed doors and away from the eyes of competitors and lawyers. Gradually, however, MIPS technology has started to reach receptive ears. The first to introduce a helmet incorporating MIPS technology was a Sweden-based equestrian company, Back on Track, in 2009. In 2011 a helmet incorporating MIPS technology for the mountain bike sector was developed by a Sweden-based manufacturer of protective sports gear called POC. In 2013 the technology was introduced into bike helmets produced by the USA-based company Scott Sports. Also, the technology has recently been endorsed enthusiastically by Popular Science magazine.
PHILLIPS HELMETS: PHILLIPS HEAD PROTECTION SYSTEM (PHPS) The Phillips Head Protection System (PHPS) is based on similar principles to those of MIPS technology. 1
Current test methods do not measure how helmets manage rotational acceleration, and this is a cause for concern given that many injuries, notably concussion, are caused by rotational force resulting from an impact. 6
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
The system was developed by Dr Ken Phillips, a UK-based inventor. Dr Phillips observed that rotation of the head causes severe and untreatable damage to the brain within milliseconds of an impact to the head, and that the scalp reduces the effect of the impact by sliding over the skull. In the PHPS, there is a lubricated flexible membrane over the outside of the helmet. The lubricant and elastic quality of the membrane are said to reduce the effect of rotational force on the brain by over 60% in the critical milliseconds following an impact to the head—thereby significantly reducing the head trauma and reducing the risk of traumatic brain injury. In the case of a motorcycle helmet, the PHPS membrane acts an additional interface between the helmet and the ground at the point where the helmet hits the ground during the milliseconds following an impact. The PHPS membrane decreases the friction of the helmet surface by moving and sliding over the hard shell. As a result, the rider’s head slips and slides over the road surface instead of sharply and immediately twisting around.
LAZER: SUPERSKIN, PURE CARBON AND PURE GLASS SUPERSKIN SuperSkin is a lubricated membrane layer developed by Lazer, a Belgium-based motorcycle helmet manufacturer. The membrane is based on PHPS technology, and is applied to the outside of the helmet. This helps to decrease the friction of the helmet surface so that the helmet slides on its shell and limits the rotational force which can result when the helmet hits the ground. PURE CARBON Pure Carbon, also developed by Lazer, provides greater comfort than conventional shells as the shell is ultra-lightweight. Weight is a crucial factor in the comfort of a helmet, and the outer shell is the heaviest component. Moreover, despite being ultra-lightweight, the shell provides a high level of protection. The shell has a sandwich structure comprising the following four layers: ● ● ● ● © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
an outer layer of high tensile strength satin carbon; a layer of natural fibres; a sheet of woven multiaxial fibres; and a scrim of carbon twill on the inner layer. 7
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
Pure Carbon shells are manufactured using proprietary weave patterns, resin formulae, temperature controlled polymerisation and vacuum moulding processes. The resins permeate the fibres in the layers more deeply and more homogenously than the resins used in conventional shells, and they have graduated fracturing qualities—much like the shock absorption zones on cars. Graduated fracturing slows down the impact on the shell by providing consecutive yielding points, each of which dissipates some of the rotational force resulting from the impact. PURE GLASS Lazer also offers a shell called Pure Glass. This has a structure which is similar to that of Pure Carbon except that it employs glass fabrics instead of carbon. As in the case of Pure Carbon shells, Pure Glass shells are ultralightweight and are therefore more comfortable than conventional shells. Also, as in the case of Pure Carbon, Pure Glass shells are manufactured using proprietary weave patterns, resin formulae, temperature controlled polymerisation and vacuum moulding processes. Furthermore, as in the case of Pure Carbon shells, the resins permeate the fibres in the layers more deeply and more homogenously than the resins used in conventional shells and have graduated fracturing qualities. As noted above, graduated fracturing slows down the impact on the shell by providing consecutive yielding points, each of which dissipates some of the rotational force resulting from the impact.
REEBOK AND MC10: CHECKLIGHT CheckLight is a sports cap which is able to detect when an athlete has received a serious blow to the head. The cap was launched by Reebok in July 2013. CheckLight is the result of collaboration between Reebok’s Advanced Concepts group and MC102, a technology company based in Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA. It is the first product to exploit the conformable electronics capabilities of MC10, and to wearers it feels as though it is almost seamless. 2
See also Reebok and MC10 have developed a new skull cap which can detect when an athlete has received a serious blow to the head, “Product developments and innovations”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 45, 2nd quarter 2013, page 23. 8
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
The technology has the ability to capture important data relating to impacts and is housed inside a mesh skull cap which is thin and breathable and fits comfortably under any helmet. MC10 discovered a method for making microprocessors which are so bendable and thin that they resemble electronic skin. The method was discovered purely by accident. In 2005 a researcher at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, Professor John Rogers, was testing new ways of making electronic circuits. During these tests, he accidentally pulled a piece of rubber taut as he placed it underneath a circuit. When he released the stretched rubber, it sprang back and the circuit became a wavy, buckled mess. The result was described as “an accordion made of silicon” and led to the formation of MC10. The process for creating the bendable electronic circuits begins with the manufacture of ribbons of ultra-thin silicon, each of which is 100 nanometres3 thick. At that scale, the physical properties of silicon differ from those of a conventional wafer. The ribbons are assembled into a lattice and then transferred on to a layer of rubber. The result is a flexible and durable semiconductor. Professor Rogers and his team have spent the years since their discovery refining the process in order to make it more suitable for high volume, low cost production. The company is now manufacturing electronic circuits which can be woven into fabrics, moulded on to flexible devices, or even adhered to body parts. The circuits can process data 1,000 times faster than other flexible microprocessors and they are as fast as conventional computer chips. The technology has proved popular, and has been adopted in a number of other sectors. MC10 has contracts with the US military under which it will work to adapt the technology to enable it to be used as photovoltaic “skin”. This could be used to power an unmanned aerial vehicle. MC10 is also exploring applications in the healthcare sector. In particular, it is working with Massachusetts General Hospital in the USA to put stretchy microprocessors on the tips of cardiac catheters which are threaded through arteries into the heart. 3
A nanometre (nm) is one billionth of a metre (10-9). By way of illustration, a single grain of sand measures approximately 100,000 nm in width. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
9
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
The smart catheters will at first be used to monitor electrical activity and help doctors to pinpoint the location of irregular heartbeats, or arrhythmias. Eventually, they could help to treat arrhythmias by attacking and destroying malfunctioning tissue. Meanwhile, Reebok has formed a partnership with the Neurotrauma Impact Science Laboratory (NISL) at the University of Ottawa in Canada which will enable it to thoroughly test its helmet technologies using the university’s rotational impact testing protocol4.
ADIDAS AND AYRTEK: ADIPOWER Adidas has developed a range of helmets under the name AdiPower for use by sports participants who play cricket. The helmets were developed with the help of technology from Ayrtek—a small company based in Bristol, UK. The flagship helmet in the range is called AdiPower RawTek. This has a shell made from a combination of carbon fibre and Kevlar, and it is available in a size range of 52-64 cm. It incorporates a patented Air Cushion Impact System (ACIS) liner developed by Ayrtek. The ACIS liner allows the wearer to achieve a bespoke fit by inflating it using a pump, or deflating it using an air release valve. As a result, the liner is able to cater to a large spectrum of head shapes and sizes. The development of the technology began with an intensive research, design and testing programme. This involved an investigation into the most common causes of head injuries for cricketers while they are batting. Most of these head injuries are caused by: ● the ball being able to penetrate the gap between the faceguard and the peak of the helmet; ● contact between the faceguard and the head or face after the faceguard has been hit by the ball; ● being struck in the back of the head, which is a relatively unprotected area; and ● the proximity of the faceguard to the batter’s temple. 4
Reebok-CCM Hockey is set to launch a new helmet in 2014 which will include new technologies and will be the only helmet which has been designed and tested using rotational impact protocol. 10
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries
Helmets in the AdiPower range have been specifically designed to reduce the likelihood of these injuries occurring because: ● the gap between the peak and the faceguard is so small that the likelihood of the ball being able to penetrate the gap is reduced; ● the faceguard is strengthened; ● the shell of the helmet is made from the strongest material possible; and ● the internal padding of the helmet provides a high level of comfort and protection. Adidas and Ayrtek carried out rigorous testing at all stages of the helmet’s development in conjunction with the Sports Technology Institute at Loughborough University in the UK. When the new range was launched, the global vice-president for cricket at Adidas, Simon Cartwright, said: “Cricket is [a] high velocity sport which requires extreme reaction times, particularly for batsmen who face fast bowling regularly. It’s vital that batsmen feel comfortable and confident in their equipment—particularly an important item like a helmet.” The England international cricketer Michael Carberry added: “In international cricket, we’re consistently facing bowling of 90-100 miles an hour (mph). When batting ... [a ball travelling at that speed] ... your mind is as free from distractions as possible. For me this means that the equipment I use should not only enhance my performance and look good but should also help me to feel physically and mentally comfortable so that I can give my full attention to the bowler.”
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
11
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
Product developments and innovations SUMMARY HeiQ and Huntsman Textile Effects have separately developed new fabric treatments, called Glider and EverGlide respectively, which reduce friction between the fabric to which they are applied and the skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric. EverGlide also provides the fabric with moisture wicking properties. Meanwhile, Tanatex has developed two new water repellent fabric treatments which are free from fluorocarbons. TenCate Protective Fabrics has developed two new types of protective fabric for use in the manufacture of firefighters’ turnout gear, and Teijin Frontier has developed a high performance stretch yarn called Solotex OO. Nike has developed a new range of sportswear which is manufactured using warp knitting technology. The range, called Nike Pro Elite Knit, has been designed especially for women and includes two styles of tank top and a pair of leggings. Nike has also developed a new waterproof sports jacket for golfers, called Nike Hyperadapt Storm-FIT. Hexoskin has developed a new T-shirt, also called Hexoskin, which is fitted with sensors that can analyse movement, breathing patterns and heart rate activity. Shark Attack Mitigation Systems (SAMS) and scientists from the Oceans Institute at the University of Western Australia have jointly developed two new wetsuits which, it is claimed, help to prevent the wearer from being attacked by sharks. NSP has developed a new range of surfboards and paddleboards, called Coco Mat, which are made using coconut husk fibres.
FABRICS FOR PROTECTIVE APPAREL
TenCate Protective Fabrics has developed two new types of protective fabric for firefighters’ turnout gear
1
TENCATE PROTECTIVE FABRICS HAS DEVELOPED TWO NEW TYPES OF FABRIC FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIREFIGHTERS’ TURNOUT GEAR TenCate Protective Fabrics has developed two new types of protective fabric for use in the manufacture of firefighters’ turnout gear1. TenCate Protective Fabrics is a manufacturer of flame resistant (FR) fabrics and a division of the Netherlands-based company Royal Ten Cate.
Turnout gear is the protective clothing worn by firefighters when they tend to a fire.
12
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
One of the fabrics, called TenCate Gemini XTL, is made using PBI fibre which has excellent thermal properties
One of the fabrics, called TenCate Gemini XTL, is made using polybenzimidazole (PBI) fibre.
The fabric has high tear strength, tensile strength and abrasion resistance
TenCate Protective Fabrics claims that the fabric has higher tear strength, tensile strength and resistance to abrasion than any other protective fabrics which are made using PBI fibres.
The other fabric, called TenCate Millenia, is made using PBO fibre which has a tensile strength and a modulus superior to those of aramid fibres
The other fabric, called TenCate Millenia, is made using poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) (PBO) fibre. PBO fibre is a high performance fibre which has a tensile strength and a modulus superior to those of aramid fibres such as Kevlar, Technora and Twaron, as well as high flame resistance and thermal stability. Also, it is fairly flexible and has a very soft hand, in spite of its excellent mechanical properties.
TenCate Millenia is extremely strong, is highly breathable and has moisture wicking properties
TenCate Millenia is extremely strong, is highly breathable and has moisture wicking properties. This means that the fabric, when incorporated in firefighters’ turnout gear, transports droplets of sweat away from the surface of the wearer’s skin to the outside of the fabric where it can evaporate. As a result, the wearer feels dry and comfortable and his or her heat stress level is reduced.
In addition, the fabric can not be penetrated by blood
In addition, the fabric can not be penetrated by blood, and therefore it protects the wearer from contracting diseases which are transmitted by blood. This property is of particular importance to firefighters, who may come into contact with injured people when they tend to a fire.
PBI fibre has excellent thermal stability. It has a high melting point, it does not burn in air, it does not melt or drip, and it retains its strength and flexibility after exposure to a flame.
FABRIC TREATMENTS
HeiQ has developed a new fabric treatment, called Glider, which helps to reduce friction between the fabric to which it is applied and the skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
HEIQ HAS DEVELOPED A NEW FABRIC TREATMENT CALLED GLIDER HeiQ—a producer of high performance textile finishes based in Switzerland—has developed a new fabric treatment which helps to reduce friction between the fabric to which it is applied and the skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric. The treatment, called Glider, is best suited for use on fabrics for sportswear—particularly those made from cotton, nylon and polyester. However, it is also suitable for use on fabrics for other garments which are worn close to the skin or for garments which are worn during physical activity. Such garments include shapewear and workwear.
13
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
During physical activity friction can result in increased levels of moisture, leading to skin irritation, blisters and discomfort, and hence lower athletic performance
When a person wearing a traditional sportswear garment participates in physical activity, friction between the garment and the skin can cause the skin to heat up.
However, treating the fabric with Glider reduces the amount of friction and so the wearer feels comfortable for longer
When a fabric treated with Glider is used to manufacture a garment, the treatment results in a reduction in the amount of friction between the garment and the wearer’s skin.
This results in increased levels of moisture on the skin which can lead to skin irritation and blisters. As a result, the wearer experiences discomfort and his or her athletic performance is decreased.
As a result, the wearer of the garment feels more comfortable for a longer period of time, even if he or she is participating in physical activity.
The treatment does not compromise a fabric’s other properties
When the treatment is applied to a fabric, it does not compromise any of the fabric’s other properties, such as its colour fastness, handle or resistance to pilling.
In addition, the treatment complies with Oeko-Tex Standard 100
In addition, the treatment complies with Oeko-Tex Standard 100, which certifies that it does not contain any substances that are hazardous to human health or the environment.
HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS HAS DEVELOPED A NEW FABRIC TREATMENT CALLED EVERGLIDE Huntsman Textile Effects Huntsman Textile Effects—a Singapore-based producer of chemicals has developed a new fabric and dye products—has developed a new fabric treatment which helps treatment, called EverGlide, to reduce friction between the fabric to which it is applied and the which helps to reduce fric- skin of the wearer of a garment made from the fabric. tion between the fabric to which it is applied and the The treatment, called EverGlide, is suitable for use in the manufacture skin of the wearer of a gar- of a wide range of sportswear—particularly cycle shorts, equestrian ment made from the fabric trousers, sports underwear and gym wear. During physical activity friction can result in increased levels of moisture, leading to skin irritation, blisters and discomfort, and hence lower athletic performance
When a person wearing a traditional sportswear garment participates in physical activity, friction between the garment and the skin can cause the skin to heat up.
But treating the fabric with EverGlide reduces the amount of friction
But when the garment is made from a fabric treated with EverGlide, the amount of friction between the garment and the wearer’s skin is reduced.
14
This results in increased levels of moisture on the skin which can lead to skin irritation and blisters. As a result, the wearer experiences discomfort and his or her athletic performance is decreased.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Also, EverGlide provides the fabric with moisture wicking properties which help to prevent the garment from becoming saturated with sweat
Product developments and innovations
Also, EverGlide provides the fabric with moisture wicking properties. These properties help to prevent the garment from becoming saturated with the wearer’s sweat, which can cause the wearer to suffer from chafing and post-exercise chill.
As a result, the wearer feels Because of the fabric’s moisture wicking properties, the wearer feels more comfortable for more comfortable for longer periods of time, even if he or she is longer periods of time participating in strenuous physical activity.
Tanatex has developed two new water repellent fabric treatments which are free from fluorocarbons
TANATEX HAS DEVELOPED TWO NEW WATER REPELLENT FABRIC TREATMENTS WHICH ARE FREE FROM FLUOROCARBONS Tanatex—a Netherlands-based producer of chemicals for textile treatments—has developed two new water repellent fabric treatments which are free from fluorocarbons. Fluorocarbons are used widely in treatments which provide fabrics with water repellency properties.
Fluorocarbons release substances which are thought to be harmful to the environment
However, they release substances which are thought to be harmful to the environment—such as perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and fluorotelomer alcohol (FTOH). Also, fluorocarbons are known to be bioaccumulative in humans.
One of the treatments is for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns made from synthetic fibres—
One of the treatments, called Baygard WRS, has been designed specifically for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns produced from synthetic fibres. The treatment is highly durable but does not compromise the handle of the fabric to which it is applied.
—while the other is for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns made from cotton or cotton blends
The other treatment, called Baygard WRC, has been designed specifically for use on fabrics manufactured from yarns produced from cotton, or yarns made from a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres.
The treatments can be used on fabrics for a range of applications
The treatments are suitable for use in the manufacture of fabrics for outdoor clothing and sportswear, as well as technical fabrics such as awnings, boat covers and upholstery for outdoor furniture.
FIBRES AND YARNS FOR PERFORMANCE APPAREL
Teijin Frontier has developed a high performance stretch yarn called Solotex OO— © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
TEIJIN FRONTIER HAS DEVELOPED A HIGH PERFORMANCE STRETCH YARN CALLED SOLOTEX OO Teijin Frontier—a Japan-based producer of performance fibres and a division of Teijin Group—has developed a high performance stretch yarn called Solotex OO.
15
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
—to meet growing demand for stretch yarns with higher levels of performance
The company developed the new yarn in order to meet growing demand for stretch yarns which have higher levels of performance than standard stretch yarns.
Solotex OO is made using Solotex PTT fibre and Roica polyurethane fibre
Solotex OO is made using Teijin Frontier’s Solotex polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fibre and Asahi Kasei’s Roica polyurethane fibre.
Solotex PTT fibre has excellent stretch and recovery properties and a soft touch and feel, and Roica is an elastane fibre with excellent stretch and recovery properties
Solotex PTT fibre has a spring-like molecular structure. As a result, it has excellent stretch and recovery properties. It also has a soft and supple touch and feel. Roica is a spandex (elastane) fibre which also has excellent stretch and recovery properties.
Garments made from fabrics Fabrics made from Solotex OO have excellent stretch properties and therefore garments made from such fabrics are very comfortable to containing Solotex OO are wear. comfortable to wear Solotex OO can be modified to provide a number of optional capabilities
Furthermore, Solotex OO can be modified to provide a number of optional capabilities—including absorbency, non-translucency, quick drying properties, thermal insulation and ultraviolet (UV) shielding.
Teijin Frontier aims to increase its sales of Solotex OO and develop its business in the apparel market
In the future, Teijin Frontier aims to increase its sales of Solotex OO and develop its business in the apparel market.
Figure 1 Cross-section of Solotex OO
Source: Teijin Frontier
NEW MATERIALS FOR SPORTS EQUIPMENT
NSP has developed a new range of surfboards and paddleboards made from coconut husk fibres 16
NSP HAS DEVELOPED A NEW RANGE OF SURFBOARDS AND PADDLEBOARDS MADE FROM COCONUT HUSK FIBRES NSP—a company based in Australia which specialises in surf products—has developed a new range of surfboards and paddleboards which are made from coconut husk fibres. The range is called Coco Mat. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
The range is manufactured using NSP’s Coco Mat Technology
Surfboards and paddleboards in the Coco Mat range are manufactured using NSP’s Coco Mat Technology. The company claims that the technology is the world’s first and only method of constructing surfboards and paddleboards from natural coconut husk fibres.
NSP harvests coconut husk fibres from self-sustaining coconut trees located near its manufacturing facilities, and the fibres require minimal processing
NSP harvests coconut husk fibres from self-sustaining crops of coconut trees which are located near to the company’s manufacturing facilities in Australia.
The boards have an EPS core encased in two fibreglass layers with a coconut fibre layer sandwiched between them and all layers are bonded with epoxy adhesive
The boards have an expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam core encased in two layers of fibreglass, which have a layer of coconut fibres sandwiched between them. Epoxy adhesive2 is injected into all the layers in order to bond them together.
Coconut husk fibres absorb less epoxy than other materials so the boards are lighter than traditional boards
Coconut husk fibres absorb less epoxy adhesive than materials which are used in the manufacture of traditional surfboards and paddleboards, such as carbon fibre and fibreglass. As a result, boards in the Coco Mat range are much lighter than traditional boards.
Also, coconut husk fibre has a high strength-to-weight ratio
Also, coconut husk fibre has a high strength-to-weight ratio. As a result, Coco Mat boards are among the lightest and strongest on the market and, according to NSP, they offer “a responsive, fluid ride with great flex characteristics”.
The boards are available in a variety of models and sizes
The Coco Mat surfboards and paddleboards are available in a variety of models and sizes. Prices range from US$365 for the Coco Mat Fish surfboard to US$1,570 for the Coco Mat SUP (stand-up paddleboard).
A video showing the surfboard can be found online
A video which shows a Coco Mat surfboard in use can be found by visiting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnxEHc7npos.
The fibres are described as random discontinuous fibres and require minimal processing.
PERFORMANCE APPAREL FOR WATER SPORTS
Two wetsuits which help to prevent the wearer from being attacked by sharks have been developed—
SHARK ATTACK MITIGATION SYSTEMS (SAMS) AND SCIENTISTS FROM THE OCEANS INSTITUTE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA HAVE JOINTLY DEVELOPED TWO NEW WETSUITS WHICH HELP TO PREVENT SHARK ATTACKS Shark Attack Mitigation Systems (SAMS) and scientists from the Oceans Institute at the University of Western Australia have jointly developed two new wetsuits which, it is claimed, help to prevent the wearer from being attacked by sharks3.
2
Epoxy adhesive is a very strong glue, and is made using a class of synthetic thermosetting polymers containing epoxide groups. 3
See also “Water sports apparel: innovation keeps brands afloat”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 43, 2nd quarter 2012.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
17
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
—in response to a high number of fatal attacks which occurred in 2012
The two parties were prompted to develop the wetsuits in response to the high number of fatal shark attacks which occurred in the waters surrounding Western Australia during 2012.
One of the wetsuits, called Elude, camouflages wearers as it is covered in a wavy pattern and is available in three shade of blue
One of the wetsuits, called Elude, has been designed to camouflage snorkelers and divers when they are swimming in the sea. The wetsuit is covered in a wavy pattern and is available in three different shades of blue.
The wetsuit in the darkest shade of blue is designed for use by The darkest blue wetsuit is people who dive up to 15 m below the surface of the sea. for people diving 15 m below the sea, the second darkest The wetsuit in the second darkest shade of blue is designed for use blue wetsuit is for people by people who dive up to 5 m below the surface of the sea. diving 5 m below the sea, and the lightest blue wetsuit is for snorkelers who swim across The wetsuit in the lightest shade of blue is designed for use by snorkelers, who swim across the surface of the sea. the surface of the sea The pattern and colour of each Elude wetsuit mimic the appearance of The pattern and colour of each wetsuit mimic the sea’s the sea at a particular depth, and therefore render the wearer of the appearance at certain depths wetsuit less visible to sharks. The other wetsuit, called Diverter, is designed to deter sharks from attacking the wearer as it is covered with a black and white striped pattern and stripes are associated with noxious animals
The other wetsuit, called Diverter, is designed to deter sharks from attacking the wearer when he or she is swimming in the sea. The Diverter wetsuit is covered with a black and white striped pattern. In nature, animals which have striped coats or skins in bold colours repel potential predators, as the predators associate striped patterns with noxious animals which should not be eaten. As a result, a person who wears the Diverter wetsuit is said to repel sharks. Figure 2 The Diverter wetsuit (left) and three versions of the Elude wetsuit
Source: Shark Attack Mitigation System (SAMS)
18
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
Each of the designs on the wetsuits can be applied to water sports equipment
Each of the designs featured on the Elude wetsuits and the Diverter wetsuit can be applied to surfboards, diving cages, kayaks and other equipment for water sports.
The wetsuits cost A$495 (US$466) each
The wetsuits cost A$495 (US$466) each and are available for purchase via www.radiator.com, an online store which sells surf wear and diving gear.
SAMS develops apparel and water sports products which protect users from being attacked by sharks, while the Oceans Institute specialises in marine biology
SAMS is a company based in Perth, Western Australia, which was established specifically to develop apparel and water sports products that would help to protect users from being attacked by sharks. The Oceans Institute is a research department at the University of Western Australia which specialises in marine biology.
SMART CLOTHING
Hexoskin has developed a new T-shirt, also called Hexoskin, which is fitted with sensors that can analyse movement, breathing patterns and heart rate activity
HEXOSKIN HAS DEVELOPED A NEW T-SHIRT FITTED WITH SENSORS WHICH CAN ANALYSE MOVEMENT, BREATHING PATTERNS AND HEART RATE ACTIVITY Hexoskin—a Canada-based technology company—has developed a new T-shirt, also called Hexoskin, which is fitted with sensors that can analyse movement, breathing patterns and heart rate activity. The T-shirt is available for men and women. Figure 3 Image showing Hexoskin T-shirt for men
Source: Hexoskin
The T-shirt is made from a fabric which has moisture management properties and thermoregulating properties © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
The T-shirt is made from a high-tech breathable fabric which has moisture management properties and thermoregulating properties. It can be worn under any type of sportswear, and is machine washable. 19
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
The T-shirt has sensors which measure the wearer’s vital signs and a device which captures such data from the sensors
The T-shirt has a number of sensors which measure the wearer’s vital signs, including: heart rate and heart rate variability; breathing rate and breathing volume; step count; activity intensity and calories burned; heart rate recovery; and estimated maximal oxygen consumption (VO2). It also has a device which captures such data from the sensors.
The device is attached to the sensors using a wire—
The device sits in a pocket on the side of the T-shirt and is attached to the sensors using a wire.
—and streams the data from the sensors wirelessly to an online account
The device streams the data captured from the sensors wirelessly to an online account which can be accessed via a mobile device in real time.
Alternatively, the device can store the data until the data can be transferred
If wireless capabilities are unavailable, then the device can store the data until the user is able to transfer the data to a mobile device using a USB cable.
The T-shirt uses dual band sensor technology and takes precise readings of the wearer’s breathing volume using two magnetic sensors
The T-shirt uses dual band sensor technology which ensures that the readings of the wearer’s cardiac performance are of high quality. It also takes precise readings of the wearer’s breathing volume using two magnetic sensors which measure the shape of the body when the wearer breathes.
The company has developed an app which can be used by coaches to monitor athletes
The company has developed an app4, called Hexoskin Team, which works in conjunction with the T-shirt.
The T-shirt can measure levels of stress during the day—
As the T-shirt is able to pick up activity patterns, breathing patterns and heart rate variability, it can measure levels of stress during the day.
—and can monitor the quality of the wearer’s sleep
It can also monitor the quality of the wearer’s sleep using a combination of movement, breathing, and heart sensors which provide information about sleep states.
However, the company is developing further algorithms for monitoring sleep with several partners
However, the company is developing further algorithms for monitoring sleep in collaboration with the Biomedical Engineering department at École Polytechnique de Montréal (Montreal Polytechnic), Hôpital Rivière-des-Prairies and other clinical partners.
The app can be used by coaches to monitor athletes during training routines.
4
An app is a software application designed to run on smartphones and other mobile devices. It is available through an application distribution platform, which is typically operated by the owner of the mobile phone operating system, such as the Apple App Store, BlackBerry App World, Google Play and Windows Phone Marketplace. 20
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
Currently, the company is raising funds to launch the T-shirt on to the market via a campaign on a crowd funding website
Currently, the company is attempting to raise funds in order to launch the T-shirt on to the market via a campaign on Indiegogo—a USA-based crowd funding5 website. Customers can purchase Hexoskin T-shirts via the Indiegogo website, and the company will begin to deliver the T-shirts to customers from March 2014.
A video showing Hexoskin can be found online
A video showing how Hexoskin works can be found on the Internet by visiting: http://youtu.be/sjcfHGaZ18Q.
SPORTSWEAR
Nike has developed a new range of sportswear for women called Nike Pro Elite Knit
The garments have a warp knitted construction which provides them with excellent stretch properties, and each garment is knitted as a single piece so they do not contain seams which cause discomfort
NIKE HAS DEVELOPED A NEW RANGE OF WOMEN’S SPORTSWEAR CALLED NIKE PRO ELITE The USA-based sportswear company Nike has developed a new range of sportswear for women. The range, called Nike Pro Elite Knit, is manufactured using warp knitting technology and includes two styles of tank top and a pair of leggings. The garments have a warp knitted construction which provides them with excellent stretch properties. Also, each garment in the range is knitted as a single piece, rather than as a number of panels which are then stitched together. As a result, the garments do not contain seams which could rub against the wearer’s skin during physical activity and cause discomfort.
Figure 4 Tank top from the Nike Pro Elite Knit range
Figure 5 Leggings from the Nike Pro Elite Knit range
Source: Nike
Source: Nike
5
Crowd funding is the practice of funding a project or venture by raising many small amounts of money from a large number of people, typically via the Internet. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
21
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Product developments and innovations
A thermodynamic map was used to determine which areas of the female body heat up the most during exercise, and the garments were designed with small holes in these areas to allow air to circulate through them
In developing the garments, designers from Nike studied a thermodynamic map of the female body in order to determine the parts of the body which heat up the most during exercise.
The holes can also be used as a visual guide to check the alignment of the body
Furthermore, the holes are arranged in straight lines to enable the wearer to use them as a visual guide and check the alignment of her body in a mirror during physical activity.
Nike has developed a new waterproof sports jacket for golfers
NIKE HAS DEVELOPED A NEW WATERPROOF SPORTS JACKET FOR GOLFERS Nike—a USA-based sportswear company—has developed a new waterproof sports jacket for golfers, called Nike Hyperadapt Storm-FIT.
As a result, the areas of the garments which cover these parts of the body have been designed with a number of small holes which allow air to circulate through them, thereby keeping the wearer cool during physical activity.
Golfers often wear jackets Nike decided to develop the jacket after learning that golfers often which are one size too big so wear waterproof jackets which are one size larger than their actual size they do not feel restricted so that they do not feel restricted when swinging a golf club. However, excess fabric from a larger garment can distract a golfer
However, the excess fabric from garments which are too large can distract the golfer when he or she is swinging a golf club, and cause the golfer to feel uncomfortable.
The Nike Hyperadapt Storm-FIT jacket is highly flexible
In contrast to regular waterproof jackets, the Nike Hyperadapt Storm-FIT jacket is highly flexible and therefore eliminates the need for the golfer to wear a jacket which is too big.
Its seams are pressure welded so the inside of the jacket is smooth
The seams of the lining of the jacket are pressure welded, which eliminates the need for sewing. As a result, the inside of the jacket is smooth and the risk of the golfer experiencing discomfort due to bulky seams is reduced.
Also, the arms and yoke of the jacket have a four-way stretch construction to maximise the golfer’s mobility, and the arms have adjustable cuffs
In addition, the arms and yoke of the jacket have a four-way stretch construction, which maximises the golfer’s mobility when he or she is performing a swing.
22
The arms also features adjustable cuffs, which further enhances the comfort of the jacket for the golfer.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is driving innovation SUMMARY Waterproof breathable fabrics—which protect against rain, wind and snow while allowing perspiration vapour to escape—are among the most technically advanced in the performance apparel market. And they have become even more high-tech as a result of developments in fields as diverse as biomimicry, silicon-based technology (SBT) and plasma technology. The market for waterproof breathable fabrics is poised to enjoy robust growth as combined demand from the outdoor wear, personal protective equipment (PPE), military and other segments is forecast to grow by an average of 5% per annum between 2011 and 2016. A major beneficiary of this growth will be W L Gore & Associates, which is credited with having created the waterproof breathable category of fabrics in the 1970s with its Gore-Tex PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) membrane. However, many have questioned whether W L Gore & Associates can maintain its stronghold in the marketplace as an increasing number of new products are commercialised. In particular, a number of suppliers of outdoor fabrics and apparel—including Columbia Sportswear, Polartec and Mountain Hardwear—have introduced products which claim superior levels of breathability. The introduction of functional alternatives to Gore-Tex has led to a significant increase in the range of choice for consumers. It has also led to greater segmentation in the market, as technologies have been developed for specific end uses and weather conditions. Competition in the industry seems set to intensify, leading to an increase in the tempo of innovation as companies strive to create garments which offer even higher levels of comfort and which can be produced in an environmentally friendly manner.
INTRODUCTION Waterproof breathable fabrics prevent moisture in the outside environment reaching the skin while allowing moisture vapour to escape, thereby helping to maintain wearer comfort © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics are designed to prevent moisture in the outside environment from reaching the skin while, at the same time, allowing moisture vapour in the form of perspiration to escape. This functionality plays a critical role in maintaining wearer comfort during outdoor activities in wet conditions because wet skin can lead to chilling, clamminess and chafing. 23
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Such fabrics comprise microscopic pores too small for liquid moisture to penetrate but large enough for moisture vapour to pass through
A large number of waterproof breathable fabrics have been commercialised and most are based on the same principle. In general, such fabrics comprise millions of microscopic pores which are too small for liquid moisture to penetrate but are large enough for moisture vapour to pass through.
In the past, fabrics offering wind and rain protection did not breathe, making them uncomfortable to wear
In the past, fabrics which offered protection from wind and rain did not breathe and this made them uncomfortable to wear. Consequently, manufacturers were faced with the challenge of producing a material with waterproofness and moisture permeability properties.
However, significant strides have been made to improve the functionality of waterproof breathable garments
However, thanks to significant strides in improving the functionality of waterproof breathable garments, consumers no longer have to choose between garments which are fully waterproof but less breathable, and those which are breathable but less waterproof.
DEVELOPMENT OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE CONSTRUCTIONS Attempts to create waterproof barriers in clothing date back centuries
Attempts to create waterproof barriers in clothing date back centuries. The Incas, for example, are known to have smeared sap from rubber plants over their clothing to repel water. Vikings and Inuits used fish oil while Saxon tribes used animal fat to achieve the same protection.
In modern times, one of the In the more modern era, one of the earliest waterproof fabrics to be earliest waterproof fabrics to developed was a rubber coated material, called Macintosh, which was be developed was Macintosh named after a Scottish chemist, Charles Macintosh. When Macintosh made its debut in the early 1820s, rubber-coated fabrics were widely available but suffered major drawbacks
When Macintosh made its debut in the early 1820s, rubber-coated fabrics were already widely available. However, they suffered major drawbacks. They became stiff, and tended to melt in hot weather. In addition, they tended to have an unpleasant smell. Mr Macintosh sought to overcome these drawbacks by treating the rubber in such a way that it became stronger and more elastic.
In 1879 Thomas Burberry invented a waterproof fabric for raincoats called gabardine
Further advancements in waterproof technology were made towards the end of the 1800s. In 1879 Thomas Burberry—a former apprentice to a country draper in England—invented a waterproof fabric for raincoats called gabardine. The material was constructed from cotton threads which were waterproofed before weaving.
Gabardines were commonly worn by British servicemen during the Second World War
At the time of its introduction, gabardine was considered to be the most breathable waterproof material available. Garments made from the material—which became known as “gabardines”—were commonly worn by British servicemen during the Second World War.
24
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
In the 1930s the Shirley Institute developed Ventile cotton fabric
In the late 1930s, scientists at the Shirley Institute in Manchester, UK, developed a cotton fabric, known as Ventile, which had a specially designed weave.
Cotton fibres in the fabric swell when wet to stop the passage of water
Cotton fibres in the fabric swell when they come into contact with water, and thereby prevent further passage of water through the fabric’s interstices.
Uniforms made from Ventile fabric were worn by RAF fighter pilots during the Second World War
Ventile fabric was used extensively in uniforms worn by British servicemen during the Second World War. Such uniforms helped to provide protection for British Royal Air Force (RAF) fighter pilots who were forced to bail out of their aircraft into the sea.
The 1930s also saw the development of synthetic polymers which had a huge impact on the industry
The 1930s also saw the development of synthetic polymers, which had a huge impact on the outdoor wear industry as these materials allowed clothing manufacturers to make high performance waterproof garments at a relatively low cost.
In the 1950s vinyl and plastic In the 1950s new waterproof materials such as vinyl and plastic found were used in rainwear a natural home in rainwear. In the 1970s the market was transformed by the introduction of Gore-Tex
In the 1970s the market for waterproof materials was transformed by the introduction of Gore-Tex, a waterproof fabric which was highly breathable.
Today, Gore-Tex is a highly recognised brand
Today, Gore-Tex is one of the most recognisable brands in the world.
Gore-Tex is made by W L Gore & Associates, a company set up by Wilbert Gore who left DuPont to start his own business and developed a porous film based on Teflon
Gore-Tex is manufactured by W L Gore & Associates, a company set up by Wilbert Lee Gore and his wife, Genevieve Walton Gore. Mr Gore had previously been a research supervisor at DuPont in the 1950s. While in this post, he had tried but failed to convince the company of the commercial potential of Teflon. He therefore left DuPont to start his own business and developed a porous film based on Teflon.
Gore-Tex solved the problem of combining waterproofness and breathability, but garments became contaminated from perspiration
From the outset, the use of Gore-Tex in garments solved the problem of combining waterproofness and breathability.
However, this problem was addressed in subsequent generations of Gore-Tex
This problem was addressed in subsequent generations of Gore-Tex, introduced in the 1980s and 1990s and, in more recent years, W L Gore & Associates has introduced more refined versions of the original Gore-Tex.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
However, the first generation of garments made from the material often became contaminated from perspiration.
25
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
THE MARKET FOR WATERPROOF BREATHABLE FABRICS The market for waterproof breathable fabrics is forecast to grow by nearly 5% a year between 2011 and 2016 to reach 376.5 mn metres
According to the market research firm Frost & Sullivan, the global market for waterproof breathable fabrics amounted to 297 mn in 2011 and is forecast to reach 376.5 mn metres by 2016, representing an average growth rate of nearly 5% a year over the five-year period (Figure 1).
The largest single application for waterproof breathable fabrics in 2011 was sports and leisure wear with a 77.6% share
The largest single application for waterproof breathable fabrics is, by far, sports and leisure wear. Indeed, in 2011 this sector accounted for an estimated 77.6% of the total amount of waterproof breathable fabrics produced (Figure 2). However, this market is expected to decline as a proportion of the total as it approaches maturity. Figure 1
Global waterproof breathable fabrics market, 2008-16 (mn metres)
400
300
276.9
277.0
282.2
2008
2009
2010
297.0
312.3
328.5
343.5
376.5
359.7
200
100
0 2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
NB: figures for 2012-16 are estimates Source: Frost & Sullivan.
Figure 2
Global waterproof breathable fabrics market by end-use application, 2011 Sports and leisure
77.6%
Othersa 4.6% Medical 6.0% Personal protective
11.8%
a Includes construction, personal care, tents, sleeping bags, automotive upholstery and luggage Source: Frost & Sullivan
26
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Since the 1970s, the market for waterproof breathable fabrics has been dominated by W L Gore & Associates
Since the late 1970s, the market for waterproof breathable fabrics has been dominated by W L Gore & Associates. This domination has caused much anger among other players in the performance apparel industry.
In 2010 Columbia Sportswear filed a complaint with the European Commission accusing W L Gore of anti-competitive practices
In 2010 USA-based Columbia Sportswear, a supplier of active outdoor apparel, filed a complaint with the European Commission which accused W L Gore & Associates of anti-competitive practices1. According to Columbia, W L Gore & Associates was engaging in “unfair business practices, intimidating footwear and glove licensees into loyalty and violating antitrust laws by excluding the competition”.
W L Gore denied the allegations and said it offered the best products
W L Gore & Associates denied the allegations and said that it was successful in the market because it offered the best and most innovative products.
WATERPROOF BREATHABILITY IN PERFORMANCE APPAREL
A fabric labelled waterproof must provide sustained water protection in very wet conditions
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproofness is defined as the ability of a fabric to prevent penetration through its construction by water. A fabric which is labelled waterproof must provide sustained water protection in very wet conditions.
A waterproof fabric is usually tightly woven and then coated or laminated
A fabric described as waterproof is usually a tightly woven material which has been either coated with or laminated to a polymeric film to prevent water droplets from penetrating the pores in the fabric.
A waterproof garment is designed so that all passages through which water can enter, including seams, are blocked
A waterproof garment is designed so that all passages through which water can enter from the outside are blocked. Also, the backs of seams in a waterproof garment are sealed by taping them, in order to prevent water seeping through holes created in the fabric during the sewing of the garment—a process known as strikethrough.
Seams can be sonically sealed Seams can also be sonically sealed, rather than stitched, to prevent to prevent strikethrough strikethrough. A water repellent fabric differs from a waterproof fabric in that it resists water penetration by forcing the water to bead on its outer surface
WATER REPELLENCY A water repellent, or shower resistant, fabric is one that has been treated with a water repellent finish which resists water penetration by forcing the water to bead on the fabric’s outer surface. A water repellent fabric is therefore not the same as a waterproof fabric—given that waterproofness is the ability of a fabric to prevent penetration through its construction by water.
1
See also W L Gore has been accused of violating EU competition laws and is being investigated by the US Federal Trade Commission, “Business update”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 37, 2nd quarter 2011, page 94.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
27
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Garments made from water repellent fabrics can only withstand light precipitation Breathability is important for comfort and is the degree to which a fabric, coating or film allows moisture vapour to pass through it
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Garments, such as conventional soft shell2 jackets, which are made from water repellent fabrics can withstand light precipitation but not torrential downpours. BREATHABILITY Breathability, or moisture vapour permeability, is considered to be one of the most important factors for comfort in performance apparel. Breathability is defined as the degree to which a fabric, coating or film allows moisture vapour to pass through its construction.
Moisture vapour can pass through a fabric in two ways
Moisture vapour can pass through a fabric in two ways, namely:
Breathability is an important consideration for maintaining the body’s “microclimate”
If a garment can not breathe, then vapour and excess heat from the body can not escape. Breathability is an important consideration for maintaining the body’s “microclimate”—the temperature and humidity of the area next to the skin.
The body tries to keep its core temperature at 37°C and any extra heat produced must be eliminated
The human body strives to keep its core temperature at 37°C (98.6°F) and any extra heat produced—for example during physical activity— must be eliminated in order for the body to maintain a comfortable temperature.
If the normal heat loss mechanisms are not sufficient, the body perspires to achieve cooling through evaporation
Elimination of the extra heat is normally achieved through three processes: radiation, conduction and convection. During strenuous physical activity, however, these mechanisms may not prove sufficient. Consequently, the body perspires and excess heat is eliminated through the cooling effect of evaporation.
During strenuous exercise, the body can produce two litres of perspiration in one hour
During moderate exertion, the body produces about half a litre of perspiration in one hour.
If perspiration can not escape, then wet fabric will cling to the skin and this can cause discomfort
If perspiration—in the form of moisture vapour—condenses on the inside of the fabric and can not escape into the atmosphere, then wet fabric will cling to the skin and this can cause discomfort. In cold weather this process may lead to chilling when activity is stopped.
● ventilation—whereby moisture vapour passes directly through the pores in the fabric; and ● solid state diffusion—whereby moisture vapour condenses on the fabric’s inner surface and is then pushed through to the fabric’s outer surface from which it evaporates (vapour to liquid to vapour).
During strenuous exercise, it can produce up to two litres of perspiration in one hour.
2
A soft shell is an outerwear garment which performs the functions of two or more garments. It is soft to the touch, resistant to wind and rain, and highly breathable. A hard shell, by comparison, is an outerwear garment which protects the wearer from inclement weather. It is typically made from a tough and abrasion-resistant material such as nylon. 28
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Thanks to technological advances, the rate at which waterproof breathable fabrics can transfer perspiration vapour has more than quadrupled since the early 1990s
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Thanks to technological advances, the rate at which waterproof breathable fabrics can transfer perspiration vapour has more than quadrupled since the early 1990s and over the past ten years innovation has been significant. However, many waterproof breathable garments are still perceived as trapping perspiration when exertion levels are high. Fabric manufacturers are addressing this problem by putting much effort into making further improvements in membrane and laminate technology.
TESTING STANDARDS FOR WATERPROOFNESS, WATER REPELLENCY AND BREATHABILITY
The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by the amount of pressure which can be applied to the fabric before a certain amount of water is pushed through
WATERPROOFNESS The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by the amount of pressure which can be applied to the fabric before water is pushed through it. The more a fabric resists the entry of water under pressure, the more waterproof it is said to be. The amount of pressure can be measured in pounds per square inch (psi or lb/in2) or kilopascals (kPa), or it can be expressed as the height in millimetres of a column of water or hydrostatic head3.
One major company has said that its fabrics must be able to resist a pressure of at least 25 psi to be labelled waterproof
One major company has stated that, in order to be labelled waterproof, its fabrics must be able to resist a pressure of at least 25 psi. By way of comparison, the pressure exerted by wind-driven rain is equivalent to about 2 psi while the pressure exerted by hurricane-force rain is roughly 10 psi.
However, this appears to be stringent in comparison with official standards, including the European standard for protective clothing which provides protection against rain
However, this requirement appears to be quite stringent in comparison with official standards. The European standard for protective clothing which provides protection against rain4, for example, defines three categories of garments where lower pressures are permissible, as follows. ● The first category includes garments which are waterproof when subjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 80 cm, which is equivalent to about 1.1 psi, before certain defined pre-treatments5.
3
A hydrostatic head is a way of describing the pressure applied to a material in terms of the height of an equivalent column of water. Because the pressure exerted is determined solely by the height of the column, it is possible to use this figure to quantify how waterproof a fabric is. For example, a fabric which can withstand a hydrostatic head of one metre will resist the passage of water until the pressure of the water exceeds this value. 4
BS EN 343:2003+A1: 2007, Protective clothing. Protection against rain.
5
The pre-treatments are defined as: five laundering cycles; 5,000 abrasions with a standard worsted fabric; and 100,000 flexes or 9,000 flexes carried out on the lines of a Schildknecht flex tester or a crumple tester respectively. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
29
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
● The second category includes garments which are waterproof when subjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 80 cm (1.1 psi) after the pre-treatments. ● The third category includes garments which are waterproof when subjected to a minimum hydrostatic head of 1.3 metres (1.9 psi) after the pre-treatments. Experience at Leeds University suggests that the pressure should be at least 10 psi to ensure durability
However, practical experience at the University of Leeds in the UK suggests that a minimum hydrostatic head of 7 metres (10 psi) is required after pre-treatments if a fabric is to remain waterproof for the lifetime of the garment.
Table 1: Waterproof ratings Waterproof rating (mm H2O)a Resistance provided 0-5,000 No resistance or some resistance to moisture 6,000-10,000 Rainproof and waterproof under light pressure 11,000-15,000 Rainproof and waterproof except under high pressure 16,000-20,000 Rainproof and waterproof under high pressure >20,000 Rainproof and waterproof under very high pressure a Hydrostatic head (see page 29). Source: www.evo.com.
What it can withstand Light rain, dry snow, no pressure Light rain, average snow, light pressure Moderate rain, average snow, light pressure Heavy rain, wet snow, some pressure Heavy rain, wet snow, high pressure
Table 2: Waterproof ratings of selected waterproof breathable fabrics
Fabric Texapore Hyproof O3 eVent Gore-Tex Paclite Shell Gore-Tex Performance Shell Gore-Tex Pro Shell MemBrain Strata Pertex Shield+ Helly Tech PreCip a Hydrostatic head (see page 29). Source: author’s own research.
Water repellency is tested by a so-called “spray test” This measures the area of the fabric which maintains its beading properties and does not become saturated
30
Company Jack Wolfskin General Electric W L Gore & Associates W L Gore & Associates W L Gore & Associates Marmot Mitsui & Co Helly Hansen Marmot
Waterproof rating (mm H2O)a 40,000 30,000 28,000 28,000 28,000 20,000 20,000 15,000 15,000
WATER REPELLENCY The water repellency of a fabric is tested using a so-called “spray test”. This measures the area of the fabric which maintains its beading properties and does not become saturated. The results are shown as the percentage of the fabric which still beads up after a given number of washing treatments. For example, a result of 80/20 would indicate that 80% of the fabric still beads up after 20 washings.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
A large number of tests are used to measure breathability, but the results from different test methods are not directly comparable
BREATHABILITY A large number of tests are available for measuring breathability, but the results from different test methods are not directly comparable. In order to make a reliable comparison between the breathability of one fabric and that of another, therefore, it is important that both fabrics are tested using the same method under the same conditions.
Breathability is determined by calculating the moisture vapour transfer rate (MVTR)
Breathability can be determined by calculating the moisture vapour transfer rate (MVTR)—which is the rate at which a fabric allows moisture vapour to pass through to the outside air in a given amount of time.
Moisture vapour transfer increases when the atmosphere outside the clothing is cooler and drier
When the temperature and humidity are greater on the inside of clothing than on the outside, moisture vapour will attempt to move to the outside. Therefore, moisture vapour transfer increases when the atmosphere outside the clothing is cooler and drier. When the atmosphere is hotter and more humid, by contrast, moisture vapour transfer decreases.
The higher the MVTR, the more breathable the fabric
The MVTR is measured by determining the amount of moisture vapour in grams which passes through 1 m2 of fabric over a 24-hour period. The higher the MVTR, the more breathable the fabric. Table 3: Breathability ratings of selected waterproof breathable fabrics
Fabric Company Texapore Hyproof O3 Jack Wolfskin Gore-Tex Pro Shell W L Gore & Associates eVent General Electric MemBrain Strata Marmot Pertex Shield+ Mitsui & Co Gore-Tex Performance Shell W L Gore & Associates Gore-Tex Paclite Shell W L Gore & Associates Helly Tech Helly Hansen PreCip Marmot a Moisture vapour transfer rate (see above). Source: author’s own research.
Breathability rating (g/m2/24 hours)a 30,000 25,000 22,000 20,000 20,000 17,000 15,000 15,000 12,000
Breathability can also be determined by calculating a fabric’s resistance to evaporative heat transfer (RET)
The breathability of a fabric can also be determined by calculating its resistance to evaporative heat transfer (RET).
RET values can be used to express the breathability of a single fabric or an entire clothing system
RET values can be used to measure the breathability of an individual piece of fabric, or an entire clothing system comprising multiple layers. The total RET value can be calculated by simply adding the RET values of the individual fabric or clothing layers.
Each layer increases the RET value and lowers overall breathability
The RET value of a naked body is zero. As layers of clothing are added, each layer and the air between these layers boosts the RET value, thereby decreasing overall breathability.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
The lower the RET value, the higher the fabric’s breathability.
31
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The Hohenstein Institute has The Germany-based Hohenstein Institute has correlated RET values to correlated RET values to the physiological comfort of human subjects and has established physiological comfort ratings various ratings of wear comfort (Table 4). Table 4: RETa values and wear comfort RETa value 60 or less More than 60 but less than or equal to 130 More than 130 but less than or equal to 200 More than 200 but less than or equal to 300 More than 300 a Resistance to evaporative transfer. Source: Hohenstein Institute.
Breathability Very breathable Very breathable Breathable Slightly breathable Not breathable
Wear comfort Very good Good Satisfactory Unsatisfactory Unsatisfactory
WAYS OF ACHIEVING WATERPROOF BREATHABILITY IN APPAREL Waterproof breathability is achieved by using tightly woven fabrics or adding a technology Naturally breathable fabrics can be made by tightly weaving them from microfibres but these fabrics tend to be heavy
Waterproof breathability in a garment can be achieved by using tightly woven fabrics or incorporating a waterproof breathable technology. TIGHTLY WOVEN FABRICS A tightly woven fabric can block the penetration of wind or rain from the outside while allowing moisture vapour from the inside to escape. Naturally breathable fabrics can be made by tightly weaving them from microfibres. However, because of their dense weave, these fabrics tend to be relatively heavy.
Also, such fabrics are not inherently waterproof
Also, such fabrics are not inherently waterproof. Water can penetrate in certain conditions, making them unsuitable for use in very wet weather.
Ripstop fabric is water repellent, wind resistant and tear resistant, thanks to its special construction
Ripstop fabric is water repellent and wind resistant. The fabric is usually made from nylon or polyester, and is tightly woven with double threads at regular intervals to prevent tears in the fabric from spreading. This type of construction gives the fabric a grid-like appearance.
Conventional waterproof breathable technologies for apparel can be broadly split into two categories A coating can be thought of as paint and a laminate as wallpaper 32
WATERPROOF BREATHABLE TECHNOLOGIES Conventional waterproof breathable technologies for apparel can be broadly split into two categories, namely: ● coated fabrics; and ● laminated fabrics. A coating can be thought of as paint spread on a wall while a laminate can be thought of as wallpaper glued to a wall.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Coated fabrics are more widely used in waterproof breathable garments than laminated fabrics as they are less expensive
Coated fabrics Coated fabrics are more widely used in waterproof breathable garments than laminated fabrics as they are less expensive. Indeed, coated fabrics account for roughly 80% of the total market for waterproof breathable fabrics. This share could be higher if it were not for the fact that coated fabrics tend to be less breathable and durable.
A polymer coating is applied to a tightly woven abrasion resistant fabric
A coated fabric for a waterproof breathable garment is normally produced by applying a polymer coating to a tightly woven abrasion resistant fabric.
The coating is applied to the face nearest to the skin by spraying or rolling
The coating is applied to the face of the fabric which is nearest to the skin, either by spraying or rolling.
A laminated fabric incorporates a thin membrane which resists water penetration and yet allows the passage of water vapour Membranes can be made from a number of materials
The main waterproof breathable fabrics on the market have a coating or membrane which is microporous—
Laminated fabrics A laminated fabric, or laminate6, is formed by attaching a thin membrane, using an adhesive, to an abrasion-resistant densely woven fabric made from nylon or polyester. The membrane resists water penetration and yet allows the passage of water vapour. Typically, membranes are made from: ● ● ● ●
expanded polytetrafluoroethylene7 (ePTFE); polyurethane films; polyester films; and polyethylene.
Coatings and membranes The main waterproof breathable fabrics on the market today have a coating or membrane which takes one of the following three forms: ● a microporous coating or membrane, whose microscopic pores allow water vapour, but not liquid, to pass through the fabric;
—non-porous—
● a non-porous, or monolithic, coating or membrane, which is capable of absorbing moisture vapour from the inside of the fabric and pushing it through to the outside; or
—or a bicomponent which is a combination of the two
● a bicomponent coating or membrane, which offers a combination of the two.
6
The term laminate is sometimes used in the waterproof breathable sector to refer to a film or membrane. However, the strict definition of a laminate in this context is a fabric which comprises two or more layers bonded together. 7
Expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) is a stretched form of PTFE. PTFE was invented accidentally in 1938 when Roy Plunkett of DuPont was attempting to make a new chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) refrigerant using tetrafluoroethylene gas. The latter underwent polymerisation in a pressurised storage container because iron on the inside of the container acted as a catalyst. The process was subsequently patented and PTFE coating was registered under the name Teflon in 1945. Later the brand became synonymous with non-stick cookware. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
33
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
In microporous coatings or membranes, the pores are bigger than perspiration vapour molecules but smaller than raindrops—
In microporous coatings or membranes, the individual pores typically range from 0.1 to 1.0 microns8 in diameter. They are bigger than the diameter of perspiration vapour molecules (approximately 0.0004 microns) but are smaller than those of raindrops (greater than 3.0 microns).
—so water vapour (perspiration) can pass through but raindrops can not
This means that perspiration vapour can pass through and yet raindrops can not. The larger the pores of the coating or film, the more breathable but the less waterproof is the fabric to which it is applied. Conversely, the smaller the pores, the more waterproof but the less breathable is the resulting fabric.
A non-porous coating or film uses molecular movement within the hydrophilic polymer from which the coating or film is made in response to temperature changes to drive moisture from the inside to the outside of the fabric
A non-porous coating or film uses molecular movement within the hydrophilic polymer from which the coating or film is made to drive moisture from the inside to the outside of the fabric.
As the body produces more moisture, the distance between the molecular chains increases, thus allowing even more moisture to migrate
As the body produces more moisture, the distance between the molecular chains increases, thereby enabling even more migration of moisture to take place. In other words, the hydrophilic polymer will swell as water molecules are absorbed—and the greater the amount of moisture produced, the greater the swelling.
A bicomponent offers the benefits of both types while removing a drawback of microporous materials
A bicomponent coating or film uses a combination of microporous and non-porous materials. In doing so, it achieves the benefits of both types while eliminating a major disadvantage of microporous materials.
Microporous components resist the passage of liquid water, but readily allow water vapour and other gases to flow
Microporous coatings or films are inherently hydrophobic and contain very small pores. These pores resist the passage of liquid water, even at very high pressures, but readily permit the flow of water vapour and other gases. Microporous coatings or films are breathable because liquid sweat is evaporated inside the garment, and the resulting vapour diffuses through the coating or film to the outside.
But perspiration emitted during strenuous activity contains surface active agents which gradually coat the interior surfaces of the pores and cause the waterproof characteristics to be lost
But a problem arises when microporous materials are used for very strenuous activity, resulting in heavy sweating. This is because perspiration contains surface active agents which gradually penetrate the coating or film and then coat the interior surfaces of the pores. As a result, the coating or film loses its waterproof characteristics and wicks moisture through. This occurs because the surface agents lower the surface tension of liquid water from rain, and the water can then pass through the fabric from the outside to the inside.
8
The molecular movement results from thermal vibration in response to temperature changes—the higher the temperature, the greater the movement. In this way, the heat generated by the body inside the fabric of a garment drives water vapour down the polymer chains in the coating or film to the external face of the fabric. The molecules of water migrate from chain to chain rather than freely through a physical hole or pore.
A micron is a millionth (10-6) of a metre.
34
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The problem can be solved by adding a thin layer of non-porous hydrophilic polymer to the inside of the microporous surface
Fortunately, it is possible to prevent these contaminants from reaching the pores. This can be achieved by adding a thin layer of a non-porous hydrophilic polymer film to the inside of the microporous surface which is closest to the skin to form a bicomponent fabric. The film still allows water vapour to pass through, which means that the fabric’s breathability is maintained.
Liquid sweat can be absorbed by the hydrophilic layer and still transmitted through the fabric
Adding a hydrophilic layer in this way has the additional benefit that liquid sweat can be absorbed by the hydrophilic layer and still transmitted through the fabric. This does not happen with true microporous materials.
In eVent fabrics, an oleophobic layer around individual ePTFE filaments protects the membrane from contaminants
eVent fabric (see page 41) has a membrane comprising individual filaments of ePTFE which are surrounded with an oleophobic coating. The coating protects the membrane from contaminants such as dirt, body oils, cosmetics and sunscreen lotion.
A DWR finish works by lowering the surface energy of the outer face of the fabric, causing water droplets to bead up and roll off
DURABLE WATER REPELLENT (DWR) FINISHES A durable water repellent (DWR) finish can be applied to a fabric in the form of a hydrophobic finish. DWR finishes are usually fluorocarbon-based, and work by lowering the surface energy, or surface tension, of the outer face of the fabric. Lowering the surface tension of the fabric causes water droplets to bead up and roll off.
A DWR finish does not inhibit breathability
A DWR finish does not inhibit breathability as it does not coat the fabric. Instead, it bonds to the fibres in the fabric.
It is applied by spraying or immersing the fabric
The finish is applied to the fabric during manufacture, either through spraying or by immersing the fabric in a chemical bath.
The finish prevents light rain from penetrating it
The finish prevents light rain from penetrating but it does not provide protection against torrential rain.
A DWR-treated fabric can absorb water amounting to 30-50% of its own weight as a result of “wet-out”
In fact, a fabric treated with a DWR finish can absorb an amount of water equal to 30-50% of its own weight as a result of “wet-out”, the effect seen when water begins to soak into the face fabric9. Wet-out compromises the breathability of a fabric as the flow of moisture from inside the fabric is blocked by water on the outside.
DWR finishes are used with laminates or coatings
DWR finishes are used routinely in conjunction with laminates or coatings.
Their effectiveness can be affected by dirt and other contaminants
The effectiveness of DWR finishes can be adversely affected by dirt, residues from detergents, oil, chemicals and other contaminants, which alter the fabric’s surface tension.
9
A face fabric is the outer layer of a waterproof breathable fabric.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
35
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
They are not permanent and tend to wear off over time, but their performance can be boosted by wash-in treatments and machine drying
Waterproof breathable fabrics
In addition, DWR finishes are not permanent and tend to wear off over time. However, their performance can be boosted by wash-in impregnations and machine drying a garment to which the finish has been applied.
WATERPROOF BREATHABLE GARMENTS
Laminates, coatings and DWR finishes incorporating fluorocarbons are highly effective in making garments resistant to water, oil and dirt
COMPOSITION OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE GARMENTS Laminates, coatings and durable water repellent (DWR) finishes are used in most high-tech waterproof breathable garments. Many of these products contain fluorocarbons. These are organofluorine compounds which contain only carbon and fluorine bonded together in strong carbon-fluorine bonds. Such compounds are used to make garments resistant to water, oil and dirt, and they are highly effective in doing so.
But PFOA may be present in trace amounts as a pollutant and is “likely to be carcinogenic” and bioaccumulative
However, perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) may be present in trace amounts as a pollutant, and PFOA has been declared “likely to be carcinogenic to humans” by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
The EPA has started a programme with eight chemical companies to eliminate the use of PFOA by 2015
Following investigations into the potential health risks posed by PFOA, the EPA initiated a programme with eight chemical companies10 to eliminate the use of this substance by 2015.
Manufacturers have introduced fluorochemicals based on C4 and C6 fluorocarbons as they are seen as less harmful than conventional fluorochemicals based on C8 fluorocarbons but those based on C6 fluorocarbons are not as effective as their C8 counterparts
In response to growing concerns among outdoor apparel suppliers and the public about the dangers associated with PFOA, manufacturers have introduced fluorochemicals with shorter fluorinated side chains based on C4 and C6 fluorocarbons as these are regarded as being less harmful than conventional fluorochemicals based on C8 fluorocarbons11.
Also, PFOA is known to have bioaccumulative properties in that it tends to be stored in the bodies of humans and animals.
However, while fluorochemicals based on C6 fluorocarbons are regarded as being less harmful than their C8 counterparts, they are not as effective at repelling water.
10
The eight companies are Arkema, Asahi Glass Company, Ciba Specialty Chemicals (now BASF), Clariant, Daikin, DuPont, Dyneon (a subsidiary of 3M) and Solvay Solexis. 11
For further information, see “Leading Edge Technologies for Textile Finishing”, Textile Outlook International, No 152, September 2011.
36
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
CONSTRUCTION OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE GARMENTS A waterproof breathable gar- A waterproof breathable garment is typically made from a material ment has two or more layers comprising two or more layers. A 2-layer construction has an abrasion resistant face fabric and a coating
A 2-layer construction is made from an abrasion resistant face fabric—usually polyester or nylon—to which a membrane or coating has been applied.
A 2.5-layer construction has an outer layer, a membrane and a half-layer
A 2.5-layer construction comprises an outer layer, a membrane and a half-layer, which may comprise laminated “dots”, a grid pattern or resins. These are designed to provide abrasion resistance.
A 3-layer construction has a laminate between a face fabric and a liner fabric, while a 4-layer construction has a face fabric, a membrane, a coating and a lining
A 3-layer construction comprises a laminate sandwiched between a face fabric and a liner fabric.
Garment design is key to enhancing the waterproof breathability of apparel, and many garments boast a number of features which promote physiological comfort
A 4-layer construction is made up of a face fabric, a microporous membrane, a hydrophilic coating and a moisture wicking lining. DESIGN FEATURES OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE GARMENTS Garment design plays a key role in enhancing the waterproof breathability of apparel worn for outdoor sports and recreational activities. Most high quality garments designed for these activities boast design features which promote physiological comfort. Such features include: ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
adjustable closures; core vent pockets; drawstring hems; pit zips; powder skirts; storm flaps; and waterproof seams.
Adjustable closures can regulate airflow to and from the wearer’s arms and legs
Adjustable closures around the wrists of a jacket and the ankles of pants can be tightened or loosened to regulate airflow to and from the wearer’s arms and legs. They are typically constructed from hook and loop tapes.
Core vent pockets increase airflow when opened
Core vent pockets are specially designed pockets which increase airflow when opened, thereby enhancing breathability.
Drawstring hems seal out cold air, rain and snow, and can help to regulate air circulation within the garment
Drawstring hems are featured on many waterproof jackets and pants. They perform the same function as hook and loop closures by sealing out cold air, rain and snow. The hems contain an elasticated cord which can be tightened or loosened to regulate air circulation within the garment.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
37
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Pit zips allow perspiration vapour to escape
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Pit zips are zips located on the underarms of a jacket. When opened, they allow perspiration vapour to escape.
A powder skirt fits around A powder skirt is a piece of fabric with elasticated hems and snap the waist of the lining of a closures, which fits around the waist of the lining of a jacket. jacket and resists penetration of air and moisture Like a drawstring hem, it resists penetration of air and moisture. Storm flaps stop moisture from entering zips
Storm flaps are pieces of material which cover zips to prevent moisture from penetrating through zip teeth.
Waterproof seams prevent Waterproof seams are those which have been sealed with tape or a water from seeping through sealant to prevent water from seeping through.
APPLICATIONS OF WATERPROOF BREATHABLE MATERIALS Waterproof breathable fabrics have a number of key applications in clothing
The key applications of waterproof breathable fabrics in clothing are in:
The fabrics are used mainly for outer layer garments to protect the wearer from the elements without compromising the performance of base layer and middle layer garments
In these applications, the fabrics are used mainly for outer layer garments. The primary function of outer layer garments is to protect the wearer from the elements—wind, rain and snow.
Fabrics vary greatly in their ability to keep water out and their ability to allow moisture vapour to escape
Waterproof breathable fabrics vary greatly in their ability to keep water out and their ability to allow moisture vapour to escape. Despite significant innovation, achieving waterproof breathability while maintaining durability involves a trade-off: the more waterproof the fabric the less able it is to breathe, and vice versa.
The most important consideration in selecting a waterproof breathable garment is the application for which it is to be used
The most important consideration in selecting a waterproof breathable garment is the application for which it is to be used. A truly waterproof fabric must have the ability to withstand water when used for different activities in adverse weather conditions—for example, when hiking in wind driven rain, while fishing, and while sitting on wet surfaces.
38
● ● ● ●
sportswear; leisure wear; personal protective equipment (PPE); and medical clothing.
This protection must be achieved without compromising the performance of the base layer garment—which provides moisture management—and the middle layer garment, which provides warmth and insulation.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The perceived comfort of a waterproof breathable garment depends on the wearer’s activity level
The perceived comfort of a waterproof breathable garment depends on the wearer’s activity level. Higher activity levels cause the body to create more moisture vapour. This must be transported to the outside of the garment efficiently in order to prevent discomfort. The more active the wearer, the more breathability is desired.
There are also a number of other factors which affect the comfort of a waterproof breathable garment
Other factors which affect the comfort of a waterproof breathable garment include:
Waterproof breathable fabrics have a wide range of applications in the leisure wear market and the workwear market
Waterproof breathable fabrics have a wide range of applications in the leisure wear market and the workwear market (Table 5).
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
the the the the the the the the
ambient temperature; level of humidity; metabolism of the wearer; thickness of the garment’s face fabric; type of clothing worn underneath the garment; type of garment lining12; use of vents such as zips; and wind speed.
They are also used extensively in items such as sleeping bags, tents and mattresses.
Table 5: Applications of waterproof breathable fabrics in apparel, footwear and accessories Leisure wear Heavy-duty, foul weather clothing Fashionable weather protection Workwear Foul weather clothing
Anoraks, cagoules, gaiters, gloves, hats, over-trousers Golf apparel, rainwear, skiwear, walking boot linings
Clean room garments, special military protective clothing, surgical garments, survival suits Source: Handbook of technical textiles, AR Horrocks and SC Anand.
But in many applications, waterproof breathable fabrics are required to possess other functional characteristics
In many applications, however, waterproof breathable fabrics are required to possess other functional characteristics—as well as waterproofness and breathability. Such characteristics include mechanical strength, abrasion resistance and durability to repeated washing.
INNOVATIONS IN WATERPROOF BREATHABLE MATERIALS
Aclimatise, developed by APT Fabrics, is claimed to be the “world’s first thermoregulating, waterproof, breathable and windproof fleece” fabric 12
APT FABRICS: ACLIMATISE Aclimatise is claimed by its developers, APT Fabrics, to be the “world’s first thermoregulating, waterproof, breathable and windproof fleece” fabric. APT Fabrics is a UK-based company which specialises in the development of technical waterproof breathable fabrics.
Woven linings tend to be less breathable than mesh linings.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
39
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
The fabric consists of an outer fabric treated with a DWR finish and a breathable polyurethane membrane attached to a moisture wicking and antistatic lining
Arkophob FFR is a fluorine-free finishing treatment, developed by Clariant, which provides fabrics with water repellency properties
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The fleece fabric consists of an outer fabric and a breathable polyurethane membrane to which a moisture wicking and antistatic lining has been attached. The outer surface of the fabric is treated with a durable water repellent (DWR) finish which prevents water from being absorbed into the fabric. CLARIANT: ARKOPHOB FFR Arkophob FFR is a fluorine-free finishing treatment which provides fabrics with water repellency properties. The treatment was developed by Clariant—a Switzerland based company which specialises in the research and development of speciality chemicals for a wide range of applications.
Its water repellency perfor- The company claims that the water repellency performance of mance is claimed to be bet- Arkophob FFR is better than that of equivalent fluorine-free products ter than equivalent products which are available on the market. When Arkophob FFR is applied to the surface of a fabric it forms a film
When Arkophob FFR is applied to the surface of a fabric it forms an even and highly durable film, and provides the fabric with a soft handle and pleasant touch.
The treated fabric has improved tear strength and abrasion resistance, and the treatment has no adverse impact on its breathability
In addition, the treated fabric has improved tear strength and better abrasion resistance than untreated fabric.
The treatment remains for more than 20 washes, a performance close to that of treatments made using C6 fluorochemicals
The treatment remains for more than 20 washes—a performance which is close to that of water repellent treatments made using C6 fluorochemicals and better than the performance of other fluorine-free products.
Columbia Sportswear’s Omni-Dry is based on a polyethylene membrane which is much thinner and lighter than PTFE membranes When it was introduced, it was claimed that it would “take down Gore-Tex”
40
At the same time, the treatment has no adverse impact on the breathability of the fabric to which it is applied.
COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR: OMNI-DRY Omni-Dry is a proprietary waterproof breathable technology introduced by Columbia Sportswear in 2011. The technology is based on a polyethylene membrane which is said to be much thinner and lighter in weight than polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) membranes. At the time of its introduction, Columbia Sportswear’s marketing material claimed that the product would “take down Gore-Tex and other dinosaurs in the industry that stopped trying a long time ago”.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard is an SBT emulsion finishing treatment which provides water repellent properties and softness
Waterproof breathable fabrics
DOW CORNING: DOW CORNING DWR-7000 SOFT HYDRO GUARD Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard is a silicon-based technology (SBT) emulsion finishing treatment which provides sportswear with water repellent properties and softness. The treatment was developed by Dow Corning, a USA-based provider of silicones and SBT for a number of industries.
The emulsion does not use fluorine and APEOs, and is therefore claimed to be more environmentally friendly than conventional water repellent treatments
The emulsion does not use fluorine and solvents of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs), and is therefore claimed to be friendlier to the environment than conventional water repellent treatments.
Tests show that the treatment remains durable after a garment treated with the emulsion has been laundered 30 times
Tests have shown that the water repellency provided by Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard remains durable after a garment treated with the emulsion has been laundered 30 times in a domestic washing machine. This is the same as, or better than, the durability provided by conventional fluorocarbon water repellent finishing systems.
The treatment is compatible with most textile auxiliaries, and does not need heat reactivation, additional performance extenders, softeners or lubricants to maintain its properties
Furthermore, Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard is compatible with, and maintains its stability in the presence of, most textile auxiliaries.
Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard was launched at the AATCC 2012 International Conference
Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard was launched at the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) 2012 International Conference held in Charlotte, North Carolina, USA, in March 2012.
According to Dow Corning, the silicones used in the product have no toxic side effects and do not negatively affect the environment.
Also, it does not need heat reactivation, additional performance extenders, softeners or lubricants for treated garments to maintain the properties provided by the treatment.
eVent DVL is a waterproof breathable material produced by GE
GE (GENERAL ELECTRIC): EVENT DVL eVent DVL (direct venting line) is a waterproof breathable material produced by the USA-based conglomerate GE (General Electric). The fabric forms part of the company’s eVent fabrics collection.
eVent fabrics were originally developed for use in industrial air filtration systems
eVent fabrics were originally developed for use in air filtration systems for gas turbines and other industrial applications. However, it was later discovered that they were effective as waterproof breathable materials which could be used in clothing.
eVent DVL waterproof fabric contains GE’s proprietary eVent DVL waterproof fabric contains a proprietary expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) hydrophobic microporous membrane. ePTFE membrane—
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
41
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
—which has individual ePTFE filaments surrounded with an oleophobic coating that protects the membrane from contaminants, rather than relying on a polyurethane film
The membrane has individual filaments of ePTFE, which are surrounded with an oleophobic coating. The coating protects the membrane from contaminants such as dirt, body oils, cosmetics and sunscreen lotion.
Moisture vapour underneath the membrane is vented through the membrane without first making that surface wet
Consequently, moisture vapour on the surface underneath the membrane is vented directly through the membrane without first making that surface wet.
This contrasts with the two-step process used by many other waterproof breathable technologies
This contrasts with the two-step process used by many other waterproof breathable technologies. In the case of the latter, moisture is transported to a polyurethane coating on the inside of the fabric. Once the moisture is absorbed by the coating, it is pushed through to the outside of the fabric in response to a build-up of heat on the inside of the fabric.
The membrane is created by coating each ePTFE fibril individually
The membrane is created by coating each fibril of the ePTFE material individually, leaving spaces between the fibrils for moisture vapour to escape.
A protective print is applied on top of the membrane
On top of the membrane, a protective print—which comprises a repeating web of outlined triangular shapes—is applied. This provides the membrane with a durable protective screen.
Unlike other waterproof breathable materials, the membrane does not rely on a polyurethane film to protect it from these contaminants.
The fabric’s breathability is based on direct venting technology, which enables moisture vapour to “vent” directly to the outside of the fabric.
The fabrics are suitable for eVent DVL fabrics are especially suitable for garments worn for light garments for light activities outdoor activities such as cycling and running. The ePTFE membranes used in these fabrics comply with the requirements of Oeko-Tex Standard 100
Barrier ECO, developed by HeiQ Materials, is a water repellent finish based on a fluorine-free technology which provides reliable water, oil and stain repellency The technology results in the creation of micro-sized particles on a fabric’s surface— 42
In October 2013 GE announced that the ePTFE membranes used in these fabrics had been shown to comply with the requirements of Oeko-Tex Standard 100, which certifies that the membranes are free from substances that are harmful to humans and the environment. HEIQ MATERIALS: BARRIER ECO Barrier ECO is a water repellent finish developed by HeiQ Materials, a Switzerland-based company which develops and manufactures innovative textile effects. The finish is based on a fluorine-free technology which offers reliable water, oil and stain repellency. In addition, it complies with bluesign, one of the world’s most rigorous textile production standards. The technology results in the creation of a three-dimensional (3D) structure composed of special micro-sized particles on the surface of a fabric.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
—which helps to minimise the contact area between water or oil and the fabric
Waterproof breathable fabrics
This structure helps to minimise the contact area between water or oil and the fabric and, in turn, prevents water, oil and stains from adhering to the fabric’s surface.
Barrier ECO provides good According to HeiQ Materials, Barrier ECO provides fabrics with good abrasion resistance and a abrasion resistance and a soft handle. soft handle HELLY HANSEN: HELLY TECH Helly Tech is a waterproof Helly Tech is the name of a proprietary waterproof breathable breathable polyurethane fabric which was introduced by Norway-based Helly Hansen fabric from Helly Hansen in 1984. Helly Tech fabrics are constructed with a thin membrane or with several thin polymer coatings
Helly Tech fabrics are constructed in two ways. ● One way is to construct the fabrics with a thin membrane which transports moisture. ● The other way is to apply several thin layers of polymer to the reverse side of the fabric.
Both are equally efficient at releasing moisture
Both systems are said to be equally efficient at releasing body moisture.
Micropores let the fabric breathe but keep water out
Micropores in the fabric allow the fabric to breathe without letting water molecules penetrate from the outside.
Helly Tech fabrics can withstand a hydrostatic head of 15 metres and have a breathability rating of 15,000 g/m2 over 24 hours
The company claims that Helly Tech fabrics can withstand a hydrostatic head of 15 metres (21.4 psi). In addition, they have a breathability rating of 15,000 g/m2 over a period of 24 hours.
Seams are sealed to ensure the garment is waterproof
In garments made from the fabric, all seams are sealed to ensure that the whole garment is waterproof.
There are three versions of Helly Tech fabrics
Helly Hansen offers three versions of Helly Tech fabrics, namely: ● Helly Tech Professional; ● Helly Tech Performance; and ● Helly Tech Protection.
Helly Tech Professional is a 3-layer fabric
Helly Tech Professional is a 3-layer fabric designed for garments worn by professional sailors, ski patrollers and mountain safety personnel.
Helly Tech Performance is a 2.5-layer fabric
Helly Tech Performance is a 2.5-layer fabric which is used in garments worn for activities such as skiing and mountain climbing.
Helly Tech Protection is a 2-layer fabric
Helly Tech Protection is a 2-layer fabric which is used in garments worn for activities carried out in wet, cold and windy weather.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
43
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Phobotex is the name of a range of fluorine-free finishing treatments from Huntsman Textile Effects which provide fabrics with the ability to repel water and everyday stains
Waterproof breathable fabrics
HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS: PHOBOTEX Phobotex is the name of a range of fluorine-free finishing treatments developed by Huntsman Textile Effects—a Singapore-based company which supplies chemicals and dyes for textile materials. Each of the treatments in the range is able to provide a wide range of fabrics with the ability to repel water and everyday stains, such as those caused by mud and grass.
The range includes a water-based finishing treatment which is effective for up to 30 washes
The range includes a water-based finishing treatment which remains effective for up to 30 washes at a temperature of 40°C. Moreover, Huntsman claims that the treatment provides the product to which it has been applied with a softer finish compared with conventional treatments which provide a similar level of performance.
All of the treatments in the range are considered to be environmentally friendly
All of the treatments in the range are considered to be more environmentally friendly than conventional treatments which provide a similar level of performance as they do not contain fluorine.
Also, they are suitable for use by signatory companies of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme
In addition, they are suitable for use by signatory companies of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme. The ZDHC programme provides participating companies with guidance as to how they can reduce the amounts of hazardous chemicals in their supply chains and products, with a view to eliminating them altogether by 2020.
Texapore is a polyurethane-based waterproof breathable technology from Jack Wolfskin
JACK WOLFSKIN: TEXAPORE Texapore is a polyurethane-based waterproof breathable technology developed by Germany-based Jack Wolfskin13. The latter is one of Europe’s leading suppliers of functional outdoor clothing.
There are over 40 different types of Texapore fabric
The company offers more than 40 different types of Texapore fabric, each of which has a specific level of waterproofness and breathability.
The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability
The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability. ● Four levels are based on a microporous coating which is bonded securely to an outer fabric. ● Another four levels are based on the use of pore-free membranes. ● The remaining two levels are based on a hybrid technology which involves the use of a combination of coatings and membranes.
13
44
See also “Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand”, starting on page 61 of this issue. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The level of waterproof breathability needed is determined by the outdoor activity for which the garment is intended to be worn
The level of waterproof breathability required for a garment made from Texapore fabric is determined by the outdoor activity for which the garment is intended to be worn. For alpine hiking jackets, for example, a triple-layered fabric construction with very high levels of waterproofness and breathability is used.
Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions
Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions, each of which is designed for a specific activity level: ● stretch; ● extra lightweight; and ● extra robust.
LOWE ALPINE: TRIPLEPOINT CERAMIC Triplepoint Ceramic is a Triplepoint Ceramic is a waterproof breathable coating technology waterproof breathable featured in garments designed by Lowe Alpine—a subsidiary of coating technology found in UK-based Equip Outdoors Technologies, which specialises in the Lowe Alpine garments supply of outdoor apparel and accessories. It contains ceramic particles which create a uniform matrix of nano-sized pores that provide a pathway for moisture vapour to escape
The coating differs from other waterproof breathable coatings in that it contains ceramic particles which create a uniform matrix of nanosized pores.
It is said to be waterproof, windproof and highly breathable
Triplepoint Ceramic is said to be waterproof and windproof as well as highly breathable.
MemBrain Strata fabric from Marmot consists of 2.5 layers and contains non-organic particles on the inside of a polyurethane laminate
These pores provide a pathway for moisture vapour to escape.
MARMOT: MEMBRAIN STRATA MemBrain Strata is a waterproof breathable fabric developed by the USA-based company Marmot, a producer of outdoor apparel and equipment. The fabric consists of 2.5 layers and contains non-organic particles on the inside of a polyurethane laminate.
It is more breathable, is MemBrain Strata is said to be more breathable, to be softer and softer and offers greater to offer greater stretch than other 2.5-layer coated fabrics on the stretch than other 2.5-layer market. coated fabrics MARMOT: NANOPRO NanoPro, from Marmot, is NanoPro is a waterproof breathable fabric introduced by Marmot. a waterproof breathable fabric which allows The fabric is said to allow moisture vapour to evaporate more moisture vapour to quickly without compromising waterproof performance or wind evaporate more quickly protection. The coating in NanoPro is 43% more breathable than previous fabrics it has used © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
According to the company, the coating used in NanoPro is 43% more breathable than previous fabrics it has used in its range of outdoor jackets. 45
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Jackets made from the fabric Jackets made from the new fabric will form part of the company’s will feature in the company’s 2014 outdoor clothing collection. 2014 clothing collection MARMOT: PRECIP PreCip is a lightweight and PreCip is said to be Marmot’s lightest and most compressible compressible fabric waterproof breathable fabric. Its barrier technology uses microporous polyurethane with silicon dioxide particles that allow tiny water vapour molecules such as perspiration to pass through, but prevent the passage of larger molecules such as rain droplets
The key to PreCip is a microporous polyurethane barrier material which contains silicon dioxide particles. These particles create many small and consistent holes which allow tiny water vapour molecules to pass through the material. Larger liquid molecules, however, are not able to pass through the material. As a result, rain can not penetrate the fabric but perspiration vapour is able to penetrate and move to the outside of the fabric.
Pertex is a brand of breathable fabrics for sleeping bags and outdoor apparel
MITSUI & CO: PERTEX Pertex is a brand of waterproof breathable fabrics for sleeping bags and outdoor apparel. The brand is owned by Japan-based Mitsui & Co.
Pertex Shield+ has very high waterproof and breathability ratings
Pertex Shield+ is a fabric with very high waterproof and breathability ratings. It is used to make lightweight garments for applications such as alpine climbing, cycling and skiing.
Pertex Endurance is a lightweight, breathable nylon fabric with a microporous coating and a membrane which facilitates breathability
Pertex Endurance is a lightweight, breathable nylon fabric with a microporous coating. The fabric is used mainly for sleeping bags.
The outer surface of the fabric has a DWR finish
The outer surface of the fabric has a DWR finish which prevents water from being absorbed into the nylon.
The Pertex Endurance system allows water vapour produced by the body to escape into the atmosphere, but prevents rain or snow from penetrating the fabric
The Pertex Endurance system allows water vapour produced by the body to escape into the atmosphere. At the same time, it prevents light rain or snow from penetrating the fabric.
Pertex Equilibrium has a unique denier gradient structure which allows moisture to be transported to the outside of the fabric where it evaporates
Pertex Equilibrium has a unique denier gradient structure. Yarns comprising larger filaments are placed on the inside of the fabric while yarns comprising smaller filaments are placed on the outside of the fabric.
46
The fabric has a membrane containing many hydrophilic molecules which facilitate breathability. The molecules create pathways for the moisture to escape by means of diffusion into the atmosphere.
According to the company, Pertex Endurance can withstand water at a pressure equivalent to a hydrostatic head of more than 1,000 mm (1.4 psi).
This structure allows moisture to move from the larger filaments to the smaller filaments by capillary action, and then to the outside of the fabric where it evaporates. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Pertex Equilibrium is also waterproof
Pertex Equilibrium is also waterproof, and protects against light rain and snow.
Pertex Eco is a series of environmentally friendly fabrics made from yarns which are produced from recycled polyester
Pertex Eco is a series of environmentally friendly fabrics made from yarns which are produced from recycled polyester.
Dry.Q waterproof breathable technologies from Mountain Hardwear result in fabrics which are highly air permeable and so perspiration does not accumulate inside the fabric
The series is not a technology in its own right but is available across the entire Pertex range of fabrics—including Pertex Endurance and Pertex Equilibrium. MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR: DRY.Q Dry.Q is a family of waterproof breathable technologies introduced in 2010 by USA-based Mountain Hardwear, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Columbia Sportswear. Fabric which incorporates Dry.Q technology is said to be highly air permeable and therefore perspiration does not accumulate inside the fabric.
Humidity is not needed to trigger their breathability
Unlike traditional waterproof breathable fabrics, a fabric incorporating Dry.Q does not require humidity to trigger its breathability.
The fabric is compared to a bathtub with the plug pulled out whereas a traditional breathable fabric is likened to a bathtub with the plug in
The company compares the fabric to a bathtub with the drain plug pulled out. Once water is poured in, it drains out.
EPIC is a water resistant, windproof, breathable fabric from Nextec
A traditional waterproof breathable fabric, by contrast, is likened to a bathtub with the drain plug in. When water is poured in, the water level will continue to rise until it reaches the side drain from which it can escape. NEXTEC APPLICATIONS: EPIC EPIC (Encapsulated Protection Inside Clothing) is a water resistant, windproof and breathable fabric. It was introduced by the USA-based company Nextec Applications in 1998.
Polymers are wrapped around individual fibre bundles
Through the company’s patented encapsulation process, a viscous mixture of silicone-based polymers is placed on to a fabric. Energy is then applied to the polymers, and the latter work their way into the fabric. As they do so, they wrap around individual fibre bundles.
All but the smallest spaces between the fibres are filled, to create a weatherproof barrier which still allows water vapour to escape
In this way, all but the smallest spaces between the fibres in the weave are filled, and this creates a barrier which is impervious to rain, snow and wind.
Water resistance in EPIC materials is created inside the fabric rather than outside and is maintained after repeated washings
Water resistance in EPIC materials is created inside the fabric rather than outside. Consequently, EPIC’s water resistant properties are maintained after repeated washings. Many competing fabrics, by contrast, require films, coatings or DWR treatments to provide protection against the passage of water from outside.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
However, the spaces between the encapsulated fibres are large enough to allow water vapour to escape.
47
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
One of EPIC’s key benefits is its low water absorption—
According to Nextec Applications, one of EPIC’s key benefits is its low water absorption. This stems from the fact that the polymers take up space where water may otherwise seep in. As a result, little water is absorbed into the face of the fabric.
—in contrast to durable water repellent treated fabrics
In DWR-treated fabrics, by contrast, the face of the fabric can become soaked once the treatment has worn off, thereby adding weight to a garment.
The encapsulation process in EPIC adds durability to the base fabric
The encapsulation process used in the manufacture of EPIC does not affect the handle of the base fabric. Moreover, it can add strength to the fabric and improve its abrasion resistance and tear strength.
EPIC protects against the elements in all but the most severe conditions
EPIC is said to provide protection against the elements in all but the most severe conditions, such as torrential rain.
Storm-FIT is a waterproof breathable fabric developed by Nike
The fabric utilises ultrafine microfibre polyester and a breathable membrane and is designed for athletes exposed to wet, windy and cold conditions
H2No from Patagonia is a standard for waterproof breathable fabrics which ensures a high level of performance over the long term
NIKE: STORM-FIT Storm-FIT is a waterproof breathable fabric developed by USA-based Nike. The product forms part of Nike’s FIT fabrics range, which aims to address the different requirements of fabrics needed for different activities in all conditions. The fabric utilises ultrafine microfibre polyester and is combined with a breathable membrane. It repels moisture on the outside and transports sweat to the exterior of the fabric. The fabric is designed for athletes who are exposed to wet, windy and cold conditions. PATAGONIA: H2NO H2No is a standard for waterproof breathable fabrics developed by Patagonia, a USA-based supplier of rugged outdoor apparel. The standard is said to ensure a high level of performance over the long term and, in order to meet the standard, fabrics must undergo rigorous testing.
Patagonia uses a wet flex test called Killer Wash
To test the waterproofness of a fabric, Patagonia uses a proprietary wet flex test called Killer Wash which simulates years of use in drenching conditions.
Fabrics must be able to withstand a water pressure of 20,000 mm before and 10,000 mm after the test
In order to meet the H2No standard, fabrics must be capable of withstanding a water pressure of 20,000 mm before, and 10,000 mm after, its Killer Wash test if they are to be deemed waterproof.
ion-mask is a water repellent treatment commercialised by P2i
48
P2I: ION-MASK ion-mask is a water repellent treatment commercialised by P2i—a UK-based company founded in January 2004 as a spin-off from the Defence Science and Technology Laboratory (DSTL), the UK Ministry of Defence’s (MoD’s) principal scientific research agency. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
It is applied by means of an ionised gas or “plasma”
ion-mask is applied by means of an ionised gas or “plasma”. It works at the molecular level by altering the surface energy of an object in order to change the way it interacts with liquid.
When applied to an item of footwear, it allows the foot to breathe and prevents water from seeping through the sides of the item as the water merely bounces off the surface
When applied to an item of footwear, ion-mask allows the foot to breathe and prevents water from seeping through the sides of the item—the water merely bounces off the surface.
ion-mask does not compromise any existing performance properties, it is invisible and it does not add weight, in contrast to waterproof breathable membranes
ion-mask does not compromise any of the existing performance properties of the item or change the look or feel of the item.
Polartec NeoShell is claimed to be “the most breathable waterproof fabric” The fabric has stretch properties and is composed of a hydrophobic microporous polyurethane membrane which is sandwiched between an outer fabric and an inner lining
The treatment is applied as a protective layer over the entire surface of the item, including the inside as well as the outside. Furthermore, it is applied around and between the fibres from which the item is made.
The treatment itself is invisible and does not add weight to the item. By contrast, waterproof breathable membranes which act as a physical barrier against water can add weight and bulk to an object. POLARTEC: POLARTEC NEOSHELL Polartec NeoShell is claimed to be “the most breathable waterproof fabric available on the market today”. It was developed by Polartec, a USA-based company best known for its fleece fabrics. The fabric has stretch properties and is composed of a hydrophobic microporous polyurethane membrane which is sandwiched between an outer fabric and an inner lining, as follows. ● The outer fabric is abrasion resistant and is treated with a DWR. ● The membrane has a high level of air permeability and is said to “dramatically accelerate moisture vapour transfer”. ● The inner lining has moisture wicking properties and is soft against the skin.
The membrane in the Polartec NeoShell fabric only requires low heat and moisture pressure levels for moisture vapour transfer to be activated
According to Polartec, conventional hard shell fabric (see page 28) which has a breathable membrane requires heat and moisture to generate enough pressure before the membrane begins to facilitate moisture vapour transfer. The membrane in the Polartec NeoShell fabric, however, only requires extremely low levels of heat and moisture pressure for airflow to be activated.
As a result, Polartec NeoShell is said to keep the wearer drier than conventional hard shell fabrics
As a result, garments made from Polartec NeoShell are said to keep the wearer drier and more comfortable during activities involving high exertion than garments constructed from conventional hard shell fabrics.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
49
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Polartec NeoShell is used by several major brands
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Polartec NeoShell is used by several major performance apparel brands, including Mammut, Marmot, Rab and The North Face. Figure 3 Illustration of Polartec NeoShell
Source: Rab
Ecorepel is a biomimicry textile finish from Schoeller Technologies which repels water from the surface of a fabric to which it is applied
SCHOELLER TECHNOLOGIES: ECOREPEL Ecorepel is a biomimicry14 textile finish which is designed to repel water from the surface of a fabric to which it is applied. It was developed by the Switzerland-based company Schoeller Technologies.
Ecorepel imitates the natural protection which oily secretions provide to the feathers of water fowl
Developers of the finish were inspired by the oily secretions of water fowl which act as a natural repellent and allow feathers to stay dry after a bird dives into water. Ecorepel imitates this natural protection, and in doing so it provides textiles treated with the finish with water repellent properties.
The finish comprises long paraffin chains which wrap themselves around individual fibres, filaments or yarns to form a very fine film
The finish comprises long paraffin chains which wrap themselves around individual fibres, filaments or yarns to form a very fine film.
14
50
This reduces surface tension on the textile, allowing water droplets to run off the surface.
See also “Fast track: Biomimicry”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 6, 3rd quarter 2003. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
These chains are biodegradable and free from fluorocarbons
The paraffin chains which make up the finish are biodegradable and do not contain any fluorocarbons. Also, ecorepel is odourless.
The finish is highly breathable and highly functional
The finish is highly breathable and highly functional, and allows fabrics to remain soft to the touch.
Also, ecorepel complies with the requirements of Oeko-Tex Standard 100
In addition, ecorepel has been certified as complying with the requirements of Oeko-Tex Standard 100, which confirms that a product is free from harmful substances. It also complies with the bluesign standard.
Ecorepel was exhibited at ISPO Munich in 2012
Ecorepel was exhibited for the first time at ISPO Munich—a sportswear and equipment trade show—in early 2012. Figure 4 Illustration of fabric treated with ecorepel
Source: Schoeller
Sympatex is a non-porous hydrophilic polyester membrane which is 100% waterproof, 100% windproof and highly breathable
SYMPATEX TECHNOLOGIES: SYMPATEX Sympatex is a waterproof breathable membrane produced by Sympatex Technologies, a Germany-based supplier of high-tech functional materials for clothing, footwear and accessories. The company claims that Sympatex is 100% waterproof, 100% windproof and highly breathable.
It is made from a copolymer of polyester and polyether
The membrane has a non-porous structure15, and is made from a copolymer containing 70% polyester and 30% polyether.
Billions of hydrophilic molecules expel moisture quickly by means of wicking
The membrane consists of billions of hydrophilic molecules which expel moisture quickly from the inside to the outside by means of wicking. It has a thickness of just 5 microns.
15
For a description of non-porous coatings and membranes, see page 33.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
51
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The fabric is “extremely breathable” according to the Hohenstein Institute
The water vapour permeability rate of the membrane is less than 1.5 RET (resistance to evaporative transfer) and therefore the fabric is classed as being “very breathable” by the Germany-based Hohenstein Institute (see Table 4 on page 32).
Sympatex offers four main types of laminate—
Sympatex Technologies offers four main types of laminate containing the Sympatex membrane, namely:
—a 2-layer laminate—
● a 2-layer laminate in which the membrane is bonded directly to the back of an outer fabric;
—a 3-layer laminate—
● a 3-layer laminate in which the membrane is sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining;
—an insert laminate—
● an insert laminate, in which the membrane is bonded to a nonwoven or a knitted fabric which hangs loosely between the outer fabric and the lining; and
—and a lining laminate
● a lining laminate, in which the membrane is bonded to the back of the lining.
The company offers three types of laminate technology
The company offers three types of laminate technology which provide enhanced waterproof and breathable properties, namely: ● Sympatex, which is incorporated into garments for use in all weather conditions; ● Sympatex Performance, which is incorporated into garments intended for use in snow, active sports and high performance sports; and ● Sympatex Professional, which is incorporated into work and safety garments that are designed to provide protection in harsh conditions.
Sympatex and Sympatex Performance laminates are 100% waterproof and 100% windproof, and the seams of garments made from them are also 100% waterproof
Sympatex and Sympatex Performance laminates are claimed to be 100% waterproof and 100% windproof. They are said to offer optimum breathability, and to allow body moisture to be quickly transported away from the skin.
Sympatex Professional laminates are durable, breathable, waterproof and windproof—
Sympatex Professional laminates offer durability, breathability, waterproofness and windproofness. Furthermore, the technology can be used to create a microclimate in order to achieve better temperature regulation while maintaining performance.
52
Furthermore, the seams of garments incorporating either of the two laminates are sealed so that they are 100% waterproof.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
—and can provide temperature regulation in extreme conditions
Waterproof breathable fabrics
According to tests carried out in Sympatex’s laboratories and independent tests carried out by the Hohenstein Institute, Sympatex Professional laminates can withstand a hydrostatic head (see page 29) of up to 25,000 mm (35.6 psi). In addition, it can provide temperature regulation in extreme conditions.
The company offers several The company offers several variations of its original Sympatex variations of its original membrane, including: Sympatex membrane ● Sympatex Reflexion; ● Sympatex HigH2Out; and ● Sympatex Phaseable. Sympatex Reflexion is coated with an ultra-thin layer of aluminium to reflect body heat and protect against electromagnetic radiation
Laminates incorporating Sympatex Reflexion achieve high levels of heat reflection as the membrane is coated with an ultra-thin layer of aluminium.
Sympatex HigH2Out absorbs perspiration quickly and disperses it to a wide area so it is transported before condensing on the skin
The Sympatex HigH2Out membrane system combines a hydrophilic membrane with an extremely absorbent layer.
It increases breathability by 120% compared with standard laminates
According to the company, Sympatex HigH2Out laminates increase breathability by 120% compared with standard laminates.
Sympatex Phaseable 2.5-layer laminate offers lightness and stability, and consists of an outer fabric, a membrane with small heat-regulating foam dots which contain air to provide an insulating layer and a thin polyurethane coating
Sympatex Phaseable is a 2.5-layer laminate. It combines the lightness of a 2-layer laminate with the stability of a 3-layer laminate. The system consists of:
As a result, according to Sympatex, such materials are able to reflect up to 75% of body heat and protect against 97% of all electromagnetic radiation.
The absorbent layer is capable of absorbing perspiration within seconds and dispersing it over a wide area. As a result, moisture is transported to the outside more quickly and more effectively before it is able to condense on the skin.
● an outer fabric; ● a Sympatex membrane to which small, heat-regulating foam dots have been attached; and ● a thin polyurethane coating. During low activity levels, air between the foam dots serves as an insulation layer.
Perspiration causes the When the wearer is active and the body produces perspiration, the fabric to expand, which fabric becomes wet and expands. reduces the insulation layer and increases breathability Such expansion reduces the insulation layer of air and, at the same time, it increases breathability. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
53
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
A new version of 2.5-layer Phaseable has been introduced comprising an outer material, a hydrophilic membrane and a structure of foam dots
In July 2013 Sympatex introduced a new version of its Phaseable lightweight laminate fabric. The fabric has 2.5-layers, comprising:
During inactivity, the dots create an insulating layer of air between the skin and the laminate but the membrane swells when perspiration builds up and the dots disappear so that the laminate is able to remove more moisture
When the wearer of a garment made from Phaseable is inactive, these dots help create an insulating layer of air between the skin and the laminate.
Bionic-Finish Eco, developed by Sympatex Technologies and Rudolf Group, is a fluorine-free, environmentally friendly DWR treatment for fabrics Garments treated with it repel water and dirt
● outer material; ● a hydrophilic membrane; and ● a structure of foam dots which are in contact with the wearer’s skin at discrete points.
When the wearer exercises, perspiration builds up and causes the membrane to swell and the dots to disappear. As a result, the laminate comes into greater contact with the skin and is therefore able to remove more moisture. SYMPATEX TECHNOLOGIES AND RUDOLF GROUP: BIONIC-FINISH ECO Sympatex Technologies and Rudolf Group, a Germany-based specialist in textile finishes, were among the first companies to develop a fluorine-free DWR treatment for fabrics. The treatment, called Bionic-Finish Eco, is said to be environmentally friendly and can therefore be applied to fabrics which are used in the manufacture of sustainable functional clothing or garments. Garments treated with Bionic-Finish Eco repel water and dirt, and the treatment is highly durable and resistant to wear.
It does not contain paraffin Also, the garments retain their breathability because the treatment does wax and so the garments not contain paraffin wax—an impermeable substance which is used to remain breathable make fabrics waterproof. The garments do not need to be ironed after laundering to maintain the effectiveness of the treatment, unlike conventional waterproof finishes and DWR finishes Bionic-Finish Eco is composed of star-shaped hyper-branched polymers whose development was influenced by the structure of branches at the tops of trees
54
In addition, the garments do not need to be ironed after laundering in order to maintain the effectiveness of the treatment at a high level. Conventional waterproof finishes, by contrast, need to be reapplied and fixed and activated with heat—either by ironing or tumble drying. Similarly, in the case of DWR finishes, a garment treated with the finish needs to be washed and the finish heat-activated either by tumble drying or ironing. Bionic-Finish Eco is composed of star-shaped hyper-branched polymers whose development was influenced by the structure of the branches at the tops of trees. Researchers from the two companies noted that this structure provides the trees with a larger surface area for their foliage to grow on. The structure also provides for greater density of the foliage within the treetop. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
The star-shaped hyper-branched polymers improve the water repellency of Bionic-Finish Eco significantly
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The researchers adopted this idea and adapted the polymers from which Bionic-Finish Eco is made so that they have a similar structure. They claim that the star-shaped hyper-branched polymers improve the water repellency of Bionic-Finish Eco significantly.
HydrECO Concept water repellent finishes from Tanatex are free from fluorine
TANATEX CHEMICALS: HYDRECO CONCEPT HydrECO Concept is the name of a range of water repellent finishes which are free from fluorine, and were developed by the Netherlandsbased company Tanatex Chemicals—one of the world’s leading producers of textile processing chemicals.
They include finishes for fabrics made from synthetic and cotton fibres
The range includes a finish for fabrics made from synthetic fibres, and a finish for fabrics made from cotton fibres or blends of cotton and synthetic fibres.
The finishes are said to provide a high degree of water repellency
Both finishes are said to provide fabrics with a high degree of water repellency as well as a pleasant handle.
HyVent waterproof breathable fabrics from The North Face have a thin polyurethane coating across the back of the face fabric
THE NORTH FACE: HYVENT HyVent is a family of waterproof breathable fabrics developed by The North Face, a USA-based company which supplies outdoor clothing and equipment. The fabrics in the range incorporate a polyurethane coating which is applied as a thin, even layer across the back of the face fabric (see page 35).
The HyVent family comprises five different fabrics
The HyVent family of fabrics comprises:
HyVent Alpha provides a high level of waterproofness and is therefore suitable for garments worn in extreme weather conditions
HyVent Alpha is premium fabric which is comparable with Gore-Tex.
HyVent 2L comprises an abrasion resistant layer and a polyurethane coated layer, while HyVent 3L also has an inner layer which channels perspiration to the polyurethane coating
HyVent 2L is a 2-layer fabric comprising an abrasion resistant outer layer and a polyurethane coated inner layer.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
● ● ● ● ●
HyVent HyVent HyVent HyVent HyVent
Alpha; 2L; 3L; DT; and DT EC.
It provides a high level of waterproofness as it can withstand a water pressure of 75 psi and is therefore designed for garments worn in extreme weather conditions.
HyVent 3L is a 3-layer fabric made from an abrasion resistant outer layer, a polyurethane coated middle layer and an inner layer which channels perspiration moisture to the micropores of the polyurethane coating.
55
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
HyVent DT is a waterproof breathable 2.5-layer fabric with a raised scrim which is lighter in weight than a liner or laminated inner layer and holds the waterproof barrier away from the skin for greater air circulation
HyVent DT is a waterproof breathable 2.5-layer fabric.
HyVent DT EC is an environmentally friendly version of HyVent DT as it contains castor oil derived from beans
HyVent DT EC is a more environmentally friendly version of HyVent DT as it contains castor oil derived from beans.
Entrant fabric from Toray Industries has a waterproof breathable microporous coating with pores in a honeycomb-like structure
DT stands for Dry Touch and refers to a raised scrim which is lighter in weight than a liner or laminated inner layer. The scrim physically holds the fabric’s waterproof barrier away from the skin, thereby increasing air circulation and enhancing comfort.
As a result, it uses a smaller amount of materials derived from petroleum. TORAY INDUSTRIES: ENTRANT Entrant fabric, from the Japanese company Toray Industries, utilises a waterproof breathable microporous coating which contains pores measuring 2-3 microns in diameter. The pores form a honeycomb-like structure.
Vapour can pass through Because of the honeycomb structure and the size of the pores, rain and but rain and water droplets water droplets are too large to penetrate the coating. However, vapour are too big to penetrate is able to pass through effectively. The exterior of Entrant is coated with a DWR finish
As well as having a waterproof breathable microporous coating, the exterior of Entrant fabric is coated with a DWR finish.
Toray has developed variants of Entrant
Toray Industries has developed variants of Entrant which are tailormade for specific applications.
Toray is one of the world’s leaders in waterproof breathable technology
Toray Industries is one of the world’s leaders in waterproof breathable technology. The company made its first attempt to produce fabrics which were both waterproof and permeable to moisture in 1979.
Its products provide different levels of waterproofness and breathability
Today, the company produces a wide range of products in the waterproof breathable category. Each product provides a different level of waterproofness and breathability.
The Gore-Tex brand, whose trademarked promise is “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry”, has become synonymous with waterproof protection
56
W L GORE & ASSOCIATES: GORE-TEX The Gore-Tex brand, whose trademarked promise is “Guaranteed to Keep You Dry”, represents an industry benchmark. The brand name Gore-Tex has become synonymous with waterproof protection to the point where it is used by some as a generic term—in the same way that Lycra has become a generic term for stretch fabrics for performance apparel.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Gore-Tex fabrics are formed by laminating a Gore-Tex membrane to a textile
Gore-Tex fabrics are formed by laminating a Gore-Tex membrane to a textile. The membrane is made from an expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) microporous polymeric film which has around 1.4 bn pores per cm2. Each pore is one 20,000th of the size of a water droplet, but is 700 times as large as a molecule of water vapour. As a result, water droplets can not penetrate the membrane, but moisture vapour can easily escape.
The membrane repels oily substances which might block pores and compromise breathability
The ePTFE membrane also contains an oleophobic substance which prevents contamination of the structure from oily substances. Without the oleophobic additive, such substances could block the pores of the membrane and compromise breathability.
The membrane technology used in Gore-Tex fabric is different from technologies used in competing fabrics
The membrane technology used in Gore-Tex fabric is different from technologies used in competing fabrics. The latter are typically based on polyurethane which can degrade when exposed to cold weather, flexing and chemicals.
Gore-Tex withstands a range In addition to withstanding such degradation, Gore-Tex is not damaged of potentially harmful by salt water, bleach, detergents, chemicals used in dry cleaning or substances and UV radiation exposure to UV radiation. W L Gore & Associates has launched a new generation of fabrics
W L Gore & Associates has been trying to maintain its stronghold in the waterproof breathable category of outdoor wear by launching a new generation of fabrics. These include: ● ● ● ● ● ●
Gore-Tex Gore-Tex Gore-Tex Gore-Tex Gore-Tex Gore-Tex
Performance Shell; Paclite Shell; Soft Shell; Pro Shell; Pro; and Active Shell.
Gore-Tex Performance Shell is made in 2-layer and 3-layer versions, and Gore-Seam tape technology is used to make all seams waterproof
Gore-Tex Performance Shell is made in 2-layer and 3-layer versions. Both versions have face textiles which are soft and offer high performance. The 3-layer version also has a special lining.
Gore-Tex Paclite Shell, which was the world’s first waterproof breathable 2.5-layer fabric, is lightweight and compact
Gore-Tex Paclite Shell, as its name suggests, is lightweight and compact, and can be easily packed away into a small bag.
In addition, a special Gore-Seam tape technology16 is used to ensure that all seams are 100% waterproof.
It was introduced in the mid-1990s as the world’s first waterproof breathable 2.5-layer fabric.
16
Gore-Seam tape technology uses seam tape to seal tiny holes created by sewing machine needles when Gore-Tex fabric is made into garments. W L Gore & Associates claims that this method ensures that all seams are 100% waterproof. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
57
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
The outer face is made from polyester or nylon
The outer face of the fabric is made from high performance polyester or nylon.
The membrane is covered by a protective layer
The membrane is covered by a protective layer made from an oleophobic substance and carbon.
Gore-Tex Soft Shell is a 3-layer fabric with a lining made from a soft fleecelike material
Gore-Tex Soft Shell is a 3-layer fabric, constructed with an outer face, a membrane and a lining. The outer face is made from a soft high performance fabric while the lining is made from a soft fleece-like material. The fabric is durably waterproof17, windproof and breathable.
Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric is abrasion resistant, waterproof and breathable, and is available in 2-layer or 3-layer form
Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric is tear resistant and abrasion resistant, and garments made from the fabric are said to be tough as well as waterproof and breathable. The fabric is available in either 2-layer form or 3-layer form.
The 2-layer construction has The 2-layer construction has a Gore-Tex membrane laminated to the a Gore-Tex membrane inside of the outer material. whose inner face is protected by a separate lining The inner face of the membrane is protected by a separate lining. There is also a 2-layer insulated construction with a heat insulation layer
There is also a 2-layer insulated construction in which a heat insulation layer is suspended freely between the 2-layer laminate and the separate inside lining.
In the 3-layer version, an inner lining is bonded to the Gore-Tex membrane
In the case of the 3-layer construction, a Gore-Tex membrane is bonded to a tough outer material as well as to a specially developed robust inner lining.
Gore-Seam tape is used to ensure that all seams are 100% waterproof
Again, Gore-Seam tape technology is used in garments made from Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric to ensure that all seams are 100% waterproof.
Gore-Tex Pro fabric is produced using a multilayer ePTFE membrane with more than 1.4 bn pores per cm2 which does not allow water droplets to penetrate but allows moisture vapour to escape easily
Gore-Tex Pro is described as “a technological leap forward in rugged, breathable, waterproof protection”. The fabric, which took more than four years to develop, is produced using a multilayer membrane made from 100% ePTFE. The membrane contains more than 1.4 bn microscopic pores per cm2 of fabric which are approximately 20,000 times smaller than a drop of water but 700 times bigger than a molecule of moisture vapour. As a result, water droplets can not penetrate the membrane but moisture can escape easily.
17
W L Gore & Associates defines durable waterproofness as the ability of a fabric to keep water out over prolonged periods in harsh conditions and demanding applications. 58
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
Also, the ePTFE structure is oleophobic
Also, the ePTFE structure is oleophobic and creates a physical barrier against contaminating substances such as oils, cosmetics and food substances.
Gore-Tex Pro is said to be 10-28% more breathable than Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric
Gore-Tex Pro is an improved version of the company’s Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric. It is said to be 10-28% more breathable than previous versions of Gore-Tex Pro Shell and to be more comfortable as a result.
W L Gore & Associates recommends that the yarns used to weave the outer fabric should have deniers ranging between 40 and 200
It has a lightweight outer fabric which provides a greater level of breathability than a densely woven outer fabric. The level of breathability achieved depends on the denier of the yarns used to weave the outer fabric to which the multilayer membrane is laminated. W L Gore & Associates recommends that the yarns used to weave the outer fabric should have deniers ranging between 40 and 200.
Gore-Tex Pro is also highly durable as the inner side of the membrane is covered with Gore Micro Grid Backer fabric which is resistant to tearing and ripping
Gore-Tex Pro is also highly durable. The inner side of the membrane is covered with Gore Micro Grid Backer fabric which is resistant to tearing and ripping. The fabric is woven using special reinforcing techniques, whereby the yarns are interwoven at regular intervals in a cross-hatch pattern. Figure 5 Gore-Tex Pro
Source: W L Gore & Associates
Gore-Tex Active Shell comprises a lining, a high performance textile and a thin, lightweight membrane
Gore-Tex Active Shell fabric has three layers: a lining, a high performance textile and a membrane. The company claims that the membrane is lighter and thinner than membranes used in earlier Gore-Tex shell fabrics.
It is made using a new lamination technology which provides it with a high level of breathability
The laminate is manufactured using a new lamination technology which provides it with a high level of breathability. In addition, it has moisture management properties, and is durable, waterproof and windproof.
Garments made from the fabric have good moisture wicking properties
Garments made from the fabric are said to be able to wick moisture away from the skin quickly, thus helping the wearer to stay dry and comfortable during exercise.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
59
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Waterproof breathable fabrics
OUTLOOK Significant innovations have enhanced the wear comfort of waterproof breathable fabrics for outdoor enthusiasts although the latter continue to express dissatisfaction
Significant innovations in waterproof breathable fabrics have played a key role in enhancing the wear comfort of outdoor enthusiasts.
New fabrics such as Polartec NeoShell and Dry.Q claim to fulfil demands for greater breathability
Suppliers of outdoor wear have been quick to address this issue—to their credit—and new fabrics such as Polartec’s Polartec NeoShell and Mountain Hardwear’s Dry.Q claim to fulfil demands for greater breathability.
These fabrics may able to loosen the grip that GoreTex has on the market
These “ultra-breathable” fabrics also have the potential to loosen the iron grip that Gore-Tex has had on the high performance outdoor apparel market.
The pace of innovation is set to increase as manufacturers aim to boost the breathability of their products
The pace of innovation in this market is set to increase as fabric manufacturers scramble to boost the breathability ratings of their products without compromising on existing functional characteristics such as waterproofness and durability.
Innovation will also be driven by growing demand for environmentally friendly products offering high levels of performance and durability
Innovation will also be driven by growing demand for fluorine-free alternatives to conventional waterproof breathable technologies.
60
Nonetheless, many of these enthusiasts continue to express dissatisfaction with the performance of these fabrics—especially with regard to breathability.
A key challenge will be to develop environmentally friendly products which offer a high level of performance and durability.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand SUMMARY Jack Wolfskin, established in 1981, is a leading Germany-based supplier of functional outdoor clothing, footwear and equipment. Over the years, the company has built up a vast distribution network and today its products are sold in more than 800 franchise stores and in over 4,000 other points of sale across Europe and Asia. The Jack Wolfskin brand has enjoyed growing popularity among outdoor enthusiasts and, as a result, the company’s sales have grown at highly creditable rates over the past ten years. Not surprisingly, the company has attracted the attention of several private equity firms, and in 2011 it was purchased by Blackstone Group—one of the largest of these firms—as the latter saw the company’s potential for future growth. The key to this growth lies in international expansion. This is already well under way, as is evidenced by the company’s penetration into the South American market and franchise negotiations in more established markets in Europe and Asia. It is noteworthy that the company is aiming to achieve its expansion goals while simultaneously following a rigorous corporate social responsibility (CSR) agenda—which involves the elimination and replacement of chemicals routinely used by makers of outdoor apparel, including fluorocarbons for waterproof breathable garments. In meeting this agenda, the company will no doubt have to overhaul its current supply chain as it develops alternative production methods which are more environmentally friendly—and this is likely to result in higher costs. Nonetheless, the company is cautiously optimistic about its financial prospects, not least because it enjoys a solid position in a market which has good potential for growth.
INTRODUCTION Jack Wolfskin is one of Europe’s leading suppliers of functional outdoor clothing, footwear and equipment, and is the largest franchiser in the specialist sports retail market in Germany
Jack Wolfskin1, based in Idstein, Germany—some 50 km north-west of Frankfurt—employs around 700 workers, and is one of Europe’s leading suppliers of functional outdoor clothing, footwear and equipment. It is also the largest franchiser in the specialist sports retail market in Germany. The company’s overriding goal is to encourage as many people as possible to lead an active life outdoors.
1
The name Jack Wolfskin was inspired partly by The Call of the Wild, a novel by Jack London published in 1903, and partly by the howling of wolves which the company’s employees imagined could be heard in the distance from campfires in the Canadian wilderness.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
61
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Jack Wolfskin opened its first store in Germany in 1993 and quickly became a favourite outdoor brand
Jack Wolfskin opened its first store in Heidelberg in Germany in 1993. Thereafter, it quickly became a favourite outdoor brand in Germany as its high quality products, iconic paw print logo and motto—“At Home Outdoors”—struck a chord with alpine climbers, hikers, skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts.
The Jack Wolfskin brand is associated with products which are functional, durable and innovatively designed
The Jack Wolfskin brand is associated with products which are functional, durable and innovatively designed. These attributes have enabled the company to command premium prices and attract a loyal customer base. They have also helped it to compete successfully against its two main rivals, The North Face and Columbia Sportswear.
COMPANY DEVELOPMENT Jack Wolfskin was established in 1981
Jack Wolfskin is a relatively young company, having been established in 1981.
In 1991 the company was sold to Johnson Outdoors
In 1991, just ten years after its establishment, the company was sold to Johnson Outdoors—a leading provider of outdoor recreation products based in the USA.
In 2002 it was sold to Bain Capital for Euro42 mn and in 2005 it was sold to two investors for Euro 93 mn
In 2002 Johnson Outdoors sold Jack Wolfskin to Bain Capital, a USA-based private equity firm, for Euro42 mn (US$40 mn).
In 2011 these two investors sold it to Blackstone Group in a deal thought to be worth Euro700 mn
In 2011 these two investors sold Jack Wolfskin to USA-based Blackstone Group, one of the world’s largest private equity firms, in a deal which industry analysts believe was worth Euro700 mn—more than 16 times the amount paid by Bain Capital ten years previously.
Under this ownership, its focus is on international expansion
Under the ownership of Blackstone Group, Jack Wolfskin has sharpened its focus on expanding its international presence.
In 2013 it entered into an agreement with Heightsport to open stores and concessions in five countries in South America
Indeed, in July 2013 Jack Wolfskin entered into a partnership agreement with Heightsport—a South American retailer of sportswear and outdoor apparel—to open Jack Wolfskin stores and concessions3 in Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru.
Ownership of Jack Wolfskin changed hands once again in 2005 when Bain Capital sold the company to two investors—namely Quadriga Capital and Barclays Private Equity2—for Euro93 mn.
2
Barclays Private Equity was renamed Equistone Partners Europe following a management buy-out in November 2011. 3
A concession is a small retail outlet which is located in an allocated area of another store, usually a department store. 62
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
The first store was opened in Pucón, Chile, and Jack Wolfskin products are also sold in 17 Heightsport retail outlets in Ecuador
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
The first Jack Wolfskin store was opened in Pucón, Chile4—one of South America’s most popular destinations for outdoor enthusiasts—on July 13, 2013. Jack Wolfskin’s products are also sold by Heightsport in 17 of its retail outlets in Ecuador.
PRODUCTS AND APPLICATIONS Jack Wolfskin specialises in the supply of functional outdoor apparel for use in a number of applications
Jack Wolfskin specialises in the supply of functional outdoor apparel, accessories and equipment for use in the following applications: ● ● ● ●
alpine climbing; trekking; hiking; and active trail5.
It offers apparel for men, women and children, and its products are functional, user friendly and innovative—
The company has a comprehensive range of apparel for men, women and children.
—and comply with Oeko-Tex Standard 100
The products also comply with the requirements laid out in Oeko-Tex Standard 1006, and in many instances exceed them.
Its apparel products are said to feature a high degree of functionality, user friendliness and innovation.
Table 1: Jack Wolfskin: product range, 2013 Men’s wear Women’s wear Children’s wear Accessories
Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, underwear Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, skirts, underwear Fleece tops, jackets, pants, shirts, sweaters, underwear Belts, boots, gaiters, gloves, headwear, pant suspenders, scarves, shoes, socks Equipment Camera bags, laptop bags, mats, rucksacks, sleeping bags, tents, travel bags Travel accessories Bottles, cups, hip bags, mobile phone pouches, neck pouches, rain covers, towels, wallets, wash bags Care products Cleaning and impregnation agents, down detergent, weather protection cream for shoes Source: Jack Wolfskin.
Most garments are made from polyester, polyamide and blends thereof— 4
Most garments are made from polyester, polyamide and blends thereof, and many boast features which enhance performance and comfort.
See also Jack Wolfskin has opened its first store in South America, on page 93 of this issue.
5
Jack Wolfskin defines active trail as a highly active outdoor pursuit which requires little or no baggage. Examples include running up coastal hills. 6
Products complying with the requirements laid out in Oeko-Tex Standard 100 are certified as being free from substances which are harmful to humans and the environment. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
63
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
—and many boast features which enhance performance and comfort
Such features include:
Garments for children have additional features which reduce the risk of accidents
Garments for children have additional features which reduce the risk of accidents. All garments incorporate high visibility materials. Also, objects such as drawstrings and fastenings for buttons and zip tabs have been designed in such a way as to reduce the risk of them catching on objects or being swallowed.
● close-fitting cuffs; ● fabric reinforcements in areas prone to abrasion, such as elbows and knees; ● fleece lined collars; ● ventilation zips which improve air circulation; and ● water repellent zips.
Table 2: Jack Wolfskin: high performance outdoor garments Product Activate Pants Women Arco Hoody Women Anchorage Parka Men
Description Softshell pants Fleece top Waterproof down parka
Composition Polyamide, elastane Polyester Polyester, down, polypropylene
Avalanche Jacket Men
Windproof and snowproof skiing jacket
Polyester, polyamide, elastane
Mandu Peak Men
A double jacket comprising a Polyester, polyamide, shell jacket and an inner elastane jacket which can be zipped together Long johns Merino wool Waterproof softshell jacket Polyester, polyamide
Merino 3/4 Tights Men Supercharge Jacket Men
Features Adjustable hem; articulated knees Close-fitting hood; high collar Ventilation zip across the chest; removable hood; fleece cuffs; powder skirt Detachable hood; underarm ventilation zips; close-fitting cuffs with thumbhole; powder skirt Underarm ventilation zips; integral hood; high collar
Insulating and antimicrobial properties Underarm ventilation zips; roll-up hood; powder skirt
Source: Jack Wolfskin.
Jack Wolfskin’s products are popular among hikers and mountaineers, and its apparel products have gained strong appeal among consumers of casual wear
Jack Wolfskin’s products are said to enjoy strong popularity among hikers and mountaineers. Moreover, its apparel products have gained strong appeal among consumers of casual wear, not least because of their functionality, fashionable styling and vivid range of colours.
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS Jack Wolfskin recognises that innovative technologies are important in differentiating products and attracting consumer demand, and so the company invests heavily in research and development 64
Like many companies operating at the high end of the performance apparel market, Jack Wolfskin recognises that innovative technologies are becoming increasingly important as a means of differentiating products and attracting consumer demand. The company therefore invests heavily in research and development with a view to making its products even more versatile and user friendly. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Figure 1 Jack Wolfskin men’s jacket
Figure 2 Jack Wolfskin women’s pants
Source: Jack Wolfskin
Source: Jack Wolfskin
Figure 3 Jack Wolfskin children’s long sleeve top
Figure 4 Jack Wolfskin men’s trekking shoe
Source: Jack Wolfskin
Source: Jack Wolfskin
Figure 5 Jack Wolfskin women’s rucksack
Figure 6 Jack Wolfskin sleeping bag
Source: Jack Wolfskin
Source: Jack Wolfskin
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
65
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
It has introduced several product innovations and holds several patents
In recent years, it has introduced a number of product innovations and holds several patents for technologies used in its garments, rucksacks and tents.
The product innovations for which Jack Wolfskin is perhaps best known are Texapore, Fibercloud and Nanuk
The product innovations for which Jack Wolfskin is perhaps best known are: ● Texapore; ● Fibercloud; and ● Nanuk.
Texapore is a waterproof breathable fabric
TEXAPORE Texapore is a waterproof breathable fabric which is manufactured using membranes and coatings made from polyurethane to achieve its waterproof breathable properties.
It is available in over 40 different types
The fabric is available in over 40 different types, and each has a specific level of waterproofness and breathability.
The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability
The company has developed ten levels of waterproof breathability, as follows. ● Four levels are based on a microporous coating which is securely bonded to a shell fabric. ● Another four levels are based on the use of pore-free membranes. ● The remaining two levels are based on a hybrid technology which involves the use of a combination of coatings and membranes. Table 3: Jack Wolfskin: waterproofness and breathability ratings of Texapore fabrics Waterproof rating Breathability rating (g/m2/24 hours)b (mm H2O)a Texapore 10,000 9,000 Texapore Air O2+ 5,000 >15,000 Texapore Air O3+ 5,000 30,000 Texapore O2 20,000 15,000-20,000 Texapore O3 Smoothlight Softshell 20,000 25,000-30,000 Texapore O4 20,000 35,000-40,000 Texapore Hyproof O3 40,000 30,000 a Hydrostatic head (see page 29). b Moisture vapour transfer rate (MVTR—see page 31). Source: Jack Wolfskin.
The level of waterproof breathability required for a garment depends on the outdoor activity for which the garment is intended
66
The level of waterproof breathability required for a garment made from Texapore fabric is determined by the particular outdoor activity for which the garment is intended. For example, jackets for alpine hiking use a triple-layered fabric construction which has very high levels of waterproofness and breathability.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions, each of which is designed for a specific activity level
Fibercloud is a fibrefill material which provides almost as much warmth as down, but also has the favourable attributes of synthetic fibres
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Texapore fabric is offered in three main versions, each of which is designed for a specific activity level, namely: ● stretch; ● extra lightweight; and ● extra robust. FIBERCLOUD Fibercloud is a fibrefill material which combines the benefits of natural insulating materials, notably down, with those of their synthetic counterparts. The material provides almost as much warmth as down as it has a similar loft or “fill power”7. However, it also has the favourable attributes of synthetic fibres, such as easy care and quick drying properties.
It is made from a mix of microfibres and hollow fibres which are balled together in a cloud-like structure
Fibercloud is made from a mix of microfibres and hollow fibres of different lengths, shapes and deniers. These fibres are balled together in a cloud-like structure and are packed loosely into baffles8 where they can achieve their full lofting capability.
The insulation properties of Fibercloud are said to be unaffected by dampness
According to Jack Wolfskin, the insulation properties of Fibercloud are unaffected by dampness—unlike the insulation properties of conventional down.
Nanuk is a lightweight and yet hard-wearing fleece which has a pile on both surfaces so perspiration is wicked away while body heat is retained The fabric is available in three versions which provide different amounts of insulation
NANUK Nanuk is a lightweight and yet hard-wearing fleece which is said to provide an optimal balance of insulation and breathability. The fabric has a pile on both surfaces which helps to wick perspiration away from the skin but also helps to retain body heat. The fabric is available in three versions, namely: ● Nanuk 100, which is the lightest in weight and provides the least amount of insulation; ● Nanuk 200, which is medium weight and provides a moderate amount of insulation; and ● Nanuk 300, which is the heaviest in weight and provides the greatest amount of insulation.
7
Fill power is a measure of the “fluffiness” of a down product. The higher the fill power of the down, the more insulating air pockets the down has and the better its insulating ability. Fill power is measured in units of cuin (cubic inches). Fibercloud has a cuin of 500, which means that 1 oz (28 g) of the material occupies a volume of 500 cubic inches (0.008 m3) under a particular pressure.
8
A baffle is a chamber between two pieces of fabric which holds insulating material. Baffles are designed to prevent the insulating material from moving around inside a garment or a sleeping bag. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
67
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
PRODUCT SOURCING Jack Wolfskin outsources the manufacture of its products to a total of 78 facilities in 14 countries
Jack Wolfskin outsources the manufacture of its outdoor apparel, accessories and equipment to a total of 78 facilities in 14 countries. More than half of the company’s suppliers are based in China and Vietnam.
It has a systematic approach to monitoring its supplier factories
The company has put in place a highly organised and systematic approach to monitoring its supplier factories, and carries out audits of its production sites frequently.
In September 2013 the company made a bold move by publishing a list of its manufacturers
In September 2013 the company made a bold move by publishing a list of its manufacturers (Table 4) and making this list available online via its website. In doing so, it made its production and supply chain more transparent.
DISTRIBUTION, SALES AND MARKETING
Jack Wolfskin supplies its products from a distribution centre in Neu Wulmstorf, Germany, which is close to the Port of Hamburg
DISTRIBUTION Jack Wolfskin supplies its products from a distribution centre in Neu Wulmstorf, Germany. The centre went into operation in 2010 and has modern facilities. Furthermore, it is close to the Port of Hamburg, a location which is considered ideal as the large bulk of the company’s products are shipped from factories in Asia.
The centre has room for expansion to accommodate sales growth in the future
The centre occupies a space of over 40,000 m2, and can be expanded by 10,000 m2 in order to accommodate sales growth in the years ahead.
Jack Wolfskin boasts an ability to supply stocks of merchandise at very short notice
Jack Wolfskin boasts an ability to supply stocks of merchandise at very short notice. Indeed, up to 30% of a store’s orders can be fulfilled in one day and the remainder of the order can be fulfilled usually by the next day.
Products from the centre are distributed through three distribution channels
Products from the centre are distributed through three distribution channels, namely:
68
● stores; ● catalogues; and ● online retailing.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Table 4: Jack Wolfskin: suppliers, 2013 Name Bangladesh Youngone (CEPZ) Youngone Hi-Tech Sportswear Industries Bulgaria TFT Trend Fashion Textil Trend Fashion Textile Rakovski Cambodia Ming Da Footwear QMI Industrial China Anhui Jiahai Clothes & Ornament Beijing Century Beauty Beijing Oceano Apparel Beijing Wanxing Clothing Fujian Putian Unionwin Import and Export Fujian Quanzhou Blue Fish Shoes Hongfeng Shoes & Garments JFC Apparel Jiangsu Asian Sourcing Headwear Jinjiang Longshine Shoes LeCrown Shoes Industry Ming Rui Footwear Industrial Ningbo Gas & Fogagent Ningbo Xin Cheng Shoes Putian Xiang Guan Footwear Shanghai Challenge Garment Shanghai Solid Stainless Steel Shanghai Yangfan Sleeping Bag Shanghai Yike Tent Manufacture Shuang Yang Footwear Shunde Top Standing Products Tseng; Hsuan Ling Sleeping Bag Enterprise Tseng; Jiujiang Zhanda Clothing Yangzhou Huamao Craftwork Youngtech (Dong Guan) Yudu County Jiangkai Sports Products India Euro Clothing Company Gokaldas Exports Gokaldas India The Cotton and Textile Corporation Usha Garments Mfg Indonesia PT Ameya Livingstyle PT Citra Abadi Sejati PT Jaba Garmindo PT Kido Jaya PT Sungintex PT Trigoldenstar Wisesa Source: Jack Wolfskin.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Location Chittagong Dhaka Krichim Rakovski Khet Phnom Penh Fuyang Beijing Hebei Beijing Fujian Quanzhou Chendai Heshan City Huai An City Jinjiang City Fujian Fujian Ningbo City Zhejiang Fujian Shanghai Shanghai Shanghai Shanghai Fujian Guangdong Guangdong Jiangxi Zhejiang Guangdong Jiangxi Bangalore Chennai Bangalore Tirupur Gujarat Yogyakarta Bogor Tangerang Karawang Bantar Gebang Bekasi Karawang
Name Italy Insocks Interknit Intermed die Verardo Andrea & CS Intersocks New Koko’s Romania SC Galway Sport Slovenia Interconf Intersocks Recinko South Korea Naschem Taiwan Foam Tex Thailand Hong Lin Manufacturing Hong Lin Manufacturing Lee-Lin Apparel VT Garment Yuan Jiou Garment Turkey Pantera Iç ve Dıs Tic Vietnam ASG Vina Astro Saigon Bac Giang Garment Cong Ty Tnhh Cn-Tm Minh Nghe Dong Tien Joint Stock Company Elegant Team Manufacture Han Viet Ho Guom Garment Joint Stock Company Kaiyang Vietnam Kido Hanoi May Hai Joint Stock Company MK IMEX Moland Northern Textiles and Garment Joint Stock Company Prex Vinh Shints BVT Viet Thang Garment Joint Stock Company Viva Saigon
Location Pieve D’Alpago Pieve D’Alpago Ghedi Pieve D’Alpago Pieve D’Alpago Aiud Kocˇevje Kocˇevje Kocˇevje Incheon Tachung County Bangkok Buriram Bangkok Bangkok Maesod Istanbul Binh Duong Ho Chi Minh City Bac Giang Ho Chi Minh City Dong Nai Que Vo Ho Chi Minh City Ban Yen Nhan Haiphong Hung Yen Hai Phong Ho Chi Minh City Dong Nai Hanoi Do Luong Thach Khoi Commune Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City
69
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Jack Wolfskin’s products are sold by more than 4,000 retailers and through its own stores
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Stores Jack Wolfskin’s products are sold by more than 4,000 retailers— primarily outdoor sporting goods specialists—across Europe. Its products are also sold through more than 800 Jack Wolfskin stores, most of which are operated on a franchise basis.
The size of the company’s stores varies widely
The size of the company’s stores varies widely, from just 75 m2 to 700 m2.
The stores are located in prime shopping locations
The stores are located in prime shopping locations, including airports and areas which attract outdoor enthusiasts.
The company has focused on expanding the number of its stores, predominantly in Asia
Over the past two years, the company has focused on expanding the number of its stores. Most of the expansion has been in Asia. Indeed, between March 2012 and May 2013, it increased the number of its stores in China and South Korea by 47%. In absolute terms, the increase amounted to 158 stores, which accounted for more than 85% of the total number of Jack Wolfskin stores opened worldwide during this period. Table 5: Jack Wolfskin: number of stores by country, 2012 and 2013 No of stores 2013b Country 2012a China 322 459 Germany 235 246 South Korea 14 35 Austria 17 22 Switzerland 12 12 Belgium 8 9 UK 7 7 Italy 6 7 Poland 2 5 France 4 4 Luxembourg 4 4 Russia 1 3 Netherlands 2 1 Slovenia 0 1 Turkey 0 1 Total 634 816 a As at March 1, 2012. b As at May 8, 2013. Source: Jack Wolfskin.
Change 2013/12 137 11 21 5 0 1 0 1 3 0 0 2 -1 1 1 182
Catalogues Catalogues are distributed in Catalogues are distributed in Jack Wolfskin stores or sent out by post Jack Wolfskin stores or sent to consumers. At the start of each new season, the catalogue’s print out by post to consumers run exceeds 800,000 copies. Online retailing Online sales are generated by Online sales are generated by Jack Wolfskin’s own online Jack Wolfskin’s own online store—which can be accessed via www.jack-wolfskin.com—as well store and online stores owned as from online stores owned by online retailers with whom the company has established a partnership. by other online retailers 70
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Overall, Jack Wolfskin’s sales are heavily skewed towards Europe although sales in China are set to grow following a large increase in the number of stores in the country
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
SALES Jack Wolfskin’s sales are heavily skewed towards Europe in general, and Austria and Germany in particular. Overall, however, they are derived from a large number of markets around the world and sales in China are set to grow significantly as a result of a large increase in the number of stores in the country between March 1, 2012, and May 8, 2013 (see Table 5).
Between 2003/04 and 2010/11, Between the company’s 2003/04 financial year and its 2010/11 sales rose every year at dou- financial year9, sales rose every year at double digit percentage growth rates. ble digit percentage rates In 2011/12, however, sales declined by 1.1% due to sluggishness in core European markets
In 2011/12, however, sales declined by 1.1%, in contrast to a 16.7% increase in 2010/11. The decline in sales was attributed to sluggishness in core European markets as a result of weakness in consumer spending and unfavourable weather conditions.
On a positive note, sales of apparel rose by 5% during 2011/12
On a positive note, sales of apparel rose by 5% during 2011/12 and major gains in sales were recorded in Asia, Eastern Europe and the UK. Figure 7
Jack Wolfskin: sales, 2003/04-2011/12 (Euro mn)
400 355.0
351.0
304.2
300 251.4 205.5
200 156.3 129.6
100
97.4 73.0
0 2003/04 2004/05 2005/06 2006/07 2007/08 2008/09 2009/10 2010/11 2011/12 NB: years are financial years ending September 30 Source: Jack Wolfskin
Jack Wolfskin relies heavily on sponsorships to promote its brand
MARKETING In common with other companies in the outdoor apparel industry, Jack Wolfskin relies heavily on sponsorships to promote its brand.
Some of its sponsorships are not associated with the activities for which its products are designed
In particular, the company sponsors a number of athletic teams, expeditions, organisations, clubs and events, although some of these are not associated with the activities for which its products are designed.
9
Years are financial years ending September 30.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
71
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
In 2010 Jack Wolfskin became an official sponsor of Liverpool Football Club in a bid to attract new customer groups and increase its recognition in the UK
In 2010 Jack Wolfskin became an official sponsor of Liverpool Football Club, an English Premier League football club.
In July 2013 Jack Wolfskin announced that it was to give its corporate identity a makeover in order to revamp its brand image and promote its products
In July 2013 Jack Wolfskin announced that it was to give its corporate identity a makeover in order to revamp its brand image and promote its products.
The move was prompted by a desire to attract new customer groups to the outdoor clothing market and ultimately increase the company’s brand recognition in the UK.
The company has redesigned its paw print logo to give it a fresh look and will use its “At Home Outdoors” motto more often. Also, its clothing collection for the spring/summer 2014 season is expected to be “one of its most attention-grabbing to date”.
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY (CSR) CSR is a core value at Jack Wolfskin and the company aims to conduct its business in an environmentally sustainable manner
Executives at Jack Wolfskin maintain that corporate social responsibility (CSR) is a core value at the company, and that the company intends to prove that conducting its business in an environmentally sustainable manner will not compromise the quality of its products or jeopardise the success of its business.
The former CEO of Jack Wolfskin believed that doing so would help the company to develop successfully
Indeed, according to a statement by the former chief executive officer (CEO) of the company, Manfred Hell: “Jack Wolfskin has always taken its responsibility to the environment and to the people who manufacture our products very seriously, and considers it a fundamental prerequisite for successful company development”.
The company has analysed all its processes and produced an action plan to reduce specific CO2 emissions
In a bid to make its operations environmentally sustainable, the company has analysed all its processes and has produced an action plan to reduce specific CO2 emissions.
It also participates in a forestation programme
In addition, the company participates in a forestation programme to offset the effect of CO2 emissions which it can not feasibly reduce.
For several years, the company has restricted the use of hazardous substances in the manufacture of its products
For several years, Jack Wolfskin has restricted the use of hazardous substances in the manufacture of its products. The company is keen to emphasise that, in many cases, its restrictions are more stringent than those required by legal regulations or industry standards.
72
It has already made substantial progress on this front. Between 2007 and 2011, for example, it reduced CO2 emissions by more than 50% thanks to a number of initiatives, including the use of solar energy.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
Table 6: Jack Wolfskin: key corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives Date April 2007
Corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiative The company published a catalogue containing an overview of requirements relating to contaminants, and it regulated the use of finishing treatments which may contain PFOSa and PFOAb June 2007 The company developed a legally binding code of conduct January 2009 The company decided to stop using harmful substances and it banned the use of finishing treatments which may contain PFOAb June 2010 The company became one of the first companies in the outdoor industry to join the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF)c July 2010 The company published its first Supplier Social Report December 2011 The company became a bluesignd system partner July 2012 The company published its first Environmental Report and second Supplier Social Report August 2012 The first bluesignd approved materials were used in its clothing September 2012 The company decided to stop using fluorinated compounds October 2012 The company joined the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programmee February 2013 The company declared that all cotton used in future would be from certified organic sources September 2013 Rules for restricted substances were made stricter by the company March 2014 APEOsf and phthalates will be banned by the company August 2014 Items in collections of travel products are to be free of fluorinated compounds September 2014 Data on up to 25% of global purchases will be published December 2014 The use of C8g will be banned by the company September 2015 Data on up to 50% of global purchases will be published December 2016 50% of products will be free of PFCsh December 2018 75% of products will be free of PFCsh a Perfluorooctane sulphonate. b Perfluorooctanoic acid. c The Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) is a non-profit organisation which works with companies and factories to improve working conditions in the clothing industry. d bluesign, developed by Switzerland-based bluesign technologies, is an environmental, health and safety (EHS) standard for the assessment of materials and processes used in textile manufacturing; it certifies that a material or process is not harmful to humans or the environment. e Under the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme, a consortium of companies have pledged to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals throughout their supply chains and products by 2020. f Alkylphenol ethoxylates. g A compound which contains eight carbon atoms and 17 fluorine atoms. h Perfluorinated compounds. Source: Jack Wolfskin.
In early 2013 the company launched an action plan under which it aims to eliminate pollutants from its supply chain by 2020
In early 2013 the company launched an action plan under the motto “Going the extra mile”. Under this plan, it aims to eliminate pollutants from its supply chain by 2020.
This will not be an easy task as alternative technologies for enhancing product performance have proved inferior to those which involve the use of such substances
This will by no means be an easy task, given that alternative technologies for enhancing product performance have proved inferior to those which involve the use of such substances.
In an effort to achieve these aims by the 2020 deadline without compromising the quality of its products, Jack Wolfskin has teamed up with two research institutes in Germany
Nonetheless, Jack Wolfskin is cautiously optimistic about achieving these aims. In an effort to achieve these aims by the 2020 deadline without compromising the quality of its products, the company has teamed up with two research institutes in Germany, namely Helmholtz-Zentrum Geesthacht (Zentrum für Material- und Küstenforschung—Centre for Materials and Coastal Research) and Fresenius University of Applied Sciences.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
The company will take a step-by-step approach to the elimination of hazardous substances in all production processes by that year.
This is especially true in the case of oil repellency, which has proved to be difficult to achieve using methods which are more environmentally friendly.
73
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
The company has already phased out its use of finishing treatments which may contain PFOA as the latter is thought to be harmful to human health
Profile of Jack Wolfskin
The company has already phased out its use of finishing treatments which may contain perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)10 as the latter is thought to be harmful to human health. It is interesting to note that the decision to scrap the use of such treatments was voluntary as the EU has not yet defined limits for PFOA.
OUTLOOK Jack Wolfskin is confident about the prospects for its sales even in the face of fierce competition
Like many companies operating in the outdoor clothing industry, Jack Wolfskin is vulnerable to downturns in consumer spending. Nonetheless, it is confident about the prospects for its sales, even in the face of fierce competition.
The company has ambitious plans in place to strengthen its international presence, and will focus on expanding operations in three markets which have huge growth potential
The company is encouraged by the success of its brand in markets where it is already well established, and it has ambitious plans in place to strengthen its international presence.
The company is likely to remain a key beneficiary of a number of favourable trends in the outdoor apparel industry
While on its quest for expansion, the company is likely to remain a key beneficiary of a number of favourable trends in the outdoor apparel industry, notably:
It sees huge growth potential in a number of markets, and will focus on expanding operations in three of these—namely China, Russia and the UK.
● a quest for healthier lifestyles; ● increasing participation in outdoor sports and recreational activities; and ● growth in the appeal of technical outdoor apparel for casual wear.
10
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) is found in trace amounts in fluorocarbons which are used in a number of finishes for fabrics. PFOA has been declared “likely to be carcinogenic to humans” by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). 74
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
Business update SUMMARY Several companies have reported increases in their quarterly sales, including Perry Ellis International (up by 1%), VF Corporation (up by 4%), Unifi (up by 7%), Nike (up by 8%) and Under Armour (up by 23%). However, falls have been reported by Columbia Sportswear (down by 3%), Quiksilver (also down by 3%), Adidas (down by 4%) and Puma (down by 8%). Authentic Brands Group has acquired Spyder Active Sports, and JD Sports Fashion has acquired the fashion apparel retailer Ark. Columbia Sportswear has entered into an agreement with Chogori India Retail relating to the distribution of Columbia Sportswear products in India, and Iconix India has entered into a licensing agreement with Future Lifestyle Fashions relating to the distribution of the Umbro brand in India. Meanwhile, Unifi has entered into a manufacturing and distribution agreement with Palmetto Synthetics relating to Unifi’s Repreve polyester staple fibre. Teijin Aramid will invest ¥4.5 bn (US$45.0 mn) in developing a new meta-aramid fibre and building a new manufacturing facility at its existing site in Ayutthaya Province, Thailand, and Burlington Industries has won a contract worth US$5.3 mn from the US Air Force relating to the supply of microdenier polyester fabric. Patagonia has officially launched a new garment recycling scheme in four of its stores in the USA following a successful pilot period, while the Outdoor Industries Association Social Responsibility Working Group (OIA SRWG) has launched a new online guidebook in order to help outdoor apparel companies to comply with corporate social responsibility (CSR) guidelines. Jack Wolfskin has opened its first store in South America, and Matalan has opened a new chain of sportswear and sports equipment stores, called Sporting Pro, in the UK. Sports Direct is in discussions with Tesco relating to the opening of Sports Direct stores inside three of Tesco’s largest UK hypermarkets, and Ethan Wishnick plans to launch a new brand of performance apparel, called Toren, in spring 2014. Macy’s has entered into a licensing agreement with Lids Sports Group relating to the opening of new sportswear concessions inside Macy’s stores, and it will expand its offering of sportswear and activewear in its stores in a bid to attract a greater number of millennial consumers.
ACQUISITIONS, DIVESTMENTS AND MERGERS
Authentic Brands Group has acquired Spyder Active Sports, which is the first outdoor and winter sports apparel company in Authentic Brands Group’s portfolio
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP HAS ACQUIRED SPYDER ACTIVE SPORTS Authentic Brands Group—a USA-based brand development and licensing company—has acquired Spyder Active Sports, a USA-based manufacturer and retailer of high quality winter sports apparel. Financial details of the acquisition have not been disclosed. Spyder Active Sports is the first outdoor and winter sports apparel company in Authentic Brands Group’s portfolio.
75
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
Authentic Brands Group was attracted to acquiring Spyder Active Sports as the latter produces highly technical and fashionable apparel and is well respected by outdoor enthusiasts
Authentic Brands Group was attracted to acquiring Spyder Active Sports as the latter produces highly technical and fashionable apparel and is well respected by outdoor enthusiasts.
The acquisition will enable Spyder Active Sports to expand into new markets
According to the chief executive officer (CEO) of Spyder Active Sports, Tom McGann, the acquisition will enable the company to expand into new geographical markets.
Spyder Active Sports has been the official supplier of sportswear to the US Ski Team since 1989 and the Canadian Alpine Ski Team since 2002.
Authentic Brands Group has In connection with the acquisition, Authentic Brands Group has entered into two agreements entered into two separate licensing agreements with LF USA and with LF USA and LF Asia LF Asia relating to the Spyder Active Sports brand. LF USA will be the licensee for the Spyder Active Sports brand in the Americas and in EMEA, and LF Asia will be the licensee for the brand in Asia-Pacific
LF USA will act as the exclusive licensee for the Spyder Active Sports brand in the Americas, and in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA). LF Asia, meanwhile, will act as the exclusive licensee for the brand in the Asia-Pacific region. LF USA and LF Asia are subsidiaries of Li & Fung, a multinational sourcing company.
JD Sports Fashion has acquired Ark, a fashion apparel retailer
JD SPORTS FASHION HAS ACQUIRED THE FASHION APPAREL RETAILER ARK JD Sports Fashion—a UK-based retail group which owns a number of brands—has acquired Ark, a fashion apparel retailer which is also based in the UK.
Ark entered into administration in June 2013—
Ark entered into administration at the end of June 2013 as a result of financial difficulties. Ark stated that its sales had been affected by increasing competition from online retailers.
—and closed down four of its 14 stores
During the period for which it was in administration, Ark closed down four of its 14 stores and made 40 of its 200 employees redundant.
JD Sports Fashion will own the ten remaining Ark stores and 160 jobs have been safeguarded
Under the terms of the acquisition, JD Sports Fashion will own the ten Ark stores which were not closed. As a result, the jobs of Ark’s remaining 160 employees have been safeguarded. Ark will continue to operate the ten stores from its headquarters in Leeds, UK.
The acquisition forms part of JD Sports Fashion’s “ambitious” expansion plans
JD Sports Fashion’s acquisition of Ark forms part of its “ambitious” expansion plans. Indeed, in January 2012 the group acquired Blacks Leisure Group—a UK-based retail group which owns the Blacks and Millets outdoor retailers—and in February 2013 it acquired Gio Goi, a UK-based fashion apparel brand.
76
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
COMPANY STRATEGY MACY’S WILL EXPAND ITS OFFERING OF SPORTSWEAR AND ACTIVEWEAR IN A BID TO ATTRACT A GREATER NUMBER OF MILLENNIAL CONSUMERS Macy’s will expand its sports- Macy’s1, a USA-based department store retailer, will expand its wear and activewear range to offering of sportswear and activewear in a bid to attract a greater attract millennial consumers number of millennial consumers2. Macy’s has noticed that millennial consumers who buy fashion items in its stores also buy sportswear or activewear during the same visit, so it decided to expand its ranges
Macy’s has noticed that millennial consumers who purchase fashion items in its stores frequently purchase items of sportswear or activewear during the same visit.
Specifically, it will expand its offerings of five brands
Specifically, Macy’s will expand its offerings of:
In addition, it will introduce Helly Hansen activewear to its stores for the first time
In addition, Macy’s will introduce Helly Hansen activewear to its stores for the first time. Helly Hansen activewear for men will be available in 30 of its stores while Helly Hansen activewear for women will be available in 25 of its stores.
As a result, Macy’s has decided to expand its sportswear and activewear ranges to enable it to cater to the needs of its millennial consumers more fully.
● ● ● ● ●
CK Performance activewear for women; Ideology activewear for women; Nike sportswear for men, women, boys and girls; The North Face activewear for men, women, boys and girls; and Under Armour activewear for men, women and boys.
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY (CSR)
Patagonia has launched a new garment recycling scheme in four of its stores in the USA—
PATAGONIA HAS OFFICIALLY LAUNCHED A NEW GARMENT RECYCLING SCHEME IN FOUR OF ITS STORES IN THE USA FOLLOWING A SUCCESSFUL PILOT PERIOD Patagonia3—a USA-based retailer of outdoor apparel—has officially launched a new garment recycling scheme, called Worn Wear, in four of its stores in the USA.
1
See also “Profiles of six leading US apparel retailers”, Global Apparel Markets, No 22, 2nd quarter 2013.
2
Millennial consumers are consumers aged between 13 and 30 years.
3
See also “Profile of Patagonia: a pioneer in corporate social responsibility (CSR)”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 44, 1st quarter 2013. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
77
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
—following a successful pilot version of the scheme at a store in Portland
The garment recycling scheme was launched following the success of a pilot version of the scheme at a Patagonia store in Portland, Oregon, USA.
The scheme has now been launched officially in the Portland store and three other stores
As the pilot version proved to be extremely popular with consumers, the scheme has now been launched officially in the Portland store as well as in three other Patagonia stores—in Chicago, Palo Alto and Seattle.
Under the scheme, consum- Under the scheme, a consumer is able to hand in items of Patagonia ers can hand in unwanted or clothing which are damaged or which he or she no longer has use damaged Patagonia clothing for. In return, they will receive a voucher which can be redeemed against new Patagonia products
In return for each item the consumer hands in, he or she will receive a voucher with a value equal to 50% of the original price of the item. The voucher can be redeemed against new Patagonia products in physical Patagonia stores or via the online Patagonia store.
Patagonia will resell items in good condition via its online store, and will recycle as many elements as possible of the remainder
Patagonia will resell items which are in good condition via the Worn Wear section of its online store.
According to the vicepresident of marketing at Patagonia, the scheme will help to put good products back in circulation
When news of the scheme was announced, the vice-president of marketing at Patagonia, Vincent Stanley, said: “If a company makes something good, you want it to stay in circulation. We wanted to make it easier for customers to put things back in circulation, particularly expensive items”.
OIA SRWG has launched a new guidebook to help outdoor apparel companies to comply with CSR guidelines
THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY WORKING GROUP (OIA SRWG) HAS LAUNCHED A NEW ONLINE GUIDEBOOK TO HELP OUTDOOR APPAREL COMPANIES TO COMPLY WITH CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY (CSR) GUIDELINES The Outdoor Industries Association Social Responsibility Working Group (OIA SRWG) has launched a new online guidebook to help outdoor apparel companies to comply with corporate social responsibility (CSR) guidelines.
OIA SRWG is a division of the Outdoor Industries Association (OIA)
The OIA SRWG is a division of the Outdoor Industries Association (OIA) and was set up to explore issues relating to CSR in the outdoor apparel industry.
The guidebook was developed because many outdoor apparel companies find it difficult to establish CSR strategies
The OIA SRWG developed the guidebook after learning that many outdoor apparel companies were finding it difficult to establish CSR strategies because they found existing information regarding CSR strategies to be too complex and to contain too much jargon.
78
For those items which Patagonia can not resell, it will aim to recycle as many elements as possible of each item.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
The guidebook explains why it is beneficial to implement such a strategy and how a company can do so
The guidebook provides information which explains why it is beneficial for an outdoor apparel company to implement a basic CSR strategy, and gives advice on the ways in which the company can implement such a strategy.
It comprises a main document and an appendix
The guidebook comprises a main document and an appendix of tools and resources.
The main document contains information covering several topics
The main document contains information covering several topics, including:
The appendix provides extra information relating to each of the topics covered by the main document
The appendix of tools and resources provides companies with additional information relating to each of the topics covered by the main document. It includes links to helpful websites and research papers, as well as examples of successful CSR strategies.
In the future, the OIA SRWG plans to release two more versions of the guidebook
In the future, the OIA SRWG plans to release two more versions of the guidebook. One version will advise outdoor apparel companies on how they can improve upon the basic CSR strategy set out in the first guidebook, while the other version will advise companies on how they can implement an advanced CSR strategy.
Companies can download the guidebook online
Companies can download the guidebook online by visiting: www.outdoorindustry.org/responsibility/social/toolkit.html.
● obtaining approval from company executives to implement a CSR strategy; ● creating a code of conduct; ● informing suppliers and customers of the expectations of the strategy; ● identifying high risk areas in the supply chain; ● monitoring compliance with the strategy; and ● training staff in the ways in which they must comply with the strategy.
FINANCIAL RESULTS ADIDAS Adidas has reported results Germany-based Adidas—one of the world’s largest sportswear for the second quarter and companies—has reported results for the second quarter and the first the first half of 2013 half of its 2013 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 2013. In the second quarter of 2013, total revenues were down by 4%, but on a currency adjusted basis they remained unchanged
Second quarter 2013 In the second quarter of 2013, total revenues were down by 4% to Euro3,383 mn (US$4,456 mn) compared with Euro3,517 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year. On a currency adjusted basis4, total revenues remained more or less unchanged.
4
Calculations made on a currency adjusted basis have been corrected to remove the effects of variations in currency exchange rates. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
79
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
Retail revenues were up, but wholesales revenues and revenues from “other businesses” were down
Within the Euro3,383 mn total, retail revenues were up by 2% to Euro867 mn. However, wholesale revenues were down by 5% to Euro2,014 mn and revenues generated under the company’s “other businesses” category were down by 9% to Euro502 mn.
Reebok, Rockport and Reebok-CCM Hockey revenues rose—
A breakdown by brand shows that Reebok revenues were up by 6% and Rockport revenues by 3%, while Reebok-CCM Hockey revenues were up marginally.
—but TaylorMade-Adidas Golf and Adidas revenues were down
By contrast, TaylorMade-Adidas Golf revenues were down by 13% and Adidas revenues by 4% (Table 1). Table 1: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by brand, 2 qtr 2012 and 2 qtr 2013 Value 2 qtr 2012 2 qtr 2013 (Euro mn) (Euro mn) Adidas 2,649 2,546 Reebok 336 355 TaylorMade-adidas Golf 401 348 Rockport 67 69 Reebok-CCM Hockey 64 65 Total 3,517 3,383 NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding. Source: Adidas.
In euro terms (%) -4 6 -13 3 0 -4
Change Currency adjusted (%) 0 11 -8 7 2 0
Revenues in Latin America were up by 13% and in “Greater China” by 7%
A breakdown by geographical region shows that revenues in Latin America were up by 13% and those in “Greater China”—which comprises China, Hong Kong and Taiwan—were up by 7% (Table 2).
By contrast, revenues in Western Europe fell by 12% and those in “other Asian markets” by 7%
By contrast, revenues in Western Europe were down by 12% and those in “other Asian markets”—which comprise Australia, India, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, the Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand and Vietnam—were down by 7%.
Revenues in “European emerging markets” fell by 4% and those in North America also fell by 4%
Revenues in “European emerging markets”—consisting of Armenia, Belarus, Bulgaria, Egypt, Israel, Kazakhstan, Romania, Russia, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Tunisia, Turkey, Ukraine and the United Arab Emirates (UAE)—were down by 4% and those in North America were also down by 4%. Table 2: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by region, 2 qtr 2012 and 2 qtr 2013 Value 2 qtr 2012 2 qtr 2013 (Euro mn) (Euro mn) Western Europe 924 812 North America 859 826 European emerging markets 487 467 Latin America 332 376 Greater China 347 371 Other Asian markets 568 531 Total 3,517 3,383 NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding. Source: Adidas.
80
In euro terms (%) -12 -4 -4 13 7 -7 -4
Change Currency adjusted (%) -11 -2 0 21 6 7 0
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
The company’s net income, The company’s net income, meanwhile, was up by 5% to Euro171 mn meanwhile, was up by 5% compared with Euro164 mn in the second quarter of 2012.
In the first half of 2013, total revenues were down by 3%, but revenues remained unchanged on a currency adjusted basis
First half 2013 In the first half of 2013, total revenues were down by 3% to Euro7,134 mn compared with Euro7,341 mn in the corresponding period one year earlier. On a currency adjusted basis, however, total revenues remained unchanged.
Retail revenues were up, but wholesale revenues and revenues from “other businesses” were down
Within the Euro7,134 mn total, retail revenues were up by 3% to Euro1,589 mn. However, wholesale revenues were down by 5% to Euro4,495 mn and revenues generated under the company’s “other businesses” category were down by 2% to Euro1,050 mn.
Rockport revenues were up, but Reebok, Reebok-CCM Hockey, TaylorMadeAdidas Golf and Adidas revenues were down
A breakdown by brand shows that Rockport revenues were up by 2%. By contrast, Reebok revenues were down by 7%, Reebok-CCM Hockey revenues by 6%, TaylorMade-Adidas Golf revenues by 2% and Adidas revenues also by 2% (Table 3). Table 3: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by brand, Jan-Jun 2012 and Jan-Jun 2013 Value Jan-Jun 2012 Jan-Jun 2013 (Euro mn) (Euro mn) Adidas 5,537 5,404 TaylorMade-adidas Golf 788 771 Reebok 787 733 Rockport 127 130 Reebok-CCM Hockey 102 96 Total 7,341 7,134 NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding. Source: Adidas.
Revenues in Latin America and in Greater China rose
In euro terms (%) -2 -2 -7 2 -6 -3
Change Currency adjusted (%) 0 2 -4 4 -6 0
A breakdown by geographical region shows that revenues in Latin America were up by 9% and in Greater China by 7% (Table 4). Table 4: Adidas: breakdown of revenues by region, Jan-Jun 2012 and Jan-Jun 2013 Value Jan-Jun 2012 Jan-Jun 2013 (Euro mn) (Euro mn) Western Europe 2,098 1,907 North America 1,728 1,716 European emerging markets 917 901 Latin America 704 765 Greater China 732 781 Other Asian markets 1,162 1,064 Total 7,341 7,134 NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding. Source: Adidas.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
In euro terms (%) -9 -1 -2 9 7 -8 -3
Change Currency adjusted (%) -9 1 1 16 6 1 0
81
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
But revenues elsewhere were down
Business update
By contrast, revenues in Western Europe were down by 9%, in other Asian markets by 8%, in European emerging markets by 2% and in North America by 1%.
The company’s net income, The company’s net income, meanwhile, was up by 6% to Euro481 mn meanwhile, was up by 6% compared with Euro454 mn in the first half of 2012.
Columbia Sportswear has reported results for the second quarter and the first half of 2013
COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR Columbia Sportswear, a USA-based manufacturer of sportswear and outdoor clothing, has reported results for the second quarter and the first half of its 2013 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 2013.
In the second quarter of 2013, net sales were down by 3% to US$280.5 mn
Second quarter 2013 In the second quarter of 2013, net sales were down by 3% to US$280.5 mn compared with US$290.4 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
Sales in EMEA were down by 24% and those in LAAP by 3%, but sales in Canada were up by 52% and those in the USA by 6%
A breakdown by region shows that sales in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) were down by 24% to US$53.1 mn and those in Latin America and Asia Pacific (LAAP) by 3% to US$81.2 mn. By contrast, sales in Canada were up by 52% to US$6.4 mn and those in the USA by 6% to US$139.8 mn.
Sales of apparel, accessories A breakdown by product category shows that sales of apparel, and equipment fell by 2% accessories and equipment were down by 2% to US$235.7 mn and and footwear sales by 9% sales of footwear by 9% to US$44.8 mn. Sales of brands under the company’s “other” category were down by 16%, Mountain Hardwear brand sales by 5% and Columbia brand sales by 3%, while Sorel brand sales remained unchanged
A breakdown by brand shows that sales of the company’s Montrail and Pacific Trail brands—which come under the company’s “other” category—were down by 16% to US$2.6 mn, sales of its Mountain Hardwear brand by 5% to US$22.5 mn and sales of its Columbia brand by 3% to US$252.5 mn.
Meanwhile, Columbia incurred a net loss of US$7.3 mn
Meanwhile, Columbia incurred a net loss of US$7.3 mn compared with a net loss of US$7.9 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
In the first half of 2013, net sales were up by 1% to US$628.8 mn
First half 2013 In the first half of 2013, net sales were up by 1% to US$628.8 mn compared with US$623.5 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
Sales in the USA were up by 5%, in Canada by 3% and in LAAP by 2%
A breakdown by region shows that sales in the USA increased by 5% to US$340.3 mn, sales in Canada by 3% to US$30.2 mn and sales in Latin America and Asia Pacific (LAAP) by 2% to US$164.3 mn.
82
However, sales of its Sorel brand remained unchanged at US$2.9 mn.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
By contrast, sales in EMEA were down by 13%
Business update
By contrast, sales in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) were down by 13% to US$94.0 mn.
Sales of apparel, accessories A breakdown by product category shows that sales of apparel, and equipment and sales of accessories and equipment were up by 1%, to US$530.0 mn, and sales footwear were up by 1% of footwear were also up by 1%, to US$98.8 mn. Sales of the company’s A breakdown by brand shows that sales of the company’s Sorel brand Sorel brand soared by 65% soared by 65% to US$15.3 mn. Columbia brand sales and Mountain Hardwear brand sales remained unchanged
Sales of its Columbia brand remained unchanged at US$553.6 mn and sales of its Mountain Hardwear brand also remained unchanged, at US$54.6 mn.
By contrast, sales under the By contrast, sales of the company’s Montrail and Pacific Trail company’s “other” category brands—which come under the company’s “other” category—were were down by 12% down by 12% to US$5.3 mn. Meanwhile, Columbia achieved a net income of US$2.8 mn after making a loss of US$4.0 mn Nike has reported results for the first quarter of its 2013/14 financial year
Meanwhile, Columbia achieved a net income of US$2.8 mn compared with a net loss of US$4.0 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year. NIKE The USA-based sportswear giant Nike has reported results for the first quarter of its 2013/14 financial year. The quarter ended on August 31, 2013.
Revenues in the quarter were up by 8%
Revenues in the quarter were up by 8% to US$6,971 mn compared with US$6,474 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
Revenues in Central and Eastern Europe were up by 12%
A geographical breakdown shows that the fastest increase was in Central and Eastern Europe where revenues were up by 12%, from US$327 mn to US$366 mn.
Revenues in Western Europe Revenues in Western Europe were up by 11%, from US$1,176 mn to were up by 11% and in US$1,301 mn, and revenues in North America were up by 9%, from US$2,866 mn to US$3,135 mn. North America by 9% Revenues in Emerging Markets were up by 1%
Revenues in Emerging Markets—which the company defines as South and Central America, the Pacific region and Asia, excluding Greater China and Japan—were up by only 1%, from US$897 mn to US$902 mn.
By contrast, revenues in Japan were down by 20% and in Greater China by 1%
By contrast, revenues in Japan were down by 20%, from US$197 mn to US$158 mn, and revenues in Greater China—which the company defines as mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan—were down by 1%, from US$577 mn to US$574 mn.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
83
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Revenues generated by Converse were up by 18%
Business update
Revenues generated by the Converse brand5 were up by 18%, from US$418 mn to US$494 mn.
The company’s net income The company’s net income from continuing operations, meanwhile, from continuing operations, was up by 33% to US$780 mn compared with US$585 mn in the meanwhile, was up by 33% corresponding period of 2012/13. EBIT in Central and Eastern Europe was up by 50%, in North America by 26%, in Western Europe by 25%, in Japan by 4% and in Greater China by 3%
On a geographical basis, earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) in Central and Eastern Europe were up by 50% to US$81 mn, in North America by 26% to US$813 mn and in Western Europe by 25% to US$265 mn.
But EBIT in Emerging Markets was down by 5%
However, EBIT in Emerging Markets was down by 5% to US$210 mn.
Meanwhile, EBIT generated by Converse was up by 36%
Meanwhile, EBIT generated by Converse was up by 36% to US$169 mn.
EBIT in Japan was up by 4% to US$24 mn and in Greater China by 3% to US$170 mn.
PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL Perry Ellis International Perry Ellis International, a USA-based apparel manufacturer with a has reported results for the large family of brands, has reported results for the second quarter of second quarter of 2013/14 its 2013/14 financial year. The quarter ended on August 3, 2013. Total revenues in the quarter were up by 1.1% to US$211.7 mn
Total revenues in the quarter were up by 1.1% to US$211.7 mn compared with US$209.4 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
However, the company’s net loss increased from US$2.4 mn to US$2.8 mn
However, the company posted a net loss of US$2.8 mn which was higher than the net loss of US$2.4 mn posted for the corresponding period one year earlier.
In the whole of 2013/14, revenues are expected to be 2-3% higher than those in 2012/13 Puma has released results for the second quarter and the first half of 2013
Outlook In the light of these results, Perry Ellis International is expecting its revenues for the whole of its 2013/14 financial year to be 2-3% higher than those generated in the whole of its 2012/13 financial year. PUMA The Germany-based sportswear company Puma has released results for the second quarter and the first half of its 2013 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 2013.
5
Starting in the first quarter of 2013/14, Nike has changed the reporting structure for what was historically identified as “Other Businesses”, which included the Converse, Hurley and Nike Golf brands. The Hurley and Nike Golf brands are now included in the overall financial results for the Nike brand and for individual countries and geographical regions, reflecting the operational integration of these businesses into the Nike Brand category. Converse will be reported as a separate segment, reflecting the ongoing operation of this brand as a stand-alone business. 84
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
In the second quarter of 2013, sales were down by 8.0%
Second quarter 2013 In the second quarter of 2013, Puma’s worldwide consolidated sales were down by 8.0% to Euro692.3 mn (US$903.9 mn) compared with Euro752.9 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
The decrease has been attributed to a number of factors
The decrease has been attributed to sluggish sales in southern Europe and Asia, as well as the impact of currency conversions in the countries in which Puma does business.
Sales of apparel were down by 11.5% and sales of footwear by 11.1%, but sales of accessories were up by 7.9%
A breakdown of sales shows that sales of apparel were down by 11.5% to Euro227.0 mn and sales of footwear by 11.1% to Euro329.8 mn—although sales of accessories were up by 7.9% to Euro135.6 mn.
Sales in Asia Pacific were down by 16.5%, sales in EMEA by 6.1% and sales in the Americas by 4.2%
On a geographical basis, sales in all three reporting regions declined. In Asia Pacific sales were down by 16.5% to Euro159.1 mn. In Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) sales were down by 6.1% to Euro266.2 mn, and in the Americas they were down by 4.2% to Euro267.0 mn.
Net earnings, meanwhile, were down by 34.2%
Net earnings, meanwhile, were down by 34.2% to Euro17.5 mn compared with Euro26.7 mn in the corresponding period one year earlier.
In the first half of 2013, sales were down by 6.3%
First half 2013 In the first half of 2013, the company’s worldwide consolidated sales were down by 6.3% to Euro1,473.9 mn compared with Euro1,573.8 mn in the corresponding period of 2012.
Sales of footwear were down by 10.5% and sales of apparel by 7.8%, but sales of accessories were up by 9.0%
A breakdown by product category shows that sales of footwear were down by 10.5% to Euro702.8 mn and sales of apparel by 7.8% to Euro483.1 mn, although sales of accessories were up by 9.0% to Euro288.0 mn.
Sales in Asia Pacific were down by 13.1%, sales in EMEA by 5.7% and sales in the Americas by 2.3%
On a geographical basis, sales in Asia Pacific were down by 13.1% to Euro332.5 mn, sales in the EMEA region were down by 5.7% to Euro614.1 mn and sales in the Americas were down by 2.3% to Euro527.2 mn.
Net earnings were down by 32.6%
Net earnings, meanwhile, were down by 32.6% to Euro67.8 mn compared with Euro100.6 mn in the first half of 2012.
Quiksilver has released results for the third quarter of 2012/13
QUIKSILVER Quiksilver, a USA-based manufacturer of surf apparel, has released results for the third quarter of its 2012/13 financial year. The quarter ended on July 31, 2013.
Consolidated net revenues in the quarter were down by 3%
Consolidated net revenues from continuing operations in the quarter were down by 3% to US$495.8 mn compared with US$512.4 mn in the corresponding period one year earlier.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
85
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
Net revenues in the AsiaPacific region were down by 12% and those in the Americas were down by 6%
A breakdown by geographical region shows that net revenues in the Asia-Pacific region were down by 12%, from US$71.6 mn to US$63.4 mn, and those in the Americas were down by 6%, from US$286.1 mn to US$268.0 mn.
By contrast, net revenues in EMEA were up by 6%
By contrast, net revenues in Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) were up by 6% to US$163.8 mn compared with US$154.1 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
Corporate operations accounted for US$0.6 mn
The remaining US$0.6 mn was accounted for under the company’s corporate operations category.
The company’s net income plummeted by 85%
The company’s net income, meanwhile, plummeted by 85%, from US$12.5 mn to US$1.8 mn.
Under Armour has reported results for the second quarter of its 2013 financial year
UNDER ARMOUR Under Armour, a USA-based company which specialises in performance apparel with moisture wicking capabilities, has reported results for the second quarter of its 2013 financial year. The quarter ended on June 30, 2013.
Total net revenues in the quarter were up by 23.0%
Total net revenues in the quarter were up by 23.0% to US$454.5 mn compared with US$369.5 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
Apparel revenues were up by 22.7% due to strong sales of new base layer products
A breakdown by product category shows that apparel revenues were up by 22.7% from US$252.8 mn to US$310.2 mn. The increase was attributed to strong sales of new base layer products and the expansion of the Storm and Charged Cotton brands.
Sales of accessories were up by 30.1% and sales of footwear by 21.1%
Sales of accessories were up by 30.1% to US$51.0 mn compared with US$39.2 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year, and sales of footwear were up by 21.1%, from US$67.4 mn to US$81.7 mn.
Meanwhile, the company’s net income soared by 163.4%
Meanwhile, the company’s net income in the quarter soared by 163.4% to US$17.6 mn compared with US$6.7 mn in the corresponding period of 2012.
Unifi has reported results for the fourth quarter and the whole of 2012/13
UNIFI USA-based Unifi, one of the world’s largest producers of textured yarns, has reported results for the fourth quarter and the whole of its 2012/13 financial year. Both periods ended on June 30, 20136.
6
Results for Unifi’s 2012/13 financial year relate to a 53-week period whereas results for its 2011/12 financial period relate to a 52-week period. Results for the fourth quarter of its 2012/13 financial year relate to a 14-week period whereas results for the fourth quarter of its 2011/12 financial year relate to a 13-week period. 86
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
In the fourth quarter of 2012/13, net sales were up by 6.8%
Fourth quarter 2012/13 In the fourth quarter of 2012/13, net sales were up by 6.8% to US$200.7 mn compared with US$187.9 mn in the corresponding period of the previous year.
However, the company’s net income was down by 6.8%
However, the company’s net income (excluding minority interests) was down by 6.8% to US$10.5 mn compared with US$11.3 mn in the corresponding period a year earlier.
In the whole of 2012/13, net sales were up by 1.3%
2012/13 In the whole of 2012/13, net sales were up by 1.3% to US$714.0 mn from US$705.1 mn in the previous year.
The company’s net income, meanwhile, soared by 44.8%
The company’s net income (excluding minority interests), meanwhile, soared by 44.8% to US$16.6 mn compared with US$11.5 mn in 2011/12.
VF Corporation has announced results for the second quarter of 2013
VF CORPORATION The USA-based clothing company VF Corporation has announced results for the second quarter of its 2013 financial year. The quarter ended on June 29, 2013.
Revenues in the quarter were up by 4%
Revenues in the quarter were up by 4% to US$2,220.4 mn compared with US$2,141.8 mn in the corresponding period one year earlier.
The increase reflected The increase in revenues reflected growth in three of the company’s growth in three of the com- five business units—namely Sportswear, Outdoor & Action Sports and pany’s five business units Jeanswear. VF refers to these business units as “coalitions”. The fastest increase was a 14% rise in the Sportswear unit
The fastest increase was a 14% rise, to US$133.5 mn, in the Sportswear unit—which includes the Nautica brand, as well as the Kipling brand in North America.
Revenues in the Outdoor & Action Sports unit were up by 6%—
Revenues in the Outdoor & Action Sports unit—which includes the brands Eagle Creek, Eastpak, JanSport, Kipling, Lucy, Napapijri, Smartwool, The North Face, Timberland and Vans—were up by 6% to US$1,103.6 mn.
—and in the Jeanswear unit by 3%
Meanwhile, revenues in the Jeanswear unit—which includes the Lee, Riders and Wranglers brands—were up by 3% to US$611.7 mn.
By contrast, revenues in the Contemporary Brands unit were down by 9%—
By contrast, revenues in the Contemporary Brands unit—which consists of the brands 7 For All Mankind, Ella Moss and Splendid—were down by 9% to US$98.6 mn.
—and in the Imagewear unit by 4%
Revenues in the Imagewear unit were down by 4% to US$241.8 mn.
Revenues in the “other” category were US$31.1 mn
Revenues which come under the company’s “other” category were valued at US$31.1 mn.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
87
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
VF’s net income was down by 11%
Business update
Meanwhile, VF’s net income (excluding minority interests) in the quarter was down by 11% to US$138.2 mn compared with US$155.3 mn in the corresponding period of 2012.
INVESTMENTS
Teijin Aramid will invest ¥4.5 bn (US$45.0 mn) in developing a new meta-aramid fibre and building a new manufacturing facility at its existing site in Ayutthaya Province, Thailand
TEIJIN ARAMID WILL INVEST ¥4.5 BN IN DEVELOPING A NEW META-ARAMID FIBRE AND BUILDING A NEW MANUFACTURING FACILITY IN THAILAND Teijin Aramid—a Netherlands-based specialist in aramid fibres and a subsidiary of Japan-based Teijin Group—will invest ¥4.5 bn (US$45.0 mn) in developing a new meta-aramid fibre and building a new manufacturing facility at its existing site in Ayutthaya Province, Thailand. Teijin Aramid claims that the new meta-aramid fibre will have a higher level of heat resistance than any existing meta-aramid fibre, as well as excellent dyeability. The new meta-aramid fibre will be suitable for use in the manufacture of protective apparel.
The facility will develop the new meta-aramid fibre, and will start producing it in July 2015
The facility will be dedicated to the development and manufacture of the new meta-aramid fibre.
The development of the new meta-aramid fibre will “strengthen Teijin’s competitiveness” in Asia as demand for such fibres in the region is growing as safety regulations become more stringent
When news of the investment was announced, the group executive officer and general manager of Teijin Aramid’s high performance fibres unit, Masaya Endo, commented that the development of the new meta-aramid fibre would “strengthen Teijin’s competitiveness in the emerging economies of Asia”.
Construction of the facility will start in December 2013, and the fibre will go into production in July 2015.
He added that demand for heat resistant and flame resistant fibre in the region is growing as safety regulations become more stringent.
JOINT VENTURES, COOPERATION, LICENSING AND DISTRIBUTION BURLINGTON INDUSTRIES HAS WON A CONTRACT FROM THE US AIR FORCE RELATING TO THE SUPPLY OF MICRODENIER POLYESTER FABRIC Burlington Industries has Burlington Industries—a USA-based textile manufacturer and a won a contract from the division of International Textile Group (ITG)—has won a contract US Air Force to supply from the US Air Force relating to the supply of microdenier polyester microdenier polyester fabric fabric. The contract is valued at US$5.3 mn. 88
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
The company will manufacture the fabric at its facility and supply it to the US Air Force, which will use it in the production of shorts for use by its members
Under the terms of the contract, Burlington Industries will manufacture the fabric at its facility in North Carolina, USA, and supply it to the US Air Force.
The fabric is 35% lighter than the fabric currently used to make the shorts
The fabric is 35% lighter than the fabric which is currently used to manufacture the shorts worn by members of the US Air Force.
Also, it is highly breathable, has moisture wicking properties—
Also, the fabric is highly breathable and has moisture wicking properties. As a result, it helps to keep the wearer cool, dry and comfortable during physical activity.
—and is stain resistant
In addition, the fabric is stain resistant. Therefore shorts made from the fabric are particularly suitable for use during outdoor physical training exercises when they may come into contact with grass or mud.
The US Air Force is improving its training programme and felt that its training uniform should include more technical functions
The US Air Force decided to update the fabric which it uses to manufacture its physical training shorts because it is in the process of improving its physical training programme, and felt that its physical training uniform should be updated to include a greater number of technical functions.
Since the start of 2013, Burlington Industries has won seven contracts from the US military
Since the start of 2013, Burlington Industries has won seven contracts from the US military which, in total, are worth approximately US$236.0 mn.
Columbia Sportswear has entered into an agreement with Chogori India Retail
The US Air Force will use the fabric in the production of shorts for use by its members during physical training exercises.
COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR HAS ENTERED INTO A DISTRIBUTION AGREEMENT WITH CHOGORI INDIA RETAIL Columbia Sportswear—a USA-based retailer of outdoor apparel—has entered into a distribution agreement with Chogori India Retail, a distribution and retail company based in India.
The latter will be the Under the terms of the agreement, Chogori India Retail will act distributor of Columbia as the exclusive distributor of Columbia Sportswear products in Sportswear products in India India. Chogori India Retail was chosen as it has over ten years’ experience in building consumer brands, and it also works with ten other outdoor apparel brands in India © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Columbia Sportswear selected Chogori India Retail as its distribution partner in India as the company has over ten years’ experience in building consumer brands in the country. Chogori India Retail acts as a retailer or distributor for ten other outdoor apparel brands in India.
89
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
ICONIX INDIA HAS ENTERED INTO A LICENSING AGREEMENT WITH FUTURE LIFESTYLE FASHIONS RELATING TO THE DISTRIBUTION OF THE UMBRO BRAND IN INDIA Iconix India has entered into Iconix India has entered into a licensing agreement with Future a licensing agreement with Lifestyle Fashions relating to the distribution of the Umbro brand in Future Lifestyle Fashions India. Iconix India is a division of Iconix Brand Group, and responsible for licensing the group’s brands in India
Iconix India is the Indian division of Iconix Brand Group—a USA-based brand licensing company which owns the Umbro brand. It is responsible for the licensing of Iconix Brand Group’s apparel and home brands in India.
Future Lifestyle Fashions Future Lifestyle Fashions is the retail division of Future Group, an operates a chain of discount India-based company which operates a chain of discount department department stores stores. Future Lifestyle Fashions will sell Umbro branded sportswear in its own retail stores in India and in other company brand outlets
Under the terms of the agreement, Future Lifestyle Fashions will sell Umbro branded sportswear in its own retail stores in India.
There is increasing demand for branded sportswear in India and a growing trend for wearing branded sportswear as casual wear, as well as a growing interest in sports
Iconix Brand Group decided to launch the Umbro brand in India in response to an increase in demand for branded sportswear in the country, and a growing trend among Indian consumers for wearing branded sportswear as casual wear.
There is said to be a gap in demand and supply of branded sportswear in India and so Umbro will help to fill this gap
When news of the agreement was announced, the chief executive officer (CEO) of Future Group, Rakesh Biyani, said: “The Indian fashion market has seen a surge in demand for sportswear in the last couple of years, but there is still a gap in demand and supply of branded sportswear in the country. Umbro will help us to fill in this gap and provide our customers with choices in sportswear.”
It will also sell Umbro branded sportswear in brand outlet stores owned by other companies.
Also, there is growing interest in the country in sports such as football, hockey and tennis.
MACY’S HAS ENTERED INTO A LICENSING AGREEMENT WITH LIDS SPORTS GROUP RELATING TO THE OPENING OF NEW SPORTSWEAR CONCESSIONS INSIDE MACY’S STORES Macy’s7 has entered into a licensing agreement with Lids Sports Macy’s and Lids have entered into an agreement Group relating to the opening of new sportswear concessions8 inside relating to the opening of Macy’s stores. Macy’s is a USA-based department store retailer while new sportswear concessions Lids Sports Group is a USA-based company which operates stores that inside Macy’s stores sell licensed sportswear. 7
See also Macy’s will expand its offering of sportswear and activewear in a bid to attract a greater number of millennial consumers on page 77 of this issue.
8
A concession is a small retail outlet which is located in an allocated area of another store, usually a department store. 90
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
The concessions sell licensed sportswear branded with the logos of American professional and collegiate sports teams, allowing customers to buy sportswear branded with the logos of the sports teams associated with the local area
The concessions are called “Locker Room by Lids” and sell licensed sportswear which is branded with the logos of American professional and collegiate sports teams.
The concessions are being piloted in 25 Macy’s stores, beginning in November 2013
The concessions are being piloted in 25 Macy’s stores, beginning in November 2013, but will be launched officially in another 175 Macy’s stores in spring 2014.
Unifi has entered into a manufacturing and distribution agreement with Palmetto Synthetics relating to Unifi’s Repreve polyester staple fibre
Repreve is made from polyester derived from post-consumer PET bottles
When the agreement was announced, the chief merchandising officer at Macy’s, Jeff Genette, explained that the concessions will provide customers who live close to each Macy’s store with the opportunity to purchase sportswear branded with the logos of the sports teams associated with the local area.
UNIFI HAS ENTERED INTO A MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION AGREEMENT WITH PALMETTO SYNTHETICS Unifi has entered into a manufacturing and distribution agreement with Palmetto Synthetics relating to Unifi’s Repreve polyester staple fibre. Unifi, based in the USA, is one of the world’s largest producers of textured yarns while Palmetto Synthetics is a USA-based manufacturer of synthetic fibres. Repreve polyester staple fibre is made entirely from polyester obtained by recycling polymer from post-consumer polyethylene terephthalate (PET) bottles.
Under the terms of the agreement, Palmetto Synthetics will purchase Palmetto will buy Repreve chips from Unifi and process Repreve polyester chips from Unifi and process them into Repreve polyester staple fibre. them into Repreve fibre The fibre has been awarded Certified Responsible Source status by SCS Global Services
The fibre has been awarded Certified Responsible Source status by SCS Global Services—an independent certification organisation based in the USA. Certified Responsible Source is awarded to polyester products which have been produced using environmentally friendly and socially responsible manufacturing techniques.
There is increasing demand from US manufacturers for yarns made using recycled materials and which have been produced in the USA
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
According to the vice-president of Palmetto Synthetics, David Poston, there is increasing demand from US manufacturers for yarns which are made using recycled materials and which have been produced in the USA. Palmetto Synthetics’ agreement with Unifi enables it to provide US manufacturers with such yarns in staple fibre form. 91
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
NEW BRANDS
A new brand of performance apparel called Toren, founded by Ethan Wishnick, will be launched in spring 2014
A NEW BRAND OF PERFORMANCE APPAREL CALLED TOREN WILL BE LAUNCHED IN SPRING 2014 A new brand of performance apparel, called Toren, will be launched in spring 2014. Toren was founded and developed by an entrepreneur and outdoor enthusiast, Ethan Wishnick, who is based in New York City, USA.
Mr Wishnick developed the brand after he found that most items of performance apparel on the market had an unflattering fit and were expensive
Mr Wishnick decided to develop the brand after he found that most items of performance apparel available on the market had an unflattering fit and were expensive.
The company will sell apparel at competitive prices, and will make it available for purchase solely via an online store to minimise overhead costs
The company will sell the apparel at competitive prices and will make it available for purchase solely via an online store in order to minimise its overhead costs.
It will encourage consumers to share their opinions about performance apparel via the Toren website
In the months leading up to the launch of Toren, the company will actively encourage consumers to share their opinions and preferences regarding performance apparel via its website, and via Toren’s blog and social media accounts.
Toren wants to know which technical features are most important to consumers and the colours and styles they prefer
In particular, Toren is interested in gathering information as to the technical features which are most important to consumers and the colours and styles they prefer. The company believes that it will be able to cater to the needs of consumers more fully by gathering this information directly from them.
The first product to be launched by Toren will be a waterproof jacket for use in extreme weather conditions
The first product to be launched by Toren will be a waterproof jacket for use in extreme weather conditions. The jacket will be made using a waterproof and breathable fabric produced by Toray, a Japan-based manufacturer of high performance textiles and synthetic fibres.
Following the launch, Toren will release other products
Following the launch of this jacket, Toren plans to release a number of other products—including an insulated hard shell jacket and a wetsuit.
92
Items of Toren branded performance apparel, by contrast, will have a tailored fit and the most expensive items will retail at no more than US$300.
In addition, having an online presence will enable the company to interact with consumers and engage with them in real time.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
NEW STORES JACK WOLFSKIN HAS OPENED ITS FIRST STORE IN SOUTH AMERICA Jack Wolfskin has opened its Jack Wolfskin9, a Germany-based retailer of outdoor apparel, has first store in South America opened its first store in South America. The store is located in Chile and was opened in partnership with Heightsport, a sportswear and outdoor apparel retailer
The store is located in Lake Villarrica, Pucón, Chile, and was opened on July 13, 2013.
Latin America is popular with outdoor enthusiasts, and the growing tourism industry in Chile provides an ideal starting point for Jack Wolfskin to bring its products to the market
When the opening of the new store was announced, the chief executive officer (CEO) of Jack Wolfskin, Michael Rupp, said: “Latin America attracts countless outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world every year with its breathtaking and varied scenery, providing us with the perfect opportunity to tap into an international audience. In particular, the growing tourism industry in Chile provides the ideal starting point to bring our innovative products to the South American market.”
Jack Wolfskin will open a second store in Chile in 2014
Meanwhile, Jack Wolfskin plans to open a second store in South America in October 2014. The store will be located in Santiago, Chile.
In the future, Heightsport plans to sell Jack Wolfskin products in its own stores and to open concessions in department stores
In the future, Heightsport plans to sell Jack Wolfskin products in its own Heightsport branded stores across South America and to open Jack Wolfskin concessions inside department stores in the region.
It was opened in partnership with Heightsport, a South American retailer of sportswear and outdoor apparel.
MATALAN HAS OPENED A NEW CHAIN OF SPORTSWEAR AND SPORTS EQUIPMENT STORES IN THE UK CALLED SPORTING PRO Matalan has opened a new Matalan—a UK-based retailer of value fashion apparel—has opened chain of sports stores called a new chain of sportswear and sports equipment stores, called Sporting Pro, in the UK. Sporting Pro in the UK The company has opened an online store and opened its first five physical stores
The company opened an online Sporting Pro store at the end of September 2013, and opened its first five physical stores during October 2013, in Colchester, Coleraine, Harlow, Stockton and Walsall.
A further five stores will be A further five stores will be opened by the end of 2013, in opened by the end of 2013 Knaresborough, Leeds, Sheffield, Stockport and Wakefield. 9
A profile of Jack Wolfskin starts on page 61 of this issue.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
93
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
Matalan hopes to open 100 stores by the end of 2018
In the future, Matalan hopes to increase the number of Sporting Pro stores to at least 100 by the end of 2018.
Sporting Pro stores sell sportswear, footwear and sports equipment from several leading sports brands
Sporting Pro stores sell an extensive range of sportswear, footwear and sports equipment from a number of leading sports brands—including Adidas, Asics, Babolat, Canterbury, Head, Kappa, New Balance, Nike, Raleigh, Reebok, Speedo, Under Armour and Wilson.
In the physical stores, similar products are grouped into sections
In the physical stores, products which are similar are grouped into sections in order to make the stores easy for consumers to navigate.
Also, the stores have a facility which can make custom insoles for consumers, and consumers can have their running techniques assessed by fitness specialists
Also, the stores include a facility which produces custom insoles for consumers by moulding the insoles to the shape of their feet.
Matalan saw a gap in the UK retail market for such a sports store, and it aims to fill a gap left by the closure of JJB Sports stores in 2012
Matalan decided to launch the new chain of Sporting Pro stores as it recognised that there was a gap in the UK retail market for a sports store which was “imaginative” and “offered consumers something different”.
Sports Direct is in discussions with Tesco relating to the opening of Sports Direct stores inside three of Tesco’s largest hypermarkets As the two retailers are non-competing companies, they are both set to benefit from the arrangement
In addition, the stores provide consumers with the opportunity to have their running techniques assessed. A fitness specialist watches the consumer run on a treadmill, and then offers the consumer advice on how to improve the way in which he or she moves.
Also, it aims to fill a gap left in the market following the closure of JJB Sports10 stores in 2012. SPORTS DIRECT IS IN DISCUSSIONS WITH TESCO RELATING TO THE OPENING OF SPORTS DIRECT STORES INSIDE TESCO HYPERMARKETS Sports Direct is in discussions with Tesco relating to the opening of Sports Direct stores inside three of Tesco’s largest hypermarkets11 in the UK. Sports Direct is a UK-based sporting goods retailer while Tesco is a UK-based supermarket retailer. Sports Direct and Tesco would benefit mutually from such an arrangement as they are non-competing companies. In particular, Sports Direct would benefit by gaining access to a new group of consumers who would be exposed to Sports Direct products while shopping at Tesco.
10
See also JJB Sports has entered into administration, “Business update”, Performance Apparel Markets, No 42, 3rd quarter 2012, page 65. 11
A hypermarket is a very large retail store which sells a wide variety of products, including clothing, electrical appliances and groceries. 94
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Business update
In particular, the arrangement would help to maximise the efficiency of Tesco’s hypermarkets which have excess space
Tesco would benefit because the arrangement would help to maximise the efficiency of its hypermarkets. The company has excess space in its hypermarkets—some of which cover an area of up to 120,000 ft2 (11,148 m2)—and has struggled to make use of it. Also, the popularity of online retailing has reduced the need for retailers to operate very large physical stores.
Recently, Tesco allocated an area in one of its hypermarkets in the Czech Republic to Sports Direct
Recently, Tesco allocated an area of approximately 30,000 ft2 in one of its hypermarkets in the Czech Republic to Sports Direct. However, the two companies have declined to comment on the success of this venture.
The two companies are continuing to discuss the new strategy
Sports Direct and Tesco are continuing to discuss the new strategy.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
95
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Glossary: terms and definitions Absorbency under load: the weight of fluid in grams which can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn or fabric which has been subject to a pressure of 0.25 lb/inch2 before wetting. Acetate: a type of fibre chemically derived from cellulose. Acquisition layer: an absorbent layer close to the coverstock in a nonwoven hygiene product (such as a diaper) through which fluid enters. Typically, the fluid is then transmitted to a distribution layer. Antibacterial: resistance against bacteria. Aramid: the generic name for a special group of synthetic fibres (aromatic polyamide) having high strength; examples are Kevlar from DuPont and Twaron from Teijin Twaron. Artificial fibres: see cellulosic fibres. Ballotini: small glass beads which are normally used in reflective paints but which can also be incorporated into fabrics. Bicomponent fabric: a fabric with two layers. Bicomponent fibre, bicomponent yarn: a fibre or yarn which has two different types of continuous filament components. The two components may, for example, be different polymers which shrink differently. (See also multicompartment fibres and yarns and multicomponent fibres and yarns.) Bio-feedback: the measurement of a subject’s quantifiable bodily functions such as blood pressure, heart rate, skin temperature, sweat gland activity and muscle tension and the conveyance of those measurements to the subject in real time to raise his awareness. Bi-shrinkage yarn: a yarn containing two different types of filament, which have different shrinkages. Bullet resistant material: a material which resists penetration from certain high velocity projectiles such as bullets from firearms. (See also bullet proof material.) Bullet proof material: a material which provides complete protection against all types of high velocity projectiles or against multiple hits in the same location from such projectiles. Carbon nanotube: A nanotube made entirely of carbon. Carbon nanotubes are typically up to 100 times as strong as steel. Cellulosic fibres: fibres made or chemically derived from a naturally occurring cellulose raw material. Charmeuse: a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave constructed so that the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish—which is lustrous and reflective—whereas the back has a dull finish. The fabric can be made of silk, or a synthetic substitute such as polyester. Chemiluminescence products: products which glow when one liquid chemical containing special fluorescers interacts with another (an activator). Circular jersey: fabric produced on circular knitting machines. (See also circular knitting, weft knitting.) 96
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Circular knitting: a fabric production technique in which fabric is knitted in the form of a tube. Usually, this is subsequently slit and finished as open width fabric. However, in the case of smaller width machines, the circular knitting process is used to make body width tubes which need not be slit, thus avoiding the need for a seam and thereby increasing wearer comfort. These machines can be further modified to knit body blanks which incorporate some shaping and are separated by a draw-thread. Clo value: the amount of insulation required to keep a resting subject with a metabolism of 50 kcal/metre2/hour comfortable for an indefinite period of time at a temperature of 21°C (70°F). CM: cut and make. (See also CMT.) CMT: cut, make and trim. A system whereby a manufacturer produces garments for a customer by cutting fabric provided by the customer and sewing the cut fabric into garments in accordance with the customer’s specification. In general, companies operating on a CMT basis do not become involved in the design of the garment but are merely concerned with its manufacture. Colourway: one of several different combinations of colours in which a given pattern is printed on items such as fabrics and wallpapers. Composite (fabric): a fabric structure, usually nonwoven, comprising several layers. Composite (fibre reinforced): see fibre reinforced composite. Comonomer: one of the compounds which constitute a copolymer. Conjugate fibres and yarns: see bicomponent fibres and yarns. Continuous filament: see filament. Copolymer: a polymer in which there are two or more repeat units. Core-spun yarn: a yarn consisting of an inner core yarn surrounded by staple fibres. A core-spun yarn combines the strength and/or elongation of the core thread and the characteristics of the staple fibres which form the surface. Core-twisted yarn: a yarn produced by combining one fibre or filament with another during a twisting process. Count: a measure of linear density. (See also decitex, denier, tex.) Covered yarn: a yarn made by feeding one yarn through one or more revolving spindles carrying the other (wrapping) yarn. Covered yarn may also be produced using air-jet technology. Cover factor (knitted fabrics): a number which indicates the extent to which the area of a knitted fabric is covered by yarn. It is also an indication of the relative looseness or tightness of the knitting. Cover factor (woven fabrics): a number which indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor. Under the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the number of threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn count.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
97
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Cradle to cradle: a term, adapted from the expression “cradle to grave”, which is used to describe a model in which processes are sustainable and considerate of life in general. In one cradle to cradle model, all materials used in industrial or commercial processes—such as metals, fibres and dyes—are seen to fall into one of two categories, namely technical nutrients and biological nutrients. Technical nutrients are non-toxic, non-harmful synthetic materials which have no negative effects on the natural environment, and can be used over and over again without losing their integrity or quality rather than being “downcycled” into lesser products that ultimately become waste. Biological nutrients are organic materials which, once used, can be disposed of in any natural environment and decompose into the soil, thereby providing food for small life forms without affecting the natural environment. Decitex: a unit of the tex system. A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of yarn. Decitex per filament (dpf): the average decitex of each filament in a multifilament yarn. Dendrimer: a synthetic polymer with a tree-like branching structure. Denier: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of yarn. Disperse dye: a substantially water-insoluble dye which has substantivity for one or more hydrophobic fibres and is usually applied from a fine aqueous dispersion. Disperse dyes are used mainly to dye polyester but they can also be used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, and acrylic fibres. Distribution layer: a layer in a nonwoven hygiene product (such as a diaper) which distributes fluid to a superabsorbent and/or fluff pulp material, where it is absorbed. Dobby: a mechanism for controlling the vertical position of heald shafts on a loom, so as to selectively raise some warp threads while leaving others depressed. The use of a dobby facilitates the weaving of a fabric which has a more complex structure than that achievable by using cams and tappets to raise and lower heald shafts. However, it can not offer weaves as complex as those obtained by using a jacquard mechanism. Dobby weave: a type of weave produced on a loom equipped with a dobby. Dope: see spinning solution. Dope dyeing: a method of dyeing in which a dye is mixed with a polymer before the polymer is extruded through fine holes in a spinneret to form fibres and yarns. (See also mass coloration.) Dpf: see decitex per filament. Drape: a cover sheet. Dry spinning: in the dry spinning process, polymer is dissolved in a solvent before being spun into warm air where the solvent evaporates. This leaves the fibrous polymer ready for drawing. Dry spun: a fibre or filament produced by the dry spinning process. Dtex: see decitex. Durable water repellent finish: a finish which bonds to the fibres of a textile without filling the spaces between those fibres. The finish does not coat the surface of the textile and therefore does not impair breathability. DWR: see durable water repellent finish.
98
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Elastane, elastomeric: a fibre, often made of polyurethane, possessing inherent stretch properties (also known as spandex, especially in the USA). Elastolefin: a fibre composed of at least 95% (by mass) of macromolecules—partially cross-linked—made up of ethylene and at least one other olefin. When it is stretched to one and a half times its original length and released, the fibre recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length. Elastomer: a polymer which has a high extensibility, together with rapid and substantially complete elastic recovery (most fibres formed from elastomers have breaking elongations in excess of 100%). End (in weaving): an individual warp yarn. Fabric: a manufactured assembly of fibres and/or yarns which has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength. False-twist texturing: a process in which a single filament yarn is twisted, set and untwisted. When yarns made from thermoplastic materials are heat-set in a twisted condition, the deformation of the filaments is “memorised” and the yarn is given greater bulk. FDY: fully drawn yarn. Ferrofluid: a fluid which becomes highly polarised in the presence of a magnetic field. Fibre: a material used to make textiles which is flexible, fine, and has a high ratio of length to thickness. Fibre reinforced composite (FRC): a product formed by intimately combining two or more discrete physical phases—usually a solid matrix, such as a resin, and a fibrous reinforcing component. Filament: a fibre of indefinite length. Filamentation: breakage of filaments, resulting in the creation of a fibrous or hairy appearance on the surface of a yarn package or fabric. Fill: see weft. Flame resistant: a term used to describe fibres, yarns or fabrics which resist burning. Flame retardant: a substance added or a treatment applied to a material in order to suppress, significantly reduce or delay the propagation of flame. Fleece (fabric): pile or napped fabric with a deep, soft, woolly-style surface. Fleece (garment): outerwear jacket made from fleece fabric. Fluorescent material: a material which absorbs certain wavelengths of light and emits or reflects wavelengths that are longer than those which are absorbed. Four-way stretch: the ability to stretch and recover vertically, horizontally, and from any angle (see also two-way stretch). FOY: fully oriented yarn. FR: see flame retardant.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
99
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Free swell absorbency: the weight of fluid in grams which can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn or fabric. Gpd (g/denier): a unit of force divided by the weight per unit length of a fibre, yarn or rope. Granulation: the process of forming new tissues. Hard shell: a hard shell is an outerwear garment which protects the wearer from the elements. It is typically made from a tough, abrasion-resistant material such as nylon. (See also soft shell.) High loft: textiles which are three dimensional, being thick but very light. The term is also applied to the fillings used in outdoor clothing to denote those which retain a large volume of still air. Hydroentanglement: see spunlacing. Hydrophilic: a term used to describe a substance which tends to mix with or to be wetted by water. Hydrophobic: a term used to describe a substance which tends to repel or not to be wetted by water. Hydrostatic head: hydrostatic head is a way of describing the pressure applied to a material in terms of the height of an equivalent column of water. Because the pressure exerted is determined solely by the height of the column, it is possible to use this figure to quantify how waterproof a fabric is. For example, a fabric which can withstand a hydrostatic head of one metre will resist the passage of water until the pressure of the water exceeds this value. Hygroscopic: a term used to describe a substance which attracts moisture from the atmosphere. Imagewear: a term used to describe apparel which is used to project a corporate identity. Examples include workwear, career wear and uniforms. Industrial textiles: a category of technical textiles used as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into final products. Islands-in-the-sea: a type of bicomponent yarn in which one component polymer is formed, during extrusion, as longitudinal strands within the matrix of a second polymer. ISPO: International Trade Fair for Sports Equipment & Fashion, held in Munich, Germany. KPa (kiloPascal): the pressure produced by a force of 1,000 Newtons applied, uniformly distributed, over an area of 1 m2. Used in textile testing as a measure of bursting pressure; 1 kPa = 6.89 lbf/inch2. Laminate: a fabric which comprises two or more layers bonded together. Many waterproof breathable fabrics are made by laminating a textile to a film or a membrane. Layering: layering involves the use of: a comfort or base layer; an insulation layer; and a protection layer. The base layer comprises clothing worn next to the skin. Perspiration drying on the skin can cause chilling. However, this effect can be minimised by wearing a base layer which wicks moisture away from the skin. The insulation layer is the middle layer in the system and enables the wearer to regulate his or her body temperature by putting on or taking off garments as necessary. Insulation layer garments should be lightweight and warm, and should dry quickly in order to retain body heat. They should also let perspiration vapour escape from the comfort layer underneath, and retain their insulating properties even when wet. The protection layer is an outer layer of waterproof and windproof fabric. It should be highly breathable, so as to allow perspiration vapour to escape easily from the comfort layer and the insulation layer.
100
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Linear density: the weight per unit length of a yarn or fibre. Units of linear density include decitex, denier and tex. LOY: low orientation yarn. Lycra: brand name used by DuPont for its spandex or elastane fibre. Lyocell: the generic name given to a new family of cellulosic fibres and yarns that have been produced by solvent spinning. The process is widely regarded as being environmentally friendly, and the product offers a number of advantages over traditional cellulosic fibres. Man-in-Simulant Test (MIST): a test which determines whether materials that are breathable can be used to reduce heat stress to emergency responders—such as law enforcement personnel—who might use these ensembles over a longer duration in low challenge exposures and non-IDLH (immediately dangerous to life and health) atmospheres. Man-made fibres: fibres which are manufactured and which do not occur in nature. The term man-made fibres is also used to refer to man-made filament yarns. Man-made filaments: filaments which are manufactured and which do not occur in nature. Mass coloration: a method of colouring man-made fibres by incorporating a dye or colorant in the spinning solution or melt before extrusion into filaments. Also known as dope dyeing. Mercerisation: a treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali, in which fibres are swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product. Microfibre: a fibre or filament with a linear density approximately below 1 decitex. Some commercial fibres or filaments as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfibres by their producers. (See also microfilament.) Microfilament: a continuous filament with a linear density approximately below 1 decitex. Some commercial filaments as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfilaments by their producers. (See also microfibre.) Micron (micrometre): one millionth of a metre (10-6 metres). Micro-organisms: living organisms of microscopic size such as bacteria or fungi which produce infection and disease. Microyarn: a yarn consisting of several microfilaments. Modal: a type of cellulosic fibre having improved strength and modulus when wet. Modulus: a measure of the ability of a fibre to resist extension. It is the ratio between the stress (or load) applied on the fibre to the elongation (strain) resulting from the application of that stress. Moisture management (in textiles and garments): the process by which moisture is moved away from the skin and dispersed through a fabric to its outer surface, from where moisture can evaporate, leaving both the skin and garment dry. Moisture regain: the percentage of moisture in a textile material brought into equilibrium with a standard atmosphere after partial drying, calculated as a percentage of the moisture-free weight. Monofilament yarn: a yarn consisting of a single filament.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
101
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Monolithic (membrane): continuous polymer layer. mPa (megapascal): the pressure exerted by a force of 1 Newton applied over an area of 1 mm2. Multicompartment fibre, multicompartment yarn: fibre or yarn formed from multicomponent (or conjugate) fibres by separately extruding fibres of different polymers. While still in the molten state, the fibres are combined and blown with fluid jets. This produces vortices within the fibre. As the fibre is drawn, the vortices can, under the right conditions, be converted to hollow structures running along the length of the fibre. The compartments so formed may lie side by side within the fibre or contained within it in an annular structure. Multicomponent fibre, multicomponent yarn: a yarn which has two or more different continuous filament components. (See also multicompartment fibre, multicompartment yarn and bicomponent fibre, bicomponent yarn.) Multifilament yarn: a yarn made up of more than one filament. Nanometre: one billionth of a metre (10-9 metres). Nanotechnology: research and technology development at the atomic, molecular or macromolecular levels (in the 1-100 nanometre range) aimed at creating and using materials which have novel properties and functions. Nanotube: a tube-like structure of sub-microscopic size. Nanowire: a wire measuring one nanometre (10-9 metres or one billionth of a metre) in diameter. Nip: a line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces which move so as to compress and/or control the velocity of textile material passed between them. Nonwoven: (according to ISO 9092:1988) a manufactured sheet, web or batt of directionally or randomly orientated fibres, bonded by friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, excluding paper and products which are woven, knitted, tufted, stitchbonded incorporating binding yarns or filaments, or felted by wet-milling, whether or not additionally needled. Novoloid: a manufactured fibre which contains at least 85% by weight of a cross-linked novolac (phenolic resin). Nylon: another word for polyamide. Oleophilic: a propensity to absorb oil. Pa (Pascal): the pressure produced by a force of 1 Newton applied, uniformly distributed, over an area of 1 m2. Used in textile testing as a measure of bursting pressure. Padding (finishing): the impregnation of a substrate with a liquor or paste followed by squeezing—usually by passing the substrate through a nip—to leave a specific quantity of liquor or paste on the substrate. Partially oriented yarn: a continuous synthetic filament made by extruding a polymer so that a substantial degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but so that further substantial molecular orientation is still possible. The resulting yarn will usually have to be drawn in a subsequent process in order to orient the molecular structure fully and optimise the yarn’s tensile properties. PBI: polybenzimidazole, a highly flame resistant fibre with low shrinkage properties when exposed to flame. PBT: polybutylterephthalate, a type of polyester fibre used to provide fabrics with durable stretch properties. 102
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
PET: polyethylene terephthalate, the most common form of polyester. Photovoltaic technology: a technology used to convert sunlight directly into electricity. Pick: a single weft thread in a woven fabric. Pill, pilling: the entangling of fibres during washing, dry cleaning, testing or in wear to form balls or pills which stand proud of the surface of a fabric and which are of such density that light will not pass through them (so that they cast a shadow). PLA: polylactic acid, a synthetic polymer formed from plant-based material and used as the starting material for a new range of melt spun synthetic fibres, including Ingeo from Cargill Dow. Polyamide: another word for nylon. Polylactic acid: see PLA. Polymer: a long molecule made up from many smaller repeat molecules; the following polymers are the main ones used to make synthetic fibres: polyacrylic; polyamide (nylon); polyester; polypropylene; and polyurethane. Polymerisation: the process of linking small chemical units together to form larger molecules. Powered exoskeleton: a powered mobile machine which consists primarily of a skeleton-like framework worn by a person together with a power supply which supplies at least part of the activation energy required for limb movement. POY: see partially oriented yarn. Prepolymer: a polymer of relatively low molecular weight—usually intermediate between that of the monomer and the final polymer or resin—which may be mixed with compounding additives and which is capable of being hardened by further polymerisation during or after a forming process. Push-pull fabrics: bicomponent fabrics composed of a non-absorbent hydrophobic material, usually polyester, on the inside (worn next to the skin) and an absorbent hydrophilic material, usually nylon, on the outside. Raschel: a two-needle warp knitting system. Rayon: a term used to describe fibres made from regenerated cellulose. (See also viscose, modal and acetate.) Reaction spinning: one of three types of production process used to make elastane (the other two being dry spinning and wet spinning) in which fibres are formed through a chemical reaction, and polymerisation and formation of filaments occur simultaneously as the prepolymer is extruded in a reagent bath. Retention: the weight of fluid remaining after a freely swollen fibre, yarn or fabric is subjected to a pressure of 0.5 lb/inch2. Rip stop: a lightweight woven fabric containing corded yarns spaced at regular intervals—in both the warp and the weft—which form squares on the surface of the fabric in order to prevent a tear in the fabric from spreading. Common applications include parachutes, outerwear and activewear. Sanforizing: a controlled compressive shrinkage process. The word Sanforized is a registered trade mark and can be used to describe fabrics which meet defined and approved standards of washing shrinkage.
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
103
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Scouring: the treatment of textiles in aqueous or other solutions in order to remove natural fats, waxes, proteins and other constituents, as well as dirt, oil and other impurities. Shape memory polymers (SMPs): chemical compounds which have one form at a certain temperature, which can be given a different shape when subjected to a stimulus such as heat, and which, under certain conditions, can return to their original “memorised” form. Current textile research is focused on using shape memory polymers to create “smart” fabrics with protective and moisture management capabilities. Shed (weaving): an opening formed during weaving by raising some warp threads and lowering others to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine. Shedding: a motion in weaving whereby a shed is created to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine. Soft shell: a soft shell is an outerwear garment which performs the functions of two or more garments in traditional layering systems. It is soft to the touch, resistant to wind and water, and highly breathable. (See also hard shell.) Spandex: the generic name used in the USA to denote elastane fibre. Spinneret: a nozzle or plate provided with fine holes or slits through which a fibre-forming solution or melt is extruded during fibre manufacture. Spinning solution: a solution of fibre-forming polymer ready for extrusion through a spinneret. Sputtered: a material which has been subjected to sputtering. Sputtering: a process in which atoms, ions and molecules are ejected from the surface of a target material when it is irradiated by an ion beam. One application of sputtering is to exploit the conditions in which the ejected particles re-form on another substrate as a thin film or coating. For instance, thin metallic films are often applied in this way to electrically non-conductive substrates to give them conductive properties. Staple fibres (man-made): man-made fibres of predetermined short lengths, usually prepared by cutting or breaking filaments of the material into lengths suitable for their intended processing route. Sublimation: a process in which a substance changes directly from a solid to a gas when it is heated, without passing through the liquid state. Synthetic fibres: man-made fibres made from a polymer which has been produced artificially, in contrast to fibres made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose. The term synthetic fibres is also used to refer to synthetic filaments. Synthetic filaments: man-made filaments made from a polymer which has been produced artificially, in contrast to filaments made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose. Tactical vest: a bullet resistant vest worn by military personnel in combat environments. Its ability to resist the impact of bullets lies in the presence of hard plates which are strategically placed in the vest to prevent the wearer from injury. Technical textiles: textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance and functional properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. End uses include aerospace, industrial, marine, medical, military, safety and transport textiles, and geotextiles.
104
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Tenacity: a unit used to measure the strength of a fibre or yarn, usually calculated by dividing the breaking force by the linear density. Tencel: a brand name used by Lenzing for a cellulosic fibre first commercialised in the late 1990s by Courtaulds and generically known as lyocell. Tencel is stronger than viscose cellulosic fibre and is characterised by its softness and drape. Tensile strength (fibre): the longitudinal stress which can be applied to a fibre before it breaks. Tex: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn. Textured yarn: a continuous filament yarn which has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments. Texturing: a process during which a textured yarn is produced. Thermoplastic yarns: yarns which are deformable by applying heat and pressure without any accompanying change, and in which the deformation is reversible. Thermoregulation: regulation of body temperature. Ton: (in this publication) 1,000 kilograms. Tow: the name given to an untwisted assembly of a large number of filaments; tows are cut up to produce staple fibres. Tricot, warp knitted: a warp knitted fabric knitted with two full sets of warp threads, each set making a 1 and 1 lapping movement but in opposite directions. Additionally the term is now used generically to cover all types of warp knitted fabric made on tricot warp knitting machines. Two-way stretch: the ability to stretch and recover both vertically and horizontally. (See also four-way stretch.) Ultraviolet: see UV. UPF: ultraviolet protection factor. UV: ultraviolet. UVA: UVA (alpha) is long-wave UV (ultraviolet) radiation which penetrates deep into the skin. UVA radiation ranges from 315 to 400 nanometres (nm) in wavelength, and is known to cause skin cancer, skin blotching, wrinkles and premature ageing of the skin. UVB: UVB (beta) is short-wave UV (ultraviolet) radiation which ranges from 280 nm to 315 nm in wavelength. UVB radiation is much stronger than UVA radiation, and affects mainly outer skin layers. It is the most common cause of sunburn, but it also contributes to premature ageing of the skin, wrinkles and skin cancer. Viscose: the generic name for a type of cellulosic fibre obtained from wood cellulose. Warp: yarns which are incorporated along the length of a fabric. Warp knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric from a warp in which loops made from each warp thread are formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Warp knitting is characterised by the fact that each warp thread is fed more or less in line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. (See also weft knitting.)
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
105
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Glossary: terms and definitions
Weaving: the process of producing fabric by interlacing warp and weft yarns. Web: a sheet of fibres produced by a carding machine (carded web) or combing machine (combed web). Weft: yarns which are incorporated across the width of a fabric. Weft knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric in which the loops made by each weft thread are formed substantially across the width of the fabric. Weft knitting is characterised by the fact that each weft thread is fed more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced. Wet spinning: in the wet spinning process, the polymer solution (also known as “dope”) is spun into a spin bath containing a liquid chosen for its ability to extract the solvent from the dope. Wet spun: a fibre or filament produced by the wet spinning process. Wicking: a process whereby a textile material transports moisture away from a surface such as the skin. Wrapped yarn: see wrap-spun yarn. Wrap-spun yarn: a yarn consisting of a core wrapped with a binder. Yarn: a product of substantial length and relatively small cross-section consisting of fibres and/or filaments with or without twist.
106
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Index to Performance Apparel Markets
Index to Performance Apparel Markets No 1, 2nd quarter 2002 Fast track: a new publication for a rapidly expanding industry Product developments and innovations Moisture management fabrics Profile of Wellman: fibres for moisture management Business update No 2, 3rd quarter 2002 Fast track: sportswear provides inspiration for a wide range of apparel—from uniforms and workwear to high fashion Product developments and innovations Stretch fibres and fabrics Profile of RadiciSpandex: a specialist in elastane fibres Business update No 3, 4th quarter 2002 Fast track: performance apparel for winter 2002/03 Product developments and innovations High strength fibres and fabrics Profile of Teijin Twaron: a global leader in aramid fibre Business update No 4, 1st quarter 2003 Fast track: brand awareness Product developments and innovations Temperature control fabrics Profile of The North Face: a leader in outdoor performance apparel Business update No 5, 2nd quarter 2003 Fast track: ISPO Product developments and innovations Waterproof breathable fabrics Profile of Marmot: a leader in performance outerwear Business update No 6, 3rd quarter 2003 Fast track: Biomimicry Product developments and innovations Flame resistant fibres and fabrics Profile of Sparco: a leader in professional motor racing apparel Business update No 7, 4th quarter 2003 Fast track: tracking the US sports apparel industry Product developments and innovations Antimicrobial fibres and fabrics Profile of Columbia Sportswear: a leader in outdoor apparel Business update No 8, 1st quarter 2004 Fast track: the games of the XXVIII Olympiad Product developments and innovations High visibility apparel: technology for safety, comfort and style Profile of Alexandra: a leader in the supply of workwear Business update
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
No 9, 2nd quarter 2004 Fast track: ISPO Summer 2004 Product developments and innovations UV protective fibres and fabrics: function and fashion for a health-conscious age Profile of L-Fashion Group: a sportswear and outdoor clothing specialist Business update No 10, 3rd quarter 2004 Fast track: tracking the sporting goods industry in China Product developments and innovations Performance swimwear: high-tech swimsuits create waves Profile of Stretchtex International Fabrics: a leader in swimwear fabrics Business update No 11, 4th quarter 2004 Fast track: Adidas-Salomon cashes in on growing popularity of soccer Product developments and innovations Stain protective apparel: consumers splash out on easy-care clothing Profile of Ashworth: a supplier of golf-inspired apparel Business update No 12, 1st quarter 2005 Fast track: runaway success Product developments and innovations Microencapsulation: for enhanced textile performance Profile of Cognis: a leader in speciality textile treatments Business update No 13, 2nd quarter 2005 Fast track: Innovations at Avantex and Techtextil 2005 Product developments and innovations Smart and interactive textiles Profile of Nano-tex: a leader in nanotechnology-based textile treatments Business update No 14, 3rd quarter 2005 Fast track: tracking the leading players in sporting goods Product developments and innovations Anti-static technology in performance apparel Profile of W L Gore: a leader in performance outerwear fabrics Business update No 15, 4th quarter 2005 Fast track: tracking the counterfeit industry Product developments and innovations Performance apparel for skiing and snowboarding: making a more comfortable and safer experience Profile of Spyder Active Sports: a leader in performance ski wear Business update
107
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 No 16, 1st quarter 2006 Fast track: environmental issues for performance apparel: earth first, profits second Product developments and innovations Seamless knitting and stitch-free seaming technologies in performance apparel Profile of Bemis: a leader in bonded seam technology for stitch-free apparel Business update No 17, 2nd quarter 2006 Fast track: tracking the market for personal protective equipment Product developments and innovations Clothing at work: providing a better image Profile of Kwintet: a leading supplier of workwear Business update No 18, 3rd quarter 2006 Fast track: targeting women Product developments and innovations Surfwear and surf-inspired clothing Billabong International: a leading supplier of surfwear Business update No 19, 4th quarter 2006 Fast track: tracking the sportswear industry in the UK Product developments and innovations Flame resistant fibres and fabrics Lion Apparel: a leading supplier of protective apparel for firefighters Business update No 20, 1st quarter 2007 Fast track: ISPO Winter 2007—a platform for innovation Product developments and innovations Moisture management fabrics Profile of Ronhill Sports: a leading UK supplier of running apparel Business update No 21, 2nd quarter 2007 Fast track: International Active Textiles Symposium 2007—a new event for a competitive market Product developments and innovations Temperature control fabrics Profile of Burton Snowboards: the global market leader in snowboarding equipment Business update No 22, 3rd quarter 2007 Fast track: Avantex—an international forum for innovative textiles for apparel Product developments and innovations Fibres and fabrics for performance footwear Profile of Asics Corporation: a leading producer of high performance footwear Business update No 23, 4th quarter 2007 Fast track: sports wear or fashion wear? A blurring of the boundaries Product developments and innovations Compression garments for enhanced performance Profile of Under Armour: a leader in compression performance apparel Business update
108
Index to Performance Apparel Markets No 24, 1st quarter 2008 Fast track: the Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show 2008 Product developments and innovations Waterproof breathable fabrics: new technologies for greater comfort Profile of Berghaus: a performance apparel producer expanding into fashionable conventional clothing Business update No 25, 2nd quarter 2008 Fast track: new uses for wearable health monitoring technology Product developments and innovations Fleece fabrics and garments: lightweight warmth for better performance Profile of Lowe Alpine: a pioneer in the outdoor leisure market Business update No 26, 3rd quarter 2008 Fast track: OutDoor 2008 Product developments and innovations Developments in military clothing Profile of TenCate: a supplier of high-tech fabrics for military wear Business update No 27, 4th quarter 2008 Fast track: gas plasma treatments for water repellent technology Product developments and innovations Anti-odour clothing: bringing fresh appeal to the performance apparel market Profile of Delta Galil: a global innovator in underwear, socks and seamless apparel Business update No 28, 1st quarter 2009 Fast track: sports brands strive for “greener” supply chains Product developments and innovations Medical clothing: safeguarding health and well-being Profile of Medelita: an innovator in medical uniforms Business update No 29, 2nd quarter 2009 Fast track: innovations at Techtextil 2009 Product developments and innovations UV protective clothing: key to reducing skin damage Profile of Coolibar: a leader in UV protective clothing Business update No 30, 3rd quarter 2009 Fast track: what China can learn from the Lycra story Product developments and innovations New developments in performance swimwear Profile of Carvico: a global leader in warp knitted stretch fabrics Business update No 31, 4th quarter 2009 Fast track: message from ISPO 2010—sports brands should pursue the older generation Product developments and innovations Sustainability in performance apparel: meeting the demands of an eco-conscious marketplace Profile of Anvil Knitwear: an environmentally responsible supplier Business update © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013 No 32, 1st quarter 2010 Fast track: muscle power—the benefits of compression apparel Product developments and innovations Personal protective clothing: ensuring worker safety Profile of Cosalt: a European provider of protective apparel with global ambitions Business update No 33, 2nd quarter 2010 Fast track: US retail sales in six performance apparel sectors Product developments and innovations Snow sports apparel: reaching new heights of comfort and protection Profile of Helly Hansen: a pioneer in performance outerwear Business update No 34, 3rd quarter 2010 Fast track: Taiwan leads Asia in sustainable high performance fibres and fabrics for performance apparel Product developments and innovations Stain protection in performance apparel: providing clean solutions Profile of Eddie Bauer: a long-established outdoor outfitter Business update No 35, 4th quarter 2010 Fast track: should questions about the safety of PTFE worry the performance apparel industry? Product developments and innovations Nanotechnology in performance apparel: using small-scale materials to create big opportunities Profile of Schoeller Group: a creative producer of smart and sustainable functional fabrics Business update No 36, 1st quarter 2011 Fast track: how apparel is recording track times, distances, calories, location and pictures Product developments and innovations Flame resistant fibres and fabrics Profile of Globe Manufacturing Company: inventor of the firefighter suit Business update No 37, 2nd quarter 2011 Fast track: should apparel brands be held responsible for pollution caused by their suppliers? Product developments and innovations Cosmetotextiles: wearable body care Profile of Laboratoire Skin’Up: a pioneer in cosmetotextiles Business update No 38, 3rd quarter 2011 Fast track: innovations at ITMA Product developments and innovations Stretch fibres and fabrics: reaching new levels of comfort Profile of Jersey Lomellina: a global leader in circular knitted stretch fabrics Business update
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Index to Performance Apparel Markets No 39, 4th quarter 2011 Fast track: performance apparel for the active older generation Product developments and innovations Smart textiles and wearable technology: opportunities for life enhancement and health management Profile of WarmX: an innovative supplier of wearable technology Business update No 40, 1st quarter 2012 Fast track: advances in insulation materials for performance apparel Product developments and innovations High visibility apparel: providing protection, comfort and style Profile of UniFirst: a leader in the uniform and textile services industry Business update No 41, 2nd quarter 2012 Fast track: Adidas and Nike battle for supremacy in football and the Olympic Games Product developments and innovations Summer sportswear: providing cool comfort Profile of Mizuno: a world-renowned sports brand Business update No 42, 3rd quarter 2012 Fast track: focus on insect repellent and heated garments at OutDoor 2012 Product developments and innovations Chemical protective clothing: providing a life-critical barrier Profile of Lakeland Industries: an innovator in chemical protective clothing Business update No 43, 4th quarter 2012 Fast track: how environmentally sustainable is the outdoor apparel industry? Product developments and innovations Water sports apparel: innovation keeps brands afloat Profile of Musto: a premium nautical apparel brand Business update No 44, 1st quarter 2013 Fast track: is there a future for smart fabrics in sports monitoring? Product developments and innovations Temperature control fabrics: optimising wearer comfort Profile of Patagonia: a pioneer in corporate social responsibility (CSR) Business update No 45, 2nd quarter 2013 Fast track: China’s leading sportswear companies face challenges after the heady days of the Beijing 2008 Olympic Games Product developments and innovations Indoor sportswear and fitness apparel Profile of Lululemon Athletica: a specialist in stylish fitness apparel Business update
109
Performance Apparel Markets, 3rd quarter 2013
Index to Performance Apparel Markets
No 46, 3rd quarter 2013 Fast track: protecting sports participants from head injuries Product developments and innovations Waterproof breathable fabrics: demand for comfort is driving innovation Profile of Jack Wolfskin: a premium outdoor apparel brand Business update
110
© Textiles Intelligence Limited 2013
Technical Textile Markets Business and market analysis of worldwide trends in fibres, nonwovens, technical textiles and functional apparel High performance fibres and technical textiles represent two of the faster growing sectors of the global textile industry. Attracted by strong growth rates, many producers of apparel textiles are moving over to technical textiles as competition from low cost imports increases. Technical textiles, based on high technology, are more "import-proof" than conventional textiles and apparel. Also, there are great opportunities for producers to gain a competitive edge and to earn higher margins through advanced technology. Traditional applications for high performance fibres and technical textiles include conveyor belts, tarpaulins, tyre cords and ropes. Producers are also manufacturing high-tech products for an increasingly wide range of industrial end uses. However, as the markets for fashion and sports clothing have started to merge, high performance fibres and technical textiles are also meeting the demand for new materials created by changes in consumer "lifestyle". Furthermore, as leisure time increases, so does the demand for specialist sports goods.
A subscription to Technical Textile Markets will provide you with: • Profiles of fibre and technical textile companies around the world – their strengths and weaknesses; how they operate; which markets they are exploring; their future plans for development • Updates on innovations and developments in fibres, technical textiles, apparel and machinery • Regular reports on the world’s leading nonwovens companies • Profiles of the fibre and technical textile industries in different countries • Analyses of developments in the nonwovens industry, in the man-made fibre industry, and in a wide range of new and traditional end use markets • Regular statistical reports, including data not published elsewhere • A quarterly Global News Round-Up, including business news, details of mergers and acquisitions and investments, and financial results • Editorial comment on the key issues facing the industry
Published four times a year, Technical Textile Markets provides easily accessible information, designed to keep you informed about changes and developments in the man-made fibre, technical textile, and performance apparel industries. Much of the information and data published in Technical Textile Markets is difficult or impossible to obtain elsewhere, and much could take your researchers months to gather, collate and analyse.
• Reports on new technological developments – with clear, authoritative comments on their economic and commercial significance • Market information and forecasts - analyses of important commercial enduse markets; and trends from the viewpoint of fibre producers • Clearly presented tables, charts and diagrams
Subscribe without delay! To stay ahead of your competitors you can not afford to be without this unique publication! Please send me:
Payment details:
■ I would like to subscribe to Technical Textile Markets
■
I would like to pay by direct transfer into: Barclays Bank plc, Pall Mall Corporate Group, PO Box 15165, London SW1A 1QF, UK. Account Name: Textiles Intelligence Limited. Account Number: 20887846. Sort Code: 20-67-59
■
I enclose a cheque (UK sterling drawn on a UK Bank, or Euros or US dollars) made payable to Textiles Intelligence Ltd
■ ■
Please send me a proforma invoice (publications sent on receipt of payment)
Price:
UK
Rest of Europe, Middle East & Africa
The Americas & Asia Pacific
■ ■ ■
Printed version only
£965
€1,710
US$2,235
Printed and electronic
£1,448
€2,565
US$3,353
Single copy/ies - printed version only
£362 each
€641 each
US$838 each
£543 each
€962 each
US$1,257 each
(please specify issue/s below)
■
Single copy/ies - printed and electronic (please specify issue/s below)
Specify issue/s here
Please charge to my credit card:
■
American Express
Expires End:
Signature:
Date:
VAT/TVA/IVA Reg No. (Europe only) Address of cardholder if different from delivery address:
Name & address details: Name (Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms) Job title
Please send your order to:
Nature of business
Company name Address Country Tel Email address
Postcode Fax
Mastercard
Card No:
Please write your email address here Please note that sterling prices apply to customers whose delivery addresses are in the UK only. Euro prices apply to customers in the rest of Europe, Middle East and Africa, and US dollar prices apply to customers in the Americas and Asia Pacific.
■
Textiles Intelligence Limited, International Subscriptions 10 Beech Lane, Wilmslow SK9 5ER, UK Tel: +44 (0)1625 536136 Fax: +44 (0)1625 536137 Email: [email protected] Website: www.textilesintelligence.com Textiles Intelligence Limited, Registered in England and Wales No. 03567033. Registered office: Century House, Ashley Rd, Hale, Altrincham, WA15 9TG, UK.
■ /
Visa
Global Apparel Markets Four times a year, Global Apparel Markets provides essential and up-to-date analysis and insight into the global apparel industry. Reports contain updates on retail trends, product developments, trade policy, company and country profiles, and business news – to keep retailers, manufacturers and investors informed of the facts and figures which affect their business. Each issue contains:
The round-up of industry product developments and innovations includes information on: design; fabric treatments and finishes; "green" issues; machinery; new fibres for apparel fabrics; new manufacturing processes; smart fabric applications; and yarns and fabrics for apparel.
• an editorial feature which contains insight and authoritative analysis from our team of experts; • a detailed research-based report or company profile covering information on sourcing, developments in technology, colour and/or fabric trends, market sectors such as discount retailing, or other issues which affect companies in the apparel industry;
The feature on trade and trade policy provides an overview of global trade in the main consumer markets, details of recent trade agreements in selected regions, and insight and statistical data.
• a round-up of industry product developments and innovations; • a feature on trade and trade policy; • advice on strategy; and
The strategy report provides "food for thought". It includes opinions based on first-hand interviews with industry experts and consultants who specialise in strategies employed in the global apparel industry.
• business news. Research-based reports planned for the first year include the following: • Developments in apparel technology;
The round-up of business news includes industry specific news about: acquisitions, divestments and mergers; conferences and exhibitions; financial results of leading companies; corporate social responsibility; investments; joint ventures, cooperation, licensing and distribution agreements; markets; patents and trademark disputes; and celebrity promotions.
• Discount clothing retailing; • Corporate social responsibility; • Mass customisation and fit; • Radio frequency identification; • Sourcing apparel from South and South-East Asia; • Strategies of clothing manufacturers in the post-quota era;
Each issue also contains an extensive glossary of terms and a list of useful contact details.
• The effect of online shopping and the Internet on the apparel industry; and • Trends in apparel fabrics: a review of key fabric fairs in Europe and Asia.
Subscribe without delay! To stay ahead of your competitors you can not afford to be without this unique publication! Please send me:
Payment details:
■ I would like to subscribe to Global Apparel Markets
■
I would like to pay by direct transfer into: Barclays Bank plc, Pall Mall Corporate Group, PO Box 15165, London SW1A 1QF, UK. Account Name: Textiles Intelligence Limited. Account Number: 20887846. Sort Code: 20-67-59
■
I enclose a cheque (UK sterling drawn on a UK Bank, or Euros or US dollars) made payable to Textiles Intelligence Ltd
■ ■
Please send me a proforma invoice (publications sent on receipt of payment)
Price:
UK
Rest of Europe, Middle East & Africa
The Americas & Asia Pacific
■ ■ ■
£650 £975 £244 each
€1,130 €1,695 €424 each
US$1,455 US$2,183 US$546 each
£366 each
€636 each
US$818 each
Printed version only Printed and electronic Single copy/ies - printed version only (please specify issue/s below)
■
Single copy/ies - printed and electronic (please specify issue/s below)
Please charge to my credit card:
■
American Express
■
Mastercard
Card No:
Expires End:
Signature:
Date:
■ /
Specify issue/s here Please write your email address here Please note that sterling prices apply to customers whose delivery addresses are in the UK only. Euro prices apply to customers in the rest of Europe, Middle East and Africa, and US dollar prices apply to customers in the Americas and Asia Pacific.
VAT/TVA/IVA Reg No. (Europe only) Address of cardholder if different from delivery address:
Name & address details: Name (Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms) Job title
Nature of business
Please send your order to:
Fax
Textiles Intelligence Limited, Alderley House, Alderley Road, Wilmslow SK9 1AT, UK Tel: +44 (0)1625 536136 Fax: +44 (0)1625 536137 Email: [email protected] Website: www.textilesintelligence.com
Company name Address Country Tel Email address
Postcode
Textiles Intelligence Limited. Registered in England and Wales No. 03567033. Registered Office: MBL House, 16 Edward Court, Altrincham Business Park, George Richards Way, Altrincham WA14 5GL, UK.
Visa
Textile Outlook International a business intelligence service for the world’s senior textile and apparel executives Six times a year, Textile Outlook International provides up to 200 pages of expert comment and analysis, including: regular updates on world textile and apparel trade and production trends; profiles of textile and apparel companies and countries around the world; business opportunities in the global market place; political implications and information on trade blocs, tariffs and quotas; and innovations and technological developments in the industry.
A subscription to Textile Outlook International offers you: • Profiles of textile and apparel companies around the world - their strengths and weaknesses; how they operate; which markets they are exploring; their future plans for development; and which opportunities they could be exploiting • Analysis of rapidly growing developments in the worlds major producing and consuming regions; production and offshore sourcing opportunities in countries where production costs remain low; and country comparisons and reviews
• Twice yearly updates of world trade and production trends - who the major producers and consumers are, who they are likely to be in five years time, their competitive strategies and international cost comparisons • Reports and comments on trade regulation - tariffs, quotas, government controls and the impact of world politics on the industry
What makes Textile Outlook International indispensable? Executives in the worldwide textile and apparel industries know that it is simply not possible to view developments in one region in isolation from those in another. Textile Outlook International provides a truly independent and worldwide perspective. Drawing on its worldwide network of expert contributors, Textile Outlook International supports your decision making with effective research, analysis and forecasts.
Where will the major markets be in the future? What products will they be demanding?
• Reports on new technological developments - with clear, authoritative comments on their economic and commercial significance
Who will be your future competitors? Which key developments will affect your business?
• Market information and forecasts - analysis of consumer markets, textile developments, and apparel trends from the viewpoint of merchants and retailers
Subscribe without delay! To stay ahead of your competitors you can not afford to be without this unique publication! Please send me:
Payment details:
■ I would like to subscribe to Textile Outlook International
■
I would like to pay by direct transfer into: Barclays Bank plc, Pall Mall Corporate Group, PO Box 15165, London SW1A 1QF, UK. Account Name: Textiles Intelligence Limited. Account Number: 20887846. Sort Code: 20-67-59
■
I enclose a cheque (UK sterling drawn on a UK Bank, or Euros or US dollars) made payable to Textiles Intelligence Ltd Please send me a proforma invoice (publications sent on receipt of payment)
Price:
UK
Rest of Europe, Middle East & Africa
The Americas & Asia Pacific
■ ■ ■
Printed version only
£900
€1,670
US$2,165
Printed and electronic
£1,350
€2,505
US$3,248
Single copy/ies - printed version only
£225 each
€418 each
US$541 each
■ ■
£338 each
€626 each
US$812 each
Card No:
Expires End:
Signature:
Date:
(please specify issue/s below)
■
Single copy/ies - printed and electronic (please specify issue/s below)
Specify issue/s here
Please charge to my credit card:
■
American Express
Please write your email address here Please note that sterling prices apply to customers whose delivery addresses are in the UK only. Euro prices apply to customers in the rest of Europe, Middle East and Africa, and US dollar prices apply to customers in the Americas and Asia Pacific.
VAT/TVA/IVA Reg No. (Europe only) Address of cardholder if different from delivery address:
Name & address details: Name (Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms) Job title
Please send your order to:
Nature of business
Company name Address Country Tel Email address
Postcode Fax
Textiles Intelligence Limited, International Subscriptions 10 Beech Lane, Wilmslow SK9 5ER, UK Tel: +44 (0)1625 536136 Fax: +44 (0)1625 536137 Email: [email protected] Website: www.textilesintelligence.com Textiles Intelligence Limited, Registered in England and Wales No. 03567033. Registered office: Century House, Ashley Rd, Hale, Altrincham, WA15 9TG, UK.
■
Mastercard
■ /
Visa
Textiles Intelligence Limited International Subscriptions Alderley House Wilmslow Cheshire SK9 1AT United Kingdom Telephone: +44 (0)1625 536136 Facsimile: +44 (0)1625 536137 Email: [email protected] Website: www.textilesintelligence.com