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Tomoko Nakamichi Having served many years as a professor at Bunka Fashion College, Tomoko Nakamichi currently delivers lectures and holds courses on paffern making in her native Japan and internationally. This book brings together the results of the research on garment patterns she has carried out to help instruct her students. She also enjoys creating the ball-jointed fashion dolls that appear iñ the pages of this book.

PA TTER N M AC I C Tomoko Nakamichi

KingPublishing Laurence

Pattern Making Cut andioin flat piecesof fabric to assemble into a three-dimensional garment.

Take the pieces of a three-dimensional garment apart and flatten them, to get individual pattern pieces.

The relationship between the flat pattern pieces and the three-dimensional structure of the garment never changes.

You can create a garment by cutting, moving and reassemblingthe piecesof a pattern, just like the pieces of. a pazzle.

Use your original designs to make new patterns.

Conte n ts Usingthis book

Fundamentals

PIateS

Pa r t 1 Creatingform throughinspiration

Accents

13

Instructions 27

(deppari)

Gathered hole

14'15 '1.7

Crater

L6.1.7

The drop hole

1,8. 1.9

(otoshiana)

Lumps and bumps

20

(dekoboko)

female sloper(block)for an adultJapanese Thedressform usedin this bookis basedon the standardBunka-style Seepages98-'102for moredetails All patternsarefor a size9 lapaneseadult female(bust 83cm,waist 64cm, centrebacklength38cm) to garmentsize Theposiüonof the cuttingandopeningout lines,andthe amountto be openedout, mayvaryaccording and developthe frtern measurements bodyform, reduceto halfallfull-sized When usinga half-scale

Plates

P ar t 2 MakingPatterns for hautecouture garments

Instructtons /1

Draped design

53

The twist

54

68

55

74

Interwoven design

56

80

Bamboo shoot

57

84

58.59

86

(nejiri)

Hide and seek (kalO ""¿ (9) d callthe resultingPattern

)wn in asshown from patternpieces@' @' and@ Thiscollaris constructed

95 PATTERN

MACIC

l: f llñ

dmple design fabric. No l$. Stretchthe lldoes not. make

@ To createa soft effectfrom the shoulderto the sleevecap,alignthe left and right sleevecapsas shownin the drawing The designlinesinsertedinto the bodicebackserveas a stylishaccent

@ n stytistrdesignhas beencreatedby manipulatingthe pattern.

73 PATTERN

MAGIC

Flide and seek (kakurenbo)

-i¡ ml E

Not a flare that expands uniformly

4'

5ú

by cutting and opening out the pattern, but a flare that is subtly concealed on the underside of the fabric. Making a pattern Íor the kakurenbo design with a drawing is easier than you think.

A basicjabot-style frill A gorgeousdecorativeeffectfor the front of a blouse. The connectionbetweenthe sectionthat is visiblefrom the front and the sectionconcealedunderneathis important.

o'

(O Rttachparts@, @ and@. Reverse or thebacksideof the @ beforeattaching garment willbeontop. l[) rtnakea drawing of the frill you want to make

@ Separateout the variousparts

/ @

@ Smoothlyadjustthe line that will becomethe edgeof the frill

74 PATTERN

MAC¡C

Ffareconceafed in a curve Thisdesignmakesyou wonderhow the flarehas beenconcealed. The foldedand layeredlook that hasso much depth is structurallybeautifuland exciting.With that ideain mind, I beganby drawing somecomplexcuryes.

f i\ _ _ @

Q Draw designlineson the base.

o

@

@ Insertlinesin the way the frill would fall

si