metal steel bending press plans

Metal Bending Press Here are the plans for you to build your own metal bending press. I have always worked in my garage

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Metal Bending Press Here are the plans for you to build your own metal bending press. I have always worked in my garage and have needed metal bent on different projects and always had to find a way to get it done. Well final I decided to build my own and since then I have found several thing I would like to have and decided that I could build it myself and save some money in the process. I have even built my own motorcycle wheel chalk which saved me over $100.00. This is a handy item to have around. I have bent flat plate cold roll steel 5/16” thick up to 2” wide and ¼” thick up to 3” wide. Below is a picture of the wheel chalk I built.

MATERIAL LIST Square Tubing (2) - 2” X 2” X 3/16” X 18” Long Mark “A” (1) - 1” X 1” X 1/8” X 9-3/4” Long Mark “D”

(2) (1) (3) (1)

-

2” 2” 2” 2”

X X X X

¼” ¼” ¼” ¼”

Flat Bar X 10” Long X 10” Long X 14” Long X 8” Long

Mark “B” Mark “B-1 Mark “C” Mark “H”

Angle (1) - 1-1/4” X 1-1/4” X 3/16” X 9-3/4” Long Mark “E” (2) - 2” X 2” X ¼” X 10” Long Mark “F” (2) - 1-1/4” X 1-1/4” X 1/8” X 16” Long Mark “G” Round (1) - 5/8” X 5” Long Mark “I” ( The diameter and length of this piece will depend on what radius you are wanting to bend.)

PARTS LIST (1) - 12 Ton Hydraulic Bottle Jack (2) - Heavy Duty Springs 1” Diameter X 5” Long (2) - 5/16” X 4” Long Eye Bolts w/flat washers and nuts (2) - 5/16” X 1-1/2” Long Eye Bolts w/flat washers and nuts (2)- 5/16” X 1” Bolts w/Lock washers and nuts (1) - V - Block

First we are going to cut all the material needed and then we need to clean all the edges for safety purposes. Once we have them cut and cleaned we need to be sure we mark them as per the material list. This will make it easier to work with. Next we will start by preparing the materials, trimming, measuring and drilling the holes.

First take the two pieces marked “B”. We are going to trim off the top corners Measure over and down ½” and mark Now connect these two marks and this is the area you trim off.

Now we need to get the piece marked “B-1” - 2” X ¼” X 10” Long. Lay it as shown her in the photo and measure up from the bottom 1” and mark at each end. Now measure in 2” from both ends and mark. You now have your two center marks for your holes.

Drill the two 5/16” holes through. You may need to clean around the holes you drill. Lay this piece aside.

Now we need the pieces marked “D” & “E” Lay them out as shown. “D” will lay cradled inside the angle as shown and you will weld at the top on each end and also along the bottom seam.

Now we need to measure and mark the piece to get the centers for drilling the holes. Lay the piece like it is here in the photo. Measure over 7/8” on each end and mark. Now measure up 19/32” from the bottom and mark on each end. This gives you your center marks. Drill two 5/16” holes through the tubing and angle.

Now you will need to grind the top edge of “E” flush with the top of “D”. You only need to grin in between the two 5/16” holes. This is so your V-Block will set level when you use the press.

Take the piece marked “H”, we need to measure and mark it for drilling also. Lay it flat and measure over 1” on each end and mark. Now measure up 1”from the bottom and mark. Now you have your centers for your holes.

Drill two 5/16” holes through as shown here.

Now take the pieces marked “H” & “I” You need to place “I” in the center of “H” in both directions. Yours may vary depending on the size die you want. On this one you would set it 1” up from the bottom and 1-1/2” in on each end.

Now that “I” is in place you need to weld it to “H”. Weld it on both sides as shown in the photo below.

Take the two pieces mark “F” and lay them out as shown, facing each other. Slide the top one (as shown in the photo) up onto the bottom one. Slide them together until they stop.

Place C-clamps on them to secure them in place.

This photo shows what the end view would look like.

Leave the clamps on and turn the piece so you can weld the outside seam. Once you have welded the outside seam turn it over and weld the inside seam.

When you have completed the welding you can remove the clamps.

Now we need to Measure for the two 5/16” holes. You measure from outside edge to outside edge as shown in the photo below. Measure up from the bottom 1-1/8” on each end and mark. Next measure over 1” from each end and mark. This give you the center marks for drilling your holes

Drill the two 5/16” holes through. Set this piece aside.

Now that we have all the part prepped and ready we are going to start putting the base together.

Take the two pieces marked “A” you will need to measure and mark over 2” on both the “A” pieces. Now take the piece marked “B-1” and place it as it shows in this photo. (We used welding magnets to hold in place). Spot weld “B-1” to “A” and check to be sure it is square. When it is weld it in place on the top and bottom.

Now insert the two 5/16” X 1” Bolts through the holes as shown. Place the nuts and lock washers on the secure them in place.

Once they are secured spot-weld around the top of the bolts.

Take the “A”, “B-1” piece and stand it up with the “B-1” towards the top. Get the two pieces marked “B”. You will place the first one with the notches down toward “B-1” and set it in 3/8” from the back. Make sure it is square and weld it in place.

Weld the front and back of “B” onto “B-1” and “A”. This photo shows the back view where the notches are placed and the welds.

Take the remaining piece “B” and place it just as you did the first one. The notches down and 3/8” in and weld in place.

Get two of the pieces marked “C” you are going to need two C-clamps to hold them in place. Place them on the outside at the top. One in the back and one in the front, of “A” as shown. (like a sandwich) They should be flush with the tops of “A” and “B” and also flush with the sides of “A”.

Weld around as shown here. On the front and on the back.

You will need to grind the top welds flush. There is another plate that will be placed on the top.

Take the last piece marked ”C” and place it on the top as shown in this photo. It should be flush on the ends and there will be a ¼” in both the front and back Shown in the photo below.

Put your clamps on to secure it in place and weld around the edges.

Now you will need the base and the piece “F”. This piece goes at the bottom in between the “A” columns. There is one side of “F” that is ¼” longer than the other it makes no difference if it is in the back or front. We have it shown here in the front. You need to be sure the “F” piece is level and square. To help with this we made it flush in the front with “A”.

Making it flush in the front will mean it is not flush in the back there is about ¼” overhang shown here in this photo. Now that it is squared and level weld it in place.

Now take the two pieces marked “G” these are the feet. You will place them on the outsides of “A” with 7” on either side (as shown here in the photo). You can spot-weld them in place then square them up and weld in them place.

Weld inside where the feet meet “A” in the front and back.

Now we have the body assembled we are almost done. There are just a few more steps and you will be ready to use your new press.

Get the two 5/16” X 1-1/2” Eye bolts with nuts and washers. insert them down through the 5/16” holes on top of the piece “F”. Make sure the eye of the bolt is turned to be parallel with “A” then place the flat washer on the bolt and secure the bolt in place with the nut.

Take the piece “H” & “I” and place It on the 5/16” bolt on “B-1”, once on secure it with the lock washers and nuts.

Take “D” and the 5/16” X 4” Eye bolts with the flat washers and nuts. Turn the “D” piece over with the ground edge towards the bottom. Insert the eye bolts up through as shown here in this photo and secure them in place with the flat washers and the nuts.

Place the springs onto the eye bolts as shown here.

Now attach the springs to the eye bolts on “F”

Now put your 12 Ton Hydraulic Bottle Jack in place and you are finished. You can take the remove the bottle jack and the springs and bolts or tape them off and paint your New Press.

This is just to show you how it bends this ¼” flat stock. I hope you have enjoyed making yours as I did. I have made several different items with mine. A few things I have saved a great deal of money on by making my own instead of paying retail prices. Thank you for purchasing these plans I hope you have great success with them.