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pilaeus

υGΕΝΙΑ

SALZA

PRΙNA

RιCοΤΤι

Translated by Ruth Anne Lotero

VIEALS AI{D RECIPES FROM ANCIENT GREECE

J, PAUL GΕττΥ

Ν,ι

USEUM, LoS ANGELES

]

C

oNTENTS

PART Ι: INTRODUCTION Ι

Homer: The First Allusions to Food and lts Preparation The Golden Age Banquet

2 6

Domesdc Dining from the Fifth Century Onl,ηrard Wedding Banquets

8

Ι4

Greek Menus

Regional Gastronomy and Customs Hellenism and Alexandel the Great Expenses

Wine and the Symposium Bibliography

Ι7

2ο 25 Ζ,6

Ζ8 33

Ρ-ξ,RΤ ΙΙ: RECIPES Breads and Flour-Based Foods Sauces and Condiments for Bread

,

Appetizers Soups andYegetables Meat Seafood Desserts

Condiments, Flavorings, and Seasonings Index

35 36

42

44 53

6ο 7τ

Ιο2

ιι8 Ι2τ

INTTRODUCTIONT

rom τhe age of Achilles to Alexander the Greaτ: over

α τhousand years, and such

α great span of history. And not just the courtly history of battles, plagues, kings, :},Iants, and great oratols, but also the plodding, daily history of common people

:r),ing το make τhε most out of life. i\-e can 1οοΚ back οη ancient Greek life through ßτs epic and rηride-ranging Ιßτeτα.ure, ßη

:rιd

which

α r,ηrealth

αΙ1

subjects, including daily life, are explored. Iη τhßò liτeraτure

rηre

of information about ancient Greek meals, Ιτοm τhose hosτed by

τhe

\I1,cenaean kings to the fantastic banquets of the lαsτ sovereigns of τhε Hellenisτic

with food and dining, eyerything fτom :ιiquette to menu planning. We are fortunate indeed τhατ αlmοsτ αΙ1 τhε auτhors of :τα. There are thousands of passages dealing

age-geographers, storytellers, chroniclers of history poets, or, comic r.ηzriters-rηrroie about food, banquets, and r,vine. (Inτriguingly,

::re Hellenisτic

:εsτ of αΙ],

Jmost

of τhese rnrriters included voluntary purging as α topic.) Other scholars :ompiled books whose sole theme \Λ/αs τhe kitchen and ßτs ingredienτs. We have evi_ αΙΙ

:ence of -,ηΙγ α

,

τητεlΙ

over t\η/enty ryorks specializing ßη cuisine of rηrhich, υηfοττυηατεΙγ,

handful have suryived.

he most important and complete of the surviving texts is the rηrork of α Greek

.:holar, Aτhenaeus. Leaving behind his native Naucraτis ßη Εgγρτ, Aτhenaeus moved

ι

Rome ßη the second century B.c. to become the librarian of Ρ Livy Larensis, α rich :,ιrzen, α descendent ofVarro, and the ο\Λ/ηετ of αη immense library. This job furτ

lshed

the scholar urith α maτvelous opportunity to compile, r,ιriτh loving care, his

ºlmense rηrork entitled

The Deipnosophists (Deipnosophisτae

means "]earned banqueτ"),

α

::eaiise dlvided into fifτeen books and dedicaτed το his benefacτor. Wßτhßη τhe pages

lle

Deipnosophists, rηre

not οηΙγ find the most deτailed noτes αbουτ αηòßεητ Greek food

of

and cookery fτοm τhe τimes of Homer forrnrard, but rηre are also informed about horηr much and τητhατ rηras served ατ banquets elserηrhere along the Mediterranean coast. Indeed, τlre curiosiτy of Greek auτhors did not end αt the shores of their sea, but exτended ßητο τhe far reaches οf τhε Κηοlητη world. Megasthenes, α Greek author of the Hellenisτic era lvho arτived ßη India folloιving Alexander the Great, described rηrhat τhe Indians ατe and hοτητ τhe food rηras served. Iη his second book, Indika ("History of

india"), he recounτs

τhατ

ßη

τhατ far-off

land

α lor,ηr table was set nexΙ to each guest,

and οη ßτ rvas placed α golden bourl filled to the brim rηrith boiled rice and α number of sτrongly spiced meατ sauces.This shor.ηrs that even ßη the fourth century B.C.,Indian food

rηras

based οη curry sauces.

Megasτhenes

\Λ/αò

ηοτ τhe οηΙγ αυτhοι το \η/ιßtε of distant peoples and their eating

habiτs. Iη τhe many diverse τεχτò examined by Athenaeus, authors discussed the foods

and banqueτs of peoples from India to Spain: Celts, Germans, Thracians, Persians, ancienτ Syrians, Egypτians, and Parτhians.They even cite the mysterious and (as far as τhe Greeks \Λ/eτε concerned) υττετΙγ uncivilized Etruscans, Ιη ιheir rvritings, the

Alexandrian rheτoricians and grammarians ridiculed the Phoenician habit of eating smoked fish, criτiqued Ετhßορßαη cumin, and disdained Babylonian apples; and rnrhile τhey commenτed unfavorabiy οη τhe immorality of ιhe effeminaie men of Babylonia, they effused over τhe luxury οf τheir dining habits. Iη sum, Greek r,ηrriτers had

explored and commenτed οη τhε food, cookerμ gardens, farms, fisheries, leavenings, and condimenτs of τhε Κηοτητη τητοτld, and Athenaeus, τereading and synιhesizing the τeχτò of τhese r.ηrriτers, broughτ αΙΙ τhε gastronomical facts and stories together ßη his anthology, α ma]or

r.ηrork thατ

is sτßßΙ interesting, fluid, and easy to read today.

HOMER: ΤΗΕ FlRST ALLUSIONS ΤΟ FOOD AND ΙΤS PREPARAΤΙON Our knoιnrledge of Greek food and εατßηg habits begins rπrith the Homeric poetic cycle: The lliad and The Odyssey. Βοιh r.ηrorks ατε of course attributed to the blind οταtοτ, Homer, bυτ ßη fαòτ τhεγ ττεατ

τ\Λ/ο

distinct time periods, something that becomes abun-

dantly clear rηrhen one examines the differences ßη τhε habiτs of hearτh and home betrηreen the tτητο poems.

Το begin r,vith, ßη The lllad, men sat dοιητη ßο eaτ (Aιhenaeus

reclining couch of

The

used ßη

ι.ιιff

,),lηrhereas τhe

such couches were ηοτ γeτ Κηοινη ßη τhe era lliad. Iη the firsτ poem, daily life r,ηras conducτed r,viτh greaι simpliciτy. Ατ dinner r,ηras

The Odyssey;

beneath theTrojan rηralls, the men ate chunks of beef roasτed over αη open fire. Ατ τhis

point ßη history meat ιητeτe knolηrn.

α bßτ

\Λ/αs ali,ιrays

roasted; it seems that ηο other cooking meτhods

Antiphanes, α Middle Comedy poet, joked τhατ Homer never had soup οτ

of boiled meat plepared for his heroes. "He ryas so primitive," added the comic,

"τhατ he even had tripe roasted!" Goat and lamb rηrere also eaten, but Priam, after his

more heroic sons lrave died, bemoans the fact that αΙΙ the offspring he has left are "the disgraces, τhe liars and the dancers,

..

,

the plunderers of their orπn people ßη their

land of lambs and kids" (Jliad Ζ4,Ζ6ι-6Ζ), Ιη all probability he

rnras

less indignant at

τheir plundering τhαη ατ τhε idea τhαι his sons \Λ/ere εατßηg food fit οηlγ for r,ιreak females: τhε heroes and defendeτs of the country should be eating οηlγ bloody steak and undiluιed ιητßηe, comestibles that

r,ηrere

thought to keep soldiers strong and render

τhem fiτ and keen for bατιΙe.

The heroes of the Trojan War also consumed great loayes of bread served ßη huge baskeτs. But, according to Athenaeus, bread \η/as never served at dinner, α meal that

consisτed οηΙγ of beef, As α beveτage, red and even black rnrine rnras offered ßη expansive

cups-a

fact that, given the enyironment, could be said to be heroic indeed.

Cheese is menτioned, though rarely, but ßη α predominantly pastoral civilization it

is οηΙγ natural that cheese rπas made and eaten. Grated goat cheese mixed

r,ηrith

Pramnian rηrine-red, full-bodied, and heavy-rηras offered to the healeτ Machaon by Nesτor, after the former was urounded ßη the shoulder. This mixture

\Λ/αs

apparently

ιhουghτ το give the body special sustenance: α forerunner, perhaps, of our modern

blood τransfusions. Το render it more palatable and τempt the rηrounded hero tο sιηταΙΙοτητ ττ

it, Machaon rvas given αη οηßοη ιο munch betrηreen gulps of τrine (Iliad

,6Ζ9* 35).

Olive οß1

rηras

also most important. It

\Δ/αs

then the basic seasoning for food and

remained so υητß1 τhε end of αηιßqυßτγ, Ιη ruined palaces of this

period-for

example,

τhose alleged το be from τhε reign of Nestor at Pylos, going back thirty-three hundred

years-\Λ/e find τraces of large doloi (vats) used to hold οßΙ,

as τητεΙ1 as clay tablets

ßη the

ancienτ urriτing sysτem of Linear Β τhαt served for bookkeeping ßη that remote era,

Alτhough flsh filled τhε Mediτerranean Sea, then as

nornr,

and the people of the coast

harvesτed ßτ ßη greaτ qυαητßτßεò, fish dlshes are completely absent from the tables of the

Trojan\Λhr heroes.

Iτ

is ηοτ τhατ Homer ignored iis existence: ßη \ηιαs

lliad, he describes

ßη fish. This fact ßη itself preciudes the notion that

τhe Hellesponτ as α sea abounding

not so much as α sardine

The

to be found οη α Greek hero's table. But Homer's

descripτions lack ηοτ οηΙγ fish, but

αΙΙ

fish products, as vrell as fruits and vegetables,

alτhough among the common people such lood uras surely abundantly represented at mealtimeS.

Ιτ

could be conjecτured

god-heroes,

τητhο r,ηrere

τhατ such foods \η/ετε

ηοt considered

\Δτοτthγ

of the mythicai

the sτuff of legend. It is rηrell to remember that the gods,

according to mythologμ dined exclusively οη nectar and ambrosia; this may have led το τhe pIesumpτion ιhατ τhe heroes rηrere nourished οηΙγ by elevated foodstuffs such as

beeζ bread, and sτrong wine. There is archaeological evidence that this god-king diet

ßη fαòτ, also τhε choice oΓreal kings and their courts during this historical period. Ιη the remains of the vast Mycenaean throne rooms, οτ megalons-for example, those of "Agamemnon" ατ Mycenae and of "Nestor" at Pylos-there are signs τhατ mεατ

rnras,

r,ιras α

principal food of the

τογα1 rnrarriors

of the Bronze Age. Large, squat benches are

arrayed around immense hearths, capacious enough for αη entire οχ; there, elborηr-toεlbοτητ,

τhε king and his courτ mighτ personally prepare their suppers rηrhile discussing

governmenτ affairs. Such grand hearιhs r.ιrere hardly the place to poach α filet of sole.

When

\η/ε

τßmε of

come to

The lliad.

centuIy "chanson

The Odysseμ r.ιre

find that life had changed considerably since the

According το τhε latest ideas, de geste

The Odyssey

is α retelling of αη eighth-

" into rvhich α number of later elements rvere incorporated,

Certain habits persist: ηο one lητουßd have cooked and served mullet to Odysseus, for

-,sιance. Οηlγ rvhen the beleaguered heroes face starvation, as τητhεη they are stranded

-

Slcily, forbidden το eat the cattle that ΑροΙlο grazed there, are they foτced tο eat f,sh

ιΖ.3òα-58).Iη fact, this Sicilian episode and the deer hunt ßη the Circe ::isode (ΒοοΚ ιο) are the οηΙγ times Odysseus and his cre\ηr Tesorted to fishing and _lnting: ηο mention of fish appeaIs elserηrhere. )Jl-ssey

Ξ:ι ßη

oτher respecτs, the world that The Odyssey descτibes ηο longer resembles that

of

.:eTroianWar. For one thing, the characters ηο]π consume their meals sprarvled οη .'le famed τriclinium couches, which came ßητο use ßη τhε Ιατε seventh to eighth cenFurτhermore, τhe Odyssean heroes

,-*r1,

=d ,

\Λ/ere

rηrashed τhεßτ hands before eating; neither

surrounded by beautiful handmaidens

of these things occurred ßη

The Ιliad.

_orτiculτure had come into use, at least at the basic level of cultivating barley and

,,,,,heaι.

Orchards appeared, such as those found οη Scheria, the land of the Phaeaclans.

:_r example is τhe splendid and culτivated garden of Alcinous, ßη rηrhich both fruit and

''orι-ers greτr. Ιη lthaca, Odysseus's aged father, Laertes, grerv his orvn vegetables and .alad makings, The diet

\η/αs

more varied and although roasted meat continued to be

ηο longer the οηΙγ protagonist at the banquet οf this period:

,::e

principal food, ßt

,_:e

monoτonous and primitive carnivorous diet of earlier times had been supplanted.

:_

rηras

greaτer varieτy of foods began το sholηr υρ even ατ royal τables. Ατ τhe same τßmε,

:ooking became more refined: after centuries of tossing eyerything οη the fire, ,,,,,ai,s

ηειητ

of cooking the main dish appeared. One reads, for example, "Delicacies such

:lose offered το τhε beloved princes of Zeus," αηd "dαßητγ dishes of

αΙΙ

as

τypes"; iτems

::raι could ηοτ possibly be referring to the simpie, primitive pieces of bloody beef :oasτed οη the great fireplaces of the megaron. Therefore, feasting must have become

:icher and more interesting, ηοt iust aimed at nourishing and strengthening the body, ιυτ also at giving pleasure to the palate and the stomach.

ßι is likely that many of the basic Γoodstuffs preseni ßη the Golden Age of Greece rηrere aiready found ßη the homes of the Odyssean protagonists. Yet it rηras οηΙγ ßη the period lmmediately folloiving the sixth century thaτ α veτitable reyoluτion ßη dining led το

\Λ/hατ \Λ/e

τhßηκ of as τhe τιαdßτßοηαΙ classical meal. This dining style rvas to last, vrith

slighι variaτions, for many cenτuries and inrould constitute the most popular mode of social entertaiηment υρ το the end of classical civiiization. During ιhe Homeric epoch, τhere α

long

1ßòτ

rηrere

obviously not the sort of recipes that Tequired

of ingredienτs and insτrucτions: meat

ιηταs

throrvn οη the fire, ßη

αΙ1

likeli-

hood rnrithout much added, ηοτ even α sprig of rosemary. Large baskeτs conιained mammoτh loaves of bread-unleavened, since yeast \Λras not yet ßη use. It was basically α τough life, bυτ τhen heroes rnrere also tough, and doubtless they did not \Λ/οττγ much

about such trifles.

ΤΗΕ GOLDEN AGE BANQUET The classic Goiden Age banqueτ found its beginnings ßη the fifτh cenτury B.c. Νο longer rπas fire-roasτed mεατ τhε reigning dish. Rather, fish triumphed ßη the kitchen,

becoming τhe main dish: ναòτ array

α procession

οf filet οf bream, bass, tuna, and lobster vrith

of mollusks: oystels, razor clams, sea urchins-as many

as one

α

could offer,

This rπas τhe beginning also of τhε golden age οf the fishmonger, rvho conquered the markets of the great City-States. It is the sea's bounty thaτ preoccupies one of the most expert gastronomes of the

Hellenistic world, τhe Sicilian

r,ηrriτer

Archesτraτus of Gela. The mαjοτßτγ of his

("The Joys of Εατßηg") is devoted to rnrhere to find and hοτητ to cook the besτ fish; α kind of early Michelin guide, giving ουt stars. But this is ηο mere recipe Hedupaτheia

book or gasτronomic guide: ßτ is αη epic verse, stylized ßη heroic hexameter, so beauτßfυΙ and sonorous τhατ Aτhenaeus declared the Hedupatheia vras the οηßγ poem that r,ιrise men should cherish. Whατ is more, it

\Mas

truly useful. Before instructing the reader

οη horηr το cook α slice of tuna or make α pie out of odds and ends, Archestratus gives to organize αη elegant and lively ραττγ: Hellas. . . . Let αΙΙ dine at α single daintily-furnished

precious advice and ouτlines

hο\Λ/

"Of leaτning Ι offer proof το

αΙΙ

ταbΙe.

There should be τhree or four ßη αΙΙ, or at most not more than five. Else

rηre

should presenτly have α τεητfυΙ of freebooters, robbers of victuals" (Athenaeus I.4e). Then he moves οη to discuss urhat should be presented αt α meal, Above αΙΙ, one

should ηοτ forget the rηrreaths for the guests'heads: "Alr.ιrays cτο\Λ/η yourself urith r,ηrreaτh

α

of αßΙ τhε

flornrers that the

α

h"ppy earth produces and perfume γουτ haiτ urith

distilled ointment."

The vrreaths aTe not αη incidental detail, We see these crornrns οη guests' heads, both

ßη ancienτ frescoes and ßη every fllm that attempts to ftanspoτt us back to the ancient world. They urere αη integral part of these gatherings and every guest \Δ/ore one, Obviously, there

r.ηrere

a]so the beautiful coronets of pure gold, novr seen

ßη museums,

ιητhßòh urere buried rnrith their lavishly dressed o\Λ/nels so the latter could paτticipate

ßη τhε afτerlife banqueτs, ßη vrhich they fervently believed. Βυτ τhese lustrous jewels did not have the necessary curative

ρο\Λ/ετs that flol,ηrer and leaf rnrreaths offered; these,

urhen placed οη one's temples, r.ιrere thought to protect the rηrearer from the conse-

quences of excess indulgence, due to their perfumed fragrances. It is true that such rηrreaτhs, parιicularly τhe suave, coquettish ones made of roses and yiolets, looked

ridiculous οη the heads of old ;udges and scor,ηrling generals, and even more so οη obese poliτicians. They certainly iooked most decolative rηrhen placed οη the curls of

α

handsome youth or α beautiful girl. But el/en the old military men and fat politicians used them to caim their headaches and guard against intoxication from too much urine. One famous doctor, Triphonus, explained thατ the flornrer wreaths were ηοτ simρΙγ ornamental, but served to r,ηrard off drunkenness, migraines, and other maladies. The fresh, green ßνγ cro\Λ/n that Dionysus alrnrays \Λrore οη his head gave immediate respiτe fτοm the heat of rπine and even, perhaps by being pressed tightly against τhε

temples, from headache. Roses and violets also appear to have been beneficial: roses urere consideτed α polπerful sedative,

lvhich could instantly cure τhε fiercest migraines.

Other τypes of crorηrns might be prescribed for specific ailmenτs: τhose of henna, sage, and saffron, for example, favored sleep and provided α lovely, restorative repose, αΙßοιητ-

ing the

\Λ/εατει urho had

drunk too much to

arnrake

refreshed and rested, It

rηras

also

important to vratch out for harmful ones, such as carnations, which caused headaches, or for those made fτοm srveet marjoram, rnrhich numbed τhε mind. One had το choose one'S \Λ/Ieath wiseΙy. So much for the ancient "language of florηrers," Appropriate r,ηrreaths urere handed ουτ

to the guests at every banquet; later οη, during dinneτ, perfumes

rnrere

also dispensed,

Betrηreen flornrers and perfumes, the banquet

bυτ even τhis

\Λ/αò

hail must have been extremely fragrant,

ηοτ enough for τhε ancients. The day before α gathering rnras to take

place, τhe dining chamber was suffused rηrith scent. Alchestratus $/rote: "Continue αlΙ day long το τοss myrrh and fτankincense (the fruits of slηreet-smelling Syria) οη the sofτ ashes of τhe fire." One need οηΙγ read this to understand the need for α good tight cτο\η/η

of ßνγ around the temples.

DOMESTΙC DΙNING FROM ΤΗΕ FΙFΤΗ CENTURY ON\VARD \Me have

looked

ατ

τhε dining habiτs of τhε heroic Mycenaean Greeks, and

rηre

have

then heard τhe rnrise counsel that, nine centuτies later, Archestratus gave to those rηrish-

ing το organize τhε ref,ned dinners of τßmε had passed since

τhατ dominated the classical urorld.

Α great deal

τhε Trojan \Mar. Everything r.ιras changed; the customs were

enriched and reflned. There

rηrere,

of course, different types of banquets; ιhey varied

according το τhε social and inτellectual siatus of the participants, the host's

r.ηrealth,

and the customs and laws οΓ the various parts of Gτeece. Μαηγ of these banquets are described ßη τhε pages ofAτhenaeus, from the austere dinners of philosophers to εχτταναgαητ uredding feasτs, from religious festivals to solemn traditions, from sedate

family meals τητßτh

τhατ

were εατεη ßη τhε gynaeceum (wheτe the heads of families dined

moτhers, rηrives, daughιers, and close female relatives) to r.ηrild, libertine, "men-

οηΙγ" repasts. ]η short, there

r,ηrere

meals for

αΙΙ tastes

and incomes.

ΤΗΕ TRANQUIL FAMILY D]NNER ΙΝ ΤΗΕ GYNAECEUM \Me τ.ητßlΙ first examine τhe everyday meal: the regular

family dinner. There are many

examples of these meals porτrayed ßη figurative art: the men are comfortably stretched ουτ οη τheir ττßòΙßηßα, r.ηrhile τhε rηromen are seated ßη chairs at the margins of the scene. Iη the rnrorld οf Asia Μßηοτ as rηrell as Greece, \^/omen never ate

position. For this leason,

rηrives and

girl children are alrvays

shornrn

ßη

α

reclining

upright,

r,ιrith

heads veiled, seated οη chairs \Λ/ßιh high backs and armrests, someiimes vrith footstools. Clothing rηras the mοsτ corτect imaginable and even the men, contentedly rest-

ing οη their left elborv,

rηrere

cloτhed from neck to toes as they dined (the ancient

equivalent of rvearing α òοατ and tie).

,,pical scenes found οη grave stelai are those that repτesent life beyond the grave as _.:and, uninτerrupted banquet.The eternal

'.mily

α

dinner was α Ceremony Testricted to the

circle; ηο strangeIs or foreigners appeared, ryhile each and every member of

_e household ιηταs ßη aτtendance. Thus, entire families \Λ/ere depicted with their eyes

red οη τhε dead, each rnrith

α cup

ßη hand, crorηlded into the limited space of the

:larble relief, Ατ τimes, rvhen the memorial stone

τηταs

insufficiently large, the men of

:ie family appear packed like sardines, ιητhßΙε the rηromen, deprived of space and need, _::g τhε habiτual chairs, appear to be perched like sirange birds at one corneτ of the ,:ic]inium.

.rd _

ß,{Ε

Ιτ

rvas imperative, horηrever, that eyeryone be included r,vithin the {ταmε

τhατ αΙ1 r,ηrives and daughters be correctly seated.

UNRESTRAINED BANQUETS OF ΜΕΝ

]reek males generally left their wives to dine

rηrith the

children i,vhile theμ Γree from

,1e cοηòτταßητs of their loved ones, indulged ßη the unfettered bonhomie of all-male :

ιηνßνßαΙ gaτherings. These gatherings took place ßη the

:

J τhis purpose that

-,re house reserved

,ers, unmarried

rηras

andron, α large

room dedicated

positioned near the entrance of the androceum, the part of

for men only.The

\^/omen

οf the house-motheIs,

rηrives, daugh-

sisters-could not enter the andron for αηγ reason ιvhaisoever, not

.\,en το clean it rηrhen it IMas empty. This does not mean, hoyrever, that the dinner

iuests lacked female companionship.

]he rηromen

rηrho lηrere permltted to enter the andron

did so οη

α

paid basis. They

ncluded fluτisτs and dancers, but most importantly \Λτοmεη of the oldest profession. These rηromen, horvever, \Λ/ere not Common Street prostitutes, but rather true Courtesans: ref,ned, beauτiful, and very costly.They dominated the social life of ancient

Greece, playing α role similar to that of the legendary Japanese geisha. Μαηγ of them .,l,ere rπeil educaτed and rηrere even permitτed το αττεηd τhe presτigious

schools of τhε τßmε, Given theiτ bεαυτγ and high spiriτs, ßτ

r.ιras

philosophy

easy for τhem to estab-

lish close τies τνßτh τheir professors, becoming r,vhaτ τοdαγ lιre might euphemistically call "friends rηrith benefits." Such friendships geneτally granted them exιra evening classes, vrhere τhε lessons covered τhε most varied subjecι mαττετ. Βγ τhe end of their

sιudies, τhese beauτiful creatures rηrould be ßητεΙΙεòτυαΙΙγ equivalenτ το τoday's dοòτοταΙ candidaτes, as urell as adept at their most lucrative

skills-those of

the

boudoir-for

after,The richesτ ciiizens gοι famous, valued, and sought rnrhich τhεγ rnrere jusτifiably

intobiddingwaISovelthem,andmanyvroulddrawupContIaCtSforaspecifredιin-ιe man το αΙΙ his dinner palιies, agreed ßο accompany the during ιητhßòh ιhe chosen one Needlesstosay,sherη.ouldalsoprovidehimι,ηrithaprolongedafτer-dinnertθte-λ-tÝιe.

Manyofthesewomen,whohadaιηrell_honedsystemforpaddingtheirbills'manage: ioaccumulatevasifbrtunes;rnriselyinvesιed,ιheserichesallorη,edιhemuponreιiremenitotΤansfolmthemselvesintorespectablephilanιhropisιs.Inorderiounderstand τheirimporιanceandcontributionstomen,Sbanquets,iτSuffiCeSιOSaythatAthenaeu. lisΙing the f,rst and fifτeen (Βοοκ s) το iheir function, dedicaτed one eητßτe book of discussing the most high-ranking CouIτeSanS, and names and addresses of τhe ιαòτ

detail, famous among τhem ßη greaι

highly promising; Ιhe guest knerv

\Δ/αs, τherefore, The premise of τhese mαιe banqueτs sιart yrith, as soon as α joyous as ßt was outrageous, Το to expect α lively evening, as ουτ οττ his cloτhes' Once he sτreτched he τοοκ ιt'" tιυ"ιγ of shedding

guesτ arrived'

thecouch,hecoveredthelov,.eτhalfofhisbodywithalightdrape,butthisvrasa merenodtomodestysincethemateτialhidliττleandsιirredιηriτhτheminuιestbreeze. Thecourtesansdidnoieveιboτherrviιhadrape,puτiingtheirexpensivemerchandise ondisplayvrithoutairaceofshame.Theafternoonrnrouldunfoldinthemostunbridled fashion possible,

Onecanimagineιhaιanyτhingandeverythingmighτhappenaiihesebanquets,rvhich lastedformanyhours.FromthebeginningofτhefifthCenιuryonr,ηrard,dinnerguests'

knor,ιringιheyιvereinforalongevenι,goiinthehabiιofbringingtheiτornrn..night vases,,(chamberpots).Eupolisasked...Well,then,r,ηrhofirsτsaid.slave,achamber_ lasτed for cen_ (Aιhenaeus ι , ι 7e), This cυsτοm drinking?" his of' midst the ßη potl' during cerτain use of chambeτ pots \Λιαs prohibiτed excepτions,The few α wiτh turies,

religiousfesιiyals,suchastherlιualdinnerinhonorofApollo,heldaτNaucratis,the homelandofourorηrnAthenaeus.Theywerealsobannedforashorιιimeunderthe ruleofEmperorHadτian'buττhismaybeascribedιoτhefactthaτhehadinstaιled excellentsanitaryfaciiiτiesinhissurroundings.Otherrηrise,commodeswereaιrnrays of them right υρ Ιο the end of Ιhe banqueιS, We hear mεηιßοη pIesenτ αß men'S

RomanEmpire'andτheymayindeedhavebeenusedevenlongerτhanτhaτ.Thesejars'

often fashioned out of precious metals, accompanied importanτ people and emperors ιο their nulnerous banquets. Iη fifth century g.C. ceramics, \Λ/ε see τhem represenιed ßη ,{uests' hands. Unfortunatelμ we also Κηοτητ that chamber ροτs \Λ/ετε used for purposes liher than the obvious ones. When too much lιrine overheated τhe aτmosphere, and

,erιain old arguments and puckish impulses arose, τhe ροτs made perfecτ projecτiles ,Dr those ß.ητhο did ηοt agree rηrith the ideas being expressed.Aeschylus, ßη one of his .aιirical comedies, imagined the Homeric heroes so drunk τhατ during α dinner τhεγ regan to break their pots over each others'heads (Aτhenaeus ι.I7c), r.ιrhile Sophocles, _r The Achaeans'Dinner-Guest, \η/τοtε: "But ßη α burst of anger he threrηr τhe unsavoury :οτ, and missed ηοτ; and οη my head the vessel smashed, breaτhing not of balsam,

ld

'.\-e

τhε unlovely smeil smote me lviτh frlght" (Aτhenaeus ι.I7d). can also point to anotlrer scene common to these specτacles, οfτeη shorvn ßη

:lgurative art and liteτature: that of drunken men νοmßτßηg, lviτh τhε aid of α compii-

:rι

handmaiden. Το be fατ from such scenes

\Λταs

one benefit of τhe fαmßΙγ τvomen's

_,rcumscribed role αt this time.

ΗΕ PARASITES ]esides the courtesans, musicians, and dancers-male or female-theτe rvas yet .:]othel inteτestlng group ofpeople αι these feasτs: the "parasiτes" or parτy-crashers. ,hese

rηrere

men who insinuated themselves into the feasτ, usually τνßτhουτ ßηνßτατßοη,

,nd often found themselves rηrithout α couch, forced το sßτ οη τhe floor. The ραταòßτe ],ecame α stock character at ancient Greek banquets as \ηιεlΙ as fodder for τhe comedies f that era. Some of these hangers-on r,ηrere famous and even tolerated to α large :\teΠt, because among their chaτacteristics \vere α tαlεητ for good conversaιion,

.larp

r.ιrit, and αη

obliging nature. It is evidenτ

α

τhατ τητßτhουτ τhese gifτs, such men

ouid find themselves alone and unable to sclounge υρ α meal. Α potential sponger, ,ndertaking this path, had to demonstIate αη excepτional sense of humor and α lvill_ ,,,

-]gness to

seτve-only

the clever, fun, and useful men \Λ/eIe suffered το òταγ and

-. rvould be α mistake to

:ackground at

think of the Greek sponger as

α banquet.

Οη the contrarΙ he

τηΖαs

α figure rηrho hoyered

ßη

eατ.

τhe

always visible and forrvard.

:-ιhenaeus dedicated α good portion of his sixτh book το τhe mosτ famous freeloadeτs

ß Greece, men capable of doing anything

το assure admiττance το α ryell_laden ταble.

Corydus He lisτs seveτal by τheir picτuresque nicknames:Tlτhymallus βhe Greedy), Μeαιγ one (the Skyιark), the Goby, the Seed Pot, the Mackerel, and the Littιe

called Callimedon, oτherrnrise knorπn as τhe Lobsτeτ (or Athenian fishmongers Cτayfish); this one \η/αò So uriιdιy fond of Crustaceans that the clutching α ιobster proposed erecting α bronze Statue of him, eteτηαιιγ triumphant, (Aτhenaeus

ßη his

6,z3sfi). One

\ηταò

fisτ.

α couch, τhey urere ηοτ Generally if τhese parasiτes could ηοτ commandeeI α òροτ οη enough τhατ ßη one comedy r,ιre above òßττßηg αß τhe feeτ of α guesτ, α praciice Common by α fτeeιoader \ητhßιe he rnriiness α young man of good connections being ambushed ττßeò το shake τhe inτruder off, using every 1ηταò recιining ατ α banqueτ. The ροοτ γουτh says, and hesides τhere is excuse he can τhßηκ of: τhe banqueτ is αι1 bυτ finished, he iS ηοτ το be discour_ αbòοιυτeιγ ηο Space οη his couch for anyone eιse. Βυι τhe ραταòßτe aged. Wßτhουτ α τrace

ßη τhe

Ιeαòτ.

of embarrassmenτ, he says, "Νοτ το \Λ/οιτγ:

"I'm Iη αηγ case," he concludes cheeτfully,

τhατ'ò ηοτ ßmροτταητ

α fοοτòτοοΙ

kind of guy,"

DISTINCTIVE DINNERS there are Platoº Dinners: Logicallμ τhere were also iiterary suppels, as

ßη every

age,

fτοm ιhose Dinners among phiιosophers, iimited to men οηlγ, r,ιrere different ßηιelιeòtυαι merit, described above, aS one might expect. They vrere certainιy fυιl of to be sure, bui one geτs τhe sense τhατ τhey ιιτετε hardly sparkling,

ic (37z,c) οf the sort of dinner that the ßdeαι citizens of the fish. When his com_ future might share, αη austere meαι notabιy lacking ßη meat and τhατ τheγ \^,/eIe το be served ηο relishes ατ τheßτ ραηßοη Glaucon τemaτks τhατ ßτ seemed deiicacies as òαιt, oιives austele meaιs, Ριαtο contradicts him: ιhey vrouιd be given such

Ριαtο vrrote ßη The

Repubι

(Recipe 6), and cheese, as

τητeιι as ιαmραòòßοηß,

the wiιd hyacinth buιbs that needed

α

render them edibιe great deαι of artifice to heιρ them ιose their bitteτ flavor and Such meαι, Ριαtο assured Gιαυòοη, $/aS to be finished ofΓrηrith treats (Recipe 9).The frgs, chickpeas, and fava beans. Saτed τriιh such gasτronomicaι

aS

ττeατò, τhe guesτS rηrould

mγττΙe berτies and acorns, pass τheßτ τßme afτer dinner, seaied around, τhe fire, roasiing

rvhiιe they sipped, obviousιy ßη great moderation, one ask of life?

\Λ/ateIed r,ηrine.

What more òουιd

- ,, αι

Supper:

Continuing ßη the realm of philosophers,

\η/ε

have α descripτion

of

_, .'l-r, equally sumptuous banquet given by Parmeniscus the Cynic. The dinneτ ., leld ατ τhe home of Cebes of Cyzicus, during τhε feast of Dionysos inAτhens -,.

-.]laeus α. 156-ò8). From

i::,]ýs Parmeniscus, there

τητhαt r.ηre

rηras

understand, there

r.ηrere

nine ραττßcßραητò,

the o\^/nel of the house, plus six cynics, and Carneius

- ].legara.

Ι

.:αττ, rivers of lentil soup rπere served (Recipe ι5).They had barely finished it ',Ξ] another type of lentil soup arrived (Recipe I6);next came lenτils seasonedrηriτh

' ::αι. Αt this point, one of the guests, being

α

Cynic and τherefore feeiing εητßτΙεd

:cspise the shabbiness of life, had reached the end of his paτience. Jumping το his '::,. rι-ith his hands upraised to the heavens, he prayed that Zeus τ.ητουΙd punish τhe ,,.1','e responsible for drornrning them ßη lentils.Tlvisting the knife furτher, αΙΙ pres-

:, the host, ιηιhο r,ηras responsible for the misdeed, and one guesτ-joined -except : .]e prayer. One Cynic, horηrever, came to the defense of τhε lorvly ΙεητßΙ, chiding α ':, -ιι $11θst named Plutarch (not the historian Plutarch of α later cεητυτγ):"Υeτ, γου '-::]

-

,,.

of fair Alexandria, Plutarch, have been brought υρ οη ΙεητßΙ food, and your εητßτε is ll of lentil dishes" (Athenaeus a.I5sd). Certainly true, but probably also the

-:1>οπ ιvhy poor Plutarch had had enough of them.

_._eed, one should ηοt belittle the lentil: this greatly economical legume played α

:-,:ιor role ßη feeding the less r.ηrell-off. It seems thατ τhe οηΙγ drar.ιrback rηras τhε ηαòτγ

:.Ll :

ιhατ iingered οη the eater's breath, lιrhich some apparently (or perhaps apoc-

:lraliy) tried to ameliorate by adding fragrances,

Sτταττßs of Phoenicia gave τhese ' ,:ds to his characteτ Jocasta: "I rηrish tο give γου t\νο some r,ηrise advice; ι.ιrhen γου , .òε lenτil-soup don't pour ßη perfume" (Athenaeus 4, I6oc). Regarding fragrance ßη

:.'ßß1 soup, there

lething

ιηταs

even α Greek pτoverb, used rηrhen one r,ηranted to indicaτe τhατ

has gone amiss. Thus, ßη α theatrical piece by Sopaτer, α characτer exclaims,

-]dl,sseus of lthaca is here; as the saying goes, the perfume is

, xage,

ßη the soup. Have

my soul!" Ιη αηγ case, ientii soup may have made for bad breath, but it

.:red τhe pulpose of filling the stomach, and α lentil soup is alrvays very tasty. Let -. ηοτ forgeτ τhατ Esau transferred his birthτighτ το ]acob for α ρlατε of lentils.

\MEDDιNG BANaUETS the most ioyous and {τee {τοm dinner restrictions, and rηre τνßΙ1 present α pair of exampΙes. One describes the rvedding mem_ of α miser, r,ηrhiιe τhe oτheI exempιifies α marriage feasτ given by α very τνeαιτhγ

Οf

αι1

the ιypes οf banquets, the uredding banquet

\Λ/αò

ber of α royal family, as open-handed as the miser rvas penurious,

(Kock 3,376;Athenaeus ιa,64ad-e), Euangelus pTeSenιS the miserιy head of house as he orders his sιave about:

Ιη the comedy Unveiling of

the Bride

tοιd γου to Set fouΙ tabιes for the rηromen and six for the men; the dinner to be is to be compιete, and ηοt α thing must be ιacking. We \^/ant the wedding Ι'ιι teιι γου every_ α bτßιιßαηt one.You don't need to ask questions of anyone eιse;

Father: Ι

thing, keeping my eye οη γου the

τηΙhßιe.

As to the f,sh, γου shalι buy αlß the kinds

got veal, young So\^/S, suckιing_pigs, hares. γου ιßκe; for tlre meat CourSeS γου have Cook's boy (aside):What α braggart this damned fellorηr is!

Father:Platteroff,g-leaves[Recipeιz],cheese,mouιdedcakes. Cook: Βογ there, Father:

Dromon!

Α Lydlan sauce, some eggò,

α

nice meal-cake,

,

,

The lηredding feasτ hosτed by Caranus \Λ/αò αη enτirely differenτ sorτ of affair, α banqueι Countrμ served according tο the Customs of Alexander ιhe Great's homeιand. Ιη ιhat gifτs το τhe τhe bride and groom received gifτs from friends, bυτ τhe hοòτ also gave This cusτom persisτed ßητο τhe l9oos, ßη Greece and elseyrhele: guesτs ατ α ball guesτs.

or α grand dinner

alr.ιrays Ιefτ vriτh α SouveniT. Βυτ τhe gifτs parceled

ουß το τhe parτici_

pants αß Caranus's banquet \Λ/ere ηο mere trinkets, Turenτy

guesτs-a

selecτ and arisτocraτic

group-came to this littie

desτined το go doιvn ßη hisτory, Everyτhing abouτ ßτ

τΛ/αò

feast, rryhich rηras

ηοτe\Λ/οττhγ and exτraordinary,

described ßη greaτ deταßl ßη Aτhenaeus's fourth book: the luxurious furnishmeal, lngs, τhe richness of τhe foods and \Λ/ines, τhe eητeιταßηmeητ τhατ brighτened τhe began and, above αlι, τhe gifτs offered το τhe guesτs.The distrlbuιion of these trifles and ßτ

τηταò

i.mmediaτely; indeed,, τhe guesτs had barely sprar.ιrled οη τheir couches vrhen each

':_Ξ,ßed

α

gift of

.,:d οη ιhe

α silver cup, as

well as α golden

cτο\ητη of inestimable value τhατ lηraò

guest's head υροη arrival.The rain of precious gifts seemed never το

:.:c: having barely emptied their cups, they vrere each offered α bronze Corinτhian

-. , ιompletely covered lηrith a large loaf of bread. Arτfuliy placed on τop of τhe bread ::- chickens, ducks, doves, geese, and every kind ofmeat. Each guest accepted his :.'. of food and, after tasting the delicacies, passed τlrem οη το τheir αττεηdαητ ,,-_.r ιhe next course ιηταs served, and each guest

\η/αs

slaves.

presented ιηdth anoτher large

].::ιετ, this time ßη silyer and covered urith α focaccia (Recipe ι), οη ivhiclr were dis-".,.,ed roasτ

kid goats (Recipe Ζι), geese, specially and individually designed sandwild game. Once again, after the

,_:hes, τhεη pigeons, doves, parιridges, and other

. _.sιs sampled these dishes, tlrey r.ιrere passed οη to the slayes. Wherr τhe guesτs had

:.:-η τhεßτ fill, τhεγ --: :}ιßs -_,1.

rηrashed their hands,

point, each guest

ιηταs

offered α flora1 cro\\In, bυτ το render τhe gifτ more lasτ-

each rηras also given another golden cro\yn, as heavy and valuable as τhe firsτ.Then

-.:ne various toasts. The guests

'

rηrere

oyerrηrhelmed by the excitemenτ, and even more

rl-hen the flutists, singers, and Rhodian sambuca players enτered. The girls appeaτed be naked, but may merely have been dressed ßη very transparenτ τunics, When τhe

_:ιists left, α succession οf :,irer gold,

ner-ιr

girls aτrived, each carrying

held together by α golden band and cοηταßηßηg

τυτο jars, one silver, τhe α liτer of perfume. These

.-so rηrere given to the guests. After this, huge, heavy, gold-plaτed silver τrays arrived,

:lch bearing α pig stuffed with αΙ1 sorts of delicacies: thτushes, ducks, rηrarblers, τητhεατ :llenta lvith egg, oysters, and perirvinkles. As alrvays, each guesτ uras given his οτ,ητη .:αß and his οιπη pig. Then follorηred boiled kid gοατ οη precious plaτes for each το ταΚe ,,lme, ßη addiτion to golden spoons.

-lSι

then, as the guests asked themselves hοιητ they could manage το carry home such

:jl arlay of gifts, Caranus ordeτed his servants το give his friends baskeτs and chesτs for .re bread; the chests lηrere fashioned from thin sτrips of ivory. The delighτed guesτs .rpiauded. Immediately, another gold croιvn and more perfumes ßη jars arrived, :S costly as the previous gifts. Then follorηred the mοsτ

]υòτ

lively enτerτainmenτ, iτhyphallic

dancers (ßη honor of Dionysos), clor.ιrns, and nude acrobats, rvho peτformed

r,ηrith τhε

sharpest of sr,ηrords r.ιrhile spouting fire from their mouths. ηοτ γετ over. Iτ continued ßη grand style: gifts of gold cups and r.ιrines {τοm Thasos, Mende, and Lesbos r,ιrere passed out, immediately follor,ιred by α crystal

The ραττγ ρΙαττετ

\η/αs

for each

guesτ. This ρΙαττετ \Λ/αs t\Λ/ο

ported beneath by α silver

τταγ,

cubits (8ο cm) ßη diameter and

rnras

sup-

full of every type of fish and seafood imaginable

(Recipes Ζ6-+9) \Λ/ßτh ßτ came yet more silver baskets, with loaves of Capadocian bread. When τhε guesτs had εατεη α morsel, they passed the rest tο the siaves. Again,

τhεγ washed their hands, and, ττυΙγ pampered, \Λ/ere plesented rηrith yet anoτher

golden cup, τhis one

ττητßòε as

heavy and valuab]e as the others. With it came another

double vase of perfumes for each guest. They began το drink ßη earnest. One of the guests called for α gallon-sized cup, had ßτ fllled rnriτh Thasian urine uriτh barely α drop of rηrater added, and promptly drank ßt dorηrn, saying, "The more one drinks, the fειητετ oηe's \Λ/οεs." Caranus,

full of admira-

tion for this feat, gave him τhε cup and offered to do the same for αηγ urho folloιηred suit. ΑΙΙ tried and succeeded except for one. The lailure sat and \Λ/ept at his lack of suc-

him by giving him α cup

cess, but his host consoled

Meanwhile, τhe εητετταßηmεητ continued as

αηγ\^/αγ.

α hundred-man

chorus sang

α

wedding

song, follor.ιred by dancers dressed as Nereids and nymphs. Time passed pleasantly and

night fell. Suddenly the amazed guests

r.ηrhite

rηrere τreaτed

linen curtains that surrounded the room

flerηr open. The

to α remarkable scene: against the dark background of the

garden, statues appeared representing Cupids, Dianas, Pans, and Hermae, and each

ßßt ιorch. As the guests marveied at this sight, they rηrere each served α large lιrild boar laced υρ ττßτh silver filigree and arrayed οη α square, golden platter. For ιηrhaτever held

α

reason, either the beauty of τhε presentation

οι the gift itseli this last and most unex-

pecτed gßfτ ρυτ αΙΙ τhε guesτs ßητο τhε highest of spirits. Meanwhile, τhε slayes sτarted to pTepare for the Teturn home, packing the gifts into the ivory chests. The guests οηΙγ arηraited the Macedonian cusτom

still they drank, but

nornr

of trumpets heralding the close of the banquet. Yet,

from small cups, r.ιrhile

α comedian enteltained them.

more ivory chests arrived, this time urith desserts-s\Λ/eets of ]6

αΙΙ

Finally

types from Cretan to

. :,_,an-each pτesented ßη αη elegant box, much as sugared almonds are doled out at

,

-:,.'s ltalian and Greek weddings.The guests, grateful and overioyed, bid τheir hosτ

.

:-bl,e, i,vishing him the best from the bοττοm of τheir hearτs.

ro surprise, then, tο hear that Hippolochus the Macedonian, one of the guesτs, :. . α detailed account of the banquet ßη α letter to his friend Lynceus, rvho had had ::ai-behind inAthens (Athenaeus 1.ι28-I3od).The former teased the latter saying ,,. rιlrile Lynceus remained atAthens to celebrate the Lenaean festival, eating the tra, -

,

_,ηαΙ feast day bread, flavored rvith arugula and thyme, Hippolochus and his fellorηl

-..τs "have carried α\η/αγ α fortune from Caranus's banquet instead οf trifling por, s, and are ηο\^/ looking for houses or lands or slaves to buy"

.

GREEK MENUS :::αßηlγ not

αΙ1

meals

r.ηrere

ivedding feasts, and the fare offered at α cheery dinner

, iriends rryould be less elaborate. Regardless of τhε size of τhε meal, ßτ ιvas generally -,]οτιαηt to be mindful of expenses.

- ]ELICIoUS ΥΕΤ ECONOMICAL ΜΕΝυ _

,,. Γourth-third century poet Alexis, ßη Crateus, or

The Apothecarμ

gives us αη example

: -.l,hat,

during his time, lηrould have been considered α simple menu, as rryell as οττε rfΓer οη the spur of the moment to those defined ßη Greek as "friends of sαlτ and

:ins"; that is to

. :ιι of salt.

intimate fτiends urho rryou]d share

Iη this comedy, one οf τhe characτers lisτs

,::pare for such First, then, Sea, and α

say, those

τητhατ

α meal of jυsτ beans and

he finds

ατ

τhε markeτ το

α meal:

1

spied oysters, r,vrapped ßη searveed, ßη the shop οf αη o1d Μαη of the

sea-ιιrchins ιοο [Recipe 8];Ι grabbed them; for they are the prelude to

daintlly ordered dinner. Next,

Τ

came υροη some ΙßιtΙε fish, αΙΙ trembling for

fear of what rvas tο happen to them. But Ι bade tlιem have ηο fears as far as Ι was

concerned, promising that Ι ιι.ουldη'ß harm α sing}e one, and bought α large greyfish. Then Ι took αη elecιric ray-fish [Recipe 38], being mindful ιhat rηlhen α

lady lays tender fingers υροη it she mιιst ηοι suffer αηγ hurt from its thorny

touch. For the frying-pan

1

got some wrasse, sole, shrimp, jack hake, gudgeon,

perch, and sea-bream, and made the dlsh gayel than α peacock. Then came some

meats-feet, snouts, and svrines'ears [Recipe ι9], and liver rvrapped ßη

caul; for

it is ashamed of ßτs ovrn livid coior. Νο professional cook shall come neal these,

οι

even ΙοοΚ υροη them. He

will rue it, let me tell γου. Raιher, Ι shall myself

act

as stervaτd, so cleverlμ so smooιhly, and elegantly (yes, 1 shall make the dish

myself), tlrat Ι shall cause the feasters novr and then to push their teeth into the plates for very joy.The prepalation and composition of αΙΙ these foods Ι am ready

to disclose, proclaim, and teach for nothing if anybody rηrishes to learn, (Kock Ζ.Ζ33; Athenaeus 3. Iο7)

Thus,

ιητε

have α menu consisτing of α seafood antipasto, boiled or roasted frsh, fried

fish, α mixed grill, and, finally α bit of liver ßη α net. What's more,

\Λτε

find α generous

cook, rηrilling to shaTe his secrets.

Α DELUXE DINNER Sometimes α host spared ηο expense and filled the table dishes, From

τητhαt τητε

fourth centulies B.C.

τητßth αη

unending variety of

have read, ure note that α Greek banquet betrη,een the fifth and

\Λ/αs

αη extremely serious dining experience, τη,ßth so many and

such α variety of offerings that even if one merely tasted ιητhαt

r.ηras

offered, one rnrould

haye το have α superhuman αρρετßtε to reach the end, Philoxenus of Cythera ßη α ρßαγ called The Banquet (PlG 3.6oι;Athenaeus +.|+6-47) lists more than thirty-five courses. Even if many of these servings consisted of bread, sandrηriches, οτ focaccia, the list

offerings was enough tο make even Gargantua and Pantagruel blanch. And slayes ιτναßη brought υηßο us α table with iη.el1-oiled face, another for others, rηrhile other

henchmen bore α third, until they filled the chamber. The tables

glistened ßη the rays of τhε high-slvinging iamps, fτeighted rvith trenchers and

condiments delectable ßη cruets, fuli.

..

and luxuriant ßη divers artful inventions

to pleasure life, tempting lures of the spirit. Some slaves set beside us snowytopped baτley cakes ßη baskets, vrhile others (brought ßη ioaves of rι,,heat).After them flrst came ηοt αη ordinary tureen, my love, but α riveted vessel of huge size;

...

α

glistening dish of eels to break our fast, full of conger-faced morsels

of

ιlται lιrould delight α god [Recipe 3I].After this another pot οf the same size caIne ßη, and α soused ray oΓperfect roundness.There rηrere small kettles, one

containing some meat of α shark [Recipe 3ò], another α sting-ray [Recipe 3ο]. -\τιother rich dish ιhere rvas, made of squid and sepia-polyps rvith sofτ τenτacles [Recipe α7]. After this came α grey mullet hot from its contact

lιhole

as large as the table,

fire, the

τητßτh

exhaling spirals of steam,Afτer this came breaded

squid, my friend, and cooked pra\\Ins done brourn. Foliowing tlrese we had flor,ver leaved cakes and fresh confections spiced, pufΓ-cakes of wheat τνßτh frosτ-

ing, large as the pot.This is called the "navel of the feast" by γου and me. Last ι}rere

came-ιhe gods

are my

wltnesses-a monstrous slice of tυηηγ [tuna],

baked hot, from over the sea where it

r,ηras

carved lvith knives from the meatiest

part οf the belly [Recipe 32].

:-,-lrenus Continues his description of the meats and others CourSeS Served, So _::lerous that the poet lost count, listing them one after the other ßη αη inτerminable _:,- og: enτrails, tripe, Ιοßη, and leg of domesτic pig, kid gοατs cut ßη hali the legs, ::,. ribs and head of α pig (Recipes Ζ4 and Ζ5), and α filet flavored rηrith silphium ,-] e\tinct plant also used medicinally).

Nor did ßτ sτορ τhere, because τhε narraτor

..':es that rηrhen these morsels were gone, the containers were rηrithdralyn and :::aced by others: "Kid and lamb, boiled and roast, and sweeτesτ morsel οf under:le enτIails from kids and lambs mixed, such as the gods loye, ,:rrg

...

jugged hare, and

cockerels, and many hot portions of partτidge and ring-doyes

\Λ/ere ηο\Δ/

..,shly laid beside us. Loaves of bread there rvere, light and nicely folded; and com-

:.:roning there came ßη also yeiloinr honey and curds, and ,

as for cheese...." And

,:h τhßs, and thankfully, the banquet ended and τhε guests yrashed their hands.

'.:ge amounts of food, but one does not hear mention of αηγ vegetables, either _, lked or Iaw, ηοτ s\Λ/eets or fruits, erren though these exisτed and vzere consumed ,'' good quantity. From citations of fifth-century Greek auτhors rnre have α record of , rich fruits and vegetables r.ηrere sold ßη the Greek market of the era.

REGIONAL GASTRONOMY AND CUSΤOMS ΑΙΙ Greeks gaτheIed τogeτher το feasι, bυτ they did not eat the same things nor did they eατ

ßη τhe same sτyle everyr.ιrhere. Greece, ßη fact,

òτατeò, each ροßßτßòαΙΙγ and

r.ηras

economically independent

divided into its numerous city-

of-and

αΙΙ τhe oτhers, This independence exτended to the ατεηα

for producing one's banqueτs. We read ßη Diphilus's

often enemies

vrith-

οf gastronomy and the rules

TheWomanl4/ho Left Behind Her

4.ι33c; Kock Ζ.545) thατ τhe cook, before choosing α menu, asked rιrhere τhe guesτs r.ηrere {τοm. The head of the house impatiently asked

Husband (quoτed inAτhenaeus

τητhατ

τhe devil difference ßτ τητουΙd make, υροη ιηrhich the chef explained that there

rηrere

differeni

τaSτeS

and manners ßη the various cities of Greece and that to be able

ιο please τhe guesτs, he needed tο knoyr

rnrhere they came

from.Thus,

ιητε

learn that

allloved eating "large sheat-fish" (shad?) or α lebias (αη unidenτified fish) and τhey expecτed ßτ το be served hot, Ιη Byzantium, οη the other hand, τheγ made everyτhing ßητο soup and seasoned it with quantities of absinthe τhe people οf Rhodes above

(bßττετs), garlic, and

sαΙτ.

Menander ßη his ºτορhοηßυs (again, quoted ßη Athenaeus 4. ι32e; Kock 3.I3Ζ) repeaτs τhis ßηfοτmατßοη. Iη τhis comedμ rηrhen discussing rvhat to offer α foτeigner for dinner, one of τhe speakers said τhατ one had to

Κηοι.ητ lηrhere α

guest came from because it

chef For example, those coming from τhε Greek islands \Λ/ειε accusτomed το εατßηg α great dea1 of fish of αΙ1 kinds, but they ate it fresh, ουτ of τhε sea, and rηrere τherefore "not at αΙΙ atiracted to preserved fish." If they were

rηrould make α difference το τhε

obliged το

εατ ßτ τhατ uray, τhεγ rvould

do so unrnriilingly; they vrould prefer "force-

meaτs and highly seasoned dishes." The Arcadians, οη the other hand, perhaps because τheγ lived far from τhe sea, rπere fascinated rηrith anything marine, especially biyalves,

ιηrhile the lonians appreciated οηΙγ hearty rich foods "that provoke desire." These remarks make sense if one undeτsiands that each city made α

proving

αΙ1

shor.ηr

of disap-

that pertained to ßτs rivals, and that each city made fun of the others.

Regional criτiques, above αΙΙ τhose made by the comedic dramatists,

\Λ/ετε

not just

based οη τhε cusτoms οf each poiis but also οη the characteristics of its citizens. These 1abs

could be highly εηιετταßηßηg and everyone took part, laughing at the Athenians,

, - SpaItans, theThebans, and even the Greek colonials of Syracuse andTaranτum alike,

Ξ.:h )est centered οη the regional characteristics, the preferred food choices, and τhε ,es and caprices of each group, and ηο one \η/αs spared. Let us examine these ßη _

-_ck succession, starting with mythic Athens, the cradle of civilization and

-

_,lENS

αττ.

-..e ,\thenian menu \Λ/αs the butt of many dramatists' jokes. From their r.ιrritings, rve

.--.]\\-that lt rvas composed of α series of bite-sized tastes, diverse but small.This cus

η

perslsts even today. One needs οηΙγ to go to ΡlαΚα and ask for ουΖο, the anise-

_.-.,ored Greek liquor, to find that one geis α seτies of Ιßτdε biτes ιηιßτh τhε drink, τhe ,

=inber and quality οf the offerings depending οη the level of τhe establishment. Even

]]:ο τhε recent past, Greek Ιατν prohibited esιablishments from serving ουΖο ιητßτhουt

..ο

serving food. Ι remember αη open-air locale ßη remotest Crete, where the tables

.,,-ere

left over from the last urar-huge, round barrels τhατ once held fuel for τhε

-::rerican fleet. There, seated under the stars, we ordered glasses of ουΖο and r,vaτched

.. ιhe rηraiter arrived, staggering under the rveight of α large tray, rvhere, besides our .:eriτii there r,ηrere numerous plates heaped wiτh such foods as τhe Greek comedic ]:amatists lηrrote about tr.ιrenty-five hundred years ago. The menu had not changed ,-:rce the age of Pericles. Ιt ιvas α delicious \Λ/αγ to pass αη afιernoon, but it rηras ceτ-

.ßηΙγ ηοτ

α meal tο satisfy. Nevertheless, this repast, today ραττ

::ultiplied several times over,

τητουΙd

οf τhε Greek aperiτif

have constituted the entire ancient Athenian meal.

l-early one can assume α bit of exaggeration οη the part of τhε comic :robab}y such skimpy fare

rηras

r,ηrriτers,

and

more characterisτic of αηòßεητ eaτeries τhαη privaτe

.'omes. But for those rηrho did not ο\η/η α home, this

,le comedianAlexis fromTunis, ßη his :

if

τηταs

rηrhat the market offered and

a.I37c-d), had ßt said besτ cooks ßη τhε òßτγ, because,

Running Mates (Athenaeus

] one of his characters that he ought το hire τhe

τlητο

_rιending tο invite α guest from Thessaly, he did ηοτ \Λ/αητ το expose said guesτ το τhε .,,pical Athenian offeτings: "I must ηοt streτch τhε genιleman οη τhe rack οf famine by

.:ingily setting before him each little dish separately." \long the same lines, Lynceus, ßη

The Centaur,

makes fun of Ατhεηßαη dinners and τheir

:umerous minute portions, so small that they rvould not even be shared 21

r,ηrith α

friend:

For Ιhe cook sets before γου α large tray οη rvhiclr are five small plaτes. One of these holds garlic, another α pair of sea-urchins, anoτher α sr,ηreeτ urine Potron:

sop, another ιεη cockles, ιhe last α sma]l piece of sturgeon. While Ι am eating Ιhis, another is eating that; and rvhile he is εατßηg thατ, Ι have rrrade arvay ινßτΙι thls. What Ι lvant, good sir, is both the one and the other, but my rvish is impos-

sible. For Ι have neither five rrrouths nor five right hands. Such α Ιαγ-ουτ as τhατ Seems to offer varietχ buτ bespatter my lips, Ι don't Cook:

ßι is ηοτhßηg

fill

at αlß to Satisfy the belly. For Ι simply

them. What, then, lrave γου?

Α lot of oysters.

Patron:You selve me α plate of them, αlΙ by itsel{ and ηοτ α small one, eiτher. Have

γου sea-urchins? Cook:Yes, ofthese γου shall have α second coulse. For Ι bought them myself,

fourpence (S obols) wolth. This Ιhen is the one dish γου shall serve by lτself τhaτ αlΙ may eατ ßτ alikenot Ι one thing, my companion another (Athenaeus 4. I3If-I3zc; Kock 3:z74). Patron:

Given these examples, it does not seem likely thατ Aτhenians ατε τητeΙl. Iη fαòτ, severaι authors PoItray the Athenian dinner as eyen \^/orse than τhατ of τhε ausτere Sparτans. Iτ dePended, moleover, οη the historical moment that the auτhor τηττοτe αbουτ. The Ιοτητ Point ßη Athenian dining rvas probably under τhε rule of Solon (sixτh-sevenτh cenτury B,C.), α harsh legislator \Λ/ho set sftict limits οη every form of luxury. He even vrroτe that one should οηΙγ serve economical, rustic barley bread ατ dinner: τηιheατ bread r,nras condoned οηΙγ οη special occasions. Solon did ηοτ stop τhere: he imposed οη τhe citizens αη absolute prohibition οη the purchase of imporτs. His felΙοß,ητ ciτizens τοοκ him at his rvord; they ηοt οηΙγ observed his laws, buτ caτried τhem το τhe ροßητ of absurditY. Chrysippus ßη his tract Οη Pleasure and Good (Aτhenaeus +.τ7η ιecουητò τhατ ßη the lYceum and the academy there rηrere τ$/ο τταdßτßοηαΙ banqueτs held every year. Once, α cook for one of these feasts dared tο carry ßη α casserole dish desτined for Some other use, and the indignant sufferers, beiieving τhατ τhe cook ιηταò gυßΙτγ of smuggling, broke the dish into pieces. ΑρρατεητΙγ τhßs food dish repròsenτed τhe òοττ of extravagance that Solon had banned, though τητhατ could be seen as "eχftαναgαητ" about α baking dish remains α mystery today. Cerτainly ßτ rvas more reprehensible

:len α cook, ßη preparing α dinner, ρΙαγfυΙΙγ fashioned some salted meat to ΙοοΚ like . :sh. This cook ιηταs flogged "Γor playlng the impostor τητßτh his over-refinement."

:

{RTA

,:e Sparτans rvere alrvays the preferred target , :]en

of

αΙΙ

types of comedians. Even tοdαlι

τhis ciτy is menτioned, one τhßηΚs of τhe sτrict larnrs drafted by Lycurgus, tlre

.:sh Sparτan life sτyle, and the famous and infamous communal table, the οηlγ place

:

,r

-.:ι

hiclr òρατταη males might take τheir meals. Obligatory dining, yes, but not free; ßη τhe communal ταblε had nothing whatsoever to do rηrith modern ideas of α social

: rιellare sταιε. Thele _^.

\Δ/αs

το τhe community. Ιt

.:ld ßτ

rηras

ηο help for those urho did not rηrork and could not be use-

τηταs

mandated that equal portions

furτher required that

αΙ1

\η/ετε

given to

αΙΙ αt

meals

participants rryould cover the expenses for the

:laiιrτenance and upkeep of the communal table. Everyone contributed equallχ giving ,:,,,enτy-eighτ liτers of barleμ forty-trvo ]iters of rvine, plus α certain quantity of cheese

..,d figs, and ßτ rvas also expected that each ραγ the sum of ten Egypiian obols tor.ηlard ,le purchase of meat. Men could add someτhing extla, as α gßfτ to ιhe òοmmυηßτμ . ,ιι

ßι could

ηοτ be purchased goods: οηΙγ animals τhεγ had raised or game τhey had

_.rιured τhemselves.Those

rηrith

flocks gave lamb and goats; others gave ringdoves,

..ese, τurτledoves, τhrushes, blackbirds, or rabbits.The cook, rηrhen serving these :ιerings, announced the name of tΙιε one lιrho donated it, and the donor probably -.ceiyed α rηrell-deserved round οf appiause for his patriotism. daily fare was ρlαßη and sparse. Iτ rηras lisτed ßη full by Dicaearchus ßη his Tripoliticus ΞGH z.z4z,;Aτhenaeus 4. I4Ib):barley bread, α slice of boiled pork that could not

_:τe

.,,

eigh more τhαη αη etto (one quarτer of α pound), to rvhich

rηras

added the broτh

:ιιm boiiing τhe meat, and sometimes they even had olives (Recipe 6), cheese, and ,lιne figs, and rηrhatever roasted meat the donors brought. Οη top οf this, they drank . òιιρ of rvine. l.ι τhe end of τhis delicious repast, the young boys lvere given αη extra bit of food, _nanced by τhε rηrealthiest citizens, whi]e the ροοτ \η/ere compensated by being .,lowed to take α portion of reeds or stra\η/ to reinforce their drrye]lings. The boys' extra

:rτion of food consisted οf barley flour (imagine something like polenta), flavored 23

young boys avidly ate it with αη added bay leaf Cherving bay leaves αt the end of α meal was α pleasure not just reserved for the γουτh, bυτ αη ancienτ Gτeek habit. Callias (or Diocles) wroτe, ßη The Cyciopians: "Here come τhe dish of leaves, \Λ/ßth οßΙ, and the

ιητhßòh means αη end to

ουι dinners and our dances

as rryell" (Athenaeus 4, I4oe).

(Who ινουΙd be able to dance οη such α diet rηrill alr.ιlays remain α mγòτeτγ.) Today ßτ seems truly Sftange that the tough bay leaf rηrould be αη attracτive desserτ, bυτ back then they picked it clean. Often these Spartan communal meals

rηrere

local specialty as characteristic of Sparta

dominated by α famous black

as ρßΖΖα is

soup-a

of Naples and saf{τon-flavored

Iisotto is of ΜßΙαη, This dark soup seems το have had α disagreeabie flavor. As pluτarch relates ßη his life of Lycuτgus, α certain king of Pontus τηταητεd το sample τhis soup and he senι for α Sρατταη chef to prepaτe ßτ. The king had barely put the spoon ßη his

mouth

rηrhen he grimaced r,vith disgust. The cook let

it be

Κηοτητη τhατ ßτ rηras ηοτ his

fault τhat τhε monarch did ηοτ like τhε soup: "Sir, tο make this broth relish, γου should haye bathed yourseif first ßη the river Eurotas"' that is, ßη Sparτa's river. Iτ seems that the rest of the Spartans not οηΙγ sτηιαΙΙοιητεd τhßs soup, bυτ ατε ßτ ßητßτh pleasure and

added their bread to it, τυτηßηg it black as coal. Besides their food, Spartans rηrere also pilloried for their τυsτßòßτγ and ignoτance.

Exemplary of such sport is τhe ταΙε of α Spartan i.ιrho, finding himself ßη α more refined citχ rvas invited to α sumptuous supper, The antipasτo ρΙαττετ rvas heaped υτßτh foods completely υηΚηοτητη to him, including beauτiful sea urchins (Recipe s),The unschooled youth took one and, ßη fτοητ of his surprised, amused, and incredulous fellorηr guests, put τhe r,ηrhole sea urchin ßη his mouth: egg, shell, sharp spines, and α1l.

Naturally

\Λ/ßth his first bite, he

found himself ßη αη

arvkrηrard ροòßτßοη, bυτ, being

could not falτer. Struggling to keep his composure, he continued to cherry τhε lηricked τhing until he desτIoyed it completely. Triumphant, though ßη agony, he declared: "Υου malicious animal.You did not gετ me. I lητοη, me! Βυτ one τhßηg α Spartan, he

is certain, ßη the future Ι

truly respected,

τητßΙΙ

never eat another sea urchin." Never

rηras α νο\Λτ

more

-:,Ξ3ΕS

],,:lans

\Λ/ετε

said to be the most tight-fisted of the Greeks and τheir meals

rηrere

:..,:ibed as truly miserable.The historian Cleitarchus, ßη τhε firsτ book of his hisτory , ,:_,exander, relates that whenThebes r.ηras destroyed by that king, τhε ciτy's collecτive

:, ιh \Λ/αs iess than 44ο talents. Perhaps ιhis ιvas the reason for their frugal meals. , _ .ir suppers \Λ/ετε scraped together fτom thrion (stuffed fig leaves) (Recipe ιΖ),

-

,_-,'.rf;?,rab*",

'=_

-

,ι\,

,,

Recipe

ι4

ΡοLΕΝτΑ (coNDRoS) "Βυτ rηrhen making α dish of goat, iamb, οτ α chicken freshly killed, throrηr fresh grain (barley) ßη α ραη and crush it rηre]], mixing ßη fragrant οßl. When the broth is boiling vigorously,

put ßη the rest, then cover the ραη lηrith α lid and ieaye it to cook, covered, because that way the heavy mixture svrells, Serve τητßτh

α (τablespoon) of

ner.ηr

fr.68 Schneider).

lvine" (Nicander of Colophon,

Ι cup (25Ο ml) cooked barley 2 cups (5ΟΟ mi) shredded lamb or chicken, cooked º

οηßοη

º

tablespoon parsley

3 sage leaves 2 cups (5οο ml) broth 1/ι cup (6Ο ml) olive οßΙ

salt and pepper to taste

Το make this polenta, one can fοΙΙοιητ Athenaeus's instructions for barley soup or ιisana, Recipe ι3, replacing those spices and the ham τηdth the above spices and meaτ.

The οηΙγ problem τητßτh τhßs recipe is τhατ το make ßτ properly, one should live ßη the countryside rηrhere it is possible to get fresh stalks of barleμ lηrhich are not found ßη city markets. Υου can, horvever, substitute τrhite barley, or better yet, bulgur from Turkey Both of these require pre-soaking and then cooking for some hours. It is simpler, of course, to get packaged barley, Both

bulgur and this boxed barley are ready for cooking and οηΙγ τequire α good crushing ßη α mortar or α blender, leaving it somerηrhat grainy, ηοτ tοο fine.

Recipe ι5

ZENO,S LENΤIL SOUP Aτistophanes always served υρ modest lentil soup, rnrhether ßη his Gerytades or ßη his Amphiaraus (both novr lost), showing that it must be α pleasing potage. He calls it, "the s\Λr€etest of delicacies" (Athenaeus 4. i58c). Ι lb. (45Ο 9) lenti|s 8 cups (2 liters) broth

large minced leek º carrot, ] stalk of celery, and 2 tablespoons vinegar º

º

smal| οηßοη, αΙΙ sliced

Ι teaspoon honey

olive οßΙ º2 coriander seeds salt and pepper to taste

Rinse τhε lentils thoroughly then put them into α ροτ lπith the broth to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for one hour, When the hour is υρ, skim the top, add the vegetables and leave simmer again υητßΙ ßτ is cooked (about 3ο minutes). Ιf the soup seems too

,\ηßαtετ)ζ

mix ßη some cornstarch, or, better yet, pass some of

the lentils through α sieve. Νοι,ητ add the vinegar and honey. Pour ßητο serving bourls and add α good dollop of olive οßΙ (about Ζ

tablespoons per serving), sprinkling οη coriander seeds, and salt and pepper to taste, Ιτ seems as

ß ι

ι ι ι ι ß

ι ι ι ι

ι

ι ι ι t

ι

ι ι ι

L

vras pulling our leg urith this recipe, as he

to finish off the soup, one should add ιΖ coriander seeds. This commendable precision regarding α quantity is not common ßη ancient recipes, at least ßη those that are not medicßηαΙ, but assuredly these ιΖ coriander seeds radically change the

πτites

ι

if Zeno

τhατ

flavor of the soup.

Recipe

ι6

CHRYSIPPUS,S LENΤΙL SOUP This soup is basically like the one above, but Chrysippus,

τητhο

evidently loyed bitteτ flayors, recommends serving α soup com-

bining lenτils and rvild hyacinth bulbs. Iτ is doubτful

τhατ τhßs

be α very popular recipe, but, then, there ατε so many varying tastes ßη the rvorld. Apicius did not mention such α soup, τητουΙd

nor is there αη equivalent today but lf γου vrish, γου could make the soup according tο Zeno, but adding half α pound of pre pared hyacinth bulbs (see method above, at Recipe 9).

\ (( \_.

'Υ -ι ι

_

Recipe τ7

PERSΙSTENCE ΙΝ ΤΗΕ

\VILD GREENS Greens and herbs used ßη ancient times included vrild Ιeττυòe (dark is best), watercress, coriander, mustard, melon, ρορργ,

Today dishes based οη

N,]oDERN V/oRLD

ι ι

οηßοη

(as

ιητε11

as the variations such as scallions and leeks), gar-

lic, and celery.

scallions, leeks, 9arlic) \^/ater

teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons olive οßΙ º tablespoons vinegar

º

Piace the cleaned gIeens ßη cold, salted rπrater and bring to α boii,

making sure not to overcook them. Lift them carefully out of the pot r-ιrith α slotted spoon or large fork. Season them urith οß1 and vinegar.

Ιη Rome, one can nornr find α mixture of herbs such as those cited ßη the Greek recipe. This combination is generally large-leaf lettuce, chicorμ arugula, urild fennel, garlic, rπatercress, and mint leaves. I have never found coriander, melon, or rnrild mus-

ßη the mix, and οηßοη and

Certainly, anyone rnrho rηrishes

changed somervhat, or,ving to the introduction of Nev/ World plants, but they are directiy derived from the

2 lbs. (º kg) mixed greens, rarhatever is ßη season (Ι chose chicory, parsley, ce|ery, chard, onions,

τard

field and wild herbs have

celery are sold separately. could add to the list, and culti-

l-ated plants are iust as acceptable as wild.

traditional recipes. For example, the follovιin9 recipe for "Cooked \Yater" combines Old aιiιJ Nevy World foods.

«cooKED \^/AτER, This is α countTy soup, which can be served dry or soupμ according to the amount of rnrater used for cooking.

Belor,ηr

is αη

indicative iist of herbs, but one could use almost αηγ greens that suit your fancy. Ι-3 cups (1/4to1/2Iiter) cold \^/ater per person 2 sliced potatoes per person Jerusalem artichoke (or cardoon) hops

]

] bunch of chicory Ι

bunch of salad greens

Ι

bunch of red ρορργ floιyers

Ι bunch of borage 2 tablespoons of lard

chopped 9reen pepper to taste 3 or 4 cloves of garlic ] οηßοη α dash of sage

basil to taste The οηΙγ problem is finding αη obliging meadorπr that urili yield

of these soup ingredients. Α city dinreller could make his,/heτ ourn list and hopefully get from the greengrocer τhose ingredients not found ßη the urild-but be prepared fοτ some sτrange looks. Be that as it may if γου succeed ßη procuring αΙΙ τhese items, including cardoons (α thistle-like vegetable νßττυαΙΙγ unknorπrn ßη the United States), here's hour to make the soup. l Ρυτ cold, ΙßghτΙγ salted \Λ/ater ßη α ροτ and then add ßη τhe αΙΙ

]

Ι

Ι

|

When τhe potatoes are nearly cooked, add τhe greens, cut into large pieces, Peel the Jerusalem altichoke and chop coarsely. The otheτ greens should be urashed and cleaned,

ροτατοεs.

Ι

Ι I

I

discarding αηγ tough or discolored leaves. Νεχι add the lard, I peppeI, garlic, οηßοη, sage, and basil and stir. Let it boil for Ι Ζ5 minuτes. Serve it ßη α bolπl οη top of α slice of crusτy counιτγ

bread.

Ι

l

58

ι

Recipe r8

SALAD DRESSΙNG Ιη

The l4loman

Who Le[τ Her Husband, the αυτhοτ, εßτhετ Diphiius or

Sosippus, rηrrites the follorving: Α: Have γου got sharp vinegar ßη the house? Β: Ι fancy so, slave, and lve have bought rennet. ΑΙΙ this Ι rvil] squeeze together ßη α nice dish for them, and the salad r.ηrith sour dresslng shail be served for αßΙ" (Athenaeus 4. I33η.

cup (25Ο ml) curdled milk, buttermilk, or sour cream º tablespoon vinegar salt and pepper to taste º

Μßχ

αΙΙ ingredienτs,

chil] ßη the refrigerator, and pour ΙßghτΙγ

over salad.

The οηßγ problem i.vith making this simple dressing, yrhich is loly ßη calories, is finding curdled milk.You can make ο\Δτη

γουι

by adding α squeeze of lemon to fresh milk, or γου can use buttermilk οι sour cτeam, The recipe makes enough dressing for Γουτ iarge plates of salads.

Κτ*βξL Meat Recipe ι9

ALEXANDRΙAN MIXED ΒΟΙLΕD ΜΕΑΤS "Follolving these viands platters vrere passed round containing many kinds of meat prepared with water-feet, heads, ears, jarnrbones, besides guts, tΤipe, and tongues, ßη accordance rnrith the custom ßη shops αt Alexandria called 'boiled-meat shops"' (Athenaeus 3.9+c).

Αεχαηdτßαη boiled meats \Λ/ere α mix of various pork bik: feet, heads, cheeks, ears, tripe, intestines, and tongue, Iη Turkeμ another country that grevr and prospered under Hellenism, theτe aτe òτßΙΙ ιeòταυταητò rnrhere τhe sole ßτem οη τhe menu is ishkembe

πipe soup that seems to beaτ α close resemblance to Aιexandrian boiled meats. It is unimportant lηrhether there is ßη fαòτ α direcτ τeΙατßοη beτr,ηreen τhe τrnro. Whατ mαττeτò is τhe facτ

shorbasi, α

that, ßη Aιexandria, there rnrere speciaι restaurants that served οηΙγ one particular dish. Tτrenty yeals ago ßη Turkey, each small ιεsταυταητ (osτeria) \Λ/αs τßεd το α specialτy dish, If one did ηοτ wish to patronize αη Occidental style restaurant, one had to move from Iestaurant to Iestaurant ßη order to get α complete meal. If one had strong legs, α good appetite, and time to spare, this rπas α diverting \Λταγ to spend αη afternoon or evening, Ι do ηοτ know if τhßs is sτßΙΙ true todalι but Ι sincerely hope that ßη

Istanbul one can still move from α metze place to one serving doner kebabs, then move οη to α fish restaurant for fried clams ßη pastrμ then οη to α chippura, and finally end the evening rπith some loukum from α great bakery. 2 pig's feet ΥΖ pig's head

2 pig ears α bit of pork or beef tripe, according to taste

heart, lungs, liver to taste

pig's tongue 1 Ξ

t

medium οηßοη, minced

clove garlic, finely chopped ] small carrot, sIiced 1/Ζ cup (º25 ml) chopped parsley º teaspoon pepper º

1/Ζ

cup (125 ml) ιπhite ιaιine vinegar (if intestines are added, double the amount of vinegar)

and ι teaspoon of salt for each tr,vo quarts of\Λ/ater, and add standard soup seasonings: οηßοη, ceiery,

Fill α large pot with

\Λ/ater

garlic, carrots, parsley pepper, and rηrhite rvine vinegar. Bring the \^/ater to α boil, then add the meats, and reduce the flame to medium. Cook until tender (about 3ο-+ο minutes). Serve boil* ing hot and offer α sauce iηrith it, such as the mßηt sauce ßη Recipe Ζο. Note: Boiled pig can be very gamey. Using already-cooked head, cheeks, tongue, feet, etc. from the roasted, stuffed pig ßη Recipe ΖΖ yields α much better result: less fatty and more flavorful. This is especially true of the head and feet, since they are largely fat. The cheeks and the portion betrηreen the ears and tongue have the most meat. Our test cook declined tο use intestines.

-,\

§ Ν

-\^\

ß)

\Νιιιοιιιιιι.ι*,,:

Recipe υο

Ι,ΙΙΝτ SAUCE

This recipe for mint sauce is similar to the one at Recipe 4, but rnre found this version less cloying, and more delicious. 4 tablespoons dried mint (or Ι handful of fresh mint) º

teaspoon pickled green peppercorns

2 teaspoons saffloιiver

6 tablespoons (θΟ ml) olive οßΙ 2 tablespoons vinegar

Mint is easy to find and can even be grovrn ßη α rnrindornr box, Ιη bazaars ßη both Turkey and Egypt, the red pistils of safflo\Λrer, or "false saffron," are passed off οη the unsuspecting tourist, rnrho believes he or she is getting genuine saffron. It is nevertheiess

delicious. Chop αΙΙ the spices, or crush them ßη α mortar. Whisk the mixture into the οßΙ and vinegar, and add salt to taste, Let it sit for ατ least αη hour to allorπ αΙΙ the herbs to mingle urith τhε vinaigreτte. Excellent with the goat and ροτΚ τecipes follovring.

Recipe

Ζ

ι

RΟΑSΤ ΚΙD GOAT This recipe is from Apicius, but is evidentiy universal. "Take τhe baby goat and τυb it well with οßΙ, then toss οη pepper, α lot of salt and coriander seeds. Put it ßη the oven, roast it

and serve

it" (Apicius 8,6,8),

Ι/zbaby goat, about 5-7 pounds (2-3 kg), skinned and cleaned olive οßΙ plenty of black pepper

4-5 teaspoons salt α generous handful of coriander seeds

Place the goat ßη α large casserole, coating urell yrith olive οßΙ, and

rubbing ßη τhε salt and pepper. Before ρυτtßηg it ßη τhε oven, sprinkle it with coriander seeds. Piace ßη α 3Ζ5Ο F ( ι6ο" C) oven and bake, basτing it wßτh iτs ornln juices until ßτ falis off the bone (45 minutes to one hour). Delicious urith mint sauce, Recipe 2ο,

Recipe ΖΖ

SΤUFFED SUCKLΙNG PΙG Garden-style suckling pig, according to Apicius: "De-bone the pig starting at the throat, rendering ßt something similar to α rηrine skin, and fill it rηrith chicken meatballs, vrild doves, and thrushes, its οlητη meat added into meatballs, pitted flgs, dried and prepared rvild hyacinth bulbs, shelled snails, beet greens, leeks, celerμ boiled kale tops, coriander, peppercorns, pine nuts.

Οη top οf this, add ι5 hard-boiled and diced eggs, and α sauce made from liguamen (either garum or dressing from olive οßΙ, lots of crushed pepper. Brorηrn ραη and then put it ßη the oven." Apicius then con-

vinegar, and spices), mixed the pig ßη α

r,ηrith

cluded by suggesting sauces to serve

r,ηrith

ßt.

18-2Ο pound (4 kg) suckling pig For the stuffing: 2 thrushes (pigeons can be substituted and are easier

to find), de-boned and cut into small pieces small duck, de-boned and cut into small pieces 4-6 figs, diced ] cup (25Ο mI) cooked kale ß cup (25Ο ml) already cooked, dried, and diced hyacinth bulbs (see preparation method at 1

Recipe 9) teaspoon coriander cup (25Ο ml) chopped leeks 1 stalk celery, chopped 2 tablespoons pine nuts º pound (5ΟΟ 9) τ,vheat polenta or fine bu|gur, cooked, cooled, and cubed Ι2 eggs, hard-boiled, cooled, and diced (Ι used 12larger here than ßη ancient Greece) 1/Ζ cup ('Ι25 ml) dressing (οßΙ, vinegar, and garlic) r,/z

1

Garnish: 12 oysters

out of the shell

º2 clams out of the shell

]

Fo]lorη,.

Apicius's instτuctions above, having α butcher de-bone

yourselfifyou are braye. Preheaτ τhε oven το 4òοΟ F (Ζ3ο'C). Lightly mix τhε sιuffing ingredienτs, τhε pig lor γου, or doing it

adding τhε eggs and dressing last. Sτuff τhe pig and

serηr

ßτ closed.

Rub olive οß1 and salt into the skin. Cook fοτ Ζο minutes ßη the hot oven to seal ßη the juices and to brolπn it. Then turn oven το 325Ο F (ι6οΟ C) for about αη hour and α hali or υητß1 iuice comes ουτ clear rηrhen pig is pricked with α fork ßη the thickest ραττ of τhε τhigh.

{lr {ι Ι:'

.

' | Ι-" τΙ

,'

Recipe Ζ3

ROSE A,ND BRAΙN PUDDΙNG

call τhis rose dish rodonia and Ι prepare ßt ßη such α manner οη that rvhen γου eat it, γου ηοt οηlγ have α designated cro\Λ/n your head, but are also perfumed within, treating your body to α truly complete meai. Crush the most aromatic roses ßη the and then carefully place chicken and pig brains, de,

"...Ι

morτal,

nerved and rveii-dressed, rnlith egg γοΙκ, then season r,ηlith olive ßt ßη α οßΙ, garum, pepper, and rηrine, Μßχ together rnrell and ρυt the cook ηε\η/ pot to cook over α Ιοτητ, constant flame, When everyone present rηrill smell the delicious aroma opens the

ροt,

of roses." We incιude this recipe for completeness rather than practicalit1, because τhe ingredients are almost impossible to obtain ßη this day and age. Perhaps someone, maybe α larmer ßη the Greek countryside, can make this dish. Make sure γου use homegrorι,n roses aS the commercially raised ones are heavily sprayed, 9) pork brains 8 οΖ. (2οο 9) chicken brains 2 tablespoons vinegar α few slices of οηßοη and carrot 2 tablespoons marsaIa ινßηε

ºΟ οΖ. (3ΟΟ

pepper 3ο aromatic roses, petals plucked and crushed 2 teaspoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc-nam) 2 tablespoons olive οßΙ 5 eggs, beaten pepper to taste

Immerse the brains ßη cold rvater for αη hour, then drain, The:l place them ßη cold salted r,nrater mixed rvith vinegar and α fe,ι slices of οηßοη and carrot. Bring the \Λ/ater to α boil, and τhει lovrer the flame and let the mixture boil for about ιrvenτy minrvaιe: utes. As soon as the brains are cooked, put them into cold

again and r,vhen they are completely cooled dorη,n, skin and denerve them. Set them aside ιο dry covering them rvith peppe: that has been soaked ßη Marsaιa τητßηe. Μßχ the brains ιvith thι

66

eggs, τhε rose petals, the fish sauce, and α little οßß, If γου do not have α brazier, rηrhich could give uniform heating to the dish, fοΙßοι,ητ

the Greek formula and brorηrn the mixture fiτst, and then

compactly ßηtο αη oiied mold. Cook it ßη α doub]eboiler for αη hour, or until the mixture is hardened. Το test if it is done, stick α toothpick ßηtο the flan; it should come out clean. Unmold ßτ onto α plate, sprinkle rvith pepper, and serve.

press

ß ι

it

Recipe Ζ4

BOΙLED PΙG,S FΕΕΤ From various texts \Λ/ε are given to understand that pig's feet r-ηrere served. Antiphanes ßη his Thel4/oman of Corinth, rηrrites: "And then α litτle pig's foot to Aphrodite" (Athenaeus, 3.95e-f ). Τhατ ιhey vrere served boiied is explained by Pherecrates ßη The Miners: "trotters lηrell-boiled" (ibid., 3.96α);the same author mentioned

ιhem again ßη his

The Slave-¸acher

(ibid., 3.96b).

6 pig's feet (ask the butcher to iemove the bristles and cut them ßη quarters) quarts (3 liters) \Vater 3 º large

οηßοη

2 carrots

3 stalks of celery 2 tablespoons salt 1/Ζ

cup (125 ml) white vinegar

vinegar and pepper to taste when serving

cup (Ζοο ml) \^/ater ßη large ραη yrith Ζ tablespoons of salt and % cup (ιΖ5 ml) i.ιrhite rnrine vinegar. Bring το α boil, adding the diced vegetables, \Λ/hen the $/ater returns to α boil, add the pig's feet, r,ηrell cleaned. Cook until they are τητε11 done and falting ofΓthe bone, about ι5 minutes for small pig's feet or 3ο minutes for large ones. When they are cool enough to touch, ρυ11 the meat off the bones and heap it οηtο α plate. Sprinkle with pepPut

ιι

3Ζ

per and vinegar to taste. Serve hot rηrith lots of fresh bread. Noτe:The lefτover broth is good for making ΙεητßΙ soup: iusτ add lenti]s and cook. The spices and meat flavor make for αη interest-

ing and delicious soup.

Recipe Ζ5

ι

slÞοΚΕD ΡιG,S FΕΕτ Pig's feet can also be served smoked, and ßη this case they are served covered ßη melted, smoked cheese. This dish was once readily available ßη Rome: one had οηΙγ to go to α store specializing ßη porchetta dei Castel]i, α pig stuffed and roasted rηrhole,

highly salτed and spiced, rηrhich vras served at festivals and food sιands α11 over ltaly. But recently it has become hardeτ to find. 6 smoked pig's feet

;2 pound 1

(3ΟΟ g) grated smoked cheese

tablespoon olive οßΙ

Put the pig's feet ßη αη oiled ραη and cover it vrith cheese. Cook Γor about αΙΙοτητ

ιο minutes ßη

α

hot oven (about

+25Ο

F or ΖΖòΟ C) to

the cheese to melt.

τοΝGυΕ

Aτistophanes mentions tongue ßη α list of alteτnatives to anchovies (Athenaeus 3.96c). Βυt there is ηο information as to holv they \Λ/ere prepared. Probably they were boiled and then flavored

r,ηrith

some garum (fish sauce).

ORGAN ΜΕΑΤS _\lso mentioned by Aristophanes (Athenaeus,

ibid.) is

α

laundry

of internal organs: liver, inrild boar kidneys, τibs, tongue, spleen, and piglet tripe, α11 slaughtered ßη autumn, vrhich he

Ιßsτ

recommends be served vrith hot rolls. Dioxippus ßη Α

Foe to Pimps

menτions "srnreetbreads, paunch, and entrails" (ibid., Iooe), ιyhile Eubulus, ßη τhe Deucalion, lists chicken livers, guτs, lungs, and tripe.

So\M,S BELLY This dish is mentioned by Alexis ßη The Μαη from Pontus, making fun of τhe oraτor Callimedon, who r,vas nicknamed "τhe Lobsτer" (or Crayfish) because of his greediness: "Every man is vrilling το die for his countrμ but Cal]imedon the Crayfish rηrould doubtless

submit to death for

α

boiled sow's paunch" (Athenaeus

3.

ιooc).

Boiled sor.v's belly lvas served iηrith α sauce based οη vinegar and silphium. Keep ßη mind that silphium (ηο longer found) had α flavor like garlic. So ßη ουτ time, obtaining α sorv's belly and ιvishing tο eat it-t\Λ/o things that seem improbable to me-it rηrould do to mix vinegar, mixed rvith crushed garlic and perhaps α bßτ of οßΙ, sαΙτ, and pepper (ibid., 3,ιοοÞ. Iη Μαη of Science, Sopater rvriies: "α slice of sorηr's matrix ηοt over cooked, r,ηrith pungenτ brine-and-vine8ar Sauce inside" (ibid., 3. Iοια).

VULVA ΕΙΕòΤΙΤΙΑ This

rηras

the νυΙνα of α sorηr that had miscarried. Τt rηras consid-

ered especially tasty and it

rηras

mentioned by Hipparchus, ιhe

author of the Egyptian liiad (Athenaeus

3 . I ο ι α)

.

The enτraiis of lamb, goats, pigs, and oτher domesτicaτed animals rηrere αΙΙ eaten ßη antiquity, and many are sti]l seryed today. Hor.ιrever, although they rvere considered delicious de]i, cacies ßη former times, sornr's νυΙνα and breasts are not eaien today. For these foods, we have Apicius's recipes and rηre knorιthat normally νυlνα \Λ/αs eaten boiled and accompanied by α sauce similar to the one listed ßη Recipe Ζ4 for boiled pig's feeι. lιrhereas solηr's breasts, once boiled, vrere sprinkled r,vith salt, ρυι οη α skeιver, and roasted or grilled or stuffed lηrith "αΙΙ of god's best." Even if

rηre rηranted

to try these dishes today rvhich Ι dουbι.

it i,vould be impossible given the mechanized meat-processing systems: after the animal is completely emptied and the parts αι€ butchered, it yrou]d not be possible to locate the νυΙνα or breasts

of α sornr.

Seafood ,\ccording to Daphnus of Ephesus, Archestratus took α trip "ατουηd the world" to gratiφ his palate as rηrell as his more basic appetites. (We must bear ßη mind that his "rηrorld" r,ηras limited

of

:ο Greece, Magna Graecia, the Bosporus, and part of the coast

Asia Minor.) υροη his return, he counsels α friend as to rηrhere :ο eat and rvhat to order: Eat, dear Moschus, α slice of Sicilian tunny, cut at the time rηrhen

it should be salted ßη iars. But ιhe shabar,

α τelish

from Pontus,

]

rvould consign to the lorηrest regions, as rηrell as αlΙ ιητhο pτaise it. For ferηr there be among mortals rryho knour that it is α poor and

insipid morsel. Take, horvever, ,vater, before

α

mackerel ιhree days out οf the

it enters the pickle and rηrhile it is still nerv ßη ihe

iar and οηlγ half-cuιed. And if thou go to the sacred city of glorious Byzantium, eat again, Ι ρταγ γου, α slice of horaion; foI it is good and luscious, (Athenaeus 3.

Iι6f- ιι7α)

Then he goes οη to list αΙΙ the Κηοτητη mollusks, explaining rvhere :ο find the best ones: Aenus produces large mussels, Abydus oystels, Parium crabs;

Mitylene scallops. Ambracia, too, supplies very many, and along rηlith them monstlous. shalτ gετ giant lιrhelk,

. . .

and ßη Messene's ηαττο\Λ/ frith ιhου

ßη Ephesus also the smooth cockles, not tο

be despised. Calchedon gives oysteτs but as for perir-vinkles

("heralds") may Zeus confound them, rηrhether they come from the sea or the assembly, excepting one man οηΙγ. That man is my comrade, his home is οη Lesbos of the luscious glapes, and his name is Agathon (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus

3.

9zd-e.)

Recipe Ζ6

LoBSτER "Βυγ yourself α lobster, the kind yrhich has long clarvs, and heavy urithal, vrith feet that are small, and but slowly crarπls he υροη τhε land. Μοsτ of them, and the best of αΙΙ ßη qυαΙßτγ, are ßη τhε Lipari Islands; yet the Hellespont also gaτhers many" (Archesτraτus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 3.

ι

o4f- ι οòα).

4 live lobsters, about Ι pound (4ΟΟ 9) each 3 tablespoons olive οßΙ 'Ι

tablespoon vinegar

α Iarge pinch of oregano 3 tablespoons salt

pepper to taste

Make α marinade from the οßΙ, vinegar, olegano, and salt and pepper, and put ßt aside. Slice the live lobsters ßη half and put τhεm το cook οη α grill. As they cook baste them òοητßηυαΙΙγ rnriτh the marinade. Check often to see if they are cooked (ßι about 5-7 minutes they should turn red ßη the shell);too much cooking makes them tough and inedible.

Recipe Ζ7

FRIED SI{RΙMP

"...If γου

ever manage to get to lasus, α city of the Carians, γου rnrill get α good-sized shrimp. But it is rare ßη the market, rπrhereas ßη Macedonia and Ambracia theτe aτe plenty" (Athenaeus 3. Io5e). 2 lbs. (t Κ9) shrimp

lots of οΙßνε οßΙ for frying salt to taste

ιΖ5 ml) of οßΙ ßη α frying ραη and when ßt is very hot but not smoking, toss ßη the shrimp. Fry them for 6-7 minutes, stilring frequently and gently. Put about

1/Ζ

cup

(

Recipe Ζ8

ΑΜιΑ (BLUEFIN τυΝΑ) As for the amia, prepare that ßη ιhe autumn, rηrhat time the Pleiad

is settlng, and ßη αηγ way thou likest. Why need Ι recite it for τhee rvord for rnlord? For thou canst

ηοι possibly spoil it even

if

τhou so desire. Still, if thou insist, dear Moschus, οη being insirucτed here also is the best r,vay to dress τhat fish, rvrap ßτ ßη fig-ieaves urith α very iittle marjoram, Νο cheese, ηο nonsenseI Just place it tenderly ßη figJeaves and tie them οη top with

α

sfting; then push ßι under hot ashes, bethinking thee wisely of ihe ιßmε yrhen ßt is done, and burn it υρ not. Let it come to ihee {τοm lovely ΒγΖαηtßυm

ifthou desire the

best, yet ινßΙτ get rvhat

is good even if it be caught somerηrhere neal this place here. Βυτ ßτ is

poolel the farther thou goest from the Hellespontine

Sea, and

ßf thou jouιney ovel the glorious coulses of the briny

Aegean main, it is ηο longer the same, but utterly belies my earlier praise (Archestratus quoιed ßη Athenaeus

7 .Ζ,7

8α- c).

ΤυΝΑ COOKED ΙΝ ASHES 2 pounds (º Κ9) tuna, cut into pieces

enough grape leaves to hold the tuna (about 4Ο) 4 teaspoons fine salt 2 pinches of marjoram

Make α Þrood fire and let it buτn dor,ηrn to embers. Μßχ the chunks of fish lvith the salt and mar]oram, then ro1l them υρ ßη the leaves, like burrltos, so that the mixture is secure inside. Using αΙΙ due caution, place the rolls οη top of the ashes, letτßηg τhem cook about 5 minutes tο α side, being careful not to

burn them.

«GoNoS" Ligurian red and Sicilian neriιlborn transparent gobies Sardine sprats or young sardines Sea anemones from Sardinia small fry as abomination, except the Athenian; Ι mean gonos, urhich the lonians call "Γοαm" |sεpiolite, still found today

Count

αΙΙ

ßη Sicily, where many old Magna Graecian habits are preserved, palticularly the terms for sea life; the little f,sh called nunnata (newborn) are calied grommo, r,vhich means mucousy] and accept it οηΙγ rvhen it is caught fresh ßη the sacred arm of Phalerum's beautiful bay.That rvhich is found ßη ocean-rηrashed Rhodes is good, if ßτ be native. And if γου desire to ιasτe it, γου should ατ nettles-sea anemones

τhe same τßmε get at the malket some crornτred αΓτετ

lvith leafy tenιacles. Mixing them with it, bake it ßη

α

γου have made α sauce οΓ the fτagrant tops of choice

ραη, greens mixed ßη οß1, (ArchestΙatus, quoted ßη Aιhenaeus 7.

z85b-c)

Ενßdεητßγ τhε besτ \Λ/αγ το tasτe these tiny ΙßττΙε fish (gonos) vras to cook them ßη αη herb sauce. Archestratus also recommended sea anemones. Given thaτ τoday these animals are ηοß sold ßη fish markets, one vrould have

tο find them oneself at the seashoIe. But remembel to \Λ/eατ gloves and be careful tο keep them far from the eyes. Once harvested and r.ηrashed carefully under running iΛrater, insert α finger ßηtο the opening \Λ/here the anemone \Λ/αs attached to the rock to remove αηγ bits of stone that might remain ßη its bodi,

ßη running \Λ/αtει marinate αη hουτ sand and let them of αηγ traces rid them of to ßη vinegar. Α disciple of Archestratus added that, given the small amount of heat needed to òοοκ these little fish and cavity. After that, clean the anemones again

anemones, it was enough iust to toss ihem into α ραη that had begun tο sizzle.

74

Recipe Ζ9

ΒΙτs AND PIEcEs: SMALL FISH FRY 2 lbs. (] kg) fish eggs, baby sardines, and smelt (ßη lieu of transparent gobies, sardine eggs, and anemones) salt to taste οßΙ for frying

α pinch of thyme α pinch of rosemary

α pinch of oregano r,/z

οηßοη, minced

Chop τhε fish ßητο small bites after cleaning thoroughly and rinsing ßη salt \Λ/ater. Heat the οß1, add the spices and οηßοη, and the onions are brovrned, add the fish, Αt the fiτst sign of sizzling, take them out, and serve them immediately,

τητhεη

Recipe 3ο

ΤΗΟRΝΒΑòΚ RAY "Eat α boiled ray ßη the season of mid-rvinter, r,ι.ith cheese and silphium οη ßτ. And so, r.ηrhatever offspring of the ocean have α flesh that is not too fat should be dressed ßη this way" (Athenaeus 7.286d). And aiso, "Scylla's stralt ßη r.vooded ΙταΙ1, contains the glorious iatus, α rηronderful food" (Athenaeus 7.3ιIf). .

3 lbs, (2 Κ9) thornback ray or skate 1 gaIlon (5 liters) of \^/ater 1

cup (25Ο ml) vinegar

3 tablespoons coarse Salt Ι οηßοη 2 carrots 2 stalks of celery

2 bay leaves

stalk of parsley tablespoon pepper grated pecorino cheese 2 garlic cloves, minced 1

º

One eats οηΙγ the vrings and liver of the ray, It is good boiled. but οηlγ lvhen very fresh.

Ρυt the \vater, vinegar, salt, and αΙΙ the spices, except th€ pepper, rηrhich is added ßη the last ten minutes, ßηtο α ραη large enough to hold the ray. Put ßη the ray and cook over α lorηr flame.

siovrly bringing the ραη to α boil and then lorvering τhε flame α bit more, controlling the cooking. After ιο minuτes, add ιhe

pepper.The ray should be done ι5-Ζο minutes after the saucτ boiis: the meat τνßΙ1 be coming arvay from the cartilage. Put it οι α plate, and remoye the skin (if necessary). Μßχ the cheese τ-η,ßý the minced garlic and sprinkie over the ray. Let the dish sit for α fe\η/

minutes, so the flavors have α chance to blend.

ß

Recipe

3

ι

SΤΕ\ΜΕD CONGER EEL "Ιη Sicyon, dear frieιrd,

γου have the lread of α coιιger eel, Ιαt, vigorous, and large; also αΙΙ the belly parts... ," and later, "γου can catch α nice conger-eel, lηrhich is as muclι superior to αΙΙ other fishes as the fattest tunny |tuna] is superior to the poorest cro\Δ/-fish" (Aτlrenaeus "Τ

pralse

α11

ßιι

7

.Ζγf -

ι,9

φ).

eels, to be sure; bιιt much tlιe best is the eel caught

thατ part of the sea rηrlrich is opposite the straiτs of Rhegium. There, γου citizen of Messina, have the advarιtage over α11 other mortals, for γοιι can put such food as that ßο γουι iips. And

γετ

the Copaic and Strymonian eels bear α very mighty repute for excellence; for they are large and r,ι.onderfully Γat. Iη general, it is my belief τhατ τhe eel is king of αlΙ yiands ατ τlτε feasτ and guides τhe rvay το pleasure, though ßτ is tlre οηΙγ fish το which nature lιas given ηο scrotum" (Athenaeus 7.z98e-f ). Here Athenaeus is er.ldently talking about adult eels οη τheir αηηυαΙ ιnigration to their sparvniιrg grounds ßη the Sargasso Sea; the rest οf tlιe time, adult eels live ßη rivers, lakes, and ponds. 3 lbs. (2 Κ9) of eel, heads and beIly 9αΙΙοη (5 liters) of rvater

º

] cup (25Ο ml) vinegar

3-4 tablespoons sea salt 1

οηßοη

] carrot 2 stalks of celery

2 bay leaves 1

staIk of parsley

3Ο peppercorns

Sauce: 6 tablespoons οΙßνε οßΙ 2 tablespoons vinegar 2 cloves garlic, minced ] stalk of minced parsley α large pinch of oregano

One οηΙγ eats the head and belly of the eel, since the rest is noth-

ing but spines. Slice and chop the vegetables, and add them to τhe vrater. Add sαΙτ, peppercorns, and vinegar, and, lastly, the cut-up eel. Bring to boil and cook for about ιò minutes. Serve ßη bowls with \Λ/ατm crusty bread, and add the basting sauce for taste.

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Recipe 3Ζ

BAKED BLUEFIN ΤυΝΑ "And have α tail-cut from the she-tunny-the large she-tunnχ Ι repeat, lηrhose motheτ-city is Byzantium. Slice it and roast it αΙΙ

rightly sprinkling just α little salt, and buttering it \Λ/ßτh οßΙ, Εατ ihe slices hot, dipping them ßηtο α sauce piquante; they are nice eyen if γου \Λ/αηt to eat them ρΙαßη, like the deathless gods ßη form and stature" (Archestratus, quoted inAthenaeus 7.3o3e*f).

The ancient Greeks used vinegar as r,,ιre rηrould ηο\Λ/ use lemon juice. When lemons rηrere first imported, Greeks and Romans considered them useful οηΙγ to protect rnrool from moths, as α plevenτative against snakebites, and as the best antidote to αηγ kind of poison. Unfortunately, it never dar.ηrned οη them τhat the lemon could have alimentary value. 21/Ζ

lbs, (1.5 kilos) of tuna

3 tablespoons fine salt 3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

vinegar to sprinkle over the top just before eating (also superb is α mixture of vinegar, οßΙ, and garlic)

For this recipe there is little to add to rηrhat Archestratus stated above. Ρουτ the olive οßΙ and salt over the fish and cook at about 375Ο F (ΖοοΟ C) for 3ο-4ο minuτes, depending οη ßτs τhickness. It is done when the skin is crisp and the tuna comes arvay from the bone, juicy but not bloody. It can also be cooked directly οη the grill, οη fοßl, for about

5-7

minutes per side.

Recipe 33

ΚιτΑRοS (BRιLL, τυRΒοτ, oR SoLE) "As for the citharus [brill], if it be rηrhiτe and hard and large, Ι bid γου ρυt it ßη leaves ßη clean salt r,ηrater and boil it" (Arclre straιus, quoτed ßη Athenaeus 7.3o6b). If γου have α laτge and r.ηrhite brill, boil it ßη this manner:

4 lbs. (2 kg) of brill, turbot, sole, or flounder 2 gallons (5 liters) of \^/ater Ι cup (25Ο ml) vinegar 2 tablespoons coarse salt º

οηßοη

2 carrots 2 celery stalks 2 bay leaves

stalk of parsley tablespoon pepper grape leaves

º

Ι,/Ζ

Put the cut υρ fish into grape leaves and tie them securely vrith

kitchen string, Next chop the vegetables and put them ßη α iarge cooking pot rvith the cold \η/αtετ, the spices, and the vinegar. Place the rvrapped fish ßη the mixture and sloivly bring the rvater οηΙγ to α simmer; \Λ/atch it carefully to see that the rvater does not boil violently. A|ter ι5 minutes, check to see if the fish is cooked, as it will depend οη hοτητ thick the fish pieces are. When done, take the fish meat out of the leaves, discarding the leaves. Pour the sauce oyer the fish and serve, sprinkling wßτh vinegar,

ßf more flavor is desired. For α less labor-intensive verslon, place the fish directly ßη the stelηr pot, ιvithout the leaf wrapping.

Recipe 34

BAKED ΤυRΒΟΤ FOR SIX "But if it be red ßη appearance, and not too large, bake it γου have sτabbed its body ened. Then smear

it

αfτετ

ιητßth α sτraight knife, freshly sharp-

rηrith αbιιηdαηòe

of cheese and οßl. For it

likes tο see people who spend moneμ and it is prodigal" (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7.3o6b). 2 small turbot, about 21/Ζ lbs. (1.4 kg) altogether

4 teaspoons Salt 6 οΖ. (3ΟΟ 9) grated parmesan or sardo cheese plenty of olive οßΙ

Gut and clean the fish as necessaly. Prelreat the oven to 35οΟ F (ι8ο'C). ]υsτ before you're ready to bake, salt the fish. Using α sharp knife, make α series of cuts οη both sides of the spine and fill them τη.ßtΙι grated cheese and οß1. Slatlrer the fistr rηrith οß1

and bake it ßη α well-greased ραη for 3ο minutes. Also delicious grilled οη thc barbeιue.

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Recipe 35

SΜΟΟΤΗ DOGFΙSH for αΙΙ types of dogfish, such as marlin or blue shark, or mahi-mahi ßη the United States.

This recipe

\Λ/οτΚs

Ιη this city of Τοτοηθ γου should buy the belly-slices of the dog-shark, cuι from ιhε hollolv palts be]o\Λι. Then spτinkle them ντßτh caτarvay,seed and α little salt, and bake. Ρυτ nothing else,

my friend, υροη it, unless it be yellola οßl. But afteT it is baked, γου may τhen fetch α sauce and ιητßth ßτ. Βυt rηrhatsoever

casserole,

mix ηο

lηrater

αΙ1

ιhose condiments r,vhich go

γου stew r.ηlithin the ribs οf the holiovr from α sacred spring, nor wine-vinegar,

bυι simply ρουι ovel it οß1 and dry caraway and some fτagrant leaves

αΙ1

togetheι. Cook it over the hot embers rvithout letting

the flame τουòh it and stir it diligently lest γου unwiττingly scorch ßτ. Ναμ not many mortals knorv of τhßs heavenly viand οτ consent tO eat

it-a]l

those mortals, τhat is, τητhο poSSeSS the

ρυηγ soul οf the booby-bird, and are smitten rvith palsy because. as they say, the creature is α man-eater. But eveτy fish loyes human flesh if it can but get it" (Archestratus, quoιed ßη Aιhenaeus 7.3ιoc-e).

2-3 lb. ('Ι,5 Κ9) slice of smooth dogfish or mahi-mahi 3 teaspoons Salt 6 tablespoons olive οßΙ plenty of carararay seeds

This fish is cooked οη the griil. Bathe the piece or pieces abuidantly rvith οß1 and sprinkle them rηrith salt and cara\Λ/ay seeds, then place it οη the grill. Iη some dishonest restaurants dogfish is cooked this rvay and passed off as syrordfish, alτhougt the particular taste of dogfish cannot be concealed from the cognoSCenti.

Υου can serve it rvith α sauce rather than the cararvay seeds: one of the best is Sicilian pickling, from the nalive environs ο: Aτchesτratus himself, This dressing is made by mixing οß1, vinegar, oregano, α felηr cloves of gaτiic, and α bit of r.vater. Regard-

ing Archestratus's comment about such fish eating men, don'i

be impressed: although the dogfish is ßη the shark family it is

α

completely innocuous fish and vrould never dream of bitlng anyone. Athenaeus adds that this fish is the same one the Romans

called tursio.

Recipe 36

MoRAY EEL "Beτrηreen fSicily?] and sτταßτ,

ltaly under τhε

rηraves

of the narrow

liyes τhε lamprey fmoray eel] called the floater. Ιf ßτ ever be

caughτ, buy it, for it is α wonderful food" (Athenaeus 7.3I2f). 3 lbs, (].5 kg) moray eel or yellow eel Sauce: º

handful of lovage

lots of oregano α large pinch of mint 'l

οηßοη 1 glass of dry white ιvine enough \Λrater to cover thθ eel 2 teaspoons honey 27Ζ teaspoons salt

Crush togetheτ the sauce ingredients ßη α mortar. Clean the eel τrell and place ßt ßη α ραη; cover it with the sauce, rπretting it as necessary inrith r,ηrine or $/ater. Cover the eel urith this mixture, then add enough ]Λ/ater tο cover the eel. Cook it οη α lornr flame υητßΙ it is urell done. There should be α bit of sauce remaining.

Recipe 37

ELECΤRIC RAY "And αη electric ray stevred ßη οßΙ, r,ηrine, fragrant herbs with α bit of grated cheese" (Archesτratus, quoted ßη Aτhenaeus 7.3|+Ü). It

ßη

be difficult to taste this dish as one nevel sees electric eel the market. Horηrever, should γου manage to find it, here is

ιητß11

the recipe:

4 lbs. (2 kg) of electric ray 4 teaspoons salt α small glass of dry white ινßηε α handful of οηßοη, celery, parsley, and carrots

to flavor the broth g) grated cheese

31/Ζ οΖ. (1ΟΟ

Cook slor.ιrly ßη α terracotta pot rvith salt, r,ηrine, οß1, and herbs. adding the grated cheese at the last minute. Archestratus prob ably r.vould have used pecorino cheese, not having parmesan available, but ßt is best rηrith parmesan.You choose. Cover the raν

lvith the cheese and ραη and serve.

r,vhen it has baτely meited, take it out of the

Recipe 38

S\Λ/ORDFISH

"But rnrhen thou comest to Byzantium, get α slice of sr.ηrord-fish, the joinτ òυτ right lrom the tail. This fish is also good ßη τhe sτraighτ hard by the edge of Peiorum's ßυττßηg forehead" (Athenaeus 7.3I+e). 21/Ζ

lbs. (2 Κ9) swordfish

3 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons olive οßΙ vinegar to taste

This is quite similar to Recipe 3Ζ by Archestratus. Get slices of swordfish about αη inch thick, and roast them οη the grill, adding α bßτ of salτ and οßΙ per slice. Grill about 2 mßηυτεs per side; do not over- or undercook. Serve as is, ιητßth α spritz of vinegar (or lemon), or rηrith the fο]Ιοß.ητßηg dressing: olive οß1, vinegar, salt, oregano, α clove of garlic, mixed ιητßth α bit of \Δ/ater;

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shake it ßητεΙΙ, or stir with α branch of oregano.

Recipe 39

SCORPION FΙSH "Βυτ inThasos buy the sculpin fscorpion fish], if ßτ be ηοτ ger than thine arm's length (Athenaeus 7.gzo.f 1,

big-

1

ι j

This recipe is from

Apicius:

21/zlbs, (].5 kg) scorpion

3 teaspoons salt pIenty of olive οßΙ

ß Ι

] packet (º οΖ, or 3Ο g)

cumin ιΛ/ater to cover the fish Ι/Ζ

ß

fish

Ι

saffron

Ι

teaspoon

Ι

Ι

Archestιatus suggests buying

α

scorpion fish ηο longer τhαη

γουτ

Ι

arm (αbουτ Ζο inches or 55 cm). Clean it τητεΙΙ and place ßτ ßη α Ι ραη urith αΙΙ τhε rest of τhe ingredienτs, rnrell ground and dis- Ι solved ßη the οßΙ and α little rηrater. Cover the flsh ιητßth waιer. ald Ι cook about ι5 minutes after the \Λ/atel has come tο α boil, or Ι until τhε flesh comes ar,ιray from the bone. Take τhe fish ουτ and Ι òοητßηυε το cook the liquid until it τhickens, adding α bßτ of Ι

Recipe 4ο

PARROT FΙSH "At Calchedon by the sea bake the mighty parrot-fish, after rvashing it urell, But ßη Byzantium, too, thou urilt find ßτ good, and as το ßτs size, ßτ bears α back equal to τhε ciτcling shield. Dress the rvhole as Ι shall describe. After it has been thoroughly coveτed vrith cheese and οßΙ, take it and hang it ßη α hot oven and bake ßτ το α τυτη. Sprinkle it uiith salt mixed rπith carar,vay-seed, and υτιτh τhe yellol,v οßΙ, pouring its divine fουηταßη from τhγ hand (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7.3zοα). Ι parrot fish, about 4 lbs, (2 kg)

6 tablespoons olive οßΙ Ι/Ζ cup (3ΟΟ

g) 9rated pecorino cheese 4 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon caraway seeds

Βυγ α large whole paτIot fish. Scale, gut, and urash ßτ. Ρυτ ßτ ßη α heavy pot, preferably terracotta, and cover rnrith οßΙ, cheese, and

sαΙτ, (Ιτ is best if γου make transverse cuts οη both sides of the fish and inseτt τhε salt, cheese, and οßΙ ßη these cuts,) Put the fish ßη τhε oven at 3Ζ5Ο F (ι6οΟ C) for 3ο-45 mßηυτεs, depending

οη the thickness. Once cooked, put it οη α serving dish and

sprinkle οη α bit more salt and the carav/ay seeds, adding α good quantity of οßΙ (if γου urish).

Recipe

4ι

BREAM "Whensoe'er Orion is setting ßη the heavens, and the mother of the rnrine-bearing ciuster begins to cast arnray her tresses, then have α baked sarg fbream], oveτspread rnrith cheese, large, hot, and rent urith pungent vinegar. For its flesh is by nature tough_

And so be mindful and dress every tough fish ßη the same

uray.

Βυt the good fish, r,ηrith naturally tender, fat flesh, sprinkle rnriτh α little sαΙτ οηΙγ and baste ivith οßl. For it conτains ντßτhßη iτself alone the relηrard of joy" (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus /_ζLlL).

2 bream, each about 2 lbs. (º kg)

or º large bream, about 3 lbs. (º,5 Κ9) 1 teaspoon table salt Ι/ι cup (º5Ο 9) grated pecorino cheese plenty of olive οßΙ balsamic vinegar for the table Make three transverse cuts into each side of the fish, rubbing ßη α little salt, and putting the cheese ßη the cuts, and then pour ýe olive οßΙ over the fish. Roast it ßη the oven (35ο" F or ι8οΟ C) for 2ο-3ο minutes, or untii crispy. Serve it \Λ/ith good quality bal-

samic vinegar. Bream meaτ is quite salty. Other, more tender fish, such as the grey mullet or bass, can be cooked ßη α similar manner vrith more salt, and once ßη

α

τrhile sprinkled ντßτh οßΙ during baking-

Recipe 4Ζ

CUΤΤLEFΙSH "Cuττle-flshes

ßη Abdera, and

ßη mid-Maroneia as lvell"

(Athenaeus 7.324b). The οηlγ recipe found for making cuττlefish ßη black ßηΚ comes

from Apicius (ò.Ε.ò). Using rvhat he says as ινε11 as indicaτions from other Greek authors, one can leconstruct this delicacy: "Take tiny cuttlefish, as they are, rηrith αΙΙ the blackness and cook ßτ αlΙ τogeτher. [Ρυt it ßη α ραη] and add οßΙ, dressing, ιη,ßηε, and α 1eek, and green coriander. Cook it thus." The recipe continues τητßth the sauce suggested by

Apicius, that is, the ßηΚ, cooked

together τητßth the ingredients listed above by the other authors (milk, cheese, honey garlic, and s\Λ/eet herbs).

Recipe 43

CUΤΤLEFISH ERASΙSTRAΤUS SΤYLE Other authors speak about α cuttlefish sauce probably made from ßτs black ßηΚ, τητhατ they call "blood": Erasisτraτus r,ιrriτes ßη his Αττ of CοοΚετμ "It is made lvith cooked meat, ste\Λ/ed ßη rvell-beaten

blood, honeμ cheese, salt, caralvaχ silphium (garlic), and vinegar." Glaucus of Rhodes π.riies ßη his Culinary Arts: "ure are dealing here rηrith the blood sterved vrith garlic and cooked rηrine, honeμ vinegar, milk, cheese, and srηreet minced herbs." 2 lbs. (º Κ9) cuttlefish Ι/Ζ cu9 (125 mI)

olive οßΙ

2 cloves garlic, sliced Ι teaspoon Salt α pinch of carararay seeds 2 teaspoons honey

lιlhite ιπßηε vinegar or lemon juice Ι/Ζ cup (]25 ml) vghite vιuine

Ι οΖ. (5Ο 9) diced feta cheese

Clean the cuttlefish, setting aside the ßηΚ sacs and being òατεfι]] ηοt to ρορ them. Heat the οßΙ ßη α lrying ραη and sαυtÝ garlic

υητßΙ it is golden. Remove the garlic, put ßη the cυτ-υρ cuttlefish. and Ιετ ßτ fry α biτ \η/ßßh the salt, caraway and honey, then add τhε

ßηΚ. When it is crisp, add α good sprinkling of vinegar and τhe τητßηε, follorηred by the cheese. Continue cooking until the cheesε has made α soft sauce.

Recipe 44

RED MULLEΤ The Greeks held certain bizarre beliefs regarding mυ]]ετ, α frsh they believed rηras sacred to Aτtemis the Virgin. If α man \^/ere to drink wine ßη r.ηrhich mullet had been dipped, his sexual desire r,vas roused, \Δ/hereas r.ηrhen α \Λ/οmαη dτank the same rηrine, it iηrould make her calm. This potion, better than today's birth control ρßΙΙ, would impede pregnancy (Athenaeus 7.32òd). Cooked mulleι did not have the same ρο\Λ/ειs, but it vras reserved

for gala afτernoon dinners. After praising the muiiet from τhε city ofTeichious ßη the Milesian region, Aτchestratus continued, "Also ßη Thasos buy α red mullet, and γου wili get one that is not bad. Ιη Teos it is inferior, yet even it is good, Ιη Erythrae, too, ßτ is good, rvhen caught by the shore" (Athenaeus 7.gΖòε). \Λ/ßthουt α doubt, this fish, more than others, orηres ßτs qualiτy to rηrhere ßτ comes from. Ιη certain ]ocations τhis fish is full of disgusting acid.

α

"Clean it and place it ßη α ραη urith α mixture of pepper, lovage, oregano, mint, οηßοη and α solution of one part ιvine, one of garum or οßΙ and vinegar, and α third part of honey and 'defritum.'This sauce shoujd cover the fish and rηrhen ßt is done should be greatly reduced" (Apicius

lxc. I6).

3 lbs, (].5 Κ9) red mullet

pinch of pepper branch of myrtle or α mixture of parsley and celery Ieaves finely chopped

1

Ι small celery stalk, minced ] sprig of parsley

2 pinches of oregano

pinch of mint Ι οηßοη

3 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc nam)

or α chopped sardine 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon brandy 6 tablespoons wine vr'ater

Tλke α vrell-cleaned mullet and put it ßη α ραη to fiτ snugly. Finely

dice τhe οηßοη ivith

αΙ1 the herbs and the sardine, if used. Μßχ the honey rnriτh τhε herbs and brandy and then dissolve ßτ αΙΙ ßη iπrine and α little \Λ/ater; add the fish sauce, ßf used. Pour the sauce

over the fish, and put the ραη οη the fiτe. Let it cook at Ιο\Λ/ heat υηtßΙ it is done, about Ζ5 minutes. The bones should be easily

removed, and the sauce should have been reduced to become medium-thick. Once α11 the bones are out of the fish, ρυt it ßη α bornrl, ρουτ the sauce over it, and serve.

*^J

Recipe 45

ALBACORE ΤυΝΑ HEAD "Βυγ the head of

α

large tuna from the deep sea during the sum-

mer vrhen Phaeton guides his chariot fτom the sun ßη the maximum orbit and serve it boiling hot urith α sauce. Also buy α bit

of the belly το cook οη the spit.

, . ."

"Αυlορßα" is none other than the albacore οτ longfin tυηα.

Its

meat is the urhitest of the tunas and is generally the most deliòατε flavored. It is certainly the most digestible. Archestraτus counsels boiling the head, obviously ßη rπater, salt, rnrine, spices, and vinegar, and then eating it boiling hοτ. Iη theWesτ, τhε head is seldom eaten, ιηrhereas ßη the East, for example, ßη China and Japan, τhe head is considered the best part of the fish and is offered το the guesτ of honor, One may also grill skerπers of tuna steak, marinated lightly ßη olive οßΙ, vinegar, garlic, parsley, and oregano, rnrith good result. Ι albacore tuna head 2 quarts (5 |iters) of \Λ/ater ι/Ζ cup (25Ο ml) vinegar 3 tablespoons sea sa|t ]

οηßοη

2 carrots 2 stalks of celery

2 bay leaves º

bunch of parsley

3Ο peppercorns

Recipe 46

SCABBARD FISH Ιη his book The,4rt of Cooking, Mithaecus gives α recipe fοτ cooking scabbard fish οf yrhich Epicharmus states: " The beloved ribbon fish fscabbard fish], thin but srnreet, and requiring Ιßττßε frre" (Aτhenaeus 7325f). Mithaecus pτescribes: "Clean τhe insides of α ribbon-fish afτer òυττßηg off its head, rπrash and cut ßητο slices, and pour cheese and οßΙ over them" (ibid.).

The scabbard fish is α silveτ fish, Ζ-Ζl/Ζ iπches (5-6 cm) uride and α little over α yard ( ι m) long. It is not often found ßη today's market. One good-sized flsh should feed αbουτ four perSonS. 1

or 2 scabbard fish, depending οη size cup (ΙΟΟ g) freshly grated pecorino cheese

1/Ζ

olive οßΙ to cover bottom of ραη and more for covering the fish salt to taste vinegar sprinkled οη each piece (balsamic is best) Cut τhε fish ßη (Ζ-3 ßη. or

5-7

cm) portions and οßΙ τhe botτom of α roasting ραη, then arrange the fish ßη the ραη, covering it τrith cheese and then more οßl. If γου prefer, use paImesan cheese ßηsτεαd of pecorino, but ßη Puglia ßt is stili τhought besτ to make this fish rnrith pecorino. Sprinkie α bit of vinegar over the

pieces, and then put the fish ßη α 35οΟ F ( ι8ο' C) oven for about ι5 minutes.

94

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Recipe 47

SΤUFFED SaUΙD The comic r,ηrriter Alexis included the following recipe for stuffed

squid ßη one of his rηrorks, as reported by Athenaeus: "As for the squids, Ι chopped υρ τheir fin, mixed ßη α 1ßττΙε lard, sprinkled

them

r,ηlith seasoning

and stuffed them

τ.ητlth

frnely chopped

greens" (Alexi, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7,3z6e).

4 large squid or

11/Ζ

lb, (75Ο 9) small squid

] teaspoon salt 2 cups (5ΟΟ g) diced beet or chicory greens 2 cloves garlic, finely minced

] bunch fresh parsley, chopped 1/ι cup (]οο g) diced fat bacon

pepper to taste olive οßΙ

Chop the τentacles rηrith the bacon, adding the garlic, parsley, and greens, flash-fried and diced. Add α pinch of pepper and οß] and then sτuff τhε squid vrith this mixture. Selηr ßι so τhαt the fllling does not fall ουt as it cooks. Ρυt ßt ßη α clay pot or shalloιιr roasting ραη. Coaι τhe outside rvith olive οßΙ and α bit of salt and cook at 375" F ( ι9οΟ C) for haif αη hour.

Θ

Recipe 48

TRΙGGERFΙSH "If thou go tο Ambracia's happy land and chance to see τhe boaτfish [τriggerfish], buy it and abandon ßt ηοt, even though it cosτ

ßτs r,veighτ ßη gold, lest haply the dread \^/τατh of the death]ess ones shall breathe υροη thee. For that fish is the florver οf nectar. Yet το eat it or even tο catch α glimpse οf it r,ηrith τhε eyes

is ηοt ordained for αΙΙ mortals, but it is possible οηΙγ for those rvho carry ßη their hands the holloiηr plaited texture of slvamp gro\η/n rope, and are skilled

1

ßη joints''

ßη the practice of tossing pebbles

eager contention, and thror-ιring the bait

of

sheeps'

Ι Ι

l

(Aιhenaeus 7 Jοòd). Lateτ οη Athenaeus \η.Tites: "Iη Aenus and ßη Pontus buy the pig-fish, which some mortals call sand-digger. ΒοßΙ its head rηriτh

out adding αηγ seasoning; simply place beside it α pounded caper-plant, and if thou crave aught else, drop οη ßt pungenτ

vinegar; soak it

ß.ητe]1 ßη this, then make haste to eατ ßτ, even tο the point of choking thyself ivith thy zeal'' (Aτhenaeus 7.3z6f).

As α child, Ι caught this fish urith simple joy and α bit of bait, but Ι never rηrished to grab marsh bulrushes or use stones

or sheep's knees. Triggerfish are very tasty and almost α]Ι head, but the head has enough meat for α meal. large head of α triggerfish º 9αΙΙοη (5 liters) of vvater º

Ι/Ζ cup (25Ο mi)

vinegar

2 teaspoon sea salt ]

οηßοη

2 carrots 2 stalks of celery

2 bay leaves Ι bunch of parsiey 3Ο peppercorns

Place the head ßη cold "court bouillon" and bring ßτ το boil and cook rηre]].Then add the aboye spices and herbs and fresh-picked

capers. (If γου do not liye rηrhere the caper ρΙαηt grorvs, γου can

use capers pickled

ßη

vinegar.) Crush them

ßη α mortar

or

ψ

ßß ι.

ι

i.

]&

§

,ß

blender, and finish the sauce rηrith the αddßτßοη of οßΙ, vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Recipe 49

BAKED GILT-HEAD BREAM "Οmßτ ηοτ τhε fat gilt-head from Ephesus, rnrhich people τhere call ioniscus. Βυγ it, τhαt nursling of the holy Selinua. Wash ßτ rnrith care, then bake and serve it τrhole even though it measure

τεη cubiτs" (Archesττaτus, quoted ßη Aτhenaeus 7.3z8a-b). 3 IbS. (1.5 κ9) bream 3 teaspoons fine salt

plenty of olive οßΙ α generous sprinklin9 of vinegar

Even today Ephesus and its surroundings are famous for its bream, called chippura by the Turks. Ιt is cooked for α half hour ατ 325Ο F (ι6ο' C) rubbed vrith οßΙ and salt, and served. Ιη αητßqυßt)ζ it vras served with α spτinkling of vinegar; today τre could use lemon. Either ιnray is simple, and simply deiicious!

Sι,ι)

SALTED SΤURGEON

"Of Bosporus τhε

\Λrhitest that sail forth; but 1ετ ηοτhßηg be

added thereto of the tough flesh of that fish τrhich grorvs ßη the Maeotic lake [ΑΖον Sea] fish which may not be mentioned

-the

ßη verse" (Athenaeus 7.z84e).This mυsτ be due to the fact that the r,ηrord for "sturgeon" did not fitArchestratus's τhyme scheme.

do not knornr holπ this dish τras prepared. Later οη, urhen Athenaeus discusses stulgeon, there is α critique of \^/e

Archestratus and his imprecision: "Archestratus, rnrho affected

α

mode of life like that of Sardanapalus, speaking of τhε Rhodian dogfish, expresses τhε belief τhατ ßτ is τhe same as τhατ urhich is carried about at Roman banquets to the accompaniment of pipes

and rvreaths, the slaves rnrho bτing

it being

croπηred

rnrith

πτeaths; it is, he thinks, the fish called accipesius |sturgeon]. But the latter is smaller, longer of snout and moτe tτiangular than the former, and the cheapest and smallest of them is sold fοτ not less than α thousand drachmas" (Athenaeus 7.z94f-z95a).

Thus, according to this telling, Archestratus mixed υρ

Rhodian dogflsh τrith sturgeon and declared it to be τhε fish τhat the Romans carried to the table, crovrned and serenaded with flutes, by slaves ßη floral croπτιs. But it seems difficult to attribute this erlol to Archestratus, who lived ßη the fourth century s.c,, \Λrhen the Romans neyer ate fish. The manner of seryice described ßη Athenaeus's text appeaτed ßη the late second century to the early third century,η.o., and more precisely to the Severian epoch, and it rnras certainly not α ceremony ßη urhich

αη innocuous bottom feeder such as dogfish rnrould been served.

have

DoGFISH

"]η Rhodes there is the dog-fish, οι τhIesher shark. And even if γου mυsτ dir for it, if they rvon't sell it το γου, ταΚε it by force. The Syracusans call it fat dog. Once γου have got it, submit patiently thereafter to whatever doom is decreed for γου" (Athenaeus

7

.z86α).

This fish is the shark most often seen by those iπho live near τhe Mediterranean coast. It is not dangerous, given that ßt feeds οη

mollusks and small fish. It is eaten fresh, soon after ßt is caughτ. Other cookbooks relating to fish do not share Archestratus's enτhusiasm. They say τhis flsh is inferior το τhe smooth dogfish and they recommend palticularly spicy recipes ιο hide its tasteless flavor.

ANGLERFISH "Where-ever thou seest

fishing-frog fanglerfish], buy ßτ . . . and dress the belly-piece" (Athenaeus Z.286d).The text says "bellμ" bυτ Ι τhßηΚ something there is something off about this quoτe. Ιη Ιαòτ, τοdαγ, rve still enjoy the anglerfish, bυτ r.ηre eat the ταßΙ, rηrhich, being τaτher ρυlργ, is cut into large slices. Due το ßτs sαΙτßness, it tastes α lot 1ike spiny lobster. I don't believe the underα

beily is ever used ßη cooking.

SoLE "Then buy α large plaice fsole]" (Athenaeus 7.υ88α). Νο guidance here.

«ELoPS, (PoSSIBLY MASKED oR FLAG FιSH) "As for the elops, eat that chiefly ßη glorious Syracuse, since it is the best. For that fish...comes from there, its native place. \Λ/heτefore rnrhen it is caught off the islands, or the Asian land perchance, or off Crete, it comes to γου thin and tough and r,ηrave-battered" (Athenaeus 7. 3ooe).

We do not knornr exactly vrhat this fish is. Greek dictionaτies tIanslate the urord elope as "sturgeon." It is, hornrever, definitively not sturgeon, as that flsh is hard to find ßη Syracuse, nor urould it end υρ skinny and tossed back into the sea at Crete. One can οηΙγ imagine that this fish may be Αορßα vulpinus, τhε thτesher shark, vrhich often srnrims rηrith its fin οη the surface

of

and has α tail as long as the rest of its bodμ giving it the name "flag fish" ßη Venice. the

\Λ/ατετ

«LEBIA, (PoSSIBLY Α τΥΡΕ oF SEA BREAM) It is not easy to deduce \Λ/hat type of fish this rπas. It called

epatos,

rnras also

rnrhich means "liyer." Dioc]es said that it rπras α rock-

fish. According to Aristotle, it rnras α soiitary carnivore τrith sharp teeth. According το Speusippus, ßτ \Λ/αs α iype of porgy. Aristoτle's

definiτion coincides vrith Speusippus' idenτification, making it probabie that it \Λ/αs α porgy. Archestratus recommended buying it ßη De]os or Tenos.

«ιΡΡυRΙ, oR «HoRSE, (ΑτLΑΝτιò MACKEREL) One is also ηοτ one hιιndred percent sure if this refers tο α type of mackerel, which is even today called "horse mackerel": "the horsetail fτom Carystus is the best, as ßη geneτal Carystus is α region very rich ßη fish" (Aτhenaeus 7.3o4d).

GREY MULLEΤ "Βυγ α mullet ßη seagirt Aegina, and γου vrill have the company of charming men" (Athenaeus 7.3o7d).

coD (oR ΗΑΚΕ) "As for τhe cod, vrhich they call callaria, Anthedon nuττures ßτ το α goodly size, but it has, after αΙΙ, α rather ιpongy mεατ, and is ßη geneτal not pleasant, at least to me; yet othels praise it very highly; for one man likes this, another ιhat (Athenaeus 7.3ι6α). Archestratus did not give α recipe and it is easy to see rvhy; he did ηοτ like hake, and neither do Ι.

ocτoPUS "Polyps foctopus] are best ßη Thasos and ßη Caria; Corfu, too,

nourishes large ones, many ßη number" (Athenaeus 7.3I8f ).

There is ηο recipe given for octopus, but they are still served today, ηοt οηlγ ßη Greece but ßη ltaly r.ιrhere fisherman catch them near the shore and eat them rarηr after pounding them and rinsing them ßη the sea, or, as alr-ιrays, boiled freshly caught,

SALPA "As for τhε salpa, Ι shall forever iudge it to be α poor fish. Iτ is most palatable urhen the grain is being harvested. Βυγ it ßη ΜßτγΙεηε" (Athenaeus 7,3Ζιf). This fish, called

saupe

ßη France, is not

rηrorthy of α recipe.

,q_

Desserts ßη Latln these r.ηrere caiied "the second tables." Indeed they rvere usually carried ßη οη thεßτ orηrn tables (Athenaeus ºταòhemαtα:

Ia.639b),These second tables rηrere similar tο rηrhat we call today our "after-dinner" treats. Durlng the "second seating," salty food as rπell as s\Λ/eet rηras served. The difference \Δ/αs that during the "first seating" α full dinner ιηταs served, rηrhereas during the second guests munched οη οηlγ tidbits, and drank. There aτe various lists of what τηταs served for dessert. Philippides ßη his Miseτ lisτs: "flat-cakes, dessert (epidorpismaτa), eggs, sesame seeds" (Kock 3.3o7;Athenaeus 14.64od). Diphilus ßη Telesias notes "α s\Λ/eet, some myrtle-beIries, α cheese-cake, almonds" (Kock Ζ.ò67; Athenaeus I4.64od).

Recipe 5ο

AMιLoI (MAHALLEBI) These are οηΙγ mentioned by Athenaeus

(

14.644f

).

Amilos means

"starch." Cato r,ηrrites ßη the end of his recipe for amiloi \Λ/hαt to do ιητßth the starch: "When the starch is dry, put it ßη α ner.ιr ραη and cook ßτ rnrith milk." He then makes it clear that one cooked ßt until it became α cτeam dessert, although it is not clear rηrhether it vras made to be salty

οι

slΛ/eet,

probably leaving that

part υΡ tο the cook. Οη the other hand, for time immemorial, starch has been used to make creams such as mahallebi ßη Turkey or blanc mange ßη Europe. 2ι/Ζ (625 ml) cups milk 2 tablespoons cornstarch 3 tablespoons su9ar 1

teaspoon ναηßΙΙα (or

1

teaspoon rose\iater)

Dissolve the sτarch ßη α ΙßtτΙε cold milk. Meanrηrhile, ρυτ τhε τεsτ of τhε milk ßη α ραη over α Ιοτητ flame, \I/hen the milk is hοτ, dis-

solve the sugar ßη it and add the starch mixture. Continue cook-

ing, stirring constantly, untll it becomes α pudding, about Ζ5 minutes, making sule not tο scald the bottom. Stir ßη the ναηßΙΙα οι rose\Λrater. Usually it is put ßη α mold, and chilled for at least 3ο minutes before serving, although it can be Ρυt ßη α bornrl and served \Λ/arm. Ιη ancient times, Tose\Λ/ater \Λιουld have been used

ßη place of ναηßllα, and honey instead of sugar, ßη vrhich

case

use οηlγ Ζ tablespoons of sweetener, as honey is more delicate than sugar.

Recipe 5ι

ΑΜΟRΒΙΤΕS Whατ 1ßττΙε

r,ηre

knorηr about this dish (Athenaeus ι4.646f ) is τhατ

this is α Sicilian dessert. Given that the etymological root means "shepherd" or "pastoral," ßt is likely that among the ingredienτs there rηrere both fresh cheese and honey. cups (5ΟΟ g) ricotta cheese 3/ι cuq (º75 9) honey 21/η

Μßχ these two together. It is delicious as is, or it can be put ßη strudel, betrηreen cookies, οι even ßη α cone!

α

Recipe òΖ

ΑΤΤΑΝΙΤΑΙ Ατιαηßιαß is α fτied dough dessert mentioned by Hipponex is this verse: "rηrhen eating francoΙin [α game birdj and rabbits, flavor the fried teεanitas dough rηrith sesame seeds'' (PLG a.z.a7a).ºhe term for this dessert comes from the rηrord teganon, ''frying ραη.'' This confirms that \Λ/e are dealing τητßth fτied dough and that this

same dough once had sesame seeds added. There is α similar Greek recipe τοdαγ called lukumaιhes, rvhich can be

made by adding grated iemon rind to the batter and using cognac instead of rηrine. 2Ι/ι cups (5ΟΟ g) ρΙαßη yogurt or curdled milk 2Ι/Ζ cups (25ο g) flour 4 tablespoons ιvhite vvine pinch of salt li9ht οßΙ for frying 1/Ζ

cup (125 ml) honey

coId ιpater sθsame seeds οη α plate (for rolling the dough after the honey has been drizzled over it)

Whisk together the curdled miik, ßητßηε, and sαΙτ. \Λ/hen lvell mixed, add τhε flour το make α pasτe τhατ is sοfτ and elasτic. (If the rηreather is humid, more flour may be needed.) Let the dough chil] for ττττο hours ßη τhε τefrigerator. Ρυτ α iighτ οßΙ ßη α delp ραη for frying, and rηrhen it begins to smoke, drop small .ροοrrfuls of dough-3-4 at α time-into the οßΙ and

fiy them υητßΙ they srvell and are τητeΙΙ brorηrned. j'ιe them out and drain them οη papeI tolη.els. Heat the honeχ diluting rvith α little coid rηrater

το make medium τhßòΚ syrup. Slather τhε fτied dough wßτh enough honey το soak ßη, and then roll the honeyed ball ßη

sesame seeds.

Makes αbουι ιιητο dozen.

Recipe 53

BAsYNιAS Ιη τhε second volume of Semos's History of De]os (FHG α,α93), he "Οη the island of Hecate the people of Delos offer to lris τhε basyniai, as they are called.They consist ofdough from rnrheat staτes:

flουτ boiled with honey, to urhich are added so-calied coccora fpτobably pomegranate seeds], α dried fig and three uralnuτs'' (Athenaeus 4.6a5b). Most likely this treat is τhe forerunner of Neapolitan struffoli, α ,.ely sweet and elegant dessert of fried dough, held τogether υτßτh α sugal fτosting, which has ancient rooτs ßη this ρατt of Magna Graecia. Ιt is therefore possible to Ieconstruct it urith οηΙγ mßηοτ changes. Theτe rnrere ηο olanges ßη classical times: this fτuit rvas introduced from China into Europe at α later date. Lemons, οη the other hand, urere found ßη much of the classical world. Ιη one of Antiphanes' comedies (367 z.c,) he speaks of lemon seeds, α rarity τhατ uras jυsτ being

gifτed το the Athenians from the Gτeat King,himselξ but τhεγ IΛ/ere not yet ραπ of the food system. Athenaeus affirms that ßη τhε second òεητυτγ ,q..o., although the lemon had α delighτful fragrance, the fruit uras inedible. It rηras used οηΙγ ßη cupboards aird dravvers to plotect rnrool from moths (Athenaeus z.83a-f). There r,ηras also α belief that boiling α rnrhole lemon ßη Attic honey

until the lemon completely dissolved made syrup that both

Greeks and Romans believed to be α plotection against every poison, if taken medicinally ßη the morning. 3 cups (3ΟΟ g) fIour

8 eggs 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons lard or olive οßΙ for frying

Ι pinch of salt

Ι cup (25ο ml) honey

.

pomegranate seeds 4-5 dates, cut ßη pieces α dozen !Λ/αΙηυts, chopped

Place the fΙουτ οη α rnrork surface and make α τrell ßη the middle,

Ρυτ τhe eggs, egg γοΙΚ, salt, and 1 tablespoon of lard

ßη the middle and mix τogether to foτm α dough. Roll it out rather thick, ]ο6

] ]

about 'Λ inch, and cut into long rorvs, then cut the ror,ηrs into pieces about one inch long. Fry the pieces ßη α deep frying ραη ιιτßth hot οßΙ until uniformly brovrned. Heat the honey ßη α double boiler, and, rηrhen hot, drop the fried dough ßη and coat well. Then pite τhe dough balls οη top of each other, making α cone. If αηγ honey remains, pour it over the top, to αßΙοι,ητ the rnrhole mass to stick together. FßηαΙΙßι decorate rnrith pomegranate

seeds, dates, and nuts.Yield: about 3ο fried balls of dough.

Recipe 54

òΑτο,S ΕΝòΗΥτοΙ Menander mentions these ßη False Heracles (Kock 3.I48;Allinson 458), and Athenaeus includes them ßη his section οη plakous (ιa.6aac).The Loeb edition of Athenaeus erroneously translates this dessert as α "molded" cake. The name ßη fact comes lrom α Greek verb that means "turned back οη itself " or "trvisted." \Λ/ere

it not for Cato's recipe, the others yrould be considered valid. The enchyti dough is "trvisted," but ηοτ ßη α mold; ßτ is made by squeezing the dough tlrrough α tube to fall ßη spirals into hot cooking lard. It \Λ/αs the oldest Κηοτητη dessert and α representation of pastry chefs cooking it is found ßη the tomb of Ramses Ιν ßη τhe Valley of τhε Kings, ßη Egypτ. Iτ seems τhατ τhßs presentation mirrors that described by Cato and therefore rvas eαιeη ßη αηιßeηι Creece.

This is Cato's recipe: "Make 'enchytoi' the same \η/αγ γου make 'balloons,' but use α òΙοτh τητßτh α hole ßη it to press the dough τhrough, ßη spirals, ßητο boiling faτ, about the size οf tr,vo sticks. When ιhey are ready, coyer them rvith honey and heat them at α moderate temperature, Serve them rηrith honey and α s\Λ/eet wlne" (De agτ. 8ο). Ι4 οΖ. (5ΟΟ g) ricotta cheese cups (15ο g) flour

]º/Ζ

plenty of olive οßΙ or lard for frying Make τhε dough and place lt ßη α cookie press or ραsτιγ bag, and let ßτ fall ßη spirals into the boiling (smoking) fat, making sure

tο keep τhε spiral long. When

rηrhole, It should be about Ζ inches (6 cm) it is brown, take it out and put it οη paper torveis

το dry.\Λ/hen αΙΙ τhε dough it cooked, ρυτ τhe pastries οη α ρlατε, cover them rvith plenty of honey, and allorηr it soak ßη. Warm them ßη α moderate oven (3οοΟ F or ιòοΟ C) for α fe\v minutes

just before serving them.

Recipe 55

PLAKoUS (SτRUDEL) Athenaeus talks αt length about this dessert. He cites Demetrius of Scepsis; ßη his trvelfth-century book of

Trojan Battle Order, τhere

r,vas α city named "Thebes under Plakos" (Iliad 6.òg6-97).1τ

seems that the rηrord means "plate," urhich is to say that ιhe ρΙαΚous \\Ias squashed flat. Clearly Cato's plakous \^/as not flαt, but,

although layered; ßt rvas probably flat οη tοΡ. Iη Greece there \\Iere αη endless number of plakous and Athenaeus discusses rηrhich \Λ/ere most delicious. The best rnrere considered those from

Paros, so that Alexis ßη his Archilochus has one οΓ his characters

exclaim, "Ο γου fortunaιe old man, dlvelling ßη happy Paros, rηrhich country out of α11 ßη the rvorld produces the tvro things most fair, marble tο grace the Blessed, and |plakous] for morταls!" (Aτhenaeus ι4.644b-c). Sopaτer ßη his farce The Suiιoτs of Bacchus (Kaibel ι9Ζ, ) extols the quality of Samos's plakous, lvriτing, "Samos, vrhose name is fplakσus] maker" (Athenaeus 4,644c). Cato's recipe: ¹ke

tτητο

pounds of lvheat flour to make ιhε outside layer, plus

four pounds of flour and

trηro

of spelt to make the layers. Sofτen

τhe spelt ßη waτer and when it ls swollen, put it

ßη

α clean knead-

ing trough after having dried it, then make the dough. When it is lvell mixed, slor.ιrly add the fουι pounds of flour. Then,

το11

out the dough and make layers, and put them ßη α basket το dry. When τhey are drμ line them υρ and clean them with α cloth soaked ßη oliye οß1, and then cook them. Next, τake the

pounds of flour; make bread dough, mixing

tτητο

r.ηrith vrater,

to make

more layers ofdough.Take ι4 pounds offresh goat cheese, put it ßη water and make it soft, changing the times. Then, squeeze ßt, put

ßt ßη

\Λ/ater at least

α mortaτ and

thlee

through α sieve,

and then mix lt rηrith four pounds of honey. Norv, take α clean ραη 8 inches by 8 ßη [3ο cm by 3ο cm] and cover it lvith bay leaves basτed ßη οß1. Οη top of this, place the large layer, exτend-

ing over the sides οf the ραη, and start to make the plakous. Put dorηrn α layer of douglr, cover it rηrith the cream, then anothel pastry layer and another of cream, continuing until γου linish αßΙ

the dough and top.

α11

the cream, ending rvith α layer of dough οη

Then make sure αlΙ the filling is inside and c]ose it αlΙ ßη rviτh

the overhanging outside layer. Cook the plakous οη α fire urith

α

chimney [α big terracotta vase similal to our country sτoves] around rvhich γου can place coals, and even cover the chimney lηrith them. Cook long and slorvly and check evely so often to see

if it is done.When it is done, splead lots of honey over it."

(Cato De

αgτ.

76).

2 cups (5ΟΟ g) flour

enough ιΛ/ater to make dough (see Recipe 2, Kapyria) li9ht olive οßΙ pinch of salt 5 layers of dough (made as directed or bought ready-made) ºr2 cups (3οο 9) ricotta 3/c

cup (2ΟΟ g) honey

6-8 bay leaves Note:You can save α lot of time by purchasing frozen puff pastry sheets, and indeed your results may be lather betteι For those vrho rηrish to make their οιητη dough, first mix together rΛ/ater and flour, and τhεη divide it into frve parts, roiling ουt the dough very τhßη, αbουτ half as τhßòΚ as pie dough. Νεχτ, leτ ßτ dry, and once dry brush rηrith οßΙ and put ßη the oven to dry again. Μßχ the ricotta and honey. Cover the bottom of α baking dish rηrith bay leaves greased rηrith olive οßΙ and place α large layer

of dough, covering the ραη and overlapping the sides, οη top of τhe leaves. Then ταΚε one of τhe iayers of dough, òυτ το fiτ the ραη, and place ßτ οη τορ of the overlapping layer. Whατever dough γου chose, cover it vrith α layer ofricotta and honey and continue alternating α layer of dough and then α layer of ricotta/honey until the filling and the pasay are αΙΙ used υρ. Finaliy, ρυlΙ τhε edges ofthe bottom layer over the entire dessert, οßΙ ßτ and bake ßτ ατ 3Ζ5Ο F (ι65Ο C) for Ζο-3ο minuτes, checking for αη eyen brorηrnness. When it is golden brorηrn, take it out of the oven and bath ßη abundantly ßη honey.

Recipe 56

ΤΑGΕΝΙΤΕS "FΙooding these fried αttanitai ßη honey" f"aitanon" means frying ραη ßη lonic dialect] (PLG α.Ζ.α7α), Ιη fact, Athenaeus descτibes this desse't as α "p,lakous" fried ßη οßΙ and called "taynvia" (Athenaeus I4.646e).They ατε

mentioned by Magnes and also by the lηrriter of the second edition of Dionysus (Kock ι.7): "Have γου ever rηratched to see the hot pancakes steaming vrhen γου pour honey οη them?'' And Cratinus, ßη The laws, says: "And the hot pancakes ßη the morning thror,ιring ουt vapour" (Kock I.5Ζ,), From these excerpts ßη Athenaeus'S τeΧτ, \Λ/e See that tagenites \Δ/e.e eaten for breakfast. Tb have αη immedßατε leavening effect, curdled milk ηras added. Iη the days befoτe pasteu'ization, and before mßικ came ßη steriιe contaιners, it \Λ/αS easy to come by curdled milk.Today, this type of pancake is made ßη America iπith cottage cheese or ricotta. 2 cups (5ΟΟ g) flour 1/ι cup (6ο ml) ιιvhite

ιßιιßηe 1/ι cup (6ο ml) curdled milk (add α teaspoon of

lemon juice to regular milk) Ι2 teaspoon salt

olive οßΙ to grease the ραη honey for the ..dressing'' οη the cooked pancakes sesame seeds

Μßχ first four ingτedients

until smooth, and cook ßη small amounts, foτming α circle οη α greased Ιτγßηg ραη, turning over rηrhen mixture bubbles, to brorηrn evenly οr] Ιotr, sides. Serve hot, rηrith honey and α spτinkle of sesame seeds οη top.

ΑΜΡΗΙΡΗΟΝ "light

around" and rηre Κηοτητ that this vras α dessert served with candles as αη offering to Artemis. Philochorus (FHG α.α93) tells us that the name of amphiphon arose

Amphiphon means

α11

{τοm the fact τhat this dessert rηras carried to Artemis's temple οη

the seventeenth day of the month of Munichion (April) because that is the day rηrhen the sky is tr-ιrice as bright as usual. This ritual probably involved yarious types of desserts, but not one

of the recipes for them rvas given (Athenaeus ι4.64òα).

CHARISIOS Aristophanes mentions charisios ßη his Men of Dinneπille (Kock τ.44Ζ): "Fοτ us anro Ι uril] bake α grace-cake fcharisios] to eat τητhεη evening comes" (Athenaeus ια,6α6b).

cHoRιA Sr,ηreeτs

made rηriτh miik and honey (Athenaeus ι4.646e). The

presence of honey makes it c]ear that this

rηras α

dessert.

DIAKONION

Α τγρε of τhßη bread, like focaccia: it is identified ηο bεττετ τhαη that. Pherecraτes refers to ßt (Kock ι.ι94). Kock thinks ßτ mighτ be α flat cake made by slaves or diakones, or α base foτ plakous thaτ \Λ/αs not very good, So the author did not bother tο give αηγ

instructions for

hοι,ητ

to make ßt. This is based οη α quote from

Pherecrates: "he began tο eat the dßαΙòοηßοη though he already had αη amphiphon" (Aτhenaeus ια.6ααf).

DESSERΤ OF ZEUS This rnras α dessert made by roasting together grain called leuke (probably rvhiτe barley), chickpeas, cardamom, and small thin breads first soaked ßη milk and honey, and then served τητßth α saffron sauce (Athenaeus 14.643.b).

EcHιNoS Lynceus of Samos speaks of this dessert ßη his

Letter to Diagoτas

(Aτhenaeus τ4.647α), He states that this delicate pastry

ßη

Rhodes and that his friend explained horηr Unfortunatelμ the recipe r.ιras not given.

it

r.ιras

made

rηras made.

ELAPHoS ßη the shape of α deer made for the festival rηras made from sρεΙτ (today we rηrould substitute durum flour), honeχ and This

rηras

α dessert

of τhε Elaphebolia (Aτhenaeus ι4.646ε).Iτ

sesame seeds.

EMPEPτAS Seleucus (Athenaeus Ia.6a5d) defines this as α pie made r.ιrith baked cheeses, more or less similar to the French "νοΙ αυ vent'' bυτ likely much harder and heavier, more like the breadbaskeτs made into borvls today.

ENKRIDES This is small, fτied dough covered ßη honey. So says Aeschylus. Enkrides are also mentioned by Stesichorus (PlG 3.zo6;Athenaeus l4.645e); by Epicharmus; ßη Hand,to-Mouth Toilers by Nicophon (Kock ι.779);by Arisιophanes ßη Danaids (Kock ι.45Ζ); and by

Pherecrates ßη his Good-for,Nothings (Kock I. I68).

EPΙCHYTON

Nicophon mentioned focaccias

ßη his

epichyton

ßη α list of dessert breads and (Kock ι.778; Athenaeus

Hand-to-Mouth Toilers

ι4.6a5b-c).Iτ appears

το be fried dough, rηrhich Pamphilus says ιvere also called attanitai. (See Recipe òΖ.)

EPIDAIτRoN pastry made from barley flour, served after dinner, as explained by Philemon ßη his Οη AtticWords (Athenaeus 14.646b). This

τηταs α

EPΙKYKLIOS These rηrere Syracusan s\Λ/eets and from the name as translated it

is α type of doughnut. Epichaτmus cites them ßη his Earth and (Kaibel qò; Aτhenaeus ι4.ο4òε-f).

Sea

GLYKιNAS Ιη Seleucus's Glossarμ this dessert is said ßο have been made ßη Crete, fτοm grape sylup and olive οßß (Athenaeus ι4.645d). Although flour rηras not mentioned, ßß must have been part of the recipe.

GoURoS Solon says thaι this is α lentil-based dessert, as referenced ßη his lambicVerses (PLG Ζ.58; Diehl ι.38;Aτhenaeus ι4,64òf). Iτ is uncleaτ rηrhether this recipe used flουτ and lenιils, or flour made from lenιils, similaτ to bean-flour desserts currently made ßη japan.

ΙτRΙοΝ This rvas α soft cookie made

rηrith sesame and honey as mentioned byAnacreon (PLG Ζ6ο; Athenaeus 4.6α6d); by Sophocles ßη Eris (ΤτGF ι7α) and by Aristophanes ßη his The Acharnians ( ιο9Ζ,

).

KREιoN This

ιηταs

α type of flat bread that α nevrlyvred gave to her hus-

band as α gift. It rηras cooked οη α brazier and covered ßη honey, and it rnras also served to the friends of the ner.ιrlylveds. So states

Philitas ßη his lrregulari4/ords (Kuchenmýlter, frag. 37; Athenaeus Ia.6a5d),

KRIBANAI These seem to be different than the kribanites that are mentioned

ßη the chapter οη breads. Sosibius, ßη the third chapter of

Οη

Acman, says thaι they ατε shaped like breasts and that the Spartans

served them at dinners for rηromen, rηrhen the young girls

rπrere

preparing

bride

to sing α hymn of praise ßη honor of α

(Athenaeus ι4.646α).

ΚRΙΜΝΙΤΕS

This alludes to α dessert that r,ηras made rηrith unrefined barley flour (called krimnon ßη Greek) (Athenaeus 4.646α).

ΚRοτΕτΑ Probably this τηταs α crunchy dessert, at least accoτding to the ΙtαΙßαη editor Rocci. The name supports τhis guess. The 1ßτεταΙ translaτion of τhe phrase is: "kroteta, liberally soaked ßη τhßòΚ

sauce [honey] from the humming-uringed bee" (Athenaeus I4.64ob).

MYLLoI Heracleides of Syracuse recounts ßη Οη Institution that the last day üf the feast of Thesmophoria ßη Syracuse, α dessert made of sesame and honey rπras shaped like women's sexual organs; it came ßο be known as mylloi ßη Sicily. This dessert rnras paraded around ßη honor of the goddess (Athenaeus 4.647α).

NANoS Thin bread made

rnrith cheese and o1ive οß1. Given that the text

vrhich means bread, it is evidently α flourbased recipe; ßτ is probably the pτecursor of libum (Aτhenaeus uses the

r,ηrord artos,

τ4.6α6ò).

ΝΑSτοS \Λ/e οηlγ knornr that this was α dessert rηrith α delicious filling (Athenaeus ι4,646ε).

NEELAτA Demosthenes mentions this

ßη his prayer to Ctesiphonus

(De

Coι. Ζ6ο). Harpocrates says that they are made urith dough of

roughly crushed barley and honey, rηrhich is τhen cooked and coyered ßη grapes and chickpeas (Athenaeus I4.645b). The dOugh rn,as sιreιched τhßη.

PAISA Smali desserts eaten αt Kos (Athenaeus 14.646f).

ΡSοτΗ ιΑ This is α significantly crumbly dessert. Iη his Good-for-Nothings, Pherecrates says, "But ßη Hades γου vrill τeceive α good-for-

noτhing and crumbs [psothio]" (Kock I.168;Aτhenaeus ι4.646c). (Ιη the r,ηrork of Pherecrates, money ßη the kingdom of the dead rηras

called α "good for nothing," and

rηras \Λ/οτth t\η/ο

crumbs.)

SESAMΙDES These spherical svreets rπere made rηrith toasted sesame seeds and

honey,

ßη the

Pergamon region, these desserts are still made

today (Athenaeus 14.646f ).

SESAMOΤUROPAGA These

srηreets \Λ/ere

ßη olive οßΙ, (Athenaeus

made i,ηrith sesame seeds and cheese fried

covered vrith celery seeds (probably

ι4.64c).It is believed the name of

given by Philoxenus of Chythera,

τητhο

τοαsτεd)

τhis dessert

r,ηras

used complex yrords and

phrases made υρ of other rηrords, much like those ßη German, He rηras τeased

by Antiphanes ßη his Third-Raτe Actors (Kock 2,,ιο2),

\Λ/hο praises

him as αη ßηνεηtοτ of many special

r,ryords

ßη

α

jumbled language.

SΤΑΙΤΙΤΑΙ

These rnrere crepes made with spelt seed flour and honey (Athenaeus ια.6α6b). Epicharmus mentions them ßη The Marιiage of Hebe (Kaibel ιοο). Α very liquid dough \Λ/αs τhßηΙγ spread οη τhε frying ραη and rηrhen cooked, sprinkled οη top rvith honey, sesame seeds, and fresh cheese, according to latτocles' instructions.

SτRΕΡτοΙ The name leads us to believe that these rπrere doughnuts (Athenaeus 4.6a5b). Demosthenes mentions them ßη his prayer ßη honor of Cτesiphon ßη τhε ρΙαγ Οη the Crown (De Cor. Ζ6ο).

S\^/EEτS

Νοτ beττer identified. One of the Deipnosophists, υlρßαη, says that he rηrould defrniιely eat "s\Λ/eets" that rnrere creamy οτ soft, ßη

vrhich case, he rπrould ask for α mystilen (α piece of bread dough baked ßη the shape of α spoon to serve as αη edible utensil for eating liquids or semi-liquids. There is αη example of α mystilen ßη τhε Museum of Cairo). The οηΙγ thing vre know about this dessert is that many pine nuts rnrere mixed into it, and the nuts rηrere

called by ππο different names, ostrokis and kokkaios.

τυRΑΚιΝΑS Thin bread made rηrith cheese, similar to dough suggested by Cato. These rnrere served vrith honeyed milk (Athenaeus ι4.643c).

Condiments, Flavorings, αηα )eas0ntngs Antiphanes lists spices and flavorings that every ancient Greek cook should have οη hand: dried grapes (raisins), sαΙτ, silphium (α garlic-like bulb), cheese, thyme, sesame seeds, soda, myrrh, cumin, honeμ marjoram, dates, vinegar, olives, herbs for spicy sauces, capers, egg, salted fish, rryatercτess, grape leaves, and curdled milk,

CARA\^/AY SEEDS

This spice is easy to gro\Λ/ and if the seeds are dispersed, the plant inrill seed itself, Wild carar.ιray has smai]er seeds than τhε cultivated plant and also has α more pronounced flavor.

CORIAN DER (Coriandrum sativum) Both the leaves and seeds of this plant are used, but one should be ayraτe that each has α distinctive flavor. It is ηοt commonly found ßη ΙταΙγ but it is very popular ßη Asia and the Ameτicas. Fresh coτiander or cilantτo is sold ßη bunches, like paτsley, and the leaves ΙοοΚ similaτ, bui paIsley and coτiander leaves have very different flavors. It is vrell to beaτ ßη mind that α ceτtain pro-

portion of the population has αη almost allergic reaction to

cilanτro, sr.vearing that it tastes as bad as, οι \Λ/orse than, soap. The name "coriander" comes from the Greek koris, ιητhßòh means

cimex, αη insect, presuming α similarity betureen the odor of the

bug and thατ of the green leaves of the plant. Coriander seeds, milder and seem not to pτovoke the same reaction

hornzever, are

as the leaves.

cUMιN Cumin is α wel]-knorπn spice to both ancient and modern peoples (Ρlßηγ Nat. Hist. ιο.16ι, Ζο. ι6ι).

GARUM Mentioned frequently ßη Athenaeus (see z.67c), it

rηras

one of

the ancient Greek seasonings that he most disdained. Αη equivalent sauce is still used rnrith excellent results ßη the cooking of various Asian countries. This product, called nuoc-nam, is sold ßη many Eastern specialty food stores ßη Europe and the Americas. If not available, γου can make this universal sauce yourself: dry and sαΙτ fish, τhεη take the resulting liquid and add olive οßΙ,

LovAGE This is called ligusticum ßη almost αΙΙ the recipes from De re coquinaria. It can be found ßη gardening and plant stores, and can be gιο\Λ/η ßη windor.ηr boxes or other garden containers. The leaves have αη agreeable flavor that falls somerηrhere between

celery and parsley. One could, therefore, substitute for lovage rηrith α mixture of parsley and celery

ßη recipes.

MARJoRAM (Aτhenaeus Ζ.68α)

ΜΙΝτ

(Mentha pulegium)

MYRRH (Aτhenaeus Ζ.66α)

*oxYMEL, (ibid.) Evidently α combination of vinegar and honey

-oxYRHoDINoN" (ibid.) Probably rose-flavored "oxymel" (vinegar and honey)

SAFFLo\^/ER This is "false saffron." It is sold throughout the Middle East and ßη Egypt and is often mistaken for saffron by naive tourists. Ιt

has reddish pistils, and rηrhen added to α dish, gives the color, although not the flavor, of saffron. It lvas often used ßη antiq-

uity as α dyesτuff,

SιLPH ΙυΜ

Silphlum is the most famous spice found ßη antiquity, α vrild ρßαητ from Syria τhατ grerv ßη τhe steppes of Africa and τhατ disappeared around the time of Nero. Antiphanes, ßη his Unhappy lovers (Kock 2.ι73), teases the Syrians rηrho seem to taik of noth

ing buτ cabbages and silphium: "I will not sail back to the place from which \η/e \^Iere carried auray, for Ι τηταηt to say goodbye to all-horses, silphium, chariots, silphium sιalks, steeple-chasers, silphium ]eaves, fevers, and silphium juice" (Athenaeus 3.Ioof). This makes the Syrians seem α bit fixatedl

τΗΥΜΕ

(Thymus vulgaris)

VιNEGAR We find lists of various kinds of vinegar i,viιh descriptions of their benefits and defects. Greek rηrriters calied vinegar the "best of τhε seasonings." The philosopher Chryslppus said τhατ τhε best vinegars r,ηrere those from Egypt and Cnidus. Οη the oτher hand, Aristophanes preferred vinegar from Sphettus and he also

mentioned one from Cleonae, but given that there is a "Cleonae" ßη Argos, Athos, and Phocis, rηre do ηοt Κηοτητ to \η/hich region

he referred. The vinegar from Decelea r.ηras also mentioned, but ηοt favorably. Ιη fact, the comedian Alexis (Kock Ζ.4οο; Athenaeus z.67e) inrrote, "Afιer compelling me tο drain four cups οf Decelean home-made vinegar [evidently meaning the arηrful rηrine of this region], ηο\Λ/ γου drag me straight through the market."

Index Aeschylus, Ι1, ΙΙ3

οη breads, 3, 36-41

Agatharchides of Cnidus, 26

The Deipnosopλisk,

Agrigentum,30

οη desserts, Ι02-Ι7

Alexander the Great, 25-26

οη Hedupaιheia, 6 οη lemons, 106

Alexandria,39,60 61 Aexis, ΙΖ 18,Ζ1,27-Ζ8, 70, 95, 109, ιΖ0 amia, 73

amiloi, Ι 03 ιmorbites,

0,Ι

1

Amphictyon, 29 ampλiphon,

1 Ι

Alacreon,

Ι 14

2

baτley soup, 53, 54

meats, 63,6+,70

appetizers,

44

9 Ι

apples,25-26 Archestratus of Gela

οη appetizels, 44, 46 οη banquets, 6-7, 8 οη breads, 36

onseafood,6,71 7+, 79_88,9ι,93,97_10ι

crepes, Ι

ßη Golden Age, 6 Homel οη, 4-5

flavorings,1l8 20 flowers, 7-8 focaccia, 37, 40

Daphnus οf Ephesus,

bay leaves, Ζ4

Delos, 106

7Ι

Demetrius οf Scepsis, 109 Demosýenes, 116, ΙΙ7

brazier bread, 40

Diagoras, 40

36 43 Ι

00

Ι02-Ι7

desserτs,

flied dough, 105-7,

garlic, Ζ0 garum, 43, 64, 69, gΙΙιò,

rf

18

Glaucus ofRhodes, 90

Dicaearchus,23

gΙykinas, Ι 14

dice bread, 4Ι

gοατS, 63

Byzantium, 20

Diocles ofCarystus,39

Golden Age,

Dionysos,7,13,28,29

gonos, Ζ4

Dioxippus, 69 Diphilus, 20, 59, Ι02

θouros,

dogfish, 82-83, 98-99

grape leaves,

dolmas,5l 5Ζ

grasshoppers, 52

doughnuτS, 1ι+,117

greens, 57, 58

5

Ι

diakonion, Ι 1 2

Dioc]es, 24,

cardoons,

13

Ι /

brill,80 bulgur,5l,54

Callias. Sεε Diocles Ca]limedon, 1Ζ, 70 capers,96 Caranus, Ι4 ΙΖ caraway seeds, 1 Ι8

1

Γried shrimp, 72

boiled meaιs, 60-6 ι, 68, 70 boletus breads, 40 brain pudding, 66-67

bream, 88, 97,

ΙOΙ

ßη regional food, 20 flsh heads, 93, 96 flsh sauce, 43, 66, 1 Ι9 flag fish, Ι 00

basyniai, Ι06-7

breads, 3, 6,

Ζ3

recipes for,

ΙΙΙ Ι 7

Cumin, 1 Ι 8 CuttiefiSh,89-90

2

52

flsh

cubo bread, 4Ι

13

52

Arcadia,20

Cratinus,

fennel, 46

figleaves,5l

10

Cτοbγlιιs, 40

Antiphanes, 3, 3 2, 68, t06, ι ι6_18, ιΖ0 Altony, Mark, 32

οη seafood, 86, 89, οη Soups, 53, 56

9

courtesans,

Creτe,2ι, Ι00

Babyloιia,

οι

20

condτos,54 coriander, 1 1 8 coronets,7 cost of food, 26-28

ΑτταgßηυS, Ζ5 1

Euangelus, Ι4 Eubulus, 69 Eιιpolis, Ι0

Ζ

3

Ι

Athens,21-23,39,40

Antidoτus, 40

Apicius οη appetizers, 49 De re coquinario, 35, 53, ι ι9

1ι8

οη sauces, 4Ζ-43 οηseafood,7Ι Ι0Ι οη seasonings, Ι Ι9-20 οη soups, 54-55 οη wine, 29, 30

αttαηßtdß, 105,

aplrrodisiacs, 49

cod, Ι0

CondimeDts, 42-43,

οη meats, 60, 68-70

mdra, 9 mglerfish, 99

apanτhrakis,39

Cleopaτra,

Ι-2, 35

Ι

00

gobies, 74

1

6

8

Ι4

gIains, 5

Ι-5Ζ, 80

5

gynaecea, 8-9

8

Carneius οf Megara,

1

3

Cato, 38, 45, 53, ι03,

ecλinos, Ι Ι 3

ee],7Z-78,83

elops, Ι00

Hadrian, 10 hake,101 Harpocrates, Ι Ι 6 Hellenism, 25-26

charisios, Ι 1 2

empeptos, Ι Ι 3

Heracleides, 4

cheese, 3, 69, 8+, 90, 94, 104, 108_10

εncλytoi, Ι08

Heracleides οf Syracuse,

enkrides,

Heτodotus,

epatos,

arugula, 49

chicken, 66-6Ζ China, 93 chippura,9Z

Athenaeus

choria, Ι Ι Ζ

ι08 ι0,1ιΖ

Archilochus, 33 Arclrippus, 4Ζ

Cebes of Cyzicus,

Aristophanes, 39, 45, 52,

chamber pots, 10-Ι

53, 55, 69, Aristotle,100

1

ι2-14, ιΖ0

art, 8-9

A]temis,91, ΙΙ2 artolaganon,

3 7

οη appeιizels, 44-46,

48,50,5Ζ οη banquets, 8, 10, ι ι_ι2, 14

Egypt, Ι08 elapλos,

Ι3

Ι

3

1 1

1 1

3

Ι00 Ephesus,97 Eplcharmus, 94, 11+, Ι17

Chrysippus, ΖΖ-Ζ3, 56, 120 cicadas,52 Cleitarchus,25

epichyιOn,

Cleomenes, 28-29

Erasisτraτus,90

Ι

epidoitron, Ι

1

Ι 13,

1

Ι Ι5

28 29

Hipparchus, 70 Hippolochus the Macedonian, Ι 7

Hlpponex, Ι05 Homer,_2-6,44 honey, 50, 103 hyacinth bulbs,

3

Ι4

epikyklios, Ι Ι4

ι2ß

48 50,

56

Iatrocles, ß

nanos,

7

1

1 1

5

psothia, Ι Ι 6

Stesichorus, Ι Ι 3

6

Ptolemy, 26

StIattis οf Phoenicia,

India, Ζ

nastos,

ims, food at,77-Z8

nee]ata, Ι Ι 6

islkembe sλorbasi, 60

Nicander of Colophon, 54

Ramses 1Υ 108

stleptoi,

Nicophon,

rays, 76, 84

strudel, Ι09,10 strufloli,106

ßτιßOη,

Ι4

1

1 Ι

1 1

3

regional foods, 20-25 Rhodes, 20,40, 98, 99.

Nicostratus,44 Japan, 93,

14

1

Jerusalem artichokes, kapyria,

3

5

8

kottabos, κτεßοη,

olives, 45-46

3

onions, 3,44 ormges, 106

1-3 2

4

1 Ι

kribanai,

Rome,57,69,98

1

15

oxygarum, 43 oxymel, 1 19 oxyrhodlnon, 1 19

kroι€ta, Ι Ι 5 Larensis, Ρ Livy,

2

1

1-52

sturgeon, 98, 100 sweets, Ι Ι 7 swordfish, 85

symposium, 29-33 Syracuse,99,100 Syria, ΙΖ0

roses, Ζ, 66-67 IΟSewater, 103

Roxane, 26

taθeiites,

1 1 1

Tarantum, Ζ5

Ι

lebia, 100 lemons, 79, Ι06 lentil soups, 13, 55, 56, 68 lentils, ßη desseτts, 1 14 2

1 1

organ mεατS, 69-70 ουΖο,

5

suckling pig, 64-65

09-1 0

Rocci, ß 15 rockfish, 100 Roman Empire, 35

5

7

stu{fed squid, 95

ricoττa cheese, 104, t08, 1

1 1

stuffed leaves,

113

1 1

krimnitεs,

Ieuke,

octopus, 101 olive οßΙ, 4

8

kitaros,80

ligusticum, Ι Ι9,

6Ζ,119-20

paisa, Ι Ι 6

safflower,

Pamphilus, 1 13 pm bread,41 pmcakes, 1Ι Ι parasltes, 1 1-12

sαfΙτοη, 62,

Parmeniscus the Cynlc,

sardines, 74, Ζ5

1

Thais, Ζ6

19-20

Thebes, Ζ5

salad dressing, 59

Theophrastus,

salpa,101

thrion, 5 1-5 2 thyme, Ι20 ιßsαηα, 53, 54

salty foods,44, Ι02

ι3

lobsteτs,72

sauces,

42-43, 62, 82,

83

3

1

ιoasts,30-3Z

parmesan cheese, 84, 94

scabbard fish, 94

tongue, 69

lukumathes,105

Paros, Ι09

Lycurgus,23,24

pallot fiSh, 87

Llmceus, 17

pasta, 38

tlocta,38 triggerflSh,96-97 Triphonus, 7

Lynceus of Samos, 2Ι-22,

pecorino cheese, 84, 94 pepper, 44

scorpion fish, 86 Scyιhims, 28-29 sea memones, 74 sea urchins, Ζ4, 47 seafood,47, Ζ1 ΙOΙ

peτfumes, 7-8, 13

seasonings,

lovage,

19

1

40,113 mackerel, 100 Magnes, 111 mahallebi, Ι03 mahi-mahi, 82-83 male banqueιs, 9-1 Mardonius, 25

marjorm,

Pherecrates, 68,

1

Martial, 49 meat

60

weddings, Ι5

13,

18_ι9, ιι6_17

pig's feet, 68-69

Pinenuts, ΙΙ7

Ι

ΡΙατο, 12

1

15

ΙΙ9

mystilen,

1 1

7

ιunips, 50

silphium, 70, Ι20 skates,76 sole, 80, 99 Solon, 22, Ι 14 Sopater,13,70, Ι09 Sophocles,1Ι, Ι14 Sosibius, 1 1 5 Sosippus,59 soups, 24, 53 58 Sparta, 23-Ζ4, Ζ8-29

mol]usks,

mustard, 50

Semos, 106

Sicily,46, Ι04

Ι

Ι-92, 100

Turkey,

phllosophers' bmquets,

pita bread, 39

09-Ι

0

Plutarch (dimer guest), 13 Plutπch (hisτorim), 24, 30 polenta, 54 Ιporgy, Ι00 pork, 60-6 1, 64-70 ροτατοεs,

,ι22

5

8

16

sεsamoιuropago,

1 1

6-1

7

sharks, 99, 100

shrimp, 7Ζ

spelt,

Speusippus, 100 1 1

8-Ζ0

squid, 95 stOßtßιαß,

Yarro, 1,49 vegetables,5,53-59 vinegar, 79, 120 vomiting, 1, 1Ι ßυΙνα eiectitia, 70 wedding banquets, 14-1 wine, 3, Ζ8-33, 44

women,8-10 weaths, 7

Zeno, 55, 56 Zeus, 29,

5Ι

spices,

1 1

starch,103

1

5Ι, 54, 60, 97, Ι03

Seleucus,113,114 1

Ζ

1 1

τυιbοτ, 80-8

Phi]onides, Ζ9

Ρ]ακα, 2

9

turakinas,

8-20

sesamides,

pΙakous,

7Ι

1 1

tuna,73,79,93

Philemon, 114 Philippides, Ι 0Ζ Philiιas, 1 14 Philochorus, Ι Ι2

Menmder, Ζ0, Ζ6-Ζ7 , 108 mßητ, 42, 62, 119 Mithaecus, 94

mylloi, myrrh,

1

Philoxenus of Cythera, 70

Megasthenes, Ζ

mullet,

Ι2,

1Ζ_13

Homer οη, ,3-6 at

1

ι16

Ι 19

τeclpes for,

Ι3

Streptikos,41

7

1

12

7