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Jinx the Cat

Copyright © 2017 by Rachel M. Randle, Sleepy Sheep Patterns, All Rights Reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! You are not allowed to copy, share (for sale or for free), alter, translate, publish, or redistribute this pattern or any part of the pattern over the Internet or offline. You are welcome to sell any dolls you make from this pattern but please provide a link to my etsy store and the pattern name in your description as follows: Jinx the Cat Pattern by Sleepy Sheep Patterns www.etsy.com/shop/sleepysheeppatterns/

1

Skill Level

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Basic to intermediate crochet and amigurumi skills, you will need to know how to change yarn colors, as well as an invisible single crochet decrease, surface crocheting, making a magic circle and how crochet in the round. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions, I will answer as quickly as possible. Also check out my instagram and send me photos of your final creation!

Abbreviations

US Terms

ch = chain sc = single crochet stitch hdc - half double crochet stitch inc = single crochet increase (make 2 sc into 1 stitch) dec = single crochet decrease (2 sc together but I prefer to use the invisible decrease technique which is single crocheting 2 stitches together through the front loops)

Materials

slst = slip stitch

2.00 mm crochet hook

sk = skip

2.75 mm crochet hook

st(s) = stitch(es) BLO = single crochet in back loops only FLO = single crochet in front loops only * = repeat instructions around rnd(s) = round(s) F/O = fasten off [ ] = total number of stitches you should have for the round or row WS = Wrong side RS = Right side cc - color change

DK or Worsted weight yarn in a variety of colors See the “Before you begin...” section for exact yarn yarn needle sewing pins 2 - 6mm safety eyes stitch marker or extra piece of yarn scissors soft stuffing fabric glue blush, oil pastel or light pink fabric marker 1- 2.5” bell (see pg.#25)

2

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Before you begin...

This doll is crocheted in the round from the feet to the head as one piece, the arms are joined just as the legs are. Try to crochet tightly and keep the same gauge throughout the doll. Jinx is about 11” tall (not including her witch hat). To create Jinx, I used Paintbox Cotton DK yarn in Light Caramel (skin color), Paper White (underwear, legs), Melon Sorbet (shirt, hat band, bows on shorts), Soft Fudge (hair), Coffee Bean (boots, hat, belt) and Pure Black (boot strings, belt tie, ears, tail, collar). For her striped socks if you do not want a “jog” I recommend using Planet June’s Perfect Stripes Tutorial otherwise color change as normal (I show pictures of the differences on pg.#3). You are welcome to use any size/color yarn just adjust your hook accordingly and read any notes or tips for help! If you use a larger yarn and hook size you may need larger safety eyes as well.

How to do a clean F/O...

I use this for the arms and most color changes, if I don’t specify to use this type of F/O just use a normal F/O. You don’t have to use this technique I just prefer to use it so that there are not any bumps and it makes for a smoother color change.

Insert your yarn needle into the 2nd st from your F/O and pull yarn through

Insert your yarn needle down into the middle of the last sc you made on the last round (where you F/O’d) and pull the yarn through

This is what it should look like when you’re done 3

Arms

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Make 2

Use 2.00 mm hook and Light Caramel yarn

R1: magic circle [6] R2: (sc 1, inc)* [9] R3-4: sc around [9] (2 rnds) R5: sc 4, dc 4 in same st, sc 4[12] R6: sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec 2x [9] R7-8: sc around [9] (2 rnds) Stuff hand lightly R9: dec 1x, sc around [8] Stuff the wrists lightly but leave the rest of the arm unstuffed R10-27: sc around [8] (18 rnds) Use a clean F/O for both arms TIP: You do not need to leave a long tail for sewing, the arms will be crocheted to the body later. See pictures on pg.#3 for how to do a clean F/O.

Legs

Make 2

TIP: See the Before you begin... section on pg.#3 about making the stripes, if you want to use the Perfect Stripes technique I have included a link in the 2nd paragraph.

Normal color change

Perfect Stripes/Jogless Stripes 4

Legs

Continued...

Use 2.00 mm hook and start with Paper White yarn

R1: magic circle [6] R2: inc around [12] R3: (sc 1, inc)* [18] R4: sc around [18] R5: (BLO) sc around [18] R6: sc around [18] cc to Pure Black R7: sc 6, dec 3x, sc 6 [15] R8: sc 5, dec 3x, sc 4 [12] cc to Paper White R9: sc 4, dec 2x, sc 4 [10] Stuff foot - make sure to stuff leg as you crochet about every 5 or so rows R10: sc around [10] cc to Pure Black R11-12: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Paper White R13-14: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Pure Black R15-16: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Paper White R17-18: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Pure Black R19-20: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Paper White R21-22: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Pure Black R23-24: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Paper White R25-26: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Pure Black R27-28: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Paper White R29-30: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Pure Black

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R31-32: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Paper White R33-34: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Pure Black R35-36: sc around [10] (2 rnds) cc to Paper White R37-40: sc around [10] (4 rnds) Clean F/O the 1st leg. Repeat to make the 2nd leg, do not F/O the 2nd leg.

Completed Legs 5

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Body Use 2.00 mm hook and continue to use Paper White yarn

Make sure feet are facing away from you before you ch 2 and join, you will be continuing in white color yarn. R1: Ch 2, join to leg with sc, sc 9 around (for a total of 10 sc + 2 ch), sc in back of ch 2, 10 sc [24] R2-4: sc around [24] (3 Rounds) R5: (sc 10, dec)* [22] R6: sc around [22] Change to Light Caramel yarn R7-8: sc around [22] (2 Rounds) R9: dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3, dec [18] R10: (sc 7, dec)* [16] R1: Example R11-17: sc around [16] (7 Rounds) This picture is from Luna’s pattern but the legs are handled the exact same way when joining!

sc into the back of these ch 2 sts

R1: Completed R17: Completed

6

Body

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Continued...

right

start, counts as 1 sc

left

d en

Stuff R18: join arm by sc 8, sc 8 along back, join 2nd arm sc 8, sc 8 on front of body [32] TIP: Make sure thumbs are pointing in the correct direction! R19: (sc 2, dec)* [24] R20: (sc 2, dec)* [18] R21: (sc 1, dec)* [12] Stuff R22: (sc 1, dec)* [8] R23: sc around [8] Do not F/O and continue onto the head instructions

foot

foot

R18: Example

The body should have 32 sts around and look like this once the arms are joined

joining the 2nd arm to the body

R18 completed

R18 completed

R23 completed

7

Head

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Use 2.00 mm hook and continue using Light Caramel yarn

R1: sc around [8] R2: inc around [16] Stuff neck very firmly R3: (sc 1, inc)* [24] R4: (sc 2, inc)* [32] R5: (sc 3, inc)* [40] R6: (sc 4, inc)* [48] R7: (sc 5, inc)* [56] R8-16: sc around [56] (9 rnds) Insert safety eyes between row 11 & 12 with 9 sc in between R17: (sc 5, dec)* [48] R18-19: sc around [48] (2 rnds) R20: (sc 4, dec)* [40] Start Stuffing R21: (sc 3, dec)* [32] R22: (sc 2, dec)* [24] R23: (sc 1, dec)* [16] Stuff more R24: dec 8x [8] Finish stuffing R25: dec 3x [5] F/O and weave in ends to close hole

This is what your doll should look like so far! 8

Clothes

Shorts

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Use 2.00mm hook and Paper White yarn

TIP: The shorts are made similar to how we join the legs to make the body. There are pictures for help. R1: ch 14, sc into the 1st ch you made to form a ring, sc 13 around [14]

R1 completed R2: ch 1, sk st and sc into next st* repeat around [14] (example on next page) TIP: We will be running thread to create “ties” through the sts that are skipped. If you do not wish to have ribbons on the side of the shorts just sc around on R2. Photos and instructions continued on the next page... 9

Shorts

Continued...

R3: (sc 1, inc)* [21] R4-5: sc around [21] (2 rnds) R6: (sc 1, dec)* [14] Clean F/O 1st leg and repeat R1-6 for 2nd leg. Do not F/O the 2nd leg you will join to the 1st leg like we did on the body. Continue onto R7. R7: ch 1 and join with a sc to the 1st leg anywhere, sc 13 sts around, sc into the back of the ch 1, sc 14 sts around [30] R8: (sc 13, dec)* [28] R9: sc around [28] R10: (sc 5, dec)* [24] R11-13: sc around (3 rnds) R14: (sc 10, dec)* [22] R15: slst around the top of the shorts Clean F/O and weave in ends

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R2 Example - ch 1 and sk st R4 Example - Ch 1 and join

sc into the back of the ch 1 R4 completed Instructions and photos continued onto the next page...

10

Shorts

Continued... R7 completed

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Completed shorts!

For the Ribbons - use Melon Sorbet yarn and double thread through your yarn needle, weave the yarn through the ch 1 spaces you made on R2. We will tie into bows once the shorts are placed on your doll during the Getting Dressed section...

Weave your yarn in and out through the ch 1 spaces you created on R2.

Once finished weaving, cut the yarn at the bottom of the needle and knot off. Make sure your lengths of yarn are equal.

Completed shorts! 11

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Shirt Use 2.00mm hook and use Melon Sorbet yarn

To Start - ch 27 and sc into 1st ch you made to form a ring (just like the shorts!) R1-6: sc around [27] (6 rnds) R7: (sc 7, dec)* [24] TIP: We will be creating the tail hole on R8 if you are not making a kitty you can just sc around on R8. R8: ch 2 and sk 2 sts, sc 22 [24] R9: sc around [24]

R10: (sc 10, dec)* [22] R11-18: sc around [22] (8 rnds) TIP: We will be creating the sleeve holes on R19, pictures are below for reference. R19: sc 6, ch 5 & sk 5 sts, sc 5, ch 5 & sk 5 sts, sc in the last st of the rnd [22] R20: sc around [22] Clean F/O and weave in ends

To Start Example - Form a ring

R1 Completed

R19 Examples: ch 5 & sk 5 sts to make sleeve holes

R19 Example (2nd sleeve hole)

R19 Completed

Completed Sleeveless Shirt 12

Shirt

Continued...

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Use 2.00mm hook and use Melon Sorbet yarn

To create the long back of the shirt you will join to the front of the shirt like in the photos and work in rows. 1: ch 1 (does not count as st) and sc into same st you chained from, sc 17 sts [18] 2: ch 1 & turn, sc 18 sts [18] 3-11: Repeat step 2 (9 rows) Now we will start crocheting around the bottom and back of shirt. 12: inc in first corner and sc around, make sure to inc in each corner (all 4) Once you reach the beginning st of step 12, F/O and weave in ends

Join at the front of the shirt and, sc around the back of the shirt

Step 1 Completed (Front View)

Step 11 Completed - to start step 12, inc in 1st corner then sc around in the direction of the arrows

Make sure to inc in each corner

Step 12 Completed

13

Sleeves

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Make 2

Use 2.00mm hook and use Melon Sorbet yarn

R1: join with ch 1 under arm (like in pictures) then sc in same st as the ch 1 you just made (ch 1 does not count as a st), sc 9 sts around [10] R2-5: sc around [12] (4 rnds) R6: (sc 1, inc)* [15] R7-11: sc around [15] (5 rnds)

R12: (sc 4, inc)* [18] R13: (sc 5, inc)* [21] R14-16: sc around [21] R17: (sc 6, inc)* [24] R18-20: sc around [24] (3 rnds) Clean F/O and repeat for 2nd sleeve

R1 Example - start in the middle and ch 1, sc into the same st you chained from

R1 completed

R5 Completed Example continue until you are finished with the 1st sleeve and repeat R1-20 to make the 2nd sleeve.

This is what your shirt should look like with completed sleeves! 14

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Belt Use 2.00mm hook, Coffee Bean yarn and Pure Black yarn

TIP: The belt is worked in rows not rounds! You can either sew the belt to the shirt OR glue the belt to the shirt. I glued the belt onto the shirt for time purposes but it is up to you! 1. ch 16, sc into 2nd ch from hook and sc 14 sts [15] 2-5. ch 1 & turn, sc 15 sts [15] (4 rows) F/O, either weave in ends (if gluing) or leave a tail for sewing to the shirt. Pin to the shirt and glue or sew. Make sure not to glue the edges down that you will be threading the black yarn through. Cut black yarn and thread through the belt, see pictures for reference.

Pin the belt to the shirt and either sew or glue onto the shirt. Make sure not to glue the edges of the belt that you will be threading through! Insert your threaded yarn needle and pull black yarn through the top of the belt.

Ex. Top of the belt is threaded on both sides

Now begin to run your yarn needle through in diagonals across to each side of the belt. You will have to repeat until you make 2 “x’s” and a straight line across the top and bottom. Pictures for reference are continued onto the next page... 15

Belt

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Continued...

To finish the belt (3rd picture) - sew the thread across to the bottom of the belt to create a straight line and pull through the inside of the shirt, knotting off the end and trimming the thread. Repeat this for the other side (see 4th picture) to finish the belt!

Completed Belt!

Boots

Make 2

Use 2.00mm hook and Coffee Bean yarn

R1: magic circle [6] R2: inc around [12] R3: (sc 1, inc)* [18] R4: (sc 2, inc)* [24] R5: (BLO) sc around [24] R6-8: sc around [24] (3 rnds) R9: sc 9, dec 3x, sc 9 [21] R10: sc 7, dec 3x, sc 8 [18] R11: sc 7, dec 2x, sc 7 [16] R12-18: sc around [16] Clean F/O and weave in ends. Repeat R1-18 to make another boot. See photos on next page for how to embroider the “x’s”. 16

Boots

Continued...

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Once you have embroidered your “x’s”, knot off the yarn on the inside of the boot and trim the ends. Repeat for the 2nd boot! 17

Before you begin...

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I recommend using a permanent washable fabric glue (like Fabri-Tac or something similar) to glue the hair down to the head. Make sure to crochet the hair very loosely and use a larger hook than you did for the rest of the doll. If you need more coverage or longer hair you can always add chains to each strand!

Hair Use 2.75mm hook and Soft Fudge yarn

R1: magic circle [8] R2: inc around in BLO [16]

Bottom Layer

TIP: Each st in the magic circle will have 2 strands coming from it - see pictures for example. 1. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 16 sc down then slst into same st you chained from [17] 2: ch 16, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 14 sc down, slst into next st of the magic circle [15] 3. ch 9, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 7 sc down then slst into same st you chained from [8] 4. ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 6 sc down, slst into next st of the magic circle [7] 5. ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 6 sc down then slst into same st you chained from [7] 6. ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 6 sc down, slst into next st of the magic circle [7] 7 & 8. repeat step 5 & 6 9. ch 9, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 7 sc down then slst into same st you chained from [8]

Step 1 Ex. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch

Step 1 Ex. slst into same st you chained from

Step 2 Ex. slst into the next st of mc (2 strands in each st)

18

Hair

Continued...

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10. ch 16, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 14 sc down, slst into next st of the magic circle [15] 11. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 16 sc down then slst into same st you chained from [17] 12. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 16 sc down, slst into next st of the magic circle [17] 13 & 14. repeat step 11 & 12 15 & 16. repeat step 11 & 12 17 & 18. repeat step 11 & 12 19 & 20. repeat step 11 & 12 21 & 22. repeat step 11 & 12 23 & 24. repeat step 11 & 12 25 & 26. repeat step 11 & 12 27 & 28. repeat step 11 & 12 29 & 30. repeat step 11 & 12 31. repeat step 11 32. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 16 sc down, slst into beginning st and F/O and weave in ends - you do not need a long tail for sewing since we will be gluing the hair down Continue onto the Top Layer section...

Your hair should look like this once you are finished with the Bottom Layer. Now time to work on the Top Layer!!!

19

Hair

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Continued...

Top Layer

TIP: You will be joining and crocheting from the inner part of the magic circle that we made earlier from increasing in the BLO (see pics - there should be 8 BLs), there will be 2 strands coming from each BL st just like the bottom layer. 1. join with Soft Fudge yarn and ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 16 sts down, slst into the same st of You will join at the red arrow the inner magic circle to create the next strand [17] 2. ch 16, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 14 sts down, slst into the next st of the inner magic circle [15] TIP: You should have 2 strands coming from one back loop st! 3. ch 9, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 7 sts down, slst into the same st of the inner magic circle to create the next strand [8] Step 1 Ex. - Join with Soft Fudge yarn 4. ch 8, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 6 sts down, slst into the next st of the inner magic circle [7] 5. ch 8, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 6 sts down, slst into the same st of the inner magic circle to create the next strand [7] 6. ch 9, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 7 sts down, slst into the next st of the inner magic circle [8] Pictures and instructions continued onto the next page!

Step 1 Ex. - slst into the same st of inner mc 20

Hair

Continued...

7. ch 16, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 14 sts down, slst into the same st of the inner magic circle to create the next strand [15] 8. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 16 sts down, slst into the next st of the inner magic circle [17] 9. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 16 sts down, slst into the same st of the inner magic circle to create the next strand [17] 10. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 16 sts down, slst into the next st of the inner magic circle [17] 11 & 12. Repeat step 9 & 10 13 & 14. Repeat step 9 &10 15. Repeat step 9 16. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and sc 16 sts down, slst into the 1st st of the inner magic circle [17] F/O and weave in ends

Hair Assembly

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Step 2 Ex. slst into next st of the inner mc

This is what your hair should look like completed!

After you pin the bottom layer of the hair down unpin one strand at a time, glue and repeat! Be sure to use a glue that is permanent and washable like FabriTac not tacky glue! You may have some overlap on the back of the hair which is fine. After the bottom layer has been glued down and dried, pin down the top layer of the hair and then unpin one strand at a time, glue and repeat! Make sure not to glue hair down too low on the face, pay attention to where I put my sewing pins for where to stop applying glue at (typically eye level). This is so the hair doesn’t seem too “stiff”. Instructional photos on the next page...

21

Hair Assembly

Continued...

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Pin the bottom layer of hair to the head

Unpin and glue each strand of the bottom layer to the head

Now pin the top layer down and glue!

Pictures continued onto the next page! 22

Hair Assembly

Continued...

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Your hair should look like this once you have finished gluing the hair to the head!

Blushes This is completely optional but I like to use my prismacolor nupastel 286-P for blush (I use a paintbrush to help smooth it out after I put it on), but you may use blush, eye shadow, fabric marker, felt, or whatever you prefer to use for blush!

23

Ears

Make 2

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Use 2.00mm hook and Pure Black yarn

R1: magic circle [4] R2: sc around [4] R3: inc around [8] R4: sc around [8] R5: (sc 1, inc)* [12] R6: sc around [12] F/O and leave tail for sewing to the head, repeat for the 2nd ear. Once both ears are made, pin the ears to the head and sew. Ear placement is important if you’re making the Witch hat because there will be “holes” for the ears, the hat stretches pretty well but use the reference the pictures below for help!

24

Tail

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Use 2.00mm hook and Pure Black yarn

R1: magic circle [5] R2-25: sc around [5] (24 rnds) F/O and leave tail for sewing, pin to body above the underwear line and sew, see pictures below for reference.

Accessories

Collar

Use 2.00mm hook and Pure Black yarn

TIP: I use a 2.5” size bell for an 11” doll. The bell IS a choking hazard for small children so keep that in mind if this doll is being made for a small child.You may need to adjust the size of the bell depending on the size of your doll. You can always just use the collar without the bell or crochet a bell if you wish to avoid the choking hazard. 1. leave a tail when starting chain, ch 10, F/O, leave a tail (so you have a tail on both ends) and push the first chain you made so that it becomes a knot leaving 9 sts. 2. Thread your bell with either yarn or heavy duty sewing thread and sew to the middle of the collar. Knot off and weave in ends. 3. Tie the collar onto your doll’s neck and knot off both ends of the tails and trim the length of the tails. Pictures on the next page... 25

Collar

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Continued...

Step 1 Ex. Completed

Step 2. Thread bell

Step 3 Ex. tie onto doll’s neck and trim ends and knot off the bottom of each tail

Step 2. Sew bell to collar

Completed Collar

Witch Hat Use 2.00mm hook and Coffee Bean yarn

R1: magic circle [4] R2: (sc 1, inc)* [6] R3: (sc 2, inc)* [8] R4: (sc 3, inc)* [10] R5: (sc 4, inc)* [12] R6: (sc 5, inc)* [14] R7: (sc 6, inc)* [16] R8: (sc 7, inc)* [18] R9: (sc 8, inc)* [20] R10: (sc 9, inc)* [22]

R11: (sc 10, inc)* [24] R12: (sc 11, inc)* [26] R13: (sc 12, inc)* [28] R14: (sc 13. inc)* [30] R15: (sc 14, inc)* [32] R16: (sc 15, inc)* [34] R17: (sc 16, inc)* [36] R18: (sc 17, inc)* [38] R19. (sc 18, inc)* [40] Instructions and photos continued onto the next page...

26

Witch Hat

Continued...

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TIP: On the next round we will start leaving openings (skipping sts) for the ears. If you are making this hat and do not want the ear holes all you need to do is not F/O and continue single crocheting over the parts I would have you normally skip, this will add 4 sts to the end of the round count. Also do not count the ch 1’s you will be making in this pattern! Also as you F/O a lot there will be a lot of strings, I typically knot them together and either weave in ends or you can cheat and trim them and glue them into the inside of the hat never to be seen! R20: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from (the chain 1 does not count), sc 15 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 19 sts [36]

R20 Ex. F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into same st as ch 1. You will continue to do this to make the ear holes until the end of R25. R21: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 7 sts, inc, sc 8 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, inc, sc 8 sts, inc, sc 8 sts, inc [40] R22: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 16 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 22 sts [40] R23: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 8 sts, inc, sc 7 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 1 st, inc, sc 9 sts, inc, sc 9 sts, inc [44] R24: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 17 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 25 sts [44] R25: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, sc 2 sts, inc, sc 3 sts, inc, sc 3 sts, inc, sc 3 sts, inc, sc 2 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, inc, (sc 3, inc)* repeat 6x until the end of the rnd [55] Do not F/O 27

Witch Hat

Continued...

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R26. ch 2 & sk 2 sts, sc 23, ch 2 & sk 2 sts, sc 32 [59]

R26 Ex. ch 2 and sk 2 sts - this is to close the hole for the cat ear, continue onto R27... R27: sc around [59] R28: (FLO) sc around [59] R29: inc around [118] R30-34: sc around [118] (5 rnds) Clean F/O and weave in ends, now it is time to make the orange band!

Hat Band & Hat Assembly ch 52, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch [49] F/O, either leave tail for sewing to the hat or weave in ends if gluing! You can also glue the ends up under the band if you feel like “cheating”.

Completed Hat!

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Getting Dressed Tips

Pull the legs through the shirt

Pull the shirt up the body

Make sure to pull her tail through the tail hole

Pinch the hand and work her arm through the 1st sleeve

Pull the arm through the 2nd sleeve, don’t forget to reshape the hands once finished

Fold her shirt up

Pinch the feet and pull through the shorts, you may have to wiggle the shorts on if they are a little tight and don’t forget to reshape the feet after the shorts are on! Tie the ribbons on each side of the shorts.

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Getting Dressed Tips

Fold her shirt down

Continued...

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Pinch the foot, wiggle and pull her boot on. After the boot is on I typically reshape the foot and repeat for the next boot.

Put her hat on and pull her ears through the ear holes we made.

Jinx is dressed and ready to trick or treat!

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Congratulations!

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You can now breathe a sigh of relief - you are finished! I hope you enjoyed making Jinx as much as I enjoyed creating her!!! Watch for my next pattern soon and I’ll be updating instagram with upcoming pattern spoilers! Also send me photos of your final creations I love seeing what you guys create :) 31