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GOODBYE WINTER – IT’S TIME TO SHINE! INSPIRING PROJECTS for Creative Crocheters

ISSUE 110

insidecrocheT.co.uk

TWO SKEIN PROJECT

Spread a little love!

19 MUST-MAKE PATTERNS

SPRINGTIME SHAWL Hand-dyed statement piece

Rainbow Brights

DEDRI UYS PATTERN

TAPESTRY CLUTCH Bold peacock design

Happy makes to say “hello” to spring!

SEA GLASS MITTS

CUTE POPCORN STITCHES

Quick to hook project

COLOUR & TEXTURE

THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT Join this pretty crochet journey

CORNER TO CORNER CROCHET

ROLL UP, ROLL UP! Emma Varnam's circus throw

WRAPPED IN COLOUR! Hook Laura Strutt’s stunning circular blanket

TASSEL EARRINGS ❤ COASTER SET ❤ SUNSET CUSHION ❤ FOLKLORE CAL

Watch our NEW video r

Discover ou kaleidoscope of

FREE patterns!

Explore a world of colour exclusively at LoveCrochet.com/paintbox Best Price Guarantee

FREE delivery on orders over £25

10,000+ FREE patterns!

Trusted by thousands of crocheters

PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH Subscription enquiries t. +44 (0)1202 586848 [email protected]

Meet the team Commissioning Editor Kath Webber [email protected] Managing Editor Sarah Moran [email protected] Styling & Photoshoot Editor Kath Webber Technical Editors Jane Czaja, Rachel Vowles Art Editor Stephanie Peat [email protected] Pattern Editor Rhian Drinkwater Sub Editor Vicky Guerrero Online Marketing Executive Adrian Lito [email protected] Contributors Kela Ahnhem, Theodora Burrow, Jane Czaja, Rhian Drinkwater, Vicky Guerrero, Lindsey Harrad, Sarah-Jane Hicks, Fran Morgan, Irina Palczynski, Helda Panagary, Emily Platt, Alessandra Poggiagliolmi, Sue Rawlinson, Sarah Shrimpton, Irene Strange, Laura Strutt, Eleonora Tully, Dedri Uys, Emma Varnam, Cassie Ward, Kath Webber Models Antonia Kozerovskaya, Yasmin Ryan Photography Leanne Jade Photography, Kirsten Mavric, Emma Mitchell Hair and make-up Nicki Henbrey Ad Production Leila Schmitz Main cover image Leanne Jade Photography Small cover images Leanne Jade Photography, Kirsten Mavric

Publishing Publisher Tim Harris Group Advertising Manager Jennie Ayres [email protected] Advertising Manager Sophie Bunch [email protected] t. +44 (0)7798 526070 Circulation Manager Tim Harris Production Manager John Beare IT Manager Vince Jones Subscriptions Manager Chris Wigg (See page 54 for subscription details) Published by Tailor Made Publishing Ltd PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH t. +44 (0)1202 586848 Printed by Precision Colour Printing Haldane, Halesfield 1 Telford, Shropshire TF7 4QQ t. +44 (0)1952 585585

Welcome When I first learned to crochet almost ten years ago, one of the first things I discovered was that a whole world of colour had opened up to me. The day after learning how to hook up a granny square my friend took me to a yarn shop and I couldn’t wait to get my hands on all the different shades – it was overwhelming! I instead chose a palette of soft blues and cream, unable to pick from the bright shades, but my appetite for colour soon grew and once I discovered a certain blog written from an attic in Yorkshire I was hooked (pardon the pun) on colour! This issue celebrates colour in all its multi-hued glory, from neon pops to cut through the winter gloom to soft vintage shades to adorn the cosiest bed or armchair. A homage to the artist Josef Albers appears in the form of Helda Panagary’s beautiful blanket, and a gloriously ’70s nod to colour is offset by soft ecru in Fran Morgan’s stunning Canal Barge Jumper, while the warm shades of Jane Czaja’s Sunset Sampler Cushion conjure up images of warmer climes and sunny days. Or, if like me you love a classic granny square, then the Kaleidoscope cardigan by Cassie Ward is a fabulous stashbuster project framed by ever-chic black. This fabulous colour issue is also the last chance to catch up with our brilliant columnist Dedri Uys, whose explorations in colour and stitch have delighted us for two years. For her final column she reflects on the crochet skills she loves the best and tackles tapestry crochet with a beautifully bright project that’s ideal for colourwork newbies. Next month we welcome a brand new columnist in the shape of Matt Farci, aka A Boy & Bunting, and I’m sure you’ll join me in wishing Dedri all the best in her future creative endeavours! Now go forth and bust that stash – it’s time to celebrate COLOUR!

©Tailor Made Publishing Ltd 2019 All rights reserved. No part of this magazine, or digital versions of the magazine, may be used, reproduced, copied or resold without written permission of the publisher. All information and prices, as far as we are aware, are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Unsolicited artwork, manuscripts or designs are accepted on the understanding that Tailor Made Publishing Ltd incur no liability for their storage or return. Free gifts are available only with print editions, not with digital editions of the magazines. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.

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68

CONTENTS ISSUE 110 Win VIP tickets to the Spring Knitting & Stitching Show in London! PAGE 6

62

Amanda Perkins reveals the story behind her fantastic new book! PAGE 98

PLUS Stitch Dedri Uys’ beautiful tapestry crochet clutch See page 14

NEWS & REVIEWS

FEATURES

06 IN THE LOOP

14 HEARTH & HOME

Fun dates for your diary with the Spring Knitting & Stitching Show and Edinburgh Yarn Festival, plus cosy, colourful makes and meet fab amigurumi designer Erinna Lee.

In her last column Dedri Uys encourages us to keep learning and challenging ourselves, as she does with her tapestry crochet clutch.

18 SPRING EDIT 11 OFF THE HOOK Chase off any lingering winter blues with notice-me brights and blissful shades.

Look forward to spring with our pick of highstreet fashion reflecting the season’s key trends. Find traditional crafts, feminine detailing, neutrals and clashing colours!

12 BOOK REVIEWS Immerse yourself into stunning corner to corner crochet, create beautiful baby blankets, plus hook up cosy sea life tail blankets and fun crocheted cactuses!

72 THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT We share part one of a stunningly detailed blanket CAL by SistersInStitch, run in collaboration with Yarn and Colors.

04 Inside Crochet

20 FOLKLORE BLANKET CAL In the penultimate instalment of Sarah Shrimpton’s gorgeous blanket CAL, we start piecing together the colourful squares.

98 FINAL THOUGHT We chat with Amanda Perkins about glorious colour, her grandson Bert and her new book, plus life on the Exmoor coast.

11

Introducing The Butterfly Effect, a delicate square from SistersInStitch. PAGE 72

Make it

Patterns in this issue

40 Neon Pop Chevron Top

44 Kaleidoscope 48 Canal Barge Cardigan Jumper

52 Iced Gem Shawl

56 Square Earrings

58 Rainbow Mandala

62 Harlequin Shawl

65 Circus Blanket

68 Happy Heart Garland Set

78 100s & 1000s Shawl

80 Sunset Cushion

82 Josef Blanket

86 Cafetière Set

08 57 Sea Wrist Warmers

07 09

86

REGULARS 54 SUBSCRIPTIONS Save money every month and never have to worry about missing an issue of Inside Crochet again!

60 NEXT ISSUE Get your hands on our gorgeous textured makes next month.

84 BACK ISSUES Pick up that must-hook pattern here.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY It’s the ideal treat for you or a friend – every issue of Inside Crochet delivered direct to your door! Turn to page 54 for details

88 YARN MARKET Looking for lovely new yarn and crochet accessories? Check out our great selection of independent shops.

89 HOW TO CROCHET Don’t know where to start? Turn here for our expert guide to crochet.

72

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 05

News etc

IN THE LOOP BLOGS | BOOKS | REVIEWS | EVENTS | INTERVIEWS

B LOS S OM B ON A N ZA ➻ Mindfully hook a handful of soft granny squares in pretty colours and watch the pile grow. Then transform them into a bright lap blanket with this beautiful Yarn and Colors Blossom Blanket kit. The fresh springtime palette is just the thing for overcast evenings – you’ll need 35 granny squares in Yarn and Colors Epic cotton to make this lovely throw. Use it to cheer up a sofa, or gift to someone special to lift their spirits. Approx £48, www.yarnandcolors.com

TURN TO PAGE 88 FOR MORE GREAT INDEPENDENT YARN SHOPS!

[C RA F TS S H OW ]

SPRING KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW! ➻ Revel in a colourful world of crafts at the Spring Knitting and Stitching Show at Olympia, London, from 28 February to 3 March. The show is jam-packed with 200 exciting stalls to explore, so you can shop to your heart’s content and boost your yarn stash. Or why not try a new craft at one of the 190 expert-led textile workshops? Have fun with fabric lino printing and needle felting, or learn new recycling life skills – crochet a bowl from old t-shirts, reuse fabric to make a mini quilt or start dressmaking. Plus, enjoy textile exhibitions, drop-in crochet and knitting lessons, a bag for life competition, the stunning Enchanted Wood – a scene of knitted and crocheted magical creatures – plus a new Sip & Stitch Bar to combine stitching with a glass of Prosecco! www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com/spring

[ S H O P S W E LOV E ]

Avicraft Wool ➻ Sharon Newman opened Avicraft Wool in Bromley, Kent, in 2005. She stocks Sirdar, James Brett, Woolcraft, Rico, Adriafil and King Cole. “Avicraft Wool is a small family business and people come to us for our friendliness and ability to find a suitable yarn for almost any pattern!” says Sharon. Avicraft Wool runs two monthly social clubs, plus classes in crochet, Tunisian crochet and knitting. Find Sharon on Facebook as avicraftwoolbromley. www.avicraftwool.com

06 Inside Crochet

WIN! The lovely folk behind the show are offering one lucky reader a pair of VIP tickets, worth £30 each! You’ll get entry to the show on one day of your choice, a free gift, seating in the VIP area, use of the VIP cloakroom, a show guide, £1 off workshops, and discounts from selected exhibitors. Head to www.insidecrochet. co.uk/competitions for your chance to win. Closing date 20 February 2019. Readers are also offered a discount of £2 off advance adult tickets and £1 off advance concessions. Tickets will be £12 instead of £14/£13, plus £1.75 fee per transaction. Use discount code IC2019 when you book online or call 0844 581 1319. Offer expires 27 February 2019.

➻

IN THE LOOP

News etc

DIARY ✽ 22–24 FEBRUARY 2019

UNRAVEL

Don’t Miss!

Now in its 11th year, this exciting knitting and crochet festival hosts a marketplace with over 70 exhibitors selling beautiful artisan yarn and musthave crochet, knitting and spinning notions. Book onto a workshop and catch talks and demonstrations. Friday 11am–5pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 10am–4pm. £8 advance, £10 on the door. http://craft.farnhammaltings.com

✽ 27–28 APRIL

WONDERWOOL WALES

[ YA R N F E S T I VA L ]

Edinburgh Yarn Festival ➻ Whether you live near Edinburgh or would simply love a holiday in this tremendous city, why not time a trip for the Edinburgh Yarn Festival on 21–23 March? This exciting handknitting and yarn show takes place at Edinburgh’s Corn Exchange, where you’ll find around 100 fantastic exhibitors. With a firm focus on this being a social event (you are in Scotland after all!), there will be lots of space to sit down and crochet, make new friends and catch up with old ones, plus plenty to eat and drink. If you fancy a fun night out, don’t miss the party on Friday night, plus there’s a Big Knit Night on Thursday, and a Sunday fringe event too. www.edinyarnfest.com

See us there!

A unmissable date for fibre fans, craft-lovers and makers, this vibrant show returns to the Royal Welsh Showground, Builth Wells. Stock up on irresistible wool and natural fibre products from over 200 exhibitors plus book hands-on workshops (including a beaded crochet masterclass led by Jane Crowfoot). 10am–5.30pm Saturday, 10am–4.30pm Sunday. Day tickets £10. www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk

✽ 11–13 APRIL

CRAFT 4 CRAFTERS SHOW Head to the Bath & West Showground in Somerset for this fantastic crafting show including textile displays, demonstrations, lectures and heaps of craft businesses selling crafting supplies. Book a workshop and create bunting, a covered notebook, a needlefelted bird brooch and more. 10am–5pm. www.craft4crafters.co.uk

W E LOVE …

✽ 1 JUNE

This whimsical wooden pin badge designed by Sharon of My Crochet Makes, with an adorable llama – perfect for any magical maker! Also find cute badges for yarn addicts and stash queens.

This festival at the Leeds Industrial Museum has a lively market offering a range of goods from local traders, workshops and activities, demonstrations of special techniques, tips from professional speakers and children’s crafting activities. www.facebook.com/armleymills

LEEDS WOOL FESTIVAL

£6.90, www.mycrochetmakes.etsy.com

WORKSHOPS ✽ SATURDAY 6 APRIL

[ N E W PAT T E R N ]

Sunshine stitches ➻ Put a rocket up a dreary day with Mrs Moon’s cheerful Winter Sun scarf, shown here in Karen and Susan’s new bright pink Bubblegum shade mixed with zingy Lemon Curd. This scarf is made from three skeins of luxurious snuggly Plump Superchunky (in a soft superfine Merino and baby alpaca mix), plus a skein of each colour for those fab supersized multi-coloured pompoms. Great to entice a newbie into crocheting, this scarf is also super fast to complete. Love the Jumbo Hat too? It’s knitted in Podgy Bubblegum and is a fun accompaniment. Winter Sun pattern £3, Plump Superchunky £16.75/100g, www.mrsmoon.co.uk

CROCHET TRIM WORKSHOP Add a vintage feel to your home by learning to make beautiful crochet trims to edge towels and bedding. Sophia Reed shows you how to prepare the fabric and use a fine hook. Yarn, spotty print tea towel, refreshments and buffet lunch provided. £54.95, 10am–4pm. www.blacksheepwools.com

✽ SATURDAY 5 OCTOBER

MENDING WORKSHOP London-based artist Celia Pym explores textile repair on wool and knitted textiles, how you do it and why you do it. It considers the tenderness and care of mending. Bring any damaged wool items that you would like to discuss repair options for. Darning materials will be provided. £95, 10.30am–4.30pm. www.loopknittingshop.com

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 07

[CAREERS]

CROCH E T EN TR EPR EN EU R S Amigurumi designer Erinna Lee, aka Little Aqua Girl, talks golf, ballet and cancer research. @littleaquagirl

[ F R E E PAT T E R N ]

Woodland trio ➻ If, like us, you’ve got a jigsaw of to-do lists, photos and receipts pinned to your fridge, you’ll love these super-cute crochet animal magnets from Pony McTate. The patterns are free on her blog, along with photo tutorials if you need a hand with any techniques. The set comprises a rabbit and mouse sporting jaunty scarves, and a fox in a spotty bow tie. When you think about it, your fridge is the perfect place to display some woolly pieces! We reckon they’d make a fun trophy collection for the wall too, or how about sending one as a sweet “hello you” gift to a friend? www.ponymctate.com

ON E S CO OP OR T W O? ➻ Just the name makes our mouth water – Silk Sorbet is an exquisite new lace scarf designed by Valerie Bracegirdle, hooked in beautifully soft and lustrous Willow Knits 4ply silk yarns. If you love working lace patterns or are keen to start, Willow Knits owner Anne Scahill assures us the kit “is an easy make that looks complicated!” So, choose from four scrumptious colourways: Charcoal and Tea Rose, Charcoal and Silver, Duck Egg and Peridot, or Claret and Caramel (shown) – and you’ll soon have a special new accessory to show off! £12.16, www.willowknits.etsy.com 08 Inside Crochet

Erinna was born in Singapore and has been living in Australia for the past 20 years. She is a real animal lover: “I used to have three dogs when I was living in Singapore. However, since coming to Melbourne I haven’t kept any pets as I find it really heartbreaking when I have to travel and leave them behind.” Erinna first learnt about amigurumi on the golf course. “A playing partner had an amigurumi giraffe golf club headcover and from there, I slowly learned about amigurumi. In mid 2014, with the help of books, online videos and blogs, I learned how to crochet.” Crafting runs in the family, as Erinna’s mum also crochets. “We both learned amigurumi at the same time, although mum has always been a wizard with the sewing machine and knitting too.” Erinna runs two Etsy shops with her mum – The Little Hook Crochet, selling her own amigurumi patterns, and Bubbles And Bongo, selling her mum’s cuddly crochet dolls. When she’s not crocheting, Erinna is a scientist focused on cancer research and the development of new drugs to combat the disease. “I have been doing this for almost 15 years. It is an extremely satisfying though challenging career. I consider myself very fortunate to have a job where I make contributions to uncovering the mysteries of life and in so doing, potentially help people suffering from cancer feel better.”

Before that, she trained as a ballet dancer. “After finishing high school in Singapore, I moved to London to take a classical ballet course at the Central School of Ballet. A year later, I transferred to the Australian Ballet School where I obtained my qualifications to teach classical ballet.” It was at this point that her interest in science began. “I enrolled at the University of Melbourne in a Bachelor of Science. During my second year, I encountered biochemistry and loved learning about how life works. This led me to complete a PhD and my current path. Although I don’t dance today, I still love watching ballet and enjoy listening to ballet music while I crochet.” Of her love for amigurumi, Erinna explains: “I’ve always loved cartoons, illustrations and animation but I am a hopeless artist. Amigurumi provided the perfect outlet for me to create the characters I see in my head. I also like using a somewhat mathematical approach to creating the shapes.” Erinna says she still feels nervous when she makes her patterns available. “I appreciate it so much when someone leaves encouraging feedback. I do put a lot of heart into creating each character and I just hope that others will like the end product when they make it!” Erinna is inspired by so many fellow crochet lovers, “especially through Instagram which is the main social media platform I use. Both mum and I have

➻

IN THE LOOP

[CHARITY PROJECT]

Crocheters unite

received wonderful support from many amigurumists (including Stephanie of @allaboutami, Funda of @kikalite, Alison of @kornflake_stew amongst many others). Their promotion of my designs and their advice have been invaluable in helping us build our profiles.” Another of her main sources of support is Joke Vermeiren and her team at AmigurumiPatterns. “Joke has been extremely supportive of my design career and has given me many opportunities to present my designs through various publications.” How does Erinna conjure up ideas for her characters? “I draw inspiration from nature, animals, everyday activities, cartoons, people, my imagination! I am a huge fan of children’s illustrations and I love going onto Pinterest. I adore kawaii culture and draw inspiration from cute Japanese cartoon characters, as well as their design aesthetic.” Some of Erinna’s most popular designs vary from a unicorn and Boston Terrier to a mouse and flamingo! “I wish I knew the secret recipe to what makes a design popular!” Erinna adds that she finds juggling her job as a scientist with crafting challenging. “It sounds a cliché but I do wish there were more hours in a day. All of my crochet is done primarily at night and on weekends. However, I am not complaining. Crochet is relaxing

and creating new patterns always excites me. So the rewards outweigh the efforts. One of my biggest wishes is that I had enough time to be more proactive on social media and could thank every person who likes, tags, provides feedback or comments on my Instagram/Etsy shop or who recreates one of my patterns. Without them, I wouldn’t be where I am today.” What else does Erinna love about running her own craft business? “There is no word to describe the sense of satisfaction one gets from seeing another person not only want to make your pattern but who finds great joy in the finished product. The thrill I get from this will never tire. I am also grateful that I am able to pursue this venture with my mum.” So what’s in the pipeline for Erinna? “I am currently working on a book of my designs with AmigurumiPatterns, which is due for release in late 2019. It has always been a huge dream of mine to publish a book and while nervous about how the book will be received, I am so excited. I am also exploring new craft business ideas such as releasing pattern kits, selling crochet supplies such as yarn and hooks, and launching a blog. Oh… and hoping to get a breakthrough with finding new treatment options for cancer patients.”

➻ Looking to put your humble hook to another good cause this winter? Take a look at Woolly Hugs – this brilliant charity runs lots of projects, such as making bright and cosy blankets (snugs) for looked-after children and young people in the Midlands region. Cute cuddly toys to comfort children in Belarus are another need, plus the charity works with the amazing Knit for Peace to get warm gloves, hats and blankets to refugees in Kurdistan and Syria. To get involved, find details on the website. www.woollyhugs.org

Congratulations to Susanne Terheggen who made Emily Ashbourn of Make.E’s wallhanging from issue 105. Susanne wins a 12-month digital subscription! To be in with a chance of winning, share your recent makes from the magazine on Instagram using the hashtag #myinsidecrochet and tag us @insidecrochet

@knotsosquare

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 09

YARN SHOP Stockists of Scheepjes, Stylecraft, WYS, Cygnet Yarns, James C Brett, Knit Pro, accessories and more 10% off everything use code IC110 www.artisanalleyuk.com E: [email protected] T: 0333 050 1228

First Floor, Shaw House, Shawclough Road, Rochdale OL12 6ND

➻

IN THE LOOP

Off the hook

We Love

Bowled over

You’re cherrific!

Wing it

£14

£70

£10

Today’s lunch: a creamy pasta dish sprinkled with Parmesan, served in a charming bowl handpainted in Portugal. www.dassieartisan.com

Feel happy, be happy in this gorgeous pink sweater with the cutest kawaii style cherry design. Guaranteed to bring smiles! www.cathkidston.com

We’re big fans of Matt Sewell’s cute illustrations of our feathered friends – these colourful coasters will pep up any table. www.beaumonde.co.uk

COLOUR POP! Let’s bring a splash of colour into our lives with these bright and cheerful ideas.

Tropical queen

Must dash

£60

£28

Shake it up with this stunning, fresh ’n’ fruity scarf – wear it or display it. www.jacquelinecolley.co.uk

A fun dash print and fluffy pom pom makes this beanie a winner! www.misspompom.com

Inspired? Joyful curation From £39 Jazz up a corner of the room with an array of pretty woven baskets filled with plants. www.thebasketroom.com

Pastel rainbow

Hook Emily Platt’s jumper in a colour of your choice from issue 109.

£5.50 To order back issues turn to page 84

Fill these pretty little bamboo bowls with anything: fruit, nibbles, drinks, trinkets. www.lunaandcurious.com

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 11

BOOKS

W E ARE A LS O R E A D I N G... Crocheted Cactuses

WE REVIEW NEW AND EXCITING RELEASES

Sarah Abbondio • Search Press, £6.99 US and UK terminology

➻ Brighten your home with the easiest of easy-care plants – these fun crocheted cactuses! Each simple design begins with a crocheted “soil base” that supports the cactus and fits inside a plant pot, so they’re easy to finish and display, and there’s a range of varieties to choose from. Use different yarns to create different effects, as well as techniques such as raised stitches to make ridges, popcorns for a textured finish, beads for spots, alpaca yarns for fluffy sections and more.

Tails Of The Sea Christine Naugle • Annie’s Crochet, £8.99 US terminology Crochet

➻ Why have just a plain blanket draped over your legs when you can have one of these amazing sea life tail blankets?! Created using rows of V-stitches, 4 these clever designs use bright and variegated yarn to make fun throws that will have the younger members of your household clamouring for whose turn it is to cuddle up underneath them! The book contains four designs: a mermaid, seahorse, shark and octopus, and the colourwork is both written out and charted. CROCHET

Tails OF THE

children’s crochet blankets

TM

TA I LS OF T H E SE A : CH I L DR E N ’S CROCH ET BL A N K ETS

CHRISTINE NAUGLE

Annie’s

Corner To Corner Crochet Jess Coppom SewandSo, £15.99 • UK terminology ➻ Corner to corner crochet has taken the yarn world by storm over the last few years (turn to page 65 for Emma Varnam’s stunning blanket) and whether you’re a beginner to the technique or a seasoned corner crocheter, this book is sure to have something for you. Corner to corner crochet is a wonderful way to create pixel style designs in yarn, but like any colourwork it comes with its own challenges, and Jess tackles these from the beginning, giving advice on reading charts and managing bobbins of yarn. There’s a thorough introduction to the technique, and all patterns are categorised by difficulty level. Clear colour photographs explain increasing, decreasing and colour changes. Once you’re confident it’s time to start hooking, and the book contains 15 inventive and addictive designs. There’s a range of styles, from the geometric Inverse Throw in bold black and white or Scandinavian Ski Lodge Pillow, to the pixel pictures of the Midtown Stroll Baby Blanket (a dramatic city skyline in neutral shades) or quirky Down Shift Bicycle Pillow – an ideal gift for any cycling fan in the family! There’s a great combination of project types too, from traditional blankets to hats and cowls, ponchos, a cosy scarf that uses colour-changing yarns to maximum effect and a fun heart design washcloth. We can’t wait to get started! 12 Inside Crochet

fun blankets

made using worsted-weight yarn.

871735

Bert’s Crochet Baby Blankets Amanda Perkins • KDP, £11.99 UK and US terminology

➻ We’re huge fans here of Amanda’s stunning designs and eye for colour, so a new collection of blanket patterns is a real treat! This kaleidoscopic book was inspired by Amanda’s first grandchild, and is packed with cheery designs to stimulate young minds. The designs are motif based, and range from the vibrant Pixie Dust (circles within squares) to the more subtle Cornucopia. The fun Lollipop Trees, made of circles combined with stalks, is a real standout, while the triangle motif ZigZag blanket is stunning. Find an interview with Amanda on page 98.

HEARTH & HOME

In association with

Dedri Uys

EMBRACE THE NEW In this, her last column, Dedri encourages us to keep learning and challenging ourselves, as with her first tapestry crochet design. It is a sad fact that the beginning of one adventure often means the end of another. I have been writing this column for two years now (where has the time gone?) and I have enjoyed every single moment of it. There is something extremely comforting about having a little corner of the world dedicated solely to sentimental ramblings about yarn and crochet. I have loved the challenge of thinking up new and colourful patterns each month, and I have found such satisfaction in sharing my journey with you. A new year, however, brings with it new things, so as I write this last column for Inside Crochet, I thought we could chat about embracing the unknown! I would love to think that I know everything there is to know about crochet, but that isn’t the case at all. One of the reasons I love teaching workshops is that I invariably end up learning something new. Sometimes it is as simple as a trick for better beaded crochet. Sometimes it is as complex as how to create the perfect bullion stitch – I’m still not too sure about that one! Of course, it is comfortable and safe to keep making the same stitches and patterns we have always made, and there is no shame in enjoying the mindfulness of creating without the stress of learning. But if we always do the things we have always done, we miss out on so much! Two of my favourite stitches are raised back stitches and the crab stitch (reverse dc). When I first started using them, I hated making them. I

couldn’t imagine using them voluntarily. Now I include them in almost everything I design and love both the look of them and the making of them. What was once “daunting” has become safe through familiarity. When I was deciding what to design for this last column, I sat down with a nice cup of tea and made a list of all the techniques I have never used in designs but have always wanted to. It wasn’t a very long list as I tend to be quite adventurous. What remained was: slip stitch crochet, third loop crochet, broomstick lace, Irish lace, and tapestry crochet. I decided to tackle tapestry crochet. I have to say that it was a bit of a steep learning curve! How do you minimise the inevitable and quite steep right-ward creep of the design? Can you do it in a spiral (I couldn’t figure out how)? How tight does the resulting item need to be in order to be neat? Needless to say, there was a lot of stopping and starting, with endless referrals to tutorials along the way. I am very happy with how my first attempt at a tapestry crochet design turned out, and I am pleased as punch that I could end this journey with you by learning a new technique. From next month, Matt from A Boy & Bunting (w w w .boy andbunting.com ) will be taking my place. He is engaging, funny, humble, and so talented. I cannot wait to see what he shares with us. May crochet always bring you joy and healing.

“When I first started working raised stitches and crab stitch, I couldn't imagine using them voluntarily. Now I include them in almost everything I design!” Dedri Uys is a crochet designer and blogger. Find her online at www.lookatwhatimade.net and on Instagram and Ravelry as BarbertonDaisy.

14 Inside Crochet

New Beginnings Clutch MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Cahlista, 100% cotton, 15g/25.5m/28yds (available in pack of 109 15g balls, or alternatively as individual 50g balls) Yarn A: Ruby 517 x 1 ball Yarn B: Tulip 222 x 1 ball Yarn C: Saffron 249 x 1 ball Yarn D: Lemon 280 x 1 ball Yarn E: Parrot Green 241 x 1 ball Yarn F: Dark Teal 401 x 1 ball Yarn G: Cyan 397 x 1 ball Yarn H: Cornflower 511 x 1 ball

Yarn I: Delphinium 113 x 1 ball Yarn J: Garden Rose 251 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook ● Zip, 20cm/8in long ● Needle ● Cotton thread

TENSION Work 22dc blo and 16 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS Finished purse is 18 x 15cm/ 7 x 6in.

PATTERN NOTES Change colour on the last yoh of the last st before the colour change. Work over non-working yarn so it is not visible from the reverse. When colour is no longer needed, cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

along underside of ch in rem two loops of each ch, 39dc, join to blo of first dc with sl st – 80 dc. Rnd 2: Changing colours as indicated in chart, 1ch (does not count as st throughout), 80dc blo, join to blo of first dc with sl st – 80dc. Rnds 3–23: As Rnd 2. Rnd 24: As Rnd 2– 80dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

CLUTCH With yarn A, make 41ch. Rnd 1: Working in top loop of ch only, 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 38ch, 2dc in last ch, turn to work START

ATTACH ZIP Using sewing needle and matching thread, sew zip to inside of second to last round of bag.

END

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 15

HEARTH & HOME

16 Inside Crochet

Row 1

4g lef t 5g lef t 11g lef t 10g lef t 9g lef t 7g lef t

23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

517 222 249 280 241 401

Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row

Row 24

Key Yarn A Yarn B Yarn C Yarn D Yarn E Yarn F

NEW!

FURNACE COWL Designed by Am anda Beaumont

NEW! Furnace Cow l, featuring Scheepjes Merino Soft yarn. Available now as an After Par ty printed pattern booklet or digital down load *. *Printed booklets available from Scheepjes suppliers. Digital versions are available to download via Ravelry. RRP €1/£1.

600 602 Malevich Raphaël

639 Monet

637 Seurat

619 Gaugin

620 Munch

627 Manet

631 Millais

606 Da Vinci

647 Titian

633 Bennett

632 Degas

635 Matisse

636 642 634 Carney Caravaggio Copley

621 Picasso

623 Rothko

608 Dali

622 Klee

648 De Goya

640 Warhol

646 Miró

628 625 624 Botticelli Kandinsky Renoir

641 607 629 Van Gogh Braque Constable

610 Turner

603 604 Michelangelo Lowry

614 Magritte

613 Giotto

630 Lautrec

612 638 643 Vermeer Hockney Ansingh

615 Soutine

605 Hogarth

644 Dürer

617 611 Cézanne Mondrian

645 Van Eyck

626 Kahlo

616 Klimt

618 609 601 Wood Rembrandt Pollock

Scheepjes Merino Soft: 50% Superwash Extra Fine Merino Wool, 25% Microibre, and 25% Acrylic; 50g/105m. Available in 49 beautiful colours, each named after a famous artist. Needle/Hook size: 4mm

WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM

[ C RA F T WO R K ]

We Love Rose lace top, £24, Dorothy Perkins

White crochet midi dress, Oasis, £60

Amal jute bag, £39.95, White Stuff Maria palm lace midi dress, £130, Monsoon

Leopard print dress, £45 and crochet bag, £28, both Miss Selfridge

MAKE IT YOURSELF! Hook Emily Ashbourn’s stunning Bardot Top from issue 104

Titania statement earrings, £22, Oliver Bonas

Mustard crochet block heels, New Look, £25.99 Daisy lace white cardigan, £26, M&Co

SPRING FASHION UPDATE From crafts to feminine detailing, neutrals to colour clashes, you’ll find plenty of affordable inspiration on the high street of this season’s key catwalk trends. [ F R I L L S A N D B OWS ]

We Love Fringed wrap, Marks & Spencer Penny lightweight poncho, £49.95, White Stuff Embroidered cherry dress, £80, Cath Kidston V by Very Denim ruffle detail dress, £40, Very

Polka dot ruffled maxi dress, £48, Dorothy Perkins

Polly tiered dress, £329, and accessories, all from Hobbs Fringed red bag, £38, Oliver Bonas

MAKE IT YOURSELF! Add some tassels with Kath Webber’s Lisbon Lux Bag, issue 104

18 Inside Crochet

➻

IN THE LOOP

News etc

[ T H E C L AS H ! ]

We Love Pleated skirt, £22, F&F at Tesco Macramé shopper, £29, Monsoon

Striped pleated skirt, £22; jumper £18, both from TU at Sainsbury’s

Striped dress, £18, Matalan

Bright check coat, £80, Next

MAKE IT YOURSELF!

Green animal print blouse, £35, Wallis

Make clashing cool with the Coachella Cardi by Cassie Ward from issue 80

Ditsy print top, Marks & Spencer Woven multi-coloured mules, £25, Miss Selfridge Blue woven earrings, Accessorize

[ T H E N E W N E U T RA L ] Pom-trimmed trilby, £35, Dune London

Camel tailored dress, £55, Oasis

Button utility skirt, £14, George at Asda Khaki trench, £50, Next Lace blouse, £24, xxxxxxxx Dorothy Perkins

MW by Matthew Williamson dress, £79, Debenhams

MAKE IT YOURSELF! Crochet a stunning cover-up with Hayley Joanne Robinson’s Falling Leaves Wrap from issue 108

Straw hoop earrings, £12.50, White Stuff

We Love Selma round crochet bag, £39, Monsoon

Striped tie shirt, £14; striped trousers, £15 and mac, £30, all from Matalan All Right boots, £90, Office

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 19

THE FOLKLORE BLANKET

WIN For your chance to win all the Stylecraft Special Aran yarn you’ll need to make the whole blanket, head to www.insidecrochet.co.uk/ competitions

brought to y ou in association w ith

PART ELEVEN

JOIN TOGETHER In the penultimate instalment of Sarah Shrimpton’s beautiful blanket, we begin piecing together the colourful squares… 20 Inside Crochet

e can’t believe it’s been almost a year since we embarked on this stunning folklore inspired blan ket – and we hope you’ve been enjoying it just as much as we have! Over the past ten months we’ve carefully hooked 29 colour ful squares, all worked in bright shades against bold black, and now the time has come to begin crocheting them all together. This issue, Sarah takes us through the careful process of joining the squares together into one large blan ket – ready for next issue’s final part, the dramatic border!

W

Of course, if you’ve m issed any squares along the way it’s still not too late to finish off your work – just head to page 84 to order the back issue you need and you’ll be caught up in no time! And we’re sure you’ll have loved the soft, colour ful and easy-care yarn Sarah chose, Stylecraft Special Aran, which is a great value choice for a larger project such as this. We can’t wait to see all your blan kets com ing together, so please do share your photos with us on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter – don’t forget to tag us in, and use the hashtag # folkloreblanketcal.

“Over the past ten m onths w e’ve carefully hooked 29 colourful squares, and now the tim e has com e to begin joining them ” www.insidecrochet.co.uk 21

THE FOLKLORE BLANKET

FOLKLORE BLANKET

SARAH SHRIMPTON, DESIGNER Sarah is a proud wife, mother, teacher, blogger and freelance designer – and one of Stylecraft’s extra-special “Blogstars”! She’s also the author of two fab crochet books, Beginner’s Guide To Crochet and Supersize Crochet. Find her online at www.annabooshouse. blogspot.com, and view more of her designs at www.ravelry.com/designers/ annaboos-house.

22 Inside Crochet

MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Special Aran, 100% acrylic, 100g/196m/214yds Yarn A: Black 1002 x 7 balls Yarn B: White 1001 x 1 ball Yarn C: Pomegranate 1083 x 1 ball Yarn D: Royal 1117 x 1 ball Yarn E: Lipstick 1246 x 1 ball Yarn F: Aspen 1422 x 1 ball Yarn G: Gold 1709 x 1 ball Yarn H: Empire 1829 x 1 ball ● 5mm hook

TENSION Tension is not important to the overall project. JOINING Using yarn A, join to any st on Giant Granny Square, 1ch (does not count as st), *1dc in each st to 2ch-sp, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp; rep from * around, 1dc in each st to end. Join with sl st to third ch. Using photos as a guide, lay out the blocks with the big granny square at the centre. START

Begin joining the squares around the edge of the big square first and then work backwards and forwards around the squares. To join the squares, hold with wrong sides together and line up the stitches. Work 1dc through the stitches in blo of the square facing you and the flo of the square facing away, as shown above. Work along the squares, making 1dc in each st and END ch-sp around. Weave in all ends.

COLOUR ME HAPPY! Fill your wardrobe with a rainbow of vibrant shades and stylish fashion. PHOTOGRAPHS LEANNE JADE PHOTOGRAPHY & KIRSTEN MAVRIC STYLING KATH WEBBER HAIR AND MAKE-UP NICKI HENBREY

➻

Canal Barge Jumper by Fran Morgan Using Patons Merino Extrafine DK Pattern page 48

Neon Pop Chevron Jumper by Emily Platt Using Caron Simply Soft Aran Pattern page 40

Harlequin Shawl by Alessandra Poggiagliolmi Using Sirdar No 1 Pattern page 62

Iced Gem Shawl by Helda Panagary Using Scheepjes Catona, River Washed and Stone Washed Pattern page 52

Kaleidoscope Cardigan by Cassie Ward Using Scheepjes Softfun Pattern page 44

Hundreds & Thousands Shawl by Sarah-Jane Hicks Using Kate Selene Squish Sock Pattern page 78

3

WIDE RANGE OF:

Helen Jordan

• Crochet hooks - Knit Pro Symfonie, Clover Soft Touch, Crystalites • Broomsticks (knitting needles from 9mm to 25mm) • Tunisian crochet hooks; single ended, double ended, flexible, interchangeable Knit Pro Symfonie • Hairpin tools including a special 20cm wide frame • Cottons from 10s to 100s weight • Loads of patterns and booklets, including my stitch dictionary Textured Crochet • Workshops and talk on all aspects of crochet • Technical Editing • Knit Pro Symfonie interchangeable knitting needle tips and cables from 40cm to 200cm

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Coleshill Accessories

Flexible feeling in your fingers

www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk Sets of Knit-Pro Interchangeable needles

Clover Soft Touch Crochet Set £29.99

in strong, rainbow coloured birch. The birch wood tips screw into the cables, enabling you to change size quickly and economically. You can knit straight or in the round. Great for arthritic hands!

The needle point is ideally shaped for easy crocheting

Contains 8 hooks in sizes:- 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.5mm, & 6mm in compact smart case.

The handle is light, easy to hold and well balanced.

The material looks like stylish tortoiseshell

Clover Soft Touch Crochet hooks Customers’ favourite!

Symfonie De Luxe set £59.95 Has 8 pairs of needles sizes 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0mm and 4 cables to make 60, 80, 100 & 120 cm circular needles.

Remember to state size. Available singly in sizes 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6mm £3.25ea For smaller than 2mm see our website or ring us. See left for a set in a case.

Knitting Needle & Crochet Cases Circular Needles case Crochet hook case Two rows of pockets for circular Holds 8 hooks £7.95 needles, tips and cables £11.50

Knitting Needle Cases Symfonie Starter set £21.50 Has 3 knitting tips sizes 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 3 cables 60cm, 80cm and 100cm.

Store up to 7 pairs of needles in each with a pocket for accessories. State size required. A) For 9” needles B) For 14” needles

£11.50 each

Clover Row counter £6.95 Pendant style for using with circular needles. Just click to change the number. Lockable.

Handeze Gloves Relieve pain from arthritis, tendonitis, carpel tunnel etc. while stitching or knitting. Available in beige or slate blue, with or without the extra wrist strap, which gives more support. Tail Catcher £21.95 To measure for size place hand on piece of Secures the end of your thread paper. Mark the paper each side of the when it is too short to use a knuckles, at the base of the fingers. Measure needle. Thread the loop through the distance between the 2 marks and select your stitching, hook the short size. thread into the loop & pull Size 2 2 – 2½” 51 -– 64mm through. 2½ – 3¼” 64 – 78mm Size 3 Choose from Butterfly, Tortoise, 3¼ – 3¾” Size 4 78 – 91mm Celtic, Bee, Kingfisher 3¾ – 4½” 91 – 105mm Size 5 Not suitable for wool. Regular £19.95 Wrist Support £20.95 Postage & packing. Orders up to £12 – £2.95. Orders £12 to £25 – £3.95. Orders over £25 – £4.95

Order from Siesta Frames Ltd (Please make cheques payable to Siesta Frames Ltd) Unit D. Longmeadow Ind.Est. Three Legged Cross, Wimborne. BH21 6RD

Telephone. 01202 829461 www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk Other items available at www.siestaframes.com

RAINBOW BRIGHTS

Circus Patchwork Blanket by Emma Varnam Using Stylecraft Life DK and Batik DK Pattern page 65

Try new techniques in a spectrum of shades with our colourful accessories and homewares. PHOTOGRAPHS LEANNE JADE PHOTOGRAPHY, KIRSTEN MAVRIC AND EMMA MITCHELL STYLING KATH WEBBER HAIR AND MAKE-UP NICKI HENBREY

➻

➻

RAINBOW BRIGHTS

ABOVE Don’t Be A Square Earrings by Sarah-Jane Hicks Using Scheepjes Maxi Sweet Treat Pattern page 56 ABOVE RIGHT Cafetière Cover & Coasters by Theodora Burrow Using Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Pattern page 86

34 Inside Crochet

BELOW Sunset Sampler Cushion by Jane Czaja Using Stylecraft Special DK Pattern page 80

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 35

➻

RAINBOW BRIGHTS

ABOVE Rainbow Mandala by Laura Strutt Using Stylecraft Special DK Pattern page 58 ABOVE RIGHT Josef Blanket by Helda Panagary Using Scheepjes Stone Washed and River Washed Pattern page 82

36 Inside Crochet

BELOW Happy Heart Garland Set by Sue Rawlinson Using DMC Natura XL Pattern page 68

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 37

➻

RAINBOW BRIGHTS

Sea Glass Wrist Warmers by Eleonora Tully Using Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints Pattern page 57

38 Inside Crochet

YOUR PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS START HERE BEGINNER

EASY

INTERMEDIATE

ADVANCED

Neon Pop Chevron Jumper

Kaleidoscope Cardigan

Canal Barge Jumper

Iced Gem Shawl

Don’t Be A Square Earrings

Emily Platt

Cassie Ward

Fran Morgan

Helda Panagary

Sarah-Jane Hicks

Page 40

Page 44

Page 48

Page 52

Page 56

Sea Glass Wrist Warmers

Rainbow Mandala

Harlequin Shawl

Circus Patchwork Blanket

Happy Heart Garland Set

Eleonora Tully

Laura Strutt

Alessandra Poggiagliolmi

Emma Varnam

Sue Rawlinson

Page 57

Page 58

Page 62

Page 65

Page 68

Hundreds & Thousands Shawl

Sunset Sampler Cushion

Josef Blanket

Cafetière Cover & Coasters

Sarah-Jane Hicks

Jane Czaja

Helda Panagary

Theodora Burrow

Page 78

Page 80

Page 82

Page 86

The big reveal – the beautiful Butterfly Effect by Kela Ahnhem aka Crochetingkay! Page 72

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 39

➻

MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Caron Simply Soft Aran, 100% acrylic, 170g/288m/315yds Yarn A: Blue Mint 9608 x 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn B: Neon Coral 9772 x 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn C: Grape 9610 x 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) ball(s) Yarn D: Neon Pink 9775 x 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) ball(s) Yarn E: White 9701 x 1 ball ● 5mm hook ● Four stitch markers ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any aran weight acrylic yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 14 sts and 7 rows in pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Emily Platt looks after her Instagram page, @lostinknit and has worked with brands including Knitcraft by Hobbycraft, Rowan and BettaKnit. PATTERN NOTES 2ch at beg of row does not count as a stitch. On chart, each rectangle equals 1tr. Be sure to carry the unused colour from start to finish on each row to keep the look and feel of the fabric the same throughout.

Neon Pop Chevron Jumper BY EMILY PLATT

Add a pop of colour to your wardrobe with this fun chevron jumper using tapestr y crochet. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this colourful yarn from www.hobbycraft.co.uk

40 Inside Crochet

Try to keep tension as even as possible. Make sure not to pucker the fabric when joining in a new colour or allow the carried yarn to become too loose. Change colour on last pull through of last stitch so that new colour is ready to use for next st. If there is a colour change at beginning of row be sure to change colour on last stage of stitch on row below. After each colour section cut yarn and rejoin when needed.

BODY Make two Using 5mm hook and yarn A, 77 (81, 85, 89, 93)ch. Set-up Row: (WS) 1dc in second ch from hk, 1dc in each ch to end, turn – 76 (80, 84, 88, 92) sts. Row 1: (RS) 2ch (does not count as st), start at bottom right-hand corner of Chart A, work in tr following Chart and working over yarn B until colour change, turn at end of row. Cont to work in patt until 38 (39, 40, 41, 42) rows have been worked in patt in total. Work should measure approx 54 (56, 57, 58, 60)cm/21¼ (22, 22½, 22¾, 23½)in from start of work. Fasten off.

15cm/ 6in

15cm/ 6in 17 (18, 19, 20, 21)cm 6¾ (7, 7½, 8, 8¼)in

54 (56, 57, 58, 60)cm 21¼ (22, 22½, 22¾, 23¾)in

START

31 (34, 34, 34, 34)cm 12 (13½, 13½, 13½, 13½)in

109 (114, 119, 125, 130)cm 43 (45, 47, 49½, 51¼)in

SLEEVE CHART Chart B (Sleeve)

24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5

Yarn A Yarn B

4

Yarn C

3

Yarn D

2

Yarn E

1

Size 16 Size 12 & 14 Size 8 & 10

Read RS (even) rows from R to L Read WS (odd) rows from L to R

Size 16 Size 12 & 14 Size 8 & 10

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 41

42 Inside Crochet

2

Size 8 Size 10 Size 12 Size 14 Size 16

1

3

5

7

9

MAKE IT

4

6

8

10

Chart A (Body) ➻ Pattern instructions

BODY

SLEEVES Make two Using 5mm hook and yarn A, 33 (33, 35, 35, 37)ch. Set-up Row: (WS) 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to end, turn – 32 (32, 34, 34, 36) sts. Row 1: (RS) 2ch (does not count as st), start at bottom right corner of Chart B, work in tr following Chart working over yarn B until colour change, turn at end of row. Row 2: 2ch, 2tr in first tr, patt to last st, 2tr into last tr, turn – 34 (34, 36, 36, 38) sts. Cont to work from Chart B, increasing as set on each WS row to 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) sts. Cont to work in patt until 22 (24, 24, 24, 24) rows have been worked in patt in total. Work should measure approx 31 (34, 34, 34, 34)cm/12¼ (13½, 13½, 13½, 13½)in from start of work. Fasten off.

NECK TRIM Using a yarn that was worked in last row of the body (yarn A or B or yarn C or D), join with sl st to either shoulder seam. Row 1: 1ch, 1dc in each dc around neck opening, sl st to beg of round. Fasten off. FINISHING Pm on each side of Front and Back 17 (18, 19, 20, 21)cm/ 6¾ (7, 7½, 7¾, 8¼)in down from shoulder seam. With RS facing, pin centre of sleeve head to shoulder seam and join sleeve head to body, between markers. With RS facing, join underarm and side seams. END

Weave in all ends. DRESS SIZE

8

10

12

14

16

TO FIT BUST

81

86

91

97

102

cm

32

34

36

38

40

in

109

114

119

125

130

cm

43

45

47

49½

51¼

in

31

34

34

34

34

cm

12

13½

13½

13½

13½

in

54

56

57

58

60

cm

21¼

22

22½

22¾

23¾

in

ACTUAL BUST MAKING UP Sew in all ends. With right sides tog, measure 15cm/6in along top edge of Body from shoulder towards neck on each side and join for shoulder seams.

SLEEVE SEAM

LENGTH

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 43

➻

MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Softfun, 60% cotton/40% acrylic 50g/140m/153yds Yarn A: Black 2408 x 6 (6, 7, 7) balls Yarn B: Orange 2427 x 2 balls Yarn C: Cerise 2495 x 2 balls Yarn D: Dark Green 2517 x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn E: Dark Turquoise 2511 x 2 balls Yarn F: Mustard 2610 x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn G: Coral 2607 x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn H: Dark Purple 2515 x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn I: Light Pink 2514 x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn J: Light Green 2516 x 2 balls Yarn K: Light Yellow 2518 x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn L: Light Turquoise 2614 x 2 balls Yarn M: Royal Blue 2512 x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) ● 4.5mm (5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm) hook YARN ALTERNATIVES Any DK weight yarn would be a suitable substitute for working this design. TENSION Work Small Granny Square to measure 9.5 (10, 10.5, 11) x 9.5 (10, 10.5, 11)cm/3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½) x 3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½)in using 4.5mm (5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm) hook. Work Large Back Granny Square to measure 57 (60, 63, 66) x 57 (60, 63, 66)cm/22½ (23¾, 24¾,26) x 22½ (23¾, 24¾,26) in using 4.5mm (5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm) hook.

Kaleidoscope Cardigan

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Cassie loves creating projects with the beloved granny square – they are so simple, bold and fun!

BY CASSIE WARD

Granny squares are used to create this lovely fun cardigan, worked in a bright, uplifting palette.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this cotton blend yarn from www.blacksheepwools.com

44 Inside Crochet

LARGE GRANNY SQUARE With yarn B and hook for your size, 4ch, sl st to first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: (RS) 3ch (counts as 1tr here and throughout), 2tr in ring, 2ch, (3tr, 2ch) three times in ring, join with sl st to top of 3ch, turn. Change to yarn C. START

Rnd 2: (WS) 3ch, (2tr, 2ch, 3tr) in same 2ch-sp, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in each 2ch-sp, sl st to top of 3ch, turn. Change to yarn D. Rnd 3: 3ch, 2tr in sp between 3tr groups, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in next 2ch-sp, *3tr in next sp, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in next 2ch-sp; rep from * twice more, sl st to top of 3ch, turn. Change to yarn E.

Rnd 4: 3ch, 2tr in sp between 3tr groups, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in next 2ch-sp, *3tr in each sp to next corner 2ch-sp, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, rep; from * twice more, 3tr in next sp, sl st to top of 3ch, turn. Change to yarn A. Rnd 5: 3ch, 2tr in same sp, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp, *3tr in each sp to next corner 2ch-sp, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp; rep from * twice more, 3tr in each sp to

end, sl st to top of 3ch, turn. Change to yarn F. Rnd 6: As Rnd 5. Rnd 7: As Rnd 5 using yarn G. Rnd 8: As Rnd 5 using yarn A. Rnd 9: As Rnd 5 using yarn H. Rnd 10: As Rnd 5 using yarn I. Rnd 11: As Rnd 5 using yarn J. Rnd 12: As Rnd 5 using yarn A. Rnd 13: As Rnd 5 using yarn K. Rnd 14: As Rnd 5 using yarn L. Rnd 15: As Rnd 5 using yarn M.

Rnd 16: As Rnd 5 using yarn A. Rnd 17: As Rnd 5 using yarn B. Rnd 18: As Rnd 5 using yarn C. Rnd 19: As Rnd 5 using yarn D. Rnd 20: As Rnd 5 using yarn E. Change to yarn A. Rnds 21–24: As Rnd 5. Fasten off. SMALL GRANNY SQUARES These can either be joined by working in blo of each of sts or use continual joining method in Rnd 4. For the bottom three rows of the Back section, see schematic for layout of squares. Follow patt for Rnds 1–4 of Large Granny Square working following number of squares in colour combinations as given: SQUARE 1 Make 13 Rnd 1: Yarn D. Rnd 2: Yarn K. Rnd 3: Yarn B. Rnd 4: Yarn A. SQUARE 2 Make 14 Rnd 1: Yarn H. Rnd 2: Yarn I. Rnd 3: Yarn L. Rnd 4: Yarn A. SQUARE 3 Make 13 Rnd 1: Yarn G. Rnd 2: Yarn E. Rnd 3: Yarn J. Rnd 4: Yarn A. SQUARE 4 Make 14 Rnd 1: Yarn F. Rnd 2: Yarn M. Rnd 3: Yarn C. Rnd 4: Yarn A. Join three rows of six squares each to bottom of Large Granny Square using schematic as a guide. BACK EDGING With RS facing, rejoin yarn A to top right corner of one long side, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in corner 2ch-sp, 3tr in each space between 3tr groups to bottom corner, 2tr in corner 2ch-sp. Fasten off. Rep for second long side.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 45

MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

FRONT Make two Join two rows of nine squares using schematic as a guide. Join yarn A to top right corner of Right Front (indicated by a red cross on schematic), 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in corner 2ch-sp, 3tr in each space between 3tr groups to end of long edge, 2tr in bottom corner 2ch-sp. Fasten off. Rep on Left Front starting at point indicated by blue cross.

17.5 (18, 18.5, 19)cm 6¾ (7, 7¼, 7½)in

57 (60, 63, 66)cm 22½ (23½, 24¾, 26)in

JOIN FRONTS TO BACK Sew up Fronts to Back leaving 17.5 (18, 18.5, 19)cm/6¾ (7, 7 ¼, 7½)in for armhole.

70 (74, 78, 82)cm 27½ (29, 30¾, 32¾)in

➻

EDGING Join yarn D join to left side top corner (green cross on schematic), 3ch, 1tr in corner 2ch-sp, work 3tr in space between each 3tr group to bottom of Left Front, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in corner 2ch-sp, work around bottom edge in the same way ending at neck edge of Right Front ending with 2tr in last corner 2ch-sp, turn. Fasten off yarn D, join in yarn A.

BACK

RIGHT FRONT

BACK

LEFT FRONT

Front

Front

3

2

1

2

1

4

3

4

3

2

1

2

1

4

3

4

3

2

1

2

1

4

3

CENTRE Centre FRONT Front

4

4

2

1

3

4

2

4

3

2

1

1

3

4

2

1

3

2

1

4

3

4

2

1

3

4

2

4

3

2

1

46 Inside Crochet

½½sp ½½ Row 2: 3ch, 3tr in each between 3tr groups around working (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in each corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in top of last tr, turn. Cont in this way working four more rows: Row 3: Using yarn E as Row 1. Row 4: Using yarn F as Row 2. Row 5: Using yarn A as Row 1. Row 6: Using yarn G as Row 2. Using yarn A join Fronts to Back at shoulders. SLEEVES Make two Rnds 1–11: Work as for Large Granny Square. Rnds 12 & 13: Work as for Large Granny Square using yarn A only. Work along one edge of square as folls: Row 1: Using yarn K, 3ch, 1tr in 2ch-sp, 3tr in each sp between 3tr groups to end, 2tr in corner 2ch-sp, turn.

¾¾

Row 2: Using yarn E, 3ch, in top of last tr, 3tr in each sp between 3tr groups to end, 1tr in top of last tr, turn.

1

2

5

3 4

Row 3: Using yarn M as Row 1. Row 4: Using yarn A as Row 2. Row 5: Using yarn B as Row 1. Row 6: Using yarn C as Row 2. Row 7: Using yarn D as Row 1. Row 8: Using yarn A as Row 2. Rows 9–11: 1ch, 1dc in each to end. Fasten off.

treble crochet (tr)

FINISHING Sew Sleeve to armhole with dc rows at bottom forming cuff. With yarn A, work three rows in dc around entire edge END of garment. Weave in ends.

S

M

L

XL

114

120

126

132

cm

41¾

47

49½

52

in

SHOULDER TO SHOULDER

57

60

63

66

cm

22½

23½

24¾

26

in

LENGTH TO UNDERARM

70

74

78

82

cm

27½

29

30¾

32¾

in

ACTUAL CHEST

chain stitch slip stitch

Turn and work along opposite side of square. Rep Rows 1–4. Fold square together lengthways, sew along edge to make Sleeve.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 47

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Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Patons Merino Extrafine DK, 100% wool, 50g/120m/131yds Yarn A: Cream 102 x 9 (10, 10, 11) balls Yarn B: Sundance 120 x 1 ball Yarn C: Orange 125 x 2 balls Yarn D: Iris 168 x 2 (2, 3, 3) balls ● 3.5mm hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 18 sts and 12 rows in patt to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Granny squares should measure approximately 7cm/2¾in wide. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Fran has been crocheting since her early teens. She started designing and writing crochet patterns two or three years ago. She tries to make her garments wearable and has designs for the beginner and the more experienced crocheter. Visit her website at www.franmorgan.co.uk.

Canal Barge Jumper BY FRAN MORGAN

Inspired by ’70 s fashion and colours, this vibrant top is sure to make you smile!

PATTERN NOTES The design is made by working the sleeves first. A strip of granny squares is joined then rows of pattern are worked either side to form sleeve. The body is then worked down from the sleeves and yoke. The markers are placed on the side seams of body and should be moved up each round. GRANNY SQUARES Make seven (seven, eight, eight) for each sleeve and 15 (17, 18, 20) for hem border With yarn B, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr here and throughout), 2tr, 3ch, [3tr, 3ch] three times in ring, sl st to top of 3ch to join. Break yarn. Rnd 2: Join yarn C in any ch-sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same ch-sp, [(3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp] three times, sl st to top of 3ch. Break yarn. START

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.wisebadger.com

48 Inside Crochet

Rnd 3: Join yarn D in any corner 3ch-sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same ch-sp, 3tr in space between next 3 tr group, *(3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp, 3tr in space between next 3 tr group; rep from * twice more, sl st to top of 3ch. On each subsequent Granny Square Rnd 3 is used to join squares as folls: Rnd 3: Join yarn D in corner 3ch-sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same ch-sp, 3tr in sp between next 3tr group, 3tr in next 3ch-sp, 1ch, sl st to corresponding ch in corner of first square, 1ch, return to second square 3tr in same 3ch-sp to complete corner, sl st in corresponding sp in first square, pull yarn through hook, 3tr in space between next 3tr group on second square, 3tr in next 3ch-sp, 1ch, sl st in corner ch-sp of first square, 1ch, 3tr in same 3ch-sp to complete corner. Complete round as normal without joining. HALF GRANNY SQUARE Make two for sizes M & XL With yarn B, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 3ch, (1tr, 3ch, 3tr, 3ch, 2tr) in ring, sl st to 3ch to join. Break yarn. Rnd 2: Join yarn C to 3ch of first rnd, 4ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in corner 3ch-sp] twice, 1ch, 1tr in last tr. Break yarn. Rnd 3: Join yarn D to standing ch of last round, 1tr in space between standing ch and next tr, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in corner 3ch-sp, 3tr in space between next 3 tr group, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in corner 3ch-sp, 1tr in next sp, 1tr in last st tr. Break yarn. SLEEVES Join together two strips of 7 (7½, 8, 8½) squares. Join yarn A to right hand top corner of joined strip. Work one round of dc around strip, working 3dc in each corner ch-sp, 1dc in each st, and where squares are joined, 1dc in corner space, 1dc in space between square and 1dc in corner space. BACK Join yarn A to corner space of joined strip. Row 1: 3ch (does not count as st

FRONT Join yarn A to corner sp of joined strip.

58 (59, 60, 61)cm 23 (23½, 24, 24½)in

here and throughout), 2tr in base of ch, [miss 2 dc, 3tr in next dc] to end, ending last rep 2tr in last dc, turn – 85 (91, 97, 103) sts. Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end. These two rows form patt and are repeated. Rep last two rows four (five, six, seven) times. Set aside and work the same for second sleeve. Join yarn to last st of one sleeve, 47ch, sl st to join other sleeve, to form yoke sts. Work Row 2 across joined sleeve sts, working in patt over ch sts – 217 (229, 241, 253) sts. Rep Rows 1 & 2 until work measures approximately 18 (19, 20, 21)cm/7 (7½, 7¾, 8¼)in, ending with Row 2. Note: This is an approximate measurement, don’t worry if you have to work one more row.

92 (104, 112, 124)cm 36 (41, 44, 49)in

Row 1: 3ch (does not count as st here and throughout), 2tr in base of ch, [miss 2 dc, 3tr in next dc] to end, ending last rep 2tr in last dc, turn – 85 (91, 97, 103) sts. Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end.

These two rows form pattern and are repeated. Rep last two rows six (seven, eight, nine) times. Set aside and work the same for second sleeve.

46cm/ 18in

Join yarn A to last st of one sleeve, 47ch, sl st to join other sleeve, to form yoke sts. Work Row 2 across joined sleeves, working in patt over ch sts – 217 (229, 241, 253) sts.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 49

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Rep Rows 1 & 2 until work measures 18 (19, 20, 21)cm/7 (7½, 7¾, 8¼)in, ending with Row 2. Note: This is an approximate measurement, don’t worry if you have to work one more row. BODY Fold each sleeve so long edges meet. To mark bust width, pm each side of sleeve for centre 27 (31, 33, 37) tr groups – 81 (93, 99, 111) sts. Sew together each sleeve between cuff and marker. Body is worked in rnds with marker points denoting side seams (see Pattern Notes). With RS facing, join yarn A to top right edge of Front. Rnd 1: Sl st in second dc, (this should be centre dc above 3tr group), 3ch, 2tr in base of ch, miss 2 dc, [3tr in next dc, miss 2 dc] to marked point, ending last rep with 3tr, cont across Back until next marker, ending last rep with 3tr, join with sl st to standing ch, turn – 162 (186, 198, 222) sts. Rnd 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, join with sl st to first st. Rep Rnds 1 & 2, twice more. SHAPE SIDES Next Rnd: (Inc) 3ch, 2tr in base of ch, miss next dc, [3tr in next st, miss 2 dc] to marker, 3tr in next dc, miss next dc, [3tr in next dc, miss 2 dc] to marker, join with sl st to complete rnd – 168 (192, 204, 228) sts. Move markers to centre st of 3tr inc sts (so making an inc of 3tr between two groups of 3tr on either side of marker). Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, join with sl st to first st. Rep Rnds 1 & 2 four more times. Next Rnd: (Inc) 3ch, 5tr in base of ch, miss 2 dc, [3tr in next st, miss 2 dc] to marker, 6tr in next dc, miss 2 dc, [3tr in next dc, miss 2 dc] to marker, join with sl st to complete rnd – 174 (198, 210, 234) sts. Move markers to centre st of each group of 6tr (so making an inc of 3tr in centre of 3tr group at marker). Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, join with sl st to first st. Rep Rnds 1 & 2 four more times. Next Rnd: (Inc) 3ch, 2tr in base 50 Inside Crochet

of ch, miss next dc, [3tr in next st, miss 2 dc] to marker, 3tr in next dc, miss next dc, [3tr in next dc, miss 2 dc] to marker, join with sl st to complete rnd – 180 (204, 216, 240) sts. Move markers to centre st of 3tr inc sts (so making an inc of 3tr between two groups of 3tr on either side of marker). Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end, join with sl st to first st. Rep Rnds 1 & 2 until work meas 38cm/15in from start of body. Break yarn. HEM BORDER Join tog 15 (17, 18, 20) granny squares in a strip and attach last one to first to form a round. Join yarn A to right hand top corner of joined round. Work one round in dc around strip, working 3dc in each corner and 1dc in each st, and where squares are joined, 1dc in corner sp, 1dc in sp between square and dc in corner sp, join with sl st to complete rnd. Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end. Break yarn and fasten off. Work the same for bottom of Hem Border. CUFFS Using yarn D, work 1dc around each tr post and 1dc in each dc around cuff, join with sl st to form a round. Rnd 1: 1ch, 1dc in each st around. Work one more round in yarn D. Break yarn. Join yarn C, work three rnds in dc. Join yarn B, work three rnds in dc. NECKBAND Mark centre st of back yoke. Join yarn D to marked st. Rnd 1: 1ch, 1dc in each st

TO FIT BUST

ACTUAL BUST

SLEEVE SEAM

LENGTH

(bottom of ch) to corner, pm, *2dc around each tr post and 1dc in row end of dc, 1dc in each dc of granny stripe, 1dc in row end of dc, 2dc around each tr post to corner, pm, 1dc in each st (bottom of ch) to corner, pm, 1dc in each st to corner, pm; rep from * ending with 1dc in each st to end of rnd, join with sl st in first st to complete rnd, do not turn. Rnd 2: 1ch, *1dc in each st to 1 st before marker, dc3tog; rep from *

ending with 1dc in each st to end of rnd, join with st st to first st to complete rnd, do not turn. Work two more rnds in yarn D. Break yarn. Join yarn C, work three rnds. Break yarn. Join yarn B, work three rnds. Break yarn. MAKING UP Sew hem to main body. Weave in ends.

END

S

M

L

XL

82–87

92–97

102–107

112–117

cm

32–34

36–38

40–42

44–46

in

92

104

112

124

cm

36

41

44

49

in

46

46

46

46

cm

18

18

18

18

in

58

59

60

61

cm

23

23½

24

24½

in

*Covermount gifts not available with digital versions

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Kaleidoscope Cardigan by Cassie Ward Using Scheepjes Softfun Pattern page 44

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Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Catona, 100% cotton, 50g/125m/137yds Yarn A: English Tea 404 x 2 balls ● Scheepjes Stone Washed/ River Washed Colour Pack, 78%cotton/22% acrylic, 10g/26m/28yds 50 x 10g balls in different shades ● 4mm hook TENSION Exact tension is not required for this design. MEASUREMENTS Shawl is 150cm/59in across and 75cm/29½in to its point. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Helda is hopelessly devoted to yarn, and is constantly working to transform it to modern crochet. She can be found at www.heldasland.blogspot.co.uk. SPECIAL STITCHES Picot: 3ch, insert hook in third ch from hook, yrh, pull through all loops – picot made. Tr3tog: (Yarn round hook, insert hook in stitch, yrh and draw through stitch, yrh and draw through 2 loops) three times, yrh, draw through 4 loops on hook. CL1: Tr2tog, 3ch, tr2tog. CL2: Tr3tog, picot, tr3tog, yoh and draw stitch loops on the hook, yoh and pull through the first two loops only.

Iced Gem Shawl BY HELDA PANAGARY

All the different colour motifs remind us of the colourful swirls of icing on Iced Gem biscuits! ADD TO THE STASH Buy these colourful yarns from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

52 Inside Crochet

PATTERN NOTES Each corner consists of three clusters of tr3tog. Select colours randomly without using black. Joining Motifs: Having made first square, all subsequent squares are joined on the third round to previous square(s) at both corner picots and again with “1dc between tr3tog”. Join 12 squares on Row 1 and 11 squares on the next, decreasing one square for the next row and so on. Where one square is decreased, add the half triangle motif, this

will create the longest edge of the shawl and form a triangle. SQUARES Make 78 With yarn A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 1ch, [3dc, 3ch] in ring four times, join with sl st to first dc. Close the circle.

3ch-sp, 1dc in between next 2 tr3tog, 3dc in next 3ch-sp] three times, join with sl st in third of 6ch at start.

START

Rnd 2: Join next selected colour in any 3ch-sp, (3ch (acts as first tr), tr2tog, 3ch, tr3tog (see Special Stitches), 3ch, tr3tog) in same 3ch-sp, *(tr3tog, 3ch, tr3tog, 3ch, tr3tog) in next 3ch-sp; rep from * twice more, join with sl st to top of 3ch. Rnd 3: Join next selected colour to centre tr3tog of any corner, 6ch, sl st in third ch from hook (picot), 1tr in same place as 6ch, 3dc in next 3ch-sp, miss next tr3tog, 1dc in between next 2 tr3tog, 3dc in next 3ch-sp, [(1tr, picot (see Special Stitches), 1tr) in top of next tr3tog, 3dc in next

HALF MOTIF Make 13 Choose colours randomly throughout from the 10g balls, working Rnds 1 & 2 in the same colour. Rnd 1: Make an adjustable ring, 4ch (acts as 1tr plus 1ch), (3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch, 1tr) in ring, turn. Rnd 2: 4ch (acts as 1tr plus 1ch), 3tr in 1ch-sp, miss 3tr, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in 3ch-sp, miss 3tr, 3tr in 4ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in last third of 4ch, turn. Change to next shade of yarn. Rnd 3: All triangles are joined to a square on this round. 3ch (acts as first tr), pull this through the picot part of square motif, 1ch, 3tr in first 1ch-sp of previous row, join to a dc on square, miss 3tr on triangle, 3tr in sp, join to a dc on square, miss 3tr, 3tr in 3ch-sp, 3ch, join to picot of

square, 3tr in same 3ch-sp, join to a dc on square, miss 3tr on triangle, 3tr in sp, join to a dc on square, miss 3tr on triangle, 3tr, 1ch, join to picot of square, 1tr in third of 4ch. Cut yarn and weave in end. BORDER Border is worked along on two edges only, not the edge with triangle motifs. Row 1: Using 4mm hook and yarn A, 1ch, 2dc in same place, 1dc in every dc across first side, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) in 3ch-sp of last square, 1dc in every dc across second side, 2dc in 1ch-sp at end, turn. Row 2: 1ch, 3dc in between the first and second dc of previous row, 1dc in every dc across, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) in corner 3ch-sp, 1dc in every dc across, 2dc in last st. Rows 3 & 4: As Row 2. Row 5: 3ch (acts as first tr throughout), 2tr in first dc, 1ch,

(miss 1dc, 1tr in next st, 1ch) across first side, ((1tr, 1ch, 1tr), place SM in tr just made, (1ch, 1tr, 1ch)) in corner 3ch-sp, 1tr, (1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr) across second side, 3tr in last st Row 6: 3ch, 2tr in between first and second tr of previous row, 1ch, miss 2tr, CL1 (see Special Stitches) in 1ch-sp, miss (1tr, 1ch, 1tr), *CL1 in next 1ch-sp, miss (1tr, 1ch, 1tr); rep from * until tr marked by SM, (tr2tog, 1ch, tr2tog, place SM in last tr2tog made, 1ch, tr2tog) in this marked tr, *1ch, miss (1tr, 1ch, 1tr), CL1 in next 1ch-sp; rep from * to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. Row 7: 3ch, 2tr in same st, miss 2tr, CL2 (see Special Stitches) in each 2ch-sp of CL1 across until SM, (tr3tog, 2ch, tr3tog, picot, 2ch, tr3tog) in marked tr2tog, CL2 in each 2ch-sp of CL1 across, 3tr in the last st. Fasten off and weave END in ends.

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Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Maxi Sweet Treat, 100% cotton, 25g/140m/153yds Yarn A: Yellow Gold 208 x 1 ball Yarn B: Electric Blue 201 x 1 ball Yarn C: Hot Red 115 x 1 ball Yarn D: Royal Orange 189 x 1 ball Yarn E: Grass Green 606 x 1 ball Yarn F: Ultra Violet 282 x 1 ball ● 1.5mm hook ● Fish hook earring wires in gold and silver

Rnd 2: Sl st in first ch of ch-sp, 3ch, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1tr in each of next three sts, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 3 sts, 2tr in ch-sp, 2ch (change to yarn A/D when making second ch), 2tr in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next three sts, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 3 sts, 2tr in ch-sp, 2ch, work second ch through loop of fish hook earring wire to join, then join with sl st to top of first 3ch – 28tr, 4ch-sps. Fasten off and weave in ends.

YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any laceweight yarn to achieve a similar effect.

TASSEL Cut 20 10cm/4in lengths of yarn C/F thread through bottom corner of granny square and fold in half. Wrap a length of yarn three times around to form top of tassel and tie securely at the back. Measure down 4cm/1½in from top of tassel and trim ends to length.

TENSION Exact tension is not critical for this project. MEASUREMENTS Length: 7cm/2¾in. Width: 4cm/1½in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Sarah-Jane loves being inventive with crochet and likes her designs to be simple, fun and quirky and most of all make people smile. Find her on Instagram @flo_and_dot.

Don’t Be A Square Earrings BY SARAH-JANE HICKS

Granny squares and tassels make a perfect combination for these bright and bold earrings.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton yarn from www.deramores.com

56 Inside Crochet

GRANNY SQUARE Using yarn A/D and 1.5mm hook, 4ch. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as first tr), (2tr, 2ch, 3tr, 2ch) in fourth ch from hook, (change to yarn B/E when making second ch, do not cut yarn A/D), (3tr, 2ch, 3tr, 2ch) in same ch, join with sl st to top of first 3ch, turn – 12tr, 4ch-sps.

FINISHING Block earrings as required.

END

chain stitch slip stitch treble crochet (tr)

START

2 1

MATERIALS ● Cascade Yarns Heritage Paints, 75% wool/25% nylon, 100g/400m/437yds Shade: Teal Mix 9809 x 1 skein ● 3.5mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Stitch marker ● Scissors YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any 4ply weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 14 sts and 14 rows in dc rib st to measure 4 x 4cm/1½ x 1½in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished wrist warmer measures 11cm/4¼in across at the widest point and 15cm/6in in height.

Sea Glass Wrist Warmers BY ELEONORA TULLY

Inspired by sea glass, these wrist warmers use popcorns and raised trebles to keep your hands warm whilst fingers are left free!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton yarn from www.deramores.com

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Eleonora is passionate about crochet. She lives near the sea and is constantly inspired by her coastal surroundings. She shares crochet inspiration and designs on her blog www.coastalcrochet.com and Instagram @coastalcrochet. SPECIAL STITCHES Popcorn (pc): 5tr in next st, drop loop from hook, insert hook through top of first st from front to back, pick up dropped loop and pull through first st. PATTERN NOTES Each wrist warmer is made in one piece. The cuff is made first in rows of double crochet rib, joined and turned 90° to work in continuous rounds.

Row 2: (RS) 1ch (does not count as st throughout), 1dc blo across, turn – 14dc blo. Rows 3–39: As Row 2. Row 40: (RS) With WS tog, make cuff by folding work in half, and joining first and last rows with sl st through blo of each st and each remaining loop of foundation ch to the end. Take care to crochet into the first st of each row. The cuff is now complete. Do not cut the yarn. Turn and work hand section in continuous rounds. Rnd 1: (RS) 3ch (counts as first tr throughout), 1tr in next and each row end around picking up two strands for each st, sl st to top of 3ch to join – 40tr. Do not turn. Rnd 2: 3ch, *1pc (see Special Stitches) in next st, 1rtrf around next st; rep from * to last st, 1pc in last st, sl st to top of 3ch to join – 20 pcs. Rnd 3: 3ch, *1tr in next st, 1rtrf around next st; rep from * to last st, 1tr in last st, sl st to top of 3ch to join – 40tr. Rnds 4–15: Rep Rnds 2 & 3 six times more. THUMB HOLE Rnd 16: 3ch, [1pc, 1rtrf] six times, 1pc in next st, miss 12 sts, 1rtrf around next st, [1pc, 1rtrf] six times, 1pc in last st, sl st to top of 3ch to join – 14 pcs. Rnd 17: As Rnd 3 – 28tr. Rnds 18–21: Rep Rnds 2 & 3 twice. END Fasten off and weave in ends.

Use stitch marker to mark top of 3ch at start of each round of the hand section to see where to slip stitch at the end of each round. WRIST WARMERS Make two Using 3.5mm hook, 15ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook going under blo of ch, 1dc blo of each ch to end, turn – 14dc blo. START

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Rainbow Mandala BY LAURA STRUTT

This large lap blanket is a colourful take on a traditional granny design. Worked to create a giant circle, the vibrant pattern repeats play up the boho style. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.lovecrochet.com

58 Inside Crochet

MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Special DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/ 295m/322yds Yarn A: Silver 1203 x 1 ball Yarn B: Pomegranate 1083 x 1 ball Yarn C: Spice 1711 x 1 ball Yarn D: Saffron 1081 x 1 ball Yarn E: Lime 1712 x 1 ball Yarn F: Aster 1003 x 1 ball Yarn G: Magenta 1084 x 1 ball Yarn H: Violet 1277 x 1 ball Yarn I: Cream 1005 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook ● Yarn needle

TENSION Work first three rounds to measure 9cm/3½in in diameter using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished blanket is 145cm/57in in diameter. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Laura is a craft editor and designer who has written several books of sewing, knitting and crochet. Visit her website at www.madepeachy.com. PATTERN NOTES This blanket is made with a rainbow-striped design; alternatively, you can work in colour blocks, but be sure to adjust yarn amounts accordingly. The increases are worked every fifth round, and 12 groups will be added on each increase round. Keep track of the row count so as to not lose your place in the pattern.

ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, 1ch, join with a sl st in third of 3ch. Rnd 7: Join in yarn G, 4ch, 3tr in next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to last ch-sp, 2tr in last ch-sp, join with a sl st in third of 4ch. Rnd 8: Join in yarn H, sl st in ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, 1ch, join with a sl st in third of 3ch. Rnd 9: Join in yarn I, 4ch, 3tr in next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to last ch-sp, 2tr in last ch-sp, join with a sl st in third of 4ch. Rnd 10: (Inc) Change to yarn A, sl st in ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch, (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp, 1ch, 3tr in next sp; rep from * to last ch-sp, 1ch (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in last ch-sp, 1ch, join with a sl st in third of 3ch – 36 x 3tr groups. Rnd 11: Change to yarn B, 4ch,

3tr in next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to last ch sp, 2tr in last ch-sp, join with a sl st in third of 4ch. Rnd 12: Change to yarn C, sl st in ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, 1ch, join with a sl st in third of 3ch. Cont in patt as set, rep colour block patt of yarns A–I until six full colour reps have been worked in total and at the same time working inc round every fifth round [working one more 3tr group between (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) increases on every inc round] – 132 x 3tr groups. Change to yarn A, work one more inc round as set – 144 x 3tr groups. Change to yarn I, work two rounds in patt as set. BORDER Rnd 1: Using a 4mm hook and yarn A, 1dc in each tr and ch-sp

to end, join with a sl st in first dc – 576dc. Rnd 2: 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in each dc to end, join with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off. FINISHING Weave in all ends and block as desired to neaten.

END

This colourful pattern is taken from Modern Crocheted Blankets, Throw s & Cushion s by Laura Strutt (CICO Books, £ 12.99). Photography by Em ma Mitchell © CICO Books.

BLANKET Using a 4mm hook and yarn A, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), 1tr into ring, [1ch, 2tr into the ring] five times, 1ch, join with a sl st in third of 3ch – 6 x 2tr groups. Rnd 2: Sl st in next st, join in yarn B, sl st in ch-sp, 3ch, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *1ch, (2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, 1ch, join with a sl st in third of 3ch – 12 x 2tr groups. Rnd 3: Sl st in next st, join in yarn C, sl st in ch-sp, 4ch (counts as 1tr, 1ch throughout), 3tr in next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, 1ch, 2tr in same ch-sp as first sl st, join with a sl st in third of 4ch – 12 x 3tr groups. Rnd 4: Join in yarn D, sl st in ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch, 3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of round, 1ch, join with a sl st in third of 3ch. Rnd 5: (Inc) Join in yarn E, 4ch, *(3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * to last ch-sp, (3tr, 1ch, 2tr) in last ch-sp, join with a sl st in third of 4ch – 24 x 3tr groups. Rnd 6: Join in yarn F, sl st in START

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 59

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Pattern instructions

Harlequin Shawl BY ALESSANDRA POGGIAGLIOLMI

Harlequin is the best-known character from the “Commedia dell’arte”, and is characterised by his chequered costume!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-soft yarn from www.wisebadger.com

MATERIALS ● Sirdar No 1, 50% acrylic/50% nylon, 100g/230m/251yds Yarn A: Haymeadow 222 x 1 ball Yarn B: Plum 216 x 1 ball Yarn C: Glow 204 x 1 ball Yarn D: Palm 219 x 1 ball Yarn E: Fog 213 x 1 ball Yarn F: Watermelon 218 x 1 ball Yarn G: Luna 201 x 1 ball Yarn H: Pure Scarlet 214 x 1 ball Yarn I: Rosebud 206 x 1 ball ● 4mm hook ● Stitch marker ● Blocking board or foam tiles

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Alessandra shares patterns and photo tutorials on her blog www. homemadeatmyplace.blogspot. com and posts frequently on Instagram @homemadeatmyplace.

YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight yarn blend to achieve a similar effect.

Strips are joined with a sl st. Both the first and last ten rows of each strip (on its left side) are not joined to the previous strip, but left free. Tip: When joining one strip to another, remember to pull the working yarn properly, to avoid gaps in the fabric.

TENSION Exact tension is not required for this piece. MEASUREMENTS After blocking, shawl measures approximately 250cm/98½in wide and 48cm/19in high. 62 Inside Crochet

PATTERN NOTES Increases and decreases are worked at the end of each row, but not at the same time. Shawl is worked from bottom to top, joining, one after the other, vertical strips of diamond motifs. These strips increase by one diamond each strip and are joined together as you work, no sewing is involved.

Turning ch does not count as a stitch.

SHAWL FIRST DIAMOND MOTIF/STRIP (D1) With 4mm hook and yarn A, 3ch. Row 1: (RS) 2tr in first ch, 2ch, turn – 2tr. Row 2: (WS) 1tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 3: 2tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 4tr. Row 4: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 5: 4tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 6tr. Row 6: 5tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 7tr. Row 7: 6tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 8tr. Row 8: 7tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 9tr. Row 9: 8tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 10tr. Row 10: 9tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 11tr (last inc). Row 11: (RS) 9tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 10tr (first dec). Row 12: (WS) 8tr, tr2tog, 2ch, START

turn – 9tr. Row 13: 7tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 8tr. Row 14: 6tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 7tr. Row 15: 5tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 6tr. Row 16: 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 17: 3tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 4tr. Row 18: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 19: 1tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 2tr. Row 20: Tr2tog – 1tr (last dec). Fasten off. PM on RS of this Diamond Motif. SECOND DIAMOND STRIP (2 DIAMONDS, D2) With yarn B, 3ch. Rows 1–10: Work as for Rows 1–10 of D1. With RS of D1 facing, join as folls: Row 11: (RS) 9tr, tr2tog (with joining) as folls: work first part of tr as usual, then yrh, insert hook in last st, yrh, pull through (4 lps on hook), sl st in base of D1 (ie same ch in which first 2tr of Row 1 of D1 is worked) pull yarn to front and through first lp (4 lps

250cm/ 98½in

48cm/ 19in

When joining diamonds together, diamond numbers and rows are referred to thus: D1/R1 = Row 1 of Diamond 1. D1/R2 = Row 2 of Diamond 1. And so on.

on hook), yrh, pull through next 2 lps, yrh, pull through last 3 lps (tr2tog is complete), sl st in first tr of D1/R1 (see Pattern Notes), 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R2, turn – 10tr. Row 12: (WS) 8tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 9tr. Row 13: 7tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D1/R3, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R4, turn – 8tr. Row 14: 6tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 7tr. Row 15: 5tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D1/R5, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R6, turn – 6tr. Row 16: 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 17: 3tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D1/R7, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R8, turn – 4tr. Row 18: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 19: 1tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D1/R9, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R10, turn – 2tr. Row 20: Tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 1tr. Row 21: (RS) 2tr in same st, sl st in first tr of D1/R11, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R12, turn – 2tr. Row 22: (WS) 1tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 23: 2tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D1/R13, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R14, turn – 4tr. Row 24: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 25: 4tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D1/R15, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R16, turn – 6tr. Row 26: 5tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 7tr. Row 27: 6tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D1/R17, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R18, turn – 8tr. Row 28: 7tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 9tr. Row 29: 8tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D1/R19, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R20, turn – 10tr. Row 30: 9tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 11tr – last inc and last joining. Rows 31–40: Follow patt as in D1 from Row 11 to Row 20 inclusive. Fasten off without working last 2ch.

THIRD DIAMOND STRIP (3 DIAMONDS, D3) With yarn C, 3ch. Work patt as given for D2, from Rows 1–30, substituting D1 with D2. Row 31: (RS) 9tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D2/R21, 2ch, sl st in top of first tr of D2/R22, turn – 10tr. Row 32: (WS) 8tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 9tr. Row 33: 7tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D2/R23, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R24, turn – 8tr. Row 34: 6tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 7tr. Row 35: 5tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D2/R25, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R26, turn – 6tr. Row 36: 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 37: 3tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D2/R27, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R28, turn – 4tr. Row 38: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 39: 1tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D2/R29, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R30, turn – 2tr. Row 40: Tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 1tr. Row 41: (RS) 2tr in same st, sl st in first tr of D2/R31, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R32, turn – 2tr. Row 42: (WS) 1tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 43: 2tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D2/R33, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R34, turn – 4tr. Row 44: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 45: 4tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D2/R35, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R36, turn – 6tr. Row 46: 5tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 7tr. Row 47: 6tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D2/R37, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R38, turn – 8tr. Row 48: 7tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 9tr. Row 49: 8tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D2/R39, 2ch, sl st in first tr of D2/R40, turn – 10tr. Row 50: 9tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 11tr, last inc and last joining. Rows 51–60: Foll patt as in D1 www.insidecrochet.co.uk 63

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Pattern instructions

from Row 11 to Row 20 inclusive. Fasten off without working last 2ch. Cont as set for foll strips: Fourth Diamond Strip (4 diamonds, D4): Work a total of 80 rows with yarn D; 60 rows joined to D3. Fifth Diamond Strip (5 diamonds, D5): Work a total of 100 rows with yarn E; 80 rows joined to D4. Sixth Diamond Strip (6 diamonds, D6): Work a total of 120 rows with yarn F; 100 rows joined to D5. Seventh Diamond Strip (7 diamonds, D7): Work a total of 140 rows with yarn A; 120 rows joined to D6. Eighth Diamond Strip (8 diamonds, D8): Work a total of 160 rows with yarn B; 140 rows joined to D7. Ninth Diamond Strip (9 diamonds, D9): Work a total of 180 rows with yarn C; 160 rows joined to D8. Tenth Diamond Strip (10 diamonds, D10): Work a total of 200 rows with yarn D; 180 rows joined to D9. Eleventh Diamond Strip (11 diamonds, D11): Work a total of 220 rows with yarn G; 200 rows joined to D10. Twelfth Half Diamond Strip (12 half diamonds, D12): Both incs and decs are worked only on RS. With yarn H, 3ch. Row 1: (RS) 2tr in first ch, 2ch, turn – 2tr. Row 2: (WS) 2tr, 2ch, turn. Row 3: 1tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 4: 3tr, 2ch, turn. Row 5: 2tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 4tr. Row 6: 4tr, 2ch, turn. Row 7: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 8: 5tr, 2ch, turn. Row 9: 4tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn – 6tr. Row 10: 6tr, 2ch, turn. *Row 11: (RS) 4tr, tr2tog (with joining) as folls: work first part of tr as usual, yrh, insert hook in last st, yrh, pull through (4 lps on hook), sl st in base of D1 in same ch of first 2tr of D11/R1) pulling yarn to front and through first lp 64 Inside Crochet

(4 lps on hook), yrh, pull through next 2 lps, yrh, pull through last 3 lps (tr2tog complete), sl st in top of first tr of D11/R1, 2ch, sl st in top of first tr of D11/R2, turn – 5tr. Row 12: (WS) 5tr, 2ch, turn. Row 13: 3tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D11/R3 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R4 turn – 4tr. Row 14: 4tr, 2ch, turn. Row 15: 2tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D11/R5 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R6 turn – 3tr. Row 16: 3tr, 2ch, turn. Row 17: 1tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D11/R7 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R8 turn – 2tr. Row 18: 2tr, 2ch, turn. Row 19: tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D11/R9 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/ R10 turn – 1tr. Row 20: 1tr, 2ch, turn. Row 21: (RS) 2tr in same st, sl st in first tr of D11/R11 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R12 turn – 2tr. Row 22: (WS) 2tr, 2ch, turn. Row 23: 1tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D11/R13 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R14 turn – 3tr. Row 24: 3tr, 2ch, turn. Row 25: 2tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D11/R15 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R16 turn – 4tr. Row 26: 4tr, 2ch, turn. Row 27: 3tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D11/R17 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R18 turn – 5tr. Row 28: 5tr, 2ch, turn. Row 29: 4tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in first tr of D11/R19 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R20 turn – 6tr. Row 30: 6tr, 2ch, turn. Row 31: 4tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr of D11/R21 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/R22 turn – 5tr. Rep from * to end of Row 30 ten more times, paying attention not to rep Row 11 as worked the first time, but foll Row 31 instead (as above). Joining is complete at end of Row 230. Row 231: (RS) 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 5tr. Row 232: (WS) 5tr, 2ch, turn. Row 233: 3tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 4tr. Row 234: 4tr, 2ch, turn. Row 235: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 3tr. Row 236: 3tr, 2ch, turn. Row 237: 1tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 2tr.

Row 238: 2tr, 2ch, turn. Row 239: tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 1tr. Row 240: 1tr, do not fasten off, turn to RS. EDGING Rnd 1: Cont with same yarn, 1ch, work along side A working 2dc around each tr post (240dc worked by bottom point of shawl), 3ch, work 240dc along side B, 3ch, sl st in in first sp of first post of side C (shawl top), 1ch, 1dc in same sp, work 2dc along each tr post along side (total 480dc). When last dc is completed, 3ch, sl st in first dc, pulling to the front yarn I. Break off yarn H. Rnd 2: 1ch, 1dc in same st, 1dc in each dc and 3dc in each 3ch-sp, sl st in top of first dc to join, change to yarn C, break off yarn I. Rnd 3: 1ch, [(1dc, 3ch, 1dc) in same st, miss 1 st] to end, sl st in

top of first dc. Fasten off and weave in all ends. BLOCKING Pin shawl on a blocking board or foam tiles. Try to stretch the diamonds in neat horizontal stripes. Spray with water and leave to dry properly. TASSELS Make three Wrap all yarn shades around a book, approximately 21cm/8¼in (height) x 2cm/¾in (depth)] six times. Cut yarns at bottom of book. Choose a main colour (yarn B in sample), cut three pieces of 30cm/12in each to knot on top of tassel and to form two necks and so two bobbles (the tassel has two “heads” instead of just one). Trim tassel to desired length and knot one at bottom of END shawl and one in each corner.

MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Life DK, 75% acrylic/25% wool, 100g/298m/326yds Yarn A: Cream 2305 x 3 balls ● Stylecraft Batik DK, 80% acrylic/20% wool, 50g/138m/151yds Yarn B: Old Gold 1902 x 1 ball Yarn C: Coral 1903 x 1 ball Yarn D: Cherry 1904 x 1 ball Yarn E: Raspberry 1905 x 1 ball Yarn F: Heather 1906 x 1 ball Yarn G: Sage 1908 x 1 ball Yarn H: Violet 1912 x 1 ball Yarn I: Indigo 1914 x 1 ball Yarn J: Rose 1916 x 1 ball Yarn K: Mint 1918 x 1 ball Yarn L: Lupin 1919 x 1 ball ● 3.5mm hook ● Yarn needle

block and place hook in next 3ch-sp. Pick up new colour, pull through the ch-sp to complete sl st and cont. Colour changes, especially at the beginning of rows, tail across the block of the work. Don’t worry about these tails – you can crochet over them. Rearrange the balls/bobbins of yarn after each row. Leave balls/bobbins attached until the section is finished. Alternatively, if all the changes are too challenging, work pattern as 80 individual 8 x 8 blocks, each made up of two colours. 1 block = 3ch and 3tr.

YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work an 8 block square to measure 13 x 13 cm/5¼ x 5¼in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Length: 142cm/56in. Width: 106cm/42in.

Circus Patchwork Blanket BY EMMA VARNAM

This graphic pattern has all the vintage feel of a classic patchwork quilt, but is made using the corner-to-corner technique.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy these colourful yarns from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Emma has been designing stylish knitting and crochet patterns for over a decade. Her blog www.emmavarnam. co.uk features many of her free patterns and the inspiration behind them. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @EmmaVarnamUK and on Facebook as Emma Varnam Designs. PATTERN NOTES This pattern can be worked in two ways: You can work the whole blanket in one piece as shown using the chart overleaf. In some places the same colour of yarn is used multiple times per row. For coloured triangles prepare 10g small balls/bobbins of yarn in advance. Use one of yarn A for each section. Work the colour chart from the bottom right corner. When changing colour finish one

BLANKET With 3.5mm hook and yarn D, 6ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, turn – 1 Block. Row 2: Join yarn A, 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, change to yarn D, (sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of previous row, turn – 2 Blocks. Row 3: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, (sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of previous row, change to yarn A, (sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of previous row, turn – 3 Blocks. START

Row 3 forms pattern row, increasing by one Block each row. Working colour changes as indicated on the chart, repeat Row 3 61 times more. Row 65: As Row 3, ending with sl st in last 3ch-sp (do not make last block), turn. Row 66: (Dec) Sl st along next 3 sts and in first 3ch-sp, patt to end of row making blocks as Row 3 in each 3ch-sp to end, turn. Row 67: As Row 65. Row 68: As Row 66. Rep last two rows six times more. Row 81–143: (Dec) Sl st along next 3 sts and in first 3ch-sp, patt to end of row, ending with sl st in last 3ch-sp to end, turn. Last Row: Sl st across last 3 sts and in the corner. Fasten off and sew in ends. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 65

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Pattern instructions

ALTERNATIVE PATTERN If you are finding working the full width of the blanket difficult you can alternatively make 80 separate squares, each worked half in yarn A and half in another colour. Using the chart as your guide you can then arrange your blocks in the zig-zag pattern and whipstitch the squares together.

making blocks as Row 3 in each 3ch-sp to end, turn. Row 10: Sl st along next 3 sts and in first 3ch-sp, patt to end of row, ending with sl st in last 3chsp to end, turn. Rep Row 10 five times more. Last Row: Sl st across last 3 sts and into the corner. Fasten off and sew in ends.

With 3.5mm hook and yarn D, 6ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, turn – 1 Block. Row 2: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, (sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of previous row, turn – 2 blocks. Row 3: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, *(sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of previous row; rep from * across, turn – 3 blocks.

Using the chart as a guide arrange blocks of colour in zig-zag patchwork pattern and whip-stitch squares tog.

Row 3 forms pattern row, increasing by one Block each row. Working colour change as indicated, rep Row 3 five times more. Fasten off yarn D. Row 9: (Dec) Join yarn A in first 3ch-sp, patt to end of row

In order to make the patchwork pattern, make the following number of blocks using yarn A and the following contrasting colour: Yarn B: Gold x 11. Yarn C: Coral x 8. Yarn D: Cherry x 7. Yarn E: Raspberry x 6. Yarn F: Heather x 5. Yarn G: Sage x 6. Yarn H: Violet x 8. Yarn I: Indigo x 6. Yarn J: Rose x 7. Yarn K: Mint x 8. Yarn L: Lupin x 8.

END

CORNER TO CORNER The corner to corner technique can seem a bit daunting. But there are just a few things you need to remember. Generally you work from the bottom right corner of the diagram and work in diagonal rows of blocks. Each block is made up of 3 chains and three trebles. The blocks attach by slip stitching to the 3ch of blocks from the previous row. You can increase by adding a new block at the beginning of each row.

66 Inside Crochet

To begin your C2C crochet, work 6ch, work 1tr in the fourth chain from the hook and then work 1tr in each of the next two stitches. One block is made. Turn the block and work 6ch again. Two blocks are needed in Row 2, one is the increase and the other will be made in the 3ch-sp of the block from Row 1. You simply increase the rows one block at a time until you get the size you need.

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Cherry Coral Violet Raspberry

Life Cream Gold Lupin Indigo

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Mint Rose Heather Sage

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 67

➻

MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Happy Heart Garland Set BY SUE RAWLINSON

A simple garland that can be made in an evening, perfect for brightening up any wall, hanging over your bed, or turning into pretty accessories.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure cotton yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MATERIALS ● DMC Natura XL, 100% cotton, 100g/75m/82yds Yarn A: Ecru 03 x 1 ball Yarn B: Mer de Sud 87 x 1 ball Yarn C: Bonbon 40 x 1 ball Yarn D: Fuchsia 43 x 1 ball Yarn E: Chartreuse Green 80 x 1 ball Yarn F: Purple 6 x 1 ball ● 6mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Jewellery findings as desired – earring hoops, keyrings etc. YARN ALTERNATIVES Use any other super chunky cotton yarn, or for smaller hearts any other cotton yarn – remembering to go down in hook size as on yarn band. TENSION Exact tension is not essential for this project. MEASUREMENTS Heart width: 0.5cm/¼in. Length of garland: 4m/4½yds. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Sue lives in the North West of England. You can follow her journey on Instagram @sweetpeafamilycrochet and at www.sweetpeafamilyblog. wordpress.com.

68 Inside Crochet

PATTERN NOTES Shorter garlands can be made by reducing the number of heart motifs; garlands can be made using 15 hearts to measure approximately 1.9m/2yds or with 20 hearts to measure approximately 2.4m/2.6yds.

The heart motif can be used to make other projects – for example, add a brooch back to made a little brooch, add earring wires to make a pair of heart earrings and sew three together to make a keyring. HEART MOTIF Make 36, six in each shade With 6mm hook, make an START

Always work 10ch interval between each heart.

adjustable ring. Rnd 1: (3ch, 5tr, 1dtr, 5tr, 3ch, sl st) in ring. Cut yarn and fasten off. Pull starting tail tightly to close ring and form heart shape. Darn in yarn tails to neaten. GARLAND With 6mm hook and yarn A, 30ch, insert hook in centre of

one heart from front to back and join with 1dc, 10ch, [attach a different coloured heart with 1dc, 10ch] rep until one of each different coloured heart has been attached. Cont as set working this colour repetition until all 36 hearts have been joined, 30ch, cut yarn and fasten END off neatly.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 69

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INTRODUCING

TH E B UT TER FLY EFFEC T This beautiful, intricate square is sure to keep you on your toes. Just like the life of a butterfly it changes and evolves. This is the Butterfly Effect… Pattern by KELA AHNHEM AKA CROCHETINGKAY

W

e are so pleased to be introducing you to the first part of the first ever CAL by SistersInStitch – and are delighted that they have agreed to share part one of this stunningly detailed blanket with Inside Crochet readers. This exclusive first look at Kela Ahnhem’s new pattern is also the perfect way to explore the myriad shades of Yarn and Colors Must Have and Epic yarns. With beautiful colours and a delicate, intricate and ever-changing pattern, Swedish designer Kela Ahnhem’s new blanket crochet-along, The Butterfly Effect, introduces new stitches for experienced crocheters and presents an exciting challenge for the novice hooker. This ten-part CAL was first conceived in the spring of last year, and along with Kela’s design partner Therese, the pair – as SistersInStitch – have produced a pretty blanket that explores colour and texture.

72 Inside Crochet

THE DESIGN TEAM Kela Ahnhem is the designer behind The Butterfly Effect, and lives in Sweden. Also known as crochetingkay, she is originally a songwriter, and creativity and pushing boundaries is part of Kela’s daily life. Even though she has not been crocheting for very long – or designing for that matter! – Kela loves crochet so much that she recently went into business with another designer, Therese Eghult, and created SistersInStitch. Therese Eghult is also a crochet designer based in Sweden. For The Butterfly Effect, Therese (better known as crochetedbytess) has created the BE Future colourway. While Kela has been designing, Therese has been busy behind the scenes, testing the pattern and more. “There is so much more than just designing when it comes to a CAL, this has truly been a team effort.” SistersInStitch host live videos and debates on Instagram (Sip Stitch Live), and document their crocheting, creativity, motherhood and business with The Sip Stitch Podcast. The Butterfly Effect is their first CAL and they are hoping to take people on an unforgettable journey. With a forum on their homepage, video tutorials

W IN ! ur pa ck a B E Pre se nt col o We ’re giv ing aw ay ya rn ave H ust M s lor of Ya rn a nd Co . n B ut te r fly Ef fe c t to cre ate yo ur ow eti tio ns mp /co .uk o t.c che Vis it w w w.i nsi de cro

To follow the SistersInStitch CAL and grow your square into a full blanket, follow their online journey at www.sistersinstitch.com/cal

B U Y YAR N PAC KS H ER E: shop. siste rsinstitch .com ya rna ndcolors .com

PART ONE BEGINS THE STORY… “FROM DEEP WITHIN THE SOUL AND SOMEWHERE IN THE HEART, THERE WAS THE TINIEST OF RUMBLES AND A MILLION TINY SPARKS. TURNING NOTHING INTO SOMETHING. THIS WAS JUST THE START, AND WHEN IT ALL WAS FINISHED IT SPLIT UP INTO TEN DIFFERENT PARTS.”

and step-by-step pictures, along with full charts for every step of the CAL, they encourage anyone to join in the fun.

THE CREATIVE JOURNEY “When I started creating the Butterfly Effect, I didn’t know what I was doing. I had no plan, no real idea except for the fact that I wanted to prove to myself that I too could make a beautiful contemporary granny square,” says Kela. “This motivation had all grown out of the fact that I had not been completely happy with the squares that I had entered in a granny square contest.” Our editor Claire Montgomerie saw the first nine or so rounds of Kela’s design and fell in love with it, and over the coming months Kela would contact Yarn and Colors to devise a plan for a CAL. “Never in a million years did I expect that this design would end up where it is now, as a CAL or even that I would turn it into a whole blanket,” Kela adds. “The blanket is like a fairy tale and it takes you on a journey; I let the yarn guide me and simply let my imagination run wild.” A trip to Amsterdam to meet with Yarn and Colors and hours of work led to the final pattern, which is shared in ten parts over the duration of the CAL. “Getting the opportunity to

share this pattern and this whole experience with the rest of the crocheting community is just beyond amazing and hopefully it won’t disappoint.” Three yarn packs by Yarn and Colors have been produced to create different colourways: BE Past, BE Present and BE Future, and depending on the yarn you select (Must Have or Epic), there are two sizes. What appeals to a lot of crocheters is the mindful way the stitches are placed, and our exclusive chart will be there to support anybody attempting a more challenging pattern for the first time. And although the yarn packs are both cotton yarn, there’s no reason not to explore other natural fibres from the Yarn and Colors range. For extra help with the pattern, SistersInStitch will be sharing videos on their homepage and YouTube channel. We’d love to see your progress on the blanket, so don’t forget to tag us in your makes and add # m y insidecrochet and #thebutterflyeffectCAL2019 to your posts. While you’ll find part one of the crochet-along right here in Inside Crochet, you can learn all about the following parts of the CAL here: www.sistersinstitch.com/cal

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 73

16 17

14

13

15 12

11 10 9

8

7 6 5

4 3 2 1

MATERIALS ● Yarn and Colors Must-Have, 100% cotton, 50g/125m/137yds Yarn A: Sunflower 014 x 1 ball Yarn B: Cantaloupe 016 x 1 ball Yarn C: Girly Pink 035 x 1 ball Yarn D: White 001 x 1 ball Yarn E: Blossom 045 x 1 ball Yarn F: Eucalyptus 080 x 1 ball Yarn G: Teak 008 x 1 ball ● 3.5mm hook

using Yarn and Colors Epic in Shark Grey or Ice Blue.

TENSION Work first 9 rounds to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

SPECIAL STITCHES 3trCL: Tr3tog in same stitch. 2trCL: Tr2tog in same stitch.

MEASUREMENTS Finished square is 20 x 20cm/ 8 x 8in.

YARN ALTERNATIVES

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY

This project also looks great worked in a single colour – try

Kela Ahnhem is a crochet designer based in Stockholm.

74 Inside Crochet

Stay in the loop and see what she’s up to! Find her on Instagram @crochetingkay or visit her website with Therese Eghult at www.sistersinstitch.com.

V2: (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in same stitch. Bpsl-st: Sl st worked as a raised back stitch. Popcorn: 5tr in same st, remove hook, insert hook back in first of

5 tr and pick up working loop, pull loop through and close with 1ch (this 1ch does not count as a st). Toffee Popcorn: Work as for Popcorn but change to second colour on last pull through of second tr, change back to first colour on last pull through of third tr. Picot A: Worked with sl st placed in first ch of picot. Number of chains are written like this: picot1a, picot2a, picot3a etc. Picot B: Worked with sl st placed in st below, through both legs. Number of chains written as

crochet (htr)

16

chain stitch slip stitch back loop/chain

14 15

13

double crochet (dc)

12

half treble crochet (htr)

11

treble crochet (tr)

10

rdcf

9

rdcb

8

7 6 5 4 3 2 1

rhtrf rhtfb rtrf rtfb

Picot 2tr Cluster long dc Picot 2trCluster 3trCluster Toffee Popcorn

above: picot1b, picot2b, picot3b etc. Long dc: Like a normal dc just placed further down in the pattern, creating a longer st.

yarn with a sl st and 1ch (here called first), continue to next st (here called second) – at end of rnd make an invisible join in second st, therefore turning first st into a complete dc:

PATTERN NOTES Unless otherwise stated in the pattern, all raised sts are made around the body of the stitch, around the vertical post not just around the top stitch. All rounds are started so that they can be finished with an invisible join. For instance, where a round starts with a dc, start by attaching

tch h crochet (dc)

le crochet (htr)

Starting with dc: Sl st, 1ch. Starting with htr: Sl st, 1ch. Starting with tr: Sl st, 2ch.

rhtrfAt start of each round work 1ch for first dc, 2ch for first htr, 3ch

rhtfbfor first tr etc.

rtrf rtfb

and continue to next round – be sure to follow the stitch count. If changing colours after each round, fasten threads after each round to avoid having to fasten too many threads at the end. However, as there are several rounds involving back and front post sts be sure not to fasten threads so they interrupt the next round. Instead, fasten them a round or two later.

If making the pattern in just one colour, sl st to finish each round

When working in blo, try to use the third st in the back to make work secure.

Block work to ensure the beauty of it comes through. Block after Rnd 17 as this round might feel a bit crowded – don’t worry, this will sort itself out!

SQUARE ONE With yarn A make an adjustable ring. 1ch, 8dc in ring, sl st in first dc – 8dc. Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as first part of 3trCl), 2trCl in same dc, 2ch, (3trCl in next dc, 2ch) seven times, sl st to join – 8 Clusters, 8 2ch-sps. Rnd 2: With yarn B [rdcf around START

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 75

8htr, 8rhtrf, 8rdcf, 4 2ch-sps, 60dc (per side: 4tr, 2rtrf, 2htr, 2rhtrf, 2rdcf, 15dc). Rnd 9: With yarn E, start in any corner 2ch-sp, *(1htr, 2ch, 1htr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1rtrb in each of next 4 sts, miss 1rhtrf, 1rtrb in each of next 6 dc, miss rdcf, 1rtrb in next dc, 1tr in picot3 from Rnd 5, miss 1dc, 1rtrb in next dc, miss rdcf, 1 rtrb in each of next 6 dc, miss rhtrf, 1rtrb in each of next 4 sts; rep from * to end – 8htr, 4 2ch-sps, 4 tr, 88rtrb (per side: 2htr, 2ch, 1tr, 22rtrb). Rnd 10: With yarn D, start in any corner 2ch-sp, *(1htr, 1tr, 2ch, 1tr, 1htr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1dc in each of next 8 sts, 1htr, 1rdtrf around rtrf from Rnd 7, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, 3tr in next rtrb, (1tr, picot3a, 1tr) in next st, 3tr in next rtrb, 1tr in next st, 1rdtrf around rtrf from Rnd 7, miss 1tr, 1htr, 1dc in each of next 8 sts; rep from * to end – 16htr, 48tr, 64dc, 4 2ch-sps, 4picot3a, 8rdtrf (per side: 4htr, 12tr, 16dc, 2ch, 1picot3, 2rdtrf).

tr3tog cl, 2dc in next ch-sp] eight times – 16dc, 8rdcf. Rnd 3: With yarn C, start in any rdcf, *1htr, 2tr in next dc, 2ch, 2tr in next dc, 1htr, 1dc, 1ch, 1dc; rep from * to end – 16tr, 8htr, 8dc, 4 2ch-sps, 4 1ch-sps. Rnd 4: With yarn D, start in any 1ch-sp, *(1htr, 2tr, 2ch, 2tr, 1htr) in next ch-sp, miss 1dc, 1rdcb in each of next 3 sts, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 1rdcb in each of next 3 sts, miss 1dc; rep from * to end – 16tr, 8htr, 8dc, 8 2ch-sps, 24rdcb. Rnd 5: With yarn E, start in any corner 2ch-sp (ie between 2dc),

76 Inside Crochet

*(1htr, 2tr, picot3a, 2tr, 1htr), miss 1dc, 1rhtrb in each of next 4 sts, 1rdcb in each of next 2 sts, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 1rdcb in each of next 2 sts, 1rhtrb in each of next 4 sts, miss 1dc; rep from * to end – 16tr, 8htr, 8dc, 16rdcb, 32rhtrb, 4 2ch-sps, 4 picot3a. Rnd 6: With yarn D, start in any 2ch-sp from Rnd 3 *1rtrf around 2ch from Rnd 3, 4ch, 1rtrf around same 2ch, push 4 ch behind corner/picot3a from Rnd 5, 4ch, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp from Rnd 5, 4ch; rep from * to end – 8rtrf, 8tr, 12 4ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps.

Rnd 7: With yarn A, start in any 2ch-sp, *(2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL, 2ch, 2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL) in same 2ch-sp, 4ch, 1rdcf around rtrf from Rnd 6, 3ch, 1rdcf around next rtrf, (place 3 ch behind as with 4 ch from Rnd 6), 4ch; rep from * to end – 16 2trCL, 8 rdcf, 8 1ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps, 4 3ch-sps, 8 4ch-sps. Rnd 8: With yarn C, start in any corner 2ch-sp, *(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in next 2ch-sp, 1rtrf around 2trCL, 1htr in next ch-sp, 1rhtrf around 2trCL, 6dc in 4ch-sp, 1rdcf around rdcf, 3dc in 3ch-sp, 1rdcf around rdcf, 6dc in next 4ch-sp, 1rhtrf, 1htr, 1rtrf around 2trCL; rep from * to end – 16tr, 8rtrf,

Rnd 11: With yarn B, start in any corner 2ch-sp, *(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1rtrb, 1rhtrb, 1rdcb in each of next 8 sts, 1ch, miss next htr and next rdtrf, 1rdcb in next tr, 1rhtrb in next tr, 1rtrb in each of next 6 tr, 1rhtrb in next tr, 1rdcb in next tr, 1ch, miss 2 sts, 1rdcb in each of next 8 sts, 1rhtrb in next htr, 1rtrb in next tr; rep from * to end – 32rtrb, 16rhtrb, 72 rdcb, 8 1ch-sps, 2 2ch-sps, 16tr (per side: 8rtrb, 4rhtrb, 18rdcb, 2 1ch-sps, 2ch, 4tr). Rnd 12: With yarn A, start in any corner 2ch-sp (Note: In this rnd work only in ch-sps and miss all other sts): *(2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL, 2ch, 2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL) in corner 2ch-sp, 6ch, miss 11 sts, (2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL) in next 1ch-sp, 5ch, (2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL) in next 1ch-sp, 6ch, miss 11 sts; rep from * to end – 32 2trCL, 16 1ch-sps,

8 6ch-sps, 4 5ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps (per side: 8 2trCL, 4 1ch-sps, 2 6ch-sps, 1 5ch-sp, 2ch). Rnd 13: With yarn C, start in any corner 2ch-sp, *(2tr, 1dtr, 2ch, 1dtr, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL, (4tr, 1dtr, 1ch, 1dtr, 4tr) in 6ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL, now work into sts in Rnd 11 behind 5ch of Rnd 12, miss 2 sts from Rnd 11, 1rdcb in next rtrb, [1tr in 5ch-sp, 1rtrb in next rtrb from Rnd 11] twice, (1dtr, picot3a, 1dtr) in back of next ch, [1rtrb in next rtrb from Rnd 11, 1tr in back ch] twice, 1rdcb in Rnd 11, cont working in sts in Rnd 12 working 1rtrf around next 2trCL, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL, (4tr, 1dtr, 1ch, 1dtr, 4tr) in 6ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL; rep from * to end – 32rtrf, 112tr, 32dtr, 8rdcb, 16rtrb, 4picot3a, 8 1ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps (per side: 8rtrf, 28tr, 8dtr, 2rdcb, 4rtrb, 1picot3, 2 1ch-sps, 2ch). Rnd 14: With yarn C, start in any corner 2ch-sp (Note: This rnd creates ch-sps on back of work that will be worked in later), *(sl st, 3ch, sl st) in corner 2ch-sp, 3ch, miss 1 dtr, [bpsl-st in next tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts] three times, bpsl-st in next dtr, 2ch, miss 1ch-sp, bpsl-st in next dtr, [2ch, miss 2 sts, bpsl-st in next tr,] twice, 2ch, miss next 4 sts, bpsl-st in next tr, 3ch, miss next 4 sts and picot3a, bpsl-st in next tr, 2ch, miss 4 next sts, [bpslst in next tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts] twice, bpsl-st in next dtr, 2ch, miss 1chsp, bpsl-st in next dtr, [2ch, miss 2 sts, bpsl-st in next tr] three times, 3ch, miss 1dtr; rep from * to end – 64 bpsl-st, 56 2ch-sps, 8 3ch-sps (per side: 16 bpsl-st, 14 2ch-sps, 2 3ch-sps, 2 sl sts). Rnd 15: With yarn F, working in ch-sp made from Rnd 14 only

(unless clearly stated in patt) start in a 2ch-sp three ch-sps before a corner 2ch-sp, attach yarn with (sl st, 1ch, 1dc) in same 2ch-sp, *(sl st, 2ch, 1tr, 1dtr) in next 2ch-sp, tr2tog working first tr in same 2ch-sp and second in next 3ch-sp, (1htr, 1dc, 3htr) in same 3ch-sp, rdcf around sl st between ch-sps, (3htr, 1tr, 3htr) in corner 3ch-sp, rdcf around sl st between ch-sps, (3htr, 1dc, 1htr) in next 3ch-sp, tr2tog working first tr in same 3ch-sp and second in next 2ch-sp, (1dtr, 1tr, 2ch, sl st) in same 2ch-sp as tr2tog, [3dc in next 2ch-sp] five times, (2tr, 1htr, 1dc) in next 2ch-sp, (1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) in next 3ch-sp, (1dc, 1htr, 2tr) in next 2ch-sp, [3dc in next 2ch-sp] five times; rep from * to end omitting 2dc on last side – per side: 2 sl sts, 2 2ch-sps, 9tr, 2dtr, 2tr2tog, 18htr, 36dc, 2rdcf, 1ch-sp. Rnd 16: In this round some bpsl-sts will be placed around sl st from Rnd 14 and made behind the work whilst working on RS. Cut yarn A after each toffee popcorn. With yarns E and A, attach yarns from WS with sl st around bpsl-st from Rnd 14 (where rdcf is worked in previous round). Start with yarn E, 3ch, toffee popcorn (working middle st in yarn A), around the corner ch from Rnd 13 in front of Rnd 15, 3ch, sl st from behind in sl st from Rnd 14 on other side of corner, 5ch, place this ch behind work and sl st in first of 15 dc, [picot3a, sl st in each of next two sts] three times, picot6a, miss 1dc, [sl st in each of next two sts, picot3a] three times, sl st in last of 15 dc, 3ch, sl st behind work in bpsl-st before 3ch-sp, 4ch, toffee popcorn between rtrb 3 and 4 from Rnd 11, 4ch, sl st behind work in bpsl-st after 3ch-sp, 3ch, sl st in first of 15 dc, [picot3a, sl st in each of next two sts] three times, picot6a, miss 1dc, [sl st

in each of next two sts, picot3a] three times, sl st, 5ch; rep from * to end – per side: 4 3ch-sps, 2 5ch-sps, 12 picot3a, 2 picot6a, 2 toffee popcorn, 2 4ch-sps, 4 bpsl-sts, 28 sl sts. Rnd 17: Using yarn F, this round will be crocheted into Rnd 15, missing all of the sts from Rnd 16 EXCEPT for ch connecting to toffee popcorn from Rnd 16 where you will crochet around both the ch AND the st from Rnd 15. Start by making a sl st in blo in st before last picot3a before a corner – this will be a st where you did a sl st in Rnd 16, *(2htr, tr, picot2b) in 2ch-sp, 1tr, 1htr, long dc around tr2tog, 1htr in each of next two sts, (1tr, picot2b, 1tr) in next htr, 1htr, 1dc, miss 1 st (you should now be right before the ch reaching from the back down to the corner toffee popcorn), crochet around the ch and into st working 1sl st, 1htr, 1tr, (2tr, rtrf round toffee popcorn, picot2b, 2tr), 1tr, 1htr, 1sl st (corner mid leaf), miss 1 st, 1dc, 1htr, (1tr, picot2b, 1tr), 1htr in each of next two sts, long dc around tr2tog, 1htr, 1tr, picot2b, (1tr, 2htr) in 2ch-sp, sl st in blo after first picot3a (whole corner leaf bunch complete). For the next part you will crochet around the small picot row from Rnd 16, creating green around them and making them pop up like buds. You will be crocheting in front of them with tr2tog and making small chains to go behind them. Don’t worry if the buds are not placed right when you do this, when you have completed the green you push them through the little spaces created in front of each. There should be an attachment point where you made the chains in Rnd 14 and this is where you place the tr, except for the mid picot6a where

you place them in ch-sp from Rnd 13. 1ch, 1tr in front of first picot3a, 2ch, [tr2tog working in front of same picot3a and in front of next one, 2ch,] twice, tr2tog in front of third picot3a and in ch-sp in front of picot6a, 3ch, tr2tog in same ch-sp and in front of fifth picot3a, 2ch, [tr2tog, 2ch] twice, 1tr in front of sixth picot3a, 1ch, sl st in blo to the right behind last picot, 1ch. Push little buds through the space in front of so that 2ch and 3ch are behind them – flower bud section to the right complete. (1dc, 2tr, picot2b, 1htr), 1htr in each of next 2 sts, 1dc, (push the ch to the right and miss it so that is it still visible from RS), 1sl st, 2htr in each of next two sts, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 1ch-sp, 2htr in each of next two sts, 1sl st, (push the ch again to your right and crochet over that), 1dc, 1htr in each of next 2 sts, (1htr, 1tr, picot2b, 1tr, 1dc), 1ch, 1sl st in blo behind first picot3a on next flower bud section, 1ch – middle leaf bunch complete. 1tr in front of first picot3a, 2ch, [tr2tog working in front of same picot3a and in front of next one, 2ch,] twice, tr2tog in front of third picot3a and in ch-sp in front of picot6a, 3ch, tr2tog in same ch-sp and in front of fifth picot3a, 2ch, [tr2tog, 2ch] twice, 1tr in front of sixth picot3a, 1ch, sl st in blo to right behind last picot. Push little buds through the space in front of them so that 2ch and 3ch are behind them – flower bud section to the left done. Rep from * till end – per side: 5 1ch-sps, 26htr, 21dc, 7 picot2b, 2 long dc, 6dc, 8 sl sts, END 3 rtrf, 13 2ch-sps, 12 tr2tog, 2 3ch-sps.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 77

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Kate Selene Squish Sock, 75% Merino wool/25% nylon, 100g/425m/465yds Yarn A: Mint 100s and 1000s x 1 skein Yarn B: Pink 100s and 1000s x 1 skein ● 4mm hook YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any 4ply sock yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Exact tension is not critical for this design. Work 5tr-cl and 4ch-sp and 8 rows in pattern, before blocking, to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Before blocking: 120cm/47in x 60cm/23½in. After blocking: 128cm/50in x 64cm/25in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Sarah-Jane enjoys designing in her spare time. She loves being inventive with crochet and likes her designs to be simple, fun and quirky and most of all make people smile. Find her on Instagram @flo_and_dot. PATTERN NOTES 3ch counts as 1tr throughout. Treble cluster (tr-cl) is made up of 3tr for main shawl, 2tr for edging and is worked in ch-sp. Ch-sp is made up of 2ch between 2tr-cl.

Hundreds & Thousands Shawl BY SARAH-JANE HICKS

A sweet shawl in simple granny stitches, this is a perfect design for your favourite hand-dyed yarn. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this hand-dyed yarn from www.bykateselene.etsy.com

78 Inside Crochet

SHAWL Using yarn A and 4mm hook, 4ch, sl st in first ch to form a ring. Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1 st here and throughout), in ring work 2tr, [2ch, 3tr] twice, turn – 3tr-cl, 2ch-sp. Row 2: 5ch (counts as 1tr, 2ch here and throughout), [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] twice, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 4tr-cl, 5ch-sp, 2tr. Row 3: 3ch, 2tr in ch-sp, [2ch, 3tr in ch-sp] to end, turn – 5tr-cl, 4ch-sp. Row 4: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] four times, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 8tr-cl, 9ch-sp, 2tr. Row 5: Rep Row 3 – 9tr-cl, 8ch-sp. START

64cm/ 25in (after blocking)

128cm/50in (after blocking)

Row 24: 5ch, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch] twice, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch, (3tr in ch-sp, 2ch) twice] ten times, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 42tr-cl, 43ch-sp, 2tr. Row 25: Rep Row 3 – 43tr-cl, 42ch-sp. Row 26: Rep Row 6 – 42tr-cl, 43ch-sp, 2tr. Rows 27–31: Rep Rows 3 & 6, ending with Row 3 rep on Row 31.

Row 6: 5ch, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch] to end, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 8tr-cl, 9ch-sp, 2tr. Row 7: Rep Row 3 – 9tr-cl, 8ch-sp. Row 8: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] eight times, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 16tr-cl, 17ch-sp, 2tr. Row 9: Rep Row 3 – 17tr-cl, 16ch-sp. Row 10: Rep Row 6 – 16tr-cl, 17ch-sp, 2tr. Row 11: Rep Row 3 – 17tr-cl, 16ch-sp.

[(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch, 3tr in ch-sp, 2ch] five times, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 32tr-cl, 33ch-sp, 2tr. Row 17: Rep Row 3 – 33tr-cl, 32ch-sp. Row 18: Rep Row 6 – 32tr-cl, 33ch-sp, 2tr. Rows 19–23: Rep Rows 3 & 6, ending with Row 3 rep on Row 23.

65ch-sp, 2tr. EDGING Row 43: 3ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 2ch, 2tr in same ch-sp, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in each ch-sp, to end, turn – 130tr-cl, 65ch-sp. Row 44: Sl st to first ch-sp, 3ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 2ch, 2tr in same ch-sp, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in each ch-sp to end, turn. Rows 45–48: Rep Row 44. Fasten off.

Row 32: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch, 3tr in ch-sp, 2ch] ten times, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] twice, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] ten times, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 64tr-cl, 65ch-sp, 2tr. Row 33: Rep Row 3 – 65tr-cl, 64ch-sp. Row 34: Rep Row 6 – 64tr-cl, 65ch-sp, 2tr. Rows 35–40: Rep Rows 3 & 6.

TOP EDGING Using matching yarn and 4mm hook, work a combination of ch, dc and picot sts across top of shawl as folls: Join yarn to end of Row 42, 1ch, *(2dc, 3ch, sl st in first ch, 1dc) in ch-sp, 3ch across to next ch-sp; rep from * to end, leaving off last 3ch. Fasten off.

Join in yarn B. Row 41: Rep Row 3 – 65tr-cl, 64ch-sp. Row 42: Rep Row 6 – 64tr-cl,

FINISHING Weave in ends and block shawl to dimensions above or as required.

END

chain stitch slip stitch treble crochet (tr)

Row 12: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch, (3tr in ch-sp, 2ch) twice] five times, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 22tr-cl, 23ch-sp, 2tr. Row 13: Rep Row 3 – 23tr-cl, 22ch-sp. Row 14: Rep Row 6 – 22tr-cl, 23ch-sp, 2tr. Row 15: Rep Row 3 – 23tr-cl, 22ch-sp. Row 16: 5ch, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] five times, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch] twice,

1 6

4

2

3

5 www.insidecrochet.co.uk 79

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Sunset Sampler Cushion BY JANE CZAJA

Tr y out a variety of fun stitches – this striking cushion cover will co-ordinate with the Sampler Blanket from issue 102.

ADD TO THE STASH range at Choose from the complete colour .com ools epw kshe .blac www

MATERIALS ● Stylecraft Special DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/295m/437yds Yarn A: Copper 1029 x 1 ball Yarn B: Spice 1711 x 1 ball Yarn C: Tomato 1723 x 2 balls Yarn D: Mustard 1823 x 1 ball Yarn E: Lime 1712 x 1 ball ● 5.5mm hook ● Stitch marker ● Cushion pad, 40 x 40cm/ 16 x 16in YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any aran weight or two strands of any DK weight acrylic yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Exact tension is not essential for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Finished cushion is approximately 40 x 40cm/16 x 16in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Jane loves experimenting with colour and stitches, and runs workshops to inspire others with her passion for crochet. Find

80 Inside Crochet

her on Instagram @janeccrochet and visit her website www.janescrochet.com. SPECIAL STITCHES Bobble: Yoh, insert hook in next st, pull up lp, yoh, pull through 2 lps, *yoh, insert hook in same st, pull up lp, yoh, pull through 2 lps; rep from * once more, yoh, pull yarn through all 4 lps on hook. Double Criss-Cross (DCC): Yoh, insert hook in first missed st, loosely draw lp across front of 2 tr just worked, yoh and complete as normal tr, insert hook in second missed st, loosely draw lp across front of same 2 tr, yoh and complete as normal tr. Mini Bean (MB): Insert hook in next st, yoh, pull through lp, yoh, insert hook in same st, pull through lp, yoh, pull through all 4 lps. PATTERN NOTES Change colour at end of row by pulling new colour through final two loops of last stitch worked. 2ch at start of row counts as 1tr throughout. Mark the top of this chain with a stitch marker so as

not to miss this last stitch of each row. SIDE ONE With yarn A and 5.5mm hook, 51ch. Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each ch across, turn – 50 sts. Row 2: (WS) 1ch, 1dc, [Bobble (see Special Stitches), 7dc] to last st, 1dc, turn. Row 3: 1ch (does not count as st throughout), dc to end, turn. Row 4: 1ch, 1dc, [4dc, Bobble, 3dc] to end, 1dc, turn. Row 5: As Row 3. Rows 6 & 7: As Rows 2 & 3, change to yarn B on last pull through of Row 7, turn. START

DOUBLE CRISS-CROSS Row 18: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 19: 2ch, 2tr, [miss 2 sts, 2tr, DCC (see Special Stitches)] to last 3 sts, 3tr, turn – 50 sts. Rows 20 & 21: As Rows 18 & 19. Row 22: 1ch, dc to end, change to yarn E on last pull through, turn. BOBBLE BAND Rows 23–25: As Rows 3–5. Rows 26 & 27: As Rows 2 & 3, change to yarn D on last pull through of Row 27, turn.

BLOCK SHELLS Row 8: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 9: 2ch, 2tr, [miss 2 sts, 5tr in next st, miss 2 sts, 3tr] to last 7 sts, miss 2 sts, 5tr in next st, miss 2 sts, 2tr, turn – 50 sts. Rows 10–12: Rep Rows 8 & 9 once and then Row 8 once more, change to yarn C on last pull through of Row 12, turn.

MINI BEAN Row 28: 1ch, dc to end, turn – 50 sts. Row 29: *[1ch, miss 1 st, MB (see Special Stitches) in next st]; to end, turn. Row 30: 2ch, MB in space to left hand side of next MB (do not work in 1ch), [1ch, MB in space to left of next MB] to end, turn. Rows 31–33: As Row 30. Row 34: 1ch, [1dc in space to left of next MB, 1dc in ch] across, 1dc in top of 2ch, change to yarn C on last pull through, turn – 50 sts.

BOBBLE BAND Rows 13–15: As Rows 3–5. Rows 16 & 17: As Rows 2 & 3, change to yarn D on last pull through of Row 17, turn.

BOBBLE BAND Rows 35–37: As Rows 3–5. Rows 38 & 39: As Rows 2 & 3, change to yarn B on last pull through of Row 39, turn.

FAN TREBLES Row 40: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 41: 2ch, 2tr, [miss 3 sts, (3tr, 1ch, 1tr) in next st] to last 3 sts, 3tr, turn – 50 tr, 11 x 1ch-sps. Row 42: 2ch, 2tr, [(3tr, 1ch, 1tr) in 1ch-sp] to last 3 sts, 3tr, turn. Row 43: 2ch, 2tr, 4tr in each 1ch-sp to last 3 tr, 3tr, turn – 50 sts. Row 44: 1ch, dc to end, change to yarn A on last pull through, turn. BOBBLE BAND Rows 45–47: As Rows 3–5. Rows 48–51: As Rows 2–5. Fasten off. SIDE TWO With yarn B, 52ch. Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each ch across, turn – 51 sts. Rows 2–10: 1ch (does not count as st throughout), dc to end, change to yarn C on last pull through of Row 10, turn. Rows 11–20: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 21: (RS) 1ch, 25dc, Bobble, 25dc, turn. Row 22 and every foll WS row: 1ch, dc to end, turn. Row 23: 1ch, 23dc, Bobble, 3dc; Bobble, 23dc, turn. Row 25: 1ch, 21dc, [Bobble, 3dc] twice, Bobble, 21dc, turn. Row 27: 1ch, 19dc, [Bobble, 3dc]

three times, Bobble, 19dc, turn. Row 29: 1ch, 17dc, [Bobble, 3dc] four times, Bobble, 17dc, turn. Row 31: 1ch, 15dc, [Bobble, 3dc] five times, Bobble, 15dc, turn. Row 33: 1ch, 13dc, [Bobble, 3dc] six times, Bobble, 13dc, turn. Row 35: As Row 31. Row 37: As Row 29. Row 39: As Row 27. Row 41: As Row 25. Row 43: As Row 23. Row 45: As Row 21. Rows 46–55: Rep Row 22, changing to yarn B on last pull through of Row 55, turn. Rows 56–65: Rep Row 22. Fasten off. FINISHING Place wrong sides of cushion together. Join yarn A to any corner with sl st, 1ch, 3dc in same corner, dc evenly around, working 3dc in each corner and joining with sl st in first dc. Insert pad before joining fourth side. Fasten off and sew in ends. TASSELS (OPTIONAL) Cut 48 x 15cm/6in strands of yarn to make four tassels, using 12 x 15cm/6in strands. Attach one tassel to END each corner.

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 81

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Scheepjes Stone Washed/ River Washed Colour Pack, 78%cotton/22% acrylic, 10g/26m/28yds 50 x 10g balls in different shades ● Scheepjes Stone Washed, 78% cotton/22% acrylic, 50g/130m/142yds Yarn A: Larimar 828 x 2 balls ● 3.5mm hook ● Pom-pom maker, 5cm/2in ● Stitch marker TENSION Work each square to measure approximately 7 x 7cm/2¾ x 2¾in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished blanket is 92.5 x 92.5cm/36½ x 36½in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Helda is a passionate and creative crochet designer who can be found on Instagram at @heldap123. SPECIAL STITCHES CL: (1dc, 2ch, 1dc). PM: Place marker. PATTERN NOTES This reversible blanket comprises 144 squares (12 across x 12 down), alternating solid squares and two-colour squares to form the pretty patchwork pattern, Each square uses approximately 5g of yarn, making this an ideal scrap-buster project. Each square is made in a spiral without joining at the end of each round. Adapt the pattern by making larger squares or one big granny square.

Josef Blanket

Keep moving SM every round to denote start.

BY HELDA PANAGARY

Inspired by Josef Albers’ “Homage to the Square” series of paintings, these neat little squares form twelve rows of pure colour delight.

Squares are joined “on-the-go” in Rnd 6. Alternatively, make all squares before joining using whatever method preferred. PLAIN SQUARE Make 72 With 3.5mm hook and using any colour from pack, make an adjustable ring. START

ADD TO THE STASH Buy these colourful yarns from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

82 Inside Crochet

Rnd 1: 1ch, [1dc, 2ch, 1dc (corner made)] four times in ring. Rnd 2: 1ch, PM in 1ch, miss 1dc, 1CL (see Special Stitches) in 2ch-sp, [1ch, miss 2dc, 1CL in 2ch-sp] three times. Rnd 3: 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in 1ch-sp marked with SM, 1ch, PM in this 1ch, [1CL in 2ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in 1ch-sp, 1ch] four times. Rnds 4–6: Miss 1dc, 1dc in 1ch-sp marked with SM, 1ch, PM in this 1ch, *1CL in 2ch-sp, (1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc) in each 1ch-sp along side of square,1ch; rep from * three times more. To close the square work a couple of sl sts. Weave in the ends. TWO-COLOUR SQUARE Make 72 Work Rnds 1–6 of Plain Square, changing to new colour on last pull through of first dc of Rnd 4. Leave a short yarn tail in the old colour to sew in securely later.

JOIN ON THE GO Join squares in Rnd 6. Complete one square as above and work next square up to start of Rnd 6. Work one side as usual up to first corner 2ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch) in this 2ch-sp, sl st in corner 2ch-sp of joining square (sl st acts as second ch of corner), 1dc in same place as first dc (corner is now joined), sl st to opposite 1ch-sp of joining square, 1ch, 1dc back in 1ch-sp of Rnd 6.

the side to corner 2ch-sp, 1ch, 1CL in 2ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in next 1ch-sp; rep from * three times more to SM, do not join, keep spiralling for eight rounds or until yarn has run out.

Work a couple of sl sts to finish and weave in the ends. Make four pom-poms and attach one to each of the four corners. END Weave in all ends.

Cont joining sides and corners in this way. Work any remaining sides of Rnd 6 to finish square. Alternatively, make all the squares and sew them together. BORDER The border uses the same techniques as the squares. Start by placing SM in any 1ch-sp of previous round to count the rounds more easily. Using yarn A, make 1dc in same place as SM, *(1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in the next 1ch-sp) along www.insidecrochet.co.uk 83

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, 100% acrylic, 100g/276m/301yds Yarn A: White 100 x 1 ball Yarn B: Lipstick Pink 151 x 1 ball Yarn C: Bubblegum Pink 150 x 1 ball Yarn D: Mustard Yellow 123 x 1 ball Yarn E: Washed Teal 132 x 1 ball Yarn F: Bright Peach 111 x 1 ball Yarn G: Spearmint Green 125 x 1 ball ● 3.5mm hook ● Two buttons ● White sewing thread and needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work motif to measure approximately 11 x 11cm/4¼ x 4¼in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain correct tension. MEASUREMENTS Cover measures: 31 x 11cm/12½ x 4¼in, to fit an eight-cup cafetière. Coaster for cafetière: 15cm/6in in diameter. Coaster for mug: 12cm/4½in in diameter.

Cafetière Cover & Coasters BY THEODORA BURROW

Brighten up the dark mornings and sweep away the winter blues with this stylish cafetière cover and coasters in bright Scandi-inspired shades. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.lovecrochet.com

86 Inside Crochet

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Londoner Theodora Burrow is an ’80s kid with a love of vintage patterns, vintage vinyl and vintage clothes. Designer by day, DJ by night, you can also find her on Instagram @theodora_goes_wild. SPECIAL STITCHES Popcorn stitch (pc): 5tr in same st, take hook out of working lp, insert hook under/in top of first tr, pick up working lp again and draw through to close group – 5tr popcorn made. At start of round, 3ch counts as first tr of 5tr pc. PATTERN NOTES For cafetière cover, motifs are worked separately then joined. A border is added to form buttonholes.

CAFETIÈRE COVER MOTIF Make three With 3.5mm hook and yarn F, 6ch, sl st in first ch to join. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr here and throughout), 4tr, remove hook from working lp, insert hook in top of first tr, pick up working lp again and draw through to close, 2ch, [1pc (see Special Stitches), 2ch] five times, sl st in top of 3ch – 6pc. Fasten off yarn F, join in yarn E to any 2ch-sp. START

Rnd 2: 3ch, (1pc, 3ch, 1pc) in same 2ch-sp, [(3ch, 1pc) twice in next 2ch-sp] five times, 3ch, sl st in top of 3ch – 12pc.

Fasten off yarn E, join in yarn A to any ch-sp. Rnd 3: 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same 3ch-sp, *[3htr in next 3ch-sp] twice, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3chsp (corner); rep from * to last rep, ending [3htr in next ch-sp] twice, sl st in top of 3ch. Rnd 4: Sl st to next 3ch-sp, 3ch (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same 3ch-sp, *miss next tr, 10tr, miss next tr, 10tr, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in 3ch-sp, rep from * to last rep, ending with last 2tr in first sl st, sl st in top of 3ch. Fasten off. JOINING Join two motifs with WS facing, join yarn A in any 3ch-sp, 1ch, 2dc

in same sp, 1dc in top of each tr working through both motifs, to last 3ch-sp, 2dc in same sp. Fasten off. Rep to join second to third motif in the same way. BORDER With RS facing join yarn A to first tr of right-hand corner of short edge, 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc in same st, 15dc, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 3ch-sp (corner), 16dc, *1dc in next ch-sp, 1dc in “seam”, 1dc in next ch-sp, 16dc**; rep from * to ** once, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next 3ch-sp, 3dc, 3ch, miss 3tr, 4dc, 3ch, miss 3tr, 3dc, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next 3ch-sp, 16dc; rep from * to ** twice, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in last chsp, sl st in first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. FINISHING Sew buttons to correspond with buttonholes. To block, END turn to WS and dampen. Leave to dry. CAFETIÈRE COASTER Work in yarns B, C, D and E, or colours of your choice. START

Work as for Cover Motif to end of Rnd 2 using yarns B and C. Rnd 3: Join yarn E to any ch-sp, 3ch, 1pc, 3ch, 1pc, 3ch in same sp, *(1pc, 3ch) in next ch-sp, (1pc, 3ch) twice in next ch-sp; rep from * to last rep, (1pc, 3ch) in last chsp, sl st in top of 3ch – 18 pc. Fasten off yarn E, join in yarn D to any ch-sp. Rnd 4: 3ch, 1pc in same sp, 3ch, 1pc, 3ch in next ch-sp, *(1pc, 3ch) twice in next ch-sp, [1pc, 3ch, in next ch-sp] twice; rep from * to end, sl st in top of 3ch – 27pc. Rnd 5: (Picot edging) Sl st to next ch-sp, 1ch (does not count as st), (1dc, 3ch, sl st in base of dc, 1dc) in same sp, 1dc in top of next pc, *(1dc, 3ch, sl st in base of dc, 1dc) in next ch-sp, 1dc in top of next pc; rep from * to end, sl st in 1ch to close. Weave in all ends. To END block, turn to WS and dampen. Leave to dry. COASTER Work as for Cafetière Coaster to end of Rnd 3. Picot edging is worked in same way. To block, turn to END WS and dampen. Leave to dry. START

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Yarn Market KATH WEBBER, COMMISSIONING EDITOR, WRITES: “I’m a big fan of independent yarn shops – whether it’s the local yarn store in town where you can pop in for a browse and some help with your latest project, or an online shop with gorgeously curated wools and accessories, the care and personal service you get is second-to-none. Our favourite independent yarn shops – some local, some online - are all

packed with a great choice of yarns, hooks and extras perfect for your next project. Yarn shops are also great places to find fellow crocheters, whether it’s a ‘Crochet and Chatter’ social group or workshops from local designers, all brought to you by staff with a real passion for yarn and love for our craft. Check out these stores for some great yarn and service!”

Quilting fabric, sewing machines, wool and haberdashery

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Stockists of James C Brett, Stylecraft, Woolcraft and Adriafil, Knitting needles, crochet hooks etc. DMC embroidery silks Haberdashery inc elastic, zips, buttons Knitting Bags and gifts from Vanessa Bee Designs

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Come join our workshops and classes. Stockists: King Cole, Stylecraft, Scheepjes, Grundl, Erika Knight Yarns and more!

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Stockists of Sirdar, Stylecraft, King Cole, Wendy, Rico and James C. Brett.

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Stockists of Jamieson & Smith, Schjeepies, Homespun Wonders, Rico, Stylecraft, West Yorkshire Spinners, Sirdar, King Cole, Addi Needles and much more. 9a Milton Street, Saltburn By The Sea, Cleveland TS12 1DH | 01287 623154

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Loom knitting November/December Mon Wed Thurs Fri Sat 9.30am to 3pm Learn to CLOSED knit January/February TUES See Crochet facebooklessons for more details or call Wednesday askin! Open Mon Tues Weds Sat10am—4pm Claire for Fri details

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We Stock: Blue Sky Alpacas, Einrum, Qing Fibre, Swans Island, The Fibre Co, Habu, Illimani, Isager, Kelbourne Woollens, Chiaogoo, Lykke, Laine, Pom Pom, Uneek, Skein Queen and many others! 20B Richmond Hill, London TW10 6QX Phone: 020 8940 0999 www.tribeyarns.com

• Wide range of kniing yarns, accessories, haberdashery and paterns • Kniing and Crochet Workshops • Helpful and friendly staff

We have had a change around in the shop to make more room for browsing the all paterns we stock. Now stocking Rico and Wendy. For more informaion please contact us on: 0208 6433211 or [email protected]

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www.whichcratwools.co.uk

➻

HOW TO CROCHET

Howto

Crochet The May Bloom Wrap by Carmen Heffernan (issue 101) uses a beautiful linen-blend yarn for stunning drape and texture.

I have always believed that anyone can learn to crochet, so long as you follow one simple rule: don’t try to run before you can chain! The chain is the most simple of stitches and therefore ideal for practising the all-important hold, which helps create the perfect tension for forming all the following stitches. When my mother taught me to crochet, she followed her grandmother’s lead and helped me to hook metre upon metre of chain before I was shown any further stitches. It was a fantastic foundation for learning the more difficult techniques. Once your chains are looking even and feel comfortable to create, then progressing on to the stitches becomes much easier. If at any point you feel as if you have lost your hold, simply go back to those comforting lengths of chain until your confidence returns. My biggest tip is to remember that this wonderful craft is well known for being relaxing and fun, so find a comfy chair, some free time and just enjoy it! Happy crocheting…

TEACH YOURSELF How to hold the work, chains, double & treble crochet, slip stitch

TURN THE PAGE FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET STARTED

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 89

GETTING STARTED

THE BASICS To crochet smoothly and efficiently, you must hold the hook and yarn in a relaxed, comfortable and consistent fashion. This will also ensure that your tension is even and accurate. There are two main ways of holding the hook and two main ways to tension the yarn. You can choose whichever combination feels more natural for you, or a variation on these.

SLIPKNOT

CHAIN

A slipknot creates the first loop on the hook.

Most crochet projects begin with a length of chain. This is the perfect stitch to practise your hold and tension with.

HOLDING THE HOOK

KNIFE GRIP

PENCIL GRIP

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a knife.

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a pencil.

1 Make a loop in the yarn around 10–20cm/4–8in from the end. Insert hook through loop, catch the back strand of yarn and pull it through to the front.

HOLDING THE YARN

FOREFINGER METHOD

MIDDLE-FINGER METHOD

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand, under the next two fingers and over the forefinger. Hold the work steady with your middle finger and thumb, then raise your forefinger when working to create tension.

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand and over the other fingers. Hold the work steady with your forefinger and thumb, then raise your middle finger while you are crocheting to create tension.

To croch e t le ft-h and ed, simply do the opp osit e to . the righ t-h and ed hol ds Hold a mirror up to any to p ic ture in this gu ide

see how to wor k.

90 Inside Crochet

It doesn’t ma t te r if your sti tch es te nd tow ar ds be in g sli gh tly tig ht or ev en a lit tle loose; you ar e ai mi ng for an ev en te nsion th roughout to ac hi ev e a pr of ession al fin ish .

1 Holding just the hook with point up in your dominant hand, and the yarn in the other, grip the slipknot with the yarn holding hand. Work a yarn round hook (yrh or yoh) by passing the hook in front of the yarn, under and around it.

2 Pull the ends of the yarn to secure the knot around the hook, but not too tightly or it will be hard to pull the first loop of chain through. 2 Roll the hook round in your fingers towards you to catch the yarn and pull through loop on hook. One chain made.

The action of working stitches causes a constan t rolling of the hook in your fingers; hold the hook pointin g up when performing the yrh, then roll it round towards you to point down when pulling through the loops so that you don’t catch the hook in the stitches.

3 Ensuring the stitches are even – not too loose or tight – repeat to make a length of chain.

➻

HOW TO CROCHET

THE MAIN STITCHES SLIP STITCH (sl st) A slip stitch is usually used to join one stitch to another, or to join a stitch to another point. It is generally made by picking up two strands of a stitch but when used all over, you usually only pick up the back loop.

This adorable Cupcake Ella amigurumi by Lydia Tresselt (issue 100) uses simple dc stitches for a sweet finish!

Double crochet stitches are perfect for m aking am igurum i, w hile treble crochets are used to create the classic granny square design

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) The smallest stitch, creating a dense fabric perfect for amigurumi. 1 Insert hook into st or chain required. Yarn over hook, as when you make a chain. Pull a loop through all stitches/ loops/work on hook to finish slip stitch.

1 Insert hook into chain or stitch, front to back. Yarn over hook and draw through stitch to front, leaving you with two loops on the hook. Yarn round hook. 2 Draw through both loops to finish the stitch. Double crochet completed.

COUNTING A CHAIN The right side of your chain is the one that looks like a little plait of “v” shapes. Each “v” is a stitch and must be counted. When you are working the chain, you do not count the slipknot, but begin to count your chain when you pull through the first loop. To count the chain afterwards you count the slipknot as the first stitch, but not the loop on the hook, or “working” loop.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) Slightly taller than a double crochet stitch, with a softer drape to the resulting fabric. 1 Yarn over hook, insert hook into st from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

2 Draw yarn through three remaining loops on the hook together to complete half treble.

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Top crochet websites

TREBLE CROCHET (tr) The tallest of the basic stitches, great for using within more complex patterns.

FASTEN OFF Pull up final loop of last stitch to make it bigger and cut the yarn, leaving enough of an end to weave in. Pull end through loop, and pull up tightly to secure.

www.thepetalshed.uk ➻ Hattie Risdale’s beautiful site is a riot of gorgeous colour combinations, floral mandalas and on-trend homewares. Uplifting, inspiring and fun!

1 Yarn round hook, insert hook into stitch from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

COUNTING STITCHES Count the post or “stem” of each stitch from the side of your work. Each post counts as one stitch. Double crochet

www.lookatwhatimade.net ➻ Inside Crochet columnist Dedri Uys sets out to inspire with her website of tutorials, free patterns and CAL information.

2 Pull loop through two loops. Two loops on hook. Yarn round hook.

Treble crochet

www.haakmaarraak.nl ➻ Scheepjes blogger Kirsten Ballering’s website offers lots of bright homewares inspiration with plenty of free patterns.

www.lovecrochet.com ➻ Love Crochet isn’t just a great value shop for yarn, hooks and patterns, it also has a thriving Community section where you can share projects and a blog full of tutorials.

www.ravelry.com ➻ A crochet and knitting community site with almost seven million members, Ravelry is your one-stop site for indie patterns, yarn information, forums and project galleries.

92 Inside Crochet

3 Pull loop through the remaining two loops to complete treble, repeat to end of row.

Try t o coun t your st it ches a t regu lar int erva ls, usua lly a t the end of ever y, or ever y othe r, row and esp ecia lly a f t er an incr ea se or decr ea se row. It is b est t o try t o ca t ch any mist ake s a s q uick ly a s p ossib le, a s this will mak e them muc h ea sier t o rect i fy!

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HOW TO CROCHET

USING THE STITCHES

The Blossom & Blue Skies Garland by Hattie Risdale (issue 101) is largely made of easy treble, double and chain stitches.

WORKING INTO A CHAIN

WORKING STRAIGHT

When working into a chain, you need to miss out the appropriate number of chain stitches called for with your particular stitch (see the information on turning chains, to the right). Now insert the hook from front to back into the next chain, under the top loop of the chain. Yarn over and draw a loop through to the front of the chain.

When working straight, you need to turn your work at the end of a row and then work a turning chain (t-ch) to the height of your intended stitch so that you can continue working along the next row. This chain often counts as the first stitch of the row and each type of stitch uses a different number of chain stitches for the turning chain.

WORKING INTO WHICH LOOP? Crochet stitches are always worked through both loops of the next stitch (this looks like a “v” on top of the stitch), unless the pattern tells you otherwise.

With htr and taller stitches, you now miss out the first stitch of the row, then work into every following stitch. This is because the turning chain is tall enough to count as the first stitch itself, so is counted as the first stitch of the row. This also means that you must remember to work the last stitch of a row into the top of the previous row’s turning chain.

Som etim es you are asked to w ork into a space or chain space. To do this, sim ply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain and com plete the stitch norm ally

KEEPING STRAIGHT EDGES Sometimes a pattern will ask you to work only through one loop of the stitch. To work through the front loop only (flo), insert your hook under the front loop of the next stitch, then bring it out at the centre of the stitch, then complete. To work through the back loop only (blo), insert your hook through the centre of the stitch, then under the back loop to the back, then complete the stitch. Sometimes you are even asked to work in between the stitches. In this case, ignore the top loops of the stitch and insert your hook between the posts of adjoining stitches.

WORKING INTO A SPACE Sometimes you are asked to work into a space or a chain space. To do this simply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain, then complete your stitch normally. This is similar to working into a ring, as shown on page 94.

Knowing which stitch to work into when working straight can be a problem for beginners, because the turning chain has such a role to play. If you don’t know which stitch to work into after making your turning chain, simply unravel back to the last stitch from previous row and insert a thread or stitch marker into that stitch. Make your desired turning chain then miss out the stitch with the thread in (except with dc stitches), as your turning chain now counts as the first stitch of the row. Once you have worked across all stitches in the row, you must remember to put a stitch into the top of the previous row’s turning chain, as this also counts as a stitch. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 93

Beginner books we recommend

WORKING IN THE ROUND When working in the round, instead of working backwards and forwards along the work, turning at the end of each round, you simply work with the right side facing you at all times and you do not turn. When working in the round, you generally begin one of three ways:

WORKING AROUND A RING

WORKING INTO A SHORT CHAIN

ADJUSTABLE RING

This method of working in the round creates a large hole at the centre of your work. Its size is dependent on the length of chain used.

You can create a smaller hole in the centre of your work by working into a chain as short as 2ch long.

This method is also referred to as the magic loop or ring, as it creates a round with no hole at the centre. Here it is demonstrated with double crochet.

CROCHET WORKSHOP Erika Knight (Quadrille, £14.99)

Perfect for the beginner, Erika guides the reader through 20 beautiful projects that quickly increase knowledge and skill level.

Make a length of chain as required, then insert your hook into the first chain stitch you made. Yarn round hook.

For double crochets, as in this example, work 2ch. For htr you would work 3ch and for trebles, 4ch. Make a loop in your yarn, at least 15cm/6in from the tail end. Insert hook through the loop from front to back.

Insert hook into the top loop of the first chain as shown. Yarn round hook.

BEETLES, BUGS AND BUTTERFLIES Lydia Tresselt (SewandSo, £16.99)

A lovely introduction to amigurumi crochet, Lydia takes the crocheter into the tiny world of insects all with meticulous instructions.

Work a slip stitch to join, creating a ring, and then work your turning chain dependent on which stitch you will be working into the ring. Insert hook into the centre of the ring and work the first stitch into this ring.

Complete the first stitch in the chain as shown (illustrations show dc, but can be any stitch).

Work required number of stitches into the centre of the ring and join round with a slip stitch. Do not turn, but continue the next row around the last.

Now work the required amount of stitches into the same chain. The sheer amount of stitches worked into one place will cause them to fan out into a round. Now join this round with a slip stitch and continue with the pattern.

ROUND AND ROUND THE CROCHET HOOK Emily Littlefair (Tuva, £14.95)

Emily from The Loopy Stitch shares a whole host of colourful in-the-round projects, starting with simple, beginner level ideas.

94 Inside Crochet

Pull yarn though to front of loop and complete the stitch around the loop and the tail end of yarn held double.

Work all the following stitches into the ring in the same way, over the two strands of yarn in the loop. Once all stitches have been worked, pull the loose tail end of the yarn to close the ring and join the round with a slip stitch.

➻

HOW TO CROCHET

SHAPING, COLOURWORK & TENSION Once you’ve learned simple shaping stitches, you can create almost any garment – and add in different colours as you go with our simple technique. Make sure to check your tension first though, or your finished piece could be completely the wrong size!

INCREASING

JOINING IN A NEW COLOUR

TENSION/GAUGE

To join in a new colour (or a new ball of the same colour), you can simply fasten off the old yarn and then attach the new colour with a slip stitch into the top of the last stitch made. However, for a neater join, you can also work the colour change as follows: To work an extra stitch, you simply need to work into the same stitch more than once. Work one stitch as normal. Insert hook into same stitch you’ve just worked and complete another stitch. One stitch increased.

Work the last stitch in the colour you are using first, up to the final step, so that the stitch is unfinished. Pull the new colour through the loops on your hook, completing the stitch and joining the new colour at the same time.

DECREASING To decrease a stitch, you need to work into two stitches without finishing them, then work them together.

For a double crochet (above), insert hook into next st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the stitch, but do not finish the double crochet stitch as usual. Insert hook into following st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the next st, so there are three loops on the hook in total. Yarn over hook and draw the loop through all loops on hook, drawing two stitches together. One stitch decreased.

For a treble crochet, work a treble into the next stitch until the last step of the stitch, two loops on hook. Do the same into the following stitch, three loops on hook. Draw through all three loops on hook to draw the two trebles together. One stitch decreased.

Working a new colour over double crochet

Working a new colour over treble crochet

Once you have joined in the new yarn, you can weave in the ends of both yarns as you go, by holding them on top of your stitches and working round them as you work into the following stitches. Do this for at least 5cm/2in then cut the remaining ends.

A tension swatch is used to ensure that you are working at the tension called for in the pattern. It is essential to check this, otherwise your finished garment is likely to be the wrong size! Crochet a small square of just over 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in the main yarn and stitch used in the pattern, then count and calculate the average amount of stitches per cm. Chain a few more stitches and work more rows than the tension in the pattern suggests you’ll need for this size. Once you have completed the swatch, use a measuring tape or ruler, place some pins at 0 and 10 and take some average measurements – count how many stitches and rows to 10cm at different points over the swatch. If you find you have more stitches per cm than indicated in the pattern, then your tension is too tight and you need to work more loosely. The best way to do this is to increase the size of hook you’re using by a quarter or half millimetre until the tension is as close as you can get it. If there are fewer stitches than required, then you are crocheting too loosely, and you need to decrease the size of hook used in the same way.

TURN THE PAGE FOR CLUSTER STITCHES, TIPS AND A FULL GLOSSARY OF CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS, UK VS US TERMS AND HOOK SIZES

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CLUSTERS Clusters are groups of stitches worked into the same stitch, but rather than an increase, they still only equate to one stitch overall. Clusters can be confusing to work, so here are the details of some of the main cluster stitches.

BOBBLE

PUFFS

A bobble is a number of stitches (generally trebles), half finished and all worked into the same stitch. Work each stitch until the last step, omitting this final step. Once the desired number of half finished trebles have been completed, you will have one more loop on your hook than you have half finished trebles. Yarn round hook, then pull through all loops on hook to complete the bobble.

A puff is a number of elongated half trebles worked into the same stitch and then finished together, as follows:

POPCORNS Popcorns are a number of complete stitches worked into one stitch.

1 Yarn round hook, insert into next stitch, pull a loop through the stitch and then pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row.

TIPS ANDTRICKS abcdgg Working from a pattern ➻ Once you have “cracked the code” and understand the stitches’ abbreviations, a pattern becomes much easier to read. Don’t read a pattern fully before starting it as it may make it seem more complex, but do take a brief look through to check if there any abbreviations you are unfamiliar with. Consult the abbreviations tables opposite before beginning. ➻ Purchase yarn with the same dye lot number on the balls to avoid unwanted colour changes and choose light coloured yarn for your first projects to make sure that you can see your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring.

1 Once the sts are completed, remove your hook and insert back into the first stitch worked, then through the final loop.

2 Yarn round hook and pull through everything on the hook. Popcorn complete.

2 Yarn round hook, insert into same stitch, pull a loop through stitch and pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row. Repeat this step the desired number of times.

3 Yarn round hook and pull through all loops on hook. Puff made.

Choose light-coloured yarn for your first few projects to m ake sure that you can see all of your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring 96 Inside Crochet

➻ If you are attempting a project with multiple size options, circle or highlight the instructions for the size you are making throughout the pattern to avoid confusion. The smallest size is listed first, then all following ones inside brackets, increasing in size and separated by commas. ➻ Where a pattern has an accompanying chart, use this for reference, as it shows the formation of the stitches as they will be worked and can help with tricky instructions. ➻ Finally, and most importantly, for projects that need to have a good fit, always check your tension by swatching before you begin.

➻

HOW TO CROCHET

A note on... Hook sizes

ABBREVIATIONS Note: Inside Crochet uses UK terms throughout alt · alternate bef · before beg · begin(s); beginning bet · between blo · back loop only ch(s) · chain(s) ch-sp(s) · chain space(s) cl(s) · cluster(s) cm · centimetre(s) cont · continue(s); continuing dc · double crochet dc2tog · work two dc together dec(s) · decrease(s); decreasing; decreased dtr · double treble crochet dtr2tog · work two dtr together ea · each ech · extended chain edc · extended double crochet

prev · previous rem · remain(s); remaining rep(s) · repeat(s) rev dc · reverse double crochet rnd(s) · round(s) RS · right side rtrf · raised treble front rtrb · raised treble back sl · slip sl st · slip stitch sp(s) · space(es) st(s) · stitch(es) t-ch(s) · turning chain(s) tog · together tr · treble crochet trtr · triple treble tr2tog · work two trebles together WS · wrong side yd(s) · yard(s) yoh · yarn over hook yrh · yarn round hook

etr · extended treble est · established fdc · foundation double crochet flo · front loop only foll · follows; following ftr · foundation treble crochet g · gram(s) gp(s) · group(s) hk · hook htr · half treble crochet htr2tog · work two htr together inc(s) · increase(s); increasing; increased in · inch(es) lp(s) · loop(s) m · stitch marker mm · millimetre(s) nc · not closed patt · pattern pm · place marker

BREAKING THE LANGUAGE BARRIER UK and US terms have differing meanings which can create difficulty for the crocheter. Here’s a handy reference guide to overcome any misunderstandings.

UK TERMS

US TERMS

Chain Miss Slip stitch Double crochet Half treble crochet Treble crochet Double treble crochet Triple treble crochet Raised treble back/front

Chain Skip Slip stitch Single crochet Half double crochet Double crochet Treble crochet Double treble crochet Back/front post dc

➻ Hook sizes and their designations vary from country to country. When following the recommendations in a pattern or on a ball band, make sure to check which size convention is being used.

CROCHET HOOK SIZES Metric (mm)

UK

US

0.60

14

0.75

12

1

11

1.25

7

1.50

6

1.75 2

5 14

2.25 2.5

B/1 12

2.75 3

C/2 10

3.25 3.5

D/3 9

3.75

E/4 F/5

4

8

G/6

4.5

7

7

5

6

H/8

5.5

5

I/9

6

4

J/10

6.5

3

K-/101/2

7

2

8

0

L/11

9

00

M /13

10

000

N/15

11.5

O

12

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www.insidecrochet.co.uk 97

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FINAL THOUGHT

“I make collections of colours and

leave them in piles in my wool (spare) room for a few days, sometimes weeks, until the right combination appears .”

Amanda Perkins

GLORIOUS COLOUR We catch up with designer Amanda about babies, blankets and her fabulous sense of colour…

Above: Amanda was inspired to create her book after watching her grandson Bert trying to pick up some shapes off a blanket design. Below: Amanda conjures up the most beautiful and magical colour combos.

Tell us about yourself… I live in a tiny flat, perched high on a hill, in a tiny town on the Exm oor coast. I share m y life with m y husband Phil and our two “40 -m iles-per-hour couch potato” lurchers. We are lucky to live in the flat below our daughter, son-in-law and Bert our grandson. How did you get into crochet design? I used to run a hand-dyed yarn com pany called The Natural Dye Studio, and started designing crochet scarves and shawls as pattern support for m y yarn. Could you tell us about your new book? My new book is called Bert’s Crochet Baby Blankets, it contains eight m odern, vibrant crochet blankets for babies, toddlers and your own inner child. The blanket designs focus on colour and shape rather than texture and technique. The book contains illustrated step-by-step charts, plus inform ation on techniques used, colour, sewing in ends and m uch m ore. The blanket designs are m ade using the basic stitches to create sim ple, crochet motifs, that fit together like jigsaw pieces. How would you describe your design style? Artistic, vibrant and m odern, hopefully fun and inspirational too. How do you go about choosing colour schemes for your designs? I like to use as many different colours in the same place at the sam e tim e as I can. I m ake collections of colours and leave them in piles in m y wool (spare) room for a few days, som etim es weeks, until the right com bination appears. You use a lot of different shades together and yet make them work beautifully – how do you put together a colour palette for a design that works so well? My colour choices are instinctive, I’m very obsessive about the colours being right and quite often end up frogging m otifs of wrong colours that don’t work if needed. I understand that a lot of crocheters struggle choosing colour, so I try to add swatches of the colour palette to m y patterns – crocheters m ight not be able to m atch the colour exactly but should be able to choose som ething sim ilar. I hope that m y

98 Inside Crochet

blanket designs are personal to their creators, and m aybe contain yarns and colours from their stash, left over from other projects to give the blankets a unique identity. Do you have any favourite colour schemes or combinations? I tend to use colour palettes of a sim ilar depth of shade, for exam ple all the blankets in this book use bright vibrant colours. I also like a m uted tonal palette sim ilar to the natural dye palette that I dyed for m y business. What’s a typical day like for you? Most days I wake up about 7.30 am , play com puter gam es in bed on m y iPhone for an hour, get up, turn on m y laptop by 9am. Then I work on my computer writing books, designing blankets, social networking, answering emails. I try to turn my laptop off by 1pm, then I crochet until 5pm when I walk the dogs and post orders, after which I allow myself an hour off to play gam es on m y PS4, then I crochet till I go to bed. On weekends and the days I babysit Bert I replace the com puter part of m y day with taking Bert to playgroup and long walks running the dogs on the beach or up on the moors. But I always fit at least four or five hours of crochet in every day. What are your favourite yarns or fibres to work with? Wool, silk and alpaca. What are your plans for the future? I’m working on a big 2019 motif project including crochet-alongs, a club and ending in a m otif book early next year. In the autum n I will be publishing Moorland Crochet Blankets, inspired by the landscape and place I live in. Finally I’m going to start thinking about a second baby book, for Bert’s baby sibling due to be born at the end of March 2019, which will probably mean more Bert sitting!

Visit Amanda’s website at www.amandasperkins crochetblankets.com. Bert’s Crochet Baby Blankets is out now – turn to page 12 for further details and our review.

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