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UC-NRLF

5bl bib

How

TO

MAKE A

SHOE.

UNIVERSITY

JNO.

^^^ P.

HBADLEY,

WASHINGTON,

D. C.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

GIBSON BROTHERS, PRINTERS.

JR.

Entered according

to act of

Congress, in the year 1882, by

JNO. P. HEADLEY,

Jr.,

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at

77".

5

-Z5^^c^_

-t

Washington, D. C.

ft* Shoemakers are known both

As men who always cut up Horse sometimes, also cow

To meet the changes

and wide,

far

side leather.

in the weal

Sheep and goats are often slain; Both unite to make it plain

That sheep

When

is

used for lining

nice,

goat alone would not suffice

;

Just so with calf as well as kid.

Some use these linen-lined, And think it quite the best, for

Who

feel

those

themselves refined.

Eefined or not,

we

think

it

true

Our feet need some protection To do whate'er they have to do,

We

make our own

selection.

Select at all times the best

Both This

is

And

of

;

we

can,

shoemakers as well as shoes,

much

the better plan,

learns us

how

to choose.

INTRODUCTION. The Author of the book in hand, having passed through the various scenes through which he would accompany his readers, was prompted to make this offering to the craft and the public in order to relieve his mind of the thoughts had upon the subject of making shoes, as well as to contribute something of a literary character which, in the broad range of

may become useful as a text-book, or family-book, for those who may feel interested in making or wearing shoes, and perhaps

possibilities,

Realizing the imperfections and shortcomings of the human family, to some extent at least, no claim beyond

lead to something better.

that which

you -are disposed

to put

upon

it is

held, so that any communication will be gladly received and noted. This opportunity is also

taken to express thanks for some valuable suggestions from the U. S. Bureau of Education,

and

others, concerning the publication of this volume, and in its present shape you are

little

invited to read

you

and make the best use

of

can.

AUTHOR.

it

The

subject, seated

One knee Has The

measure taken

his

The

on a

chair,

the other to rest,

foot at ease

fair,

is best.

Artist views the foot,

And

straightway takes the len

By measuring His

From

size

it

from heel to

toe,

brings content.

twelve to eighteen inches long

This stick has

Three to the

many sizes; inch is now our

song,

Subject to compromises.

Some

feet have long toes behind In the language of the craft; These are not so hard to find,

And Our

oft to us

been waft.

Artist here will best succeed,

If a little

For out

head he can measure,

of that

To make

comes very much

the feet a treasure.

Q

Next, around the heel a strap

To

we

bring,

the centre of the curve,

A leather And

or linen strap

is

used,

don't affect the nerve.

The marks on

this

an inch represents,

Also fractions of inch preserved

;

When made complete it then presents An appearance well deserved. Around the But that For around Will

Now

heel, I've already said, is

in part

make

let

not quite so

it

;

and through instead

more the

go.

us here make up our minds,

If this trade

That the craft

we would is

'

study,

subject to

If the subject gets very

many

muddy.

fines

With

Be For

strap in

hand the

sure you get

at this place

it

instep measure

right

;

some have a

Which prompts them

treasure,

oft to fight.

A little

lump we will it now call, Not knowing the exact name of it Nor let our strap the least bit fall, But measure

When

just above

And

it.

we've done this, and done quite

Another move

Which

;

well,.

will follow,

takes us nearly on the ball,

brings us from the hollow.

^^

OF THE

^

UNIVERSITY

From

the hollow

With

strap in

The measure

now

we've just come out,

hand to take

neat, near

on the

ball^

So that our fits won't shake.

If they

should shake the remedy comes,

A false To

sole

we do make,

please our subjects at their homes

The

soles

we

there do take.

Onward now the way we press, And move along just so, Until we reach the part well known To bq

the toe, the toe.

This

is

the place of which folks do talk,

If there is any pressure, Because they cannot easy walk, The shoey missed the measure.

Just below the Is

ball,

across the toes,

where we next are found

For there

When

is

nothing worn

;

like shoes

used upon the ground.

From here we feel like soaring And soon get at the ankle, Which must be

fit

higher,

to suit the buyer,

Thus avoiding any wrangle.

The ankle

reached,

we then with

Measure neat and true If

anything

is

is

;

noticed there,

'Twill surely

That notice

be the shoe.

just

what we want,

From that we get our living And if we make a miss on that, It

;

might be past forgiving.

From

toe to ankle

we have come,

With an uncertain

And

care

height,

with the measures we've put

Will

now add

that right.

down

To have Some But

the height right like

to have

And

Some

them

we

this

our aim

is

shoes high, some low fit is all

;

;

the same,

try to show.

in one way,

some

in another,

These measures have been taken, Until we have them all together,

We

should not try to shapen.

To work now by our measure marked Will be our constant aim

A

;

pattern must be cut

To

start

with that

is plain.

/

Bat

plainer

From

the.

still

the shoe will be

pattern

Because we think

we

shall cut,

you'll all agree

What's opened should be shut.

Before our eyes the patterns come,

A

The shapes are clearly seen, vamp and quarter, with a tongue,

Worked

A

just in between.

stiffening of sole has

And

asks that

it

found

its

way,

be shown,

In order, at some future day, Its use might be made known.

The

parts, you see, stand thus But have a close relation

alone,

;

Because these parts must

To keep

be shown

their proper station.

One part not Is cut

all

and

Upon which

seen, in shape the same,

called the lining,

each quarter must be placed We'll not stop here defining

-

But show

The

in this cut,

lining a

if

you

please,

little larger,

With the quarter pasted on it smooth^ If not there'll come a charger.

The vamp,

also,

has been changed,

Only one-half appears, The cause of which can be explained In less time than number years.

When we

the lower corners take,

And match them well in fact, The centre we at once do make, Which guides the following 23

act

The

act of uniting quarter

With paste or cement

and vamp,

for sewing,

Is done with care, as in this cut,

The

The

centre

To

By

fitness of things is showing.

mark on the vamp

we'll use,

get the quarters placed best,

putting the

vamp upon

One-half inch above to

One end

is

the two,

rest.

reached, but not the last

This end from flax or cotton Is

made by some men very If the flax is

fast,

not too rotten.

;

The work which we have now passed through be done by standing, Having a board to cut upon, And one the paste commanding.

Could

all

But now we wish the scene

And Which The

to change,

begin the ending act conies first to

;

him who would arrange

threads, indeed, intact.

We roll

the thread

upon our

To untwist and break with

And

knee, ease,

place the cords, one, two, and three,

So that the points are formed, if you please.

By

having the points one below the other,

The thread kept

We

free

from a knot,

will avoid whate'er there is to bother,

While the past may be forgot.

We If

be just as it may, wrong we'll try and mend it

will let that

For surely there

When

after

will

awl

come a day

we'll

send

it.

;

r

-Sb^,,

With the thread arranged, Twisting

The

figure

To

When

We

twist

quite in order

is

now shows us it

as we've described,

a

;

how

hard and harder.

one side is twisted hard enough, simply take the other,

And do

the same thing over again,

So that the threads are worked together.

Before the ends are entirely free, One thing around us lingers,

We

take the thread, three or two in one,

Around our

left-hand fingers.

A large

round awl

To do what we

is

call

just the thing.

milling;

Two or three trips From fingers to

are sure to bring

Now

very smooth,

our thread

But we

foot the filling.

is

try to

make

it

smoother,

using a piece of cloth to rub,

By When

done, free

Something now

is

all

together.

sought that

Commonly known as wax; And often one gets in afix

When

he finds

it

with the tacks

But wax, not tacks, is what we want, To make our thread quite nice ;

We

catch

And

it

in the middle,

to the

end wax

thrice.

Each time waxing briskly, Not stopping on the way, For

if

we do

we'll

And perhaps

miss

will

Our wax should be Soft

wax

Hard wax

it,

have to

stay.

in season,

in winter use

in summer-treason, Holding together our shoes.

A

fine point

now

we're about to

make

;

This part should be waxed better,

So that the

bristle

we may take,

Shall stick like the

Well

To Until

stamp of a

letter.

stop here about the thread, take a

we

little

whistle,

find a pair to suit,

Then begin

to bristle.

The

bristles

with care have been selected,

In keeping with the thread, In this case

we

feel protected,

Because the hog

From

Russia,

we

is

dead.

are told, the best bristles

come,

But cannot

tell you why, The hairs upon our hogs at home

Are not so good to buy. 39

The union

of thread

and

bristle,

now,

Will keep us to our text,

For from

What

The

no doubt see

this you'll

is

coming

next.

bristle is split a little o'er half

In the

hand has

left

Between the

An

finger

and thumb to play

important part in the

race.

One-half over the forefinger you

Held

in place

The thread and

by

not

S2)lit

bristle

but

Some have

By waxing

see,

the next,

To be thus placed

Do

is

both agree best.

roll it on,

said

and done,

the bristle where the other

split,

And

way,

its place,

continued from sun to sun.

is

Now

either

way

to start will do,

As much depends on

twisting,

The hairy part is left for you To make sort of whisting.

Back

to the scene

With our end

Make

from whence we came,

in place to hasten,

a hole quite through the thread,

The point pass through and

fasten.

So much about the

No doubt

bristle said,

you'll think it strange

That needles are not used instead

Some have

tried the change.

They may be used with good effect, In sewing through and through ;

But when we use a crooked

The

bristle

awl,

stands by true.

One more remark about

the

end

We

thus have kept in view, To find the middle is the thing Now left for us to do.

Not very hard, but easy quite In the left hand even joints

The

right

This

;

hand holding the other end,

fills

up

all

the points.

Another change

in things takes place, This time the clamps appear Between the knees they run their race, ;

And

hold the upper dear.

The vamp and quarters Are seen now

as they were pasted,

in their place

;

The vamp extending above the clamps, With the quarters easy to trace.

Begin to sew at extreme end Put left-hand bristle first in ;

Across the

;

vamp our sewing extend, Two rows that may be seen. 49

This nicely done, just change a

The

position

When we

is clearly

little

;

seen

have this quarter stitched near the

back,

Say half inch in between, Pull through one thread and

On

the inside to be

left

tie it tight,

;

Begin to sew the other quarter, Close at the

vamp

is right.

Sew

to the baek,

and then begin

Another row up the front to the top, 'twill be no sin, ;

Sew

But the doing

of

what

is

wont.

These rows, half an inch apart, Will serve the present state,

Because now we have a splendid And getting on first rate.

start,

Then down the front on the other To the vamp be sure to go ;

Never allow your work to

But take

it

out just 53

so.

slide,

side,

The front But

it

sewed, the back

is

will

be very soon

is not,

;

This must never be forgot,

As

The

it

up part the room.

takes

out-sides together at the

As we

A little

are about to sew

it

to the

Until

put in between.

strip,

To make

Down

back are seen,

it is

stronger grow.

bottom

we'll

complete

sew the way,

;

Then trim the seam, and rub it well With a bone found on the seat. 55

You

will

observe the back

The linings

is

are together

changed,

;

This can be quite well arranged

By whipping down

this leather.

Either whipping over and over, or through

and through, Just as the case Neither

way As we may

is

may be very new

;

clearly see.

But we should do

it,

and rub down flat,

For now the time has come

When we have had enough And our upper

is

of that,

near done. 57

The upper has now "

its

right side out,

Right-side out with care

A little

" ;

stitching at the top of the back

Will make

it

look quite

fair.

We

stopped stitching, you remember well r Before we reached the back,

When on the quarters we did And left a vacant truck.

dwell,

That track now

is filled

Yet we do hold

Knowing To put

that a time will it

on the

Before that time

The

up

eyelets,

well,

it fast,

is

come

last.

reached, however,

bear in mind,

Should each be put in proper So that the holes we find Will

let

the strings pass easily through,

When punched and

We have now Do

place,

try

set in straight

;

the upper for our shoe,

and make the mate.

This upper completed by the past,

Has made

it

For we must

And

Since

fit it

much

a treasure,

also have a last,

up

to measure.

we have kept our

A

seat so long,

back change may So at the bench we'll take our stand, rest our

;

Close by our friend, the jack.

The Bailey

jack

is

the

name

One, screwed down upon

of this

the post;

For general use it will not miss, But serve our end the most. 63

64

Toasts are

Of

made

of

ash, of oak,

Well seasoned

many woods,

and maple

;

stock of goods,

is this

Some kinds are very staple. Some are made with iron plates, To clinch the screw or nail, But when we would a peg shoe make, To use these plates would fail. Made, also, for men and boys,

Women Has on

and

girls, for

each

this art a special claim,

Their feet to train and teach.

To

dwell here longer would not do,

The

last

we want's

in the

We'll measure the same as

And The Will

sizes

you know, added on

make the

is

measured

toe so comfortable,

W e should like T

;

did the foot,

thus our trade command.

length,

Two

hand

we

to sing a song. 65

first

;

The

heel

And Some

we reach

in perfect order,

leave the measure neat

shoes are

broader

When

;

made which look much

put upon the 67

feet.

instep now we see again, And measure as before,

The

One-half inch off will answer us,

No For

less,

if

The

and not much more.

we do we

are apt to find

place where shoes do pinch

Across the ball we're Still

now

inclined,

measuring by the inch.

;

This

is at

times' a tender spot

r

Bunions develop there And when they do 'tis not forgot, We may be e'er so fair. ;

we leave As on our way we go,

One-quarter

size

off here,

Travelling on, without a fear,

Until

we

reach the toe.

Another quarter we would say, At this point we may drop,

For we are now quite far away From the ankle and the top

But further

yet,

we

boun

are

The bottom must be reached, \ Where soles are made and often saved, 'Though the saver be impeached.

The

last

we put upon

Of white or red

And mark

sole leather,

with knife, or pencil wide,

The parts

The

a side

of sole together.

parts are known, each one defined,

Inner and outer

A middle

one,

sole;

when we

are kind,

Lifts and shank piece make the whole. 73

-

The inner

sole

on the

last is put,

The pegs

just where you see Keep the sole where it belongs,

In order to agree.

The edge is bevelled from heel to heel The mark across the breast Shows us when and where we mav Take a

little rest.

:

The upper straight upon the With the seams appearing

The

stiffening

smooth

last,

right,

just at the back,

Will draw upon our sight.

This should be done when we begin

To draw So that the

the upper over, last in all its parts

Shall have a proper cover. 77

Draw

steady, until

At the heel and If these parts

It

it

close

;

should be too loose

would nearly

Draw steady, Which will

we have

at the toe

spoil the shoe.

or you'll

make

there remain

a crack,

;

Perhaps may cause us to go back, And do it over again. 79

80

The upper,

Drawn

in the

way

described,

gently at the toe,

We hold it

down with our left thumb, While &pey we try make go.

On either side of the toe now work, And in the same way fasten The upper down upon the sole; To the heel we now must hasten.

Let the upper at the seam

Have now a secure tack The

stiffening, all

;

straight in between

The lining and the

back.

Be "sure you get the lining smooth, The part inside the shoe ;

you may sometime thing to make you blue.

If it is not,

Have

a

83

Now

put the shoe upon the bench,

In the way shown in the cut with a string and button

;

And

Use

care to close the front.

We

no doubt now do see the thing Taking on a shape,

Which, in the end,

Us

will surely bring

clear out of the scrape. 85

The shoe

A hole, Serves to

is

placed on the jack/

pin in the last, keep the same intact,

While the

Now

now

for the

toe piece

at the breast,

holds

it fast.

draw over

outside,

Close upon the sole ;

Take your time, for something's gained, While filling up the hole.

The

awl,

you

see,

should not be large

;

In lasting use small pegs; Just drive them through the inner

No

danger of your legs. 87

sole,

We

will

The If

now

note the difference

inside

shank

we would last

We

must

The thumbs

When

it

is

longer

:

;

very smooth,

pull all the stronger. at this are very clever,

their part is nicely played,

Serving as a splendid lever,

While working

in the shade.

We

are

Be

now

at the inside ball

careful not to scratch

When

We

in position

are

we

more apt

it

;

are found

to catch

it.

When this we've caught, and feel safe to leave For the other

side,

We'll find the heel where the toe has been,

By

this

we must

abide.

Everything quite

The future

in its place,

for us yet

Let's last the upper 'Till at

Still

the toe

all

we

;

around,

get.

using awl mpincer hand,

Alternating endly,

For

at this post we've taken stand

To grow up very

friendly. 93

The

toe has crimps,

The

first is

Because the toe If

some

in the heel

;

more important, is

always seen

;

rough becomes discordant.

These crimps are made from

And

we go Then scallop them, when Not so when it we sew. right to left

left to right,

;

to be pegged,

The shank piece

in,

With crimps cut

the bottom as

was

Already for the middle

Which forms an even

On which we Is

filled,

said,

sole,

bed,

lay the outer sole /

The thing we look for next, moulded near the upper close,

And comes

quite near our text. 97

The middle

A And

sole will

make us have

better understanding,

help protect our feet from frost,

While we the trade commanding.

A

strap

is

used around the foot,

The shoe upon the knee;

To mould

the

sole,

as

These parts should 99

we have all

said,

agree.

When moulded Trim the

sole

Then make a

good, edge

prepared

full

from

last,

;

line for

pegs to go, For in this we have shared.

We

to our old friend jack

make

haste,

With our awl and hammer bright Begin to peg on the line we've marked ;

Six to the inch

is right.

Two rows

around, just in between,

Each other they are put Use them long enough to go ;

But save them from the

clear thro

foot.

The awl-hand picks up the pegs, The hammer-hand now takes, Between forefinger and the thumb,

And

By

for the hole

repeating this

it

makes.

we soon

shall

Our work ready for a lift ; But first, smooth pegs and trim Or

we'll

move along too

swift.

have

heel-seat,

The

first lift on, we'll

leave

the centre level

Making With our knife

We

in hand, not very dull,

are prepared to bevel.

In this way the heel

One

lift

upon

is built,

the other

Pegging each will add no

But save our subject

Piece by piece, until

;

guilt,

bother.

we

stop

At the proper height solid piece used for the top ;

A

it full,

;

Will

make

it

finish right.

Nails are driven, both iron

Around the

And on

A

the outside

some

few more nails to

Hammer

solid

Level as

it

and

steel,

top, in mind,

prefer

find.

both heel and

can be

Whittle the heel

sole

;

down

to a size

Close to the nails you'll see.

The heel-shave

To smooth

is

For when around Its

work

a tool so good,

the heel it

up

nice

;

you have gone,

will here suffice.

Cut down the Sand-paper

Then change

And done

breast, it, if

make

it

square,

you please

position very

;

fair,

with perfect ease.

Take out the welt with a knife to

Do

not cut the upper

This same thing

And

is

done to the boot,

neither has to suffer.

These tools are bought

Known Some

suit,

;

in stores.

to the craft as " finding ;"

are here from foreign shores,

Which

serve us a binding.

A

small knife take, and trim the edge

From the heel, around the toe, Down to the heel on the other side Our shoe begins

The bottom

to show.

buffed, all

but the top,

Sand-paper all, now, we think Just mark a place across the shank To be blackened well with the ink. ;

The bottom

And But

in this shape has come,

looks as

if

we've parted

that's not so, as

We

we

are nearer than

well

;

know

when we

started,

The ink when burnished with hot

A

little

heel ball is the thing

To use, so that To put upon

it

will

a king.

be

fit

kit

n6

Our

jack and

The

To

company seen

again,

last time for the present

;

part, perhaps, will give us pain

;

Perhaps be very pleasant.

A burnisher Use

For

for the heel, behold

briskly

when we

!

finish,

this tale is nearly told,

Its parts

seem

to dimmish.

Many parts have made the whole, Some parts are much effected ;

But when the parts are whole They do become respected.

in one,

The end

is

reached,

we

trust all safe,

After quite a travel;

Though

the road was rough from place to

place,

The thread did not

unravel.

J.

P. H., JE.

14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED

LOAN

DEPT.

RENEWALS ONLY TEL. NO. 642-3405 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed.

Renewed

y^-

-nhf"*

''~"*"

recall.

StP A

7H

1 /u

QV 03 1988 OCT d 28t0

W

YA 02151'

ICLF GENERAL LIBRARY

-

U.C.

BERKELEY