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Qass. Book.

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT

/

(^J

HOME DRESSMAKING

A

Sewing Room

HOME DRESSMAKING A COMPLETE GUIDE TO

HOUSEHOLD SEWING

BY

ANNIE

^

E.

MYERS

Fully Illustrated with more than One

Hundred Engravings

"^7

CHICAGO

y CHARLES

H.

SERGEL & COMPANY MDCCCXCII ,

Co

.-\'^

t^>

Copyright, 1892. By Charles H. Sergel & Company.

f'3ff^/

PREFACE.

In undertaking this

work there has been a higher

object than merely adding another to the long catalogue

My

of books.

who are trying to who wished to be allowed,

had

I

women young woman

great ambition has been to help

to

As

help themselves.

my

as well dressed as

work out

a

limited

for myself the principles of

my own

planning, cutting and making

gowns.

as a writer for newspapers and magazines, to formulate into

practical

wished

my

work.

for

words the knowledge

other

women

book

to

I

I

to help

in

There was none the help

I

both

had

Again, to study

had gained by

Many and many were

some book

writing.

means

the

times

my hand work

in the market.

vainly craved

I

To

I

and

offer

present this

the public.

Annie E. Myers.

CONTENTS CHAPTER

I

TOOLS FOR THE WORK Training for Hand-sewing

—The

Shears

—Tools

—The Sewing-room —Tools for Cutting for Sewing — Tools for Fitting — Tools

,...'....

for Pressing.

ii

CHAPTER H dressmakers' findings

— Facings—Wadding and Canvas— Fastenings—Whale.21 bones and Casings— Shields — Yokes.

Linings

.

CHAPTER HOW TO MAKE

.

.

III

DRESS SKIRTS Skirt — Skirt — Reeds.

— —

The Modern Gored Skirt The Foundation eries The Kilt Skirt The Trained Skirt

—

.

CHAPTER HOW TO MAKE

.

Drap .

29

IV

A BASQUE

—The Pattern— First Step in Making—Bast— Fitting the Lining — Fitting the Basque—Cuting out Stripes and Plaids — Stitching Seams — Finishing Seams —Pressing Seams— Finishing Closing Edges.

An Ordinary Basque ing the Lining

...

47

CHAPTER V HOW TO MAKE Boning a Basque

— Scale for

A BASQUE

— CONTINUED — Finishing Edges

Placing the Bones

—To Finish a Tailor Garment — Lead Weights. CHAPTER

.

.

64

VI

SLEEVES AND COLLARS Dress Sleeves

— Making

lars

— Revers

Collars

— Sewing in a Sleeve — Standing Collars—Turned-over Col-

a Coat Sleeve

Jacket and Cloak Sleeves

— Plastrons. vii

.....

78

CONTENTS

via

CHAPTER

VII

JACKETS AND CLOAKS Ladies' Tailoring

—Cutting

— Difi&culty—The Pattern — Sponging Cloth —Lining a Wrap — Finishing Seams. Its

Cloth

.

CHAPTER

89

VIII

PLAIN SEWING AND FANCY STITCHES

Sewing— Fine Stitching — Running Seams — Back— Hemming — Hem-Stitching —Felling—French Fell — Gathering — Shirring — Overcasting — Tucking — GussetsPatching — Sewing on Strings

Over-hand

Stitching

96

CHAPTER IX PLAIN SEWING AND FANCY STITCHES

CONTINUED

—Whipping — Binding — Cording — Piping—Darning —Chain-Stitch —Cross-Stitch— Herring-Bone Stitch — Loops Button-holes — Sewing on Pearl and Similar Buttons.

Slip-Stitching

.

no

CHAPTER X UNDERWEAR

—Cut, Fit and Making— Chemise — Drawers—CorsetCovers — Nightgowns—Petticoats — Dressing-Sacques — Wrappers — Aprons. .125

Materials

.

.

.

.

.

CHAPTER

.

.

.

XI

INFANTS' WARDROBES

How

to

Dress Baby

—A Simple

and Cloaks— Nurses'

Suits.

— — ......

Layette

CHAPTER

How

to

make

it

Caps 140

XII

children's CLOTHES

— Short Clothes— Small — An Apron.

American Mothers for Girls

— ........ CHAPTER

Boys' Clothes

Dress 148

XIII

DRESS TRIMMINGS

— Plain Binding and French Hem -Round Piping — Double Cord-edge — Straps and Bands—Fur Trimmings — Flounces — Pleating.

Bias Bands

Cord-edge

157

CONTENTS

ix

CHAPTER XIV SPECIAL COSTUMES

—

Costumes Bathing Suits— Dress for and Reform Dress To Dress for

Riding Habits— Cycling Business

—

Women — Artistic

the Photographer.

167

CHAPTER XV DRESS FOR HOME AND FOREIGN TRAVEL Travel — Dress for Southern Travel — Dress for —Dress for Ocean Travel.

Home

Dress for

the far East

....

189

CHAPTER XVI MOURNING

—Mourning for a Parent, Child or Sister Children's and School-girls' Mourning— Complimentary Mourning — Second Mourning — For the Neck.

Mourning

for

Widows

.

CHAPTER

.

.

.

200

XVII

BRIDAL OUTFITS

—

Gowns The Veil Weddings —The Best Date

Seasonable

— Bridesmaids' Dresses — For Quiet —Brides' Traveling Dresses —The

........

General Trousseau.

CHAPTER

206

XVIII

FANCY AND THEATRICAL DRESSING Materials for Stage Dresses

— Some Fancy Dresses,

—Effect of .

Color .

.

CHAPTER

—Waists and Skirts .

.

.

.215

XIX

HOW TO BE YOUR OWN MILLINER

—To Trim a Hat — How Make a Crowned Hat or Bonnet — Making Drawn Bonnets or Hats — Taste

Correct Taste Colors.

to

Stiff

..........

in

227

CHAPTER XX THE DRESSMAKER AT HOME

—

— .......

Three Methods Preparing Making Over Dresses.

for the

Home Dressmaker

Hints for 240

CHAPTER XXI FABRICS, LACES AND EMBROIDERIES

— Silk — Linen Cloth — Laces — Embroideries — Ostrich Feathers— Widths of Dress Fabrics.

Vel vet

,

....

249

CONTENTS

X

CHAPTER

XXII

THE HOUSEHOLD LINEN In what

it

must consist

— Darning

Table and Bed Linen

— The

Linen Closet

265

CHAPTER

XXIII

LAWS OF CORRECT DRESS

—

Considered from the point of Economy Considered from the point of Beauty Dress for Slender Women Dress for Stout Women Individuality in Dress Dress for Red Hair Dress Dress for Brown Hair Dress for Black Hair for Blonde Hair

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—Dress for Gray Hair—Jewels —General Remarks.

.

,

273

CHAPTER XXIV THE ETIQUETTE OF DRESS

—Correct Dress for the Morning—Correct Dress for Teas, Matinees and Afternoon Receptions — Correct Dress for Dinners— Correct Dress for Lawn Parties — Correct Dress for Driving and Coaching — Correct Dress for Weddings and Wedding Anniversaries — Correct Dress for Dancing Parties— Correct Dress for Mourning — Correct Dress for Servants.

Incongruities

.

295

CHAPTER XXV TERMS USED

IN

DRESSMAKING

31O

CHAPTER XXVI TO CUT A BASQUE PATTERN BY MOLDING

The Front — Back and Side-Bodies — Embellishments —The Sleeve

CHAPTER

318

XXVII

CUTTING-OUT BY MEASUREMENT

—Measurements— How take Measures —Verification of the Measurements — Variable Measurements — Draft of Pattern of a Dress — Verification of the Patterns for a Body Pattern for Basque — Dressing Gown — Low, Round Waist Transposing Measurements — Drawers for a Woman — Drawers for a Girl — Princess Apron — Apron with Straps — Apron for a

Introduction

Child

to

325

HOME DRESSMAKING A Complete Guide to Household Sewing

CHAPTER I TOOLS FOR THE WORK

—

TRAINING FOR HAND-SEWING THE SEWING-ROOM FOR CUTTING THE SHEARS TOOLS FOR SEWING FOR FITTING TOOLS FOR PRESSING

—

—

— TOOLS TOOLS

TRAINING FOR HAND-SEWING

When

a

woman

ally conclude she

attempts to make a dress, we natur-

knows how

to sew.

Let us hope she

has practiced running up long seams, both by hand

and machine, that she knows how gather,

and,

fell,

above

all,

to

to

hem, blind-stitch,

baste.

Our grand-

mothers served their apprenticeships piecing patch-

work together.

Nothing could be a better schooling.

There has been much

said,

and with good cause, against

the waste of time and talent over patchwork. skillful

and intelligent, spending days and weeks over

a bedquilt,

do

A woman,

is

not an ennobling thought.

She might

something more important, do much that would

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

12

make her world wider and those around her more comfortable, girl,

it

there

would seem. is

But, for

a

child

or

young

no better training for the hand, the eye

and the contriving, accurate intelligence than to neatly join pretty pieces of cloth into symmetrical designs.

complete and clear

In later chapters will be found

explanations of plain sewing and the clever but inexperienced

woman

will find therein

many

assistants to the

proper and effective use of the needle.

But

just here

the dressmaker

We

we must is

out with the idea that

start

capable of doing plain sewing.

would pause here, however,

to

value of hand-training for woman. the hand

is

skillful

use of

more perfect use the

It calls into

touch and the sight. the beautiful.

A

the

conducive to a well furnished

alwa5^s

and orderly mind.

comment upon

It

tends to

make

the useful also

The prejudice against manual labor is The little girl who

slowl}' but surely disappearing. is

now being educated

administrative work,

for

is

hands have been trained

any

field of intellectual

not well equipped to

and

unless her

do dainty needlework and

are skilled in other handicraft.

This physical develop-

ment along with the mental

according to nature's

is

method of preserving a balance of power and a proper equilibrium between the brain and hands.

THE SEWING-ROOM

With

the hands trained, the

woman who would make To

dresses must furnish herself with the proper tools.

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

13

begin with, she should have a sewing-room. the

economy

house, there

of the

If,

in

no room she can

is

devote exclusively to that purpose she must have one is

given up to that occupation for the time being.

It is as

absolutely necessary to have such a room to do

that

good dressmaking as cook

to

in

in,

a studio to

If it is at all

in. it

necessary to have a kitchen

paint

sanctum

in, a

write

to

possible, she should close herself

well,

up

one must give one's entire atten-

whole mind,

tion, one's

making

as in

one should

just

is

with her tools and fabrics and forbid interruption.

To do anything

tools

it

to

everything

such a room

liave

may be kept

This

it.

is

true

in dress-

Another reason why

else. is,

that

all

materials and

there together in their places and

where the hand maybe put upon them the instant And, when such a room

they are needed.

may

purpose, pieces of fabric

to that

turbed and ready for use. up, they are often thrown

If

be

left

they must be

away and

devoted

is

undis-

gathered

are missing

when

they are wished for afterward.

This room may be furnished as simply as can be imagined, yet

it

must have two

cane-bottomed square chair

low one. to

sew

in,

We

chairs, an

medium

of

ordinary

height and a

would not recommend a rocking chair

but a low rattan chair without rockers

just the thing.

A

footstool

is

also

is

a very convenient

A woman who when she sews should have

thing to have in a sewing-room.

pins

her work to her knee

that

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

14

foot on a stool.

This relieves the back

of

much bend-

ing and back-aches are less frequent.

TOOLS FOR CUTTING

The

For cutting ample provision should be made. table

upon which material

ting should be perfectly

laid preparatory to cut-

is

smooth and

of sufficient

dimen-

sions to permit the largest patterns to be laid out

For such pieces

entirely.

as a trained

this is often not practicable but the

or kilted skirt

worker must then

exercise her most careful ingenuity and judgment.

home dressmaker

is

The

often led into the most expensive

We

mistakes by cutting out on the floor or bed.

can

not be too urgent against such a proceeding.

Therefore in our sewing-room there must be a table at least four feet long

The

out.

of

best table

If this

tables

the

feet

wide

for cutting

substantial ordinary one

smooth, even surface and square

wood, with a

corners.

and three is

is

not available, one of the folding

of at least that size

is

reasonably convenient.

They are certainly entirely satisfactory for cutting but a more substantial one is better for pressing, and there is no reason why the same table should not be used for both purposes.

When

working

or pressing, one

at the

should

table, either sit,

not stand.

one can easily reach across three feet

on either side.

cutting, basting

When

feet of space

sitting

and two

This saves much tiresome bend-

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

15

ing of the body and wearied feet and legs at the end of the season of sewing.

This table

in the

sewing-room will be used

for all

sorts of other purposes beside cutting out the original

But an ordinary lap-board should

garment. provided.

It

be used when

will often

or pleatings on the bottoms of skirts

Perhaps

the sewing-room

much depends

is

it

will be

found

In dressmaking

beginning upon clean, evenly cut

In basting or stitching seams the eye

edges.

flounces

the most important tool in

a pair of shears.

in the

be

cutting small

when putting

pieces like collars and facings and

indispensable.

also

is easily,

although often unconsciously, influenced by the outlined edges and where

seam

is

they are rough or uneven the

wavering and inaccurate.

Clean cut and even edges also influence the stitcher to finish the

seams

in a neater

She

manner.

will with-

out thinking execute that part of the work with greater precision.

THE SHEARS Long, slender and sharp blades should characterize

Never attempt

the shears used.

rough or rusty ones with a loose little

embroidery

scissors.

a

garment with

rivet,

dull,

nor with dainty

Use shears

of

good metal

not less than eight inches long with bent handles, with well sharpened ends and riveted just tight

enough that

no resistance will be noticeable when opening and closing them. in use.

Take care

of

them when they are not

Keep them from dampness and do not

let

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

1

them

as that will often impair the

fall

nicety of their

adjusted blades.

TOOLS FOR SEWING Ever}' sewing

room should have

and capable

light running

to the lightest fabrics.

and

in order.

Do A little

not let

It

should be kept well oiled

should also be kept perfectly clean.

become clogged up with dust

it

kerosene will clean

turn must be wiped

off

all

all

this

or old

away, when

oil. it

in

and the machine properly oiled

with the best machine sperm

have

is

sewing from the heaviest

of

It

machine that

a

oil.

It

is

pleasant to

the attachments invented with the machine,

but for dressmaking one must have the hemmers, the tuckers and the gatherer.

provide a scrap bag

in

At the side of the machine

which can be stowed away use-

less pieces, and thus save the bother of picking them off

the floor later.

Two

bags are not too many

absolutely useless pieces, the

may be found useful There are many minor

that

furnishings which

will

;

one for

other for larger scraps

later on.

details of the sewing-room's

gradually be

provided

accumulated as the sewer prosecutes her work.

and

But

her sewing basket must be well stocked to commence. It

to

should be a strong basket or box sufficiently large

meet

all

needles of quality.

thread.

ordinary requirements.

all

sizes

It

and chosen from those of good

Those with egg-shaped eyes

are the easiest to

They should have long taper

impossible to sew on

must contain

stiff

points, as

it is

material with a conical-pointed

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

17

needle without pricking one's fingers at every stitch. Tn every case the needle must be large enough to draw the thread through the fabric without the least effort.

There must be pins silk

in

in plenty, cotton thread

and spool

both white and black with a good large spool

There must be an emery bag,

of coarse basting cotton.

which should be home made, as those bought dise stores

than good

generally filled with anything rather

are

There should be a square

filings.

white soap.

A

merchan-

in

seam

linen

by hand or machine. before commencing,

If

all

is

hard

of

seam

a difficult

sew

to

you pass the soap over

the difficulty

it

instantly re-

is

moved. There must be

Two

in this basket a well

thimbles are even better, as

to be forced to stop tarily

is

it

very provoking

and hunt a thimble that has momen-

disappeared just when you most need

must exactly

fit

the finger.

the extra space

is

filled

with paper or rag,

the thimble too heavy and the thread

There must be a lead pencil and

a

They

it.

uncomfortable

It is ver}'

work with a thimble which turns on the

to

thimble.

fitted

finger; it

is liable to

good tape

if

renders catch.

line

and

a pair of button-hole cutters with a gauge are a great

Equally pleasant to have

convenience.

at

hand are

a

sharp steel punch or chisel and a perforated bodkin for

drawing

a cord or tape

through clings or hems.

This basket should be provided with a cover to keep its

tools free

from

silk as long as

all

but ordinary dust.

the basket around

its

A

piece of

top and about

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

1

six inches

sew one

wide makes

good cover.

a

Join

its

ends and

Then run

edges to the basket top.

of its

a

casing in the other edge of the silk and pass a drawing-string through

and closed

Thus the cover may be opened

it.

at pleasure.

A medium

size leaded pincushion

venient for use in pinning the work. the

to

knee

is at

it

causes.

hand, the cloth

When

extremely con-

Pinning the cloth

very poor policy, on

is

fatiguing stoop

is

account

of

the leaded pincushion

so easily attached, and a

is

the

woman

who has become accustomed to one will never be it. They are easily made, the heavy piece

without

of lead being securely fill

hidden

in

the sawdust used to

the cushion.

TOOLS FOR FITTING

There

is

an absolute necessity for a mirror in which

may be

the entire figure

bodice or short

surveyed.

wrap the general

Even effect

in

fitting a

should be the

Their lengths can only be decided

thing considered.

correctly in reference to the entire length of the figure.

The

best mirror

is

one that swings in a frame.

a one in a dressing-case

is

are less expensive ones called easel mirrors. are

beyond the means

on the

floor

at

at

If

these

hand, place any ordinary mirror

an angle Avhere a view of the entire

figure can be obtained.

with the wearer.

Such

very convenient, and there

The gown must harmonize

In other words, you must adapt the

materials to yourself, and this can only be done by see-

ing yourself as others see you.

TOOLS FOR THE WORK next best help one can have for this purpose

The

adjustable wire

an

19

The forms

form.

is

may be

that

adjusted to correspond with neck, waist and bust measure are few and expensive, all,

they are of any value at

if

but there are skirt figures that

couple of dollars

may

eries

may

be bought for a

— they are a capital investment.

be adjusted with the greatest ease

Drap-

when they

are used.

TOOLS FOR PRESSING

Among the most importanttools are aflatiron and some means

of

heating

In this day of steam radiators

it.

often no such

means

There have been

hand.

at

there

is

many

inventions given an aggrieved and credulous pub-

etc., is

but the best thing

no reason why

it

is

a

Remember

it

so,

;

nothing but

and

it

heats a

few moments. there

of the garment.

is

everything

This applies

in the

to

proper pressing

the skirt seams, the

hems, the bodice seams and facings and as well.

There

kerosene stove.

little

should be dangerous

the grossest carelessness makes flatiron in a

burners,

to gas jets, alcohol

such as attachments

lic,

A good

investment

to the sleeves

a couple of press boards,

is

one for skirts and a smaller one for bodices and sleeves.

Any carpenter trifle,

will

make them and

the cost

is

but

a

while the convenience will more than repay an

even greater expenditure.

A

skirt

board

should be

about forty-four inches long, the length of an ordinary skirt

be

and nine inches wide.

five

The

sleeve board should

inches in width and twenty-seven inches long.

20

TOOLS FOR THE WORK

Give them each

at least

add a cotton cover.

one thickness of flannel and

With

these and a couple

flat-irons and plenty of strength, the

may be made

homemade

a very presentable affair-

of hot

dress

CHAPTER

II

DRESSMAKERS' FINDINGS

—

FACINGS WADDING AND CANVAS EASTENINGS WHALEBONES AND CASINGS SHIELDS — YOKES

LININGS

—

LININGS

Those who undertake

to learn the trade of

dressmak-

ing find that silesia, braid and canvas represent the

B

The novice

C's of the art.

will

do well

pattern or idea in the smooth, firm silesia.

It is

makes the mistake

of

plunging

at

who

once into

plexities of silks, velvets and furbelows.

ments are pretty sure liable to

waste

a

inexpensive

but

the amateur dressmaker

A

to try every

frequently all

the per-

Such experi-

She

to result disastrous!}'.

is

great deal of material and to expend

much time and patience in several thousand times many stitches that she gives up trying to sew at all. How much better to begin with the anatomy of the

so

too

dress.

Master the

essential

fit

in the linings,

which

to the successful fabrication,

is

reall}-

and then suc-

cess awaits further along the line of experience and a

garment proud.

is

achieved of which the maker

may

well feel

DRESSMAKERS FINDINGS

22

"But what kind

of linings

should we use?" do you

ask? In the

course

economy

not

is

Such

use old linings.

place, don't

first

a

For with linings that

at all.

have lost their firmness and body no waist can be made to

no

fit,

be

skirt

made

hang properly.

to

sometimes

of buttons, although the latter can again

used more frequently.

plentiful

be

Yet cloth buttons are usually

worn shiny and metal ones

Have

The same may

of whalebones, hooks and eyes, braids and

said

are tarnished.

and good lining materials.

Ail dress

except some cottons, require a foundation

fabrics,

them from

protect

strain

;

to

cloths and woolens stretch,

laces and sheer woolens tear and silks cut and split with-

out a good under foundation.

cambric and

Silk,

Each has

its

recommended

entirely unsuited are

by

all

silesia

to

are each

qualities

in

turn

used.

and each again

certain purposes.

odds the most elegant and comfortable.

be sure they are a

little

expensive in the

is

Silk linings

first

To

outlay

but they wear so well and are so light in weight, perfect in

fit

and generally elegant

in appearance, they are

favored by our leading and best modistes.

For dresses intended

for

general wear the soft fine

French cambric can not be too highly recommended. Silesia is also an admirable lining material for almost

any dress and its

sleeves

as well.

it is

for all its

parts.

For the waist and

unsurpassed, and for the skirts of dresses

DRESSMAKERS' FINDINGS The purpose

a dress

of

lining

23

twofold.

is

It

ladies will tell

you they use good, perhaps the best

linings for the waist, not quite so

and that anything

do

Avill

and wear on the sleeves

There

of a dress as

for the

is

as

These

much

strain

upon the waist and

The only skirt,

difference

where a lighter

can be used, as there

less strong material

it

is

only

and really no strain

the neat finish and protection,

upon

for the sleeves,

is just

the linings should be the same.

which may be made

good

for the skirt of a dress.

are mistaken economies.

and

is

Some

necessary as a neat finish and as a foundation.

it.

FACINGS

Beside the linings proper accessories which

must be provided, that must be

classed with them.

among them. as to

which

The

There

is

for skirts there are several

is

facing for skirts comes quite a diversity of

preferable of

some three

first

opinion

or four which

are all in general use.

Perhaps we are safe in saying a majority sional dressmakers

barred

face

This certainly makes a one which ly

their

crinoline, afterward

is

addicted

skirts first with cross-

covering

with alpaca.

soft finish to the skirt

to gathering

we may

urge,

And and

is

and holding dust.

objectionable for the same reason

tion

it

thick and clumsy and one which

covered with alpaca.

of profes-

there that

is

is is

but also extreme-

Equally

the use of canvas yet another objec-

such facings do not

DRESSMAKERS' FINDINGS

24

wear well and are very hard upon the shoes

the

of

wearer.

Ladies who have their skirts finished in this manner find themselves in a very short

rags and

tatters

around their

feet,

time forced to trim

and,

if

the dress

is at all

durable, the

facing must be renewed at least twice during

Very much

ence.

and the

better,

soft finish is the cotton

work

off

look untidy with them hanging

or

for

When

padding.

its exist-

cleanliness

durabilit)^,

it is

of facing a skirt is greatly simplified,

it

used,

being

easily put on as will appear in our extended directions for facing a skirt in a following chapter.

Every

skirt

must be finished with a braid

a little extra finish

braid

is

or a vel-

Pleated braids are sometimes used

veteen band.

used

it

is

required, but

when

when an ordinary

should be one of the best and then

will not be a narrow one, but

wide enough

to

cover

it

all

edges.

WADDING AND CANVAS Findings First

is

more complex. we have suggested be-

for the waists of dresses are

the lining proper, which as

fore should be either silesia, cambric or silk. is

used, let

dress.

it

be the color of the dress unless

Black lining should never be used

Whichever it

be a black

for waist or

sleeves and dark gra3MS better for black skirts too,

black

may be sometimes employed

for

quite likely to soil the underwear.

good

silesias

woven black on one

side

them.

still

It

is

There are many

and dark gray

DRESSMAKERS' FINDINGS

25

on the other, which will be found useful for some purposes.

There are but few women

— or

men

either

Many

forms do not require some "building up".

makers place a

of

laj^er

— whose dress-

wadding between the lining

and the dress fabric reaching from the shoulders to the top of the darts.

This certainly gives a smoothness

over the bust, that

is

desirable, still

it

greatly increases

the warmth.

One

thickness of light quality of canvas

accomplishes

the

same end and

of the sleeves,

be given the

from the shoulder

is

When

is

between the lining

dress fabric below the

tops of the darts

not

the form

inclined to be too large below the waist, one

ness of canvas placed

keeping a basque or polonaise

tops

elbow should

same treatment when the form

plump and bones make unevennesses. is

The

cooler.

to the

thick-

and

the

assists in

in shape.

FASTENINGS

When

buttons are used, the button-holes are a seri-

ous question for the dressmaker and must be neatly

worked with good

twist, or the

garment

even when handsome fabrics are used. will be

When

found

full instructions

hooks and

In Chapter IX.

concerning button-holes.

are used for closing, the

ej^es

teur dressmaker should

not beautiful

is

ask

for

bent hooks, as

slightly bent near the point stay fastened. it is

amathose

Otherwise

necessaray to sew them on alternately, which makes

them very inconvenient

for

closing.

used instead of eyes on the outer part

Small

rings

of dress waists

DRESSMAKERS' FINDINGS

26

should be covered with silk

The very

button-hole stitches.

in

up

fastenings are also excellent for keeping skirt

:

wrap

large hooks and eyes used as cloak and a

heavy

four of the hooks being set on the waist just

below the

— two

belt,

on the seam joining the back and

side-forms and one on each under-arm seam are placed

on the

band

skirt

to

the eyes

;

correspond and the

wearer hooks them before fastening the inside belt of her dress.

WHALEBONES AND CASINGS

The use sider.

of

whalebones

an important item to con-

is

Most ladies require every seam stayed.

seams were curved absolutely perfectly be necessary, but this

When

are

stays

Nothing

only.

either

would not

it

seldom encountered.

art is

needed, use

tin, steel

rust,

the

best wht^lebones

and rubber have

break

Galloon must be provided run the stays.

the

else wears so well nor gives the proper

Horn,

elasticity.

used, and

If

or

for

all

been

twist unpleasantly.

casings in which to

Casings of lining material make clumsy

seams.

Ribbon seams

for binding the edges of the waist

finish the waist in the

With loops to

to

hang up the

this

and sleeves

most acceptable manner.

go in each armseye of the same by which waist, a neat finish

ribbon binding

is

delight in the snuggest

is

given.

However,

repudiated by some ladies fits.

They

insist the

who

binding of

edges draws the seams and demand rather they shall be loosely top sewed and pressed.

DRESSMAKERS' FINDINGS

27

In any case a sufficient length of binding tor an inside belt

seams

must be provided

usually fastened in front by

It is

attach at the back

to

at the waist-line to take the strain off the front.

medium

sized hooks

and eyes. SHIELDS

Dress shields must be provided, large ones in the armseyes, and ladies

who

perspire profusely use small

ones in the sleeves at the elbow curve.

Some

ladies abominate

They buy the wash them in It is also

them out This

clean soap suds.

good practice

change then

cheap shields

best and take

often.

to

for dresses.

at intervals

is

and

not a bad idea.

purchase cheaper ones and

None

are perfect and

neatness

requires they should be changed as soon as the slightest

odor can be detected. to

In any case

it

is

good policy

buy shields by the half dozen pair and so have them

always at hand. A RESUME

For

a

medium

sisting of a

sized

woman's ordinary costume, con-

walking length skirt and a basque with

coat sleeves, the following findings will be found necessary

If silesia is

:

used

five

and one-half yards

one and one-half yards

for the waist

for the sleeves, or a total of

eight yards.

skirt,

silk is

used ten yards will be found

skirt facing

Add

If

ordinary

sufficient.

For the

one yard of canvas, with one yard

or one yard of

padding alone,

to these three long

if

for the

and one yard

the latter

is

of alpaca,

preferred.

whalebones, one boltofbraid,

DRESSMAKERS' FINDINGS

28

one bolt of ribbon

to

bind seams, one piece of galloon

whalebone casings, one card of hooks and eyes or

for

one and one-half dozen

of

medium

button,

sized

two

spools of twist, one of sewing silk and one spool of

basting cotton.

The of all to

findings required for jackets and outside wraps

kinds will be fully treated in chapters devoted

such garments.

To conclude and

at the

same time be

would say do not buy cheap

Do

pay. false

explicit we They do not

findings.

not use old linings or whalebones.

economy. Findings do not show

word, but they

tell

in

one sense

It

is

of the

every time in wear and general

comfort.

YOKES

A

word

as to

keeping the whole gown

doing away with wire yoke such

and

'

closet wrinkles.

as

tailors

after turning the dress

"

in

Buy

a

shape and

wooden

or

use for suspending coats,

wrong side out

waistband and slip the whole over the yoke. the folds of the drapery, preventing

fasten the It

spreads

them from being

crushed into an unshapely mass, and keeps the founThese dation from stretching down at the seams.

yokes are inexpensive, and

goods store.

may

be found at any dry-

CHAPTER III HOW TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

—

THE MODERN GORED SKIRT THE FOUNDATION SKIRT SKIRT DRAPERIES THE KILT SKIRT THE TRAINED SKIRT REEDS THE MODERN GORED SKIRT

The

size

and st3de

of skirts vary

with each edict of styles

upon

which the changes are rung, the short walking

skirt

fashion.

However,

and the trained into the is

a

round

skirt.

full skirt

mere matter

top on a band,

gored skirt

is

tliere are

two general

Walking

skirts

and the gored

of straight seams, a

tliat

may be

skirt

;

hem, and

anyone can make.

divided

the former a gathered

But the shapely

a different thing.

The modern gored skirt is the work of an artist. Some one has said "the making of one is like singing an old ballad. A novice may sing a grand operatic aria but

it

and

to

takes a genius to sing 'Comin' thro' the Rye,'

make

a gored skirt.

design but most

difficult of

Both are most simpte construction."

There are three things which go skirt

;

first

in

to

make

a

perfect

an accurate cut, second a neat finish and

third a thorough pressing. 29

HOJV TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

30

The walking skirt most used is rather narrow in its proportions. The only skirt less ample was the one which showed

its

back breadth gored

the top to

at

fit

as close as the present front and side-gores do. 7 Inches.

Z^Inches.

18 Fnches.

< CD

18 Inches.

THE FOUNDATION SKIRT

Every

skirt should be

foundation. erly gored

It

and not too wide.

one front-gore, breadth.

made with

a

perfectly fitted

should be of easy walking length, prop-

two side-gores

For a lady

of

medium

It is

usually cut with

and a straight back size

who

will

measure

twenty-four inches around the waist the following are the correct measurements for each part.

The

front

gore will be fifteen inches wide at the top with a dart

two inches wide allowed

for

on each side of the mid-

HOU^ TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS die of the front.

It is forty

31

inches in length in front

sloped to forty-one inches in length at the sides

but

is

and

at the

bottom

is

The

twenty-two inches wide.

side-

gores are each forty-one inches in length at their front sides and forty-two where they are joined to their back

breadth.

They

are seven inches wide at the top with

two inches allowed for darts and are gracefully curved to sixteen inches just

width

in

one yard in width

two at its sides middle.

When

the back has

which

is

at the

its entire

The back

bottom.

length, which

is

is forty-

sloping to forty-four inches in the

quarter-inch-wide

all its

seams

fulness gathered

taken,

are

inches,

into five

the correct proportion.

For home dressmakers

it

is

much

the best plan to

use a good pattern for this skirt, as no rule given in figures can explain the graceful curves

should show to give the best ill

is

always dowdy

looking.

A

effect.

No

which each gore skirt that

matter

how

hangs

elabor-

ately draped or trimmed, a badly shaped foundation skirt ruins all.

The

materials used for the foundation skirt vary with

the fabrics

employed

ple suppose

we

serge, cloth or

for drapery.

We

will for

require one for a dress of silk.

In which case the

exam-

cashmere,

skirt

should

be of lining silk the same color or a shade harmonizing with

it.

However, good

silk linings

an abomination) are expensive, and materials

which make admirable

(poor ones are there

linings.

are

other

By some

sateen and silesia are preferred and the latter cannot be

HOW

32

too highly It is it is

TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

recommended except

in the matter of weight.

Yet

always heavier than any other skirt lining,

French cambric

not too weighty.

also an excel-

is

lent material for skirts.

Whatever the material chosen, cut the

front and back

breadths on a lengthwise fold of the goods and the sidegores with their front edges on straight edges of

The seams

this foundation

of

are

skirt

of

it,

course

sewed up separately from the outside or draped portions.

They may be sewed

smooth sides

so that the

seams are on the underside

of the

and their rough

of the skirt

edges next the draperies. The facings in that case should all

be cut to

For heavy

fit

the skirt after

skirts

it

is

for four inches at least

freedom in walking.

its

closed.

better to slash the front-gore

on

lower edge to give greater

its

This

is

whose leather over the instep

a great saving to shoes,

otherwise

is

through while the other parts are is

seams are

intact.

often

A

worn

tight braid

very wearing in that respect.

The foundation

of

most

skirts

is

faced on the upper

side under the draperies, four inches with material of

This facing

the drapery. skirt with its

is laid

on each portion of the

upper edge turned under and stitched down

on the lining, before the skirt seams are sewed. to

sew each seam (and there

top, allowing all

careful not to

entire novice

unevenness to

fall at

stretch any bias

it is

Begin

will be four in all) at the

the bottom.

edges.

If

Be

you are an

the best plan to both pin and baste the

seams before stitching them.

It will

often save hours

I/Of!^ of

TO

MAKE DRESS When

worry and ripping.

press

each one down

33

the seams are stitched,

turning them alwa3S toward

flat,

method

the back, this

SKIRTS

seams

better than laying the

is

In either case the edges should be overcast or

open.

warm

top-sewed, and thoroughly pressed, with a

Then

down

lay the skirt folded

and back portions so that the corresponding

front

seams are together, on the top, and then pare

The

Let them be even

a table.

off

any unevenness

matter of inside facing

is

at the

almost

is

really required,

face

the question

resolve it

down

is a simple thing to

your walking

A

skirts.

neatly finish the bottom

of

facing

one

much How-

as

diversity of opinion as there are dressmakers.

when we

at

bottom.

a very important

and also one upon which there

ever,

iron.

the middle at the

to

what

is

decide

how

to

required to

is

a skirt, and

a facing

is

required to obviate any luipleasant clinging about the

What

limbs when walking. requirements

is

cover

best

will

both

what we want.

Some dressmakers contend

that

this

is,

first

a five-

inch piece of crinoline or canvas and tlien a piece of alpaca.

Another will demand a hem lined

inches with horse

hair

simplest

way

is

another demands

cloth, still

canvas or buckram in like width.

In most things the

best way, and

the

for twelve

we

believe

it

is

especially true in putting on a skirt facing.

Much

practice and experience convince us that skirt

padding used alone is

the cheapest.

is

In

the best thing and

some

localities

this

it

certainly

material

is

HO]V TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

34

But

called by other names.

a

it is

moderate weight fab-

ric

glazed on one side and likecanton

It

possesses sufficient stiffness but at the same time

it is

pliable

and does not render even the lightest

ungraceful.

and when

is

required

it

The

its

may be wiped

durability

will last as long as

neatest

manner

skirt

which sheds the dust,

a fabric

It is also

Again,

cloth. tion:

it

on the other.

flannel

any

with a

off

damp

recommenda-

great

a

is

skirt.

of putting

on a facing

is,

after the

lower edge of the skirt has been properly pared, tocut the facing eight inches deep and to

seam the

skirt

it

fit

Then

exactly.

and facing's lower edges together on the

inside and turn.

The upper edge

of the facing

should

be cut in fine notches and just below them stitch

down on

Then

the skirt lining.

finish

the

it

smooth

edge with the customary braid.

Always use the best

braid,

usage of any portion of the in water

and allowed

stitched on the skirt.

to

receives the hardest

it

skirt.

It

should be dipped

thoroughly dry before

it

is

Otherwise, even the "warranted

not to shrink" braid will draw up on the skirt foundation.

The above tom

directions are ample for finishing the bot-

of a skirt

tern and the

when you have

padding

is

cut over a perfect pat-

it

used.

When

a skirt design

used that has not the proper spring given

disagreeable

foot

is

it is

to walk,

pulled back by the

is

gores, other

Every woman knows

resources must be called upon.

how

its

when

skirt.

at

This

every step the is

obviated by

HOll' TO

MAKE DRESS SK/RTS

twice slashing for four inches

the

foot

35

of the skirt's

front-gore and covering the slashes with pleating.

Some are not

dainty imported dresses for wear in the house

bound with

braid, but are simply faced

with

Attached to this facing inside the skirt

silk.

pinked

of silk instead of the»lace balayeuse

frill

is

a

some-

times formerly employed.

To

protect the extreme lower edges of skirts which

of

to.

At the

at

many expedients shops many new"protectors"

extra length,

are

are

resorted

are found and

once recall those used for a similar purpose some years

The new

ago.

ones, of course, have the advantage of all

the improvements of progression.

buckram, which

is

widely bound with rubber cloth and

either pleated to a binding

the shape of the train, or

shaped

like the

Several kinds are of

bottom

which curves the protector

is

sewed

to

to a j^oke-like piece

These

of the skirt at the back.

protectors extend across the sweep of the skirt only.

The

Others, however, are in the nature of a facing. ing material

enough

is

a strip of blacksilesia orserge,

to pass

and

is

fac-

long

completely round the skirt foundation.

For a

sufficient distance to

at the

back this facing

is

extend around the sweep again

faced with a stirp of

rubber cloth securely stitched on, and as this comes next the surface on which one the edges of

the skirt

and

is

its

walking,

it

foundation

prevents

becoming

worn, soiled or damp.

A

braid

Stitched to

is it

.also supplied for a

which has

sufficient

portion of

a rubber strip its

length to

TO MAKE DRESS SKIJRTS

JJOIF

36

protect the sweep of the skirt

;

and folded rubber

strips,

which look like pipings, are made to extend entirely round the skirt and are very satisfactory

Most

ity of protector.

brown and

in gray,

of these protectors

capac-

in the

may be found

black.

When the

the lower edge of

foundation

completed,

skirt

is

should also

it

be finished at the top before

draperies are ad

its

A placket-opening

justed.

must be provided either the back

This

is

or

at

one

at

side.

done by making an

opening either

in a

seam or

by cutting the material the depth top.

INSIDE OF FINISHED SKIRT

of ten inches

from the

Face the upper or

Overlapping

side

with a

two-inch-widestrip of the material of the draperies.

sew

in a

seam

same material and tacking

A

it

let

fast at its

Then

opposite side a double flap of the

to the

it

extend under the faced side,

lower end to the opposite facing.

pocket should then be put in along the second

right-side seam.

It

may be made

of either silk or siiesia

and must be faced with the material of the dress each side of its opening.

When skirt

these preliminaries are completed the entire

must be most thoroughly pressed on the long

board with a hot iron.

skirt

HOW

TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

The adjustment

woman

small

hips of

a

matter.

The

of the foundation

are stitched and

about

skirt,

comparatively

is

darts in the front and in

the

simple

a

side-gores

the

back

the

the fulness at

37

held in

is

gathers.

The band

be added in one

of the required size ma)'

two ways.

of

First, the

edge

of

the

band may be

basted on the under or wrong side of the

tacking

skirt,

the middle of the band to the middle of the front and the tops of the seams on either side at corresponding dis-

Then

tances on the band. yourself that

it

tr}'

on the

skirt,

and

hangs perfectly even and easy.

satisfy

The

re-

mainder of the work will be done on the machine,

which

is

difficult

to

consequently

rip,

When

should be made now.

and the upper edge of the

all

changes

satisfied, stitch the

skirt

band

Then turn it down

together.

over the band with the seam inside and stitch

on the

skirt.

sewing and

is

The second manner with a band, size.

all

hand

of finishing the top of the

skirt

This process does away with a very neat finish.

make the band of belting may be used.)

is to first

(A piece

of

the required

Then

turn

under the edge of the skirt a quarter of an inch, securing

it

with a running stitch.

the front and the seams to the

Then band

tack the middle of in their respective

positions and lay the fulness of the back in pleats or gathers.

After which fell the band to the skirt edge by

hand with a strong thread.

HOW

38

TO

MAKE DRESS SKIRTS To sew the

the gathered portion to see

belt,

illustration.

portions sewed to the belt, close

over-casting stitch, are the

stitches

gathering

the

of

Supplying the deep pleatS which

Sewing Skirt Gathers

When

there

is

by

place

in

about one-half

a

below

inch a

sew

of

the

line

strong of

Then

across.

stitches being too

the

material

the

pleated up and sewed as pleated to the belt,

The advantage

the uncompleted portion. ering over real pleats upright,

pleats

is

sewed

is

evenly

shown

in

of this gath-

that the gathered pleats are

and the material below hangs are

stitches

gathering.

gathering stitch has to be dis-

carded, the intervals between to

row

great deal of material to gather into

a small compass, the

wide

them-

between them

selves, the intervals

are secured

The with a

freely,

while

the belt and confine the

flatly into

material more.

For stouter women a bodice worn over

it,

and

skirt it is

band mars the a good

fit

of the

practice to face

the entire top of the skirt, gathering the fulness of the

back on tapes and so use no band

at all.

SKIRT DRAPERIES

Before the draperies are added, the best skirts are given a pleating of the dress material.

This pleating

should be five or six inches wide and should be stitched fast to the

upper side

of the

foundation

skirt.

HOW TO MAKE The

DRESS SKIRTS

39

draperies of skirts are so varied and often so

complex, according as fashion dictates, only generalities It

can be considered in this work. requires great skill to cut skirt draperies without a

pattern.

Only experienced dressmakers should attempt so generally results in much worry and a

To do

it.

waste of material.

When

should be

cut in

ies

cloth,

and

first

this

is

attempted, the draper-

soft

paper or some cheap

it

used as a guide in cutting the more

expensive dress fabric.

When

the

draperies are cut, stitch

together and press the seams.

edge in a medium sized hem. silk

and cotton

with a fine

may

fabrics,

blind

it

Unless the material

is

hem

all

the breadths

turn up the lower

For bordered materials, best to secure this

stitching, but

often be enhanced by

best to stiffen this

is

Then

cloths

and

hem

suitings

machine stitching the hem.

heavy and firm

in quality

it Is

with crinoline before stitching.

The edge

of draperies are of-

ten best finished by a false

hem

of the foundation material, (C)

about six inches wide, (B) after

having overcast an interlining muslin (A) to the lower edge of the skirt. finished

A FALSE

HEM

The as

false

hem

being

illustrated, place

^raid at the lower edge, not in

the ordinary binding style, doubled in half and conceal-

HOJV TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

40

ing the whole edge, but sewed inside the skirt and left quite

fiat.

For cloths and other heavy woolens the

makes the neatest

The of the

hem

stitches of the tailor

Thin paste

right side.

hem adhere

to

make

the halves

together, and to facilitate flattening

which

the paste and a

are invisible from the

employed

is

Three inches from the edge tack a

in with the iron.

straight line

be the edge of the

is to

hot

Have

skirt.

Apply the paste

at hand.

iron

inside with a brvish, not too thickly, where the to

hem

tailor

finish.

hem

is

bend over, on the three inches below the tacking.

As you iron

safety,

hem

paste, turn over the

it flat

and then hem

at the

tacking, and

Tack down the hem

and smooth.

for greater

invisibly, passing the needle

it

only half through the cloth, so that no vestige of the stitch appears

thickness of beautifully

Now

on the right side.

the

cloth, should

smooth and even.

cloth color, not cotton.

The

be perfectly

silk

tailoring injures the color of

also not strong

enough

When a skirt or

tunic

of stitching, the tailor

to is

in spite of the

Sew with

silk

fiat,

and

of

the

must be strong and

of excellent quality, as the constant in

remove the tack-

Your hem

ing and iron a second time.

damping necessary

cheap

hem and

silk,

which

edged with one or more rows

hem

is

not necessary, although

the pasting and ironing are advisable before the is

is

stitch thick cloth.

hem

put under the machine to be stitched.

When

this

hem has been

carefully pressed, turn

no IF TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS under half an inch

at the top of the draperies

them into place on the foundation Cover this edge with a

Now comes

fiat

;

it

fell

skirt, at the waist.

It is as

into use the skirt stand.

facilitates the

and

galloon or braid.

sary as the sewing machine;

venience

41

it is

neces-

a comfort and a con-

work and much better

results

can be produced by arranging the draperies and sewing them into place while the foundation skirt

Draping

stand.

length here.

at

is

It is

on the

ornamental and must be an expres-

sion of the existing fashion

To

is

too changeable in style to be treated

finish the skirt,

and the

along the

taste of the wearer.

belt,

tack on two braid

Use two hooks

loops by which to hang up the skirt.

and eyes to close the waistband and add two large hooks

to

correspond with two large eyes placed on the

bodice at the waist-line to join the two.

THE KILT SKIRT

The

made with

It is

The The if

kilt skirt is

but a variety of

a foundation as

its

the gored skirt.

same proportions prevail as are mentioned for

it.

kilted or pleated portion, is not difficult to adjust

two simple rules are

are

is

the draped skirt.

first,

strictly followed.

These rules

the outer edge of each pleat must be folded

entire length along the straight thread of

tlie

cloth

;

second, each pleat must be laid to hang in a straight line

from the waist

to the

bottom

of the skirt.

many women would declare this to be impossible but it is not. The easiest way to accomplish these results is to make the foundation skirt as At

first

glance

I/OJy

42

MAKE DRESS

TO

directed in the preceeding pages.

SKIRTS

Finish

it

complete

with an upper facing of the dress material and the usual braid

under-facing,

Then put

on

it

Prepare the straight breadths to be

the skirt stand. kilted

and waistband.

by sewing and pressing the seams, joining the

breadths and finishing the lower edge with a hem,

machine or blind

Enough breadths muSt be

stitched.

provided to make the portion to be pleated three times

wide as the bottom

as

hem

divide the breadths at the

skirt

each

five

into

spaces of about

the

goods the length of the

inches apart.

This crease will be the

inches and crease

five

Then

the foundation skirt.

of

These creases may be basted

outside fold of the pleat.

with a thread their entire length.

Pin

all

the pleats into position round the bottom of

the foundation skirt and

draw the creased edge

up

it is

to the waist-line, so

in straight line

of

each

and the

extra width will arrange itself into an easy graceful pleat

underneath. skirt baste

drapery.

When

been done

all

around the

the pleats securely and remove

the kilted

Press

it

this has

on the under side.

medium width and

Then take tape

of

tack one length to the under crease

of the pleats about nine inches

below the waist-line

and another about eighteen inches above the bottom.

The pressing and tapes tion it

it

permanently.

will hold the pleats in

When

it

posi-

has been done, again put

on the skirt stand over the foundation skirt and

on to the Tf

fell

latter, at the waist-line.

any ornamentation of stitching, braid or embroid-

HOW ery

is

TO

given the

MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

skirt,

it

43

must be done before the

pleats are laid.

For some

kilt skirts the

be made

but they can not

foundation to

wear

An

look so well even in the beginning. braid tacked on portion, so

hem

flat to

skirt is

omitted

satisfactorily or to

the under-side

ordinary skirt the

of

pleated

edge extends only just below the

that its

will protect the

edge of that hem.

TRAINED SKIRTS

A

pattern must

an

be provided

made and when

to be

art in itself.

It

it

when

been

has

a

trained skirt

is

making

is

cut, the

must be lined with

a

material to

correspond with the fabric employed for the trained

That

skirt.

is

with silk of a contrasting or harmon-

Nothing but the neatest

izing color.

finish of

the

under-side of a trained skirt will be satisfactory, as is liable to

For

become

trains

made

no extra stiffening crinoline

visible at any of is

may be used

requisite body.

heav}' silk

or

required, but

woolen materials, for soft silks, soft

as an interlining to give

However,

it

it

the

should be used with the

greatest discrimination, as the soft train taste

it

moment.

and an undesirable stringiness

is

is

all

in the best

we wish

to

avoid.

Tapes must be adjusted on the under-side front

to

draw the

and sides back into their proper places, as well as

to hold the fulness of tlie

tation on

page 36 shows

back

together.

this finish.

Our

illus-

HO IV TO MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

44

THE BALAYEUSE

The

balayeiise is a flounce

skirt, instead of itself, or to

a

above

sewed under the edge It

it.

band which

of the

can be sewed to the skirt

is

then sewed to the

A

little

white

time ago the

halayeiise

worn

versally

skirt.

was uniindoors,

but of late this has been

superseded by the flounce of taffeta or any soft

silk,

cut

on

the

and

straight or the cross,

to the

hem.

Dressmakers should learn

balayeusc well, as

it is

on

or gathered

pleated

TO MAKE THE BALAYEUSE

how

to set a

never entirely put aside, and has

lengthened periods of great popularity.

REEDS Extenders, or bustles pleasure. flat in

come and go

the back below the waist-line and

ment for them to always use one skirt

Fashion's

at

There are ladies, however, who it is

are

very

an improve-

reed or steel in

about ten inches below the waist-line.

A

the

casing

must then be run as indicated by A, B, (See illustration

page

30, )

through which the reed

ends on either side a

is

passed. At

its

tape must be fastened and when

tied the reed is distended

and the back drawn together.

Trained skirts seldom require this reed.

There are a few most important points

it

seems well

HOW more

to recall in the I

MAKE DRESS SKIRTS

briefly, in

order to

fix

45

them more firmly

mind. that

St,

TO

you should pin or tack together the breadths

of the skirt, at the top, before

you begin, that you may

not chance to put in more gores on one side than the other

there are gores), or find that the back-breadth

(if

comes

to

one

side.

you should, while thus arranging the breadths,

2d, that

look very carefully that no one out,

there are two sides

if

tern upside

;

turned wrong

is

or, if

ide

down,

3d, that, as the

uppermost edge takes up the most,

work

over your finger, and as the cut edge

as your

stretches

top

lies

more than the selvage, you should, pin from

bottom, before you

to

begin

to

breadth on which you are employed.

way

sure

4th,

run

go

s

figured, with the pat-

of

that

at the off at

quence.

have

to

them, the

join

This

is

the only

avoiding puckering.

you should, as often as possible, begin your top, that,

if

there

the bottom, where

You can do

is it

any is of

over,

left

the least

this in every case

but

may

it

conse-

when you

join a cut edge and a selvage, and then you

must begin

at the

bottom, in order to have the selvage

uppermost. 5th,

that

you must remem.ber that gored

skirts

hang

lower at the bottom of the gores than either before or behind, and that the be, therefore, laid skirt.

first

turning in of the

rather deeper at

the

hem should

sides

of

the

MO IV TO MAKE

46

6th, that

you should make your fastenings so good

that the dress

This

is

D^E.^S SKIRTS

may wear

out before they give way.

particularly important with regard to the pocket-

holes and the placket opening, which should be well

secured by stitching, or a bar at the turn. trying to a lady to find her skirt first

time she slips her gown

slit

It is

down behind,

over her head, or

very the

her

pocket-hole give wa}' before she has put her hand into it

half a

dozen times.

CHAPTER

HOW

TO MAKE A BASQUE

AN ORDINARY BASQUE ING

— BASTING

THF,

PATTERN

THE LINING

TING THE BASQUE STITCHING SEAMS

IV

FIRST STEP IN MAK-

FITTING

THE LINING — FIT-

CUTTING OUT STRIPES

AND PLAIDS

— FINISHING SEAMS — PRESSING SEAMS

FINISHING CLOSING EDGES.

AN ORDINARY BASQUE

The

best advice to

making

is

to practice

so difficult to

fit.

The proper

offered a beginner in dress-

on round waists.

Thej' are not

The proper adjustment

seams extending only ing.

be

of darts

cutting and fitting of

its collar

sleeves need not drive her to desperation. in this to

instance time and space will

them alone

and

to the waist-line, is not perplex-

as the hints

and

However,

not be devoted

on basques properly include

round waists.

THE PATTERN

Few

ladies have the time

good system

of dress

or

inclination

to learn a

cutting, consequently they

depend usually upon patterns 47

of greater or

must

less excel-

HO]V TO MAKE A BASQUE

48

A

ence.

very good pattern ma}' be secured by going to a

dressmaker and having a basque

first-class

upon

a perfect

This may cost

fit.

you may cut from

it

will cost only a little care.

Again there are plenty will cut

and

fit

cut, insisting

$5, but the pattern

of teachers

of

systems who

which will ever

a lining

after

serve

However, there are many sewers who

as a pattern.

can not afford to pursue this course and for them there are

These are cut

the tissue paper patterns.

women

perfect forms and but few

same

difficulty

possess them.

on which

is

traced the entire waist and

it

cut out and basted together and alterations If

the latter are numerous,

when

obtained, cut a pattern from a

new

it

The

The

a perfect

for

future

3'ard,

can soon be

made fit

in

it.

has been

use and cut

lining.

THE FIRST STEP

lining

fit

appears when marked waist linings are

These linings may be purchased by the

used.

to

first

step in

making

smooth on the

An economical

cutter

a

basque

On

table.

will lay

before cutting one piece.

MAKING

IN

is to

lay out the

this lay the pattern.

out the entire pattern

In laying on the pattern the

grain of the cloth must be carefully considered. perfect

greatly pattern.

fit

of

the

basque,

sleeve,

upon the weave being Never attempt

pattern into spaces to

fit

to

or collar

The

depends

just as indicated by the

economize by twisting the

the piece of lining.

How

TO

MAKE A BASQUE

HOW TO LAY ON

A BASQUE PATTERN

49

HOW

50

The preceding

TO

MAKE A BASQUE manner

illustration gives the best

of

laying a basque pattern on the cloth, forty inches wide.

Pin each piece securely in position as soon as they are all

Then with

arranged.

with

the sharp shears cut them out

Mark with

smooth edges.

perfectl}'

a pencil

any

perforations or notches in the pattern.

When

this

lining has been cut

carefully baste the pieces

is to

rial of

out, the

next step

together, as the mate-

the dress proper should not be cut until the lining

has been carefully and perfectly

fitted.

BASTING THE LINING

Basting

is

the foundation of good dressmaking.

importance can not be too highly appreciated. ably only one dressmaker in properly.

Run

The

first

rule

is,

ten can

Its

Prob-

baste a basque

do not be afraid of stitches.

a basting thread along the waist-line of each piece,

first.

the waist-line.

This will prevent the the basque from

being lop-sided.

Begin

— of — always begin to baste at

In joining the different parts of the basque

which there are generally eight

First join the sidebody to the back.

at the waist-line

from the waist up.

and sew down and again sew

Be very

sidebody not to stretch

its

careful

edges.

in

handling the

Join the under-arm

gore to the front by beginning again at the waist-line

and basting

first

down and then

up.

body and under-arm gore, proceeding

Join the sidein the

same man-

ner.

The

curves of the darts in the front of a basque in

HOW

MAKE A BASQUE

TO

themselves show the

when you have

artist, therefore,

pattern 3'ou will use at indicating the darts.

all,

If it

adhere is

51 a

closel}' to the lines

make

necessary to

alter-

fit make them in some seam, The darts should be joined at and basted down and then up as are the

ations to secure a perfect

never change the darts.

the waist-line

seams. Join the backs together close the shoulder seams. tight

enough

stand

to

lining does not

in the

same manner and then

Fasten

fitting.

seem entirely

all

basting threads

Before fitting

if

the

firm run a basting thread

along the edges of the neck and armseyes. FITTING THE LINING

Now

you are ready

upon the manner

for the

fitting.

of underclothes worn.

Much depends Some women

wear such shocking underwear, misfitted corsets and

many knots and bunches of gathers, no one could make the modern dress fit over them. Well fitted cor-

so

sets, a

smooth vest or corset-cover

in a perfect

will greatly assist

fit.

Put on the basted basque with the edges

of the

seams

outside, pinning the fronts together, not over each other.

The novice She

will

in

fitting

must not grow wearied

probably have to put on and take

ment eight

off

easily.

the gar-

or ten times.

There are several sacred seams alterations should

never be

of a

made.

basque in which First

the

darts

should never be touched and second the seams joining

HOJV TO MAKE A BASQUE

52

These

the sidebodies to the back.

breadth

is fatal

to the gracefulness of the basque.

Unless the form

made

conform

to

When if

possible.

ers, it

is

If

fitted is

unusually abnor-

of the fronts

may

also be

to the figure's outlines.

the basque

work them out

be

to

The curve

shoulder seams.

Some

can be made in the under-arm and

all alterations

mal,

hair's

same regarding the middle-back

dressm.akers hold the

seam.

good pattern

a

in

change them a

are given perfect curves and to

is

pinned on,

into the shoulder

if

there are wrinkles,

and under-arm seams

the back wrinkles between the should-

Loosen the shoulder seams and

too long.

take up the length there.

If it

wrinkles at the waist

seam and

loosen part of the under-arm

let

them escape

Wrinkles also come from an insufficiency

there.

notches.

Have plenty along

of

the sides of the seams at

the waist-line and cut them as deep as possible with-

out cutting the threads of the stitching.

When

the figure fitted

shouldered, which of the

is

slightly stooped or round

often occurs, the curves at the top

back pieces must be omitted and the neck there

be cut straight across to prevent the collar drawing out from the neck. fronts around the

dom

In such

arm must

case the curve of the

be altered to allow a free-

for the arm.

In fitting the lining allow

it

to

inch too long at the waist-line. a

pleat while

it

alone

is

being

be at least one-half

This may be laid in fitted

but

must be

arranged in fine gathers along the seams when the

lin-

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE ing

on the dress

is laid

in the

fabric, as is

T

space between

53

shown by

and B, shown

fine lines

in the illustra-

tion on page 54.

be made with the utmost care.

Alterations should

Very often the shape and style are ruined

Remember

them.

an inch

frequently sufficient whereas

is

made new

making

medium

between perfectness and utter

if

a half inch is

Patience must be

troubles are produced.

used to strike that happy lies

in

that in taking in a seam, an-eighth of

correction that

of

ruin.

FITTING THE BASQUE

When

the lining has

edges of one-half of

Then

rip

been

fitted,

trim

off

even

all

before taking out the bastings.

the entire basque apart and cut the second

exactly correspond with

half to half.

it,

It is

exceedingly risky to

the fit

first

or

trimmed

and trim either side

independently of the other.

There are very few forms but require some padding Perhaps

into perfect shape. bust,

onl}' a little

over the

perhaps a hoUowness under the arms or over the

collarbones must be to give a

on the is

it is

laid

smooth

lining,

filled in.

Wherever

it is

required

surface, baste cotton-batting into place

with

its

edges uneven, before the lining

on the outside dress material.

Afterward lay each piece of the lining on the outside with the cotton-batting between.

economical to lay

all

It will

be found

the lining pieces on before bast-

ting or cutting any one portion.

In laying the lining

on the outside material attention must be given to the

HOW

54

grain of the

weave

TO

MAKE

A BASQUE

The threads

cloth.

lengthwise

the

of

one should correspond exactly with those

of

the other.

If this is

not done the

bodice

is

of

likely to

twist to one side or the other.

When

this has

been done, run a thread basting them

together at the waist, the line marked L. in the tration.

Then ran

a line of

basting from

illus-

the top of

each front dart straight to the lower edge of the basque,

holding in the extra length of the lining in

There are ric

SHOWING GATHERS IN LINING and dress

tricks in basting the lining

together peculiar to different workers,

ever, in basting tailor-fashion is

the simplest.

and B. wearing.

full

on the

all

agree,

table,

fab-

how-

because

it

Stitch the dress goods well and baste

through the dotted over but not

fine gathers.

lines,

keeping the lining easy

any place except between the lines

This easy allowance provides

all

T

for the strain in

no IV TO MAKE A BASQUE To

baste the front, run

55

the basting

first

the middle of the darts, then along the lines

From

the line

B

to the

bottom

lining straight but do not

remainder

making the

ric

It

it.

and long on the

stitch short

Be

lining.

In basting the

more

of this fulness

space between

T

not to pleat

B

it is

made

partially bias

down.

as gathers

L

than below

little

The

it.

should be about three inches.

The same rules should prevail for the other The material for the sidebodies should not be as

up the

it

usual to have a

It is

above the line

and

to the

lines

on the dress fab-

must be equally divided and taken up more

or shirring than as pleats.

and B.

careful in taking

T and B

fulness between the lines

T

of the basque, pin the

stretch

of the fronts follow the dotted

hair's width,

down

line

and

if

portions.

stretched

pulled, will wrinkle

when

up.

When

the lining pieces have been basted onto

all

the outside, carefully cut them

out of the cloth with

even edges.

That done,

baste, using No. 60 cotton.

and baste on the table

— never

women, and among

number

to

that

Baste close

your

lap.

Many

are those

who

profess

in

understand the business, baste over their fingers.

The

result is ruinous, for that

makes the upper piece

shorter than the under and the garment sided.

To

repeat former advice, don't

becomes lopsew anything

over your finger. In joining the six gores of the basque together, ber to begin

all

the basting at

remem-

the waist-line and

sew

HOW

56

down

TO

and then return

to the bottom,

and baste

MAKE A BASQUE

all

seams

made

In a basque properly

from being lop-sided. basting of

to the waist-line

This will prevent the garment

to the top.

the

run just inside or just out-

will

This avoids the possibility

side the line of stitching.

of catching the basting thread in the stitching and of

breaking the thread used in stitching when the bastings are

drawn

Start

out.

with the front-gore, pin

the darts together at the waist-line and baste

the bottom

;

then, beginning at the top, baste

down down

to to

the waist-line.

Join the under-arm to the front by pinning the waisttogether

lines

;

begin

at this

basting threads, sewing

down

place and baste first.

in

the

Then commence

again at the waist-line and sew up, stretching the under-

arm a

trifle at

the waist.

Join the sidebody to the back, beginning at the waistline,

sewing down, and again from the waist up.

Be

very careful in handling these gores not to stretch che edges.

Next join the sidebody and under-arm by pinning the waist-lines together, keeping the edges even

basting the traced line, sewing

and

down and then from

the waist up.

Fasten the basting stitches strong enough

to hold for a

fitting.

Try the basque on and

if

and there should be none fitted,

you are ready

no alteration if

the

lining

to stitch the seams.

is is

necessary

properly

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE

57

CUTTING OUT PLAIDS AND STRIPES

When rial it

cutting a bodice from striped or plaid mate-

requires a great nicety of adjustment to get the

different parts to

fit

are several rules

neatly and properly together. There

which must be followed exactly or

the bodice will be absolutely unpresentable. stripes or

plaids

First the

must exactly correspond on either

side of the middle-back

seam and on

either side of the

front closing.

M^

m m

TO CUT PLAID GOODS

They may be

cut on the bias of the goods or

usual straight up and

come together

down manner, but where they must exactly match. To do and attention. The lining must

their lines

this only requires care

in the

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE

58

be

exactly

upon ric

and

fitted

Then

it.

lines

correspond with

when they

piece,

upon the

lay each piece of lining

and see that the

exactly

seams distinctly marked

the

of

fab-

one piece of the back

the

lines

opposite

the

of

are laid with their right sides

upon

each other.

Our illustration indicates as nearly as we can the manner of laying one-half the lining pieces on a plaid material. The other half must correspond. In the fitting the lining the exact waist-line should

be indicated by a creased line in each portion.

In lay-

ing the portions on the cloth one line of the plaid

followed by this crease. line just

below

A

In this instance

B.

First lay the back lining on the fabric with line just

Then

A B

below

A

Baste

B.

lay the sidebody with

its

it

place

also, taking care that the top of the

Perhaps will

in

not

E

its

waist

around.

all

creased line just below

responds with the part of the reaches lines

is

the white

it is

back's

armseye cor-

armseye, which

F.

at first the curves of the

exactly correspond

but

back and side-back the

may be

fabric

turned and even slightly twisted on to the lining until they

fit

When

together exactly.

this has

been carefully

adjusted, the under-arm piece of the lining

the fabric with line

A

B.

position for

its

The it

is

laid

on

creased waist-line also just below

line

C

D

must also come

in

the

same

as that line does for the sidebod}-.

Place the front on

the

fabric so

the

cross

stripes

HOW

MAKE A BASQUE

TO

59

correspond with those of the under-arm piece

The

waist and armseye lines.

must also be taken It

down

stripe

at the

the

front

into consideration.

looks best of course, to have this stripe curve par-

with the front closing line but with

allel

However,

this is impossible.

ladies

for

development the stripe may be curved without injuring the

By

full

of

busts

moderate

sufficiently

of the bodice.

fit

following these directions the plaid will match

exactly excepting at the darts, under-arm and shoulder

seams. In cutting a bodice from striped material the work is

less

have the lines match the sidebodies

fit

in

the middle-back

The

to

seam and

back seam with the

into the curved

exactly.

stripes hitting

must be taken

great care

Still

difficult.

stripes

down

the front

closing should be curved as suggested above, in every

possible instance. twisting effect will It is

best where

down between

disappear

all

it is

same

in

the dart seams.

possible, to have a stripe to

the darts.

one side of the stripe nearly the

properly fitted the

If the .lining is

is

It

looks better than

shown.

By keeping

size, the bias effect often

if

run only

the darts

seen in the

second dart back will be overcome. STITCHING SEAMS

The seams will

basque must be stitched

of the

lutely straight lines

;

in

abso-

wavering, irregular machine work

ruin the otherwise perfect

fit.

In stitching the

curved seams joining the side-back and back portions,

HOW

6o

TO

MAKE A BASQUE

always nave the back underneath and the side-back next the "presser-foot,

up

at

back

and

"

is

it

well to hold the piece well

each end of the "presser-foot," otherwise the sideis

likely to pucker in the sewing.

When

stitching

the shoulder seams, have the front above and the back

beneath

as, if

there

is

any difference, the front should

be stretched on to the back.

Leave the shoulder and under-arm seams last to

until

the

The front closing should be finished The garment may require a slight loosening or

be stitched.

before.

tightening at these seams before the collar and sleeves are

added

;

it is

much

easier to

before the}' are machine tions leave

sewed.

make such changes Beside such altera-

marks which can not always be removed,

especially from silken fabrics.

FINISHING SEAMS

Finishing the seams of a basque

and

busy

a matter of time

Although the modern dressmaker

taste.

enough

is

embellish

to

woman

is

good

them with bright ribbons, the

will find that turning in

and running the

edges will make quite as neat a seam, wear just as well, take less time and answer every purpose. lial

used

ravel, the

is cloth,

silk or

If

the mate-

any other fabric that will not

edges can be notched or pinked, a finish or

wash

popular with

tailors.

French

used for most seams.

fell

is

made by placing

the

and stitching them

thin

In

wrong

in a

edges have been pared

This finish

the is

sides of the parts together

narrow seam. oft

fabrics

Then when

even, turn the

the

parts at the

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE

6i

seam, so that the right sides are together and make

This leaves

another seam. in

the raw edges turned

all

and firmly sewed.

Another way

such fabrics

of finishing

ordinary quarter-inch seam, but at

the seam

made, pare it down

is

strip over

the strip and

process

is

fell it

When

closely, turn the

binding

down along

of partly

;

cessful

of the

In gar-

the seaming.

embroidered fabrics this binding

used along the seamed embroidered edges,

made along the almost impossible to make

even where a French edges

the

the same time sew

and also turn under the loose edge of

it,

ments made

make

goods.

narrow bias binding-strip

in a

to

is

because

French

it is

fell

fell

is

plain a suc-

along an embroidered edge.

PRESSING SEAMS After the basque it

is

stitched and the seams finished,

must be pressed, not a

little,

nor in spots, nor with

a cold iron, but all over, with strength and with irons as hot as can

be used without burning.

adepts in the use of the

er's

models.

If

you follow

fabric is

woolen) will lay

and press until the cloth

home dressmak-

their example,

a press cloth of clean muslin, it

is

and the

needle

goose, the

shears and should be regarded as the

Tailors are

dampen

it,

you (if

will take

the dress

along each seam in turn perfectly dry.

Afterward

press the bare seam, running the iron under the edge to

prevent outlines on the outside.

The shoulder and

dart seams are also treated in this

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE

62

manner, the greatest care being taken to retain their desirable curves.

When

be tried on and should smooth. only to

all is

fit

done the basque should

without a wrinkle, absolutely

The bones which are added later make permanent that smoothness.

are used

FINISHING CLOSING EDGES

The

closing edges of a basque are finished either for

buttons or hooks and eyes

or

In

lacing.

for

each

instance a special finish must be used.

When

the closing of the edges

buttons, the left side must have

by a deep

facing.

than the size

be

of

its

is to

be effected by

curved edge finished

This should be a quarter-inch wider the button-holes, and

the basque edge.

The

basted over evenly and side.

The

should not

it

cut bias but show the same grain

cloth

of

as

facing should be turned and

hemmed down on

right closing edge should

the wrong

be cut an inch

wider so as to extend under the button-holes when the

basque

is

closed.

A

tape stay should be stitched on

the under side along the line for the buttons.

When

hooks and eyes are employed for closing, both

edges should be finished as described above for the left side,

so

only the hooks and eyes should be sewed on

as to just touch the outer edges

and a neat facing

then sewed on over them, to finish.

Thousands

of

nicely drafted

because the fronts are uneven.

basques are spoiled

They

will

measure the

same, but the hooks and eyes not being opposite, the

HOW

TO

MAKE A BASQUE

collar is

made crooked,

waist

unbalanced.

is

that not one erl}^

and not one

the dress gaps and the whole

It is

woman

not an exaggeration to say

in fifty

can button a dress prop-

in twenty can sew hooks and

directly opposite each other. it is

There

simply a matter of

at regular intervals

e3'es

no trick about

mark

with an inch measure.

pinned down so that

not be inaccurate.

is

correct measurement.

piece of chalk or a colored pencil and

is

63

it,

Use a

off

each side

If

the waist

will not slip, the spacing can-

it

These are some

of the little points

in the finishing of a dress that are so

perplexing and

on which so much of the style depends.

An

extra

facing of the cloth of the basque must be added.

It

is

attached to the right side and should be wide enough

to

extend well under the line of closing.

When for

a cord lacing

hooks and

instead.

e3^es,

The same

is

used the edges are finished as

except that eyelets are worked care

eyelets even and opposite.

must be taken

The

to

have the

extra facing should be

attached on the right side and extend under the lacing.

CHAPTER V HOW TO MAKE A BASQUE (Continued)

BONING A BASQUE ISHING EDGES WEIGHTS

SCALE FOR PLACING THE BONES

TO

GARMENT

FINISH A TAILOR

FIN-

LEAD

BONING A BASQUE

The boning

of a bodice is a particular

tedious one as well.

Some good

Few

rules followed,

made, and when the work

matter and a

dresses are properly boned.

remedy is

all

mistakes usually

properly done the bones

or stays add a great deal to the beautj^ of any bodice.

They

are generally added before the collar and alwa3's

before the sleeves are attached.

A bodice is likely to

be

twisted and handled a good deal in inserting the stays

and that

is

the best reason

why

the work

should

be

done as soon as the seams are otherwise finished and before

facings, collar or sleeves are added.

Covered steels and whalebones stays in vogue.

There

is

in

casings are the

a great deal of difference

the varieties of each to be purchased.

The

be found the cheapest in the end and

is

64

it

in

best will

pretty gen-

IfOJF TO erally

MAKE A BASQUE

65

conceded that the old-fashioned whalebone can

not be excelled for either wear or grace.

whalebones they should be soaked

water for a

This process makes them pliable

couple of hours.

They

and easily cut and pierced.

and this can then be readily done. will reveal

Before using

in hot

also

need shaping

A moment's thought

the presence of curves described by the It will also

lines of the figure.

the absurdity

reveal

bones or steels in a garment intend-

of putting straight

ed to follow these exquisitely curving

lines.

To be

sure, being flexible, they will to a certain extent shape

themselves

the figure, but not accurately.

to

must be shaped beforehand.

garment and the garment must be

are a part of the

must make the

given the

fit

woman

shapely or shapeless.

is

;

it

the basque before

in

They

In other words, the stays

it

is

figure

whether

You should

the

see the

fit

put on.

Consequently, when the whalebone has been soaked

and cut the right length, seam.

iron, to follow the

run on bias lines,

it

it is

must be curved with a hot For some seams when they

not always possible to get the nice

curve with wide bones and they must be whittled down.

This should not be done with a knife or shears, they are likely to split the

bone which

if

good

is

very fibrous

;

but a piece of ordinary glass should be used and with its

sharp edges the bone can be neatly shaved into

shape very rapidly.

There should also be bored or

punched holes

bone

5

in the

in three or four

places to

HOW

66

TO

sew through, those

at

MAKE A BASQUE each

end being most import-

ant.

When

used they always come covered and

steels are

are easily bent into the proper curves.

When

bones or bare steels are used,

to stitch along each

must be

seam casings

Whatever

inserted.

fulled

purchased

for

in

it

necessary

is

which they can be

used for these casings they

is

on almost

Galloons

in gathers.

may be

these casings, which answer every pur-

pose, and are neat in

appearance

;

however,

hemmed

muslin or silk like the lining used, makes very good Full them on by hand, stitching them close

casings.

on each side over the seam.

The

casings full and the

bones tight will straighten the seams defy wrinkles at the waist.

any bodice and

of

In sewing bias strips of

methods may be

lining to the seams for casings several

employed, one or two of the best being here given. the strips just wide enough so that-

sewed on they

will

One plan make the

turn under the edges

it

is

to

tightly hold

to follow the

seam

sides of the casings to catch-stitch

them

and creased, run it

;

far

enough

to

then

latter

fell

may

easily be

or neatly run

the

position, or, with fancy silk,

in place.

The

latter

method produces

Or, after the casing has been folded

a very neat effect.

turn

are

the bones or stays.

casing of the desired width, and then crease

through the center so that the

made

when they

Cut

it

along the crease at one side, and

over the seam

side, taking care to

and

fell it

down on

•

the other

keep the center over the seam.

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE Where

a casing

is

67

bias there will be no necessity for

putting

it

on very

galloon

is

used because

full,

as in the straight casings it

seam and

will give with the

for that reason will neither

bind nor draw

when

it.

SCALE FOR PLACING BONES

Here

is

a

The one up

scale for

the back

correct

the

seam

side seams let the bone run

is

placing of bones.

not necessarj*.

up four and

a half

above the waist-line and two inches below

;

In

the

inches

the bones

under the arm must not come nearer than two inches of In the darts have the bone end one inch

the sleeve.

below the casing.

Run

basque and tack

by sewing through

it

the bone to the bottom of the at five different

Of

places above the waist-line and two places below.

these seven sewings have two one-half an inch on either side of the belt. At the top of the casings tack the bone in

an inch or so below, so as

place, half

breaking or pushing through. will be it is

no difhculty

this

in

to

prevent

it

If properly soaked there

sewing though the bone, and

sewing that will support the figure and sus-

tain the shape of the bodice. If

Run

hooks and eyes are used, bone both front closings. a

stitching

along the edges the

bone and insert the bone between the it

as high

bottom

as

the darts and extending

width of the linings,

down

having to

the

oi the facing.

As before

stated,

if

properl}^ cut

abundantly and tightly boned.

any waist will

fit

if

The bone must be

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE

68

whole

afford

to

must

the pliability desired and

be

securely fastened by strong sewing.

There is a use to which steel stays are rarely put, but one which deserves general adoption or evening waists having no front and, also those

enough follow the

seam

low-necked

at the center

of the

whose upper edges do not closely of the wearer

figure

The waist

of the top.

in finishing

is

except that no bones or

boned

the center

at

manner,

in the usual

are added to the front

sta3's

darts, as their addition is liable to

produce a bulging

where the other stays

The waist between new

effect

these darts

arrangement of

steel stays.

extend from the point to

a

darts,

little

join.

held smoothly to the figure by this

is

Two

stays, long

enough

to

lower edge of the front

at the

more than half-way

to the

tops of the

have their adjacent edges fastened together

at

the point, and are spread so that they will extend to the dart and are felled to position on the lining after the latter

is

well stretched

under them.

Two

other

stays are joined to the upper ends of the lower stays

and are felled

to the waist-lining

and reach the top

of

the waist about an inch from the center at each side,

where they are firmly secured

to

a

short stay extend-

ing along the top of the waist over the space between

the front darts.

The top

of

the waist

is

removed, and an extra facing

and firm

finish.

It will

is

added

to

down may be

turned

over this short stay, from which the covering

give a neat

be at once understood that a

waist thus fortified will present a close, smooth effect

HOW and of

at the

TO

MAKE A BASQUE

same time secure

mind which comes with

waist will

for the

tlie

69

wearer that peace

consciousness that her

follow the outlines of her figure as closely

when she is seated as when she is standing. Whalebone may be used for the diamond-shaped arrangement of the stays in at the

place of steel, but for the

top a steel stay

is

cross-piece

decidedly preferable, though

whalebone will serve the purpose fairly well after being

MODE OF FASTENING

Our

if

bent

heated in water.

illustation

whalebones. ence for stays.

IN A

WHALEBONE

shows two modes

The fan-shaped mode

A

hole

is

bored

is

a

in

of

bone with a strong bodkin, previously

fastening

in

used in preferpiece of whaleto-

slipping

it

in

and the stitches are put in so as to form a fan both on

wrong

the right and on the

The cotton

side.

or silk

used must be thick and of excellent quality.

The other mode

is

also

not bored, and the stitches take

on the right side as

will insure their

more, for they must be as long sitches being

The whalebone is just as much material

used.

all

little

firmness, but no

seen as possible, the

on the wrong

side.

HOW

70

TO

MAKE

A BASQUE

FINISHING EDGES

The lower edge a silk

basque should always be given

of a

facing, cut bias.

provide

silk,

It is

absolutely necessary to

no matter what the material of the gar-

ment, for facing the bottom of a basque and collar.

Any

to line its

other goods will produce a clumsy finish.

INSIDE OF A FINISHED BASQUE

When all seams have been sewed,

pressed and finished

and the closing edges also completed, the lower edges of the basque,

if it is

a plain one, should be turned

HOW

TO MAKE A BASQUE

over and neatly basted. is to

If a

be given this edge, as

is

71

simple machine stitching often found desirable, that

should be done and then attach the facing by hand.

Cut the silken the bias and hem it

it

on the bottom holding

Gather in the fulness of

easy.

than pleat

it

its

lower edge rather

The sewing should be firm may break it.

down.

rather

than loose as the strain otherwise

But the facing

of the

bottom varies in depth with

the length of the basque's skirt.

deeper round

In

basques the facing should be cut wide enough to reach the belt, that

is five

basque, which

is

all

tails, calls for

in

habit front

a special facing, nar-

Cut

around, with the tails faced to the waist.

the lining on the bias and don't pleat If

The

short on the hips, pointed

and finished with

row

inches wide perhaps.

hold

5^ou

it

properly

edge of the basque.

it

will

in any place.

it

adjust itself

the

to

Silk also for these while not

durable as farmer's satin,

is

preferable on account of

as its

softness.

The

sleeves and collar of a basque are treated of

length in the next chapter, so

we

will

only add

at

here

that the neck and armseye edges should always be fin-

ished by a narrow bias facing or a

ribbon binding

as

preferred.

TO FINISH A TAILOR GARMENT It is

when we come

tailoring

rises

to

to the finishing of basques that

such pre-eminence over

dressmaking methods.

Every means

is

ordinary

followed to

MAKE A BASQUE

TO

JIOIV

72

overcome wrinkles, which

appear in the most per-

will

fectly fitted dressmaker's garments.

When

the seams have been stitched, before touch-

ing the lining, which

tacked to each piece well away

is

from the seams, there

is

The

a great deal to be done.

seams must be notched where they describe an inward

seam must be ironed open and

flat.

They must be pressed very smooth and notched

well

curve, for each

the seam until they will

into

cloth

is

perfectly

la}^

flat.

As

very stubborn, a very hot and heavy iron must

be banged on the cloth, not merely passed over

may be smeared

facilitate flattening, the cloth

it.

To

before

ironing with a piece of dry soap, on the parts where the notched edges of the seams fold back on the inside of

the

With

bodice.

is not sufficient

soap

of flour

thick very stubborn

and then

tailors

cloth

the

use thin paste

and water, which they lightly apply with a small

brush in minute quantities as described for the soap.

With

You

will

ironing the seams

but

the paste the seam flattens perfectl}-.

probably crease the lining in as each

seam

is

pressed, iron afterward the two pieces

of lining into place smoothly over each other.

the bodice

is

ironed and boned, turn in the edge of the

upper portions

of

lining, tack

on the under part, and to

sew the lining

cloth in any way. iron

them

When

flat,

each neatly and easily

hem them

only,

and not

When

all

the

together, taking care to

interfere with the

hems

are complete

putting a cloth over each seam, so that

the iron does not

make

the lining shiny and unsightly.

HO IV TO MAKE A BASQUE Before boning and hemming your seams

73

it

would be

Our

advisable to finish the fronts of the basqiie.

tions are for a double-breasted corsage, with a

buttons up each side, because

hooks down the centre

It

down

center

the

plastron to render the

make

as

it

smooth and

perfectly.

the

left.

finish.

There

stiff

Hence

as a board.

kept

is

a

or

and the space between

in

it

to-

must

by the

place

buttons on the right, and the button holes on the

and

is

double-breast

must be lined with packing

The packing

of

and then

front,

the

of

perfect,

fit

the two rows of buttons

fit

the

over on

buttons

the right front

seam

more

requires

it

of

direc-

row

left,

two portions are tacked firmly down the center

its

over the seam of the

Down

line

the

lined with packing, from

one

plastron.

this

hooks are used.

The basque must be

inch of the lower edge to an inch above the waist-line. It will

crease

have to be done is

in small

pieces because no

permissible as the packing follows and accen-

tuates the curvings of the basque, and the pieces

securely sewed together

packing tacked upon ing,

it.

along the edge of the basque and up the edge of

the plastron.

Turn

this

inside over the packing, notch-

portion where

ing the edge of the turned-in

any tendency to stitch

it

pull.

Tack

this

down with two rows

This will make the firm

must be

when the whole basque has the You must leave an inch f orturn-

and smooth.

of

it

shows

edge smoothly, and

machine

basque and plastron

stitching.

beautifully

HOW

74

Now

you have

TO

MAKE

A BASQUE

to line plastron

and basque with

silk

tack pieces of silk in place, very smoothly, and

make

a tiny round hole above

tooth

can emerge.

machine closely

each hook, so that

The edge must be

stitch

nearest

the

cut

flush

edge, on

and neatly hemmed with

silk.

to

The

its

with the

which

it

is

lining of the

plastron must be in two pieces, that of the basque at least in four, as

it

would be endless trouble

exact shape in cloth on the cross

raw but

neatl}' cut,

;

to cut the

and the edges,

must be hemmed over each

left

other.

INSIDE OF FINISHED TAILOR-MADE BASQUE

When

the cloth

is

adjusted and seamed,

the bones

must be inserted, the tapes being sewed to the inside of the seams.

Except the bone

in the

middle of the back,

MOJV TO MAKE A BASQUE all

bones cease

at the waist-line,

in tape is left free

75

and the upper end cased

from the seam for about an inch to

avoid indicating from outside the exact spot where the

The boning done, hem over your

bone ceases.

lining

and hem the lower edge over the cloth basque just above the waist-line so that the belt when sewed carefully inside

above each bone, conceals where the lining

of the corsage

and the cloth lining

The

neatly

lining

is

hemmed

of the

basque meet.

over the plastron lining.

Press the finished basque with a very hot iron, cover-

This

ing the inside with a cloth as above described. is

a delicate operation, for

if

you crease them you

will

have to replace the packing and do your work over Now sew on the buttons and make the buttonagain. holes,

which

last is not

thicknesses of

The

easy to do well through the two

cloth and packing.

sleeves are lined like the corsage, independently

of the cloth,

and when the sleeves are sewed

upper edge of the lining

seams before the

is

neatly

hemmed

dress preservers

are

put

in,

the

over the

The

in.

parements are simulated by rows of stitching they button up at the elbow seams, and are stitched, lined ;

with packing

first,

and then with hemmed-over

The

exactly like the plastron.

The packing and lining Then the to the neck.

are

drawn over the seam, and of the corsage.

is

cloth,

similarly made.

seamed inside the corsage

cloth is

collar

of

the collar

hemmed

itself

is

to the silk lining

MAKE A BASQUE

JIOIV TO

76

CLOSING WORDS It is

customary with French modists, who are so very

successful in

making

silks

and light woolen

fabrics, to

use two wide steels of nine or ten inches to hold the front and back of a basque down.

These steels which come

covered with soft white kid, are incased in ribbon and felled in the dress

along the two seams.

Although not

very flexible they are wrinkle-proof and hold the waist

down

as nothing else will.

They were introduced

after

the lead weights were retired and they are characteristic of

the French system modistes.

Every basque should be provided with an inside belt secured to every

seam (but not

to the front darts).

This holds the garment in place on the figure, prevents

drawing up

the back and takes the strain

in

This belt

front portions. belt ribbon,

The best

the yard. belts

made

is

best

made

which ma}^ be purchased

of

of the

in

the

off

regular

any shop, by

quality has a corded edge.

Inside

lining goods and the material of the

dress stitched together are cheaper, but their clumsi-

ness can not be denied and the ribbon will be found

more economical

in the end.

to fasten in front with

They should be

two small hooks and

finished

eyes.

LEAD WEIGHTS

When

the basque

or is given

is

postillion in shape

at the

long tails of any other description

back it

is

almost absolutely necessary to weight their lower edges to

keep them

in place.

Nothing

is

more disfiguring

than to have the lower edge of a basque at the back

HOW

TO

MAKE A BASQUE

or front turned up always after sitting sta)'s

used

in

the

fronts

of

best remedy.

of different styles

in

it.

The

basques usually prevent

this there, but in the back, lead its

down

77

weights will be found

They can be purchased for a song, and sizes. They should always be

carefully covered with silk and then slipped under the

facing and securel}^ tacked so they can not get out of

place with wear.

Tabs on the sides

of

basques or

bodices of any style, should be leaded also on figures

where the hips have any tendency

to

push them up.

CHAPTER

VI

SLEEVES AND COLLARS DRESS SLEEVES MAKING A COAT SLEEVE SEWING IN A SLEEVE JACKET AND CLOAK SLEEVES STANDING COLLARS TURNED OVER COLLARS REVERS COLLARS PLAS-

—

—

TRONS DRESS SLEEVES

The proper

fitting of a sleeve is

Whether

as that of a bodice. for

a

affair

the sleeve

arm covering, or

tight, plain

ornamental

almost as intricate

matters but

little

is

is

fashioned

a voluminous,

in the

work

to

be

done. In a tight fitted coat sleeve there are takes to be avoided

To make such

if

a perfectl}^ fitted sleeve is desired.

a pair of sleeves for a dress, the lining for

each sleeve should be cut and the dress

is

several mis-

of time, patience

fitted before the fabric of

This will be found a great saving

touched.

and material just as when

at

work

upon the basque.

When

the sleeve

requires no lining

it

is

one

for

a jacket

will always be 78

or cloak and

found good policy

SLEE VES AND COLLARS to cut a sleeve in

some inexpensive material and

When

over the arm into the garment.

been made

to

fit

arm properly

the

used as a pattern by used.

it

should then be

it

be really

vi^hich to cut the cloth to

cloth

even

or

costly velvets and plushes

try

fit

this sleeve has

This course will be found truly economical.

Expensive, wide

narrow, but

equally

which are usually the mate-

used for jackets and wraps are

rials

79

too valuable to

experiments upon.

In cutting this

the

lining

greatest

must be

care

taken to lay the pattern upon the cloth with the weave or grain of the latter running correctly.

Ladies cut

out sieves with their outline edges just like the pat-

they declare and yet the sleeve does not

tern,

twists on the arm.

rious

way

The

seam

inside

will crawl over the

top of

fit.

some myste-

in

the arm, or de-

scribe a spiral curve from the elbow to the wrist. is

only because the straight

patterns given to indicate

has not been followed.

line,

how

It

This

always found in good to lay

it

on the goods

Sometimes there

is

strong

a

temptation to deviate from this rule, when you find that

by moving the pattern over just a half-inch further

to the left or

length, but

right,

it is

you can save several inches in

an economy never to do

sleeve will be ruined

so.

The

entire

nine cases out of ten, you will

f^nd.

However, these rules need only apply of a sleeve.

If it is

to

the lining

cut correctly the outside

may be

SLEE VES AND COLLARS

8o cut bias

desired and the lining will hold

if

posi-

in

it

tion.

Another error comes from taking

There

sleeve too deep.

to

Wide seams

withstand that.

sleeves

in

the elbow, however, just as waist

at

seams require

it

where they introduce curves.

The seams same manner

of

should be finished in the

sleeve

as those of the waist.

the

If

bound with ribbon, bind the sleeve seams answer

are overcast only that

will

sleeves always

when

fit

on

made wide

be

must be notched

a

of a

of course quite a strain

is,

the seams of a sleeve and they must

enough

seams

in the

well

their

and the edges loosely tacked

latter are

also

they

if

;

for the sleeves

seams are

and

open

laid

to the lining.

It is also very important that all

seams and facings

should be thoroughly and carefully pressed with a hot

A

iron.

large strong bottle

wrapped with smooth

makes an excellent ironing board

The that

is

layer

it

fit

and the hot

of

piece of cloth

iron.

of a coat sleeve for a small

not smoothly rounded

shoulder.

is

arm, or an arm

much improved by

wadding extending from the elbow

Some good dressmakers

sleeves as they find

it

Press

sleeves.

for

on the right side of a sleeve, with a

between

linen,

use

it

to

a

the

for all lined

gives a desirable firmness to the

set of the sleeve.

For

all

long close sleeves which

fit

the

below the elbow and extend to the wrist, leave either one or the

it

arm is

tight

best to

other seam open at the wrist

SLEEVES AND COLLARS two or three inches.

for

This

finish

convenient and quite ornamental often found comfortable to

It is

by

means

this

or bracelets added to the toilette

The

same time.

turn back the sleeve

when long

as a cuff,

be found

will

the

at

8i

gloves are put on

itself.

sleeve must always be faced up to a line above

this opening.

MAKING A COAT SLEEVE

When

the

trimmed all

lining to

off

Lay

been

fitted

and

tack on the wadding

out.

If

place

sleeves into

the fabric

is

used).

(if it is

the lining on the outside fabric and baste

pieces of the two

them

edges

the

correspond with any changes, rip out

Then

bastings.

has

before

all

four

cutting

striped or figured see that

the opposite upper portions correspond.

Then

cut each out accurately.

Join the edges along

the inside seams, and finish them with ribbon, or overstitching as has been decided upon.

seams

flat

with the hot iron.

of the sleeve

provided for facing the sleeve.

them (the

fit

this

press these

Afterward lay the wrist

with the right side

inches deep and to

Then

end

flat

upon the material

Cut the facing four of the sleeve.

lining and sleeve) together across the

lower edge and along each side for three inches. join the edges of the

seam

at

the

Stitch

whole

Then

outside seam terminating the

seams made by joining on the facing.

Turn over the facing and tack

it

down by hand.

When

the edges of the outside seam are finished and pressed

SLEEVES AND COLLARS

82

over the bottle, the

entire sleeve is

most simple and neat piece

may be added

desired

in

IN

It is a

Any trimming

THE SLEEVE garment

into the

must be done caretuUy

must be placed

finished.

work.

after the sleeve is turned.

SEWING

Sewing the sleeve

of

is a

The seams

too.

thing which

of

the sleeve

their positions and then extra ful-

ness can be laid in pleats or gathers according to the

While basting the sleeve

prevailing fashion.

into the

Sewing

armseye hold the sleeve toward you always. the sleeve in by hand

is

very good as a

machine

will

often disarrange the gathers or pleats.

Tailor-made dresses sleeves with

linings

turned inside. into the

on

of

made

the best style

separately and

In such cases the lining only

armseye while the

full

considerable

require

would not advise

skill

to

seams

ail is

outside fabric

seamed

is

sewed

Such sleeves

the waist by invisible stitches.

to

have their

make properly and we

a novice to attempt them.

In any case the sleeve must

first

be basted

Fasten

ing the sleeve towards you.

into

it

in,

hold-

the arms-

eye by pinning in their correct places the front and the

back

(if

there

is

machine

there

is

one) seams and arrange any fulness

over the shoulder.

Try the garment on before

stitching the sleeve into place.

JACKET AND COAT SLEEVES It is

Even

advisable to line even the heaviest cloth sleeves.

when

the

remainder

of

the

garment

is

not

SLEE VES A ND COL LARS lined, a

smooth

too highly

the

fit its

silk or silk finished lining

recommended

omission

is

for the

can not be

Aside from

sleeves.

very trying upon the patience of

The smooth

the wearer.

83

lining allows the garment to

be so easily slipped on and

Then

off.

light colored

dresses are not exposed to the dye of the cloth that soils in

The smooth

even the best woolens.

prevents straining and stretching

the

lining

seams

the

of

sleeves and shoulders.

These linings should be cut the same cloth but

as the

size

must be made and pressed separately.

should be put inside and

the

together with

They seams

respective

their

armseye seams should be covered by

felling the lining of the sleeve over

it.

At the wrist

the sleeve should be cut long enough to be turned up inside an inch and the lining that

is

also felled

down

over

raw edge. STANDING COLLARS

For an ordinary round standing a waist should be

bias silk.

In other words

ished just as

if

collar, the

neck

of

neatly bound by a narrow piece of it

should be completely

there were to be no collar added.

done and other methods

ever, this is not always

fin-

Howwill

be explained further along in the chapter.

A STANDING COLLAR

The above

illustration

for a standing collar.

shows the correct proportions

It

must be cut out

of straight

SLEE VES AND COLLARS

84

lining

cloth, that is the

may be

outside

or

foundation must

Canvas or buckram must be used or foundation lighter

first

and baste

The width

it

stiff it

Every with

will not

Cut the

inter-

fabric.

must depend upon the

and the

made

style

There

taste of the wearer.

must, in cutting, be an allowance all

Crinoline or

on the outside

firml}^

of the collar

in present fashion

an inch

the

nut give the desired firm-

standing collar should be so

with ordinary wear wrinkle or crease. lining

;

for the interlining

standing collars.

of all

materials will

stiff

A

ness.

be

cut bias or in any fashion desired.

of a quarter of

around the collar for seams or turn

in.

collar unless a very thin one should be lined

This should be cut

silk,

to

correspond in size

Turn down together the

with the interlining.

inter-

lining and outside (which have previously been basted

together)

around the depth

all

baste this fold in

place.

side the lining of silk fell

them down

collar than to

them inside

deep seam and

Then baste upon the under-

turn in

its

edges

all

around and

This makes a much neater

which process also wrinkles the can-

it is

almost impossible to press the collar

smoothness again.

into shape and

Every

a

seam the three pieces together and turn

out,

vas so badly,

:

neatly.

of

must be thoroughly pressed with

collar

iron with a cloth between.

When

this has

a hot

been done

place the middle of the collar at the middle-back waist

seam and sew

it

on from that point toward each

front.

Use strong twist and back-stitches on the under-side of

SLEE VES AND COLLARS

85

the waist. These stitches should pass through the interlining of the collar but

must not be seen on

Under no circumstances must

the edge

be stretched but sometimes the neck

its

outside.

of

a collar

may be given an

imperceptible extension and a more perfect

in the

fit

However

curves of the neck and shoulder be secured.

hazardous and should only be practiced

this is

experience

considerable

in

dressmaking

has

after

been

acquired.

Another method

of

making

a standing

seam the ends and upper edges ing

of the

collar is

cloth, interlin-

and lining altogether and turn them, and press.

Then

joining the middles of the cloth and

the waist at

its

neck, seam the

the lining of the collar

edges of the seam.

It

collar

on.

interlin-

seam

ing at their lower edges to the middle back

fell

to

of

Afterward

down covering

the raw

must then be thoroughly pressed

with the hot iron. Either of the above methods of sewing on a standing collar

is

preferable to the old one of sewing on

all

lower edges of the collar to the neck of the waist and a bias felled

facing

in

down over

fashion and not at fect

and close

a

seam

after

which the facing was This was clumsy

the raw edges. all

permissible in these days of per-

fitted bodices.

TURN-OVER COLLARS Both jackets and basques are frequently finished the neck by turn-over collars.

They

are

cut

in

at

two

portions with their front edges on the straight of the

goods.

SLEE VES AND COLLARS

86

This illustration shows a turn-over collar.

should never be sewed on

It

neck

to the

of a waist but

joined

first

and

cloth

When

all

band

a

to

should be

of

straight

attached to the neck.

it

the seams have been sewed

and pressed and the

waist put on,

turn over the collar and press

TURN-OVER COLLAR ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ than pressing

This style

if

before

in color

it

is

^j^^p^^

with

^j^-^ j^ ^^^^^^

put on.

should be given a lining of silk

of collar

harmonizing of canvas.

it

it

with the cloth and an interlining

Crinoline

may be used

instead

found more convenient, as there

is

of canvas

not so

much

firmness required for this style of collar as a standing one.

Where

the turned over collar

is as

wide as as the

one illustrated, the ends and lower edge are often

The

ished with a wire.

turn in the front

is

fin-

thus kept

in its upright position.

REVERS COLLAR

This collar to

make.

to say

is

Some

the most difficult of

all

authorities go so far as

no one, but

a

good

ever attempt one. But for

tailor

many

should double-

breasted jackets and basques they are

indispensable and

we

see

no

reason

why with care and good rules to follow' a woman may not accomplish even this collar.

REVERS COLLAR

SLEE VES AND COLLARS When seams is

the

collar

is

cut in

notches,

at the

pieces

three

joined at these seams and

The

lining of silk

a

Then the

together at the outside edge.

cloth

along the edge of the cut-away neck of

and an

seamed

garment, After

latter.

down over

felled

is

is

the

with the seam on the right side of the of the collar

by

cloth

and they are seamed

interlining of canvas is provided

which the lining

joined

easily made.

is

it

87

the

raw edges of the seam.

But more often the three-cornered part which comes down over

the

the front of the garment

itself.

is

continuous with

It is

the front turned

bust

This makes the collar more

over.

case the

thing to do

first

layer of canvas and then top face that is used for it

intricate.

In such

baste over this part a

to

is

of the collar

it

with the material

the remainder of the collar.

the cloth of the back portion

of

Join to

the collar in the

short seams and join that portion to the neck of the gar-

ment

When

itself.

all this

is

done and thoroughly

pressed by the hot iron nothing remains to do except fell

on a lining with a canvas interlining

for the

back

portion of the collar.

PLASTRONS

But owing

little

to

can be said on the trimming of bodices,

the

fluctuations

in

fashion.

bodice fronts are very pretty but

it

The

aspirant

is

draped

requires skill

handle a folded piece of cloth and lay pleats.

Full

it

in

to

artistic

cautioned against attempting

SLEE VES AND COLLARS

88

too

Even

much.

to

copy a fanciful design

requires a long and faithful apprenticeship.

But plain plastrons and

cuffs

A

managed.

isfactorily

front gives

desirable

a

can be more

double-breasted

style

to a

whatever the prevailing fashion. illustrated

cut

on

may

serve as a guide.

along the one side of tlic

outer edge

it

basque,

The one It

can be

three sides over the outlines of the

button-hole side of the basque.

A PLASTRON

sat-

basque

may

its

to

It is

joined

the button-hole side

entire

length.

Along

its

be finished in scollops, or simply

completed straight, slanted or narrowed toward the bot-

tom

of the basque.

It

may be

fastened

down along

that

edge bv buttons or by hooks placed on the under-side. But as that edge must be necessarily bias, hooks and eyes do not close

Pieces

like

it

securely.

this or

other

revers

should always be lined with silk and

be given an interlining of crinoline.

and sleeve at the

cuffs

same time

CHAPTER

VII

JACKETS AND CLOAKS ladies' TAILORING

THE

DIFFICULTY

ITS

SPONGING CLOTH FINISHING SEAMS

— CUTTING

PATTERN

—

LINING A WRAP

CLOTH

ladies' TAILORING

Tailoring varies from dressmaking principally in the

methods

of cutting

and finishing.

In cutting a gar-

ment (always done by measurements) the the pattern on the material tern,

and

itself,

the lining

is

merely put

in

as

nothing to do with the set or

seamed when the garment neatly

hemmed

over on

is

a fit

draws

using no paper patIn tailoring,

Afterward.

cutting the lining

tailor

neat

finish

of the

;

it

garment;

has it

is

sewed and boned, by being

itself.

Hence

tailoring only suc-

ceeds for cloths and heavy materials, because light fabrics

need the support of a lining

and substance.

On

the

to give

other hand,

them firmness

when

lining and

material are seamed together, as in dressmaking, the tailor's exquisite

ter

how

careful

fit

is

we may

nearly impossible. be, the

lining and

No

mat-

material

JACKETS AND CLOAKS

go

may

never exactly correspond, and then one

will

more than the other;

or stretch

no matter how small they may Tailoring

is

ness, strength

marked by

style of

be, are inevitable.

perfect accuracy, its firm-

its

and durability of workmanship.

naturally heavier

work than dressmaking, but

work adapted, and indeed requisite

The home

materials.

give

in either case wrinkles,

tailoress

will

find

for

an

It

is

it is

a

heavy inces-

sant need of hot, heavy irons in the course of her work, die

work

soap,

water,

But there for

it

the iron being assisted by the action of

of

is

and even paste as

is

elsewhere shown.

something satisfactory about the work,

looks so beautifully neat and firm ITS

when

finished.

DIFFICULTY

The novice should understand task a sewer can undertake

The ordinary dressmaker

is to

is

that the

make

most

difficult

a jacket or cloak.

not usually modest regard-

ing her ability but she has been forced to confess she

can not handle cloth like a for this

is,

tailor.

The only reason

she does not understand the value of bast-

ing and pressing as he does.

Did you ever upon

it?

It

is

see a coat while a tailor

is

at

work

always absolutely covered with white

bastings and he works with his hot goose within reach of his hand.

The

tailor also

cuts by the square and

rule but certain systems of dress-cutting are modelled

on the same principles and there are patterns that will

answer every purpose.

JA CKE TS AND What makes is

tailor a

cloth

it

is

expensive material that must be

Unless you are a

and have a

9

the contract also a very serious matter

that usually

risked.

CL OA KS

tried pattern

experienced in cutting

little

good plan

a

is

it

pay a

to

couple of dollars to cut the garment.

is

If

the

not cut with the correct curves and outlines

no power on earth will ever make

it fit

properly.

THE PATTERN

However, perfectly

it

yoM have

if

a

basque pattern that

fits

you

answer for a jacket with modifications.

will

The seams must be

cut a half-inch wider than for a

dress and the armse5'es cut one-half inch lower than a dress waist.

This extra allowance

is

of the thickness of materials used

garment

is to

required because

and because the

be worn over another waist.

For basques two darts are used but a jacket supplied with only one, and half-fitting or loose,

However, are better. line.

for

one dart

women

if

is

the jacket

is

usually

cut tight,

usually indispensable.

tending to Embonpoint two darts

The seam

lines tend to lengthen the waist-

Further along suggestions are given for lining

wraps but

this is

be done in that as

seldom done, and the it is

for dress waists.

there are an}^ doubts of the perfect is

is

the better plan to take

first fit it

fit

fitting

can not

Consequently,

if

of the pattern

it

some inexpensive muslin and

after the pattern.

When

that has been done

use this muslin as a pattern for cutting the cloth. This will often save tion.

you many dollars and much

mortifica-

JACKETS AND CLOAKS

92

SPONGING CLOTH

There are very few woolen cloths but require spongPerhaps the salesman from whom

ing before being used.

you purchase but

it is

does not need sponging,

will tell you, it

it

not safe to trust so unreliable an

All cloths

showing

gloss on

a

A

with the least drop of water. ruin a jacket

made up

Some women

in

the

authority.

surface will

light rain

shower

spot will

without sponging.

it

think this sponging of cloth a most

mysterious process and a thing they can not do for themselves.

And when

the cloth

is

taken to a dye or cleaning

house, there will be a charge of twenty-five cents per

This

yard for the sponging.

out of proportion

is all

for the service.

The work can be

done

easily

at

home.

Before cut-

ting the cloth, wring out of clear water a sheet or a strip of

muslin and lay

of the cloth.

it

between the folds

Towels, that do

used for the same purpose.

wet cloths and allow

it

not

of the right side

shed

lint

may

be

Roll up the cloth in these to wait a half

hour and then

remove the muslin and press the cloth on the wrong side until

it

be wrung out

is

as

perfectly dry.

drv as can

being placed on the cloth. off

The wet be done

cloths should

b}'

hand before

This sponging

the objectionable gloss and at the

will take

same time

will

sufficiently shrink the cloth.

Some is

wait until a

damp lowering

not raining and then

da)',

yet

when

it

they hang out in the air for

two or three hours, the cloth they want sponged.

This

JA CKE TS AND plainly the

is

CL OA KS

not a safe expedient.

damp muslin on

method but

it is

Another way

the cloth and iron

hot iron until both are dry.

93

This

is

to lay

with a very

it

certainly a safe

is

also a very laborious one.

CUTTING CLOTH

Upon

the surface of the

well as that there

is

smoothest woolen cloth as plushes and similar fabrics

of velvets,

By brushing

always a nap.

hand lightly along the surface can be readily detected. the cloth,

it

its

the

palm

of the

general direction

In laying the pattern upon

should be done in such a manner that the

nap always runs or turns down.

This rule should be

followed even at the expense of the quantity of cloth used.

These rules hold good with regard

to velvets

and

plushes used for the same purposes, although there

have been those who held that their nap should run

in

the other direction, to give them a desirable full look.

But the best authorities do not agree

When fit,

you

are sure

first.

Then

lay all the

cloth before cutting out one of them. that the

weave

of the

cloth

the weave of the pattern.

must

all

Alwaj^s

it.

the pattern at hand

cut your cloth but never before.

cheap muslin

to

is

a

good

As suggested,

fit

portions on the

Lay them on

so

corresponds exactly with

Then

the nap of the cloth

run downward. allow for generous seams.

mental garment they are safeguards.

In

an

experi-

The only change

JA CKE TS A ND

94

which waist.

Is

likely to be required is in

too long

If it is

it

the length

of the

may be remedied by

taking

up the shoulder seams when, armseye seams will have

to

make

as

To

away

a half inch before

the change

is

and

of course, tlie collar

be cut down.

fitting

cut

CL OA KS

few changes as possible

However, in

in

the cloth.

you are absolutely sure

required will often ruin the whole gar-

ment. LINING A WRAP

Lining a jacket or cloak and lining a dress are two very different and

distinct

things.

For

a bodice the

dress material and lining are seamed together.

For a

One

jacket or cloak two distinct garments are made. is

the cloth and the other the lining of silk

The only

points of connection are along the lines

The

the edges. are

made

or satin.

sleeves of the wrap,

in the

same manner.

if it

of

require sleeves,

Their cloth and lining

are only joined together at the wrists and the shoulders.

For cloaks an

inter-lining

is

frequently used.

It

gives the garment a certain desirable style to place can-

vas over the chest and across the shoulders and makes it

set well.

the same ate

Again

way

for

flannel is sometimes, introduced in

extra warmth.

These inter-linings

sewed together with the cloth seams, but the

lining

always remains separate.

portion must be laid open,

The seams

of

silk

each

notched and pressed

flat

before they are laid together. Pock'^ts are

among

the most difficult things to

age in making a jacket or cloak.

man-

Their openings are

JACKETS AND CLOAKS

95

cut in the cloth and they themselves are cut and

They

to lay flat.

are always put in before the lining is

attached and do not appear in

The pocket There

is

no

made

it

at

all.

welt or opening must

cloth,

always be stayed.

no matter how excellent that will

stand the strain of a pocket welt without a stay.

A

strip of canvas or silesia sewed in the fold of the welt is all

that

is

required.

FINISHING SEAMS

In heavy woolen garments, such as cloth jackets and

where the seams are

cloaks,

is

stitched and

sometimes is

be bound with satin,

and the garment

silk or farmer's satin,

binding

to

is

not lined, the

put on before the

cut wide

enough

beyond the basting of the seam.

to

extend

It is

seam

is

just a trifle

applied by the

usual binding process at each side, and then the seam is

stitched through

Seams

the binding as well as the fabric.

finished in this

until the binding has

row

of stitching

way

are not pressed, of course,

been added and sewed in

may

be

made along

the binding on the upper side of the

way

is

to baste

and a

seam edge.

A safer

the binding on, after the seams are

pressed, by the rolled

method

the binding under on the of

;

the rolled edge of

just

described, turning

under-side, so that one

machine-stitching will hold both

the basted edge in place. cut in bias strips are

Silk, satin

employed

it

and the

row

roll of

and farmer's satin

for this

kind of binding.

CHAPTER

VIII

PLAIN SEWING AND FANCY STITCHES

— FINE STITCHING — RUNNING — HEMMING HEM-STITCHING

OVER-HAND SEWING BACK-STITCHING

SEAMS FELLING

FRENCH FELL GATHERING SHIRRING OVERCASTING TUCKING GUSSETS PATCHING SEWING ON STRINGS

—

HAND-SEWING Since the advent of the sewing machine, stitching

by hand

is

considered a sad waste of energy.

same time the beauty and delicacy

of

At the

sewing done by

hand can not be equaled by the best machine work. Dainty linens and cambrics hemmed, felled and tucked

by hand

will

always be preferred and,

the market,

in

demand a better price from purchasers. Our grandmothers were taught needlework were taught

woman

their

A, B, C's and every

as they

little girl

and

to-day enjoy knowing the rules governing such

work.

For hand-sewing the foremost need is

of the very best

make.

of the

work-basket

sizes

of needles

They may be long

or short as

a needle-book well stocked with

96

all

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES

97

the worker prefers but they must have sharp points

The

and good large eyes.

best needles have eyes

large as possible in proportion

breaks

needle's point

away

at once, there is

or

off

as

When

to their size.

becomes bent throw

no econom}^ in preserving

it

a it

for

possible emergencies.

The work-basket should also be supplied with cottonthread of each number. Then in sewing be particular to use the sizes of needle

each other and

the

to

and thread best adapted

fabric to

be

A

sewed.

to

large

needle carrying fine thread will pierce a hole too large

be

to

by the thread, thus, making

filled

A

stitch.

weave

bery

ous

hole

or will

draw the

of the fabric out of place.

An emery bag sory.

uneven

thread too coarse for the needle or fabric

make an uneven ragged

will

an

This trifle

is

best

is

also a requisite work-basket acces-

homemade

as the fascinating straw-

under that name often contains a spuri-

sold

However, when sewing by hand, when the

filling.

needle loses only

its

smoothness, running

your hair once or twice restores the hair

is

a

The

it.

needles and pins.

through

natural oil of

powerful lubricator for both

flexible a piece of

it

refractor}'

For making the thread smooth and good white wax

is

always valuable.

OVER-HAND SEWING

Our grandmothers spent weaving narrow widths

of

their youths

linen

spinning and

they afterward fash-

ioned into sheets requiring a torturing seam their entire lengths. 7

It

was upon these overhand seams

little

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES

98 girls

will

were given their

if

it

be upon shorter seams our reader will learn the task.

Overhand sewing

of

We hope

sewing lessons.

first

will

be found a very simple lesson,

you avoid "puckering".

woe

in her

to

many

That word

a spectacled

dame

the

is

of to-day.

synonym

A

pucker

seam meant ripping and doing over many a long

seam, when she was a

little

girl.

OVER-HAND SEWING

Two

selvage

edges

overhanding are

for

basted

together and the sewer must stitch them over and over

from

right.

left to

The

stitches

kind must be even in depth; that of threads

To make

the

the

is

seam

of

this

same number

seam perfect the worker

must always introduce the needle matters

a

from the edge must be taken up by the needle

in each stitch.

It

in

little

whether

over and over as in the in the second.

at

the

angle.

be continuously straight

it

first illustration

Uniformity

same

is

the

thing

or slanting as desired.

this is followed persistently, precision soon

If

becomes

so natural as to require no effort.

The

fabric should be

pinned to the lead pincushion

or table and held, straight

over the

first

in

the

finger of the left hand.

hands, not

drawn

The thread should

not be drawn too tight over the selvage edges to allow

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES the seam to press out smooth

when

99

shown

finislied, as

in the third illustration.

Seams with raw edges may be sewed manner.

same

the

in

In such cases, however, the edges must

first

be turned down on the wrong side. FINE STITCHING

The orthodox method

is

to

sew

the fabric together by putting the

back

needle

the place

STITCHING

advance

of

bringing

the

latter.

makes each

stitch

the fabric.

Our

two threads behind

of it

its

Continuing

this

insertion,

threads in

a

in

line

two threads

only the length of

illustration

last

out two

of

shows more plainly than

any explanation the way the needle must be inserted. This is

is

the most exquisite of hand

seldom done, never except on the

sewing, but

it

finest of infants'

clothing and then stitches guided by the eye are dainty

enough, without the strain of the exactness of counting threads.

KUNNING SEAMS

Running

is

similar to stitch-

ing with the difference that the

needle

is

never put backward.

Several stitches

RUNNING STITCH thread

is

upou

drawn through the

fabric are taken

the

fabric.

may be

needlc

Two

taken

before

the

threads of the

up by the needle and two threads passed

1

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES

06

This does not make a seam

over.

but

any great strength,

used for skirt breadths and tucks sewed by

it is

hand.

of

All

drawn out

materials do

not allow of a thread being

easily to guide the needle, as is indicated in

our illustration.

Even when

be a considerable waste ing must early be

of time,

and children learn-

never

taught

would often

thej^ do, it

to

waste time.

A

piece of light cardboard or thick paper folded double

and cut

same purpose.

the

of

seam

will serve the

Being held firmly under the thumb

hand and slipping with

the left

the

width

of the exact

it

of

along the edge as

seam goes on, the needle being always carefully

inserted by the side of

lower corner, the straight

its

line will be quite correct.

BACK-STITCHING Back-stitching must not

be confounded with fine stitching.

They

are alike

with the exception that the

number BACK-STITCHING er stitch is twice the

needle tion

is

up

taken

of threads

m advance of the form.

r

,

number taken behind

it.

r

1

Or the

inserted two threads behind the former inser-

and brought out four threads

in

advance, or six

threads are taken up, on the needle.

There

is a

seam which

back-stitch and a run.

but

it is

It

stronger than a

is is

much used made up

of

a

not a very artistic seam

run.

For

this,

four or five

running stitches are taken, the thread drawn through

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES and then the needle

inserted two threads back and

is

another run of four or

loi

five stitches is

made.

HEMMING

The preparation sewing

for

is

of

a

hem

very important.

The raw edge must

first

be

turned under and the extra fold

HEMMING

which conccals

must be

it

These folds should not be crimped between the

The

but pressed together smooth and even. usuall}^ pressed into position

laid.

fingers

folds are

by the thumb, while others

down against the edge of a table. hems seems like a very simple form

rub them up and

The of

stitching of

sewing but carelessness

nice garment

hemming.

slip-shod

stitches of a

hem

of the fabric.

enough

only too

is

cheapened

often

is

in

Working from

common and

a

appearance, by

right

to left, the

should be taken up every four threads

They should not

of both parts of the

be. too long

hem should

but only

be taken on

the needle to secure the hem.

Cloth and thick materials are often finished by being turned over and stitched down.

hem need

kind of

work

is

it

Few is

hand-stitched, this

not be tacked, but for sewing machine

best to do so.

finishes for muslin dresses are prettier then the

stitched

hem

If

hem.

For children's

often worked with a silk

which gives the

effect

of a

dresses,

the

contrasting

Russian braid.

stitched in color,

Tarletan

1

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STI TCHES

02

ball dress flounces, stitched with white, or with colored

look admirably, and are thus trimmed at trifling

silk,

expense.

Another mode

hemming used by dressmakers

of

called by French dressmakers "half hem," and for

keeping

stitches are

the

lining of dresses

taken very far

time, in order not to is

the

up the

show on the

least

right

is

piece at a

This

side.

easy enough on thick fabrics, as cloth, serge, rep,

and poplin, but very is

position;

in

is

used

and the needle

apart,

inserted slanting so as to take

is

difficult

on thin

silk,

when, as

it

from showing

not possible to prevent the stitches

on the right side, the stitches are much closer together,

and

set at exactly

even distances.

HEM- STITCHING Hem-stitching

one

at

time entered largely into fanc3'-work

day

it

is

only,

but to-

used for hem-

ming, sheets, pillow cases, towels

HEM-STITCHING

and

other

household

^i^^j^g^

linen.

and

some

UapkiuS,

For

table-

doilieS

hem-stitching,

measure from the edge of the fabric the space the will require.

Then draw

hem

out at that distance from the

Then turn under a fold of the edge and baste the hem down to the drawn threads. Holding the wrong side of the hem towards

edge

five

threads of the fabric.

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES hemming

stitch

from right to

stitch run the needle

under

five

you work

At each

in regular

Repeat

threads of the fabric.

second time,

passing the needle through the edge of the

way you

In this

will find the ravelled

threads of the fabric

same time

that the

also.

of cross

stripe

When

sewed down.

is

a few threads are

drawn out the hem

one side only;

a

if

hem

divided into strands at the

are

hem

left.

the cross

of

the

this

103

number

is

only

worked on

threads are drawn

of

it

should be worked on both sides.

FELLING Felling It is

hemming

is

used for finishing a seam

and [strength.

with neatness It

seldom used except for

is

cotton,

FELLING

sewed together

in a

allowing a good

chine, is

for

,

,

a

muslin

linen or silk

when they

The seams

derwear. first

,

a seam.

are

made

.

into un-

or night-gown are

shirt

seam by hand or by the maedge.

The under raw edge

then cut one-half narrower than the other and the

wider

is

turned under like a fold of a

ward hemmed down fectly neat

when

flat.

and narrow and the turn pressed

down on

To make

felled, the

a

hem and

seam that

afteris per-

edges must be seamed even

in of the

wider

edge neatly

the fabric.

FRENCH FELL

The French

fell is also

much used

for

muslin under-

1

04

FLA IN SE WIN G A ND FANC V S TI TCHES wear.

has the great recommendation of

It

The edges

machine. together

first

on the right

of a

seam are run

with the raw edges coming

When

side.

trimmed even and

FRENCH FELL

by hand or

quickly done, either

being

they have been

as narrow

as

will be

consistent with strength, turn the seam and run

it

together on the wrong side taking in the raw edges.

This manner

of

closing a seam has been called the

"pudding-bag seam." are

If

the seams, as in other felling

made even and narrow, a neat, strong seam is the All ready- made underwear, unless especially

result. fine

has

its

seams finished by the French

fell.

GATHERING

To

gather a

ruffle correctly,

the old rule was to take

up on the needle two threads In these days it means three. ric in it

of the to

fabric

and pass

simply run the fab-

an even line with a thread strong enough to draw

together.

When this has been done,

push the needle

through the fabric at the end of the gathers and wind the thread back and forth over the needle securing the gathers.

Then

fastening

the end of

the cloth to a

leaded pin-cushion, with a coarser needle stroke each stitch into position,

between the

first

pushing the straightened stitches

finger

and thumb

of the left

hand.

SHIRRING

For

shirring, the line of

gathers

is

repeated again

PLAIN SEWING AND FANCY STITCHES and

again.

lines

These

should be an eighth inch

apart.

It

is

105

of

an

not re-

quired to stroke the stitches for shirring.

SHIRRING

OVERCASTING

Every seam should have

its

some manner. Chapter IV. gives

raw edges finished several

ways

in

for finish-

ing dress waists and the ordinary and French fells are

mentioned as before indicated are

many seams This

finish.

is

in this chapter, but there

requiring only a neat overcasting as a the term used for the far apart

over-

hand stitching which binds together raw edges. Care must be taken not to draw the thread too tight in overcasting.

TUCKING

The

great

Benjamin Franklin once gave

this rule for

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES

io6

measuring a tuck

make

tuck so as to all

to

points, the best

depth needed

the

between the tucks.

"In measuring a

daughter.

his

width mathematically even

its

way

piece of

to cut a

is

for the

tuck,

marking the space

Little triangular nicks in the card

can be cut to indicate these measurements. card in the

left

at

card

stiff

Hold

the

hand with the notched edge toward the

and move it along as you baste or mark. The tuck must be folded and basted. Machine stitching is best for tucks, but some will use only hand run right,

In cutting cloth to be tucked

tucks for infants' dresses.

twice the depth of each finished tuck must be allowed in the length.

GUSSETS

There are two kinds illustrate

more

is

a

of

One which we

gussets.

square piece of fabric

let in

to

give

fulness to a sleeve or any other part of a garment.

A GUSSET

A

gusset of this kind

is

always

cut

square.

It

is

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES first

107

joined on one side to the side of the sleeve by a

Then the other

felled seam.

ward joined

to the gusset

side of the sleeve

and felled like the

is after-

The

first.

gusset thus apears cornerwise in the upper part of the

shown.

sleeve, as is

The other kind

of gusset

and cut

alwa5's small

is

square or three-cornered (a square cut in two).

It is

placed in the opening of sleeves, of nightgowns, blouses, etc., to

prevent the tearing-open of the seams.

When

these gussets are not cut square, the edges

are turned in

on

all

the four sides, then the gusset

folded in two, so as to form

which

is

sewed

in

three-cornered

a

place, in

its

overcast

is

piece

stitch, the

needle taking together, at each stitch, both turnings-in

and the side

of the piece

of the

opening

which

in

it

is fitted.

If

the

had been

gusset

ings-in are also folded

cut three-cornered,

down on

cast stitch, half-way

remaining part

of

sides of

all

ner which forms a straight angle

is

up each side

it is

then folded

side of the garment and

sewed

of the

;

the cor-

in,

in over-

it

The

patch.

down on

hemmed around

turn-

the

wrong

neatly.

PATCHING Patching must be done with great care, for be as invisible as possible. the fabric which

away

into

a

All the

may surround

square

it

must

worn out part

of

the rent, must be cut

or rectangular

shape

following

exactly the thread of the fabric.

The patch

is

then cut of the same dimensions

as

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES

io8

the cut-out piece, allowing an extra quarter inch, according to the fineness of

the

or

half-

the

fabric, for

turnings-in.

PATCHING

At each corner

of the space cut out of

a slanting stitch

is

made

just half as

the material

deep as the extra

space given to the patch, and the edges are turned

The of the

material

then folded

is

patch which

is

(See illustration.) for

it,

so.

sewed

It

down

all

in in fine overcast stitches.

must exactly

fit

the space left

and neither pucker nor cause the material

It will

surely

fit

in

if

in.

round the edge

care

is

taken

to

to

do

give to all

the turnings-in. If

the patch has been put in woolen material

a dress, there

with a

warm

is

nothing to do but

iron

\

but

if it

turnings-in must be neatly

For linen there neater

still.

is

to flatten the

or in

seam

has been put in linen, the

hemmed down.

another kind of patching which

The patch

is

is

put in with a felled seam,

the felled part of the seam being ahoays formed by the patch, but the corners are very difficult

to

make

per-

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES fectly straight

women is

mode

another

is

none but experienced needle-

;

do them neatl)\

will

There

and even

of

patching cloth.

cut of the exact dimensions

been cut out, as there

is

of the piece

the needle never going

sewed

in,

its

tli

thickness.

needle. will

If

the

fine

silk

It is

or cotton,

rough the cloth, but taking in

When

the nap of the cloth

on the right side of the

The patch which has

no need of turnings-in.

sewed in on the wrong side with

only half

109

the patch

is

entirely

must be slightly raised

seam with the point

of

the

work has been neatly done the patch

be quite invisible, especially after having been

ironed down.

SEWING ON STRINGS

We give two illustrations to plainly indicate the

ways the

first

sewed on No.

I

where

on the right side

two

sewing on strings!

of

it

of the

shows

a

string

in the plain cloth

can not be seen

garment and

it is

No. 2 simply stitched on with as unobtrusive the second shows the string stitches as possible ;

attached to a

hem

or

seam on the edge

of the material.

CHAPTER

IX

PLAIN SEWING AND FANCY STITCHES (Continued)

DARNING

—WHIPPING — BINDING CORDING PIPING — CHAIN-STITCH^CROSS-STITCH — HERRING-BONE

STITCH

LOOPS

SLIP-STITCHING

BUTTON-HOLES

— SEWING

ON PEARL AND

SIMILAR BUTTONS SLIP-STITCHING Slip-Stitching

termed because the needle must

so

is

be slipped under the right side of the material without getting through

when hemming

The work

it.

is

held in the hands as

or sewing a seam, but the

ing the needle resembles

way

of insert-

more an overcasting

stitch.

ii"iilMliiti|.iHiMiiiiinniiii) [

Slip-stitch Finished

Slip-stitch

This

is

much used

made trimmings and

To make

the

dressmaking

in in

stitches

millinery entirely no

it

for is

fastening on

indispensable.

invisible

the thread

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES should be drawn as tight as

is

possible without caus-

This stitch may be used on

ing the fabric to pucker. silk

it

1 1

and other thin materials but

more

is

easily

on a

thick fabric like velvet.

WHIPPING

Whipping much used,

not

is

but for

gathering fine muslin

gauze

net,

woolen is

or

soft

materials

it

found convenient

As shown

and neat.

in the illustration, the

WHIPPING is

rolled

down by

work proceeds;

edge of the material

thumb

the

it is

sewed

of the

cotton strong enough to force the ers

when

it is

left

hand

as the

in overcasting stitches

with

material into gath-

drawn straight through. BINDING

There are two ways

of

binding.

in plain sewing, consists in

the braid or ribbon the material and to insert

is

One, chiefly used

simply folding the bind, as

termed, in two over the edge of

hemming

or stitching

it,

taking care

the needle through both sides of the braid.

(See illustration).

The

other, used in

rials, as it

down,

is

must be

dressmaking and for thick matefirst

sewed on and then turned

more elegant and

is

often used

as

a sort of

PLAIN SE WING A ND FANCY S TITCHES

112

ornament.

For

this

way

binding, the braid

of

is

laid

on the right side of the material as low under the edge as the binding

is in-

tended to be broad. run on just

It is

at

the edge then turned

down and hemmed on the

No

other

and

ble,

it

neat edge.

BiNDiNG

ing

must be taken, when running the

side

stitches are visi-

forms

a

In bind-

scollops,

care

make

suffi-

braid, to

cient allowance for the subsequent turning over, as the

scollops would curl should

be drawn too

the braid

tight.

A

good precaution, when using woolen braid, con-

sists in

hanging

previously soaking it

out to

liable to do,

it is

on afterward

it

It will

dr}'.

and will

will

warm water and then shrink then as much as

in

it

do so no more.

always

remain

When

flat,

sewed

and will not

cause those puckerings which are so great an objection to braid bindings.

CORDING

Cording

is

generally

used

to

Around the armhole and whenever two pieces

prevent it

is

stretching.

placed between

of material, the strips of material

carefully

cut on the bias, are folded just in two, a piece of piping

cord

is

slipped

in

and the

strip is neatly stitched in

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES When

together with both pieces of material.

ing

placed on the

is

within

the cordstrip

down, and the

cord

hem.

this allows for the

;

1

edge of the material, the

must only be folded half-way insei'ted

1

Beginners had best tack

down terial

that

the fold of the ma-

over the cord, but

unnecessary for

is

The

hands.

practised

strip nuist then be placed

CORDING side

of

the

on the edge

material,

the corded side

of the right

downwards,

and be stitched close under the cord, then the

down

turned

so that the corded

the right side of the material, and

wrong the

side.

When

Our

first

ing

is

illustration

the

lined,

side.

shows cording put on

hemmed down.

is

slip-stitching, so that

no stitches are visible on the right

and partly

hemmed on

the garment thus corded

hemming must be done with

strip is

edge alone shows on

at the

Another variety

frequently used as a trimming.

It is

of

edge cord-

shown

con-

between

two

sists in

inserting

materials one or more rows

DOUBLE CORDING

in

our second illustration and

of

cord more or less thick and stitch-

ing them down, forming in this way a series of orna

mental

ribs.

PIPING

Piping

is still

another style of cording that has, under

1

1

PLAIN SE WING AND FANCY STITCHES

4

name, been often in great favor

that

dresses.

trimming

for It

plain or double

te ^^^-x.^>&xv^_^vv^.^ws.