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Yarn, Fabric and Spinning process

Nakayama, Murata Parts Sales （081217）

Contents 1) Fiber and Yarn a) Material of Fiber b) Yarn 2) Production Spun Yarn a) Production Process of Cotton 100% and Cotton Blended yarn b) Each Process of Cotton Production 1) Opening and Mixing 2) Carding 3) Drawing 4) Combing 5) Roving 6) Spinning 7) Winding 8) Twisting 9) Weaving 10) Knitting 3) Summary a) Process Summary of Cotton 100% and Cotton Blended yarn b) Comparison of Cotton in each by each Process c) Process Summary of Weaving

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1) Fiber and Yarn a) Material of Fiber Seed Hair Fiber

Cotton

Bast Fiber

Linen

Leaf Fiber

Manila hemp

Plant Fiber

Natural Fiber

Cocoon Fiber

Silk

Animal Fiber Animal Hair Fiber

Wool, Worsted

Mineral Fiber Fiber

Metal Fiber

Inorganic Fiber

Glass Fiber Regenerated Fiber

Rayon

Semisynthetic Fiber

Acelate

Man-Made Fiber

Synthetic Fiber

Nylon Polyester Acrylic Polyurethane

Synthetic fiber has developed to replace Natural fiber. Polyester – Cotton Acrylic – Wool Nylon - Silk b) Yarn 1) Spun Yarn – Spin short fiber - natural fiber and or man-made fiber (staple fiber) Ex. Cotton, Wool, Polyester, Cotton/Polyester 2) Filament Yarn – Continuous yarn (filament) – Mainly by Man-Made Fiber Ex. Nylon, Polyester, Polyurethane, Silk

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c)

Spun Yarn Spun yarn consists of several short fibers. Each short fiber is indicated by finesse and fiber length. Indication method of spun yarn 1) Ne (English Count) For Cotton, Polyester, Rayon and their blended It is indicated length based on 1 lb (453.6g). Ex Ne1 - 840 yard = 1 lb Ne30 – 25,200 yard = 1 lb General indication – Ne30/1 = Ne30 single yarn 2) Nm (Metric )count) For Worsted, Woolen, Acrylic It is indicated length based on 1 kg. Ex Nm1 – 1 km = 1 kg Nm30 – 30 km = 1 kg Nm=Ne x 1.693 General indication – Nm1/36 = Nm36 single yarn 3) Tex ISO is trying to introduce Tex Count.

However it is not popular now.

It is indicated weight based on 1,000m Ex 1 tex – 1 g = 1,000 m 30 tex – 30 g = 1,000 m Tex = 1,000 / Nm = 591 / Ne Yarn twist direction and No. of twist Single yarn case Spun yarn is usually twisted. There are 2 kind of twist, Z and S in single yarn.

Z twist is usual in

single yarn. Ply yarn case Spun yarns are sometimes twisted as double or triple. In this case, assembled yarn is twisted. Generally single yarn is twisted as Z twist.

And ply

yarn is twisted as S twist as drawing right.

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No. of twist No. of twist is indicated as TPM=T/M (twist per meter) or TPI=T/I (twist per inch) 1 TPM=about 40 TPI d) Filament Yarn Filament yarn is consist of several continuous fibers. Most of the case, they are synthetic yarn as polyester, nylon, Polyurethane. Indication is as denir. D or d (Denir) It is indicated weight based on 450m Ex 1 d – 0.05 g = 450 m 150d – 7.5 g = 450 m

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2) Production Process of Spun Yarn

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a) Production Process of Cotton 100% and Cotton Blended Yarn Cotton 100% A. Carded Yarn

Opening

Mixing Blowing

Carding

Drawing (twice)

Roving

Ring Spinning

Drawing

MVS

Roving

Ring Spinning

Winding

B. Combed Yarn

Opening

Mixing Blowing

Carding

Drawing Twice

Winding

MVS

Combing Process Rap Combing Formaer ・By combing process, short fibers are removed and uniformity is improved. Yarn becomes stronger. ・In this process, 12 - 20 % fiber (short fiber) is removed.

Cotton Blended Yarn A. Blending at Drawing Process Synthetic fiber Mixing Opening Carding

Roving

Winding

Drawing

MJS MVS

PreDrawing Drawing (twice)

Cotton fiber Opening

Ring Spinning

Mixing Blowing

Carding

・Cotton and Synthetic Process is separated and blended at drawing process. ・Pre-drawing of synthetic process is to check the weight. ・Advantage - Easy to change mixing ration (