Designing and Patternmaking for Stretch Fabrics - Richardson, Keith.pdf
FOR STRETCH FABRICS KEITH R . ICHARDS •• • •• • '' ' I I Director of Sales and Acquisitions: Dana Meltzer-Berkow
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FOR STRETCH FABRICS
KEITH
R . ICHARDS
•• • ••
•
'' ' I
I
Director of Sales and Acquisitions: Dana Meltzer-Berkowitz Executive Ed1tor: Olga T. Kontzias Acquis1t1ons Ed1tor: Joseph Miranda Senior Development Editor: Jennifer Crane Art D1rector: Adam B. Bohannon Production Manager: Ginger Hillman Cover Design: Adam B. Bohannon
Copyright © 2008 Fairchild Books, A Division of Conde Nast Publications. All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be·reproduced or used in any form or by any means-graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems-without written permission of the publisher.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2007935039 ISBN: 978-1-56367-479-2 GST R 133004424 Printed in the United States of America
TP12
CONTENTS
lntrodudton
1 >.
1
:"tn·tch 7WUPaand .]urgon
2
annd
3
PnnCipls of Pattern-Drafting 53
4
Slopers and Reductions 75
5
Skirts 107
6
Pa nts
7
Tops 201
8
Sleeves 249
9
Sweaters 279
10
Dresses 317
11
Oversized Projects
12
Four-Way-Stretch 371
13
Bodysuits, Leotards, and One- and Two-Piece Swimsuits 395
14
Fitting and Corrections 425
.i\len.,urements 29
175
341
Appendix: Costing Sheets 443
INTRODUCTION
!n the past. the garment industry ,,·as segmented Into different categories such as daywear, eveningwear. and swimwear. The industry was also divided into houses that manufactu'red knits and those that manufactured wo,·en fashions. However, in order to remain competitive in the current marketplace. today. all designers and manufacturers must incorporate stretch fabrics in their collections. A large portion of modern collections are created from stretch and knit fabrics. Almost all tops, sweaters, swimsuits, and dresses in a designer collection are created utilizing knit fabrics. The modern designer must understand the use of knit fabrics a nd the specific patternmaking procedures required to ma ke knit garments. Most new stretch designers and patternm akers mistakenly believe that stretch a nd knit garments must be extremely close-fitting a nd tight. While this is often the case, it is not always t rue. Stretch garments can also be loose, draped, shirred, oversized, and fluid . Cowl necks, draped effects, ruffles, a nd flow can easily and very effectively be created th rough the use of knit fabrics. It is the character of the fabric to be fluid and liquid, and it is for this reason that ma ny designers and manufacturer s use stretch fabrics in their collections. Most beginners also assume t hat stretch garments are not "designer." However, Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine Alaia, Missoni, Norma Kamali, and Stephen Burrows, are examples of designer s who have built entire collections and empires based primarily on knit fabrics. Throughout this text, the terms "stretch fabric" and "knit fabric" are used interchangeably. The characteristic that m akes fabric stretch is knitting that is not done like your grandmother while she sat on the porch in her favorite rocking chair, but instead with huge industrial machines that replicate the exact same stitches she used to make that holiday sweater. The new designer can't imagine that your favorite T-shirt, hoodie, ar your comfy fleece track pants were created by bitting with eith er small or large needles.
The Intended Audience This book i::: intended for students of fashion, current designers that need refresher lessons or updated knowledge of designing and patternmaking for stt·ctch, a nd the experienced home sewer who requ ires pattcrnmak ing knowledge for stretch fabrics. This book assumes that the reader has a basic understa nding of sew ing and will be able to construct these ga rments with industrial equipment. It does not show very many sewing a nd construction techniques. This text is unique in that is develops different slopers for each different stretch r atio, thus allowing the patternmaker to focus on the r ealization of the design a nd not the mathematics necessary to compensate for the stretch factors of knit fabrics. The la rgest ratio is drafted and the other stretch r atios, being smaller, are outlined on the larger sloper. This book is intended as an introduction to the principles a nd practices of stretch patternmaking a nd not every imaginable style is illustrated. To gain a more thorough knowledge of the subject matter it is imper ative that the student practice a nd apply the principles explained in this book. Eventua lly, the patternmaking will become instinctuaL This book a lso cannot foresee the constant and evolving changes inherent in the fashion industry and, consequently, the styles illustrated throughout this text a re not chosen for their fa shion importa nce, but rather as a teaching tool to illustrate the ma ny different patterndrafting techniques the student should understand. The styles created throughout this text are not shown as exa mples of current fashion. Ins tead, they are intended to instruct the patternmaker and designer how to use their own creativity to develop their own unique styles. This textbook is different from other books in that it studies and explains each garment type, rather than garment parts. The student is able to go to the section for T-shirts, and find out how to draft the sloper, create the pattern,
,.,.. th: ,.
INiRODUCTION
I
a?QG th use '
tlle re Ievant garment details. . rather . an sifting through chapters trying to find the mformation necessary. Often. this textbook is repetiti,·e because it has been created so that students may turn to the chapter they are interested in and be able to complete a project without ba,·ing to flip though many chapters and each eYery page looking for a neckline t hat may only apply to a T-shirts.
How This Book Is Organized Each area of study will begin with the draft of a sloper/block. which is a basic template of t h e garment. and then proceed to illustrate different patterns within the subject area. The final portion of each area of study will focus on a dvanced patternmaking practices of the subject matter. This will be followed by an exercise, garment, to test the designer's knowledge of the
subject matter. and a s hort quiz to delerrnin that you fully under sta_nd . the concepts of project. Each p~oJ ect W ill m corporate two dif. fer en t sea m fimshes, so that by the time th student h as completed the ten projects requir ~ for the course, the student will h ave a thorou:h understanding of stretch fa brics.
About the Diagrams and Illustrations Please note the diagra ms and illustration are not in the correct proportions. The reader cannot measure the illustrations because they are not accurate. All measurements will be indicated a nd should b e followed as taken from the m easurement charts provided. Any of the measurements given may be substituted with per sonal measurements for t h e development of personal slopers and patterns or for custom designs.
Legend The foll owing '"_'ill be used throughout the text and may be used as a gmde to the illustrations.
Fabrics
0
Slopers and blocks
[]
D -
Patterns with seam allowances
Production patterns
l l l ll lllllllll l lllllllll l lllllllllllllllllllllll
One by one rib
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One by two rib
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Two by two rib
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INTRODUCTION
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Three thread serging
Elastic waist
Elastic waist with stitch through the center
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Elastic waist with two rows of stitching through the center
Coverstitch from the correct side
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Three by six rib
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Coverstitch from the wrong side
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Four thread serging
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Topstitching
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Zipper teeth
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Catalogue Catalogue clothes are lab · ' e 1e d ,;rnaller 0 t ·at t h ey will generate ~e,··e or crealL·d \anTL'r ' r return,:; ·Th " · ~. h wtth a garment that\ a little t 00 b. · · e _cu,;tonwr \nll hw garment that i;; too tight. tg. but wtll alwn~·:; n'turn a
French Sizing 1. French wom
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Knit size
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32 25 35 10.24
%
Extra Extra Large
10
Junior Knit size Size
Extra Large
1 1'/..
Extra Extra Large
20 45
22 11 2
37 1 '2
48 '·, 12 ' '
47 39 50 12%
Extra Extra Large
16 w
24
49
51
53
b4
56
47 58
63 55
60
23 ' .
25...
G.J 2 9 .. 4
68
? 1 y,.
62 27"..
66
1 0 '/..
3 1.75
3 3 .75
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65 57
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(contmued)
-- -
Half Sizes Knit size Size Bust Waist Hips Crotch depth
Extra Small 14 '12 16 112
41 32 112 44 11 1/e
43 34 '12 46 13 1/a
18 112 45 36 '12 48 15 1/a
Small 20 112
47 38 '12 50 17 11e
Medium 22 '12 24 112
49 40 '· 52 19 1/e
-
51 42'·• 54 21 1/a
26 112 53 44 1 56 23 1/o
l arge 28 'h
55 46 1'1 58 25'/o
-~
Extra l arge 30 '12 32 '12
Extra Extra Large 34'12 24
57 48'h 60 27 1/o
61 52.5 64 31.125
-
59 50 •;, 62 29'/e
Plus Sizes Knit size Size
Extra Small 16 18
20
Bust Waist Hips Crotch depth
41 33 44 11 %
45 37 48 15%
43 35 46 13 %
Small 22
47 39 50 17%
24
Medium 26
49 41 52 19 %
28
Large 30
Extra Large 32 34
Extra Extra Large 36 36
51 43 54 21 %
53 45 56 23 %
55 47 58 25 %
57 49 60 27%
59 51 62 29 %
61 53 64 31%
Other Sizing Metric
32
France Italy Germany Vanity sizing European equivalent to S-M-L
0 2 -4 - 6 0
2 0 -2 -4
63 54.5 66 33.125
63 55 66 33%
--
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
46
50
52
4 2 0 -2 1
6 4 2 0
8 6 4 2 2
10 8 6 4
12 0 8 6 3
14 12 10 8
6 14 12 10 4
8 16 14 12
10 18 16 14 5
12 20 18 16
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34
CHAf"TER 2
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
How to Take Measurements d e in the Misses si ze ran ge The measurem ents include! a~own m easurem ent s with th' 80 pare t 1e11 ose that students ca n com C mpar e your m easurem ents w·th taken fr·om t h e dress-f~r:~m~ne the size of your dress-for1lll the ones provtded to e k . g measurements correctly. ' and to ch eck if yo u ar e ta tn
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#1 BUST
Measure around the smallest part of the waist. Do not ptll the tape too tight, but keep it comfortably relaxed.
#1 BUST
~ze
Extra Small
S
11
M
Extra Extra Large 43 '·8
45'•
45 45 6 "6
47 47' ,.
6
45
63
·••
61 61
47 65
63 63
ay e changed to suit your particular target customer.
large
29 30 '12 30 '12 31 '12
30 '12 32 32
33
Extra large 32 33 ··~ 33 'h 1
34 /~
Extra Extra LAI9'
33 1 ':1 35 35
35 '.;. 23% 25 24% 22 a/e 24%
23% 21 7/a 23% 25'/s 24 4/e 22 7/e 24 'le
23'/e 22 23 4/e 25% 24% 23 24 %
23% 22 1/e 23% 25% 24% 23 1/a 24 %
23 % 22'/• 23% 25% 24 7/a 23 % 24 7/e
18 23% 22 % 23 7/a 25 % 25 23 % 25
20 24 22'12 24 25 % 25 1/e 23 4/a 25 1/a
Extra Ext ra Large
22 1
24 /e 22 % 24 1/a 25 7/e 25% 23% 25%
24 24'1a 22 3/• 24% 26 25% 23'/• 25%
#6 WAIST TO ANKLE Extra Small Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Pius size
2 38'/s 36% 38 '/s 40 7/e 38 % 37% 39%
4 38'/e 36 7/e 38'/e 41 1/a 38% 37% 39%
Small
6
38% 37 '/a 38% 41 % 38 7/a 37'/e 39 7/a
Mediu m
8 39 37 % 39 41 % 39 37 % 40
L arge
E xtra Large
•• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •
Extra Ext ra Large
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
39 % 37 % 39% 41 7/e 39 1/e 37% 40 1/e
39% 37 7/a 39'/a 42 1/e 39% 37 '!. 40 %
39% 38 1/a 39 % 42% 39 % 38 40 %
40 38 % 40 42 % 39'/a 38 1/a 40 '/a
40% 38 % 40 % 42 7/a 39 % 38% 40 %
40'/a 38 7/a 40 '/a 43 '/a 39% 38% 40%
40 % 39 1/a 40% 43% 39 7/e
41 39% 41 43 511
38'/a
40 38 511
40'1a
41
•• •• •
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
CHAPTER 2
37
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,
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
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•• ••.
•• •
#10 BACK CROTCH EXTENSION
119 FRONT CROTCH EXTENSION The front ~..rotcr e•te'1SI01'1 IS not a direct body measurement, but IS necessary for drafting pants.
The back crotch extension is not a direct body measurement, but is necessary for drafting pants.
The front crotch measurement IS one-thtrd of the front hip draft measurement
The back crotch measurement is o ne-fourth of the front hip measurement.
I
• I I I
119 FRONT CROTCH EXTENSION Extra Small Size M1sses Pelite Junior M1sses tall Women 's Half size Plus SIZe
2
2' 2 2
2 la
22. 271s 2% 2%
Small
Medium
Large
Extr a Large
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
2 2 '8 2% 2% 3 'Ia 3 3
2% 2% 2% 2% 3% 3% 3%
2% 2% 2% 2% 3% 3% 3%
2% 2% 2% 2'1s 3% 3%
2% 2'1s 2'1s 2% 4 'Is 4 4
2% 2% 2% 2% 4% 4% 4%
2% 2% 2% 2% 4% 4% 4'1e
6
8
10
12
14
3 3 3 'Is 3 11s 4 'Is 4 4
16
18
3 3 '1s 3 '1s 3% 4% 4 'Is 4 'Is
3 'Is 3% 3% 3% 4% 4% 4%
3% 3% 3% 3% 4% 4 41s 4%
3% 3% 3% 3%
3% 3% 3% 3% 5 4% 4%
3% 3% 3% 3% 5'1a 5 5
3 71a
18
2% 2% 2 71s 2 7ls 4 71a 4% 4%
Extra Extra Large
20
22
24
2% 2 7/s 2 71s 3 5 'Is 5 5
2 /s 3 3 3 5% 5% 5%
3 3'/s 3'/s 3'/s 5% 5% 5'/s
7
#10 BACK CROTCH EXTENSION Extra Small Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
2
2% 2 71s 2 71s 3 3 71a
3% 3%
4
2 71s 3 3 3 4 3'1e 7
3 1a
Small
Medi um
Large
4 71a
4% 4%
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
20
22
3% 3 71s 3 71a 3% 5% 5 1le 5%
7
3 la 4 4 4 5•/e 53.18 53.18
24 4 4 1/a 4 2/a 4 1/8 s ~/1
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S IZI NG AND MEAS UR E M E NTS
C HAPTE R 2
39
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#1 1 CROTCH ANGLE
#12 NAPE TO WAIST
The crotch angle IS not a direct body measurement, but is necessary for drafting pants.
The nape is the point where the neck intersects with the bac k.
The c rotch angle IS one-half of the front c rotch extension.
Measure straight down from the nape to the waist at the center back.
#11 CROTCH ANGLE Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half s ize Plus size
Ext ra Small
1 'I• 1 'Is 1 1ls 1'1s 1% 1
1 'le 1 'Is 1 'I• 1 1ls 1 1ls 1 1ls 1 'Is
Medium
Small
1 'Is 1 'Is 1% 1% 1 4/s 1% 1 4ls
1 'Is 1 'Is 1 'Is 1 'I• 1% 1% 1%
1 'Is 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
1% 1% 1% 1% 1 7/s 1% 1%
#12 NAPE TO WAIST Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
Extra Small
15 % 14 % 15 % 16 7ls 16 % 15 % 17
15 % 15 15 % 17 'Is 16 7ls 15 % 15 4ls
Small
15 7l s 15 % 15 7ls 17 % 17 '1s 16 15 %
16 1ls 15% 16 '1• 17 % 17 % 16% 16
Medium
16 % 15 % 16% 17 71s 17 % 16 4ls 16%
16% 16 16 % 18 '1s 17 71s 16% 16'1s
Extra Large
Large
1% 1% 1% 1% 2 '/s 2 'Is 2'/s
1% 1% 1% 1% 2 1 7/s 2
1% 1 4/s 1'/s 1'/s 2 '/s 2% 2 4/s
Extra Large
Large
16 'Is 16 % 16 71s 18% 18'1s 17 16%
1% 1% 1% 1% 2% 2% 2%
1
17 /s 16% 17 11s 18% 18% 17 % 17
17% 16% 17 % 18 71s 18% 17'1s 17%
17 % 17 17% 19 '/s 18 7/s 17% 17'1s
Extra Extra Large
1 4ls 1 4/s 1'/s 1'/s 2% 2 '/s 2'1s
1 4/s 1'1s 1'1s 1'1s 2 7/s 2% 2%
Extra Extra Large
17 7/s 17 % 17 '1s 19% 19 11• 18 17 %
18 1/s 17'/s 18 1/s 19% 19% 18% 18
40
CHAPTER
••
2 SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
•.
.. .
~---~
~
, I
•• •• ••
I '
#14 BACK NECK RISE
#13 BACK NECKLINE
The back neck rise is not a direct body measurement OU\ is calculated as one-eighteenth of the nec kline measure-
The back neckline is not a direct measurement, but is cal· cu lated as one-sixth of the total neckline measurement.
ment.
#13 BACK NECKLINE Size
Extra Small
Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
2'1a 2% 2% 2'12 3 2% 2%
2% 2% 2% 2 '12
3% 3 3
Small
2% 2% 2% 2 112
2% 2% 2 112 3% 3 112 3 '12
2% 2% 2% 2'12 4 3% 3%
7
7
%
314
1a 'Ia
'I•
7
7
1% 1% 1%
'Is
1a 7 1a
1% 1% 1%
1% 1% 1%
1'h 1% 1%
3'1a
3% 3'1·
Large
Medium
2'1a
Extra Large
2 '12
2 '12
2 '12
2 '12
2% 2% 2 '12 4% 4 4
2%
2 '12
7
2 1a
7
2 la
2%
2% 4%
2 '12 3% 2% 5
4'1a 4'12
4'/.
4 '12 4 '12
4 61a
4lr,
Extra Extra large
2% 2 1 '2
2', 2":
2'•
0
2 .3~
2'~
2 51a 5'8 5 5
2'• 5' e 5 '•
2 ~£
s·.
2' -
s•, 5'\ 5 '~
#14 BACK NECK RISE Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
Extra Small
% %
%
314
'Ia 7 1a
'Is
1 'I•
'Is
314 1% 1% 1%
Small
% 314 7
Medium
1a
la
Large
'Ia
7
31·
31• 1
1a 7 la
1a
7
Extra large 7
ls
T
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1
8
' 1$
•a
1f a
1',e
0
1•1a
1'12 1'/e
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'I• 1 'h
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1'h
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1 'h 1% 1%
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Extra Extra~
.
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SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
C HAPTER 2
41
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~5SHOULDERLENGTH
#16 ACROSS BACK
Measure from the point that the neck and shoulders intersect to the point where the shoulder and arms intersect.
Measure between the two bones at the top of the armhole, and since the draft will be completed as one-quarter of the body, you need to divide this measurement in half.
Where exactly are the shoulders? Place your hand on the bone at the top of your shoulder. Pivot the arm. If you have the correct location on the bone, your arm should pivot around this point.
#15 SHOULDER LENGTH Size
Extra Small
Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
5 4% 4 7/s 4 7/s 5% 5 '12 5%
5 1/s 5 5 5 5% 5% 5%
Medium
Small
5 '/. 5 5 1/s 5 5% 5% 5%
5 112 5 '/s 5 2/s 5 1/s 5 7/s 5 3/4 5%
#16 ACROSS BACK Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
7
6 /s 7 2/s 7 '1s 7 4/s a% a% a%
7 7% 7% 7% a% a 'Is a%
1
7 /s 7% 7% 7% a '/s a% 8%
6 5% 5 4/s 5 2/s 6 5 7/s 5 7/s
Medium
Small
Extra Small
5 3/4 5 '/s 5% 5 1/s 5 7/s 5 3/4 5%
7 2/s 7% 7% 8 9 a% a%
7% 7% 8 8 1/s 9 1/s a '/s 8 7/s
7% 7 7/s 8 1/s 8% 9% 9 9
Extra Large
Large
6 '/4 5% 5% 5% 6 5 7/s 5 7/s
6'12 5 4/s 5% 5 4/s 6 1/s 6 6
Large
7% 8 8% 8 4/s 9% 9 1/s 9 '/s
7% 8 1/s 8 4/s 8% 9 4/s 9 2/s 9%
6 '1. 5% 5 7/s 5% 6 1/s 6 6
Extra Extra Large
7 5% 6 5% 6 '/. 6 1/s 6'/s
Extra Large
7 7/s 8 2/s 8% 8 7/s 9% 9% 9%
8 8% 8 7/s 9 '/s 9% 9'/s 9 4/o
7 1/4 5 7/s 6 '/s 5 7/s 6 '1• 6 1/s 6 '/s
7 '/s 6 6% 6 6% 6% 6%
Extra Extra Large
8 1/s 8'/s 9 '/s 9% 9% 9% 9%
8% 8% 9% 9 4/s 10 9% 9%
~
l'Ho\PHR 2
.. •
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
I
\
\
•• •
\
\
#18 SHOULDER PITCH
#17 SLEEVE LENGTH Measure from the top of the sleeve to the wrist.
Also called shoulder angle.
Measure from the shoulder bone to the elbow and continue down to the wrist.
The shoulder pitch is not a direct body measurement, but is calc ulated as one -eleventh of the nape to waist measurement.
#17 SLEEVE LENGTH Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
Extra Small
22% 21% 23 % 24 % 23 7/s 22 % 32 1/s
22% 21 % 23 '/s 24 4/s 24 22% 32 %
Small 7
22 /s 21 '/s 23 % 24 % 24 1/s 22'/s 32 %
Medium
23 21 % 23 % 24 % 24 % 22 % 32%
23 1/s 21% 23 7/s 24 7/s 24 % 22 % 32%
23 % 21 7/s 24 25 24 % 22 7/s 32%
Large 3
23 /s 22 24 1/s 25'/s 24 % 23 32 7/s
Extra Large 4
23 /s 22'/s 24 % 25 2/s 24% 23 1/s 33
23 % 22 % 24 % 25% 24 7/s 23% 33 1/s
23 % 22 % 24 4/s 25 4/s 25 23% 33%
Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
Extra Small
1% 1% 1'/s 1'/s 1'/s 1% 1 4/a
1% 1% 1 4/s 1 4/s 1% 1 4/s 1%
Small
1'/s 1% 1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
Medium
1'/s 1% 1% 1% 1 7/s 1% 1 '1e
1 '/s 1% 1% 1% 2 1 7/a 2
1 4/s 1 4/s 1% 1% 2 1/a 2 2 1/a
Large
1 '/s 1% 1% 1% 2% 2 '/a 2%
1% 1 4/s 1% 1% 2% 2% 2%
Extra Large
1% 1% 1% 1% 2 '/a 2% 2%
1% 1% 1% 1% 2% 2% 2 5/e
••• •• -• -- •••
Extra Extra Large
23 7/s 22 4/s 24 % 25% 25 '/s 23'/s 33%
#18 SHOULDER PITCH Size
•• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •
24 22% 24% 25% 25% 23 % 33'/a
Extra Extra Laf98
1% 1% 1% 1% 2% 2%
28/e
••
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
/
1
CHAPTER 2
43
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#19 BICEP CIRCUMFERENCE
#20 WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE
Wrap tape around the fullest part of the bicep. This measurement is helpful when drafting the sleeve to check that the sleeve will be large enough to accommodate a larger bicep.
Wrap tape around the wrist. Th1s measurement is helpful when draft1ng the sleeve to check that the wrist w '1 be large enough to accommodate the hand.
#19 BICEP CIRCUMFERENCE Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
Extra Small
10 10% 10% 10% 14 % 13% 13 %
10 % 10 % 11 '1• 11 14 7le 14 11e 14 1le
Small
Medium
11 11s 11'1e 11 71e 11 % 15 % 14 7le 14 7le
10 % 11 '1• 11 4le 11 % 15 '/s 14 'Ia 14 'Ia
11 7ls 12 2le 12% 12 4le 16% 15 % 15 %
11 '1• 11 7le 12 2le 12 1le 16 15% 15'/s
Large
12 % 12 % 13 12 71e 16 % 16 16
Extra Large
12 % 13 13% 13% 17 '1• 16% 16%
13 13 31e 13 618 13%
13 3'8 13 % 14 .,. 14
17' '•
17 ~s
16% 16%
17 .• 17 "•
Extra Extra Large
13 6 • 14 . 8 14' 5 14 '·· 1a'.
1..i
c
14 4
!
14-' "'4 E ~
1a'
#20 WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE Size Misses Petite Junior Misses !all Women's Half size Plu s size
Extra Small 1
5 1e 5%
5'1a 5'1• 7'1• 6% 6%
5'1• 6'1• 6 6%
7'1a 7'1• 7 1le
Small
5 7la 6'1• 6'1• 6%
7 '1a 7'1e 7 4/e
6%
6 '1• 6% 7 a%
7 11a 7 '/e
Large
Medium
6% 7% 6% 7% a% 8% 8%
7 7%
6'1• 7%
9 8% 8%
7% a 6% a•;.
7•,. a ·'· 6"-'• a'!
9J,. 9 9
9 •• 9'•
9'•
Extra Large
a'8 a•. 6 -. a·. 10 1 •
9"• 9"•
Extra Extra Large
g:, g
7
a·. 9'• 7'
9'•
9'•
10
10'• 10'.
10'.
a·.
9 '•
•
-· r
•
11~
10' 10'/o
...
CHAf'TER 2
SIZING AN D M EASUR EM ENTS
''
1121 NECK CIRCUMFERENCE
#22 BUST SPAN
Wrap measunng tape around base of neck, and measure but do not pull the tape too t1ght.
Measure from apex to apex across the front chest. Drafting tube tops may be useful.
1121 NECK CIRCUMFERENCE E; tr a Small Size MISSes Pet1te Jumor M1sses tall
Women's Half SIZe Plus size
2 14 13 •·s 14 ' 1• 14 5/e 17 21a 16 % 16 %
4 14 '!. 13 /a 14 /a 14% 17 51e 17 1/s 17 '1s
Small
6 14 % 14 15% 14 71s 18 17'1s 17'/s
Medium
8 14 % 14 '1• 15% 15 18 % 17 71s 17 71s
10 14 71s 14 % 15 71s 15 11s 18 % 18 % 18 %
12 15 14 % 16'1s 15% 19 11s 18 % 18 %
Large
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
14
16
18
20
22
24
15 'Is 14 % 16% 15% 19'1s 19 19
15 % 14% 16% 15 % 19 71s 19% 19%
15% 14 % 17 11s 15 % 20 % 19% 19%
15% 14 71s 17% 15% 20 % 20 1/s 20'1s
15% 15 17% 15 'Ia 21 20 "/e 20'1s
15% 15 1/a 18 16 21 % 20 7/s 20 'la
1122 BUST SPAN Size Extra Small Misses Petite Junior Misses tall
Women's Hatt Size Plus size
6'1o
6% 6% 6% 8 7% 7"1•
6% 6% 6% 6 71a 8'1s 7'1• 7 71a
Small
6% 6'1s 6 '1. 7 8% 8 8
6 /'s 7 7 7 '1a 8% 8 '1s 8'1a
Medium
7 7'1s 7'1a 7% 8% 8% 8%
7'1s 7% 7% 7% 8% 8% 8%
Large
7% 7% 7% 7% 8% 8 '1a 8 "/a
7% 7% 7'1s 7% 8 71a 8% 8%
Extra Large
7% 771s 7% 8
9 8%
a•;,
7 71s 8 7% 8'/a
Extra Extra Large
8 '/s 8% 7 7/a 8%
9%
9%
8%
9 9
8 7111
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
I
J
I
CHAPTER 2
45
I
#23 BUST LEVEL
Measure from the shoulder point down to fullest part of bust. This measurement is helpful when determining the bust apex, and will be useful when drafting low-cut tops.
#23 BUST LEVEL S ize
Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
Extra Small 7
9 /a g% 9 7/a 10% 12% 11 % 11 7/a
10 g 'fa 10 1/a 10% 12% 11 s;. 12 1/a
Small 1
10 /a 9% 10% 11 12% 11 7/a 12%
10% 9% 10% 11 1/a 13 12 1/a 12%
M edium
10% 9% 10% 11 % 13% 12% 12 7/a
10% 10 11 1/a 11 % 13 4/a 12% 13 1/a
Large
10% 10 1/a 11 % 11 4/a 13% 12 7/a 13%
10% 10% 11 % 11 % 14 13 1/a 13%
Extra Large 7
10 /a 10% 11 % 11 % 14% 13% 13 7/a
11 104 /a 12 1/a 11 % 144/a 13% 14 1/a
Extra Extra Large
11 1/a 10% 12% 12 14 "Ia 13 7/s 14%
11 % 10"/a 12'; a 12'/a 15 14 ''• 14'·a
·~
HA.PTER 2
SIZING AND MEASU R E M E NTS
•• •• •• •
•• •
• ••
•24 HIP DEPTH
#25 HIGHEST PART OF CHEST OR BUST
Measure L'le a sta~ce from the wa1st to the fullest part of tl'e h p May be used to check h1p placement and hip ootcl'es
Measure around the highest part of the chest, directly un. der arms. Note: This is above the fullest part of the chest.
N24 HIP DEPTH
S1ze M1sse! Pet1te Jumor MISSeS tall
Women 's Half SIZe Pius SIZe
Extra Sm all ~3
34 35 35'/e 46 44 44 1 /
34 35 1/•• 36 36'1• 48 46 46
Small
35 ;. 36 8h 37 37'·, 50 48 48
36'/a 37 8/16 38 38 '/a 52 50 50
Medium
37 '/a 38 8/ ,s 39 39% 54 52 52
38 % 40 40 8/ ,s 41 56 54 54
Large
40 41 8/,s 42 42 '/a 58 56 56
41 'Is 43 43 8/,s 44 60 58 58
Extra Large
43 44 8/ •s 45 45 % 62 60 60
44 % 46 46 8/ ,s 47 64 62 62
Extra Extra Large
46% 48 48 •;,. 48'/a 66 64 64
#25 HIGHEST PART OF CHEST OR BUST
~e
Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Pius size
Extra Small
32 32 32 33 42 42 43
33 33 33 34 43 43 45
Small
34 34 34 35 44 44 47
35 35 35 36 45 45 49
Medium
36 % 36 1/2 36'12 37'12 46% 46 '12 51
38 38 38 39 48 48 53
Large
39 1/2 39 1/2 39'12 40 '12 49 % 49 1/ 2 55
41 41 41 42 51 51 57
Extra Large
43 42'12 42'12 43 1/2 52'12 52'12 59
45 44 44 45 54 54 61
48'/a 50
•• ••• •• •• •• ••
•• •• •• -• •
so•;,. 50 68 66 66
Extra Extra Large
32 32 32 33 42 42 43
••
~ ~ ~~
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
41
CHAPTER'}
#26 ARMHOLE DEPTH The armhole depth os not a direct body domens 1on, but is taken from the sloper draft Measure the distance from the shoulder straight down to the bottom of the armhole.
#26 ARMHOLE DEPTH Small
Extra Small Size Misses Petite Junior Misses tall Women's Half size Plus size
2
6 '/s 6% 6 7/s 7% 7% 6 7/s 7%
4
7 6% 7 7% 7 'Is 6% 6%
Medium
6
7 1/s 6 7/s 7 7 7/s 7% 6% 6%
8
7% 7 7 1/s 8 7% 6% 6%
10
7% 7 1/o 7% 8 1/s 7% 6 7/s 6%
12
7 '/s 7'1s 7% 8% 7 4/s 7 6 71s
Extra Large
Large 14
7% 7% 7 4/s 8% 7% 7 'Is 7
16
7% 7'1s 7% 8 4/s 7% 7% 7 1ls
18 7
7 1s 7 '/s 7 41s 8% 7 7ls 7 21s 7 'Is
Extra Extra Large
20
22
24
8 7% 8 7ls 8% 7 7ls 7% 7'1s
8 11s 7% 8'1s 8% 8 7'1• 7%
8% 7 71s 8'1s 8 7ls 8 '1s 7% 7'1•
'HAI'l ~ R 2
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
Cup Sizes Cup size is determined by t he difference between the measurement and the upper bust measurement. This cbust shows different bust measurements, but all upper chest hal'( surements are 36" for illustration purposes only. mea.
#27 CUP SIZE If the upper chest 1s 36' Bust Upper chest Difference Difference Cup size
3611> 36'
37 36'
112
Up to 11> AA
'~h"to
1 1-4
A
38 36" 2 11/> to 2V.. B
39 36" 3 2W' to 3\1.1
c
40
41
36" 4 4\1.1 D
36" 5 5\1.1 DD/E
#28 CUP RADIUS Est1mate the diameter of the breast. Extra Extra Small Stable Moderate Stretchy Super Rib
Extra Small
Small
2V.. 214
2 1 /s 2' 2
2'1•
1 /'o
2
1%
2% 2% 214 2 'I•
1'/•
1 '/•
.• ... •
I
42 36" 6 6V.. DDD/F
•• --------.. •• •• •• ••• •• •• •• •• •
~ 45
36"
7 7'14
G
8 8'14 H
9 9Y. I
Medium
Large
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
2Y2
2% 2%
2 '% 2'% 2%
2 7/s 2 7/o
2Y2
2% 2%
2¥2 2% 2'14 2
2Y2 2% 2 1/o
2'14
2~
SIZING AND MEASUREMENTS
49
C HAPTER 2
H_ow to Determine Your Own S1ze Range The ·s to fidrst t step. in sta r t"m g your own label or your own company ' . e e rmme .vour s·tze range an d stze . specs. There arc two btastc · r · h ways . · t o get siz·mg tntormattOn. One is to buy it a nd the 0 f er IS to design it yourself, usually by reverse en~ineeri ng o your competitor·s products. · POPULATION MEASUREMENTS May be obtained from the American Bureau of Sta ndards a nd Measurements, which lists measurements based on age groups, and is updated every November.
Purchased measurements
IndiVidual
Populat1on measurements
\
measurements
St atistical analysis
I
t
Standard measurements
http://www.astm.org INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENTS Individua l measurements of sample customer s or fit models ' a nd dress-forms, should be t aken. STATISTICAL ANALYSIS Ana lyze t he measurements taken, along with those purchased , a nd compa re them to decide on the a ppropriate measureme nts for you target market. Create grade tables based on your ana lysis.
SLOPERS Develop a measurement chart for your company, or use one of the measureme nt charts provided in this text, before creating your company's slopers.
PRODUCTION PATTERNS Production patterns should be drafted to the company size specs. Often, designer samples are created in model's proportions, for showroom sales and fashion shows. These measurements do not fit the average consumer and should be corrected for production patterns. This is the responsibility of the spec technician.
COMPETITORS You can purchase garments from your competitors and take the measurements directly from the garment.
Production Patterns
•• •• • ,
.
l,c;
2 H5
Jilt'
''
"116
•• •• •• •• •• •• •• ••
~/v
:...vJ}
'h·
'!J,
•;_, '11> •;,2 •;32
•;,.
lO!Jl
•;,.
12/32
"13>
'•
'l•s
13 /32 14 /32
'sl32
••
•;,. •;,.
'"132 17 132 18 132
10 /16
20132
n;,s
22132
19132
'•
21 132
23 132
%
12;,.
24132
";,.
25 132 26132
";,.
28132
15/16
30132
•s;,e
32132
27132 7 /e
29132
%
31 132
Test Your Knowledge of the Material in This Chapter 1. Why don't clothes from one manufac-
2. 3. 4. 5.
turer fit the same as from another manufacturer? What are the "true sizings" or industry guidelines for sizing garments? What type of customers are Junior sizes intended for? What type of customers are Plus sizes intended for? What is vanity sizing?
6. What is catalogue sizin~? ween 7. How much is the bust difference bet
~~Wmd~~~~
-
8. How much is the bust difference betw een size 10 and size 8? 9. How much is the bust difference betw Small and Medium? ween 10. How much is the bust difference bet Medium and Large?
SIZIN G AND MEASUREMENTS
51
C HAPT[R 2
Exercise #2 t'rt'Hit' a person a l meas ureme nt ch art w ith th e associated reductions , for fu tu re draft s.
-
Personal M easurement
#
Divide by
Multiply By
1
Bust
2
Wa1st
Stable knits
0% .100
4 4
Moderate kn it s
2% ·.98
SuperSt retchy stret c h knits knits 3.5% 5°/o r--
·.965
--
3
Hip
4
Crotch depth
N/A
No length reduction
5
Waist to knee
N/A
No length reduc tion
6
Waist to ankle
N/A
No length reduction
7
Ankle
8
Knee
9
Front crotch
One quarter of hip measurement
10
Back c rotch
One -third of hip measurement
11
C rotch angle
One half of front crotc h extension
12
Nape to w a1st
13
Bac k nec k
From size c hart closest to your size
N/A
14
Back neck rise
From size chart closest to your size
N/A
15
Shoulder
16
Across back
17
Sleeve length
18
Shoulder pitch
19
Bicep
20
Wrist
21
Neck
22
Bust sp an
23
Bust level
24
Hip depth
25
Upper b ust
4
4 4
N/A
N/A
2 N/A From an appropriate c hart
N/A
No reduction
·.95
10%
Two- & Four-way knits 5% both directions
.90
·.o9
Rib knits
CHAPTER
3
Principles of Pattern-Drafting About This Chapter ~his chapter introduces the reader to the principles and prac~Jces of s~retch patternmaking. While previous patternmak-
mg expenence w1ll help in understanding these concepts, the ?ccaswnal, or new, pattern maker will greatly benefit from seemg how ~tretch patternmaking differs from conventional patternmakmg. In many ways, stretch patternmaking is simpler.
Flat Patternmaking Flat patternmaking is the process of creating templates used to cut out the final garments. Patternmaking is the process of creating a two-dimensional template for a three-dimensional garment, by tracing out the sloper on a blank sheet of paper, then manipulating by slash and spread and adding garment details to create a final pattern.
Sloper A sloper is a template of basic styles, without any seam allowances or style details. Many different patterns can be made from a single sloper. Because a sloper is your master pattern, it should not be changed or altered unless you wish to make those same alterations to all future styles. Slopers should be traced out on lightweight drafting paper, and then changed into the style that you wish to create.
Patterns A pattern is an outline, or a template, of the intended style that is used when cutting out the fabric. All patterns should include seam allowances to allow the pieces to be sewn together; notches to help match seams together; a gr~inline a~d any necessary drill holes; plus all necessary labehng and mstructions. All final patterns should be made of oa.k-tag, ~nd all drafts and working patterns should be made ofhghtwe1ght drafting paper. There are tv.:o methods of creating patterns: flat patternmaking and drapmg.
53
F PATTERN - D RA
FTI N G
PR INC IPLES O
('
How Patterns Are Used t ·'., ,..1 rmEmt.f EvPattern;; are used t 0 cut ou reo-ardless o t1te da pattern. er" .,.3 rment nee ~ ·-"' ;,
~g~:
39 %
40 ;·
8 'Ia
14 '1a 2 ''a
2'1a
32 1•
3 'f•
2 'a
1 15'1a 2% >;.
1 1la 16 % 2 112
1 '1• 16 % 2 '12
'Ia
5'1•
5% 7% 23 'Ia 1 '12 11 'Is 6% 14 % 6% 10
'Ia 6 '1•
7 22 'Ia 1% 10% 5 31· 1 14 1a 1 6 12 7
9 1a
7% 23 % 1 '12 11 71a
7'17 14 % 7
10 '1•
~
8 Ia
14 % 2% 3 '12 'I 1 4 17 % 2 '12 'Ia
6% 7% 23 % 1 '12 12 % 7% 14 71s 7% 10 '12
9 ~ ~~ 45 ';,
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
23
Bust Wa1st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back c rotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitc h Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction No reduction No reduction
X .95
1~
17 7; 8 2% 7; 8
8
23 7/o 1% 13% 8'1. 15 10 3/,
.95 .95 X .95 X .95 X X
No reduction No reduction X
.95
No reduction X
.95
No reduction
.95 .95 .95 .95 X .95 X X X X
No reduction
Medium
Large
Extra Large
10
14
18
30 71a 23 %
32% 25'/a 35% 10 % 23%
35'1s 27 112 38 10 % 23 % 39 '/. 8 13% 2%
38 30% 40 71a 10 71s
2 '1a 2 31· 1 7
15 1s 2%
'!. 5'1· 7
22 % 1% 10 '1• 5% 13 71a 6% 9%
7% 13 % 2'1•
3 1 '1a 16% 2'12 'Ia
5% 7% 23 11a 1% 11 6 '1·
14
6% 9 7/a
3'1a
1 '1· 16 71s 2'12 7 la 6'1•
7% 23 % 1 '12 11 % 7
14'1• 6 71e 10
la
41 % 33 3/• 44 1/a 11 '/s 24 '/s 40 3/• 8% 14 7/a 2 3/• 3% 1% 17 '1s 2% 7 /s
6%
7'1•
7 71e 23% 1 112 12% 731· 14'12 7'1• 10 11,
8 23 7'8 1 112 13 8 3!1 14 3/•
23 71a
40 '1•
8 '!. 14 % 2'12 3% 1% 17 % 2'12 7
•
•
W • •
•
• • •
7 7/a
6
39 '1•
•
7';,
Small
7 '12 13
•
•
15 1; 2' '8 3;;.
2
10 '1s 23'1s 38'/.
•
40 ';, 8';8
Extra Small
33 %
•
•
MISSES SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
~
~:~
F1ve percent smaller on crossw1se d~rection without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%. Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the s houlder measurement, because the final garment will have tw~e to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by
•
7'.4 10'fi
•
•• •• •• ••
•• ••
•• •
SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
79
CHAPTER 4
MISSES RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS Tel"' perce-nt sma le• •n cross Use these measurements w;~~~~~~t•on \\ •thout any reduct•ons 1n le;othwtse d•rectton Mult•pl\ your across measurem t mg slopers for fabncs that stretch iOO% and over ·
men!"'" have II\ 111 tape to stab~~es•~l 0 90 10% smaller e'cept for the shoulder measurement. because the f1nal gar- ~ e seam and pre\ ent •t from stretchmg Multiply by Extra Large Large M edtum Extra Small Small 2
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Wa•st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Wa•st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa•st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p•tch B•cep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust level
)( .90 ;., 90 .90 No reduct1on No reduct•on No reduct•on
.90 90 ' 90 X 90 " .90 X
X
No reduct•on No reduct1on
.90 No reduct1on
.90 No reduct1on
v )(
X
.90 .90 .90 .90 .90
No reduct1on
22 32 10'. 23 • 38'. 7 12'. 2 2'• 1 15'/o 2 11o
33 •
31
18
14
10
6
29 1 •
39 11e
36
32 41 ,,
28 31•
23 e
26' 16
33 3
36
38 -\',.
10 !'>18
10
23')18
23'/a
..
10 23 '• 39 .•
39 31•
11
11\
40
7 •
7 11'1
1• 7'Jtl,
12 Jr•
13 1/a 2 114
13'1e 2'1•
2'1•
2-/, 1 16%
11 8
24 •;, 40 31·
1
8
14 2% 3'/.,
3 1/4
1 114
1 1 /o~
2''?
3 1 'Ia 16 7lo 2'12
17 % 2'12
'lo
5'/..
5'1•
'I• 6 '1•
17 7 /o 2% 'I•
6 31•
7
7 22 71s 1 'I• 9%
7% 23 'I• 1% 10 % 6 13% 6 '1• 9%
'I•
5 '1• 13 'I• 6
9'1•
r,
7% 23 % 1 31o 11 6% 13 '12 6 '12 9%
7 11o
1 /•
8
23% 1 3lo 11 31· 7% 13'/.
6'1• 9 '/.
23 '1• 1 '12 12% 8 14 7 •;. 10
MISSES FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~rection and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions. Multiply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions, except for the shoulder measurement, because the f.nal garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. Note that four-way stretch has memory and will return to the ong.nal shape; therefore, twill tape is not necessary to stabilize the shoulders. Extra Large Large Medium Small Extra Small Multiply by
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Wa1st Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
.90 X .90 J( .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 x .90 X .90
J(
No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction
X .90 X .90 No reduction
X .90 X .90
2
6
10
14
18
29 '1• 22 32
30 '1•
31 23 '1• 33 31• 9% 22'1•
32 24 314 34 % 9'h 22 % 37'12 7% 13
33'/• 26'1s 36 9% 22'12 37 3/• 7'12 13 '1• 2'1• 3 '13 1 'Is 16 2'12
9 '1• 20 '1• 34 '1• 7 12 '1• 2 3 1 14 'I• 2%
"Is 5 '1• 7 22 '1• 1 '1• 9% 5 '/s 14% 6
9 '1•
23 32 '1•
9 '1• 22 37
37'1•
7 '1• 12 •;, 2 3 1 15 % 2 •;,
'I• 5'12 7 '1s 23 1 '12 10 5% 14 'Is
6 '1• 9'1•
7% 12% 2 'I• 3 '1• 1 15 •;, 2 •;,
'I•
5 31• 7% 23 '1• 1 '12 10% 6 14 71s 6 '1•
9'1•
2'1• 3 '1• 1 15 31· 2'/2
'I• 6
7'1• 23'1• 1 '12 10'1s 6% 15 6% 10
'I•
6 '/• 7% 23 % 1 •;, 11 6% 15 6 'h 10
,.,.
I
~0
\'HAf'HR 4
SLO PERS AN D R
rou c TIONS
- -...______,_
NS JUNIOR SIZE REDUCTIO
thWISe direction. - jan~ reduct1ons 1n ~e~r~m O% to 25%. se dorectlon "l!hOU tabncs that stretc
-t"'"O pe..cen! smalle' .n crosS\'\ I d
ft•na sfopers for
~se ~hese measurements v. h~~ ::recOrded '"'thout any
Use your measurements exac \
-
.
-
Multiply your across
Extra small
measurements by -
1 2 3
Bust Watst Htp Crotch depth 4 5 Watst to knee 6 Watst to anlde 7 Ankle 8 Knee 9 Front crotch 10 Back crotch 11 Crotch angle 12 Naoe to watst 13 Sac• neck Back neck nse ·~ 15 Shoulder iength 16 Across back 17 Sleeve length 18 Snouloer pttch 19 Steep 20 Wnst 21 Neck 22 Bust span 23 Bust level
32 25 35 10 •., 22 1A 38 1 1 7 •• 13 51 8 2''"' 3 1 15% 2%
0 for stable kmts 0 for stable kmts 0 tor stable knitS No reduct ton No reduction No reduct1on 0 tor stable kmts 0 for stable kntts o tor stable kntts o tor stable kntts o tor stable kntts No reduct ton No reductton o for stable kmts No reductton o for stable kn1ts No reductton 0 for stable knits 0 for stable kntts 0 for stable kntts 0 tor stable knits 0 for stable knits No reduction
Small
-2
3;,
4 Ia 7 'I• 23% 1% 10 3/• 5 7/a 14 % 6% 9 7/s
6
34 27 37 10 '? 23 'Ia 38 3/• 8 3 1a 14 1/a 2% 3 1 '/a 15 7/a 2% 7 /a 5 7% 23 % 1 '/a 11 112 6 1/a 15 '/• 6 7/s 10 %
Medium
10 ---36 29 39 10 3/• 23 3/a 39 '/• 8 7/a 14 'Is 2'12 3'/• 1 '/• 16% 2% 1 5% 8 23 7/a 1 112 12 1/4 6% 15 7/a 7 10 7/a
,. ---- •• ••. ~
reduc tions
-
~
Large
14 39 32 42 11 23% 39 3/• 9% 15 1/a 2% 3 112 1% 16 7/a 2 7/a 1 5% 8% 24 '/a 1 112 13 6% 16 112 7% 11 %
Extra Lar
~ 18
----:;---35 45 11 1;, 23 7;, 40 1/, 9 ';, 15'1. 2';, 3';, 1';, 17'1. 3 ';, 1'/, 5';,
8% 24'1. 1% 13 3/. 6 7/a 17 7%
11 7/a
JUNIOR SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller tn crosswtse dtrection without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers tor fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%. Multtply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment w111 have twtll tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by
1 Bust 2 Wa1st 3 Htp 4 Crotch depth 5 Watst to knee 6 Waist to ankle 7
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
/ .98 /. .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction No reduction J( .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98
No reduction No reduction
X .98 No reduct ion
X .98 No reduction
X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction
Ext ra Small
Small
M e dium
L a rge
2
6
10
14
31 % 24 1/z 34 '/• 10 '/• 22 7/s 38 '/, 7 3/. 13 % 2'/s 2 7/s 1 15% 2%
33 % 26'12 36 '/• 10 1/2 23 1/s 38'1. 8'/• 13 7/s 2'1• 3 1 '/s 15 'Is 2%
35 1/4 28% 38'/ • 10 '1. 23% 39'/• 8 '1. 14 % 2% 3 1/s 1 1/s 16 % 2 '1. 1 5% 8 23 7/s 1 112 12
'!. 4'/s 7'1• 23% 1% 10'12
5 3;, 14 •;, 6 3/7
9%
'Is 5 7% 23 % 1% 11'/• 6 14 7/a
6% 10 1/a
6 '1• 15 '12
7 10%
1 / •
38 31 % 41 1/s 11 23% 39 '1.
9'1•
14 7/s 2% 3% 1 2/ 7 16 7/ s 2 7/s 1 5% 8% 24 1/a
1 '12 12'1.
Extra Large
18 41 '/s 34 '/• 44 1/s 11 '/• 23 7/s 40 '/• 9%
•• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •
15% 2 3/• 3 5:s
1!iS 17 3rs 3 1/2 1 •,,
5',,
as.• 24 3, , 1'1! 13'/z
16 '/e
6 3/• 16$/•
71fe 11 1/e
1~
6 '12
7$11
•• •• ••
•• •
••
81
SLOPERS AND REDUCTION S C HAPTER 4
JUNIOR SIZE STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS Three percent smaller tn crossw· Us 2% 'I• 5 7'12 21 112 1'1• 10 5 '1• 14 6 '11
31 23 71a 33 3/ • 10 20 51s 35 112 6 1-'4
32 24 3 ' 34 's 10 20 J· 3 35 •
1 2 11~
9 '/o
9 '14
12 • 2's 3 '. 1'• 15 2'• J' 5'• 7' ' 3 21 " 1% 1Q•,. 6 ':! 14 11• 6 '1•
% 4 'Ia
7 '1• 21 'I• 1% 9% 5 'I• 13 '/. 6 9
9·1· 5 '12 13 '1• 6 9
2 '/a 3 ' ·s 1 1.8
14 3 /, 2 ':• 'I• 5 7.,. 21 5 :a 1 J/8 10%
6 ''•
14 1/a 6 '1•
s ~~ 3
s•.-.
~t\
l'HAt'l tR 4
SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
Misses Tall Reductions MISSES TALL STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS
.
thwise d 1rection.
•• •• •• •• ~ • .• ••
Ml
--.....
h t any reduct1ons m leng 25o/c0 · ment because the final Zero percent smaller 1n crossw1se directiOn Wit ~u r fabrics that stretch from 0% to Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers ~mailer. except for the shoulder measure ' 9arll1ent 5 Multiply your across measurements by 0.9 5· % tit from stretching. Will have tw111 tape to stabiliZe the seam and preven Medium Large Extra La 11 Multiply by Extra Small s:a 10 14 ~ 2
1
2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Wa1st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust level
.95 X .95 .95 X
No reduct1on No reduct1on No reduct1on
95 .95 95 95 ... 95 No reduction No reduct1on
.95 No reduction
95 No reduct1on
.95 .95 )( .95 X .95 X .95 X X
No reduction
~~ > 35 '. 11 r, ~~ 4
~ ;: 13 ''• 2 ''• 3 1 'i• 16 ''• 2 '1s
'I•
4'18 7'12 24% 1'12 10 %
5 118 14 % 6 31· 10 31·
34 ''> 26' '> 37'/2 11 '12 24 ''• 41 % 8 'Is 14 'Is 2% 3 1ls 1 'I• 17 % 2 112 'Is 5 7% 24% 1% 11 % 6% 15 7 11
36'/2 28'/2 39'/2 11 31• 25'1• 41 'Is 8% 14 % 2'12 3 11• 1 'I• 17 7ls 2'12
% 5'1s 8 'Is 24 7ls 1% 12 1ls 7% 15 '1s 7 '1• 11 '1•
39'/2 31 '/2 42'12 12 25% 3/ 42 '" 8% 15 'I• 2% 3'12 1% 18% 2% 'Is 5% 8 '12 25 'Is 1% 12 '1s 8'1s 15 % 7% 11 '12
34 ';, 45 ';, 12'1• 25'1. 42 7; 8 8 7/a 15% 7 2 3/o 3 /, 1 'Ia 7 18 /a 2% 7 /a 5% 7 8 /a 25% 1'I• 13% 8'/a 15% 8 11 '/.
MISSES TALL MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller m crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that s tretc h from 25% to 50%. Mult1ply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shou lder measurement, because the final garment Will have tw111 tape to stabi11ze the seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by
1 2
3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22
23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bustspan Bust level
X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction No reduction
X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction
X .98 No reduction
X .98 No reduction
X .98 X .98 X .98
X.98 X.98
No reduction
Extra Small
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large
2
6
10
14
18
31 7ls 24 34 31· 11 'I• 24 % 40 71s
33 '/. 26 36'/. 11 '12 24 'Is 41%
35 '/. 28 38'/. 11 '/. 25 '1• 41 '1s
38 31· 30 7la 41% 12 25 %
41 s;. 33 '/• 44 % 12 '/• 25% 42 7/e
7'/. 13 % 2'1• 2 71s 1 16 71s 2'12
'I•
4 '1• 7 112
24% 1 '12 10% 5 31.
14%
6'1. 10'1.
8
8'!.
13'1• 2'1·
14%
42 % 8'12 14 7la
2%
3
2%
3'1•
1
1 'Ia
17 % 2'12
'I•
5
7'1. 24% 1'12 11 'Ia 6'12
14% 6 31· 10 31.
1'!. 17 718 2'12
'I•
5'1s 8 '1a 24 71a
1% 11% 7'1• 14 71a
7 11
3 12 1 'I• 18% 2% 7
la 5% 1 8 12
8 3/ • 15 3/e
2 3/• 3'/• 1%
18 7/e
2%
'I•
s%
25'1s
8'.4 25'.4
1% 12%
13 31t
8
15 118 7 318 11
v.
15.4
8 3/• 153.4
1~
,, tA
•• •
•• •• •• •• ••
•• ••
•• •• •• ••
3 4
11 1' 1 1
1
1
1
SLOPERS AND REDUC TI ONS
87
C HAPTER 4
MISSES TALL STRETCHY KN IT REDUCTIONS Three percent smaller in crosswise d' . . Use these measurements when d lrectlon Without any reductions 1n lengthwise direction. raftmg slopers for fabrics that stretch from 50% to 75% Multiply your across meas - h . urements by 0 97 3 o/c · WI11 ave tw111 tape to stabilize th · • o smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment e seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by Extra Small Small Extra Large Medium Large
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X X X
.97 .97 .97
No reduction No reduction No reduction X X X X X
.97 .97 .97 .97 .97
No reduction No reduction X
.97
No reduction X
.97
No reduction X X X X X
.97 .97 .97 .97 .97
No reduction
2
6
10
14
18
31 '12 23 '1. 34 % 11 '1· 24% 40 71e 7% 13 '14 2 '1• 2 71e 1 16 71e 2 '12 'I• 4 '1• 7 112 24% 1 '12 10 '/. 5 314 14 114 6 '12 10 %
33 '12 25 31· 36% 11 112 24 71• 41 % 7 71e 13 % 2 114 3 1 '1• 17 % 2 112 'Ia 5 7 314 24% 1 112 11 6% 14 '12 6 314 10 %
35% 27 % 38% 11 '!. 25 '1• 41 'Ia 8 '1• 14 'Ia 2% 3'14 1 '14 17 7le 2 112 'Ia 5 '1• 8'1• 24 71• 1% 11 314 7'1• 14'/. 7 10 71e
38% 30 '12 41'1• 12 25 % 42 % 8% 14 % 2% 3% 1 '14 18 % 2% 'Ia 5% 8'12 25'1• 1% 12'12 7 71• 15 7% 11
41 'I• 33'12 44 '1• 12 '1• 25% 42 718 8% 15 1le 2 314 3% 1% 18 7le 2% 'Ia 5% 8 71• 25 % 1% 13 114 8% 15 '/. 7 314 11 %
MISSES TALL SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%. Multi ply you r across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankl e An kle Knee Front crot ch Back cro tch C rotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large
Multiply by
Extra Small
2
6
10
14
18
X .95 X .95 X .95
30'1• 23'1• 33 31• 11 11• 24 % 40 '1a 7 '12 13 2 '1• 2 31· 1 16 71e 2 '12 'I• 4 71• 7'12 24 % 1 '12 10 5% 14 6% 10 1la
32 31· 25 '1• 35 % 11 112 24 7le 41% 7 314 13 % 2 114 3 1 'I• 17% 2'12 'I• 5 7 314 24% 1 112 10% 6 '1• 14'1• 6% 10%
34 % 27 37 '12 11 31· 25'1• 41 7le 8 13 71e 2% 3'1• 1 'Ia 17 71• 2 '12 'I• 5'1• 8 '1• 24 71• 1 '12 11 'h 7 14 %
37 112 30 40 % 12 25% 42 % 8 '1· 14% 2 '12 3% 1'1• 18 % 2% 'Ia 5% 8 '12 25'1• 1% 12'1• 7 •1· 14% 7 '/a 10 7/a
40 % 32 314 43'1• 12 '1• 25% 42 71• 8% 14 7le 2% 3% 1% 18 7le 2% 'Ia 5% 8 7lo 25% 1% 13 8% 14'/a 7 '1. 11 'Ia
No reduction No reduction No reduction
X X X X X
.95 .95 .95 .95 .95
No reduction No reduction
X .95 No reduction
X .95 No reduction
X .95 X .95 X .95 X ,g5 X ,g5 No reduction
e'la
10 %
ss
CHAPTER 4
,.
,
SLOPERS A ND REDU C TIONS
---
. directiOn . ~ reductions "' lengthwise Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se direction Wllho~t a~ybncs that stretch 100% and over. m en! because the f 1na1 Qar. Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers or a except for the shoulder m easure ' 11 Multtply your across measurements b\ 0.90. 10% sm~e~~· 11 from stretching. ment wtll have ""II tape to stabtli=e the seam and pre Medium Large Extra l~ Sma 11 ~rge E x t ra small Multiply by o 14 ~
MISSES TALL RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS
-----~===-------------~~--------~ 325% 2~~ 29 ~------;;~------~ •,, ~; •; ' .90 1 Bust 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9
10
,,
'2 13 '4
'5 '6 17 18
19 20 21 22 23
Watst H1p Crotch oepth Wa1st to ~nee Wa,st to ankle Ankle Knee F'o~t crotch Back crotch C•ot~r angle NaP 18%
53 7/e 46 56' s 23 3/• 3 24 3 •• 39 ·8
57's 50 60 3 ' 3 27 ' 25 39 •• 11 3 • 18 3 ' 4 3· 5 2'' 18 5 s 5 1 ~
8'!. 13
11 '·..
18 1 c 4 ,,,.
.,. J,,.
2 18 •
4',
1' z 6 93 s 24 ' . 2'• 16 3 • 914 19
a•··
13''•
Extra Large
s·.
9'e 24 •• 2' 17'• 10 19 3 .14 8'a 14
!>)
'
WOMEN 'S STRETCHY KN IT REDUCTIONS
-
reductoons on lengthwose dorec~~on. r>< rc : 5·n~loer on cross" ose dorectoon wothout any s that stretch from 50% to 75 o. t because the fonal a U~e these measure.,.,ents "hen draftong slopers for fabnc t tor the shoulder measuremen · 9 rrnent "% smaller excep b M ultopl) vour across measurement s >0 ·9 '·" t t ~m stretchonQ 1 \\Ill have tWill :ape :o staboloze tne seam and prevent r -Mediu m La rge Ext ra Larg ll Small- - ~ Multiply by Extra S ma 14 18 10 6
eo
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12
'3 14 '5 16
•7 '8
t9 20 21 22 23
--------9#
Bust Waost H•p Grote!"> depth Waost to kr>ee Wa•st to ar ·le Anke Knee Front crotch Back crot t> CrotM)ange Nape to wast Back 'leek
Back 'leek nse 5h0u der engtl' Ac OSS baCK Seeve eng:h ShOt. :Jer p •cr B:cep Wrst Neck au:• span Bustleve
-11
)( .97 ..... 97
3-l
No reductoon No reouctoon No reduct•on
97 97 97 97
.97 No reductoon 1\Jo reductoon
.97 No reduction
.97 No reductoon ~ ~
2
X
.91 .97 .97
97 97 No reductoon
-15 '
49 '
41''•
53 rs 45''• 56 •;,
49';, 60 •;,
52 'Ia
15 • 241.
19 '·· 241}
~~:I:
16 %
38 '• 10''• 17 tB 3 ;, 4 1'/ • 17 "• "
39'1• 10 % 18 3'·• 4% 1% 17 %
39% 11 % 18 1/, 4 ';. 5 2';, 18 %
3'A
4
39"·• 11 '/• 18 "4 4'/• 4 ';, 2 18 'Is 1
1 5% 8% 23 'Is 1 '12 14 7 16 % 7% 11 7/a
1% 5% 8 7/s 24 'Is 1% 14 % 7% 17 % 8 12'/•
1% 5 7/s 9 24 % 2 15'12 8% 18 1/a 8 '/• 12 3/ •
1 1/2 6 9% 24% 2'/• 16 '/• 9 18 7/a 8'/2 13 •; ,
1 1/, 6 '/s 9% 24 7/s 2';, 17
24
38 9' • '• 17'• 2' • 3 1 18. 3
4 12
~;'1•
5
9 7/s
19 % 8 3/. 13 %
WOMEN 'S SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS Fov< P' rosswtse dtrectton without any reductions in lengthw ise direc tion . Usethtlse "leas.;•emer.ts when drafttng slopers for fabrics that stretc h from 75% to 100%. Multoply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except to r th e shoulder meas ureme nt, because the final garment "'" ha~e twtll tape to stab~ze the seam and prevent tl from stretc hing. M ult tply by 1
:> 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12
13
14 15 16 17 18 19
20 21
22 23
Bust Waost Hop Crotch depth Watst to knee Watst to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to watst Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bocep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
95 .95 .95 No reductton No reductton No reductton
/ .95 X .95
X .95 X .95
X .95 No reduction No reduction
X .95 No reduction X .95 No reduction
X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction
------~~-----------------------------
Extra Sm a ll
Sma ll
Medium
2
6
10
14
18
40 7/a 33 '/• 43 3/. 11% 24 38 % 9 '12 17 '/• 2 3/, 3% 1% 16% 3
44 % 37 47 '12 15% 24 '1· 38 7/a 10 17'12 3 '/• 4 1 '!. 17 1/a 3 '12 1% 5% 8 7/a 24 1/a 1% 14'12 7 '12 17 7 7/e 12
48 1/2 40 7/a 51 '/• 19 % 24 '12 39 1/a 10 '12 17 % 3% 4 '1• 1% 17 % 4 1% 5 7/a 9 24 % 2 15'; ,
52 '!. 44 % 55 23 % 24 % 39 % 11 18 4 1/a 4% 1 7/e 18 1/e 4 1/2 1 '12
56 48 '12 58 7/a 27 3/• 25 39% 11 % 18 '/a 4%
1
5% 8% 23'1.
1';, 13 3; .
6 3;. 16% 7% 11 %
a•;,
17 3; ,
8 12'12
Large
6 9% 24 %
2'/e 16
9 18'12 8% 13
.. ••
57;---- ~
~~ 1 •
i~;:
... •• •• • I
HAPTI R 4 SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
Extra Large
5 2 '/• 18%
5 1'h 6 1/a 9% 24 7/•
2% 16% 9% 19 1/e
8 '/r 13'/r
•
SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
91
CHAPTER 4
WOMEN 'S RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller in crosswise d. . . Use these measurements when d 1 ~Gtlon Without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Multiply your across measureme ~a lng slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% and over. ment will have twill tape to stab/ s ~Y 0.90, 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final gar1 IZe I e seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by Extra Small Extra Large Large Medium Small
I I I I I
•
~ ~
~
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .90 X .90 X .90
No reduction No reduction No reduction X X X X X
.90 .90 .90 .90 .90
No reduction No reduction X .90
No reduction X .90
No reduction X X X X X
.90 .90 .90 .90 .90
No reduction
2
6
10
14
18
38% 31 '12 41 % 11 % 24 38% 9 16% 2% 3 '12 1 '/• 16 % 3 1 5% 8% 23 7/a 1% 13 6% 15 112 7'/. 11
42'/• 35'/a 45 15 31· 24 '/• 38'1a 9 '/z 16 '12 3 3% 1 1/a 17 1/a 3'12 1% 5>;, 8 7/a 24 1/a 1% 13% 7 16 1/a 7% 11 %
45 'Ia 38 3/ • 48% 19 3/• 24 112 39'/• 10 16 3/• 3 112 4 1 112 17% 4 1% 5 7/a 9 24 % 1 7/a 14 % 7% 16 7/a 7% 11 7/a
49'12 42 '/• 52'/• 23 3/• 24 3/· 39% 10 % 17 4 4% 1 3/• 18 1/a 4 •;, 1 112 6 9% 24 % 2 15 8 '12 17 112 7 7/a 12 %
53'/a 45 7/a ss >;, 27 3/• 25 39 % 10 3/• 17'/• 4% 4% 2 18% 5 1 112 6'1• 9% 24 7/a 2'/• 15 3/• 9 1/a 18'/a 8 12 3/•
WOMEN'S FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction . Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions. Multiply your measurements by 0 .90, 10% smaller, in both directions. Multiply by
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X X X X X X X X X X X X
.90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90
No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction
x.90 X .90 No reduction
X .90 X .90
Extra Small
Small
Medium
Large
2
6
10
14
18
38>;, 31 1/2 41 % 11 1/e 22 3/• 36% 9 16% 2% 3 '1a 1 '12 15% 3 1 5% 8% 23 'Ia 1'/z 13 6% 17 '/•
40'12 33'/• 43'1• 13 23 36 7/a 9 '1• 16% 2 7/a 4 1 117 16 3 1/4 1% 5% 8 3/• 24 1% 13%
42 '1• 35'1• 45 15 23 37 9'12 16'12 3 4 1/a 1% 16 '/. 3 1/z 1% 5 >;, 8 7/a 24 1/a 1 13 3/• 7 18 7'/o
44 1/a 36'1a 46 % 16 7/a 23 1/a 37 9% 16 % 3 1/4 4% 1 '/z 16 1/z 3% 1% 5 7/a 9 24 '/• 2 14 7 '/o 18% 7'/a 12t/o
45 7/a 38% 48 % 18 3/4 23'1• 37 1/a 10 16% 3 '12 4 '/z 1% 16 % 4 1% 5 7/a 9 24% 2 14%
7'1• 11%
6 3/• 1
17 /a 7% 11 7/o
'I•
1~
Extra Large
7 '1•
183/• 7'A
12'h
!l~
l'liAI'Tl.R 4
SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
•
~:
Plus Size Reductions
~P~L~U~S~S~T~A~B~L~E~K~N~JT~R~E~D~U~C~T~JO~N~S~t:;~~Ztk·~~-~~e~n~g~th~w~is~e~d~ir~e~ct~io~n~.------------
II II
~U~s~e~th~e~s~e;m~e~a~su~r;em;;en~t~s~w~h~e~n~d~ra~ft~in~g~s~lo~~~e~rs~th~~~u~t~an~y~r~e~d~uc~t=io=n=s~-~========~========~4 ~X~=== x 3X 2
II
~ . · · without any reductions 'n o% to 25%. Zero percent smaller in crossw1se direction f r fabrics that stretch from ~se your measurements exactly as recorde
WI
Multiply by
1 X
20
~ II
24
28
41 52 19 % 24 '12 40 'Is 10 % 5 18 3Is 3 31·
45 56 23 % 24 % 40% 11 '1• 18 7le ' 44 51e 14
1% 16 'I• 3% 1% 5% 8 'I•
23
-=====================~;;======--~~1~6------~~------~;-------~~---~ 49 53 57~
-
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch Bicep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust level
X X X
O
0 0
No reduction No reduction No reduct1on
0 x o x 0 X 0 X 0 X
No reduction No reduction x 0 No reduct1on
Nore~~ction ~~ X X
x
0 0 0
No reduction
41 33
~~%
24 39 % 9% 18 '1• 2 31• 3% 1 17 2 '/. 1 5'12 % 8 32'1• 1 '12 13% 6% 16% 7% 11 7le
~i
48 15% 24 'I• 39 'Is 10 " 8 ' 18% 3"• ,. 4
1'1• 15 % 3% 1% 5% 8% 32% 1% 14 '12 7 112 17 112 8 12 %
4 Is
32% 2 15 '/.
8'1• 1
18 14 8 'I• 12 'Is
16 I· 4 'I• 1%
5'1•
9 'Is 3 2 :'• 2 I• 16 9 19 8 '12 13 %
.
49
•
27 'l 2S '
11
6Q
II
40't, 11 ,1• 19 't, 4'/,
11 .
II
5
2'/, 11';, 4,1, 1';, 6 9';, 33';.
2'h
16';. 93;.
19'/, 3
8 1, 13'1•
PLUS MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS
•
•
••
• •• •.. • • •• •• •• •
Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%. Multiply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurem ent, because the final garmerl • will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
23
Bust Wa1st Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .98 X .98
X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction
X .98 No reduction
X .98 No reduction
X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction
1X
2X
16
20
40 1le 32% 43 '1e
44 '1s 36'1• 47 15 % 24 114 39 71s 10
11 % 24 39 % 9%
17 % 2% 3% 1 17 2% 1 5'12 8% 32'1s 1 112 13 112 6% 16% 7% 11 %
18 3 11s 4 1 '1. 15%
3 '!. 1% 5% 8%
32% 1 31. 14 115 7% 17 11s 7 11a 12 11s
3X
4X
24
28
48
52
40'1a
44'/e 54 7/s 23% 24 % 40%
51 19 % 24 112 40 11s 10%
18 1/ . 3% 4 '1• 1% 16 '/• 3% 1% 5% 8 7/s 32 % 2 15 8 17 7/a 8 12 %
11 18 1/2
4 1/s 4% 2
16% 4 1/• 1% 5 7/s 9 1/s 32 7/s
2 '/• 15%
8 7/a 18 %
8% 13 1/a
sx 32
55'/• 48
58 3/l 27 % 25 40'/1 11 '/s 183/• 45/s
5
2"•
17'1• 4'/•
1'h 6
g'i•
33'"
2'/1 16'"
g'ft
19'.4
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II
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SLOPERS AND REDU C TION S
93
CHAPTER~
PLUS STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS '""•ee percent smaller rn crosswr
Use these measurements wh se drrectron wrthout any reductrons in lengthwrse drrectron. Multrply your across meas en draftrng slopers for fabrrcs that stretch from 50% to 75%. '"II have twill tape to stabi~;e~ents by 0.97, 3% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement. because the frnal garment e e seam and prevent rt from stretchrng. _ Multiply by 1X sx 2X 3X 4X
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Warst Hip Crotch depth Wars! to knee Wars! to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back c rotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rrse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrrst Neck Bust span Bust level
X X
.97 .97 .97
No reduction No reductron No reductron
.97 .97 ".97 X .97 X .97 X X
No reduction No reduction X
.97
16
20
24
39 32 42 5 • 11 24 ' 39 te 9 to 17 2 5/e 3 'h 1 17
43 '. 35 • 46 '. 15 • 24 .• 39 '• 9 ,. 17 1'• 3 /8
47' z
2 31..
1
No reductron
5 1r2
X .97
8% 32 1/e 1 '/z 13% 6'/, 16 1/• 7'/, 11 1/z
No reduction
X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction
3 'ro 1 'r,.
15 3/• 3'/• 1% 5% 8% 32% 1'/. 14 7'/• 17 7 3/4 12
39 3/.t 50 '1,
19% 24 ,,, 40'/• 10'/• 18 3% 4 '/• 1% 16 '/• 3% 1% 5 3/• 8 7/e 32 % 2 14 3/• 8 17 '/. 8 12 1/z
28 51 3/o 43 % 54 '13 23% 24 3/• 40% 10 3/• 18 1/• 4 •;, 4 •;, 2 16 3/• 4 '/• 1 3/e 5'/• 9'/e 32 7/e 2'/• 15 1/z 8 3/• 18% 8 '/• 13
32 55';• 47 1
'?
58'1• 27% 25 40 % 11 •;, 18 'h 4% 4 7/e 2'/• 17'/• 43/. 1 'h 6 9 3/e 33 1/e 2 1h 16 •;, 9 •;, 19 1/s 8 •;, 13 •;,
PLUS SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%. Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction No reduction No reduction
X X X X X
.95 .95 .95 .95 .95
No reduction No reduction
X .95 No reduction
X .95 No reduction
X X X X X
.95 .95 .95 .95 .95
No reduction
5X
1X
2X
3X
4X
2
6
10
14
18
39 31% 41 % 11 % 24 39 % 9 1/s 17 1/• 2% 3'/z 1 17 2 3/• 1 5'12 8% 32 1/e 1 '12 13 6% 16 7% 11 1/•
42 % 35 'Ia 45 % 15% 24'/• 39 7/s 9% 17 112 3 3 '/• 1 '/• 15% 3 '/• 1% 5% 8% 32% 1% 13 % 7 1/a 16% 7% 11 3/•
46 112 39 49 % 19 % 24 1/z 40 1/s 10 17 3/. 3% 4 '/• 1 112 16 '/• 3% 1% 5% 8 7/s 32 % 2 14 112 7 7/a 17% 7 7/s 12 1/•
50% 42'1· 53 1/• 23% 24% 40 % 10% 18 4 4% 1 7/s 16 % 4 '/• 1% 5 '1e 9 1/s 32 7/s 2 1/e 15 1/s 8 112 18 8 12 3/.
54 1/s 46 4/s 57 27 % 25 40 % 11 18 1/s 4 1/z 4% 2 1/s 17 '/• 4% 1 '12 6 9% 33 1/s 2% 16 9'/• 18% 8% 13 1/e
~4
'HAPlER 4
SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
PLUS RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS
_
-----
---
too;;;in lengthwise direction. tch 1oo% and over. th U5e these meas~rements "hen draft•ng slopers for fabrics tha s ~e the shoulder measurement, because e f•nal 9ar. _ Mult1pl) }Our across measurements by 0.90. 10% smalle~, ~~~~;~~s~~tchlng . X 4X ment Will have tw1!1 tape to stab• ·ze the seam and preven (
No reductoon No reduction No reduction
> 1% 14 '1• 7% 17'1•
7 118
11 %
4 '1• 1 '12 16 '12 3 '/. 1% 5 '!. 8 '1e 22 '!. 1 71e 15 8 17 7le 8 12'1•
5 1lo 9 '1•
23
2 '1• 15 % 8 71• 18% 8% 12%
27 '1• 23 % 38 '1• 11 % 17 '1• 4% 5 2 'I• 17 '12 4 '!. 1 '12 6 9%
23'1· 2% 16% 9'12 19 % 8% 13 1 1e
HAPTER 4
SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS
HALF SIZE STRETCHY KNIT REDUCTIONS
.
.
---......._
. d l ions in lengthwise d~rect1on. hree percent smaller in crosswise direction w11hout any re uc h from 50% to 75% 1 shoulder measur~ment, because the final 9arrn Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that~1ret~ Multiply your across measurements by 0.97, 3% smaller, except or e ent Will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretchong. . L E~ Small Med1um arg e xtra Lar Multiply by Extra Small ~ 18 '12 22 '12 26 '12 30 ';, 14 '12 T
1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wnst Neck Bus I span Bust level
.97 .97 .97 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction No reduction X .97 No reduction X .97 No reduction X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 No red uction X X X
39 31•
31 'I• 42 % 11 'Ia
22 '1s
37 '1• 9 '1s
16 31• 2% 3 '1• 1% 15 '12
2'/. 1
5 '12
43 % 35% 46 '12 15 'Ia 22 % 37 '12 9 71a 17 3 'Ia 3 71a 1 'I•
16 3 '1• 1% 5%
47 '12 39 '1a
50'12
23 '1• 23 '1•
37 31•
38
10 '1•
10 31·
17 '1• 3%
17 '12 4 'Is 4 '12 1 'Is
4 'I• 1 '12
16 '12
3'/. 1%
5'/.
8%
8 '1•
22 '1• 1% 13 % 6 '12 16'1• 7 '12
22 '12
22 % 1 71s
1% 14 7%
17 7% 11 112
51 % 43 'Is 54 %
19 '1• 22 71•
8%
11
.,..,. ••
I
14 % 8 17% 8
17 4 'I•
1% 5 71• 9 '1•
23 2'1a 15 •;,
8% 18 317
8'1• 12 •;,
12
• •
55';, 47 58';,
27 ';, 23 '1.
38 ';, 11 ';, 17 3; ,
4'1. 4';,
2'!• 17 ';,
4'!. 1 ';, 6 9 '1. 23 '/, 2'1.
16'/.
9';, 19 '/a
B'h 13
HALF SIZE SUPER-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%. Multiply your across measurements by 0.95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, because the final garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by Bust 2 Waist 3 Hip 4 Crotch depth 5 Waist to knee 6 Waist to ankle 7 Ankle 8 Knee 9 Front crotch 10 Back crotch 11 Crotch ang le 12 Nape to waist 13 Back neck 14 Back neck rise 15 Shoulder length 16 Across back 17 Sleeve length 18 Shoulder pitch 19 Bicep 20 Wrist 21 Neck 22 Bust span 23 Bust level 1
.95 X .95 X .95 X
No reduction No reduction No reduction
X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction No reduction
X .95 No reduction
X .95 No reduction
X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X
.95
No reduction
Extra Small
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large
14 'h
18'12
22'h
26'h
30'h
39 30 % 41 % 11 'Ia
42 % 34 %
22 %
37%
9'1a
45 %
15 'I• 22 % 37'/,
9%
16% 2% 3 '/, 1 'I• 15 '1, 2% 1
3% 1 'I• 16
5';, 8%
5% 8%
22'1• 1% 13 6%
16 7% 10 31,
16 %
3
3 'I• 1%
22'h 1% 13 % 7 'Ia 16% 7% 11 'I•
46 ';, 38 112
49 % 19 'Ia 22 %
37% 10 16 71a 3% 4'1a
50 % 42 '1• 53 '/. 23 '1a 23 'Ia 38 10 % 17 4
4%
1 •;, 16 •;,
1 71a 17
3%
4 '/•
1% 5% B71a 22% 1 71a 14 •;, 7 71a
17% 7
7 1a 11 %
1 3/7
5 1ta
9 'ia 23 2 15'/ •
a•;,
18
8 12'/•
1
54 /s 46 57 27 '•• 23% 38'1•
11 17% 4' 2
4'·'
2' 'a 17 '12 4'1• 1''; 6 g 'ts 23'/•
2 11• 16
9'•
18 1/• 8'.4 12'.4
'
•• •. •• •• ••
•• •• •• •• ••
•• •• •
.•
••
SLOPERS AND RED UCTIONS
97
CHAPTER 4
HALF SIZE RIB KNIT REDUCTIONS lt>n percent smaller m cross . . U th Wise d•rect•on w1th . - -.. se. ese measurements when d ft out any reduct•ons m lengthw1se d~rection Multiply your across measureme ~a ~ng slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% and over . 0 ment will have twill tape to stabili~esthy ·90· 10% smaller, except for the shoulder rnea~urement , because the final gare seam and prevent 11 from stretc hing. Multiply by Extra Small Small Extra Lar ge Medium Large
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Wa1st Hip Cro tch depth Waist to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Should er pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust sp an Bust level
)( .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction No reduction No reduction
X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90
X .90 No reduction No reduction
X .90 No reduction
X .90 No reduction
X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction
14 '12
18 '12
22 112
26'12
30'12
36 '·· 29 ''• 39 ''• 11 ''• 22 % 37 '/• 8% 15 '12 2 '/, 3 1/4 1 '/• 15 '12 2% 1 5 '12 8 '1s 22'/• 1 '/• 12'/s 6 15 7 10 '/•
40 ' ' 32 '• 43 ' 4 15 1/a 22 % 37 'h 9'1• 15 3/ 4 3 3% 1 117 16 3 '/• 1 '1s 5% 8% 22'12 1 112 13 6% 15% 7 '1• 10%
44 '/s 36 'h 46'1· 19 1/a 22 7/a 37 3/4 9 '/, 16 3 '1s 3 '/• 1'1s 16 '12 3% 1'1s 5 '/• 8 7/a 22 % 1% 13 3/ 4 7 '1s 16'/s 7'1s 11 1/s
47 '1· 40 50% 23 1/s 23'/s 38 10 16 '/• 3 7/s 4 '1• 1 3/ • 17 4 '1• 1'1s 5 7/s 9 1/s 23 2 14'/s 8 17'/• 7% 11 %
51 '/• 43 'Is 54 27 1/s 23 3/a 38 '/• 10 '12 16 % 4 '1• 4'h 2 17'12 4 3/ 4 1 •;, 6 9 '1s 23'/• 2'/• 15 8 3/• 17 3/4 7 7/a 12
HALF SIZE FOUR-WAY-STRETCH KNIT REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions. Multiply your measurements by 0.90, 10% smaller, in both directions. Multiply by
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Bac k crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck ri se Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X X x X X X X X X X X X
.90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90 .90
No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction
X .90 X .90 No reduction
X .90 X .90
Extra Small
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Larg e
14 112
18 '12
22 112
26'12
30'12
38% 31 41 'Is 12 '12 21 % 35 '12 8 7/a 15 % 2% 3 7/s 1 15 3 1% 5% 8 'h 22% 1 'h 12 3/• 6% 17 1/a 7 11
40 '12 32 7/s 43 % 14 % 21 '12 35 % 9 1/s 15 3/• 3 4 1 '/• 15 '/• 3 '1• 1% 5% 8% 22 'h 1% 13 6% 17 1h 7'1• 11'/•
42'1• 34 % 45 16 '/• 21 'Ia 35% 9% 15 'Ia 3 '/, 4 1/a 1% 15 '12 3'h 1% 5% 8 '/. 22% 1% 13% 7 17 '1a 7 '13 11 112
44 1/a 36 '12 46 % 18 1/a 21 % 35 7/a 9% 16 3% 4% 1% 15% 3% 1% 5'1• 8 7/s 22 % 2 13 3/• 7% 18 '/• 7% 11 %
7
36 /s, 29 '1• 39 % 10 % 21 1/4 35 % 8% 15 '12 2 112 3% 1% 14 % 2% 1 5 1h 8% 22 '1• 1% 12 % 6 16 3/• 7 10%
~
GH the wa•st 1s folded down
Label the wa1st with the fimshed elastic measurement. There are many different ways to sew the elastic, each w1th different seam amounts, so 1t is always preferable to indicate the fin1shed, or after sewn, measurement. If the manufacturer's particular equ1pment requires a larger or smaller seam allowance, inform the sewer what length of elastic you wish after the waist is sewn. Follow the same procedures for unfitted and semi-fitted waists. The elastic measurement remains the same for all three waist styles. The customer did not get any larger; she is simply wearing a skirt wi th more gathering.
1
1"x25" finished elast1c
CF
...............
........................ :::::::::::::;
COVER-STITCHED HEM
Cover-stitched hems are the b choice for the hem. The c est and most professional stretch. over-stitch will allow the hem to
-"'••.-. •• •.. .... -.-. .....
;.
SKIRTS
: 1'"' hem allowance
•
·-------------------!
Use at least a 1" hem allowance for straight hems. This will g1ve an added . . amount of we1ght to the hem, and hold 1t d . own Without creating a heavy hem. For curved hem
,
s, use a 112 hem allowance.
'tit ;.
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SKIRTS 1" X 25" finished elastic
125
CHAPTER 5
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Seam Allowances For Style #5-001
WAIST
Illustration shows the final style before any seam allowances have been added. Note that all production patterns should be cut full un' folded, as illustrated.
Add ';." seam allowances to the top edge of the waist, for serging, or turn under.
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SIDE SEAMS Add %" seam allowances for 4 -th read serger. 1to the original. Keep the curves exactly para 11e
SLITS
d d· the llowances ad e • The slits do not need any seam a foldback has already been added.
HEM Add 1" hem allowance for a straight hem. The completed pattern should lok like the illustration. before the necessary labeling.
, 126
HAPTER 5
~
SKIRTS
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z'' bigger and at the most %" larger than the armhole. This amount is the sleeve ease, whic h must always be allowed to get a correct fitting sleeve.
split the difference to blend the sleeve cap
Note: Do not change the wrist measurement.
.. •
••
•• •.
•• •
•• ••
overlap
.:1
~ ~ ~ ~
~
Hetrace the sleeve, blending the armhole by splitting the difference between the two sides. Hecheck ease.
To decrease the amount of ease, slash and overlap to the desired measurement. The sleeve must always be at least most, larger than the armhole.
w·
W bigger and. at the
This amount is the sleeve ease, which must 8JwaYS be ,._ lowed to get a correct fitting sleeve. Note: Do not change the wrist measurwnent.
~ ~ ~
,. •
SLEEVES
LINES
Retrace sleeve and blend the armhole by splitting the difference between the two sides. Recheck ease.
slash and spread to increase ease
Blend the new sleeve as illustrated.
257
CUTIING
split the difference to blend the steeve cap
Slash and spread to inc rea se the ease s0 amount falls within the range of 'N' to o/4''.
C HAPTER B
that the total
ALTERNATE METHOD OF CORRECTING SLEEVE EASE
This method of correcting the ease will not change the lower portion of the sleeve, only the sleeve cap.
stash and overlap to decrease ease
Slash and overlap to decrease the ease so that the total amount falls within the range of V2" and 31
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Draft the collar double the height of the required collar stnce it will be folded over and both raw edges will be sewn to the neckline of the sweater. Draft the collar pattern any height desired, but remember that any collar higher than 4" will be pushed down by the jaw.
Trace out the appropriate sloper. Measure the front and back neckline of th e soper. 1
The collar should have only one seam, either at the center ~ack, or preferably lined up with the left shoulder seams. herefore, the neckline measurement must be doubled, because you've only measured half of the neckline.
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SWEATERS
C HAPT ER 9
299
#10-001 COLLAR ~
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\ Since the neck .is wider at the b ase than at th t the exact neckline measurement from t e op, using a collar that gapes at the top. he draft woll create
MED
CUT1 SELF
-..-"""~-
Or simply remove approximately 'h " from each end of the collar pattern .
To correct this, pinch out the extra amo and remove that amount from the unt, measure it, pattern as illustrated.
The top of the collar is now smaller and will fit snug to the neckline.
The collar should be left with this extra fabric w . a zopper, since the z1pper will scratch th ~en Inserting e wearers neck.
The edge that attaches to the sweater is also smaller and must be stretched to fit into the neckline of the sweater.
:------------------------, I
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Add seam allow ances and label the pattern. Note that fully fashioned or sweaters cut from sweater blanks should not have hem allowance added. Fully-fashioned sweaters should only have a " one-stitch " seam allowance, o r 'Is".
COLLAR CORRECTIONS
If your fabric does not stretch enough for the collar to pull on over the head, then you have several adj ustment options. Insert a zipper or other closure in the collar.
300
CHAPl Lt1 9
SWEATERS
Enlarge the neckline and the colla r accordingly; however, the collar will sit away from the neck.
Use a contrast fabric, o ne that stretches more, for the collar.
Enlarge the collar and ease it into the neckline, for very small amounts only, to avoid puckering of the collar seam.
u:
0
STYLE # 10-002 SWEATER WITH OVER-SIZED TURTLENECK OR TUBULAR COLLAR
A tubular cowl neck sweater may be created by widening the neck opening and drafting a larger collar.
Decide how w ide you wish the nec kline to be and mark accordingly. Stay at least '12'' in from the armhole so the sleeve seam allowance doesn 't show.
u:
rj
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Draw in the new neckline, staying as high or close to the original neckline as possible, and square for %" at the shoulders, to blend.
SWEATERS
CHAPTER 9
301
#10-001 COLLAR ( loldllne J
Draw the collar accord ing to the new me necessary. asurements; no reductions are In addition, when constructing this garment towances are toward the outside of the ar~serge.the collar so the seam atthe collar and would otherwise she g .ent, Since they will be hidden b w on the InSide. Y
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CUT 1 SELF
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STYLE # 10 -003 OFF-THE-SHOULDER SWEATER This is an off-the-shoulder sweater.
Walk the sleeve around the armhole to the shoulder seam.
Draw in the neckline as required. Line the sleeve up with t he body.
ve since that portion Ignore any ease at the top of the slee . • of the sleeve is not included in t he destgn.
Don't draw it too low in the back; otherwise it wtll droop, and sag in the back.
30~
CHAPTER 9
SWEATERS
1161h smaller for rib A
I fQIIJl
10-003 OFF-SHOULDER S\\'EATER SLEEVE "-ED CUT 1 SELF
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OULDER SWEATER
10S~~:::e~F;;:D CUT 1 RIB ONLY
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OFF-SHOU.DER
OFF-SHOU..DER
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11
.... .... ....-. ..-... -
Dress Waist
rh, cln 1o1 .- 1 fl.'lthrn an htlt'Ioper if you wnnt to u..;t· 1t to crc•;t., a dro>~" ,Jopt.•r'' .I can you t-rt•att• a dn·~s with nn unfittt'd "ai~t'? .J fi rm can vou crt•;Ht• n dn·...;..; with a fittt•d w:n,t '' fi 1/ow C.tll ~·ou cn•atr· a cfrp,s "ith n "'ffil · tittt'cl \\ntst? G. \\'hich ,J,;pt·r .should bP uspd to t·n•o\lp ,1 cln•" fnm1 n fo11r·wuy ,;ln·tch fillnic"' 2
I''"'
c Oversized Projects About this Chapter Occasionally a designer may require garments to be oversized, or much la rger than normal garments. This chapter will introduce the reader to the concepts and patternmaking techniques used to create oversized garments, and will begin by drafting of a set of oversized top slopers. Understand that your garments may be created as large as you wish, but the size label does not change, because the customer is simply wearing them larger, looser, and baggier. To create an oversized jacket, use the jacket sloper and enlarge as much as your design requires. Once you have created the oversized slopers, you may use any of the other details in this text on oversized styles.
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPERS
The following examples will be illustrated with and total body increase of 6", but the designer may want a smaller increase, or a larger mcrease.
ai
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u
increase the total body cirrumference by s··
341
CHAPTER 11
O VERSIZED PROJECTS
The oversized sloper is used when the designer wants to c reate styles that mfddle of the shoulder : underarm area
. ··-···-+ ... r armhole
I
I
area
are loosely fitted or baggy. This is still a size Medium, because the neckline has not been changed, ana should be labeled "Medium Oversized." To create a style that is 6" larger around the c irc umference, extend each quarter of the pattern by 1W', half of that through the shoulder and the other half through the underarm. Draw a vertical line through the shoulder area to the hem and then through the underarm area to the hem. Then draw a line horizontally through the armhole the same amount that th shoulder has increased , because you don't want an oversized p roject withe tight armholes. Use the straight waist, as it doesn't make sense to make an oversized fitted wa1st.
INCREASE CHART
1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7" 8" g"
DD
10" 11" 12" 13" 14"
Underarm Increase
Quarter Body Increase
Shoulder Increase
'I•
'I• '12
'Is
% 'h %
%
31· 'I•
'!.
'h % 1 1 'I• 1 '12 1% 2
'h
'h
s;.
1 1 'Is 1 'I• 1% 1 112 1% 1%
2'1• 2'12 2% 3
3'1· 3'12
'I• 1
I 5
g>
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I
. ta
• ira
il m
1% 1 '12 1%
1'!.
I
I blend
To b lend: Straighten out the shoulder b . from the neck to armhole i Y drawtng a new straight line Blend th ' gnonng any discrepancies. e armhole and the underarm areas.
fll
1'1•
width increase of 1 1/2'
Only the widths of th b the neckline or the e. ody and sleeve have ch • wnst . anged, not
..
il il
Sfra·
=
'-
1 'Is
~!"
Slash and spread the bod . 6" d. 'd y to Increase the fit lVI e by 4 1 'Y:2" for each p . anel of the body 1Y2" d' ·d 1VIedby 2 = 3 '" f · " or each ar t Slash and spread the ea hat will be enlarged. se two areas by 3," illustrated· " nch.a
~
fg
Use this cart to determine the amount for each increase. Total Body Increase
.-. ..•. ..-.. •
e
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
B
VERSIZED TOP SLOPER BACK MED
--
VERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
343
c
\
XX / ',
~
Label as "oversized slopers." It is still Medium size, but intended to be worn looser.
It does not make any sense to create a fitted oversized top sloper, since it is already so oversized, and the sides extend well past the waist of the customer.
C'\ 3/4"
OVERSIZED SLEEVE
The sleeve must increase equally in order to fit into the body.
By looking at the illustration, it is easy to understand the placement and amounts of the increases necessary. Make the changes necessary to ensure that the sleeve fits into the new body.
Figuring out the sleeve is simple, whatever changes have been made to the armh ole must be re-created so the sleeve will fit into it. Slash and spread the sleeve to correspond to the body, as illustrated.
344
CHAPTER 11
OVER-SIZED SLEEVE BLOCK
T Blend the new sleeve and wa lk around to check for accuracy.
.. .... -.-.... ..-.. -•
~
O VERSIZED PROJECTS
Label the sleeve as Me dium Oversized Sleeve Sloper.
Remember to allow for sleeve ease. Check the ease. Max1mum "
~
Somet1mes the wnst area of the sleeve is only enlarged half as much as the balance of the sleeve.
OVERSIZED CREW NECK T-SHIRT The oversized crew neck T-shirt is created the same way as the fitted crew neck, except that the oversized slopers will be used.
Sometimes the w rist is not enlarged at all. You must determine by you r design which method to use.
OVERSIZED V-NECK T-SHIRT The oversized V-neck T-shirt is created the same way as the regular V-neck T-shirt, except that the oversized stoper is used instead of the regular sloper.
See Chapter 9, Tops See Chapter 9, Tops
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
345
CF
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
OVERSIZED HOODIE
THE KANGAROO POCKET
Hoodies are a great example of oversized garments.
The kangaroo pocket can be applied to many different garments, such as pants, skirts, T-shirts, and can be any size or dimension you wish.
This draft will demonstrate an oversized hoodie.
Measure up lhe center front 6". Measure across the hem 4" in each direction. Measure across the top of the pocket 3" on each side.
CF
...
1/4"
,..-,:0
1/4~
seam allowance
,·------ ----------------,
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
u' o'
' ~· o' ';6:
o:
, ...
!!
0~~ 1 "'"
Add hem allowance and seam allowances to the pocket as Mark the drill marks '14' in and 1/4" down from the line, since you don't want the marks, sometimes drilled, to show once the pocket is applied.
illustrated. The sides of the pocket will be hemmed with the cover stitch. The top of the pocket will be edge-stitched in place. The bottom of the pocket will be caught in the rib waistband.
. f" ·sh the sides of AI ternately, you can use a folded nb to '"' the pocket.
346
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
·"'
d
To curve the sides of the pocket, you must add a facing. If you want to shape the sides of the pocket, you must use
CF
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
...,.,., .. _.._ 0
Label the front of the top as illustrated with drill marks and notches to indicate the pocket placement.
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
ZIPPER WITH COVERED TEETH
To c reate a top with a zipper opening, whereby you don't want to see the teeth , you can c reate welts to cover the teeth . Measure down any length for the zipper.
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
't
I I
a facing to fmish the edges.
0
'' '
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT
MED
Draw parallel lines '/." w·d t 1 ' e 0 draft the welts. Trace and separate the pieces as illustrated.
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
347
,.
---+ The welts drawn on the pattern can be tr as illustrated, and seam allowan aced on the fold ces added. The long side of the welts should have 'N ances, and the ends should have '1:.. seam allowz seam allowances.
I
..
When folded, the welts look like the illustration.
CF CF
OVERSIZED HOOD IE FRONT MED
RIB WAISTBAND
Label the pattern pieces as indicated. The welts must be fused with tricot to prevent them from stretching when sewing and wearing.
The rib waistband needs to be slightly smaller than the waist. Even when creating the waistband for an oversized top, the waist is still drafted using the regular sized sloper. It needs to be snug on the customer's waist.
CF
The width to the waistband can be any size you wish, and will be folded over and sewn to the hem. Use the rib sloper with bui lt in reductions to determine the length of the waistband. . . . aistband to fit around the Th1s waist must be multiplied by four to create a w entire hem.
RIB SLOPER
CHAPTER 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
~.
..
ALTERNATE METHOD OF DETERMINING RIB LENGTH
fl the model at the area of the body Measure the dress-form or ' where the rib will sit.
1o% smaller than h1p measurement
'IIi
... =
Make the rib length 10% smaller.
.
Ill
CF
II fl
REGULAR SLEEVE BLOCK
•
, .. / RIB
OVERSIZED HOOD IE FRONT MED
~ SLEEVE ~ BLOCK
i t i
•t
"' '" f·--..........-......,' ..... "'t~61EiJt"r9........................."";................."']
~
Label the pattern as illustrated.
RIB CUFFS
Notch the front, back, and sideseams of the waistband for easy assembly and to ensure that you stretch the waistband to fit the top evenly.
When drafting a ribbed cut, use the regular rib sloper, so that it is snug on the c ustomer's wrist.
REGULAR SLEEVE BLOCK
Make the length to fit the regular rib sloper as wide as you wish illustrated at 4" which is folded in half. '
:·./RIB \ SLEEVE
; BLOCK
:
.
.
·IEJ::
; ..,.,~
~
OVER S I Z ED PROJ E CTS
ALTERNATE METHO
M
I
D OF DETERMINING CUFF RIB LENGTH
easure the dress-form ' or fit model at lhe area of the body where lhe rib will sit.
I
I
I
10% smaller than wrist measurement
\
~•
••• •
349
C H APTER 11
Make the rib length 10% smaller.
CB
c
neckline
I
drop
OVER-SIZED SLEEVE
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
I
HOODS Label the pattern as illustrated.
Hoods may be created for any neckline or for regular fit, T-shirts, sweaters, tank tops, and catsuits. Place the front sieper on top of the back sloper, matching the shoulders. Measure the difference between the necklines; this is the amount of the neckline drop.
measure back neckline CB
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER BACK MED
OVERSIZED TO SLOPER FRONT MED
\ Measure from the pit of the neck, all the way around the head to the pit of the neck on the other side. Measure around the head from eyebrow to eyebrow.
b ck neckline. Measure the front neckline and t h e a
350
CHAPTER 11
~
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
half of the ear to ear measurement
.. .. ..-. .-. ~
neckhne drop
--------~
1measurement
Mark a guideline above by the amount of the neckline drop.
Draw intersecting lines. From the lower point mark, measure up 15" or desired amount. Square a line 12" across, or the desired amount.
r neckline drop -----~.,._-"':-::: "
112
measurement
Using the measurement of the front neckline, hold the ruler on the lower line and place it wherever your front neckline lines up on the upper line.
back neck - - - -- - --
""---'
1neckline drop
measurement
Apply the back neckline measurement along the upper line.
Make sure to square the line for '12''.
At approximately half-way along the center back sh the hood to resemble the back of your head mak'. ape • 1ng sure th t th r · a e lne IS squared straight up for the first 1".
blend
Blend the neckline into a smooth c urve for easier sewing.
•• •• • ~
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
351
,.,. HOOD MED CUT2
HOOD MED CUT2
Trace and label the hood as .1 ' 1ustrated.
1
HOOD OPTIONS
To a curve d hood, measure 2W' from the points andcreate d raw the curve. '
HOOD MED
HOOD MED CUT2
CUT2
Measure in 2 '12''.
Cut out the section so that it forms a dart at the top of th back of the hood. e
Measure down 2 '12''.
HOOD WITH PANEL SEAMS AND CENTER BACK SEAM Square a line across and down from the 2'12" marks.
Separate the pattern pieces.
CHAPTER 11
O VERSIZED PROJECTS
Swing the center back panels to line up with each other as illustrated and make into one s1ngle piece.
Blend the corners into a smooth curve, and you will have to reduce the length of the center back, from the top edge of the panel, so that it fits to the new curved line.
1112"
HOOD
MED CUT2
HOOD WITH RIBBING A hood pattern can be drafted without a center back seam, by reversing the center back panel and c utting it on the fold. It will need a length correction, from the top edge, so that it fits perfectly to the curved lines.
The hood may also be drafted with ribbing to finish the edge of the hood. Measure an amount for the rib, illustrated at 1112'', but may be larger or smaller, as the designer wishes.
Separate the pieces.
Reduce the length of the ribbing pattern piece by 10%, remove it from the top, then straight edge.
,
,,"' •..
-•..
• •
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
HOOD MED CUT2
If
RIB TRIM
CHAPTER 11
353
HOOD MED
MED
CUT2
CUT2-
I
•
I I I
••
HOOD ON FOLD 1 ustrated. Fold and trace the pattern pieces as .11
The hood may be drafted with a fold at the top.
This hood has a seam in the ribbing at th e top of the h d but may also be cut in a single piece. ea •
I
"Ill
HOOD MED
HOOD MED CUT2
CUT 2
HOOD ON CENTER BACK FOLD The hood may be drafted without a seam in the back and just a large dart. This is very useful when using striped fabrics since both sides will match at the back.
Alternatively, the dart intake amounts may be transferred to the shoulder notch, the excess, normally taken in at the center back, must be taken in as a dart at the shoulder notch.
354
CHAPTER 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
HOOD MED
;,CUT2
OVERSIZED HOODED RAGLAN SWEATSHIRT
Raglan sleeves are often used when creating oversized garments.
Reduce the length of the dart to 3'12'.
Since there is no armhole seam, it is not as obvious that the garment is cut bigger, and will fit a larger segment of the population. In this section, we will create the pattern for a raglansleeved top with a hood, ribbed cuffs, and waistband.
......
..,
... •...
IIIII
IIIIi
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT
MED
Place the front and back slopers together alon the shoulders. g Draw a line connecting the underarm points. Extend the line beyond the underarms.
Draw a guideline from each underarm point and extend the line past the underarm point by approximately 3".
....
.... ,.
,-
,-
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
355
CHAPTER 11
c
\
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
add the amount of the overtap to the hem
Place the sleeve on the underarm line as illustrated. Match Point 1 to the shoulder notch on the shoulder line. Match Point 2 to the back underarm point on the line.
Remember to add to the length of the sleeve, the amount that the sleeve overlaps the shoulders, and to keep the length consistent, otherwise the sleeve will be too short.
Match Point 3 to the front underarm point on the line. Note: The sleeve will overlap at the shoulder and go past the underarm points. We will correct thi s in the next step.
c
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
I
romo;t,;;;,o0~;oun to tho hom
-----
d on top then this If there is a gap when the s leeve Is place ' e so It 1 amount must be removed from t he hem of the s eev doesn't get any longer.
\ Mark the neckline 1" from the shoulder line 1n both dtrections. or use any measurement the designer desires.
356
CHAPTER 11
•~
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
Draw a stra 1ght hne from the neck point to the underarm mtersecllons as shown. Extend th1s line past 11'i' the underarm point. Draw the raglan style line from the marks on the neck to the sleeve armhole Intersection and continue through the center of the underarm point. When draft1ng the f1tted raglan T -shirt in Chapter 7, you followed the Opposing curves to remove the excess fabric from the underarm. However with the oversized top, you don 't want a tight armhole, so draw a line ' straight through the new armhole to the underarm intersection. You've gone to a lot of trouble to make this sloper oversized, and should use the extra fabric for a comfortable easy fit.
OVERSIZED
TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
....
.. .-.. ..... -.-. -.. -...... -..... ---""
• •
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)
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{.OVERSIZED
....
11n-
Notch the front and back raglan sea
OVERSIZED TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
TOP
SLOPER FRONT MED
Measure down 1'12'' at the underarms and square a lin across to the body and the sleeve. e
. ms 1or construction.
~
j
Blend a new curved underarm.
~
"'
OVERS IZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
357
CF
OVERSIZED
TOP SLOPER FRONT MED
RAGLAN FRONT
Trace out the sleeve in a contrast colored pencil or pen, so that you can see the piece clearly.
CB
Trace out the front and back bodies in a contrast colored pencil, or pen, so that you can see the pieces clearly.
RAGLAN CF
BACK
RAGLAN RAGLAN
SLEEVE MED
BACK MED
RAGLAN FRONT MED
RAGLAN FRONT
Notch, separate. and label the pattern pieces.
Raglan Style Options The ragl an sea m may be shaped as desired.
358
CHAPTER 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
RAGLAN BACK
RAGLAN BACK
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~
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CF
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RAGLAN FRONT
The raglan seam may be shaped as desired; it may even extend into the center front if you desire.
The basic raglan draft may also be used to create dolman or batw1ng sleeves. Shape the underarm as desired and place a long seam down the shoulder of the garment.
...
... •. .• .. ... .
ill
) RAGLAN
,....
...
BACK
.,
OVERSIZED POLO SHIRT CF
The polo shirt may be created with a kmtted polo collar or a self collar. Knit collars are purchased in different lengths:
RAGLAN FRONT
Fo~ a more comfortable fit, and to keep the sleeves from falling backwards on the customer, move the shoulder seam towards the front or the arm by 'N'.
Nevertheless, many manufacturers simply kn1t one SIZe and either stretch it to fit the neckline, or ease it 11110 a smaller neckline.
xs
13
M L XL
14" 15• 15• 17"
s
-
OVERS IZED PROJECTS
,~
CHAPTER 11
....' ,.
3 59
.,'
-·-
'- - - - - ' - - - - -'
Draft the placket on top of the top draft, so you can see and understand how it all fits together.
Trace out the placket as illustrated and add seam allowances.
Draft the slit as deep as you w ish, illustrated here at 6". Then draft the placket to finish at 1" wi de. The placket is 1" w ide a nd will fit into an opening of 1" wide. The two plackets w ill overlap for buttons and buttonholes.
Fold each placket towards the inside. Indicate with a slit or a notch the center front placement of the placket on the front of the top.
To sew: Fuse the placket pieces to re-enforce ons and buttonholes. them f or butt F ld both plackets in half. . o both plackets, folded , With raw une up es touching. ed g . V: " before the sew at W' stopping • lackets. ends of the P til 1' before Clip the slit all the way un the end. . . Clip a Y in the sht.
Sew across the bottom, catching the little triangle.
360
CHAf'TCR 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
/ 2%"
back neck facing cut 1 sell cut 1 fuse
3X"
= ••. .•. ..
-•. -•• -.-3
•
POLO COLLAR FACINGS
You may also create a facing for a style with a placket.
Make the back facing longer than the front, since it will be viewed when on the hanger. Make the back placket 3'12'' down at the center back.
OVERSIZED SHORT SLEEVE WITH RIBBED CUFF A rib cuff still needs to fit snugly on the arm even though the garment is oversized. It must be made 10% smaller than the original sloper, before enlarging.
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
361
Assignment #1· H . Kangaroo Pocket ood•e with
AssJg~ment . #2: Create an
Create an oversized hood·Ie Wit .hS t · an exposed teeth zipper, n .b cuf fse -m · a dsleeves . ' band with a kangaroo pocket. ' n waist-
Create an rati . overs·_Ized ragI an hoodie with a scpang Zipper, nb cuffs, and waistband.
Assignment #3: Create an Oversized Polo Top Create an oversized raglan-sleeved polo top using a purchased collar with a center front but-
0 vers1zed Hoodie
Assignment #4: Create an Oversized Turtleneck Create an oversized turtleneck top with a separating zipper, ribbed collar, cuffs, a nd waistband.
ton placket.
. C t an oversized Assignment #5: rea e Dolman Sleeved ToP top with rib cuffs d . d d 0 lrnan s1eeve Create a cropped oversize and waistband.
362
CHAPTER 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
u.
u
COAT SLOPER FRONT MED
JACKET SLOPER FRONT MED
TOP SLOPER FRONT MED Increase by 2"
II!CI'V8 58
by2"
inCTease the total body Orrurnference by 2'"
Jacket Slopers This section will introduce the patternmaking principles used to create knit jackets and coats. The principles are similar to those already studied· however the blocks used are slightly differ~nt. Jack~ts must be created slightly larger than the clothes worn underneath. The slopers must be enlarged enough to accommodate the clothes worn underneath, and knit coats must be larger than the jackets worn underneath. Regular slopers are used to create a garment that has nothing except undergarments wor n underneath. For example, summer weight knits, dresses, a nd tops that are worn "next to the skin." Jacket slopers are used when the designer wants to create styles intended to be worn over other clothing, such as pullovers a nd cardigans. Therefore, the size must increase to accommodate the clothing underneath . Coat slopers are used t o creat e garments that are worn over other sweater s or jackets. They are still all size Medium, however, they are intended to be worn over other garments.
The regular top sloper will be increased in width a total of 2" or '/,'' per panel to create a jacket sloper. Repeat or double th e measurements for coat slopers.
approx half·way
---l 1/4 ----
•...... ~
below the waist notch
-----l1/8 ---- -
VERTICAL INCREASES Make the increases to the back sloper and simply change the neckline to create the front sieper. To apply the vertical increases: Draw a line parallel to the side seams approximately 31/ in from the side seam (increase by Ys" per panel). Draw a vertical line through the shoulder approximately half-way (increase by y,• per panel). Draw a vertical line 1" in from the front along the neck per panel). edge (increase by
v.·
.•. .. ... .. ,•
--
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
363
118 :
118 : 118
1f".
1/2
1/2
114
118
HORIZONTAL INCREASE
112
~ 1'8
To apply the horizontal increases:
118
· Draw a line parallel to the shoulder ap from the shoulder (increase b 101 proximately '/4' in Draw a horizontal line th roug h the Y armhol • per panel). proximately half-way thro h e area, apby V2 per panel). ug the armhole (increase
118
! 1/8 114
; 118 118
Slash 'II and spread these areas by the amounts I ustrated.
Draw a horizontal line below th . e w aist notch (increase by '/• per panel). When both directions of increases are indica! should look like the illustration. ed, they
,w"6_,. •Stra·9ht 1
.
1112"\
?/'~e ' ''' '' '
:
'
l' ' ''' ''' ''
: '' '
!
--''
'' '' : g:
•"' \~-:
''' '' '' :' '' '
i
!,__ --------- -----'!
BLENDING AND TRUEING THE SLOPERS Straighten out the shoulder by drawing a new straight line from the neck to armhole, ignoring any discrepancies.
SECOND LAYER SLOPER FRONT To create the second layer front sweater sloper, simply trace out the back sloper, when completed, and lower the front neck 1'12" and draw in a new neckline as illustrated. Or use your front sloper and trace out the neckline.
Blend the armhole, neck, and the underarm areas. Label as "jacket slope rs" or " second layer sloper'' for sweaters.
364
CHAPTER 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
1/8
1/8
- j :;~---~~: - -f
1/4
:
: 1/4
\below the elbow notch!
:.·1/8!-;----; -1-,5t -/-
\
1/8
·~
~
1/8
~ ' 1/8 ....... ...,... 118
SECOND LAYER SWEATER SLEEVE SLOPERS
To find the increase areas for the sleeve, line up the sleeve with the body as illustrated and match the increase areas accordingly.
Mark the sleeve to correspond to the body, as illustrated. Slash and spread once above the elbow notch.
It is possible, and easier, to increase one-half of the sleeve and copy to the other side, or draft it on the fold of your paper and then open it up to trace onto oak-tag.
r___ :
/~~~~~.
I,. ,:;~/ I 112
1/2
112\._
.
·-,
: 1/8
•
::
I ,. ,: :/ i1/8
1/8
1/8
1~
i 1/8
1/4
L.
------------!
Slash and spread the sle . the body increases. eve sloper as illustrated to match
'
I.. ------------.!'
Blend the sleeve as illustrated. You can use the 0 · · 1 blend th nglna sleeve sloper as a template to e curved parts of the new sleeve.
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
365
I
2ND lAYER SWEATER SLEEVE
MED
Walk the sleeve around the a rm hole to check for Label as "jacket sieper" or "s accuracy. sweaters." econd layer Sloper for
SLOPER SHIFTING TO CREATE SECOND LAYER SLOPERS
It is not always necessary to slash and spread to create I second ayer slopers. You can s1mply shift the regular Sloper the required amount, and trace each part as it is enlarged. See the following: Trace out the back neck section for approximately 1".
1/8
/~r" ' ' --~----L ' ' :' :' '''
'' '
:
:
i i
f
l
I
'' I
''
'' '' '
' ''' '
'' '' '
:
,----:-----:-
Shift the sieper to the left, 'Ia", as illustrated, and trace out the next section of the neck.
Shift the sieper up 'Ia" and trace out the next section of the neck and the corner intersection. Because the neck will be blended with a ruler in a straight line, it is not necessary to draw the entire shoulder, just the corners.
Shift the sloper out '14' as illustrated and trace the next section of the shoulder, then the shoulder corner intersection.
366
CHAPTER 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
( =- ~ -~
~
~·r !
1/4
r· l
•,J
-~
Shift the sloper down 1/a" and trace the next sect1on of the sloper.
Shift the sloper down another '14' and trace out the next sections.
Shift the sloper out '/a" and trace the remainder of the underarm and the corner intersection. Indicate the waist notch .
........
/: ''
''
!
1
''
' ''' '''
''
t : _.,. ; Shift the sloper down 1/a" and trace to the hem and the hem corner intersection.
J
'
:
:
'
'
''' ''' '' '
'
l'
' ''
-+----~
' '''
''' '' ''' ' ' --i-----~
''
'
1
-~·---t
I I
'' '' '' '''
~
\ :
\---r---r I
1
Shift the sloper back 1/e" in the reverse
Shift the sloper back /4' and trace that
direction and trace that portion of the
section of the hem.
hem.
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
r
CHAPTER 11
367
~-r I
--r----t o
--f
!' !' [
1
I
I
:
'' ''
'' '
'' -r''
I
:---~-· __ _t
I
' I
Shift the sloper over 'Is" and trace the rema1n1ng sect1on of the hem and the
t118
Shift the sloper back ' " that portion of th up Is and trace e center back.
corner.
Shift the sloper up W' and trace the last portion of the center back. The sieper should have traveled a full Circle and be back at the same point that 1t originated.
To create the front sloper: To blend:
Trace out the back sieper and make changes to the neck as illustrated. Lower the neck 1'Is" and bend a new neck. Or use the original neckline as a template. To indicate the fitted waist, trace the side seam from the
Connect the shoulders, side seams, and hems with a straight line. Blend the neck and underarm, using the original sloper as a curve template, so that the new sloper retains
original sieper.
the original curves. Note: It may look as if the neck has increased by a total of '14', but after blending, it should have only increased by %" due to the nature of the curves. Repeat for the front sloper.
Extra small Neck drop
1
1••
7
small
Medium
Large 9
1 /os
Extra Large
368
CHAPTER 11
OVERSIZED PROJECTS
r
I
n~E~ BL~~~L
2
MED
MED
-~
. __J
1
---Alternate method of cutting out sweater slopers: To save space and oak-tag. place front and back together as illustrated. Then fold on the fold line of center/front and center/back. In order to use these slopers, you must trace the back twice and the front twice, using the center as the fold line.
SLOPER SHIFTING TO CREATE SECOND LAYER SLEEVE SLOPERS
The sleeve sloper may be increased on the light paper fold, as half, then opened and traced onto oak-tag. Trace the first section of the sleeve, as indicated.
"••
• ti
• I
I
•
Shift the sloper out 'Is" and trace the next section.
Shift the sloper down ';.'' and trace the next section.
Shift t he sloper out 'Is" and trace, as indicated.
/1 . 1/8;
. . '
~-------! ' ' ''
'
II
:
' ____ j '' '' '' ''
.. '
''' ''
Shift the sloper down 'Is".
Shift the sloper back in and trace.
Shift the sloper in 'Ia".
OV ERSIZED PROJECTS
CHAPTER 11
··-
I
~
\ .. \
\
--~
369
.. 114
..
-·--·· · ~ ',
Shift the sloper back up as indicated.
'Is" and trace
Shift the sloper up 'Ia".
Shift the sloper up 1/." as indicated. You should have gone full circle and be exactly where you started. Cut out the paper sloper on the fold, open it up, and trace again onto the oak-tag. Always cut the sleeve full/open, and do not put a crease in your sleeve sloper, as it will wear out along that edge too fast.
Assignment #6 Create your own version of Style # 10-002, zip front oversized turtleneck with a front facing a nd back neck twill tape. Create a 3" high, finished collar. Use a 24" sepa rating zipper. Add a 11/z" hem allowance and hand hem, or blind h em the sweater . Cut and sew this garment using a purchased sweater knit.
Test Your Knowledge of the
Material in this Chapter 1. How much la r ger sh ould th e over sized slop er b e? 2. What size is t h e oversized sloper? ? sized sloper · 3 · When should you use a n over
4. How can you figure out how much larger to make the sleeve? 5. How can we ensure that the ribbed cu ffs fit snugly?
_ _ _ _C~H A
T E R
2
Four-Way-Stretch About This Chapter This chapterc introduces the PI .mclp - . 1es of t b way-s t ret ch 1a rics. The patterns ar . ~o-way- and fourof stretch; the difference become e Identical for both types wears the garment, and areas 0 ; ~~p:~nt when the customer Ie c do not return to their original shape, causing baggy forth. ees, crotches, waists, and so
k:
.......hfii-1~1~
stretches across the fabric as well as tengthw1se
stretches across the fabric
Stretches only across the fabric, and the stretch is entirely derived from the stitches used when creating the fabric. Garments should be made with the stretch going around the body.
Stretches across as well as up and down the fabric. The additional stretch is derived from the texturing and c rimping of the yarn used to knit the
s.lfelchet 1etOU lhe labnC aswe"aslef\{lthwlte andh&s&P~~ndexadded
Stretches across as well as up and down the fabric. Supplementary stretch is added to the yarn before knitting by using spandex/Lycra~.
fabric.
Most knits stretch more in one direction than in the other. · h w·se direction. When . kmts only stretch 111 t e cross l any M using knits for dresses, jackets, pants,r skirts, ?ps atnhde ut1.1t1zes alwaysand k ·. sleeves ' the experienced patternmad.1e t.10n of stretch encnrec built-in stretch of knits so that the of st 1.et ch should t t degree cles the figure. However, the grea es . catsuits, leotards, or go up a nd down the torso for bodysUl~sthe crotch, to allow for any other garment that passes througk 1.t are rarely used for maximum mobility; one-way-stretch ~ s er raised her arms garments, because when the om . tt would be uncomfortable 1n the cro tt · ·ns are created identlTwo-way- and four-way-stretch pa bet sed interchangeably. cally, mca ning thesamcPatterns maY e u
~hese
•
ct~~
371
C HAPTER 12
FOUR - WAY- STRETC H
that garments made with two-way Please! notlel. f~owes:egr, on the body at the knees, elbows, and stretc 1 W I o .en fabric doesn't h ave a ny memo1.y or e1ast 1.ch becauS e tile crotc . . d ' II t eturn to its origmal s h ape wh enbworn. 1ty an w1 no r Also note that one-way-stretch patterns may e used with r t 1.e tcl1 fabrt·cs as long as the garment does not need ,our-way-s lengthwise reductions. For example, a one-way-stretch skirt may be cu t us1·ng a fiour-way-stretch fabnc because there is nothing holding the skirt down at t~e bo~tom hem (referred to as a n anchor), so the lengthwise dtrectwn of stretch I S not utilized a t all. Distinct and separ ate four-way-stret ch pa.tterns are only necessary when the stretch of th~ garment I S anchored through the crotch, such as with catsUits, bodysUits, leotards, and one-piece swimsuits.
Four-Way-Stretch Slopers Rule of thumb: 5" will stretch to 10" or more m both directions. Four-way-stretch garments ar e not just for swimsuits and activewear. The increased use of spandex in more a nd more knits results in mor e r esilient fabrics that don't bag or sag when wor n. When you u se super-four -way-st retch fabrics, the patt ern can and should be simpler becau se of the fabric's innate ability t o mold around the body. Many four-way-str et ch fabrics don't n ecessarily look like activewear fabrics, so the garments creat ed with them don't have to be activewear. Because knitted fabrics with spandex have excellent stretch and excellent memory, they allow us to create form-fitting garments that hold their sh ape without the need for tailoring or for zipper s and other fast ener s. For maximum mobility a nd tight fit, four-way-stretch garments must h ave negative ease, meaning that they must be smaller tha n th e actua l body. When dra fting for super stretch, the designer must reduce the body measurements to compensate for the str etch. While each combination of knit stitches a nd fiber content r equires a n individua l solution, an average 10 percent r eduction applied to vertical and horizontal measurements will result in a basic fit. Because it is much easier to take in an oversized garment th a n to let out a too-tight garment, note tha t a ll measurements should be exaggerated until a fter the fitting.
Four-Way-Stretch Reductions Rule of thumb: 10 percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction; 10 percent smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100 percent in both directions.
FOUR-WAY- STRETCH
373
CHAPTER 12
Only four-way-stretch sl 1 h opers are h pass t roug 1 t e cr otch and sh ld _used for garment h lengthwise str etch . ou ets, m order to U tT s t t hat d · I IZe e These re uct10ns may a! so b e u sed for two-way-stretch fabrics.
MEASUREMENT CHART The following draft will use the "Misses Medi .. ments in the standard column 0 r use the s1ze . um range measurements· that you wish.however, for a personal sieper. substitute the measure-
... :: ...............,. ... $
ff/JWIIJ
#
Measurement
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level Upper chest
Standard
34 112 26'12 37 '12 10% 23 % 39 '1• B'l• 14 '1• 2% 3% 1 '1a 16% 2 112
'Ia 5 '/• 7% 23 1/a 1 112 11'12 6% 14 7/a 7 10'1a 32
Reduce by5% X .90-10% X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90
no reduction no reduction no reduction no reduction no reduction no reduction X .90 X .90 no reduction X .90 X .90
Extra Extra Small
28% 21 '1• 31 9 20 % 34% 7 12 2 2 71• 1 14 1la 2% % 5 11a 7 22 % 1% 9% 5 14'12 5 7/a 9
Small Medium Large 33 '1• 32 31 29 '1· 30'1• 26'1• 24 31• 22 23 23'1• 36 34% 32 33 31· 32'1• 9% 9 112 9% 9'1a 9'1• 22'12 22% 22 1/e 22'1• 20'1a 37 31· 37'12 37 '1• 34'!. 37 7 112 7 % 7% 7 '1· 7'1• 3 1 1 13'1• 13 12 1· 12 12 12 1· 2'1• 2'1• 2 '1• 2 2 3% 3'1• 3'1• 3 3 1 1 '1a 1 1e 1 1 1 3 1 16 15 1• 15 12 15% 14 '1• 2'12 2'12 2 112 2'12 2% 'Ia 'I• 'Ia 'Ia % 6'1• 6 5 31• 5 112 5'1• 7'1a 7 112 7% 7 '1• 7 11a 23 3la 23'1• 23 '1a 23 22 71a 1 112 1 '12 1 '12 1 112 1'12 11 10 31• 10% 10 9% 6'1a 6 '/• 6 5% 5 '/• 7 15'/a 3 15 /a 14 14 /• 14% 6 '12 6% 6 1/• 6 1/a 6 7 10 1/a 3 10 9 /a 9 /• 9'/e
:::
Four-Way-Stretch Sloper Draft
~
A-B
,.,.
..,. .,. :: f/iliiJIA
~
~
Extra Large
Extra Small
nape to waist Extra Extra Small
Nape to Waist Half-way
14 1/a 7
Extra small
small 3
14 •;..
7'1•
15 /a 7 7/a
Medium
15 112 73/.1
Large
15% 7 7/a
Extra Large
16 8
Extra Extra Large
34% 27 112 37% 9 '1a 22'1s 38 7 '1s 13% 2% 3'12 1 1le 16 '1• 2 112 'I• 6'12 7 31• 23'12 1 '12 11 % 7 15'/• 6 3/• 10 1/•
Extra Extra Large
16'/• 8 1/a
374
CHAPTER 12
FOUR-WAY- STRETCH
=t
~
A-C
=
A-D = back neck
half of A-8
A-E = Back neck rise
Square a guideline at A-8-C.
A-F = shoulder pitch
E
.-r1
A
G
I.
E-G = shoulder length (goes from point F to wherever that measurement lines up on line F, the shoulder pitch line).
Square a line from the shoulder at point E past line F, the shoulder pitch line.
Since the front will be drafted on top of the back, the measurements need to be divided into four.
'I• of waist 'I• of hip Crotch depth '13 of crotch depth
Extra Extra Small
Extra Small
5'1e
5'1• B'le
8% 10'12 3 112
10% 3 112
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
6% 9'1• 10'1• 3'12
671• 9% 10% 3112
7% 10% 107la 35!1
8% 11 11e 11'1e 3'1•
9% 12'1e 11% 3'1•
FOUR -WAY-STRETCH
CHAPTER 12
375
BACK NECK
oraw a curved line as illustrated. Remembe '/2" from E and W' from A. Draw free h r to square for line with your curved ruler. and and clean up the
FRONT NECK
Draw . ,~ .. f a curved rme as Illustrated. Remember to square for r 2 rom E and W' for F. Draw free hand and clean up the tne wtth your curved ruler.
4 F
c
H
.
C-H = across back measurement, square up to shoulder, and label the point where it intersects the shoulder line
H-K = 'h " on a bias angle.
point J (it does not meet up with point G). C-1 = bust measurement. K =half of H-J .
Extra Extra Small Across back Bust
7 7'/•
Extra Small 1 /•
7 7 '1e
Small
Medium
Large
7'/4 7'12
7'1e
7'h
?'A
8
Extra Large
7% 8'1e
Extra Extra Large
7% 8%
CHAPT[R 12
FOUR WAY-STRETCH
G
G bad. armholo
\
lronl ":
Draw rn the front leg openrng by connecting the points from 1 to 5.
'' '
Blend into the center front.
Make a smooth, continuously curved lrne that blends into the front crotch lrne. Draw freehand , then clean up the lines w1th the curved ruler.
l
E
f~:
baCk a'Ttlhc:Me
front armhole
back
front
armhole
armhole
K
.j:
H
K
-
C
c
.V H
0
R (
p1
·r
N
Find the center of that line and mark out %" + '/,'' + W'.
I·
B
warst
..
Q '-
For the back, connect a straight line from point P to the front crotch line.
A F
G
2
3
.G-...-;, I
y·¥. '< 5 M
Redraw with curved lines. These lines are for the different sizes of bottoms. Some medium customers have larger or smaller bottoms, and it will depend on your target market which curved line you incorporate.
I I
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS
'AND ONE- AN
D TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13
403
CF
LEOTARD SLOPER FRONT MED (date)
LEOTARD SLOPER BACK MED (date)
TRUEING THE LEOTARD SLOPERS
Trace and separate the leotard sloper as illustrated.
To true the neckline and armholes. line up the slopers as illustrated, as if they had been sewn and pressed open. Make sure that the curves blend in a smooth and continuous manner and that there are NO points in the blend.
!
t
•
•
•
•
CB
CF
~
D
I
CB
blend
~
..
••
•• ••
-
•• .-
-
hole curves into Match the underarms and blend the arm smooth and continuously curved lines.
ening at the side seam by matching the Blend the Ieg o P . . t hes and walking the stde seams. watst no c ening into a smooth and continuously Blend the leg op curved line .
CHAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND T
WO PIECE SWIMSU IT S -
blend )
I CB
Blend the crotch into a smooth and continuously curved line.
l
You will have to add an additional 1/4" to the crotch seams in order to make the curve smooth enough to attach elastic.
1
CATSUIT BACK
MED
MED
4-way
4-way stretch
stretch
1- r -
0
"i!' ";;
C)
.,
..
$"'
I!!
I!! C)
C)
Label the slopers as indicated.
"
.!:
c:
"
'0
$
-r-
·e
I!!
C)
'0
1
CATSUIT FRONT
C>
..
CREATING A LEOTARD SLOPER FROM A CATSUIT
Trace the upper part of the catsuit to just below the crotch. Draw a guideline at the waist. Extend the center front to below the crotch. Square a line in at the crotch.
OODYSUITS. LEOTARDS AND ON ' E- AND TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13
405
,
1112"
Divide the waist to crotch into three
Divide the top line into four parts.
equal parts.
At the intersection, find the bias and draw a guideline. Mark 1%" on the guideline. At the mark closest to the side seam, measure up 'h".
Draw a guideline parallel to the side seams from the first mark. Follow the exact hip curve. Mark the line 'h"
+ W' + W'.
Use these marks when drafting highercut, sexier swimsuits and leotards.
Draw a guideline 1'12'' away from the center front crotch line. Note this line may not line up with points on upper hip line.
Draw a curved line from the side seam to the 'N' mark to the bias line, and blend into the crotch. Create one smooth and continuously curved line.
406
CHAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ON E -
AND TWO-
PIECE SWIMSUITS
LEOTARD SLOPER BACK
Trace the upper part of the catsuit sloper to just below the crotch .
Connect the points with a straight line. Find the middle of the line.
Draw a guideline at the waist. Extend the center front to below the crotch. Square a line from the center back at crotch level. Place the front leotard draft onto the back draft and trace the upper hip guideline and crotch guidelines.
~
~12"+112"
At the middle, measure out:
'12'' for small; 1" for medium; 1 '12'' for large buttocks. Note: the customer may still be Small or Medium, but with large buttocks.
Draw the back leg opening from the crotch to the hip, with a continuously smooth line.
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13
407
Elastic Reductions Elastic. is of crucial importance when designing and creat ~~g swu~1suits. Elastic will help keep the garment snug in e crucial areas of the leg openings, the armholes, a nd even n eckhnes. The reductions for elastic depend on two variables. The first variable depends on where the elastic is placed on th e body. Some areas demand t ight ness, a nd other areas require the elastic to be slightly looser. The other variable is the width of the elastic, si nce wider elastic is much stronger th an t hin elastic. In the past, we would reduce 1" from the front-leg-opening elastic measurement, with no reduction for the back opening, but now most of the industry uses an elastic metering device to attach the elastic, which str etches the elastic evenly a ll the way around. Since the device cannot tell wh ether you a re sewing the front or t he back, the industry h as changed practices to r edu ce the elastic to an even 2" all the way around the leg opening. The seam a llowances for elastic are usually 1/ 1s" more than the width of the elastic. If you have sever al layer s of fa bric wrapping over the elastic (not a very good idea), you may want to allow a little more, about Y32" extra, per layer of fabric being wrapped with the elastic.
11/2" 11/2/ f> .
~
smaller
\ o-.,~~··.
(
.
e~_r.;,.
'"6 .
~..... \ "~;, . f{jF\ ~ no reduction °1~1 ~ for armhole elastic
reduce elastic / by 2" total'-
FRONT LEG OPENING
Cut the elastic 1" smaller than the front leg opening measurement. BACK LEG OPENING
Cut the elastic 1" smaller than the back leg opening measurement.
ARMHOLE, NECKLINE, AND LEG OPENING OPTIONS
To create cover-stitched legs, arms, and neckline: While it is possible to simply coverstitch hem the arm, neck, and leg . if you do ' they will noth be ·11 opentngs, very snug or tight to the body; t ey WI gape and sit away from the body.
You must raise and take in the underarm for a cover-stitched armhole and neckline. However, if you intend to use elastic, binding, or some type of reducing trim, this is not necessary.
408
CHAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE -
AND TWO - P
IECE SWIMSUITS
"7
1/2" seam allowance for covershched edges
112" seam allowance ( for coverstiched
:L
112" seam allowance \ for coverstiched edges
;~ 3/8"
t:z.
seam allowance
L Jfor coverstiched edges 318"
ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH ELASTIC LEGS, ARMS, AND NECKLINE
To draft the asymmetrical bodysuit, the pattern must be traced open, full, not on th e fold.
that will Add seam aII owan ces as illustrated, %" for seams . be sewn to oth er Seams • and '12' for cover-stitched hems.
318" 1/4" seam allowance
for elastic edges
1/4" seam allowance
for elastic edges
elastic by 2" total
•
.
i ll
reduce neckine 318"
... •. •
ill
318"
' 1/4" seam allowance
1/4" seam allowance for elastic edges
for elastic edges 318"
Cut the elastic to the exact measurement of the armhole, without any reductions. Reduce the neckline elastic by 2" total all the way around, 1" smaller than the front and 1" smaller than the back. Reduce the leg opening elastic by 2" total all the way around, 1" smaller than the front leg and 1" smaller than the back leg. Add '/.'' seam allowance for elastic. Serge the elastic to the "wrong" side of the opening, flip once, and then cover-set.
.... •. •
•..
....
:
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS AND ON '
E- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13
409
3/8"
1/4" seam allowance for elastiC edges
114" seam allowance for elastic edges
no reductton reduce neck1n~ for armhole elashc by 318 ..
elastic
2" total
3/8"
reduce elasllc by 2" total
for elast1c leg opening /
'
3/8"
1/4" seam allowance for elastic edges
ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH PICOT ELASTIC ARMHOLE
Picot elastic is the same as regular elastic except that it has a fine lacy edge on one side that helps red uce panty lines. Serge the elastic to the outside of the leg openings, flip once, and then cover-stitch to expose the lace.
Cut the elastic to the exact measurement of the armhole, without any reductions. Reduce the neckline elastic by 2" total all the way around, 1" smaller than the front and 1" smaller than the back. Reduce the leg opening elastic by 2" total all the way around, 1" smaller than the front leg and 1" smaller than the back leg. Add 1/4' seam allowance for elastic.
318" no seam allowance for binding edges
3/8"
ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH BINDING
Cut the binding one-sixth smaller t h an the armhole. Don't add any seam allowance to the arm hole or neckline When applying binding.
nstruction seam allowances to the Do add the normaI co . areas that will have bmd,ng.
..10
~ HAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE - AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
l
i
1/6thsmnllcr
1/6th smnUer
318" 318"
318"
v,
318"
1/6th
smallo~_ _ ]
318"
ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH BANDING
Banding is another method of finishing the armhole and neck edges.
Cut the banding one-sixth smaller than the armhole. Add seam allowances to the armhole and neckline when banding will be attached, as determined by the type of fabric and serger used .
ASYMMETRICAL BODYSUIT WITH SHAPED BANDING
The banding may be shaped for any design.
Shape the banding as required.
.... ......... ...... ....... ..--..
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS 'AND ONe. AND TW O-PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13
411
Lining CROTCH LINING
Cut this lining in self.
Measure up 6".
Serge the top edge unless you're working in nylon spandex or a fabric that will not fray or unravel, in which case the edge should be left raw to reduce read-through.
Square in from the leg opening. Make the top edge of the lining curved so that it is less likely to show a ridge on the right side of the garment.
Leave the top of the lining loose, attaching the lining only at the sides and crotch.
Bikini Tops ADDING A BUST DART TO THE TOP SLOPER
Use the one-way-stretch top sieper to create the bikini top sieper. Because there is nothing stretching the bikini top, it wi ll act almost like a woven fabric; in fact, these slopers may be used with some woven fabrics. You must create a dart in the bikini sieper because when knit fabrics stretch, they tend to do so evenly, with even tension; this means they will tend to flatten the bust shape. The dart can be disguised or hidden later, but must be included in the sieper. The basic top slopers do not have any bust darts built in, so you will need to modify them to create a bust dart in FULL LINING
Cut a full lining in nude tricot lining.
order to draft the bikini top.
CUP DIFFERENCE CHART
.... l>l
.(.
You must first determine the cup size by selecting the measurements from this chart. BUST
--
u
p p E
R
c H E
s T
inches 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 112 38 39 '1> 41 43
30 '12 'I> -'1> - 1 '12 -2 '12 - 3 '1• - 4 '1• - 36 '12 - 37 112 - 40 - 42 112 -45 '1>
31 112 1 112 '12 -'12 - 1 112 - 2 112 - 3 '12 - 36'12 - 36'12 - 39 -41 112 - 44 '1>
-
3 2 112 2 112 1 112 '12 -'12 - 1 '12 - 2 11> 36 '1> 35 '12 38 40 112 43 '1>
33'12 3'1> 2 112 1 112
'I• - '12 - 1 '1> - 36 112 - 34 112 -37 - 39 '12 - 42'12
()
34 112 4 '12 3 112 2 112 1 112 '12 - '12 - 3 6 '12 - 33'12 - 36 - 38'12 - 41 '12
35 '12 5 '12 4 '12 3 112 2'12 1 112
'I• -36 '12 -32 112 - 35 -37 112 -40 112
37 7 6 5 4 3 2 -36'1> - 31 - 33 '12 - 36 - 39
38'12 8 '12 7 '1> 6 112 5'12 4'1> 3'12 -36 112 -29 112 - 32 -34 '1> - 37 112
40 10 9 8 7 6 5 -36'12 -28 - 30 112 - 33 - 36
41 '12 11 '12 10 112 9'12 8'12 7'12 6 '12 - 36'12 - 26 112 - 29 - 31 112 -34'12
43 112 13 '1> 12 '12 11'12 10 '12 9'12 8'12 - 36'12 -24'12 - 27 - 29'12 - 32'12
J:
45 '12 15 112 14 '12 13 112 12 '12 11 112 10 112 - 36'12 - 22'12 - 25 - 27'12 - 30'12
l>
"1l -i
m
-"' :0
OJ
0
c
-
z c
Cup size is determined by the difference between the bust measurement and the upper bust measurement. This chart is demonstrated with different bust measurements. Difference
Up to 1/ 2" AA
Cup size
'12'' to 1 '1• A
1 112 to 2 114 B
2 '12 to 3 114
3 '12 to 4 114 D
c
4 '12 to 5 114
5'12 to 6 114
DD/ E
DDD/ F
6 '12 to 7'!. G
7'12 to 8 114 H
8 '12 to 9 114 I
.....
:E
:E
Cup Size
8
10
12
14
16
Small
Medium
Large
B
'/.
%
1 1% 1% 2 '1•
%
7
% 1 1%
% % 1 314
'I•
D
% % 1 1le 1%
DOle
z
c
(/)
This chart shows the amount needed to increase at the side seam by slashing and spreading.
G H I
l>
0 ' "1l m () m
CUP AMOUNTS
c
0 z m
1 1% 1%
2
314 1 '1e 1 112
1 1% 1%
.....
~.
1e 1 '14 1 7/e 2 1/e
i:(/)
c =i (/)
BODYSUITS, LEOTARD
S , AND ONE
-AND TWo
- PIECE SW IM SUITS
CHAPTER 13
413
I I=
~ span
TOP BLOCK
TOP BLOCK FRONT
FRONT MED (date)
MED (date)
First, find the apex of the bust. Draw a guideline parallel to the center that is half the bust span away from the center front.
Draw a guideline the front half f t,hpara11 el to the center front but away from , o e bust span amount.
~
.9!
j
r,
guideline
bust
span
TOP BLOCK
TOP BLOCK
FRONT
FRONT
MED
MED
(date)
(date)
Measure the bust level to wherever it lands on the guideline; this is your apex.
Stable Moderate Stretchy Super-stretch Rib Bust level
Extra Extra Small
Extra Small
Small
6'12 6% 6% 6'1• 5 7/s
6% 6'/2 6 1/2 6% 6 10
6 7/s 6 3/• 6 3/ • 6% 6'1• 10 '/•
9'1s
From the apex, draw a guideline that extends from the center front to the side seam. This is the line that you will slash and spread to add extra length for the bust.
Medium
7 '1• 7'1• 7
6'1• 6'/2 10 '/2
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
7 112 7 '12 7%
7 7/s 7 7/s
8% 6%
7'1• 67/s 103/ •
7'1s
Large
771• 7'1• 11
6'1• 7 7/a 7 112
11 '/•
414
NO TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS CHAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- A
CUP CORRECTIONS It seems as 1f you could just draw 1n the bust dart as IS, but there IS a slight problem that must be corrected.
Note how the fabric in the illustration creates ripples pulling from the armhole. This happens with any large bust, whether a dart is added or not, and must be corrected. Place another small dart, this one in the armhole. Note: This dart will be pivoted into the bust dart and will not show.
ARMHOLE DART Remove th1s amount as an armhole dart to correct the fit noted prev1ously Cup Size
B
c
D DD DDD/F G H I
2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
4
0 0 0
'12 'I> 'h
'I> '12
6
0
I• 'I> 1 1 1 1 1
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
0
0
'12 1 1'1> 1 112 1 '12 1'12 1 '12
1 '12 2 2 2 2 2
0 1 2
0 1 '1•
0 1 112 3 3'12 3'12
0 1% 3'12 4 4 4 4 4
0 2 4 4 112 4'12 4'12 4 112 4 112
>;.
Once you have determined the amount of the armhole dart, square a guideline from the armhole to the apex.
2'12 2'12 2'12 2'12 2'12
2'12 3 3 3 3 3
3'12 3 112 3'12
Slash and overla th8 the bust dart P . armhole dart as illustrated; note hoW gets slightly larger, also.
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS AND , ONE- AND TWO - PIECE SWIMSUITS
Draw in the bust dart as illustrated.
The bust dart cannot be used as is and must be shortened; otherwise it w ill go right to the apex. Shorten the dart by 1" up to 1'12"; when pivoting the dart to another position to bring the apex back to the original point, remember to shorten the dart again.
Stable Moderate Stretchy Super Rib
CHAPTER 13
415
To determine the bust radius, use the chart below. From the original bust apex, draw in the bust radius, using a compass.
Extra Extra Small
Extra Small
Small
Medium
Large
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
2 1/s 2 '/s 2 1 7/s 1 '/•
2 '/• 2'/• 2 1/s 2 1 7/s
2'1s 2'1s 2'/• 2 1/s 1 7/s
2 '/, 2 112 2 '1s 2'/• 2
2% 2% 2 112 2 3/s 2 1/s
2'/• 2'!. 2% 2'12 2'/•
2 7/s 2 7/s 2'!. 2% 2%
Slash and spread to move the dart to the hem area.
. m the bust apex to the shoulder/neck interDraw a I1ne 1ro section as illustrated. Measure up the line 1".
416
CHAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS AND ONE- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
Lone your ruler up woth the 1" pomt and swong ot unto! ot touches. tangent to the curve of the bust radous.
Repeat for the other side.
lJ
/
Usong an L-square ruler, draw a lone that IS square to the other guodeline and touches the curve of the bust radous
Trace out the cup, and separate.
In order to use the cup with the dart, you must shorten the dart lengths; otherwise, the cup becomes too pointy.
Repeat for the other side.
BIKINI WITH DART AND BINDING This bikini top is finished with self-binding, using the cellarette machine.
In order to use the cup with the dart, you m ust shOrten the dart lengths; otherwise, the cup becomes too pointy.
ElODYSUITS , LEOTARDS AND ' ONE- AND T WO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13
417
0
no seam allowances for binding 1/2"
No seam allowances are required for this style; %" finished binding doesn 't need any.
~he gap between the cups should be a minimu~ of 'li' for reasts that are very close together, and a maximum of 1" for breasts that are far apart.
BIKINI WITH EASE AND BINDING This bikini converts the dart into ease under the bust.
BIKINI WITH A CHANNEL FOR A DRAWSTRING This b'k' 1 · 1n1
top is lined with a spaghetti
~t~ap inserted between the self and the 1010
g to create the tie at the top.
:~~bottom of the bikini has a casing 1 a string inserted inside.
Mark a notch 1" away from the dart legs, one on each side.
Remove the dart and blend a curve. Label the pattern to indicate that you must gather between the two notches to a final measurement of 2".
Fill in the dart by drawing a smoothcurved line along the bottom of the
Add '/.'' seam allowances to the sides to sew to the lining and a '12" seam allowance to the lower edge
draft.
for a casing.
418
CHAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND
TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
BIKINI BOTTOMS AND PANTIES
You may expect that you can just cut off the leotard to create a panty bottom, but remember, the length measurements were reduced to accommodate the lengthwise stretch of the fabric. Once the leotard IS cut, It Will spring back and be lower down on the body. You must create a separate panty sloper that does not have as much lengthWISe reduct1on.
~~
FOUR-WAY-STRETCH REDUCTIONS Note that the crotch depth is multiplied x o.g5, a reduction of 5%, because the four-way-stretch reduction of 10% is too much, and a 0% reduction, as in one-way-stretch, is too little and will cause the crotch to sag.
Multiply by 2 3 4
Waist Hip Crotch depth
X 0.90 X 0.90 X 0.95
...-.... ....... .-., -;
This draft IS for the bikini panty bottom, and should be used with four-waystretch fabrics.
Extra Extra Small
Extra Small
Small
Medium
0
2
6
10
21 1/o 31 9
22 32 9 1/s
23 32 7/s 9 1/4
23 7/o 33 3/. 9%
Large
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
14
18
20
24% 34 % g 1/2
26 1/s 36 9%
27 1/2 37% 9%
I iiii
Iiiii
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS, AND ONE- AND TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
419
CHAPTER 13
1
waist
I
--
~
5
~
~
!
...... ........ .......
....
Draw intersecting lines, and measure the waist amount and the crotch depth amount.
Square a line at the crotch depth, mark wit h the hip measurement, and square a guideline up to the waist.
Extra Extra Small
Extra Small
21 1/a
22 5'12 9 1/a 32 8 9 1/a 3
Waist Quarter of waist Crotch depth Hip Quarter of hip Crotch depth Thirds
5 '1• 9 31 7% 9 3
Small
Medium
23 5%
23 7/a 6 9% 33% 8'12 9% 3 '/a
9'1• 32 7/a
8'1• 9'1• 3 1/a
-r-
Divide the guideline into thirds.
Large
24 3/4
6'1• 9'12 34% 8% 9 '12 3 '/a
Extra Large
Extra Extra Large
26 1/a 6'12 9% 36 9 9% 3'/•
27'12 6 7/a 9% 37% 9% 9% 3'/•
iliiriil
liiilili
li;;itl i;;ll
1
I
........ ~
I
-~
~ ~
,,
_l
waist
waist
I
fj;;ill
1111111
1
waist
-
I
I
I
I I
I
-
I
divide hip into 4
the variform c urve at the waist , b le ndng as Well as possible to the lower rnark on the outseam.
1
Div ide t he upper hip line into four eq ua l sect ions .
I I
_l _l
I
I!+""
'
11/2"
-
-
Draw in the hip c urve by p laci ng #4 of
I
,' '
+-
Mark a guideline 1'12'' from the center front.
420
CHAPTER 13
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS , AND ONE- AND
I
W31SI
1 318'
parallel
- , '
TWO-PIECE SWIMSUITS
waist
:'1,
•-+
'
-/
-
Find the bias in the intersection and measure down 1%".
Draw guideline parallel to the side seam that lines up with the mark on the horizontal guideline.
Measure up the guideline 'h" + 'h" + W.
-. THE BIKINI BACK Draw in the front leg, using connection points 1-2-3-4-5, with a smooth and continuous line.
waist
Find the midd le of the line and mea-
sure out 1/2" + Y2"
1 + 12".
For higher, sexier front legs, use the higher points. Students and new designers often mistakenly raise the side seam s to create a higher leg opening. This will cause the back of the swimsuit to collapse into the buttocks.
waist
Draw a smooth curve for each of the marks, as illustrated.
Trace out the front draft and connect the crotc h poi nt to the hip point with a straight line.
waist
Label the lines as Small, Medium, and Large.
BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS , AND ONE- AND TW
2• 0-PIECE SWIMSUITS
CHAPTER 13
4
blend) ,
...
1/4" bik.nl
bottom sloper M
.,.
..........-.... ....-.. .........
...... ........... ....... ........... ....... ... ~ ~
BLENDING AND TRUEING
Line up the crotch seams across from each other and blend the curve. You will have to increase the size of the crotch by '!;,
%
9 /16
13/16
9 /16
13/16
Once you have determined the amount of the armhole dart, square a guideline from the armhole to the apex.
16
14
12
10
9/ 16
'h
1 3/ 16
1 1>;,.
1%
Slash and overlap the armhole dart as illustrated. Note how the bust dart gets slightly larger also.
Draw in the bust dart as illustrated.
..
• ••
..
'ii
Iii I Ci I I
,-''radiu~~ ..
-·
c
• The bust dart cannot be used as is; it must be shortened, other wise it will go right to the apex. Shorten the dart by 1", up to 1'/2'. When pivoting the da rt to another position, bring the apex back t o the original point and then shorten the dart again.
Stable Moderate Stretchy Super Rib
Extra Extra Small
Extra Small
2 1/s 2 1/s 2
2'/.o 2'/.o 2 1/s 2
1'1s 1%
1'1s
To illust rate the bust radius, use the following ch art.
Small
Medium
large
2% 2% 2V.. 2'/a F/a
2Y2 2Y2 2% 2 '/.o 2
2% 2% 2% 2% 2 1/a
Extra large
Extra Extra Large
2~
2 7/a 2 7/a
2~
2% 21h 2'A
2~
2% 2 '/t
'
'
F I TTING AN
D CORRECTIONS
ott1er Tricks and Corrections to Make a Better Fitting Garment most studentsf think of knit garments , they 1.n1 · store, but thisag1ne 1e1P,_ $10 garments rom h a department · · • . lsn t n ys the case. Althoug kmt garments are 1·n sJ"'a .11 expens1ve a d ·Jy available, you can sti create a versatile a d _n d1 rea ·gner · t h e fit, changing thn attractJVe garmen t bY re fi nmg . deSJ choosmg . qua J"t c b · e amount of 1 y 1a ncs, a 1termg the neck!" . ease, ., fi t 1ne, s11ap1ng gure ypes, and adding custom deta1ls . 1.t to Jlatter d1f1erent . ·s section w1l1 s11ow you some subtle pattern-mak· . · 11 . . mg tncks Tl a more. fiattenng designer-pnced . . and techmques to . create . ~'ent The pnnc1p1e examp1e m th1s section c gar•" · . an be used for anY stretch proJect. \VheJl
special Fabrics For Knit Garments Search for fine quality fabrics with unusual or special £ _ tures. It's also possible ~o use knit fabrics not always thou;~t of as knit garment fabncs, such as stretch velour, panne velvet, wool jersey, cashmere, and fleece. For fall garments use slightly heavier knits, like wool jersey, velour, sweater knits, or thermal cottons. It's not a lways necessa ry to find matching or coordinated rib knits-quality garments can be made using self-fabrics: • Bound necklines • Mock necks • Turtlenecks
• Bound V-necks • Self-facing • Hoods
Fit Corrections If possible, measure a favorite garment, noting the width, amount of ease, length, and any other key measurements. By comparing this garment with your slopers, it's easy to judge and correct any changes. Creating the perfect garment takes a little time and patience, but is well worth the extra effort.
Ease In order to make the new garment fit like the original, you must calculate and allow for the same amount of ease. Calculate the ease intended for the garment style by measuring the pattern from side seam to side seam across the front a nd back at. the bust and hip and then compare the total measurem~~t Withyour persona l' measurements. For examp1e, 1'f the ongl· na! ga rment measures 34" around, an d 1'f your bust measurement i 3 , h ·g·nal gannent s 2 , then you can conclude that t e on 1 . d has 2" of ease. So, if your sloper measures 33 , , you w1!1hnee tou · · 1 T en yo add 1" 0 f ease to create the same fit as the ongma · ld must decide if that a mount of ease should be in the shou er
CHAPTER 14
439
440
CHAPTER 14
FITTING AND CORRECTIONS
re the s houlder s of the r ea M eas U h · to th e sloper. If the s oulder a rea or the undera rm a · orig ina l garme nt, an d compa re th en a ll of th e eas e must b e 1n measu1·ements a re the sa me_. . w ill div ide the a m ount of des1g ne1 the unde•·m·m . Often a h lde r a nd the u nde r ar m , but ocease equa lly bet ween the sd ou t o only t h e sh oulde r a r ea, or casiona lly may n eed to ad ease only to t he unde rarm a re a.
CB
Body Ease
CF
CB
CF
Shoulder Ease
Slash and spread at the underarm to add more ease around the body. Remember to correct your sleeve so that it also fits into the new armhole. Since the ease is placed at the sides of the body, it will not change the fit of the shoulder area or the neck area.
Slash and spread at the underarm to add more ease at the shoulder. Since the ease is placed at the shoulder area, it will not cha nge the silhouette of the garment.
114" 114"
............ CB
CF CF
......._. 1/4"
Back Shoulder Ease Determine your best shoulder width by measuring f: . garments and adjusting the pattern. avorIte For older or larger and stoop-shouldered bodies 'II get a better fit across the shoulders if the back-sh ~~ seam is. '/ 90 X 90
Wnst
Neck Bust span Bust level
90
No reduction
No reduct1on
28 21' El 31 10 1/a 21 3-11 36.11 6 11 ~18 2 2% 1 14 3/4 2 114 3;4 4 7 1a 1 7 /4 21 114 1 114 9% 5 1/a 12 31a 6 1 8 12
2 7/a
1 15 314 2% 314 5 11a 73;, 21 314 1 114 10 314 6 112 12 71a 6 31a 7 8 1a
8 22
1 31a 11 %
?';, 13 631, 1 9 1a
PETITE SIZE FOUR-WAY-STRETCH REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se dtrecllon and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% in both directions. Multiply your across measurements by .90. 1% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twi ll tape to stabillze the seam and prevent 11 from stretch1ng M ultiply Your A c r oss Measurements By
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Ex tra Small
2 Bust Wa1st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
.90 .90 .90 .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction No reduct1on No reducllon No reduction No reduction No reduct ion X .90 X .90 No reduc tion X .90 X .90 X X X X
28 31a 21 11a 31 9% 20'1, 34 314 6 11 71a 2 2 71a 1 14 2'1, 314 4 71a 1 7 14 21 114 1 31a 9 31a 5 11a 13 314 6 9
Small
6 29 114 22 32 9314 20 31a 35 6 12 2 3 1 11a 14 114 2 31a 314 5 7% 21 % 1% 9% 1 5 12 13 71a 6 9
Medium
10 30 11a 23 32 71a 9 71a 20 112 35 114 6 114 12% 2 3 1 11a 14 112 2%
3;.
5 7 112 21 112 1% 10 5 71a 14 6 11a 9'11!
L arge
14 31 7 23 1a 33 314 10 20% 1 3 5 12 6 114 12 112 2 11a 3 11a 1 11a 14 3;. 2% 314 5 7% 21 % 1% 10% 1 6 1• 14 11a 1 6 1• 1 9 1•
Extra L a rge
18 32 24 314 34 % 10 20 314 35 314 6% 12 314 2 11a 3 114 1 2/8 15 2%
3;.
5 11a 7 314 2 1 31• 1% 10 611! 6 112 14 11• 6 311! 9 311!
APPENDIX:
--
MISSES TAL~ STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS
COSTIN G S H EETS
457
nt smaller 1n crossw1se d•rect•on w•thout any reduct 1ons 10 len thw, percemeasurements when drafttng slopers for fabncs that stretch fr~m ~e d•rectton. 5 use th~ ~ur across measurements by 1. 0% smaller, except for the shoulder meto 25%. ~~LIIfrP"') and prevent It from stretchrng. asurement, s•nce the fi ·e the seam •na1garment will have tw• ll t
0
:ero
---~
1
2
3 4 5 6
7 8
9
........
..... .............
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
'7 18 19
20 21
22 23
.............
.. ~
.....,._
..... ~
B•cep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust level
ape to stab•·
Small 2 1 X 1 X 1 X
No reduction No reduction No reduction
1 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 X X
Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch
Extra Small
No reduction No reduction X
1
No reduct1on
1 No reduction X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 No reduction X
1
32 12
24 112 35 112 11 1/4 24% 7
40 1a 7 71a 13%
2 1/4
3 1 1 1a 16'1a 2% 7
1a 4 71a
7 112 24% 1 1 12 10 % 7 5 1a 14 % 3 6 14 10 314
6 34 112 26 112 37 112 11 112 24 71a 41 'Ia 8 1/e 1 14 /e 2'1a 1 3 /a
, ,/e
17%
2 112 7 1a
5 7 3/4 24 % 1% 11 31a 6% 15
7 11
Medium
10 36 112 28 112 39 112 11 3/4
25 11a 41 7/e
8'1a 14 '1a 1
2 12 3 1/4
, ,/4 7
17 /a
2 112
'Is
5 1/a 1 8 /a 24 7/e 5 1 /a 12 11a 7% 15 1/e 7 1/4 11 1/4
Large 14 39 1h 31 1h 42 112 12 25 3/e 42 3/e 8 '1e 15 1/e 2'1e 3 112 3 1 /a 18 3/e 2'1e 7
1o
5% 8 112 25 1/e 1'1e 12 7/e 8 1/e 15 3/e
7%
11 1h
Extra Large
18 42 1h
34 \7 45 112 12 1/.t 25';, 7 42 /e
8 7/e 15 % 2'1e 3 3/4 1% 18 7/e 2'1e
';,
5'1e 8 7/e 25 3/e 13/.t
t3'1e 8 7/e 15 5/a 8 11 3/4
MISSES TALL MODERATE REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%. Multtply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabillze the seam and prevent 1t from stretching. Multiply Your Across Measurements By
~
~
eust warst HIP Crotch depth Waist to knee wa 1st to ankle Ankle
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Wa1st Htp Crotch depth Watst to knee Watst to an kle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust lever
X .98
.98 .98 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X
X
No reduction No reduction
.98 No reduction X .98 No reduction X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction X
Extra
Extra Small
Small
Medium
2
6
10
14
18
7
3 33 1• 26 36 314 11 112 24 71a 41 'Ia 8 13 71a 2 114 3 1 11a
35 '1< 28 3 38 1•
38 31• 7 30 /e 41 'Is 12 25% 42% 1 8 12 14 7/a 2 '1s 1 3h
41 '1s 33 3/4
31 1a 24 34 314 11 114 24 % 40 71a 7 314 13 318 1 2 1a 2 71a 1 16 71a 2'12 7
1a 4 1a 7
7 112 24 31a 1 112 10 % 5 314 14 31a 6 112 10 112
17'1a 1
2 12 7
1a
5 7 314 24'1s 1 112 1 11 1a 1 6 12 14 '1s 6 3/4 10314
11 3/4 1
25 1a 41 71a
a't• 14% 2 '1s
3 1/ 4 1
1 /4
17 71a 1
2 12
Large
,,;..
18'1s 2'1s 7
1a
7
1a
5 11a 8 11a 24 71a 1% 11 'A> 7'/4 7 14 1a 7 11
Large
44 518 1 12 /4
25'1s 42 7/e 8 3/4
153/e 23/• 3 3/4 1'1s 18 7/a 2'1s
'Ia
5% 8'12 25 1/a 1'1s 12% 8 15 1/a
5 '1s 8 7/a 25% 1'1s 13 3/o 8 3/• 15 3/o
7'1a
1t 1h
11
1 /•
73/•
M'l'liNOI
COSTING SHEETS
MISSES TALL STRETCHY REDUCTIONS
dtrect 1on.
reductions '" lengthwise %. . ent will have twill tape to stabiT ''t't' Pl"'rcent smaller'" crossw•se direction without a;y that stretch from so% to 75 nt since the final garm u~e these measurements when draft•ng slopers for fa ncs t for the shoulder measureme , M~lhply your across measurements by .97, 3% smaller, excep Extra h:e the seam and prevent 1t from stretchmg. Large Large
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
Extra Small
2 1
2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Warst
H1p Cro1ch depth Warst to knee Warst to ankle
.97 ' .97 X .97 X
No reductron No reductron No reductron
Ankle Knee
X
Front crotch
X
Back crotch Crotch angle
' X
Nape to wa1st
Back neck Back neck rrse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust level
X
97 97 97 97 97
No reductron No reductron X .97
No reductron X
.97
No reductron X
.97
X 97
".97 )( .97 X .97 No reduction
31 23 ·,. 3 34 1 • 11
/4
24% 7
40 18
7'.rs 13 1/4 2 1/o 2 '18 1 16 7/8 2 112 7/8 4 7/e 1
7 12
24 318 1 112 10 1/4 5 3/4 14 1/4 6 112 10 3/8
small
6 33 1/z 25 314 36'1e 11 , 2 24 116 41 J/8 7 118 13 3/4
2 1/4 3 t 1/8 17 3/8 2 1/2 7/8
5 7 3/4 24% 1 1/2 11 6% 14 112 6 3/4 10%
Medium 10 27% 38% 11 3/4 1 25 /e 41 7/8 8 118 14 1/e 2 3/8 3 1/4 1 1/4 17 7/s 2 1/2
7/s 5 1/e
a
1 /8
24 7/s
1s/8 t1 3/4 7 1/8 14 3/4
7
7
10 /s
14
18
30 112 41 1/4 12 25% 42 %
41 1/• 33 112 44 1/e 12 1/4 25% 42 7/8
a%
14 % 2% 3% 1 1/4 18% 2% 7/8
5% a'/2 25 1/s t% t2 112 7% 15 7% 1t
a%
15 1/8
2 3/4
3% t% 1a 7/8 2% 7/8
5% 8 7/s 25 % t% t3 1/4
a% 1
15
/4
7 3/4
t1 3/8
MISSES TALL SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller'" crossw1se d~rect1on w1thout any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when draft10g slopers for fabncs that stretch from 75% to 100%. Multiply your across measurements by 95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabihze the seam and prevent 1t from stretch1ng. Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2 3 4 5
6 7
a 9 tO tt t2 t3 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Wa1st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .95 X .95 ".95 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction No reduction X .95 No reduction X .95 No reduction X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction
Extra Small
Extra Small
2
6
30 7/e 23 1/4 33 3/4
32 3/4 25 1/e 35 % 1 t1 h 7 24 /e 4t % 3 7 /4 t3 % 2 1/4 3 1 1/8 t7 % 1 2 12
1t 1/4 24 5/ e 40 7/e 7 112 t3 2 1/8 2 3/4 1 16 7/e 1 2 12 7 18
4 7;. 7 112 24 % 1 112 10 5% 14 6% t0 1/8
7 18
5 73;, 24% t 112 103;.
s';,
t4 1/8 6% 10%
Medium
Large
Large
10
14
18
34 % 27 37 112 tt % 1 25 /e 4t 7/ e 8 t3 7/8 2% 3 1/8 t 1/ 8 17 7/8 1 2 12
37 12 30 40 % t2 25% 42% 8 1/ 4 14% 1 2 12 3% 1 '1. 183/8 2%
1
40% 32 % 1 43 /4 12 1/ 4 25% 7 42 / 8 8% 7 14 /8 2 3/4
7/a
5 '1e 8 1/8 24 7/8 1 1 12 1 11 12 7 14% 7 6 /e 10 %
3% 1% 7 18 /8 2%
7/8
7/8
s% 8 'h 1 25 /e 1% 12 1/4 7 3;. 14 % 7,/s 7 10 /s
5% 7 8 /8 25% 1% 13 8 3/i 147/i 1 7 12 1 11 /i
•• •• •• • I
APPENDIX:
COSTING S H EETS
459
TALLRIBREDU~C~T~IO~N~S~========---------------------------------MISSE5
r 1n crossw1se
d~rect1on without any reductions in lengthw ise directio
. •t"t'··ct'nt :;nutl~:ments wt1en draftmg slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% and over. n. t f*Se m~su measurements by .90, 10% smaller, except for the shoulder me l
.:~ tpl\ rour across d prevent It from stretching.
---~•'-''t'
5ts~'hz•
;
3 4
~
7 8 9 0
~1
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust waist HiP crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck . Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
en
E xtr a Small
2 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduct1on No reduction No reduction X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction No reduction X .90 No reduction X.90 No reduction X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 N o reduction
f~nal garm t .
asurement, s•nce the
me seam an
29 114 22 32 1 11 14 24%
40 11a
7 12 114 2 2% 1 7 16 1a 1 2 12 7 1a 7
4 1a 1 7 12 24 % 3 1 1a
9'1. 5'1• 1
13 14 6 9%
Small 6
Medium 10
31 23 7/a 33 3/4 1 11 12 7 24 /a 41 % 7 3;. 12 314 1 2 1a 7 2 1a 1 17% 1 2 12 7
1a
5 3 7 14 24 'Ia 3 1 1a 10 ';. 6 13% 1 6 14
9 71a
Will
have twill tape to
Extra Large
Large 14
32 11a 25% 1 35 12 11 314 25 1/a 41 7/a 7'12 1 13 /a 2 1/ 4 3 1 1/a 7 17 /a 1 2 12 7 /a
5'1• 1
8 /a 7 24 /a 1 1 12 11 6% 5 13 1a 1 6 12 10
18
35 1;, 28 113 38 114 12 25 31a 42 3/a 7 314 13% 2 3/a 3 1/4 1 1 /4 18 3/a 2%
'Ia
38 114 3t 41 12 114 25 5/a
42 11a 8 14 1 2 12 3 3/a 1 1/4
18 7/a 2% 1
5% 1 8 12 25 1/a 1 1 12 11% 3 7 /a 7 13 1a 6 314 10 114
1a
5%
a';•
25 31a 1 112 1 12 /4 8 14
?'Ia 1
10 12
MISSES TALL FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions. Mulliply your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, in both directions. Multiply Your Across Measurements By
4
5 6
7 8 9 to 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21
22
23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span
~
No No No No No No
No
X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 reduction reduction reduction reduction reduc tion reduction X .90 X .90 re duction X .90 X .90
Extra Large
Extra Small
Small
2
6
10
14
18
1
1
31 23 'Is 3 33 14 11 23% 1 39 1• 7% 3 12 /4 1 2 1e 1 3 18 1 1 1a 1 16 12 1 2 12
32 3 24 14 34 'Ia 11 23% 1 39 12 7% 13 1 2 18 1 3 14 1 1 14 3 16 14 2 112
32 /s 25% 1 35 12 1 11 la
29 14 22 32 3 10 /4 23 % 7 38 1e 7 1 12 14 2 3 1 1 1a 16 1 2 12 7
1a
7
4 1a 1 7 12 24 % 1 1 12 9% s';. 14 % 6 1 10 1a
30 18 23 7 32 1• 10"1. 1 23 12 39 1
7 1• 1
12 12 2 3 1 1 1• 1 16 /4 1 2 12
Medium
5 7% 1 24 12 1 1 12 10 s% 14 3/4 1 6 /a 1 10 /4
'Is
7
1s
7
1a
Large
5 3 7 14 24% 1% 10
'I•
6 15 1 6 /4 10%
5
8
7
23' "• 39 14 3
7 112 1 13 /8
2'1s
3 218 1 1 1• 17 2'.12 11a
5'/B
s'~s
3
24 /4 1518
10% 1 6
/•
15 6 3/a
1
10 12
24 7,~ 1% 11 6% 1
15 /B 1 6 12 10%
460
APPENDIX
COSTING SHEETS
WOMEN'S SIZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS s m lengthwtse direct•on. . Zero percent smaller'" crosswose d~rectJon Without any ;educt•o~retch from 0% to 25%. nee the final garment woll have twill tape to stabiUse these measurements when drafting slopers for fabncs that 5 h lder measurement, 51 Mull1ply your across measurements by 1. 0% smaller. except for the 5 ou
Extra
lize the seam and prevent 1t from stretch•ng.
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
Extra Small
2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist
H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X X X
1 1 1
No reduction No reduction
No reduction " 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 No reduct1on No reduction X 1 No reduction X 1 No reduction X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 No reduction
43 35 46 11 314 24 38% 10 18 11a 7 2 16 3 716 1 112 16% 3 1 s% a% 7 23 16 1 112 14 112 7 116 17 114 8 12 114
small
6 47 39 50 15 314 24 114
38 716
10 112 18% 3% 4 11s 1% 17 11s 3 112 1%
s% a'Is 1
Medium
L a rge
10
14
18
51 43 54 3 19 1• 24 112 39 116 11 18% 3 716 1 4 12 1 516 17% 4 1 3/7
55 47 58 23 314 24 314 3g 31s 11 112 18 71a 4 31s 4'ls 2 1 18 16 4 112 1 1 12 6 9% 24 % 1 2 14 16 314 9% 19 112 8 314 13%
59 51 62 27 314 25 39% 12 1 19 1s
5 71a
24 16 1 314 15 114 7 71a 18
9 24% 2 16 a% 18 314
12 314
13 14
a'l•
Large
a'h 1
4 716 1
5 1s 2 31s 18% 5 1 112 1 6 16 9% 7 24 1a 1 2 12 1 17 12 1 10 1s 20 114 9 14 114
WOMEN'S SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller 1n crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%. Multiply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabolize the seam and prevent it from stretchmg.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
Extra Small 2
X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction X .98 No reduction X .98 No reduction X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction
42 116 34 114 45 11 314 24 38% 9 314 17 314
2 716
3 314 1% 16 5;. 3 1 5% a% 23 716 1 112 14 114 7 7 16 1s
7 71a
12
Small
Extra L arge
M edium
Large
6
10
14
18
46 38 114 49 15 314 24 114 38 71s 10 114 18 1 3 14 4 1 '14 17 116 3 112 1 31s 53;.
50 42 116 53 19'1. 24 112 1 39 1s 10% 1 18 14 3% 4% 1% 17% 4 1 31e 7 5 18 9 24% 2 15%
7
57-'s 50 60 3 • 3 27 '• 25
8 71a
24 11e 1 314 15 73;. 17% 8 12%
a'n 3
18 /e 8 3/e 13
53 18 46 56 718 23% 24% 39 % 1 11 1• 18 112 4 43... 2 18 118 4 112 1 112 6 9 318 24% 1 2 1• 16 3/e
'I•
9'1• 19 8 5/e 13 3/e
39 5 ~
,,s. .
3 18 •• 4 3'• 5 2'.•
18 5 ~ 5 ,·~ 6 118 95/o 24 7/o
2'1.1 1
17 /e 10 19 3.4
,,,.
14
-APPENDIX:
woMEN ~IZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS cant smaller in crosswtse d~rectton wtthout any reductions in len
.
use these ur across measurements by .97, 3% smaller, except for the shout SO Yo to 75%. der measurement sin Mult iply Your Acr oss M easure m ents By
,
.
ce the fmal garment will
Extr a Small
have twill tape to stabi-
______------------------------~~~~----~~~------~S~m~a~~~~------~~~ Medium 2
6 10 _____-------------------~X~.9~7~--------~~~------~~-----===~==41 %
Bust Waist Hip crotch depth Waist to knee 5 Waist to ankle 6 Ankle 7 Knee 8 Front crotch 9 Back crotch 10 crotch angle 11 Nape to waist 12 Back neck 13 14 Back neck rise 15 Shoulder length 16 Across back 17 Sleeve length 18 Shoulder pitch 19 Bicep 20 Wrist Neck 21 22 Bust span Bust level 23 1 2 3 4
x ·97
X .97 No reduction No reduction No reduction x .97 x .97 X .97 X .97 x .97 No reduction No reduction x .97 No reduction x .97 No reduction X .97 X .97 x .97 X .97 x .97 No reduction
34 44% 11 % 24 38% 9'1• 17 % 2 3/4 3 3/ . 1 3/e 16% 3 1 5% 8% 23 7/ e 1 112 14 7 16% 7 3/ 4 11 7/e
461
~----
Th~ per measurements when drafttng slopers for fabrics that stretch fro~1hwt~e direction. MultiplY yo and prevent 11 from stretchmg. liZB the seam
COSTING SHEETS
45 % 37 7/e 48 112 153;. 24 1/4 38 7/ e 10 1/e 17 7/e 3 1/4 4 1 1/4 17 1/e 3 112 1% 5'1• 8 7/e 24 1/e 1'1• 14 3;. 7% 17 3/e 8 1 12 /•
49 112 41 314
52% 19 3/4 24 112 39 1/e 10% 18 3 3/4 4 3/a 1% 17% 4 1% 5 7/a 9 24% 2 15 112 8 3/a 18 1/a 1 8 /• 12 3/4
Large
14
Extra Large
18
------::=-:;-------------2~3 53 /e 45 % 56 1/4
23 3;, 24 3;, 39 3/e 11 1/e 18 1/4 1
4 /4 4 3/4
2 18 1/a 4 112 1';, 6 9 3/a 24'1e 2 114 16 1/4 9 18 7/a 8 112 13 1/•
57 1/•
49 1/2 60 1/e 27 3/. 25 39 % 11 % 18 112
4 3/4
5 2 1/4 18% 5 1 112 6 1/e 9'1e 24 7/e 2 112 17 9 7/e 19% 8 3/ 4 13 3/•
WOMEN'S SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics t hat stretch from 75% to 100%. Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabihze the seam and prevent it from stretching. Extra Extra Multiply Your Across Large Large Medium Small Small Measurements By 18 14 10 6 2 1 56 1 52 /• 48 12 1 Bust 44% 48 1h 40 7/s X .95 44 '1e 40 7/e 2 Waist 37 58 7/e 33 1/4 1/4 X .95 55 1 51 3 Hip 47 12 27 3/• 43 3/4 X .95 23 3/• 19'1< 4 Crotch depth 15'1. 25 11 3/4 1 24% No reduction 24 /2 5 Waist to knee 39% 24 1/4 39 3/a 24 No reduction 7 39 1/a 11 % 6 Waist to ankle 38 /a 1h 11 38% No reduction 10 18 1/e 7 Ankle 10 3 18 9 112 X .95 1 17 / • 4% 8 Knee 17 12 4 '/e 17 1/4 X .95 3% 5 9 3 3 1/4 4% 1 Front crotch 2 /• / 4 4 X .95 2 1/4 10 Back crotch 4 17/e 3% 1% X .95 1/4 1 18% 11 1 18 /e Crotch angle 1% 1 17% 5 X .95 12 4 1h 17 /a Nape to waist 16% 11h 4 No reduction 13 1 1h 3 112 Back neck 6'/e 3 1'1s No reduction 14 6 1'1s g'/e Back neck rise 1 5 7/e 3 X .95 15 9% 5 /• 24 7/e 5% 9 7 No reduction 16 Shoulder length 24% 8 /e 2'1e Across back s% 24% 1 17 X .95 2'/a 7 24 /a 16 51e Steeve length 2 23 /s 3 ta No reduction 16 1 1 1 /• g'le Shoulder pitch 15 /4 1 12 1 t9 9 X .95 1 14 h 19 11e B1cep 1 8 /• 13 3/4 1 18 1l 20 Wrist X .95 7 1h 8 12 173/• 6"1• 21 X .95 17 13 1h Neck 8 16% 13 22 X .95 1 7 7/a 12 1l 7% 23 Bust span X .95 12 Bust level 11 % No reduction
e•te
46~
·\l'f'LNOI'\
COSTING SHEETS
WOMEN 'S SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS h ut an reductions in lengthwise dtrec tJon.
len percent smaller 'n cross;IS~ d•~~~~~o~o";,'!r~ for flbncs that stretch 100% and over. t since the final garment will have twill tape to O% ller except for the shoulder measuremen ' Multiply your across measurements by .90. 1 sma · stabilize the seam and prevent Jt from stretChing. Extra Use these measurements w en ra
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Wa1st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
.90 ' .90 X .90 X
No reductiOn No reduct1on No reductiOn
.90 .90 X .90 > .90 )( .90 X
X
No reduct1on No reduct1on
)( .90 No reduction X
.90
No reduction X X X X X
.90 .90 .90 .90 .90
No reduction
Extr a Small
2 38 314 31 112 41 % 11 314 24 38% 9 16 % 2% 3 1/2 1 1 1• 16% 3 1 5% a%
23%
1% 13 s% 15 112 7 114 11
Small
6 42 11• 1
35 1s 45 15 314 24 11• 38 71s 9 112 16 112 3 3 3/4 1 1/s 17 'Ia 3 112 1% 5'1. a 71s 24 11s 1% 13 3/4 7 16 11s
?'Is
11 %
Medium
L a rge
10
14
18
49 112 42 11• 52 1/4 23 31• 24 ';. 39% 10% 17 4 4% 1 3/4 1a 1/s 4 112 1 112 6 9 31s 24% 2 15
53 1/s 45 7/s 55 3/4 27 3/4 25 39% 10 3/4 17 1/4 4 3/s 4 5/s 2 1a% 5 1 112 6 1/s 9% 24 7/s 2 114 15% 9 1/s 1a 1/8 8 12 314
7
45 1s 38% 48% 19 314 24 112 39 11s 10 16 314 3 112 4 1 112 17% 4 1 31s 5 7/s 9 24% 1% 14 31s 7314 16 718 7% 11 %
a'l2
17 112
?'Is
12%
large
WOMEN 'S SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller in crossw1se direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions. Multiply your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, 1n both directions. Multiply Your Ac ross Measure ments By
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 a 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction
X .90 X .90 No reduction
X .90 X .90
E xtra Small
Sma ll
M ed ium
L a r ge
Extra La rge
2
6
10
14
18
3a% 31 1/2 41% 11 'Ia 22% 36 314 9 16 318 2% 3 7/ s 1 112 15% 3 1 5% a% 23 7/8 1 112 13 6% 17 114 7 1/4 11 %
40 112 33 114 43 1/4 13 23 36 718 9 11• 16% 2 7/8 4 1 1h 16 3'1. 1% 5% a% 24 1% 13% 6% 17% 7 318 11 7/8
42 114 35 1/8 45 15 23 37 9 112 16 112 3 4 1/8 1% 16 1/4 3 112 1% 5% 8 7/8 24 'Ia 1 3/4 13% 7 18 7% 12
44 118 36 718 46 3/4 16 7/8 23 'Ia 37 9% 16% 3'1. 4 3/8 1 112 16 112 3 3/4 1% 5 7/s 9 24 1/4 2 14 7% 18% 7'1l! 12 2!\
45 7/8 3a% 4a % 18 3/4 23 1/ 4 37 'Ia 10 16% 3 112 4 112 1% 16% 4 1'1s
s'ls
9 24% 2 14 3!\ 7 3/• 18 3/• 7 5,.\ 12 1h
APPEND I X : COSTING SHEETS
463
S SIZES STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS
pt.lJ
ent smaller 1n crossw1se d1r~ct1on without any reductions m len zerO perc measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabncs that stretch frgthw1se direction. v e these asurements exactly as recorded w1thout any reductions om 0% to 25%.
~~5
------1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
11
..... = = ............ ....... ............... ..... .............. ~
~ ~
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
sus! WaiSt HiP crotch depth Waist to knee wa1st to ankle p.nkle Knee Front crotch sack crotch crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck sack neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust level
Multiply Your Across
Measurements By
X 1 X 1 X 1
No reduc tion No reduction No reduction X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 No reduction No reduction X 1 No reduction X 1 No reduction X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 X 1 No reduction
. 1X
2X
16
20
41 33 44 11 'Ia 24 39 % 9% 18 11a 2 31• 3% 1 17 2 314 1 5 112 3 8 1a 1 32 1a 1 112 3 13 /4
6 '1• 16'1. 7 314 11 7/a
3X
4X
24
45 37 48 15% 24 'I• 39 71a 10 'Ia 18 31a
49 41 52 195;. 24 ';, 40 1/a 10%
3 3/4 4'1a
4 1 'I• 3 15 1• 1 3 1• 1 31a
11~/e
19 1/e
4 3/4
4'18 2 16314
1
16 1•
3 3/4
5
2 1/4
n't•
1
4 /4
1 31a
s'l• 7
8% 32 31a 3 1 1• 14 112 7 'lz 17 112 8 3 12 1a
57 49 60 27'1• 25 40%
4 1/4
t 'la
s'le
32
53 45 56 23 518 24 314 40'1. 1 11 /e 18 718
t8sl,
3 1/4
sx
28
8 1a
32 % 2 15 114
8'1• 1
18 1• 1 8 1• 7 12 1a
43/.1
131a 571a 1 9 18 32 718
1112 6 9318 33 118 2 112 1631• 9 3/4 19 3/4 83/ 4 13 718
2 1/4
16 9 19 1 8 12 13'1s
PLUS SIZES MODERATE REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller in c rosswise d irection without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements w hen d rafting slopers for fabrics that stretc h from 25% to 50%. Multiply your across measurements by .98, 2% smaller, exc ept for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent it from stretching. M u ltip ly Your A c r oss M e a surem e nts By
Bust Waist Hip 4 Crotch depth 5 Waist to knee 6 Waist to ankle 7 Ankle 8 Knee 9 Front crotch 10 Back crotch 11 Crotch angle 12 Nape to waist 13 Back neck 14 Back neck rise 15 Shoulder length 16 Across back 17 Sleeve length 18 Shoulder pitch 19 Bicep 20 Wrist 21 Neck 22 Bust span 23 Bust level
X .98 X .98
X .98 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 x .98 No reduction No reduction X .98 No reduction X .98 No reduction X .98 X .96 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction
sx
2X
3X
4X
1X
20
24
28
16 40 'Ia 32 '1s 1 43 /a 11 % 24 39% 9 '1s 3 17 1• 3 2 1• 3% 1 17 2 3/ 4 1 1 5 12 8 '1s 1 32 1a 1 'h 1 13 12 s% 3 16 / a 7 '1s 11 'Ia
44 'Ia 1 36 1• 47 15% 24 7 39 1a 10 18 1 3 1a 4 1 3 15 1• 3 'I• 1 31a 5%
'I•
'I•
6 51a 3
32 1a 3 1 /• 14 'Is 3 7 1a 17 'Ia 7 7/a 1 12 /a
48 1 40 1a 51 19% 1 24 /2 40 'Ia tO% 1 18 1• 3% 1 4 1• t 'le 1 16 1• 3 31• 3 1 1•
s'l• 7
6 1a
32 % 2 15 8 17'/a 8 5 12 /a
32 7
52 44 'Ia 7 54 1e 23're 24 31• 3 40 1• 11 1 t8 12 4 'Ia 4're 2 3 16 1• 4 t 31a
'I•
5711•
9 1• 7 32 18 1 2 1• tS're 8'/a t8 '18 8' /a 1 13 /a
55 1• 48 58 31• 27're 25 40're 11 31• t 8 31• 4'18
5 2 'I• 1 17 1• 431• t 112 6 9'18 33 '18 1 2 12 16318 9'1> t9'rs 8'.18 5 13 /a
464
APPENDIX:
COSTING SHEETS
PLUS SIZES STRETCHY REDUCTIONS any reductions in lengthwise direc~ ion .
sm~~ents when drafting slopers for fabncs that stretch from 50% to 75l-6,;,ent, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabir '" crosswise direction without
ij'reehpercent
se t ese measur Multiply your across measurements by .97 . . 3% smaller· except for the shoulde r m easure hze the seam and prevent it from stretching.
Multiply Your Across Measurement s By
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 a 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 1a 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist
Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee
Waist to ankle Ankle Knee
Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97
No reduction No reduction X
.97
No reduction X
.97
No reduction X X X X X
.97 .97 .97 .97 .97
No reduction
1X 16 39 3/4 32 42% 11 % 24 39% 93/a 17% 2% 3 112 1 17 2 3/4 1 5 112 a% 32 1/a 1 112 13 3/a 6 112 16 1/4 1 7 /2 11 112
sx
2X
3X
4X
20
24
28
32
51 % 43 % 54 113 23 % 24 % 40 % 10 3/4 1a 1/4 4 1/a 4 112 2 16 3/4
ss '; , 47 112 sa•;, 27 % 25 40 % 11 1/4 1a 112 4% 4 7/a 2 1/4 17 1/4 4 3/ 4 1 1 12 6 9% 33 1/a 2 112 16 1/ 4 9 112 19 1/a a 'l2 13 112
43 % 35 7/a 46 112 15 % 24 1/4 7 39 /a 9 7/a 17 7/a 3 1/a 7 3 /a 1 '/• 15 % 3 1/4 1 3/a s% a% 32 3/a 1% 14 1 7 /4 17 7 3/4 12
47 112 39 3/4 50 112 19% 24 112 40 1/a 10 1/4 1a 3% 4 1/ 4 1% 16 1/4 3 3/4 1 3/a s 3;, a7!a 32 % 2 14 3/4 a 17 3/4 a 12 112
4 1/4 1 3/a 7 5 /8 9 1/a 32 7/8 2 1/ 4 15 112 a 3/4 1a% a•;, 13
PLUS SIZES SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller in crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%. Multiply your and across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam prevent it from stretching. Multiply Your Across Measurements By 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 a 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 1a 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
.95 .95 .95 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction No reduction X .95 No reduction X .95 No reduction X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction X X X
1X
2X
3X
4X
2
6
10
14
18
so% 42 % 1 53 / 4 23% 24 3/4 40 % 10 % 18 4 4% 1 7.Je 16 3/4
54'-s 4 46 ·11 57 5 27 18 25 40 5·8 11 18 118 4 '.~ 4 3; .
39 31% 41 3/4 11% 24 39 % 9 1/a 17 1/4 2% 3 112 1 17 2% 1 5 112 8 3/a 32 1/a 1 112 13 6 3/a 16 7 3/a 11 ';.
42 3/4 35 1/a 45% 15% 24 1/4 39 7/a 9% 17 112 3 3 3/4 1 1/4 15 3/4
3 1/4 1% s% a% 32% 1 3;, 13 3; , 1 7 /e 16% 7% 3 11 /•
1
46 12 39 49 % 19% 24 112 40 1/a 10 17 3/4 3% 4 1/a 1 112 16 1/4 3 3/4 1% s3;. 8 7/8 32 % 2 14 112 7''8 17 '/8 7 718 12 ';.
4'.-. 1% 7 5 -8 9',a 32 7'8 2 1,11 15',~ 8 '1!! 18 8 12 31•
sx
2''" 17'. 4 3,. 1' ~
6 93>& 33 '~ 23/8
16
9 11•
18 3/• 8 '-'
13 1, .
. ........ ...
... • till
APPENDIX: COSTING SHEETS
pLUS
465
SIZES RIB REDUCTIONS -
Uer 10 crossw1se direction w 1thout any reduct 1ons In len th
,.f', percent sm:Urements when draft1ng slopers for fabncs that stretch ~OO~se direction. list these m,e;cross measurements by .90. 10% smaller, except for the shouldand over. ~·~.~lt•P'~ )'OU am and prevent 11 from stretch1ng. er measurement. since th tabth:e these
5
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
-=== '
5 6 7
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 !6 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
sus! Warst H1p Crotch depth wa 1st to knee wa1st to ankle p.nkte Knee Front crotch sack crotch Crotch angle
Nape to wa•st Back neck
Back neck rrse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust jevel
1X
2X
2
6
".90 " .90 X .90 No reduct1on
36'/s 29 3;, 39 5/s
40 1'2
No reduction No reduction
24 39% 8 5/s 16 3/s 2 112
X 90 X .90 X .90 X 90 X .90
No reduct1on No reduction X .90
No reduct•on X .90
No reduct1on X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduct1on
11 51s
3 114 1
/a
17 2'1. 1 1 5 /2
a'Is
32 1/s 1 3/s 12% 6 15 7
10 3/4
1 1. 43 1/ ..
33
15 511! 24 1/ • 39 7/s 1 9 /s 16 1h 3 3% 1 t;. 15 3/4 3 1/• 1% 5% s% 32 % 1% 13 6 3/4 15 3/4 1 7 /• 11 1/s
e final garment w 11 ' have twttl tape to
3X 10 44 1le
36 711!
463;. 19 5/s 24 1h 40 1/a 9% 16 3;, 3'1'8 3 '1'8 1 'h 16 1/4 3 3/4 13/e 5';, 8 7/s 32% 1 7/s 13 3/4
7'1'8
16 3/s 7% 11 %
4X 14 47 3,,.
40 11:! 50 3/s 23'1. 24 3tt 3
40 -'8 10 17 7 3 1o 4';. 1 3/~
163;,
4'; . . 1'1e
5 7/e
1 9 /e 32 7/e 2 14% 8 17'1'8 7% 12
sx 18 51 1.'4 44 1 ~&
54 27 5/a 25 40\'8 10 \"1
17 ''• 1 4
.'. t
4 1h 2 17 1l• 43;.
1'7 6 9 3/a 33 1111
2'/.t 15
8 3/4
17 3/4 7 1/e 12 11:!
PLUS SIZES FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se direction and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when draftlng slopers lor labrics thai stretch 100% in b oth directions. Mutt1pty your across measurements by .90, 10% smaller, in both direclions.
..,. ---
...........
..... ............. ....
............ ... ~
-~
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist Hip Crotch dep1h Wa1s1 to knee wa,st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X.90 X .90 X.90 X.90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduc tion No reduc tion No redu c tion No reduction No reduction No reduction X .90 X .90 No re d uction X .90 X .90
5X
2X
3X
4X
2
6
10
14
18
7 36 /s 29'1. 39% 11 22 3/4 37% s% 3 16 /s 1 2 /2 3% 1 1 16 /o 3 2 /• 1 1 5 12
3 38 /•
1 40 12 33 1/4 43 1/4 14 7/e 23 7 37 /e 9'1'8 1 16 h 3 4 1 1/• 15 1 3 /• 1'!'8
1 42 /• 35 1/s 45 16 3/4 1 23 /8 38 9'1:> 16'1s 3 1/s 4 1/s 1 112 1 15 /• 1 3 12 1'1s
44 1111
1X
a'Is 1
32 / 8 1 112 12 '1s 6 16'1< 7 11 1/4
1 31 12 41 'Is 13 23 3 37 /•
a'l•
16'1s 2 3/ 4 3 '1• 1 1/s 14 3/• 3 1%
s'ls 1
8 12 1 32 /• 1'1s 3 12 /• 6% 1 17 /8 7 1 11 12
s'ls a% 32 '1'8 3 1 /• 13
s'1l•
17 12 1 7 /• 11 3/4
s'l•
8 3/• 1 32 12 2 13'1'8 7
17 118
7'1'8 12
1
36 1• 46% 18'18 1 23 /• 38 1/a 9'18 t6 3/• 3'111 4'1a 1'111 1 15 h 3 3/• 1'1s
s'l• 1
8 /a 32 '111 2 13 3/4 7'111 t8 1/• 7 3/1 1 12 /4
466
APPENDIX:
COSTING SHEETS
Half Sizes HALF SIZES STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS . reductions in lengthwise d~rection. Ten percent smaller In crosswise direction w•tho~t a;ybrics that stretch from 0% to 25% . Use these measurements when drafting slopers or a Use your measurements as recorded without any reducuons.
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Bust Waist
Htp Crotch depth Waist to knee Wa1st to ankle
X X X
No reduc tion No reduc tion No red uction
Ankle
X
Knee Front crotch Back crotch
X
Crotch angle Nape to waist
Back neck Back neck rise
Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pttch Bicep Wrist Neck Bust span Bust level
1 1 1
X
X X
1 1 1 1 1
No reduction No reduction X
1
No reduction X
1
No reduction X 1 X1 X1 X1 X1 No reduction
Ex tra
Medium
Large
Extra Large
Small
Small
14 112
18 112
22 1/2
26 112
30 112
45 36 112 48 15 1/a 22% 37 112 10 1/a 17 112 3 1/4 4 1 1/4 16 3 1/4 1 3/a 5% 8% 22 112 1% 14 112 7 112 1 17 12 8 7 11 /a
49 40 112 52 19 1/a 22 7/a 37 3/4 10% 17 3/• 3 '1. 4 'ts 1% 16 112 3 3/4 1 'ts 5 3/ • 8 7/a 22 3/ 4 2 15 1/ 4 8 1/ • 18 1/ 4 1 8 1• 12 'ts
53 44 112 56 23 1/a 23 1/a 38 11 1/a 18 4 1/ 4 4% 2 17 4 1/4 1 3/a 5 7/a 9 1/a 23 2 1/a 16 9 19 8 1/2 7 12 /s
57 48 112 60 27 1/a 23 3/a 38 1/ • 11 'Ia 18 1/• 4 3/ • 5 2 1/ 4 17 112 4'1. 1 112 6 9 'te 23 '(. 2 '1s 16 3/ • 9 3/ • 19 3/ • 3 8 /• 13 3/s
41 32 112 44 1 11 /a 22'1s 37 1/4 9% 17 1/4
2 3/4 3% 1'ts 15 112
2'1
1 > 1
:~
32
36
209, '> 36 8 13'Aa
9, • 203,, 36'
2
f'• 1
Grote Nape to wa,st Sac" necre Bae" neck nse Snoulde' ength
Noreduct1on No reduction x 1 N d 0 re, ~CtiOn
18 /a 21
~cei
No reduct1on x 1 X1 1 X1 x 1 No reductton
23 1 sla 10 112 6 'I• 1 13 12 51 9 12
,Across baC~h Stee>e 'eng h Sh;.
6% 1 9 12 3 23 1• 1 314 12 31s
8 11•
13 71s 1
6 1• 10
Large 48 46 112 40 31• 46 112 10 21 112 38 15 15 11s 3 3 71s 1 112 20 11s 2% 314 6 71s 10 24 1 314 13 9 14 631• 10 11s
MEN'S REGULAR SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller 1n crossw1se d1rect1on without any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft•ng slopers for fabrrcs that stretch lrom 75% to 100%. Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabilrze the seam and prevent rt from stretchrng. Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Chest Wa1st Hip Crotch depth Warst to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Chest span Chest level
X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduct1on No reduction No reduction X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction No reduction X .95 No reduction X .95 No reduction X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction
Extra Small
Small
Medium
32
36
40
44
30 31s 24 314 30% 9 20 112 36 7% 13 1 71s 1 2 12 1 1 18 1a 1 2 1• 314
34 1• 1 28 12 34 9 114 20 314 36 112 13 114 13 % 1 2 1a 2 71a 1 18 % 2 tl4 3;,
38 32 114 38 9 112 21 37 13 3/4 13 71s 2 3/a 3'1a 1 '1. 19 'Ia 2%
41 314 1 36 1s 41 >;. 9% 21 ';. 37 112 14 tl4 14 >;. 2% 1 3 12 1 1 13 19% 2 31a 314 6% 9 tl2 23 3/4 1% 12 1/a 8 13 tl2 s'AI gJ;.
5 71a 8 23 1% 10
6
12 7/a 4% 9
1
'I•
6tla 8tl2 23tl4 1% 10 314 s% 13 5 1/a gt;4
%
s% 9 23'12 1% 11% 7% 13 t/4 s% 1 9 12
Large
Extra Large 48 45% 39 7;. 45 % 10 21 112 38 14 314 14% 2 71a 3 3 14 1% 20 'Ia 2%
>;.
s% 10 24 1 3/4 12 7111
8 3/4
3 13 /• 1 6 h
10
.
"" i i ii
i ii
I
t
•• •• I I
APPENDIX :
~EN
COSTIN G SHEETs
------
·s REGULAR SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS -
471
crossw•se d~rectton wtthout any reducttons •n lengthwtse dtrection
-ce·,l smaller'" 1 when drafttng slopers for fabncs that stretch 100% and over 10% smaller, except for the shoulder measure me l ~ t 1\ ,'()Lir across ~prevent rt from stretchmg. nt. smce the fmal garment w II h ,u?fl('l. the seam an • ave twtll tape to
~-~., ~t"se mE'asureme~:surements by .90.
--5tabrr ..e
Multiply Your Across
Extra
------=====M=e=a=s=u=r=e=m=e=n=t=s=B~y=======S=m~a=II========~S~m~~a~II ~M~e~d~iu~m~----~~~-------1~~ Large 44 ~-------------:~------~-----~;-------;~---~~==~~ 1
2
3
Large
______
48
c~est
39'1. 34';• 39 5/s 9'1• 21 1t. 37 112 13 11> 13';, 1 2 12
wa,st
~;~tch depth
WaJst to knee waist to ankle
8 9 10 •1 12
!3 14
15 16 17 18 19
20 21 22 23
Extra
Ankle Knee Front crotch sack crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st sack neck sack neck nse ShOulder length Across back Slee'e ,ength Shoulder p•tch 81cep Wnst Neck Chest span Chest level
3 1/4
43 1; . 37 3;. 43 1!. 10 21 11> 38 14 14 2 3!.. 3!)/8
1 1/4 19'ta 2'1a
13/a 20 1/e 2'1a
6'1a 1 9 12 23 3/• 1% 11 112
6 7/e 10 24 1'/a t2 11a 8 3/a 13
'I•
7'1a 7
12 1a 5'1• 1 9 1•
'I•
6 1/4
9 112
MEN'S REGULAR SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS
......... ........... ..... tiil!ll
tliiiJ'
~
..... .....
.......-.....~
~ ~
.....
Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~reclion and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direc tion. Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both directions. Mutt1pty your measurements by .90, 10% smaller, 1n both d~rect1ons. Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Ches1 Wa1st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Fronl crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch B1cep Wnst Neck Chest span Chest level
X .90 X .90 X .90 X.90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction X .90 X .90 No reduction X .90 X .90
Extra Large
E xtra S m a ll
Sma ll
M e dium
Large
32
36
40
44
48
34 114 28% 1 34 1• 9 7 19 1• 35 7 12 1a 13 1 2 1a 3 11a 1 1 1• 18 2'!1
36 30% 36 9 20 35 1/a 13 1 13 1• 1 2 1• 3% 1 1 /• 1 18 1• 2%
28 3/4 23% 3 28 1• 1 8 12 1 19 12 1 34 /4 1 7 1• 12 ';. 1% 2% 1 1 17 1• 1 2 1•
30% 1 25 /4 30 5/a 8% 19% 1 34 12 12% 1 12 12 2 7
2 1• 1 1 17 12 1 2 /•
'I•
3;.
5 71a 8 23 1% 1 9 12 s% 1 13 12 4% 9
6 1 8 1• 23 'Ia 1% 3 9 1•
6 13% 3 4 /• 1 9 /a
32% 27 32% 3 8 1• 3 19 1• 34% 12% 3 12 1• 2 3 1 11a 3 17 /• 1 2 1•
'I• 1
6 /a 1 8 /2 1 23 1• 3 1 1•
10 1/8 6'1< 3
13 1•
5 9'1•
'I•1
6 1• 8 31• 23% 3 1 1• 1 10 12 6'1s 7 13 /• 1 5 18
9'/8
'I• 3
6 1• 9 1 23 12 1'14 3 10 1• 7
14
5 3/a 1 9 12
47~
t't't Nnl
COSTI NG SHEETS
MEN 'S SHORT SIZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS -f'"-' ~,-cent smaller m crossw1se d~rect10n w1thout any reductions'" lengthwise dJ';~~on. Use tl1ese measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabncs that stretch from 0% to UsE' your measurements exactly as recorded w1thout any reductions
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
"' 1 1 • 1
Chest
X
Wa1st
Hrp Crotch depth
No reduct1on
Wa1st to knee Wa1st to ankle
No reduct10n No reduct•on
>< )( )( )( "
Ankle Knee Front crotch
Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to warst Back neck Back neck rise
Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder prtch Brcep Wrrst Neck Chest span Chest level
1 1 1 1 1
No reduction
No reduct1on X 1 No reductton X
1
No reduction
1 1 1 1 1 No reductron X
X X X X
·
Extra Small
Small
32 s
36S
40S
44
36 30 38 9 7/a 22 1 /a 39 '/a 14 3;a 14 .,., 2 3/e 3 ';•
40 34 42 10 1/a 22 3/a 40 1/a 14 'Ia 15 2% 3 112 1% 20 1/ 4 2%
44 3a 46 10% 22% 40% 15 3/a 15 1/2 2 7/ a 3 7/a 1 112 3 20 /• 2 112 7 /s 6 3/• 3 9 /4 25% 1 7/s 13 112
32 26 34 9 '1'1 7 21 11! 39 1/a
s 'l'l
14 2 '1'1 2 'Ill 1 19 1/4 2 3/s
'I•
6 8 1/• 24 5/ s 1 314 11 1/ 4 6 112 14 5 9 7/8
1
1 /4
19 3/ 4 2 3/ s 3;,
6
1 /•
s 37/ •
24 / s 1 3/ 4 12 7 14 1/ • 6 9 7/s
'I•
Medium
'I• 1
6 12 9 1/4 25 1/s 1 7/s 12 3/4 8 1 14 / 2 6% 9 7/s
Large
s
Extra Large 4a s
a'!.
14 3/4 7 9 7/a
48 42 50 10% 22 7/a 41 1/e 15 7/e 16 3 ';• 4 1/e 1% 21 ';, 2 112 1 /a 7
to ';,
25% 2 14 1/ 4 9 112 15 7% 9 7/e
MEN'S SHORT SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller m crosswtse d~rect1on Without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drattrng slopers tor fabrics that stretch from 25% to 50%. Multrply your across measurements by .9a, 2% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabilize the seam and prevent rt from stretchrng.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 a 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 1a 19 20 21 22 23
Chest Warst Hrp Crotch depth Warst to knee Warst to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to warst Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Chest span Chest level
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
Extr a Sma ll 32S
36
s
40 S
44S
.9a X .98 X .98 No reductron No reduction No reduction X .9a X .9a X .9a X .9a X .98 No reductron No reductron X .9a No reductron X .9a No reduction X .9a X .98 X .98 X .98 X .9a No reduct ion
31 3/a 25 112 33 % 9% 21 7/a 39 1/a a';, 13'1. 2 2 3/4 1 1 19 /• 2%
35 1/4 29 3/a 37 1/ 4 7 9 /a 1 22 /a 39% 14 14 2;e 2 3/a 3 1/a 1 1/a 19 3/• 2'1e
39 /• 33% 41 1/a 10 1/a 22% 40 1/a 14% 14 3/4 2% 3% 1 '!. 20 ';. 2 '1e
1
43 /a 1 37 /4 45 10% 22% 40 % 15 15 1/< 2 7/a 3 3/4 1% 20 % 1 2 12
6 a';, 24% 1% 11 6 3/a 13'1. 4 3/4 9%
6 1/4 a% 24% 1% 11 % 7 1/a 14 1 5 /• 9%
X
'I•
Sma ll
3;.
M edium
3;. 1
6 12 9 1/4 1 25 /a
t'!. 1
12 12
7 1/a
14 1/ 4 s% 9%
Large
1
1;e
6% 9 '1. 25 % 1% 1 13 / • a% 14 1/2 6 1/ 4 9%
Extra Large 48S 47 41 1/a 49 10% 7 22 /a 41 1/a 1 15 12 15% 3 4 1 112 1 21 /• 2 112 7 /a 7 1 10 /• 25 % 7 1 /s 14 1 9 /• 14 3/• 6 '/4
g'fe
APPENDIX :
COSiiN G S HEEis
473
·s sHORT SIZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS
MEN
d~rection without any reduct•ons 1n length
"'"'lflPf) )'our d prevent It from stretchmg the seam an ,:e Multiply Your Across Measurements By
surement, smce the final garment Will h
E x tra Small
avetw•lltoPe to stab,. Small
32S 1
2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
... = ...-....
..
ller 1n crossw•se
pereent ~~:ements when draf11ng slopers for fabncs that stretch from ~~ 1direction. 7 1_,~trwse use me:cross measurements by 97, 3% smaller, except for the shoulder me~ 5%
cnest wa•sl
~~tch
depth wa 1stlo knee Wa•stto ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wnst Neck Chest span Chest level
X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction No reduction X .97 No reduction X.97 No reduction X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction
31 25 1/4 33 9% 21 7/a 39 1/a 1 8 /a 13 5/a 2 2 3/4 1 1 19 /4 2% 3/4 6 a';, 24% 1 3/4 11 6 ';, 13% 4 3/4 1 9 12
36S 35 29 7 36 /a 7 9 /a 22 1/a 39% 14 14 1 2 /4 3 1 1 /a 19 3;, 2% 3;, 1 6 /4 a3;, 7 24 /a 1 3/4 11% 7 7 13 /a 3 5 14 1 9 12
Medium
s
40 38 3;, 33 40 3;, 1 10 /a 22% 40 1/a 14 3/a 14 112 2 112 3 3/a 1 ';, 20 1/4 2 3/a 3;, 6 112 9 ';, 1 25 /a
t%
12 3/a
7'1. 14 6 3/4 1 9 12
Extra Large
Large 44
s
42 518 36 7;, 44'18 10';. 22'1. 40';, 15 t5 23; , 33;,
t%
203;, 1 2 12 7 /a 63;, 9'1• 25'1. 7 1 /a 13 8 112 1 14 /•
?'Ia 1 9 12
48S 46'n
40 3/ ..
4B 1n 10'18 22 718 41 118 15 318 15 1;, 3 4
,.,.,
211/4 1 2h '18 7 10 1/• 25'18 1718 13 718
g';.
14 112 8'1a 1 9 12
MEN'S SHORT SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS
Five percent smaller 1n crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direc tion. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100% . Mullip/y your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for t he shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabl· lize the seam and prevent 1t from stretching. Extra Multiply Your Across Extra Large Large Medium Small Small Measurements By 48S 44 40S 36S 32S 3 45% 41 /• 1 1 Chest 7 3 38 34 1• 1 39 18 30 1a X .95 1 36 1a 1 1 2 Waist 32 1• 28 12 31• 47 12 X .95 24% 1 43 1 3 39 1a 1 Hip to% 36 1a X.95 32 1• 1 tO 'Is 4 10 1a Crotch depth 22 7/e 9 71a 9% No reduction 22 % 1 1 5 Waist to knee 22% 41 /a 22 1a 21 'Ia 1 40% No reduction 6 40 1a 15 Waist to ankle 39 % 1 14% 39 'Ia 1 No reduction 7 Ankle 14 1a 15 /• 3 13'1s 1 14 1• 8 X .95 8 Knee 14 1• 3 1 13'1< 1 2'1< 13 1• X .95 9 4 1 2 12 Front crotch 2 1• 1 3% 2 X .95 10 1 12 3% Back crotch 1 1'1s 3 1 2% 11 X .95 21 1• 1 1 1• 3 Crotch angle 1 1a 20 1• 1 2 112 1 12 X .95 20 1• 3 Nape to waist 1 2'/2 19 1• 'le 19 14 13 No reduction 7 2 '1s Back neck 1a 3 2% 7 14 2 1a 31• No reduction 1 631• 31• Back neck rise tO 1• 15 31• X .95 6 1/2 1 931• Shoulder length 6 1• 25% ts 6 9'/4 No reduction 25% Across back 831• 1'/e 1 1 17 8 1• 25 1a 1 X .95 131• Sleeve length 13 12 24 'Ia 18 7 t31• 24% No reduction 3 t2 /8 9 Shoulder pitch 1 1 1• 19 1 1a 12 1'1s X .95 s% B•cep 14 1• 11 % 20 7 '18 10% 7 t4 X .95 Wrist s'l2 3 6 1a 1 21 13 1• 6 1a 1'12 1 g'/8 X .95 Neck 1 1 t3 12 22 6 12 g'ls 13 1• X .95 Chest span 23 5'1s g'l• 4% 1 X .95 Chest level 9 12 9% No reduction
s
474
APPENDIX.
COSTI NG SHEETS
MEN 'S SHOAT SIZE RIB REDUCTIONS
.
I ngthwise dtrectton. Ten percent smaller m crossw•se direct1on wtthout any reducttons in ~ 100 % and over. ·nee the fin al garment Wtll have twill tape to Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabncs that stretc houlder measurement . 51 Multtply your across measurements by .90, 10% smaller, except for the 5 stabthze the seam and prevent it from stretchtng. Extra
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
Extra small 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Chest Waist
H1p Crotch depth Watst to knee Watst to ankle
Ankle Knee Front crotch
Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to watst
Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch Bicep Wnst Neck Chest span Chest level
X X X
90 90 .90
No reduction No reductton No reductton X .90 " .90 ~ .90 ' .90 X 90
No reductton No reductton
>< .90 No reduction X .90 No reduction >< .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction
28 1• 23 3/ B 30 5/a g5;a 21 7/s 39 118 7 112 12 5/a 2 2 112 1 19 114 2% 314 6 8 11• 24% 1% 10 118
5 71•
12% 4% 7 8 1s 28 314
small 32 3/B 27 1 34 1• 9 7/a 22 'Ia 39% 13 13 2 'Ia 1
2 1• 1 19 31• 2% 314 1 6 1• 8 314 7 24 1a 1% 10% 6 112 12 718 5 112 8 '1s 32%
Medium
Large
36
39 51a
30 518 37 3/4 10 11a 22% 40 11• 13% 13 112 3 2 1• 3 'Ia 1 'Ia 1 20 1• 2 31s 314 6 112 1 9 1• 25 11a 1 51a 11 112 1 7 1• 13 1 6 1• 8 31• 36
1
34 1• 41 3/a 10 318
22%
40 5/s 13 718 14 2 51a 3 112 1 1 1• 20 314 2 112
'Is
6 314 9 314 25 318 1 314 12 11s 7 71a 13 ';. 7 11a
8 71a
39 %
Large 43';.
-
37 3;. 45 lOS;. 22 7/s 41 1/s 14 1/4 14 3/s
2 11a
33;. 1 31s 21 'I• 1 2 12 7
1a
7 10'1• 25% 3 1 1· 7 12 1s 8 112 13 112 8 1 8 1s 43 114
MEN'S SHORT SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller 1n crossw1se d~recllon and 10% smaller in the lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafhng slopers for fabrics that stretch 100% in both direct ions. Multiply your measurements by .90. 10% smaller, in both directions.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Chest Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Chest span Chest level
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
Extra Small
Small
32 s
36S
40$
44S
48S
X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction X .90 X .90 No reduction X .90 X .90
28 314 23 % 30% 9 11s 20 314 37 11a 1 7 12 12% 2
30 % 25 114 32 % 1 9 1•
32% 27 34 114 9% 21 37% 13 13 2'1a 3 11a 1'1. 18% 3 2 1a 314 6 114
34 ';. 28% 36 1 9 12 21 'Ia
36 30 % 37 % 9% 1 21 1• 1 38 /s 3 13 1• 1 13 1.! 2 3/a 3'1.! 1 1 /J 1 19 1• 2%
2 71a
1 18 114 3 2 18 314 6
8'1• 24% 3 1 14 10 11s 5'1• 14 4% 9%
20 71•
37% 12 314 12 71a 2 3 1 11a 18 112 2%
3;.
6 11a 1 8 12 24'1. 1% 10 112
6'1•
14 'Ia 431• 9'1•
Medium
a%
24 71a 1 314 10314 1 6 12 14'1• 5'1• 1 9 1•
Large
37 71a
13 'Ia 1 13 14 2 114 3 3 /a 1 1 /• 19 2 31a
3;.
6 31a 9 25 1 7/a
Extra Large
'I•
s'n 1
1
9 1• 1 25 /s 1'/s 1 11 1.!
ss;,
14 1.! 1 6 1•
11 /a 6 7/a 14%
93/e
7 11• 1
-
9 1/•
A PPENDI X :
p.4E"'••'5 T.AL
L
COST I NG S HEETS
475
siZE STABLE KNITS REDUCTIONS
rossw1se drrechon w•thout any reductrons tn lengthwtse dtrect•on pf'"('ef''t smaller 1M ~s when draftrng slopers for fabncs that stretch from 0% to 25%
:~r0 ~se measurernen .,..,..actly as recorded without any reductions.
... .....---=:
't!
=:;
5
M~e~d~i;u~m~----~~~------lE~x~ tr~a~ 32 TII======~S~m~a; 36 TII------~ Large Large -------~M~ea~s~u~r~e~m=e=n=t~s==B~y=======S~m~a~
-----
4~T~======~!=~ ______~ 40~T--------~4~ -------------~~----------~~~------~~:_ ~ ; : 32 36 40 44 48 T
wa~st 2 ~;~tch
3 '
5 6
7 8 9 tO 11 12 13
depth Wa•sttoknee
warst to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch sack crotch Crotch angle Napetowarst Back neck
Xl
~~ ;:~~~::~~
Noreduct1on x l ~: x 1 x1 No reduc!IOn
Noreduct1on
x 1
Back neck nse
:~ !:'~~~~~th,h
No reduct1on
SteeVe leng
No reduct1on
17 18 19 20 21 22
ShoUlder P•tch S'cep Wnst Neck Chest span Chest level
x 1 X 1 x 1 X 1 x 1 No reductiOn
14
23
X,
;~
;~ '• 40 1 2~•/a 2 '1• 1 20 11e 2 1/• 3/• 5 7/ e 286
~~
;~~:
40'u.~ :: ,1, 2 'I• 3 1 '!e 20% 2' '•
3'
~
~g23 h
39
41
~~ h
~~31,
1
48 11
7
5;,
23 /e
14 h 14 'to 2 '12 313;, 21 'I• 118
•
~~',~
24 18
,
1
15 'le 231• 313 'to 1• 21518
15'/e 3 4 1 1 1:1 22 ;a 23/a
23/e 314
23;8
286:~.
2~6~~
26 '/•
27
t '!a
2 12 731• 14 6 10
2 1231• B'h 14
2 13'7 g' ,, 14 'n 7 103 4
6 '~: ,,
7
1 le 10 '12 6 '1• 13 '12 53 9 1•
3 5
11
'I•
7 1331• 3 5 1• 10
t L
'I•
31 "'
r3.~
'I•
6% 1
10
;,
31 •
1f "
MEN'S TALL SIZE MODERATE REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller 1n crossw1se d 1rect 1on without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when draftmg slopers for fabrics lhat stretch from 25% to 50% , Mulllply your across measurements by ,98, 2% smaller, except for !he shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to s1ablhzelhe seam and prevent 1t from stretc hing.
~
§
·
~~~t"" measurem~e~n~ts~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--~~~~------~-------------------------------------US' Multiply Your Across Extra
4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 t6 17 18 19 20 21 22
23
Chest WaiSt Hlp Crotch depth Wa1st to knee
~na~~~ to ankle Knee Front crotch
Back crotch Crotch angle Nape waist 10 Back neck B k ac neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder Pilch B•cep Wrist Neck Chest span Chest
Mult iply Your A c ross Measurements By
E xtra Sma ll 32 T
36 T
40 T
x ,98
31 'Ia 26 '12 31 'Ia 10 23 11e 40 8 1331a
35 11• 30% 35 11• 1 10 1• 3 23 1/ e 40 12 1331• t3 '1e 1
39 1• 34 'I• 1 39 1• 10 '12 23''• " 41 14 '1• 14 31e 2 '12 3
2% 1 1 20 1a 2 3
'I•
3 1 'Ia 20% 2 2;e
1I•
6''a
8 26 131• 10 11• 6 'Ia 13'1•
8h 26 1'1e 11 7 6 /a 13 '12 1
X
,98
x ,96 No reduction No reduction No reduction x ,98 x ,98 X 98 , X ,98 x ,98 No reduction No reduct ion X ,98 No reduction x ,98 No reduction x ,98 X ,98 x ,98 X ,98
2
5 1a
'!ev~e~'------------~~x~,~ 9~8~~--------J4~3~~·-No reduction g '12 _
Small
2 1•
31,
('
'I•
Medium
1
'I• 1 2 ~ ~~:
Large 44 T 43 '/e 38 'I• 43 'Ia 1031 7' 23 /e
i!!;! 1
14'1• 23'• { 3 /e 1>;. 21 'Ia 2 >;,
2%
'le o
631e 9
6 1/a 9 3h 26 /•
'le
2
~ I;! t
113/• 7 o;, 13 31, 531• 10
Extra Large 48 T 47 , 42 le 47 11 4 2 2
'I•
is•;. 15% 3 4
1' ~
('
22 Ia 2% 7 'le
a'fa
6 1e 10 27 2 13 9 14'1•
14 6 11/4
lO 'h
2
12 'h
'I•
6•1,
j5~~1·~------_2~--------__.:1~0~1~•-------------
______ 9 31•
4;"6
'\PPlNDIX:
COSTING SHEETS
MEN'S TALL SIZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS ll'u·~ rcent smaller rn crosswrse drrectron wrthout any reducttons '" lengthwtse d~rec~on. u ..e th:e measurements when draft•ng slopers for fabncs that stretch
fro~dSO~~~:;ement· srnce the final garment w•ll have twtll tape to stabt_
M.ulttply your across measurements by .97. 3% smaller. except for the shou er l•ze the seam and prevent 11 from stretchtng
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
1 2
Chest Warst
H1p Crotch depth
3 4 5 6 7
Ankle
8
Knee
Warst to knee Warst to ankle
9 Front crotch 10 Back crotch lt Crotch angle 12 Nape to W81St 13 Bat.:k neck 14 Back neck nse 15 Shoulder length 16 Across back t7 Slaeve length 18 Shoulder p1tch t9 B•cep 20 Wnst 21 Neck 22 Chest span 23 Chest level
.97
)i
' .97 .97
X
No reductron No reductron No reductron
)( .97 97 X 97 )( .97 )( .97 '>(
No reductron No reductron
)( .97 No reductron
97
X
No reductron X .97 X .97 X X
X
.97 .97 .97
No reductron
Extra Small
Extra
Small
Medium
Large
Large
32 T
36T
40T
44T
48T
31
35 30 35 10'/•
38 314
42~/e 7 37 to
46 1h
42% 10 3t. 23 718 41 1h 14 112 14'18 2'18 3 112 1 3to 21 5to
46 1h
26' ·.. 31 10 23 1-11 40 7
7 '8 1 13 / 4
23 3to
40 1h 13 5/ e 13 314 2118
2
2 1/ •
3 1 20% 2 1/.s
5 7/ s
6 1/s
2'111 1 1 20 18 3;,
3t•
8 112
8
26 13/• 10 1/s 6 13
4 31• 1
9 12
1
26 14 1 718 11
6 31•
13% 1 5 1•
931•
34 38 3 /.a 10 1h 23 5 te 41 14 14 1to 2 3/e
3 1/4 1 /4
1
21 'to
2 3to 3t• 6 3to
9
26 1h 1 7to 11%
7 112
13% 5 314 10
2 3to 3t• 6 5/s
9 1h
3 26 t• 2 12% 1
6 1•
13 7to 1
6 1•
10 118
41 "to 11 24 118 42 15 15 1/e 3 3
7
to
1
1h 22 1111
2 3to 3t• 7 6 111
10 27 2 13 9 14
3 6 1•
10 3to
MEN 'S TALL SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS Five percent smaller 1n crosswrse drrect1on wrthout any reductions in lengthwise direction.
Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100%. Multiply your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for the shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabi-
llze the seam and prevent 1t from stretching.
Multiply Your Across Measurements By t Chest 2 Wars t 3 H1p 4 Crotch depth 5 Warst to knee 6 Waist to ankle 7 Ankle 8 Knee 9 Front crotch 10 Back crotch t1 Crotch angle t2 Nape to waist 13 Back neck t4 Back neck nse t5 Shoulder length t6 Across back 17 Sleeve length 18 Shoulder pitch 19 Bicep 20 Wrist 21 Neck 22 Chest span 23 Chest level
X.95 X .95 X .95 No reductron No reduction No reductron X .95 X .95
X .95 X .95
X .95 No reduction No reduction
X .95 No reduction
X .95 No reduction X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 X .95 No reduction
Extra Small
Small
32T
36T
30% 25% 30 31e tO 1 23 to 40 7% 13 7 1 1a
34 1•
2 112
1 1 20 18 1 2 1• 3;, 5 '1• 8 26 1 314 tO 6 7 12 /a 4% 9';,
1
29 1h 34 11s 1 10 1• 23 318 1
40 12 1 13 14 13 31a 1 2 1a
2 71a
1 20% 1
2 1• 3;,
1
6 /a 1 8 12 26 1/4 1'1. 10'1. 6% 13
5 1/a 1 9 h
Medium
Large
40T
44 T
38 1 33 14 38 1 10 12 23% 41 13 314 7 13 1a
41 314 37 41 314 10 314 7 23 18 41 112 1 14 1• 14 31o 2% 1 3 12 1 21%
2 31a 1
3 16 1 1 14 21 11a 3 2 /a
31• 6% 9
26 112 7 1 /a 11% 3 7 /o 13 1/4 s% 9 3;.
'I•
2 31a
>;.
6% 1 9 12 26 3/4 1 7/a
12 'Ia 8 13 1h 6 10
Extra La rge 48 T 45% 7 40 18 45% 11 1 24 1• 42 3 14 1• 7 14 1a 7 2 1a 3% 1% 1 22 1o 2% 3;, 7 6 /o 10 27 2 12 7/s
8 3/4
3 13 1•
6 1h
10
1 /•
....... ..... ...... .-,-
ill
APPENDIX:
COSTING S H EETS
477
~RIB REDUCTIONS MEN'S fA direction withou t any reductions 1n lengthwise dlrect1on 1
nt 51113uer in cro~,:~~rafting slopers for fabn cs that stretch 100% and over easurements nts by 90. 10% smaller, except for the s houlder measurement, since the fl
ren perce
1 use rnesyoe';across measure~~ from stretching na garment Will have tWill tape to MLIIIipiY seam aarn:c;d~p~re::v:o:e~n~~~:;;;~~~~;;;,;---;;;~;----------------------=:.:::__
stab•l•ze the
:_
Multiply Your Across Measurem e nts By
Extra Small 32 T
Small 36 T
M edium 40 T
32 11e 10 /• 23 31e
36 10 '12 23%
Extra Large
Large
------------------------:~--------~~~------~v,-------~~------~ 44~T~----~4~8~T~ ~ ~ ~g ~~~:: ~f31' ;~,12 39'1• 43 '1• 3 3 waist 1-liP crotch depth
x .90 No reduction No reduction
28 1• 10 23 'Is
Waist to knee
No reduction
40
40 112
t3 t4 t5 t6 t7 t8 t9
WaiSt to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa,st sack neck . Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep
x .90 x .90 x .90 X .90 X .90 No reduction No reduction x .90 No reduction X. 90 No reduction X .90
12% 12 31, 2 231• 1 20% 2 'I• 314 6 11a 8'' '2 26 11• 1 31• 1 10 /'
20 2t 22 23
Wrist Neck span Chest Chest level
2
3 4
i 7
98 tO tt 12
7 'I• 1 12 1• 3 1 1• 2'1s
'Is
x .90
20 'Is 2 'I• 314 5 71a 8 26 1 'Ia , 9,(2
x .90
12 11s
No reduction
3 8 I•
X .90
x .90
5 /8
4 'Is
6 14
12% 4 71a 9
;~%'8
38 1;, 43 /• 11
10{• 23
41
13 13 ';, 2 'I• 3 1'1s 21 'le 2% ,1, 6% 9 26 112 131• 3 10 I• 7
12% 5% 9 'I•
/
1
8
41 (> 13 2 13 / /' 2 (> 31 /' /' 2
~~: >;. s'le
9 112 26 >;. 13'• ,. 11 '12 7'fe 12 71s 5 3,.'• 9 '12
24 /s
42 14 14 23/• 3'1• 3 1 /B
2 ~~:
,,,
1;,
6"
10 27 13,, , 12 'le
8 3~8
13
s ''• ,. 9 ';.
MEN'S TALL SIZE FOUR-WAY REDUCTIONS Ten percent smaller in crosswise direction and 10% smaller in the lenglhwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics I hat stretch 100% in both directions. Mulllplyyourmeasurements by .90,10% smaller, in both directions.
t 2 3 4 5 6
Chest Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle
9
nee Front crotch Back crotch
~ ~nkle ~~ 123 t t4
~~
t tS7 19 20 2t 22 23
~~~-
Napetowaist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bleep Wrisl N 9Ck Chestspan
~
Extra large
Multiply Your Across Measurements By
Extra Small 32 T
36 T
40 T
44 T
48 T
x .90 x .90 X .90 x .90 x .90 x .90 x .90 x .90 X . 90 X . 90
28 % 24 'I• 28 314 9 112 22 38
36 31'12 36 10 , ~
1g1, 's {' 2 I•
19\ 's {' 2 I•
1•
1•
32% 28 32 31s 9314 22'1• 3 8 '12 12'1s 12 31• 2 3 1'1s 19% ,, 2 1, 34
34 11• 29 31• 1 34 1•
12 '1. 1 ';. 2 'Is
30% 26 'Is 30'1s 9 s;. 22 38 'I• 12% 12 '12 2 2 'Ia
~
·.9900
7'1•
No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction No reduction X .90 X .90 Noreduc tlon
5 1a 8 26 1 71s g 112 5% 13tl2
X.go
4%
3
7
Small
3
6 8 'I• 1 26 1s 1 71s
9 31,
6 13% 4%
Medium
6 ,,~._
8 ,',: 26 ~ 1 10 'Is 6 •; 4
1!~ 1
Large
9 71a
22 1f.l 38 31• 12 '/8 13 1 2 /8 31a
1~
19'/8 2 3.s
s.,
6 '· , 8 ,1, 26 s.'e 1 'Ia 10 ' '2 5
6 18
13 1'8 5 g 5/e
22
'
39
~; ... ,, 2 3~ 8 1 4 20 3 2 \!
s,,
53 ~ 9 26' '2 2 10 3 •
7 14 3 5 11 9 314
------------~x~.9~0~----------~g~t;.~4 _________!93~/s~------~9~12~------~~-------------