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Mary'Ann's eiiume (Decoratii/ec4rtr

Qoueftioru

STERLING

AND FRAN CINE CLAR1C ART INSTITUTE L1BRART

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THE CUTTERS'

PRACTICAL CUIDE TO THE CUTTING OF

L^DIGS' GI^EQEPTS EMBRACING

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PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE.

_^-T/:v^_^.

W.C

\

PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, 98

&

94

DRURY LANE, LONDON,

W.C.

LIMITED,

f iMiskiFS The material changes slight, that a

change

garments are so gradual and comparatively

in gentlemen's

good work on their production

may

The case stands very

nigh a generation.

—very materially so in

some

cases

fitful:

continue to be of practical value for well

— every

season

new

styles

;

necessitating a

and fashions, many inquiries have been made

lately as to

thus prepared to meet a two-fold want or

to the production of all the

demand

for

new

itself will

;

for

and there

graved figures.

bear testimony to

style of Ladies'

have the systems

diagrams

new and popular

garments

;

and guide

and

also the

scope, and the is

way

which every current,

in

Here we

treated and illustrated.

further, the finished garments, illustrated

is

The work thus presents

meet the

a completeness,

upon

which renders

artistically enit

an invaluable

Should the inexperienced or timid cutter hesitate to

these systems, our arrangements for supplying Special Cut

Patterns of any style of ladies' price, will

its

producing the garments, each illustrated by beautifully engraved

own productions by

nominal

—an instructor

styles in tailor-made

Tailor-made Garment

acquisition to the Ladies' cutter.

use his

demand

"

such a work by the Practical Guide System.

The work as well as

whether

not,

if

The work we now introduce being based on the " Guide

we intended preparing such. it is

for

whether we had a

work on Ladies' Garments by the Cutters' Practical Guide System, and

System,

new work

Apart from this necessity in point

their production every two, or at most, three years.

of

Garments, which

differently with Ladies'

garment— if

difficulty, at the

the style can be conveyed to us

same time allow him

to

—

at a very

compare our pattern

with his own production.

We

doubt not but this new and latest

already attained by the

Work

will fully

Works now being published

at the

sustain the character

Tailor and Cutter

we have

Office.

The John Williamson Company Limited.

.

ZU&£^x&

-ZTr^GTXV

TO €lf f INCH

The

object

preparation

we

before us in

set

of a

the production of

Ladies'

all

this

work,

the

is

Instructor and (iuide in

Complete

Garments which may be

some of the laws of science. They will often tell yon where the seams of their garments must be placed, and will

and the making, but embracing also all the new, the current and the popular styles, in all their different

the

the

fit

and departments

classes

and

perienced,

— an

(iuide

a

to

Instructor to the inexthe

experienced

cutter.

know

they

classed as " tailor-made," not only as regards the cut,

man who

dress

it,

procure

cutters

generally

setting

themselves

acquire the Art of Cutting and •

iarments

— an

art

in

Tiiost

by study and

accomplished to

getting up Ladies'

respects widely

different

;

they read about

development,

be

;

the one end and object of their

is

study

talk about

can. only

and woe to the reputation of them in the wrong direction and

leads

although we do not wish to impute that, with

While tailoring has been largely augmented during recent years by Ladies' Garments, this comparatively new branch is capable of very considerable further which

the effect certain styles of ornamentation

have on the body

it,

institutions to look at

it,

often deny themselves the

is

We

it.

they work for

common

do not condemn

and study,

to

calling

necessary

the adorning of the female form

materials

every detail

for such

Starting at the beginning, with the

anatomy

in

female figure, we proceed step by step

every point connected

till

study. of

the

we embrace

with the production of Ladies'

tailor-made garments, in

all their styles and varieties, by application and perseverance, any cutter of ordinary tact and intelligence, can, through the medium

so that

of the

following pages, master this noble art, and so

enable him, as cutter, to take any position class trade

:

or, as

in a high-

master, to develop his trale by the

all

Such,

is

the aim and object of this work.

This must be a continuous study on the part of the change so rapidly, one style succeeds another so speedily, that unless he is on the alert, he cutter, for fashions

will

soon drop back into the second rate

:

for

it

is

to

its

to

our object

:

become

teachings, so as to apply

art in all its fine studies, so as to utilize

firstis

it

to

his

;

lessons

its

to understand

to

the

phases of practical tailoring, which enables form to be flat and lifeless. We might proceed almost indefinitely to show how knowledge was power in this direction, but we will take the

introduced into what was before

various phases in their order, and leave the student to

up the study of many of the subjects which we may only be able to touch lightly in dealing with them. To understand our subject thoroughly, the first subject

follow

we must

deal with

is

Anatomy,

A briefly,

this

life

thoroughly unde]"stand the application of

to

making of ladies" garments, turned out with such fit, taste and style, as will be well nigh certain to ensure success.

all

and

aye,

become acquainted with

from the production of gentlemen's garments, and which must receive special and attentive study before success can be possible. This work will supply the

;

it,

necessaries of

branch of tailoring, the necessity there

for application

science in

they

it,

they attend public

it,

show the cutter who hopes

rather to

class at this

yet they

life,

they write about

they think about

it,

all ladies,

subject deserving of far

than

receives.

it

laws of our It

is

not

1

It is a

)ivine Creator

necessary

or years acquiring the

human

figure

:

more attention from

tailors

study which recalls to us the

when he fashioned our

that

bodies.

our readers spend months

names

of all the bones

what we want them

the

of

to understand

is,

known that ladies' make a study of dress they not only know what is the latest style, but they also

that

understand every application of

surrounded by certain muscles which develop in cer

well

;

art,

and

very often

that a bone of such a shape

£4i&ZXP?i&:

_

its

movements

is

in such a position,

are in certain directions

;

that

and it

is

:

^^p*^ THE CUTTERS

tain directions

and, having acquired this knowledge,

:

the cutter will be able to distinguish between the pos-

and the

sible

formulating sound

foundation for enable

him

to

nature, and so lay the

impossible in

systems.

It will

understand the outline of the form he

has to clothe, independent of such

artificial

PRACTICAL GUIDE

reference to Figures of the

&c, &c. symmetry of the body, and shows how

the

side

left

an almost exact reproduction of the

is

right only in reverse. It teaches sible

how

;

where growth

possible

is

and where impos-

certain bones always remain near the sur-

how when

and

face of the skin,

the body develops

either fat or muscle, where the increment

how

it

affects the

teaches the

It

placed,

is

and

of limbs, where the three

different joints are to be found,

viz.,* the gliding,

the

Part

realize the difference

as

between the male

we have treated

of

the " Cutter's Practical Guide,"

I of

pose the readers of this work have

of the

haunch bones, &c.

woman,

the hips in

The female male.

skeleton

is

made

anatomy in we will sup-

and on

figure 2

the

the smallness

and the largeness of the hips, whilst the space between the chest and pelvis (hips) is much wider in woman than in man. The collar bones are weaker in woman than in man, and are differently of the ribs

the bones of the

all

ribs of the female are not so

nor so

arch-like

eyes to the reason for

are

the bones are quite characteristic, the male

more arched than the famale

tween the

fifth

and ninth on either

side.

his

it is

It

is

there

in this situa-

In man, when strongly

that the female waist exists.

formed, the ribs continue

especially be-

ribs,

that the female ribs are flattened, and

down, placing

fully arched,

much

lower

waist between the last rib and the

top of the haunches. In man, the back

a foundation

undisputed

strong

;

in

woman, the

But probably the point wherein the the best lesson

is

These were

bears but an indis-

fact, that the skeleton

much

to

the hips, as

it

loins.

tailor will learn

will soon force itself to

fnlly described in

and But a

do with that.

we know

how

Part

I

flesh little

these muscles

the bones never really alter

their actual forms (though they

may seem

to

do so by

the condition of the surrounding muscles) and conse-

quently a knowledge of the skeleton formation very best foundation

we can

is

the

In

possibly have.

Figure 3 and

4,

have illustrations showing the proportions f man and woman, taken from a manual of artistic anatomy by Robert Knox, M.D., F.R.K.E., which still further
.

to consider

our customers' tastes and

The diagram is self-explanatory in this and shows how the overlapping part is added on and though these garments are generally made close-

wishes, for

very effective.

ment

case,

we must remember we are making the garand as it must always he our aim to please them, we should lay ourselves out to understand what they wish and though customers will sometimes for them,

;

fitting, still a

;

ask for garments quite unsuitable to their form,

made up

they have fully

make

as to

the figure.

It

artistic talent

it is

shows his

is

in such a

series of

hooks and eyes put down to fasten an ornamental clasp or button

modify the

way

unsuitable

trimming

minds

their

;

style

harmony with with taste and

skill,

the tailor

in sending forth his cus-

When

tomers in becoming garments.

him with

fixed

they come to

on a certain

style,

if

it

can modify

or, if

they have decided on material, he can

The

infusion of a style having an opposite tendency.

we have

varieties of

selected to illustrate the

be quite sufficient to fasten

will

We

will

now

Variations in the Back, Diagram 37, Necessary for Dolmans and Winged Cloaks. will

form the subject

diagram 37

will

As they

of another section, a reference

show the plan adopted,

of back, which part

And

will be readily

viz.,

to

continuing

the sideseam right through to the scye point of shoulder

The Loose-fronted 38.

Plate 19

Plate 20,

31,

The former

is

is

added to the sidebody when

worn under the wing, but more frequently the forepart and sidebody are cut away at the scye, when all that is necessary will be to make a mark on the back where the sidebody is to begin, in order to sleeves are

D.B.,

Figure

:

the Cross-over Front.

just at present,

This

direct attention to the

Ladies' Ulsters are

Diagram

it.

that

at

at the side

understood by a reference to the figure and diagram.

by the material and

they

it

it

part, so that

is

reduce the unbecoming nature of the pattern by the

styles

The under

generally cut to the breast line only, and a

forepart

as far as possible in in this

moderate looseness at the waist rather

adds to than detracts from their beauty.

their minds, the best course

for us to adopt will be to

way

still, if

very popular

and as we pointed out in dealing with

This, however,

retain the balance.

is

a feature which

must be straight, that is, the hi east line, but as the Costume Skirts are worn so closefitting at present, and ladies' breasts being invariably more prominent than their stomachs, we have left a little curve just at the top from 2(H to V, owing to the

more correctly comes within the scope of the section on Dolmans, though of course that is no reason why, if

avoiding superfluous material

brought out in the fashions of a few years ago, and

Ladies' Jackets, the front

difficulty experienced in

on the stomach

but, wherever pos(see diagram) round should be drawn in, and the fulness well pressed back on to the breast. To accomplish ;

sible, this

this, it will

be advisable to take out a

the breast line, and cut the lapel a

when the garment will

V

the top of

at

trifle

it

be better to omit the V, the tendency of which

is

As

to shorten the outside edge. fish is

will

be noticed, the

But when

omitted from the forepart at waist.

desired to have the garment very close-fitting at the

it is

sides, a fish is

taken out as per dotted lines

;

and when

dealing with a figure with prominent breasts,

it

will

be very advantageous in providing extra room at that part.

We

should, however, advise this to be left

the trying on, as

it

does not suit

the one side can be pinned

ment brought

all

types alike.

up on the

figure,

till

Then

and judg-

which produces the and arrange accordingly.

to bear as to

desired in the best way,

minate at the point

seam

may

indeed,

;

the sideseam should not ter-

it,

of,

this

or half

way was

feature

across, the shoulder

prominently

very

be revived at any time.

There are doubtless many other variations we might dwell on in reference to ladies' Ulsters, but

we

will

con-

clude this section by a few remarks on

But

short.

intended to turn high up,

is

customers so desired

effect

Newmarket

Ulsters

In their various styles of S.B. and D.B., as they are so

These are cut on exactly the same lines as laid down for Newmarket Jackets, and which our readers will find fully described in the section All that requires to be done is to treating of Jackets. very popular at present.

It will always extend the skirt to the length desired. be well for the cutter to bear in mind that the ladies'

Ulster does not bear the same relation to the ladies'

Jacket, that the Chesterfield does to the

reality

Lounge

for

on the contrary, the ladies' Ulster is in nothing more than a very long Jacket, preferably

gentlemen

;

trifle easier on account of it being often made from thicker material and being more used in Winter

cut a

The Gross-over Front, Diagram

39, Plate 19

;

Figure

32, Plate 20,

which seems more than likely to become a prominent feature in fashionable Ulsters. When Is a style

^

trimmed with

fur, as

shown on our

illustration, it is

when

We

thicker underclothing

is

being worn.

must now turn our attention

play such an important part in

as they

to sleeves,

Dolman

cutting

;

and

we proceed to describe the method of producing them we must fully explain the sleeve problem. before

D

It

The

sleeve

problem has been so often brought before

the trade as an unsolved one, that cutters are well ac-

quainted with the in

that present themselves

difficulties

Further,

consideration.

its

more than

it is

likely

them them to

the stern realities of daily practice have brought

experiences other than pleasant, and caused

think a good

many

required.

is

It

times over the remedies so

much

generally acknowledge that, to get a

should be located

really perfect fitting sleeve, the scye

as nearly as possible at

the natural juncture with the

arm and body.

imperative at the front of scye

and

at the

it is

This

bottom

somewhat

is

of scye

different,

but with the width of back

:

since loss of width to back

can be compensated for in the sleeve

and when we

;

consider the decided preference shown for narrow backs in ladies' garments, the importance of the system being

arranged to provide for this in will at

once be seen.

We

we claim, has been satisthe sleeve system we are now

This,

factorily accomplished in

submitting.

ordinary workings

its

fully illustrate its

to this feature towards

workings in regard

the end of this section,

before our readers can consider that,

them to acquire the system consequently we begin with sary for

will

it

but

be neces-

in its simplicity,

first

:

is

drawn

at the front of scye,

distance these two lines are apart

taken

this

;

is

is

the

applied to diagram 41 by

and the quantity

first

making from

5i this quantity. We now wish to get the balance of the sleeve, and to do this we must locate the two to

pitches

;

the forearm pitch

is

may

B

;

the hindarm

be fixed according to taste

;

a very

plan for Jackets and Ulsters

is

to fix

it

good

at the top

of

The pitches located, we take the square and arm rest on a pitch as at A and B now let arm at C come forward or backward in accordance

sideseam. let either

the

with

;

the style of sleeve desired, always keeping the

square touching these two

pitches,

found the more forward the square 'i^-g

;

;

;

when

the next operation

elbow and apply

and measure on

it to 8,

mark

to

is

to elbow, allowing three

seams for making up, and on to

For an ordinary

way.

the length to

off

Measure the width of back and

full length.

length in the same

full

close-fitting sleeve, hollow the

forearm 2 inches, then measure from 2 to 8 half the plus two seams

sleeve desired,

size of

manner apply the width

of cuff.

from elbow downwards

as the guide.

in

;

the same

Get the angle of cuff by squaring across from hindarm, taking the angle

arm

from 5^

straight

account hollow

arm

will at

and

wrist,

to 2,

it

To

round between elbow

to be

to cut a hollow to

Tone down the angle is

the fore-

between as an examination of the

it

once show

and

Draw

and from 2 to C, and on no

quite a mis-

fit it is

at

2,

and the topside

complete.

get the under sleeve, measure round the bottom

of scye

A

from

tion indicated

to B,

by

7

:

ami apply from 5^ in the direcsweep from the elbow at 8 to get

The

the length of hindarm, and finish as per diagram.

amount

of hollow required

at

£

is

got by squaring

from the forearm pitch at right angles from the

across

square when placed to find the balance as illustrated on

diagram 4o

;

and provided the scye

deep for the figure,

the

amount

is

not made too

gauged by the distance between the square

bottom

may

of hollow

be

and

line

of scye.

always placed | of an

inch above the level of the scye as at pitch

pitch

—

H

thing

we have to do is to take the cut out pattern of the body part. (Diagram 4 illustrates the scye of Dia. 1, Plate 4). We begin by drawing a line at right angles to the depth of scye line, and touching the most backward point of the scye at 11 (see dot and dash line) then another line

vice versa.

forward-hanging sleeve will have

—

sleeve

The

and

more superfluous cloth at top of hindarm, though it much more freedom than the backward hanging one. Having arranged the square in position, note the amount from B to E, and apply this to diagram 41 by measuring back from 5| to 1^, and square across to 8. Now measure the scye from A to 11, and from 22 to B, straight across not round the scye whatever that measures, apply from from to 8 to 4 is half this distance, which in ordinary cases finds the top of sleeve head draw a line from 5^ to 4, and also draw a line from it to B of diagram 40, and whatever the scye is hollowed from this line, as at E, add on that amount of round to the sleeve at \. The sleeve head may now be drawn from 5^ to 4 and 8,

take.

The Jacket Sleeve System as .illustrated on diagram 41.

to B,

in arranging the

will give

Plates 21. 22 and 23.

to 52.

must always be remembered,

of the sleeve, that the

Sleeves.

Diagrams 40

E

greater the distance will be from

Section Five.

when is

it

will

be

brought, the .

The

Ulster sleeve

Jacket sleeve, though trifle is

a

extra

is it

practically

may

width at the elbow and cuff

feature always governed

impossible to lay

down any

ticular, except actual

ter should always

quantities

the

as

;

by individual

but as taste,

it

a

this it

is

definite guide in this par-

measurement which plan the cut-

adopt in

all

cases of doubt.

marked on the diagram being the usual

for material of ordinary thickness.

fJL&X&i*?,.

same

the

he preferrable to give

The sizes

Dia

Ladies' Bodice Sleeve.

43. Plate 21.

vent anything that would in the slightest degree raise so we should take off | or inch of round from the top of the sleeve head as illustrated by the dot and dash lines this would enable the sleeve to be put in almost plain, and would be quite satisfac-

the shoulders If

our readers have thoroughly grasped the principles

involved in the Sleeve System, they will soon recognise

they are identical with those employed to cut the hodice

The width

sleeve.

across the scye

distance from 0, 6

which may of course be varied

will

it

the

,

the bottom from

Plate 21.

Dia. 43,

shoulders comparatively

23, Plate 11, illustrates a sleeve suitable for

n the square when taking the first amount for this sleeve


.">,

is

cut off the fore-

and

this

is

secured -&ZL

is

omitted.

W

;

what was

lost to

diagram 55

;

D

to

W,

adding on at

W

the back as previously described for

continue

the sidebody, filling

it

W

down from up \ an inch

to

F and

at

F.

(i,

Now

by

put

the finger. od the forearm pitch D, and swing the sleeve -=-

round as per dot and dash line, to a level of the waist, and continue the run of sleeve head from I) to V the width of sleeve hand is a matter of taste, and the run of the underside sleeve from D to E is arranged to agree with the scye of forepart and the bottom from A ;

C

to

much

cut as

short as the topside

If it is desired to carry the

D,

at

These have a

the inability to raise the arm,

is

fit,

consequently a reliable Block Pattern forms

Diagram 60 Shows how the yoke

is

unlimited

diagram 58

;

illus-

and sidebody only, grown together and the same instructions we have given for the other diagrams will apply to this. Put the sidebody to the trates the sleeve

hindarm

pitch

;

sleeve

of

;

that position

mark

those parts outlined by

about 3 inches

body, usually

making,

ideas,

it

I)

to

the waist, as illustrated on figure 37

round both back and

short and

ance

still

grown

complete.

is

W.

down any

lay

when

to the

another

on.

hindarm

To

style,

desired.

less in

has the back and

this

and has a very

stylish

appear-

arm

of sleeve

cut this, put the hind

pitch, arrange the space

B

from

to

C

is

;

sewn

in

;

seam being preferably sewn separate,

of scye line of forepart

would give

as it

many

other styles

of

Dolman

and wings, but the cutter who has the

any design he

genius will readily be able to produce sees,

he once grasps and puts into

if

practice the principles

we have

laid

down, one

the

of

most important of which is, that what is lost at one part is made up on another by a sort of give and take arrangement, whilst another

important feature

is

to

Dolmans and Cloaks it is

sometimes

are so very closely allied,

difficult to tell to

garment may belong

in this section,

made

;

so

we

which

style a

deal with

and now proceed to

that

particu-

them both

why

a shoulder

seam should

ornamented very richly

very stylish feature in these garments, which combine a all the comforts of the more " grand-

motherly "

sort.

The Bodypart, Diagram

61,

rounded so as to adjust it to the yokes. The width to V depends to a large extent on the substance from to infuse the same appearance of fulof the material

W

:

made of thin material, much wider than would be necessary

these

be cut

for a cloth

for

W to

which we should advise The same width

40 inches.

is

V

to be

about 36 to

generally retained to

the bottom, though in the event of a very thick

being used,

and front to

a little,

ma-

would be as well to slope both back in which case the distance from

it

W

V

may be considerably reduced. The adjustment of length, diagram

treat of

Draw

this line with the

line

61,

it is

is

often a

really a very

W V, and place the back on

depth of scye line resting on

it

take the forepart and repeat the same operation.

most popular garments of this season will the Yoked Cape, illustrated on Diagrams 60 and 61,

must

ness in a garment

puzzling detail in these garments, but

Cloaks. of the

any improvement

These yokes are very frequently

either of velvet or else

simple matter.

One

if

run of the pattern or for any other

with braid, and there can be no doubt they make a

terial

retain the balance.

lar

in the

but

Is merely a straight piece of material with the top part

Doubtless there are

least inventive

In the

These are generally cut

V.

shoulder seam,

not be introduced.

the back

a freer appearance.

sleeves, capes

we cannot

this direction.

W

with the sleeve

head, the shoulder seams and back neck

it

whilst others

front,

taking style with

accordance with the amount of drapery

In making, this

to

them

style illustrated

purpose, we see no reason

by about 3 inches more than the width of the sidebody

more or

in

definite rule

skill.

down

others keep

:

give extra length to the front, consequently

without a

together,

designer's to reach

the corresponding point of front shoulder to the depth

of

Diagram 59 Illustrates

bottom part and the

for the

scope

Some make them very pointed and

can be made

sleeve

2,

1,

In

amount

the

with the sideseam and sleeve

in

in

0,

adjust the length to

and the cutting

sewn

is

F

head from

:

when

W,

on diagram 60, the yoke is made pointed back and front, starting at the depth of scye on the to shoulder point D of back, and then from back at

arrange

drapery between hindarm of sleeve and front of side-

customer's

the back and forepart are

:

for certainly the outline of the

58.

variety of ways in which this combination of is

cut

placed with the shoulder seams together, and

:

Diagram

Sleeve Wing.

parts can be applied

is

the best hasis of operation.

length allows ample

The

it

and ease

infusion of style

and now V, comprising the back, gorge, and front comes the part where all the taste may be displaye \

the sleeve being secured to the sideseam.

A

than

In cutting these,

Plate 2*.

>7,

:

a question of the

cut too long.

is

appearance when in the garment, but the

one great drawback

more

far

forearm seam out of sight

diagram 54.

see instruction for

very stylish

J

Plate 21. Figure

draw

a line

at * (which

-

r

;

then

Now

from the two shoulder points D and F, and is midway between D and F) make the top

round

of the

amount of puff is desired extra round must be added above *

but

;

to the shoulder,

a large

if

;

then be adjusted by measuring in the usual way allowing for back of top down from seams where consumed. It will, of course, be understood our diagram does not extend to the full length. Most of our readers will doubtless understand the

may

the full length

making

details of

garments— that the bodypart is all the way round, the back

these

on to the yoke

fulled

and tied in with a waist-band usually made of ribbon, and that the yokes are usually the only part lined, except where the front

much

gathered in very

edge

faced with

is

at the waist

Y

then be drawn from fasten

down

P,

G

If it is desired

to F.

the fronts with holes

must be

usual button stand

left

on, but when, as

is

often the case, these garments are lined with fur, they

made to hook and eye. Sleevelets are often placed on the foreparts in something of the style shown, the seam from I to J being generally hidden by some mode are

of ornamentation.

If fur lining is required for this, a

is sent to the furriers, who will made up to size, just ready for the outside, so that the making of a srarment of this class is a very simple matter. The same principle employed

pattern of the garment

send you the fur

all

here will also produce a very pretty shoulder cape,

silk.

to

and buttons, the

if

cut off about 14 or 15 inches from neck, but this will doubtless suggest

The Circular Cloak.

"We will

Plate 28,

Figure 38.

Now

claims our attention.

used by

demand

we

are disposed to regard

never out of fashion

is

recollection of five years

Cloak are

many

is

and

;

it

—the

Summer

to always re-

Florence and the Princess.

with

will deal first

coming at regular as a garment that

will doubtless

ago they were one of

The Florence Dolman,

be in the

Fig. 40, Plate 28

some four or the most popular of Russian

the

indeed,

Circular

There

may be

degrees of fulness to which these

but the style we illustrate on our diagram

we should ever

We

illustrations of

which seem

it

only an adaptation of this garment.

many

tain their popularity

styles of

Dia. 64, Plate 29.

;

of our readers, that

overgarments,

ladies'

others,

for patterns of this kind

intervals,

Dolmans, one or two

garment largely and from the

a

It is

and

nurses, elderly ladies

itself.

now proceed with

and from

advise,

cut,

as close as

is

this it will be easy to

deviate in the matter of extra room.

This

illustrates

Summer Dolman much easier to cut

the body part of a

cut from a Jacket pattern,

it

being

kinds of Dolmans from a model pattern than to work them out by system. It will be noticed the back has been reduced from D to "W, so making one continuous run from waist to shoulder. The scye of the forepart has been lowered from F to G, and the bottom but of course this is a lengthened and made pointed matter of taste, though this is the more general way. The sidebodies are cut short, as illustrated on diagram, care being taken to put a corresponding mark on back and sidebody in order to retain the balance. The sidebodies, however, are often omitted altogether, when the forepart would be cut as per dot and dash line, from N" to and F. This answers well for such styles as the Florence, but for the Princess and similar garments it all

;

Diagram Shows how the back

is

Plate 27,

62.

Take the block pattern

cut.

of

the back and sidebody of an Ulster, letting them just

touch at the top of sideseam K, and the bottom L.

The back seam and neck may be drawn

exactly the

same as the back, but in order to get the seam to come on the top of the shoulder, it will be advisable to come up from A to D about 1 inch C to E is from 2 to 3 D E F mark off inches, and draw sideseam by the length to agree with the customer's measures, and ;

W

;

arrange the finish of the pleats in accordance with the ^ady's

own

ideas,

and the back

is

complete.

M

is

better cut as per the solid outline.

are generally arranged to meet front.

and

The diagram shows

These garments

edge and edge in the

a blind added for hooks

eyes, but of course this can be varied

if

desired

by

adding on a button-stand in the ordinary way beyond the breast line.

Diagram

The Forepart.

63, Plate 27,

The Florence Wing. Is

produced on similar

A

back from another

1

making an size in

to I)

inch

is

is

lines

taken

added

excess of 3 to

the body, that

to 4-

:

what was added

off

from

B

to

the sideseam at

to

F, whilst

H, thus

is

them together

lay

minimum amount

arm

of sleeve going to

being the

to H inches

;

;

the

and over arms

the sideseam

65.

got on very similar lines to what we have

and

difference between the measure of chest

and chest being from

This

previously described.

inches beyond the Ulster

necessary in a garment to be worn over the arms

Diagram

the

may

Arrange the space

amount

of ease

;

3 or 4 inches, then

at

Q

Take the sidebody and sleeves hind arm pitch, the hindthe hindann pitch on sidebody. at the

in accordance with the

desired

medium ouantity is about mark round from F to W, adding

a good

r

W

W

on at what the back lias been narrowed (see D, diagram 53). Then continue from to bottom of

an inch, and in

W

outline of the

way provide

this

Cape

is

Y

for the

at

D

the

;

then got by the patterns in this

sidebody, filling in the hollow of waist about h an inch the finger on F, and swing the sleeve forward,

position, the length being adjusted in the

now put

as described for the Three-quarter Circle

and dash line, till the cuff rests on a level of the waist at V, and mark round from F to Y, hollowing it a trifle more as shown the outline of the bottom part is quite a matter of taste, and may be rounded or pointed, or arranged in any way to taste.

is

same way

;

as per dot

;

body part has been cut without sidebodies, the line from F S to V outlines the under sleeve, it

If the solid

being cut straight down from F. If cut with sidebodies, the dash outline illustrates the style it is cut, the bot-

tom being made

to agree with the

bottom

a fairly full style of Cape, but not nearly as full as

the previous one.

It

come down from mark across from

to

A

to

A

one-third of the breast, and

B B

one-third of the breast

wing

at

W

the forearm pitch

is

is

are

to C,

of scye.

Diagram

sewn together

the

:

hindarm

put to the hindarm pitch of back also arranged

;

harmonise the

to

M

wing with the forepart the under sleeve at F is sewn to F of the forepart, and the top and under sleeves are sewn together from F to V. A waist-band is sewn to the back at the centre and sideseams to keep :

M

it

close to the figure,

is

completed to

and the remainder

We

taste.

will

now

of the

garment

proceed to treat of

a few styles of ladies' Capes, and take

the

first

Cape.

Take the back,

forepart, and sleeve, and place them on diagram 57, the sleeve on the forepart pitch of sleeve and overlapping 1 inch the back is then placed with the back pitch at the hindarm, the as illustrated

;

space at as

C being regulated more desired

is

it

This

Plate 30. all

that

is

necessary being to take the back and forepart, place the shoulder seams together as per dotted lines I)

F,

and then mark round the back gorge and front. The only point needing special mention is the length from always to measure, and then a line

"W to 15

is

at right

angles to the back seam across to

measure from 3 to 15, and make quantity

now measure from

;

F

W to

15,

often

is

made

the fulness which falls

would

styles of

is

F

Yoked Capes

all

;

then

round

Our

illustrations

portray

illustrates the

it

back would be

also square.

The System, Diagram same

as

is

down with

Q P and line

Plate 30.

69, Plate 31,

we have just briefly described Take the forepart and lay it

the sleeve overlapping about

and arranged with the position.

Half Circle Cape.

cuff

X

is

a

much

from a pattern

closer fitting Cape,

of

back and forepart.

with the shoulder point

D

and

also cut

Arrange these

touching, and the centre of

front running at right angles to the back this, pass the front

is

forward

1

:

inch and drop

having got it

down i -

1

inch as at

laying in

its

from S

round the forepart from and then continue the mark as per to

H

M,

natural

WVR

Now mark S,

Now

by the sleeve head.

back with that part where the sleeve This

The

arrangement of the pointed

I) to

be.

Figure 42.

and pointed

square

the

yoke, whilst for the one with the square front yoke the

Is practically the ;

will

Figs. 44, 45, 46.

back view

back seam or where the back seam

67.

There are

drawn

in one piece, the pattern being arranged

Diagram

regu-

Capes which are very popular

Dia. 69.

for the close-fitting Cape.

to run with the

is

an inch

yokes, with pleats arranged below in either case.

and make

all

of

deal with

this quantity plus f of an inch, and by these points arrange the sweep of bottom. The special feature of

Cape

The length

making the front f

If the sleeve head is desired more than the back. puffed, it must be arranged on the sleeve head before applying it to the forepart and back to cut the Cape This is a very stylish Cape, and one that is always by.

V

this

or less (say 7 or 8 inches)

full.

;

15^ the same

to

or

now, and in order to keep this work up to date, we

one of the easiest of Capes to cut,

is

close

lated as for the others,

one or two fancy Fig. 41.

Plate 30.

Fig. 43.

68.

popular for fairly heavy materials, fur, &c.

Three-quarter Circle Cape. Dia, 66.

take

:

and arrange the seams as illustrated by the dotted lines from B and C to D. One great advantage of having this seam is, that the material runs the right way at both back and front. out 2 or 3 inches from

Close-fitting

The shoulder seams

with a seam

often arranged

is

over the shoulders, and, as a guide to locate this seam,

Hints on Making.

pitch of

This

Cape.

solid

put the

intended to be

is

pitched to the hindarm of the sleeve at L, arranging the space

HN

by judgment, making

ing the back round by the pivot

round the bottom, and

full

tight-fitting

fti&Z&ti&

-

:

;

vice

then continue from

it

L

versa

L

wider by swing-

if

to

is

it if

it

C B

is

required desired

AEF

and_

marking

I,

length from

off the

A

to I to the

measure

Hints on Making

taken phis seams, and arranging the relative length of

shown on figures or pointed, or any other way the customer may desire. So far we have only treated of a plain Cape without yoke or front, either square as

in

we

pleats,

now

will

describe

These more fancy

A

to arrange the Yokes.

waist-band

really

made very

nothing more than the top of the

back and forepart cut reference to diagram

The shaded

off

and a seam introduced, but a

will

(>i)

make

this perfectly

plain.

ABCD E

part of back as outlined by

is

it is generally made slightly pointed the square yoke downwards, both back and front but of course that is we have seen some very fanquite a matter of taste ;

;

:

The lower

tastic designs in the outline of these yokes.

part of the Cape with the square yoke

WTSLDE T

U

to

if

illustrated

is

by

pleats are required as per illus-

E to J and I to K of back, X, a quantity in accordance

add on from

trations, then

and

or

I,

W

and

to

with the number and style of pleats desired, but we will The pointed yokes are cut

are generally in-

silk,

a strip of silk

nearly always put to hold

is

only exception being

sides, the

it

in at the

when they

are

round the bottom, and not intended to

full

define the waist at all

These are

The yokes

and lined with

forming the front facing, except when they are lined right through with silk, but this is only occasionally. back and

How

styles.

terlined with canvas

;

but tins

a style

is

we have not

yet treated of, as they are only occasionally seen in

The edges

wear.

are

more generally turned in and hooks and eyes but

stitched, the fronts fastening with

there

no reason

is

;

Avhy, if so desired,

they should not

be made to fasten with holes and buttons. case the inch of button-stand

down

In such a would require adding all

Sometimes the front yoke

the front.

extend to the waist in front, though

it

is

cut to

looks the same

as the square yoke, the pleats being arranged on top,

this

shoulders firm and close to the figure, as

yoke extends to the waist figure

the

being done with the view of keeping the

by the aid

it

when

the

can be fastened to the

of the waist-band.

deal with these presently.

and dash line from C to F and P to V, in which case part of the shoulder is cut with the lower part, when of course two seams must be allowed of as per dot

In this way infinite variety

overlap.

may

a

very important part,

this

more general length to

and

there

as

so

is

much

beyond the range of work to attempt a description of them all. The direction,

this

the waist, whilst

about

:

for an

be allowed from slit is

T

to TJ

and

amount

W to X would be 9 inches.

front, so that the

arms may be brought forward w ith-

out lifting

lower part of the

the

it

becomes

the best desired,

it is

With

the

not so easy to adjust the pleats,

still

Cape.

fairly easy if the principle is

once mastered

;

way is to pleat up the material in the style and then lay down the pattern and cut it out

with the pleats already in the cloth.

This simplifies

the matter very considerably, and will always ensure the pleats being arranged satisfactorily.

We

will

Diagram

70.

Figure 47,

to

generally arranged at the back pleat of the

pointed yoke,

tape, square, &c.

ordinary

inches will be found sufficient for each

pleat, so that if three pleats are desired the

A

amount

now

give a few

Is decidedly the rally falls

open as

which is

is

it

and

the

name

is

pretty gene-

of the jelly-bag hood.

It

were, and shows the lining to advantage,

a feature

desired,

worthy of notice when a stylish

effect

as the materials used for lining vary so

much, embracing silk, satins, plush, velvet, &c, there no lack of material by which, in this way, to relieve and brighten a garment which would otherwise look Hoods are really an arrangement very heavy and dull. to cover the head, and this type is one of the most suitable for this purpose, being one of the roomy class is

The diagram .^su.

most popular type, and

known under

will

readily explain

how

it

may be

'•^asSse^ PRACTICAL GUIDE

THE CUTTERS

Diagram 74

The back

is cut on the crease or double edge and the bottom part, as from 20 to 12, is sewn together, the cut at neck from f to 4| is sewn up,

duced.

of the cloth,

band with

either to a

holes to fasten to buttons placed

round the neck, or it may be sewn in with the collar seam the former plan is the oue more generally ;

adopted, as

allows for the hood being detached

it

if

Is another of the

same

type, having only one point at

bottom, and a revers sewn on to a hollow edge as (

J^,

3,

'.*,

and overlapping each other at This forms a very pretty hood, and is not

going

to point,

off

bottom.

quite so complicated as the last one.

desired.

The Round Hood, diagram when

formerly,

Cloak.

It is

former one, and a cord the outside and

put in to a

is

drawn

forming a

in,

hem run

all

than our diagram (except for a child) and in many

described for the

them

The

would be decidedly preferable.

may be sewn

neck of this

last,

and

in

is,

in

Diagrams 75

way as that fact a method applicable the same

all.

We now come to what may be looked upon as the more unusual garments, and which perhaps causes the young cutter more worry and nervousness than any other

garments,

and when not in use, lies quite from shoulder to shoulder, being

Is very stylish looking,

across the back

As

double at that part.

will be seen, it is

produced by

the back and foreoart being placed with their shoulder

points touching, and a

V

taken out at neck, equal to £ of the breast, the bottom part is at D, being rounded so as to give

points

cut 1)

I)

bottom

a circular appearance at the bottom.

it

should be

as

at

back

with the

and

E

3,

sewn

12t>

sewn

on

the

It

double,

and

and

the

together,

to the corresponding

part of

sit

down on

distance from waist to the chair of the body,

and

if

;

is

to measure

is

This

still it

style

is

can be turned to practical use

effect if

than

desired.

a very favourite one with ladies,

and

allows full scope for the exhibition of any fancy liningdesired.

It lies quite flat

and a pointed

with two points at bottom,

which can be faced with any contrasting material. The back is cut on the double B B is sewn together, and those parts as from 14, revers

;

A

C C

to 10 are joined to the corresponding parts

on

Point 10, just above C, then lies on the top of 10 on the back. There is a point at 14, the other side.

by the crease edge, between C C and the pointed revers 10, 12£ turning back and formanother just above

it

a most effective hood.

to

ask

side, the

Another way

from waist to hip bone, and place the

The third method of getting the leg measure is to measure from centre seam of back on to the bone of wrist, as for a sleeve, and a quantity will thus be obtained which fork on a level of 3 inches below this.

wonderfully

coincides

Though,

of course,

with the

well

it

length

of

leg.

highly advisable to get the

is

is

it

always preferable to get

short rather than long, as the former causes

little

inconveniences owing to the position occupied when in

73,

from any of the foregoing, and

arranged more with the idea of producing

for use,

is

this gives the length

the saddle, being so different to gents Is quite a distinct style

avoided.

be deducted from the

this

accurate length of leg will be the result.

it

Fancy Pointed Hood, diagram

be

easily

and then measure the

a chair,

length of leg correct, yet

the other half.

very

the one most generally practised

;

the lady to

flat

may

to get the length of leg there are three very

;

good ways

72,

this

The first operation is of course measuring, and on this we will give a few hints. First measure from the waist to the full length of side desired, in the usual way as for gents

The Cape Hood, diagram

Plates 33 and 34.

to 79.

gathers

series of

which gives it a rather graceful appearance. It is well remark that this style should never be cut smaller

cases a larger one

Ladies' Trousers, Breeches and Gaiters.

round

to

to

Section Seven.

hood not nearly so popular as it was it formed part of the ladies' Circular cut on the crease down the back as the

a type of

Is

71, figure 48,

who

ride astride,

and consequently require their riding breeches to come close up to the fork, with plenty of length from fork to For the same reason, gents require a far more knee. open

style of cut

than

The remaining measures and bottom, are easily taken

ladies.

of waist, seat, size of knee,

as far as trousers arc concerned is

quite

different.

garments a

and

lift

;

but with breeches,

it

In those firms that make these

speciality, they ask the lady to take a seat,

the skirt over her knees and take the tight

knee, small, and calf in the ordinary way.

It will be

for our readers to decide whether they will follow this

them herself. For our no reason why any objection provided the operation is done in a

plan, or ask the lady to forward

own

part

we can

should be raised, business-like

way.

see

In

all

these

things

it

is

not so

much what you tact

soon

will

how you do

do, as

A

it.

enable the cutter to

Hints on Making.

judicious

over these

get

somewhat delicate operations with ease, and overcome that nervousness which betrays a want of expeWe will not dwell further on these preliminary rience.

utmost importance that the pcsition the

It is of the

lady occupies

when

mind, as that

is

be worn, hence,

remarks, but proceed to deal with

in the saddle should be borne in

the only position in which they should will be necessary

it

to manipulate the

sides differently.

The Trousers. At one time

they were

much how these were made big enough, but now

made so very how great is the

that the trains are readily be seen

were

it

will

necessity for their

much worn

Trousers are not so

fitting perfectly.

they

close fitting,

as

one time, breeches and leggings, or

at

breeches and top boots being largely patronised by the leaders of society

but inasmuch as the customers our

;

clients are likely to

have to cater

we think both trousers and

posed entirely of that give

diagrams of

from

materials

and

stockinette

One

not being com-

for,

class,

which

these

it

of dressed deer skin,

West End

makes

firms

close

make garments

We

worn with them.

rumours that

;

Devon knee bands,

amount

many

now worn by

The System

All those made from cloth have a

at the seat.

considerable portion of the seat and legs lined with

chamois, to prevent any possibility of chafing

;

seam

to the leg

may

that they others are

eyelets are placed at the back, so

;

be adjusted to the exact size of waist

made with

the sides, but this

flys at

by

is

and

however, have not

Plate 33.

76.

It is not necessary for us to point out

The V's taken out

at the

waist must

all

be neatly

by covering with galoon or some other similar method. Waist bands are never put to the trousers, the whole aim being to keep everything as finished either

thin as possible. silk,

The

waist band lining

which make a nice

is

invariably

finish to the top.

Breeches. Diagrams 77 &

Plate 34.

78.

These are precisely the same as the trousers in the body part, but of course tight-fitting from knee downwards, and in this respect they resemble gents panta-

the positions

tre line for

legs are cut

it

inch longer than the

1

E

measure for fulling on over the knee. centre line of the legs

;

C made 1^

both one third of the seat,

F may

be

E

from is

to B,

H

and E

I is the to

D

are

midway between E and to CI the half

inches,

both top and underside, an average mea-

be about 14 knee, 12^ small, 13^

and the

way, though

know these are may be as well to

hints

.

these 2h or 3 inches below the small enable our readers to cut from the most

may

;

meagre measures, which we know by experience, too often

all

are equally divided on

either side of

H

I,

of the legs

the usual

only

generally 4 or 5 buttons placed at the bottom of these of a flat kind, the buttons

friction

The widths

is

There are

he can get for that garment.

means

illustrated.

and 8| bottom,

calf

on the leg seam

as

calf,

generally about 2 inches below the knee,

is

waist and 3 inches, the waist being reduced to size by of V's,

when

side, so

on the right side being put

as to prevent all

in the saddle.

This plan

is

unnecessary also followed

with

widths for trousers being about 16 knee, 15 bottom.

The

In drafting the undersides, come up from C to J,

Gaiters,

Diagram

79.

1 inch more than from C to E, and square the scat seam from J by letting the other arm of the square rest on B make up the size of the seat at the side, by

These are cut in the same style as a coachman's, though some firms continue the tongue up to the top,

allowing 2 or 3 inches for seams and ease, continuing

a point in detail wherein different firms vary.

;

the sideseam to the top pretty straight, and reducing it

to the necessary size

by means of

V's.

;

distributed equally on either side of cen-

is

sure of a lady's leg at these parts for a 24 waist, would

found

mention that the

about

2 inches of the ankle, or say ten inches below the knee

the small

in the usual

;

far

the older plan.

the width

Dias. 75

they

are generally finished with fly fronts, the fly extending

of top, leg, or bottoms, as our readers

;

(usually

on a like

loons, for they are generally extended to within

These,

become very general.

to

pommel fulled

the material selected for these being of the

most masculine patterns.

D

and the underside

leg),

or top

;

knickerbocker

as

at the knee, quite

This firm

have heard

ladies are patronising the

breeches with the

gentlemen

right

of this class to fasten quite

below the knee, and supply leggings

boots are

yet

a speciality

which allows of the desired form

being imparted with the utmost nicety. generally

The

breeches.

elastic cloths.

of the leading

the

preferable to

mostly made are

are

on

sides should be fulled

inch for the leg that goes over the

1

did not matter

it

cut, so long as

The top

Plate 33.

instead of the

Draw

lines

ankle, bottoms,

.P^^g^j^

-

method

illustrated

;

but this

is

merely

and mark off the length to &c, and measure back from this

16,

calf,

line

half the size of the leg at the various, parts plus \

inch

thus at

;

=7

seams

= 6| + \

13^

half of

calf,

inch

fox-

Arrange the run of the buttons to agree

j.

with the sideseam of breeches, and leave an inch for button stand on the one 0, 16, as to 1^

much

and come out from

1\ inches, allowing

is

bottom, and

if

illustrates

it

line

thus

;

a very good

produce a very good

size pattern, starting in all cases If)

behind

the figures are taken to represent

inches all over, this will

ond from

is

inch for button stand,

1

The diagram

would equal 2|. size of

side,

as the button stand

from

medium

for the length

The diagram

exactly represents the inside of a Train

E F

with the seam at

The vent

ripped open.

fl

and a pocket

generally inserted in the facing as illus-

is

The under

trated.

part and top part are lined over

the seat and knee with Silesia, to take some of the wear

caused by the friction with the saddle, the position of this being is

shown with the dot and dash

cut,

from

and

up

also stretched

diagram

gaiter

illustrates

and as they are now largely used in the Winter, we have no doubt our reathey are made ders will have occasional calls for them

shown by

FJ

I

is

put together plain

is

it

inches long

;

to produce them,

all

our readers will have to do will be to take this diagram,

and measure from the bottom

The tongue

desired.

for these is carried through to

Sometimes the buttons are run in a

the top always.

curve towards the front, but this ders

will

upwards the length

should so desire

is

be able to alter

readily

a variation our reaif

their customers

The

material

at

is

making the

all

The length

thin.

sides as at

waist to ground

C

D

when standing,

much

merely consisted of so

They

at waist).

without waistbands

bound, and

left

put on

is

cloth pleated into the

:

is

waist,

Ladies' Skirts.

in the former case they are merely

so for the sake of thinness, but if a

it is

as well to have a point to put at

this

be given more to illustrate how these may be cut by system, for though we do not generally advise such will

useful in cutting

for children

a very great assist-

is

its

Whatever

position.

adopted for finishing the waist at top,

should

it

and hooks should be put on by which to fasten and

sides of the bodice part.

slight variation in the size of waist

heading we purpose giving illustrations of a variety of Riding Trains, two of which will be reduced models of West End garments, and the third

size.

band

with and

are finished at waist both

to tabs fixed at back

it

now much

trains being

be carefully arranged to agree with the exact size of

Section Eight.

of catting these garments, yet

regulated by

is

agree with the length from

shorter than they were in the olden time (when trains

plan

method

the letters corre-

The bottom is finished with a broad hem, in which weights of lead are frequently inserted when the

tance to the lady in adjusting

a

is

all

together.

the centre of front as at X, which

Under

topside

at L, but at

sponding show where the various seams are to be sewn

band

it.

;

on to the

fulled

shown by marks

as

;

to 10

and elastic That part

line,

put on in a suitable position for each boot.

other parts

The bottom part of the how these garments may be

is

placed either at the side or front, according to taste,

opposite part of the fish on either side.

Spats.

EFG,

the corresponding letters going together in each case.

of the underside as

for the widths.

shown by

to the right side of under pait, as

is

especially

or any out of the

way

may be arranged by

reducing the size of cuts in under part at sidepiece at N, but

if

there

more than

is

of difference in size of waist,

or reduce the parts topsides

all

will

1

K

and

of

or l\ inches

be best to enlarge

throughout by adding to or taking from

it

down, as at

whilst

:

it

it

Any

made by adding

all

AB

of underside

variations in

to or taking

and C

J >

of

must be

the length

from the bottom.

For general purposes

In Cutting from the Cloth

The West End Train, Plate

35,

Great care must be used to have the face of material

Will meet the requirements of the ordinary run of cus-

tomers better, tested

and

it

being a pattern that has been carefully

tried

by a large number, and

improved as to leave

little

to be desired.

is

now

so

It is largely

used in the West End, as well as the most fashionable

hunting

As

will be seen, it consists of three pieces, viz.,

back

Diagram 80), side (Diagram «1), and front (Diagram 82), which are put together exactly as they are placed on the diagram the right side of top part being joined :

and we think we cannot better explain

ourselves than to say, lay the pattern

sented in the diagram,

i.e.,

down

as repre-

presuming the cloth to be

opened out with the wrong side uppermost. Place the pattern of the top part with the side at C D close up to left

districts.

(

right side out,

hand

selvage, standing with the

cloth towards you.

The under

part

is

bottom

of the

then taken out

by laying it with A B close up to the right hand and then taking the sidepiece out from the

selvage,

most convenient part with

D

towards the right.

.24LL

%

G

3^^«pS

l

TO CUTTING LADIES

These instructions apply

to the

ordinary style of riding

with the right leg resting on the pommel of the saddle. There are a few ladies who ride with the left leg in that

when

position,

these instructions

must be

reversed, but

GARMENTS.

the bottom, but increase,

W D,

as at

V

to lower the

from 12

so that the distance

may

be

a great

for the knee,

K

to

with the measure taken on the customer. in the size of waist alone

such cases are few and far between.

show

the side length should

if

would be well

it

agrees

Variations

made by enlarging

or

reducing the V's, whilst for ladies, larger or smaller,

A

"

Try-on

"

both in seat and waist, the variation should be made

through from

Should always be arranged,

bottom

is

if

possible, as the

a special feature with those

branch a study, and this can arranged by a " try-on," as

it

who make

only be is

run of this

successfully

desire.

will be found more simple and any elaborate calculation of leg length,

manner, which

A dummy

&c.

may

position of the elastics for foot can also be decided

in this

as previously described for the

kept for this purpose in

is

leading ladies' tailoring establishments, but

should not possess this desideratum,

Of

the hands of the lady's

wearer,

this train are, first, its being left

there a large hole

it

in case of accident there

from the

to free itself

be safely

about

maid and the intended

A

adjust

will

these little details to a

all

avoided, and

is

double strip of elas-

sewn on

is

placed at 3 0, so that the elastic

who

56,

plenty of room for the Train

is

saddle.

inches long

t)

I) to

W D of topside,

that the usual surplus mate-

of underpart, so

the

all

open from

cut as illustrated at

is

between the knee and the pommel

the firm

if

may

V

and F

tic left in

way,

West End Train.

The Special Features

rial

horse

Care must, of

require.

always advisable to

prepared to advise her upon any point she

successful than

may

case

course, be taken to get the pattern cut the right

consult the ladies' wishes, while at the same time being

The

by merely adding to or deduct-

to 40,

ing from as the

at A,

and

a

button

may come under

the

knee and secure the lady at that part and in order to avoid any possibility of the elastic becoming unfastened, ;

nicety.

a short loop of twisted cord

The Diagram drawn to the one-twelfth scale, and should produce a garment when made up to measure 2^ yards round the bottom for a 24 waist, Full size patterns of this Is

may

be obtained at our

Is. 7d.,

office,

price

Is. 6d.,

post free

which method may be preferred by many of our

readers to drafting

it

out for themselves.

Many

84.

Plate 36.

much aggravated by

fastened to

their

Habit

Trains catching in the saddle, has induced some of the inventive minds to prepare a Train in such a style as offer the least resistance to the

complete

fall

We

have recently had

several of these through our hands,

and the diagrams

from her

of the lady

on Plate 36

horse.

a reduced model of one of these,

is

if our readers will reproduce by the ordinary tape, be suitable for an average lady of 24 waist and 40

side length.

We

shall not go over the diagram point would serve no purpose, especially as these are seldom cut by system, indeed, we believe we

by

point, as

it

shall be right in

saying that

engaged in the best

91)

it

cutters out of every 100

ladies' trades cut their trains

it is still

will

elastic

the elastic should work held by the loop

:

is

itself

this loop

up when walking, when Below 1 7 of undersides.

be noticed there are four

elastic

on the under

loops,

which are fastened

part

neither of these are stayed with linen, as the

;

it

open

away

to break

to the buttons

is

to allow

the weight of the

these tabs or buttons from their

place in case of the lady being thrown

from her

horse,

and the train catches on the pommel.

As some

of our

readers

may

this safety arrange-

desire a train without

W

and I) the amount to be ment, we have outlined at filled in of the topside, and from ;);>h to V of the under-

when

will

it

be made up in the ordinary

style,

closed all round.

A

few hints on Making.

and

which, will

if

fastened to the button at

the opening

side,

would not

so that

it,

useful to hold the skirt

is also it is

put at 8 close to the but-

is

put over the button after the

free of the button,

body

accidents to ladies thrown from their horses,

having been very

is

object of having

The New Safety Train. Diagrams 83 and

which

ton,

out in

though for those who prefer a system we give one on the next page, so that our remarks on this New

The shaded

parts of top and underside are lined with

linen or silesia, the stays for the footstraps are covered

with Italian cloth, and the opening sian binding or 'leather, a waist

round the

top,

and may either be

lian cloth, the latter

of thinness.

The

is

band

bound with Prusgenerally put

is

of of

Melton or Ita-

being often preferred on account

cuts or V's are usually taped, and

this way,

the opening for putting on or off

Safety Train, will be more of a practical than a scien-

and 4, or it may be arranged at front as at 12, 10^, in which latter case it is fastened together with hooks and ev

tific nature.

Variations in length should be

made

at

side,

-(a-^^^i^g.

forming

a continuation

is

of the

either

V

at

made

f>.\,

:>

at the

;

placed about 1

inch apart

and

;

in the former it

fastened together with holes and buttons and a

pocket

is

usually inserted in the opening, the outline of

which we have

A broad and

hem, say 3 inches,

In cutting

be used not to cut ners make.

on the

by the dot and dash

illustrated

in cutting, an inlay

seam.

is

A

fly.

it

it

is

from the cloth inside out, an

5G inches wide material

;

but

special care

must

use,

begin-

first

many

error

down

if it

as

placed

it is

should not run quite

put on the topside

easily be

Complicated as this garment looks at

first sight,

a

show it to be really of a very simple nature, and such as any tailor of ordinary expe-« rience might make easily, the principal feature being to locate the knee accurately, and avoid all surplus examination

will

The length

materia], whether at seat or lap.

made

is

Systems such as this one are only arrived at after much study and extended experiment

now

lay before our readers,

indeed, this which

;

we

occupying but a page of

this work, has taken years of study in its

development and though we do not claim perfection for it, we have will

it

produce

Train, and be especially useful in

way

above referred

sizes

good-fitting

a

those out of the

to, as well as

forming a foun-

dation for others to elaborate and perfect.

The Measures

gene-

show the golosh of the boot of the stirrup foot. Various methods are adopted to hold the Habit and Train together, hooks and eyes, or tabs and buttons being the two most frequently employrally

and the one we now lay before our readers for the time will, we feel sure, be equal to all such cases.

every confidence that

at 56.

closer

lead to failure.

It is for such cases that a system based on what we believe to be sound principles is of especial

of material required will be 3 yards of

so wide, a wheel piece can

would

be found not only inappropriate, but almost certain to

side-

Plate, the face of the cloth should be uppermost.

The quantity

for the cutter to use his ordinary block pattern

down the

round the bottom,

is left

usually left

If the pattern is laid

lines.

beginning her career as an equestrienne, and as her form is altogether different to that of the normal figure,

to just cover or

Required are

round

waist, seat,

side,

and knee,

sent

with right leg raised as in the act of riding (this latter

may

be

omitted, but

decidedly preferable)

is

;

they

at the side just below

would probably stand 40 side, 24 waist, 40 seat, G4 seat and knee. The applicaaion of these measures is as follows draw line A to C is the side length

17 on line

A

We

ed.

possible

have placed buttons on the diagram, one

1\ on line 2, and one just above 5|, which seam would come as nearly as

down

the centre of back, the centre of front

ABC;

:

B

to

B

D

to

;

one-fourth side, and square across to

the fork quantity of trousers,

marked by

is

assist the

a little

white cotton on the waistband to

wearer in adjusting

it

length

These are the principal

points to be observed in

making this Train. We have previously dealt with trying them on, and many other hints of a general nature, and which our readers will doubtless remember should ;

any point

in the

diagram not be quite

to the one-twelfth scale,

We may

also

clear, it is

drawn

and may be found accordingly.

add that patterns of

this style of train

can

be had from the Tailor and Cutter Office, special reference being

made when ordering

to the

New

The Cutters' Practical Guide Riding Train by System.

Diagram

85.

L P

:

Plate 37.

is

J

:

L

to

is

P

to

made up

is

B

off

circumference plus

inch,

1

measuring back from

M

now

;

P

I

J

half

P

to

;

;

thus the total

this

may

half seat

also

be

and knee

and point L found by knee circumference. Come

M from to H inches, and draw line M a pivot, and sweep from R to P. We 1

turn to the upper part

angles to

D

plus li

hollow from

;

BD;

one-fourth side, which

half knee circumference

obtained by measuring

up from L to * J make

I corresponds with

one-third

viz.,

about equal to one-third of the leg

B

distance from

Safety

Train.

as I) I

be found

will

properly.

same

the

D

one-fourth seat, and

is

being fixed midway between h\ and lo|, and should be

DLP;

B, and

;

square line

mark from E

E

to

F

to

G

D E

at right

one-fourth waist

about 1^ inches, or an

amount equal

to one-sixth of the disproportion of waist

in the reverse

way

as followed for corpulent

taking the ideal as waist G inches

V

less

trousers,

than seat

;

take

H, and terminate it about 4 inches down this is often used to form the opening. Square line F K at right angles to F J, and make F K one fourth waist plus ^ inch, and continue the run of waist across as shown, and connect K R as shown take out two fishes of about inches each as shown, so that out

1

inch in a

at

;

It is generally

acknowledged that the majority of

cutters produce their Riding Trains

from block patand we are not going to dispute the efficacy of so doing, as we believe it is one of the best methods of producing the general run of Trains. But there are times in the experience of most cutters whose business lies to any extent in the ladies' trade, that orders have come for very out-of-the-way sizes. Most probably terns,

.this conies in the

shape of the

little

girl

who

is

just

;

H

they will come just over the knee.

by coming down from at right angles to

out about trated,

-(^jg^^j!££,.

1

P

L ;

to

Continue below

shape the side by springing

inch at C, and slightly round

and the topside

is

P

\\ inches, and squaring

complete.

it

it

as illus

;

The Underpart \

by laying down the cut-out forepart, and sweepfrom A to X, using G as a pivot, and making A to ing X 4 inches, and draw side of underside from X to C. Now make star a pivot, and sweep from K to S, and mark off 4 inches draw a line from X to S, and Is got

;

reduce to the size of the waist by means of V's as illusabout 1 inch above line S X. making from 1 to 2 inches, and take Come out from R to

TUVW

trated,

Y

Y to

correspond in quantity with the two fishes from the forepart, taking out the surplus length from in a V upwards, as illustrated by dotted line at to

out

M

Y

Complete the outline of undersides by the topsides, making it rather hollower at the bottom, as shown

M.

by the dotted

A

lines.

sides, as illustrated

fish

may

be taken out of top-

by dot and dash

very clean-fitting lap

is

from I, if a more room is

line

If

desired.

These are sometimes used in making a foundation, by joining a piece of straight or slightly sloped material on at the bottom, as is illustrated on Diagram 87, from 20 downwards, the back being pleated on.

line 7

advantage of this method

The

the thinness round the

is

all V seams or fulness most useful pattern in many ways

waist and hips, as by this means are avoided.

—

It is a

such, for instance, as fashioning the drapery, illus-

trated on figures on diagrams

A

front of skirt and

to

7

putting point 5^ to the shaping the top by b\ 0,

;

;

and continuing over the hips from extra length of side

This, however,

illustrated. It

may

merely one of

is

it

may

Newmarket

and

type,

be used for them

in the case of short

but we have no doubt

;

our readers will soon find the uses to which put, so

uses.

its

be used to cut the top edge of the flaps for

jackets of the skirts

when the

to 20,

pleated in to form the folds, as

is

we

will pass

may

it

be

on to deal with

desired over the seat of undersides, increase the quantity to S, which will have the same and to

from

K

X

A

The Skirt System.

an increased seat angle would to trousers, the principle involved in this Train being very similar to effect as

employed in trousers cutting must be taken to locate the knee

"

correctly, and, if

possible, it will be as well to take a

found

Care

generally.

those

measure from

when in the saddle, and then apply it M, which may increase or reduce the distance to I. The same hint we have previously given

The measures side

and back,

Diagram

necessary for this are

length of front,

:

waist.

from

I to

from

M

and are applied as follows Draw line from from to 7 to 20 is half seat always, and from to 40 is the length of

making

of Trains will apply with equal force to

them

be quite unnecessary for us to again

here.

come and draw a inch

;

in from line

from

Shaped Skirt Band. Diagram 86. Plate 38. Of

the odds and ends the ladies' tailor has to

all

know how

to produce, there is probably

none

of

more

usefulness than the shaped skirt band, as

general

it

Hence we give a simple system for producing such. The measures necesthe depth of band, the size of waist, and the sary are admits of such general application.

:

which for the present we will say are 7 seat measure taken about 7 deep, 24 waist, 40 seat

size of seat,

;

Commence by drawing ;

from

to 7

from Italian cloth

it

of course

on the

may

is

line

7

0,

inches

7, ;

0, 12 at right

come out

1,

and

to 12 from to 1 draw line from as the pivot from which sweep up to 5^, using point from 12 to 5^ is one-third of the difference between by a gradual waist and seat, and draw top from 5 h to hollow to get the run of the front come up from 5^ to 11, as much as from 12 to f>i, and then draw the 11, making the front from 5^ to A at right angles to is

;

half waist,

length to agree with measure taken, and complete by adding on a button-stand wherever it is desired, in the illustrated at

\ ^ inch,

it

finds the

not impera-

it is

but when cub

crease,

be so with advantage

;

make

from ^ to 4 one-eighth of waist now come in from 20 to 19 one inch, and draw line from 19 through 20 to ;

find run

of the side

;

now

if

it

is

desired to get

it

come in less from 19, but on no account reduce the size from 7 to 20, as that must be retained in order to provide room for the seat now reduce the top to one and a half inches less than though, in half waist by means of V's, as illustrated making, we prefer to arrange the two back ones by as by that pleats, rather than by cutting the V's out smaller round the bottom edge,

;

;

means any

The

variation in the size of the hip

front drapery illustrated on right

1.

is

provided

hand

figure

for.

on

diagram 87, is arranged just the same as. this, the back V's being generally dispensed with, and the fulness put If it is desirable to have a in to the band at side.

;

manner

;

;

inches below waist.

angles

tive that this should be

;

24,

20

front, plus

and drop through 7, which

1

the

7 inches

is

to 1 1 inch,

centre crease edge of front

;

40,

:

;

this, so that it will

repeat

These would probably stand, 39^, 40, 41

40,

of

size

down from

hips taken rather easily, about 7 inches

waist to knee

for the

and

waist taken tightly,

size of

87.

seam down the

side of foundation

;

the

V

at

9^

may

be continued through to the bottom as illustrated by indeed, all the V's may be done in dot and dash line ;

way if seams are desired to introduce now come to the back foundation.

this

effect.

AVe

Diagram

Drapery.

88.

To This

merely a piece of material 13 inches wide

is

top and bottom, the back being cnt on the crease, this is

drawn in

duced

and

to li inches a side at the top,

to the size of

the

but to counteract the

waist,

hollowing tendency of this drawing

must be added

so re-

a

in,

little

round

to the top.

r

The it

materials mostly used for foundations are linen?

combines

better

and

The

5 or

(>

is

and a facing

on the top of

;

while

weal's

it

seamed up with the seams to come is put all round the bottom some

inches deep, so that the bottom

this facing also

silk,

as

linen,

is

far less expensive.

The foundation outside,

best of these

the advantages of

all

it is

this

about 4 or 5 inches deep

;

bound with

is

a narrow kilt

this

put

is

done more with

is

the view of keeping the skirt out round the bottom

than for

it

though as we write there

to show,

decided tendency for them to be seen, and in cases are put left at

on the top

An opening is

of the drapery.

:

its

and

a facing put on so as to

The waist-band

existence in wear.

is

undoubtedly a work of art

the most suitable,

it

we may

stood that any rules

;

at once be under-

it will

lay

down

are to be applied

in a general sense, leaving the special application to

the figure to the draper's judgment. material has a considerable effect on the drapery

heavy, thick material needs far

less to

;

form a fold than

The warp or lengthways of the material should down the figure, and if not wide enough to

thin.

always run

produce the desired

effect, join

always avoid a seam

down the

on some on either

side

;

centre of front.

Drapery consists of an artistic arrangement of folds and hangings, and there can be no doubt that the best means o! becoming proficient in this art is by experi-

The foundation

ment.

skirt

may

be likened to the

and pictures and other ornamentation hung upon them. With the view of illustrating the principal methods of draping walls of a house, the drapery to the paper

we have prepared a

series of figures.

Figure 49, Plate 39.

some

5h inches long, the top about 5 inches from the waist on the left side an opening is left quite 10 inches long This should be to allow the wearer to put it on or off. hide

make

is

as each figure requires certain adaptations

a

is

the right sideseam for the pocket to go in, about

well stayed at the bottom,

to

The

As these garments are somewhat out of the ordinary run, we w ill give a few extra instructions, so that the inexperienced may know how to proceed Italian cloth, silk, &c.

drape a skirt well

and inasmuch

Plate 39.

best of

Illustrates a

deep

The

kilt.

height to the figure, and

is

artistic effect of this

either as illustrated or in a modified form.

duced at the

sacrifice

adds

generally a favourite style, It

pro-

is

suppose your

of width, thus:

foundation skirt was 40 long and 2± yards round, your material would then be cut off in lengths of say 42 to 44, the extra 2 inches allowed for

hem

the

at bottom,

and the bottom part double, and allows the foundation to be sewn to the one part and then the drapery to be slipped under the top one, and the whole firmly fastened together.

longer lengths allowing for the extra length of back

Putting on the waist-band

whilst for thin materials treble quantity will be needed.

k

section, that

is,

the front or front less

the top part

and

is

is

single

a very important detail

sidepieces should take

than the entire waist

measure,

and

gathered or pleated in to 1^ inches aside

;

up

back

the

that

the

is,

foundation of back measuring 26 inches right across,

drawn

in to 3

inches.

;

3 inches

is

In arranging the V's of the

foundation at the side, we always prefer pleating them

these would then be seamed

yards round.

The

up

till it

a kilt can

smallest quantity

arranged from to look at

all

passable

the kilt

is

be

double quantity,

is

The seams should always be hidden under which should

;

was from 4^ to 6|

the folds,

graded in at the waist. If will be necessary to keep it in

also be nicely

very deep

it

means of tape put about 14 inches apart thus a kilt right up to the waist would have two tapes, one 14 inches from the bottom and the other about 28. place by

;

over and not cutting them out, as by that means they adjust themselves to the shape of the figure at the hips automatically.

In dealing with very stout ladies

be found a very good plan to take out a horizontal

from the bottom of the second

V

V

forward, in the same

way as tailors usually treat big men's vests by this means a receptacle is formed for the prominence, and ;

the skirt

aimed

at,

is

kept well in at the bottom

little

result always

though of course care must be taken not

overdo this feature, as a

—a

it is

to

certainly preferable to have

excess of drapery, than to outline the stomach

too closely.

We

will

now

Horizontal Folds.

Plate 39-

Figure 50.

will

it

pass on to that most impor-

tant phase of ladies' skirt making,

To produce these, extra length is required, the points below the folds would be exactly the same as the foundation

;

each fold would consume about 4 inches of

length in a fairly good substance cloth.

method

of arranging these satisfactorily

of draping

and make

it it

on the figure

direct

you can judge the

&J&Z&&PJ*.

is

to get

&c,

The

best

in the absence

a

dummy

to as near as

and shape of the figure. The dummies so made up of all Take the foundation, and hav

size

best ladies' tailors keep their best customers.

.

—

up, by wrapping cloth,

—

^a^ser^ TO CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

put

it

&c, arrange your

into the waist band,

drapery on

this

desired effect

the

till

Figures 52 and 53, Plate 39.

folds of

produced.

is

There is no golden rule for this nothing but practice and experiment can teach you how to drape artistically

One

of its especial features is its giving consonance

;

your customers, inasmuch as every figure has peculiar feature, its points of beauty to bring out, for

all

points of ugliness to tone

down

;

materials vary considerably in the

good

rale

apply at

vest in

way they form

folds,

The

for another.

all

so that

;

artistic

effect of folds

on figure 50,

across the figure as illustrated it

its

what might be a for one material or one figure, would not

other words, drape

or, in

its

never be lost sight of

which

in addition to

is

make

to

a rule of ornamentation that should

to the costume,

it,

material as the vest at some part. it

made

to

on

By

figure 53.

appear narrower

panel gives vertical

;

Figure 51.

Diagonal Folds.

same

stout lady

a

such means the figure

which divides the width and

lines,

if

best advantage

when

is

the introduction of a front

adds apparently to the length, which effect

may

still

the panels are slightly draped

or of a striped material.

Plate 39.

If for

could not be better than up the centre of front, as

illustrated

further be emphasized

appear wider and shorter.

thus, suppose the bodice has a

;

the skirt should have a panel of the

A of

it is

panel always appears to richer material

than the

skirt itself.

These are produced at the expense of both length

and width, and are the most difficult to arrange for in any other way than by draping the figure or the dummy but if it is desired to form some as already described

Figure 52, Plate 39, Illustrates another

method

combination of

of usincr a

;

idea of the shape the material required for this drapery,

mark where

take the foundation pattern, desired,

and cut

it

the folds are

this will only give a general idea,

and must

actual draping on the figure or

ed by

and

across at each part so marked,

allow 4 inches (or more) space between the parts

;

but

be correct-

dummy.

Dia-

materials,

which

at different times has

popular, especially

when

become very

The

polonaises are in vogue.

same remarks we have just made as regards the repetition of idea from the bodice, applies to this but there is one remark we must not omit, and that is ;

:

never arrange the darkest material to come at the bot-

gonal folds have a very graceful appearance, as they

tom, as at a

neither produce length at the expense of width, nor

terminates with the light part, and

there is a grace about width at the expense of length all hardness of outline, and

to be the apron, the figure

little

distance the length of the figure this is arranged

if

would be very much stunted.

;

the curve which take away

makes

it

generally a favourite.

bered that whenever a fold effect is the

same

is

It should

be remem-

introduced, the artistic

was placed on the

as if a line

figure,

which makes it appear longer in the direction it is In arranging drapery it is always advisable running. to keep the straight thread of the material straight

down

the front

;

as

if

it

twisted

is

more

to the

one

would be greater on the one side than the other, and would consequently cause in referring to this we the folds to hang differently side than the other, the bias

A

reference to figure 50 will illustrate this, the length

of the

ending just below the braid.

skirt apparently

Figure 52 illustrates

how

it

should be arranged, the

light material being at the bottom.

Figure 50 shows

how

is

it

ought not to be done.

If

it

desired to get

may

the dark part at the bottom, this defect

be avoided

by the introduction of a flounce or crossway band along the bottom of the drapery, and so attracting the eye to notice it. These are little points, but it is in the attention paid to such trifles that ladies' tailoring becomes a fine art.

;

are not ignoring the fact that draperies are often ar-

ranged on the

bias,

but the same rule applies.

to be arranged

on the

forms the true

bias,

If

bias, see that the centre of front

when

the folds

diagonal) will

(if

come on the straight of the material in the same way as if the warp was placed down the centre of front, the We will not dwell on this folds would be on the bias. subject of folds, &c, longer, as any variety that may be introduced must come under one of the three and the same horizontal, vertical, or diagonal heads principles which govern them at one place must be applied to produce them in another in order to get A most effective method of skirt similar effects. ;

:

making

is

illustrated

Skirt for Check Material, Figure 54.

it is

Checks have two serious drawbacks when used on any but the finest figures. First, they make the figure appear wider

adding

without

secondly, they cut the figure

to

height,

the

and,

up into squares, which

at

once enables the slightest difference in the sides of the wearer to be detected

;

indeed,

more often

true, as they

when the checks

decidedly one-sided appearance.

avoiding this

is

are not

are not, they give the wearer a

The

best

to arrange the material

which course avoids the hard

set square,

method

on the

of

bias,

and instead of and vertical,

crossing the figure on the true horizontal

arranged by the combination of material as

they ran diagonally, and then have a tendency rather

on

to

add

m.

to

the height than the width.

This same

method is used very frequently for the hodice, but the more general way is to arrange the bodice with the pattern running in the same way as diagram 22, and Much might be written on the the skirt on the bias. but our readers know their varieties

varieties of checks,

and the many beautiful blends

which makes them so

and

which they are made

in

attractive

;

so

we

will

pass on to

has to braid a skirt, he either has to get a ready pre-

pared design that can be transferred to the material with a hot iron, or has to design one himself, which, he has any idea of drawing,

Flounces or Tucks.

if

a very easy operation.

Let him take a daisy and a few leaves, or any other flower,

and then blend them together, and ho

soon

will

get a very pretty design.

Having got

paper over and pricks

through with a good sized

pin

Figure 55.

is

;

this gives

same pattern

him

it

this

he folds his

the other half of his design of the

He

as his original drawing, but reversed.

then places this pricked design on his cloth, in the

The

artistic effect of these

undoubtedly to create

is

width at the expense of length.

former

style, it is

In the case of the

merely a series of flounces arranged

one above the other on the foundation the

style

;

with the later

position he desires the braiding to be,

some white powder over do, but able.

it is

it

rather coarse,

Having

carefully

and French chalk

pin-ho'.e with

he

removes the

skirt

this,

paper design, and then

much longer than

proceeds to

was needed. For every

some

must

cut

longer,

our readers

soon

can

ance

be quite distinct being easily

accord-

with

of tucks

desired.

This of

style

Having got the outline

skirt

a very

up

without

foundation.

range the

a

as

In

is

a

the

very

Fig 56. -Braided Skirts.

Figure 55.— Flounces or Tucks,

popular skirt for

care,

young ladies who are still growing, the one great recommendation being, the flounces can be let down as they grow taller but as the ladies' tailor does not do much for this class we will pass en to deal with :

The

be

and

patient,

braid

some very

artistic

result

ar-

If

strand

a

should

braid

used for sewing.

the

mostly used

to

stitches so

not to show.

possihle,

a modified style this

is

simple process,

always trying

made

be

distinct, the put-

ting on of the braid

would most probably

by a

obtained

reference to the design.

the

number

de-

any part that may not

necessary

in

and

the

spots with a quill pen,

quantity required

little

indicated by the

sign

calculate

the

a

water,

mark round

^ii fii if

that

so

with

it

gum and

If liifltf

inches

6

white and

flake

mix

be

Take

way.

stantial

inch

tuck desired, the skirt

his

in

fill

design in a more sub-

for

:

:i

prefer-

is

gone over every

would be cut very

example

and sprinkles

— finely scraped pipeclay will

of

be

Use

reward you

will

a narrow Russia, though

is

results are got

by using different

kinds of braid, some of which are of a very ornamsntal character,

and show up a decided contrast to the narin this way are useful in working in

row Russia, and

Figure 56.

Braided Skirts.

designs of leaves and flowers. lie

Braid

is

always

a

favourite style of ornamentation

with the high-class ladies'

tailor

and,

;

done and the braid of good quality, else

to

tion.

designs,

stamp the garment Braid that

as

generally

the one side reverse.

is

nicely

needs nothing

high-class produc-

arranged

is is.

of the other, only in

a

it

when

on

symmetrical

an exact repetition

When

the ladies' tailor

Very much more might

written on this subject of skirts and skirt drapery,

but we have already extended our remarks somewhat, this being a subject that

is

not so well understood us

other branches of the tailoring trade, but a tice

and

a little

gested will soon matter, and

experiment on the simplify

a

little

few hints on

prac-

we have sug-

what may appear

pave the way for success.

conclude this section by ii£

lines

We

a difficult

will

now

Back Drapery As worn .")4

at

This

present.

simply a

is

Sometimes

at the back.

arranged with one

it is

large box pleat, at others two, but the principle

"When

same.

the

is

and bustles were worn, an extra

steels

round was needed

go over them, but as

at the top to

these are now out of date, there is only the smallest The back is generally amount of round necessary. made with plenty of material in its drapery, but the

same principles apply

to

as with the front drapery as

it

regards folds, &c., so that

will

it

Square lines

width of

full

inch material gathered or box pleated into the waist-

band

Diagram

The System.

be unnecessary for us

the gorge

is

V F: from V

length, below which

D

V

swept by point

is

F

to

it is

to sj

;

to

:

from

:

down

as

continued to taste

the shoulder

of

slope

inches more than

a fourth

be drawn, hollowing

drawn

is

hollowed

1

inch

F

;

squared

which

I),

AY

to

is

2

may now

the scye

1):

line

the

from AY, and the waist

a button stand

;

front of about

than

is

to

front of

in

right angles

at

inch or more

h

breast

less

from 2 to

;

from 8

:

one-

the natural waist

shown, and a line drawn from

finds the

fact

is

to 2

f inch

is

is

'>h

1

V

one-fourth breast, from which a line

is

one-sixth

is

the bottom of the gorge, in

one-fourth of the breast

down

-ooo

21,

eighth of the natural waist

side

to repeat.

V

of the neck, as also

Plate 40.

88.

and

inch,

left

is

on

front

is

AYe now tike the front to cut the back, and lay

it

the

1

the

complete.

Section Nine.

down scye

and Combinations.

Blouses, Shirts

as per dotted line of

diagram

inch, as in

1

from

and add

1),

1

In reviewing the previous sections to see what gar-

we

of,

caters for

the

many sex

tl.e fair

is

called

upon

in

the back

a line straight across

beyond the extreme edge of he about 2 inches to full on or

especially noticed

garments the

special

fill

:

pleat into the yoke on either side.

The Yoke, Diagram

those which form the subject of this section.

Amongst

draw

:

2

inch

front, so that there will

ments have not been treated

diagram

tailor

who

make, the shirt

to

Plate 40.

90,

g!

by the forepart, which is represented by the *f$> lint to dotted line, the shoulder seam is cut the same find the back seam, come up half way between the Is cut also

:

and blouse

worn, being suitable for

be

it

boating, lawn

mostly

the garments that are

are perhaps

all

kinds of outdoor exercise,

tennis,

or the latest development

bottom of gorge and V, give

for ladies'

cricket

but probably the larger share of

:

the orders the tailor receives will

tumes

The to 93.

From

to 2

the fourth

These are of course mostly made from cambric, and gent's shirt, the front

a

being inserted of a different width stripe, or the front

may

be the only

white.

part

striped, the

our readers look

If

from «|

to

at

a

This

style

is

pass on to

AY

body part being and see

gent's shirt,

:

Diagram

Sleeve,

whatever

2 inches, or

is

the breast

of

sleeve desired

got up in the same way as

now

extra width below

to taste.

for boating cos-

lie

Diagrams 88

Shirt.

We

very popular.

in flannel or similar materials.

The Marlow

a little

and shape the remainder

I),

is

allowed over

when drafting the forepart

continue on to

;

91.

make from

to

2

17^, the length of

8| the half

size

of

any allowance that may lie desired for pleatThe ing on the shoulder, and make the width to taste. bottom of the sleeve is put into a cuff, the outline of which is illustrated on diagram scye, plus

'.):!.

how

that

making

is

made, they

There

these.

rence, they are

left

extend to about is

.">

will

is,

open

have a capital guide for

however, one important all

down

inches below the waist.

generally worn under the skirt,

a fancy

being worn over the waist band of the is

diffe-

and only That part

the front,

Diagram '.)2 shows one of the many styles of collars worn on these garments, and which it is unnecessary for us to describe further, as the only variation

sary to introduce

is

neces-

the length.

waist belt

skirt.

A

tape

Lady's Blouse.

Diagram

94.

placed at the waist, and a drawing tape run through

it,

thus enabling the fulness to be equally distributed

all

round the

effective.

waist,

This garment

frequenters of the as well as

or as

at those

is

may

lie

deemed the most

very popular amongst the

Thames Valley

in the

Summer

time,

fashionable seaside resorts, such as

Brighton, Hastings, &c.

This

is

probably one of the simplest garments

possible to cut,

as

it

is

really

it

is

only the outline of

a

minus any waist suppressions. They may be worn in a similar way to the shirt described above, ai d The the fulness arranged above the skirt at the waist. bodice,

doi and dash line across the front and hack illustrate

^I^^^a.

.

;

-•^j^z&r^--

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

when

the plan adopted

desired.

lines,

R

is

f inch

bottom These are often worn with blouses, sometimes sepa-

sometimes fastened to them

rate,

They lows

—Take a forepart and back

of the size breast de-

and place the shoulder seams together, mark down the back seam for the centre of the collar, and then round the back neck and down the front as low sired,

as desired

the length and width being quite a matter

;

we can only refer our readers to the diagram which is but an example to be varied from

of taste,

as a guide, as desired.

Diagram

;

Illustrates

Draw

Dias. 96 to 99.

Fig. 57.

This garment has become very popular during the used for

is

under short-kilted

exercises,

many kinds

skirts,

of athletic

wear

:

the

arrange these details, so at once

proceed to describe

through from

Draw

AE

AX; A to C

line

one-fourth breast

inch

H

;

J one-fourth

A

desired.

leg

fourth

breast

to

E

;

B to

to

-1

i\

fourth seat parallel to

half ]\i

J K,

and

J.

:

:

J

one-eighth natural waist natural waist plus i an

inch

;

J

one-sixth neck

;

C

seat plus

F

E

;

to

length of

to

D

one-

than one-fourth

less

G

X

one-fourth breast

H to I one-fourth breast J to K oneK P drawn at right angles to J K, or ;

X P ;

to

Take

a fish out

M

width of leg desired J L is midway between ;

or one-eighth seat

;

of forepart

close at waist, as per dotted line.

down

1

inch

1

breast to find front of scye

plus

is

AH

;

Plate 41.

96.

If

to

make

it

fit

intended to fasten

the front, add on a button stand of about 1 inch,

and the forepart

is

complete.

H

to

3 inches.

is

more), and

X

P

W

to

;

draw sideseam straight draw line H I across to W,

and so get the length of side place the square on the seam YUV, and square across to W. The uuder;

seat

may

be cut

in one with the top, by merely

all

letting the undersides overlap

Diagram Is the sleeve.

1

to

2

h inch at

P and X.

99, Plate 41.

is

2 inches, 2 to 3 is the length

of forearm desired, 4 to 5 is the same, 2 scye, arid 3 to 5 is the

to 4 is half

width of sleeve desired.

These combinations are frequently cut low at the neck, but our readers will readily be able to do this, as it only needs cutting as much as is desired from of back,

EB

and C

B

of forepart.

Ladies' Drawers. The system

as

here

Knickers or Drawers

;

laid

down can be used

cutting the topsides, as

trated by dotted line from

Q

to

arranging the square one arm on resting on

Diagram

98, Plate 41,

M

very easy allow

I.

made without

The System.

over-

underpart of the lower portion, the

from

so that

garments would be complete without it. They are made in so many different ways and from so many different materials, that we shall have to ladies'

leave our readers to

undersides

addition

whilst in

to this they are largely used for ordinary

no work on

the

through U, measure up seat, and generally allow 3 inches beyond seat measure (if desired line

size of

past few years, and

of

dotted lines illustrate the forepart,

sides

shown on Diagram 91, or an ordinary sleeve, are suitable to be worn with the blouse, but whichever style is adopted, looseness must be a marked feature, otherwise it will not be in harmony with the body part for that reason, perhaps, Diagram 91 style of sleeve would be the most suitable. Either the sleeve

Combinations.

to fasten at the

lapping.

effect.

are very simple to cut, the system being as fol:

to

extra inch should be left at

allow

to

them

to arrange

when an

back,

of

A

;

being generally

;

add much to the

of a contrasting colour, they

customary

It is

inch

the other points are as for the fore-

all

;

waist behind,

95.

as per dotted 1

;

part.

Diagram

Collar.

Plate 41.

97.

Take the cut-out forepart and place from H to T is 1 inch F to S is

of

both back and front, according to the degree of fulness

The Sailor

Diagram

which case about 2

line, in

must be added on beyond the outline

or 3 inches

The Back.

a yoke is desired, the lower part

being often fulled on this

size

H

L and

is

got by

the other

These garments are almost invariably sideseams, which can be arranged as

before described for combinations.

duced to

which

I,

for

illus-

when putting them

The

waist

is

into a waistband.

re-

__.

Jackets, and Ulsters,

Section Ten. Plate 42.

Collars.

The

collar

garment, that

all

have this

The Shakespeare

Collar.

style of finish at the

neck occasionally.

forms such an important part of every it would on no account do to omit it

from any work that aimed at completeness and as we anticipate this volume going into the hands of many and if novices, we shall treat of them rather fully ;

Diagram

Is really only a variety of the Panteen, the

much narrower

being cut

in place of that illustrated

half

fall

behind, and with a long

It is mostly used

point in the front.

102.

on Blouses, &c.,

on Diagram 92.

;

perchance

Ave

go into the smaller

more experienced, we crave

the

much

for

their indulgence

on

too

details

The Medici This

behalf of the novices.

others

Stand

Diagram

Collar.

and, as our readers are well aware,

;

time we write, the most popular finish for

100.

the simplest form of collar possible to put on

is

any garment,

A

12.

on Figs. 23 and 24, Plate

illustrated

it is

examination of the neck

little

show

will

it

must

be longer round the sewing on edge than at the top, this is provided for by cutting a round sewing on edge ;

and

it

may

be as well to state that the rounder the

sewing to edge the shorter consequently tbese to 1

F

is

fit

as follows

:

The system

— Draw

inch as a standard (more is

Draw curve from to 2 *

drawn

is

TV 2

to taste.

also to taste

may

fancy

good

D

desired).

;

V

is

to D,

if

;

make TV

come up from F

a very close

to

V

round the

fit

midway between F and W. and continue on

V

W.

to

V

D, the height also right angles to TV D, the height

at right angles to is at

W 2 may be cut

on the crease or not, as In making, it is interlined with a

dictate.

buckram, and in putting

stiff

for producing

W D F, and

line

the half size of the neck

top edge

be on the top, and

will

it

the closer.

this in it should be

put in rather shorter than the outside, as the position

it

occupies on the wearer being a decided circle, renders it

"We will

imperative for the outside to be the longer.

not describe the putting on of this

collar, as it is

done

same way as is described below, when dealing Diagram 110, so we pass on to deal of

in the

The Panteen

Collar.

Diagram

is

on Fig.

illustrated

21),

;

or long top edge

it

indeed, just such an effect as would

:

be produced by taking an ordinary stand collar and

The excessive size on worn much deeper than it could be in any other way, and consequently this commends it to those who are exposed to inclement inserting Y's

along the top.

all

the top edge allows

weather

indeed

;

The system

to be

it

has been called the storm collar.

it

for producing this is as follows

at right angles,

TV

H H inches, D to F half F

Y

to

Draw

3 inches.

making, the stand other

is

sewn to

its

collar

is

put on

top edge by

its

;

the outside

being arranged to come about h inch over the top lining of the stand collar neatly felled

popular

collar,

coming over the top

ordinary way

in the

and has

a

on almost

all

This

:

the

of this

is

a

is

very

much smarter appearance than

the plain stand collar, which "orn

In

and then the

first,

lining

it

resembles so much.

garments

:

—W

1

)

F

W to

neck measure minus f inch, with a gradual curve, and

V

;

and

may

as these

be

finished square, pointed, or curved, there is consider-

The

able scope for the designer.

down, ness

if more fulround the top, increase the quantities and TV to 1^. In making, it is of course

F

Y

to

interlined with

buckram

show, the lining

is

and neatly

and, as the inside of these

;

some bright

generally of silk or

material, but whatever

nicely

;

desired

is

from

system, as here laid

produce a good average style

Avill

This

W D F.

I)

outline the top part to taste

101.

the same as described above, with a second collar cut deeper, as illustrated by dotted line below

:

the height of collar desired.

I)

used in this way

is

should be

it

finished.

Diagram

Prussian Collar.

cut exactly

is

a

full

of

and may be best de-

scribed as a double stand collar, as

garments

hollow sewing to edge, and consequently a very

not so

is

much worn now

but in order to describe

This

at the

it is,

all

It is really a stand collar cut with

at the neck.

This

103.

on Figs. 13, 41, 42, 43, and

illlustrated

is

Diagram

Collar.

It

Blouses, Bodices,

The system

a place.

D

as

is

as

follows

was

it

kinds of

all

:

104. one time,

at

collars,

we give

—W

half neck,

D

it

F, 1 inch, draw curve of sewing on edge from TV to

V

F, TV to

from

V

to

and I, is

F

to i

the

is

fall.

the stand, below which, as

In making, the sewing to

edge must be well stretched in the hollow. this

much

deep in the stand at front, and

though

it is

when

quently

is

ladies are

is

cut

all

in

is

fall

not so

one piece,

nothing unusual to find the under

arranged with the stand and cially

In style

resembles the Panteen Collar, but

cut separate.

u,

'Jar

Espe-

made of very thick material, as it freBox Coats and Driving Capes, such as

it is

for

now wearing

for driving, &c.

&

^r^ter^r THE CUTTERS

Diagram

Stand and Fall Collar.

PRACTICAL GUIDE

cloth

105.

very thick, in such cases a thin Melton of as

is

nearly the same colour as possible

This Figures

Figure I).

B.

and 20 are

1!)

This collar

garment

the

you wish

B

from

desired

C

to

difficult

a very important one,

it is

about

all

and

in detail,

it

Diagram 105

to turn, as at A,

it

and Figure 20 the

Begin by taking the forepart intended to go on, decide where

is

it

as any.

perhaps the most

is

but as

;

begin with the system. of

good specimens

as

endeavour to describe

will

Figures, perhaps

of the

illustrates the S. B. turn,

1!)

style.

of all to the novice

we

on many

illustrated

is

a trifle less than

mark up

;

the depth of stand

having previously decided that the depth of

:

upcome on the neck above the

the stand or the

collar

seam should he 1| inches, and the fall If inches the fall is that part which turns over from the crease. Both these quantities are fair average quantities. For :

B

such a collar come up from

C

to

1 inch,

tage being that

up

;

A through C to D. Get the length of the by measuring from G to F the width of the back neck, as from 1 to 2 of Diagram 110, allowing about Now come down

viz.,

The

^ an inch.

from

relative length

object of this

used for the garment

—

H

this

D

to

E

fall

If

to give

is

the

to I as

Draw

is

from

;

E

fall

gets deeper, a

line

from

E

to

C

F measure down

to

the depth of stand desired, in this case 1^ inches, and

connect

F

B, and continue on to J, leuting the

to

J about £ inch. E to H is the fall and as this is to the same in front a large extent a matter of taste, no more definite rules than we have laid down can be given. "With regard to collar overlap at

behind, and J to

I

back of collar from

want

trate, as a

;

F E

to

H,

it

maybe

of proper attention

as well to illus-

at that

;

order to get

it

on the

easily manipulated.

If

wool to the materia],

it

Now

Diagram 106.

how

this should

Diagram

F

Shows how

F

to

E

is

it

will

have sufficient spring

This completes the cutting as far as the

to go over F.

system

E

concerned, and what we

now

give

it

should be put in

is

We

will

cut out in

should be

the

fit

more

different material

to

This

the is

collar that produces

sometimes made from

the garment, especially

working

for

always be cut in two halves, otherwise

running other

an

in

when cut

it

when the

it

is

out

should

It

in.

impossible

the one end having the threads

;

altogether

different

direction

to

the

whole, and consequently the effects are

when made up. If cut as illustrated on Diagram 107, the straight thread will run from 1 to 2. Join it by letting the two ends slightly overlap each other, and we next baste the collar lining and seen in the collar

canvas together.

The

the collar should

fall of

lie

flat

on the canvas, and then a row of basting put along the crease row, and then the stand part of the canvas being can be easily stretched to

bias,

1

The

collar

first

the stand of

to stitch along the crease as

is

Diagram And

fit

step in the stitching and

to 2.

108, Plate 42, hand should be pulled

in doing this the

tight, so as to

draw

head forward requires

fairly

that part in accordance with

in

your customer's requirements

;

drawn

it

_

stooping figure with

in

more than the nor-

mal, whilst the erect or head backward type require

The

stitching of the stand comes next,

make

and the

that part of the collar firm

this is usually done about four stiff, to stand up rows to the inch, and may be either done by hand or

and

assume the pattern of the collar has been paper, and we now proceed to cut out the style.

The canvas should

of

practical explanation.

and

left

to get both ends alike

object of this is to

inside collar, as that is really all

the cross marks repre-

:

use of the iron before cutting, and in cutting

less.

A

it,

be shrunk by being well wetted and dried without the

Place the

G, when

should form a continuation of the back seam, and above this it should be sprung out, so that when it is turned over at the crease row

stand

107, Plate 42,

senting the threads of the canvas.

from

be arranged. at

or, if the material will

this done, the next step is to arrange the

;

collar canvas.

on the

106, Plate 42,

on the back neck, as shown

join the collar at the back, either

by taking a small seam

by stoating

very

is

and consequently is more there is any face or way of the should run from H E to F,

or shrunk,

stretched

easily

bias, as the joins are out of sight.

understood that cloth on the bias

It is well

padding of a

Illustrates

In

on

it

;

the collar lining.

collar

very thick and unyielding.

is

part fre-

quently results in a collar standing away behind.

Diagram

worked

and on no account cut it from the lengthways of the material it is far preferable to join it in

the bias

more

the crease edge on the part

where the collar folds over

easily

cutting the inside collar from the material, cut

sufficient

very necessary arrangement. slightly curved

from

1^ and the

the difference between the stand

used, the advan-

and draw a

collar

h inch extra length.

is

and more

thinner,

is

but we do not advise this except when the cloth

from

line

it

machine.

;

If

by hand,

it

should be a short fore stitch,

would represent the appearFor the fall ance of Diagram 108, as from 1, 2, 3. padding of object the padding stitch is required so that the collar lining

-^jgi^gyPi^c--

:

— "%^|^wGARMENTS.

TO CUTTING LADIES

fall is

to get

it

to curl in well,

which

produced

effect is

by curling the canvas over the finger, and so getting But as most of our it on longer than the collar lining. readers will understand all this, we will not describe it in further detail, but pass on to

Gape Diagrams These are

Collars.

111, 112

and

on the garment, and are cut by

collars laid

the shoulder seams of back and forepart, being placed

when the

together as per dotted lines,

Diagram

109, Plate 42,

The

illustrates the pressing process.

pressing

mould the

to

is

as well as to press the

This

the collar.

is

object of

collar into the required shape,

;

3

is

outline of the

the bottom termination

and the sewing to point is marked from 1 by 2 to a seam is left as illustrated by dot and is made up independently of the garment, and then sewn in the position desired from the back, and turned over, with the result of the shaded it,

beyond which dash line this 3,

;

sewing that has been put into

best accomplished

by the aid

thoroughly hot iron, and the collar pressed until

The shape when

quite dry.

marked

lapel desired is

of

Which

Plate 42.

113.

this operation

of a it

is

finished

is

part of

and

Diagram 111

111.

the S. B. style of turn,

is

often used for ladies' bodices,

is

when

the part

should be somewhat after the outline of Diagram 109,

outlined by 3. 4, 5 would have the appearance of a

the stand being represented as turned over

\ est.

effect of the

padding

of the

Now

fall.

will

now be

:

whilst the

seen by the curling

smooth over the outside

Our Diagram

on the

collar

double, as cloth always shrinks more on the double

By smoothing we do

than the single. it,

but merely smooth

the stand portion to be slightly

it

ends harmonise with

breaks at the right point.

Having corrected the collar in any detail that is necessary, we proceed to cover it. Let us suppose the edges of our garment is to be bound. Lay the fall of the outside collar quite flat on the sleeve board, and on this place the fall of the collar lining, and put a basting thread along the crease row, and then the

fall

is

basted from

the outside, the collar being slightly bent to allow of

the outside being a collar over

and put

trifle

in a

the longer, then turn the

row

of stitching

about § of an

inch from the crease, this keeps the stand in

The

collar is then

this latter process

bound and sewn we give

on.

To

Diagram

its

place-

illustrate

may

1

to i

it

should go

fair,

or of

should be fulled on about ^ an inch, and from 3 to 4

beyond that

it

fair or plain.

would more

used for

likely be

space between the top of the lapel to the collar end.

The be,

facing

silk

carrie

brought to the ends of the holes, and

is

over where the drawing seam of the collar would

1

or even

higher

;

the aim should be to give the

collar the appearance of

way round

being the same width

The

as far as possible.

this is a bright satin faced fine

twill

all

the

mostly used for

silk ;

and when used

on some of the dull or rough materials now so popular. has a very stylish appearance.

diagram

may

it

Before quitting this

be as well to state that the holes in the

turn should run with the top of the lapel, and in like the silk should follow the outline of the side of

Great care should be exercised in putting on

ornament only, the

this silk, as being used for

the two very slightly tight, from 2 to 3 the collars

commence by putting

it

There should only be the smallest possible

Jackets.

would be Across the back from

facing.

silk

be produced as a Cape collar, as previously

described, though

manner

Plate 42.

110.

D. B. style of lapel with

Illustrates the

This

the lapel.

Diagram

112, Plate 42,

stretch

it is

collar to the neck, to see the collar

the turn, as well as to see that

mean

no detriment for Next fit the stretched.

though

it,

not

represents this lapel of velvet, from

which material these are often made.

spoilt if

it

was not put on

effect

Even-

artistically.

possible effort should be used to get both sides alike

which

a result

may

not so easy to achieve as

is

appear

at first sight.

on tight up to the break, and Now press open the seam, and

Diagram

113, Plate 42,

serge the neck, and in front of the break of the collar

Illustrates a roll collar laid

canvas and the forepart canvas should be drawn to-

previously described, with the exception of the outline

gether edge to edge over the collar seam.

of the roll,

remains

now

to turn in the collar

the collar seam sible,

;

It

only

and facing, and draw

the turn in should be as small as pos-

and exactly on the top

by

of the collar seam, as

gives a much cleaner and flat appearance The only remaining touch is the pressing and our collar is complete. We will now pass on

these

means

it

Jackets,

this is cut

kind are frequently

this

In cutting fur

and the

pile

it

to

exactly as

taste.

a

very stylish

should be done with a

or nap arranged to run the wrong

to the front.

way, which remark also applies to velvet, as

off,

presents a

to deal with

lars,

.

f4i*ZZ^&fi> :

much

the velvet

is

Fur

Winter

put on

and undoubtedly give them

appearance. knife,

;

which must of course be run

of

collars

on

richer appearance.

always cut on the

it

then

In ordinary colbias, as that is

G

the

.

Diagonal creases below waist,

only way by which anything like a satisfactory result

can be obtained, but with these cape wider sweep of material as very little

required than ordinarily, and

is

working up

rather

collars, a

needed,

is

not of so

it is

much

importance.

As from K to L, are produced by too much being added on the one side below the waist, and not enough on the the remedy other, so producing a drag from K to L ;

This we think exhausts the subject of

and if we have gone into detail rather too minutely for some of our more advanced readers, we can only plead the importance of the subject, and the general ignorance collars,

from 14

to let oat

is

to

15,

and

the hips to their original size

;

necessaiy to reduce

if

take in from

K

down-

wards.

Plate 43,

Dia. 114.

Creases at waist.

that prevails on this topic.

As

and

at I, J

(i

H

have two principal causes.

Linings put in too short.

2.

Too

All linings should

In either case remedy accordingly.

Section Eleven.

be put in very long over the waist

Defects and Remedies.

on making up in previous sections. over the hips the remedy will be to

and 12

to 11,

Although

re illy outside

this is

the scope originally

intended for this work, yet we have

Let us take

prove of service.

doubt a few.

little

met with,

hints on the various defects generally

the defects that

first

An

Diagram

Diagram As

Plate 43.

114.

at L,

M,

is

our readers

Too long

shoulder produces a fold or series

a front

medy a

A

is

shown by dot and dash

back balance produces folds

E

from

of folds all across the front, as

line 7, 8

all

2 3.

1

:

the re-

Too long

1).

across back, as from

Remedy

showing more especially at B.

to B,

dotted line

H

to

as per

pages

horizontal folds.

its fitting close at

dragged down

:

whilst,

if

it

waist,

115.

was worn unbuttoned,

have gathered from the preceding

this defect exists in a

If

In cutting a fresh garment, the remedy

The

Diagram

easiest

116.

scye,

producing extra

too short front shoulder

produces tightness of scye, fulness at top of sideseam, creases

down

on shoulder,

front sin wider, let it

down

;

if

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