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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Flounder Crochet Pattern

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka @chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot! 1

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

A message for you! Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram account @chiacrafts! In the very beginning, crochet was something I used to do just for my own sake: it was nothing more than a Sunday hobby, to keep my mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies... Never would I have imagined achieving such success! I then started sharing instructions to reproduce my amigurumis, mainly as a way of thanking all my followers for their enthusiasm (and because of the large amount of requests!) :) However, writing a pattern doesn’t come without its own challenges and quite an effort: while the design time remains unvaried, physically writing it down in digital format, remaking the pieces to make sure they’re correct, and preparing all comments and pictures, takes about more than a third of the time I spend on a project. I’m an independent artist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my Ravelry shop. People who bought this pattern thinking of redistributing it on their own, making money out of unauthorized translations or who simply downloaded it for free, should know that there’s a real person behind this profile they are damaging with their actions. If you’re not sure whether you’re reading a legal copy, have a look at what’s written in the next section. I feel like I’m whining a lot about people not respecting my work and not focusing enough on you, all the amazing people who indeed purchased this pattern :D Just let me thank you once again for your love and support. You’re all a source of great motivation for me!

Cheers, Chiara

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Licence Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and personal effort :) Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind! This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this document). If you’ve found it in any other location, you’re reading a stolen copy, and you shouldn’t use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn. DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also prohibited. DO NOT reuse my pictures. This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and #chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your work anyway :D Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on this activity. Thank you for listening :) For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I always answer :)

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Read Me!

Abbreviations

This is a pattern full of tiny details, it requires a lot of patience! Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they are so small it’s quite fast :) Remember that all instructions are essential to the success of the result. A good practice is to read the entire document before starting: knowing what to expect will help you be more focused. It’s a bit boring but worth it :)

US standard abbreviations + something I’ve made up ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Indications ★ Work through the entire stitch, not FLO or BLO (unless specified otherwise) ★ At the beginning of each row of sc, you usually work a turning chain. It’s not indicated in the pattern but visible in the diagrams ★ After a chain, always work from second loop from hook (if not indicated otherwise) ★ If you’re left-handed, everything is specular for you! ★ Work in continuous rounds ★ I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the round. Someone puts it on the first. Know that, in my patterns, it marks the end of the round

★ ★

★ ★

Color change

★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Always perform the color change on the second half of the stitch. Example: ● Color change on a sc: insert the hook, YO, pull through, pick the new color, YO, pull through both loops on your hook. The color change is to be done on the previous stitch! If the pattern says to change color between Rx and Ry, then you must go to the last st of Rx and change color on the second step of the stitch :)

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R = Round (continuous or joined) Row = row MR = Magic Ring YO = Yarn Over YU = Yarn Under st = stitch sc = single crochet inc = sc increase (invisible) dec = sc decrease (invisible) dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet ch = chain sl = slip stitch tr = treble crochet BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the inner loop when working in rounds) FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the outer loop when working in rounds) Ldec = Line decrease, decrease at the beginning of a row. Don’t make any turning chain, turn you work directly and start working in the 2nd st of the row. [ ] = means that the stitches are to be done in the same loop or stitch CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from the stitch IJ = Invisible Join FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ) stsc = standing sc (S in diagrams) tch = turning chain rc = rising chain

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Note on the yarn

Materials ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

YarnArt Jeans is a yarn made to be worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in 1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size smaller than indicated to better work the body tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from which the stuffing would be visible or fall through. You should get a good result with this pattern as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly. Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy result: maximum 1 size bigger!

2.0 mm hook Tapestry needle 6mm black safety eyes Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) Yarn all in the same size of the following colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans: ○ Yellow (35): body ○ Light Turquoise (33): fins ○ Turquoise (55): fins ○ Tiny scraps of white(01) for the eye embroidery

Dimensions

Note on the eyes

Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most importantly, working tight!!!), the dimensions of the finished doll are 6x4x3.5 cm.

The right size for the safety eyes depends on the doll’s dimensions! Don’t purchase 6mm eyes if you’re not sure the dimensions of your doll will be similar to mine. My advice is to get a box with many different sizes, and use the one which better suits your ami!

REGULAR AND TIGHT STITCHES!

This pattern is for expert crocheters. It is very small and extremely intricate: each stitch has a particular function and must, therefore, fall in the right position. For this to happen, you must work regular stitches, paying attention to tighten well both increases and decreases. Irregularities in the way you work will result in the beginning of the round to fall in a wrong position, thus deforming your work! To help you work even tighter, you could consider using a 1.75 hook rather than a 2.0 one :)

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Body We’re starting from the face. We’re going to work a piece for the face and then we’ll work around it in rounds to create the body and proceed towards the caudal fin. Hook: 2.0 Work tight Start with yellow R1: ch 9(8) R2: working around the chain: inc, 6 sc, [3 sc], 7 sc, end with 1 sl in the first sc of the 1st inc (19) Both the sl and the 1st sc of R2 count as stitches of the round, see also the diagram below

Keeping the right side of the fabric facing you, count 7 stitches back from the IJ, and join the yarn on the 7th with a stsc (it’s the 1st st of Row1). Row1-5 must be centered, adjust where to join the yarn otherwise.

R3: ch 1, 1 sc in the same st where you made the sl, inc, 6 sc, inc, sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, IJ in the 1st sc done (23) The IJ counts as a st of the round, see the diagram below. Pay attention not to make the IJ in the raising chain instead: verify to have 23 effective stitches once completed R3, it is very important!

Now proceed working Row1 (you already made the stsc). When working in rows, you always make a turning chain before turning your work. I don’t mention it explicitly in the pattern, but it’s reported in the diagrams: Row1: 1 stsc, 4 sc, turn (5) Row2-Row4: 5 sc, turn (5) Remember that, to make an Ldec, you DON'T work a turning chain, you turn your work directly, and you make a sc in the 2nd st of the row, thus decreasing. Row5: Ldec, 1 hdc, dec, DO NOT turn (3) DO NOT cut the yarn.

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs 1 sc in the same st where you did the last st of Row1

18 sc around the base

1 sc in the same st where you made the stsc From the end of Row5, keep working around the perimeter of the piece you’ve just created (you find step by step instructions here below and a diagram at the very end).

4 sc on the other side. In total, counting the 3 sts of Row5, the perimeter is formed by: 3+4+1+18+1+4=31 sts. Work 4 sc on the side

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs time and patience, but the result is much better than what you’d obtain by dragging the tails around inside the work, as you don’t risk pulling and deforming it. Also, remember that different color change techniques bring different results: if you decide to use another technique (for example, tapestry crochet), the outline of the color change won’t have the same shape as mine! R4: 9 sc, change to yellow, 16 sc, change to turquoise, 5 sc (30)

Now proceed working in rounds around the piece you’ve just created

R5: 7 sc, 1 dec, change to yellow, 16 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (28) Pause to work on eyes and nose. To prepare the nose, work 8 sc in a MR and end with 1 sl in the 1st sc, CY-PO.

R1-R2: 31 sc (31) R3: 1 sc, 1 dec, 23 sc, change to turquoise, 5 sc (30) Here’s the result so far:

To sew the nose to the face, insert the starting tail in the middle of the initial chain (R1 of the very first piece)

Don’t forget that the color change has to be done on the second step of the previous stitch. Therefore, on the 23rd sc or R3 you should YO with turquoise on the second step. Note: I recommend cutting the yarn each time you change color, and secure the cut extremity to the new color one with a small knot. It takes a bit of

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs And use the end tail to seam through the stitches in the MR. Then pass the tail inside the body and tie it to the starting tail to secure it.

Then place the eye inside, gently pull the white thread to make it adhere tangent to the eye, and secure the eye with the washer (you can pull the white thread a bit afterwards, to adjust it).

The eyes must be positioned as in the following picture. It’s difficult to give you exact coordinates as the stitches are quite confused there. Let’s say they should be positioned below Row1 of the forehead (the second piece we worked on, attached to the first one) and be quite symmetrical with respect to the nose. I suggest you wing the position looking at the picture.

Proceed working on the body R6: 8 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, change to turquoise, 4 sc (26) R7: 8 sc, change to yellow, 18 sc (26) R8: 6 sc, dec, 14 sc, change to turquoise, dec, 2 sc (24) R9: (2 sc, dec) x 2, change to yellow, (2 sc, dec) x 4 (18) Pause to work on the lateral fins. Using the light turquoise yarn work a ch 8, CY-PO leaving a long extremity at the beginning and a very long extremity at the end (50 cm). Join the turquoise (the darkest) yarn by pulling out a loop in the 7th loop of the chain, and work: 1 hdc, 3 sc, 2 sl, CY-PO

Once selected the position, widen the hole for the eyes and pull out a white loop from it

Then, using the light turquoise tail left, work a row of BLO sl upon.

Unfortunately, the two different turquoise used don’t show very much in the pictures, but if you

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs follow the instructions you’ll see the difference well! Here’s the fin

Do the same on both sides.

Start stuffing the body. Keep working on the body, from now on in Yellow color only. R10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12) R11: 1 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc (10) Then work 2 additional sc, or as many as you need to reach the st just before its longitudinal section:

Fasten off the starting dark turquoise tail by passing it below the other stitches

To sew the fins, simply insert the yarn tails left inside the body 3 sts below the first turquoise stripe, and secure them making small knots inside the body.

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs Finish stuffing Change color to turquoise.

Caudal fin

Work 1 sc in turquoise, which will fall right on the longitudinal section

Hook: 2.0 Work tight Without cutting the yarn, keep on working the Caudal fin in turquoise. (You find a diagram at the very end). Make a turning chain, turn and make a sc in the 1st st of the closure. ch 5

Working with turquoise yarn, close the work with 5 sc. The first sc must be worked across the next st and the turquoise one. Then proceed stitching together with sc opposite couples of stitches. (A) Starting from 3rd loop from hook, work: 1 hdc, 2 sc

Here’s the result:

Then make 1 sc in the next st available of the closure

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs You must change color to light turquoise on the second step of this sc. The color changes don’t show off well in my pictures, so my tester @like.o_handmade kindly allowed me to use one of hers. You find it at the very end. Here’s the color change:

Secure the thread with a small knot and fasten off all tails left by passing them inside the body, then trim

I liked the mixed-color effect and it’s easier to change color this way, but of course you could also change color 1 st before to obtain a more defined striped effect!

Make a turning chain turn, and work in the first strand you created: 3 sc, ch 2 then repeat the instructions from point (A). This time, when making the sc in the next st of the closure, change to dark turquoise instead of to light turquoise. Repeat one more time and end with a sl st in the first stitch of the closure.

Here’s the diagram:

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs This creates the first strand

Dorsal fin Hook: 2.0 Work tight Start with turquoise yarn (You find a diagram at the very end). Insert your hook on the longitudinal section, 3 rounds below the first turquoise stripe.

From where you left off, work ch 6, 5 sc starting from second loop from hook The 2nd stripe is done NOTE: sc NOT sl!

Pull out a loop

Then make a sl 2 rounds above (in correspondence of the color change line from yellow and turquoise) picking up the light turquoise, thus changing color. ch 6, 5 sl starting from second loop from hook NOTE: sl, NOT sc! Then make a sl 1 round above

Turn your work without making any tch,

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs skip the sl and work 4 sc BLO make a tch, turn and work 4 sc back to the base. The 3rd stripe is done.

Then pass the tails inside the body to hide them and trim them.

Make 1 sl 2 rounds above, this time changing to turquoise. Turn your work without making any tch, skip the sl and work 3 sc BLO make a tch, turn and work 3 sc back to the base. The 4th stripe is done. Make 1 sl 2 rounds above, this time changing to light turquoise. Turn your work without making any tch, skip the sl and work 2 sc BLO make a tch, turn and work 2 sc back to the base. The 5th stripe is done. Without changing color, make 1 further sl 2 rounds above.

Here’s the diagram:

Bring all the tails left to the point where you executed the last sl. Secure them with some small knots.

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Congratulations! Your Flounder is ready! Don’t forget to send me a picture or tag me if you post on instagram (more info in the licence page!) Are you going to crochet more characters from the little mermaid? :D

Here you can better see the stripes:

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