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Caramel Corentin Poirier-Martinet

Caramel In this newsletter we are focusing on a certain ingredient that we find in pastries and confectioneries: caramel. Working alongside Arnau Arboix, the young and talented pastry chef Corentin Poirier-Martinet takes a closer look at the chemical reaction that creates caramel and shares a a series of 4 personal recipes: ·

The classic chocolate Réligieuse with its play on textures

·

A passion fruit and banana tube dessert made with Zéphyr™ Caramel

·

A chocolate tartlet with Zéphyr™ Caramel chips

·

A new take on vanilla crème brûlée with Lactée Caramel

A little background… From an etymological point of view, this word comes from the Spanish “caramel(o)”, itself borrowed from the Portuguese caramelo. It is most likely that the term stems directly from the Latin calamus meaning reed because of the “analogy between the shape of hardened sugar or an icicle and that of a reed”. Historically, caramel is mentioned for the first time 65 years BCE. Texts by Seneca prove that this confectionery was eaten by the Romans. But it was not until 1838 that French chemist Eugène Péligot decided to focus on the acidity of caramel itself. A few years later, it was Charles Gerhardt, a scientist from Strasbourg, who studied the chemical reaction that creates caramel. This ingredient was the subject of a great deal of research and has still not revealed all its secrets!

Caramel

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Corentin Poirier-Martinet Cacao Barry® Chef

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Caramelisation, a complex process Caramelisation is the reaction of sugar and water to heat. We all

The fructose and glucose molecules then decompose as the

Below is a table with different sugar cooking

regularly use saccharose in our recipes. This ingredient is a sugar

temperature increases. The new components degrade and

temperatures:

made from beet or sugar cane and contains carbon (C), hydrogen

recombine as new components, which will then combine together,

(H) and oxygen (O).

etc. This reorganisation of molecules continues throughout the

This molecule is in the group that includes carbohydrates, known

cooking process and creates palatable molecules and others that

as disaccharides. The chemical formula of saccharose is the

provide the caramel colour.

following: C12H22O11. Raphaël Haumont, physics and chemistry professor and When heated (to around 180°C), the saccharose molecule

researcher at the Université de Paris Sud – Paris Saclay and co-

hydrolyses (= divides in half) and breaks down into two

founder of the Centre Français d’Innovation Culinaire (CFIC),

monosaccharides: one molecule of glucose and one of fructose.

explains in his book Les papilles du chimiste (Ed. Dunod) that

These two reducer sugars have the same molecular formula

caramelisation is a “very complex process that involves multiple

(C6H12O6) but their atoms are arranged differently.

degradations (breaking chemical bonds, condensations, creating bonds with water) and structural molecular reorganisations”.

The first stage of caramelisation can be translated as follows:

Temperatures

Result

100 - 103 ° C

For sugar syrup

104 - 110 ° C

For sugar thread

105 - 115 ° C

For soft balls

116 - 135 ° C

For harder balls

136 - 150 ° C

For hard crack

151 - 165 ° C

For pale caramel

166 – 180 ° C

For dark caramel

Be careful, however, not to confuse caramelisation with the Maillard reaction (even though the two share the synthesis of aromas and brown pigments). The Maillard reaction occurs when C12H22O11 + H2O Saccharose + water

C6H12O6 + C6H12O6

we heat sugar and proteins. That’s what normally occurs when

glucose + fructose

we want to make a brown sauce by frying meat in a mixture of clarified butter and oil. Caramelisation of course occurs when we heat sugar with protein but also when we heat sugar by itself!

Caramel

Cacao Barry®

Corentin Poirier-Martinet Cacao Barry® Chef

5

1. Chocolate caramel Religieuse

Chocolate caramel Religieuse 8 units Where did the idea for this dessert come from? For the Religieuse, the idea of using caramel to sweeten the whole recipe inspired me. It is a great contrast with the Grand Caraque cream. Choux pastry 76 g Water 76 g Milk 76 g Butter 4g Salt 4g Sugar 92 g Flour 172 g Eggs Bring the water, milk and butter to the boil with the salt and sugar. Pour in the flour, combine well then cook out. Add the eggs in 4 goes. Pipe out the 3 choux bun sizes.

Cocoa glaze 68 g Water 188 g Sugar 65 g Extra Brute cocoa powder 130 g Cream 51 g Gelatine Heat the sugar and water to 108°C and add the cocoa powder. Boil the cream and add it to the syrup. Blend to the consistency of the fondant used to glaze éclairs. Assembly: Fill the choux buns with the cream and caramel. Put them in the freezer for a few minutes before glazing. Once glazed, put them back in the freezer for a few minutes. Heat the glaze for a few seconds with the blowtorch to make it very shiny. Stack the choux buns with a decoration in between each layer.

Cocoa crumble 50 g Butter 50 g Flour 13 g Extra Brute cocoa powder 62 g Golden caster sugar Combine all the ingredients to make the dough. Use the roller to spread between two sheets to 1mm. Cut out and place on the choux buns. Bake at 170°C. Grand Caraque cream 156 g Milk 156 g Cream 16 g Sugar 38 g Egg yolks 115 g Grand Caraque cocoa mass Make a crème anglaise at 82°C. Pour in the cocoa mass and blend well. Chill quickly then refrigerate. Chocolate caramel 58 g Glucose 1 53 g Sugar 140 g Cream 28 g Glucose 2 2g Fleur de sel 50 g Milk 1 50 g Extra Bitter Guayaquil 64% dark couverture chocolate 80 g Milk 2 40 g Butter   Make a dry caramel with the glucose 1 and the sugar. Heat to 185°C. Cool with the cream, glucose 2, milk 1 and fleur de sel boiled together. Reheat to 104°C. Finally add the remaining ingredients in order, blending well. Caramel

Cacao Barry®

Corentin Poirier-Martinet Cacao Barry® Chef

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2. Zéphyr™Caramel tube Entremets

Zéphyr™ Caramel tube Entremets 8 units Where did the idea for this dessert come from? For this dessert, the idea is to cook the fruit in the caramel. The fruit then becomes the envelope containing the caramel flavours. Roast pineapple 300 g Fresh pineapple 0.25 Vanilla pod 0.5 g Lime zest 140 g Sugar 71 g Mango purée 71 g Banana purée 38 g Passion fruit purée 188 g Water Cut the pineapple into 1 x 1 cm cubes. Make a dry caramel and heat to 175°C. Add the lime zest and the vanilla and cool with the boiling liquids. Combine the syrup obtained with the pineapple. Turn out into a tray and bake at 180°C until the pinea-pple is nicely roasted (around 15 minutes for this quantity). Drain the pineapple. Arrange in a frame at a height of 1cm. Freeze. Tropical milk chocolate cream 45 g Sugar 8 g Glucose 20 g Butter 23 g Milk 90 g Cream 0.5 g Lime zest 15 g Passion fruit purée 15 g Banana purée 7g Gelatine 112 g Lactée Supérieure 38% milk couverture chocolate Make a dry caramel with the glucose and the sugar. Cool with the butter and the milk. Add the cream and lime zest that you have infused for 15 minutes, then add the fruit purées. Pass the hot mixture through a chinois onto the chocolate and gelatine. Blend and pour into the frame on top of the roast pineapple to a height of 0.5 cm. Freeze. Biscuit  160 g 40 g 85 g 20 g 160 g 85 g

Caramel

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Beat together the egg yolks and the sugar 1. Whisk the egg whites and the sugar 2. Combine the two mixtures, add the sifted cornstarch then the butter and milk that you have heated to 40°C. Weigh 550g onto baking sheets. Bake for 8 minutes at 200°C in a fan oven. Vanilla Chantilly cream 300 g single cream 80 g Mascarpone 1 Vanilla pod 20 g Sugar 21 g Gelatine Infuse the vanilla in the warm single cream for 15 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and the softened gelatine. Blend. Mango passion fruit glaze  150 g Mango pulp 150 g Passion fruit pulp 300 g Single cream 262 g Sugar 46 g Water 28 g Potato flour 64 g Gelatine Combine the fruit pulp with the cream and heat. Slowly add the potato flour then the sugar and water. Bring to the boil. Blend. Use at 25°C. Assembly for cylindrical moulds: Cut out 1 x 12cm strips for the moulds. Roll them around the biscuit that you have cut to 12cm. Make the Chantilly cream and pipe on the biscuit to the edge of the mould. Use a piece of Lactée Supérieure 38% chocolate to close the mould. Ice the dessert and decorate.

Egg yolks Sugar 1 Cornstarch Butter Egg whites Sugar 2

Corentin Poirier-Martinet Cacao Barry® Chef

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3. Chocolate tartlet with Zéphyr™ Caramel chips

Chocolate tartlet with Zéphyr™ Caramel chips 8 units Where did the idea for this dessert come from? For the tartlet, the aim was to combine caramel and chocolate in a delicious creation. The Zéphyr™ Caramel cocoa chips add a delicious crunchy extra. Cocoa sweet shortcrust pastry 62 g Butter 58 g Icing sugar 110 g Flour 28 g Extra Brute cocoa powder 44 g Egg yolks 3g Salt Combine the dry ingredients (icing sugar, flour, cocoa powder) and the butter in the blender to a sandy consistency. Add the egg yolks and combine to form a dough. Roll out to 2 mm and cut out a 6.5 cm circle (2 cm high). Bake in a fan oven for around 15 minutes at 165°C. Egg wash the pastry and bake for a further 6 minutes at 165°C.   Caramel chip chocolate cream 150 g Milk 60 g Sugar 65 g Egg yolks 30 g Inaya 65% dark couverture chocolate 30 g Grand Caraque cocoa mass 30 g Zéphyr™ Caramel cocoa chips Make a crème anglaise and heat to 82°C. Pour over the chocolate and the cocoa mass. Blend and pour 20 g into each tart base. Freeze for a few minutes before adding the cocoa chips (5 g per tartlet).

Whipped chocolate ganache  100 g Cream 1 24 g Glucose 61 g Extra Bitter Guayaquil 64% dark couverture chocolate 30 g Alunga™ 41% milk couverture chocolate 14 g Gelatine 210 g Cream 2 Bring cream 1 to the boil with the glucose. Pour over the chocolates and gelatine and blend. Add cream 2 and blend. Whip the cold ganache and pipe 40g into 6 cm diameter Flexipan moulds. Freeze. Chocolate glaze 60 g Water 93 g Sugar 93 g Glucose 80 g Sweetened condensed milk 120 g Extra Bitter Guayaquil 64% dark couverture chocolate 56 g Gelatine Bring the water, sugar and glucose to the boil. Pour over the gelatine, chocolate and condensed milk. Blend and use at 29°C. Assembly: Ice the ganache disk and put it on top of the tartlet filled with chocolate cream, Zéphyr™ Caramel cocoa chips and creamy caramel. Decorate with crêpe dentelle.

Caramel cream  83 g Sugar 92 g Glucose 1 175 g Cream 44 g Milk 44 g Glucose 2 1 Vanilla pod 2g Fleur de sel 62 g Butter Heat the cream with the milk, glucose, vanilla and salt. Heat the caramel and glucose to 190°C. Deglaze and reheat to 104°C. Add the butter when the caramel has cooled to 70°C. Blend. When cooled to 25°C, fill the tarts with the caramel cream. Refrigerate.

Caramel

Cacao Barry®

Corentin Poirier-Martinet Cacao Barry® Chef

11

4. Crème brulée Lactée Caramel

Crème brulée Lactée Caramel 8 units What gave you the idea for this dessert? The idea of combining crème brûlée with a caramel-flavoured chocolate intrigued me. Lactée Caramel crème brûlée 22 g Sugar 1 182 g Milk 182 g Cream 0.5 Vanilla pod 5g Salt 34 g Sugar 2 72 g Egg yolks 72 g Lactée Caramel 31% couverture chocolate Make a dry caramel with sugar 1 and cool with the boiling milk and cream. Pass through a chinois and make up the weight to 386g with equal parts milk and cream. Add the vanilla and the salt and leave to infuse for 15 minutes. Heat the cream to 80°C. Add the egg yolk and sugar 2 combined, then the chocolate. Blend. Pass through a chinois. Pour 8 x 50 g and 8 x 20 g in a Flexipan 6.5 cm in diameter. Cook in a steam oven at 90°C for 15 minutes for the small disks and 50 minutes for the big disks. Freeze. Caramel cream 83 g Sugar 92 g Glucose 1 175 g Cream 44 g Milk 44 g Glucose 2 1 Vanilla pod 2g Fleur de sel 62 g Butter

Caramel mandala 100 g Sugar 33 g Water 33 g Glucose Slowly bring the water and sugar to the boil. Add the glucose and skim the sides of the pan. Heat the sugar to 180°C. Pour on to a Silpat sheet. Under a sugar lamp, pull the threads into curved shapes to make the mandala. Put together the mandala then carefully stick to the sugar disk. Crème brulée  112 g Milk 23 g Cream 36 g Egg yolks 30 g Caster sugar 0.2 Vanilla pod Infuse the vanilla for 15 minutes in the boiled milk and cream. Add the remaining ingredients. Bake in a bain-marie at 82°C. Put to one side. Assembly: Put the large disk in the centre of a plate. With the cutter cut out 5 cm circles then put the outer ring in the centre of the largest disk. Pipe in a generous caramel cream centre to fill the cavity. Place the sugar disk and mandala in the middle and pour the hot crème anglaise around just before serving.

Heat the cream with the milk, glucose, vanilla and salt. Heat the caramel and glucose to 190°C. Deglaze and reheat to 104°C. Add the butter when the caramel has cooled to 70°C. Blend. Sugar disk 100 g Sugar 33 g Water 33 g Glucose Slowly bring the water and sugar to the boil. Add the glucose and skim the sides of the pan. Heat the sugar to 165°C. Cool then blend to a fine powder. Sprinkle a thin layer on a Silpat baking sheet. Bake in a fan oven until caramelised. Cut out with a cutter. Store in a dry place.

Caramel

Cacao Barry®

Corentin Poirier-Martinet Cacao Barry® Chef

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Corentin Poirier-Martinet From the age of 8, Corentin began baking cupcakes in the family kitchen. He was a great fan of patisserie from a very early age and at 13 did an apprenticeship with Mathieu Mandart, in his boutique that was on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris at the time. Enrolled in the prestigious Ecole Ferrandi from 15, he spent 3 years as an apprentice with Laurent Duchêne, a member of the Relais Desserts International association, winner of the World Patisserie Cup in 1999 and Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1993. He then joined Laurent Duchêne’s Atelier Laboratoire and was responsible for the production of all pastries for the three stores in Paris. To learn everything possible about baking and patisserie, Corentin then spent three years at the Ecole de Boulangerie et Pâtisserie in Paris. With his teachers, he carefully prepared for the Meilleur Apprenti de France competition and won the title in 2016 with the support of Laurent Duchêne and Jean-Michel Perruchon (Director of the Ecole Bellouet Conseil). He graduated with his Patisserie Diploma and continued his apprenticeship at Le Meurice alongside Cédric Grolet. After two years in 5-star Parisian hotels, Corentin joined the Patisserie team at the Colorava Tea Room where he was given free rein. This new experience was the opportunity for him to try out his creative ideas and test his pastries directly on customers. At 23, the young chef decided to embark on a new project and recently joined the Creative team at the Dominique Ansel Bakery in New York.

Caramel

Cacao Barry®

Corentin Poirier-Martinet Cacao Barry® Chef

15

Les papilles du chimiste, Raphaël Haumont, Dunod collection Le répertoire de la cuisine innovante, Thierry Marx & Raphael Haumont, Flammarion collection Références sites web cnrtl.fr/etymologie/caramel societechimiquedefrance.fr/caramel.html

Caramel Recipes by Corentin Poirier-Martinet with the collaboration of Cacao Barry® pastry chef Arnau Arboix Cacao Barry®