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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Making Wooden Vises

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There are two vises described in this article, first a tail vise and then at the end a front vise. You'll find tail vises on many traditional benches because of their versatility. One advantage they have over front vises is that there are no support members directly below the jaws, so that a long board will fit vertically in the jaw center where holding pressure is best. Also, the vise jaw and bench top can be fitted with slots for bench dogs which let you hold long or short boards horizontally on the bench top.

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Drill Press Cart Download Digital Plans Immediately Click photo for details. More digital plans.

Cut out list, Tail Vise

5 Router Jigs

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2- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 5 jaws (fixed and moving) 1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 6-3/4 moving jaw 1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 12 rear jaw 1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 36 end cap 1- 1-3/4 x 2-1/2 end cap support 1- 1-3/4 x 5-1/2 x 70 front of bench front section 1- 1-1/8 x 1-3/4 x 32 guide bar 1- 3/4 x 3-3/4 x 15-3/4 front plate 2- 3/4 x 5 x 13 top and bottom plates

Workbench

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Rocking Horse

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Wooden screws are not very hard to make with the screw boxes and taps available from tool suppliers, and you'll save some money since boxes and taps are cheaper than steel screws. Wooden screws will hold up well for a long time, and can apply more than enough pressure for your needs. However, you do need a lathe to make a round shaft for the threads, as well as a drill press to accurately align the threaded hole. If you prefer, steel screws can be fitted onto either of the two vises described here.

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Resources For Building Wooden Vises Clamps | Glue | Routers | Table Saws | Lathes | Thread Boxes and Taps

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Wood Tips To see another tip- hit "Refresh" or "F5"

#3- TABLE SAW TENONING. Build a table saw tenoning jig to make cuts on the ends of parts held vertically. The jig rides in a miter gauge slot on a tongue attached on the bottom. Construct the carrier portion of the jig so that it slides toward and away from the blade, while staying parallel to it. Secure the carrier to the base with T-nuts mounted in the base itself.

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TAIL VISE Before you build your tail vise, take a close look at how it's designed so you'll understand where the forces are transferred when the vise clamps down on work. You'll be better able to build a properly functioning vise when you understand the function of each of the parts. The moving jaw pushes your work against the fixed jaw. The screw, however, does not directly push against the moving jaw. If it did, the end of the screw would bore a hole into the back of the moving jaw with time. So, the moving jaw gets pushed by the rear jaw, which gets pushed itself by the knuckle of the screw. Because the rear jaw pushes the moving jaw, it is very important to have a solid connection between the two. The outer plate, top and bottom plates, and guide bar all transfer force from the rear to the moving jaw, and must be joined with care for a tight fit. The screw knuckle shoulder pushes the rear jaw by pulling against the screw threads. These threads pull against their corresponding threads within the end cap. Thus as the vise clamps down on work, it pulls the end cap away from the bench. Threaded rods hold the cap firmly against the end of the bench. A heavy block, lag screwed to the underside of the bench top, connects the threaded rods to the bench top. But that doesn't complete the chain of force transfer on this particular bench design, which has the bench top in four sections so that it can be easily disassembled. The first of these sections contains the fixed jaw, but the threaded rods are attached to the second of the four. These two sections must be securely fixed together, else as the vise is tightened it will push the first away from the second, shearing along the edges where they join. A dozen or so 1/2" dowels installed along this joint hold the two together and complete the circle of forces between the two jaws. Begin building the tail vise by cutting out all your parts to size as shown on the list. Choose very straight pieces for these parts. Set up a finger joint jig at the table saw, using a dado set stacked out to 3/4" wide. Use this setup to cut finger joints in the fixed, moving, and rear jaws, as well as the outer cap that joins the fixed jaw, and the front plate that joins the moving and rear jaws. Note that this front plate is 3/4" thick, whereas the jaws it joins are both 1-3/4" thick. This means you must alter the height of the dado to accommodate the thickness of the joining part. Also note that the front plate does not come flush to the top or bottom of the jaws, but is inset 3/4" both at top and bottom. The top and bottom plates, both 3/4" thick, slide in above and below the front plate to take this up. Thus, make the front plate with fingers on its outer edges as shown (rather than slots), and make the jaws with fingers on the outer edges too. Make the moving jaw out of two pieces of 13/4" stock. Put finger joints into only one of the two. Cut a bench dog dado along the inside face of each of these on the table saw with multiple cuts. The exact dimensions of the dado will depend on the size of the dogs you use, get them first so that you can make test dados in scrap to determine the exact size. Fit the dado so that the dog will

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

slide easily within but will stay up by itself without dropping in by gravity. Don't glue the two jaw pieces together yet.

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Cut 1/4" by 1/4" dadoes along the inside faces of the moving and rear jaws for the tongues of the top and bottom plates. Locate the inner edges of these dadoes at 3/4" from the outer edges of the jaws. Stop the dadoes on the rear jaw so that they are no longer than 5". Make these stopped cuts on the table saw by measuring 5" from the front of the blade toward the back of the table, and draw a line on the table. Make multiple cuts with the saw, adjusting the fence to establish the width of the dadoes. During each cut, push the rear jaw only as far as the 5" line, then pull it back. Use the same setups for the moving jaw, stopping the cut at 5" along the bottom of the jaw, but going through at the top. Use a 1/4" chisel to complete the stopped dadoes, which will be rounded on the ends from the blade. Cut 3/8" by 1-3/4" mortises on the rear jaw to fit the guide bar, and on the guide bar itself for the moving jaw. Use a mortising chisel on the drill press to cut the mortises, or bore holes with the drill press or dowel jig and chisel the mortises square. Cut tenons on the guide bar and moving jaw to fit the mortises. Cut the tenon on the jaw using a table saw cutoff box as a guide. Place the box on the table saw, and raise the blade to 1-3/4" above the box plywood. Mark out the inside end of the jaw to show where the tenon will go. Place the jaw on end against the fence of the box, and cut the waste away from either side of the tenon. Then make more cuts toward the top of the jaw to remove the waste from that area, but don't remove all of the waste. You need some of it to support the part as it is cut. Leave 1/4" or so at the end, then cut that off with a hand saw. Cut a tenon on the end of the guide bar with a table saw tenoning jig.

Photo 1- Glue together the moving jaw, rear jaw, guide bar and front plate of the tail vise. Ensure that the four pieces are square to each other.

Bessey Tradesman Bar Clamps

Pipe Clamps One of the most versatile clamps, because you can use them with pipe of any length.

For clamps, click here. For glues, click here. Bore a hole in the rear jaw for the screw shank. The diameter you use will depend on the screw box you use (or size of steel screw), since the box will work only with one diameter shaft. Glue together the rear and moving jaws with the guide bar and front plate as in photo 1.

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Building Wooden Vises - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 2- Glue up a turning blank out of hardwood for the vise screw. Be sure all parts are of equal thicknesses, and are square, so that all surfaces contact for a solid glue bond.

Gazebo

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Make a turning blank for the screw by gluing together blocks for the knuckle as in photo 2. Let dry thoroughly, then turn the shaft down to the exact diameter specified by the instructions that come with the screw box. Use the box to cut the threads as in photo 3. Lathes from Tools Plus Good selection of different models and prices. Tools-Plus will beat some lower prices on the web by 10%. See their price guarantee

Country Shelf

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Photo 3- Turn the blank on a lathe to the exact diameter specified in the instructions with your thread cutting tool. Make a test blank and make sample threads, then cut your vise screw threads.

For lathes, click here.

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12 oz. Trim Hammer

Make the end cap out of two pieces as shown in the drawings. Cut a groove along the inside edge of the outer piece, to fit a tongue on the edge of the bench top itself. Make this tongue along the bench top edge with a router and a straight flute bit. Clamp a fence to the top to guide the router and limit its cut. Bore a hole in the end cap on the drill press for the screw to fit. Take extra care that this hole is bored at 90o. Tap the hole for threads as in photo 8. Laminate together pieces for the front bench section, as described in the project in this site on making a Traditional Workbench. However, this front section differs from the other bench slabs in several respects, it is much thicker, not as wide, and has the fixed jaw with its finger joint. Bore holes into the layers for threaded rods that will hold all the top sections together, as described in the Traditional Workbench project on this site.

Titebond Glue Available in different sizes.

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 4Laminate together a front section for the bench, incorporating within this section slots for bench dogs. Nail the short parts between slots in place during the glue up to hold them steady while clamped.

3" Roller

Incorporate into these laminations bench dog slots by spacing short pieces closely together as in photo 4. Ensure that the pieces are uniformly spaced by making a spacer that you place between them as they are located on the lamination. Nail down each section in its proper location during the glue up, then proceed with gluing and clamping the remainder of the pieces. Photo 5- Fit the tail vise to the bench top with the all the top pieces bolted together, and the whole top placed upside down. Check that the guide bar slides easily in its notch in the end cap. Glue the front of the moving jaw to the inside moving jaw, taking care to align the two dados for the dog slot. Join the front bench section to the other sections with a dozen dowels as discussed above, then bolt together all the bench top sections and turn them upside down. Fix the end cap onto the end with short threaded rod sections as in photo 5. Put the tail vise in place as shown in that photo. http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/ShopProj/woodvice/index2.html (2 of 5)29/12/2003 18.20.30

Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 6- Install the screw in the vise, check that the jaws slide easily as the screw is turned, and install keepers as shown to hold the vise in place.

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#12- TABLE SAW SAFETY TIP. Roll up your sleeves at the table saw. If cloth touches the blade it will grab it, and pull your arm into the blade.

The tail vise is held in place by two keepers on the guide bar, as well as by the screw itself. Install the screw and keepers as shown in photo 6. Cut tongues on the ends of the top and bottom plates at the table saw, and slide them into place within their dadoes on the moving and rear jaws. Hold the plates in place with one small screw at each end, which comes from the top or bottom of the jaw and contacts the plate tenon within its groove. Mount the bench top onto the leg assembly with the right top rail just to the left of the fixed jaw. Let the guide bar come close to the front edge of the front right post. You will have to cut off about 3/4" from the bottom of the front end of the top rail to make way for the guide rail, as shown in the drawing. FRONT VISE

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 7- Cut slots for front vise guides on the bottom of the front section of the bench. Use a straight bit in the router, guide the cut with a fence clamped to the piece upon which the router base rubs.

Porter Cable 1-3/4 HP Lever Release 690 Router The PC 690 line routers are standard woodshop workhorses.

For routers, click here.

Bessey Power Grip

After the tail vise, a front vise is very simple. Remove the front bench top section, and cut grooves in the bottom of it for guides with a router and straight flute bit. Clamp a fence to the underside of the work to guide the router during the cut. Rub the router base against the edge of the fence as shown in photo 7. Bore a hole for the screw, and tap it as in photo 8. Join the guides to the jaw with mortise and tenon joints, much as you joined the guide bar for the tail vise. When the guides are in place, screw a keeper over them to hold them in place.

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Clamps

Photo 8- Cut internal threads for the screw in the front section of the bench top.

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Resources For Building Wooden Vises Clamps | Glue | Routers | Table Saws | Lathes | Thread Boxes and Taps

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130 Printed Plans by Mail 150 Digital Download Plans 300 Project Plans Books Welcome! Here you will find a variety of woodworking projects and techniques available to you at no cost, as well as plans for sale. You may print out the free ones, but only for the purpose of building the project yourself. All of the free pages are formatted to print in a reasonably efficient manner from your browser. If you wish, limit your print to just the first few pages to print just the drawings and take them into your shop. Or print out the whole file. You are free to use these pages to build your own projects but you may not reproduce, distibute or sell them or their contents in any way without my prior permission. Use these links to go straight to the projects.

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Furniture Plans Listing Includes: Bombe Vitrine Book Caddy Corner Cabinet Doll Bed End Table Knickknack Shelf Nesting Tables Oriental Cabinet Oval Side Table Secretary Desk Serving Tray Small End Table

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Welcome! Here are a variety of shop projects and techniques available to you at no cost, as well as printed plans available by mail. You may print out the free ones, but only for the purpose of building the project yourself. All of these pages are formatted to print in a reasonably efficient manner from your browser. If you wish, limit your print to just the first few pages to print just the drawings and cut list, then take them into your shop. Or print out the whole file. You are free to use these pages to build your own projects but you may not reproduce, distibute or sell them or their contents in any way without my prior permission.

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Shop Projects Listing - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Benchtop Router Table

Mounting A Router In A Table Top

Simple yet sturdy router table.

Instructions for mounting a router in a router table or other surface.

Floor Standing Router Table Larger router table with storage drawers.

Router Table Fence Allows precision adjustment of the distance from fence to bit.

Traditional Workbench Stack laminate standard stock to make parts for a solid bench.

Wooden Vises Instructions for two vises, and tail and front vise.

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Bench Top Router Table

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Cut List Bench Top Router Table 27- 3/4 x 2 x 21 laminations for the top

ROCKLER ONLINE SPECIALS! See what they've got on sale this month. Some real deals here.

2- 3/4 x 2 x 20 feet 4- 3/4 x 2 x 16 side rails 2- 3/4 x 2 x 14-1/2 rear rails 6- 3/4 x 2 x 11-1/4 legs

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Bench Top Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Portable Benchtop Saw Station Download Digital Plans Immediately Click photo for details. More digital plans.

Resources For Building A Bench Top Router Table Clamps | Drill Bits | Hand Drills | Routers | Router Bits If you don't have space in your shop for a floor mounted router table, or if you want a simpler route to a router table so to speak, consider this project. Remember, also, that at times it is handy to have two router tables and you certainly don't need to build two floor mounted units. This smaller model is easy to build, store, and use, and will function just as well for most routing purposes as any other larger model. Rockler Bench Top Router Table Mount your router into this economical unit.

On this router table you'll make a heavy duty top, using stack laminations of hardwood. This takes time to make, but over the long run a top like this will hold up to crushing by clamps and other hard use. If you prefer, you can use a particleboard or plywood top to make it easier. Begin by getting out all the parts. Note that they are all the same width, but most of the parts for the undercarriage are shorter than those needed for the top. This is useful for making efficient use of your stock. As you look for length combinations in your stock that will give you the numerous 20" long pieces needed for the top, often you will find combinations that give you, say, two 20" and one 18". "Darn," you think, "if only it were two inches longer!" Well don't go buy a board stretcher yet, just use that 18" piece for one of the 16" side rails.

Benchtop Router Table With Porter Cable 690 Router

As you get out the pieces, remember that you can use pieces with bad defects in the stack lamination. There is no need to cut out all the knots and rough edges, so long as each part has one clean edge that you can turn upward for the top. Glue together all the pieces for the top in one gluing operation. Use a lot of glue on the lamination faces, because you are gluing a broad area and much of the glue will be absorbed. If you lay down only a thin layer you run the risk of it all being absorbed so that the joint itself is starved. Keep hot water and rags close by to deal with the mess.

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Bench Top Router Table - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Keep a close eye on how flat your glue up is. Put your clamps onto a flat surface to begin with so that what is put on them will be relatively flat too. As you tighten the clamps on the laminations some of them will slide and shift around under pressure and with the slippery glue. Lay a straight edge across the top and correct any discrepancies greater than 1/8". Later you'll rout off that last 1/8", but for now just guarantee that they stay close. Rockler Router Table Package Includes table top with quality fittings, adjustable fence AND Porter Cable 690 Router. Good deal.

Note that the whole thing can become twisted, like an oriental fan beginning to open. Conceptually this is a neat idea but it's devastating for your router table, so watch that the two end laminations stay parallel. To do so use winding sticks, which are two straight sticks, of uniform width, about three feet long. Place one on one of the end laminations (perpendicular to them), the other on the other end. Stand to the side and align your line of sight along the top edge of both sticks. If the two laminations are not parallel, you will immediately see the discrepancy along the winding sticks. A little out of parallel is not bad at this stage, but use the winding sticks to guarantee that things aren't real bad.

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Porter Cable 1-3/4 HP Lever Release 690 Router The PC 690 line routers are standard woodshop workhorses.

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Downloadable Plans for Shop Projects Welcome! Click on one of the Photos Below to see more detail about that plan and to see ordering information. How do I get my plans? When you purchase one of these plans, you will be given simple instructions for downloading a PDF file that contains the plan. PDF is just a file type that's set up to download and print out easily. To view the PDF file, you must have Adobe Acrobat Reader loaded on your computer. Acrobat Reader is a free, simple program that just does one thing- lets you look at and print PDF files. When you buy a plan you will be given a link for downloading Acrobat Reader, if you don't already have it. So, to buy a plan, you simply pay with a credit card and then follow instructions to download the PDF file to a directory on your computer (put it in My Documents if you like). Then you go to that directory, click on the file and Acrobat Reader opens it up for you automatically. Then you can print it out or just look at it on your computer. You can test the download process with one or more free plans. Try these: Shelf Plan, Planter Plan, Step Stool Plan, or Country Shelf Plan. Mailed Copies- If you prefer, many of these plans can be mailed to you in a printed version.

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Downloadable Project Plans - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Weekend Workbench

Handyman Workbench

Planer Stand

Ultimate Router Table

Mobile Planer Station

Craftsman Tool Chest

Classic Workbench

European Workbench

Lathe Stand Kitchen Center

Potting Bench

Shop Utility Station

Utility Workbench

Storage Bins

Portable Router Station

Portable Workbench

Drill Bit Cabinet

Router Table

Miter Saw Station

Small Bench

Portable Benchtop Saw Station

Sawhorse

Workbench Cabinet Drill Press Cart

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Downloadable Project Plans - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Fold-Down Work Center

Utility Cabinet

Pegboard Wall Storage

Rolling Tool Cart

Rolling Tool Cabinet

Wall Tool Cabinet

Table Saw Cabinet

Storage Shelves

Wall Storage Bins

Adjustable Dado Jig

Band Saw Circle Jig

Band Saw Upgrade Table And Fence

Box Joint Jig

Dovetail Jig

Drill Press Table & Fence

5 Router Jigs

5 Circular Saw Jigs

Miter Gauge Fence

Plate Joinery Basics

Sliding CrossCut Box

Tenon Jig

Panel Cutting Guide

Taper Jig

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Trim Carpentry Secrets

Downloadable Project Plans - Jeff Greef Woodworking

7 Basic Jigs

Plate Joiner Review

Combination Router Kit Review

Router Table Review

Using Water Based Finishes

Spray Gun Techniques

Brushing Techniques

Router Bit Basics

Cross-Cut Techniques

Rip Cut Techniques

Gluing Basics

Bent Lamination Techniques

Table Saw Tune-Up

Portable Tools Tune-Up

Bench Planes Tune-Up

Pocket Hole Joinery

Radial Arm Saw Tune-Up

Plate Joinery Techniques

Jointer Tune-Up

Band Saw Review

Rotating Work Table

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Page 2, Bench Top Router Table Go back to Page 1. Tell Your Friends about this page. Click here to send an email. Thank You!

Photo 1- Flatten the router table top with this router jig, which causes the router to travel in straight lines in both directions. Porter Cable 1-3/4 HP Lever Release 690 Router The PC 690 line routers are standard woodshop workhorses.

If you need a router, click here. When the lamination is dry, set up to flatten it by clamping two boards with straight edges onto either side of the lamination as in photo 1. The top edges of these boards must meet three requirements. They must be straight, they must be parallel, and they must be clamped at close to equal distances from all four corners of the lamination. These boards act like winding sticks, so you can sight down them to ensure that they are parallel. Measure carefully to align the glue up with the tops of the

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Jeff Greef Woodworking

boards.

Pipe Clamps One of the most versatile clamps, because you can use them with pipe of any length.

Porter-Cable 694VK 13/4 HP Variable Speed Router Kit Porter-Cable New $199.00! (Prices May Change) Privacy Information

The last component in the operation is the router slide jig. This is simply two straight pieces of 1x2 with a plywood router mount in the middle, as shown in photo 1. The slide jig rides on top of the straight edge boards clamped to the glue up, and guides the router along a straight path between the two boards. Mount a 1/2" or greater diameter straight flute bit in the router, and set the depth of cut so that it reaches the lowest area on the lamination surface. Wax the straight edges on the guide boards, turn on the router, and gradually move the router back and forth until you have skimmed over the entire surface of the lamination. This procedure will produce a flat surface only if the guide boards and jig boards are straight and parallel. Another threat to flatness is distortion to the lamination from clamps. Your bar clamps may bow the glue up as pressure is applied. When you cut the surface it will be flat, but when you let off the clamps it springs back and is no longer flat. If your bar clamps bow the lamination, place clamp blocks between the clamp jaws and the wood they contact. Shift the location of these blocks up or down to change the point at which pressure is applied. When pressure is applied at the center of the lamination, it should not bow. When the top is flat, flip it over and flatten the bottom. This is important so that when you screw the base on, the top won't distort if the screws pull on an uneven surface along the bottom. The top and bottom needn't be exactly parallel, but challenge yourself and see if you can get them close. It's perfect when the thickness is even all the way around. Make three rectangular frames for the base of the table, using the legs and rails shown on the cut out list. Note that you may wish to increase the height of the six legs according to the height you require beneath the table to fit your particular router. The given dimensions allow one foot clearance beneath which is adequate for most routers.

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Photo 2- You can use a simple tenoning jig such as this to cut open mortise and tenon joints on the ends of parts.

Heavy Duty Tenoning Jig

Toggle Clamps If you need a toggle clamp, click here.

Carriage Tenoning Jig

Use a table saw tenoning jig to cut open mortise and tenon joints to join the parts of the three frames as in photo 2. Or, cut the rails shorter and use dowels and a dowel jig. Either way, glue up the frames, then clamp the smaller of the three between the inside faces of the two larger ones as in photo 3, and screw them together. Use 2" screws and predrill holes for them. Next take this frame and clamp it to the underside of the top as shown in photo 4. Use 2-1/2" screws to secure the frame and top together as shown, again predrilling for the screws.

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Tapered Drill Bits With Countersinks Photo 3- Screw together the three frames that make up the base.

Black and Decker 3/8" Drill Your basic hole puncher.

If you need a handdrill, click here. If you need drill bits, click here. Lastly screw the two feet onto the bottom of the two side frames. The function of these is primarily to give you an easy area to clamp to for securing the table to your bench top.

Photo 4- Screw the base to the table top through the top rails as shown, and lastly screw the feet onto the bottom rails.

Bessey Tradesman Bar Clamps

Now you've got a router table, but you need to get a router into it. For that, go to Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top, on this site. Dresser Order Print Plans Click photo for details. More printed plans.

Resources For Building A Bench Top Router Table Clamps | Drill Bits | Hand Drills | Routers | Router Bits

This is Page 2 of this project.

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Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top

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Cedar Chest

Order Print Plans Click photo for details. More printed plans.

Porter Cable 693 Plunge Router Interchange motor with any PC690.

You can make a router table from any bench or table top by installing a router base into the surface. The method for doing so is the same whether you are applying it to an existing bench or building a new router table. A great advantage to making a bench top into a router table is the size of the bench top itself. It's hard to run long pieces on a small router table, but easy if the bit protrudes through the middle of a long bench. The disadvantages are that you now have a big hole in your bench, you can't use the router if the bench is being used otherwise, and you can't attach a fence without cutting more holes in the bench top for C-clamps to stick through. Life is full of compromises. There are two basic approaches to mounting a router into any table. The first is to simply cut a 1 or 1-1/2" hole in the table, and fix a router base beneath it. This will work well for certain operations, but limits the capabilities of your setups for the following reasons. First, because the base is below the table top by the thickness of the top itself, the height adjustment of your router is reduced by the thickness of the top. Secondly, you may sometimes want a larger hole for bigger router bits. But, you'll want a smaller hole when you use smaller bits so your parts don't dip into a gaping chasm in the top.

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Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Solution- mount the router base onto a 1/4" clear plastic plate, and fit that plate into the table in a rabbet. This brings the router base as close as possible to the table top, maximizing its height adjustment distance. And, you can make two or three different plastic plates with different sized central holes for use with different sized router bits. Mobile Planer Station

Download Digital Plans Immediately Click photo for details. More digital plans.

Begin the procedure by cutting a hole in the center of your router table, or in your table top, for the router base to fit within. Make this hole just large enough for the base to fit through, and remember that the handles on most router bases will unscrew to come out of the way. Cut the hole using a plunge router and a 3/8" or larger straight flute bit. Clamp four fences onto the top as in photo 1 for the edge of the plunge router base to butt against. Measure carefully the distance from the bit to the edge of the plunge router base, and locate the fences that distance from where you want the edge of the hole to be.

Photo 1- Cut a hole in your router table top using a plunge router and a straight flute bit. Clamp fences around the hole to limit the travel of the router.

If you need clamps, click here. If you need router bits, click here Straight Flute Bits Individual bits in various sizes

Bessey Tradesman Bar Clamps

Make the cut in stages. First set the plunge router to cut at a depth of 1/4 to 3/8", and cut at this setting all around the perimeter of the hole. Also cut inside the outer perimeter another 1/2" or so to make clearance for the bit as it gets deeper. Then drop the setting another 1/4 to 3/8", and cut again. Continue until your plunge setting cuts through the top. But- don't cut the central waste chunk free with the router, because it could get caught by the bit and thrown. Cut around 90% of its perimeter, then turn off and remove the router, knock the chunk free with a hammer, then use the router again to clean up what's left. Now move the four fences 1/2" away from the hole. Check that adjacent fences are all at 90o to each other. Set the plunge router to cut at a depth equal to the thickness of the plastic plate that you use. This depth setting is critical because you want the plastic plate to rest flush with the top of the surrounding table. Make test cuts using a small piece of the plastic to test the depth as in photo 2. If you happen to cut it too deep, you can shim up the plastic with masking tape, but if it is not deep enough your parts will hit the lip of the plastic whenever you use the table.

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Mounting a Router in a Bench or Table Top - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Photo 2- Reset the fences 1/2" behind their first position to cut a rabbet for plastic plates that will hold the router base in place. Carefully adjust the depth of the rabbet to match the thickness of the plastic plates.

Spray Gun Techniques Download Digital Plans Immediately Click photo for details. More digital plans.

Square up the corners of the rabbet for the plastic using a chisel. Cut out several squares of plastic that fit with little or no gap between themselves and the table. Remove the stock plastic base from your router base, and center it on one of the plastic plates. Mark the location of the screw holes that fix the stock plastic base to the router base itself, and mark the center of the base on the plastic plate.

C-Clamps Various different sizes.

I suggest that you bore these holes on a drill press, because plastic cuts differently than wood and can grab a twist bit as it comes through the cut. A Forstner bit is best for boring the large central hole, though a spade bit will do it. Firmly clamp the plastic in the drill press, and set it on a wood substrate for the bit to go into after the cut is made. Countersink the screw holes so the screw heads will be below the top surface. Home | Free Plans | Links | Newsletters | Tool Store | Book Store | Interviews | Contact & About | Safety You are visitor number 37597 to this page.

Jorgensen Hand Screws

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

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Router Table Fence

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Country Table

Order Print Plans Click photo for details. More printed plans.

This rather elaborate router table fence has clamps built into it to secure it to the table, as well as an adjustment for fine tuning the distance of the fence from the bit. All this is accomplished with T-nuts and shop-made knobs that have wooden handles epoxied to carriage bolts as shown in the drawing. The side clamps fix the base onto the table, then the fence itself pivots on the base on a wooden hinge. A bolt in a T-nut controls the distance of the fence from the base, a knob locks the fence in place.

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Tee Nuts Or Teenuts, or T-nuts, or however you want to spell it.

Router Table Download Digital Plans Immediately Click photo for details. More digital plans.

Resources for building a Router Table Fence T-Nuts | Epoxy | Miter Gauge | Dado Set | Table Saw

Table Saws Tools-Plus has a wide selection of different size models at low prices.

Photo 1- Cut the slots on the ends of the fence base using a table saw cut off box as shown.

Tools-Plus will beat some lower prices on the web by 10%. See their price guarantee

For table saws, click here.

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Cut slots on the ends of the base for the side clamps with a tablesaw cutoff box as shown in photo 1. Cut up to a scribed line as shown, then chop out the waste with a chisel. Next use a tenoning jig to cut open mortises on the remaining ends, as is shown in the Benchtop Router Table project on this site. Cut the tenons on the lock pieces to fit the open mortises as in photo 2. Since these pieces are short, cut them out of long stock and then cut to length after the tenons are done. Attach the lock pieces to the base with screws rather than glue to allow for moisture related movement in the base.

Photo 2- Cut tenons for the lock pieces that hold the side clamps within the slots on the fence base. For safety, make the pieces from long stock as shown. Screw a support fence to your miter gauge to hold the parts as they are cut.

Sure Lock Miter Gauge With fence and flip stop.

6" Carbide Dado Set Economical Freud dado set.

If you need a miter gauge, click here. If you need a dado set, click here. Assemble the clamps as shown in the drawing. Bore for the T-nuts in the top pieces, then glue and screw them to the long pieces. Place the clamp in the base before gluing and screwing the bottom pieces in place. Epoxy washers to the base beneath the bolt hole so the bolt bears on metal and not wood.

Delta Miter Jig Rigid, precise tool.

Assemble the fence hinge by stacking the parts together one by one, and place the hinge dowel within the parts as they are stacked to keep it all aligned. The fence clamp is just like the hinge, except that it has a bolt going through it rather than a dowel. Install a T-nut in the base for the fence clamp bolt to secure to. Make the http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/ShopProj/routfence/index.html (3 of 5)3/22/2005 8:55:56 AM

Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

holes in the fence clamp pieces through which the bolt passes 5/8" in diameter.

Tee Nuts Or Teenuts, or T-nuts, or however you want to spell it.

Wood Tips To see another tip- hit "Refresh" or "F5"

#37- CONTINUOUS FEED ON THE PLANER. If you have a lot of pieces to plane, the work will go faster if you can feed parts in continuously. To catch them as they come out, set up a temporary extension table at the outfeed. Angle this table up just slightly to lift the pieces a little as they come out. This will reduce snipe on the ends. Now you can push parts through end-toend without worry that they'll fall.

To adjust the fence, loosen the fence clamp and retract the adjustment bolt. Set the fence clamp in the middle of its travel, which is only about 3/8". Loosen the side clamps, set the fence to within 1/8" of where it needs to be in relation to the router bit, and tighten the side clamps. Tighten the fence clamp and make a test cut. Now adjust the exact location of the fence by loosening the fence clamp and making small adjustments with the fence adjustment screw. Always tighten the fence clamp after making adjustments.

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Router Table Fence - Jeff Greef Woodworking

Resources for building a Router Table Fence T-Nuts | Epoxy | Miter Gauge | Dado Set | Table Saw Box Joint Jig

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Download Digital Plans Immediately Click photo for details. More digital plans.

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Complete Router Table Woodworking Plan

PlansNOW / Workbenches and Shop Furniture /

Complete Router Table Woodworking Plan Here's a router table that does it all—dadoes, grooves, rabbets, decorative moldings —and you can build it in your own shop. Our router table base is stable, sturdy, and easy to build. We made it out of Douglas fir 2x4s. The top is made of laminated plywood and hardboard with a plastic laminate top and bottom surface, and hardwood edging. The fence is made of solid maple with sliding faces so you can adjust the opening to match the router bit you're using. The Tslot in the fence holds accessories and guards. This project was originally published inShopNotes Magazine No. 1. WHAT YOU GET 18 pages of step-by-step instructions including: special shop tips & techniques extra plans for table accessories cutting diagrams complete materials list Price $7.95

How to Buy this Woodworking Plan Download Plan to Your Computer This woodworking plan is a downloadablePDF file that you willsave to your computer after you complete your order. The file size is 1.6 megabytes and will take 7-8 minutes @28.8Kbps to download. You'll need Adobe'sFREE Acrobat® Reader 4.0 (or newer) installed on your computer to view and print the pages of this plan. Click on the "Add to Cart" button below to place your order.

Complete Router Table Woodworking Plan DN3013 $7.95

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