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BRITAIN THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

TRAVEL CULTURE HERITAGE STYLE

WIN a private

tour of the Royal Yacht Britannia

AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE

S hakespeare

under the stars From London’s Globe to Cornwall’s Minack Theatre

8

Romantic Lake District hideaways

Cream of Devon

ENGLAND’S QUEENS Our greatest female monarchs celebrated

The sleepy villages that inspired Agatha Christie’s mysteries

JULY/AUGUST 2015 £4.25 09

9 771757 973084

www.britain-magazine.com

EDITOR'S LETTER It’s now officially summer and what better way to celebrate than on a trip to the English Riviera, in Devon, the setting for our feature Sun, Sea and Smuggling (p6), which also provided much of the inspiration for Agatha Christie’s famous mysteries. Of course it wouldn’t be summer in Britain without the ubiquitous picnic and with this in mind, we’ve rounded up some of our favourite outdoor theatres in Shakespeare Under the Stars (p22) so you can enjoy a bit of culture alongside your al fresco dining. Talking of the great outdoors, there are few destinations as evocative as the Lake District – Romantic poet William Wordsworth once described it as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found” – and we’ve tracked down some of the region’s most charming hideaways in Romance of the Lakes (p49). Finally, the recent birth of Princess Charlotte has prompted us to celebrate some of our nation’s greatest female monarchs in Women Rule (p61), while in Cooking for Royalty (p80) we talk to the woman who was Prince Charles’s personal chef for 11 years. Enjoy.

Sally Coffey, Editor

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The colourful seaside town of Salcombe, Devon

CONTENTS VOLUME 83 ISSUE 4

FEATURES 6 22

@BRITAINMAGAZINE FACEBOOK/BRITAINMAGAZINE

PHOTOS: © ISTOCK/GARY CALTON/INCAMERASTOCK/ALAMY

PINTEREST/BRITAINMAGAZINE

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BRITAIN_MAGAZINE

BRITAIN THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

TRAVEL CULTURE HERITAGE STYLE

WIN

a private tour of the Royal Yacht Britannia

AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE

38

S hakespeare

under the stars From London’s Globe to Cornwall’s Minack Theatre

8

Romantic Lake District hideaways

Cream of Devon

ENGLAND’S QUEENS Our greatest female monarchs celebrated

The sleepy villages that inspired Agatha Christie’s mysteries

COVERs final.indd 2

JULY/AUGUST 2015 £4.25 09

9 771757 973084

www.britain-magazine.com

27/05/2015 08:44

Cover image: Devon © Andrew Roland/Alamy

www.britain-magazine.com

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SUN, SEA AND SMUGGLING With two dazzling coastlines, Devon was a smuggler's paradise and its connections to Agatha Christie are equally intriguing

SHAKESPEARE UNDER THE STARS From Regent's Park Open Air Theatre to the Globe, here are some of our most atmospheric al fresco performance venues

CAPITAL VIEWS

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Enjoy glorious vistas of London, from far-reaching views from the top of the Shard to romantic panoramas from Hampstead Heath

SECRETS AND SPIES We go behind the scenes at Bletchley Park, the unlikely spy base where Alan Turing and his team helped break the Enigma code

ROMANCE OF THE LAKES There are few places more romantic than the land of lakes and mountains, which inspired William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter to create their most famous works BRITAIN 3

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FEATURES 61 72 78 80

45 46 71 85

www.britain-magazine.com

WOMEN RULE The author of two books charting the history of our female monarchs shares stories on the most memorable queens in history

THE ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA We take a photo tour of the Edinburgh-based yacht that HM The Queen once called home

COMPETITION Win a private tour for two and a glass of Champagne on board the Royal Yacht Britannia

COOKING FOR ROYALTY The former chef to Prince Charles talks about working on Britannia and cooking for the young princes

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REGULARS 17

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

THE BULLETIN

SCANDALOUS ACCUSATIONS In the first of our new series, read about a Victorian mystery that captured imaginations

COMPETITION Win a two-night stay at The Stafford London in the heart of beautiful St James's

CITY BREAKS: ELY

98

QUIZ: WHAT'S IN A WORD?

Advertisement Manager Natasha Syed Sales Executive Jack Shannon Managing Director Paul Dobson Deputy Managing Director Steve Ross Commercial Director Vicki Gavin Subscriptions Manager William Delmont

Subscriptions and back issues UK/Rest of World: BRITAIN, Subscriptions Department, 800 Guillat Avenue, Kent Science Park, Sittingbourne, Kent ME9 8GU Tel: 01795 419839 Email: [email protected] http://britain.subscribeonline.co.uk North America: USA: Britain, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Tel: 888-321-6378 (toll free) Email: [email protected] http://britsubs.com/britain Canada: BRITAIN, 1415 Janette Avenue, Windsor, Ontario N8X 1Z1, Canada Tel: 888-321-6378 (toll free) Email: [email protected] Australia and New Zealand: BRITAIN, Locked Bag 1239, North Melbourne, VIC 3051, Australia. Tel: 02 8877 0373 Email: [email protected]

Win a break for two to Bletchley Park and stay in the Hilton Milton Keynes Hotel

LETTERS

Publisher Simon Temlett Digital Product Manager Oliver Morley-Norris

For VisitBritain Iris Buckley

COMPETITION

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Editor Sally Coffey Art Editor Clare White Sub Editor Ben Grafton Editorial Assistant Flora Hughes-Onslow

Printed in England by William Gibbons, Willenhall, West Midlands Production All Points Media

The arrival of the new royal baby, a rare artistic discovery and a recipe fit for the royals

Discover the Cambridgeshire city famous for its cathedral and links to Oliver Cromwell

BRITAIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency. BRITAIN is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ Tel: 020 7349 3700 Fax: 020 7901 3701 Email: [email protected]

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IN THIS ISSUE

Your views on Britain, and your magazine Learn your apples and pears from your dog and bone with our guide to Cockney rhyming slang SCOTLAND

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EDINBURGH p72

KESWICK p49

USA and Canada: CMG, LLC/155 Village Blvd/3rd Floor/ Princeton, NJ 08540 USA UK and Rest of World: Seymour International Ltd. 2 East Poultry Ave, London EC1A 9PT Tel: 020 7429 4000 Fax: 020 7429 4001 Email: [email protected] BRITAIN (ISSN 0019-3143) (USPS 004-335) is published bimonthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK Distributed in the US by Circulation Specialists, LLC, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484 Periodical postage paid at Shelton, CT and additional mailing offices POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRITAIN, PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518 Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GST Registered Number 834045627 RT0001 © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in BRITAIN has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarily those of the publisher or VisitBritain.

IRELAND ENGLAND

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LONDON p31 DEVON p6

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WORLD WIDE LIMITED EDITION OF 50 The gift of memories created in a breathtaking Keepsake Box

A unique and personal story told through exquisite marquetry is an extraordinary gift. The window scene displays, choice of colours together with the internal fittings, are personalised to each owner, thus ensuring every Box is always unique.

Call 01332 824819 or email us at [email protected] to request a free copy of the ‘Little Book of Memories’. Please visit www.exquisitememorybox.com to see examples of our work.

SUN, SEA & SMUGGLING With its history of illicit trading and connections to crime writer Agatha Christie, the beautiful county of Devon is a place of intrigue and boasts not one but two stunning coastlines WORDS SALLY COFFEY

3 HOURS FROM LONDON

Starehole Bay, Salcombe, offers impressive views and a sandy beach

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Clockwise, from top left: Kingswear, on the east bank of the River Dart; thatched cottage in Crediton; Bayards Cove, Dartmouth; hire a boat in Salcombe. Below: Agatha Christie at Greenway House

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ocooned between the southwesterly counties of Cornwall, Somerset and Dorset, Devon is a land of striking contrasts. In the southern half of the region you’ll find some of the prettiest beaches in Britain, framed by the picture-postcard villages of the English Riviera, which still evoke the old-school glamour of the 1920s and 30s, brought to life so vividly in the stories of Agatha Christie. Dartmoor National Park, in the middle of the county, is a sprawling area of untamed moorland, dotted with ancient sites, which led another crime writer, Arthur Conan Doyle, to write in The Hound of the Baskervilles: “The longer one stays here the more Baskervilles does the spirit of the moor sink into one’s soul, its vastness, and also its grim charm.” Finally, Exmoor and the north Devon coastline is the wilder cousin of the south coast and is home to hidden coves that make you wonder about the murky undertakings that once took place here. It was in the south, however, in an area known as the English Riviera, that Devon-born Agatha Christie wrote most prolifically. The sleepy yet refined corners of Torquay and its surrounds may not immediately strike you as a place

filled with murder, intrigue and passion, but perhaps therein lay its appeal for Christie; even long after she had left her childhood home in the town she returned to write here, bringing the allure of Devon to the rest of the world through the escapades of her two most popular detectives, Hercule Poirot and Miss Marple. Agatha Mary Clarissa Miller was born in Torquay on 15 September 1890 into a wealthy upper-middle-class family. Sadly the large Victorian mansion where Agatha grew up on Barton Road in the seaside town was demolished in the 1960s, but a blue plaque still marks the site of the home in which she lived until she married her first husband, Archibald Christie, with whom she had her only child, Rosalind. A visit here is a must for any Christie aficionado, if only for the views and to walk the lanes and stroll down to the sea – a route Agatha would have taken herself many times – or you could venture further inland towards Dartmoor to the town of Chudleigh where Agatha first met Archie. Fans can also visit some of the places that inspired her novels. Stay at the original Majestic Hotel (The Imperial Hotel in Torquay), which features in The Body in the Library and Peril At End House, or take a train ride to Churston Station on the Dartmouth Steam Railway, and walk down to Elberry Cove in Brixham – both the www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTO: © ISTOCK/ALAN COPSON/AWL IMAGES/STEPHEN BOND/ALAMY/HULTON-DEUTSCH COLLECTION/CORBIS/ CHARLES BOWMAN/GETTY IMAGES/ADAM BURTON/ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY. ILLUSTRATION: © SCOTT JESSOP.

train station and the beach are referenced in Christie’s bestselling novel The ABC Murders. Talking of steam trains, Greenway Halt on the same route is the nearest station to the writer’s much-loved home of Greenway, which is now in the hands of the National Trust and which Christie described as “the loveliest place in the world” – she even set three of her novels here. If you want to see more of the area, you can book on a round-robin trip from a choice of start points, which includes a ferry ride on the River Dart for views of Greenway from the water, a steam train ride and a bus journey through local towns and villages. A stop-off in Dartmouth, home to the eponymous castle, offers glorious views across the estuary towards the colourful town of Kingswear on the other side of the water, which also has its own castle; both fortresses played their part in the English Civil War. While here make sure you stop off for ice cream at the Dartmouth Ice Cream Company, or for some delicious cream tea, for which the area is famous – plenty of places can be found in the town’s cobbled back streets. Nowhere does clotted cream quite like Devon. Dartmouth is what lazy summer days were made for: eating fish and chips on the harbour wall as you watch the boats come and go or picnics on the beach. www.britain-magazine.com

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London’s Palaces Devon

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A visit to Torre Abbey, in Torquay, should also be on your itinerary. This 12th-century abbey is the largest surviving medieval monastery in Devon and Cornwall. Having been transformed into a private mansion following King Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries, today it hosts art exhibitions and events and from 11-20 September this year it will host the International Agatha Christie Festival, which celebrates the author’s 125th birthday. The Abbey is also home to the Spanish Barn, a medieval tithe barn where 397 Spanish Armada prisoners were held for two weeks after being captured by Sir Francis Drake. The barn is said to be haunted by ‘The Spanish Lady’; the fiancée of a young lieutenant who joined the Armada dressed as a sailor, and was imprisoned and died here. Legend has it she roams the barn crying for her lost love. There are many beaches to choose from in south Devon, from the tucked away South Sands, where a boutique hotel creeps onto the shore, offering privacy and comfort in equal doses, to the more traditional South Milton Sands, where shallow waters and rock pools encourage children to explore. At the latter the beachside café serves up tasty crispy squid and crab cakes. Meanwhile, the charming fishing villages of Salcombe and Brixham are delightful places to fill up on fresh seafood lunches or go present-hunting. www.britain-magazine.com

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PHOTOS: © JOHNROCHAPHOTO/ENGLAND/ALAMY/ADAM BURTON/AWL IMAGES

From left to right: Dawn above Holwell Tor, Dartmoor; pretty Rose Cottage in the village of Cockington, on the outskirts of Torquay

FREE PUBLIC LECTURES SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF LONDON

Art, archaeology, architecture, history and more. Join us for a lecture on material culture! 22 September (13.00 – 14.00) The Dublin King: What Really Happened to the ‘Princes in the Tower’ (by John Ashdown-Hill, FSA) 27 October (13.00 – 14.00) Agincourt: The Battle, Myth & Memory (by Anne Curry, FSA) Find details of these and more on our website at www.sal.org.uk/public-lectures. Space is limited and booking is recommended to avoid disappointment. Book via our website at www.sal.org.uk/events or call 020 7479 7080. W W W. S A L . O R G . U K / P U B L I C  L E C T U R E S

Henry V (1386–1422). Artist unknown, oil on panel, 16th century. © Society of Antiquaries of London The Society is a registered charity (207237)

Magna Carta

through the ages

Free Exhibition: 26 May – 31 July Museum Late: 19 June (details online) Society of Antiquaries of London Burlington House, Piccadilly www.sal.org.uk/magna-carta

Devon Left: The beautiful Art Deco Burgh Island Hotel

Right: Holidaymakers leave the famous Burgh Island Hotel in 1935. Left: Noss Mayo is considered to be one of Devon's most unspoilt villages

PHOTOS: © REG SPELLER/FOX PHOTOS/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES/ ROY RAINFORD/ROBERT HARDING/CORBIS/BARRY LEWIS/ALAMY

If this all sounds a little too sedate, then why not learn about the history of these two villages – Fort Charles is a reminder of Salcombe’s position as the last Royalist stronghold to survive during the English Civil War, while it was in Brixham that William of Orange (later King William III of England, Scotland and Ireland) landed and declared: “The liberties of England and the Protestant religion I will maintain.” The seclusion of this part of England meant it was long popular with smugglers and their illicit tradings. The village of Beer, in the southeast of the county, was the headquarters of a gang of smugglers led by Jack Rattenbury, known as ‘The Rob Roy of the West’. The bay was so protected here that seafarers often put out to sea in conditions that would be deemed too rough elsewhere. At Ness Cove, in Shaldon, you can still access the shingle beach via the atmospheric smugglers’ tunnel, although whether it was actually built by smugglers or the owners of nearby Ness House in the 1800s is a subject of debate. Whatever the origins of it, smugglers were known to operate in the area during this time. If you want to visit a bona fide smugglers’ tavern, then The Pilchard Inn on Burgh Island is worth a visit, if you time it right, as it’s only accessible on foot at low tide. The upstairs bar with its beams and flagstone floor www.britain-magazine.com

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Devon THE PLANNER

GETTING THERE Direct trains from London Paddington to Totnes with First Great Western take less than three hours. Look out for the stunning views between Exeter and Totnes. www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk SOUTH SANDS, SALCOMBE This seaside hotel and restaurant (above) offers soothing views, tasty dishes and exemplary service. It can be found tucked away down a winding road on the edge of a sandy beach. www.southsands.com ANCHOR INN, UGBOROUGH A pub offering B&B with a hearty menu and contemporary but homely rooms makes for a good base for exploring Dartmoor National Park. www.anchorinnugborough.co.uk AGATHA CHRISTIE MILE, TORQUAY To mark her 125th birthday a special walk has been devised from Agatha Christie’s hometown of Torquay along the seafront. Start off at either The Imperial Hotel or The Grand Hotel and look out for plaques along the way. Guided walks can also be arranged. www.englishriviera.co.uk ROYAL ALBERT MEMORIAL MUSEUM, EXETER Housed in a spectacular Victorian building in Exeter, this museum's collection includes glassware, West Country silver, clocks and watches, as well as displays on local history and archaeology. Children will love the exotic animals, birds and butterflies on display. www.rammuseum.org.uk ROYAL WILLIAM YARD, PLYMOUTH Set around the old naval docks in Plymouth in the west of the county, this collection of Grade I and II listed buildings has been reinvented into a buzzing area, with tea shops, independent boutiques and a fabulous food market the first Sunday of every month. www.royalwilliamyard.org

PHOTO: © SEBASTIAN WASEK/GETTY IMAGES

GRAZE AND FLAVOUR, PLYMOUTH If you want to learn a little more about the fishing industry on which this region has depended for centuries then these bespoke tours could be for you. Fish In Sutton Harbour (F.I.S.H), in Plymouth, offers a visit to the historic Barbican area as well as a tour of the fish market, before taking you out so you can catch your very own lunch in the area's surrounding waters. www.grazeandflavour.com

Above: The narrow cobbled streets of Clovelly, north Devon

is reserved for locals and guests from the Burgh Island Hotel, an Art Deco hotel that has been entertaining socialites since the 1920s, including Christie herself. Of course, not all smuggling was confined to the south coast – on the north coast, illegal trading was also rife, if a little riskier. The exposed north coast made landing here trickier but the benefit was that it was inconspicuous as revenue boats were less vigilant than in the south. It is in the village of Clovelly though that one of the murkiest local legends endures – that of cannibals keeping tubs of salted human flesh in caves along the coast, which (hopefully) was invented and retold to keep inquisitive visitors away from their hoards. Thankfully, visitors today can expect a much warmer welcome in this pretty village, where cobbled streets and ancient buildings lead down to the sea. If you want to appreciate the natural beauty of the county then you should visit one of its two national parks: Exmoor or Dartmoor. The former is a lush landscape of valleys, farms and woodland, with lots of cosy pubs and tearooms to stop in for refreshment, while in the latter you can discover Neolithic and Bronze Age villages that prove this area has attracted people for millennia.

 For more information on this intriguing part of Britain, including Agatha Christie's love of the region, visit www.britain-magazine.com

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Spend an inspiring day at Britain’s Greatest Palace

• Discover more than 300 years of history inside the Palace • Explore over 2000 acres of Parkland and Formal Gardens • Take a specialist tour from our new daily tours programme, including the Duke of Marlborough’s Private Apartments

• Enjoy a diverse and exciting range of events throughout the year • Celebrate our ‘Greatest Briton’ Sir Winston Churchill in this commemorative year by visiting our re-invigorated exhibition and new memorial garden, amongst many more dedicated experiences

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The Cotswolds The source for high quality art and antiques in Britain

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The Cotswolds Art and Antiques Dealers’ Association 50 dealers of knowlege and integrity located in the quintessentially English Cotswolds

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T: 07831 850544

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HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

The

BULLETIN

The latest news, from a certain royal birth to a rare artistic discovery, plus our favourite stately homes and traditional British recipes NEWS

A royal welcome On 2 May 2015, the world rejoiced at the news that Princess Charlotte of Cambridge had been born at St Mary's Hospital, London, and within hours she had taken part in her first photo shoot with her parents, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. Princess Charlotte was born at 8.34am and weighed 8lbs 3oz. Unsurprisingly, the new princess was soon showered with gifts from around the world, including a Tasmanian merino wool blanket and donation to a possum sanctuary from Australia, and a snowsuit and $100,000 donation to immunisation charities from Canada. The newest member of the Royal Family was also introduced to her great-grandmother, HM The Queen, who told guests at a Buckingham Palace garden party that she was delighted to have another girl in the family. Download your free copy of our digital souvenir magazine at www.britain-magazine.com/PrincessCharlotte, which celebrates Princess Charlotte’s birth with fun features and gorgeous photos.

HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

EXHIBITION

The perfect crime

NEWS

PHOTOS: © DOMINIC LIPINSKI/PA WIRE/ELEANOR TAYLOR/LINA MUMGAUDYTE/ENGLISH HERITAGE/ PHIL RIPLEY/LUCY MILLSON-WATKINS/ELAINE HILL PHOTOGRAPHY

Fine art The winner of the Prize for Illustration 2015 has been announced, selected from over 1,000 entries worldwide. This year the competition, run by The Association of Illustrators and London Transport Museum, invited artists to capture a famous or lesser-known place or concept in a single illustration, following the ‘London Places and Spaces’ theme. Gold went to artist Eleanor Taylor for her atmospheric depiction of the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, which will soon be displayed on a poster on the London Underground. Until 6 September 2015, 100 of the entered illustrations will be on display at the London Transport Museum, taking you on a visual journey across the capital. www.theaoi.com/events

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For the first time, objects from the Metropolitan Police’s Crime Museum will go on public display at the Museum of London in a major new exhibition, The Crime Museum Uncovered, which runs from 9 October 2015 until 10 April 2016. Visitors will be able to see evidence from some of the UK’s most notorious crimes, including the Great Train Robbery of 1963 and the Millennium Dome Diamond Heist of 2000. The exhibition will also look at terrorism, espionage, counterfeiting and narcotics, while the Crime Museum’s visitors’ book contains an eclectic list of names, including King George V and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. www.museumoflondon.org.uk

SHOPPING

Snug as a bug in a rug There’s nothing quite like a British picnic. Come rain or shine, you can count on Brits to fill parks, fields and beaches across the country, tucking into picnic hampers full of cucumber sandwiches, pork pies and strawberries. These picnic rugs, available from the National Trust, are perfect for such an outing, whether for sitting on or for wrapping up warm. Luxuriously soft and made in the UK from pure new wool, the Herringbone Rugs come in light green or slate blue and grey. Price £30 ($24). www.shop.nationaltrust.org.uk

NEWS

The real deal A rare artistic discovery has been made at Apsley House, the London home of the Duke of Wellington. While cleaning off centuries of thick black paint and grime, an English Heritage conservator uncovered a genuine Titian signature on a painting, which until then was believed to be an imitation of the 16th-century master. The battered painting of a woman half-wearing a gold braid-trimmed silk and fur robe (above), known as Titian’s Mistress, was once part of the Spanish Royal Collection, but was assumed to have been painted after the artist’s death in 1576. It will go on display at Apsley House from 1 July until the end of October 2015. www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/ places/apsley-house

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HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

OPEN HOUSE

The restoration game Following a three-year £8 million restoration, the resplendent 18th-century house of Mount Stewart, on the shores of Strangford Lough in Northern Ireland, is open again. Visitors will now be able to explore the reinvigorated rooms in the grand neoclassical mansion, with hundreds of new items on display, including 11 family portraits by 19th-century British portrait artist, Sir Thomas Lawrence (1769-1830), and the Congress of Vienna Desk

belonging to Viscount Castlereagh when he was Foreign Secretary, said to have been used at the signing of the Treaties of Paris and Vienna in 1814 and 1815. The garden has also been restored, reflecting the formal gardens created by Lady Edith Londonderry during the 1920s. Other additions include a 14ft Celtic figure, sculpted from yew, that will welcome visitors to the gardens. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/mount-stewart

RECIPE EXTRACTED FROM THE ROYAL TOUCH: SIMPLY STUNNING HOME COOKING FROM A ROYAL CHEF BY CAROLYN ROBB PUBLISHED BY ACC EDITIONS, £25. PHOTO: © SIMON BROWN

HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

READING CORNER Cosy up in your favourite chair and lose yourself in one of these books Life Portraits Series by Zena Alkayat and Nina Cosford (Frances Lincoln, £12). Charming illustrated biographies that offer quotes, inspiration and trivia on literary legends such as Jane Austen.

The word ‘muffin’ comes from the French ‘mouflet’ meaning ‘soft’ or ‘small child’

RECIPE

Breakfast muffins Carolyn Robb was personal cook to HRH The Prince of Wales for 11 years. Here she shares a delicious recipe from her cookery book. Turn to page 80 for our full interview.

I n g re d i e n t s: MAKES 24 MEDIUM MUFFINS 2 free-range eggs (UK medium/US large)

285g (10oz) plain flour (2 and a half cups)

285g (10oz) demerara or light soft brown sugar

1 tbsp bicarbonate of soda

80ml (2.7 fl oz) oil

2 tsp mixed spice

70g (2.5oz) oatbran

85g (3oz) soft, plump dried figs, finely sliced

450ml (15.2 fl oz) milk

FOR THE TOPPING:

1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp salt

Choose from: 100ml (3.4 fl oz) mixed linseeds, poppy seeds, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, flaked almonds, slivered pecans, chopped pistachios, pumpkin seeds and dried cranberries.

Method: Beat together the eggs and sugar in a large bowl and then add the oil and mix well. Add all the remaining ingredients, sieving the flour, salt and bicarbonate of soda. Mix well. Cover and leave in the refrigerator overnight to allow the bran to swell. Line two medium/large muffin tins with paper cases or ‘tulips’ of baking parchment. Spoon in the mixture and sprinkle with seeds. Bake at 160ºC (310ºF) for 20 to 25 minutes for medium muffins or, for the large ones, allow 30 to 35 minutes. Serve with butter, cream cheese, honey, jam, peanut butter or almond butter.

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First Lady: The Life and Wars of Clementine Churchill by Sonia Purnell (Aurum Press, £25). To coincide with the 50th anniversary of Winston Churchill’s death, this is a candid biography of his beloved wife. Beside the Sea: Britain’s Lost Seaside Heritage by Sarah Freeman (Aurum Press, £25). A celebration of the British seaside, with photography and memories from our forgotten youth. 25 Royal Babies that Changed the World (Amy Licence, £8.99). From Norman times to the birth of Princess Charlotte, Amy Licence examines royal births throughout history. The Mythology of Richard III (John Ashdown-Hill, Amberley, £16.99). Following Richard III's reinterment, this book explores the myths of the last Plantagenet king.

www.britain-magazine.com

Illustration: London Places and Spaces by Erica Sturla

The Prize for Illustration 2015

London Places and Spaces An exhibition of the best entries Open until 6 September 2015 London Transport Museum Covent Garden Piazza WC2E 7BB

Media partner

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Explore Britain A performance of Pride and Prejudice at Regent's Park Open Air Theatre

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PHOTOS: © DAVID JENSEN 2013/TRAVEL PIX COLLECTION/AWL IMAGES LTD/WASHINGTON ALLSTON/WIKIMEDIA

SHAKESPEARE UNDER THE STARS From historic stages like Regent's Park’s to spectacular settings such as Cornwall's Minack Theatre, here are some of our most atmospheric al fresco performance venues WORDS HEIDI FULLER-LOVE

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PHOTOS: © MARSHALL IKONOGRAPHY/ALAMY/ROBBIE JACK/CORBIS

n the early 18th century, following a fashion set by Europe, theatre was moved indoors away from the problems of inclement weather. It wasn’t until the Swinging Sixties, with the advent of al fresco pop concerts and impromptu ‘happenings’, that outdoor theatre became popular once more. These days audiences are more than happy to wrap up with a rug or wear a raincoat to watch their favourite play performed in a gorgeous natural setting. “Whether it’s in a purpose-built open-air theatre like the Globe or a pop-up theatre that you might find in one of the Oxford College gardens during the summer, you can feel the excitement even before the play begins,” says Trevor Walker, Professor of Drama at St Mary’s University in London. One of Britain’s most historic open-air theatre venues, Shakespeare’s Globe in London, is likely to be the very first theatre where the playwright’s King Henry V urged his battalions: “Once more unto the breach… Or close the wall up with our English dead.” Built in 1599 to house performances of Shakespeare’s own playing company, The Lord Chamberlain’s Men, the original three-storey theatre, with its rush straw area known as ‘the pit’ – where the poorest spectators known as ‘stinkards’ would stand cramped together like sardines – burnt down in 1613 during a performance of Henry VIII. Luckily there were no serious casualties from the blaze, which was caused by a misfired theatrical canon, but spectators recorded that one man’s breeches caught fire and had to be doused with a jug of ale. Rebuilt a year later, then closed, along with countless theatres across the country, during the reign of Puritanism, the Globe was finally pulled down in 1644, 28 years after the death of the Bard with whom it is synonymous. Carefully recreated in 1997, the modern Globe theatre, founded by US actor and director Sam Wanamaker, stands close to the site of Shakespeare’s original playhouse: its circular yard, thrust stage and tiered seats closely resemble the original open-air theatre built in the 16th century.

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Top left: The Comedy of Errors at the Globe Theatre, London This image: The Minack Theatre, Cornwall

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The Minack Theatre, built in the 1930s, is a glorious amphitheatre with dramatic views over Cornwall’s rugged coastline

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Sister Act, Kilworth House Theatre 2014 Sister Act, Kilworth House Theatre 2014

Opening 2015 SeasonatatKilworth KilworthHouse HouseTheatre Theatreisisthe the sparkling sparkling Opening thethe 2015 Season June –– 19 19thth July. July. Olivier Award winning‘Singin’ ‘Singin’InInThe TheRain’ Rain’from from33rdrdJune Olivier Award winning This light-hearted spoof, set in Hollywood in the 1920’s, is packed full This light-hearted spoof, set in Hollywood in the 1920’s, is packed full of charm, romance and tinseltown glamour and features all the songs of charm, romance and tinseltown glamour and features all the songs from glorious MGMscore scoreincluding including‘Good ‘GoodMorning’; Morning’;‘Make ‘Make ‘em ‘em from thethe glorious MGM Laugh’; ‘You Stepped Out Of A Dream’; ‘You Are My Lucky Star’ Laugh’; ‘You Stepped Out Of A Dream’; ‘You Are My Lucky Star’ show-stopping‘Singin’ ‘Singin’InInThe TheRain’. Rain’. andand thethe show-stopping The second productionfor forthis thissummer summerisisthe theall-singing, all-singing,all-dancing all-dancing The second production th musical comedy ‘Legally Blonde’ which runs from 20 th August musicalth comedy ‘Legally Blonde’ which runs from 20 August – 20 September. Winner of no less than 7 major awards, it is – 20th September. Winner of no less than 7 major awards, it is the funniest and most fabulous musical around. Perennially perky, the funniest and most fabulous musical around. Perennially perky, University student Elle Woods can handle anything, so when her University student Elle Woods can handle anything, so when her boyfriend Warner dumps her, she decides to follow him to Harvard boyfriend Warner dumps her, she decides to follow him to Harvard Law School. Determined to win back her man, she learns that it’s Law School. Determined to win back her man, she learns that it’s so much better to be smart – case closed! so much better to be smart – case closed!

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20TH AUG – 20TH SEPT TH TH SEPT TICKETS from 20 £30 - £38AUG – 20 BOX OFFICE 01858 881 939 Opening hours: Mon - Fri, 10am - 4pm TICKETS from £30 - £38 OR BOOK ONLINE AT www.kilworthhousetheatre.co.uk BOX OFFICE 01858 881 939 Opening hours: Mon - Fri, 10am - 4pm KILWORTH HOUSE HOTEL & THEATRE LUTTERWORTH ROAD OR BOOK ONLINELEICESTERSHIRE AT www.kilworthhousetheatre.co.uk NORTH KILWORTH LE17 6JE KILWORTH HOUSE HOTEL & THEATRE LUTTERWORTH ROAD NORTH KILWORTH LEICESTERSHIRE LE17 6JE

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Explore Britain

A performance at the open-air clifftop Minack Theatre, near Land's End, Cornwall

“When you come here you can really imagine what it must have been like to watch plays in Shakespeare’s time,” says actor and theatre director, Dan Philpott. A short walk from London’s Baker Street, the Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre was founded in 1932 by actors Robert Atkins and Sydney Carroll. The oldest professional and permanent outdoor theatre in Britain, this stunning stage is surrounded by lush parkland and fringed by one of London’s longest theatre bars. Notable al fresco performances staged here include Romeo and Juliet, starring Sherlock actor Benedict Cumberbatch, and Sweet Mister Shakespeare, starring Dame Judi Dench. “We are so lucky because London has so many outdoor theatres,” says Philpott. There are plenty of spectacular venues outside of the capital, too, including the glorious Willow Globe in Llandrindod Wells, Powys, Wales. Part of an outreach project organised by Shakespeare Link, a group

The life project of amateur thespian Rowena Cade, the Minack Theatre was made from driftwood that was dragged up from the beach www.britain-magazine.com

established in 1994 to bring the Bard’s work to smaller venues, the willows that gave their name to this organic theatre were planted in 2003. Now one of the country’s largest constructions made of willows – and almost certainly the only willow-bound theatre space in the world – the mature trees of the theatre stand in a woven circle around a low wooden stage, forming an intimate space where 150 spectators can enjoy musicals and theatrical performances from April to September. Another of Britain’s celebrated outdoor venues, the Minack Theatre, built in the 1930s, is a glorious Greek-style amphitheatre set in a semicircle high on a bluff, with dramatic views over Cornwall’s coastline where dolphins are frequently spotted during performances. It is the life project of Rowena Cade, an amateur thespian who owned a house here, and the original stage was made from driftwood dragged up from the beach. The original theatre’s do-it-yourself spirit meant that car headlights were used to light the first public performance. Cade was passionate about the project and continued adding wings to the theatre, with the aid of her faithful gardener, until she died in 1983. “We often saw Ms Cade single-handedly hauling beams up from the beach below to build extra seating,” one contemporary remembers. A couple of counties away, Dorset is home to the Brownsea Island Open Air Theatre, whose members lay BRITAIN

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PHOTO: © TOBY MELVILLE/CORBIS

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Explore Britain

Clockwise, from above: Larmer Tree Gardens is home to the Singing Theatre; Kilworth House Theatre; The Willow Globe, Powys, Wales

on boats to carry their spectators over to see performances. Set on the spectacularly rugged island where Robert Baden-Powell held his first Boy Scout camp in 1907, the theatre was created by members of a local acting company in the 1960s. In a magazine article written to commemorate the theatre’s 50th anniversary, Keith Rawlings, one of the company’s original members, remembered how cast members would perform in costumes that were clammy from the previous night’s downpour. But as Trevor Walker

comments, bad weather doesn’t seem to deter either actors or the spectators. “Quite simply it’s the buzz you get from the audience that makes open-air theatre so enjoyable – even in the rain,” he laughs. Set in a beautiful wooded glade by the lake in the grounds of Kilworth House Hotel in Leicestershire, is a secretive yet well-accommodating theatre that can seat up to 550 patrons in tiered seats. This being Britain, huge sail-like canopies protect the audience from the inevitable adverse weather and there’s a well-stocked bar so you can make an evening of it. In fact, why not book in for a pre-show meal in the elaborately decorated Victorian Orangery of the hotel, or better still, pack a picnic and find a quiet spot in the grounds. Another lesser-known theatre is that of Larmer Tree Gardens, an old hunting ground of King John, which was later inherited by General Augustus Lane Fox, who was forced to change his name to Pitt Rivers, under the condition of his inheritance, and set about creating the Victorian pleasure grounds, which include the Singing Theatre – apparently just one of two in the world – which still stages lively performances today.

 For more information on the history of Britain's theatres and the best new shows go to www.britain-magazine.com

PACK A PICNIC

PHOTO: © SANDRA VON RIEKHOFF

Book tickets, grab your hamper, and make your way to one of these great outdoor venues. THE GLOBE, LONDON Book in advance at this popular summer venue. Arrive early and take one of the theatre’s guided tours to learn about life as a playwright in Shakespeare’s time, and how the modern venue was built. Open from May to September. Prices start at £5 for standing tickets. www.shakespearesglobe.com REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE, LONDON Tickets to Britain’s oldest professional outdoor theatre sell out fast, with exciting productions such as William Golding's Lord of the Flies and J M Barrie's Peter Pan. Make sure you get there early on sunny days to get a seat in the shade. www.openairtheatre.com THE MINACK THEATRE, CORNWALL A visit to the Minack Theatre is an event in itself, so pack a picnic of strawberries and clotted cream. Open from April to September, it hosts musicals, children’s shows and classical theatre, but wrap up well because the wind really howls in this high-flung spot. www.minack.com

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THE WILLOW GLOBE, POWYS, WALES This mini version of Shakespeare’s Globe hosts performances from April to September in a truly magical and intimate setting. About a third of the size of its London counterpart, the theatre is a hidden gem. www.shakespearelink.co.uk/willow-globe BROWNSEA OPEN AIR THEATRE, DORSET This venue celebrates more than 50 years of ‘Shakespeare on an Island’ this year, so it’s an ideal time to visit. Boats leave for the island from Poole Quay from 5pm onwards and it’s worth going early in order to have time to explore this rugged little isle before the show begins. www.brownsea-theatre.co.uk

KILWORTH HOUSE THEATRE, LEICESTERSHIRE Enjoy a spot of outdoor theatre amid the magnificent grounds of the Kilworth Estate, set in a magical-looking glade. Kilworth House Theatre – now in its ninth season – prides itself on staging musical theatre of a standard rarely seen outside of London’s West End. www.kilworthhousetheatre.co.uk LARMER TREE, WILTSHIRE There are lots of lovely events that take place in these Victorian pleasure gardens every year, including one or two festivals. However, we think the Singing Theatre is the best way to experience all the drama. www.larmertree.co.uk

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into Fort William in the late morning. On arrival, make your way to the Nevis Bank Inn for an unforgettable two-night stay. Explore Fort William, the second largest settlement in the Scottish Highlands, nestled at the foot of Ben Nevis at the head of Loch Linnhe. Soak up the atmosphere and spectacular natural beauty of the surrounding areas and visit the West Highland Museum for some insight into the region’s fascinating history. Next board a train along the West Highland Line to Mallaig. Regularly celebrated as one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world, the train passes stunning scenery. Travel around the banks of Loch Eil and Loch Eilt; catching a glimpse of Ben Nevis as you head towards the Caledonian Canal. Gaze at ‘Neptune’s Staircase’, a succession of locks, before travelling over the Glenfinnan Viaduct. Passengers will recognise this segment of the trip as it was made famous in the Harry Potter films. After staying overnight at the West Highland Hotel, Mallaig, you will travel back to Fort William,

where you will connect onto a sleeper train that takes you back over the border and through England towards London. Passengers travelling with Railbookers will enjoy the same fantastic amenities discovered on the outbound trip, so relax and sleep comfortably as you head back to England’s capital. Arrive in London the next morning and continue with your onward journey. If you’d like to head beyond the UK, Railbookers can help there too, offering specially selected holidays all over Europe and beyond.

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CAPITAL

VIEWS For glorious vistas of London, from vertigo-inducing views from the top of the Shard to romantic panoramas from Hampstead Heath, head to the city’s best vantage points WORDS FLORA HUGHES-ONSLOW

London

THE LONDON EYE Just one revolution on board the giant Ferris wheel, the London Eye, will enable you to view a remarkable stretch of the capital. At its peak the wheel is 442ft (135m) high and you can see for 25 miles in every direction (weather permitting), from your comfortable glass pod. It offers plenty of packages for special occasions, from afternoon tea to a chocolate-tasting experience or a Champagne reception. www.londoneye.com

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London

THE SHARD While a little pricey to get up there, the view from the Shard, London’s magnificent 87-storey skyscraper, is certainly impressive. With the UK’s highest public viewing galleries, 787ft (240m) above street level, visitors can enjoy 360-degree views for up to 40 miles. Tickets allow you 30 minutes at the top, plus a weather guarantee, meaning that in case of bad weather you can return another time for free. The Shard frequently hosts fun events across its various floors, including yoga classes, silent discos and, more recently, a Fortnum & Mason High Tea Experience. For the latter, from 23 June until 8 September, guests can indulge in a ‘Hamperling’ filled with a selection of afternoon tea treats including finger sandwiches, scones, and Fortnum’s signature Royal Blend tea.

PHOTOS: © TRAVEL PIX COLLECTION/AWL IMAGES LTD/ALAN COPSON/CULTURA TRAVEL/RICHARD SEYMOUR/GETTY IMAGES

www.theviewfromtheshard.com

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London

HAMPSTEAD HEATH Whatever the weather, the untamed meadows, ponds and woodlands of Hampstead Heath offer an enchanting escape from the sprawling city. Spanning 791 acres from Hampstead to Highgate in north London, it has been the inspiration behind much art and literature and is home to the beautiful former stately home, Kenwood House. Now managed by English Heritage, Kenwood and its grounds often play host to outdoor summer concerts and exhibitions. The swimming ponds are

perfect for cooling off on hot summer days and the cityscape in the distance forms a wonderful backdrop for picnics. In the southeast corner of the Heath, Parliament Hill boasts a panorama of London so impressive it is protected by law. On a clear day, you can see almost all of the capital’s major landmarks, from the ‘Gherkin’ and the Shard to majestic St Paul’s. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk

The Monument stands exactly 202ft (62m) from where the Great Fire of London started on Pudding Lane

THE MONUMENT

PHOTOS: © ALEX SEGRE/ALAMY/ALISTAIR LAMING

Built between 1671 and 1677 to commemorate the Great Fire of London of 1666 and to celebrate the rebuilding of the City, the Monument boasts prime position as a Central London vantage point near the northern end of London Bridge. It is the tallest isolated stone column in the world, at 202ft (62m) high, and is in close proximity to the spot in Pudding Lane on which the Great Fire is believed to have started. Visitors to this grand, fluted Doric column, designed by Sir Christopher Wren with a gilded urn of fire on the top, can climb up the interior to the observation gallery to enjoy a splendid urban vista. Thanks to an installation by video artist Chris Meigh-Andrews, even those not keen to ascend the 311 steps to the top can enjoy the views via a live stream of time-lapse images 24 hours a day, screened on a display near the base of the Monument. www.themonument.info

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TOWER BRIDGE

ST PANCRAS STATION London’s St Pancras International Station, with its grand neo-Gothic façade, also provides one of the city’s most impressive views, from within. A beautiful construction with gracefully curved arches and light pouring in, it is the result of a massive redevelopment that has made the view at St Pancras a must-see. www.stpancras.com

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black cabs whir beneath you and perhaps even catch the bascules being raised. You can also gaze outwards at the Tower of London, St Paul’s and hundreds of other landmarks while learning, via the exhibition, how and why the bridge was built and the intricacies of all its inner workings. www.towerbridge.org.uk

SKY GARDEN With three venues to choose from – Fenchurch Seafood Bar & Grill, the Sky Pod Bar and the Darwin Brasserie – at the top of 20 Fenchurch Street in the City of London, Sky Garden offers some of the best views in the capital. Book ahead to enjoy a cocktail or two with a magnificent river and city backdrop. www.skygarden.london

ROYAL OBSERVATORY GREENWICH High up on a hill in Greenwich Park, overlooking the River Thames, the Royal Observatory is one of the best spots to watch the sun setting over London (and for star-gazing at night). It’s also the home of Greenwich Mean Time; you can stand on the Meridian Line here – the dividing point between Earth’s eastern and western hemispheres. www.rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory

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PHOTO: © VISITBRITAIN/MARKTHOMASSON

Arguably the most famous bridge in the world, and certainly one of London’s most instantly recognisable landmarks, Tower Bridge recently received a £4 million facelift. The now revamped Tower Bridge Exhibition offers fantastic bird's-eye views of London life from its new, high-level glass walkways. Set 137ft (42m) above the River Thames, you can watch the traffic of red London buses and

Spies

SECRETS &

Bletchley Park in Buckinghamshire might not seem like the most likely of spy bases but it was here that Alan Turing and his team broke the code that helped the Allied forces win the Second World War? WORDS CHRIS FAUTLEY

T

he weather during the first half of August 1938 had been hot and thundery, but by the time Captain Ridley arrived at a country house in Buckinghamshire later in the month with an entourage, it had turned cool and fine. To the casual observer, conditions must have seemed ideal for a shooting party. The house was set in 581 acres of parkland and gardens that included an arboretum and several hothouses. Completed by 1881, the red brick building boasted fine architectural features such as decorative plaster ceilings and fireplaces; its ballroom had wooden columns and arches, while the hallway was adorned with painted glass. However, it wasn’t the architecture, nor for that matter the shooting, that interested Captain Ridley. The Bletchley Park estate had been acquired in 1937 by a development

consortium, the aim being to demolish the house and replace it with a housing estate. That plan, however, was curtailed when in May 1938 Admiral Hugh Sinclair, Head of the Secret Intelligence Service (now MI6), purchased the house and much of the estate. The intention of Sinclair (known as ‘C’), was to use it as a base for the Government Code and Cipher School: with the clouds of war brewing ominously, the ‘shooting party’ was effectively making a dummy run for moving from its London headquarters. In August 1939, with conflict all but inevitable, the full move took place. Some 200 staff were involved; by the war’s end that number had ballooned to 7,000. The majority took lodgings locally, Woburn Abbey among the requisitioned buildings. The mission was clear: to crack enemy ciphers and provide the Allies with intelligence. www.britain-magazine.com

Estate Secrets

This picture: Bletchley Park, Buckinghamshire. Facing page: The Colossus machine, which helped code breakers to garner vital intelligence

PHOTOS: © JACK ENGLISH/2014 THE WEINSTEIN COMPANY/BLETCHLEY PARK/HERITAGE IMAGE PARTNERSHIP/ALAMY

Left to right: Code breakers hard at work in Hut 6; Alan Turing; Bletchley Park is located in an idyllic rural setting

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Estate Secrets

Above: Huts 6 and 3 celebrate VE Day. Left: Benedict Cumberbatch stars as Alan Turing in 2014's The Imitation Game

Initially, senior staff were based in the mansion, but it soon became apparent that the premises were wholly inadequate for the burgeoning contingent of operatives required to run the facility effectively. A programme of hut-building commenced in earnest. These were either single or double storey, invariably comprising a lengthy passageway with a dozen or more spurs. The most important huts were built of reinforced concrete with a solid concrete roof. Each section was assigned a letter or number, and a dedicated role. Hut 10, for example, accommodated the Air Intelligence Section; Block B, originally used by the Naval Section, was the first to be built and Block H was the last, being completed in late 1944. Most of Germany’s coded messages were encrypted using machines, the best-known of which was Enigma, a piece of apparatus similar to a typewriter. The sender keyed in a message, then scrambled it using rotors. To decode it, the recipient had to know the precise settings. These changed daily, and with 159 million million million possibilities, the challenge faced by staff at Bletchley– or ‘Station X’ – was huge.

Since it dealt largely with Enigma codes, Block D at Bletchley Park became one of the most important departments; Block G housed the code breakers, while Huts 11, 11A and 11B accommodated what was known as the Bombe Section. The Bombe was a decoding machine built specifically to crack Enigma: the buildings housing it were blast and splinter proof. By all accounts, working conditions at Station X were good. The general consensus was that the food was outstanding: wartime rationing seemed far away. It did, however, have a reputation for being extremely cold in winter. In 2013, a stash of paper known as the Banbury sheets, used in the deciphering of Enigma, was discovered in the ceiling and walls of Hut 6 where it had been used as draught-proofing – the hut had frugal heating and no toilet facilities. Upon the outbreak of war it soon became obvious that there were insufficient code breakers at Station X to undertake the task in hand. The work was, hardly surprisingly, particularly suited to mathematicians and academics. It also appealed to those with an enquiring mind

The Enigma’s settings changed daily – there were 159 million million million possibilities

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Estate Secrets

PHOTOS: © ANDREW NICHOLSON/ALAMY/BLETCHLEY PARK/CHRIS HOWES/WILD PLACES PHOTOGRAPHY

Top to bottom: Bletchley Park huts seen from the lake; rebuild of the Bombe at Bletchley Park, which helped decode German Enigma messages

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and who were competent at tussling with the intricacies of language. This did not go unnoticed by the War Office – many of Bletchley Park’s finest appointments were cruciverbalists – crossword addicts. Early in 1942, The Daily Telegraph – publisher of one of Britain’s best-regarded cryptic crosswords – printed correspondence that said the puzzle was becoming too easy and could be cracked in mere minutes. The editor, spurred on by the donation of a cash prize by a mysterious individual named W A J Gavin, decided to see if this was so. A competition was held in the newspaper’s Fleet Street offices, whereby contenders had 12 minutes to crack a 36-clue cryptic crossword – 20 seconds for each clue. Five of the contenders were successful. About a month later, by strange coincidence, some of the competitors were contacted by the War Office who, without The Daily Telegraph’s knowledge, had been keeping a watching brief all along. It was no coincidence that several were subsequently recruited to work at Bletchley Park. From the outset, the Allies had enjoyed success in

deciphering German army and air force communications – they already had some knowledge of Enigma before the war started. However, there was a crucial weak link: naval communications remained virtually impenetrable. The havoc being exacted by U-boats was increasing; there was a fear that it could tip the balance of the war. The first breakthrough came in June 1941, when mathematician Alan Turing and a group of colleagues finally had success in deciphering the U-boat codes. It was Turing who had, a year earlier and with help from fellow mathematician, Gordon Welchman, developed the Bombe – a complex piece of apparatus that reputedly had more than a million soldered connections – as depicted in the 2014 film The Imitation Game, starring Benedict Cumberbatch and Keira Knightley, though Welchman’s role is not mentioned. There was always a danger that Station X could become The Enigma machine looked similar to a typewriter – any intelligence gleaned was known by the code word ‘Ultra’

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Lords of the Isles

Viking Treasure

July 27 to August 8, 2015

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The island kingdom of Viking and Gaelic rulers of Western Scotland in the Middle Ages. The isles of Lewis, Harris, Skye, Mull, Iona, and the rugged northwest coast – some of the world’s best-known archaeological and geological sites, including the Calanais Standing Stones, Carloway Broch, and the Northwest Highlands Geopark. Premium tickets for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

Orkney and Shetland – archaeological wonders surrounded by remote natural island beauty. On Shetland visit Mousa Broch, one of Europe’s best preserved prehistoric structures. Visit Orkney, rich in Neolithic landscape including Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, MaesHowe, and the ongoing dig at the Ness of Brodgar. Includes premium tickets for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

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Estate Secrets BEHIND THE SCENES THE HOUSE AND GROUNDS Following an £8m restoration project, Bletchley Park is now an interactive heritage site, with a new visitor centre and refreshed exhibits such as Bletchley Park: Rescued and Restored, which includes a time capsule and wartime notes found stuffed in hut roof cracks, including the only known example of used Banbury sheets, a system devised by Alan Turing to help find the daily-changing Enigma settings. Visitors can explore the Victorian house and grounds and listen to atmospheric soundscapes, which include snatches of conversation, music, laughter and noises that are reminiscent of the 1940s wartime era. The grounds have been freshly landscaped, with reminders of where the long-gone Huts 2 and 9 once stood and the tennis courts have also been restored to grass, as they would have been in late 1940 and early 1941.

too successful, making it obvious to the Germans that their codes had been compromised. This situation was neutralised by feeding misinformation to the enemy, but there remained valuable intelligence that could not be exploited. One rumour suggests, for example, that Churchill may have known in advance of the bombing of Coventry in November 1940, yet was powerless to act for fear that Hitler would learn of Britain’s advantage. By 1943 the Allies were enjoying limited success in cracking the German code – in its prime, Bletchley Park was decoding more than 4,000 messages daily – but the Bombe machine struggled to keep up with an even more complex German coding machine, nicknamed ‘the Tunny’. It was in early 1944 that the code was comprehensively broken thanks to the work of a Post Office engineer called Thomas (Tommy) Flowers. Named the Colossus, his code-breaking machine was the world’s first programmable computer. By the end of the war, there was a new enemy: the Soviet Union. The work of

Bletchley Park was far from done and it became vital that the Soviets should remain ignorant of what had happened at Station X. Nevertheless, with the gradual thawing of relations, Bletchley Park finally closed as an intelligence facility in 1987. By 1991 there were, ironically, again plans to demolish it and build a housing estate. Fortunately, thanks to growing appreciation for its work, demolition was averted and it is now a visitor centre. Although the work of Alan Turing has been acknowledged in recent years, most of Bletchley’s staff were unassuming men and women. A few found fame – including novelist Angus Wilson, and Roy Jenkins, who became Home Secretary in 1965. The Duchess of Cambridge’s grandmother also worked here. The newly revamped visitor centre is a fitting memorial to the unsung heroes who shortened the war by at least two years. They were, as Churchill observed, “The geese who laid the golden eggs”.

Rumour has it Churchill knew in advance about the Coventry bombing in 1940 but was powerless to act

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EXHIBITION In the ballroom and billiard rooms of the mansion, a major new exhibition celebrates the 2014 film The Imitation Game in the very room where the bar scenes were filmed. Visitors can see costumes worn by Benedict Cumberbatch and Keira Knightley, a German Enigma machine, a replica of the prototype Bombe machine and a copy of the crossword puzzle published in The Daily Telegraph newspaper. The exhibition runs until 1 November 2015 and admission is included in the general ticket price. TICKETS Admission price to Bletchley Park entitles you to an Annual Season Ticket, which gives unlimited access for one year. Admission prices are as follows: Adults: £16.75; concessions: £14.75; children (12-16): £10; under-12s: free. Check the website for opening times: www.bletchleypark.org.uk

PHOTOS: © WPA POOL/GETTY IMAGES/STEVE VIDLER/CORBIS

Above: The Duchess of Cambridge listens to a recorded message at Bletchley. Below: Alan Turing statue at the museum

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Bletchley Park is open daily and visitors can explore the iconic huts that housed codebreakers such as Alan Turing, whose work is said to have helped shorten the Second World War by two years. Turing was the subject of 2014 film The Imitation Game. So as interest continues to grow, what better time to see this museum? For more information on the competition visit www.greatlittlebreaks.com/win-bletchley. TERMS AND CONDITIONS

Closing date for entries is 31 August 2015. Winner will be contacted within 48 hours of the competition closing. Prize is to be redeemed by 30 November 2015; subject to availability. By entering you agree to receive exclusive offers from Great Little Breaks. For Ts&Cs visit www.britain-magazine.com/bletchley-park-competition

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nce Britain’s best-kept secret, Bletchley Park in Buckinghamshire is now a heritage site and vibrant tourist attraction. The historic estate has seen an increased number of visitors in recent years – as many as 195,000 people visited in 2014. Readers of BRITAIN can enjoy two tickets to Bletchley Park with Great Little Breaks, plus an overnight bed and breakfast stay at the 4-star Hilton Milton Keynes Hotel. Great Little Breaks is an expert in organising three to five-star accommodation and short breaks throughout the UK and is now offering this exclusive chance to discover Bletchley Park. Located just 10 minutes from the park, the Hilton Milton Keynes offers facilities including a gym and an indoor swimming pool as well as a business centre. Guest rooms are spacious and comfortable with wifi, while Queen Deluxe Family rooms also feature a seating area with sofa, and luxurious bathrobe and slippers. Upon arrival at your hotel enjoy a complimentary bottle of wine. Dinner is served in the Horizon’s Restaurant, which serves classic British cuisine. Guests can also sample international favourites in a bright dining room with modern décor.

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Scandalous

ACCUSATIONS

In the first part of a new series exploring unbelievable stories, we investigate a real-life thriller that captivated late-Victorian and early-Edwardian society WORDS SALLY COFFEY

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n 1897 a widow applied for the exhumation of the grave of her late father-in-law. Her reason? She believed his body didn’t lie there at all but that he had faked his death to do his legitimate heirs, (and her son), out of their fortune, favouring his secret double life. The extraordinary claims of Anna Maria Druce led to a protracted legal battle between the 6th Duke of Portland and several pretenders to his throne who argued that he should not have inherited his cousin’s title and estate, as his predecessor had secretly fathered several children, one of whom must surely be his rightful heir. In The Dead Duke, His Secret Wife and the Missing Corpse, Piu Marie Eatwell explores the Druce-Portland case, which was one of the most drawn-out and tangled legal sagas of the era and caused a media sensation. Central to the case was the accusation that the 5th Duke of Portland, who died in 1879, had led a double life as a department store owner and had killed off his alter ego in 1864 before retreating into virtual obscurity.

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Thomas Charles Druce, owner of the Baker In March 1898 Druce stated her claim in Street Bazaar, was also the 5th Duke of court to the incredulous Chancellor Tristram: Portland and that he had fathered several “If I understand you correctly, Mrs children with a lady called Annie May (three Druce,” he said, “you are requesting me to of whom were born out of wedlock) before grant you a faculty for the exhumation of your father-in-law’s coffin, which was buried growing tired of his double life, faking his in consecrated ground at Highgate Cemetery. death, and returning to his role as the Duke of Portland. Anna Maria “And the reason for this asserted that her husband Walter peculiar request is that you say BUY THE BOOK was the first legitimate child of he did not die 34 years ago in Thomas and Annie May and so December 1864, as everyone The Dead Duke, His Secret Wife her son was heir to the dukedom. believes, and indeed, was and the Missing Corpse by Piu It was a story that captivated represented by his funeral at Marie Eatwell (£16.99 Head the country, from the poor that time. Your assertion is of Zeus) delves into this working classes to the dizzy that the funeral in 1864 was a extraordinary story in detail. heights of the aristocracy. charade, and that in fact your www.headofzeus.com “Mrs Druce”, announced the father-in-law carried on living Daily Mail, in secret under an assumed Mail “is now the most interesting woman in England. identity.” The woman She occupies more space in the continued to look ahead newspapers than is claimed by unwaveringly. “Yes, the Queen of England.” my lord,” she replied. “That is Perhaps most interesting of exactly what I seek.” all was the fact that the In her claim, Anna Maria supposed trickster was Druce said her father-in-law, www.britain-magazine.com

Tall Tales

descended from one of the best-known figures of the Elizabethan age, Bess of Hardwick, who built some of the finest buildings in England, many of which still stand today, such as Chatsworth House. Meanwhile, the 6th Duke, who decades after he inherited the title was subject to these lurid claims, was also well connected – he even entertained Queen Victoria and Edward, Prince of Wales, at his aristocratic home of Welbeck Abbey, Nottinghamshire, which King Henry VIII had handed to his administrator Richard Whalley of Screveton following the Dissolution of the Monasteries. There were also links between the two men and some of the most revered people of the day – Charles Dickens was said to be a close friend of Druce’s, though his family strenuously denied it. The 5th Duke of Portland was indeed an odd character; obsessive about privacy – he mainly travelled at night and in his carriage he always had the silk blind tightly drawn. To further hide himself from the world he created a web of tunnels underneath www.britain-magazine.com

Welbeck, which “crisscrossed beneath the abbey in a vast labyrinth, like a Nottinghamshire Palace of Knossos.” Druce, it seemed, had fathered many children – he was still married to his first wife and had several children by her when he set up home with Annie May – and as more and more people came forward with a claim to his fortunes, so the story developed. There were a few things that people said pointed to the dual identity, not least the men’s eating habits: “Long averse to red meat, the Duke in later years took to dining on chicken alone – in the morning and evening only, and never at lunchtime. This was, of course, exactly the reverse of Druce, who ate only at lunchtime (and also disliked red meat), and it therefore became another argument to support the idea that the two men were one and the same person.” Of course the similarities didn’t stop there. There were witnesses who came forward to say that they knew that the two men shared an identity; it was almost like an open secret.

Photos of the two men were also circulated – one of which was an uncontested image of Thomas Charles Druce with a bushy beard, and a second, said to have been taken from a portrait of the 5th Duke (the original had been destroyed in a fire) showing what appeared to be an uncanny resemblance. The two men shared certain physical traits: the 5th Duke suffered from a skin disease that gave him jaundice. Druce, likewise, had this complexion, and some of his children and grandchildren were said to be similarly afflicted. Druce and the Duke were both also about five feet nine inches tall, sturdily built and around 13 stone. Did the Duke lead a double life as Thomas Charles Druce? You’ll have to read the book to find out, but one thing is for sure – the court hearings and investigations revealed a dark underbelly of lies and secrets beneath the genteel façade of late-Victorian England and it makes for compelling reading.

8 For more weird and wonderful tales from our shores visit www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN

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PHOTOS: © THE DEAD DUKE, HIS SECRET WIFE AND THE MISSING CORPSE BY PIU MARIE EATWELL/WWW.BRIDGEMANART.COM

Facing page, clockwise from top left: The North Lodge and tunnel entrance of Welbeck Abbey; underground tunnel at the abbey; Annie May. This page, left to right: A photograph of Druce; a portrait said to be of the 5th Duke showing an uncanny resemblance; caricature of the Duke from Figaro magazine

Holiday Hideaways

OMANCE R OF THE LAKES What could be more romantic than an escape to the Lake District, the place that inspired both Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter? Here are some of our favourite romantic havens WORDS GILLY PICKUP

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t 885 square miles, the Lake District is England’s largest national park. Where better to wander lonely as a cloud, stride across hills, mess about in a boat, cycle the trails or simply relax and soak up the views? There is an incredible variety of camera-ready scenery here, from rugged hillsides and woodlands rich in Atlantic mosses, ferns and lichen, to glassy lakes and fells where ravens and birds of prey are a common sight. This is one of the best places in Britain to experience the great outdoors, though it has to be said the weather is unpredictable; locals say it is not unusual to experience all four seasons in one day. However, look at it another way – rain showers and racing clouds only serve to emphasise the grandeur of the scenery, and as hill-walking oracle Alfred Wainwright famously said: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.” Whatever the weather, a good place to embark on a walking tour of the Upper Eden Valley is the market town of Kirkby Stephen, situated about 30 miles from Kendal: Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk passes through the town. The Eden Valley offers walks of all levels, along old railways and nature trails, to routes via ruined castles, stone circles and ancient settlements. For something tougher, climb to the enigmatic Nine Standards, a line of nine drystone cairns. Why are they here? No-one knows – their original purpose is shrouded in mystery. One good place to stay in the area was once a key building in a long-gone community: Waitby School, which dates from 1680 and was built on Waitby Fell. The five-star property is now a cottage that stands alone in the Eden Valley, with far-reaching views and distant sightings of

steam trains on the Settle to Carlisle Railway. The railway has been restored with advice from English Heritage. The entrance, through the original school cloakroom, leads to open-plan living accommodation. Original features include the school bell, double front doors, wood-panelled walls and even the boys’ outside lavatory, complete with wooden seat – but don’t worry, there are modern bathrooms inside too. This year marks the 200th anniversary of the publication of Romantic poet William Wordsworth’s poem Daffodils and Grasmere is where the poet used to stroll the lakeshore path in search of inspiration. He adored the area and described Grasmere as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”. At that time Wordsworth lived in Dove Cottage, which happens to be right across the road from the Daffodil Hotel & Spa, a great place to lay your hat and follow in Wordsworth’s footsteps. Once known as The Prince of Wales Hotel – a nod to a visit in the 19th century from the future King Edward VII – the hotel has established itself as one of the Lake District’s most desirable places to stay and its bedrooms have stunning views overlooking the lake. The spa has a thermal pool, steam room, sauna and tepidarium; perfect for relaxing after a day’s walking or climbing. Alternatively, pay a visit to Poet’s View Cottage, the charming former residence of Wordsworth’s grandson. A stay at Old Mill Barn, a detached watermill conversion in Penrith overlooking great swathes of countryside, is sure to nourish the spirit. The barn is just outside the village of Gamblesby – an ideal location for exploring the North Pennines and Hadrian’s Wall.

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PHOTOS: © PAUL HEINRICH/ALAMY/CLIVE BOURSNELL/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/CUMBRIAN COTTAGES/ VISITBRITAIN/CHARLIE WAITE/ANNA STOWE LANDSCAPES UK/ALAMY

Grasmere is where William Wordsworth used to stroll the lakeshore in search of inspiration, calling it “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”

Clockwise, from left: Lindeth Howe, on Lake Windermere; Derwent Water to the south of Keswick is one of the Lake District's largest bodies of water; the view from Derwent Water looking towards Castle Crag. Below, left: The luxurious Daffodil Hotel & Spa

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See the Lakes.. Better by Goat Northern England’s Leading Tour Company Tours of the Lake District, North York Moors, Yorkshire Dales & Hadrian’s Walls Short Break &Holiday Itineraries Exclusive and Bespoke Itineraries available

Contact +44 (0)15394 45161 mountain-goat.com yorkshiredaytours.com [email protected]

LINDETH HOWE COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL

LINDETH HOWE COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL

PREVIOUSLY OWNED BY FAMOUS CHILDREN’S AUTHOR BEATRIX POTTER AND SET IN 6 ACRES OF PRIVATE GARDENS, OVERLOOKING LAKE WINDERMERE AND THE HILLS BEYOND. AWARDED 4 STARS AND 2 ROSETTES BY THE AA FOR ITS FANTASTIC CUISINE. WITH FACILITIES INCLUDING AN INDOOR SWIMMING POOL AND SAUNA. ENJOY A RELAXING BREAK IN THIS COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL STEEPED IN HISTORY. PICTURES AND LETTERS FRAMED ON THE WALLS FROM WHEN THE POTTER FAMILY STAYED AND LIVED HERE.

78%

Lindeth Drive, Longtail Hill, Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3JF Telephone +44 (0) 15394 45759 Facsimile +44 (0) 15394 46368 [email protected]

www.lindeth-howe.co.uk

Holiday Hideaways

This picture: Lindeth Howe Hotel.

PHOTO: © CHLOEIMAGES/ALAMY

Below: Peter Rabbit draws in visitors at Beatrix Potter World, Windermere

A set of 18th-century stocks on the village green here somehow look as if they’ve slipped through a time warp. Last time they were used was to punish someone who had stolen a turnip. Cosy-down in this hide-and-chic retreat, which comes with bells and whistles, including a fully-equipped kitchen, TV and wifi. An open-plan living area includes kitchen, dining and seating area with wood-burning stove, and a separate mezzanine. Another unusual bolthole worth considering is Keswick Boat House, which has enviable views across Derwent Water – indeed the property actually overhangs the water. Sit on the balcony, pour yourself a glass of wine and simply watch the boats come and go on the jetty as you enjoy some precious moments of unhurried bliss. Windermere is England’s largest lake and the surrounding area, cobwebbed with walking trails, has been drawing tourists since trains first came here with the opening of the rail line in 1847. Lindeth Howe Country House Hotel, once children’s author Beatrix Potter’s home, has plenty of bragging rights, with guest rooms offering superlative views over the lovely lake, sprawling garden and woodland. All en-suite rooms come with the usual comforts, while deluxe rooms, include a DVD player, chilled water and extra toiletries. To relax at the end of a busy day’s sightseeing, there is a heated indoor pool, sauna and fitness room. Nearby, the World of Beatrix Potter Attraction brings to life magical scenes from the author’s books. Children of all ages can enjoy Jemima Puddle-Duck’s glade and the Peter Rabbit Garden, offering a glimpse of the cabbages where Peter lost a shoe and the garden gate under which he squeezed while trying to escape Mr McGregor. www.britain-magazine.com

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A luxurious Lake District Escape With 10 individually interior designed Suite’s and Rooms Candlelit Restaurant with 2 AA Rosette’s featuring Cumbrian produce Friendly personal service Special breaks available year round

The perfect place to relax and enjoy the beauty of the Lake District. Cedar Manor Hotel & Restaurant Ambleside Road, Windermere, Cumbria, LA23 1AX, UK Email: [email protected] • Tel: 015394 43192 • www.cedarmanor.co.uk

pursuits – from fly-fishing on Graythwaite’s private tarn to clay Yet more literary connections abound on the nearby 5,000-acre pigeon shooting and Segway tours along a scenic route of private Graythwaite Estate where the woodlands were also featured in tracks. Then again, it’s the perfect place for doing nothing at all. Beatrix Potter’s short story The Fairy Caravan. Silverholme, In June 1881 Charles Darwin stayed in Glenridding House for five a Grade II listed Georgian country house for hire on the estate, is the weeks with members of his family. Thanks to surviving letters, it is former home of Oscar Gnosspelius, a pioneer seaplane builder. clear that he enjoyed his stay by picturesque Ullswater, the region’s A friend of author Arthur Ransome, Gnosspelius advised the writer second largest lake, which forms the border between the ancient on Pigeon Post, his sixth Swallows and Amazons book. He was also counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. the inspiration for Timothy, the character known as ‘Squashy Hat.’ These days Glenridding House, a Grade II listed villa not too Although it is almost 200 years old, Silverholme has been immaculately restored with each room a blend of period character far from mighty mountain Helvellyn, offers AA five gold star and modern comfort. The house sleeps 16 in eight individually-styled accommodation awash with Regency elegance. Built around 1820, en-suite bedrooms and another two in the original bedrooms with panoramic lake or mountain views have Coachman’s Cottage in the 12-acre gardens. Incidentally, oak floors, hand-finished mango wood furniture, Clockwise, from top: Silverholme the gardens were the first commission for Victorian original window shutters and Victorian brass bedsteads. country home on the designer Thomas Mawson, who went on to lay out the All bedrooms come with en-suite showers or bathrooms Graythwaite Estate; Peace Palace Gardens at The Hague. with cast iron slipper baths. a bedroom at Lindeth Four reception rooms include an enormous kitchen and Extensive grounds and landscaped gardens provide Howe; Old Mill Barn, library, plus a TV room with 50-in screen and surround tranquility – the danger of course is that once you’ve in Penrith, is a cosy converted watermill sound. Concierge services on hand help guests plan leisure checked in, you’ll never want to leave. www.britain-magazine.com

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Holiday Hideaways

To find out more about visiting the Lake District go to www.britainmagazine.com

BOOK AHEAD

PHOTOS: © VISITBRITAIN/LEE BEEL/BRITAIN ON VIEW/JOE MURPHY

POET'S VIEW COTTAGE Situated in Hunting Stile, this three bedroom cottage-style apartment was formerly the ballroom of a gentleman's residence built for the grandson of William Wordsworth. Today it has been transformed into an idyllic holiday retreat. www.cumbrian-cottages.co.uk WAITBY SCHOOL This former school is now a cosy cottage offering a dose of nostalgia, with all the mod cons. It has two double bedrooms and three singles in a triple room, sleeping up to seven. The cottage is family-friendly with a cot and high chair available. www.waitbyschool.com

DAFFODIL HOTEL & SPA This 78-room, 4-star hotel is the ideal lakeside location for enjoying a Champagne afternoon tea. The hotel also provides guests with information on William Wordsworth, with themed walks in the area. www.daffodilhotel.co.uk

LINDETH HOWE COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL This four-star hotel was once the home of children’s author Beatrix Potter. It overlooks Lake Windermere and boasts a 2 AA Rosette restaurant. www.lindeth-howe.co.uk

SILVERHOLME Guests at this elegant manor house have exclusive access to a heated swimming pool, fitness suite and table tennis room. With a mix of period character and modern luxuries, Silverholme is a delightful country

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house for hire – it even has its own private jetty. www.graythwaite.com/silverholme OLD MILL BARN The five-bedroomed converted Old Mill Barn is located in the unspoiled village of Gamblesby. Well-behaved dogs welcome you to this family-friendly establishment. www.oldmillbarn.co.uk GLENRIDDING HOUSE HOTEL Stay in the Grade II Georgian villa that hosted Charles Darwin and his family in 1881. Originally built in

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Craftmanship

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE By train: The West Coast Main Line train runs to the east of the Lake District, connecting Oxenholme, Penrith and Carlisle with London and Glasgow. Direct trains run from Manchester to Windermere. Towns and villages such as Ambleside, Windermere, Coniston and Keswick are linked by bus, with extra summer services. By air: The nearest airports are Manchester and Glasgow. There is a railway station at Manchester airport with services that run to Oxenholme (next to Kendal), Kendal, Staveley and Windermere.

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By car: The average journey time from London is around five hours. The M6 motorway runs to the east of the Lake District. Turn off either at Kendal (Junction 37) or Penrith (Junction 40) for quickest access to the national park. GETTING AROUND By car: Bear in mind narrow roads and traffic jams in places, depending on time of year. If you don’t want to drive there are plenty of car hire companies in the area. By bus: The Lake District has good public transport links and Stagecoach Cumbria runs a network of local bus services. www.stagecoachbus.com

Poet's View Cottage

By train: Get around by train on the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway or the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. A particularly scenic trip runs along the coastline of Cumbria from Barrow-in-Furness to Carlisle. www.lakesiderailway.co.uk www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk www.northernrail.org

1820, today it is a luxurious five-star boutique hotel in an enviable location on the edge of Ullswater, the Lake District's second largest body of water. www.glenriddinghouse.com KESWICK BOAT HOUSE Sitting on the shores of Derwent Water, and extending into the lake, Keswick Boat House offers stunning views set in peaceful lakeside surroundings. Overhanging balconies are the perfect place to enjoy tea and coffee in the morning, while access to row boats make this a water lover's paradise. www.cumbrian-cottages.co.uk

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By boat: There’s no better way to explore the lakes than by boat and there are several charters to choose from, including Ullswater Steamers, which has operated on its namesake lake for 150 years, or Windermere Lake Cruises – the most popular attraction in Cumbria. www.ullswater-steamers.co.uk www.windermere-lakecruises.co.uk

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Discover award-winning surprises in Wirral Wirral Peninsula is an oasis of breathtaking coastline, and lush countryside, with a delicious range of eateries and welcoming places to stay. Ideally situated between the two cities of Chester and Liverpool, enjoy stunning views over the Welsh Hills and the River Dee on one side, with the spectacular Liverpool skyline and the River Mersey on the other. Discover Wirral for an action-packed break or a leisurely long weekend.

Discover a warm welcome

Discover Coast & Countryside

The stunning Grade II listed Hillbark Hotel & Spa is an idyllic place to stay and Merseyside’s first 5 star hotel. Set in beautiful parkland, indulge here - choosing from 2 AA or 3 AA Rosette fine dining, and be pampered in the sumptuous spa. Revitalised, explore Royden Park and ride the model railway - ideal for kids.

Visit Ness Botanic Gardens to discover an exquisite educational environment, and outstanding collections of plants and flowers, along with a visitor centre, nature trails and a café. Close-by is Inglewood Manor, recognised with a Visit England Taste award for its fine dining. This country house hotel retains all the charm of a lavish Edwardian family home and is surrounded by 38 acres of exquisite grounds. Later explore Wirral Country Park in Thurstaston; the first country park in Britain. It is home to the Wirral Way, a 12-mile former railway line tracing the Dee Estuary coast and offering an environmental oasis for walkers and cyclists, as well as breathtaking views from the dramatic cliffs across the estuary. You will also discover the Shore Cottage Studio, winner of a North West Coastal Excellence Award and offering a variety of art courses with inspirational views.

Hillbark Hotel & Spa, Frankby

In nearby West Kirby, enjoy some retail therapy at the boutique shops before strolling along the promenade or beach, and take in wonderful views of Wales and Wirral’s treasured Hilbre Islands. Walk or take a boat to the islands and see a variety of wildlife, followed by more adventure with the water sports at the Marine Lake. Emerge shaken not stirred at The Wro Bar, Lounge & Loft; Best Bar in Merseyside three times and Wirral’s Best Bar Team this year, before taking a short hop to Hoylake, childhood home of James Bond actor, Daniel Craig. Here, choose from quality eating places and find Royal Liverpool Golf Club, which played host to the last Men’s British Open Championship. Wirral is a golfer’s paradise; with 14 spectacular courses, and the Wirral Golf Classic - an amateur golf tournament taking place every September.

Then, begin the day at Port Sunlight to receive an absorbing insight into a 19th Century model village. Marvel at award-winning gardens, the art gallery, and uniquely designed houses. Just across the village unwind at the Leverhulme Hotel, an art-deco boutique resting place with its 2 AA Rosette restaurant. Step back in time at Wirral Attraction of the Year - Port Sunlight Museum, before visiting nearby Claremont Farm, home to the Wirral Farm Feast every summer. Try one of the cooking courses here or visit the superb farm shop. Later, ferry across the Mersey with Europe’s celebrated and oldest ferry service, departing from Seacombe and Woodside. Follow this with a quality real ale at Gallagher’s Pub & Barbers ‘Wirral CAMRA Pub’ for the fourth time, and gents get a hot towel shave while you’re there!

Discover the taste of Wirral The Jug & Bottle, Heswall

In nearby Heswall is The Jug and Bottle welcoming guest accommodation with views of the Dee and perfect for a delightful meal in an inviting gastro-pub environment. Finally, relax at award-winning Thornton Hall Hotel & Spa in the quaint Thornton Hough Village. Treat yourself to a 3 AA Rosette fine dining experience, here in its Lawns Restaurant with panoramic views of the beautiful grounds, or indulge in afternoon tea on The Lawns.

Discover Culture

Ness Botanic Gardens, Ness

Dell Bridge, Port Sunlight

The delightful, 5 Star Gold, Mere Brook House is the perfect base to explore some must-see attractions. Wirral Accommodation of the Year three years on the run, and recently named Merseyside Guest Accommodation of the Year, this Edwardian guesthouse in Thornton Hough offers a warm welcome in luxurious surroundings.

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England’s Queens

WOMEN ULE

R

The author of two books charting the history of our female monarchs tells the stories behind some of our most memorable queens WORDS ELIZABETH NORTON

Above: Queen Elizabeth I in a portrait by Nicholas Hilliard. This photo: Queen Victoria visits HMS Resolute

Over the past 2,000 years, nearly 80 women have sat on the royal throne of England, either as consort or reigning queen. Some of the country’s most formidable rulers have been female, with our current queen, Elizabeth II, now approaching the record for longest-reigning monarch, a record held by Queen Victoria. Perhaps the most redoubtable of English queens was also the earliest. The records of queenship begin with Boudica (c.30-60/1 AD), the best known of all the Ancient Britons. She was the wife of Prasutagus, the King of the Iceni – a tribe based in East Anglia. Britain was conquered by Emperor Claudius in AD 43, with Boudica and her husband ruling as clients of Rome. When Prasutagus died, the Romans seized his kingdom – beating his widow and raping his daughters. Boudica, who was a giant of a woman with flowing fair hair, responded to these outrages with violence. Uniting the neighbouring tribes under her leadership, she sacked the new cities of Colchester, London and St Albans. The speed of her rebellion caught the outnumbered Romans by surprise and it was some time before they were ready for battle. Riding up and down her lines in a chariot, Boudica spurred her troops on, but they were no match for the Romans’ ordered discipline. The result was a bloodbath, with the queen reputedly poisoning herself when she realised her defeat. While Boudica’s rebellion was swift and dramatic, her efforts ultimately ended in failure and some 500 years later, Bertha of Kent (c.539-612) proved to have a much longer-lasting legacy.

England’s Queens

PHOTOS: © LEBRECHT MUSIC AND ARTS PHOTO LIBRARY/ALAMY/V&A IMAGES/DE AGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY/GETTY/ELIZABETH NORTON/JONATHAN REEVE

Bertha, who was the daughter of the King of Paris, married the pagan King Ethelbert of Kent before 567. As a Christian, she brought her chaplain with her to England and worshipped in her own chapel in Canterbury. When, in 596, Pope Gregory sent St Augustine to convert the English, Bertha offered the use of her own church. Augustine also received a warm welcome from Ethelbert thanks to his familiarity with his wife’s faith. He soon agreed to be baptised. Bertha’s role in the conversion of England was widely known and in 602 she received a letter of thanks from the Pope. There were few queens more daring than Emma of Normandy (c.980-1052), who married two successive English kings. As a teenager, Emma wed the middle-aged Ethelred II. This famously ‘unready’ king was plagued by Viking attacks and, after his death in 1016, his throne was seized by the Danish Cnut the Great. To bolster his claim, Cnut married Emma, with the queen prominent during his reign. With the coronation of her son, Harthacnut, in 1040, she was able to ensure her continuing prominence as queen mother. She was also responsible for the return from Normandy of her eldest son, Edward the Confessor, who succeeded his half-brother in 1042. Emma’s great-nephew, William the Conqueror, claimed the throne in 1066 through his relationship with the English queen. The most powerful English queen was probably Eleanor of Aquitaine (1122-1204), who ruled one of the richest fiefdoms of medieval Europe. She was married at age 15 to King Louis VII of France, a man who would have been more suited to a monastery than a throne. Nonetheless, the couple had two daughters and Eleanor accompanied Facing page, top to bottom: Boudica; stained glass window depicting Queen Bertha at Canterbury Cathedral; King Cnut and Emma of Normandy

Above: Fleet of ships carrying Isabella of France to England to wed King Edward II. Left: Isabella of Angoulême and Eleanor of Aquitaine

DID YOU KNOW? Aside from the real queens, there were mythical queens such as Cordelia, the youngest daughter of King Lear (or Leir), immortalised by William Shakespeare. According to the 12th-century writer Geoffrey of Monmouth, Cordelia killed herself after her two nephews forced her from the throne and imprisoned her.

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England’s Queens

her husband to the Holy Land on Crusade. After meeting the future King Henry II of England, she asked Louis for a divorce, marrying her second husband in 1152. Henry and Eleanor had a turbulent relationship, with the queen later inciting her sons to rebel against their father. When this failed in 1173, Eleanor was captured trying to escape to France dressed as a man. After 16 years as a prisoner in England, she was released in 1189 on the accession of her son, King Richard I. The new king relied on his elderly mother during his long absences from England and she was a political force to be reckoned with. Eleanor continued to support her youngest son, John, after he became king in 1199. She remained active to the end, even being besieged by her grandson in 1202. Surely there is no English queen more notorious than Isabella of France (c.1295-1358). Remembered as the ‘She-Wolf of France’, she endured an unhappy marriage to the unpopular King Edward II. During a visit to her homeland in 1325, she built a party of English exiles around her, including her lover, Roger Mortimer, and her brother-in-law, Edmund, Earl of Kent. With support from her brother, the King of France, the queen declared that she and her eldest son (the future King Edward III) would not return to England when summoned. Facing page: This Queen Elizabeth I image appeared on the frontispiece to the 1569 publication Christian Prayers

PHOTOS: © WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE/ALAMY/JONATHAN REEVE/OYAL COLLECTION TRUST / HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2015

Elizabeth I is remembered as one of our greatest rulers, but her path to the throne was a troubled one Isabella landed at Harwich with an army in September 1326 and rapidly seized power, capturing Edward and his favourite aide, Hugh Despenser, as they fled towards Wales. Despenser, who was rumoured to be the king’s lover, was executed, while Edward was deposed in favour of his son. Since the new King Edward III was a minor, Isabella and Mortimer ruled England on his behalf. They became increasingly unpopular after being suspected of ordering the murder of King Edward II and executing their former friend, Edmund of Kent. In 1330, the young king and a party of armed men rushed into the queen’s bedchamber at Nottingham Castle. As they dragged her lover from the room, Isabella cried out ‘fair son, have pity on gentle Mortimer’, but he was executed. The queen was placed under house arrest in a succession of castles before settling in Castle Rising in Norfolk. Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603) is remembered as one of England’s greatest rulers, but her path to the throne was a troubled one. The idea of a reigning queen was still an unusual one in England and, on her accession, everyone expected her to quickly marry and provide England with a king. Instead, Elizabeth was determined to rule alone, presiding over a period marked by exploration and advances in the arts and technology. With her Religious Settlement of 1559, Elizabeth also helped to create the www.britain-magazine.com

A SCOTTISH CONTENDER? Aged just six days when she ascended to the throne following the death of her father, King James V of Scotland , Mary, Queen of Scots, led a tumultuous reign. She unsuccessfully tried to seize the English throne from her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I, and when she was ousted from the Scottish throne in favour of her young son, King James VI (who went on to be crowned King James I of England), it was with her English cousin that she sought refuge. Unfortunately for Mary, her earlier inflammatory actions proved to be her downfall and Elizabeth imprisoned her in many of the country's castles and manor houses before having her executed for supposedly organising the plot to have her assassinated.

Above: Queen Elizabeth I. Below: Mary, Queen of Scots, painting by François Clouet

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England’s Queens

PHOTOS: © FINE ART IMAGES/HERITAGE-IMAGES.COM/GL ARCHIVE/ALAMY

For more tales of our famous kings and queens go to www.britainmagazine.com

modern Church of England. Her greatest moment came as she surveyed her troops at Tilbury during clashes with the Spanish Armada in 1588. With this crushing defeat of Spain, she ruled for nearly 15 more years as ‘Gloriana’. Queen Anne (1665-1714) modelled herself on Elizabeth I when she came to the throne in 1702. The last monarch of the House of Stuart was, by that stage, middle aged and disabled by 17 pregnancies – her only child to survive past the age of two, the Duke of Gloucester, died aged 11. Nonetheless, the first Queen of Great Britain ruled during a period of great expansion in British prestige, with the Duke of Marlborough’s victories in the War of the Spanish Succession particularly notable. The fiercely intelligent Caroline of Ansbach (1683-1737) was one of the most politically influential English consorts. After the accession of her husband, King George II, she persuaded him to keep Sir Robert Walpole as his prime minister. The queen formed a close partnership with Walpole and used her influence with the king to push her policies. She also carefully selected her unfaithful husband’s lovers, to ensure that they were inferior to her. When, on her deathbed, she asked George to remarry, he replied “no, I shall have mistresses”.

DID YOU KNOW? With her notoriety for being an adulterous queen, Isabella of France was lampooned for centuries for her extra-marital affairs, despite the fact her husband was widely believed to be attracted to men.

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Top left: Queen Victoria in the Royal Box at the Drury Lane Theatre in 1837

Above: Queen Anne, while still Princess of Denmark

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England’s Queens

PHOTOS: © MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY/TIM GRAHAM/GETTY/GL ARCHIVE/ALAMY

Above: Queen Victoria. Below, right: Queen Elizabeth II has reigned for 63 years

Right: Queen Elizabeth II arrives at Westminster Abbey for her coronation in June 1953

Victoria (1819-1901) holds the record as England’s longest-reigning monarch. After enduring a strict childhood, she was determined to enjoy herself when she came to the throne at the age of 18, recalling in one letter that “I have been dancing till four o’clock this morning”. She soon married her cousin, Prince Albert, to whom she was devoted; she remained black-clad after his early death. She became Empress of India in 1876, and it was said that the sun never set on her empire. Victoria’s longevity meant that she came to define her era and she was the first English monarch to celebrate her diamond jubilee in 1897. Queen Elizabeth II (b.1926) will overtake her great-great-grandmother as longest-reigning monarch this September. She became heir to the throne unexpectedly in 1936, with the abdication of her uncle, King Edward VIII. Her Majesty was visiting Kenya when she heard the news that she was to become Queen in 1952, and her reign was romantically hailed as a ‘New Elizabethan Age’. Over the years she has devoted herself to her duties as a constitutional monarch and has weathered many storms, most notably the marital difficulties of her children, the 1992 Windsor Castle fire and the death of Diana, Princess of Wales, in 1997. Now approaching 90, the Queen remains one of the most popular Royal Family members. English history is full of powerful queens, both consorts and monarchs, and each one has helped to shape a role that has survived for nearly two millennia.

BUY THE BOOKS England’s Queens: From Boudica to Elizabeth of York and England's Queens: From Catherine of Aragon to Elizabeth II by Elizabeth Norton (Amberley, £9.99 each) are available at all good bookstores, the Amberley website, Amazon and The Book Depository.

8 For more stories on the lives and loves of our famous kings and queens go to www.britain-magazine.com

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Did Mary, Queen of Scots, betray her husband on a visit to Provand’s Lordship? Visit this fascinating museum and decide for yourself

PHOTOS: © ALAN BROADFOOT/GLASGOW CITY COUNCIL (MUSEUMS)

B

uilt in 1471 by Andrew Muirhead, Bishop of Glasgow, as the manse for the priest of Glasgow Cathedral and the nearby St Nicholas Hospital, Provand’s Lordship in Glasgow is one of the few surviving medieval buildings in the city. Over the years Provand’s Lordship has been a private residence and its position as one of the oldest buildings in Glasgow has led to it being affectionately known as the ‘auld hoose’. Inside, it is furnished with a fine collection of 17th-century Scottish furniture, donated by Sir William Burrell, with room settings giving a flavour of interiors of the period from 1500-1700, but the house is probably best known for its links to Mary, Queen of Scots and her husband Lord Henry Darnley, whose portraits hang here. The portraits allude to one of the most enduring legends connected to Provand’s Lordship – that in 1567, Mary, Queen of Scots may have lodged here while visiting the ailing Lord Darnley. The story goes that having arrived in Glasgow from Stirling, and possibly suffering from smallpox, Darnley was cared for nearby and that while visiting him, Mary may have stayed at

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Provand’s Lordship. At this time, Provand’s was owned by William Baillie, Lord of Provan, who was one of Mary’s advisors. Mary came to Glasgow to persuade Darnley to return to Edinburgh with her, which he did, only to be killed the very next day in an explosion at his Edinburgh residence. Darnley had many enemies but Mary was also suspected of having a hand in his demise – a theory backed up by a letter supposedly written by Mary to the Earl of Bothwell, whom she married only three months after Darnley’s death. The letter has become known as the ‘Glasgow Letter’, one of a collection said to have been written by Mary in 1566 and 1567. If genuine, the most incriminating of the ‘Casket Letters’ could have been written at Provand’s Lordship. By 1568, Mary was defeated at the Battle of Langside by her half-brother, the Earl of Moray. Today a monument at the edge of Queen’s Park marks the site of this battle, while many streets in the area are named in commemoration of it. A selection of objects relating to the battle can be seen on display at Kelvingrove Art Gallery

and Museum, including armour, cannon balls, paintings and pictures of the battle site, as well as portraits of Mary and the Earl of Moray. After being forced to abdicate, Mary fled to England to seek refuge with her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I. The last 19 years of the former queen’s life were spent in captivity, before she was finally executed on 8 February 1587 at Fotheringhay Castle in Northamptonshire.

Text informed by the book Provand’s Lordship and Old Glasgow, published by Glasgow City Council (Museums) in 2004. www. glasgowlife.org.uk/museums

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The Stafford Wine Cellars, built in the 17th century by Lord Francis Godolphin, house some 8,000 bottles of the finest wine. The cellars were used as an air-raid shelter in the Second World War and as visitors arrive they are greeted with artefacts from the war. The Stafford London’s Master Sommelier, Gino Nardella, oversees operations; his 40 years of experience makes for exceptional wine pairing events. Visitors can also discover St James’s on the Discover The Secrets of St James’s tour, which takes visitors in the direction of St James’s Park – admire town houses, exclusive shops and wine merchants. The tours take place each month, are priced £35pp and last three hours. For more information on The Stafford London visit www.thestaffordlondon.com.

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PHOTOS: © ANWAR HUSSEIN/EMPICS ENTERTAINMENT/PA IMAGES/MARC MILLAR PHOTOGRAPHY/ ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA/JAYNE FINCHER/GETTY IMAGES

Clockwise, from above: The Library at Erddig, Wrexham; the house includes a servants' hall with portraits of estate and household staff; Holkham Hall Norfolk, home of the Earl of Leicester; gardeners at Erddig; house servants c.1914

A PALACE ON WATER We take a photographic tour of the yacht that the Queen once called home and which now draws in the crowds in Edinburgh WORDS SALLY COFFEY

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The Royal Yacht Britannia

T

he Royal Yacht Britannia was home to the Queen and her family for over 40 years, entering service as Her Majesty’s floating residence in 1954 before finally being retired in 1997. Her decks have borne witness to some of the most memorable events in modern times and her cabins have hosted countless illustrious guests, including Sir Winston Churchill, Nelson Mandela and Rajiv Gandhi. Often used as the perfect backdrop to a photo shoot, the Royal Yacht Britannia has been there on many of the Royal Family’s momentous occasions. Princess Anne and Prince Charles were carried to Malta on the ship’s maiden voyage to reunite with their parents, the Queen and Prince Philip, at the end of the royal couple’s Commonwealth tour in 1954 and Charles and www.britain-magazine.com

Diana, the Prince and Princess of Wales, took their honeymoon cruise aboard Britannia in 1981. The Queen is said to have relished the annual summer cruise that she and the Royal Family would take following the Cowes Week sailing regatta on the Isle of Wight, once saying of the ship: “This is where I can truly relax.” The tradition was to sail to the Western Isles of Scotland, landing on remote beaches, which gave the family privacy and the Queen a break from her official duties. The Royal Family would take picnics on islands such as Colonsay, Skye, Eigg, Rum and the Isle of Harris and be entertained by the Royal Yachtsmen with concerts that on occasion featured a member of the Royal Family in the cast. Throughout the 1960s, the Royal Racing Yacht Bloodhound accompanied the ship in the Western Isles and

Clockwise, from facing page: The State Drawing Room on board the Royal Yacht Britannia; the Queen and Prince Philip on Britannia with Ronald and Nancy Reagan in 1983; Prince Charles and Diana depart for their honeymoon cruise in 1981

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PHOTOS: © MARC MILLAR PHOTOGRAPHY/ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA/PA ARCHIVE/PA IMAGES

Clockwise, from above: Sir Hugh Casson's idea for the design of Britannia was for it to be like a country house at sea; fireworks during an evening event on Britannia; Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip board Britannia for a cruise to the Western Isles of Scotland; the Grand Staircase

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it was during this time that both Prince Charles and Princess Anne learned to sail. The mood on board was relaxed but Britannia’s officers did create a booklet, Western Isles Without Tears, to ensure that everything went perfectly. Family holidays aside, the ship also had a more practical purpose – its design allowed it to be converted into a hospital ship in time of war and though this capability was never fully tested, it was used in the evacuation of 1,000 refugees from the civil war in Aden, Yemen, in 1986. In the event of a nuclear war the plan was that the Queen would take refuge on Britannia. But it was as a British ambassador, promoting trade and industry around the globe, that the ship really gained its column inches. An invite aboard was rarely refused and the reaction on witnessing the level of service and splendid interiors was equally positive. When Ronald Reagan visited he is said to have remarked: “I know I promised Nancy everything in the world when I married her, but how can I ever top this?”

It’s easy to see what won Reagan’s approval – the simple and elegant design, overseen by the Queen and Prince Philip, is a throwback to 1950s glamour – its designer, Sir Hugh Casson, said: “The overall idea was to give the impression of a country house at sea.” In 1997 the incoming Labour government decided to retire the ship. Its final foreign mission was to transport

DID YOU KNOW? • This was the second royal vessel to bear the name Britannia – the first being a racing cutter built for the Prince of Wales in 1893. The Prince would later be crowned King Edward VII in 1902. • Although she is recognised around the world, you won’t see Britannia’s name written anywhere on her hull. • Britannia was the only ship in the world whose captain traditionally held the rank of Admiral.

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The Royal Yacht Britannia

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The Royal Yacht Britannia

the last Governor of Hong Kong, Chris Patten, and Prince Charles away following the official handover of Hong Kong to China in July 1997. When the ship was officially decommissioned on 11 December 1997 the Queen is said to have wept. Today the Royal Yacht Britannia is a five-star visitor attraction in Edinburgh. Highlights of a visit include a tour of the beautiful state apartments and royal bedrooms – the Queen’s room is the only bedroom of a living monarch ever to be viewed by the public. You can also visit the Sun Lounge, much loved by the Queen, and take tea in the Royal Deck Tea Room. Private tours – which must be booked in advance – offer insight into what life was really like on board for the Royal Family and crew. The Royal Racing Yacht Bloodhound is also moored alongside the ship in Edinburgh, except in July and August when it can be chartered around the Western Isles – now that really would be something.

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and the Duke of Edinburgh on board at Suva for the ‘Cavuikelekele’ ceremony performed by Fijian chiefs

PHOTOS: © PA IMAGES/MARC MILLAR

Clockwise, from left: The interior of the Royal Yacht Britannia after its major refit; the Sun Lounge; Queen Elizabeth II

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PHOTOS: © PA ARCHIVE/PA IMAGES/MARC MILLAR PHOTOGRAPHY/ ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA/KEYSTONE/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES

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Top to bottom: Dining on board the Royal Yacht Britannia; Major A D Firth MBE receives the

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‘A hilarious battle of wits, patience, fire extinguishers and fine food’ Australian Traveller, Sydney Opera House

‘A rollickingly fun piece of theatre’ Ottawa Citizen, National Arts Centre, Canada

‘Deliciously entertaining... not to be missed’ What’s on London

Tickets & info: faultytowers-uk.com www.britain-magazine.com

0845 154 4145 britain 79

Interview

COOKING FOR OYALTY

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Carolyn Robb was chef to Prince Charles for 11 years. Here she talks about working on the Royal Yacht Britannia, cooking for princes Harry and William, and her book, The Royal Touch

PHOTOS: © SIMONBROWNPHOTOGRAPHY.COM/RON BELL/PA ARCHIVE/PA IMAGES

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eing a chef is a notoriously high-pressured job, but for Carolyn Robb seemingly not enough of a challenge. Robb spent years as personal chef to the most high-profile of clients, including TRH The Prince and Princess of Wales, before becoming a food critic, entrepreneur and food advisor.

Born and raised in South Africa, Carolyn was inspired to cook by her mother from an early age and her childhood spent in a warm climate, surrounded by fresh fruit and vegetables, provided her with plentiful ingredients. After going to university in South Africa she came to England and gained a diploma from Le Cordon Bleu, paving the way for her culinary career. How did you come to work in the royal household? From a very young age it had always been an ambition. When I was seven years old and I came to England to visit my grandparents, my father took me to Buckingham Palace to see the Changing of the Guard. I vividly remember peering through the railings at the front of the palace, like millions of other curious tourists do. Later, while I was at cookery school, I was invited to Kensington Palace for an interview with TRH The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester. I was very

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fortunate to be offered the position as their personal chef. Two years later I was offered a position just a few hundred yards away within Kensington Palace – as chef to TRH The Prince and Princess of Wales. What kinds of things did you cook for Prince William and Prince Harry? They had a very healthy and well-balanced diet. As young children their food was simple and quite traditionally British: roast chicken, shepherd’s pie, sausage and mash. I like to think of the way I cook as being the very best of ‘home-cooking’, which is more suited to working as a private chef than in a commercial kitchen, so I always kept things simple. The food was never grand; I used a lot of wonderful produce that was fresh from the garden and it really needed very little doing to it in order to make a delicious meal. I have always loved cooking for children and making food fun and appealing for them. In my new cookbook (The Royal Touch) I have devoted a chapter called ‘Little Bites’ to children’s food. What was it like being on board Britannia? It was a great privilege and I have some amazing memories of my time on board, in www.britain-magazine.com

Bicentenary of Waterloo

Left to right right: Former personal chef to the Royal Family, Carolyn Robb; the Prince and Princess of Wales are reunited with their children, William and Harry, aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia

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some amazing locations around the world. To name a few: Brazil, Jamaica, Turkey, Saudi Arabia and Hong Kong (for the Handover in 1997). This was the final voyage of the Royal Yacht and was a very emotional time for people in many ways. The galley on board was quite small, often hot, and when the sea was rough it was very rocky. The team of chefs on board were wonderful; we were often very busy and they were a brilliant support and a lot of fun. What’s the best thing about being a royal chef? As chef jobs go, it couldn’t have been a nicer one. The variety of food required was huge, from simple picnics to exquisite banquets. Every day was different and with all the travelling both within the UK and abroad there was never a dull moment, but for me the highlight was the enormous privilege of working for such an incredible family. While working as royal chef, were there any heart-stopping moments? I am happy to say that I didn’t have any major disasters. I did once have a challenge with some soufflés for a big event; the handle broke off the oven door – I could see them looking perfect, but I couldn’t get them out. www.britain-magazine.com

I hastily made another batch and cooked them in a different oven. Could you tell us a bit more about your current book, The Royal Touch? I always wanted to write a book with my mother, who was a wonderful cook and taught me so much. Unfortunately, that didn’t happen, but she was the inspiration behind it. It has 100 recipes with ideas drawn from far and wide, from my childhood, from my time living in South Africa, Switzerland, Dubai and California, and some of the recipes in the book are dishes that I served to the Royal Family. Being a busy mum to two small children I understand the need for simple meals that don’t take too long to prepare, yet are nutritious and appealing to young and old alike.

BUY THE BOOK Buy ‘The Royal Touch: Simply Stunning Home Cooking from a Royal Chef’ by Carolyn Robb (£25, ACC Editions) from Amazon and The Book Depository.

for just

US $29.99 or £19.95 WORLDWIDE! • Instant delivery of each new issue • Save off the print price • Free access to previous issues To order, go to www.chelseamagazines. com/britain-P503D BRITAIN

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City breaks ELY

This Cambridgeshire city is famous for its cathedral and connections to the Lord Protector, Oliver Cromwell WORDS CHARLOTTE CROW

Where to eat, stay and visit

ELY'S SPLENDID CATHEDRAL, SURROUNDED BY MEADOWS AND PARKLAND WITH DUCKS WADDLING ON THE GREEN OUTSIDE, EXERTS AN IRRESISTIBLE PULL

Below: Oliver Cromwell was the city’s most famous resident

W

hether approaching by road, rail or river, few sights compare with the first glimpse of Ely Cathedral. Rising out of the flat Fenland landscape of East Cambridgeshire, this immense edifice of ornate turrets and intricate flying buttresses against the expansive skies sends shivers down the spine. Of course, this is exactly the effect its builders desired; the cathedral was erected by the Normans as an awe-inspiring symbol of conquest, superiority and gratitude to God after overcoming fierce resistance from the local Anglo-Saxon population, just a few years after the Battle of Hastings. This glorious vision lends Ely its nickname, the Beacon of the Fens. Today Ely's light is shining as brightly as ever and the ‘small city' (population 20,000) is undergoing a renaissance. Ely is one of Britain's driest counties in terms of rainfall and boasts beautiful sunsets; the 2012 Halifax Rural Areas Quality of Life Survey designated East Cambridgeshire as the best region for

quality of life in Britain. Together with its beautiful Fenland habitat, rich history and tempting restaurants and shops – within easy reach of Cambridge, London and Stansted – it's no surprise that its visitor numbers and population are on the rise. Surrounded by meadows and parkland, with ducks waddling on the green outside, the cathedral continues to exert an irresistible pull. Tours of its superb Romanesque interior are available and are a great starting point to gain an overview of Ely's significant past. Exceptional features include the magnificent Lady Chapel and the famous lantern tower, a jaw-dropping feat of engineering and craftsmanship erected after the earlier tower collapsed in 1322, leaving a gaping hole in the crossing. Before construction of the cathedral began in 1083, an abbey stood on this site. Founded in 673 by pious Anglo-Saxon princess, Etheldreda, it had become a flourishing institution by the time she died of plague in 679. St Etheldreda's shrine became a popular pilgrim destination for

centuries until its destruction in 1539 during the Dissolution of the Monasteries. A flagstone marks the spot near the high altar where it once stood. Etheldreda had acquired the Isle of Ely as a dowry from her father, King Anna of East Anglia. It derives its name from these early times, when the settlement was surrounded by wetland and its marshy waters provided inhabitants with their mainstay – eels. Valued for their meat and skin (which when dried is tougher than leather), eels were so abundant in medieval Ely that they were used as currency and were traded in Peterborough in exchange for stone to build the cathedral. The Domesday Book of 1086 recorded that 52,000 eels were caught in the River Great Ouse in one year alone. Since the mid-20th century, eel numbers have declined and they are now endangered. Although they appear infrequently on local menus, the city celebrates this part of its heritage through the Ely Eel Festival, held each spring; a lively celebration with historical re-enactments, stalls and a parade. www.britain-magazine.com

PHOTOS: © ROB ELLIS/ISTOCK/LOOP IMAGES/ALAMY/ACTIVE MUSEUM/PAUL THOMPSON IMAGES/ JACK SULLIVAN/ QUENTIN BARGATE/CORBIS

DON'T MISS

City Breaks CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE: ELY GETTING THERE

There are good rail links to Cambridge (15 minutes) and London (70 minutes) and direct lines to Sheffield, Liverpool, the Midlands, Norwich and Stansted Airport. www.nationalrail.co.uk A regional bus service operates in and around Ely, with passes available for unlimited one-day bus travel. Long-stay parking is freely available in and around the town. WHERE TO STAY

Ely offers plenty of bed and breakfast and self-catering accommodation to suit all purses. For an approved list go to www.visitely.org.uk/accommodation The Nyton, a family guest house, adjoins Ely's 18-hole golf course, 10 minutes' walk from the city centre. www.thenyton.com Poet's House, which opened in 2013, is a stylish but unstuffy boutique hotel offering guests comfort in relaxed surroundings overlooking the cathedral and Oliver Cromwell's House. www.poetshouse.com Offering charming bed and breakfast accommodation only a 10-minute walk from the cathedral and the main shopping street, Daisy Cottage is a lovely base for your visit to Ely. www.daisycottagebandb.co.uk WHERE TO EAT

Alternatively, the Ely Eel Trail features five works of art relating to the life-cycle of the eel. This self-guided walk loops through old parts of the town, down to a delightful stretch of the River Great Ouse. On the way back there’s a fine vista of the cathedral from Cherry Hill Park, where the Norman motte and bailey castle once stood. The Eel Trail begins at the former home of Ely's most famous resident, Oliver Cromwell. The future Lord Protector lived here for a decade from 1636, close to the cathedral, in a property inherited from his uncle. The house now displays an engaging presentation of Cromwell’s life, while doubling up as the Tourist Information Centre. Cromwell exerted considerable influence in the region and was elected MP for Cambridge in 1640. He held the office of tithe-collector at Ely Cathedral and was known as Lord of the Fens for defending fenmen’s rights on land drainage. His radical Puritan views put him at odds with the Catholic clergy and he is held responsible for the closure of the cathedral for several years in the 1640s. www.britain-magazine.com

Clockwise from far left: Boats moored on the River Great Ouse, Ely Cathedral; a typical house in the ‘small city’; Oliver Cromwell's House

An established favourite, the Old Fire Engine House boasts fine interiors, an art gallery and a gorgeous walled garden just a stone's throw from the cathedral. All the produce, from bread to chutney, is made on

the premises using delicious locally-sourced, seasonal ingredients. www.theoldfireenginehouse.co.uk Award-winning Peacock's Tearoom, in a perfect Wisteria-clad house overlooking the river, serves light lunches and afternoon teas. Exquisite cakes and heart-shaped scones are baked daily by owner Rachel Peacock. www.peacockstearoom.co.uk The Almonry Restaurant occupies part of the cathedral's medieval complex. Eat in the 12th-century undercroft or outside where the pretty garden looks onto a stunning aspect of the cathedral's east end. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturdays evenings. www.elycathedral.org/visit/the-almonryrestaurant

Clockwise, from top: Daisy Cottage; Peacocks Tearoom; The Old Fire Engine House's bar

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CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE: ELY at Downham, where medieval remains can be seen. Take advantage of the hill-free terrain to explore the area by bike, available to hire from Bike and Go (0151 955 2028) at Ely Station.

¾SAMPLE the rich variety of music Ely has

¾DISCOVER the Stained Glass Museum, an unexpected gem in Ely Cathedral. Ascend a spiral staircase to the south nave triforium to find the only museum in the UK dedicated to the art and craft of stained glass. Displays trace the inspiration and development of the art form from the 13th century to the present. www.stainedglassmuseum.com

¾WALK one of the many Fenland routes, such as the Bishop's Way, following time-honoured tracks across wildlife meadows used by the Bishops of Ely to reach their palace

Book bag

to offer. Visit the cathedral for atmospheric Evensong with the residential choir (Monday to Saturday at 5.30pm; Sunday at 4pm) or catch one of the classical concerts held throughout the year (www.elycathedral.org/events). There are free live jazz performances at weekends in the bandstand at Jubilee Gardens near the river. The Ely Folk Festival celebrates its 30th anniversary this July. Enjoy an impressive line-up of performers at this family-friendly mini-festival. www.elyfolkfestival.co.uk

¾EXPERIENCE the unique Fenland landscape from the waterways. Hire a narrowboat for a leisurely day's meandering from the town of March to the picturesque village of Upwell or make a longer trip from Ely to Cambridge (www.foxboats.co.uk). From Ely there are short cruises of the River Great Ouse.

¾INDULGE in Ely's delightful shops and galleries. On the High Street, Toppings Bookshop, set across three floors, has a great history section and offers free tea (www.toppingbooks.co.uk). The Eel Catcher's Daughter will also ensnare gift-hunters. Discover Waterside Antiques, the largest antiques centre in East Anglia (www.watersideantiques.co.uk) or the Babylon Art Gallery, both on the riverfront.

Live like a local PHOTOS: © NEIL HOLMES/EURASIA PRESS/GETTY IMAGES/ROLF RICHARDSON/ALAMY

Ely Through Time by Pamela Blakeman (Amberley, £14.99)

A History of Ely Cathedral edited by Peter Meadows and Nigel Ramsay (Boydell, £29.95)

Claire Pople, general manager at Cambridgeshire Philatelic Auctions Working in Ely and living in the nearby village of Stretham, this is what I love: * Ely's fantastic and different markets. I can buy my greens, enjoy the local artists' stalls and indulge my passion for collectibles and knick-knacks. * Meeting friends for a Friday night pint at one of the many independent pubs, the Liberty Belle, Prince Regent or the Fountain, a proper old-fashioned free house on Silver Street. * Spending time by the river, rummaging in Waterside Antiques and letting the children roam free at nearby Pocket Park, a country park with wonderful wildlife.

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TOPPINGS BOOKSHOP, SET ACROSS THREE FLOORS, HAS GREAT HISTORY BOOKS AND SERVES FREE TEA DON'T MISS

MARKET TIME Ely offers fantastic markets, including artists' stalls and those selling fresh local produce

The story of Cromwell in Ely and his championing of its unrepresented citizens continues at the Ely Museum, housed in the former town jail. The relaxed aura of the town today belies some of the harsher periods of its history charted here, from the abbey's sacking by the Vikings (c.870), to the bread riots of 1816 in the aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars. Within close distance of the Norfolk coast, Ely's surf ‘n’ turf produce is the delight of the town. The Ely Food and Drink Festival is a gastronomic extravaganza held each spring, while visitors can indulge year-round at the many local restaurants, delicatessens or farmers’ markets. Throughout the Middle Ages the monks of Ely cultivated vines, and wine and beer production was an important part of their livelihood. Now the city is reviving the tradition, spurred on by specialist venues, such as the Liberty Belle, a micro-pub in Forehill that's full of character, and the rustic 3At3 Real Ale and Craft Beer Café on the aptly named Three Cups Walk. Just outside Ely, the award-winning Elysian Fields Vineyard proudly declares itself the only grape-grower in the Fens. With its rich heritage, vibrant hospitality, sunshine and good-living, it seems the Beacon of the Fens has every reason to radiate far and wide.

8 For more on visiting Ely go to www.britain-magazine.com/ely

PROMOTION

Family

FUN &GAMES Enjoy the perfect day out for all the family at the CLA Game Fair, which takes place at Harewood House in Yorkshire this summer

PHOTOS: © KIPPA MATTHEWS/HAREWOOD HOUSE TRUST/JAKE EASTHAM IMAGES/CLA GAME FAIR

F

or the sixth time in the CLA Game Fair’s 57-year history, the hugely popular three-day show is returning to the Harewood House estate in Yorkshire from Friday 31 July to Sunday 2 August. As the world’s largest countrysidethemed outdoor show, the CLA Game Fair boasts a comprehensive itinerary for the whole family, including gundog handling, clay shooting, archery, fishing, falconry, kayaking and ferreting. For working dog enthusiasts, competitions will take place throughout the show including family favourites such as the Open and Novice Scurry, where dogs compete to retrieve items. Plus every day of the show, terriers and lurchers will go head-to-head in the hugely entertaining Grudge Match; a race that always draws huge crowds as the dogs tear down the track. For those visitors with speedy terriers of their own, there’s also the opportunity to enter the daily terrier race. The attraction pits all types and ages of terrier against one another as they battle it out to be crowned the winner. For enthusiasts of eventing – the sport of equestrian competition – the Main Arena will give way to the exciting Ride-Away Express Eventing on the Sunday. The riders will be seen tackling the

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cross-country, dressage and show jumping, and visitors will have the opportunity to take part in course walks and quiz the riders on all aspects of the sport throughout the day. For those interested in shooting, there will be qualified shotgun coaches on hand to deliver coaching lessons to both novices and more experienced shots. Clay shooters with a competitive nature can take part in a competition run across eight stands which offer different types

of simulated game or sporting targets, and can enter the competition as many times as they like. For those who fancy breaking clays with an instructor by their side, the ‘Pay and Clay’ section will appeal; entrants can buy a ticket for as many stands as they wish to try, or purchase a combined ticket for all eight stands at a reduced price. Shooters can either bring along their own shotgun or borrow one on the day. For three days every year, the CLA Game Fair becomes the seventh largest retail area anywhere in the UK. The Totally Food Show will also celebrate the unique quality and variety of British food through a number of inviting stalls. And if you’d like to upgrade your visit, take advantage of The Picnic Lawn – an exclusive hospitality package, which includes a luxury hamper and picnic blanket to use on the lawn in front of Harewood House. Children aged 16 and under must be accompanied by adults and will be able to visit the three-day show for free this year.

8 For tickets visit www.gamefair.co.uk. CLA Game Fair on Twitter: @thegamefair www.facebook.com/CLAGameFair

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The Bed & Breakfast Nationwide brochure, the Little Green Book, is a comprehensive guide to more than 500 inspected, high-quality B&Bs and a selection of self catering accommodation. Obtain a free copy (+ p.&p.) email: [email protected] B&B information see: www.bedandbreakfastnationwide.com Self-catering information see: www.holidaycottagesnationwide.co.uk

VISITING LONDON??? Comfortable and affordable self-catering holiday apartments in a unique location in St. Katharine Marina adjacent to Tower Bridge and the Tower of London Sleep up to 6. Weekly letting, linen, towels, washer/dryer, TV, telephone, free internet access etc.

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London Waterbus Trips

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155 Sussex Gardens, Hyde Park, London W2 2RY Tel: +44 (0)20 7724 2931 / +44 (0)20 7706 8153 Fax: +44 (0)20 7262 2278 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.albrohotel.co.uk Located near Hyde Park, public transport and convenient for sightseeing and shopping. Comfortable rooms all with TV, private facilities, tea / coffee maker, phone, radio and hairdryer. Friendly efficient service. Quiet, relaxed atmosphere. Some parking. Families and small groups welcome. Tours booked. Luggage storage. Free WiFi Rates per person including cooked English breakfast & all taxes Single rooms from Twin / double rooms from Family (3 or 4) per person from

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Get in touch with your views about the country, your travels and the magazine

OUR FAVOURITE LETTER FAMILY TIES Next, I turned a few pages to see the article on the villages in the Cotswolds. This is one of my favourite places in the UK. My mother’s ancestor Thomas Ricketts and his bride Mary were married at St Mary’s Church, Bampton, in 1730. I visited the beautiful church in 2013 to see where they were married. I was delighted when the vicar informed me that this was the church featured in Downton Abbey, of which I am a huge fan. Thank you for your excellent and informative articles. Barbara Worton, Melbourne, Australia I just wanted to let you know how much I look forward to BRITAIN arriving in my mailbox. I especially enjoyed reading the articles in the Winston Churchill Anniversary Special (Volume 83 Issue 2). It was of particular interest to see the Great Dining Room at Wemyss Castle, Fife (Houses of Nobility), home to the Wemyss clan. My great grandparents’ surname is Wemyss, so this has made me want to revisit Scotland to see the castle where Mary, Queen of Scots, met her future husband, Lord Darnley, in 1565.

BRITAIN REPLIES: Thank you for your letter, Barbara. It’s amazing how something so seemingly simple as a surname evokes such inspiring history. • Our favourite letter wins a limited edition commemorative tin launched by Walkers Shortbread, holders of a Royal Warrant, to celebrate the birth of Princess Charlotte of Cambridge on 2 May 2015, plus an Aberlour Gift Box, named after the company’s hometown in Scotland. (£5 and £22, www.walkersshortbread.com).

PHOTOS: © GL ARCHIVE/ALAMY/ANTHONY HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES

FROM ROYALTY TO HOLLYWOOD On page 65 of ‘The Queen’s Progress’ in BRITAIN (Volume 83 Issue 2) you mention a wealthy Knightley family. I was just wondering if Keira Knightley is any relation? Amy Heyman, Sheboygan, WI, USA

BRITAIN REPLIES: We weren’t able to find any evidence of

a connection between this Knightley family and Keira. If you find one, however, do write to us and let us know. HOW TO WRITE TO US – by post to: Letters, BRITAIN, Chelsea Magazines, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ; or to: Letters, BRITAIN, Circulation Specialists Inc, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484, USA. Or email the editor: [email protected] Follow us on Twitter at @BritainMagazine or like our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/BritainMagazine

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A WELCOME DISTRACTION Thank you so much for the wonderful July issue (Volume 83 Issue 3). It was Wednesday morning when the postman gave it to me before school. Sometimes school in Germany starts around 7am, so my mood wasn’t the best. It immediately changed when I had your magazine in my hands. I started to read it (secretly) in school and it helped me a lot, especially in the history lesson where we were talking about the Battle of Waterloo. I knew every date and the most important facts. Thank you for your unexpected help – thanks to BRITAIN I had a way to escape the boredom of Social Studies. Can’t wait for the next issue. Eva Leinthaler, Munich, Germany

MORE LETTERS... Sadly we don’t have room to publish all of your letters here. To read more go to www.britain-magazine.com/letters

@amandamoribund Good to see Dorset gardens and those behind them getting the recognition they deserve BRITAIN

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BRITAIN’S CHOICE – favourite destinations to explore

20 minutes from Waterloo 20 MINUTES

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    

Village lanes & boutiques Pubs, restaurants & hotels Twickenham Stadium London Wetland Centre Kew Gardens, Richmond Park & Hampton Court Palace

Richmond upon Thames

new feature for 2015:

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Kirklinton Hall and Gardens are open for picnics, walks or just a jolly good rest! Come and see us between 12pm and 5pm weekdays and Sundays between 1st April and 30th September 2015. Saturdays are for public and private events. See website for event details. Refreshments are available, including tea, coffee, Taste of Eden Ice Cream, soft drinks and biscuits.

Kirklinton Hall and Gardens, Kirklinton, Carlisle, CA6 6BB | 016977 48850 www.kirklintonhall.co.uk | [email protected]

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BRITAIN’S CHOICE – discover fascinating heritage attractions

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National Trust Aberdulais Tinworks and Waterfall

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An Industrial Revolution, powered by water since 1584 In 1584 Ulrich Frosse exploited the natural resources of Aberdulais to smelt copper ‘…far from the pryinge eyes of his competitors’. His pioneering work transformed our economy and society as Wales became the world’s first industrial nation – now we’re bringing the hidden secret to life for the whole family to discover. Today you can try on a costume, take on the Tin detective trail, picnic amongst the sound of rushing water, or simply take a stroll and enjoy some retail therapy - At Aberdulais, there’s so much to do in such a small place!

Aberdulais, Neath, SA10 8EU | +44 (0)1639 636674

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

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Open 1st April to 30th September 2015 Contact Info Line 01367 240932 or www.buscotpark.com for opening times

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EXPERIENCE THE GOLDEN AGE OF STEAM TRAVEL

Whether you are taking a trip down memory lane or making new ones, sit back, relax and travel through the heart of the Hampshire countryside by steam train. Popular special events, fine dining and real ale trains throughout the year!

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Enjoy a day out amongst the beauty and craftsmanship of Enjoy this stunning Arts amongst & Crafts house, with lake views, a day out the beauty and Tea Room and Contemporary Craft Shop

craftsmanship of this stunning Arts & Crafts house, with lake views, Tea Room and Contemporary Craft Shop

Open daily 10.30am - 5pm March - October / 4pm November - February Adult Gift Aid admission £8 / £7.25 Standard. Children & students free Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3JT

06/05/2015 16:00

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WWW.ALNWICKGARDEN.COM

www.lakelandarts.org.uk for information Open daily 10.30am - 5pm March - October / 4pm November - February Adult Gift Aid admission £8 / £7.25 Standard. Children & students free Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria LA23 3JT

www.lakelandarts.org.uk for information

To book space call Natasha +44 (0)207 349 3732

BRITAIN’S CHOICE – take a tour and make the most of your holiday

DOWN CATHEDRAL

Built in 1183 as a Benedictine monastery, Down Cathedral is now a Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. Prominent and majestic, the cathedral is believed to have the grave of St Patrick in its grounds. There is also wonderful stained glass and a pulpit and organ of highest quality.

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Open all year round. Monday - Saturday 9.30 - 4.00: Sunday 2.00 - 4.00pm

The Mall, English Street, Downpatrick, County Down BT30 6AB T: 028 4461 4922 E: [email protected]

www.downcathedral.org

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Gainsborough’s House

New exhibition Opens 16 June

THE ART OF BEDLAM

RICHARD DADD

Technical brilliance, fantasy and “criminal lunacy” make Dadd one of the most compelling artists of the 19th century. This exhibition of intricate watercolours and fantastical fairy scenes is the first exhibition of Dadd’s works for over 40 years.

Museum & Gallery

GREAT ART IN SUFFOLK MUSEUMS

6 June to 18 October 2015 Gainsborough’s House is the childhood home of Thomas Gainsborough RA (1727-1788) and displays an outstanding collection of his paintings, drawings and prints. Open daily: 10am to 5pm (Sundays 11am to 5pm) Discover something new at Watts Gallery - Artists’ Village today.

www.wattsgallery.org.uk Richard Dadd. Bacchanalian Scene (1862). Oil on wood. Private Collection

Gainsborough’s House, 46 Gainsborough Street Sudbury, Suffolk CO10 2EU 01787 372958 | www.gainsborough.org

Hidden britain1-4

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Jane Austen

Private Small Group Tours

The Dancing Years

Explore Jane Austen’s early life with Hampshire Ambassador, Phil Howe. Discover the villages, churches, country houses and trace the people she describes in her letters. Tours can include a visit to the Jane Austen House Museum, and the village of Chawton. Enjoy lunch at a Hampshire country inn. An ideal halfday or one-day tour. Downton Abbey Tours when available. 45 mins by train from London Waterloo

For more information Phone: +44 (0)1256 814222 e-mail: [email protected] or visit www.hiddenbritaintours.co.uk

 

England, Scotland and Ireland Experience up to 5,000 years of British history and culture including pre-history, castles, grand houses, battlefields, Roman Britain, architecture, industrial history, scenery, gardens, Shakespeare, Robert Burns, Cotswolds, Lake District, Whisky Tours and much more. Private tours arranged by an experienced and bonded tour guide, self-drive tours also available. Tel: +44 (0)141 638 5500 Website: www.catswhiskerstours.co.uk Blog: www.catswhiskerstours.com Direct e-mail: [email protected]

Self Drive Sightseeing Tours to suit every budget Tours from 3 to 15 Days and easily extended with our FREE Bonuses “Like having a Virtual Tour Guide with you along the way” Book everything else that you need in our “One Stop Shop” Buy the Tour Now and Download the Tour Now

www.tourtheuk.co.uk To book space call Natasha +44 (0)207 349 3732

WHAT’S IN a word?

The word cockney (or Cockney) is both a noun and an adjective, referring to one born within hearing distance of the church bells of St Mary-Le-Bow, Cheapside, in the City of London. Prior to the noise of street traffic, the sound of the Bow Bells reached six miles to the east, five miles to the north, four miles to the west and three miles to the south; the vast majority of the hospitals of London’s East End fall within this jurisdiction. The word has had a pejorative connotation, deriving from late Middle English (14th century) for a ‘milksop’ or ‘cockered child’ (a pampered or spoilt child). Nowadays, to most outsiders a Cockney is anyone from London, and natives – especially from the East End – speak of their ‘Cockney Pride’. Cockney English refers in linguistic terms to the accent or dialect of English traditionally spoken by working-class Londoners. It developed its own ‘argot’ or coded language born out of ingenious rhyming slang; there are as many as 150 terms that are recognised instantly by any fluent rhyming slang user.

Rhyming slang is created by replacing a common word with a rhyming phrase of two or three words and often omitting the secondary word, For example, “I’m going up the apples” means “I’m going upstairs” (from ‘apples and pears’ – stairs rhymes with pears). Likewise, we get ‘telephone’ from ‘dog-and-bone’; ‘wife’ from ‘trouble-and-strife’ and ‘wig’ from ‘syrup of figs’. Sometimes rhyming slang takes the expressions further, with the meaning retained: ‘borrow and beg’ for an egg (a popular term during Second World War food rationing); ‘give and take’ for cake (no cake can be eaten that has not been given and taken); ‘army and navy’ for gravy (plentiful at times in both services); and ‘didn’t ought’ for port wine (based on the reaction of ladies who, when asked to have another, replied they “didn’t ought” to). Adam Jacot de Boinod is the author of The Meaning of Tingo: and Other Extraordinary Words from Around the World, published by Penguin Books, and is the creator of the iPhone app Tingo, a quiz on interesting words.

COCKNEY Talks

Can you guess the correct definition of the following Cockney rhyming slang?

A) More on one side than on the other, ill-balanced, shaky. B) Impulsively; without deliberation. C) Secret, shady.

A) A hangman’s noose. B) One who steals copper from the bottoms of ships moored on the Thames. C) A large playing marble.

3. Mocteroof

(Covent Garden, 1860) A) To doctor damaged fruit or vegetables. B) A tradesman who offers the police small gifts or bribes. C) One who steals loaves from bakers’ baskets when they are in public houses.

2. B) One who steals copper from the bottoms of ships moored on the Thames.

1. Skilamalink (late 19C)

2. Tosher (b1859)

1. C) Secret, shady.

8 For more fun questions on the origins and meanings of English words go to www.britain-magazine.com/quiz 98 BRITAIN

3. A) To doctor damaged fruit or vegetables.

PHOTO: © JOHN WOODCOCK/GETTY

This issue our language expert turns his attention to the amazing lingo that is Cockney rhyming slang

www.britain-magazine.com

all day... all night... all year London to Oxford Frequent departures 24 hours a day

Travel on a stylish new coach from the heart of London direct to Oxford. No Need to Book

Turn up and board

Children travel free*

All day, every day

Oxford Tube Connector ticket for free travel to your onward destination (Ask the driver for a Connector ticket - you just pay the Tube fare)

www.oxfordtube.com

*Free travel is for up to two children, aged between 5 and 15, travelling with one fare-paying adult (excludes Tube 12). The free travel offer is available on journeys between London and Oxford and is not available on journeys between Lewknor and Oxford or London and Hillingdon.

The 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo LIMITED EDITION PRESENTATION

3,000

£80.00

2015 UK £ 5 Silver Proof Coin

Two centuries on and the Battle of Waterloo still captivates. Full-blooded characters, tactical manoeuvres and a legacy – the Waterloo Medal – are all remembered with this striking £5 coin, among the first to bear the new portrait of Her Majesty The Queen. David Lawrence has captured the accord between Wellington and Blücher, pivotal to the victory in his coin, a treasure for collectors and those who wish to explore a decisive battle in British, European and world history. Each coin is presented in a display case complete with Certificate and fascinating booklet.

Order by phone: 0845 60 88 555

Order Online at royalmint.com/P1618B

(For Free UK delivery please enter the Promotional Code P1618B on Your Basket page).

The Royal Mint, PO Box 500, Pontyclun CF72 8WP. Coins shown are not actual size. Coin specifications are available on request. Telephone lines open 9am-6pm Monday - Saturday, closed Sunday). © The Royal Mint Limited 2015 /theroyalmint

@RoyalMintUK

P1618B