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19 I N S P I R I N G JEWELRY DESIGNS INSPIRED DESIGNS FOR THE PASSIONATE BEADER Create Wearable Art Stitch this Play

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19 I N S P I R I N G

JEWELRY DESIGNS

INSPIRED DESIGNS FOR THE PASSIONATE BEADER

Create Wearable Art

Stitch this Playful Beaded Bracelet

p. 62

! s a e d i t a e r G4 Ways to Make

Beaded Bezels

Use pinch beads to make bezels p. 36 ✤ Connect multiple bezeled elements p. 44 ✤ Bezel around a bottle cap p. 53 ✤ Stitch a bezel with bugle beads p. 69 ✤

Our Star-Spangled Issue Make Quick and Easy Peyote-stitched Stars Star-themed Beaded Beads

and

Garden Windows Bracelet by Glorianne Ljubich

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Beco m e a Fa ce b frie n d fo r a ch a n oo k ce a Da z zle- it! p ri z to win e pa ck.

®

make -it shine!

Distributed by the John Bead Corporation LTD. 9055 or email: [email protected] Tel: (416)757-3287 Toll free: 1(888)755 1(888)755-9055 www.johnbead.com

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CREATE YOUR STYLE WITH SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS

Magazine 2012

OU NO T W!

For those who are insync with crystal the 2012 CREATE YOUR STYLE Magazine is fresh off the press. In addition to fascinating designs, easy-to-follow instructions, and essential information on CREATE YOUR STYLE, its pages are packed with elecrtifying content. Discover cutting-edge collaborations with this world’s biggest superstars. Learn about the musical origins of SWAROVSKI and be inspired by breathtaking showpieces. WE PROMISE YOU: THIS YEARS ISSUE SOUND WILL MAKE YOUR CRYSTAL HEART SING!

Scan QR code with SmartPhone App for more information!

WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM

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contents

J U N E /J U LY 2 012 V O L U M E 15 N U M B E R 4

Designer of the Year Projects 24

DECO DELIGHT Diane Fitzgerald Square-stitch an elegant tapered necklace with a variety of flat two-hole beads

28

SQUARED ELEMENTS Sue Jackson and Wendy Hubick Connect square-stitched beaded boxes for an eye-catching reversible bracelet

32

ALL ANGLES NECKLACE Jean Power Peyote- and herringbone-stitch a string of triangles to create this modern necklace

36

DEL RIO TRIO Leslie Frazier Fashion a necklace with dazzling bezels using netting, square stitch, and tubular right-angle weave

Feature 20

15TH ANNIVERSARY BEADED BEAD CONTEST Create the third beaded bead in this year’s ongoing series with Stargazer Beaded Bead by Florence Turnour

Projects 44

JOSEPHINE’S COLLAR Jill Devon

50

TWOFOLD EARRINGS Sue Charette-Hood

53

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY CUFF Christine Wilson

58

SWINGIN’ BUGLE CUFF Cathi Tessier

60

RIGHT ON TRACK BANGLE Sue Charette-Hood

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GARDEN WINDOWS BRACELET Glorianne Ljubich

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AT THE WHEEL Julie Walker

72

INDUSTRIAL CHIC Callie Mitchell

76

SHIMMERING FANS Csilla Csirmaz

STITCH INDEX BACKSTITCH BEAD EMBROIDERY 53 BRICK STITCH 44, 53 FRINGE 14, 24, 50, 62, 69 HERRINGBONE STITCH 32, 50, 76 LADDER STITCH 60, 62, 69 NETTING 20, 36, 72, 76 PEYOTE STITCH 32, 44, 50, 53, 58, 62, 69, 72, 80

PICOT 62 RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE 20, 36, 72 SQUARE STITCH 24, 28, 36, 62 STRINGING 58 WHIPSTITCH 53 WIREWORKING 80

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From top: Twofold Earrings by Sue CharetteHood; Del Rio Trio by Leslie Frazier.

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contents

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44

28

60

76

69

Departments 6 8 10 12 14 18 80 93 94

Passing Through W.O.R.D. (What Our Readers Did) Contributors The Challenge Stitch Pro: Looped Fringe Cool Stuff Simply Seeds Barbara Richard Bead Buzz Techniques

96

Bead Artist: Vladislav Ivanov and Kremena Ivanova Michelle Mach

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PROJECT RATING

on the cover Garden Windows Bracelet by Glorianne Ljubich Page 62

Our three-level project rating system, found on the opening page of each project, is your guide to deciding which projects to make first:

Projects suited to those new to seed beading or to experienced beaders looking for a quick project

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Designs for an intermediate beader, a beginner ready to expand his/her skills, or an advanced beader looking for a project that won’t take weeks to complete

Start here if you are up for a challenge or looking for a detailed project that requires a longer time commitment

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passing through EDITORIAL

Hello, Summer! Are you a seasonal beader? I’ve heard knitters say they make more projects during winter because the cold and short days keep them snuggled up inside. When it comes to beading, I’ve never found this to be true. In fact, I might actually bead more in the summer to take advantage of the natural daylight that’s perfect for seeing those tiny 15°s. The warmer weather also energizes me to do more of everything. I expect the exciting projects in this issue to have the same energizing effect on you. Start by celebrating summer with both stars and stripes! In the third installment of our 15th Anniversary Beaded Bead Contest, mathematician Florence Turnour stitched up irresistible beads with subtle star motifs (page 20). For bolder stars, see Barbara Richard’s Peyote Star components (page 80) that make great earrings or additions to necklaces and bracelets—she even offers up a festive red, white, and blue version. Pair your stars with the stripes that accentuate Cathi Tessier’s Swingin’ Bugle Cuff (page 58) and Sue Jackson and Wendy Hubick’s Squared Elements bracelet (page 28). Are flowers more your style? Then Glorianne Ljubich’s sweet, fun-tostitch flowers framed in Tila beads (page 62) are for you. Flip through the pages of this issue and you’re sure to find a project that makes you happy. Speaking of fun . . . every once in a while my office mates and I step away from our computers, put down our beads, and laugh about all the idiosyncrasies we beaders share. Surely you’ve said such things as, “Wait, I just need to do one more round” or, my personal favorite, “40 hours, $120 in supplies, no, I won’t be selling this.” We think we captured this special brand of humor in our new video, “Stuff Beaders Say.” Search for it on www.youtube.com and enjoy a few good laughs on us! Have fun,

[email protected]

Follow Beadwork on Facebook: beadworkmagazine.com/facebook

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danielle Fox EDITOR Melinda Barta SENIOR EDITOR Jean Campbell ASSOCIATE EDITOR Mallory Zier CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Mindy Brooks, Michelle Mach COPY EDITOR Liz McGehee EDITORIAL INTERN Kate Wilson

PUBLISHING

GROUP PUBLISHER, ART & JEWELRY DIVISION John P. Bolton ADVERTISING MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR, ART & JEWELRY DIVISION Jim McIntosh SENIOR ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Marilyn C. Koponen ADVERTISING MANAGER Debbi Simon CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Monica Turner AD TRAFFICKERS Melissa Marie Brown, Kathy Depperschmidt DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Christan Humphries MARKETING SPECIALIST Jessi Zilk SENIOR VP OF CIRCULATION Bob Kaslik CONSUMER MARKETING BUSINESS MANAGER Tammy Gorham CIRCULATION MANAGER Barbara Naslund

ART AND PRODUCTION

GROUP ART DIRECTOR Gail Olsheski ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Connie Poole PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Trish Faubion PRODUCTION Mark Dobroth, Kate Brown PRODUCTION EDITOR Nancy Arndt TECHNICAL ILLUSTRATION Bonnie Brooks PHOTOGRAPHY/PHOTO STYLING Joe Coca, Ann Swanson VIDEO MANAGER Garrett Evans Designs in this issue of Beadwork® are for inspiration and personal use only. Beadwork does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Beadwork . Nor does Beadwork evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Beadwork. Exact reproduction for commercial purposes is contrary to the spirit of good craftsmanship.

happenings * Bead Three Is Here! Skip to page 20 for

Florence Turnour’s can’t-miss third installment in our 15th Anniversary Beaded Bead Contest series. Visit beadingdaily.com/beadedbead contest for complete contest rules.

For advertising information, call Jim McIntosh at (513) 961-0034, email [email protected].

* Favorite Bead Stitches Is Back! Lookk for our latest and greatest collection of top projects cts from past issues of Beadwork, plus a few neverbefore-seen designs. More than 40 projects total;; available on newsstands July 31.

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For sales information, call (800) 272-2193, email [email protected]. Visit the Interweave website at interweave.com.

* New eBook! Get digital editions of favorite peyote projects all in one package in

our newest eBook, Beadwork Presents 10 Quick + Easy Peyote Stitch Beading Patterns. Visit shop.beadingdaily.com/Q+Epeyote.

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For editorial inquiries, call (970) 669-7672, email [email protected].

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Beadwork (ISSN 1528-5634) is published bimonthly by Interweave Press LLC, 201 E. Fourth St., Loveland, CO 80537-5655. (970) 669-7672. USPS #018-351. Periodicals postage paid at Loveland, CO 80538, and additional mailing offices. © 2012 Interweave Press LLC. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is $29.95/one year in the U.S., $34.95/one year (U.S. funds) in Canada and $39.95 (U.S. funds) in other countries (surface delivery). Printed in the U.S.A. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Beadwork, PO Box 469105, Escondido, CA 92046-9107.

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INDEPENDENT PUBLISHERS SINCE 1975

FOUNDER Linda Ligon CEO Clay B. Hall CFO Troy Wells SENIOR VP, Media and Development John P. Bolton SENIOR VP, Marketing and Communities Bob Kaslik VP, CONTENT Jamie Bogner VP, EVENTS AND EDUCATION Sara Dumford VP, E-COMMERCE David Dunn VP, PRODUCTION Trish Faubion VP, TECHNOLOGY T. J. Harty VP, MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald VP, FINANCIAL PLANNING AND OPERATIONS Dawn Stewart VP, PEOPLE OPERATIONS Aaron Wilmot BOOKS

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FusionBeads.com FREE SHIPPING OPTION! FREE JEWELRY DESIGNS AND COLOR IDEAS TO INSPIRE YOUR CREATIVITY!

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Visit our website interweave.com For retail information, call (866) 949-1646, email [email protected], or visit interweave retailer.com. Have a question about your Beadwork subscription? We have the answer. Visit our website, email, call, or fax your question, and we’ll be happy to assist you. Go to beadworkmagazine.com and click on subscription services for new subscriptions, renewals, gift orders, or to change your address. For questions or concerns, contact us: Email address: [email protected] U.S. Customer Service: (800) 849-8753 Canada and Intl. Customer Service: (760) 291-1531 Fax number: (760) 738-4805 U.S. Mail: PO Box 469105, Escondido, CA 92046-9105

BEADWORK

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WHAT OUR READERS DID

w.o.r.d.

LINDA ROBERTS of Jacumba, California, made this version of Nancy Jones’s Dragon Bangle, which was in the February/ March 2011 issue.

VIRGINIA GUY of University Place, Washington, made this version of Hatsumi Oshitani’s Sleek in Silver necklace from the October/November 2011 issue.

READER’S TIP Instead of stringing the embellished pearls on beading wire as Melinda suggested, I used wire wrapping to connect the elements.

READER’S TIP If I were to make this bracelet again, I might change the number of beaded beads so that they were more staggered when wrapped.

KATIE SAFRANEK EDWARDS of Liberty Lake, Washington, created a necklace using Melinda Barta’s Crystal Rings from the June/July 2011 issue.

GAIL TOWNSEND of Aylesbury, United Kingdom, made this version of Cynthia Rutledge’s Bubble Wrap bracelet, which was in the October/November 2011 issue.

We want to hear from you! If you’ve been inspired by projects in our magazine or have tips to share, email us at [email protected]. Check our website, beadworkmagazine.com, for corrections, announcements, and free projects.

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Clasp OnClasp Off The Artists’ Choice

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THIS ISSUE’S FEATURED ARTISTS

contributors That’s an easy one. I just took a class from master beader Laura McCabe, and she showed us her secret way of attaching new thread. It is the easiest, fastest, and most secure method I have ever seen. Take the old thread and new thread together. Hold both and make an overhand knot. Pull tight anywhere on the thread. Use two pairs of flat-nose pliers and pull each thread in opposite directions. The knot will slide down toward the beads and disappear into a bead hole. Weave the two tails into the work, thread the needle onto new thread, and bead on! —SUE CHARET TE-HOOD I discovered that when I use high-quality materials, I more often find new designs and innovations in my experiments. Now, even when I try out new ideas, I choose highquality beads in colors that appeal to me, so the beads I choose do not obscure the design’s potential. —FLORENCE TURNOUR Learning to compensate has been my most rewarding discovery. Rather than pulling out an ill-fitting cabochon surround, I’ve learned several techniques that tighten or loosen the bezel without starting over. Stitching in the ditch, netting, and increasing or decreasing stitches improve a bezel’s fit and lead to a new design. —CHRISTINE WILSON

“What was your most important beading discovery?”

Maybe the most interesting discovery for me was a beaded d necklace made in the 1950s. I was sure about the maker of the beads, so I went to check the website and found that they still make the beads pretty much the same as they did sixty years ago! —CSILLA CSIRMAZ

One of the biggest discoveries that I have made since I started beading has been the book Color Works by Deb Menz (Interweave, 2004). Even though I’ve been working with color over many years, I get stuck and need help. The color wheel showing undertones with neutrals is invaluable. —GLORIANNE LJUBICH

My most exciting discovery has to have been seed beads. Although I have explored all kinds of jewelry-making techniques and am currently quite excited by PMC and enameling, I always go back to seed beads. They are lovely in all their variety and so versatile. I have personally combined them with metalwork, semiprecious beads, crystals, and PMC and love to work with them just on their own. —BARBARA RICHARD

Want to become a Beadwork contributor?

As a novice beader, learning to control tension was a big hurdle. Several sources pointed out the value of not tying knots in the foundation ring of circular beadwork or right-angle weave. Eureka! Tension can be wonderfully controlled by pulling the working and tail threads in opposition to each other, and the work proceeds much more easily. —CALLIE MITCHELL “What if” has been my road to discovery right from the start, twelve years ago when I first picked up a beading needle. New ideas emerge by changing the bead count within a traditional stitch, breaking the rules of the color wheel, and never approaching a project with preconceived ideas. —CATHI TESSIER

My greatest discovery was FireLine! After using what I now call “horrid” thread for several years and watching my beautiful work disintegrate, I switched to FireLine, which saved my beading career! I know we all have different tastes, but I get discouraged spending time on something and, poof, it’s gone. I love that I can tear it out over and over, and it maintains its integrity. —JULIE WALKER

See our submissions guidelines at beadworkmagazine.com.

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inspired by nature

Get inspired by nature as you explore the delicate, organic, and exquisite nature of polymer clay, the ideal expressive material for any jewelry design. You’ll create unique jewelry and discover the lyrical

Enlightened Polymer Clay Artisan Jewelry Designs Inspired by Nature Rie Nagumo 74 pages :: 7.5" × 9.65" :: $19.95 ISBN: 978-1-59668-634-2

world of polymer clay with 29 unique and artistic jewelry designs.

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FOUR DESIGNERS, ONE STASH

the challenge Jean Campbell, Jennifer VanBenschoten, Justina Coffey, Sally Manzone What happens when you give four people matching sets of materials to play with? We work with products we might not have considered using, and our creative sides get stretched one more notch.

THE RULES: We use our favorites from the materials provided and, where necessary, round out projects with our own supplies. THE STASH: Our opulent kits from Artbeads.com included a mix of seed beads, bugle beads, Tila two-hole beads, daggers, pressed-glass beads, lampwork drops, Silver Silk chain, a Swarovski baroque pendant, and a frosted gold filigree from Kabela Design. THE SOURCE: Artbeads.com, (866) 715-2323

NAME THIS NECKLACE! Visit beadingdaily.com/ beadingchallenge to submit your best title for this necklace and you could win your own Challenge kit!

jean

jennifer

I haven’t worked with Tila beads that much, so I heartily clapped my hands together when I found them in this pretty kit of burgundy and gold materials. To form the pendant, I used the Tilas and a variation of cubic right-angle weave (CRAW). CRAW is something I usually abhor when I have to edit it, so it was especially enjoyable to play with this technique without having to write up the instructions. And come on, that gorgeous bead-filled wire mesh? Definitely worth the price of admission . . . can’t wait to get my hands on more!

I knew right away that I wanted to somehow incorporate chain in my finished piece, but it took me quite a while to figure out how to do it. I worked herringbone stitch with the Tila beads and seed beads, adding one last row with the Magatama beads, and then I stitched the chain to the top of the Tila beads. It really gave the necklace more structure and made the ruffle pop! I loved using the different sizes and shapes of seed beads in this kit because of the way that they add texture to basic herringbone stitch.

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Attention bead artists, retailers, and wholesalers: If you would like to contribute materials and supplies to the Challenge, please contact Mallory Zier at [email protected] or (970) 613-4650.

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Take a bow, Justina and Sally! Justina Coffey and Sally Manzone wowed our editors with photos os of their beaded jewelry, so we invited them to participate in this issue’s Challenge. Want to try your hand at the Beadwork Challenge? Simply emaill a photograph of your best bead creation to [email protected] for a chance to participate. lity information. Visit beadworkmagazine.com/go/challenge for entry and eligibility

justina

sally

I decided to use the seeds, drops, daggers, Tilas, and focal crystal from the kit, then added 4mm and 2.5mm bicones with six shades of Delicas. I used two-needle right-angle weave to form the center piece, then I built up the back to achieve a “puffier” appearance. It being my first time working with Tilas, I wanted to experiment with making an abstract spiral chain. Much love went into making this piece, which is why I named it Noramae in honor of my godmother, who was very spiritual and pure of heart.

This is my first bead challenge. I was very nervous at first, but after sitting and studying the assortment of beads, the inspiration finally hit me, and I had to trust my beading skills to guide me. I love spiral stitch and peyote stitch, so I decided to combine the two in this design. I also love flowers, and I regularly incorporate a floral component into my beadwork.

BEADWORK

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TECHNIQUES YOU CAN' T BEAD WITHOUT

stitch pro { LOOPED FRINGE }

Jean Campbell

You love it straight, kinked, and branched, but have you tried it looped? Looped fringe is not only easy to stitch, it makes a very full, very versatile fringe. Here are four of my favorite ways to use looped fringe.

SIMPLE LOOP

These long, draping loops are a great way to edge the bottom of a bag or to romanticize the bottom of a necklace. I’ve shown it here with seed beads, but this type of fringe looks great with other beads, too, such as fire-polished, pressed-glass, crystal, or pearl. And don’t forget the drops and daggers; they look great at the center of this fringe.

String 15 to 30 beads, skip 2 to 3 beads on the edge of the work, and pass through the next bead; repeat to add large loops along the edge of the work.

TIGHT LOOPS

This technique is the same as above, but because you’re working with a smaller number of beads and making the stitches closer, they naturally twist, especially when you use tight tension. This is a great embellishment for any place you need a full, fluffy fringe. Though seed beads work best to achieve the twist, don’t underestimate the fun of a drop, pearl, or crystal at the center.

String 10 beads and pass through the next bead along the edge of the work; repeat down the edge of the work, allowing the loops to twist on themselves.

LAYERED LOOPS

This is looped fringe, too, but might look more like a tight edging. This is a great way to finish the straight sides of peyote or brick stitch since it covers those unsightly threads at the edges.

Exit up through an edge bead. String 5 beads, skip 1 bead along the edge, pass down through the following edge bead, and up through the previous (or skipped) edge bead; repeat along the edge of the work, taking care to always pass in front of the previous loops.

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JEAN CAMPBELL is senior editor of Beadwork magazine and a jewelry-design artist and teacher. She is also the author of Creating Glamorous Jewelry with Swarovski Elements (Creative Publishing International, 2010) and several other beading books. Jean appears as “Stitch Pro” on the most recent season of public television’s Beads, Baubles, and Jewels. Visit her at www.jeancampbellink.com.

INTERLOCKING LOOPS

String 20 or more beads, skip 1 to 2 beads along the edge, and pass through the next edge bead. *String 20 or more beads (the same amount as the last loop), pass through the previous loop, skip 1 to 2 beads along the edge, and pass through the next edge bead; repeat from * across the edge of the work. Note: Take care to pass through each of the previous loops in the same direction so the twists are all oriented the same way.

This is an eccentric fringe, but especially fetching at the bottom of something round (such as a cylinder bag) because the internal twists become sculptural, much as a cable on a knitted fisherman’s sweater. You’ll want to add more, rather than less, beads in each loop of this fringe; you need more beads per loop to interlock them.

BEADWORK

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We

make it easy for you

This necklace was designed by Leslie Rogalski using the Beadalon 19 Strand Wire, Beadalon Findings, Upper Clasp, Hematite Chain, and Artistic Wire Mesh. Go to www.beadalon.com/BlackRose.asp to find instructions on how to create this necklace. J\Y

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Quality in the Making

Ask For Us At Your Local Bead Store

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®

Create Something Great™

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RETAIL THERAPY

cool stuff

Michelle Mach and Mallory Zier

1. Brighten your beadwork with colorful plastic flower cabochons and beads from MK Beads. Prices range from $2.50 for 2 octopus cameos to $7.50 for a sampler set of 12 filigree flowers. (239) 634-2232, www.mkbeads.com 2. Current Beadwork Designer of the Year, Diane Fitzgerald, shares two dozen of her most cherished designs in Diane Fitzgerald’s Favorite Beading Projects. Spanning Diane’s twenty-year beading career, this collection showcases projects simple and complex, whimsical and dramatic. Lark Jewelry & Beading, $27.95.

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3. This Colorado-made pewter lizard slide from Antelope Beads would be perfectly at home on a beadwoven rope. $16.95. (303) 447-0725, www.antelope beads.com 4. Add some va-voom to your jewelry with these vintage Bakelite components from A Grain of Sand. Items shown range from $2 to $12. (704) 660-3125, www.agrainofsand.com

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5. Make a beautiful necklace with this comprehensive pearl-knotting kit from Rings & Things, which includes silk beading cord, beads, and a knotting tool. Available in 7 colors. $50. (800) 366-2156, www.rings-things.com 6. Selena Anne Wells’s faux ivory beads with intricate carvings look like ancient artifacts. Priced from $15 to $30. www.selenaannewells.etsy.com

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7. Try a new Pantone-inspired mix of resin beads from Natural Touch Beads in shades of tropical blue, canary yellow, taupe, and seafoam. $25 for 7 strands. (707) 781-0808, www.naturaltouch beads.com 8. Never worry about losing a bracelet again! The superstrong MagSafe magnetic clasps from Bead Cats feature a unique locking mechanism. $2.30 for silver-plated; $2.50 for gold-plated. (503) 625-2323, www.beadcats.com

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9. Looking for accessible seed bead projects whose beauty belies their ease? Grab your stash of Delicas and a copy of Bead by Bead, the latest book by bead author Alice Korach. Seven varied jewelry designs invite you to explore beadstitching techniques from odd-count tubular peyote to herringbone stitch. Fox Chapel Publishing, $16.99.

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10. The Hole Bead Shoppe brings on the bling with unusual sequins shaped like flowers and squares. $2 per tube. (918) 338-2444, www.theholebeadshoppe.com

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THE STAFF OF BEADWORK INVITES YOU TO SEND YOUR NEW BEADWORKING PRODUCTS FOR CONSIDERATION IN COOL STUFF. PLEASE SEND ALL SUBMISSIONS TO [email protected] TOGETHER WITH COMPLETE PRODUCT INFORMATION.

BEADWORK

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beaded bead contest BEAD THREE:

stargazer er beaded bead

Florence Turnour

15th

ANNIVERSARY

Enjoy the light captured within these delicate-looking g hollow beaded beads. The crystals connecting the four-pointed stars seem to hover in midair, providing maximum sparkle. This is the third design in Beadwork’s 15th Anniversary Beaded Bead Contest (see box on p. 21).

MATERIALS & TOOLS 3 g dark sage matte metallic size 15° seed beads (A) 3 g copper matte metallic iris size 15° seed beads (B) 4 g dark sage matte metallic size 11° seed beads (C) 4 g copper matte metallic iris size 11° seed beads (D) 2 g denim matte metallic size 8° seed beads (E) 24 brown 4mm crystal rounds (F) 24 light sapphire 4mm crystal rounds (G) Crystal 4 lb or 6 lb braided beading thread Scissors Size 12 beading needle

FINISHED SIZE: 1"

1) BASE. Stitch an inner structure for

Stitch 4: String 1E; pass through the near-

the beaded bead: Stitch 1: Use 4' of thread to string 1F, 1E, 1F, 1G, 1F, 1E, 1F, and 1G; pass through the beads again to form a circle, leaving a 6" tail. Tie a square knot and pass through the first F strung (Fig. 1, purple thread). Stitch 2: String 1E, 1F, 1G, 1F, 1E, 1F, and 1G; pass through the last F exited in Stitch 1 to form a circle. Repeat the thread path again to reinforce. Exit from the first F added in this stitch (Fig. 1, green thread). Stitch 3: String 1G, 1F, 1E, 1F, 1G, 1F, and 1E; pass through the last F exited in stitch 2 and continue through beads to exit from the last F added (Fig. 1, blue thread).

est F of Stitch 1 so the 4E at the center form a square. String 1G, 1F, 1E, 1F, and 1G; pass through the last F exited in Stitch 3 and the first E added in this stitch. Weave through beads to exit from the fourth F of Stitch 1 (Fig. 1, red thread). Stitch 5: String 1G; pass through the nearest F of Stitch 2. String 1E, 1F, 1G, 1F, and 1E; pass through the last F exited in Stitch 1, the first G added in this stitch, and the nearest F/E/F of Stitch 2 (Fig. 2, blue thread). Stitches 6–8: Repeat Stitch 5 three times, connecting Stitches 2 and 3, 3 and 4, and 4 and 1 in the same manner. Weave through beads to exit from the F/G/F of Stitch 5 (Fig. 2, red thread).

8

5

1

4

1

4

2

2

TECHNIQUES 3

right-angle weave variation circular netting

3

7

6

See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

20

Fig. 1: Forming Stitches 1–4 of the base

Fig. 2: Adding Stitches 5–8 of the base

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8

5

4

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2

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3 6

7

15 Anniversary beaded bead contest tthh

1

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Fig. 3: Forming Stitches 9–12 of the base

Stitch 9: String 1E; pass through the

nearest F of Stitch 8. String 1G, 1F, 1E, 1F, and 1G; pass through the nearest F of Stitch 5, the first E just added, and the nearest F/G/F of Stitch 8 (Fig. 3, purple thread). Stitch 10: String 1E; pass through the nearest F/G/F of Stitch 7 (Fig. 3, green thread). Stitch 11: String 1E; pass through the nearest F of Stitch 6. String 1G, 1F, 1E, 1F, and 1G; pass through the nearest F of Stitch 7, the first E just added, and the nearest F/G/F of Stitch 6 (Fig. 3, blue thread). Stitch 12: String 1E; pass through the nearest F/G/F of Stitch 5. Note: The beadwork should resemble a bowl with 2 flaps (Stitches 9 and 11 form the flaps). Weave through the beads at the “rim” of the bowl to exit from the nearest F of Stitch 7 (Fig. 3, red thread).

CALLING ALL BEADERS: We want YOU to help us celebrate our 15th anniversary! Follow along with us and make your own version(s) of each of the five beaded beads featured in our 2012 issues— including Seeing Stars by Melinda Barta (February/March 2012), Cluster Beaded Bead by Gwen Fisher (April/May 2012), Florence Turnour’s bead featured here, and the new beaded beads featured in our next two issues (August/September and October/November). At the end of this year, share a piece of jewelry you made that incorporates at least one of each of the five anniversary beaded beads. The winning jewelry project, which will be chosen by BeadingDaily .com members, will be showcased in the February/March 2013 issue of Beadwork magazine. Deadline for entries is October 26, 2012. Visit beadingdaily.com/ beadedbeadcontest for entry details and rules.

BEAD ONE: Seeing Stars by Melinda Barta

BEAD TWO: Cluster Beaded Bead by Gwen Fisher

Artist’s Tip Since this bead is open and hollow, a beading wire passing through this bead would be visible. Consider stringing this beaded bead on a strand of seed beads to add texture and hide the unsightly wire. Use larger beads on each side of the seed beads to loosely trap the beaded bead in place.

BEADWORK

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5

9

11

13

8

10

7

4

Fig. 4: Adding Stitch 13 of the base

Stitch 13: Turn the work to view it from

the side, with the flaps pointing up and the working thread at the front. String 1G; pass up through the nearest F of Stitch 11. String 1E; pass down through the mirror F in Stitch 9. String 1G; pass through the next F of Stitch 8 (Fig. 4). Weave through beads to exit from the nearest F in Stitch 5. Stitch 14: Repeat Stitch 13 to complete the other side of the beaded bead, joining the other sides of the flaps (Stitches 9 and 11) to Stitches 5 and 6. Secure the thread and trim. 2) OVERLAY. Work circular netting to embellish the base: Round 1: Start 4' of new thread that exits from 1E of the 4E at the top of the base. String 1A and pass through the next E; repeat three times to add 4A. Repeat the thread path once to reinforce. Exit the second A added (Fig. 5, green thread). Round 2: String 2A, 1C, and 2A, then pass through the next A of Round 1 to form a net; repeat three times to add 4 nets.

22

Fig. 5: Adding Rounds 1 and 2 and the connector of the overlay

Weave through the nearest F and G (Fig. 5, blue thread). Connector: String 1B and pass through the nearest G; repeat twice. Pass through the nearest F and E (Fig. 5, red thread). Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 on each 4E face of the base and repeat the connector on each 3G face of the base. Exit from a B. Round 3: *String 2B and 1D; pass through the C at the tip of the nearest Round 2 net (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 1D and 2B; pass through the nearest connector B (Fig. 6, red thread). Repeat from * three times to complete the square face. Weave through beads to exit from an open B of a 3G face. Repeat this round five times to complete all 6 square faces. ✦

Fig. 6: Beginning Round 3 of the overlay

FLORENCE TURNOUR is a mathematician, bead artist, and co-owner of beAd Infinitum, www.beadinfinitum.com. She lives in Long Beach, California, with her husband, her two children, and her beads. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystals and FireLine beading thread: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com. Seed beads: Out On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads.com.

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The Innovative Beads Expo 2012

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BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year

TECHNIQUES square stitch fringe See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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DESIGNER of the Year

deco delight MIX DIFFERENT-COLORED FLAT, SQUARE two-hole

beads to square-stitch a graceful tapered pendant. 1) PENDANT. Square-stitch 2-hole beads to form a tapered pendant: Row 1: Use 3' of thread to string 1B, passing through the left hole, then through the right hole, leaving an 8" tail. Tie a square knot to secure the thread (Fig. 1). *String 1B through the right hole, then pass through the left hole of the B just added and the left hole of the previous 1B. Pass through the right holes of the first and second B to form a square stitch (Fig. 2, blue thread). Repeat from * twice to form a strip of 4B (Fig. 2, red thread). Row 2: String 1B; pass through the right hole of the last B exited and the left hole of the B just added. String 1B; pass through the right hole of the next B of the previous row and the left hole of the B just added; repeat twice (Fig. 3, green thread). String 1B; pass through the right hole of this B and the right holes of the 4B previously added in this row (Fig. 3, blue thread). String 1B; pass through the left hole of this B and the left and right holes of the first B added

in this row. Exit through the right hole of the last B added (Fig. 3, red thread). Row 3: Work 5 square stitches with 1B in each stitch, passing through the left holes of each bead as before. Pass through the right holes of the 5B just added (Fig. 4, blue thread). String 1B; pass through the left hole of this B, the left and right holes of the first B added in this row, and the right hole of the B just added (Fig. 4, red thread). Row 4: Work 5 square stitches with 1B in each stitch as before. Pass through the right holes of the 5B just added (Fig. 5, green thread). *String 1B; pass through the left hole of this B, the left and right holes of the nearest B added in this row, and the right hole of the B just added. Repeat from * twice (Fig. 5, blue thread). String 1A and 1D; pass back

Diane Fitzgerald is a bead jewelry designer, author, and international teacher, but it doesn’t stop there. Diane’s skills are based on formal training in design, color, and communications, and she finds endless inspiration from her students as well. Her twelfth book, Diane Fitzgerald’s Favorite Bead Projects, was recently published by Lark. Visit www .dianefitzgerald.com.

MIKE MALLOY

Diane Artist Fitzgerald Name

MATERIALS 1 g black size 11° seed beads (A) 253 total mix of black and dark bronze 5mm flat, square 2-hole beads (B) 10 light bronze 5mm flat, square 2-hole beads (C) 15 gold 5×18mm decorative metal drops (D) 4 gold 4×5mm oval jump rings 1 gold 6×15mm box clasp 10" of gold 2mm rope chain Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles

FINISHED SIZE: 17¼"

Artist’s Tip By mixing matte and shiny beads, you can create subtle highlights. Similarly, mixing dark and medium shiny beads creates a surface rippling with reflected light.

Fig. 1: Starting Row 1

Fig. 2: Completing Row 1

Fig. 3: Forming Row 2

Fig. 4: Adding Row 3

Fig. 5: Completing Row 4 and adding the first drop

BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year

through the A to form a fringe (Fig. 5, Fig. 6: Stitching Rows 5–7

Fig. 7: Adding Rows 8 and 9

26

red thread). Row 5: Work 6 square stitches with 1B in

each stitch. Weave through the right holes of the last 6B added (Fig. 6, green thread). Row 6: Work 5 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Pass through the right holes of the 5B just added. *String 1B; pass through the left hole of this B, the left and right holes of the nearest B added in this row, and the right hole of the B just added. Repeat from * once. String 1A and 1D; pass back through the A to form a fringe (Fig. 6, blue thread). Row 7: Work 6 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Pass through the right holes of the 6B just added (Fig. 6, red thread). Row 8: Work 6 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Pass through the right holes of the 6B just added (Fig. 7, orange thread). String 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass back through the A and the left hole of the B just added to form a fringe. Pass through the left and right holes of the nearest B in this row, and the right hole of the B just added (Fig. 7, green thread). Row 9: Work 6 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Weave through the right holes of the last 6B added (Fig. 7, blue thread). *String 1B; pass through the left hole of this B, the left and right holes of the nearest B added in this row, and the right hole of the B just added.

Repeat from * twice. St String 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass back through thro the A and the left hole of the B just st strung to form a fringe. Pass through th the left and right holes of the nearest B iin this row, and the right hole of the B jjust added (Fig. 7, red thread). Row 10: Work 10 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Pass through thr the right holes of the last 10B ad added. *String 1B; pass through the left hole h of this B, the left and right holes of the t nearest B in this row, and the right hole of the B just added. Repeat from * three t times. String 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass b back through the A to form a fringe (Fig. 8, 8 green thread). Row 11: Work 11 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Work 1 square stitch with 1C. Work 1 square stitch with 1B. Pass through the right holes of all the B and C added in this row (Fig. 8, blue thread). Row 12: Work 10 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Work 1 square stitch with 1C. Work 2 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Pass through all the right holes of the B and C added in this row. *String 1B; pass through the left hole of this B, the left and right holes of the nearest B in this row, and the right hole of the B just added. Repeat from * twice. String 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass back through the A and the left hole of the B just added to form a fringe. Pass through the left and right holes of the nearest B in this row, and the right hole of the B just added (Fig. 8, red thread). Row 13: Work 13 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Work 1 square stitch with 1C. Work 3 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Pass through all the right holes of the B and C added in this row. String 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass back through the A and the left hole of the B just added to form a fringe. Pass through the left and right holes of the nearest B in this row and the right hole of the last B added (Fig. 9, blue thread). Row 14: Work 10 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Work 4 square stitches with 1C in each stitch. Work 4 square stitches with 1B in each stitch. Pass through the right holes of the B and C

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Diane Fitzgerald

added in this row. String 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass back through the A and the left hole of the B just added to form a fringe. Pass through the left and right holes of the nearest B in this row and the right hole of the last B added (Fig. 9, red thread). Rows 15–27: Repeat Rows 1–13 in reverse to complete the other side of the pendant. Don’t trim the thread.

Attach: Weave the working thread

through beads to exit from the right hole of the increase B in Row 26. Pass through the lone jump ring at one end of 1 chain and pass through the left and right holes of the same B. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Use the tail thread to repeat this section on the other side of the necklace. ✦

2) ASSEMBLY. Attach chain to the

pendant: Assemble: *Use 1 jump ring to attach

one half of the clasp to one end of one 5" piece of chain. Attach 1 jump ring to the other end of the same chain, being sure to close the ring very tightly. Repeat from * using the other half of the clasp.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and Tila 2-hole beads: Caravan Beads, (800) 230-8941, www.caravanbeads.com; FireLine braided beading thread, metal drops, chain, and clasp: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

Options Optio ions on Once you discover scover how easy it is to work row-end increases and decreases, ses, start playing around with other shapes. From zigzags and squares to other unique pendant shapes, these bracelets and necklaces show the possibilities are endless.

Fig. 8: Stitching Rows 10–12

Fig. 9: Forming Rows 13 and 14

BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year

Artist’s Tips • Sue and Wendy save packing material from packages that they receive and recycle them as stuffing for projects such as this one. • To use this technique to make a necklace, alter the connectors to create a curve. Use more seed beads in the lower part of the connector than the upper part. • For a different look, use fire-polished beads or crystal bicones instead of the cube beads for the connectors.

TECHNIQUE square stitch See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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DESIGNER of the Year

Sue Jackson Artist Name and Wendy Hubick

squared elements THIS FETCHING REVERSIBLE BRACELET is made

up of a series of beaded boxes. Use different accent colors on each side for different looks.

1) BOX 1. Square-stitch the first

beaded box: Body: Using 6' of thread and follow-

a

b

c

d

e

ing the color pattern in Fig. 1a, use A, B, and C to square-stitch a strip 7 beads wide and 22 rows long. Connectors: Weave through beads to exit up through the third A of Row 14. String 2D, 1E, and 2D; pass up through the fifth A of Row 14 and pass down through the fifth A of Row 13 (Fig. 2, blue thread). String 2D; pass back through the last E added. String 2D; pass down through the third A of Row 13 (Fig. 2, red thread). Repeat the entire thread path several times to reinforce. Repeat this entire section to add another E between the third and fifth beads of Rows 2 and 3 (marked with red Xs in Fig. 2).

f 1

2

3 4 5

6

7

8

Sisters Sue Jackson and Wendy Hubick have been teaching together for more than eighteen years. They’ve held classes in Mexico, Japan, the United Kingdom, and throughout the United States. Sue and Wendy were among the first-place winners in the 2006 TOHO competition, which won them a trip to Japan. They specialize in using Japanese cylinder beads; their favorite stitches are peyote, square, herringbone, and brick. Visit www.hummingbeads.com or find them at www.facebook.com/hummingbeads.

MATERIALS 10 g black size 11° cylinder beads (A) 5 g gold-lined pearl luster size 11° cylinder beads (B) 5 g chartreuse size 11° cylinder beads (C) 3 g black size 11° seed beads (D) 9 black 3mm cubes (E) 1 silver 10mm (3⁄8") sew-on snap Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread Small amount of 1⁄8" foam packing sheet material

TOOLS Scissors Size 11 beading needle

FINISHED SIZE: 83⁄8"

21 22 18 19 20 14 15 16 17 13 12 9 10 11

g

h Fig. 1: Body patterns

Fig. 2: Adding the first connector

BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year

Fig. 3: Square-stitching the body into a tube

Tube: Square-stitch the short edges of the

strip together to form a tube (Fig. 3). Secure the thread and trim; set aside. Top and bottom: Use 2' of thread to square-stitch a strip 4A wide and 9 rows long. Don’t trim the thread; set aside. Repeat to form a second strip. Top connection: Fold the tube to form two 9-bead-wide faces and two 2-beadwide sides, with the connectors centered at each end. Use the working thread of the top strip to pass down through the corner edge bead of the box’s front face, up through the following edge bead, up through the next edge A of the strip, and down through the following edge A.

30 0

Fig. 4: Stitching the first side of the top to the body

Continue connecting the top along this edge. Exit through the last A at the end of the top strip (Fig. 4). The next edge will require connecting horizontal and vertical beads. Exiting from the corner edge A of the strip, pass down through the edge bead of the box, up through the following edge bead of the box, through the next edge A on the strip, and down through the box bead just exited; repeat along the edge (Fig. 5). Continue stitching around the edge until the top is fully connected. Bottom connection: Place a small amount of stuffing inside the cube, taking care not to distort the shape. Stitch the bot-

Fig. 5: Sewing the second side of the top to the body

tom strip to the bottom of the box as before. Secure all threads and trim. 2) BOX 2. Repeat Box 1, this time using

Fig. 1b and forming the connectors by

weaving through beads to exit up through the third A of Row 14. String 2D; pass down through 1E of Box 1, taking care to orient both boxes so the same accent color shows on one side of both boxes. String 2D; pass up through the fifth A of Row 13, Box 2, and down through the fifth A of Row 14, Box 2 (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 2D; pass back through the last E exited in Box 1. String 2D; pass down through the third A of Row 13, Box 2 (Fig. 6, red thread).

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Sue Jackson and Wendy Hubick

Fig. 6: Connecting Box 2 to Box 1

Fig. 7: Forming the clasp body

Repeat the entire thread path several times to reinforce. Repeat the connection sequence from Step 1 between the third and fifth beads of Rows 2 and 3, Box 2. Repeat this entire step six times to form a strand of 8 boxes, working the patterns in sequence from Fig. 1c to 1h. Fig. 8: Adding the bumper to the clasp

3) CLASP BOX. Stitch 2 halves of a box

and place a snap inside to form the clasp: Body: Using 3' of thread and following the

color pattern in Fig. 7, use A and B to square-stitch a strip 7 beads wide and 11 rows long. Snap: Stitch one half of the snap over the diamond pattern formed by B of the body, securing the 4 snap holes near the corners of the beadwork. Exit from the second A of Row 11 on the same side as the snap, toward the edge. Bumper: String 5A; pass through the sixth A of Row 11, toward the center of the beadwork (Fig. 8). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Note: This row of beads acts as a bumper for the snap so the clasp box will keep its shape when closed. Secure the thread and trim; set aside. Top and bottom: Use 1' of new thread to square-stitch a strip 3A wide and 5 rows long. Don’t trim the thread; set aside. Repeat to form a second strip. Top and bottom connections: Fold Row 3 of the body up at a 90° angle to form a 2A-wide side, taking care that the snap is inside the fold. Using the same tech-

Fig. 9: Forming the clasp

nique as before, sew the top to the place where the 2 sides meet; repeat to add the bottom (Fig. 9, green thread). Note: The top and bottom will only cover half the length of the body. Anchor: Take some stitches across the corners to anchor the angles in place (Fig. 9, blue thread). Connector: Use the same technique as in Step 2 to connect this half of the clasp to the eighth box, taking care to orient the clasp to match the accent color of Box 8

(Fig. 9, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire step, this time using C in place of B for the base, stitching on the other half of the snap, and connecting to Box 1. ✦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Delica cylinder beads and cube beads: Caravan Beads, (800) 230-8941, www.caravanbeads .com. FireLine braided beading thread: Amazon.com. Snap: Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores, (888) 739-4120, www.joann.com.

BEADWORK

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TECHNIQUES tubular peyote stitch herringbone stitch See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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DESIGNER of the Year

Artist Jean Power Name

all angles necklace STITCHED AS ONE LONG chain of triangles, this

contemporary necklace is a showcase of beautiful colors and metallic finishes. Enjoy creating your own color palette to personalize this exceptional piece.

Jean Power is an award-winning jewelry designer, author, and teacher. When not teaching or writing, she loves to combine beads with mixed materials and techniques. She also loves to play roller derby! Visit her website at www.jeanpower.com.

MATERIALS

1) TRIANGLES. Combine tubular peyote stitch with herringbone stitch to form a strand of connected triangles, mixing colors as desired: Round 1: Use 6' of thread to string 3 beads, leaving an 18" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle and pass through the first bead strung. Round 2: String 2 beads and pass through the next bead added in Round 1; repeat twice. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds (unless otherwise indicated) by passing through the first bead added in the current round (Fig. 1, purple thread). Round 3: String 2 beads and pass through the second bead added in the previous round (this forms a herringbone stitch), then string 1 bead and pass through the next bead added in the previous round (this forms a peyote stitch); repeat twice (Fig. 1, green thread).

Fig. 1: Stitching Rounds 1–5

Round 4: Work 1 herringbone stitch

with 2 beads and 2 peyote stitches with 1 bead in each stitch; repeat (Fig. 1, blue thread). Round 5: Work 1 herringbone stitch with 2 beads and 3 peyote stitches 1 bead in each stitch; repeat twice (Fig. 1, red thread). Round 6: Work 15 peyote stitches with 1 bead in each stitch (Fig. 2, blue thread). Round 7: Repeat Round 6 (Fig. 2, red thread). Round 8: Work 4 peyote stitches with 1 bead in each stitch, skip the next bead of Round 6, and pass through the next bead of Round 7 to form a decrease; repeat twice (Fig. 3). Keep the tension tight.

Fig. 2: Adding Rounds 6 and 7

65 g total mix of size 10° cylinder beads in silver-lined peach, metallic olive, opaque lavender, transparent lavender, metallic gold-lined clear, burgundy luster, matte gray, light bronze luster, matte amber AB, lavender rose luster (hex-cut), metallic gold-lined transparent amber, metallic gray, matte bronze, and transparent cranberry luster 1 brass 6×14mm hook-and-eye clasp Gray size D nylon beading thread

TOOLS Size 10 beading needle Scissors

FINISHED SIZE: 17¼"

Fig. 3: Decreasing in Round 8

BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year

Fig. 4: Adding Rounds 9–11

Round 9: Work 3 peyote stitches with

1 bead in each stitch, then pass through the next bead of the previous round to form a decrease; repeat twice (Fig. 4, green thread). Note: All subsequent decreases will be worked this way at the corners. Round 10: Work 2 peyote stitches with 1 bead in each stitch, then form a decrease; repeat twice (Fig. 4, blue thread). Round 11: Work 1 peyote stitch with 1 bead, then form a decrease; repeat twice (Fig. 4, red thread). Repeat Rounds 2–11, continuing to change colors as desired, until the chain of triangles is 2 triangles fewer than the desired finished length. Don’t cut the thread. 2) FINISHING. Make 1 more triangle,

stopping at Round 7, and set the working thread aside. Start 18" of new thread and sew the eye half of the clasp into the triangle so the eye is only exposed when the triangle is compressed; secure and trim this thread only. Use the working thread to continue stitching the triangle, stopping after Round 10. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire step at the other end of the necklace using the tail thread and the other half of the clasp. ✦

Artist’s Tips

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: U.K. source: Fine Lines The Bead Business, www.delicabeads.co.uk. Nymo nylon beading thread, Delica cylinder beads, and all other materials: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Kits: Jean Power, www.jeanpower.com.

• It may be easier to sew the clasp component into the triangle by first sewing each piece to a very short cord, then sewing the cord into the triangle.

34

• To achieve the necklace’s subtle color variations, use a mix of colors and finishes, but change colors only at the start of a new round, not midround. • If making your own hook-and-eye clasp as Jean did, use 22-gauge wire and make the hook very short (1⁄2" or less) and narrow (1⁄8" or less). This produces an almost invisible clasp.

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Make beaded necklaces for any occasion! Download your FREE collection today:

7 Free Patterns for Necklace Making Get Your FREE Projects at: www.BeadingDaily.com/7necklaces

BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year

f

t

TECHNIQ UES netting square stitch tubular right-angle weave See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

Back of large bezel

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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DESIGNER of the Year

del rio trio COMBINE THE BLING OF crystal rivolis and

fire-polished rounds with the simplicity of glass pinch beads in components that come together like magic.

1) SMALL BEZEL. Stitch a bezel for the small rivoli: Round 1: Thread a size 12 needle on 5' of thread; slide the needle to the center and wax the doubled thread well. String 6D, leaving a 5" tail; pass through the beads again to form a tight circle. Tie a square knot and pass through the first D. Round 2: String 2A, 1C, and 2A; skip the nearest D and pass through the following D; repeat twice. Pass through the nearest D and up through the nearest 2A (Fig. 1, blue thread). String 1C, pass down through the next 2A, pass through the next D, and up through the following 2A; repeat twice (Fig. 1, red thread).

Rivoli: Place 1G in the beadwork so it sits

between the D of Round 1 and the C of Round 2, with its face touching Round 2. Pass up through the nearest 2A and through the next C. Pass through the 6C twice, tightening them above the rivoli. Pass down through 2A and exit from 1D (Fig. 2). Round 3: String 10A, skip the next D, and pass through the following D; repeat twice. Weave through beads to exit from the tenth A added in this round (Fig. 3, blue thread). String 8A, pass through the first A of the next net in Round 3, the following D, and the tenth A of the current net; repeat. String 8A, pass through the first A of the next net in Round 3 and the following D (Fig. 3, red thread).

Fig. 1: Stitching Round 2 of the small bezel

Leslie ArtistFrazier Name Leslie Frazier has been teaching beadwork extensively since 1996 at bead stores, national bead conventions, art centers, bead societies, and bead retreats throughout the United States. Since 2003, she has visited Japan four times, teaching many students in Nagoya, Tokyo, Kobe, and Yokohama. Pinch beads have intrigued her since 2001, when she worked with them every day for two months to create multiple geometric beadwoven structures. Lately her emphasis has moved away from pinch beads and incorporated more crystals, but a recent inspiration to combine rivoli crystals with pinch beads evolved into this issue’s design, named for her hometown in Texas. Leslie’s work has been published in The Art and Elegance of Beadweaving and Masters: Beadweaving: Major Works by Leading Artists (Lark Books, 2003 and 2008). Visit www.lesliefrazier.com.

MATERIALS 5 g amethyst size 15° seed beads (A) 5 g amethyst size 11° seed beads (B) 125 gold 4×5mm pinch beads (C) 42 amethyst 6mm fire-polished rounds (D) 5 amethyst 3mm crystal bicones (E) 42 amethyst 4mm crystal bicones (F) 1 gold-foil-back amethyst 10mm crystal rivoli (G) 1 gold-foil-back amethyst 14mm crystal rivoli (H) 1 gold-foil-back amethyst 16mm crystal rivoli (I) Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread Microcrystalline wax

TOOLS Scissors Size 11 and 12 beading needles

FINISHED SIZE: 21½" (with 3½" pendant)

Fig. 2: Securing the rivoli in the small bezel

Fig. 3: Adding Round 3 of the small bezel

BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year Artist’s Tip If you have trouble locating a 10mm rivoli, you could use a 10mm rivoli button instead.

Fig. 4: Adding Rounds 4 and 5 of the small bezel

Fig. 6: Forming Rounds 4–6 of the medium bezel

Round 4: String 1B and pass through

the next D; repeat five times. Weave through beads to exit from the eighth A of a 10A net in Round 3 (Fig. 4, blue thread). Round 5: String 1E, skip the next 3A of Round 3, and pass through 6A; repeat four times, leaving the last space open (Fig. 4, red thread). Don’t trim the thread; set the small bezel aside. 2) MEDIUM BEZEL. Stitch a bezel similar to the small bezel for the medium rivoli: Round 1: Repeat Step 1, Round 1, using 7' of thread and 8D. Round 2: Repeat Step 1, Round 2, to add 2A, 1C, and 2A between each D of Round 1 (refer to Fig. 1). Rivoli: Place 1H in the beadwork so it sits between the D of Round 1 and the C of Round 2, with its face touching Round 2. Pass up through the nearest 2A and through the next C. Pass through the 8C twice, tightening them above the rivoli. Pass down through 2A and exit from 1D (refer to Fig. 2). Round 3: String 9A, skip the next D, and pass through the following D; repeat three times. Weave through beads to exit from the ninth A added in this round (Fig. 5, blue thread). String 7A, pass through the first A of the next net in Round 3, the following D, and the ninth A of the current net; repeat twice.

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Fig. 5: Stitching Round 3 of the medium bezel

String 7A; pass through the first A of the next net in Round 3 and the following D (Fig. 5, red thread). Round 4: String 1B and pass through the next D; repeat seven times. Weave through beads to exit from the fifth A in a 7A net of Round 3 (Fig. 6, green thread). Round 5: String 3B, skip the next 5A of Round 3, and pass through 3A; repeat seven times. Exit from the third B added in this round (Fig. 6, blue thread). Round 6: String 1F and pass through the next 3B of Round 5; repeat six times, leaving the last space open (Fig. 6, red thread). Don’t trim the thread; set the medium bezel aside. 3) LARGE BEZEL. Stitch a bezel similar to the medium bezel for the large rivoli: Round 1: Repeat Step 1, Round 1, using 9' of thread and 9D. Round 2: String 2A, 1C, and 2A; skip the nearest D and pass through the following D; repeat three times (Fig. 7). String 2A and 1C; pass down through the next 2A, then pass through the next D and up through the following 2A (Fig. 8,

Fig. 7: Beginning Round 2 of the large bezel

Fig. 8: Completing Round 2 of the large bezel

blue thread). String 1C; pass down through the next 2A, through the nearest D, and up through the next 2A; repeat twice. String 1C; pass down through the next 2A and through the nearest D (Fig. 8, red thread). Rivoli: Place 1I in the beadwork so it sits between the D in Round 1 and the C in Round 2, with its face touching Round 2. Pass up through the nearest 2A and

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Leslie Frazier

through the next C. Pass through the 9C twice, tightening them above the rivoli. Exit from a D (refer to Fig. 2). Round 3: String 9A, skip the next D, and pass through the following D; repeat three times (Fig. 9, green thread). String 8A, skip the next D, and pass through the first A of the first net in this round and through the following D (Fig. 9, blue thread). Pass through the ninth A of the first net and *string 7A; skip the next D and pass through the first A of the next net, the next D, and the ninth A of the current net. Repeat from * twice. String 7A; skip the next D and pass through the nearest A and the next D (Fig. 9, red thread). Round 4: String 1B and pass through the next D; repeat eight times. Weave through beads to exit from the middle A in a Round 3 net (Fig. 10, blue thread).

Round 5: String 1C and pass through

Small to medium: Use the working thread

the middle A in the next Round 3 net; repeat eight times. Exit from the first C added in this round (Fig. 10, red thread). Round 6: String 1F and pass through the next C of Round 5; repeat eight times. Exit from the first F added in this round (Fig. 11, green thread). Round 7: String 4B and pass through the next F of Round 6; repeat eight times. Exit from the fourth B added in this round (Fig. 11, blue thread). Round 8: String 1A, 1B, and 1A and pass through the next 4B of Round 7; repeat eight times (Fig. 11, red thread). Don’t trim the thread; set the large bezel aside.

of the small bezel to pass through the 1F on the medium bezel that’s opposite the point with no F; repeat the thread path several times to reinforce, weaving through the A at the edge of the small bezel to form the turnaround. Secure the thread and trim. Medium to large: Use the working thread of the medium bezel to pass through 1F on the large bezel, then pass into the 3A at the intersection with no F on the edge of the medium bezel; repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through the large bezel’s C and F of Rounds 5 and 6 to exit from 4B opposite the medium bezel/large bezel connection. Bail: String 4B, then pass through the last 4B exited and the 4B just added; repeat once to form another square stitch. Don’t trim the thread; set the pendant aside.

4) PENDANT. Stitch the bezels together

to form a pendant:

Fig. 9: Forming Round 3 of the large bezel

Fig. 10: Adding Rounds 4 and 5 of the large bezel Fig. 11: Stitching Rounds 6–8 of the large bezel

BEADWORK

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DESIGNER of the Year

5) BEADED BEADS. Right-angle-weave

a beaded bead: Unit 1: Use a size 11 needle and 1½' of

thread to string {1C and 1A} twice, leaving a 5" tail. Pass through all the beads and exit through the second C strung. Units 2–6: *String 1A, 1C, and 1A; pass through the last C exited and the A/C just strung. Repeat from * four times (Fig. 12, blue thread). Unit 7: String 1A; pass up through the side C of Unit 1. String 1A; pass down through the side C of Unit 6. Exit from 1A (Fig. 12, red thread). Ends: Pass through the 6A at one end of the beaded bead twice. Weave through beads to the other end of the beaded bead and pass through those 6A. Weave through all the beads again to reinforce and firm the beaded bead. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Repeat this entire step twelve times for a total of 13 beaded beads. Bail top: Use the bail’s working thread to stitch 1C of 1 beaded bead to the 4B at the end of the bail.

Fig. 12: Forming a beaded bead

Fig. 13: Stitching Round 2 of the clasp ring

7) CLASP BAR. Stitch a toggle bar for 6) CLASP RING. Stitch a ring for the clasp: Round 1: Repeat Step 1, Round 1, using

the clasp:

4½' of thread and 7D. Round 2: String 9A, skip the next D of Round 1, and pass through the following D; repeat twice (Fig. 13, green thread). String 7A, pass down through the first 2A of the next net, the nearest D, and the last 2A of the net just exited (Fig. 13, blue thread). String 5A, skip the next D, and pass down through the first 2A of the next net, the nearest D, and up through the last 2A of the net just exited; repeat once. String 5A, skip the next D, and pass down through the first 2A of the next net and the nearest D (Fig. 13, red thread). Round 3: Repeat Round 2 on the other side of the ring. Exit toward the outside of the ring from a D. Round 4: String 1B and pass through the next D of Round 1; repeat six times. Secure the thread and trim. Set the clasp ring aside.

and 1½' of thread to string {1C and 1A} twice, leaving a 5" tail. Pass through all the beads and exit through the second C strung. Round 1, Units 2–4: String 1A, 1C, and 1A and pass through the last C exited and the A/C just strung; repeat twice (refer to Fig. 12, blue thread, but there are just 4 units here). Round 1, Unit 5: String 1A; pass down through the side C of Unit 1. String 1A; pass up through the side C of Unit 4. Exit from 1A (refer to Fig. 12, red thread). Rounds 2 and 3: Continue to work tubular right-angle weave with C on the sides and A at the top of each unit for a total of 2 more rounds (Fig. 14). Ends: Pass through the 5A at one end of the bar twice. Weave through beads to the other end of the bar and pass through those 5A. Weave through all the

40

Fig. 14: Adding Round 3 of the clasp bar (shown flat for clarity)

beads again to reinforce and firm the bar. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside.

Round 1, Unit 1: Use a size 11 needle 8) ASSEMBLY. Thread a size 11 needle on

6' of thread; slide the needle to the center and wax the doubled thread well. Secure the thread to the clasp ring, exiting a B. String 5A, 1B, and 12A. String {1D, 10A, 1F, 1 beaded bead, 1F, and 10A} six times. String 1F, the beaded bead at the top of the pendant, and 1F. String {10A, 1F, 1 beaded bead, 1F, 10A, and 1D} six times. String 12A, 1B, 5A, a center C on the clasp bar, and 5A. Pass back through the last B added and all the beads previously strung to exit from the first B added in this step. String 5A; pass back through the last D exited on the clasp ring. Secure the thread and trim. ✦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: 14mm and 16mm Swarovski rivolis: Kandra’s Beads, (805) 686-8804, www.kandrasbeads.com. 10mm Swarovski rivolis: Dee’s Place, www.beads bydee.com. FireLine braided beading thread and all other materials: Out On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads.com.

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Another brilliant idea...

Custom Filigree Pieces by Leslee Frumin Ask your bead supplier about

CUSTOM COATINGS & FILIGREE FINDINGS Add new dimension to SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS

Coatings are not supplied by Swarovski

BEADWORK

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BEADWORK

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josephine’s collar JILL DEVON

The weight and gravitas of the substantial beadworked bezel and chain in this opulent necklace evoke the French Bonaparte court.

Artist’s Tip Since each link is stitched together, the strips that cover the connections are purely decorative. If you would prefer the links to be more moveable, omit the connecting stitches.

TECHNIQUES flat and tubular peyote stitch brick stitch See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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1) OVAL BEZEL. Use flat and tubular

Round 11: String 1C and pass through the

MATERIALS

peyote stitch to form a bezel for the crystal oval: Rows 1–4: Use 4' of thread to flat peyote– stitch a strip 66C wide and 4 rows long, leaving a 6" tail. Place the first and last beads of the rows together and stitch the end beads together to form a ring. Exit a bead of Row 4 (Fig. 1). Note: You will now be working tubular peyote stitch, so the rows now become rounds. Rounds 5 and 6: Work 33 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Step up for the next round by passing through the first bead of the current round. Repeat to add a second round of A. Weave through beads to exit from Round 1. Rounds 7 and 8: Place the crystal oval in the beadwork so the front touches Round 6. Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, working off of Round 1. Round 9: Work 1 stitch with 1A, then work 1 decrease by passing through the next A of Rounds 7 and 8 without adding a bead; repeat fifteen times (Fig. 2, blue thread). Note: If the crystal oval isn’t tightly held within the beaded bezel, repeat this round at the front of the work. Weave through beads to exit from Round 4 (Fig. 2, red thread). Round 10: String 1B and pass through the next C of Round 4; repeat thirty-two times to add 33B to the surface of the bezel (Fig. 3, purple thread). Weave through beads to exit from Round 2.

next C of Round 2; repeat thirty-two times to add 33C to the surface of the bezel (Fig. 3, yellow thread). Rounds 12–14: Starting off Round 11, work 33 stitches with 1E in each stitch for a total of 3 rounds (Fig. 3, orange thread). Round 15: Work 33 stitches with 1G in each stitch (Fig. 3, green thread). Round 16: Work 33 stitches with 1E in each stitch (Fig. 3, blue thread). Round 17: Work 33 stitches with 2A in each stitch (Fig. 3, red thread). Weave through beads to exit from Round 2. Rounds 18–21: Starting off Round 2, repeat Rounds 11–14. Round 22: Work 33 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Round 23: Work 33 stitches with 1F in each stitch. Weave through beads to exit from Round 21. Zip: Interlock the beads of Rounds 21 and 15 and weave them together to form a seamless join. Exit from 1G (Fig. 4). Note: Rounds 22 and 23 form a flap that covers this connection. Secure the thread and trim. Set the oval bezel aside.

8 g silver-lined blue size 15° seed beads (A) 8 g light purple size 15° seed beads (B) 5 g matte rose metallic size 11° cylinder beads (C) 5 g matte light denim iris size 11° cylinder beads (D) 10 g matte cornflower luster size 11° seed beads (E) 10 g silver-lined blue size 10° triangle beads (F) 10 g silver-lined blue size 8° seed beads (G) 9 Montana blue 3mm crystal bicones 2 indicolite 4mm crystal bicones 2 aqua 5mm crystal bicones 1 aqua 8mm crystal round 1 foil-backed Montana blue 22×30mm pointed-back crystal oval 16" of denim 4¼" wide silk ribbon Blue size D nylon beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading or sharp needle FINISHED SIZE: 21" (with 4¾" pendant)

6 4

5 3

2 7 1 8

Fig. 1: Stitching bezel Rows 1–4 together to form a ring

9

Fig. 2: Adding bezel Rounds 5–9

Fig. 3: Forming bezel Rounds 10–17

Artist’s Tip

15 22 23 20 2 1 18 1 9

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

When assembling the necklace, take care to position your filled rings so the holes of the crystals point toward the pendant (except for the tiny filled ring at the top of the pendant; that crystal hole looks best horizontal).

Fig. 4: Zipping bezel Rounds 21 and 15

BEADWORK

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Back of pendant

Fig. 5: Stitching the thick rectangle

2) THICK RECTANGLE LINKS. Use flat

and tubular peyote stitch to form thick rectangular links for the chain: Rows 1–3: Use 4' of thread to flat peyote– stitch a strip 36A wide and 3 rows long, leaving a 6" tail. Place the first and last beads of the rows together and stitch the end beads together to form a ring. Exit from Row 3 (Fig. 5, black thread). Note: You will now be working tubular peyote stitch, so the rows now become rounds. Round 4: Work 18 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round (Fig. 5, yellow thread). Round 5: Work 3 stitches with 1C in each stitch and 1 stitch with 2C, then 4 stitches with 1C in each stitch and 1 stitch with 2C; repeat once (Fig. 5, purple thread). Round 6: Work 22 stitches with 1E in each stitch, splitting the 2C pairs of Round 5 (Fig. 5, orange thread). Round 7: Work 22 stitches with 1C in each stitch (Fig. 5, green thread). Round 8: Work 2 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Work 1 stitch with 2C. Work 5 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Work 1 stitch with 2C. Work 4 stitches with 46

1C in each stitch. Work 1 stitch with 2C. Work 5 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Work 1 stitch with 2C. Work 2 stitches with 1C in each stitch (Fig. 5, blue thread). Round 9: Work 1 stitch with 2A. Work 3 stitches with 1A in each stitch (splitting the 2C from the previous round). Work 4 stitches with 2A in each stitch. Work 3 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Work 3 stitches with 2A in each stitch. Work 3 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Work 4 stitches with 2A in each stitch. Work 3 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Work 2 stitches with 2A in each stitch (Fig. 5, red thread). Weave through beads to exit from Round 1. Rounds 10–12: Repeat Rounds 4–6, placing the 2C increases so they match the corners in Round 5. Zip: Interlock the beads of Rounds 12 and 7 and weave them together to form a seamless join. Secure the thread and trim. Set the rectangle link aside. Repeat this entire step for a second thick rectangle link. 3) THIN RECTANGLE LINKS. Tubular

peyote–stitch thin rectangular links for the chain and clasp:

Fig. 6: Zipping the thin rectangle’s Rounds 11 and 6

Rounds 1–6: Repeat Step 2, Rounds 1–6. Round 7: Work 22 stitches with 1D in

each stitch. Round 8: Work 26 stitches with 1D in each

stitch, using the corner E from Round 6 as up beads. Round 9: Work 26 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Weave through beads to exit from Round 1. Rounds 10 and 11: Repeat Rounds 4 and 5. Zip: Interlock the beads of Rounds 11 and 6 and weave them together to form a seamless join (Fig. 6). Secure the thread and trim. Set the thin rectangle link aside. Repeat this entire step three times for a total of 4 thin rectangle links. 4) ROUND LINKS. Tubular peyote- stitch round links for the chain: Rows 1–3: Use 3' of thread to flat peyotestitch a strip 20A wide and 3 rows long, leaving a 6" tail. Row 4: Work 10 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Place the first and last beads of the rows together and stitch the end beads together to form a ring (refer to Fig. 1). Note: You will now be working tubular peyote stitch, so the rows will now become rounds.

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Round 5: Work 10 stitches with 1C in each

stitch, stepping up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round. Round 6: Work 10 stitches with 1F in each stitch. Round 7: Work 10 stitches with 1G in each stitch. Weave through beads to exit from Round 1. Rounds 8 and 9: Repeat Round 5 twice. Round 10: Repeat Round 6 (Fig. 7). Zip: Interlock Rounds 10 and 7 and weave the beads together to form a seamless join. Exit from a G of Round 7. Round 11: String 2A and pass through the next G of Round 7; repeat nine times for a total of 20A. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Repeat this entire step twice for a total of 3 round links. 5) MEDIUM FILLED RING. Repeat Step 4, this time starting with 26B, substituting F with E and G with F. After Round 8, weave through beads to exit from Round 2. String the 8mm round; pass through 1B on the other side of Round 2 and pass back through the 8mm round (Fig. 8, blue thread). Repeat the thread path to securely seat the bead. Complete the other side of the ring as in Step 4, then add a final round by adding 2B between each F (Fig. 8, red thread). Don’t trim the thread; set aside.

6) SMALL FILLED RINGS. Repeat Step 4, this time starting with 16B. After Round 8, connect a 5mm bicone to the center of the ring as in Step 5, then complete the ring. Repeat this entire step for a second small filled ring. 7) TINY FILLED RINGS. Repeat Step 4,

this time starting with 14A. Work Round 5 with F, then add a 4mm bicone to the center of the ring as in Step 5. Use C to work Round 6 off Round 1, then zip Rounds 5 and 6 together to complete the ring. Repeat this entire step for a second tiny filled ring, substituting C with D. Weave the thread of the first tiny filled ring through beads to exit 1C of Round 4. String one 3mm bicone. *String 15A, one 3mm bicone, and 1A; skip the last A and pass back through the rest of the beads just strung, into the last C exited, and through the first bicone added. Repeat from *, adding another fringe with 15A/3mm bicone/1A and 2 more fringes with 20A/3mm bicone/1A. Weave through beads to exit 1F opposite the fringe. 8) LINK STRIPS. Use 2' of thread to form a

flat peyote–stitched strip 3D wide and 44 rows long. Note: This may be done with odd-count peyote stitch or by forming a peyote-stitched strip 2D wide and 44 rows long, then adding a brick-stitched row

7 6 5 3 1 9

4 2 8 10

Fig. 7: Stitching the round link

along the straight edge. Don’t trim the thread; set aside. Repeat this step five times for a total of 6 link strips. 9) RIBBON STRIPS. Use 2' of thread to

form a flat peyote–stitched strip 3D wide and 28 rows long. Don’t trim the thread; set aside. Repeat this entire step three times for a total of 4 ribbon strips. 10) CLASP BARS. Peyote-stitch and

embellish a double-ended clasp bar: Tube: Use 3' of thread to form a flat

peyote–stitched strip 14D wide and 10 rows long. Interlock the first and last rows and stitch the beads together to form a seamless tube. Exit from an end D. Ends: String one 3mm bicone and 1A; pass back through the bicone, down through the next end D, and up through the following end D. Pass through the bicone and A, back through the bicone, down through the following end D, and up through the following end D. String 3A; pass down through the next end D and weave through the tube beads to exit up through the third A just added. String 2A, pass down through the following end D, weave through tube beads to exit up through the second A just added (Fig. 9); repeat twice. String 1A; pass down through the first A added in this section. Weave through tube beads to exit from 1D at the other end of the tube. Repeat this section to embellish the other end. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire step for a second clasp bar, but don’t trim the thread. Weave through beads to exit from the eighth D on the tube’s body.

Fig. 8: Filling and finishing the medium filled ring

Fig. 9: Adding the edging to one end of the clasp bar

BEADWORK

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Fig. 10: Stitching the clasp-bar connector

Fig. 11: Adding a round link to the top of the bezel

Connector: String 1D; pass back through

the seventh D on the tube’s body. String 1D and pass back through the D just added; repeat twenty-two times to form a strip 24 rows long (Fig. 10, blue thread). Stitch the end of the strip to the seventh and eighth D on the first tube’s body. Secure the thread; set the clasp bar aside. 11) ASSEMBLY. Stitch the components

together, using the extra working threads, then cover the chain with link strips: Pendant top: Stitch 1 round link to the oval bezel, stitching through 1E/2A/1E at the top of the bezel’s Round 22 and 1G at the bottom of the ring to form a strong connection (Fig. 11). Secure the thread and trim. Neatly stitch the nonfringed tiny filled ring to the top front of the oval bezel and to the bottom of the round link just placed to cover the connection just made. Secure the thread and trim.

48

Fig. 12: Stitching together the pendant components

Pendant bottom: Use the working thread

Chain: Weave the working thread of a

of the medium filled ring to string 2A; pass through 1E/1G/1E on the back bottom of the oval bezel. String 2A; pass through the last 2A exited on the medium filled ring (Fig. 12, green thread). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Use the working thread of the remaining tiny filled ring to string 1A; pass through the bottom F of the medium filled ring, taking care that the fringe is opposite the stitch point, then string 1A and pass through the last F exited on the tiny filled ring (Fig. 12, blue thread). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Pendant sides: Connect 1G at the edge of 1 small filled ring to the 5 o’clock position on the oval bezel, using the same technique as with the medium filled ring, this time just connecting with 1A on each side of the connection. Repeat to add the final small filled ring to the 7 o’clock position (Fig. 12, red thread).

thick rectangle link through beads to exit from 2A at the center of one side. String 1A; pass through 2A in the upperright side of the round link at the top of the pendant. String 1A and pass through the last 2A exited on the thick rectangle link (Fig 13). Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this attachment technique to connect a round link to the other side of the thick rectangle link just added, then a thin rectangle link to the other side of the round link just added. Repeat this entire chain section to add another chain to the upper-left side of the round link at the top of the pendant. Links: Pass 1 link strip through the round link at the top of the pendant and the thin rectangle link on the right. Interlock the first and last rows of the strip and weave the beads together to form a seamless ring. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this technique to cover all the connections on both sides of the chain.

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Detail of clasp

Artist’s Tips • Because the necklace is such a dramatic statement, Jill chose to tone it down with quiet colors like denim blue and subtle shades of mauve. This allows the piece to be casually wearable, as would olive green with gray or amethyst with brown. To garner more attention, choose bold colors to match the dynamism of the piece. • If you’d like to make the piece longer, you don’t need to bead a clasp; just add one long piece of ribbon at the back. Alternatively, you could omit the ribbon entirely and bead a chain for the entire necklace.

Fig. 13: Making the first connection on the chain

Ribbon: Cut the ribbon into two 8" pieces.

Pass the end of 1 piece through the thin rectangle link at one end of the chain and fold it back on itself ½". Arrange the fold and rest of the ribbon so it bunches up neatly. Tack the ribbon in place with a few stitches. Wrap a ribbon strip around the spot where the ribbon end meets the ribbon, interlocking the first and last rows; weave the beads together to form a seamless tube (Fig. 14). Exit from an edge D; add the same brickstitch edging as on the clasp bar (refer to Fig. 9), occasionally sewing into the ribbon to secure the strip in place. Secure the thread and trim. Place the other end of the same piece of ribbon through one of the remaining thin rectangle links. Fold the ribbon back and add and embellish a ribbon strip as before. Repeat this entire ribbon section to complete the other side of the necklace. Clasp: Place 1 clasp bar through each of the thin rectangle links at the end of the necklace to close. ✦ JILL DEVON is the owner of The Bead Merchant in Colchester, England, founder of The Beadworkers Guild, and is coeditor with Liz Thornton of their very popular Introduction to Beadwork series (Beadworkers Guild, 2000). She and Liz have also written and published The Beader’s Floral (2beadwrite, 2007). Download her designs at www.jilldevon.com and purchase her kits at Bead Merchant, www.bead merchant.co.uk.

Fig. 14: Zipping together the ribbon strip

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Miyuki seed beads, Swarovski oval (article #4127), rounds, and bicones: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Delica cylinder beads: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com. Nymo nylon beading thread: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com. Hanah ribbon: M&J Trimming, (800) 965-8746, www.mjtrim.com. U.K. source for all materials: Bead Merchant, www.beadmerchant.co.uk.

BEADWORK

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twofold earrings SUE CHARETTE-HOOD

Stitch a square with herringbone and peyote stitches, then fold it over, zip the sides with crystals, and voilà—a unique pair of triangular earrings is born.

Artist’s Tip Tight tension is not always the way to go. Use rather loose tension while stitching the base. Otherwise, a few beads may break as you fold the earring.

TECHNIQUES circular peyote stitch herringbone stitch fringe See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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1) SQUARE BASE. Peyote- and herring-

Round 6: Work 1 herringbone stitch with

MATERIALS

bone-stitch a square to form the base of the component: Round 1: Use 3' of thread to string 4A, leaving a 6" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle and pass through the first bead strung. Round 2: String 1B and pass through the next A of Round 1; repeat three times for a total of 4B. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round (Fig. 1, blue thread). Round 3: String 3A, pass through the next B of Round 2, and adjust the second A strung so it touches the nearest A of Round 1; repeat three times (Fig. 1, red thread). Round 4: *String 2A; skip 1A of Round 3 and pass through the next. Work 1 peyote stitch with 1B. Repeat from * three times (Fig. 2, green thread). Round 5: String 2A and pass through the second 2A added in the previous round (this forms a herringbone stitch), then work 2 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times (Fig. 2, blue thread).

2A and 3 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times (Fig. 2, red thread). Note: The beadwork will begin to curl as the number of peyote stitches increases. Round 7: Work 1 herringbone stitch with 2A and 4 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times (Fig. 3, brown thread). Round 8: Work 1 herringbone stitch with 2A and 5 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times (Fig. 3, orange thread). Round 9: Work 1 herringbone stitch with 2A and 6 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times purple thread). Round 10: Work 1 herringbone stitch with 2A and 7 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times (Fig. 3, green thread). Round 11: Work 1 herringbone stitch with 2A and 8 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times (Fig. 3, blue thread). Round 12: Work 1 herringbone stitch with 2A and 9 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat three times (Fig. 3, red thread).

2 g metallic light bronze iris size 11° cylinder beads (A) 2 g magenta-lined clear AB size 11° cylinder beads (B) 40 dark smoky topaz 3mm crystal bicones (C) 2 smoky topaz 8mm crystal bicones 1 pair of ¾" brass ear wires Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 11⁄4 × 17⁄8"

2) FINISHING. Zip up the edges with crys-

tals, create a fringe, and add an ear wire: Zipping the first edge: Fold the square of

beadwork into a triangle so opposite corners touch. Weave the working thread through beads and exit a B near the corner at the folded edge. String 1C and pass through the corresponding B on the opposite edge. Pass back through the C and the next B along the starting edge. Repeat, connecting the beads along the

Fig. 1: Stitching the first 3 rounds

Option

Fig. 2: Adding Rounds 4–6

Fig. 3: Working Rounds 7–12

For a matching pendant, attach a jump ring to the top loop instead of an ear wire.

BEADWORK

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Ear wire: Weave the tail thread through

Fig. 5: Creating the dangle

Fig. 4: Zipping the edges with crystals

edges with crystals. Stop at the bottom point (Fig. 4). Crystal fringe: Exit an A at the bottom of the triangle. String 1B, 1C, 1B, one 8mm crystal, 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass back through the 8mm crystal. String 1B, 1C, and 1B; pass through the A on the opposite edge of the bottom point (Fig. 5). Repeat the thread path to reinforce the fringe. Zipping the second edge: Zip the remaining edge closed to match the finished section. Secure the thread and trim.

beads to exit an A of Round 1. String 3A, 1 ear wire, and 3A; pass through the corresponding A on the opposite side of the starting round (Fig. 6). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. 3) Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for a second

earring. ✦ SUE CHARETTE-HOOD, an award-winning jewelry artist living in Texas, has been designing and teaching since 1999. She works with many different media, but kumihimo and bead stitching are her loves. Sue is a member of the San Antonio Bead Society, Dallas Bead Society, Great Lakes Beadworkers Guild, and the Etsy Bead Weavers Team. She teaches at her local bead shop, the Texas and Shreveport bead retreats, and more. Visit www.crystalwonders .etsy.com.

Fig. 6: Adding the loop and ear wire

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread, Swarovski bicones, Delica cylinder beads, and all other materials: Originals Beads & Gems, (210) 490-7625, www.originalstexas.com, or Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com.

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bohemian rhapsody

CHRISTINE WILSON

Get ready to have a lot of fun making and wearing this lively colored cuff, featuring a bottle cap cabochon and a sassy laced-ribbon closure.

TECHNIQUES backstitch bead embroidery tubular peyote stitch brick-stitch edging whipstitch See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

Artist’s Tips • Some other great fabric choices include laminated cotton, oilcloth, twill ribbon, remnants, or even recycled fabric from clothing. • Vary the bezel edging by replacing the drops in the cabochon embellishment with crystal bicones. You could also work three-bead picots there instead of drops. • Peltex one-sided ultrafirm interfacing was used as the foundation here, as it fuses nicely to cotton; however, a nonfusible should be used for fabrics sensitive to heat. Choose a foundation that is heavyweight or use more than one layer. • Make sure the eyelets are solid and not notched. Notched eyelets will split rather than fold down when set and can be abrasive against skin.

BEADWORK

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2

MATERIALS 2 g purple AB size 15° seed beads (A) 2 g transparent fuchsia luster size 15° seed beads (B) 2 g turquoise luster size 15° seed beads (C) 2 g copper metallic size 15° seed beads (D) 2 g coral size 11° cylinder beads (E) 2 g rose-lined clear size 11° seed beads (F) 2 g red-striped orange size 11° seed beads (G) 2 g metallic light copper size 11° seed beads (H) 5 g silver-lined pink size 11° seed beads (I) 18 fuchsia-lined smoky amethyst 3×4mm drops (J) 1 light brown 25mm wood button with 2 wide holes and 1 small hole 6 dark orange 8mm eyelets 6 dark orange 8mm eyelet washers 1 antique brass 9mm thick jump ring 1 silver 12mm star charm 1 orange bottle cap 28mm cabochon White 6 lb or 8 lb braided beading thread Orange size D nylon beading thread 2½ × 6¾" piece of fabric to complement beads 17⁄8 × 6¼" piece of beading foundation 2½ × 8¾" piece of dark orange Ultrasuede 3' of 12mm silk ribbon to match fabric Fabric glue Wooden craft stick Fabric protection spray

TOOLS Scissors or rotary cutter Appliqué or cuticle scissors Pen Size 11 or 12 beading needle Size 12 sharp needle Bracelet mandrel or round cardboard form Rubber bands Hole punch or awl Eyelet setter Small hammer Circle template (optional) FINISHED SIZE: 21⁄8" wide; adjustable length

5

through the second E. Repeat from * to work backstitch bead embroidery around the entire cabochon, taking 1 7 4 care that the final bead number is even. Fig. 1: Folding the base corners Exit from the first E added. Note: There are 72E in Rounds 1 and 2 on the 1) BASE. Assemble and stitch the bracepiece shown. let’s foundation: Round 3: String 1E, skip 1E of the starting Prepare: Round off the corners of the circle, and pass through the next E; fabric and beading foundation with repeat around to work tubular peyote appliqué or cuticle scissors. Glue the stitch. Step up for the next and subsefoundation to the wrong side of the quent rounds by passing through the fabric leaving at least a ¼" margin all first bead added in the current round around. Let dry. Apply a thin layer of unless otherwise specified. glue to the back of the excess fabric Round 4: Work tubular peyote with 1E in using a craft stick and fold over to form each stitch. If this round meets the top a turned edge. Work the ends first, of the cabochon, move to Round 5; if mitering the corners and holding in not, repeat this round once. place until the glue holds. Note: The Round 5: Work tubular peyote stitch with edge-folding order is shown in Fig. 1. 1A in each stitch. Spray the right side of the fabric with a Round 6: Work tubular peyote stitch with light coat of fabric protection spray; let 1G in each stitch. dry thoroughly. Round 7: Work tubular peyote stitch with Cabochon: Center the cabochon on top 1B in each stitch. of the fabric and use the pen to draw a Round 8: Alternate 1 tubular peyote stitch circle around the bottle cap that’s just with 1B and 1 tubular peyote stitch with slightly larger than the cap. Glue the 1E. Exit from 1E added in this round. cabochon to the fabric in the center of Round 9: String 1H and pass through the the circle. next E of Round 8; repeat around. Exit from 1H of this round. 2) BEZEL. Backstitch and peyote-stitch a Round 10: *String 1B and 1F; pass through bezel for the cabochon: the next H of Round 9. String 1F and 1B; Rounds 1 and 2: Tie an overhand knot at pass through the following H of Round 9. the end of 3' of white thread. Place a Repeat from * around; exit from 1F that beading needle on the thread and pass points toward a B/H/B sequence. up through the base to exit on the line Round 11: String 4C and pass through the around the cabochon. *String 2E; lay the next F/H/F; repeat around (Fig. 2, red thread). Weave through beads to beads on the line and pass down through the base where the thread exits exit from 1E of Round 8 that sits under the second E. Pass up through the base 1F of Round 10, then pass through the to exit between the 2E, then pass nearest B of Round 7. 3

Fig. 2: Stitching Rounds 1–10 of the bezel

54

8

6

Fig. 3: Adding Rounds 12 and 13 of the bezel

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Fig. 5: Placing the eyelets

Fig. 4: Setting the eyelets

Round 12: String 1D and pass through

the next B of Round 7, E of Round 8, and the following B of Round 7; repeat around to stitch in the ditch. Weave through beads to exit from Round 2 (Fig. 3, green thread). Round 13: String 1A and pass through the next E of Round 2; repeat around to stitch in the ditch. Exit from Round 3 (Fig. 3, blue thread). Round 14: String 2A, 1J, and 2A; skip 1E of Round 3 and pass through the next E; repeat around (Fig. 3, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. 3) BACKING. Spread a thin layer of glue on the back (foundation side) of the cuff. Lay the Ultrasuede on the glued side. Smooth out the fabric, taking care that the glue doesn’t seep and centering it carefully to ensure you have the same amount of excess Ultrasuede on each end. Wrap only the excess Ultrasuede at the ends around to the front of the cuff and glue in place. Let slightly dry, then secure it around a bracelet mandrel or bracelet-size cardboard form with rubber bands. Once completely dry, trim the long edges of the Ultrasuede close to the fabric’s edge. 4) CLASP. Set eyelets and add a ribbon

to form the clasp: Holes: Use the hole punch or awl to form

1 hole that’s wide enough to accommo-

Fig. 6: Brick-stitching Row 1 of the edging

date an eyelet at each corner of the base, ¼" from the edges. Add 1 hole between each 2 holes at the ends, measuring halfway between the 2 holes already placed. Eyelets: Place the flared side of the eyelet through the first hole, from the fabric side out through the back. Place a washer over the exposed eyelet tube. Place the eyelet tool into the tube and hit gently with a small hammer until the tube flares out and over the washer (Fig. 4). Remove the tool and gently tap the new flared edge with the hammer until snug. Repeat to set all 6 eyelets (Fig. 5). 5) EDGING. Brick- and whipstitch the

cuff’s edge: Row 1: Using the sharp needle, secure the

end of 3' of orange thread between the Ultrasuede and base. Exit from the very edge of the base’s folded edge. String 2I, pass through the Ultrasuede and base 2 bead’s width from the last stitch, and pass back up through the second I just added (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 1I, pass through the Ultrasuede and base, 1 bead’s width from the last stitch, and pass back up through the I just added (Fig. 6, red thread); repeat around the entire perimeter of the cuff (including the folded portion of the Ultrasuede at the ends), then stitch the first and last I together. Exit up through 1I.

Fig. 7: Whipstitching Row 2 of the edging

Row 2: Loop the thread under the nearest

thread loop between 2I. String 1C and pass under the thread loop of the next 2I from the previous row (Fig. 7); repeat around the cuff edge. Secure the thread and trim. 6) ASSEMBLY. Use the jump ring to attach the star charm to the small hole on the button. Use the ribbon to lace the ends of the cuff like shoelaces. Pass the ribbon ends through the large buttonholes. Tie the ribbon into a bow. ✦ CHRISTINE WILSON retired from a career as a financial controller to raise her beautiful daughter, Heidi. She has been creating jewelry for more than seven years, and she credits her friend Pari Baron for starting her on this amazing journey. She serves as newsletter editor for the Great Lakes Beadworker’s Guild. Her bottle cap obsession began with a class from Mary Hettmansperger. Visit www.christines beadworks.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Kits, bottle cap cabochons, and bottle cap cabochon tutorial: Christine Wilson, www .christinesbeadworks.etsy.com. Seed beads and drops: T & T Trading, www.tttbeads.com. Star charm: Pam’s Bead Garden, www.pamsbeadgarden.com. Jump ring: Blue Buddha Boutique, (866) 602-7464, www.bluebuddhaboutique.com. Scotch Guard fabric protection spray: Ace Hardware, (866) 290-5334, www.acehardware.com. Fusible interfacing, Aileene’s Fast Grab Tacky glue, and buttons: Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores, (888) 739-4120, www.joann.com. Ultrasuede and fabric: Field’s Fabric, (800) 678-5872, www.fieldsfabricsonline.com. Eyelets: Volcano Arts, www.volcanoarts.com. Eyelet washers: Eyelet Outlet, (603) 319-8392, www.eyeletoutlet.com. Silk ribbon, www.colorkissedsilk.etsy.com.

BEADWORK

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swingin’ bugle cuff C AT H I T E S S I E R

Suspend strands of bugle and seed beads between panels of peyote stitch for a flirty and playful bracelet.

Artist’s Tips • To adjust the size of the bracelet, change the length of the bugle strands and/or the number of rows forming the peyote-stitch panels. • When working with bugle beads, be sure to use a strong, high-quality beading thread so the bugles’ sharp edges won’t easily cut through it.

TECHNIQUES stringing peyote stitch

• Secure the thread by weaving through beads in the center of your work. That way, the bracelet’s edges will have a smooth, clean finish with minimal exposed thread.

See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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1) STRANDS. String a pattern of bugle beads and cylinder beads interspersed with picots: Strand 1: Use 12' of thread to string 2A; pass back through the first bead strung, leaving a 40" tail (Fig. 1). Note: Wind the tail thread around the bobbin to keep it out of the way as you work. String 1A. String {1D and 1B} eleven times. String 1D and 3A; pass back through the second A just strung (Fig. 2). Strand 2: String 1A and 1E. String {1B and 1D} eleven times. String 3A; pass back through the second A just strung. Strand 3: String 1A. String {1D and 1B} ten times. String 1E, 1B, 1E, and 3A; pass back through the second A just strung. Strands 4–13: Repeat Strands 2 and 3 five times, substituting 1D with 1E on each strand, with the color fading from silver to gold in the established pattern. Keep the beads snug on each strand. Weave through beads to exit the starting end of Strand 13.

Fig. 1: Starting Strand 1

2) END PANELS. Connect the strands

MATERIALS

and work peyote-stitch segments: Rows 1 and 2: Arrange the 13 stands so they’re parallel and the 7 end As are lined up at each end. String 1A and pass through the end A of the next strand; repeat six times, adding 1A between each end A for a total of 7A (Fig. 3). Row 3: Work peyote stitch with 1A in each stitch for a total of 7A. Rows 4 and 5: Work 7 stitches with 1B in each stitch for a total of 2 rows. Rows 6 and 7: Work 7 stitches with 1A in each stitch for a total of 2 rows. Rows 8–23: Repeat Rows 4–7 four times. Row 24: Pass through the loop of exposed thread at the outer edge of the beadwork below the last bead exited. Pass back through the last bead exited and the last bead added to form a turnaround. Work 1A in each stitch for a total of 6A (Fig. 4, green thread). Row 25: Work a turnaround as before, passing back through the last bead exited and the last bead added. Work 1A in each stitch for a total of 5A (Fig. 4, blue thread). Rows 26–29: Repeat Rows 24 and 25 twice, reducing the number of beads added in each row by 1 and replacing the 1A in Row 29 with 1C (Fig. 4, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. Remove the bobbin from the tail thread and repeat this entire step on the other end of the bracelet.

5 g silver-lined clear AB size 11° seed beads (A) 10 g silver-lined pink satin size 11° seed beads (B) 2 silver-lined clear size 8° seed beads (C) 10 g silver-lined clear 4mm (size 2) bugle beads (D) 10 g silver-lined gold 4mm (size 2) bugle beads (E) 2 gold-filled 6mm jump rings 1 gold-plated 13mm toggle clasp Smoke or crystal 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 10 beading needle No-Tangle thread bobbin 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 6¼"

Clasp: Use 1 jump ring to connect 1C to

one half of the clasp. Repeat with the remaining jump ring and other half of the clasp at the other end of the bracelet. CATHI TESSIER is the founder of the Guild of American Beaders. She has been teaching beadwork classes for more than twelve years at library teen programs, multicultural senior programs, and home parties. Visit her website at www.lingeringbead.weebly.com or email her at [email protected]. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread and all other materials: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2319, www.firemountaingems.com.

Fig. 2: Completing Strand 1

Fig. 3: Forming Rows 1 and 2

Fig. 4: Tapering a peyote-stitch panel

BEADWORK

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A

right on track bangle

•S •

SUE CHARETTE-HOOD

•T

Two-hole beads provide the perfect structure and body for this sturdy, fashionable bangle. Embellish the outer edge with crystals for a colorful and sparkling accessory.

TECHNIQUE ladder stitch See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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ARTIST’S TIPS

MATERIALS

• Start with any comfortable length of thread and add more thread as needed. • Hold the 2-hole beads flat between your thumb and first finger while stitching. Each new bead should always fit right against its neighbor without any gaps. • To avoid breaking beads, never force your needle through a tight-fitting hole. Instead, switch to a smaller needle.

1) BRACELET SEGMENTS. Form a

dimensional bangle using 2-hole beads, seed beads, and crystals: Base: Use 6' of thread and the size 10 needle to form a ladder-stitched strip 40D long, leaving a 6" tail (Fig. 1). Connect the last bead to the first and exit the right hole of the first base bead. Note: Try on the bangle to make sure it fits over the widest part of your hand; add or remove beads as necessary to adjust the length. Stitch 1: String the left hole of 1D, 2A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 2A, and the left hole of 1D. Pass through the right hole of the base D the thread is exiting (Fig. 2, blue thread). Keep the tension tight. Note: The 2 Ds added in this stitch are the first of the side Ds. Stitch 2: Pass up through the right hole of the first D added in Stitch 1. String 2A; pass through the 1B/1C/1B added in Stitch 1. String 2A; pass down through

the right hole of the second D added in Stitch 1, pass through the left hole of the next base D, and exit through the right hole of the base D just entered (Fig. 2, red thread). Stitches 3–40: Repeat Stitches 1 and 2 around the base. Connecting the stitches: Weave through beads to exit the right hole of the first side D added in Stitch 1 and the next A. *String 2A; pass down through the next A and the left hole of the next D on the same side of the bangle (Fig. 3, blue thread). Pass up through the right hole of the D just entered and the next A (Fig. 3, red thread). Repeat from * thirty-nine times to connect the stitches on one side of the bangle. Turn the beadwork over and weave through beads to exit the right hole of 1 side D and the next A. Repeat from * to connect the stitches on the other side of the bangle. Secure the thread and trim.

3 g red-violet luster size 15° seed beads (A) 1 g silver-lined light blue size 15° seed beads (B) 40 aquamarine 4mm crystal cubes (C) 102 metallic blue iris 5mm flat, square 2-hole beads (D) Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors or thread burner Size 10 and 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 7½" (inner circumference)

Fig. 3: Connecting the stitches

2) FINISHING. Embellish the base with

Fig. 1: Stitching the base beads

Fig. 2: Adding the side and top beads

seed beads: Side 1: Using the size 12 needle, start 4' of new thread that exits from the left hole of a base D. String 1A and pass up through the right hole of the nearest side D (Fig. 4, blue thread). Working toward the right, pass through the next A, the 2A added to connect the stitches, the next A, and the left hole of the next side D. String 1A; pass through the right hole of the last base D exited and back through the left hole of the nearest base D to the right (Fig. 4, red thread). Repeat around for a total of 80A. Side 2: Turn the beadwork over and weave through beads to exit the left hole of 1 base D. Repeat Side 1. Secure the thread and trim. ✦

Fig. 4: Embellishing the base

SUE CHARETTE-HOOD, an award-winning jewelry artist living in Texas, has been designing and teaching since 1999. She works with many different media, but kumihimo and bead stitching are her loves. Sue is a member of the San Antonio Bead Society, Dallas Bead Society, Great Lakes Beadworkers Guild, and the Etsy Bead Weavers Team. She teaches at her local bead shop, the Texas and Shreveport bead retreats, and more. Visit www.crystalwonders .etsy.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Tila 2-hole beads, FireLine braided beading thread, Swarovski cubes, and all other materials: Originals Beads & Gems, (210) 490-7625, www.originalstexas.com.

BEADWORK

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garden windows bracelet GLORIANNE LJUBICH

Square-stitch a sturdy frame of two-hole beads, then embellish their centers with delicate, wispy flowers. A beautiful contrast to decorate your wrist!

ON THE COVER!

Artist’s Tips • Adding the picot edging to the horizontal strips helps to align the 2-hole beads. • When stitching the blossom, maintain tight tension. When making the leaves, use lighter tension.

TECHNIQUES ladder stitch picot square stitch fringe circular peyote stitch See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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Note: Use smoke thread when building the windows and clasp parts (Steps 1–3); use white when creating the flowers in Steps 4 and 5. 1) WINDOWS. Square-stitch 2-hole beads

the first F on the second horizontal strip as before (Fig. 2, blue thread). Continue adding vertical strips between the first and second horizontal strips, skipping 5F between vertical strips (Fig. 2, red thread).

together to form the bracelet frame: Horizontal strips: Use 6' of conditioned

thread to string 1F, 1E, 1G, and 1E; pass through the second hole of the F just added to form a picot, leaving an 8" tail. Tie the working and tail threads into a square knot. Pass up through the left hole of the F, through the E/G/E just added, and down through the right hole of the F (Fig. 1, green thread). *String 1F; pass down through the right hole of the previous F added and up through the left hole of the F just added (Fig. 1, blue thread). String 1E, 1G, and 1E; pass down through the right hole of the last F added. Pass up through the left hole of the F, through the E/G/E just added, and down through the right hole of the F (Fig. 1, red thread). Repeat from * twenty-nine times to form a strip with 31F. Don’t trim the threads; set aside. Repeat this section to form a second horizontal strip. Vertical strips: Use 3' of conditioned thread to repeat the horizontal strip, this time not adding any E or G and forming a strip 5F long. Don’t trim the threads; set aside. Repeat this section five times for a total of 6 strips. Assembly: Arrange 1 horizontal strip so the picots point up. Place 1 vertical strip under the horizontal strip. Use the working thread of the vertical strip to pass up through the left hole of the first F on the horizontal strip, through the nearest E/G/E, down through the right hole of the F, and through the last hole exited on the vertical strip (Fig. 2, green thread). Repeat the thread path to reinforce; secure the working thread and trim. Arrange the remaining horizontal strip underneath the vertical strip just placed so the picots point down. Place a needle on the vertical strip’s tail thread; connect the first F of the vertical strip to

2) CLASP BUTTON. Square-stitch a tab and add pearls for the button side of the clasp: Row 1: Start 4' of new conditioned thread that exits from the bottom hole of the final vertical strip placed. String 2E; lay the beads down along the edge of the strip and pass under the nearest thread loop along the edge. Pass through the last E strung. *String 1E: lay the bead down along the edge of the strip and pass under the nearest thread loop along the edge. Pass through the last E strung. Repeat from * eleven times for a total of 14E (Fig. 3, blue thread). Row 2: String 1E; pass through the last 1E of the previous row and through the 1E just added. *String 1E; pass through the adjacent E of the previous row and through the 1E just added in this row.

MATERIALS 2 g silver-lined opal hot pink size 15° seed beads (A) 2 g gold-lined transparent lime green size 15° seed beads (B) 2 g silver-lined mauve size 15° seed beads (C) 2 g dark gold-lined clear size 15° seed beads (D) 4 g silver-lined purple size 11° seed beads (E) 10 g transparent rainbow luster rose/gold 5mm flat 2-hole beads (F) 62 lime 3mm crystal bicones (G) 5 brass 5mm crystal pearl rounds (H) 2 brass 8mm crystal pearl rounds Smoke and white 6 lb braided beading thread Thread conditioner

TOOLS Scissors and/or thread burner Size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 7"

Fig. 1: Beginning the top horizontal strip

Fig. 2: Stitching vertical strips to the horizontal strip

Fig. 3: Adding Rows 1 and 2 of the clasp button

BEADWORK

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Fig. 6: Forming Rounds 1 and 2 of the blossom

Fig. 4: Adding the pearls for the clasp button

Repeat from * across the row (Fig. 3, red thread). Rows 3–8: Repeat Row 2 six times. Weave

through beads to exit from the fourth E of Row 4. Pearls: String one 8mm pearl and 1A; pass back through the pearl and through the fifth through tenth E of Row 4. String one 8mm pearl and 1A; pass back through the pearl and through the eleventh E of Row 4 (Fig. 4). Weave through beads to exit back through the eleventh E of Row 4. Repeat the thread path to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. 3) CLASP LOOP. Square-stitch a double

loop at the other end of the bracelet: Row 1: Repeat Step 2, Row 1, at the other end of the bracelet. Rows 2–6, top column: Work 5 rows with 3E in each row. Weave through beads to exit from the ninth E added in Row 1 (Fig. 5, green thread). Rows 2–6, center and bottom columns:

Repeat Rows 2–6, top column, twice to add 5-row columns between the ninth and seventh E of Row 1 and the third and first E of Row 1. Weave through beads to exit through Row 6 of the bottom column, toward the center column (Fig. 5, blue thread). Row 7: String 3E; pass through Row 6 of the center column. String 3E; pass through Row 6 of the top column (Fig. 5, red thread). 64

Fig. 7: Adding Rounds 3 and 4

Fig. 5: Stitching the clasp loop

Row 8: Use E to work square

stitch off of Row 7. Secure the thread and trim. 4) BLOSSOM. Use circular

peyote stitch and loop fringe to stitch a flower head: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 4' of new conditioned thread to string 1A, 1H, and 1A, leaving an 8" tail. Pass back through the H and pass through the first A added (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 7A; pass through the second A added in this step. String 7A; pass through the first A added in this step. Tie a square knot with the tail and working thread. Pass through the nearest A (Fig. 6, red thread). Round 3: String 1A, skip 1A of the previous round, and pass through the following A; repeat to add 8A. Exit through the first A added in this round (Fig. 7, blue thread). Round 4: String 5A, pass through the last A exited, and weave through beads to exit from the next A of Round 3; repeat to add a total of 8 petals. Exit from Round 1 (Fig. 7, red thread). Attach: Thread a needle onto the tail thread. Weave through beads to exit from the first 3A of the petal that’s to the upper left of the tail thread. Pass under the thread loop at the inside upper-left corner of the first window

Fig. 8: Attaching a blossom to a window

and pass back through the last 3A exited (Fig. 8, blue thread). Weave through beads to exit from the first 3A of a petal that’s 2 petals below the one just attached. In the same manner, connect this petal to the loop of thread between the second and third F on the first vertical strip (Fig. 8, red thread). Secure the tail thread and trim. Don’t trim the working thread. 5) STEM AND LEAVES. Add the stem and leaves to the blossom: Stem: Weave the working thread through beads to exit from Round 1, one bead away from the petal that was just attached. String 22B; pass under the thread loop in the lower-right corner of the first window, then pass back through the last 4B just added (Fig. 9, orange thread).

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Fig. 10: Connecting Leaf 3 to the horizontal strip and blossom

Fig. 9: Adding the stem and Leaf 1

Leaf 1: String 12B; pass under the thread

loop between the second and third F along the second vertical strip (Fig. 9, green thread). String 10B; pass through the 12B added at the beginning of this section (Fig. 9, blue thread). Pass under the thread loop between the second and third F as before and string 16B; pass back through the 10B added previously. Pass under the thread loop between the second and third F as before and pass through the 16B just added. Pass up through the nearest 2B on the stem (Fig. 9, red thread). Leaf 2: Repeat Leaf 1, forming the leaf lines with 10B, 12B, and 9B and connecting to the thread loop below the third and fourth F along the bottom horizontal strip. Pass up through the next 5B on the stem. Leaf 3: Repeat Leaf 1, forming the leaf lines with 17B, 20B, and 20B and connecting to the thread loop below the fifth F along the top horizontal strip. Pass back through 7B of the final leaf line; ladder-stitch this B to 1A on the nearest petal. Pass back through 5B on the leaf line; ladder-stitch this B to 1A on the next petal. Pass back through the rest of the leaf line and up through the next 2B on the stem (Fig. 10).

Leaf 4: Repeat Leaf 1, forming the leaf

lines with 15B, 15B, and 16B and connecting to the thread loop at the bottom-right corner of the window. Secure the thread and trim. 6) FINISHING. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for

GLORIANNE LJUBICH began beading nine years ago and quickly fell under its spell. Incorporating bead weaving, wireworking, and stringing, she designs and teaches in Seattle, Washington. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread, Swarovski crystals, Tila 2-hole beads, and all other materials: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.

the remaining windows, substituting C for A and D for B in the second and fourth spaces and turning these C/D flowers so that the blossom is connected to the lowerleft corner and the stem and leaves are connected to the upper-right corner. ✦ BEADWORK

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at the wheel JULIE WALKER

Try this unique cabochonbezeling technique that incorporates bugle beads. It’s not only quick to make; the results are beautiful.

Back of bezel

TECHNIQUES ladder stitch tubular peyote stitch fringe See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

1) BEZEL. Use bugle and seed beads to form the bezel, then embellish with bicones: Round 1: Use 7' of thread to string 4B, leaving a 5" tail; pass through the 4B again to form a circle, then pass through the first 2B and arrange the beads to form a square (Fig. 1, brown thread). *String 2D; pass through the third and second B and the first D just strung (Fig. 1, purple thread); repeat the thread path to reinforce. String 4B; pass through the second and first D just

Fig. 1: Beginning Bezel Round 1

added and the first 2B just added (Fig. 1, red thread). Repeat from * five times. String 2D; pass through the third and second B of the previous 4B and the first D just added. Join the beads at the end of the strip to form a ring, following the same ladder-stitched thread path; exit from an inner D (Fig. 2). Note: Bugles

BEADWORK

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MATERIALS 2 g bronze metallic size 14° seed beads (A) 2 g light blue metallic size 11° seed beads (B) 14 matte gray metallic 6mm bugle beads (C) 15 g denim iris 12mm twisted bugle beads (D) 52 Montana blue AB2X 3mm crystal bicones (E) 5 Montana blue AB2X 4mm crystal bicones (F) 5 golden shadow 8mm crystal bicones (G) 7 golden shadow 8mm top-drilled crystal bicones (H) 1 foil-back golden shadow 30mm chessboard crystal cabochon 1 gold-plated 9mm ball-and-socket clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 11 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 16¼" (with 35⁄8" pendant)

Fig. 2: Joining the ends of Bezel Round 1

often have sharp holes, so take care to pull the thread straight through the bugles, not against their holes, which may break the thread. Round 2: String 1D, pass through the last D exited, and through the nearest 2B and 1D of Round 1 to form a ladder stitch; repeat six times. Exit from the first D added in this round (Fig. 3, purple thread). Note: The thread will be moving in the opposite direction. String 1A and pass through the next D added in this round; repeat six times (Fig. 3, red thread). Round 3: String 3A, 1C, and 3A; pass through the last D exited, the nearest A of Round 2, and the next inner D. Repeat six times. Exit from a C added in this round (Fig. 4, purple thread). Note: The thread will be moving in the opposite direction. Round 4: String 3A and pass through the next C of Round 3; repeat six times. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit an outer D of Round 1 (Fig. 4, red thread).

70

Round 5: Repeat Round 2. Place the cabo-

chon in the beadwork, with the back touching Rounds 3 and 4. Rounds 6 and 7: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4, bezeling the cabochon tightly within the beadwork. Exit from 1C of Round 6. 2) EMBELLISHMENT. Decorate the bezel

with bicones: Round 1: String 1A, 1E, and 1A and pass

through the next C of Bezel Round 6; repeat six times. Weave through beads to exit from the nearest inner D of Bezel Round 1 (Fig. 5, brown thread). Round 2: String 1A, 1E, and 1A and pass through the next inner D of Bezel Round 1; repeat six times. Exit from the nearest outer D of Bezel Round 1 (Fig. 5, purple thread). Note: The thread will be moving in the opposite direction. Round 3: String 1A, 1E, and 1A and pass through the next outer D of Bezel Round 1; repeat six times (Fig. 5, red thread). Fringe: String 1A, 1D, 1A, 1E, 1A, 1F, 4A, 1H, and 3A; skip 3A just strung and pass back through the rest of the beads to

Fig. 3: Adding Bezel Round 2

form a fringe. Pass through the nearest 2B of Bezel Round 1 (Fig. 6, brown thread). String 1A, 1D, and 1A; pass down through the E/A/F previously strung. String 4A, 1H, and 3A; pass back through the first of the 4A just added, the previous F/A/E, the A/D/A just strung, and the nearest 2B and A (Fig. 6, purple thread). Weave through beads to exit down through E/A/F. String 4A, 1H, and 3A; pass back through the first of the 4A just added and the F (Fig. 6, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. 3) STRAPS. Start 3' of new thread that exits from the outer D of Round 1 opposite the fringe. String 1A, 1D, 1A, 1E, 1A, 1G, 1A, 1E, 1A, and 1D. String {2A, 1E, 2A, 1D, 1A, 1F, 1A, and 1D} twice. String {2A, 1E, 2A, 1D, 2A, 1E, 1A, 1G, 1A, 1E, 2A, and 1D} twice. String 2A, 1E, 1A, and one half of the clasp; pass back through the last A and E added. Continue to work back down the strand just formed by *stringing 2A; pass back through the next D. String 2A; pass back through E. String 1A; pass back through G. String 1A; pass back through E.

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Fig. 4: Stitching Bezel Rounds 3 and 4

String 2A; pass back through D. String 2A; pass back through E. Repeat from * once. **String 2A; pass back through D. String 2A, 1E, 1A, 1H, 1A, 1E, and 2A; pass back through D to form a kink in the strand. String 2A; pass back through E. Repeat from ** once. String 2A and weave through beads to exit the last D exited on the bezel. Begin the second strap by stringing 1A, 1D, 1A, 1E, and 1A; pass through the first G. Repeat the other side of the strap to match the first, using the other half of the clasp. Secure the thread and trim. ✦

Fig. 5: Embellishing the bezel

Artist’s Tips • Be sure to pull the thread in the bezel in a circular fashion, rather than against the beads, to maintain a tight tension and to avoid thread breakage.

JULIE WALKER is the owner of Bead Cage Express, www.beadcageexpress.artfire.com. After eight years of serving the beading community in Dayton, Ohio, she decided to take her skills to the next level by offering kits, classes, blogs, and tutorials. Julie is the proud mom to four beautiful young women and NeeNa to three. A new baby girl, Mila Jewel, is the latest addition for whom to make jewelry! RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski chessboard cabochons (article #2035), 8mm bicones, and top-drilled bicones: Dreamtime Creations, (866) 874-6748, www.dreamtimecreations.com. Miyuki seed and 12mm twisted bugle beads, FireLine braided beading thread, and clasp: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Swarovski 3mm and 4mm bicones: Bead Cage Express, www.beadcageexpress.artfire.com.

• Size 15°s can be used in place of the size 14°s. • Pull your thread snug prior to forming knots.

Fig. 6: Stitching the bezel fringe

BEADWORK

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industrial chic CALLIE MITCHELL

A cool metallic base of right-angle-woven gunmetal beads is given just the right amount of crystal sparkle in this striking and glamorous accessory.

TECHNIQUES right-angle weave netting flat peyote stitch See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

Artist’s Tips • When stitching the base-end embellishments, keep all the crystals oriented vertically and the seed beads oriented horizontally. The embellishments fit together perfectly when this orientation is maintained. • Keep firm, even tension when working the right-angle-weave base. Using microcrystalline wax on the beading thread is very helpful for maintaining tension. • When adding the embellishments, it’s helpful to tie a half-hitch knot around the bracelet base threads occasionally. This helps with tension and helps guard against chafing, which could break a thread.

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1) BASE. Use a comfortable length of waxed thread and B to work a strip of right-angle weave 7 units wide and 35 rows long (6"), or to the desired length minus ½" for the clasp. Secure the thread and trim. 2) EMBELLISHMENT. Add seed beads

and crystals to the base: Row 1, Stitch 1: Start 3' of new waxed

thread that exits from the top B of the first unit in the first row, toward the center of the beadwork. String 1A, 1D, and 1A; pass through the bottom B of the same base unit (Fig. 1, blue thread). String 1A, pass back through the D just added, string 1A, and pass through the top B of the same base unit. Pass down through the side B of the next unit in the same row (Fig. 1, red thread). Row 1, Stitch 2: String 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass down through the side B of the following unit in the same row (Fig. 2, blue thread). String 1A, pass through the B just added, string 1A, and pass down through the original B exited at the beginning of this stitch. Weave through beads to exit from the top base B of the next unit in the same row (Fig. 2, red thread).

Row 1, Stitches 3–6: *Repeat Stitch 1,

MATERIALS

using 1E instead of 1D, then repeat Stitch 2. Repeat from * to embellish 2 more base units. Row 1, Stitch 7: Repeat Stitch 1. Weave through beads to exit the side bead at the edge of the first unit in Base Row 2. Row 2: Begin the row by repeating Stitch 2. Following Fig. 3 for bicone color placement, work across the row, alternating Stitches 1 and 2. Rows 3–7: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, following Fig. 3 for color. On the final row, weave through beads to exit the top B of the second unit in Base Row 8. Row 8: Repeat Stitches 1 and 2 twice, then repeat Stitch 1, following Fig. 3 for color. Weave through beads to exit the top B of the third unit in Base Row 9. Row 9: Repeat Stitches 1 and 2, then repeat Stitch 1, following Fig. 3 for color. Weave through beads to exit the top B of the fourth unit in Base Row 10. Row 10: Repeat Stitch 1, using G instead of D. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this step to embellish the same side of the bracelet on the opposite end of the base.

3 g palladium-plated size 15° Japanese seed beads (A) 20 g gunmetal size 8° Japanese seed beads (B) 9 jet hematite 3mm crystal bicones (C) 14 jet hematite 4mm crystal bicones (D) 20 light gray opal 4mm crystal bicones (E) 16 clear comet argent light 2X 4mm crystal bicones (F) 14 jet hematite 2X 4mm crystal bicones (G) Silver size D nylon or smoke 6 lb braided beading thread Microcrystalline wax

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 6½"

Fig. 1: Adding the first embellishment stitch to Row 1

Fig. 2: Forming Row 1, Stitch 2

Fig. 3: Placing the embellishments

BEADWORK

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Fig. 4: Embellishing the first tube end

3) CLASP BAR. Peyote-stitch the bar side of the toggle clasp and attach it to the base: Strip: Use 3' of waxed thread to peyotestitch a strip 12B wide and 8 rows long. Zip: Fold the strip so the beads of the first and last rows interlock. Weave these beads together to form a seamless tube. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Exit from 1B at one end of the tube. Tube ends: String 1A, 1F, and 1A; pass down through the B on the opposite side of the same tube end and up through the next B (Fig. 4, blue thread). String 1A; pass back through the F just added. String 1A; pass down through the remaining B on the opposite side of the tube end. Weave through beads to exit the other end of the tube (Fig. 4, red thread). Repeat from the beginning of this section to embellish the other tube end. Connect: Weave through beads to exit 6B from the end of the tube. String 1B; pass through the next B of the last row exited. Repeat the thread path to reinforce, exiting from the B just added (Fig. 5, blue thread). String 1B and pass through the top B of the fourth unit at one end of the bracelet base; then string 1B and pass through the B added in this section to form a right-angle-weave unit (Fig. 5, red thread). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. 4) CLASP LOOP. Right-angle-weave and

embellish the loop side of the toggle clasp: Square: Use 5' of waxed thread and B to

right-angle-weave 2 units, leaving a 1' tail. Exit from a side bead of the second unit. Right-angle-weave 4 units to form an L shape. Exit from the bottom bead of the fourth unit just formed and right-angle-weave 1 more unit to form a U shape (Fig. 6). 74

Fig. 5: Connecting the toggle bar

Embellish: Repeat Step 1, Row 1, Stitch 2

on each of the units made in this step, except use C instead of B (Fig. 7). Exit from the bottom B of the first unit formed in the square. Attach: String 1B and pass through the top B of the second unit at the open end of the bracelet base; then string 1B and pass through the last B exited in the square to form a right-angle-weave unit. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Repeat the embellishment as above on this new unit. Weave through beads to exit from the bottom B of the final unit formed in the square. Repeat this section to attach to the top B of the sixth unit at the end of the bracelet base (Fig. 8), and embellish as before. Secure the thread and trim. ✦

Fig. 6: Right-angle-weaving the square for the clasp loop

Fig. 7: Embellishing the loop half of the clasp

CALLIE MITCHELL has been beading for five years and particularly enjoys experimenting with and learning new beading techniques. She beads at her home studio when not traveling with her husband, who is remarkably tolerant of her passions for beads and yarn. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Palladium beads: Beadies Beadwork, (440) 263-5283, www.beadiesbeadwork.com. Gunmetal beads, Swarovski bicones, and FireLine braided and Nymo nylon beading threads: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.

Fig. 8: Attaching the loop to the base

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shimmering fans CSILLA CSIRMAZ

A handful of herringbone-stitched fans grace a netted base to form this fluttery, deco-style earring design.

Artist’s Tips • For larger earrings, simply increase the size of the net and add more fans. • For a different look, stitch other shapes, such as circles and ellipses, to add to the netted portion of the earring. • Adding more crystals to the edges of the fans will add more sparkle. • You may substitute 3mm pearls for the bicones in this design.

TECHNIQUES herringbone stitch netting See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

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1) FANS. Herringbone-stitch fan-shaped

components: Rows 1 and 2: Use 4' of thread to string

3B; pass through the beads again and tie a knot to form a tight circle, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through 1B to clear the knot (Fig. 1, green thread). Row 3: String 2B; pass down through the next B in the starting circle to form a herringbone stitch. Step up at the end of this and subsequent rows by looping around threads between beads in the previous 2 rows and exiting up through the last bead added to the current row (Fig. 1, blue thread). Row 4: String 2B; pass down through the last B exited and up through the first B of Row 3. String 2B; pass down through the last B exited (Fig. 1, red thread). Row 5: String 2B; pass down through the second-to-last B of Row 4. String 1A; pass up through the next B of Row 4. String 2B; pass down through the first B of Row 4 (Fig. 2). Row 6: String 2B; pass down through the second-to-last B of Row 5. String 1A;

Fig. 1: Forming Rows 1–4 of the fan

Fig. 4: Adding Fan Rows 9–11

pass up through the next B of Row 5. String 2B; pass down through the first B of Row 5 (Fig. 3, green thread). Row 7: String 2B; pass down through the second-to-last B of Row 6. String 2A; pass up through the next B of Row 6. String 2B; pass down through the first B of Row 6 (Fig. 3, blue thread). Row 8: String 2B; pass down through the second-to-last B of Row 7 and through the next A. String 2B; pass through the next A of Row 7 and up through the next B of Row 7. String 2B; pass down through the first B of Row 7 (Fig. 3, red thread). Row 9: String 2B; pass down through the second-to-last B of the previous row and up through the next B. String 2B; pass down through the following B of the previous row and up through the next. String 2B; pass down through the first B of the previous row (Fig. 4, green thread). Row 10: Repeat Row 9 (Fig. 4, blue thread).

Fig. 2: Adding Fan Row 5

Fig. 3: Stitching Fan Rows 6–8

MATERIALS 2 g silver galvanized size 15° seed beads (A) 6 g silver galvanized size 11° cylinder beads (B) 2 g silver galvanized size 11° seed beads (C) 18 padparadscha 3mm crystal bicones (D) 2 sterling silver ¾" ear wires Smoke 4 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 25⁄8"

Row 11: *String 2B; pass down through

the next B of Row 10. String 1A; pass up through the next B of Row 10. Repeat from * once. String 2B; pass down through the first B of Row 10 (Fig. 4, red thread). Row 12: *String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 11. String 2A; pass up through the next B of Row 11. Repeat from * once. String 2B; pass down through the first B of Row 11 (Fig. 5, purple thread). Row 13: String 1A; pass down through the second-to-last B of Row 12 and up through the next A. String 2B; pass down through the next A of Row 12 and up through the next B. String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 12 and up through the next A. String 2B; pass down through the next A of Row 12 and up through the next B. String 1A; pass down through the first B of Row 12, step up, pass back through the last A added, and through the next 2B of this row (Fig. 5, orange thread). Row 14: String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 13 and up through the following 2B. Pass down and then up through the following 3B of Row 13. String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 13, through the next B/A/B of Row 12, step up, and weave through beads to exit up through the last B added in this row (Fig. 5, brown thread).

Fig. 5: Finishing the fan

BEADWORK

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Fig. 6: Stitching Rows 1–5 of the base and forming a loop

Fig. 7: Placing the fans on the base

Weave through beads to exit from the end A of Row 13, toward the center of the work (Fig. 5, blue thread). Finish: String 1A; pass up through the next B of Row 15 and the following A of Row 16. String 1B; pass through the D. String 1B; pass through the end A of Row 16 and the end B of Row 15. String 1A; pass through the end A of Row 13 (Fig. 5, red thread). Secure the working thread and trim; don’t trim the tail. Repeat this entire step seventeen times for a total of 18 fans. 2) BASE. Net a base onto which to attach

Row 15: String 2B; pass down through the

next B of Row 14 and up through the next B of Row 13. String 2B; pass down through the next B of Row 13 and up through the next B of Row 14. String 2B; pass down through the following B of Row 14 (Fig. 5, green thread). Row 16: String 1A; pass down through the second-to-last B of Row 15 and up through the following B. String 1D; pass down through the next B of Row 15 and up through the following B. String 1A; pass down through the next B of Row 15.

78

the fans. Row 1: Use 3' of thread to string the B in Row 1 of 1 fan, 23C, and the B in Row 1 of another fan, leaving an 18" tail. Pass back through the 23C. Tie a knot and pass back through the last B exited (Fig. 6, purple thread). Row 2: String 5C, skip the next 5C of the previous row, and pass through the next C; repeat three times. Pass down through the B of the second fan, loop the thread, and pass back through the B and last 3C added in this row (Fig. 6, orange thread). Row 3: String 5C, skip the next 5C, and pass through the next C; repeat twice. Weave through beads to exit back through the last 3C added in this row (Fig. 6, brown thread). Row 4: String 5C, skip the next 5C, and pass through the next C; repeat once.

Weave through beads to exit back through the last 3C added in this row (Fig. 6, green thread). Row 5: String 5C, skip the next 5C, and pass through the next C. Weave through beads to exit back through the last 3C added in this row (Fig. 6, blue thread). Loop: String 7A; pass through the last C exited to form a loop (Fig. 6, red thread). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the working thread and trim. Rows 6–9: Use the tail thread to repeat Rows 2–5 to form the other half of the base. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Repeat this entire step for a second base. 3) ASSEMBLY. Using each fan’s tail thread, attach 7 fans to 1 of the bases at the points shown in purple in Fig. 7. Secure the threads and trim. Connect 1 ear wire to the loop. Repeat this step to finish the second earring. ✦

CSILLA CSIRMAZ, a Hungarian living in London, United Kingdom, has been making beaded jewelry for six years. Her favorite materials are Japanese beads and Swarovski crystals, but her biggest dream is to learn lampworking so she can make her own beads. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski bicones, Delica cylinder beads, FireLine braided beading thread, and all other materials: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

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A whole lotta Luv. “I Luv Luv Luv my Rio Grande catalog! Ahhhh, heaven in paper!“ —Shannon Stallard Jewelry Design & Artistry

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SPOTLIGHT ON SEED BEADS

simply seeds

{ PEYOTE STAR EARRINGS }

Barbara Richard

Work up a few quick rounds of circular peyote stitch to create the versatile star-shaped components spotlighted in these charming dangles.

TECHNIQUES circular peyote stitch wireworking See p. 94 for helpful technique information.

Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1–3

Fig. 2: Completing the large star

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 4 for project-level information.

MATERIALS 1 g dark bronze size 11° Japanese seed beads (A) 1 g gold size 11° Japanese seed beads (B) 2 vermeil 2×3mm cornerless rectangles 4 gold-filled 3.5mm jump rings 2 gold-filled 22-gauge 1½" head pins 1 pair of gold-filled ¾" ear wires Brown nylon beading thread Beading wax

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers Round-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZE: 2¼"

80

1) LARGE STAR. Use circular peyote stitch

Round 5: Work 1 stitch with 2B and

to create a five-pointed star: Round 1: Use 18" of waxed thread to string 5A, leaving a 3" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle. Pass through the first bead strung. Round 2: String 1A and pass through the next A of Round 1; repeat four times for a total of 5A. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round (Fig. 1, blue thread). Round 3: Work 5 stitches with 2A in each stitch (Fig. 1, red thread). Round 4: Work 10 stitches with 1B in each stitch, splitting the pairs added in Round 3 (Fig. 2, green thread).

1 stitch with 1A; repeat four times for a total of 10B and 5A (Fig. 2, blue thread). Round 6: String 1B, pass through the next B of Round 5, and weave through beads to exit between the next 2B pair; repeat four times for a total of 5B (Fig. 2, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. 2) SMALL STAR. Use circular peyote stitch to form a smaller version of the large star: Rounds 1–3: Using 18" of waxed thread, repeat Step 1, Rounds 1–3. Round 4: String 1B and pass through the next A of Round 3, A of Round 2, and A of Round 3; repeat four times for a total of 5B. Secure the thread and trim (Fig. 3).

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Option Create a necklace or bracelet with stones using the stars as spacers.

Fig. 3: Stitching the small star

3) ASSEMBLY. Attach 1 jump ring to the B at the tip of 1 point of the large star. Use 1 jump ring to connect the A opposite the previous jump ring on the large star to any B of Round 4 on the small star. Note: If you have difficulty inserting the jump ring through the beads, pass a larger needle through the bead to compress the thread inside it. Use 1 head pin to string 1 rectangle; form a wrapped loop that attaches to the A directly below the previous jump ring. Attach 1 ear wire to the top jump ring (Fig. 4).

4) Repeat Steps 1–3 for a second earring. ✦ BARBARA RICHARD, a former Latin teacher, has been beading for about eight years. In addition to loving seed beads, she enjoys wirework, metalwork, macramé, and lampwork. The president of the Connecticut River Artisans Cooperative in Chester, Connecticut, she teaches in local shops and privately. Barbara sells her jewelry in retail stores around the state. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Rectangles: Singaraja Imports, (800) 865-8856, www.singarajaimports.com. Japanese seed beads, SoNo beading thread, and all other materials: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

Option

Fig. 4: Assembling the earring

Brighten up your design by pairing silver-lined blue and red seed beads with metallic white Czech seed beads and silver findings.

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